What's On | November 2010

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UAE DHS 10 OMAN RO 1.000

RUGBY SEVENS 2010

K A A PR NN I Y P Y AD E NC A R LI W E S K N A E, K L A IS A T NT M

DHS 10 NOVEMBER 2010 ISSUE 391

!O N I D I W PV E

YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE DISCOVER DUBAI’S BEST BEACH CLUBS

For those with taste

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On trend, every season

Contents Features 17 7s heaven The boys are back in town for the Dubai Rugby 7s 25 Life's a beach We go in search of Dubai's best beach clubs 30 Dubai World Championship Ones to watch in the golf tournament, plus we chat with Louis Oosthuizen

34 Yasalam F1 is roars into the capital and this year Prince, Kanye West and Linkin Park are coming along for the party. We give you the low-down 40 Curry collection We prepared our palates and overdosed on the spicy stuff to find Dubai’s 30 best curries

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The round-up 67 Art Beautiful People in Bastakiya, going green in Al Quoz and five to see this month

91 Music & clubs Band of the month Juliana Down and what's happening in clubland

74 Shopping Pay attention men, Sophia says you ARE judged by your shoes, plus our essential beach reads

97 Travel Going long haul in Catalonia, relaxation, Sri Lankan style, explorer Adrian Hayes’ top tips and November's best deals

77 Mind & body Jet lag treatments, haircuts, LPG magic and a trip to Jasmine Spa

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86 Sport & outdoor Our running mission continues, plus Mr Fitness tackles your health questions

111 Hot list Dubai's top bars, restaurants, brunches and spas 130 Backchat Catboy on how he'll face his midlife crisis

14 Salaam What's what in Dubai in November 44 Films Our verdict on George Clooney's starring role in The American, plus Burke & Hare, Saw 3D and more 47 Eating out La Petite Maison, cooking with Vineet Bhatia, 12 new brunches and The Critic on why fresh is best 65 Competitions Get your hands on prizes including brunches, dinners and energy drinks. For more, see pages 72, 94 and 128 4 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

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PROJECT MK-8111 UAE WHAT’S ON MAG (SPREAD)

ISSUE/POST DATE NOV 10

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This month we’ve been...

Editor-in-Chief Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Group Editor & Managing Partner lan Fairservice Group Senior Editor Gina Johnson | gina@motivate.ae Editor Mark Evans | marke@motivate.ae Deputy Editor Helen Spearman | helen@motivate.ae Features Editor Gareth Rees | gareth@motivate.ae Chief Sub Editor Iain Smith | iains@motivate.ae Senior Designer Sheila Lyn Carino | sheila@motivate.ae Editorial Assistant/Picture Researcher Karen Sequeira | karen@motivate.ae Picture Researcher - Gulfpics Wayne Fernandez | wayne@motivate.ae Contributors Naveed Ahmed, Victor Besa, James Brennan, Louise Browne, Stef Burgon, Vikram Gawde, Robbie Greenfield, James Houghton, Catherine Jarvie, Russell Kempson, Richard Luck, Farooq Salik, Simon Smedley, Sophia Triantafillou, Tom Watterson, Adam Workman General Manager Production and Circulation S Sasidharan | sasidharan@motivate.ae Production Manager Sudhakar Chandran | sudhakar@motivate.ae Production Controller Murali Krishnan | muralik@motivate.ae

Karting with Juliana Down, p91

Rubbing shoulders with Gordon Ramsay, p55

Testing curries, p40

Editor’s note

Abu Dhabi: PO Box 43072, UAE, Tel: +971 2 677 2005, Fax: +971 2 677 0124, E-mail: editor-wo@motivate.ae

Can I be completely honest? I’m not really a rugby fan. It’s not my fault – I’m from a part of the UK that’s obsessed with one sport, and one sport alone, and that’s football. The idea of spending any time at all watching a sport other than the beautiful game – and my beloved Sunderland, specifically – just seems, well, weird. Yet the longer I live in the Emirates, the more I’m becoming embroiled in the whole brouhaha that is the rugby sevens.

I remember my first visit, some five years ago, at the old Exiles ground. New to Dubai and already badly missing my footy fix, I thought I’d give it a whirl; see what all the noise was about. Talk about an eye-opener. Where were the mounted police? What about the gangs of grown men trying to kill each other? And what were those Australians doing, laughing and joking and singing songs? Were they drunk? They looked spangled – but kind of ‘happy spangled’. I’m not going to lie to you – I didn’t like it. I didn’t like it one little bit. At one stage, some people, complete strangers, yeah, they just said ‘hi’. Hi. That was it – like they knew me and were just having fun?

Weird, man, I’m telling you.

Five years later and I’m coming around to the idea. My footy obsession in hand, thanks to live games on TV, I’m able to acknowledge that there are other sports out there. And as a well-rounded individual, not to mention What’s On editor (OK, just as What’s On editor, one out of two ain’t bad), I can appreciate the rugby sevens for what it is – a really fun weekend. Let’s face it, the sevens is a Dubai institution; it’s about so much more than just a game of rugby. And this year, like tens of thousands of others, I’ll be there, amongst all the action and the excitement of a great weekend.

Just don’t expect me to wear a rugby shirt.

London: Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER, UK, E-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae

Enjoy the issue.

General Manager – Group Sales Anthony Milne | anthony@motivate.ae Senior Advertisement Manager Dale Isaac | dale@motivate.ae Advertisement Manager Varsha Bhatia | varsha@motivate.ae General Manager, Abu Dhabi Joe Marrit | joe@motivate.ae Advertisement Manager, Abu Dhabi Darryl Wiley | darryl@motivate.ae Annual Subscription GCC Dhs120 other countries US$70 (including Airmail charges)

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Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 13

We're officially part of the Twitterati.

Follow us at WhatsOnDubai for exclusive updates on nightlife, restaurants and more around the UAE. Tweet yourself.

Salaam!

Petite November

What’s hot Harp-guitar Jiminy Cricket! It’s a harp and a guitar. And Jason Carter, one of the few musicians to master this wondrous instrument, is coming to town this month to show us how to play it.

Nov 15, The Fridge, Al Quoz 4, Street 26, Dubai, from 7.30pm, Dhs50. Tel: (04) 3477793. www. thefridgedubai.com What’s your pin?

We don’t know how, we don’t know why – we just know that someone, somewhere sorted it all out and that the proposed ban on Blackberry is now off. BBM to your heart’s content. Ping!

Gawd bless ‘er Britain’s head of state, Queen Elizabeth II, hits the capital this month, along with her husband, the Duke of Edinburgh, for a two-day visit. It’s the second visit to the UAE for the monarch, who’ll be in the Emirates on the 24 and 25, before going onto Oman. Flags at the ready.

What’s not

GETTY/GALLO IMAGES

My building’s bigger than yours Just when you think you’re king of the castle, someone comes along to knock you from your top spot… A Saudi building company has revealed plans to build the world’s tallest building in Jeddah, which will nab the crown from our very own Burj Khalifa. Boo. Still, these things take time, so until then… we rule! And our dad can beat your dad in a fight. Probably Cost of living Experts are claiming that the UAE is going to see prices rise because the dirham is pegged to the slumping dollar and a global currency war is taking place. In layman’s terms. Prices could rise.

14 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

Guess list What was that? You heard what?

70%

JEAN RENO The French star of Leon appears in The Philosopher, a short film by Fujairah director Abdulla AlKaabi’s that is set to show at DIFF (December 12 to 19), and rumour has it Reno will be front and centre at the festival.

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ALAIN DUCASSE This one came from a star source. Cough, Gordon, cough, Ramsay, cough, splutter.

The French-born chef has 27 restaurants around the world, including the three Michelin star Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester in London, so we wouldn’t be surprised if Gordon was right.

15%

SKYPE TO BE UNBLOCKED This is another one of those constant will

it or won’t its that does the rounds every couple of months, but one of our most reliable tech informants thinks there may be something in it this time. And after all, the Skype’s the limit (excuse us).

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REMM ACRA Lebanese designer Remm Acra is set to open a boutique in Beirut this month, which will be her first outside of New York City.

Next logical step? We're hearing it's the UAE.

This month we’re going to…

DIVAZ Having attended the lavish opening of Divaz, the new floating venue at Jebel Ali Golf Resort, we know it’s a splendid setting for a party. The vessel can accommodate 200 revellers and whether you opt to sail off into the waters of the Arabian Gulf or stay anchored in the hotel’s private marina, you’re sure to rock the boat. We soon found our sea legs, that’s for sure. Anchors away, aye-aye, captain and shiver me timbers.

Jebel Ali Golf Resort & Spa, Jebel Ali, Dubai.

Tel: (04) 8145108. www.jebelali-international.com

Five Questions… Beverley Knight British soul singer Beverley Knight has risen from the British underground scene in the mid-1990s to become an R&B institution, scoring an MBE along the way. She plays the Chequered Flag Ball this month What’s in store for us at the ball?

I’ll be doing a few songs, about 30 minutes or so. There’ll be a collection of old and new – mostly old, so people are familiar with the music. And we’ll be keeping it quite upbeat as well – after all, it is a celebration. I’m hoping to loosen everyone up a bit. When you go to formal occasions the tendency is to feel you have to be quite stiff in your approach. When I hit the stage it will be all about having a good time.

Are you a fan of Formula One? Yeah, I’m a big racing fan. I’ve been to Silverstone in the UK more times than I can mention to see the Grand Prix and I’ve been to Monaco as well, which was fantastic. I always try and catch it on TV, but neither Lewis Hamilton or Jenson Button are doing fantastically well, which I’m quite gutted about. Back home I drive an Audi S5 convertible with a V6 turbo charged engine.

Oh, nice. You won British quiz show Celebrity Mastermind answering question on fellow Grand Prix performer Prince.

Are you pals?

Prince and I have worked together and I’ve had the privilege of singing with him on stage a few times. He very kindly flew

BOOK IT NOW

Grab your tickets for these five upcoming gigs...

JONAS BROTHERS

Nov 18 The teen-pop sensation that is the Jonas Brothers has sold more than eight million records, so they’re clearly doing something right. A certain sell out show.

Yas Arena, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, Dhs150, Dhs350 to Dhs450 with hotel stay. Tel: (02) 5098000 www.thinkflash.ae

NELLY FURTADO

me to his rental home for the 2008 Oscars and got me on stage on the night to sing with him. As a lifelong Prince fan, that was unbelievable. It still remains the greatest experience of my life.

Prince isn’t the only royalty you’ve hung out with though, is he?

No. I did get to meet the Queen. She’s ever so cute. Very little. I got on with her as well as anyone can get on with the Queen. She speaks to you, you don’t speak to her and she didn’t know much about my music or me. Very sweet natured, but one firm handshake. She doesn’t take any nonsense.

What’s happening after the ball for you?

I’ll be recording a new album this month, which is a tribute to British Soul. So look out for that.

Nov 12, Chequered Flag Ball, InterContinental Hotel, Abu Dhabi. Tel: (04) 4456842. www. chequeredflagball.com

Nov 26 The Grammy Award-winning star releases her greatest hits album, Lifestyle, this month, but expect her to wow the crowd with her hits, including I’m Like A Bird, Promiscuous and Say It Right.

Yas Arena, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, Dhs150, Dhs350 to Dhs450 with hotel stay. Tel: (02) 5098000 www.thinkflash.ae

AKON

Dec 3 R&B star Akon’s fourth album Akonic hits the shelves this month, just before the Grammy-nominated rapper flies into town for a one-off Dubai gig.

Dec 3, Dubai World Trade Centre Arena, Dubai, from 7pm, Dhs300 to Dhs850.

Tel: (04) 2958599

GUNS N’ ROSES

Dec 16 Can Axl Rose and the boys recover after the recent criticism of their Leeds and Reading performances in the UK? We reckon so. Here’s hoping they’re on form in the capital.

Yas Arena, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, Dhs150, Dhs350 to Dhs450 with hotel stay. Tel: (02) 5098000 www.thinkflash.ae

BRYAN ADAMS AMBER LOUNGE You’ll do well to bag one of the few remaining tickets, either for the opening Friday night or the closing Sunday evening, but if you do, expect to be in amongst the stars. Aerosmith's Steve Tyler and Hollywood actress Neve Campbell graced the lounge in 2009. We expect to see more stars this year.

If we can get in.

Nov 12 and 14, Hiltonia Beach Club, Hilton Abu Dhabi, Dhs76,000 for a table of eight. www.amber-lounge.com

SCREENWRITING CLASSES The old adage is that we all have a novel in us. But these days it seems we all have a movie. If you want to persuade the money men that your probing exploration of the effects of the financial crisis on a family of camels is a winner, you’ll need some help.

Sign up to screenwriter David Tully’s (The Witching Hour) four-week course and maybe you’ll see your film in the cinema one day.

Nov 27, SAE Institute Dubai. Tel: (04) 3616173 www.dubai.sae.edu

Dec 17 All we want for Christmas is 1980s musical legends, apparently. With Guns N’ Roses set to play Yas Island in December, rocker Bryan Adams has also decided to stop off during his world tour.

Dec 17, Dubai World Trade Centre Arena, Dubai, from 7pm, Dhs250 to 500.

Tel: (04) 3913460 Find us at www.facebook.com/WhatsOnDubai

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 15

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ILLUSTRATIONS: LINDA COULTER

The magnificent Sevens As the hot-potch fleet of vehicles cruises up the Al Ain Road, luxury coaches breezing past rickety old mini-buses and gleaming 4x4s burning off the stretch limos and taxis, it is one of the strangest migrations out of the city that Dubai ever sees.

But, then, the Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens is no ordinary event. It is not only an annual glimpse of top-class sport at its best, but also a multicultural, multifaceted festival that brings together every class of humanity.

From the oval-ball fanatics to the oil barons; from networking banking execs to awe-struck young families; and from ladies who normally do lunch to excitable teenagers seeking a new thrill. The Sevens is just unique.

From December 2 to 4, all are welcome at the The Sevens stadium, the purpose-built arena which is likely to fill its 50,000 capacity on every day of the 72-hour extravaganza. And learning the words of the choruses of Sweet Caroline, We Will Rock You and maybe a bit of The Proclaimers is an absolute must if you want to feel at home amid the raucous masses.

Do not be afraid to improvise, either.

Brandishing inflatable Springboks is a favourite pastime for some South Africa fans.

And it might get you noticed around the world, too. The 2009/10 series was broadcast to 141 countries across six continents.

However, the muscle-flexing, fleet-footed players will get down to the serious business.

Like those from Samoa, the reigning Sevens champions, New Zealand, the recent Commonwealth Games gold-medal winners in Delhi, and England, who always enjoy huge support here.

All the spectators have to do is choose their favoured mode of transport for the journey. Book it now. Be there... or be severely square.

7...

Things that make Sevens special

1) They only play seven minutes each way...

2) Except in the final where the halves last TEN minutes.

3) During the knock-out stages, drawn matches are resolved by playing five minutes extra time.

NUMBER OF TOURNAMENTS THAT COMPRISE THE IRB WORLD SEVENS SERIES

4) All kicks at goal, including penalties and conversions, must be drop goals.

5) Players who receive yellow cards are 'sin binned' for two minutes.

6) Sides can name five substitutes, three of whom can take the field.

7) And if the game’s still undecided, the teams play five minutes of sudden death extra time – which is to say, the first team that scores wins.

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 17

DUBAI RUGBY 7S With the abbreviated version of rugby union returning to the UAE this December, What’s On shows you the players to watch, the places to celebrate and remembers some great moments in the sport

7…

Players to watch this year MIKAELE PESAMINO The Samoan try machine was one of the main reasons the Islanders claimed their first World Sevens title last season.

LUKE MORAHAN After eons in the sevens doldrums, the Wallabies are back in the running thanks to young talents such as Robbie Coleman and Luke Morahan.

TOMASI CAMA He shares his name and his flair with his Fijian legend father. However, Cama’s carving out a major name for himself in All Black colours.

DJ FORBES There’s a reason New Zealand start every IRB Sevens season as favourite for the overall title: it’s because of quality players like Derek 'DJ' Forbes.

RHYS WEBB A scrum-half with pace and guile in equal measure, Webb played a pivotal role in Wales’ shock World Cup Sevens victory in Dubai in 2009.

GETTY/GALLO IMAGES

ISOA DAMU Fijian-born but playing in England’s colours, the pride of the British Army is one of the most dominating forwards in the game today.

BEN GOLLINGS Described as the 'Sachin Tendulkar of sevens' during the Delhi Commonwealth Games, you can expect the England ace to add to his world record points total.

THE WORLD RECORD NUMBER OF POINTS SCORED

BY ENGLAND’S BEN GOLLINGS 18 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

DUBAI RUGBY 7S

7...

Sevens legends JONAH LOMU Long before he ran over Mike Catt, 'The Whale' cut his teeth on the short game, running in tries and demolishing opponents while still in his late teens.

ANDY RIPLEY The lanky number eight played on the wing during England’s inaugural World Cup Sevens victory in 1973. His death this year was felt by all rugby fans.

ERIC RUSH He played his 15-a-side rugby on the wing, but the appropriately named Eric was a key member of the All Blacks’ sevens’ pack for well over a decade.

DAVID CAMPESE OK, so he’s utterly unbearable, but the last time the Wallabies were a real force in rugby sevens was when Campo was still in the squad.

WAISALE SERVEI The Fijian wizard guided his team to any number of titles, including the Sevens World Cup in 2003.

Continued to weave his spell well into his late 30s.

ANDREW HARRIMAN A Nigerian prince with an Olympic sprinter’s speed, Harriman carved up the opposition to see England to unexpected World Cup Sevens success in 1999.

RUPENI CAUCAUIBUCA A prop forward with the speed and grace of a gazelle. The only thing harder than stopping this Fijian monster is pronouncing his surname.

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Great moments in rugby sevens PAIN-ER SCULLY When diminutive England scrum-half Dave Scully faced off against Fijian giant Mesake Rasari, few gave him much chance of survival. The dump tackle that followed was voted 'Moment of the Tournament'.

CYRMU FOR THE CUP The Celtic nations have had a pretty rough time on the World Sevens circuit but at the Dubai World Cup in 2009, there was no stopping the indomitable Dragons.

AUSSIE! AUSSIE! AUSSIE! OH! OH! OH! The Wallabies arrived at the 1999 World Cup with a team boasting the mighty David Campese and Michael Lynagh. And promptly lost to Tonga!

GLORIOUS MUD In 1992, the international home of sevens was turned into a quagmire by torrential rain. Not that this stopped Fiji running rings around the red-hot favourites from New Zealand.

KENYA KICK IT At the 2009 Adelaide Sevens, Kenya – so long sevens whipping boys – made it all the way to the final. The minnows have since become one of the most dangerous sides on the circuit.

7...

Essentials for the sevens HAT’S MORE LIKE IT It’s bound to be boiling so cover your head or else the only thing you’ll have to show for your day out is a strong dose of sunstroke.

CREAM OF THE CROP And while you’re about it, take some sun block, unless you intend to get so red that you’ll have no choice but to support the Celtic countries.

THE UNSURE THING Yes, we all want to see our side win, but the nature of rugby sevens means nothing’s ever certain. Go hoping for success, not expecting it.

WE HAVEN’T GOT BOOS FOR YOU? The Sevens is one of the last places where the Corinthian spirit still thrives, so don’t ruin everything by heckling the ref/the Welsh/your mates, etc.

UAE FOR ME! Whoever else you’re backing, be sure to get behind the boys from the Arabian Gulf. If it wasn’t for them, the Dubai tournament might not even exist.

THINK BEFORE YOU DRINK Don’t worry: the bars won’t run out of beer. Be sure to pace yourself, otherwise you’ll be toddling home before the Plate final.

‘THE OLYMPICS OF RUGBY’ That’s how a New Guinea player once described sevens. Approach the tournament with that attitude and you’ll have a great day, regardless who wins.

A LEAGUE OF THEIR OWN When rugby league team Wigan were invited to participate in the 1996 Middlesex Sevens, few gave them a chance of winning. Naturally they destroyed everything in their path.

THE WORLD RECORD NUMBER OF TRIES SCORED

BY ARGENTINA’S SANTIAGO GOMEZ CORA

WHERE THERE’S A WILL...

England captain Will Carling was all set to score in the 1990 final of the Middlesex Sevens when he was picked up in the in-goal area and dumped into touch.

NUMBER OF TRIES SCORED

BY SAMOA’S MIKAELE PESAMINO LAST SEASON NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 19

Season open.

Game on.

For reservations, please call 04 405 2703.

Shangri-La Hotel, Dubai, Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O. Box 75880, Dubai, U.A.E.

Only at Shangri-La

Down to business England’s head coach Ben Ryan reveals to What’s On why his lads are here for glory, not a party There will be many bizarre sights to see – by day and night – when the Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens hits town. Some hilarious, some not. But do not expect any England player to be involved in the off-thepitch fun and frolics.

Ben Ryan, the England head coach, runs a tight ship with high jinks – especially of the nocturnal variety – not on his agenda. It is highly unlikely that the Irish Village will receive an after-dark visit from any member of his 12-man squad.

Ryan, 39, is not a killjoy. Far from it. He appreciates the value of down time during the frenetic two-day senior tournament and, as a former player, readily recognises the need for rest and recuperation.

Yet as sevens rugby has progressed from merely an ugly sister of the traditional 15-aside game to an attractive and full-time sport in its own right, there is little room for extracurricular activities.

“When one player does the wrong thing, it’s like an advanced rash,” Ryan said. “You just can’t stop it. There’s no curfews, I’m not like that, but there are rules and the guys have got to adhere to them. And they do. They’re a very good bunch.

“I don’t know, in my playing days, if I could have been as professional as some of my 20-year-olds are now. It might be a party atmosphere in Dubai, but we won’t be there to party. We’ve got a job to do.

“It’s going to be a dry fortnight for us.

Going out for a few beers just doesn’t feel right. You can’t go out into the early hours and expect to perform the next day. It just doesn’t work like that.”

Even if England should win the event – the first leg of the 2010/11 HSBC Sevens World Series for the first time since 2005, the celebrations will be low-key, too. A sore head is not the best way to prepare for an earlymorning flight to Cape Town the next day,

en route to the second leg in George, South Africa.

Still, Ben Gollings, the England captain and sevens points-scoring legend, and his colleagues should get some R&R at a midweek barbecue that is also likely to be attended by the South Africa team. “It’ll be a nice social get-together,” Ryan observed. “But we’ll still knock six bells out of each other when we get on the pitch!”

An indication of how seriously the Rugby Football Union in England now treats sevens can be gauged by it awarding central contracts to eight players, including Gollings.

It eliminates the club-versus-country dilemma that Ryan and Mike Friday, his predecessor, often faced. Ryan now has first call on his players.

And an indication of Ryan’s passion for the sport can be gauged by the angst frequently etched across his face when he conducts his post-match interviews, especially if England have performed poorly or have been on the wrong end of a contentious decision. He lives every bone-crunching tackle and try-scoring scamper along the touchline.

Mind you, he did see the funny side of things when, playing for Cambridge University in the Varsity match at Twickenham, he was tackled by a spectator

TEAMS WHO’LL CONTEST THIS YEAR’S TOURNAMENT IN DUBAI

DUBAI RUGBY 7S

dressed as a Viking. “The horn on his helmet gave me a pretty dead leg!” he said.

And he is quick to accept the eye-catching sexiness of sevens to the rugby womenfolk around the world. “Yes, the players are mostly good-looking lads and all are in good shape,” Ryan conceded with a chuckle. “And, yes, they do run around in such tight-fitting kit.”

Ryan’s eyes are on success with England.

To better the disappointing fifth-place finish in the World Series last season; to get over the dismay of narrowly losing out on a bronze medal when finishing fourth in the Commonwealth Games in Delhi; and to prepare for the Olympic Games debut of sevens in London in 2012.

With an essentially young and now settled squad, victory in Dubai could prove a small stepping stone. “We were a bit depressed in Delhi, a bit down,” Ryan revealed. “We all felt that we wanted to get to Dubai straight away.

We were already salivating about the prospect of going.

“I do love the place, the whole event. We get phenomenal support from the huge expat community, it’s almost like being at home, and the stadium will be rocking for the big games. All of that spurs us on. We’ve worked really hard to get where we are and we’re just seeing the fruits. We want to win in Dubai, we want to win the World Series.”

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 21

DUBAI RUGBY 7S

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Post-pitch parties CHI Billed as the unofficial sevens after-party, free buses will travel from The Sevens to vast, multiroomed Chi, where resident DJs will be playing the best of 80s and 90s tunes. Indie, house and R&B will be pumping out of Chi’s other rooms, while fancy dress is not only welcome, but positively encouraged.

If it was a team, it would be: The United States – Big, brash and ultimately a bit cheesy.

Al Nasr Leisureland, Oud Metha, Dubai.

Tel: (04) 3379470 BARASTI Rammed with fans sporting rugby jerseys from across the globe, Barasti is the place to be seen during the sevens tournament. The Pacific Island themed bar is right on the beach at the Le Méridien Mina Seyahi hotel and free buses will run there from the stadium.

If it was a team, it would be: Samoa – Polynesian hospitality by the beach.

Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina, Al Sufouh Road, Dubai Marina, Dubai.

Tel: (04) 3993333 DOUBLE DECKERS Red phone boxes and coats of armour adorn the walls of Britthemed pub Double Deckers, based in the Al Murooj Rotana. With cheap drink deals and great music, Double Deckers is an English expats home from home and the ideal place to celebrate, or commiserate, the team’s performance in this year’s sevens tournament.

If it was a team, it would be: England – A slice of Blighty in Dubai Al Murooj Rotana, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai.

Tel: (04) 3211111 ROCK BOTTOM Not only popular with fans, the Regent’s Palace hotel, where Rock Bottom is based, is also a favourite with the big international teams travelling over to play in the sevens.

With the usual line-up of karaoke and DJs on Friday, as well as a live band on the Saturday, playing all your favourite sevens anthems, Rock Bottom is the perfect party place for after the rugby action. Just go easy on the bullfrogs.

If it was a team, it would be: Wales – Tonnes of fun and a song is never too far away Regent Palace Hotel, Trade Centre Road, Bur Dubai, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3963888 22 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

AUSSIE LEGENDS A haven for sport and antipodean spirit, Aussie Legends is on the ground floor of the Rydges Plaza hotel and is everything you would expect from an authentic Australian bar. With a number of imported lagers and sport playing on its numerous big screens, Aussie Legends is great for a post-sevens boogie.

If it was a team, it would be: Australia – Get your Down Under fix at Aussie Legends.

Rydges Plaza Dubai, Al Diyafah Street, Satwa, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3982222 NEZESAUSSI Nezesaussi is a sports fan’s heaven, located in the Al Manzil hotel in Old Town. Full of TV screens, rugby memorabilia with a fantastic range of southern hemisphere inspired food on its menu, Nezesaussi is a great option to continue the sevens party, but it is a great place to start, too. The bar will be laying on special breakfasts before the tournament starts and will offer free buses to the ground.

