EAT

REVIEW: BORD EAU

An elegant reminder that nothing beats classic French fine dining

Throwing it back to a time when ‘luxury cuisine’ didn’t mean adding as many sparklers and theatrics as possible, Bord Eau provides a welcome break from the inescapable fusion sharingstyle menu trend.

With thick white tablecloths, sparkling silver cutlery and even a live harpist waiting to welcome you (yes, really), it’s all far fancier than even any wedding we’ve attended.

Authentically French and refined, we feel like true food connoisseurs as we sip our welcome glass of Champagne and admire the extraordinary spread of charcuterie that dominates the centre of the room. Laden with huge loaves, endless cheeses and premium cuts, we feel it would be remiss not to start our experience here. We try to exercise as much restraint as possible, but it’s hard not to get carried away with the crusty baguettes and irresistible gooey brie.

Indeed, despite only offering three starters and six mains, the menu stars everything you would want and expect from such a Parisian-inspired hideaway.

Following the theory of ‘when in Rome’, we start with the escargot (Dhs78) and French onion soup (Dhs68). The portion of snails is huge and thoroughly delicious (as long as you are a fan of lots of garlic and you don’t think too much about what you are eating), while the soup is brimming with taste and texture.

Both provide the perfect build up to the succulent lamb (we have never tried better) and the impossibly light and fresh sea bass. Surrounded by caviar, mussels and scallops, the latter is more ‘decadent seafood platter’ than humble main course.

Finally, even after all this decadent food, we can’t help but crave something sweet to end on. The chocolate sphere adds extra Instagrammable value as it melts dramatically under the hot fudge sauce, and the chocolate opera cake strikes just the right balance between delicate and satisfying. With just a few other diners around us, the vibe isn’t exactly popping for a Friday outing. But, with the charcuterie spread (essentially a meal in itself) and an entrée available for Dhs295 per person, Bord Eau provides an affordable way of living the high life. Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri, Abu Dhabi, Khor Al Maqta, Fri & Sat 6.30pm to 11pm. Tel: (02) 509 8555. @shangrilaabudhabi WHAT’S ON VERDICT A place to feel like a truly sophisticated grown-up for the night and get some wear out of your poshest outfits.