TRAVEL

Embracing the chaos of Cairo

The cultural heart of the Arab world, Cairo is not for the fainthearted. Loud, congested, polluted and frustrating, it nevertheless offers a wealth of beauty for those who are willing to delve into its ancient streets and alleyways

Abou El Sid

Located on a nondescript side-street in the trendy district of Zamalek, at first glance Abou El Sid seems a little too underwhelming to even bother stepping inside. But the moment you push through its giant wooden doors, you are immediately transported to another world. Kitschy and dimly-lit, it’s one of those places where the dining experience is made all the better by the venue itself. There are ornate chandeliers, lanterns, shutters, and images of the icons of Egypt’s golden age of music and cinema. There are old culinary favourites, such as foul with tahini, kofta, koshari, and baba ghanoush, but push the boat out and try some of the specialities. These include mulukhiyah with rabbit and white rice, Circassian chicken in walnut sauce, and stuffed pigeon with freekeh. You won’t be disappointed.

Muizz Street

A stone’s throw from the craziness that is Khan el-Khalili, Muizz Street runs north-to-south within the walled city of historic Cairo. It’s a double winner for any visitor. On the one hand it enables you to enjoy the hustle and bustle of one of the oldest streets in Cairo. On the other, it allows you to experience Islamic Cairo in all its glory. Approximately a kilometre in length, Al-Mu’izz li-Din Allah Al-Fatimi Street (that’s its full name) is lined with an embarrassment of architectural riches, including the Madrasa and Mausoleum of al-Salih Najm al-Din Ayyub, the Qalawun Complex, and the Beshtak Palace. If that’s not enough, it’s also within easy walking distance of both the Al-Azhar Mosque and the Al-Hussein Mosque.

Pyramids of Giza

No trip to Cairo would be complete without a visit to the Pyramids of Giza. To not walk up to the Great Pyramid of Giza, the Pyramid of Khafre, or the Great Sphinx of Giza would be like travelling to Athens and not visiting the Acropolis or the Parthenon. It’s just not the done thing. Perched perilously close to the edge of the modern city of Giza, the entire complex has been delighting travellers for centuries and still holds sway over millions of visitors every year. Viewing one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World in person can be a surreal experience and for an additional fee you can even enter the Great Pyramid of Giza. Doing so gives you access to the King’s Chamber, but be warned: the tiny passageways leading to the chamber can be cramped and claustrophobic.

Sobhy Kaber

Another culinary treat, Sobhy Kaber is the absolute bomb when it comes to dining out in Cairo. It’s not much to look at, just a large, garishly lit room in a modern glass-fronted building, but man does it do good food. Located in Rod El Farag and within easy walking distance of the Nile, to be honest it’s more theatre than restaurant. From the ridiculously long queues and the cavernous interior, to the grilled meats and kofta, be sure to come prepared for a performance. Make sure you try the mulukhiyah, which is served at your table with such a flourish that it’s worth all the queues and the wait in the world.

Khan el-Khalili

A sprawling warren of alleyways and traders that can bamboozle the uninitiated, Khan el-Khalili is Egypt’s most famous souq. It’s been around since the 14th century and is as crazy as you’d imagine a medieval Cairene bazaar to be. A hive of narrow lanes and small courtyards, the easiest thing to do is get lost. Everything from silverware and soap to antiques and alabaster pyramids are on sale, but if you’re looking for something in particular, do some research in advance. If not, just embrace the madness and haggle. Don’t even attempt to visit if you suffer from claustrophobia. Oh, and if fancy a coffee or a short respite, pop into El Fishawi, one of the oldest (it was first opened in 1797) cafes in Cairo.

WHERE TO STAY

Four Seasons Cairo at The First Residence

Perched on the western bank of the Nile, the Four Seasons Cairo at The First Residence is the perfect location from which to explore the city. Surrounded by lush botanical gardens and offering everything from a fourth-floor outdoor pool to nine restaurants and bars and a Turkish hammam, there’s really nothing more you could ask for. There’s a luxury mall connected to the hotel, too, which provides three floors of high-end boutique shopping, and a casino.

