Open Skies | October 2017

EXPO 2020: POWERING GLOBAL IDEAS

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Andrew Nagy andrew.nagy@motivate.ae Roui Francisco rom@motivate.ae Surajit Dutta surajit@motivate.ae Donnie Miguel donnie.miguel@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae

Editor-in-ChiEf Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor EditoriaL dirECtor grouP Editor SEnior Editor digitaL / Print dESignEr digitaL aniMator VidEo Editor Sub Editor EditoriaL aSSiStant

ContributorS

Iain Akerman, Christopher Beanland, Charles Carver, Emma Coiler, Sarah Freeman, Kimberley Hasselbrink, Marina Kay, Vincent Long, Rebecca Matthews, Derek Opperman, Adam Patterson, Stuart Turton Cover: Ollanski (folioart.co.uk)

gEnEraL ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar ProduCtion ManagEr R Murali Krishnan

ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae

grouP SaLES ManagEr Michael Underdown michael@motivate.ae

SEnior SaLES ManagEr Shruti Srivastava shruti.srivastava@motivate.ae

SEnior SaLES ManagEr Michelle Quinn michelle.quinn@motivate.ae

EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Manna Talib arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Catherine Freeman WEbSitE emirates.com

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Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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133,095 copies January – June 2017 Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

E d i t o r ’ s

l E t t E r

ANDREW NAGY

ON THE COVER

SEniOr EdiTOr

T

he news came late on a Saturday evening. November 23, 2013, to be exact, punctuated by much rejoicing in general and the whizz-bang of fireworks from Burj Khalifa in particular.

“We’ve got the Expo, then” a friend excitedly exclaimed over coffee the very next day. “Yeah, brilliant!” I replied… what is it?”

It was likely an exchange that played out across Dubai in the days that followed the announcement, and in the weeks, months and even years after that.

To the casual observer it all sounds a bit business-y, and it’s true that the World’s Fair was very much a trade show in its early incarnations. But from the 1940 fair in New York onwards it became about innovation and intercultural communication, and that’s a theme that forms the backbone of Dubai’s fair, too.

This month, as the three-year countdown to Expo 2020 begins and the serious work in Dubai kicks in along with it, we honour the occasion with our cover story. By heading down to the site and speaking to the people working

THE EXPO is COmiNg aNd iT’s gOiNg TO CHaNgE yOuR lifE... makE NO misTakE, THis is gOiNg TO bE sOmE sHOw What people did seem to be sure on was that house prices in the city would skyrocket. “Now’s the time to buy,” they would say, conspiratorially.

“Oh really, why?”

“Well… Expo.” Now I’m no exper t, but I’m betting even the most maverick of property tycoon would think twice about a purchase based on a single word recommendation. And not even a full word, either, an abbreviation.

But the Expo is real and it’s coming and it’s going to change your life; I get that now, I really do. Make no mistake, this is going to be some show. But I understand the initial confusion as well.

EXPO 2020 This month, we asked the Berlin-based, award-winning paper artist, Ollanski, to give us something special, and boy did he deliver, with a handmade version of the Expo 2020 site.

day and night to turn dreams into reality, we were able to discover exactly what you can expect along with the estimated US$34 million economic boost, the predicted 25 million visitors, and the hoped for 300,000 new jobs.

But I’m not going to give anything away here, you can head to page 42 for our feature on the city that’s rapidly growing out of the deser t for that. And that’s not all; from this month onwards you can follow the latest Expo stories each month right here in Open Skies.

Why? Well... Expo, obviously.

Enjoy the issue

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E x p E r i E n c E

OCTOBER 5-8

FRIEZE LONDON LONDON, UK

A short stroll north from W1, where art galleries usually do their business while snugly encased in brick and concrete, you’ll find the bucolic environs of Regent’s Park, this month home to international art fair, Frieze London.

Staged by Amanda Sharp and Matthew Slotover – the publishers of Frieze magazine – it’s an essential on the arts calendar. Champagne is served, parties are thrown and art is bought. Millions of pounds of deals are done each year and have been since the very first Frieze in 2003, which crowned the era of the YBA (Young British Artist) when Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin conquered the art world.

This year, watch out for the likes of Kiluanji Kia Henda, a Luanda-based artist who is the winner of this year’s Frieze Artist Award, and who will be presenting a new installation inspired by Lenin and her Angolan homeland.

With more than 1,000 artists showcasing works and 160 global galleries participating (based everywhere from Los Angeles to Lima – look out for Berlin’s König Galerie and Dubai’s The Third Line), Frieze has evolved into something of a monster in its 14 years, and now even has a New York spin-off.

While visiting the tents are a must, it’s also worth seeking out the sculptures dotted elsewhere around Regent’s Park, like Mallorcan Miquel Barceló’s gigantic elephant and a strange figure by Magdalena Abakanowicz, the famous Polish sculptor who died earlier this year.

With talks, films and live performances – a highlight being Yorkshire’s Georgina Starr reading from her esoteric writings – Frieze offers a chance to try before you buy, or just to enjoy the spectacle while you check out the art. Those in the know visit from 5pm to 7pm when the ‘afterwork tickets’ are discounted and the drinks flow. Book ahead though – you won’t want to miss this. frieze.com

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wORDS: CHRISTOPHER BEANLAND IMAGE: BEN STANSALL/GETTY

AMONGST THE FOLIAGE OF REGENT’S PARK, YOU’LL FIND SOME OF THE MOST EXCITING wORKS OF ART AT THIS MONTH’S FRIEZE LONDON

E x p E r i E n c E

OctOber 27

Fiesta de los Muertos Dubai, uaE

In Mexico, Dia de Muertos (Day of the Dead) has been celebrated for 2,500 years.

Not as gruesome as it might sound, the October 31 public holiday focuses on family and friends, offering prayers for those that are no longer with us.

Normally lasting around three days, the celebration was inscribed in the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by Unesco in 2008, alongside activities such as falconry in the UAE, calligraphy in China and, erm, beermaking in Belgium.

This month sees what’s rapidly becoming a regular, albeit unofficial, offshoot of the holiday in Dubai, courtesy of Fiesta de los

Muertos. A live music festival based around Halloween, this year’s line-up includes animated UK band Gorillaz, grime artist Stormzy, and Grammy-nominated singersongwriter Carly Rae Jepsen – a spooky mix if ever there was one.

While Stormzy is arguably the man of 2017 and Rae Jepsen will pacify the pop music lovers in the city, it’s the return to the region of Gorillaz that has made headlines.

The band was allegedly created by Blur frontman Damon Albarn and his flatmate (and illustrator) Jamie Hewlett following a late night conversation in 1998. “If you watch MTV for too long,” said Hewlett staring into the television, “it’s a bit like hell.There’s

nothing of substance.”The pair decided on the idea of a cartoon band that would comment on that and Gorillaz debut album followed in 2001. Sixteen years – and many awards – later, the band fronted by Albarn along with regular collaborators such as Grace Jones, Noel Gallagher and De La Soul are a hot ticket wherever they perform.

