17 minute read

EAT

REVIEW: SUMMERSALT BY KAYTO

Refined beachfront dining with stunning Burj Al Arab views

When Kayto opened as a pop-up at Jumeirah Al Naseem in 2019, it proved so popular that it became a permanent fixture. Now, three years later, the brand has added a seaside iteration to the beachfront, giving culinary prowess to the hotel’s upscale Summersalt beach club.

Alongside Summersalt, where hotel guests recline on navy loungers dotted alongside the sugary sand, there’s a breezy alfresco restaurant. This is luxurious beachfront dining done right: a whitewashed deck is filled with woven chairs topped with plush cushions, the turquoise ocean views can be enjoyed from every seat in the restaurant, and chilled house beats are the perfect level to add atmosphere without being overbearing. If the rolling sea views weren’t wow-worthy enough, the perfectly framed Burj Al Arab is a majestic addition to the vistas. The aesthetic is perfectly in keeping with the five-star surroundings, a glamorous crowd catch up over sharing plates and glasses of perfectly chilled rosé, but it’s inviting without being stuffy.

Like the original, Summersalt by Kayto’s cuisine is inspired by classic Nikkei flavours, fusing Peruvian and Japanese dishes, but with a beachy twist. All dishes are designed to be shared, whether enjoyed as a sun-drenched lunch, or enjoying a romantic date night with an alfresco dinner under the stars.

A bowl of edamame (Dhs30) flaked with Maldon rock salt arrives soon after we sit down, and is the perfect snack to graze on as we peruse the menu. The beverage list is extensive and well-curated, with a full page of French wines on the first page, followed by world wines and a selection of sake. Wines by the bottle start from the mid-Dhs400, which is towards the more expensive side but not unreasonably so for the setting.

We share a tuna truffle ceviche (Dhs100), which may be small but is packed with flavour. From the signature rolls, a shrimp tempura with avocado (Dhs90) has an impossibly light batter encasing fresh bites of shrimp, and slivers of avocado topping the fluffy sushi rice.

A much replicated Dubai dish is the miso black cod (Dhs195), with only a handful of restaurants executing it with finesse and flavour. Summersalt by Kayto can now sit among those, with a sweet sticky miso glaze topping chunks of meltin-the-mouth cod. Moving more towards the Peruvian influence, a slow cooked lamb shoulder (Dhs190) is braised for 36 hours, producing a tender cut of meat that pairs perfectly with creamy truffle mash and a mushroom escabeche. Our only complaint is that it’s slightly underseasoned.

While the whole meal is exceptional, the cheesecake brûlée with a zesty mandarin sorbet, (Dhs60), successfully eclipses it all and might be the best dessert we’ve eaten in Dubai. Summersalt by Kayto, Jumeirah Al Naseem, 12.30pm to 12am daily. Tel: (800) 323232. jumeirah.com WHAT’S ON VERDICT Go for the views, stay for the vibe – and the cheesecake brûlée. This is the coolest new beachfront address in the city.

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REVIEW: LOREN

A chic trattoria overlooking Palm West Beach

Dubai diners are so spoilt for choice when it comes to restaurants, that each venue has to push their creativity to new bounds in order to stand out. It’s not enough to have a great menu anymore. It’s not even enough to offer brilliant views. Guests get excited about restaurants that offer the full package, from interiors to service, food, drinks, location; the list goes on.

Thankfully for Ristorante Loren – the chic Italian concept, which recently opened atop SAN Beach at Palm West Beach – many of these boxes are ticked. The attention to detail is impressive, from gorgeous velvet menus with tiny doorknob handles to the fresh fish display, encased in marble and billowing with dry ice. It’s luxe without being pretentious.

From the aforementioned menu, the antipasti selection is indulgent and exciting. The fritto all’ Italiana (Dhs120) comprises five different tapas bites which, while not ideal for sharing, do offer an intriguing variety of flavours. A seahorse-shaped plate serves a potato croquette, a bucatini with truffle caio e pepe and ossobuco saffron arancini, giving a taste of what’s to come through authentic Italian flavours.

A special mention has to go to ravioli del plin alla genovese (Dhs125). These delicious pockets of juicy slow cooked wagyu beef cheek are encased in al dente pasta pillows, before being drizzled with a heart-warming butter sage sauce and sauteed mushrooms. We would return for this dish alone.

Mains feature more slow cooked wagyu beef cheek, this time served under a grissini dome. The guancia di wagyu (Dhs195) is both succulent and flavourful, dripping in bell pepper sauce and complemented by the crunchy dome. The presentation was a little sloppy but what it lacked in Instagrammability it made up for in taste. If you’re more of a pesce fan, the Scottish salmon arrosto (Dhs165) is a satisfying alternative. Beautifully pan-fried, the flaky fish paired well with its accompanying fregola risotto. But to really elevate the meal, add on some truffle mash potato (Dhs45) or beautifully crispy chunky fries (Dhs35).