If it was a team, it would be: South Africa/ New Zealand/Australia – A shrine to tri-nations rugby.

Al Manzil Hotel, Downtown, Dubai.

Tel: (04) 4285888

POINTS ON OFFER TO DUBAI’S WINNING TEAM

IRISH VILLAGE If it wasn’t for the Middle Eastern heat, you could be mistaken for thinking you were in a corner of Dublin in this cosy Irish themed pub and beer garden. After a frantic day of rugby action, grab a Guinness, treat yourself to a hearty bowl of Irish stew and soak up the craic.

If it was a team, it would be: Ireland – The closest thing the Emirates has to the Emerald Isle.

Aviation Club, Garhoud, Dubai. Tel: (04) 2824750 Dec 2 to 4, The Sevens, Al Ain Road, Dubai Thurs free, Fri Dhs170, Sat Dhs230, season ticket Dhs300. www.dubairugby7s.com

CAREER POINTS SCORED BY FIJIAN SEVENS LEGEND WAISALE SEREVI

Oh we do like to be by the seaside, at a swim-up bar and snoozing under a palm tree. Slap on the factor 15, here’s our pick of the best beach clubs the UAE has to offer

DUBAI’S BEST BEACH CLUBS

Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort

WHERE? LE MÉRIDIEN MINA SEYAHI BEACH RESORT Feel like you’re on holiday in the heart of the city with a day at one of Dubai’s best-loved shore-side hotels. Home to Barasti, the city’s largest private beach, five outdoor pools, 14 restaurants, massive grounds and a huge range of water sports, this is an obvious pick for wiling away a day catching rays.

WHAT’S INCLUDED? In addition to the beach and pools, you’re guaranteed a sunbed, umbrella and towels.

Children can get involved in the Penguin Club where they can try snorkelling, soft play, jewellery making and movies. Meanwhile, adults can hit the beach for activities including kayaking (Dhs40 for 30 minutes), waterskiing (Dhs150 for 15 minutes) and lasers (Dhs140 for an hour).

HOW MUCH? Dhs175 or Dhs100 for children on weekdays, and Dhs250 or Dhs150 for children at weekends. Under-fours are free.

DETAILS Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort, Dubai Marina, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3993333. www.starwoodhotels.com 26 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

WHERE? LE ROYAL MÉRIDIEN BEACH RESORT & SPA Maya, the upmarket Mexican restaurant at this beachfront beauty, has topped our brunch Hot List and now the weather is cooler we think it’s time to rediscover its charms.

WHAT’S INCLUDED? On Fridays from 10am to 6pm you’ll get access to three swimming pools and the beach, then enjoy lunch from Maya on the terrace from 1pm to 4pm, while a live DJ and Mariachi band provides the soundtrack.

There’s 30 per cent discount on drinks, too.

HOW MUCH? Dhs300 for the day, including lunch.

DETAILS Le Royal Méridien Beach Resort & Spa, Dubai Marina, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3165550

The Cove Rotana

DUBAI’S BEST BEACH CLUBS

WHERE? THE COVE ROTANA, RAS AL KHAIMAH

WHERE? JEBEL ALI GOLF RESORT & SPA

It’s a village-style resort built into a hillside overlooking the sea, with villa accommodation boasting private pools. It’s well worth a stay, but it’s only an hour’s drive from Dubai and offers a quiet day in the sun if that’s all you’re after.

WHAT’S INCLUDED? There are two packages. The Beach Day pass gets you access to the 600m beach and two infinity pools, a voucher (for Dhs50 at weekends or Dhs30 on weekdays) to spend on massage treatments or food and drink at the resort. The other option is the Swim & Dine offer, which includes a huge lunch buffet at international restaurant Cinnamon, then all-day use of the pools and beach. Towels are included, but you’ll have to get there early for sunbeds and umbrellas. Watersports are available at extra cost and there are a number of dining options from beach bars to Basilico, a rather smart Italian with a lovely terrace.

HOW MUCH? Beach Day pass is Dhs150 at weekends or Dhs100 during the week, while Swim & Dine costs Dhs220 at weekends, Dhs175 on weekdays and Dhs100 for under-12s.

DETAILS The Cove Rotana, Ras Al Khaimah.

Tel: (07) 2066000. www.rotana.com

This grassy spot is a long-time expat favourite, but a recent renovation means it’s pulling in new additions, too. Truly familyfriendly, it’s 15 minutes from Dubai Marina and a world away from the skyscraper scene.

WHAT’S INCLUDED? Your day pass gets you access to the gardens, 800m of private beach, three pools and 15 restaurants. You’ll get towels, sunbeds and umbrellas for lounging, plus water polo, beach volleyball and football if you’re feeling a bit active. Children are the real winners here though, with three to 12 year olds getting access to the supervised CoolZone which offers free activities from face painting to fish feeding for younger ones to PS3 challenges and water sports for over-sixes.

HOW MUCH? Weekdays cost Dhs180 per person, weekends Dhs220 and you can pay Dhs300 for access plus a barbecue lunch.

DETAILS Jebel Ali Golf Resort & Spa, Dubai.

Tel: (04) 8145555. www.jebelali-international.com

Le Méridien Al Aqah Beach Resort

WHERE? LE MÉRIDIEN AL AQAH BEACH RESORT, FUJAIRAH

A must-do mini-break, this hotel’s pool is either a tranquil retreat or party zone, depending on the day. Live music, giant frozen cocktails, a swim-up bar, day trips and cracking poolside cuisine create a daylong staycation to remember.

WHAT’S INCLUDED? The hotel’s Day Out package gives you access to the huge pool and lengthy beach, plus loungers and towels. On Fridays you’ll also get a buffet lunch. Adults can get involved in free activities including water volleyball, beach volleyball, and aqua aerobics, while children are welcome at the Penguin Club, where they can try pizza making, T-shirt painting and visit the mini zoo to see the rabbits. Water sports are also available at additional costs, with a full-day Discover Scuba course priced at Dhs550, boat trips to Musandam for Dhs300 and snorkelling session for Dhs150.

HOW MUCH? Dhs100 on weekdays and Dhs50 for children aged six to 12. Under sixes get free pool and beach access but will be charged Dhs50 for the Penguin Club. On Fridays you can pay Dhs199 for pool access and buffet lunch. Bargain.

DETAILS: Le Méridien Al Aqah Beach Resort, Fujairah. Tel: (09) 2449000. www.starwoodhotels.com NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 27

DUBAI’S BEST BEACH CLUBS

Habtoor Grand Resort & Spa

One&Only Royal Mirage

28 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

WHERE? HABTOOR GRAND RESORT & SPA

WHERE? ONE&ONLY ROYAL MIRAGE

At the heart of Dubai Marina, the five-star Habtoor Grand has had a resurgence of late, with the Horizon pool bar attracting low-key revellers and party people packing out the Friday brunch at The Grand Grill. It’s in the perfect spot for a day of lazing, a quick change then hitting up some nearby bars with your new suntan.

WHAT’S INCLUDED? You’ll get access to the large private beach, two pools and landscaped gardens, plus towels, sun loungers and umbrellas. Activities such as beach volleyball and football kick-off during cooler afternoons, and there’s also water sports available at extra cost, including 20 minutes of waterskiing for Dhs200, parasailing for Dhs250 and an hour of kayaking for Dhs50.

HOW MUCH? Weekends (Thursday to Saturday) and public holidays cost Dhs175 and Dhs125 for children, or Dhs150 and Dhs100 for children during the week.

DETAILS Habtoor Grand Resort & Spa, Dubai Marina, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3995000. www. grandjumeirah.habtoorhotels.com

Surely one of the most stunning hotels in Dubai, the One&Only is an Arabian style tribute to luxury. Designed for the winter months, many of it restaurants come to life when the cooler weather starts, with Beach Bar & Grill and Eauzone becoming hot property. For a taste of the good life, pay for a day pass and pull up a lounger. They even clean your sunglasses, for Pete’s sake.

WHAT’S INCLUDED? You’ll get access to the pool and beach facilities at both The Palace and Arabian Court from 6.30am to 7pm, sunbeds, showers, towels and water. Children can enjoy the playgrounds, while the grown-ups can turn their hand to snorkelling, sailing and more at the boathouse at additional cost.

HOW MUCH? It’s not cheap at Dhs250 per person when you book ahead, or Dhs300 for walk-in guests. Children between three and 11 years of age are charged at Dhs175, with underthrees free.

DETAILS One&Only Royal Mirage, Dubai Marina, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3999999. www.royalmirage.oneandonlyresorts.com

DUBAI’S BEST BEACH CLUBS Sheraton Jumeirah Beach Resort

WHERE? WHERE? SHERATON JUMEIRAH HILTON DUBAI BEACH RESORT JUMEIRAH Situated at the end of The Walk at JBR, the Sheraton is a little more peaceful than other beachside offerings. Boasting a wide, palm-lined beach, lush gardens and plenty of activities, this is a family-friendly choice for a day in the sun.

WHAT’S INCLUDED? Children are well catered for, with story telling, Wii, arts, crafts and movies all going on. Outside, you’ll be able to use the pools and beach, with sun loungers and towels thrown in. The weekly entertainment schedule offers a swimming clinic, water sports and sand castle building so call ahead to see what’s happening.

HOW MUCH? It’s a mere Dhs100 during the week, or Dhs60 for those aged between five and 16. Come the weekend, it will set you back Dhs180 or Dhs100 for children.

DETAILS Sheraton Jumeirah Beach Resort, Dubai Marina, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3995533. www.starwoodhotels.com

Wavebreaker’s is a What’s On favourite for a sandwich in the sun, or beer on the deck while watching the sunset. The only place at the Hilton we love more is the swim-up bar, cocktail in hand. Oh happy days.

WHAT’S INCLUDED? That swim-up bar is all yours as part of the pool pass. You’ll also be able to use the gardens, private beach, get towels, loungers and umbrellas and have access to the hotel’s many restaurants. There’s even a golf buggy that delivers cold drinks, ice creams and shisha up and down the beach. Very civilised indeed. If you’re in the mood for action then a range of water sports are available at an additional cost.

HOW MUCH? Thursday to Saturday a pass will set you back Dhs250, or Dhs180 from Sunday to Wednesday. Access for children costs Dhs95 throughout the week.

DETAILS Hilton Dubai Jumeirah, Dubai Marina, Dubai.

Tel: (04) 3991111. www.hilton.com

HATTA (CHLORINATED) POOLS Hatta Fort Hotel might not have a beach, but the stunning views of the mountains and a bargain pool day deal might steal you away from the sands. From Saturday to Thursday, pool access costs Dhs50 (or Dhs30 for children), while the weekends will set you back Dhs90 and Dhs50 for junior sun seekers. Included in the price are umbrellas, lockers, changing room access, cold towels, fruit, children’s games and use of the two temperature controlled pools from 9am to 6pm.

Hatta Fort Hotel, Hatta. Tel: (04) 8099333. www.jebelali-international.com

Hilton Dubai Jumeirah

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 29

DUBAI WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP & RACE TO DUBAI

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Newly crowned Ryder Cup heroes, fresh from their victory in Wales, together with the other 60 best golfers on the European Tour will return to Dubai’s Jumeirah Golf Estates this month to compete for a staggering $15 million in the second instalment of the new Order of Merit Finale. Last year, current World Number Two Lee Westwood produced a majestic four rounds of golf on Greg Norman’s purpose-built Earth course to fend off the challenge from plucky young Irishman Rory McIlroy and win both the inaugural Race To Dubai and the Championship, but this year it is German superstar Martin Kaymer in the driving seat.

It has been a truly sensational 12 months for European golf. After clinging desperately for so long to the coat tails of the US PGA juggernaut, the Tour now boasts the victorious Ryder Cup team, three out of four of this year’s major champions – Martin Kaymer, Graeme McDowell and affable South African Louis Oosthuizen – and Lee Westwood, the new World Number One in waiting. Even if the Race to Dubai has apparently failed in its bid to attract major US stars to take up a joint membership of both tours, there can be no doubt that the new format has helped revitalise a circuit that now visits 26 countries.

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For the chance to see a golden generation of European golfers who have the potential to break all manner of records for the continent.

Nick Faldo and his six major championships remains the benchmark, but there are several young players – not least Kaymer and the precociously talented Rory McIlroy – who have the potential to eclipse the English legend. With both players focusing increasingly on the big tournaments in America, our advice is to make the most of them.

30 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

3'$ $-3$13 (-,$-3 The Dubai World Championship surprised everyone last year. So often these finales fail to match the hype, and the initial omens weren’t promising. Badly affected by the global economic meltdown, the unfinished residential development surrounding the course drew heavy criticism from the UK press, but Jumeirah Golf Estates ultimately staged a superb tournament with a compelling plot and a great champion in Lee Westwood. The novel viewing stations on the course (including the Left Bank bar on the 17th hole) and lively entertainment in the village capped a memorable debut

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Because this is the climax to the entire season, there is so much more to play for than if it were a regular tournament. As well as the tournament purse of $7.5 million, there is a further $7.5 million in bonus cash for those who manage to secure a top 15 spot in the final Race to Dubai standings.

A good week here could literally transform a golfer’s career. And with so many great players near the top of the standings, a tense finish is almost guaranteed.

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Those humanitarian folk at Jumeirah Golf Estates and DP World are offering free entry to spectators for the second year running, ensuring big crowds and a great atmosphere.

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Greg Norman’s Earth course received mixed reviews from the players last year but there is no denying the heavily hyped final four holes provided a worthy stage for the thrilling finish. Rory McIlroy will not have fond memories of the treacherous par 4 16th, while almost everybody struggled with the long, difficult 18th closer. It will be interesting to see if the Tour moves the tee forward on this monster to present the big hitters with the temptation of going for the creek-guarded green in two.

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Having bagged his first major title at the US PGA Championship in August, Kaymer has started to win with, well, Germanic efficiency. The first player since Tiger Woods to win three tournaments in a row is in the form of his life and hot favourite to land the Race to Dubai.

Worksop’s finest should arrive in Dubai as the new World Number One, injury and the on form German Martin Kaymer permitting. It’s been an incredible year for the world’s most consistent player – all that is missing for Westwood is that elusive major trophy.

There must be a lot of pressure on Rory’s shoulders, but the tousle-haired youngster with a lolloping gait makes the game look infuriatingly easy at times.

You will not see a more natural swinger of the club, and it’s incredible to think he’s still only 21.

Flamboyant, fiery and always fashionable, 2010 was the year the Englishman’s golf finally began to shout louder than his outfits. A win at the Accenture Match Play in February and another barnstorming Ryder Cup performance have left Poulter in rude health.

McDowell won the US Open at Pebble Beach in June, but likened that challenge to a friendly round with his dad when compared to the cauldron of noise he faced on the 16th green at last month’s Ryder Cup. where he proved he is one for the big occasion.

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 31

DUBAI WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP & RACE TO DUBAI

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Open champion senstion Louis Oosthuizen As Louis Oosthuizen poses for a photograph, gently cradling the much-coveted Claret Jug that he won at the Open golf championship at St Andrews in Scotland in July, the backdrop is utterly breathtaking.

From the 41st floor of HSBC’s global headquarters at Canary Wharf, there is a stunning view of Central London and its many landmarks, not least the strange twizzle-shaped tower, ‘The Gherkin’.

It is a spectacular skyline not dissimilar to that of Dubai, though on a smaller scale, and, for Oosthuizen, the diminutive and softly spoken South African, a reminder of one his favourite European Tour destinations.

When the Dubai World Championship tees off at Jumeirah Golf Estates this month, Oosthuizen will be in his element.

“Yeah, I love Dubai,” he said, with that familiar and endearing gap-toothed smile.

“And I just love that Abu Dhabi-QatarDubai stretch of tournaments. I always seem to do well on it. Two years ago, I finished second in Abu Dhabi, second in Qatar and, when Rory McIlroy won in Dubai, I finished seventh.

“It’s always a nice stretch to get to because we play quite a bit of golf in South Africa in December and then I’m going to head over to Hawaii for two tournaments there. So I think I’ll be quite nicely played in by then.”

Next season, in January and February, the Gulf schedule also includes a tournament in Bahrain. This season, though, 28-year-old Oosthuizen believes that the climax to the Race To Dubai campaign at Jumeirah could prove a damp squib.

Martin Kaymer, the in-form German, holds a substantial lead over the chasing pack and might prove impossible to peg back. “The way Martin is playing, it’s such a big gap to get to him,” Oosthuizen, who lay in sixth place in the rankings in early October, conceded. “It’s going to be difficult for anyone to catch him. I feel I’m

32 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

a bit too far behind as well.”

That Oosthuizen has fallen off the pace since his startling seven-stroke win in the Open, his first Major success, is in no small part due to an injured left ankle, which he sprained when on an hunting expedition in South Africa. Displaying rather less accuracy than he did at St Andrews, he came a cropper while chasing kudu and oryx.

“I took a bad shot at an oryx and had to get off the truck to go after it,” he recalled. “I saw it but I didn’t have a shot so I ran around the bush then stepped in a pot-hole. Man down!

“I strapped up the ankle and it was fine.

I didn’t feel anything. But when I took everything off two days later, I could see it was more swollen than I thought. It’s been a slow recovery, it’s been very frustrating, but I’m getting there.”

Oosthuizen is due to return in the

WGC-HSBC Champions tournament in Shanghai, China, this month and is also joining the lucrative PGA Tour in the United States, adding to his hectic schedule on the European Tour. It is another life-changing move for the amicable “farm boy” from Mossel Bay on the Western Cape.

“As Open champion, there’s a lot of new responsibilities,” he said. “And all of a sudden, in the little town where I live, everyone knows who you are. You can’t go anywhere some days. But I’m sure that, in a year or so, it’ll all die down. It’s not a bad thing, it’s just a case of getting used to it.”

Nov 19 to 22, Jumeirah Golf Estates, Dubai, free online registration. www. dubaiworldchampionship.com

Making a splash.

Live the moment.

Welcoming guests from 15 November 2010, One&Only The Palm is set to become Dubai’s most intimate new beach resort.

Discover the exquisite low-rise mansions and beach-front villas, where Moorish-Andalusian influences meet chic, contemporary living for a blend of elegance and refinement.

For restaurant reservations at three of Dubai’s latest dining venues, please call + 971 4 440 10 30 or for room reservations and further information, please call + 971 4 440 10 10. oneandonlythepalm.com

The pit stop parties There’s more to F1 than cars. As the capital’s motor sports bonanza returns, so does the series of gigs and concerts that is Yasalam

An intimate evening with…

For anybody who noticed a testosteroneheavy slant to Yasalam’s flagship gigs (Prince, Kanye West and Linkin Park), feminine help is at hand over the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix weekend thanks to an intimate three-night stand at The Yas Hotel.

The soulful tones of Gabrielle (November 12) kick things off, a genuine popstar in her native UK during the 1990s after debut single Dreams hit number one. Recent years haven’t treated her so kindly, though a new studio album is reportedly underway.

Sugababes (November 13) are unrecognisable from the fresh-faced teen girls that in 2000 embarked on the most successful career of any 21st century female act thus far.

It’s more than simply growing up, however: all the original members have since quit.

After parting ways with rapper Jay-Z’s Roc Nation label in March, the new-look trio are working on their next LP. Corinne Bailey Rae (November 14) has courageously risen from the ashes this year, meanwhile, tackling her husband’s death with sophomore album The Sea. Though failing to replicate her multi-million-selling debut record’s success, it did win favour with critics, picking up a Mercury Prize nomination and countless plaudits en route.

Nov 12 to 14, Longitude Bar, The Yas Hotel, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, Dhs800. www.theyashotel.com 34 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

Motormouth self-promoter and, since July, Twitter fiend extraordinaire, Kanye West’s egotistical-slashstrangely self-aware opinions have pebbledashed the media as anticipation builds for new album Fantasy My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy.

These are just an edited handful of his best/worst/bizarre/banal quotes and tweets from recent weeks…

On himself

“I’ve learnt to accept what God has given me, without covering it up with ego.”

On personal hygiene

“At the crib I use really nice napkins instead of paper towels. Got the idea from the YSL bathroom.

Waaaaay nicer.”

Kanye West In terms of building anticipation for album releases, few artists can compete with Chicago’s crown prince of collegiate hip hop, Kanye West. The run-up to latest opus My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy has swiftly become a drama of ludicrous scale acted out to the amusement/entrancement of the entire world wide web. First, a bizarre episode where West earned international column inches after making Steven Holmes, an entirely unknown man from nondescript English city Coventry, the only person he ‘followed’ on Twitter. At time of going to press, West has just posted a supposedly banned version of ’s cover art, My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy’s a crude painting of two naked monsters that, frankly, deserves censoring for artlessness over any obscenity. Such online tomfoolery, alongside various controversial incidents, have threatened to overshadow the fact that West’s music alone is more than worthy of worldwide attention. Consistently evolving over four studio albums to date, 2008 departure 808s & Heartbreak was perhaps his most notable sharp career turn, majoring on Auto-Tune voice effects and often swapping rapping for singing. Headline-making antics continue to keep Kanye West in the limelight, but with a genuinely great back catalogue to call upon, he continues to execute a rare balance between pleasing the masses and his own disparate whims.

“Man, ninjas are kind of cool.

I just don’t know any personally” – Kanye West

“Sometimes I think in the back of my mind (I know that’s redundant) I wonder what Thom Yorke’s doing right now?”

On women

“Please don’t let girls start wearing dark lipstick again. I just think girls need to know that guys don’t really like black lipstick.”

On technology

“For a year and two days now I haven’t had a cell phone to get away from the commercial and pop worlds.”

On women and technology

“Why is [it] so sexy to me when I see [a] girl pull an iPad out her purse?”

On, um, well…

“If baroque and mod had a car crash what would that ambulance look like?”

“Man, ninjas are kind of cool. I just don’t know any personally.”

GETTY IMAGES

Date: November 12

On music

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 35

YASALAM

Prince Date: November 14

Linkin Park

GRAPHEAST

Date: November 13

Ubiquitous on the post-millennium metal scene, it’s difficult to construct a concrete argument against any band – like Linkin Park – who have sold more than 50 million albums. Hybrid Theory was the record that catapulted the Californians to global dominance in 2000, a polished alloy of blunt nu-metal bluster, angst-riddled anger and stadium rock magnitude that ticked all the right boxes for a generation of rebellious teenagers. Led by dual mouthpieces Chester Bennington and Mike Shinoda, the sextet have, to their credit, attempted to refine that template over three studio albums that have followed, toning down rap influences while pushing a sound nearer to American alternative rock. This year’s A Thousand Suns – based around themes involving atomic warfare – even drew comparisons to vanguards of intelligent rock music such as Muse and Radiohead. One facet didn’t alter, though: continuing to shift units against the tide of recession and falling record sales, A Thousand Suns shipped 241,000 copies in the US during its first week on the way to topping the Billboard charts. Mere days before their Yasalam appearance, the inaugural International Linkin Park Underground Summit takes place in London, a mark of the cult of fan devotion that surrounds the band.

36 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

Given the name that his parents bestowed on him, Prince Rogers Nelson was never likely to work in an office. Stardom was the only real option, a route the pocket-sized Minnesota funkrock legend has traversed with hitherto unrivalled flair across his celebrated 30-year career.

Operating for almost all of that time outside the constraints of trends or fads, briefly surmising the 52-year-old’s highs and lows is almost impossible.

Suffice to say, however, that most followers won’t be hanging out for selections from latter-day albums such as this year’s newspaper/magazine covermount freebie 20Ten. The countless classic cuts from his impressive repertoire chiefly hail from earlier years; indeed, many would argue he has never bettered much-heralded 1980s LPs 1999 and Purple Rain. Notching total record sales into a remarkable nine figures, it’s probably only a seeming willingness to out-weird himself that has prevented Prince from doubling or even tripling that figure. But whether as Prince or an unpronounceable squiggle that led flummoxed onlookers to label him The Artist Formerly Known As Prince, he has always known how to pull off live shows equal parts brilliant showmanship, eccentric imagery and timeless songs.

Even by eccentric popstar standards, the man born Prince Rogers Nelson’s career has been defined by especially weird, wonderful and often contrary watermark moments. Here are the top five…

Prince threw a hissy fit earlier this year, killing his website and declaring the information superhighway an outmoded dirt track. At last check, the Internet was struggling on regardless.

his name to 1 Changing 4 Covering Radiohead a symbol Typographers globally endured mild panic in 1993 when Prince switched to an unpronounceable squiggle vaguely resembling a hummingbird’s tongue licking juxtaposed male and female gender symbols. A sly marketing ploy, mind.

2 Giving away albums

Prince has twice handed out latter-day studio albums as national newspaper/magazine covermounts, notably in the UK, with supposed subversive intent. The subtext? Either flagging sales or a genius tax write-off.

the internet 3 Claiming was ‘over’ A prior pioneer of online releases,

Not crazy itself, but the diminutive star was made to look smaller than usual after demanding the removal of YouTube footage showing his live take on Creep. Thom Yorke and co overruled him. Ouch.

to play 5 Refusing 1999 ever again

After wheeling out signature tune 1999 during a Millennium Eve concert, Prince vowed to consign it in the 20th Century. The song proved bigger than the man by 2007, though, reinstating it to his set.

, Yas Arena, Yas November 12 to 14 mission free with ad i, ab Island, Abu Dh www.yasalam.ae F1 race tickets only.

On the Corniche

When Formula One motor racing arrived in Abu Dhabi for the first time last year, the UAE’s long-running spirit of going one bigger, better and more glamorous took over. The associated Yasalam festivities went way beyond the planet’s premier motor sport championship and its legions of devoted petrol-heads its triumphant inaugural run attended by almost half a million people. It was a no brainer, then, that Yasalam would return for 2010, building up to the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix feature race itself on November 14.

This year Yasalam is based around 2009’s three most successful elements: Live On Abu Dhabi Corniche, Live Across The City and after-race concert series Live On Yas Island. With the former two programmes completely free to the public, Yasalam again provides a citywide month of cultural breadth surrounding what would alone represent one of the largest extravaganzas on the region’s calendar.

And the line-up is deservingly stupendous 38 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

for an event resplendent in a name that translates to ‘wow’, boasting something for revellers of all ages.

Live On Abu Dhabi Corniche’s chief attraction comes as worldwide music luminaries light up Beats On The Beach at Al Sahil Beach (November 10 to 13).

Multi-million-selling dancehall king Sean Paul raps up the opening night’s pinnacle, followed 48 hours later by evergreen English pop beauty Sophie Ellis-Bextor, smooth New York rapper Fabolous and Lebanese idol Nancy Ajram. The contrasting talents of enigmatic R&B star Kelis and Lebanese Dabke vocalist Fares Karam close the final evening. In slightly more sedate scenes, the F1 FanZone is open to November 14 with all manner of motor sport-related attractions, driver signings, F1 race screenings, plus extreme sports demonstrations, while Grand Prix images are on display at Abu Dhabi Galleria (to November 14). Beach cinema screenings run to November 2, with South

American-themed activities running over the weekend of the season’s penultimate F1 race, the Brazilian Grand Prix (November 5 to 7).