There’s a lot of live music coming to the region between now and the end of 2017, but this is the first big post-summer concert. Head there for what’s sure to be a spectacle on the sugar-skull shaped stage at the Dubai Autism Rocks Arena. Ghoulish fancy dress is optional.

117live.com

You can listen to Gorillaz latest album, Humanz, on channel 2098 on ice Digital Widescreen. You can also enjoy their 2005 classic album Demon Days on channel 3340.

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imaGe: GettY

tHe first biG post-summer Dubai GiG sees animateD banD gorillaz, Grime star storMzy, anD a Host of otHers Get spookY in tHe citY

e x p o

Youth development Alya Al Ali is the youngest director in the Expo 2020 team, and it’s her job to make young people central to its vision. This is how she’s making a difference “My responsibility is to engage with young people,” explains Alya Al Ali, director of Expo 2020 youth engagement programme, Youth Connect.

At 24, she’s the youngest director in the entire team, having joined straight from the American University of Sharjah with a degree in business management.

Initially an analyst, then a senior analyst, she was appointed to her current position just over a year ago.

“But it’s not simply young people,” she explains. “It’s the entire education landscape, so it’s their teachers, their principals and sometimes even their parents that we’re looking towards, making sure that young people are inspired, involved, and part of this journey.”

In order to achieve this Al Ali and her team are hosting school roadshows, organising events, offering apprenticeship programmes, and holding youth labs that encourage young people to shape and define elements of Expo 2020. All of which mirrors the focus of the government itself to empower young people.

“Our theme is ‘Connecting Minds, Creating the Future’ and they reflect that,” says Al Ali of the UAE’s younger generation.

“They are the main connectors and the main creators of the future. So we cannot talk about connections and we cannot talk about creating the future without talking about young people.”

So far, those roadshows have visited more than 50 schools and reached over

18,000 students, but the numbers are rising by the week. They have also held youth labs specifically about the Sustainability Pavilion – one of the three main pavilions being built for Expo – and even organised field trips to the construction site.

“Something like this has never happened in our region before,” says Al Ali. “But it is now, and we’re going to make the most of it. It’s vital that young people are part of what’s happening, too, so they can make sure they reap the benefits.” expo2020dubai.ae

Follow all the latest news and information on Expo 2020 every month in Open Skies. Grab it on board from your seat pocket or, if you’re not flying, simply download it free from emirates.com.

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B U I L D I N G

The BradBury Building

A building in Downtown LA that acquired cult status thanks to Ridley Scott’s distopian masterpiece, Blade Runner, the Bradbury remains a cultural gem in the city WORDS: MaRina Kay

I

t took nearly a century for the Bradbury Building to acquire pop-icon status. While its stunning Victorian atrium appeared in film noirs – Shockproof and D.O.A in the 1940s – and thrillers like the remake of Fritz Lang’s M, it wasn’t until 1982 that the world really honed in and took note. At the heart of director Ridley Scott’s cult classic Blade Runner loomed this edifice, a maze fit for a gruelling chase scene, the setting of the film’s stunning climax, baked into the gritty

landscape of future Los Angeles. Short of giving it top billing, Scott turned ‘The Bradbury’ into a star.

The building looks far from Scott’s vision of a dystopian 2019. Today, the red Romanesque façade on revitalised Broadway draws less attention than the revamped landmarks surrounding it, such as Million Dollar Theatre and Grand Central Market. Yet the five-storey exterior, its entrance embossed simply with ‘Bradbury’ (not associated with the | 20 |

sci-fi novelist Ray Bradbury, by the way) is the oldest of them all. Opened in 1893, nearly 80 years before being listed on the National Register of Historical Places, it was later landmarked in 1977, and safely harbours an interior that no other has been able to replicate.

The controversy surrounding its rightful designer reads a little like a Hollywood script. In the 1890s, when LA was coming into its own, millionaire mining tycoon Lewis Bradbury commissioned

b u i l d i n g

The facade (above) and atrium in Blade Runner (below)

local architect Sumner Hunt to design a commercial building on the corner of South Broadway and 3rd Street. Unmoved

by Hunt’s designs, however, Bradbury turned over the job to Hunt’s draftsman, George Wyman, who sought inspiration from the utopian novel Looking Backward: 2000 to 1887, by Edward Bellamy. The blueprint is rumoured to be based on this passage: “It was the first interior of a twentieth-century public building that I had ever beheld… I was in a vast hall full of light, received not alone from the windows on all sides, but from the dome, the point of which was a hundred feet above.”

Entering The Bradbury from Broadway, you’ll walk through a nondescript corridor that suddenly opens to a court soaked in sunlight. Rectilinear balconies – some cantilevered – made of ornate wrought iron imported from France wind their way up 50 feet to a roof of plate glass. The late great photographer Julius Shulman captured its symmetry superbly for the Southern California American Institute of Architects. In addition to stairwells, two

hydraulic-powered birdcage elevators glide between floors. Janet Jackson used these to full effect when music videos were still a thing. After an immaculately choreographed Rhythm Nation dance sequence sheathed in smoke, she makes her dramatic exit, ascending toward the crystal dome.

That smoke-andmirrors technique was perfected by Blade Runner a decade earlier.

Ridley Scott initially copped flack for choosing the Bradbury Building as a live filming location: “‘The Bradbury Building?

But everyone on TV uses it!’” said Scott of the reaction. “But I said, ‘back off! I’m gonna use it and I’m gonna shoot it in a way you have never seen before.’ ” To the exterior, he added a canopy and twisted columns made of Styrofoam to achieve a comic book effect. Inside, budget

Emirates operates a daily service to Los Angeles with the Airbus A380.

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constraints forced him to use smoke, trash and revolving spotlights – even the light looks wet – to reflect the hellish world outside. “There are some remarkable images,” wrote Pauline Kael in her review for The New Yorker. “For example, when the camera plays over the iron grillwork… the iron looks tortured into shape.” The last part of the movie takes place here, home to genetic scientist JF Sebastian, and ends on top of the building with Roy Batty, played by the amazing Rutger Hauer, delivering an emotional “tears in rain” speech. Today, you’ll find fan material about The Bradbury’s role in Blade Runner posted inside and outside the building. More recently, it has featured in the fictional worlds of Marvel and DC Comics, as well as The Artist.

Sadly, Bradbury never saw his monument realised – he died before it opened. Ageing into decrepitude, the building was purchased in 1989 by lawyer-turned-developer Ira Yellin and restored with the help of the Community Redevelopment Agency. After Yellin passed, his widow sold the building in 2003 for a bargain price of US$6 million to Downtown Properties Holdings, which also owns the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel and several restored residential buildings.

Efforts to revitalise downtown LA have been underway for years now; in 2017, hip Blue Bottle Coffee took over The Bradbury’s prominent street-level corner. At last count, the tenants’ directory was down to four, including The Yellin Company LLC, though the sunlit court is always bustling with tourists (you can’t venture beyond the ground level unless you have business in the building). Whether The Bradbury will continue life as the city’s oldest office building is up for discussion.

But in this city of tomorrow, where buildings dodge the wrecking ball, still stands The Bradbury, a cache of moments captured through time.