The dessert menu hasn’t been overlooked at Loren. A selection of authentic Italian treats is available, including a traditional tiramisu (Dhs55), served with a chocolate ‘cigar’ in a large stone bowl. For something a little lighter, we recommend the coco bello Italiano (Dhs55). Served in a coconut shell, coconut mousse is layered with mango smoothie and topped with almond and vanilla crumble. Its, creamy, crunchy and indulgent without leaving you ready to be rolled out the door. Ristorante Loren, The Club, Palm West Beach, Sun to Thur noon to midnight, Fri & Sat noon to 1am. Tel: (0)4 557 8293. @ristorante.loren WHAT’S ON VERDICT A pictureperfect venue with a perfectly pleasant menu.

REVIEW: ONZE

How does this new addition fare in a sea of beloved restaurants at Dubai Creek Resort?

It’s hard to imagine that there was something missing from the burgeoning collection of restaurants at Dubai Creek Resort. This sprawling spot at the picturesque Creek is already home to institutions like QD’s and Boardwalk, the iconic Traiteur brunch and Twiggy, a beach club that sent the city’s daytime clubbing scene into a spin when it opened in January 2021. But it would appear there’s always room for more, as the resort recently welcomed Onze to its portfolio. A fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavours, Onze adds to Dubai’s ever-growing list of Nikkei restaurants.

There’s been much promised in the way of local DJs and live entertainment from team Onze, but at least for now, that’s not yet launched. When we arrive on a mid-week evening, the tempo is more relaxed, with chilled tracks playing softly in the background. Not that that matters. We’re instantly impressed with this expansive alfresco restaurant, which is almost entirely outside. It’s sleek and contemporary with lush plants dividing up the huge terrace, separating the neon pink bar from the more formal restaurant, and the string of cabanas that line the edge, designed for casual grazing and admiring the views. Speaking of views, Onze instantly bags brownie points for its vistas of the golf course greens, calm waters of the Creek and twinkling city skyline in the distance.

From the ceviche bar, the ceviche classico (Dhs80) is fresh and well presented, but the leche de tigre dilutes the punchy flavour we expect. The Onze tsukemen ceviche (Dhs85) fares much better and finishing it with the Onze furikake adds welcome theatrics. Of the taquitos, we try both the salmon (Dhs65) and wagyu (Dhs85) and struggle to decide which we prefer. Each taco is a puffed, crispy shell packed with textures, the salmon with wasabi pearls, the wagyu with pepper and avocado. We’re surprised by how much we enjoy the mizuna salad (Dhs45) a mix of Japanese leaves and avocado with just the right amount of jalapeno dressing. Arguably the standout dish is the Amazonic lobster (Dhs160), fresh bites of neatly sized lobster are coated in a tempura batter made with sparkling water to give it an impossibly light weight texture, and a welcome hint of shichimi spice. We squeeze in a dessert of homemade churros covered in sugar and cinnamon. With each stick, we mop up every drop of the 60 per cent cacao sauce. Onze, Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club, Port Saeed, 5pm to 3am daily. Tel: (0)4 250 6567. dubaicreekresort.com/ onze WHAT’S ON VERDICT Onze has all the ingredients to become a stylish new hotspot, only time will tell if it can draw diners regularly to this corner of town.

REVIEW: LA NIÑA

A new addition to DIFC’s thriving dining scene

In an area like DIFC, where fine dining restaurants are plentiful, ICD Brookfield Place is solidifying itself as the spot to find the crème de la crème of hotspots. First came The Arts Club, a century-and-a-half-old institution that opened its first international outpost in the building two years ago. From the minds of Il Borro and Alici, we will soon welcome Josette to ICD, but before its arrival, La Niña has made its grand entrance. Brought to us by the team behind Opa, Bagatelle and Myrra, La Niña draws culinary inspiration from Spain and Portugal.

The interiors are pulled straight from Lisbon, with double-height ceilings, and patterned blue tiles stretching all the way up. A water fountain at the entrance and a sail-shaped curtain helps us to forget about the bustling financial district outside and transport us to a Mediterranean setting. We’re a little early, so take a seat at the marble bar while waiting for our table.

Our barman tells us about what life is like in Portugal and fixes us a pair of creative cocktails (whipped port, anyone?), while we work through a bowl of olives and cured wagyu with caviar – a refined start to the evening and the details don’t go unnoticed. The venue is cleverly designed to make a large space feel intimate. The majority of the restaurant will spill onto the terrace once its ready to open later this month. It’s only when we take a sneak peek outside that we’re reminded of our location, as DIFC’s skyscrapers surround us and flood the terrace with light.

