EAT

SONARA CAMP

A desert safari but with gourmet cuisine. Why this is the best desert experience we’ve ever been to

ubai desert experiences are

Dnormally reserved as something to fill the time while you have visitors over. They usually involve a bit of dune bashing, followed by basic henna art and a belly dancing performance while you fight your way to the buffet table.

Sonara Camp offers none of these things, but in our opinion, this ultimately makes it the best Dubai desert experience.

Upon arrival at the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, we park up and switch over to a 4×4, where our driver takes us softly over the dunes toward the campsite.

The camp is stunning, especially as we arrive just before sunset, with Instagrammable opportunities everywhere you look. The upper level has a large round bar, where people can order drinks and shisha, as well individual areas for groups or intimate parties to sit on bean bags and sofas to relax on before dinner.

Activity stations are set up around the camp, in case you wish to get involved. There’s everything from volleyball and archery to sand boarding, an interactive falcon show, and camel riding at your own leisure. Otherwise, you can grab a hammock and enjoy the stunning sunset beyond the dunes.

Dinner takes place on a lower level, under a marquee of fairy lights, as Mykonos-style beats reverberate around the desert.

An impressive fire show kicks off a little later, with an exciting finale that we’ll keep as a surprise.

Onto the food. Well, the meal is more like something you’d find in a five-star hotel than a desert camp. With proper plates and cutlery and not a plastic cup in sight, we sit down and are treated to three incredible courses from the new-season sharing menu.

Starters arrive in many creative forms. For example the sea bream Tahitian ceviche comes in a tiny crispy cone topped with an avocado puree and offers two juicy mouthfuls with perfectly blended flavours.

We can’t fault the pulled lamb shoulder with ras el hanout, which Chef tells us he created while at home during lockdown. We embark on a DIY process reminiscent of duck pancakes, only this version uses slow-cooked pulled lamb that instantly melts in the mouth.

Black Angus picanha arrives sizzling on the grill, and is cooked beautifully along with a refreshing side dish of rocket chimichurri.

Thankfully, the dessert is lovely and light, with a fresh fruit salad, and indulgent bitesized pie with chocolate ganache topping.

While Sonara Camp is by no means the cheapest desert camp out there, it’s the most memorable. If you’re a regular bruncher, consider swapping out a couple of them for a night under the stars with good friends, great food and a brilliant overall experience. a Sonara Camp, Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, Dinner and Sunset experience from Dhs860 adults or Dhs380 children. nara.ae/sonara

RATING

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AMAZONICO LAUNCHES NEW BRUNCH

It’s carnival time at Amazonico, the uber-hip restaurant in DIFC, which launches its Tropicália Friday brunch from February 12. You’ll find a tropical sushi station, unlimited hot and cold appetisers, a choice of mains, caipirinhas and more. At Dhs650 with house drinks, it’s one of the pricier options in town. Is it worth the price tag? Check out our review on WhatsOn.ae. Gate Village, Pavillion DIFC, Fri 1pm to 4pm, Dhs450 with soft drinks, Dhs650 with house drinks, Dhs750 with champagne. Tel: (0)4 5713999. @amazonicodubai

GOLDFISH SUSHI & YAKITORI, DUBAI

Chef Akmal Anuar is back at the pans…

ans of 3Fils in Jumeirah

FFishing Harbour have been waiting to see where chef Akmal Anuar popped up next. Not too far away, as it turns out. The modern Asian master has stepped up to the pass at Goldfish Sushi & Yakitori, a sleek new eatery in the Galeria Mall, Al Safa.

And it seems like half of Dubai was awaiting his next move. Within a week of opening, diners are jockeying for a table within the industrial-chic space.

Goldfish’s Japanese menu doesn’t give tables, instead entrusting the kitchen to much away, with the handful of apply the right amount of seasoning. appetisers, sushi, yakitori and Akmal does just that to a pair of carbs referenced by just one chutoro nigiri (Dhs70), with a or two words. Fortunately, delicate swipe of soy across the attentive waitstaff are the rose-pink tuna. happy to talk us through From the yakitori grill, the combinations. we’re steered towards the

To start, we order a tsukune (Dhs20), a plump, sashimi dish simply labelled smoky chicken meatball ‘salmon – orange’ (Dhs55). Akmal Anuar that we swipe through a The thin slices of impeccably soupy onsen egg. For a final fresh fish are dressed in a light savoury course, we order spicy citrus-soy, garnished with orange wedges, noodles with shrimp (Dhs40), which torn shiso leaves, shichimi pepper, and deliver the umami buzz of Indomie, with crunchy curls of fried salmon skin. none of the MSG hangover.