S t a y : S u i t e

Taj Dubai DUBAI, UAE

Words: ANdrEW NAGY ImAGE: TAj The toughest part about staying in one of Taj Dubai’s signature suites is knowing where to look first: the stunning open plan layout and palatial designs of the interior, or the unobstructed views of the world’s tallest building? First World problems of the highest order.

There are 296 rooms and suites here, but if you’re going for pure luxury, then consider two options: firstly, the Maharaja

Suite. Decorated with traditional Indian motifs and cute handicraft, its prime location on the 33rd floor makes the large outdoor terrace (pictured) perfect for drinks with friends before heading into Downtown Dubai for the evening.

If you’d like to go one step fur ther, then the Presidential Suite – occupying the entire 35th floor – has highlights including 360-degree views of the Burj

Learn more about great places to stay in the Dubai Hotels podcast on ice channel 1504.

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Khalifa, a private yoga studio and gym.

Only rabid hunger can make a man leave such luxury, so head downstairs for craft ale at British gastro pub the Eloquent Elephant, reserve a table at authentic Indian restaurant, Bombay Brasserie, and close the evening with cocktails – and yet more Downtown views – at Treehouse. taj.tajhotels.com

S t a y : c o n t e m p o r a r y

hotel gotham MANCHESTER, UK

Words: ANdrEW NAGY ImAGE: HoTEL GoTHAm Housed in a Grade II listed building at the heart of the northern powerhouse city, Manchester, Hotel Gotham has developed a reputation as something of a VIP spot in the centre of town.

Designed by British architect Edwin Lutyens in 1935, the Art Deco features of this former bank were lovingly restored and turned into a seven-storey hotel in 2015.

Although there are 60 rooms and suites, this very much feels like a boutique hotel. Artfully styled and with playful nods to the building’s financial history – we loved the moneybag laundry sacks and FT-styled salmon pink Gotham Bugle hotel newspaper in our room.

With stunning views of the city courtesy of the building’s original half-moon

Emirates operates three daily A380 services to Manchester.

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windows, Honey Restaurant is perfect for breakfast or dinner. The menu has some really nice twists on classic local dishes (be sure to try the lamb hotpot), then follow it up at private member’s spot, Club Brass.

With free entry for guests, a drink or two here is as stylish an end to the day as you can find in the city. hotelgotham.co.uk

z a g r e b

by the book

Croatia is on a mission to give its people free access to more than 100,000 books.

But while free reading zones are nothing new, a free reading country… now that would be something WORDS anD imageS: SaRah fReeman

C

offee drinking is a serious business in Zagreb, Croatia’s undersung capital. So much so, they even have a name for it: spica. So where better to pilot an initiative to open up a free virtual library of more than 100,000 books than at one of the city’s favourite coffee haunts: Velvet Cafe.

Run by avant-garde Croatian florist and artist Sasa Sekoranja, together with close friend and PR, Ana Petricic Gojanovic, the boudoir-themed cult cafe (which reopened in 2009) delivers more than just shots of espresso. The cultural hub, decked out with crimson sofas, flamboyant floral displays and huge chandeliers, also hosts regular poetry readings, book signings and music events.

It was one such poetry evening that convinced Mirela Roncevic – writer, publishing industry consultant (and now Velvet regular) – that this was the perfect venue to develop into the world’s first free reading zone cafe. “Imagine turning Velvet into a library more powerful than the city library,” she explains. And that’s pretty much what she managed to do, albeit temporarily. Last September, patrons were able to browse everything from international bestsellers and academic

Seaside town Opatija is aiming to become Croatia’s first free reading town

books, to poetry and philosophy in more than 10 languages – completely free of charge. Users simply downloaded an app onto their tablet or smartphone, using an access code supplied by the cafe.

The sponsor (in this case Velvet) pays for the user’s reading experience, so that publishers like Lonely Planet, O’Reilly and Cavendish (as well as the books’ respective authors) get paid their usual fee.

If Velvet’s shelves tell you anything, it’s that this venue is nurturing actual books as well as their electronic counterparts.

Mirela is keen to assert she doesn’t want virtual libraries to compete with physical books. Despite the digital revolution, sales of | 26 |

z a g r e b

Velvet Cafe

Mirela Roncevic

hardback books have actually surged in the last four years across Europe and America, and independent bookstores in cities like New York and London are thriving.

But is the world passing libraries by?

“I am a library person,” Mirela tells me.

“However, e-books can democratise and open (reading) up to a large group of people beyond libraries. The reality is, there are some city libraries with vast collections that simply aren’t readily accessible to people beyond the right zip code.”

Mirela was born into a farming family.

Growing up in a small town in the southern Adriatic, she didn’t step foot inside a real library until she moved to New York as a teenager. And despite her traditional publishing background, including working as a book review editor for 12 years, it was a gig consulting for an American e-book company that fuelled her belief in the power of digital books. Two years ago Mirela returned to her native Croatia and had her Eat Pray Love moment, “Elizabeth Gilbert (author of the bestseller) found her Brazilian and I found my free reading zones.”

Free reading zones were first established in America, converting public and private spaces such as hospitals and hotels into virtual libraries. Whilst the concept and technology are nothing new, the resource hasn’t been utilised to empower an entire country. Until now, that is. Beyond Velvet Cafe’s neo-baroque walls, Mirela has set her sights on making Croatia the world’s first countrywide free-reading zone with her app, Croatia Reads. Bearing in mind that Croatia has a population of just 4.1 million (roughly the population of New York’s Queens and Manhattan boroughs combined), this may not be such an insurmountable task. Its very geography – a country of over 1,000 islands with a huge rural population – means that the resource would be reaching people who don’t readily have access to libraries.

In December, Croatia Reads was rolled out as a pilot across the entire country for a month-long period, with over 32,000 residents and visitors registering in the first two weeks, downloading hundreds of thousands of books in the process.

Sustaining the project nation-wide is the challenge. A significant step towards this is developing the seaside town of Opatija (a 90-minute drive from the capital) into the country’s first fully-fledged free-reading town.

With its manicured Viennese-style gardens, sweeping seascapes and elegant Belle Époque villas, Opatija – once the darling of royalties during the Austro-Hungarian Empire – may seem an unlikely poster child for the project, but its busy cultural calendar rivals Zagreb’s. It keeps good company too, with the nearby, left-leaning city of Rijeka set to be the European Capital of Culture in 2020. Sponsored by the University of Rijeka, Opatija Reads launched for a fortnight on September 27 (it runs until October 11) transforming the town’s spa hotels, lido beach and 12km-long seafront promenade into one giant, free digital library, which will hopefully outlive its pilot phase.

Whilst nothing beats the tangible interaction you have with a book, there is no denying the role free reading zones could play in engaging a wider audience. In Mirela’s words: “The idea that a kid growing up in New York and a kid in Zambia would have equal access to books is exciting.”

In June of this year Emirates launched its new daily service to Croatia. The flight is operated by a Boeing 777-300, and is the only wide-body service operating to and from Zagreb.