Live Across The City, meanwhile, continues with an illustrious exhibition of F1 imagery in The Art Of Racing (until November 14), complemented by work from local schoolchildren, and an interactive F1 media zone (until November 14). Between all that, students and professionals alike compete in pedal car modification contest Corniche Beach Customs on November 7.

And the Yas Island fun isn’t entirely exclusive to those with race-day tickets (which gain access to concerts from American megastar triumvirate Kanye West, Linkin Park and Prince, November 12 to 14). There are post-gig after-parties, which will be open to all planned, too. www.yasalam.ae

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ABU DHABI Tel: 02 6745000 AL AIN Tel: 03 7541150 DUBAI: Deira City Center Tel: 04 2953780 Radisson SAS Tel: 04 2229687, Dubai Mall Tel: 04 3399330, Emirates Mall Tel: 04 3412424

curries What’s On and Dubai 92 joined forces to find Dubai’s best curry. And here they are, all 30 of them – from pavement cafés to celeb chefs, we scoured the city and scorched our taste buds in the name of research.

Here come the spice sweats…

1

TAWA MURGH RAYAN CHUTNEY’S 9.5/10

This curry of tender chicken leg GARETH’S PICK in a tomato and onion gravy with black pepper and coriander is cooked on a traditional iron griddle. Rich, complex and delicious, there wasn’t a trace of the sauce left after the testers mopped it up with paratha. Book a table now.

Chutney’s, Mövenpick, Bur Dubai, Dhs56.

Tel: (04) 3104340

2

CHICKEN JALFREZI BRICK LANE 9/10

EDITOR’S PICK

Aimed unashamedly at the Brit curry-loving market, Brick Lane’s chicken jalfrezi packs the right blend of tomatoes and spices to keep Anglophiles and more happy.

We expected a lot, and they delivered, from the first bite of the chunky chicken pieces, to the last bit of spicy sauce. Outstanding.

Brick Lane, Barsha, Dubai, Dhs30. Tel: (04) 3996786. www.bricklanedubai.com 40 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

3

CHICKEN TIKKA MAKHANI MASALA

4

SHAAM SAVERA OPTIONS

9/10

Creamy, garlicky and delicately HELEN’S spiced, this melt in the mouth PICK chicken dish has the subtle smoky flavours of the tandoor oven. Served in a small copper pot, it is comfort food at its subcontinental best.

Masala, Jumeirah Bab al Shams, Dubai, Dhs62.

Tel: (04) 8096100

9/10

CB & GB’S PICK

Don’t be fooled by the appearance of this dish – what looks like limes floating in tomato soup is actually a veggie dish delicious enough to tempt even the most dedicated carnivore, with spinach kofta stuffed with malai paneer cheese in a honey and tomato gravy. Not too spicy, a decent portion size and a sauce perfect for dipping, we’ll be trying this again.

Options by Sanjeev Kapoor, Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai, Dhs50. Tel: (04) 3293293

5

PRAWNS MASALA INDEGO BY VINEET 9/10

Not the cheapest curry in town by any stretch of the imagination, but everything on Bhatia's menu is sublime. Plump prawns poached lightly in sweet coconut milk enlivened by a deft chilli spice. Splash out on this gem.

Indego by Vineet, Grosvenor House, Dubai Marina, Dubai, Dhs190. Tel: (04) 3176000

30 CURRIES: TESTED

6

RESHMI KADAI CAESARS

7

MURGH MAKHANI AMAL/ARMANI

8

BEGUM BAHAR ANTIQUES BAZAAR

8.5/10

Generous pieces of chicken lurk in a creamy sauce, flecked with herbs and full of taste.

We didn’t expect such a strong contender from Caesars (the name fooled us, you see) but the Reshmi Kadai cleverly achieves the balance between mild and invigorating.

Caesars came, saw and conquered.

Caesars, Garhoud Bridge Road, Garhoud, Dubai, Dhs38. Tel: (04) 2821960

8.5/10

High-end Indian from an Italian hotel?

Apparently so. Amal’s chicken tikka dish blends spices, cream, yoghurt, tomato and dried fenugreek leaves to create a smoky classic. It’s expensive, but the restaurant is something of a stunner, which certainly helps.

Amal/Armani, Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, Dubai, Dhs120. Tel: (04) 8883888

8/10

Hidden away in Bur Dubai's Four Points Sheraton, this veritable treasure trove of North Indian cuisine has buckets of charm, paired with authentic, often eclectic, singing and dancing. The chef's special chicken Begum Bahar is somehow at once rich, creamy and spicy with every fork full. It's flavour at its finest, served with cumin rice and a fluffy, buttery garlic naan on the side.

Antiques Bazaar, Four Points by Sheraton, Bur Dubai, Dubai, Dhs55. Tel: (04) 3977444

9

Nalli Patialla – The Bombay

PRAWN MASALA IZ

ISTOCK

15

MUTTON ISHTEW ASHIANA

16

BUTTER CHICKEN THE RUPEE ROOM

17

DHANIYA MURG ASHA’S

7/10

The dark gravy and beautifully cooked lamb of this traditional dish is enough to either put hairs on your chest, or sort out your sinuses. It’s not a light choice, but instead packs a punch with fragrant spices and rich flavours. A hearty dish.

India Palace, Garhoud Bridge Road, Garhoud, Dubai, Dhs35. Tel: (04) 2869600

10

NALLI PATIALA THE BOMBAY 7.5/10

Oft heralded as one of Dubai’s finest curry houses, The Bombay’s lamb shanks certainly do their bit to continue its good name.

Cooked in a rich medium spicy gravy, the good quality meat is tender and boast just enough of the chef’s special home ground masala. A sophisticated curry at a good price indeed.

The Bombay, Marco Polo Hotel, Deira, Dubai, Dhs46. Tel: (04) 2720000

11

BHINDI MASALA ATRIUM

12

MUTTON PALAK RAVI’S

13

GOA PRAWN CURRY MASALA CRAFT

7.5/10

A veggie twist on butter chicken, this curry has a similar sauce mixed with ladies fingers, annatto seeds, tomato, black pepper and cashew nuts, resulting in a new favourite at the What’s On camp.

Atrium, Grand Millennium, TECOM, Dubai, Dhs50. Tel: (04) 4299999

7.5/10

BEST BARGAIN For when you can’t decide 8/10 between meat and veg, A rich, verdant green, coconut-infused sauce this no-frills combination of conceals a generous helping of succulent falling-off-the-bone mutton and swampy prawns in this delectable curry. Cooked spinach-strewn curry sauce is the perfect in front of your eyes while you perch, compromise. A more rustic and traditional salivating at the casual bar dining set up, the melange of meat and vegetation you'll be tantalising wait is worth it when you get a hard pushed to find this side of Peshawar. fresh roti dipped in.

Ravi’s, Satwa Roundabout, Satwa, Dubai, iZ, Grand Hyatt, Dubai, Dhs70. Tel: (04) 3171234 Dhs15. Tel: (04) 3315353

Goa Prawn Curry – Masala Craft

14

MUTTON ROGAN JOSH INDIA PALACE

7/10

This lamb stew in a spicy tomato, onion, cinnamon and mace flavoured sauce is extremely flavourful, with the right amount of spice, resulting in a 'light' but wellbalanced dish. A perfect complement to saffron rice.

Ashiana, Sheraton Dubai Creek, Deira, Dubai, Dhs84. Tel: (04) 2281111

7/10

Our old pal, the butter chicken, made an appearance at The Rupee Room, flanked by a naan bread the size of a double duvet.

While the curry itself wasn’t exactly bursting with taste, the kurmi naan (topped with fresh tomato sauce, spices and cheese) was strong enough to improve the overall meal.

Good teamwork.

The Rupee Room, Marina Walk, Dubai Marina, Dubai, Dhs58. Tel: (04) 3905755

7/10

If we were giving points purely on presentation, Asha’s offering would be a bit further up. A really lovely looking plate of food, this chicken curry is cooked with coriander seed and cashew nut gravy. The level and complexity of spice was good, but the sauce could have been a bit richer.

Asha’s, Wafi, Oud Metha, Dubai, Dhs69.

Tel: (04) 3244100

7/10

A truly authentic Goan curry packed with plump prawns. The sauce might seem a bit flimsy for many, but it does well to play second fiddle to the fresh seafood and is perfect for drenching steamed rice with subtle flavour.

Masala Craft, Aviation Club, Garhoud, Dubai, Dhs65. Tel: (04) 2829626 NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 41

30 CURRIES: TESTED

18

26

LAL MAANS MANVAAR 7/10

If you’re a sensitive type, this hot and heavy lamb dish may prove just a little bit too much.

A fiery stew of tender lamb on the bone filled with Rajasthan chillis and a generous helping of spices, it packs a serious punch. But if you can get past the heat, the smoky taste may just win you over.

Manvaar, Karama, Dubai, Dhs30. Tel: (04) 3368332

19

LAMB PASSANDA BRITISH TANDOOR

20

GOSHT ROGAN JOSH KEBAB KORNER

21

ROGAN JOSH ZAFRAN

7/10

Priding itself on serving British style Indian cuisine, we were expecting a lurid dish the colour of traffic cones. However, this mild curry of tender lamb, creamy yoghurt sauce, almonds and gentle spices gave more of a nod to the subcontinent than expected.

It’s the kind of curry your mum would like.

British Tandoor, Interchange One, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, Dhs50. Tel: (04) 3211778

7/10

We considered deducting points for spelling 'corner' with a K, but a taste of their traditional Kashmiri dish convinced us to play nice. Complex and fragrant, it’s a meaty feast with chunks of lamb in a dark, gingery sauce that made us want to have a satisfied nap afterwards.

Kebab Korner, Highland City Hotel, Bur Dubai, Dubai, Dhs60. Tel: (04) 3938538

7/10

One of Dubai’s newer Indian additions, this Mirdif City Centre hot house serves up a rogan josh in the form of a hulking Australian lamb shank. Slow-cooked in stock, with gravy to pour over and a variation of guacamole on the side, it was unlike any other curry we’ve had. Not one for traditionalists, but very enjoyable all the same.

Zafran, Mirdif City Centre, Mirdif, Dubai, Dhs48.

Tel: (04) 2840987

Rogan Josh – Zafran 42 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

Laal Mass – Claypot

22

LAAL MASS CLAYPOT 6.5/10

A lamb curry that is high on spices and taste, but low on chunks of actual meat. The lamb in question is pretty much left on the bone – which while delicious to taste, does require a lot of chewing and grinding to get at it. All the hard work is worth it though, as this traditional red Rajasthani effort is fantastic with rice or naan breads to soak up the spicy gravy.

Claypot, Citymax Hotel, Al Barsha, Dubai, Dhs30. Tel: (04) 4078066

23

PEPPER CHICKEN THE KEBAB CONNECTION

24

MURGH MAKHANI BOMBAY BY THE BAY

25

SATVIK KOFTA GOVINDA’S

6.5/10

Bit of a head scratcher, this one. What makes a curry a curry? This dish has everything you’d expect – chicken, cream and a kick – but the peppery sauce would be equally at home on the side of a steak. Still, the homemade taste, charred bread and hefty portion means it still does well in the taste test.

The Kebab Connection, Swiss-BelHotel, Al Mina Road, Satwa, Dubai, Dhs55. Tel: (04) 3459992

6/10

Top marks for presentation, this creamy dish consists of boneless tandoor chicken in a tomato sauce flavoured with fenugreek and ginger, all topped with herb butter. Heart attack central. Out taste buds were a little underwhelmed, but this is a decent intro to the world of curry for a newbie.

Bombay by the Bay, Marina Promenade, Dubai Marina, Dubai, Dhs42. Tel: (04) 2328585

6/10

This 100 per cent vegetarian restaurant serves up healthy and holistic fare, but without using onion or garlic. Fear not though, this veggie speciality is still full of flavour with balls of kofta beautifully presented and accompanied with mataji paratha (Dhs6). Not the perfect main meal, but a good shout as a side dish to share.

Govinda’s, behind Regent Palace Hotel, Bur Dubai, Dubai, Dhs26. Tel: (04) 3960088

JHINGA CURRY GHARANA 6/10

We were initially put off this one by its oily appearance, but the smell was too good to ignore and a tentative fork speared a giant prawn. We were sold. Perhaps one to share rather devour alone, this dish is greasy but great.

Gharana, Holiday Inn, Al Barsha, Dubai, Dhs60.

Tel: (04) 3234333

27

MURGH LAHORI GAZEBO 5.5/10

Wow. Not curry as we’ve ever had it before, this North Indian lamb dish is more like a giant plate of pickles. Incredibly sour, if you like mouth wateringly sharp flavours then this is the one for you, but our palates might not be quite ready.

Gazebo, Next to Sharaf DG, Mankhool, Dubai, Dhs33. Tel: (04) 3599713

28

VARUTHARACHATHU HIGHLAND GARDENS

29

CHEMMEEN MANGA COCONUT GROVE

30

TIKKA MASALA DELHI DARBAR

5.5/10

Well, it gets the award for GREAT the trickiest name, but if we VALUE didn’t know it was chicken it could have been an X Files job – case of the unidentified meat. The sauce was actually pretty tasty with a coconutty sweetness, made for butter naan dipping.

Highland Gardens, Garhoud, Dubai, Dhs12.

Tel: (04) 2828979

5/10

This good-looking prawn curry came with a delicious dosa that was a welcome change from parathas. The dish itself, however, was over-spiced and a little heavy handed with the coconut (taking that restaurant name too far), leaving us picking at the dosa instead.

Coconut Grove, Rydges Plaza, Satwa, Dubai, Dhs60. Tel: (04) 3983800

5/10

To prepare this dish, cubes of boneless chicken are marinated in tandoori masala and yoghurt. That is where the juiciness and flavour comes from. They are then grilled and cooked in a butterbased gravy of cashewnut and almonds. Bit too rich for us.

Delhi Darbar, Karama, Dubai, Dhs25. Tel: (04) 334717

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For reservations, please contact: One&Only Royal Mirage +971 4 399 99 99 or info@oneandonlyroyalmirage.ae

FILM The American

Burke And Hare Saw 3D

WHO?

George Clooney, Irina Björklund, Thekla Reuten, Johan Leysen, Paolo Bonacelli, Anton Corbijn (director)

Simon Pegg, Andy Serkis, Isla Fisher, Christopher Lee, Tim Curry, John Landis (director)

Tobin Bell, Carey Elwes, Costas Mandylor, Betsy Russell, Sean Patrick Flanery, Kevin Greutert (director)

TAGLINE

‘From the director of Control’

‘No job too small. No body too big. No questions asked’

‘In eye-popping 3D’

ONCE UPON A TIME...

Veteran assassin Jack (Clooney) decided to call it a day, just as soon as he polished off one last assignment in Italy.

Williams Burke and Hare (Pegg and Serkis), who made a living selling corpses to Edinburgh’s medical schools, discovered they could become really rich by bumping people off instead of simply grave robbing.

Survivors of Jigsaw’s demented genius met up with self-help guru Bobby Dagen (Flanery), unaware that their revelations would spark off a new cycle of horror.

IDEAL IF YOU’RE IN THE MOOD TO...

Watch the most charismatic American actor of his generation do his whole charismatic American thing.

Get behind two blokes all right thinking people would detest.

Watch a sub-par Saw movie in 3D.

WATCH THIS IF YOU LIKE...

Anton Corbijin’s acclaimed debut picture, the Ian Curtis/Joy Division biopic Control, and edgier George Clooney offerings such as The Good German and Confessions Of A Dangerous Mind.

John Landis’ horror classic An American Werewolf In London and Simon Pegg’s bloody superb Shaun Of The Dead.

Saws 1 to VI. It might also appeal to those who got a kick-out of recent 3D horror releases such as Piranha and The Final Destination.

TOP TRIVIA

Before he moved into movies, Anton Corbijn was one of the world’s most celebrated stills photographers.

Pegg’s on-screen wife is played by his Spaced co-star Jessica Hynes (nee Stevenson).

While the other Saw films had relatively short schedules, the use of 3D technology meant this picture took almost half a year to complete.

WHAT’S ON TEN WORD REVIEW

Not classic Clooney, but you have to admire his ambition.

A film crying out to be described as dead funny.

The appeal of Jigsaw remains a puzzle.

RATE OR SLATE?

★★★✩✩

★★★★✩

★★✩✩✩

44 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

FILM | NEW RELEASES

Jackass 3-D

The Hole

Khatta Meetha The Death And Life Of Charlie St Cloud

Johnny Knoxville, Bam Margera, Steve-O, Chris Pontius, Jason “Wee Man” Acuña, Jeff Tremaine (director)

Chris Massoglia, Nathan Gamble, Teri Polo, Bruce Dern, Chelsea Ricketts, Joe Dante (director)

Akshay Kumar, Trisha Krishnan, Rajpal Yadav, Johnny Lever, Urvashi Sharma, Priyadarshan (writer-director)

Zac Efron, Charlie Tahan, Amanda Crew, Donal Logue, Kim Basinger, Burr Steers (director)

‘They’re back. In 3D’

‘What are you so afraid of?’

‘From the director of Bhool Bhulaiyaa’

‘Life is for living’

Johnny Knoxville and his brave/ incredibly stupid band decided it was time to perform a new set of inspired/insane stunts.

Teenage brothers Dane and Nathan (Massoglia and Gamble) found a hole in their basement leading to a place where they must confront their worst fears.

Ambitious road builder Sachin Tichkule (Kumar) found his dreams crushed at every turn by corrupt Indian bureaucrats.

Charlie St Cloud (Efron) was left distraught by the death of his younger brother, only for a new love and the spirit of his late sibling to provide his life with fresh purpose.

Watch grown men demonstrate that they really don’t know better.

Watch a couple of contemporary kids have the bejesus scared out of them. Which if you’ve just been cut up by one of them on his poncey scooter, could prove a genuine delight.

See the Bollywood equivalent of The Full Monty or Brassed Off: pictures that aim to entertain but contain powerful political messages.

See Zac Efron take another step along the road from teen stardom to sophisticated movie actor.

The earlier films, the first of which saw the boys patrol Tokyo in panda suits while the second featured Johnny Knoxville being rundown by a yak while blindfolded.

Joe Dante’s excellent kids ‘n’ horror combos Gremlins, The ‘Burbs and, er, Gremlins 2: The New Batch.

Above-average rom-coms, and are interested in seeing what such films would be like if they came with lots of dancing and any number of show-stopping tunes.

The sort of films you have to watch through teary eyes.

Bam Margera was attacked by a woman with a baseball bat during shooting. The assault left the skateboarder with bleeding on the brain.

Be sure to stay for the unnerving post-credits sequence.

Massive Bollywood star Akshay Kumar started out life as a waiter in a Bangkok restaurant.

Since filming, Zac Efron has grown a full beard and moustache. It looks rubbish.

Genius to some, boorish idiocy to others.

This month’s third 3D offering’s the pick of the bunch.

It’s unsubtle, but there’s no denying it’s fun.

Efron’s good, but this wellintentioned film is waterlogged.

★★★✩✩

★★★★✩

★★★✩✩

★★✩✩✩

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 45

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www.luluhypermarket.com

With 83 branches in easy-to-reach locations and award winning customer service catering to over 410,000 shoppers a day, no wonder the world comes to shop at LuLu.

ABU DHABI

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EATING OUT How many curries does it take to floor a journo? Nope, it’s not a joke.

Curry is an extremely serious matter indeed. For three days straight we tested red curries, yellow curries, brown curries, veggie curries, lamb curries, chicken curries, naans, popadums – the lot – so you, dear reader, know where to go to indulge in the best examples of this classic Indian dish (p40). And as if that weren’t enough, we also visited the renamed Indego by Vineet to sample the Michelin starred chef’s new menu and took a cooking master class with Vineet Bhatia himself (p52). You can also enjoy our verdict on our new favourite restaurant La Petite Maison (p48) and the new menu at Emirates Palace’s Sayad (p51), plus we have little chat with celeb chef Gordon Ramsay (p55), the UAE’s newest brunches (p59), The Critic on growing and catching your own dinner (p62) and a Saffa barbecue (braai) at Dubai’s Els Club (p63). Now eat it all up like good little readers and we’ll let you stay up to read the Arts section. The answer, by the way is, 30.

NOBU

Gareth Rees, Features Editor

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 47

EATING OUT

On the menu A tasty trio of newsy nibbles BUILD YOUR OWN It’s not often we’d be advising you to visit an 'all day dining' restaurant, they tend to be a little on the dull side, but Al Manzil Hotel’s Conservatory has launched a new menu concept – and, as we discovered recently, produces some rather good burgers (try the lamb and be prepared to get messy). You are encouraged to chat with the chefs, who will then create bespoke dishes based on those featured on the new lunch and dinner menu. There’s also a salad bar and live cooking stations. And Pierre Gagnaire-trained chef Antoine Christian is overseeing it all.

Al Manzil Hotel, Downtown, Dubai. Tel: (04) 4285923. www. southernsunme.com/almanzil ROCOCO TREATS November 14 marks the start of an Italian Festival at Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach and Rococo chef Enzo Neri has a few surprises in store for us. The Italian chef has launched a special three-course set menu available for Dhs195 and will prepare dishes using a different Italian seasonal ingredient (pears, chestnuts, aubergine, raspberry) each week until December 4. There will also be cooking classes, (Nov 10 and 29), where you can learn to cook with chef Neri in the kitchen.

Rococo, Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach, The Walk, JBR, Dubai. Tel: (04) 4484860. www.sofitel.com MAMA MIA! Have you ever wondered why Italian men make so much of a fuss about their mamas? Maybe it's fancy tasting Italian cooking just like mama used to make it (and still does, it seems)? To prove this, chef Doretta Calchetti will be preparing a special a la carte menu for lunch and dinner at Grand Hyatt Dubai’s Andiamo restaurant, from November 6 to 11, and holding a cooking class on November 10.

Mamma Doretta promises chicken livers with black olive cream and Bringoli pasta with rabbit. That does it for us.

Nov 6 to 11, Grand Hyatt Dubai, Oud Metha, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3172222. www.dubai.hyatt.com 48 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

La Petite Maison The Dubai branch of LPM becomes an instant classic Probably the easiest way to judge a successful restaurant is by how full it is. Yet a bustling dining room can still be something of a rarity in Dubai, where even the finest restaurants might be far from full, or worse still, empty. There’s nothing more dismal than eating in silence, just the shuffling of the chef ’s restless feet emanating from the dormant kitchen.

Contradictorily, the fuller the restaurant, the more intimate your experience. When all is alive about you, conversation flows. In an empty restaurant, the unfilled space and silence slaps an oppressive hand across your mouths.

La Petite Maison, on only its fourth night, was chock-a-block.

Not just busy – full to the brim.

A visitor to the Emirates would have thought LPM was a Dubai restaurant stalwart, not the new kid on the block, although it soon will be.

Confident door staff, not at all surprised that yet more guests were upon them, guided us past the bar and its pre-meal tipplers, and through an efficient army of waiters swooping from table to table. Moving at lighting speed, they’re recommending a dish to a couple in the corner, delivering several plates to a large table of suits or pouring a glass of wine for a few hipsters coolly nodding their approval of yet another wonderful hors d’oeuvres plate.

You could be in New York or London. The place is alive.

But back to those hors d’oeuvres. LPM promotes a sharing concept, naturally – it’s the best way to eat – shared food guaranteeing a united experience and steady conversation from the off. The waiter will advise you to try three or four dishes, which is plenty, but we ran our taste buds over seven – it pays to be thorough, after all.

The onion tart, a wafer of crisp pastry, smothered with sweet onion and several small slices of anchovy arrive first, quickly followed by a vast creamy cloud of burrata festooned with tomatoes and basil and a magical mix of fishy sardine, sweet grape and tomato. Three carpaccio plates follow suit, all layered with fine slivers of sirloin, marinated salmon with pink peppercorns and fresh scallop, and a bowl of warm prawns sitting gracefully in a mildly peppery puddle of olive oil. We couldn’t find fault with any of these uncomplicated but delightful dishes.

A supple meaty hunk of turbot was given a homely heft, baked and served in a petite cassoulet with white wine, olive oil and a handful of soft and gorgeously vinegary artichokes. But the dish de la nuit consisted of several juicy lamb cutlets, the exterior sticky and charred from the grill, the flesh below magnificently pink.

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A small rowboat of classic vanilla crème brulée was faultless and a tart, naughtily named summer berry froth with a milky yoghurt ice cream and several crisp vanilla nuggets of doughnut was jolly, but the cheesecake… The cheesecake was the cheesecake to end all cheesecakes. And all meals.

Do we need to tell you to book a table?

Need to know Location: DIFC, Gate Village 8, Dubai Tel: (04) 4390505 Web: www.lpmdubai.ae Open: Sun to Fri noon to 2.30pm and 7pm to 11pm Cuisine type: French (Niçoise) Must eat: grilled lamb cutlets Bill for two: Dhs930 (without alcohol)

In tweet form… Our new favourite restaurant in Dubai. Book a table.

Now. Follow us at WhatsOnDubai and WhatsOnAbuDhabi

What’s On Awards 2010 The people’s choice awards have arrived – voting has closed, you have had your say. But who will those winners be?

The time has come. The reckoning is over. You have cast your votes, either online, via SMS or the old-fashioned nomination cardfilling way. One of you is set to win the grand prize – a fivenight stay at the luxurious Four Seasons Resort in the Maldives, with return flights. But the real winners will be the restaurants that take home one of those coveted What’s On Awards and the honour of hanging a What’s On winner’s plaque outside their people-approved establishment on November 7.

Last year’s big winner was Zuma, which it turned out was not only our favourite Japanese restaurant in Dubai, but yours too. Chef Colin Clague and his team walked off with no fewer than four What’s On Awards. Can they do it again? Or will another restaurant usurp that Favourite Japanese title? One thing is for sure, Zuma can’t win the coveted Best Newcomer award two years

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1/4 AD ALL YOU CAN EAT SUSHI Every Monday from 6pm

CHILLOUT AT THE POOLSIDE Every Thursday from 7pm - 10pm

ALL YOU CAN EAT BBQ & ALL DAY A LA CARTE DINING Every Friday FRID FRIDAY NIGHT LIVE ACOUSTIC GUITAR WITH DANNY SHIRRAN Every Friday from 7pm - 10pm SATURDAY FLOATIN’ FILMS Every Saturday from 7pm

running. Which young prince will be passed the crown by the mighty king Zuma? Who will win Favourite European, Italian or seafood?

The answer is that we don’t know (unless you’re reading this after November 7, that is). That’s the beauty of allowing you, the people, to choose. After all, you’re the ones who pay to eat in these restaurants and you’re the ones we’ve been buying what is now the best-selling entertainment magazine in the UAE for these past 31 years. Without you, neither the magazine, the awards nor many of these restaurants would exist. So thank you.