In proper Japanese fashion, Goldfish For those who follow Akmal on has eschewed bottles of soy sauce on the Instagram, you’ll have seen him perfecting

C O N S U ME

EAT // REVIEW

his chocolate-peanut tart during lockdown. That quest for perfection is evident here, with a rich chocolatey base and salty-sweet filling offset by a quenelle of choc-orange ice cream.

Gauging by the quality of this meal, the tart isn’t the only thing Akmal was perfecting… And if that’s the only silver lining to the madness of 2020, we’ll take it. a Galeria Mall, 403 Al Wasl Rd, Al Safa, daily noon to midnight. Tel: (04) 8864966. @goldfishdubai

RATING

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LOLA TABERNA

A real slice of relaxed Spanish taberna life in Dubai

ola amigos. Don’t be

Hintimidated by our fluent Spanish, we just wanted to whet your appetite for news of a very exciting Spanish restaurant that’s opened in Tecom (Barsha Heights).

Lola Taberna (named after the country’s most famous Flamenco dancer), is a sweet neighbourhood eatery that opened at the tail-end of last year, having replaced Barbary in the Tryp by Wyndham. The main dining area is accented with wooden shutters while a large painting of Lola adorns one wall as proper ham hunks hang on the other. It’s a first for the city to be able to display this in prime view, and certainly adds to the authenticity.

The focus here is on serving simple, genuine tapas that should satisfy any and all cravings for crispy burnt rice, sangria, and ham that tastes like acorns.

Large green olives, a plate of glistening slivers of Montaraz jamon (Dhs89), four perfectly plump Iberico croquettes (Dhs57), and a basket of bread were delicious nibbles with a cold glass of vermouth. The tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette, Dhs49) was the epitome of comfort food par excellence, transforming a couple of humble ingredients (potatoes, eggs, olive oil) into a dish fit for Lola herself. Part warm and gooey, part fluffy and crisp – this would make a perfect breakfast on its own, but a worthy tapas addition, too.

Hankering for more, we ordered a paella. There are several versions to choose from (chicken, seafood, shellfree, and negra). We opted for the negra (Dhs169), a black paella with baby squid and licks of aioli. It arrived in a large skillet and required some elbow grease to scrape the sticky rice from the bottom of the pan, which is always tell-tale sign of a good paella.

Finally, a plate of churros was brought out with a cup full of rich chocolate sauce. Taste-wise it’s all there: golden, crispy, chewy things of deliciousness, but they don’t look like the real deal to us. We’re used to the ones that are piped through a star-shaped funnel tip, while these seem more like a plumper cousin. But we don’t want to obsess about this too much, because the food really is as good as it gets for tapas. Go now, then sit back with another chilled vermouth, and buen provecho. a Tryp by Wyndham, Barsha Height, Sun to Thur 5pm to 1am, Fri and Sat 1pm to 2am. Tel: (0)4 2476688. @lolataberna

RATING

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Chinese New Year at Shanghai ME

Dragon dance, drummers and a curated menu

On Thursday 11 February, Shanghai Me welcomes the Year of the Ox with live entertainment (Covid restrictions permitting), blessings and tradition. Expect a curated menu of special dishes, including dim sum, noodles, seafood, and the now famous Shanghai Me Fortune Cookie as a dragon dance adds dramatic flair. a Podium Level, Gate Village 11, DIFC, Thur Feb 11, noon to 11pm. Tel: (0) 4 5640505. @shangaimedxb

CZNBURAK

Is CZNBurak’s popularity just a flash in the pan?

e’s been known to stop traffic

Hwhen he walks around Downtown Dubai, and to create the kind of weak-atthe-knees hysteria usually reserved for rock stars. And yet, if you’d asked us who CZNBurak was two months ago, we would have said: Not a clue.

We may well have been in the minority… At the time we went to print, Burak Özdemir, who goes by the moniker CZNBurak, had 20 million followers on Instagram and 33 million on TikTok. He’s known for his slightly madcap cooking videos in which he smiles directly down the camera lens while chopping 30 onions and whipping up massive Turkish feasts.