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

DEL MAR, SAN DIEGO, US Words: Marina Kay iMaGEs: VincEnt LonG

F

or a beach town tucked away in San Diego’s North County, Del Mar certainly packs plenty of celebrity punch.

Intended as a glamorous resort destination from the time Colonel Jacob Taylor acquired 338 acres of waterfront land in the 1880s, this coastal enclave has grown to harbour a constellation of talent.

Golden Globe-winning actress Angie Dickinson calls it home, as does legendary skateboarder Tony Hawk and motivational speaker Tony Robbins – the latter once taking residence in the Del Mar Castle, an historical multimillion-dollar, 10,000-square-foot hilltop property overlooking the ocean. Meanwhile, after his divorce from I Love Lucy’s Lucille Ball, Golden Age actor and musician Desi Arnaz retired to his ranch close to the Del Mar Thoroughbred Club Racetrack. In fact, Del Mar may be known more for horse racing than its Hollywood glitterati. This track, the second largest horseracing venue in the western US, recently celebrated 80 years since singer Bing Crosby greeted its first guests on July 3, 1937.

November marks Del Mar’s debut as host of the Breeders’ Cup, a premier competition that’s considered bigger than the Super Bowl by the horse-racing industry.

The Breeders’ Cup began in 1984 and currently alternates between venues in the US, the weeklong programme kicks off with festivities leading up to the two-day main event that runs from November 3 to 4. Celebrities, horse racing enthusiasts, out-of-towners and locals are expected to bet more than US$160 million, meaning that all bets are on Del Mar track becoming a firm favourite in the Breeders’ Cup schedule.

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

IN The AReA ( T wo– mi nuT e wa lk )

DIAMONDS + TIARAS

AnnmArie D’ercole Fifteen years ago, jeweller Annmarie D’Ercole set up shop in Del Mar. Located right in the hear t of the village, a five-minute walk from the ocean and adjacent to world-famous L’Auberge Del Mar hotel, her eponymous shop stocks womenswear by Joie, JET, Ramy Brooke and Illia, plus premium denim by J Brand, Mother and Hudson – brands all in sync with that relaxed California lifestyle. But the real draw here is her custom-designed and LA-made jeweller y. Annmarie’s delicate everyday pieces combine 14-karat white, yellow and rose gold with diamonds, and coloured precious and semi-precious gemstones. Come horseracing season, the shop draws a fashion-forward crowd seeking more substantial pieces such as sliced diamond necklaces and earrings, diamond eternity bands, pave diamond rings and statement necklaces.

207 15th Street, Del Mar CA 92014 | 858.792.6953 | shopannmarie.com

Del mar HaT Company If you’re aiming for some glamorous race attire, then your next stop should be here for the obligatory showstopping hat. The selection at Del Mar Hat Company ranges from elegant headpieces like those favoured by the Duchess of Cambridge to more extravagant wide-brimmed styles for a vintage feel.

1555 CaMIno Del Mar #313, Del Mar, Ca 92014, 888.424.4287

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THE NEW HEART OF ABU DHABI.

As the new heart of Abu Dhabi, Makers District is a mixed use development strategically located in Reem Island in Abu Dhabi, across from the cultural hub of Saadiyat Island, home to the Zayed National Museum, Louvre Abu Dhabi and Guggenheim Abu Dhabi. The scenic waterfront development offers contemporary living in a dynamic and multi-layered experience through residential, hospitality, commercial and retail.

It promotes culture and tradition, a place where education and inspiration is cultivated, a place where creativity thrives. It is the catalyst that invigorates a cultural movement within the UAE. The culture of Makers District is built on informal, networked, peer-led and shared learning – motivated by creativity. It is a true community that embodies a balanced lifestyle, doused in culture.

makersdistrict.ae

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

In ThE ArEA ( One – mi nut e bi k e r ide )

STYLE + COCKTAILS

Gary’s studio Although Del Mar Racetrack does not enforce a dress code, it’s an occasion that demands you dress to impress. Guys into preppy and smart casual styles can select from cashmere knits, Patrick Assaraf mock zips and Rag and Bone crew necks, as well as on-trend sports coats – the grey plaid wool Hugo Boss Hutson Sports Coat with notched lapels and chest pocket is perfect with chinos and a white shirt and tie. If you decide to go the full suit, then you have your pick of the latest cuts from top fashion houses including Isaia, Hugo Boss, Canali and Zegna. Accessories are plentiful here, too, with a great range of ties and pocket squares – just remember the old style rule: to avoid being a little OTT, remove one accessory before leaving the house. As for shoes: Mabel by Salvatore Ferragamo and 13880 Cesar by Magnanni Footwear are fine choices.

Del Mar Plaza | 1555 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar | CA 92014, 858.794.0740

L’Auberge deL mAr

Because del mar translates from the Spanish “by the sea”, you really should head to the water-facing Living Room Bar. Situated in the recently revamped award-winning L’Auberge Del Mar, it’s a plush meeting spot, popular with locals and hotel guests at golden hour.

1540 CAMino DeL MAR, DeL MAR, CA 92014, 858.259.1515, LAuBeRgeDeLMAR.CoM

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

IN THE AREA

FINE DINING + THOROUGHBREDS

( F ourt e e n– minut e dr i v e )

Addison If you’re a fan of fine dining and the type of Michelin-starred quality you’ll find at legendary US restaurants such as DC’s French Laundry and Chicago’s Alinea, then Addison is worth the 10-minute drive from the ocean. Located within the grounds of the extraordinary Fairmont Grand Del Mar – a world unto itself – it is housed in a standalone stone Renaissance-style building overlooking mountain canyon and golf course views. The only AAA Five Diamond restaurant in Southern California, it’s helmed by Relais & Châteaux Grand Chef William Bradley, whose appreciation for French technique, local and exotic ingredients, and ar tful plating makes for an extraordinary experience. Depending on the season, the chef ’s 10-course tasting menu might start with kumamoto oysters and Santa Barbara sea urchin, followed by sake cured kampachi and then Ossetra caviar with leek cremeux. The wait staff keeps service perfectly orchestrated. Set aside about three hours for a well-paced dinner.

5200 Grand Del Mar Way | San Diego, CA 92130, 858.314.1900 | addisondelmar.com

Seagrove Park

The best spot to see dazzling panoramic sunsets over the Pacific Ocean, this park also functions as an open-air gallery, featuring ‘The Art of the Horse’ statues decorated by local artists in anticipation of the Breeders’ Cup. Tag your pictures #BC17 #ArtOfTheHorse.

15TH ST & COAST Blvd, del MAr, CA 92014

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wordS: CHArLIE CArVEr IMAGES: rEBECCA MATTHEwS | 36 |

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MARCUS SAMUELSSON we meet the chef and restaurateur at his new place in east london to talk soul food, community, and cooking for obama

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arcus Samuelsson, the chef Barack Obama chose to cook for his first State Dinner as President of the United States in 2009, looks comfortable sitting down, but it’s clearly not his natural state. He’s not here to eat lunch. He’s here to work.