And goodnight.

NEW HOME-MADE POOLSIDE PIZZA Take - aways are also available

1/4 AD

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 49

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A taste of things to come Three new ways to fill your belly YELLOW LOUNGE What’s On loves to lounge – who doesn’t?

– so we’ve been waiting for the opening of Yellow Lounge since we heard rumour of a champagne bar hitched to French brasserie Rive Gauche some time ago. Now it’s here.

We’re talking hors d’oeuvres, champagne, cocktails, an extensive wine list, music and themed nights. With Red Lounge recently opening at Raffles, we’re thinking the lounge might be a new trend. You heard it here first.

The Address Dubai Marina, Dubai, Mon to Sat 7pm to midnight. Tel: (04) 4367777. www.theaddress.com

Sayad Emirates Palace’s fish restaurant welcomes a new chef and menu There’s an overwhelming sense of calm in Emirates Palace’s Sayad.

Maybe it’s the large aquarium taking up most of the space at the restaurant’s doors, its occupants drifting happily around the tank, or even the soothing shades of aqua of the décor inside, but whatever it is it made us feel, well, calm. Calm and aquatic.

Named, rather aptly, after the Arabic for ‘the fisherman’, Sayad unashamedly takes its cues from the deep, with its cutesy fish-embossed tiles leading to an intimate terrace and impressive views over the marina and out to sea.

Armed with a new menu, as provided by the equally new chef Shaun Anthony, the restaurant is set to take on the abundance of seafood eateries in the capital (including the excellent Nautilus and Finz, to name but two) for the title of king of the sea.

Anthony is no slouch, having learned his trade under the watchful eye of no less than Gordon Ramsay, so the bun fight

(or should that be cod fight?) is most definitely on, and with an impressive array of ocean offerings on his menu, the competition should take notice.

We started with an amusebouche of white anchovy mousse with potato chips, its light dusting of smoked Spanish paprika giving it a spicy edge and setting the tone.

The North Atlantic Ocean trout with white asparagus and almond crumble was off-the-boat fresh; its gentle poaching producing a meltingly tender result, with the crumble adding texture. Followed by smoked haddock veloute with parsnip, quail’s eggs and ratte potato – the haddock’s milky flavour combining with a parsnip purée to give the dish a sweet and earthy feel – it was certainly an impressive start for chef Anthony’s menu.

A main course of halibut with wild mushroom, artichoke and tomato was cooked to perfection; the girolle mushrooms adding to the rustic texture, while the basil

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from the cherry tomatoes and the sherry vinegar foam brought out a surprising richness and acidity.

To end, we ambitiously opted for a lemon tart, although it was always going to be foolhardy manoeuvre, and despite enjoying a bite or two it was quickly game over. Will it be game over for the rest of the capital’s fish restaurants?

It’s certainly seafood for thought.

Need to know Location: Sayad, Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi Tel: (02) 6905643 Web: www.emiratespalace. com Open: 6.30pm to 11.30pm Cuisine type: seafood Must eat: halibut, with wild mushroom, artichoke and tomato Bill for two: Dhs800 (without alcohol)

In tweet form… Abu Dhabi seafood fans take note: Sayad means business Follow us at WhatsOnDubai and WhatsOnAbuDhabi

MAISON SUCRE We’re sure our cupcake feature last month inspired you to rush out and gorge yourself on the dainty delicacies, but if you haven’t had your fill, Maison Sucre, the capital’s newest bakery, will be happy to stuff you to the gills with fluffy sponge and sugary icing. Or, if cupcakes ain’t your thing, there are tarts, pastries and made-to-order cakes.

Corner of Khaleej Al Arabi Street and Zayed the First Street, Khalidiya, Abu Dhabi, Sat to Thurs 9am to 11pm, Fri 10am to 11pm. Tel: (02) 6396622. www.maisonsucreuae.com JAMIE’S ITALIAN Is he coming or isn’t he? Rumours of Jamie Oliver making his Dubai restaurant debut have been doing the rounds for a number of years – the restless, crusading cook has even paid us a visit, but we’re yet to see a real commitment. Until now.

We’ve been promised that a branch of Oliver’s popular Jamie’s Italian (15 UK restaurants and counting) will open at Festival Centre late this month, boasting 290 covers, a pasta bar and a menu brimming with Mediterranean classics. The man himself may even turn up to give it his ‘pukka’ seal of approval.

Wicked, as the Essex chef himself would say.

Festival Centre, Marina Pavilion, Dubai Festival City, Dubai NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 51

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Indego by Vineet

HEF CELEB C L SPECIA

Vineet Bhatia’s new menu reminds us just how unique the chef’s talent is Vineet Bhatia. He’s the chef who made his name in London revolutionising the cooking of his homeland, becoming the first Indian chef to win a coveted Michelin star and going on to open several restaurants around the world – including, in 2005, Indego at Grosvenor House in Dubai.

The restaurant now renamed Indego by Vineet has been the only Indian restaurant in our Hot List from day one. Why? Because nobody does Indian cuisine quite like Vineet Bhatia. It’s not just the wonderful food – plenty of Indian restaurants in the city do wonderful – it’s the thinking behind it. Traditional Indian cooking techniques have been questioned, everything broken down to the barest essentials and reconstructed as works of art – cleaner flavours, fewer but carefully combined spices, elegant presentation, smaller portions.

European élan combined with a depth and complexity of flavour that is unmistakably Indian.

You couldn’t hope to replicate it.

Bhatia is, undoubtedly, a genius.

Now, the great man himself doesn’t captain the good ship Indego, but the dishes are all his and now we have shown we’re ready for Indian fine dining in Dubai, the menu has been refined to reflect the level of cuisine found at Bhatia’s Michelin starred Rasoi in London’s Chelsea.

You can enjoy a six-course tasting menu for a startlingly reasonable Dhs550, but we plunged right into the a la carte.

A well judged crab and lentil soup served with several crab fritters was magnificent, while three hunks of monkfish were coated in a zingy, deep green herb tandoori coating that stirred the palate, preparing the ground for the supple, sleek fish beneath. The best start to a meal one could wish for.

Though the menu proffers numerous biryanis and a handful of sharing plates, the section promising contemporary Indian

is where Bhatia’s mastery is really on show.

We sampled several prawns precisely poached in coconut with a chilli masala edge, which the waiter insisted were the house speciality. It was pretty special, but the two lamb dishes we ordered were astonishingly fine.

Pot-roasted ginger lamb chops – sold, we hear you cry already. We’d just like to add that the chops were flawlessly prepared and the korma spiked with a cheeky hit of truffle oil which got along with the ginger like an old friend. The slow-cooked, tender flesh of the Kashmiri lamb shank distanced itself from the bone without so much as a fork prod and sat there looking at it like

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a stranger. The classic onion and tomato rogan josh, on the other hand, joined it as they strolled serenely down our gullet. Sides of sweet, fresh South Indian vegetable stir-fry, thick Tadka dal and a basket of flawless naans did the trick for two, leaving just enough room for two light desserts.

Chunky strips of pineapple piled high like jenga blocks adorned with sweet spices and pepper, served with a dollop of pineapple sorbet. And a small selection of rose petal, vanilla bean, roasted coconut and almond and mango smoothies.

Some distance from the usual heavy and cloying Indian desserts. All hail Vineet Bhatia.

In tweet form… A new menu from the world’s foremost Indian chef, showing off his consummate and unique skills to the full. Follow us at WhatsOnDubai and WhatsOnAbuDhabi

“Nobody does Indian cuisine quite like Vineet 52 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

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Cooking

by Vineet

Our favourite Indian chef, the multi-Michelin starred Vineet Bhatia, was kind enough to invite us into his kitchen, where we prepared this simple dish that even the clumsiest of cooks could handle.

VINEET ON… …the new name

…Abu Dhabi

…menu changes

Location: Grosvenor House, Dubai Marina, Dubai Tel: (04) 3998888 Web: www. grosvenorhouse-dubai.com Open: Mon to Sat 7pm to midnight Cuisine: Indian Must eat: green herb tandoori monkfish Bill for two: Dhs900 (without alcohol)

Bhatia”

…copycats

I’m very happy with people copying me – it’s the greatest form of flattery, but, obviously, nobody would acknowledge it. It does encourage me to innovate and I always have an ace up my sleeve.

We have a kitchen at home, which is a miniature version of the restaurant kitchen. That’s where it all happens.

When we arrived in Dubai not many people knew who we were or what we were about, so we weren’t confident using the name at that stage. As time has passed all our various restaurants have started to carry the ‘by Vineet’ tag. Now people associate a certain kind of quality with the name. It shows it’s one of ours. Simple as that.

Need to know

a lot more robust. The people who dine here appreciate sophisticated flavours. When you come into a place like Grosvenor House, you expect something grand.

We’re looking at opening up a restaurant in Abu Dhabi in July next year. It will be similar – fine dining – but it’s not finalised.

ASSORTED SEAFOOD IN RAW MANGO CURRY

There’s a slight change with the menu. We’re tilting more towards what we do in London. We’ve contemporised the cuisine a bit more. When we first came here four or five years ago it was slightly different, it had to be tamed because Dubai was a new market. Trying to pitch Indian fine dining was a gamble, which paid off. It was not as elaborate as London. Now it will be more in tune. After this menu change, we will gauge reaction in the next three to four months and I’ll come back in March and make a bigger change. We want to take it to the level that we’re doing things in Europe.

INGREDIENTS 200g cubed hammour fillet, eight pieces scallop meat, 300g lobster chunks, ten shelled and cleaned prawns, one pinch turmeric powder, one tbsp lemon juice, salt, two tbsp corn oil, one tsp mustard seeds, two sprigs of curry leaves, one finely sliced small red onion, one tsp chopped garlic, one tsp chopped ginger, one pinch turmeric powder, 800ml raw mango gravy, 100ml thick coconut milk

…Dubai diners

PREPARATION Marinate the assorted fish with the salt and lemon juice and one pinch of turmeric powder and put aside. Heat corn oil in a pan and add mustard seeds. Once it splutters add the curry leaves, red onion, garlic, ginger, and sauté until onion is translucent. Add turmeric powder and sauté. Add the hammour, prawns and lobster, and sauté for three minutes on a low heat. Add raw mango sauce and allow to cook until seafood is almost done.

Add scallops and cook for further three or four minutes. Add coconut milk, check the seasoning and serve with rice.

The climate here has changed a lot. People’s taste buds have changed and they now appreciate and acknowledge the concept of fine dining Indian. It’s the norm now. Each restaurant has a head chef and an element of individuality, but any new additions I will decide. They don’t change dishes. I come four or five times I year and I keep an eye on things.

…the Bhatia style of cooking

There’s nothing wrong with the old fashioned way, but it is very heavy. You end up with food leftover that you can’t eat. The dishes we do here wouldn’t work in Bur Dubai or Karama, because it’s a different audience. There they expect to get something

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 53

Ramsay

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CHEF CELEEBCIAL SP

“I haven’t finished learning” He’s suffered a rash of restaurant closures, a jarring split from the CEO of Gordon Ramsay Holdings – who also happens to be his fatherin-law – and recently said goodbye to yet another of his protégés, Angela Hartnett. But if Gordon Ramsay is having a tough time he doesn’t show it, and he's definitely not ready to hang up his chef's jacket just yet So, what do you think of the newly refurbished Verre, then, Gordon?

I can count on one hand how many times I’ve been upset at Verre in the last nine years. Based on the reports I’ve had on the restaurant reopening, we’re 80 per cent of the way there. We’re not perfect, but we’re getting there.

Were you worried about giving head chef Scott Price so much freedom at just 29?

I don’t want to be cloned and I don’t want them in a straightjacket. What he has is an amazing palate and I trust that palate. Scott’s a trusted lieutenant and he’s got to find his feet.

On the back of his brilliant pedigree he’d be an absolute fool if he messed it up with just 40 to 60 covers a night. I’m not saying we’re untouchable, but we certainly set the benchmark in Dubai. So I’m very proud of him and, more importantly, he’s going to go a long way. What this kitchen has spawned over the last decade is quite extraordinary. Some of the best chefs in the UK have come out of Verre in Dubai.

Like Angela Hartnett?

Sure. It’s been a significant week. Angela is now lock, stock and barrel holding the baby and owning 100 per cent of [London

The masterclass Gordon Ramsay joins us in the Verre kitchen for one of Scott Price’s masterclasses “I can sense him, he’s definitely around,” chef Scott said, his head darting this way and that trying to spot his boss before his boss spotted him.

Ramsay seems to have that effect on people, but when he finally did arrive he was, well, not chirpy exactly, but certainly animated, chatting as we prepared a fine apple tarte tatin and slightly overcooked our duck.

We must admit we were quite looking forward to a rollicking, but the celeb chef spent most of the time making fun of his young protégé – most notably for not talking enough.

No need to worry, though – if you sign up for a masterclass, Scott will do plenty of talking without the big man there and you’ll get a Verre apron, recipes and breakfast thrown in. Masterclass. Done.

Verre, Hilton Dubai Creek, 10am to 2pm, Dhs950 per person. Tel: (04) 2271111 NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 55

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56 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

RAMSAY STREET Ramsay protégés that have flown the nest

Marcus Wareing Having worked for Ramsay for 15 years, Wareing left – rather unceremoniously – in 2008 to open Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley Hotel, which was named best restaurant in London by the Harden’s Guide the same year, ahead of Ramsay’s own three star Royal Hospital Road.

Jason Atherton Ramsay appointed Atherton executive chef of Verre in 2002, following stints at Spain’s El Bulli, working under the mighty Ferran Adria, Frith Street and L’Anis in London. He later returned to London to run Ramsay’s Maze, but left in April planning to set up his own restaurant.

So you’ll continue doing what you’re doing, despite the press? You don’t really like the media attention, do you, Gordon?

No, not really, no. I hate it. I’m a chef. Unfortunately, the profile was built on the back of the success – not because it was being chased.

The press have been phenomenal, but it has its dark side as well. If you dance with the devil, don’t be surprised if you get burnt.

Angela Hartnett The most recent of his charges to strike out on her own, Hartnett started at Ramsay’s Aubergine along with Marcus Wareing in 1994 and worked at numerous Ramsay restaurants before opening Verre in 2001. Hartnett won a Michelin star at The Connaught Hotel in 2004 and most recently ran the kitchen at Ramsay’s Murano in London. Just last month she bought Ramsay out and is now chef and owner of Murano.

APPLE TARTE TATIN (FOR SIX) INGREDIENTS 15 red apples, 400g caster sugar, 350g unsalted butter, one sheet of rolled puff pastry (available pre-made in supermarkets) PREPARATION Place the sugar in a pan and caramelise. Slowly beat in the butter, being careful not to split caramel. Pour caramel into a large, round ovenproof dish and leave to cool. Quarter all but one of the apples and remove the seeds and core using a knife, halve the remaining apple and remove the seeds and core using an apple corer. Place one apple half in the centre of the dish and place the quarters around the centrepiece to form a circle. Roll out the puff pastry to 3mm to 4mm then cut a circle a little larger than the dish and cover the apples with it, making sure to push the edges of the pastry down in-between the apples. Bake in the oven at 180 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes, or until pastry is cooked and crisp and the caramel dark brown. Turn the mould over onto a plate while hot and lift off the mould. Serve with ice cream.

GETTY/GALLO IMAGES

restaurant] Murano. To think that she came out here and set up Verre right at the beginning, sadly just a week after 9/11 – the worst time for any opening anywhere in the world.

But we weathered the storm, we went from strength to strength and it’s become a great breeding ground.

You have a reputation for having quite a bad temper. Any need to shout at Scott today?

No, no need to shout at him. I have a great relationship with these guys. I know how difficult and what a pain I can be at times. But when it’s good, it’s good. When it’s bad, they need to know it’s bad.

If Michelin came to Dubai, would Verre be good enough to win a star?

Verre would get more than one Michelin star. There are big restaurants over here, but I’ve eaten out, I’ve seen the competition, and Verre would be edging on two or three Michelin stars.

That’s a bold call.

There would be a lot of Michelin stars. Not just Pierre Gagnaire, Locatelli, Nobu and the Gary Rhodes aspect, but there are some extremely good restaurants in Dubai. I’ve come across phenomenal Chinese and Indian, for example, and it [Michelin] would be the icing on the cake. If you can put a Michelin guide in Vegas, you can definitely put a guide in Dubai.

You know quite a few big name chefs. Is Dubai still on their radar?

Dubai is very much a place chefs still want to come to. Alain Ducasse is on the verge of signing somewhere. Guy Savoy is looking again. It’s a bit of a draw.

Can we expect some more Gordon Ramsay restaurants?

I would like to do something else, but it has to be the right opportunity. Perhaps something more relaxed – a steakhouse or a grill or something with a little bit more of a lively buzz as opposed to the fine dining room.

Not planning on stopping any time soon, then?

I’m 43. Three big openings next year. The Savoy Grill next month. I think that’s enough for a year. Stopping? That sounds like getting old and boring, right? No, I’m not going to stop. I need to keep going and I’m naturally excited about food, but I also get bored very quickly.

Bored enough for a return to the kitchen?

No plans to return. Definitely not. I don’t want to die behind the stove and I like my life outside the kitchen. There are cooks and there are chefs. I love cooking, I absolutely love it, but my god, I’ve served my time behind the stove. I’m still getting better. I haven’t finished learning. But do I need to be at the helm and start deboning duck and lamb, filleting sea bass at half past seven in the morning? No, not really.

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Le roi du foie gras lui-mĂŞme all the way from his own Lab in France freshly to you.

Chef Robert Chaffanjon is back! Do not miss his marvelous specialties during his seasonal Famous Festival at Le Beaujolais Restaurant From October 26 to November 4, 2010 Together with live performance of the French accordionist Frank

&

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EATING OUT

Enjoy our round-up of

ARMANI/HASHI

Dubai’s newest brunches

What was that shooting pain we felt? Oh yes, it was Armani/Hashi being so hip it hurts. Not only is the address a sure-fire way to wow, their new brunch is all that and then some, with stunningly fresh seafood, unrelenting Bollinger and killer views.

Throw in the sushi buffet, a la carte mains, a children’s room complete with nanny and enough sake to sink Molly Brown and you’re onto a winner. A very cool winner.

Best for: Sophisticates Armani/Hashi, Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, Downtown, Dubai, noon to 3.30pm, Dhs290 with soft drinks, Dhs380 with selected beverages, Dhs585 including Bollinger and Dhs145 for children aged four to ten. Tel: (04) 8883888. www.dubai.armanihotels.com

DUSIT THANI DUBAI

Warehouse

NOBU HIGH BRUNCH

Armani/Hashi

Nobu co-founder Robert De Niro once said :“There’s nothing more ironic or contradictory than life itself”. Fortunately, business partner Nobu Matsuhisa leaves the twaddle to Bob, while he busies himself creating such dishes as his legendary black miso cod. Enjoy that and more with Nobu’s new brunch, which boats an impressive a la carte menu, wine, beer and sake tasting in four hours of Japanese fusion fun.

Best for: Nobu fans Atlantis The Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, noon to 4pm, Dhs320 without alcohol, Dhs490 with alcohol. Tel: (04) 4262626. www. atlantisthepalm.com

A pan-Asian feast in the truest sense, you can enjoy phad Thai from Thailand, sushi from Japan, a Chinese dim sum station and curries from India and Sri Lanka, as well as fruit and ice carvings for the eminently sensible sum of Dhs200 with house beverages. The 24th floor of the Dusit Thani Dubai is the only place to be on a Saturday.

Best for: Those who overspent on Friday night and need a quality feed Dusit Thani Dubai, 133 Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, Sat noon to 4pm, Dhs145 food only, Dhs175 without alcohol, Dhs200 with house beverages, Dhs259 with sparkling, Dhs449 with champagne and house spirits. Tel: (04) 3174515. www.dusitthanidubai.dusit.com

WAREHOUSE MALT DRUNCH

Pull on your loosest trousers, take a deep breath and swot up on your knowledge of rare malt-based beverages. Starters, a main course a la carte and a dessert buffet should line the belly, but the real action arrives in liquid form, with a choice of more than 50 beers. Cheers!

Best for: Beer lovers Warehouse, Le Méridien Dubai, Garhoud, Dubai, 1pm to 4pm, Dhs159 to Dhs259. Tel: (04) 7022560. www.lemeridien-dubai.com/ en/dining NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 59

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Sheraton Deira

The Gramercy

This isn’t a brunch, it’s a lunch, or rather six lunches. Choose to dine at Persia Persia, Mahi Mahi, Medzo, Carter’s, Thai Chi or Seville’s for just Dhs225.

Best for: Picky people Wafi, Oud Metha, Dubai, noon to 3.30pm, Dhs130 without alcohol, Dhs225 with alcohol.

Tel: (04) 3244100. www.wafi.com

SHERATON DEIRA

A cold buffet, eggs and pasta made to order, a buffet and a dessert corner – all for under Dhs150. Can’t say fairer than that, now, can you?

Best for: Those on a budget Sheraton Deira Hotel, Al Muteena Street, Deira, Dubai, 12.30pm to 4pm, Dhs109 without alcohol, Dhs149 with alcohol. Tel: (04) 2688888. www.starwoodhotels.com

DHOW PALACE HOTEL

There’s nothing flashy or complicated about this one, but with its all you can eat buffet and rock bottom price tag, it’s ideal for big families looking to fill up on a Friday afternoon.

Best for: Families Dhow Palace Hotel, Bur Dubai, Dubai, noon to 4pm, Dhs79 with five drinks, Dhs39 for children.

Tel: (04) 3599992. www.dhowpalacedubai.com

THE GRAMERCY

Not really a brunch at all this, more an afternoon meal, but labels be damned.

Choose from The Gramercy’s impressive French-leaning a la carte menu until 5pm, then enjoy drinks and a dance until 9pm. The DJ plays “New York style beats“, apparently.

Best for: Pushing on into the evening DIFC, Unit 7, Level 2, Building 3, Dubai, 2pm to 5pm, Dhs175 without alcohol, Dhs325 with alcohol. Tel: (04) 4377511

CARAMEL RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

Set menus are the order of the day at Caramel. No matter which of the three packages you choose, you will be able to choose two appetisers, one main and a dessert from the a la carte menu. Resident DJ Kirk spins tunes throughout.

Best for: Lounge lizards DIFC, Dubai, 2pm to 5pm, Dhs300 without alcohol, Dhs395 with house beverages, Dhs495 with Laurent Perrier. Tel: (04) 4256677. www.carameldubai.com

60 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

THE CAVENDISH

Choose one of the two brunch packages with alcohol and you will have access to The Bonnington’s pool facilities after enjoying European and Asian fare at the hotel‘s signature restaurant, The Cavendish.

Best for: A post-brunch dip The Bonnington, Jumeirah Lake Towers, Dubai, 12.30pm to 3.30pm, Dhs145 without alcohol, Dhs245 with house beverages, Dhs345 with premium beverages. Tel: (04) 3560600. www.bonningtontower.com

AL BUSTAN ROTANA

SLOANE’S

Certainly not for revellers, Sloane’s brunch is looking to appeal to a more cultivated clientele looking to enjoy a civilised lunch, choosing from an Italian buffet and various live cooking stations with a glass of sparkling wine.

Best for: A quiet lunch Grosvenor House, Dubai Marina, Dubai, 1pm to 4pm, Dhs220. Tel: (04) 3998888. www. grosvenorhouse-dubai.com

Wafi

Caramel

If variety is the spice of life, then Al Bustan‘s Grand Friday brunch is a sure fire winner.

With a smorgasbord of different cuisines you are pleasingly spoiled for choice. The aptly named Choices restaurant joins forces with The Blue Elephant and Benihana restaurants to offer a mouthwatering mix of Arabic, Chinese, Japanese, Indian and Italian delights. And the frozen ice cream plate is one of the best dessert offerings in town.

Best for: Dessert Al Bustan Rotana, Casablanca Road, Al Garhoud, Dubai, 12.30pm to 4pm, Dhs199.

Tel: (04) 2820000

ISTOCK

WAFI

THE LAID-BACK AND LIVELY MEET AND MINGLE AT

The Address

MONTGOMERIE DUBAI

Contemplate

the sunset and spectacular views, sip liquid refreshments, indulge in sumptuous grilled cuisine and unwind in surroundings that capture the essence of urban chic. Nineteen and the Sunset Terrace & Lounge present a vibrant, yet relaxing atmosphere, perfect for an elegant Friday Brunch or Saturday Roast. Additionally, stop by with friends for a light bite mid week paired with flavoursome vintages and zesty beverages.

Visit The Address Montgomerie Dubai, seven days a week, and enjoy exceptional offers from as little as AED 99.

T +971 4 363 1275 F +971 4 438 7888 NINETEEN@THEADDRESS.COM WWW.THEADDRESS.COM

THE CRITIC

James Brennan knows food. Having written on everything from bhajis to burgers for a string of international publications, James is now the Middle East chairman of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants judging panel.

Don’t miss his monthly musings every issue.

Fresh food. It tastes better. We all know that. If it’s a choice between that leathery old tomato that’s taken on the look of a Dr Who baddie in the back of your fridge, and that shiny, proud new tomato bought from the supermarket only yesterday, there’s no contest.

But I’m talking about even fresher than that.

Sure, you can be really obsessive and set up camp outside Spinneys to get the pick of that morning’s delivery of tomatoes, but you’d just look plain weird doing that – at best. At worst, you’d be arrested, and prison tomatoes aren’t particularly fresh – in fact, they aren’t tomatoes, they’re potatoes. No, I’m talking real fresh food. The freshest you 62 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

can get. The kind you grow or kill yourself.

“Grow it yourself?”, I’m imagining hearing you cry in overplayed disbelief. “This is the UAE,” you add, still whining. “The laws of nature don’t apply here, it’s hotter than the planet Mercury, soil turns to glass, even the palm trees have to be imported from Taiwan, and they’re made out of vulcanised rubber...” etc. Yes, we all know it’s hot here, but growing your own herbs and vegetables in the Emirates is a cinch, as long as you take care of them.

“But I don’t have a garden,” you persist annoyingly. Well, you don’t need a garden. OK, if you’re planning on growing an orchard of banana trees, then perhaps you do. But you can get great results growing your own cherry tomatoes and herbs on your balcony.

You start the seedlings off on a window ledge indoors while it’s still hot outside. But when the plants are a few weeks old and the weather is more temperate, it’s time to get them out in the open where they’ll flourish in the glory of the UAE’s greatest natural resource: sunlight. As long as you keep them watered regularly, they’ll thrive. I should know – I did it last year, along with some

“WE ALL KNOW IT’S HOT HERE, BUT GROWING YOUR OWN HERBS AND VEGETABLES IN THE EMIRATES IS A CINCH, AS LONG AS YOU TAKE CARE OF THEM” coriander, oregano and basil, and wrote a really smug blog post about it on my blog, duguzzle. blogspot.com.