It makes sense that CZNBurak chose Dubai for his first foray outside Turkey. We can’t think of anywhere else that would reward the audacity of building a 600-seat restaurant in the heart of Downtown, and installing the largest oven in the GCC. It’s a bold move that, initially at least, appears to be paying off.

In the opening week over Christmas, CZNBurak instantly became the place to dine in Dubai. HH Sheikh Hamdan and Cristiano Ronaldo were snapped posing with the chef, and its no-bookings policy saw queues snake around the block, as people clambered to witness CZNBurak’s particular brand of culinary theatre.

For this is no simple a la carte experience – dining here is about appearances as much as taste, with dishes designed for maximum Instagram impact. Meats are dipped into flaming vats of oil, fiery mounds of salt are tossed into the air, and clay urns are ceremoniously cracked open to reveal steaming casseroles.

The Turkish menu rewards larger groups, with the most interesting-sounding dishes designed for four or more people. We settle on a couple of cold mezze to start, including eggplant shakshuka (Dhs37) and baba ghannouge (Dhs35), which get tastier the longer they sit out of the fridge. The fried icli kofte (Dhs13 per piece) are one of the night’s best morsels, the Turkish kibbeh flavoured with red pepper paste and toasted walnuts. The mixed grill for one (Dhs104) is a familiar, satisfying assembly of minced meat kebab, shish tawouk and cubed beef that’s easily shared between two. We also try lamb shanks on a bed of spiced rice (Dhs245), and while the meat is perfectly fork-tender, the flavour is fairly subdued.

Desserts are stock-standard renditions of kunafa (Dhs55) and baklawa (Dhs65) – the standout for us being the stretchy dondurma-style ice cream that accompanies the baklava.

CZNBurak is unlicensed, so the strongest thing you’re going to drink is the thick Turkish coffee. There is shisha, however, and some cracking views of the Burj Khalifa from the terrace. And, if entertainment and celeb cred are high on your dining agenda, you’re in the right place. Whether that will be enough in the fickle Dubai dining world remains to be seen. a Boulevard Point, Downtown Dubai, open daily 12pm to 3am. Tel: (0)58 108 1800. @cznburakdubai

Burak Özdemir

RATING

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What’s cooking?

Dubai’s aspiring chefs can brush up on their culinary skills at the Chef’s Palette cooking studio

In a city obsessed with food, Chef’s Palette cooking studio in Fairmont The Palm puts a unique spin on the dining experience, offering a collection of immersive, interactive sessions. The menu of master classes ranges from an introduction to basic culinary techniques, through to seasonal menus and dinner party entertaining, with chefs from Fairmont The Palm’s kitchen team providing expert hands-on support and access to top-of-the-line equipment and appliances.

There’s a choice of cooking classes on offer. The twohour Premium Cooking Class (Dhs395 per person) includes hands-on cooking fun with a chef, branded apron, water and soft drinks, take-home recipe card and a certificate of attendance. Meanwhile, the four-hour Master Class (Dhs555 per person) focuses on specialist produce such as foie gras, Wagyu beef, forested mushrooms, and chocolate, plus all of the other benefits including your branded apron.

For the little chefs, there are dedicated ‘no adults allowed’ sessions (Dhs250 per class) at the studio. They’ll learn about nutrition, international cuisine, and will also be allowed to have some messy fun in the kitchen with their pals. And yes, kids, you get to eat your masterpiece – and more importantly, lick the spoon. a Fairmont The Palm, Dubai, Tel:(0)4 4573457 or email palm.dining@fairmont.com

MORE COOKING CLASSES TO TRY…

01 TOP CHEF

A step-up from the beginner’s classes, the Culinary Art class promises a gourmet menu and culinary flair. You’ll be handed the lofty goals of pumping out a three-course menu – full of concepts we can’t pronounce – in twoand-a-half-hours. On our trip, we made mushroom veloute with truffle essence, foie gras and croutons. For mains, a ricotta tortellini, and an apple tatin for dessert. Everything here is made by hand. a Villa 196, Beach Road, Dubai, Dhs475, Tel: (04) 3855781. topchefdubai.com

02 SCAFA

The School of Culinary and Finishing Arts or SCAFA as its known, takes a more serious approach to cooking classes, with a school dedicated to the skill. It has both professional and amateur programmes, so there’s no reason to feel intimidated by the idea of a ‘school’. Amateur programmes include fundamentals of cuisine, mini master chef, world cuisine and cake decorating – so you’re bound to find something to try your hand at. a Unit 16, Promenade Level, Cluster I, Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Near Almas Tower, Dubai. Tel: (0)4 379 4044. facebook.com/scafa.dubai