With so few Portuguese restaurants in Dubai, we’re keen to experience La Niña’s take on bacalhau (traditional salted cod, Dhs85). There are many ways to serve it, and this one comes in the form of fried fritters, alongside piri piri aioli. With four per plate, the substantial balls are balanced in flavour and pretty satisfying, although maybe not quite as good as the ones you’d find in Portugal.

The real highlight of the starters is the coca de trufa (Dhs85), a warm crispy tart oozing with melted cheese and finished with truffle and sliced figs. We love an indulgent dish (and anything with cheese) so this one really hits the spot. And because life is about balance, we oblige the recommendation of ensalada la Niña (Dhs45). Expecting a bowl of lettuce, roasted corn, tomato, Cotija cheese and pumpkin seeds, we’re surprised to see the salad served in individual baby gems leaves. The hand-held style is genius, and the combination of fresh flavours is a welcome experience after one too many slices of melted cheese and fig.

Mains offer an intriguing, albeit pricey, selection of meat and fish dishes, and we opt for the lenguado al josper (Dhs650). Our server swiftly removes all bones from our filet of dover sole, which has been grilled in the josper oven and topped with tomato, smoked chili, and almonds. It’s light and flaky on the inside with a charred exterior that gives the fish a smoky flavour.

Each dish on the dessert menu has a suggested drinks pairing, from aged whiskey to a bottle of Champagne. Our dessert, caviar y coco (Dhs295) is recommended to pair well with the latter, but we defer in favour of another cocktail. The coconut ice-cream is incredibly smooth and drizzled in caviar oil. Using a porcelain spoon or a mini banana pancake, we scoop up mouthfuls of ice-cream and caviar. It’s a mix we haven’t considered before, but the light caviar flavour does well not to overpower the rest of the dessert. La Niña, ICD Brookfield Place, DIFC, daily 12pm to 4pm and 7.30pm to 1am. Tel: (0)50 889 8336. @laninadubai WHAT’S ON VERDICT A venue worthy of its coveted location, and one that should be added into your DIFC dining roster.

REVIEW: LAGUNA BEACH TAVERNA

A Mediterranean escape on Palm Jumeirah

Laguna Beach Taverna has been on our must-try list since it opened. Its alluring bohemian chic vibe, with wooden canopy design and elegant finishes are right up our street.

As we walk in, we’re greeted by the fragrant sea breeze and sandy floors. We quickly kick off our sandals and make our way to our shoreline table. The ambiance feels serene, with white linen drapes swaying in the breeze and glowing lights on each table, whilst beachy tech-house music plays in the background, transporting us to our own Grecian Island. Once we’re perched at our natural wood table, we’re able to fully admire the view, which stretches over The Palm fronds, while hints of the Ain Dubai show through the gaps.

Laguna Beach Taverna curates Mediterranean Greek dishes designed for sharing. To start, we graze over some Greek olives (Dhs35), salty Padron peppers (Dhs40) and a delicious rustic breadbasket paired with a refreshing Greek yogurt dip. The olives and Padron peppers went down swiftly alongside the crusty rosemary bread.

Next up, a selection of Dibba Bay oysters (Dhs320) and a trio of carpaccio (Dhs110) featuring lobster, sea bass and salmon join our table. The carpaccio is fresh and elegant, while hints of dill and Australian lime bring wonderful bursts of citrus flavours to the dish. The oysters, which are served on a bed of ice with lemon wedges and mignonette, are exceptional. Their luxurious presentation matches their taste.

The main event features woodfire grilled octopus (Dhs185), prawns (Dhs260), and a whole sea bass (Dhs400), which is filleted right at our table. All the dishes are seasoned with parsley, lemon, and dill for a truly Mediterranean flavour. We’re also given Kalamata olives in a small bowl so that we can dress our fish with salty delights, creating a medley of delicious flavours. The star of the show has to be awarded to the sea bass, which is cooked to perfection, with soft and light white meat and a crispy and salty exterior.

Our favourite side dish is the baked baby potatoes, outshining the triple cooked chips (Dhs55) which lacked their traditional crispiness. All the accompanying dips are delicious, too, whether drizzled over our fish and potatoes, or mopped up with pitas and leftover bread.