The benefit of growing your own cannot be overstated. It’s the freshest food you can get and you can really taste the difference. The tomatoes are sweeter and juicier, the herbs more fragrant and vibrant. And when you consider that fresh produce immediately begins to slowly decompose as soon as it’s picked, it’s got to be better than supermarket stuff that’s spent days in storage and transit before it even hits the shelves.

So that’s growing your own

sorted, what about killing your own (vegetarians may leave the room in a spasm of moral indignation now)? Now, I’m not advocating picking off pigeons with an air rifle, however much fun that might be. Neither am I saying you should keep a herd of sheep on your balcony. But you can go sea fishing, or even better – crab hunting.

Night-time crab hunting tours near the mangroves of Umm Al Quwain, armed with nothing but a spear, a bucket and a murderous disposition, will re-acquaint you with the cave dweller within. And it will reward you with delicious, fresh crab. The freshest you can get.

EATING OUT

Join the Saffa carnival Enjoy an evening of family fun at The Els Club Unless you hail from South Africa, you probably won’t know what a braii or a sokkiejol is – we had no idea – but now‘s your chance to find out. For nonSaffas, a braii is a barbecue and a sokkiejol is a dance, often involving hundreds of people, both of which you’ll find at the Els Club’s South African festival this month.

The organisers expect to draw a crowd of 1,000-plus for the festival, who’ll also enjoy a potjie cook-off judged by a special ‘celebrity’ guest – possibly Els himself – with ten teams of four competing to prepare the best potjie or layered stew in a large

pot set over hot coals.

There will also be bouncy castles, face painting and clowns for the diminutive members of your clan and various golf competitions on the flood-lit driving

range for the olds, including ‘breaking the glass’ – ie thumping a golf ball as hard as you can at a plate of glass in an attempt to smash it and claim victory. In South Africa they call this kind of

thing a ‘jol’, apparently. Whatever you call it, it’s sounds like a fun party to us, bru.

Nov 26, The Els Club, Dubai Sports City, Dubai, 4pm to late, free. Tel: (04) 4251010. www.elsclubdubai.com

A REAL TASTE OF IRELAND IN DUBAI

Opening in November

First opened in Dublin in 1964, McGettigan’s Irish Pub has now arrived in Dubai!

Enjoy the craic in Dubai’s first and only Irish family owned and run Irish Pub!

From a well poured pint of Guinness, or a shot of Jameson, to Irish breakfasts and other fine Irish fare – McGettigan’s has it all, plus so much more – live sports, entertainment and the friendliest service in town!

Nearest Metro - Jumeirah Lakes Towers Valet parking available at Bonnington.

Bonnington Jumeirah Lakes Towers Plot J3-J4, Jumeirah Lakes Towers, P.O. Box 37246, Dubai, U.A.E. T: +971 4 356 0000 F: +971 4 356 0400 E: info@mcgettigansdubai.com www.mcgettigansdubai.com

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 63

Win with What’s On WIN! DINNER FOR SIX WITH WHAT'S ON AT VERRE'S CHEF'S TABLE Having dined at Scott Price's chef's table and looked on as Gordon Ramsay himself gave it the official nod of approval during his flying visit in October, we know this is a fine prize. And as if dinner for you and five friends wasn't enough, What's On will join you for the evening. To win the opportunity to dine with us at one of the finest restaurants in Dubai, just answer the following question.

Where was Gordon Ramsay born? a) Glasgow b) Shanghai c) Dubai

ON M CLICHKMOTIVATE.CDOS

A IT ND LO .WINW WWW TER THIS A ITIONS TO EN E COMPET MOR

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 65

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COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND GREEN ART GALLERY

ARTS

p68 In the eye of the beholder p69 Art alert p69 Down Bastakiya way p70 Five to see p71 Lover’s leap NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 67

COURTESY OF THE ARTIST SALMAN

ARTS

In the eye of the beholder An art studio for young adults with special needs, Mawaheb from Beautiful People opened in Bastakiya last month.

The concept was adopted from similar ventures in the Netherlands and aims to help integrate special needs individuals within the community while encouraging them to discover new skills. Manager Sonja Tatton takes time to tell What’s On about the project How did the opening go?

On October 1 we held an admissions day. It was an opportunity for the parents and their children to come to the studio and have a look around and talk to us about the programme. The day was a huge success and for me in particular the day was a proud moment. To see how grateful the parents were about there being something like this in Dubai for their children was worth all the effort that it has taken to establish the studio. We plan to have the official opening later in the year.

What do you hope to offer Dubai’s special needs community?

We hope that the community will embrace the studio and know that Mawaheb from Beautiful People is dedicated to inspiring and teaching new skills to their children. People 68 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

can apply to attend for a minimum of one day a week and a maximum of three days a week for the year from September until June. Essentially it is a place of acceptance and understanding of each other, where young adults can come and learn not only artistic skills, but develop their self confidence and feel valued.

Is the studio open to visitors?

Absolutely! We love visitors. We are very fortunate to be located in an area that is immersed in local and international art and culture, so we already have a lot of passing interest.

It is also important that we encourage people to drop by and see what wonderful things people with special needs can do.

An important aspect of our vision is to educate people to the fact that although someone has a disability, they can still contribute to society and make a difference. We guarantee that whoever walks through those doors will leave with a smile on their face.

What are your plans for the future?

We currently have a weekly programme that we offer our students which is under the direction of our resident artist, Gulshan Kavarana. Our plan is to have a series of workshops in various mediums of art from visiting artists. We also have plans to teach students cooking skills with a trained professional in our small commercial kitchen. Eventually we would like to open a small café, where the public can drop in for light refreshments while marvelling at the wonderful artwork. Essentially, we are studio for everyone to enjoy.

Sun, Tue, Wed, Thurs, Mawaheb from Beautiful People, Villa 40, Bastakiya, Bur Dubai, Dubai, free. Tel: (04) 3532100. www. mawaheb-dubai.com.

COURTESY OF THE ARTIST SARAH

ARTS

Art alert Skills set

There’s something about the winter months that seems to encourage a thirst for creative knowledge in What’s On’s collective psyche. If you feel the same, look no further than Art Sawa’s truly inspiring programme of courses and one-off classes. This month alone offers everything from a five-session intro into the history of art (starting from November 8) to a one-off music appreciation masterclass on the eclectic oeuvre of one John Cage (November 30).

The Al Quoz gallery also offers regular workshops in audition and performance preparation, seasonal crafts and the like.

Check out the website for details. www.artsawa.com

Art Prize winners announced

Now entering its third year, the Abraaj Capital Art Prize continues to go from strength to strength. Famously feted as the world’s biggest art prize, for the first time this year the US$1 million prize pot is to be split among five – rather than three, as in previous years – artists from across the Middle East, North Africa and South Asia. Jananne Al-Ani (Iran), Nadia Kaabi-Linke (Tunisia), Timo Nasseri (Iraq) and Hamra Abbas and Shezad Dawood from South Asia will each work with guest curator Sharmini Pereira to produce original works that will get their first public airing at Art Dubai 2011. Can’t wait. www.abraaj.com/acap

On the move

It’s all change again over in Al Quoz as Green Art Gallery prepares to up sticks from its longstanding Jumeriah home and settle into a brand spanking new warehouse space in – you guessed it – Al Serkal Avenue in December. Al Quoz has long been touted as Dubai’s answer to East London or Downtown New York’s art scene, and with a fistful of some of the city’s most exciting galleries now located in one (easily walkable!) place, it looks like that prediction is finally set to come true. About time, we say. www.gaagallery.com

Down Bastakiya way – three more reasons to visit Bur Dubai

XVA GALLERY Set in the winding backstreets of Bastakiya’s traditional lanes, XVA Gallery continues to be one of the best reasons to venture Creekside. Its cuttingedge exhibitions arguably set the standard for Dubai’s contemporary art scene. And the shop and café aren’t half bad either. www.xvagallery.com

MAJLIS GALLERY Twenty-one-years-young this month, Majlis continues to enchant with its relatively traditional roster of artists, on-site craft shop and oh-sopeaceful courtyard – an oasis in the middle of Bur Dubai’s trafficclogged madness. www.themajlisgallery.com DUBAI MUSEUM It’s amazing just how few of the emirate’s residents have paid a visit to this, the official guardian of Dubai’s maritime and cultural history. Make like a tourist for an afternoon by wandering its cool, calm corridors in the restored Al Fahidi Fort – you won’t regret it. www.dubaitourism.ae NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 69

ARTS

Five to see

ÅBORDELINES: DECONSTRUCTING EXILE

The final show in Green’s Jumeirah gallery is a cracker – a group exhibition of work by contemporary Palestinian artists.

Unsurprisingly given the artists’ background there is much musing on identity and displacement, all deftly handled and thoroughly thought-provoking.

Until Nov 30. Green Art Gallery, Villa 23, 51st Street, Jumeirah, Dubai.

Tel: (04) 3449888. www.gagallery.com

ÑMEZZO ÅSUSAN THOMPSON: BOTANICAL ARTIST

Botanical art was a favourite of the Victorian era, but fell out of favour as the 20th century progressed. This charming exhibition of Thompson’s delicately intricate close-ups of plants and flowers, however, shows us all what we’re missing.

Until Nov 18, Majlis Gallery, Al Musalla Roundabout, Bastakiya, Bur Dubai, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3536233. www.themajlisgallery.com

Not all art needs a gallery setting, as this exhibition at Aspen in the Kempinski Hotel demonstrates. Courtesy of the Vindemia Art & Antique Gallery it features the work of self-educated Lebanese painter Georges Bassil, who finds the inspiration for his ”ballerinas” in the voices of Billie Holiday and Umm Kulthum.

Until Nov 21, Vindemia Art & Antique Gallery, Aspen, Kempinski Hotel, Mall of the Emirates, Dubai.

Tel: (04) 4270219

ÅRABBIT IN WONDERLAND

Using both painting and video animation, Farideh Lashai takes the rabbit of the title on a journey through the kind of eccentric world of which Lewis Caroll would be proud. There’s a dark heart at the centre of all this, however, as the artist muses on her homeland, Iran, and its place in a changing world.

Nov 3 to Dec 9, Gallery IVDE, Al Serkal Avenue, Al Quoz 1, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3235052. www.ivde.net 70 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

The heavy stylisation of Hayv Kahraman’s works belie the subtle layers of their message.

In this, her first solo exhibition in the UAE, the artist uses depictions of childhood games to play with meanings and notions of gender. It gives a whole new meaning to the nature/nurture debate.

Until Dec 1, The Third Line, behind Spinney’s warehouse, Al Quoz 3, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3411367. www.thethirdline.com

COURTESY OF THE ARTIST: THE THIRD LINE GALLERY

ÉPINS AND NEEDLES

Lovers’ leap

WIN!

THEA TRE T

If you ICKET S for th 'd like to s We ha e grand to ee When H tal of a ve two rr pairs o nada they Met Sally For yo n re f tic ur www.wchance to wkets to giv ad on. e aw in in Who p and answwithmotivaa pair, visit ay. te layed e Harry r this ques .com tion. a) Billyin the origin Crysta al mo b) Billy vie? l c) Billi Connolly e Pipe r

Forget ”to be or not to be” or the meaning of life – one of the most pressing questions of the past few decades came courtesy of perennial Hollywood classic When Harry Met Sally in 1989.

So, can a man and a woman ever be just friends? While we may disagree with WHMS’s conclusion, there’s no doubting that Sally and Harry’s journey from frenemies to star-crossed lovers is one of the most entertaining this side of the gender divide – and not just because of that now famous diner scene (“I’ll have what she’s having...”). Great news, then, that this particular celluloid gem is now getting a new lease of life on the Dubai stage courtesy of Popular Productions.

The stage version of When Harry Met Sally caused quite the stir when it first hit London’s West End in 2004. Since then, productions have been staged pretty much constantly, from New York to Edinburgh. Meg Ryan and Billy Crystal may have defined the characters on screen, but Sally and Harry’s real charm lies in Nora Ephron’s original screenplay – cleverly adapted and brought to life on stage by playwright Marcy Kahan – which goes a long way to explain why the play has been so successful: it is the story, rather than the stars, that defines it.

Which is not to say that the Madinat production isn’t without its stars: both John Cusworth and Gillian Budd are West End actors of good standing, while Popular Productions has been responsible for sell-out UAE shows from Woman In Black to Blood Brothers. Will we be battling for a front row place on opening night? Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes!

Nov 16 to 7. Madinat Theatre, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3666546. www.seewhenharrynetsally.com NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 71

Win with What’s On Another bumper month of prizes. For your chance to win, visit www.winwithmotivate. com, answer the questions and keep your fingers crossed

WIN! BRUNCH FOR EIGHT AT AQUARA

Round up some pals, commandeer a table at Aquara and go nuts on the seafood buffet. Just don’t forget about that dessert room.

Heaven really is a place on earth. If you fancy a free Friday brunch at this gorgeous waterside spot, you’ll have to tell us…

Which of the following is not seafood? a) Oysters b) Crab c) Corn on the cob

WIN! STEAK DINNERS FOR TEN AT PALERMO

That’s right – you and nine friends could be enjoying the steak night at Palermo at the Dubai Polo & Equestrian Club. Held every week on Mondays and Tuesdays, there’s a meaty feast of steaks and grills, all served in the welcoming restaurant or on the terrace under the stars. For your chance to win this fantastic feeding frenzy, answer this question correctly: Which of the following is a polo term? a) Pukka b) Chukka c) Mukka

WIN! A YEAR’S SUPPLY OF MONSTER ENERGY DRINK

Are you flagging? Need some energy for the next 12 months?

Luckily we have a year’s supply of Monster Energy drink to keep you going through late nights and morning afters or, if you want to be a traditionalist, get you pumped up for sporting action. To get your hands on a case (24 cans) per month for 12 months, tell us: Which of the following ingredients won’t be found in Monster Energy? a) Taurine b) Unicorn tears c) Ginseng

72 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

WIN! BRUNCH FOR FOUR AT THE AL BUSTAN ROTANA

To celebrate the launch of brunch at Choice’s restaurant at the Al Bustan Rotana, we have a table for four to give away. Top restaurants like Benihana and Blue Elephant serve up exotic dishes, alongside Italian, Indian and Arabic favourites, plus enough desserts to keep Dubai dentists in business for years. To be in with a chance of winning a table for four, correctly complete this saying: Variety is the spice of… a) Life b) Strife c) Rife

SHOPPING

ESSENTIAL

BEACH READS Kickback on the beach and enjoy the autumn sun with one of these ripping yarns

THE SKATING RINK, ROBERTO BOLANO

Chilean author Roberto Bolano blew this pop stand called Earth back in 2003, but the success in English translation of his novel The Savage Detectives in 2006 set loose a flood of Bolano books in English, including this story of crime, politics, infatuation and figure skating set on Spain’s Costa Brava. Read it, then read the entire Bolano canon before two more translations in 2011.

If you like this try… Blow-up And Other Stories, Julio Cortázar A JOURNEY, TONY BLAIR

You may not like Anthony Charles Lynton Blair, but he's the man took the reins of Britain’s Labour party in 1994, led them to a landslide election victory after 18 years in opposition in 1997 – the first of three electoral triumphs – sat at the head of government as Prime Minister for a decade and changed the face of British politics forever. This stout tome covers everything from 1994 to 2010. Anyone interested in British, or indeed world politics, will devour it in days.

If you like this try… The New Machiavelli, Jonathan Powell DEAD LIKE YOU, PETER JAMES

British crime writer Peter James is a big name amongst fans of the genre, and his series of novels featuring Detective Superintendent Roy Grace, of which Dead Like You is the sixth, has brought some of his best sales. It follows Grace as he attempts to solve the murders of two women in Brighton.

Thrilling stuff from an accepted master of the crime genre.

If you like this try… The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo, Stieg Larsson 74 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

WALKING TO HOLLYWOOD, WILL SELF

THE GLASS PALACE, AMITAV GHOSH

Walking to Hollywood is an exploration of French theorist Guy Debord’s psycho-geography (the effect of environment on an individual’s behaviour and emotions) in the form of a fictionalised memoir in which the author himself appears in the form of the main character Charles Ryder. Of course it is. Will Self wrote it.

Split into three sections, the surreal action unfolds during a walk through LA and the East Coast of Yorkshire. A strange book, but then strange is Self’s modus operandi.

If you like this try… Crash, J G Ballard

With almost too much plot to cram into one book, this epic love story crosses borders, generations and class systems. Cleverly weaving India’s rich history with intricate fiction, The Glass Palace is a classic rags-toriches saga following an extended family’s journey that will keep you gripped from beach to bar to bed.

If you like this try… A Fine Balance, Rohinton Mistry

FREEDOM, JONATHAN FRANZEN

This impeccably researched account includes memories from former employees and schoolmates of Sumner, a founding member of Joy Division and New Order. Nolan bravely handed over his work to the man himself and the result is a book packed with footnotes from Sumner confirming and also disputing various tall tales. Recommended for curious musos and post-punk nerds.

If you like this try… The Hacienda: How Not To Run A Nightclub, Peter Hook

Published just two months ago, Freedom has already been dubbed a ‘modern classic’ and the embodiment of the ‘great American novel’, and its author Jonathan Franzen ((The Corrections), whose mug was recently plastered across the cover of Time magazine, hailed as the saviour of America literature and the heir to literary giants Updike, Bellow, Roth and DeLillo. So, let’s just say this family drama in which the characters spew out references to pop culture, is a pretty good read.

If you like this try… Underworld, Don DeLillo JUMP!, JILLY COOPER

Ah Jilly, you gap-toothed lovely.

The purveyor of horsey romps returns with this small town tale of an aspiring racehorse and the characters that surround her. There are wealthy trainers, handsome stable lads and more toned thighs in jodpurs than you can shake a whip at, so you’ll be transported from desert sands to the English countryside at galloping speed.

If you like this try… Polo, Jilly Cooper

BERNARD SUMNER: CONFUSION, DAVID NOLAN

ONE DAY, DAVID NICHOLLS

Catching up with two characters, Emma and Dexter, on every July 15 over 20 years from the day they leave university. One Day is a rare novel that successfully jumps through great chunks of time, leaving the reader guessing where the next chapter will take them. The superbly written protagonists aren’t always likeable, but guide you through a full range of human emotions, resulting in a moving read just crying out to be made into a film.

If you like this try… Juliet, Naked, Nick Hornby

Got a fashion question for Sophia?

E-mail editor-wo@motivate.ae

Sophia says...

We drag the oh-so stylish Sophia Triantafillou away from the helm at Emirates Woman into the grubby What’s On office to answer your wardrobe woes I'm in need of a smart pair of shoes – none of those ones that curl up at the ends or have buckles or pennies stuck to them.

Just smart, shiny and stylish. Tips?

Jeff, Old Town, Dubai My mother always told me “you can tell a man by his shoes” and I am afraid to admit she is right. One of the biggest fashion faux pas a man can make is to wear shoes that are old, have a (high) heel or a rubber sole. If casual is what you are after, look no further than Tom Ford, who does about the best slippers and loafers around. Hermès and Bottega Veneta are also excellent choices for shoes that (if you look after them)

will last for many years to come. If you need some dress shoes, head to your nearest Louis Vuitton boutique for some sleek designs that are sans buttons and buckles.

Shoes by Louis Vuitton

I live in Abu Dhabi and commute to Dubai a couple of times a week. My wife hates my backpack (from my university days). Can you suggest a bag that doesn’t look too feminine and fits all of my stuff in it?

Paul, Abu Dhabi You definitely need a suit bag that will not only hold your suits, but

ties and cufflinks too. 'Roll ons' are also really easy and come with front pockets that can fit a laptop or files safely inside. Gucci at the Marina Mall in Abu Dhabi have a luggage range for the fashionforward gent, but if you are looking for something a little more casual (and inexpensive) Zara has some great choices.

Bag by Gucci

I have a wedding to go to next month and was planning to wear my favourite new LBD to the reception until someone

told me that wearing black does not coincide with proper wedding etiquette. Is this true? I don’t want to upset the bride on her big day.

Polly, Bur Dubai, Dubai First things first, you can wear black anywhere so please don’t hesitate in wearing black to this wedding. Black is a forever-chic option and can be accessorised with striking stilettos and A bag to make a certain fashion statement.

Add a hat with some netting and stand out from the crowd in style!

Lanvin

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His 'n' hers Jet set A cut above The verdict Spa deals NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 77

His‘n’hers

MIND & BODY

Our guy and gal check out Grand Millennium’s Jasmine Spa

Hers

His

LYMPHATIC DRAINAGE MASSAGE

SHIATSU

TALK US THROUGH IT… The Japanese shiatsu massage technique involves applying firm pressure with the fingers, palms and thumbs. There’s no messing about with this treatment. You arrive, change, lie down on a table in a slightly chilly room and then receive some serious prodding and pummelling (in a good way).

THE BEST BIT? My muscles were extremely stiff from training for the Dubai Marathon (Run with us!, p82), but a series of stretches at the end of the treatment left me loose and ache free. One of the most effective massages I’ve ever had.

HOW WERE THE DISPOSABLE PANTS? They weren’t. Not a throwaway thong in sight.

SLEEP FACTOR? Nope.

WHO SHOULD GET INVOLVED? Anyone looking to rid themselves of some particularly persistent strains and pains. It would make a grand post-sports massage.

If you’re looking for relaxation, luxury or pampering, do not seek it with shiatsu.

TALK US THROUGH IT… Firstly, a very well informed therapist explained that the massage doesn’t use oils, just pressure points on lymph nodes to release toxins. I was duly warned that I might feel a bit dizzy and tired afterwards. She started to masANY AWKWARD MOMENTS? sage various points from throat to Treatments are administered sans pants. Just before you disrobe HOW MUCH AND HOW LONG? feet and I promptly fell asleep.

SLEEP FACTOR? there’s always a slight worry that Dhs340 for 60 minutes, Dhs490 Loads, thanks very much.

THE BEST BIT? you’ve made an underwear error. for 90 minutes, Dhs590 for 120 After a brutal week of deadlines, But naked was, indeed, house rules. minutes.

WHO SHOULD GET 6am starts and birthdays, a mid INVOLVED? afternoon nap was just what the Lymph fluid retains toxins and sleep doctor ordered. After wak- waste, so if you’re embarking on ing, the world was a better place. a detox regime or diet this treatment to rid the body of nasties is ANY AWKWARD MOMENTS? a great place to start.

I suspect I might have kicked the therapist as I dozed off in one of HOW MUCH AND HOW LONG? those ‘I’m falling off a step’ type Dhs300 for 45 minutes, Dhs360 dreams. for 60 minutes, Dhs540 for 90 minutes.

HOW WERE THE DISPOSABLE PANTS? Jasmine Spa, Grand Millennium, Absent. After looking high and TECOM, Al Barsha, Dubai, 10am to low I resigned myself to wear9pm. Tel: (04) 4299999. ing my own. And very nice they www.millenniumhotels.com were, too.

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 79

MIND & BODY

Jet set

Whether you’ve been abroad or just had a big night on the tiles, we’ve rounded up the best jet lag treatments to restore skin, boost energy and cheat sleep DESTINATION Jet Away at Sensasia Urban Spa

N

DESTINATIO

eatment Jet Lag Tr

FLIGHT TIME 75 minutes

Spa at Amara

GE JET LAG MASSA

90 minutes IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

The Jet Away treatment looks at reviving your whole being, kicking off with a peppermint footbath and inhalation of essential oils to awaken your senses. The full body is a clever combination of light to medium pressure, lymphatic drainage to get rid of water retention and bloating, and gentle stretching, leaving you in a dreamy state.

T

TERTAINMEN

IN-FLIGHT EN

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Amara Spa ONBOARD MEALS You’ll be welcomed with a refreshing chilled tea then posttreatment indulged with Sensasia’s sensational ginger tea, which is served with cucumber and carrot sticks. Top marks.

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WHAT’S ON SAYS The ‘whole body’ approach is a winner, working a treat on that nasty post-flight bloat and tricking your mind into feeling well-rested, even if you’ve been on a plane (with a five-yearold kicking the back of your seat) for the last 14 hours.

TICKET PRICE

Sensasia

TICKET HOTLINE Sensasia Urban Spa, The Village Mall, Beach Road, Jumeirah, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3498850. www.sensasiaspas.com

DEST

INAT

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Jet Lag at The Spa

FLIG

JET LAG MASSAGE

FLIGHT TIME 80 minutes IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

Take your pick from a selection of several Aromatherapy Associates oils before hitting the table and enjoying a period of intense body brushing (one of the most pleasing sensations we’re ever experienced) and a few stretches (don’t worry, no effort on your part). The therapist then applies pressure to all the right spots on your spine and administers an outstanding massage.

ONBOARD MEALS We enjoyed three cracking cups of restorative ginger tea – soothing, but with a gentle kick – prostrate and blanketcovered in the relaxation area. We like ginger tea. A lot.

WHAT’S ON SAYS After a ten-hour flight from Milan, we couldn’t have asked for a more peaceful, cosy and luxurious spa. The changing room is vast and the slippers are first-rate (we’re still wearing them).

Firsts Clas

TICKET HOTLINE The Spa, The Address Dubai Mall, Dubai Mall, Dubai, 9am to 9pm. Tel: (04) 4388025. www.theaddress.com

80 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

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90 m

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MIND & BODY

A cut above

ISTOCK

Trust is paramount when it comes to choosing a barber – you don’t want any old clown with a tub of Brylcreem and a penchant for pruning going at your glossy locks.

Here are just a few of our favourites MANCHESTER SALON BUDGET There are numerous budget barbers to be found in Dubai.

What’s On has a friend who had his hair cut for his wedding at Four Brothers, Ras Al Khor Industrial Area for just Dhs15. And they threw in a scalp massage. And we have it on good authority, from one of our colleagues with very a fine haircut, that Manchester Salon is the place to be. “There are plenty of good Indian bar-

bers, but look for a Filipino guy called Grace working on the second floor – he’s the best,” our pal says.

Al Muteena St, near Lulu Hypermarket, Deira, Dubai, Dhs20. Tel: (04) 2625577 NIVEA HAUS SPA Located at The Dubai Mall, Nivea Haus’ The Barber Shop is one of the friendliest and most efficient sheering stops in Dubai. We’ve been visiting once a month for a year now and every cut is identical. When a man can sit in that chair without worrying or administering instruction, he knows he’s found the barber for him. Ask for Abed – a true gent. He remembers exactly what length MIDand style we desire and even the RANGE chat we were having the last time

we sat in his chair. Dhs100, including a wash.

Job done.

Dubai Mall, Dubai, Dhs100. Tel: (04) 4340777. www.niveahaus.ae

BLOW TONY & GUY If you’re going to spend big on your wig, OUT it’s a good idea to go for a well-known name – not always a guarantee of quality, but we’ve entrusted our hair to the pros at Tony & Guy on many an occasion and never left feeling, or looking, silly. T&G has been around for almost 50 years and all of its staff are fully trained and carrying the special Tony & Guy Diplomas to prove it. If you want the cheapest cut on offer make an appointment with a regular stylist, or for an extra Dhs35 opt for the style director. We recommend Chris – top cuts, and he knows his football, too.

