EAT

CHAMAS

All you can eat meat? Challenge accepted…

e’re at InterContinental Abu

WDhabi’s award-winning Brazilian steakhouse Chamas, to try out its churrascaria night.

It’s a thrice-weekly theatre for the carnivorous, a traditional South American all-you-can-eat conveyor belt of quality cuts. And we’ve come prepared, attired in stretchy waistbands, for this is a meaty Everest we were born to climb.

Chamas has interior and terrace seating, both possessed of their own charms. Despite an inclination to sit amongst the flickering flame-pillar lamps and drink in the marina views, there’s still a lingering winter chill in the air, so we opt for the cosy low-lit interior.

After being seated, we begin to notice a few departures from the standard restaurant experience. There’s a slim discshaped card placed on the table alongside our cutlery; it’s a traffic light indicator for our servers. The green on one side translates as ‘feed me’, a signal for the passing gauchos to carve you off a slice of their freshly grilled cargo.

The red is of course for ‘stop please’, temporary submission, a moment on the ropes before you’re ready to head into the ring for the next round.

And it’s not solely a meat feast. There’s a whole elaborate buffet of sides, appetisers and dishes that would happily compose a meal in their own right. But we’ve already flipped the disc, and the first meat delivery arrives at our table.

It’s garlic beef, cooked to a perfect medium and skillfully shaved off a swordmounted-joint by the attending gaucho in the house ‘espetocorrido‘ style. The rich flavour of the grill, and roundness of the marinade are an early reassurance that this will be an enjoyable ascent up the meat mountain.

Our signal stays green and more cuts follow, with a variety of preparations and provenance. Wagyu, Black Angus, Hereford and other breeds are given signature Latin rubs before being cooked over flame. There are veal and juicy salt marsh lamb cuts too, and cinnamon sprinkled grilled pineapple for palate cleansing purposes.

In between servings, we grab some assorted side dishes from the buffet. Brazillian salad, tacos and seafood; it’s all of that top-rung brunch standard we’ve come (perhaps unreasonably) to expect from buffets in the region, but it’s undoubtedly the waves of skewered-beef that are the main protagonist of this story.

Reluctantly, we turn the disc to red and hit pause on the meat climb, because with an all-you-can-eat service, the summit is never liable to loom into view. We’re here to enjoy the journey, and that we very much have, cheerily heading off to base camp for a light round of cheese and dessert. And, maybe, a bit more beef.

Verdict: Chamas is, without doubt, one of the city’s top steakhouses and this churrascaria package is an essential excursion for the capital’s meat fanciers. a InterContinental Abu Dhabi, Al Bateen, Wed to Fri 6pm to 11pm, food only package Dhs325, soft Dhs385, house Dhs485, kids Dhs175. Tel: (800) 423 463, @chamasad

RATING

Food ���������������������������������������������������������������� A Atmosphere ���������������������������������������������������� Price ���������������������������������������������������������

SHANG PALACE

A new dainty dim sum lunch menu

f you’re the type that

Iappreciates good Asian food, there’s a strong chance you’ll be well acquainted with the concept of dim sum.

Chomp-sized pockets of pastry stuffed with intense aromatic flavour combinations that, when pinched between a pair of chopsticks and dipped into some neighbouring soy, light-up a truly unique constellation of palate points.

The memory of these taste experiences then becomes fuel for desperate, spontaneous road-trip types of craving. Which is why we’ve just parked up outside Shangri-La Hotel Abu Dhabi — they’ve recently launched a new all-you-can-eat lunchtime daily dim sum deal. Combined with the fact that it’s just Dhs138, it has real game-changing potential.

We’re taking our lunch alfresco, on a corner table of the courtyard terrace. It’s a romantic setting, shaded by neat palm trees, just up the beachy banks of the resident khor’s waterway.

Our waitress arrives to take our order for round one, and with it being an allyou-can eat affair over a leisurely threehour stretch, it’s more about pace than race. We select shrimp and chicken siew mai, some crispy beef wonton and wild mushroom dumplings.