For those who are smart enough to save room for dessert, the olive oil cake served with lemon zest and freshly whipped ricotta cream is an exceptional option. Laguna Beach Taverna & Lounge, Sofitel Dubai The Palm Jumeirah, East Crescent Rd, 12pm to 2am daily. Tel: (0)4 455 6677. sofitel-dubaithepalm.com WHAT’S ON VERDICT Divine food and friendly staff, this venue is perfect for a lazy lunch, sundowner or a relaxed dinner with friends.

CellReturn LED Mask

Price: Dhs8,498 Supercharge your skincare routine with the CellReturn Platinum LED mask. This Korean skincare gadget is known to be one of the best LED masks globally with a multitude of benefits such as boosting collagen, improving the appearance of acne, blemishes, and redness and reducing the appearance of pores and wrinkles for healthier and younger looking skin. cellreturn.ae

Serenity Seamless by L’Couture

Price: Dhs250 (sports bra), Dhs295 (leggings), and Dhs395 (mesh spacer jacket) Keeping your healthy new year’s resolution is easy with new workout gear. This threepiece Serenity Seamless set from L’Couture will make you feel put together, chic, and ready to smash your fitness goals. Additionally, the set is made from biodegradable fabric, so you’ll feel comfortable knowing you’re helping the environment with a sustainable alternative. lcouture.com

SEVA Turkish Sage

Price: Dhs49 Start the year by clearing the negative energy from your space with sage. When released into the air, sage releases negative ions, which are known to improve your mood, reduce stress, and relieve pain. Just remember to open a window or door to allow the unwanted energy to get out. sevastories.shop

WELLNESS WISHLIST

It’s your year. Here are a dozen ways to invest in yourself for the ultimate self-care shop

Gaudia Beauty Scalp Serum

Price: Dhs249 Gaudi Beauty is a UAE-based clean beauty brand focused on scalp treatment formulas, because great hair starts with the scalp. Their serum uses the natural healing powers of date seeds and the balancing properties of prebiotics. The result? Reduced dandruff and irritation and rejuvenated skin cells to promote growth. gaudiabeauty.com

Birkenstock Sandals

Price: Dhs479 “You’ll never wear them,” said no one ever. Constructed to make you feel like you’re standing in sand, Birkenstocks are comfy yet chic, and really kind to your feet. With adjustable straps and a deep heel cup, the sandals mold around your foot, offering full support and stability. birkenstock.com/ae

Lyre’s Amalfi Non-Alcoholic Spritz Set

Price: Dhs150 Perhaps it’s time for a little detox? Those staying away from alcohol this Dry January are in luck with Lyre’s range of lovingly crafted nonalcoholic drinks. If you’re looking for a distinct yet contemporary cocktail flavour, Lyre’s Amalfi Spritz box set is the perfect alternative. Enjoy with their alcohol-free sparkling wine, or simply topped up with soda for a refreshing drink in the beautiful UAE weather. lyres.me

Bullet Journal

Price: Dhs102 If one of your resolutions is to get more organised, then get your hands on a Bullet Journal. Declutter, set up your tasks and lists, write down your goals, reflect, and get creative. The dot-grid journal is a next-level notebook that can be a calendar, diary, to-do list and goal tracker with stickers, 120gsm paper, and a pocket guide. bulletjournal.com

Ninja Air Fryer

Price: Dhs348 If eating healthier is on your new year’s resolutions, this kitchen gadget should be on your radar. The Ninja air fryer uses 75 per cent less fat than traditional methods for delicious guilt-free meals in less cooking time. ninjakitchen.com

Second Summer Linen Sets

Price: Dhs540 (shirt), Dhs460 (trousers) UAE-founded fashion label Second Summer is all about conscious and sustainable fashion. With two annual capsule collections, each piece can be mixed and matched to build a complete, trans-seasonal wardrobe. secondsummerlabel.com

Organic Glow Herbal Tea

Price: Dhs29 Keep your skin hydrated and glowing throughout the day with Brw Society’s herbal tea. This organic herbal infusion has less than one calorie per cup, and it tastes delicious with its fruity yet spicy undertones. Loaded with antioxidants, the caffeine-free tea can be enjoyed hot or cold. brwsociety.com

SLIP Pure Silk Pillowcase

Price: Dhs288 We spend one third of our lives in bed so we may as well do it right. Slip’s pure silk pillowcases are gentle on hair and skin and luxuriously soft, like a facial and hair treatment every night. Crafted from long fibre mulberry silk, they are anti-aging, anti-bed head, and anti-sleep crease. slip.com

Sea Moss Gel

Price: Dhs145 Seamoss is one of the most powerful superfoods found in the ocean. Apart from its anti-inflammatory effects, this algae is a natural healer and packed with vitamins and minerals the body craves for better physical and emotional health. Blend into smoothies, take a spoon a day, or use as a face or hair mask to reap the benefits. seamoss.ae