03 CULINARY BOUTIQUE

Predominantly a quaint little cafe in the heart of Jumeira, Culinary Boutique offers a range of cake creations and light bites. But it also has over 100 culinary courses for you to try. They’re masters of cuisines from across the world, from Japan, Thailand, Italy or the Middle East. a Villa 56, Jumeira 1, Dubai. Tel: (0)4 345 0023. culinaryboutique.com

04 MAMALU KITCHEN

Join bubbly chef Lama Jammal Houssami for hands-on cooking classes in a beautifully-designed dedicated kitchen space. Book it for parties, couple workshops, or for nannies and housekeepers, and learn how to make simple but healthy and delicious meals for your family. q instagram.com/ mamalukitchen

BRUNCH O F T H E MONTH

MEET THE CHEF

STEVEN NGUYEN

Head chef at Indochine

A family friend suggested that I

should be a chef. It was 2008, I had just graduated and my first sales job was making me miserable. I had always cooked at home for family and was fascinated with cooking. After our conversation, I immediately enrolled in culinary school.

I definitely felt pressure when I

joined Indochine Dubai. The brand has such a legacy. But I tried not to think about its past, as we were very much focused on building something new that could stand on its own.

Indochine is such a fun arena

where we get to create. There are endless possibilities of where we can take Vietnamese food to.

There are some exciting

homegrown initiatives here. Dubai should really focus on these, because they will shape the city’s identity.

The advice a chef gave to me was

a quote from DaVinci: ‘simplicity is the ultimate sophistication’. As I get older, I just want to strip away the frills and just get down to what makes food deeply delicious.

I’ve been obsessing over duck.

I want to know how to get crispy skin and perfectly cooked meat. I’ve used maltose; I’ve hang dried it for 14 days; and I’ve tried blowing air into it to separate the skin. So before I die, I just want that perfect piece of Peking duck. a Gate Precinct Building 3, DIFC, daily noon to 10pm (closed for lunch Fri and Sat). Tel: (0) 4289333. @indochinedxb

LookUp Rooftop Bar

Intimate, relaxed vibes at the FridayFeels brunch

Most poolside brunches are rowdy affairs, with larger than life characters, loud beats, and maybe even the odd roaming saxophonist. If you fancy something a little more subdued for your Friday pool and brunch session, try the new FridayFeels brunch at LookUp Rooftop Bar in City Walk.

The sun-dappled terrace and pool at La Ville Hotel & Suites is small but intimate. It also has a surprisingly incredible view of the Burj Khalifa, making us feel like we’re in on a well-kept secret. Following some refreshing rum ice lollies on arrival, starters comprise salmon sushi, tuna ribbons and Vietnamese lobster spring rolls, but we love the softly whipped goats cheese mousse, served with moreish parmesan straws. Mains are hit and miss, with some more adventurous pairings falling short. Broccoli and preserved lemon on a pizza as a combo didn’t work for us, though we thoroughly enjoyed the pepperoni pizzetta. The beef and short rib donuts are another head-scratcher. The beef filling is tender and the truffle sauce delightful, but an extra donut seems a bit over the top. We hit that sweet spot with cute bite-sized chocolate fondants and lemon meringues, which are equal parts crunchy and gooey. With a chilled music setting the tone and an extensive drinks menu on hand, it’s a Friday wellspent in our book. And that sunset really is beautiful. a LookUp Rooftop Bar, La Ville Hotel & Suites, City Walk, Fri 2pm to 6pm, Dhs350 including pool access, food and house drinks. Tel: (0)4 403 3111. @lavilledubai

ABOUT CAFÉ DÉLICES

Fresh ingredients, smoking hot grills, coffee lovers culture, variety of hubble bubble, delectable flavours and fantastic views in one of the best cafes in Business Bay. Featuring an indoor and outdoor seating with free WiFi, it is perfect for a hangout with friends, spending quality time for a family day out or even if you feel like switching up your work space away from the office, Café Delices is your go-to hot spot in town. Discover a range of lip-smacking Bahraini and Turkish flavours paired with cold creative beverages or a choice of your favourite caffeine as you soak in the fantastic panoramic views of the Dubai Water Canal. Al Abraj Street, Business Bay P.O Box 32300, Dubai UAE Tel: +971 4 247 3333 Email: info@gulfcourthotelbusinessbay.com

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