Step back

With twice-weekly direct flights from Dubai to AlUla, there really has never been a better time to visit this incredible destination. Emerging from our three-hour flight, we feel as though we’ve stepped back in time, thanks to AlUla’s alluring preservation of its ancient roots. The drive from the airport takes us through quiet, dusty roads and winding valleys, surrounded by unique rock formations, which have naturally weathered to reveal artistic patterns we can’t take our eyes off.

Our first stop is Habitas AlUla, a sustainable villa-only resort with three room categories, each offering cosy cabinstyle accommodation with an outdoor terrace and rustic wooden furniture. Like a scene from a Wild West movie, we’re surrounded by dusty mountains, sand and an overwhelming sense that ‘we’re not in Dubai anymore’. The resort is built in a large upward-sloping part of Ashar Valley, but guests can make use of golf carts or electric bikes to get around. At the top is Tama, the hotel’s all-day dining restaurant and its outdoor pool. The chilly weather puts us off taking a dip but the undeniable beauty of the infinity pool against the mountain backdrop has us reaching for our phone to snap pictures. Tama’s expansive menu features a fusion of European and Middle Eastern dishes, all prepared and presented to an impeccable standard. On a chilly AlUla evening the slow-cooked lamb shank was a heart-warming treat, while in the morning we for-go the selection of eggs for a deliciously indulgent French toast coated in fresh berries, nuts and caramel sauce.

Town to really immerse themselves into the history and heritage of this fascinating location.

Another must-see spot in AlUla is Hegra – Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. Home to 111 monumental tombs, Hegra is sure to take your breath away. We took the sunrise tour which begins at 6am. We hop in a ‘vintage’ Land Rover (the cars are actually brand new but Land Rover custom-built the vintage-looking cars just for Hegra), and drive to Tomb of Lihyan, Son of Kuza – a 72-foot-tall tomb that has become the symbol of AlUla. In our uninitiated haste, we presumed that this was the extent of what there is to see, but over the 90-minutes that followed, our eyes were opened to the incredible display of tombs around the area, as we listened intently to our guide sharing insights into the rich heritage of Hegra. What we loved most about this experience is the fact that their excavations are ongoing, meaning that the archaeological team are discovering new pieces of history all the time. Rather than absorbing information passed down from decades ago, we’re told about new discoveries learned just months ago.

Back at Habitas, our time is filled with moving between the collection of cultural pop-ups, including the famed in-ground trampolines (Manal AlDowayan’s installation called Now You See Me, Now You Don’t), where we work up a sweat before stretching out in the wellness centre. The Thuraya Spa provides welcome relief to our tight knots and sends us into a soft slumber of deep relaxation.

We’re staying in an Alcove Villa, which has a private wooden terrace offering a close-up view of the sandstone canyons. Inside, an industrial yet ultra-comfortable king-size bed takes centre stage, facing the floor-to-ceiling windows for maximum views. The bathroom continues the rustic theme, with wooden flooring and a powerful shower both inside and outdoors, and more huge windows to give the impression of being closer to nature.

While we could quite easily stay in the resort throughout our stay, we’re here to explore the city, starting with Old Town. The first thing that strikes us as we being to stroll around the area, is just how bright and captivating the stars are. Even our outdated iPhone 12 manages to capture the night’s sky in incredible detail. After craning our neck from walking with our face to the solar system, we return to earth and take in the beauty down here, too.

Old Town has been meticulously preserved since it was abandoned in the 1970s. Its labyrinth of tightly packed streets and ancient mud houses give an accurate impression of how residents lived here in the 12th century. Back then, AlUla Old Town became an essential settlement along the pilgrimage route from Damascus to Makkah, and the market traders once used for exchanging goods, has been revitalised into an authentic evening market housed by local sellers. Vistors can book a guided tour around Old

Despite filling our itinerary with the many attractions AlUla has to offer, we’ve barely scratched the surface. We’re already planning our return, when we will explore The Adventure Hub, Maraya and Elephant Rock. experiencealula.com