Here is Tienda Roosteria, the light-filled street-level taco restaurant the chef has just opened in The Curtain, a new boutique hotel in London’s Shoreditch. Downstairs is Red Rooster Shoreditch, Samuelsson’s first attempt to replicate the spirit of his restaurant in Harlem, New York, the restaurant where Obama held a US$30,800 per ticket Democratic National Committee fundraiser in 2011, wowing his influential guests with Samuelsson’s “comfort food celebrating the roots of American cuisine”.

Samuelsson does not so much as glance at the menu. So neither do I. He does not order food. So neither do I. It is clear there will be no ‘lunch with’ Marcus Samuelsson. Just the story of the 46-year-old’s life so far. But what a story it is.

Samuelsson was born Kassahun Tsegie, in Ethiopia, in 1971, but having lost their mother to tuberculosis, in 1973 he and his sister, Linda, were adopted by Lennart and Ann Marie Samuelsson and taken to live in Gothenburg, Sweden. The couple had already adopted Anna, an eight-year-old girl born to a Swedish woman and a Jamaican man.

Samuelsson’s first memory of his life in Sweden is of food.

“I remember going berry picking with my sisters and my grandparents,” he says. “It’s a memory that has been reinforced by pictures of us in the woods picking blueberries with blueberry juice all over our faces.”

Lennart Samuelsson was a geologist, but he came from a rural family of fishermen, and it was during school holidays with his grandparents that his son’s food education began. He fished, foraged and was taught how to cook by his grandmother, Helga.

“In the country there’s little separation between adult and child.

You have a knife, you clean your mackerel, there’s blood.”

In his mid-teens he flirted with the dream of becoming a professional footballer, but instead he chose to pursue cooking, enrolling in the Culinary Institute in Gothenburg and then going on to work with “the best chefs in the city”. He then ventured abroad, honing his skills in Switzerland, Austria and, finally, France, where he worked at Georges Blanc’s eponymous three Michelin star restaurant in Vonnas.

It was in France that Samuelsson started to think about moving away from Europe. “Working in those kitchens I was always the

only black kid,” he says. “My ultimate goal was to own or be the chef of my own place. I spoke to chef, and he said, ‘It’s not going to happen for you [in Europe].’ It wasn’t a racist suggestion, I knew he cared about me a lot.”

It wasn’t the first time Samuelsson had been made aware of the unique challenges he would face. “A black man’s journey will always be very different,” he says. “You can say, ‘Oh, how unfair, how difficult,’ or you can see it as a way of getting stronger. I never looked at it as a problem. I looked at it as an advantage.”

His parents were an inspiration. “They were also a minority,” says Samuelsson. “They were white parents with black kids.”

Lennart in particular encouraged his son to question the status quo and think deeply about how he could move forward.

In 1994 Samuelsson travelled to New York to apprentice at Scandinavian restaurant Aquavit. The following year, having been promoted to executive chef at just 23, he became the youngest chef ever to receive a three-star rating from the The New York Times. In 1999, still in his 20s, he received the Rising Star Chef of the Year award from the James Beard Foundation.

In the eyes of the critics, Samuelsson was a success. But he says he didn’t feel like one, and over the next decade a combination of experiences inspired him to change his direction of travel.

In 2000, Linda located their birth father, Tsegie, and the pair travelled to Ethiopia to meet him and their eight half siblings, reconnecting him with his African roots. Then 9/11 encouraged him to reassess his priorities.

“I was not mentally where I wanted to be,” he says. “I started to ask myself bigger questions: ‘What are you doing this for?’”

In 2006, he again travelled to Africa and produced a book on African cooking, The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa, and he moved to Harlem. He started looking into the neighbourhood’s history and the African American experience in America: the Great Migration, jazz, the Civil Rights Movement and, of course, soul food.

AfricA wAs pArt of my story, And when i looked At AmericAn food i sAw thAt A big pArt of it cAme from AfricA, too

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I spoke to my mum and she saId, ‘Why do you alWays cook for the rIch? We dIdn’t groW up WIth only rIch people’

“Africa was part of my story,” says Samuelsson. “When I looked at American food, I saw that a big part of it came from Africa.”

In 2007-2008 the financial crisis hit and people started to turn away from “fine dining” in search of something more in tune with the times. “I spoke to my Mum, and she said, ‘Why do you always cook for the rich guy? We didn’t grow up with only rich people. We didn’t grow up with rich people at all. Why don’t you just cook for regular people?’” he says, rapping his knuckles on the table.

It took another two years, during which he married Ethiopianborn model Gate Maya Haile, before all the pieces fell into place, but he finally opened Red Rooster Harlem in 2010. He had his own restaurant and a clear sense of purpose: to become deeply embedded in the Harlem community and to help it flourish.

“It’s my job to hire from the community,” he says. “Even if you’ve been to jail. So what? You stole a car when you were 18, you’re now 26. You’re not going to get a chance? Come on. It’s crazy.”

“People talk to me every day about the change Red Rooster has made [in Harlem],” he says. “It’s real.” According to the Samuelsson, most Harlem residents know somebody who has worked at Red Rooster or Harlem EatUp! the chef ’s annual food festival in Morningside Park in May. Did he speak to Obama about this social mission? “He sees the ambition, the intent, our hiring policy. He knows.”

I suggest that, considering Red Rooster’s strong ties to Harlem, opening in London seems a strange move. “I never wanted to do another Red Rooster,” he says. “I was just not into it, because I thought it was so connected just to Harlem.”

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But Samuelsson identified similarities between the two neighbourhoods. “You could go to London many times and never have been East, right? There was another poetic story here, very different to Harlem, but there was a mystique here that was interesting to me. The graffiti, the Jewish cooking, the Bangladeshi cooking, Old Spitalfields Market, Hackney, Broadway Market, there was a stickiness, something that spoke to me.”

Our conversation over, a feast is transferred to our table, but Samuelsson is up and changed into his Red Rooster shirt and apron.

I sit alone, devouring fried yard bird from the Red Rooster Shoreditch menu, a dish that consists of a pair of giant chicken thighs marinated in buttermilk, coconut milk, garlic and chicken shake, a combination of Ethiopian berbere, smoked paprika, ground cumin, celery salt and garlic granules, and fried to a burnt orange crisp, sitting on a bed of mashed yam, collards and beans.

The ultimate “comfort food”. From the same menu, there is salmon in an awase glaze; then from the Tienda Roosteria menu, there’s dense crumbly wedges of cornbread, a mound of chips and guacamole, and the Bad Hombre, a taco piled high with spicy fried chicken and a refreshing pico de gallo salsa.

While I eat, I watch Samuelsson giving a cooking masterclass that is being filmed on an iPhone and streamed live on Facebook.

He’s not here to eat lunch. He’s here to work.

The Bill 1 x cornbread (US$5.45) 1 x guac’ & chips (US$6.80) 1 x Bad Hombre (US$6.12) 1 x fried yard bird US$26) 1 x awase glazed salmon (US$29)

Total: US$73.37 | 39 |

This programme is offered outside Dubai and KHDA bears no responsibility for the programme

A collection of stories from around the world The City Rising

The Price Of Being Joly

The Third Wave

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T H E C IT Y R I S I N G

As the three-year countdown to Expo 2020 begins, we examine how the world’s fair will allow the passion, industry and endeavour of Dubai to connect minds and power amazing ideas around the globe WORDS: Iain Akerman

E

very minute a new truck enters the Expo 2020 site in Dubai South. All are scanned in with QR codes and driven into what looks like any other construction zone.Yet, within the space of three years, this site will become home to the most anticipated event to ever be held in Dubai.