The dainty collection arrives bearing the hallmarks of highly skilled dumpling chefs. Each perfectly symmetrical piece is recreated with laser precision, and the first bites confirm authenticity of flavour. Higher forms of Cantonese yum cha are as much about ritual and aesthetics as they are flavour. And it’s all here.

Firm, juicy, joy-sparking nuggets piqued by exotic spices of the Orient.

Our next dim sum serving (walnut puff stuffed with roasted duck meat, lotus and black bean sauce; cheng feng waffle scallop and shrimp roll; and large seafood ‘soup buns’) is supplemented with wokfried noodles and charcoal-grilled lamb.

The steamed buns gush with gingerinfused soup when pressed by a knife, like the Guangzhou equivalent of poached yolk piercing. The puffs are elegant, artful little morsels and the cheng feng roll, radiating with umami, is an unassuming contender for star dish.

More courses follow. Crispy teriyaki river shrimp; steamed wild mushroom buns with chicken and oyster sauce — that look like actual mushrooms; seafood puffs that look like enchanted gobstoppers; and egg fried rice that looks like, well, egg fried rice but is delicious despite a lack of parody.

We’d like to be able to tell you that we ate responsibly, stopped when we felt full, and had plenty of space for dessert. But that would be a lie. We over-indulged, and we regret nothing.

Verdict: At Dhs138 this genuinely could be one of the best value meals in the capital. It’s an authentic, artistic, flavourpacked treat that satisfies pretty much all of the senses. Rating: A a Shang Palace, Shangri La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri, noon to 3pm, food only Dhs138, soft package Dhs168. Tel: (02) 509 8555, @shangrilaabudhabi

RATING

Food ���������������������������������������������������������������� A Atmosphere ��������������������������������������������������� Price �������������������������������������������������������

Let them eat cake

Brunch & Cake opens in Abu Dhabi

Brunch & Cake is a Spanish brand by nationality, born and raised in the barrios of Barcelona. But following two very successful venue launches in Dubai, it’s become a name that keeps coming up in UAE food conversations. And rightfully so.

The chain of restaurants is known for chic boho interiors, and also for the menu, which features wholesome and delicious dishes that demand Instagram recognition.

Now the fiesta has landed in Abu Dhabi, with the opening of the city’s very first Brunch & Cake outlet in the appropriately picturesque district of Marsa Al Bateen Marina.

The Dubai locations have become breakfast date spots of note, with a joyful mix of aesthetics on the walls and on the palate. And here in Abu Dhabi, it looks like the lineage is in safe hands.

These first photos of the venue show panoramic window arrangements, subtle pastel shades, trendy design tweaks, and a parade of vibrant gastronomy.

Exclusive Abu Dhabi bites include the New York cheesecake-style ricotta pancakes, pepperoni pizza with chilli honey jam, deep fried pizza bites, and burrata toast. a Marsa Al Bateen Marina, Shop 9, Abu Dhabi. Sun to Wed 8am to 10pm, Thursdays and Saturdays 8am to 10.30pm. @brunchandcakeuae

Kofta XXL

Sambusek launches new meaty experience

If you like your kebabs supersized, it’s off to Sambusek with you this March. They’re offering a one-metre-long, 700 gram kofta, paired with Mediterranean vegetables and garnished with a dusting of parsley and fried nuts for Dhs290. It’s good for between two to four people (or one tenacious meat lover) and can be enjoyed with the dreamy seascape views afforded by the Al Maryah Island setting. a Rosewood Abu Dhabi, Al Maryah Island, midday to 12.30am, Dhs270. Tel: (02) 813 5520, rosewoodhotels.com

More meat feasts at Grills@Chill’O

Breezy terrace eatery, Grills@Chill’O is putting on a daily ‘Kil’O Night’ which is a legit meat feast. Diners are presented with a kilo of either US prime Angus tenderloin, Westholme Wagyu ribeye, or US black Angus prime rib, a set of sides (which include truffle crushed potatoes, sautéed purple asparagus, and baby spinach with garlic cream) and a bottle of grape for just Dhs750. a Sofitel Abu Dhabi Corniche, Corniche Road East Capital Plaza Complex. Tel: (02) 813 7777, sofitelabudhabicorniche.com