Emirates Towers Hotel, Sheik Zayed Road, Dubai, Dhs200 to Dhs235. Tel: (04) 3303345. www.toniandguy.com

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 81

MIND & BODY

The latest openings and offers from the land of beauty

THAI PRIVILEGE SPA Celebrate Diwali with Thai Privilege Spa this November. Their themed package includes a 60-minute face or body therapy, herbal bleach for the face, mani-pedi and L'Oréal hair treatment, worth Dhs745 in total but costs Dhs499 this month.

Villa 1047, Uttamah Villas, Al Wasl Road, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3489679 N.A.I.L.S Marina-based ladies rejoice. We visited this new neighbourhood salon expecting a standard mani-pedi experience.

Instead, we found lovely treatment rooms downstairs, a range of top-notch massages on offer and the charming therapists using totally organic products.

What a nice surprise. The Thai massage (Dhs360 for 75 minutes), administered by the firm handed Sharon, was our pick, but we’ll be back to try the highly recommended Hot Stone treatment very soon.

N.A.I.L.S, Trident Marinascape, Marina Boulevard, Dubai Marina, Dubai. Tel: (04) 4473688. www.nailsorganicspa.com MANDARA SPA Awaken your body and mind with the 115-minute Sultry Citrus Body Buff by Elemis at the Monarch’s spa, at a special reduced price this month. For Dhs700 you’ll get the foot ritual, exotic lime & ginger salt glow, mini facial, Elemis bath and Balinese massage with body oil. The offer also includes your choice of Elemis bath products to take home, worth Dhs300, and you’ll get access to the health club, pool, steam room and sauna.

Mandara Spa, The Monarch, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai. Tel: (04) 5018888 82 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

LPG facial The latest high-tech facial promises more than a good old rub-down – in fact its USP is to deliver a non-surgical facelift – so no pain and all gain? What’s On finds out…

THE VERDICT

THE SALES PITCH Not all of us on What’s On are into cuttingedge gadgets. In fact, for some of us, downloading songs from iTunes is about as hightech as we get. So when LPG called about their techie facial treatment, we weren’t overcome with excitement. But when we heard the bit about it being a ‘non-surgical facelift’ our jaded ears pricked up. It could be said that the treatment is a bit like a gym session for your face – lots of exercising of the epidermis, but without you having to lift so much as an eyelash. Sounds good to us.

THE TREATMENT We’re at LPG HQ with Marimel Rodrigues, the softly spoken training manager for the brand. She guides us into a room with a pretty scary looking machine; it’s the sort of thing that looks like a prop from of an episode of Grey’s Anatomy. We’re worried that it was going to be pretty invasive – but Marimel ensures us we will leave looking simply better, not red raw or remotely sore.

We lay on the spa bed and she removes eye and face make-up. She then starts up the machine. It sounds like a vintage steam engine and is surprisingly soothing as it chugs away.

The Hoover-like attachment manipulates the skin at a faster and more effective rate than any therapists’ fingers could move, plus the ‘sucking’ sensation increases your blood flow, and feels pretty nice, too. She uses different attachments for specific areas of the face, going very gently around the eye area, and firmer around the jaw line. The treatment doesn’t last much longer than 30 minutes – so it doesn’t take too much time out of our busy schedules, always good when you’re explaining to the Editor you’re off for a facial at lunchtime.

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Spa news

THE VERDICT Despite it not being the most luxurious treatment in Dubai – no yummy oils, cleansing of chakras, fragrant candles, heavenly scalp massages, or nice herbal cuppa to finish – you certainly come out with more refined and lifted cheekbones and a clearer complexion, which means we’ll take this quick treatment over a lengthy oily rubdown anytime. A course of six sessions is recommended, but you do notice a difference from day one – so yes, it really is no pain, but plenty of gain.

LPG at Tips & Toes, Jumeirah Beach Residence, Dubai, Dhs160 per session. Tel: (04) 4293477

“The treatment is a bit like a gym session for your face – lots of exercising of the epidermis, but without you having to lift so much as an eyelash”

THE ULTIMATE 19TH HOLE. DON'T MISS GOLF'S ULTIMATE PARTY It's the sporting event of the year. The world will be watching. And this is your chance to take part, as 60 of the game's greatest names go head-to-head. Enjoy four days of dawn-to-dusk partying and say you were there when the 2010 Dubai World Champion was crowned.

Visit www.DubaiWorldChampionship.com for free tickets and information on premium hospitality packages.

25-28 NOVEMBER

2010

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Mr Fitness Run with us!

Sport shorts

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 85

SPORT & OUTDOOR

Mr Fitness

Got a fitness question for James?

E-mail otivate.ae o editor-w @m

Our resident exercise guru answers your health and fitness questions I can’t afford to join a gym so I’m jogging now, but know I should be doing some strength training, too.

What can I do at home?

Brodwin, Deira, Dubai

Are supplements a con? I’m a healthy 30-year-old guy with a good diet, so don’t feel like I’m missing out on vitamins. What are the benefits?

Noel, Bur Dubai, Dubai There are many useless supplements, but there are ones that I believe do add value. Two basic supplements everyone should be using are a quality omega three fish oil and a multi-vitamin. Don’t skimp on price, you get what you pay for. Google the benefits of fish oils and you will find that there isn’t anything that they don’t help with, from improved cognitive function (IQ) to a reduction of inflammation in the body to helping lose body fat. Winner.

What’s a good exercise to do to start working out again? I’m a little out of practise and want to get back in the swing of things.

Praveen, Oud Metha, Dubai A good activity should be something that you enjoy and that you will actually do.

Consistently. Perhaps going to the gym bores you, or the thought of going out for a run sends you into cold sweats. How about trying something like rollerblading?

It’s surprisingly tough, great for the legs (look at all those ice skaters) and low impact. Another option is to get out onto the open waters and crack on with a bit of kayaking, again a great workout for the arms and abs. If you fancy challenging your balance and stability, then why not try some paddle boarding? Start off short and build up your effort levels.

PROUDLY OPERATES

info@rmalhospitality.ae

What’s the deal with exercising and eating? Should you eat for the exercise you’re about to do or the exercise you’ve just done? If I exercise in the morning I’m always exhausted by lunch – am I not eating at the right time?

Sunita, Karama, Dubai There could be numerous reasons why you feel exhausted by lunch and one could be to do with what you are eating.

However, without knowing what you are eating, what your training sessions consist of, how much sleep you get and possible hormonal issues it is hard to say what the exhaustion issue is. A simple thing to do is to have half of a workout shake (protein and carbs) before you train and the other half once you have finished. So if you’re training at 7.30am, have half at around 7ish and then the other half at say 8.40am, just after training. I would then advise you to have a solid protein and carb meal at about 10am, to aid with the recovery process, before having lunch as usual.

You’re right. Strength training has numerous benefits on the body, such as increased muscle tone, the burning of more calories at rest, increased bone density and the reduction of the likelihood of injury just to name a few. You could start off with a simple body weight work-out and add a bit of a twist to it by making it an escalating density work-out and you’re onto a winner.

L Renegade row 30 seconds work: 30 seconds rest.

L Split squat 30 seconds work each leg: 30 seconds rest L Push-up variation 30 seconds work: 30 seconds rest L Single leg dead lift 30 seconds work each leg: 30 seconds rest L Mountain climber 30 seconds work: 30 seconds rest Work through from one to five in a circuit format. Work each exercise for 30 seconds and then rest for 30 seconds before moving onto the next. Record how many reps you are able to complete for each exercise and repeat the circuit twice with a 60-second rest in the middle. At the end of the two circuits total up how many reps you have done in the 15 minutes (that’s your density) and aim to beat it next time.

What Mr Fitness James Houghton doesn't know about staying healthy isn't worth knowing. In his seven years as a personal trainer, he's helped West End actresses lose the pounds and worked with the Arabian Gulf rugby sevens team to keep them in peak condition.

wagamama The Greens Tel 04 361 5757 wagamama Al Fattan Towers Tel 04 399 5900 (Open daily noon to midnight, deliveries) www.rmalhospitality.com/wagamama.asp

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 87

SPORT & OUTDOOR

Run with us!

The long, gruelling road to the longest race of our lives (some longer than others) has begun. We’ve talked a good game, we’ve started training – now it’s down to business. Our running guru and veteran of many marathons Chris Miller talks diet, training schedules and why it’s still not too late to run with us!

Right, by now you should have been inspired by last month’s Run with us! column to sign up for the Dubai Marathon, RAK Half Marathon or the Dubai 10km Road Race and started running. But you probably don’t have any idea what you’re doing and might already be wishing you hadn’t committed yourself to such a titanic task.

Do. Not. Fear. Chris Miller is here. Chris is a well-being and fitness consultant at The Energy Clinic in Dubai. He is also a keen runner and veteran of a number of long-distance races. And, if you’ve managed to haul yourself out of bed for one of our free Monday morning What’s On training sessions with Chris at Safa Park, you’d know he’s an encouraging trainer and a nice guy to boot.

So nice in fact that he’s given us these top tips about diet and training.

Diet tips

L Make sure you’re eating some form of

protein with every meal (beans, meat)

L Eat fruit and or vegetables with every meal L Make sure you eat breakfast (something

high in carbohydrates like oats)

L Take Omega three (Norwegian Gold)

and multivitamin supplements (Time For Change) L Start to experiment with sports drinks when running 60 minutes or more

Training schedule (four sessions per week)

1 A long run, progressively increasing the distance each session 2 Run a shorter distance at a faster pace 3 Interval training session (join our free Safa Park sessions, Monday, 6.30am) 4 Strength training session, focusing on legs, hips and core And remember – it’s not too late. “The first time you run a race you’re running to finish it,” says Chris. “There’s plenty of time left to train, even for the marathon.”

RUN WITH US! Join our free weekly What’s On training session with Chris and Mr Fitness at Safa Park, 6.30am every Monday. For more information, contact gareth@motivate.ae. Also keep an eye on our Twitter and Facebook (WhatsOnDubai) for updates and our blog (www.runwhatsonrun.wordpress.com) for more detailed advice.

Tested: Adidas MiCoach Let’s face it, personal trainers are pricey.

Luckily, the re-launched Adidas MiCoach (this one without the need of a Samsung phone) comes with this little fat-busting gizmo. It talks wirelessly to a heart rate monitor and stride sensor, recording your workout stats and giving you access to mountains of data via the MiCoach website.

Just strap the heart rate monitor across your chest, stick the handy Pacer dongle to any pair of runners (it attaches at the laces, so you won’t have to buy specialized shoes) and you’re ready to go. The first time you power the MiCoach up, it will ask you to run a qualifying session where 88 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

you’ll need to walk, jog and sprint at certain intervals. It will then tailor-make your own personal workouts to any fat burning, cardio boosting or distance goals you fancy.

There’s even real-time audio coaching, with the pebble-sized gadget barking orders to'speed up'or 'slow down' as well as delivering handy stats (time, distance, pace) based on your workout. After your run, connect the MiCoach to your computer via USB, and it will give you calories burned, heart rate and intensity stats.

It’s compatible with any MP3 player packing a 3.5mm audio jack, which means Eye Of The Tiger on repeat, right?

Adidas, Mall of the Emirates, Dubai, Dhs495.

Tel: (04) 3477007. www.micoach.com

SPORT & OUTDOOR

Sports shorts Your bite-size guide to the sporting month

What’s this? Zen Zen Yoga instructor Lucy Roberts has plenty to offer this month.

First up, there’s cardiolates – a cunning blend of cardio and Pilates that works the heart and lungs and helps strengthen your core and improve posture (Thursdays 9am). Or if you’re really keen, Lucy is holding five daily sessions between November 21 and 25 at Media City. You can sign up to one for Dhs100 or all five for Dhs450.

Nov 21 to 25, Zen Yoga, Dubai Media City, BBC building 10, Dubai, 7am to 9am, Dhs100 to Dhs450. Tel: (04) 3670425. www.yoga.ae

Masterstrokes Fancy a dip? How about a 1km swim around the Burj Al Arab. Sign up to the Swim Burj Al Arab event, donate Dhs275 to medical organisation Medecins Sans Frontieres, and take part in either the competitive or the family swim from the Burj to Jumeirah Beach Hotel. Go on, it’s all in the name of charity. www.swimburjalarab.com

With Dubai Sports City Cricket Stadium, ICC HQ and Freddie Flintoff turning up in everyone’s local watering hole, Dubai is fast becoming a cricket hot spot. And this month, sports fans, we will be treated to the first test match between Pakistan, who will be looking to put the scandal surrounding their recent disastrous tour of England behind them, and the more settled South Africa – obvious frontrunners. A soft seat cushion, a large and silly hat (the sillier the better) and a few cold ones – there is no better way to spend a sunny day (or five).

Nov 12 to 16, Dubai Sports City, Emirates Road, near Dubai Autodrome, Dubai, free to Dhs150 for five days. Tel: (04) 4251111. www. dubaisportscity.ae

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 89

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Howzat!

The boys line up with

Deputy editor Helen dons an attractive vest

Victory! Friendships are forgotten on the track

JULIANA DOWN What’s On took the boys from Juliana Down go-karting to blow off some steam after being cooped up in the recording studio. The new album, Empires, is out next month – a heavy blend of alternative rock roars and addictive lyrics that is already getting solid air-play on Dubai radio. Lead singer Dia H yelled, “We’re back and

ready to rock!” as he ripped around the track with Sari R (guitar), Vee (bass) and Lionel (keyboards). After already opening for Muse, Justin Timberlake and Velvet Revolver, we reckon 2011 will be the year Juliana Down explode onto the international music scene. www.myspace.com/officialjulianadown NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 91

Shot on location at Dubai Autodrome

everything to race for

CLUB DIARY This month’s mightiest nights in Clubland

5

CTRL @ Catwalk The underground house night returns for another instalment of DJ Afroboogie-led fun, with guest appearances from the Substance and Warped crews.

Catwalk, Golden Tulip, Barsha, Dubai, 9pm to 3am, free. Tel: (050) 4517002 Sundowner Sessions @ Sundowner WEEKLY

Laid-back beats by the pool, courtesy of resident DJ Chris Smith.

Sundowner, Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, 5.30pm to 9pm, free. Tel: (02) 6563053 Terry Francis @ Digital Double bubble from London, as sometime Fabric man Terry Francis takes over Trilogy's main room, while the ever-reliable Norman Jay sets up camp on the Rooftop.

Trilogy, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 9pm to 3am, Dhs130 to Dhs150. Tel: (050) 7258277

6

Play @ Nasimi

WEEKLY

Beach games, happy hour from 3pm to 5pm, barbecue and live Radio 1 broadcast of Schooly's soulful sessions might just be the perfect way to end your weekend.

Atlantis The Palm, Dubai, 3pm to late, free.

Tel: (055) 2004321

10

Ultimate Ladies Night @ Zinc WEEKLY

5

It’s club classics all the way at the popular cabin crew hangout, with more drinks deals than you can shake a FACE card at.

Zinc, Crowne Plaza, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, 10pm to 3am, Dhs75, free for ladies.

Tel: (050) 1515 609

Norman Jay @ Digital

5 MustHaveSoul @ Skylite EW WEEKLY

N

Simon Reid, the man behind soulful dance night MustHaveSoul, bares his own about the new night in Abu Dhabi

GETTY/GALLO IMAGES

12 Mylo @ Digital

92 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

Why the move to the capital? What's the appeal with Skylite?

Once we saw the venue we knew it would work for our style of music. It's not pretentious, has a great location – on the roof of the hotel, overlooking the F1 race track. And it has a great Funktion 1 sound system. We're hoping people from both Abu Dhabi and Dubai will come down, party with us and stay the night. We'll be running a free coach service from Etihad Plaza for Etihad staff, too.

So how do you feel about the city’s scene at the moment?

I feel it’s an untapped market, still

very much in its infancy. All it takes is good music. There are amazing events planned for Yas Island, and it could become a hub for activity for the capital. We hope to be a big part of it.

Who should come to MustHaveSoul @ Skylite?

Everyone is welcome; we're not pretentious. Our parties are all about giving people good music and nights they'll remember. The event is on every Friday so we want people to come down and let their hair down, have a good time, enjoy their surroundings and dance.

And what can we expect tune-wise?

We pride ourselves on our music policy.

People who come to MustHaveSoul can expect the very best in what we call 'soulful dance music'. So expect anything from soul, funk, disco and nu disco, to soulful and deep house music.

Plus, we'll be bringing an international guest once a month.

What are your winter 2010 anthems?

Look out for something very special coming from one of our DJs – Sean McCabe featuring Stephanie Cooke coming soon on Kingstreet Sounds, Also I think Hippie Torrales featuring Rosie Gaines' Never Quite The Same is up there, too.

Sum up MustHaveSoul in five words or less.

Must have good times.

Skylite, The Yas Hotel, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, 4pm to 2am, free, promotional room rate of Dhs550 including breakfast. Tel: (055) 6160643. www.musthavesoul.com

CLUB DIARY 80s @ Stills WEEKLY

DJ Fadi takes you back to the 1980s every Wednesday night. Dig out those legwarmers.

Stills, Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, 8pm to late, free. Tel: (02) 6563053

12

Mylo @ Digital Trilogy continues to ship over the big boys; this time it's Mylo providing the soundtrack for your Friday night. Expect slick electronica, big basslines and a few screaming fans.

Trilogy, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 9pm to 3am, Dhs130 to Dhs150. Tel: (050) 7258277 Acoustic @ Abu Dhabi Gold Club WEEKLY

Acoustic music every Friday night with Danny Shirran.

Abu Dhabi Golf Club, Sas Al Nahkl, Abu Dhabi, 7pm to 10pm, free. Tel; (02) 5588990

13

Just Sundays @ Cavalli Club WEEKLY

Glam clubbing for glam people – expect the music on the commercial side, and the people on the well-to-do side.

Cavalli Club, Fairmont, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, 8pm to late, free. Tel: (04) 3329260

19

Mr Mr’s 30th Birthday @ Audiotonic One of our great musical mates celebrates the big 3-0 with Matthew Charles, Julian Jinx, Vas Floyd and Raxon all taking a turn behind the deck, live on Radio 1.

The birthday boy will also be playing a set at 8pm.

360˚, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (050) 1076405

20

Saturday Night Fever @ Alpha WEEKLY

Retro-loving fun from the Alpha residents, with disco and more on offer.

Alpha, Le Méridien Village, Garhoud, Dubai, 9pm to late, Dhs50, free for ladies and FACE card holders. Tel: (050) 9130165 Grant Nelson @ MustHaveSoul Celebrate MustHaveSoul’s first birthday with special guest Grant Nelson, regarded by many as the pioneer of UK house.

Support from residents Simon Reid, Tristan Bain and Dan Chadwick.

360, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (055) 6160643

25

Norman Doray @ Armani/Prive The man behind Apocalypse spins the tunes for Armani’s ever-glam crowd.

Armani/Prive, Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, Dubai, 10pm to 3am, free. Tel: (04) 8883888 Ministry of Sound @ Barasti Beach A beach-side spectacular with MoS tunes, stilt walkers and fire dancers providing the entertainment, plus giveaways and drink promotions.

Barasti, Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Resort & Spa, Dubai Marina, Dubai, 5pm to 2am, Dhs100, Dhs50 before 10pm, free for ladies.

Tel: (04) 3991313

Layo & Bushwacka @ Digital Breakbeat fun from the UK duo, who are sure to draw a big crowd.

Trilogy, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 9pm to 3am, Dhs130 to Dhs150. Tel: (050) 7258277 Soundwave @ Nasimi The little brother to the mammoth Sandance, this beach party will feature Zane Lowe DJing and Nightmares On Wax with their full live band. Expect sandy fun from afternoon to late.

Atlantis The Palm, Dubai, 2pm to late, price TBC. Tel: (055) 2004321

27

Karizma @ MustHaveSoul The Baltimore-based spinner drops by for a night of house action, backed up ably by Simon Reid, Tristan Bain and Dan Chadwick.

360˚, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (055) 6160643

Mr Mr @ Audiotonic

11 Retrospect @ 360˚

26

Evren Ulusoy @ Audiotonic Turkish delights from Evren, who brings his brand of deep house to the offshore party. Expect backup from Mr Mr, Vas Floyd and Raxon.

360, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 4pm to 2am, free. Tel: (050) 1076405

Martin Rushent, legendary punk, electro and pop producer, has worked with some of the greats. Now in his 60s, with a son in electro band Does It Offend You, Yeah?, we caught up with him ahead of his first trip to Dubai

26 Zane Lowe @ Nasimi

19

What can the 360˚ crowd expect from you?

I’m going to be doing my 1970s and 80s set. A mixture of The Human League, bit of Dexy’s Midnight Runners, Spandau Ballet, Ultravox… a whole range of early 80s artists from ones I’ve produced and some I really love.

You worked with seminal postpunk band Joy Division. How did that come about?

I loved Joy Division. I just thought they were fantastic. I remember going up to see them in Manchester, before anyone had heard of them and they were playing in a tiny little hall above some shops. They were just amazing.

I couldn’t believe it. I told them to come to London immediately to do an album.

So which era do you most fondly remember?

I had a great time in the mid to late 70s with Buzzcocks and The Stranglers. That was a lot of fun and a lot easier than making ‘80s records.

They were touring bands so you just plonked them in the studio; you got a good sound, recorded them, dubbed the vocals, mixed it and went home. Then we moved into the 80s and the machines started to develop – and they were primitive back then and a nightmare to work. I remember thinking “I came into the music industry so I wouldn’t be a bank clerk, typing on a keyboard, and that’s exactly what I’m doing”.

And how do you feel about advancing technologies these days?

I can do things now in five minutes that used to took me a day. I’m well chuffed!

Who are you working with now?

The band I’ve just finished working on are The Pipettes. Very pop and the other end of the playing field to Does It Offend You, Yeah?. They had an album out a while ago, very gimmicky, but they’ve made lots of changes.

People react to it like Marmite – either thinking it’s the greatest pop album ever made, or they just hate it.

Many industry insiders have called you a pioneer. How do you feel about that?

I think they’re dead right! There weren’t many of us doing it back in the day and over the last 20 years I’ve been listening to electro and dance and they’re still using little tricks that I developed back in the 80s. The remarkable thing is when I meet real heroes of mine, like Grandmaster Flash, and they say I was the biggest influence on their work. It’s amazing.

360˚, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, 8pm to late, free. Tel: (050) 2269440. www.myspace.com/mrushent.

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 93

Win with What What’ss On ISTOCK

ON M CLICHKMOTIVATE.CDOS

A IT ND LO .WINW WWW TER THIS A ITIONS N T E E P O T COM MORE

WIN! A MONTH OF TRX CLASSES TRX is the latest exercise craze, and we have a month of unlimited classes at The Aviation Club to give away. The dynamic sessions involve equipment suspended from the ceiling, so you use your body weight to build strength and flexibility, while controlling difficulty. If you fancy a month of free full body work-outs, then answer this question…

TRX was developed by a military man. Was he a… a) Navy SEAL b) Navy Dolphin c) Navy Manatee

WIN! BRUNCH AT ARMANI/ HASHI PLUS A SIGNATURE TREATMENT AT ARMANI/SPA

Italian-style luxury is within reach with this amazing prize. The winner can enjoy brunch for two at Hashi, Armani’s stunning Japanese restaurant, complete with sushi buffet, Robati grills, a la carte mains and Bollinger (see out review on page 59). They will also receive a 90-minute Crema Nera signature treatment in Armani/Spa, one of Dubai’s most stylish urban retreats. To be in with a chance of winning this five-star experience, simply tell us: What is Mr Armani’s first name? a) George b) Giorgio c) Gino

94 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

WIN! A BARBECUE NIGHT FOR SIX You and five chums could be enjoying an evening of meaty, charred goodness (with drinks to wash it down) at the new cook out night at City Centre Hotel & Residence. Every Friday and Saturday night there’s lamb chops, steaks, jumbo prawns and more on the barbie, plus salads and desserts with live entertainment from the resident songsters. If you’d like to give it a try, you’ll have to get this question right: Which of the following are you unlikely to find on a barbecue? a) Burger b) Kebab c) Lemon sorbet

THE MAKING OF A MARQUE 2010

06.11

What makes a great marque an icon? Passion, emotion, innovation and a thoroughbred race heritage.

Invitation: @V\ HYL PU]P[LK [V ^P[ULZZ H ZLSLJ[PVU VM ZL]LYHS JSHZZPJ 7VYZJOL PJVUZ Ă…V^U PU

from the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart, Germany. Exhibited in Dubai for one day only, do not miss this chance to embark on a journey into the legendary Porsche history.

Date:

Saturday, 6th November 2010

Time:

From 12:00 pm onwards

Venue: Porsche Centre Dubai

1st interchange Sheikh Zayed Road, near Mazaya Centre

www.porschedubai.com

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TRAVEL

p99 Wild at heart p104 Island fever p108 Travels with....

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 97

Family Fun Day. BBQ-on-the-lawn.

Saturdays are Fun days, thanks to the Saadiyat Beach Golf Club’s very own hawksbill restaurant!

Starting from the 23rd October, and running every Saturday until the 27th November, you can eat as much as you can at our BBQ on the lawn.

There’ll be jumping castles, face painting, kids’ golf and a variety of games, with loads of prizes to be won.

And as if the BBQ wasn’t enough, there will also be popcorn, candy floss, hotdogs and corn-on-the-cob to fill those empty spaces!

The Fun Day runs from midday until 5pm, whilst the BBQ – which costs AED80 per person – concludes at 3pm.

We look forward to welcoming you all to what promises to be a great day out for the entire family. We’re only minutes away from Abu Dhabi’s Corniche, and there is ample parking available.

For all reservations please telephone 02 499 8107 or email fb@sbgolfclub.ae Visit us at www.sbgolfclub.ae

TRAVEL | CATALONIA

Wild at heart

From bustling Barcelona to tiny fishing villages near the French border, northern Catalonia has something for everyone – in almost every language.

What’s On takes a tour of Spain’s ‘Wild Coast’

LONG HAUL

“Bonjour Mesdames!” The hotel receptionist is smiling brightly, but we are perplexed.

Travel can feel discombobulating at the best of times, but even allowing for jet lag and time differences we take pride in at least knowing what country we’re in. “Bonjour Mesdames,” she tries again, her smile a little tighter. We glance, faintly baffled, at one another before shrugging and offering a muffled “bonjour” in reply.

We are standing in the lobby of the Hotel Duran in the Catalonian city of Figueres, northern Spain. Fittingly for a city that is the birthplace of Salvador Dali, the experience thus far is shaping up to be decidedly surreal – why is the Spanish receptionist in a Spanish hotel speaking to us, clearly a couple of native English speakers, in French?

The answer is quite simply geography.