For food lovers, however, the cherry on the cake is the First Nile Boat, which features a number of venues, including the pan-Asian restaurant Nairu and Xodó, a Brazilian churrascaria. We opted for the latter. If you’re going to do the same, make sure you’re hungry. The dishes come thick and fast at Xodó and it’s easy to overindulge in the first few rounds, such is the quality of the food. And that’s before you’ve even begun on the meat. Once the Angus beef strip loin churrasco, the marinated Australian lamb chops, the veal and chicken sausage spirals with cuiabana cheese, and the beef bacon-wrapped turkey breasts are rolled out, well… it’s a meat lover’s heaven, isn’t it. All of which is served, of course, with a perfect Nile-side view. a Room rates for a Four Seasons Executive Suite start at $550 (bed only and excluding all applicable taxes and service charge). For a Superior Room, room rates start at $200. fourseasons.com/cairo

TRAVELLING TO CAIRO – HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

01 Travellers with a Covid‑19 vaccination certificate do not have to take a pre‑departure PCR test, so make sure to print your vaccination certificate before your flight. If you are unvaccinated, you are required to present a negative PCR test, taken no longer than 72 hours before departure. Children under 12 do not require a negative PCR test. 02 All passengers must complete a health declaration form provided on board your flight. 03 To return to the UAE, you’ll need to present a negative PCR test, no older than 72 hours. Test centres are open across Cairo.

Hungry for Hungary

Budapest is more than just a nightlife hotspot. Explore the capital’s grungy but cool vibe on both sides of the Danube and find out what sets this European city apart

TO-DO LIST:

HAVE No, we don’t mean sit in the bathtub A BATH of your hotel. We mean, make like the Romans and soak in a bath built centuries ago – it might just be the most glorious thing you’ll do in Budapest. The biggest is

Szechenyi Baths, and one step inside will have you feeling like you’ve accidentally found your way onto the set of a

Romanesque period film. The architecture is exquisite, the choice of baths enormous, and there’s a huge outdoor pool that makes for an incredibly relaxing Friday night in. If it’s more of a party that you want, luckily you can just stay in the water; Budapest’s weekend spa parties are the stuff of many an Eastern Europe backpacker’s campfire stories. q szechenyispabaths.com

DIVE INTO LAKE HEVIZ

If you want to travel out of town, Lake Heviz is a fantastic option. Two hours southwest of Budapest, Heviz is the second-largest thermal lake in the world. On a sunny day there’s nothing better than grabbing an inflatable donut and floating around. There are also mud, salt and ice baths, a spa, and several indoor pools. q heviz.hu/lake-heviz VISIT PARLIAMENT

Getting political on holiday might not sound particularly exhilarating, but you’ll understand when you see the Hungarian Parliament Building: the place is enormous. Known as one of the most beautiful legislative buildings in the world, this architectural behemoth has 691 rooms, 29 staircases, 27 gates and 10 courtyards. At 96 metres high, it rivals the grand St Stephen’s Basilica as the tallest building in the city. NonEU citizens can take a guided tour for HUF5,200 (Dhs66) to experience the grandeur first-hand. q hungarianparliament.com

A dilapidated watering hole probably doesn’t sound like the stuff of dreams but get past the crumbling exterior (and interior, actually) and you’ll wander into the ultimate hipster hangout. The venues inside are typically in a crumbling façade, with walls covered in bizarre doodles and décor featuring hanging bicycles, disembodied mannequins, car parts and even a Chucky doll or two. q ruinpubs.com

VISIT A RUIN BAR

GET ME THERE:

Emirates flies direct to Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport from Dhs2,495 return. q emirates.com

DON’T LEAVE HUNGARY WITHOUT EATING

01 Goulash (gulyas)

Probably the most famed of all Hungarian dishes, you simply can’t go to Budapest and not have goulash. Somewhere between a soup and a stew, peppered with the Hungarian people’s favourite spice (paprika), and filled with meat and vegetables, this is the ultimate winter dish. Pro tip: get one in a bread bowl. Eat it at: Getto Gulyas (Dhs16 for two-course meal of the day and drink), Wesselényi u. 18

02 Langos

You simply have not known true love until you’ve eaten deep-fried bread topped with garlic, cheese, some form of meat, and a generous smattering of sour cream. If you’re on a diet: cancel it. Eat it at: Retro Langos Bufe (Dhs9), Podmaniczky Frigyes tér 4

03 Kurtos Kalacs

The original Chimney Cake may have been birthed in Transylvania, but the sweet, cylindrical, cinnamon and sugar bread spread throughout Hungary like wildfire and is now their most beloved dessert. The best ones are coated in nuts or chocolate. Eat it at: Just about any food stall in the city.