Right now, however, there are only two buildings: the Expo 2020 headquarters and a half-sized mock-up of a country pavilion. Everything else is construction related. There’s an on-site batching plant for concrete, three 132kb substations, 12 tower cranes, a number of air-conditioned rest huts, and a handy colour-coded signage system. Here and there the early signs of structures are beginning to emerge.

An extension to the existing Metro system, which will connect both the Expo 2020 site and Al Maktoum International Airport, is also making

headway, while the importance of sustainability is evident throughout the extensive, dust-blown site. All excavated earth is being re-used, on-site lights are solar powered, and the steel from previous buildings is being repurposed.

“This is literally a 24-hour job,” says Ahmed Al Khatib, senior vice-president for real estate at Expo 2020. He has two mobile phones, neither of which leave his side. Ever.

And for good reason. Al Khatib is responsible for the overall construction of the Expo 2020 site, which, in three years’ time, will host the first World Expo to ever be held in the Middle East, Africa and South Asia. With 25 million visitors expected to attend and the UAE to receive an estimated economic boost of US$34.5 billion, there’s no pressure.

“Absolutely, there’s no pressure,” says Al Khatib with a laugh. “I don’t think the team sleeps. We have consultants and contractors from all over the world,

How the 438-hectare site of Expo 2020 will look

so if it is night over here, it’s morning in Chicago, so working around the clock is very, very necessary.

“But it’s exciting and it’s literally a one-of-a-kind experience. I don’t know if I’m ever going to have the privilege to be part of a similar project again. It’s a university on its own. You think you know everything but actually when it comes to the amount of logistics, the amount of challenges, the different calibre of consultants and contractors, you’re constantly learning. But everybody’s working towards one goal: to make an exceptional experience for the visitors and for the country, and to make sure that it lives long in the memory.”

The figures involved give you a sense of the scale. A total of 4.7 million square metres of earth had to be moved | 44 |

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before construction could begin at the 438-hectare site, which is situated not far from Al Maktoum International Airport. With 5,000 cubic metres of concrete currently being poured every week and an additional 500 tonnes of steel being brought in every seven days, foundations for the site’s three themed districts are already complete.

These districts will be integral to the site, converging at its centrepiece – the 150-metre wide, 69-metre tall domed Al Wasl Plaza – and housing more than 180 individual country pavilions. There will also be separate themed pavilions, including the Santiago Calatravadesigned UAE pavilion, modelled on the wings of a falcon; London-based Foster + Partners’ tiered trefoil-shaped Mobility pavilion; and Grimshaw Architects’

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The first question I get from everybody, be it a businesswoman or a seven-year-old, is, ‘What’s going to happen after Expo?’

Sustainability pavilion. The latter, for which main basement construction is to begin shortly, will be able to capture energy from the sun and fresh water from humid air.

“This is a ver y complex project,” admits Al Khatib. “We are building a city. Right now we are at around 7,000 workers on site and we are expecting to reach around 37,000. Then there’s the equipment, the laydown areas, the access roads, the food (how to feed ever ybody on site), the waste management. It will become more and more challenging as the countries | 45 |

star t coming in. But we are taking all measures to make sure this is a ver y smooth and easy experience. The infrastructure and the power in any development are the most critical items and we are actually finishing them ahead of time.”

In total, two square kilometres of the site will form the Expo event area while the remaining land will be dedicated to suppor t facilities such as the Expo 2020 Village, warehousing, logistics, transpor t, hotels and a public park. The goal is to complete all construction work a full year before

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Success for me would be if people said, near the end of the Expo, ‘I can’t believe it’s going to be over, can we have it forever?’ the event is due to take place.

All of this comes at a price of course.

This year US$3.1 billion in Expo contracts will be awarded, including the US$600 million contract won by Dubai-based AlFuttaim Carillion earlier this year.

“Our sustainability KPIs (key performance indicators) are DID YOU KNOW? very high and very challenging,” The theme of Expo says Al Khatib. “The Sustainability 2020 is Connecting Pavilion, for example, defines Minds, Creating the Future. It will run from the model from all perspectives.

October 20, 2020 until From power generation, to April 10, 2021. Visitors can expect a full water generation, to harvesting programme of events, humidity from the air… it will performances, galleries be a benchmark for future and installations. sustainability practices.

“The challenge was also how to create buildings that suit the future real estate market. So we looked at maximising efficiency, we looked at how to make our designs as modular as possible so we can expand the buildings based on market demand.

More than 80 per cent of whatever we construct for the expo will remain as a legacy.”

What happens after the event is important to Expo 2020. So much so that it intends to leave an economic, physical, social and reputational legacy.

“Sounds very boring doesn’t it,” says Marjan Faraidooni, senior vice-president for legacy development at Expo 2020, | 46 |

with a chuckle. She is relaxed, articulate and composed.

“The first question I get from everybody, whether I’m presenting to a businesswoman or a seven-year-old, is ‘what’s going to happen after Expo?’

And that’s related a lot to the site,” says Faraidooni. “So right now we’re building structures and I work very closely with Ahmed [Al Khatib]. When we first started out he managed the whole design process, but my role was ‘how is this going to be transitioned or repurposed for future use?’ My team and I spent a lot of time trying to build a vision for the city after Expo, and we did that. We have a strategy, we know the type of industries

For an update on the spectacular plans for Expo 2020 Dubai, listen to an interview with HE Reem Al Hashimy, on channel 1500 on ice.

and world-class innovation, educational, cultural and entertainment facilities, all with the idea of creating a destination to ‘connect, create and innovate’.

“The market is going to know that we’re not going to die after the expo, that the city’s going to continue to live,” says Faraidooni. “That’s one of the biggest portions of the legacy.

“Our leadership, and it starts from Sheikh Mohammed, was very clear,” she adds. “That you guys are planning for an event that can’t be short of amazing. But he also said you need to make sure that it has a good legacy. With that he meant the social legacy is there, meaning the inclusion

we want to bring in, we know that we need to bring technology companies because that’s how the world is progressing, but we also know that there’s something special about the site, that it did host a mega event that was important for the history of our nation, so we also wanted to retain some of the elements that made it special.”

The Sustainability Pavilion, for example, will become a science exploratorium; the Conference and Exhibition Campus will become a major event and exhibition space; and the Mobility pavilion will be transformed into high-end office space.

All will form part of what will be known as District 2020, a multi-purpose development designed to contribute to the UAE’s drive towards a knowledgebased economy. When transitioned to District 2020 (which will take an estimated six months after the event), the Expo site will include 65,000 square metres of residential space, 135,000 square metres of commercial space, | 47 |

of people, getting them to feel that they’re part of it. The element of pride was very big. But also that the Expo is a vehicle for us to get people learning about things that are important for the future of the world.