Figueres may lie 30km inland from the French border on the northern Costa Brava (‘Wild Coast’), but it shares some of the traits of its Gallic neighbours including, we’re discovering, a certain freedom with the language. Around these parts, French and Spanish are mixed and mingled with dextrous ease. That’s when they’re not all speaking the official second language, Catalan.

Confused? There’s no need to be.

Spanish geo-politics may baffle (there are 17 autonomous communities within the

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Costa Brava seascape

Barcelona's Parc Guell at sunset NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 99

TRAVEL | CATALONIA

Three more reasons to visit the Costa Brava El Bulli Consistently voted one of the world's best restaurants, Ferran Adria’s El Bulli restaurant is a short drive from the resort town of Roses.

The chef who put the gastro into molecular gastronomy has announced that next year (it only opens from June to December) will be the restaurant’s last. Get on the waiting list now. www.elbulli.com Empúries This ancient city on the Gulf of Roses was founded by the Phoenicians in 600BC. After them, the Greeks and Romans both had their turn. The result? Ruins from each of the three cultures can be seen here, including stunning floor mosaics and the layout of the original Greek harbour.

Girona Northern Catalonia’s second city offers all the trappings of urban life – culture, fine dining and enough shopping opportunities to make your bank manager weep – at a considerably more relaxed pace than Barcelona.

Kingdom of Spain, of which Catalonia is one), but the best way for the average visitor to approach anything is to simply go with the flow.

In Figueres the flow goes pretty firmly in one direction – this is a city that is all about its most famous son. From the props and drawings that adorn the Hotel Duran’s walls to the mind-boggling theatricality of the Dali Theatre-Museum, in this – frankly otherwise unlovely – place there’s no escaping Salvador Dali. The great Surrealist conceived the museum as his gift to his hometown and it would seem that it is one that just keeps on giving – visitors flock in their thousands to visit it every year.

Dali also looms large in the pretty town of Cadaqués , about an hour’s drive up the coast.

The artist spent his childhood summers here and later settled into a home nearby in the tiny fishing village of Port Lligat. If you haven’t had enough of the moustachioed one’s personal proclivities (we’ll say no more about the decidedly dodgy swimming pool), you can join the merry band of tourists on the next leg of their Dali-homage. Either way, make sure you leave plenty of time to explore Cadaqués.

There are some places that defy description and this is one. Almost everyone we meet tells us this town is special, but no one quite manages to put it into words. We’re none the wiser after a visit to Cadaqués Museum where Cecelia Baldes, who moved to the town from her native Barcelona 20 years ago, explains the town’s je ne sais quoi in 100 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

Girona

TRAVEL | CATALONIA

terms of a particularly magical “energy”. “You either really love this place or you feel nothing,” she adds.

“It’s not in the middle.”

Certainly, Cadaqués’ beauty is undeniable: whitewashed stone houses with terracotta tiled roofs are piled around the kind of picture-perfect horseshoe bay of which postcards are made. The town was, until relatively recently, only reachable by sea and even today, dozens of boats, big and small, continue to bob in the bay. This remoteness played no small part in allowing the town to escape the high-rise building boom that has blighted much of the rest of the Costa Brava in recent decades.

But it takes more than that to attract the stream of artists who, since Picasso visited 100 years ago, have been making A steady pilgrimage to the town (it boasts more art galleries per square metre than anywhere else in Spain). Or to explain how Chinese developers became so enchanted with the place that plans to build an exact replica of it over a 100-acre site in Xiamen Bay – allowing Chinese holidaymakers to get a whiff of the town’s magic without ever having to get their passports stamped – are currently underway.

We leave the Cadaqués conundrum to the experts, choosing instead to spend a couple of days soaking up its charms, no questions asked.

This involves a day walking around the Cap de Creus peninsula watching waves crash and seagulls soar up and over the rocky headland, another spent puttering gently by boat in and out of quiet

Top: View of Costa Brava’s beaches and villages Above right: Casa Batlló

neighbouring bays, and hours lolling indulgently on the town’s tiny, pebbled beach. By night we hop the many bars and restaurants that line the waterfront, grazing on tapas at the strip’s open-air restaurants and tapping our feet to live bands at L’Hostal, a dimly-lit dive that counts Mick Jagger and Nobel Prize-winning author Gabriella Garcia Marquez among its guests. Whatever the key to Cadaqués’ mysterious energy may be, we are entranced.

So it’s a shock, four days and three hours travelling time later, to find ourselves pulling into Barcelona’s Passeig de Gracia station to be confronted with the push and pull of city life.

Barcelona is arguably Spain’s most vibrant city. It certainly takes the award for its most eccentric.

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 101

TRAVEL | CATALONIA The village of Cadaques

Santa Maria church

Our first sight upon leaving the station is the writhing, skeletal artistry of Casa Battló (casabattlo.es), a private house designed by Antoni Gaudi, the architect whose stillunfinished cathedral, La Sagrada Familia, serves as architectural mascot for the city and remains its most visited attraction.

Further quirks abound over in Montjuïc Park where 4,500 pastel-coloured lightbulbs and many thousand litres of water nightly bring the Font Màgica de Montjuïc (that’s Magic Fountain to you and me) to life. Eat your heart out Dubai Fountain – this baby is kitsch with a capital ‘K’.

But Barcelona is as sophisticated as it is idiosyncratic. With time short, we stop for a quick coffee in the magnificent Boqueria indoor food market on La Rambla before heading to the Gothic Quarter to wander through its narrow cobbled streets, pay 102 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

homage to Picasso (the artist spent his youth in the city and is honoured with his own museum on Calle Montcada) and gorge on tapas at legendary local favourite Cal Pep’s zinc-topped bar. From there it’s a short stroll down to stylish charms of Barceloneta. This once working class neighbourhood was given a makeover for the Olympics in 1992 and hasn’t looked back since. Now it’s all smart apartments and beachfront bars, a place where bathing beauties cycle and rollerblade the waterfront by day and live la vida loca by night.

The newest jewel in the city’s style crown, however, is a further short stroll south.

Designed by famed local architect Ricardo Bofill, the sail-shaped W Hotel has been called the city’s answer to the Burj Al Arab.

Pitch up poolside and you’ll be treated to magnificent views over the Mediterranean, fine cocktails and an absurdly pretty crowd of fellow loungers. We settle in, order a signature wet mojito and raise a glass. Finally, a language we fully understand.

Need to know Getting there Emirates flies daily from Dubai to Barcelona via Madrid from Dhs4,300 in November Accommodation L Hotel Duran, Figueres. Tel: (+34) 972501250. www.hotelduran.com L Salvador Dali’s hometown is good base for visiting spots along the northern Costa Brava L W Hotel Barcelona. Tel: (+34) 932952800. www.whotels.com.barcelona Spain’s hottest new hotel opening, bar none

La Sagrada Familia catherdral in Barcelona

Currency 1 Euro = Dhs5.1

TRAVEL | SRI LANKA

Island fever

SHORT HAUL

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Lazing, surfing, strolling and eating, Sri Lanka’s southern shores offer our very own The Critic, James Brennan, idyllic respite from city life I’m in the classic beach holiday position. Feet up, pointing towards the sea. Head down, peering up through gently whispering palm fronds at a powdery blue sky. My right hand is toying idly with caster-sugar sand, and my left appears to have merged with the atoms, floating somewhere in time and space. Waves crash up against megalithic rocks that emerge from the water like prehistoric beached whales. The rhythmic swoosh of the tide has soothed me into a state of stupefied bliss.

Thing is, I hate beach holidays.

Under normal circumstances, the mere suggestion of a beach holiday would have me reaching for a Trans-Siberian Railway timetable or a map of the West Papuan rainforest.

The brain-blotting torpor of just lying there on a stretch of granulated rock, clutching a John Grisham novel and waiting for the sun to turn me into a human glow stick doesn’t usually appeal. But then there’s Sri Lanka.

I first visited the teardrop-shaped island to the south east of India in 2006. It was almost two years after the Boxing Day tsunami claimed thousands of lives and devastated communities along its east and south coasts.

The country was still in the grip of a long and violent civil war, yet I found the indomitable spirit and friendliness of the people instantly endearing. But it was the raw natural beauty of the southern coastal areas around Galle and Unawatuna that poked a hole through my prejudice.

104 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

Now the civil war is over and I’m back in Sri Lanka, enjoying the beaches again.

I’m lounging at Dalawella, a quiet stretch of guesthouses and mini-resorts just south of Unawatuna along the Galle-Matara coast road. Here the shore is as serene and idyllic as the laws of nature can allow. All that travel stress – from airport hassles to the four-hour night-drive from Colombo – peels away with each majestic rush of seawater. Did you know more people are killed each year by falling coconuts than shark attacks? Well, that’s all I have to worry about right now. I glance up at the tall palms overhead. No coconuts. As you were.

The beauty of this particular beach holiday, above most others, is that you can easily find a pace to suit your mood. When the most you can be bothered to do is perspire and reach for ice cold drinks, Dalawella is perfect. You can just lie there, luxuriating in the gentle sea breeze as tiny hermit crabs scurry over the rocks, and fishermen cast their lines from stilt poles driven into the seabed. They sit patiently for hours on wooden cross beams a few feet above the sea, motionless so as not to disturb the fish. The sun goes down drowsily, like an old man getting into bed.

When you feel like upping the tempo from such bone-idle inertia to something a little more invigorating, there’s Unawatuna.

Slightly more developed than Dalawella, and just a few minutes away by tuk-tuk, Unawatuna’s beaches are busier, but no less beautiful. Scattered around a network of quiet lanes set back off the main road, there’s a range of accommodation here, from cheap B&Bs, to all-inclusive resorts. There are beachside cafes, bars and restaurants to flit between after sunset and, while the vibe is suitably sleepy, there are plenty of opportunities to socialise with locals and fellow lazy travellers.

Above: The view from Galle lighthouse Right: An idyllic Sri Lankan beach

TRAVEL | SRI LANKA

The most stressful thing you might do here is haggle with a tuk-tuk driver over fare. A return trip along the coast road, past Dalawella to Koggala and Ahangama, should cost you no more than five hundred Rupees.

And there’s good reason to make the short journey. The white sandy beaches get even more picturesque along the way. A haven for wildlife, Koggala Lake attracts a rainbow of exotic birds, and the nearby Ananda spice garden provides the opportunity to stock up on citronella oil to ward off the inevitable squadrons of mosquitoes.

Should you really wish to get the blood pumping, Ahangama is to the surfer what Dalawella is to the beach slouch. There are precious few attractions here other than the galloping waves, so it’s hardly ever crowded

and you can ride those breakers until you run out of surf wax. If you haven’t already spotted them trying to dodge your board in the water, you can visit the nearby Sea Turtle Farm & Hatchery, where baby turtles are nurtured and released safely back into the sea.

After a few days of somnambulistic pottering around the beaches of Dalawella and Unawatuna, I head to the town of Galle, a few miles down the coast. As my tuk-tuk driver threads through a mesh of growling buses and chugging lorries, I feel my heartbeat readjusting to the rhythm of town life. Galle’s new town is a Stockhausen symphony of car horns, motors and urban noise. It’s the cranking engine room of the region, vibrant with life, but hardly the most attractive spot on the coast. Galle’s old town, however, is an NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 105

TRAVEL | SRI LANKA

Where to stay DALAWELLA SRI GEMUNU For the laziest phase of your holiday, the relaxed simplicity of this colonialstyle beachfront hotel will hit the spot perfectly. Rooms with air conditioning are fine, but the sea-facing fan-only rooms are just as good, especially when you open the shutters and let the gentle breeze and crashing waves lull you to sleep at night.

Just try not to sleep too much during the day. www.sri-lanka-resort.com altogether more alluring prospect.

The Galle Fort was completed by Dutch colonialists in the late 17th century, and is now a Unesco World Heritage Site. Tracing a peninsula overlooking the old harbour, the sturdy ramparts stood resolute against the 2004 tsunami, while much of the new city outside the walls was destroyed. As a result, restoration work on many of the old Dutch houses and administrative buildings inside the fort carried on unimpeded, and some have been returned to their former pomp.

The Galle Fort Hotel was a gem merchant’s mansion that was saved from ruin by two Australian entrepreneurs and transformed into one of the best colonial-style boutique hotels in Asia. Its faithfully restored exterior is certainly befitting of the best-preserved colonial sea fort on the entire continent.

But it’s the dark-wooden splendour of the interior that evokes a sense of a golden age of travel – where sundowners can be sipped on the terrace as the day wraps itself up in the purr of the ceiling fans. I make it my base to explore the old town.

The next morning I amble through the snug streets of the fort, admiring the historically sensitive restorations here and there, but also the crumbling old facades that have been untouched for centuries. The fort I visited in 2006 was a deathly quiet, drab and slightly unwelcoming place with few tourists. Now it’s a thriving and colourful working community with shops, museums, schools and places of worship. Walking past the peeling walls of the old police station, I peek through the door of the local Vice Squad. In the deserted office, the walls display faded newspaper clippings 106 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

UNAWATUNA UNAWATUNA BEACH RESORT With its family swimming pool, tennis courts and lively bar area, this is the place to come if you’re looking to interact with other human beings. An all-inclusive package means that don’t have to leave the complex, but tuk-tuks are available outside when cabin fever finally sets in. www.unawatunabeachresort.com

GALLE GALLE FORT HOTEL Karl Steinberg and Christopher Ong’s renovated Dutch mansion house is a masterpiece of colonial restoration. A template for any would-be hotelier who’s thinking of transforming a rundown property into something truly magical, this boutique hotel gets it spot on, from the stately reception rooms to the serene swimming pool and the classically styled rooms. If it wasn’t so neatly done, it might resemble an upmarket auctioneers, there are so many beautiful antiques scattered about the place. But should a particular piece catch your eye, our friendly proprietors will gladly listen to offers. www.galleforthotel.com

Fishermen fishing on stilts in Koggala

Seeing the town in a tuk tuk

Need to know

of past cases cracked, while an old Adler typewriter waits on a spartan desk. It’s like an exhibit in a museum, but then so are most things in Galle Fort.

I follow a path that hugs the ancient walls to where a 1930s art deco lighthouse stands over the Point Utrecht Bastion. From there I continue along Hospital Street to the National Maritime Archaeology Museum, which has recently reopened after a hefty donation from the Dutch government. From ships’ wheels to old compasses, the museum displays a raft of exhibits salvaged from the many wrecked vessels that surround the Galle promontory.

Like my beach-holiday preconceptions, they had been dashed on the rocks of Sri Lanka’s stunning southwest tip.

Where to eat Galle Fort Hotel It’s that place again. We wouldn’t be recommending it if it wasn’t truly exceptional, but it is. The setting, overlooking the softly lit courtyard swimming pool, is perfect and the food is just as good. The menu changes every day, but you can be sure of superbly executed home-made Asian fusion food with Sri Lankan flourishes, from crumbling crab cakes to icy fruit sorbets.

How to get there L FlyDubai direct to Colombo, from Dhs700 L Transfers by taxi can be arranged through hotels, or you can negotiate with drivers at the airport Currency 100 Sri Lankan Rupees = 3.25 Dirhams

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TRAVEL | TRAVELS WITH...

Travels with…

Adrian Hayes

What’s the best holiday you’ve ever had?

That’s a difficult one, but I guess Krabi in Thailand. Sun, sand, sea and, erm, rock climbing. Seriously, it’s such a stunning location that I went three times in 18 months a few years back.

What’s been your biggest travel disaster?

A small team and myself were doing some diving work for the Fijian government and I’d planned a four-day sport diving stopover in Guam on the way back to Hong Kong.

I arrived in Guam with a heavily swollen, poisoned foot – somehow incurred in the last week in Fiji – and, turning up at the US military base for some medication, was hospitalised for the full four days whilst they worked out what it was. They eventually put

A trio of deals for the thrifty traveller PACK FOR PHUKET Luxury Hotels by Dnata has just gained a new property and the Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket is offering some alluring opening rates. Located on Karon Beach, all rooms have sea views and the property boasts four swimming pools, a tennis court and spa. Just Dhs554 for a deluxe room and Dhs1,157 for a luxury pool suite. Based on double occupancy, the offer is valid to December 24. www.dnata.com 108 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

HOT FIVE It seems discount airfares are all the rage in the UAE at the moment, and Etihad has five of the very best to rouse your winter wanderlust.

Fly economy to Bangkok (Dhs1,895), Kuala Lumpur (Dhs1,905), Frankfurt (Dhs2,435), Munich (Dhs2,525) and London (Dhs2,505) without straining the bank balance. The offer is valid to December 31 and you can travel to March 2011. We’re thinking a cheeky long weekend in Munich would quell the postChristmas January blues nicely. www.etihadairways.com

my whole leg in plaster. But I went back to Guam a few years later to make amends.

If you could advise people to visit one destination what would it be?

Nepal. Do a mountain trek amidst some of the most stunning scenery and the friendliest people on the planet. And see how it changes your perspective on your home country.

What are your three top tips for surviving a long airport stopover?

Always have something to read. A small stuff sack with eyeshades and ear plugs goes with me everywhere, along with a small air pillow. I can sleep on any aircraft, noisy bar or even a ditch with something for the neck, eyes and ears.

What item do you never travel without?

A fold up toothbrush and small tube of paste.

Disgusting as it may seem, I’ve gone for 70 days without washing at all and am pleased to report you suffer no ill effects whatsoever. Your teeth, however, is the one exception.

What destination serves the best food?

I love Indian food, so anything and anywhere in the sub continent. www.adrianhayes.com

“I’ve gone for 70 days without washing at all”

WINTER WONDERLAND We look forward to the launch of the Emirates Holidays Ski & Winter Holidays brochure. We can’t ski, but we really like looking at the pictures of snow-capped peaks and be-goggled skiers gliding down snow-blanketed European mountainsides with seeming ease. For us any attempt at recreating this feat would end in broken bones, so the Dhs3,562 package to Innsbruck, Switzerland is more our speed. Economy flights from Dubai to Munich and three nights accommodation and breakfast. Valid to March 31, 2011. www.emirates-holidays.com

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UAE-based polar explorer Adrian Hayes holds the record for reaching the North Pole, South Pole and Mount Everest in the quickest time. Having travelled to more than 100 countries, he knows a thing or two about taking a trip. As he prepares for two major expeditions in 2011, the British adventurer proffers some of his hard won travel wisdom

TRAVEL EXTRA

We may be renowned for our pristine golf courses.

But our course of choice

is served off the green.

You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be a golfer to enjoy a meal on the stunning grounds of the Yas Links Abu Dhabi on Yas Island. From delicately prepared spiced duck breast and pan-seared foie gras at Barranca, to the celebratory ambience of a bite with the boys at Hickoryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sports Bar; indulge in a little taste of the good life. And let our award-winning chefs show you what it means to dine with a difference.

For enquiries and reservations, please contact +971 2 810 7777 or visit www.yaslinks.com

THE HOT LIST Key New entry Non-mover Up

p113 p117 p121 p125

Bars Restaurants Brunches Spas NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 111

LA PETITE MAISON

Down

THE HOT LIST BARS

Caramel

ATMOSPHERE

1

Caramel

2 360˚

„

3 Barasti

4

Belgian Beer Café

5

Armani/ Prive

LOCATION

THE FINEST FOR BEVERAGES AND BITES

Zuma

Belgian Beer Café

BEST FOR

PRICE

Consistently full of DIFC types, post-work, and the beautiful people later on. Come Friday, you’d better book a table.

The leafy terrace offers welcome respite from the concrete jungle beyond. We’ll be there on Friday afternoons for the new late brunch.

Ideal for after-office cocktails that morph into dinner.

Next thing you know, it's midnight.

Trust us, we've been there. More than a few times.

It’s not cheap (hardly surprising for DIFC), but ladies get half price Cosmos on Tuesdays from 6pm to 9pm.

Fridays start chilled, with lazing on sofas shisha at hand.

Then darkness falls, the music rises and the off-shore party begins.

Slap bang in the Arabian Gulf, 360˚ is accessed by golf buggy (or walking if you prefer, but that’s not very Dubai is it?).

Posing, posing and more posing to top tunes. Saturdays are a bit more laid-back though.

After a long, hot summer it’s finally bearable out there, so pull up a day bed and order a frozen cocktail.

Right on the sand, Barasti is a multilevel venue with live music, beds on the beach and hordes around the pool, hoping they won’t get pushed in.

Full of friends sharing food at tables, couples drinking on the terrace and chaps at the bar enjoying some post-work jars.

Tres swank indeed.

There’s the world’s largest LED screen for crying out loud, not to mention those illuminated booths and the newly opened terrace.

WHAT’S ON SAYS...

INFO

Mini lobster tacos, mac'n'cheese and martinis.

What else can we say?

Building 3, DIFC, Dubai, Sun to Thurs 11am to 2am.

Tel: (04) 4256677. www.carameldubai. com

Pretty expensive – especially if you make a day and night of it.

Guaranteed to wow, we're willing to overlook the service for the views.

Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Al Sufouh, Dubai, Sun to Thurs 5pm to late, Fri and Sat 4pm to 2am. Tel: (04) 4068769

There’s always a familiar face at Barasti – we defy you to go and not bump into someone you know.

Annoyingly expensive for such a casual bar, Barasti must be raking it in.

Love it or hate it, you know you’ll be there soon.

Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Resort & Spa, Dubai Marina, Dubai, 11am to 2am.

Tel: (04) 3993333. www.lemeridienminaseyahi.com

An evening on the terrace will relax even the most distressed Dubai dweller. This Festival City pub offers valet parking, too.

Fantastic food, extensive drinks list, cosy design and that European vibe will win your heart.

Some of the beers are pricey, but there are budget options and the food is reasonable.

A cold drink on a balmy night looking at the city? See you on the terrace.

Crowne Plaza Festival City, Dubai, Sun to Mon 6pm to 2am, Tue to Wed noon to 2am, Thurs and Fri noon to 3am. Tel: (04) 7012222. www.ichotelsgroup. com

The Armani hotel in the world’s tallest building. The hottest address in town. Dress up.

Top quality people watching and dropping your dirhams faster than you can gasp 'how much?'

As steep as the Burj Khalifa. We paid Dhs400 for three drinks.

The terrace and DJ line up could well propel Prive up the Hot List.

Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, Old Town, Dubai, Mon to Sat 10pm to 3am. Tel: (04) 8883888. www.armanihotels. com

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 113

HOT ON THE HErkEHyaLttSDubai

BARS

ace, Pa 11 The Terr tion Club ge, The Avia 12 Irish Villa t Club & Marina 13 The Yach The Westin 14 Senyar, lam r, Mina A’Sa Ba i hr Ba 15

Neos

ATMOSPHERE

6 Zuma

7 Blends

8

Left Bank

9

The Gramercy

10 Neos

360˚

LOCATION

BEST FOR

PRICE

It might primarily be a restaurant, but the upstairs bar and terrace are buzzing with work hard, play hard types.

Zuma was one of the first residents in this new nightlife hub and it certainly set the standard.

Getting dolled up and feeling grown up, before enjoying a few sakes.

You’ll pay top drawer for a drink at this world-class bar, but choose wisely (mojitos aren’t too pricey) and you’ll emerge relatively unscathed.

Packed come Thursday and more chilled during the week, Blends has shot up the Hot List for its people pleasing.

In the middle of the Marina, this is the city-style bar this area was crying out for.

The deals. Ladies get complimentary Cosmos on Thursdays and Fridays (8pm to 11pm). Freebies in a smart bar are a rare find.

Despite the midnight finish (boo), Left Bank is still a reliable choice for a casual date or impromptu night out.

Old Town is an easy option for most, adding to Left Bank’s peoplepleasing charm.

Where else in Dubai can you eat lobster while watching the English Premiership?

Neos is dominated by a jaw-dropping window, shiny art deco pillars and a large bar. It attracts a well-heeled crowd so don’t expect a rowdy night.

114 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

The Gramercy

WHAT’S ON SAYS...

INFO

We adore Zuma for its slick space, hot staff and cool crowd.

We can’t stay away.

Building 6, DIFC, Dubai, Fri to Wed noon to 2am, Thurs noon to 3am. Tel: (04) 4255660. www.zumarestaurant. com

Mid-range – unless you’re a lady and it’s the weekend, in which case leave your purse at home.

Can be a bit of a meat market, but maybe you like that. No judging here.

The Address Dubai Mall, Dubai, 7.30pm to 2.30am. Tel: (04) 4367777. www.theaddress.com

Cocktails, bar nibbles and meeting people.

Commandeer a booth or nab a high table near the bar and see who you bump into.

Top quality cocktails will set you back about Dhs50, while snacks are pricey.

But who can resist mini burgers after a few drinks?

Left Bank is suitably swank, without being intimidating.

Souk Al Bahar, Old Town, Dubai, 7pm to midnight. Tel: (04) 3684501

The Gramercy adds a cosy touch to DIFC, with warm wood, chandeliers and raised booths.

Nab one of them, quick.

The perfect place to head after work for some garlicky snails and glass of crisp white. Or beer and a burger.

Generally not too bad, but some of the new additions to the menu are on the pricey side.

Choose wisely.

A NYC-style hangout, with Noo Yawker Anthony at the helm.

Unit 7, Level 2, Building 3, DIFC, Dubai, noon to midnight. Tel: (04) 4377511

On the 63rd floor of The Address Downtown and you’ll need to take two lifts to reach Neos’ lofty, luxurious heights.

Those views reduce almost everyone to tourists with their noses crushed against the glass, martini in hand.

Drink slowly and stay away from spirits.

Take visitors or business contacts. They'll be impressed.

The Address Downtown Dubai, Dubai, 6pm to 2.30am.

Tel: (04) 4368927. www.theaddress.com

OCTOBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 114

CHILLED OUT REGGAE VIBES MOUTH-WATERING CARIBBEAN SIZZLE

The Address

FOR A SULTRY SATURDAY

Welcome to Sultry Saturdays at Cabana, with our all-new Caribbean

BBQ featuring spicy island delights and optional pool access.

Chill by the water with reggae vibes and indulge in our chef’s BBQ feast including grilled firecracker prawns, a live chicken Fajita station and fresh island salads – served up with stunning views of the world’s tallest building. Come on down and feel the rhythm Cabana-style, with Sultry Saturdays at The Address Dubai Mall.

Every Saturday: 12.30pm – 4.30pm Dhs 155 or Dhs 245 with selected house beverages Pool access: Dhs 100 per person T +971 4 438 8999 DINE.DUBAIMALL@THEADDRESS.COM WWW.THE ADDRESS.COM

A BUSINESS HOTEL THAT SPECIALIZES IN ASIAN TASTE. HOW COME?

When it comes to Asian cooking, we mean business.

Welcome to Cristal Hotel.

For the executive who still can’t quite manage to perfect chopsticks, an Asian buffet in GEMS RESTAURANT for only AED 99*, guarantees you’ll have no problems eating as much as you like (optional knife and fork provided).

Call us a Hotel if you want, we prefer to be thought of as dynamic hospitality.

Try us, you will enjoy.