To inspire them, particularly the youth, and to make them feel that they have a part to play in this world.

“We want people to remember their experiences here as one of the best experiences they’ve had in their life. And I give the example of people I’ve met on this journey, who, for example, visited the Montreal ’67 expo and as a result of it became architects.

That’s legacy. For me, to meet a person

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who made a career out of being inspired by architecture that he saw at an expo, that’s the sort of legacy we want to leave behind. It’s very social, it’s very inspirational, and it’s tangible.”

Over the course of the next three years, however, one of the primary challenges will be to explain to the public what a World Expo actually is. Although there was widespread celebration when Dubai won the bid to host Expo 2020 in 2013, very few people will probably be able to tell you what it involves.

They won’t necessarily know, for example, that each themed district will include performance spaces, innovation galleries, art installations and outdoor gardens. That there will be a children’s park and a full events programme for families. That the Expo’s theme is ‘Connecting Minds, Creating the Future’, or that it aims to be a six-month celebration of creativity, innovation, humanity and world cultures.

“We realise and we acknowledge that after we won the bid people were like ‘what is an expo?’ and there was

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this misconception that it’s just another really big exhibition that happens over a period of six months for the business community,” says Faraidooni. “But we’re changing that narrative. The way we describe it right now is as a festival of innovation, where we as an expo are providing a platform where nations come together, corporations come together, and they tell us what they’re doing to address challenges we all face as humanity.

“I think we’re pretty good in the business community, they have a pretty good understanding of what it is. Now we need to go to the regular visitor.

People like yourself, your family. ‘Would I take my family to the Expo?’”

So far more than 120 countries have committed to take part, with seventy per cent of attendees expected to be international visitors, the highest proportion in Expo history. Running from 20 October 2020 to 10 April 2021 and coinciding with the UAE’s 50th anniversary later that year, those visitors will be looked after by an army of 30,000 volunteers.

Construction is stepped up each week, with an aim to complete all work a full year ahead of schedule

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People won’t perhaps know that each themed district will include performance spaces, innovation galleries, art installations and outdoor gardens Considering the scale and scope of the challenge ahead and the grandness of Expo 2020’s vision, Faraidooni is remarkably relaxed. After all, it’s an organisation that grows by the day. “We have an average of 30 people joining the team every month,” she says.

“You know why I’m relaxed?” she asks. “Because what’s the point of me panicking? We’re all in this together, everybody’s under pressure, I can’t say ‘oh my God I’ve got so much to do’. It’s not only me, everybody has to do it.

“Success for me would be if people said [near the end of Expo 2020] ‘I can’t believe it’s going to be over, can we have it forever’. If people feel that it was an amazing experience, and that was truly, truly something that they’d like to experience again, that would be a huge testament of success for all of us.

“But the work will continue. Our doors will close in 2021 and we will start the transition process into the next phase of this city, which will be District 2020. So we’re going to continue to work.”

She adds: “When we [bid to host Expo 2020 we] went in as the underdog. A lot of people don’t understand that. So, by virtue of taking on this challenge we were sending a message to the world that we are an ambitious nation, and we believe that size does not matter but it’s really vision and intent to deliver that matters.

“If I look 10 years after the event, I want to be standing in District 2020 and somebody on a bike whizzes by me, just to indicate that people are living in this city, they’re actually working, they’re having lunch in cafes, their children are enjoying the exploratorium, people are on the bike paths and enjoying events in Al Wasl. That for me… I think I would cry then.”

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The pr

being

ice of After a nomadic career making chat shows, travel programmes and one of the most anarchic comedy shows on television, Dom Joly has rediscovered the joy of a hidden camera

Words: Stuart Turton Images: Adam Patterson

Joly

d o m

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xpecting a comedian to be funny during an interview is like hoping an accountant will do your taxes over dinner.

Humour is hard work, and most comedians save their jokes for people who buy tickets. Thankfully, Dom Joly isn’t your typical comedian, as anybody who watched Trigger Happy TV – Joly’s world-conquering hidden-camera show – will attest. Having started a conversation about fame, he’s now telling me a story about an awkward plane journey, which ends – as they often seem to – with Joly becoming the punchline of his own joke.

“I was boarding a flight once, and a guy comes up and asks if I’m Dom Joly,” he explains. “I was like [with accent], ‘No Dom Joly, Portuguese,’ and then I get on the flight and he’s sat next to me. I had to pretend to be Portuguese for 14 hours, even watching Portuguese movies. Halfway through, I just thought, ‘What am I doing? I should just come clean.’”

From anybody else, I’d affix 17 incredulous question marks to the end of this story, but Joly is sincere in his buffoonery. He’s made a career out of it. In the original Trigger Happy TV, which aired from 2000 to 2003, he crawled across a busy road in a snail suit while drivers watched on bemused; he answered a huge mobile phone in a restaurant, bellowing about how rubbish the food was; and slipped briefcases to strangers on park benches while dressed like a stereotypical Russian spy. It sold all over the world, shifting millions of DVDs, and turning Joly into the “funniest man in Britain”, according to the LA Times.

The acclaim almost broke him.

“Everyone always assumes I stopped Trigger because “We film a lot on iPhone, because nobody notices them, but that works I was recognised, and it wasn’t that at all,” he says. “I was both ways,” he says. “Many times, we were doing something and I’d notice totally exhausted; I was close to a nervous breakdown. three or four people filming it. I used to get annoyed, but they never get the It was two years, I’d just had kids, it was so tiring to whole story. In fact, there’s actually been three things we’ve done this time make that show.The fame was very weird. I’d just had where we’ve actually stopped and said, ‘Can we have your footage?’” enough. In hindsight, what I should have done was go Humility isn’t something you expect from Joly – an impression that’s away for two months, and seen what I felt like.” somehow completely his own fault and, yet, not entirely his own doing. After Instead he went away for 15 years, making chat the success of Trigger Happy TV, the BBC handed him free rein to do whatever shows and travel programmes on his way to a very he liked, resulting in This Is Dom Joly, a spoof of those ego-driven chat shows showbiz revelation. “My problem was that classic where the hosts are constantly trying to overshadow their guests. Every week, comedian thing: if somebody had told me 10 years a larger than life character – who just happened to be called Dom Joly – prior that I’d make Trigger Happy, I’d be, ‘OK, that’s bullied, bantered and mocked his guests, proving himself a world-class idiot at great,’ but once it happens you think, ‘But I want every possible turn. people to know that I’m serious, I’m an artist, I don’t “For me it was really clear: I was playing a character because I was just want to be known as the squirrel man.’ Eventually wearing glasses, and I don’t wear glasses normally,” he says. “I wanted 80 per I realised, ‘You’re lucky to be genuinely good at one cent of people to think ‘that’s funny’ and 20 per cent of people to think ‘it’s thing, go and do it again.’ I came back and everything a car crash’. I think 80 per cent of people believed that was actually me. My had changed. I love being the squirrel man.” wife said, ‘Call it Jom Doly, that’s all you have to do,’ but I was like, ‘No, no, Which is not to say the new Trigger’s a series of I want to play it straight.’” He played it so straight that an entire country dusty old sketches stitched together and jolted into managed to mistake Dom Joly for his fictional, bespectacled counterpart, life with a few familiar catchphrases. Only one of earning him a wholly unearned reputation for being brash, gauche and very the classic characters returns – something Joly was pleased with himself. strict on – and even that’s in a new guise. Episodes “I could feel it all going pear shaped,” he admits, ruefully. “And, also, I are shorter and were released all at once online, didn’t listen to people. It’s funny, I’m at a stage now where I’m confident appeasing the binge-watching generation. In fact, enough with my comedy that if somebody tells me something I take it on technology sizzles and sparks right through this revival. | 52 |

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“I had to pretend I was portuguese for 14 hours durIng a flIght, once, even goIng to the extent of watchIng portuguese movIes and talkIng wIth an accent�

Watch Trigger Happy TV, a brand new series of the iconic hidden camera show with Dom Joly and a cast of all-new characters on ice Digital Widescreen channel 1125.