Call 02 652 0000 Zayed the 1st Street, adjacent to Madinat Zayed Shopping Centre Web: cristalhotelsandresorts.com * Subject to 10% service charge and 6% tourism fee

DYNAMIC HOSPITALITY

THE HOT LIST

THE ELITE OF THE EATING OUT SCENE

RESTAURANTS West 14th

Rhodes Twenty10

La Petite Maison

ATMOSPHERE

1

La Petite Maison

2 Zuma

3

Indego by Vineet

4

Rivington Grill

5 Verre

MARCH 2010 WHAT’S ON 117

INTERIOR

FOOD

LOCATION

PRICE

WHAT’S ON SAYS...

The best you’ll find in Dubai.

Tables at LPM have been in demand since day one.

White panelled walls with moulding aplenty, contemporary artworks dotted about, dark, bare wood floors and a long bar.

French, or more specifically Niçoise (from Nice), with sharing encouraged.

DIFC. Home to the two restaurants heading up the Hot List.

We ordered too much and paid Dhs930 (without alcohol), but two could easily eat well for Dhs650 (without alcohol).

It will be interesting to see how Dubai’s foremost Japanese reacts to its sister restaurant, LPM, taking the top spot.

Light and bright with the minimum of fuss. Make your way upstairs for after dinner drinks.

Chef Colin Clague ensures that the menu never becomes boring. Order the veal cutlet.

DIFC, now home to our two favourite restaurants.

Dhs1,000 for two. The Ebisu Express lunch menu (miso plus main) is Dhs62, or the Ebisu (miso plus three courses) is Dhs120.

Knocked off the top spot, but it will always be Dubai’s best Japanese restaurant.

Building 6, Gate Village, DIFC, Sat to Thurs 12.30pm to 3pm, Sat to Wed 7pm to midnight, Thurs and Fri 7pm to 1am. Tel: (04) 4255660. www. zumarestaurant. com

Pleasant and inviting. The waiting staff represent the pinnacle of politeness.

Statues of golden gods and a cabinet of shoes, but other than that it’s comfortable European-style fine dining.

Having met up with Vineet to discuss the revamped menu, we booked a table.

See our verdict, p52.

Still at Grosvenor House. There’s a lovely terrace for a pre or post-dinner drink.

Dhs900 (without alcohol), which for this level of fine dining is well worth it.

Dining at Indego this month reminded us just what Vineet Bhatia has done for Indian cuisine.

Grosvenor House, Dubai Marina, Dubai, Sun to Thurs 7pm to 11pm. Tel: (04) 3176000. www. grosvenorhousedubai.com

Buzzing, as ever. Even we – yes, us – were forced to accept a second sitting recently.

Humph…

White walls, dark wood floors and a chalkboard advertising the daily specials.

Always check the specials board. Don’t miss the Riv’s Dhs80 and Dhs100 lunch menus.

At this time of year primedining territory is on the terrace.

Overlooking the Dubai Fountain.

Dhs400 for two.

RG is still one of our most regular spots for dinner and always a safe bet for an enjoyable meal.

Souk Al Bahar, Old Town, Dubai, Sun to Wed noon to 11pm, Thurs to Sat noon to 11.30pm.

Tel: (04) 4230903. www. rivingtongrill.ae

Personable restaurant manager Alex Gomez keeps things ticking over nicely.

Understated and shipshape – the very model of a modern fine dining restaurant.

Special occassion? Go for the chef’s table. If not, order the beef Wellington

Deira, but it’s worth the taxi ride.

Dhs395 for three courses, Dhs495 for the six-course menu, Dhs695 for the chef's table.

Chef Scott Price is a guaranteed safe pair of hands.

See our full verdict, p48

INFO

DIFC, Gate Village 8, Dubai, Sun to Fri noon to 2.30pm and 7pm to 11pm. Tel: (04) 4390505. www. lpmdubai.ae

Hilton Dubai Creek, Sun to Fri 7pm to 11.30pm. Tel: (04) 2277550. www. gordonramsay. com

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 117

HOT ON THEodesHMEezEzaLniSne

RESTAURANTS

11 Rh Ristorante 12 Armani 13 Margaux rma 14 Terra Fi 15 Asado

Reflets Par Pierre Gagnaire’s

PRICE ON ATMOSPHERE WHAT’S INTERIOR SAYS...

6

West 14th

7 Traiteur

8

Reflets Par Pierre Gagnaire’s

9

Rhodes Twenty10

10 Okku

INFO FOOD

LOCATION

PRICE

Okku

WHAT’S ON SAYS...

INFO

Upmarket New York steakhouse, with an open kitchen and warm, inviting lighting.

There’s exposed brick in the gents’ toilet.

We’re talking cool, stylish and sexy.

Go for the 300g Australian rib eye – beautiful – and choose the biggest knife from the four on offer.

Oceana Beach Club is not easy to find. Suffice to say it’s on The Palm. Print out the map on the website.

Dhs550 for two without alcohol, making it cheaper than your average Dubai steakhouse.

If you’re looking for Dubai’s best steakhouse, here it is.

Oceana Beach Club, The Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, noon to 3pm and 6pm to midnight Tel: (04) 4477601. www. west14th.ae

Chef Franck Detrait’s new menu is sure to attract the hoards this month, but Traiteur is still the ideal place for a romantic rendezvous.

Contemporary sophistication.

An open kitchen and a vaulted ceiling that is one of the most unforgettable design features in the city.

The new menu promises some exciting dishes, including foie gras terine with apple jelly and ginger bread and roast scallops stuffed with Comte cheese.

Recently voted the top hotel in the Middle East, Park Hyatt Dubai has long been our favourite in the city.

Three courses for two for around Dhs615. Dhs280 per person for the three-course set menu.

The new menu is the perfect excuse to revisit Traiteur – as if you needed one.

Park Hyatt Dubai, Deira, Dubai, Sun to Fri 7pm to midnight. Tel: (04) 3172222. www.dubai. park.hyatt.com

Alive with the same level of anticipation children feel around the tree at Christmas.

Think Paris, think glamour, think ever so slightly camp.

The dishes that emerge from Reflet's kitchen are not mere food, they are edible art.

With its own private floor at the InterCon, Reflets is a truly exclusive destination.

Dhs1,000 and then some, but the threecourse lunch menu, available Monday to Friday, is just Dhs180.

November is all about lunch at Reflets.

InterContinental Dubai Festival City, Dubai, 7pm to 1am. Tel: (04) 7011128. www. ichotelsgroup. com

We dined at Twenty10 recently and, though intimate, every table was taken.

Book ahead.

Gary describes it as ‘gangster’ and spent a good five minutes justifying that description to us. We’re happy to go along with it.

Unfussy food, skilfully prepared.

Order the lamb rack rare.

At the right end of town in Dubai Marina. We’d advise a table upstairs for a more romantic evening.

We spent Dhs630 for a meal for two.

You could easily spend more, or if you were careful, a little less.

Gary Rhodes knows what he’s doing and makes sure his staff does too.

Guaranteed good times.

Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort and Spa, Dubai, 7pm to midnight. Tel: (04) 3995555. www. garyrhodes.com

Book ahead.

People are still talking about Okku.

Subterranean and sultry with a touch of the illicit (although, of course, it isn’t).

Go for yellowtail sashimi, black cod or our particular favourite – the crispy rice.

Number One Sheikh Zayed Road.

A respectable address for a respectable establishment.

Dhs700 should buy you three courses, sushi and sashimi.

We’re guilty of selling Okku as the low-budget alterative to Zuma, but it’s good enough to stand-alone.

We apologise.

The Monarch Dubai, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, 7pm to midnight. Tel: (04) 5018777. www. okkudubai.com

118 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

OCTOBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 118

THE HOT LIST BRUNCHES

OUR PICK OF THE BRUNCH BUNCH

Thai Kitchen

Traiteur

ATMOSPHERE

1 Traiteur

2 Al Qasr

3 Zuma

4

FOOD

LOCATION

BEST FOR

PRICE

A live jazz band, an open kitchen and a few glasses of bubbly guarantee a lively time.

Chef Franck Detrait and his team produce the some of the best quality French brasserie fare in town.

Eating alfresco on the terrace is beautiful this time of year, or those looking for a special afternoon can book the private dining room.

Those who truly appreciate the joie de vivre.

Up to you.

Dhs295 sans alcohol, Dhs425 with house beverages, Dhs550 with Veuve Cliquot or Dhs1,500 with a limo pick up.

The quintessential Friday brunch will never want for custom, despite its not too cheap price tag. Book ahead.

The broadest spread in the city. From oxtail burgers to sushi, Al Qasr has something to fill the belly of even the fussiest of diners.

Three rooms and a terrace, so plenty of choice. Thumb an abra and check out the bars at Madinat Jumeirah when you’re full.

It’s ideal for impressing visitors, and any serious bruncher will visit Al Qasr at least once a year.

A walletwhacking Dhs495.

OK, we may whinge about the price, but it’s still one of our favourite brunches ever.

Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 12.30pm to 4pm. Tel: (04) 3666730. www. jumeirah.com

As with dinner, booking ahead is essential for the everpopular Zuma brunch. If you have a large group, call well in advance.

Fresh sushi and sashimi and an exhilarating selection of dishes from the regular menu.

DIFC, the newly crowned king of the Dubai food scene.

The best Japanese food in Dubai.

Kitsu package (no alcohol), Dhs315. Kowaku package (with alcohol), Dhs425. Kyasha package with champers, Dhs550.

You’ll never go wrong with our favourite Japanese restaurant.

Building 6, DIFC, Dubai, 12.30pm to 4pm. Tel: (04) 4255660. www. zumarestaurant. com

Definitely one for relaxing rather than partying.

Endless tiny sharing plates laden with tasty Thai treats.

Now the weather is cooler, take a table outside and enjoy the view of the marina.

A relatively inexpensive and peaceful afternoon with a few pals.

Dhs225 with alcohol.

Superb food, alluring location and no chance of having to negotiate a swarm of party animals.

Park Hyatt Dubai, Deira, Dubai, noon to 4pm. Tel: (04) 3172222. www. dubai.park. hyatt.com

Not as hectic as its bigger brother Al Qasr, but not a shrinking violet either.

All the boxes on our list of highend brunch fare are ticked – champagne, steak, seafood and sushi.

Right beside the water. Take a wander onto the terrace to check out the cooking stations.

Visitors and a sophisticated gathering of friends.

Dhs425, which makes it a bit cheaper than its Al Qasr nextdoor neighbour.

Don’t miss the turtles swimming in the water, which you can watch from the terrace.

Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 12.30pm to 4pm. Tel: (04) 3668888. www. jumeirah.com

Thai Kitchen

5

Mina A'Salam

Spectrum On One

WHAT’S ON SAYS...

Traiteur has it all – class, fine cuisine and music in the air.

INFO

Park Hyatt Dubai, Deira, Dubai, noon to 4pm. Tel: (04) 3172222. www. dubai.park. hyatt.com

NOVEMBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 121

HOT ON EELS THE11H Nobu

BRUNCHES

Al Qasr

Beer Café 12 Belgian ba 13 Yalum ne 14 Media O Yacht Club , ra ua Aq 15

Bubbalicious

PRICE ATMOSPHERE WHAT’S ON FOOD SAYS...

6 Maya

7

Armani/Hashi

8 9

10 Bubbalicious

BEST FOR

PRICE

WHAT’S ON SAYS...

INFO

Ay carumba! It’s a bargain day out in the sun.

Le Royal Méridien Beach Resort & Spa, Dubai Marina, Dubai, 10am to 6pm. Tel: (04) 3165550. www. leroyalmeridiendubai.com

Outside in the sun – just where you should be at this time of year. A laid-back beach party with Mexican food and a few cold ones.

Authentic Mexican from the team fronted by celeb chef Richard Sandoval.

It depends. Do you want to feel the sand between your toes, or take a dip in the pool?

The choice is yours.

A relaxing day out in the sun, with good food and drinks too.

And there’s a live DJ and mariachi band to liven things up a bit.

Dhs300 for pool and beach access from 10am to 6pm, plus lunch and a 30 per cent drink discount between 5pm and 7pm.

House music, lively chatter and the reassuring chop-chop from the sushi chefs.

It’s an elegant affair that’s far from stuffy.

Fresh seafood buffet, robati grills, a la carte mains – try the Angus beef – and platters of tempura.

Dubai's only designer hotel.

A lavish afternoon of bubbles, sushi and serious sake for the grown ups.

A supervised room with entertainment for the nippers.

Dhs290 with soft drinks, Dhs380 with house beverages, Dhs585 with Bollinger, Dhs145 for children aged four to ten.

Keep and eye on this newbie.

It has the potential to rise up the list.

Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, Old Town, Dubai, noon to 3.30pm. Tel: (04) 8883888. www.dubai. armanihotels. com

Brash, bleary and dominated by beer swilling blokes.

You can choose three courses from the a la carte menu, but the beer takes pride of place here.

Garhoud is at the other side of town for a lot people, so you could have a long taxi ride home.

Beer. Just don’t try and drink them all.

Dhs159 for draught beers (bargain), Dhs259 for a choice of 50 beers from the Beer Book.

Garhoud’s very own beer festival.

Le Méridien Dubai, Garhoud, Dubai, 1pm to 4pm, dhs159 to Dhs259. Tel: (04) 7022560. www. lemeridiendubai.com/en/ dining

Spectrum is a stalwart brunch, likely to be in any Dubai veteran’s top ten, so it’s never lacking punters.

Eight kitchens serving up cuisine from Europe, Thailand, China, India, Japan and the Middle East, plus a port and cheese room.

Spectrum has its very own floor (floor one, unsurprisingly) dedicated solely to food, drink and merriment.

Eating your way around the world.

Dhs550 for fizz, Dhs395 for the Hops and Vines option which buys you house beverages, or dine for Dhs295 sans booze.

A solid allrounder in the high-end category.

Fairmont Dubai, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, noon to 3pm. Tel: (04) 3325555. www. fairmont.com/ dubai

Welcome to the carnival with a Cuban band, bouncy castle, video games corner, petting zoo and a cinema.

Thai treats at Spice Emporium, red meat cooked to order on a char grill at Hunters and a lavish buffet at Blue Orange.

Dubai Marina, which leaves plenty of options for a post-brunch tipple.

Parents looking to keep the kids entertained while they enjoy their food (and drink).

Dhs450 for freeflowing Laurent Perrier, cocktails, beer and wine, or Dhs299 excluding alcohol.

Great food, a Cuban band and a bouncy castle? Works for us.

The Westin Mina Seyahi, Dubai, 1pm to 4pm. Tel: (04) 5117136. www. starwoodhotels. com

Warehouse Malt Drunch

Spectrum On One

INFOLOCATION

122 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

OCTOBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 122

Weekly Happenings at the Top Saturday - Jazz Night Live jazz band and special deal on pre-selected beverages.

Doors open at 18:00 hours

Sunday - Chill out with Rosemount Watch the sun go down over Media City every Sunday whilst relaxing with a glass of Rosemount grapes and chill out music by resident DJ AnOn. Doors open at 17:00 hours

Satu rda Jazz N y ight

Tuesday - Ladies Night Ladies receive three complimentary glasses of bubbly.

A blend of sophisticated Soul, Funk and Commercial House Music by resident DJ AnOn. Doors open at 17:00 hours

Wednesday - Latino Night nt

u day emo Sun by Ros p Dro

Mixture of Latin Music including Salsa, Meringue and Samba by resident DJ AnOn. Special offers on pre-selected beverages.

Doors open at 17:00 hours

day Wednes ht Latino Nig

Thursday - Pink Paw Party

TT uu ee s sd ay ay LaLdaide d isesNN igihgth t

Have a blast at Tamanya Terrace rooftop bar every Thursday with an evening of progressive house tracks spinned by DJ AnOn. Ladies in pink will be awarded with a free drink.

Dress Code: Pink touch Doors open at 17:00 hours

Friday - Favela Chic

Thursday Pink Paw Party

Live the spirit of Favela Chic as Tamanya Terrace bounces into the weekend with resident DJ AnOn and HUSH on percussion, spinning funky electro Brazilian beats. Special offer on Brazilian cocktails.

Door opens at 18:00 hours.

ay Frid ic la Ch Fave

Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Media City PO Box 211723, Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Tel: +971-4-366-9111, Fax: +971-4-361-1011 radissonblu.com/hotel-mediacitydubai tamanya.mediacity.dubai@radissonblu.com

THE HOT LIST SPAS

Amara Spa

THERAPISTS

1 Amara

2

Sensasia Urban Spa

3

Talise Spa

4

The Spa

5

Armani/Spa

MENU

THE SPA

THE DADDIES OF THE HEALTH AND LEISURE SCENE

Banyan Tree Al Wadi

MARCH 2010 WHAT’S ON 125 PRICE

Knowledgeable and professional, these relaxation experts will take you from stressed out to blissed out.

We recommended Sue if knots are your main problem.

There’s a lengthy and luxurious list of treatments on offer. Grouped by theme, there’s an emphasis on rituals and packages that include pool and health club access.

One of the most beautiful spaces in Dubai, Amara has a courtyard with daybeds, a stunning outdoor pool and each treatment room has a private outdoor shower.

There are monthly offers that take the sting out of the steep prices – but the quality of products, spa and therapists more than justify them.

Quiet, kind and with a firm hand when necessary, Sensasia’s staff are trained to the highest standards.

Innovative and imaginative, you’ll find treatments you never knew you needed.

We love specific massages like the Hi Heeler for aching feet.

Asian chic with splashes of jewel tones; the cosy rooms are a true retreat. And the dressing gowns are the best in town.

There’s a mix of nationalities and specialities, from massage therapists to a GP. This spa is packed with experts.

Talise sets itself apart with its naturopath, life coaching and medical testing, in addition to the large spa menu.

Modern zen awaits at this vast spa, with experienced therapists on hand to guide you from reception to relaxation.

An international mix of staff.

We had a knot-busting South African.

Impressive.

WHAT’S ON SAYS...

INFO

A treatment at Amara makes everything better. We love it.

Park Hyatt Dubai, Deira, Dubai, 9am to 10pm.

Tel: (04) 6021234. www.dubai.park. hyatt.com

Choose wisely and you’ll get an hourlong massage for Dhs310.

Check out our review of the Jet Lag treatment on page 74.

Sorted us out no end.

The Beach Club, Al Nafura, Shoreline Apartments, The Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, 10am to 10pm.

Tel: (04) 4227115. www.sensasiaspas. com

The treatment rooms are linked by leafy outdoor pathways, with an outdoor pool tucked away for those day-long spa sessions.

Various, but the 80-minute Royal Hammam is a fair Dhs450.

The Optimal Health Assessment (Dhs1,495 until December 1) is superb.

Al Qasr, Al Sufouh, Dubai, 9am to 10pm.

Tel: (04) 3666818. www.jumeirah. com/talise

There are separate menus for ladies and gents. Particularly recommended is the Jet Lag treatment (see page 74).

You’d never expect this shrine to de-stressing to be mere minutes from the hectic Dubai Mall. It’s the perfect antidote to an afternoon of shopping.

It’s pricey, but worth it for the quality of treatments and snooze you’ll enjoy.

Quiet and luxurious, with quality added extras, this spa is a true retreat.

The Address Dubai Mall, Old Town, Dubai, 9am to 9pm. Tel: (04) 4388888. www.theaddress. com

There’s no treatment menu as such, just book a time slot (from 90 minutes to a full day) and the therapist decides.

As stylish as you’d expect from Giorgio. It’s a sleek space with dark greys and clean lines. Should appeal to men as well as the ladies.

Not as bad as you fear, with 90 minutes costing Dhs650, up to Dhs2,500 for a full day.

The unique 'decide for you' approach is great for spa newbies.

Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, Old Town, Dubai, 9am to 9pm.

Tel: (04) 8883888. www.dubai. armanihotels.com

NOVEMBER OCTOBER 2010 2010 WHAT’S WHAT’S ON ON 125 125

HOT ON LSOnly THE HEa,EOne &

SPAS

y Sp 11 One&Onl Mirage Royal l, rContinenta City 12 Spa Inte stival Fe ai ub D l enta a InterContin Dubai Marin 13 N.A.I.L.S, nd Spa, ra G 14 The tt Dubai Grand Hya Al Maha s Spa, 15 Timeles rt Desert Reso

Lime Spa

6

Lime Spa

7

Thai Privilege Spa

8

Spa & Fitness Centre

9

Banyan Tree Al Wadi

10 Mandara Spa

The Spa

THERAPISTS

MENU

Male and female therapists are available with their extensive knowledge.

They’re happy to answer questions, or just let you nod off.

The menu invites you to 'drop your robe, cares and guard'.

Cheeky. There are Anne Semonin treatments, plus a choice ranging from ear candling to sculpting rituals.

Shared steam and sauna facilities make it an ideal destination for couples. We especially like the clever two-way windows so you can look out over the polo fields.

Mid-range, with a 60-minute Ann Semonin massage for Dhs450 and an hour of reflexology for Dhs395.

The female therapists at this ladies-only spa undergo two years of training and the results are impressive.

Each month brings new treatments and discounts. You’ll find everything from blow-dries to luxury rituals, all with a Thai flavour.

Hidden away in an Al Wasl villa, the spa is a cosy escape with a lovely garden for yoga.

The team at Atlantis will greet you with ginger tea, treat you to some high quality pampering then bring more tea.

The extensive list covers gentlemen’s shaves, expert pedicures, lengthy rituals and more.

Particularly recommended are the Clarins facials.

All graduates from the Banyan Tree Academy, so you're in safe hands.

Super friendly and dedicated to making your metime as enjoyable as possible.

126 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

THE SPA

PRICE

WHAT’S ON SAYS...

INFO

What could be better than a rub down then steak at Rare?

Nothing.

Desert Palm, Al Awir Road, after International City, Dubai, 9am to 9pm.

Tel: (04) 3238888. www.desertpalm.ae

Well priced at around Dhs350 for an hour-long massage. Keep an eye out for those special offers, too.

We tried a fruity orange facial a few weeks ago and are still glowing.

1074 Uttamah Villas, Al Wasl Road, Jumeira, Dubai, 10am to 10pm.

Tel: (04) 3489679. www. thaiprivilegespadubai. com

It’s an impressive spa with a huge staircase, beautiful ‘floating’ walkway and underwaterthemed treatment rooms.

You’re on The Palm so expect to pay the big bucks, with two-hour packages costing Dhs1,000. They’ve priced it with tourists in mind, but it’s worth treating yourself.

A spa that will have you wanting more (and asking for a pay rise).

Atlantis The Palm, Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, 10am to 10pm. Tel: (04) 4261020. www. atlantisthepalm.com

Asian-inspired therapies in exotic treatment rooms.

It's a bit of a trek to RAK so you need to spend the day (which means spending big) to make the journey worthwhile.

Five-star prices for five-star treatments, but an hour in The Rainforest (a hydrotherapy experience) is only Dhs77.

The Rainforest includes an ice igloo, tropical showers, hammam and more.

Banyan Tree Al Wadi, Ras Al Khaimah, 10am to 10pm. Tel: (07) 2067777. www.banyantree. com

Try the fourhanded Mandara Massage. You’ll be pushed, pulled and pulverised into a state of somnolence by two therapists.

Seriously soft dressing gowns, Elemis facials and the beautiful steam room were our highlights.

Slightly above average at Dhs470 for the 65-minute Muscle Ease massage.

Enjoy a massage and lunch at Okku or Ruth’s Chris for only Dhs299.

The Monarch, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, 9am to 10pm. Tel: (04) 5018888. www. themonarchdubai. com

OCTOBER 2010 WHAT’S ON 126

Join the Friday Brunch Fun! Longâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brunch begins Fridays at 12pm all the way through to 4pm. Gather your friends to eat and drink as much as you can for only AED149*.

Book a table for 10 and 2 people eat for FREE! *Price is inclusive of 10% municipality fees and 10% service charge

P.O.Box 30430, Dubai, U.A.E. T: +971 (0)4 312 2202, F: +971 (0)4 312 2207, fb.towers@rotana.com.

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128 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

Backchat with Catboy

audience on stage. He learned to dance the samba with a beautiful Latin lady.

He passed his motorcycle test. He visited places around the world he’d always wanted to see. He also skydived, bungeed, swam with sharks, got tattooed, drove race It’s my birthday this month. I'll be 39. So cars, lived in the wilderness, grew his own far, I have to say this may well be the most food, climbed mountains and pretty much anti-climatic, non-event of all my birthdays everything else in the Big Book Of Mid-Life to date. Next year it’ll be surprise parties, Crisis Clichés. balloons on the gate, jokes about being Whilst he was midway through this list, halfway to death and the whole shebang, we had brunch together. I don’t know if but for the 39th, there’s none of that. spending an afternoon of all-inclusive Of course, there are those who make the debauchery with a grumpy broadcaster 39th a memorable birthday by making a list was on his to-do list, but it certainly could of things to do before you’re 40. These lists have been. During the afternoon he seem to mostly contain ways to nearly kill regaled me with his adventures and I have yourself. Perhaps the idea is that by almost to say, I was rapt. It sounded fabulous. losing your life, you realise that, yes, your Proper Hemingway stuff. Grabbing life by best years are over but at least you have a the short and curlies. few more to enjoy, even if you can’t enjoy As the afternoon went on, I thought to them with quite as much vigour as you did myself, “when I’m 39, I’m going to make my before. own list”.

A couple of years ago a friend of mine Well, in a couple of weeks I will be and I made and completed such a list. He had have to say that nothing could be further singing lessons and performed before an from my mind than doing any of this stuff.

Can you have a mid-life crisis without the crisis? If anyone can, Catboy can

Just reading back on some of the things he did makes me want a hot chocolate and an afternoon nap. Most of it is 18-yearold man’s business. The dangerous bits are plain insanity. Anyone around my age knows that even sitting down wrong hurts, so why risk anything more severe?

So, my idea is to compile a list of a different kind – “things to avoid before you’re 40”. You can kick-off with every extreme sport you’ve not mastered yet.

I can already snowboard pretty well, so I’m willing to do that again, but the only way I’m, say, jumping out of an aeroplane and putting my life in the hands in a piece of nylon is if the plane itself has been confirmed by an on-board aviation expert as 100 per cent, definitely crashing.

I enjoy travelling, but let’s be honest – everywhere is a package holiday these days. The only exception is to tramp to darkest Papua New Guinea and shack-up with a tribe that’s never seen outsiders before. And how much fun is that going to be? It’d be a month before you learned the Hiri Motu translation for ‘Can I watch Top Gear please?’ I think I’ll stick to ensuite hotel rooms and room service, thank you very much.

As long I can get through the next 365 days pain-free, debt-free, employed and weighing relatively the same or less than I do now, my list, whilst not very inspirational, will be complete.

Catboy hosts the Catboy & Geordiebird Breakfast Show, Sun to Thurs, 6am to 10am, Dubai 92. www.dubai92.com

Don’t miss next month’s What’s On for Bryan Adams, Creamfields, DIFF 2010 and festive fun 130 WHAT’S ON NOVEMBER 2010

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