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Fool’s Gold The highs and lows of Dom Joly, in his own words TriGGer Happy TV (2000-2003) I made Trigger when I was 30 and I think because of that, there was a bit more knowledge and brains to it. Most hidden camera comedy is thick, frat boy stuff, but I thought it could be art. look aT Me, look aT Me (2004) I wish I hadn’t written this because it’s a confused book. It was supposed to be a spoof of all those celebratory autobiographies, but then I realised I was sort of writing my life but Munchausen-ing it. It was rubbish.

THe dark TourisT (2009) I wrote 20,000 words of notes on my phone, but then had it taken off me in North Korea. It meant I had to scribble everything down on paper – and I have the worst handwriting. When I left the country they thought it was a codebook.

Fool BriTannia (2012) Having been too cocky at the BBC, I was too compliant at ITV and this show ended up with a laughter track. I hated it so much, but some of the ideas were really good. I could take Fool Britannia, re-edit it, and get something great.

TriGGer Happy TV (2018) The worst thing that can happen is that I’m wearing full prosthetics (that has taken three hours), I walk out, the camera’s running and I sit down at a bus stop and the guy just goes, ‘Alright Dom?’ That’s when you realise the full shame of what you do.

board, but when I went to the BBC I was so insecure that if any producer tried to tell me anything, I’d take it as ‘you’re not funny’ and react against it.

It’s just what you learn.”

More shows followed, but his career at the BBC soured until he turned up one day to find his keycard didn’t work any more, signalling his final day – a bureaucratic kick in the backside if ever there was one. An equally unhappy stint at ITV followed, and “We were talking the other day about what iTrigger Happy really is, yet, away from the bright lights of Saturday evening and we decided it was going to a really extreme length to do something primetime, Joly’s been doing really interesting things, pointless, but it’s what makes me laugh,” he says. “I get an adrenaline kick including reality shows, writing a couple of travel out of doing it. I’m a show off. That’s the worse thing about coming back. books, and hosting a wonderful travel show in which I’m 50 next year, I shouldn’t still be dressing as a squirrel, but what can I he drank his way around the world with a mate. do? It’s what I’m good at.”

And now he’s come full circle. | 54 |

THE THIRD WAVE AnyTHIng buT A sImplE HIpsTER fAD, coffEE Is TAkEn sERIously In sAn fRAncIsco, AnD oRDERIng A cup In THIs cITy mEAns moRE THAn jusT buyIng A DRInk – IT’s A WAy of lIfE

WoRDs: DEREk oppERmAn ImAgEs: kImbERlEy HAssElbRInk

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uch like perpetual fog, twisting hills and creative thinking, coffee has long been an integral part of the San Francisco experience. This has been true since the mid-19th century when the city was first introduced to the exotic bean via companies such as Folgers Coffee Company and Hills Brothers, who set up shop there to sell readymade caffeine fix to weary gold miners. The city’s infatuation with coffee was born. Ever since, it has been the beverage of choice for countless generations of San Franciscans, from the Beat poets and counter-cultural figures of the 1950s and ’60s to the futuristic tech entrepreneurs of the present. Along the way, it’s been the city’s spirit of innovation that’s helped to define its role in the broader narrative of coffee, and today San Francisco’s coffee

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scene is more vibrant than ever, thanks to a new established order of local roasters who are exploring, challenging and changing the very definition of what it means to enjoy a really good cup of coffee.

“What defines San Francisco’s coffee scene? Innovation,” says Eileen Hassi Rinaldi, the owner and co-founder of Ritual Coffee Roasters. She opened her first shop, on

THE THIRD WAVE BUILDS OFF THE SECOND, BUT REIMAGINES COFFEE AS A COMPLEX CRAFT BEVERAGE THAT’S FULL OF FLAVOUR | 58 |

1026 Valencia Street, in 2005 and brought with her an attitude towards coffee that she developed while working as a barista in Seattle. That attitude was in line with what is commonly referred to as the “third wave” of coffee consumption, a contemporary way of looking at coffee that follows a hypothetical narrative charting a course through the beverage’s popularity in America.

The first wave equates to appreciation of coffee as a quick caffeine delivery device – imagine the bitter swill of roadside American diners or the bland brew created with mysteriously everlasting synthetic crystals of instant coffee.

The second wave loosely coincides with a shift in perspective towards coffee as a gourmet – yet still proletarian – drink. A vast stretch of time that begins somewhere in the mid-20th century, it includes such developments as the introduction of Italian

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espresso, the rise of dark roast speciality coffee, a broader awareness of ethical coffee sourcing practices such as fair trade, and the mass popularisation of speciality coffee via global chains like Starbucks. And in fact, although purists might balk, it was Starbucks in particular that set the groundwork for the current generation of roasters by introducing casual drinkers to the idea of ordering and paying a premium for speciality coffee. So what is the second wave? Imagine the rich chocolate and burnt Graham cracker taste of a cup of French roast or the forgivingly soft milkiness of a latte.

The third wave builds off the second, but re-imagines coffee as a complex craft beverage with a full spectrum of sometimes delicate and sometimes bold flavours dependent on a variety of factors such as growing region, freshness, type of roast, brewing method and brewing time. Roasters of this generation develop relationships with farmers around the world to directly source unroasted beans to showcase specific varietals from specific lots. There’s a sense of terroir to third wave coffee, which is brought out in the roasting

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process by applying a lighter touch that often leaves the finished beans a muted matte brown as opposed to an oily black.

The flavour profile created by this process can be quite surprising to new initiates.

Order an espresso at Ritual and you might find yourself with a mouthful of unlikely flavours; its espressos reveal a remarkable amount of fruity acidity with offbeat notes such as sweet lime, ripe plum and almond praline, all of which might be otherwise blunted by a longer roasting time.

In San Francisco, third wave coffee has emerged during the past 10 years through the efforts of Ritual’s Rinaldi and other roasters who apply a similarly obsessed mind towards their morning cup of Joe. These include Four Barrel Coffee, started

by Jeremy Tooker (who helped co-found Ritual) and James Freeman’s Blue Bottle Coffee. Although all three differ in their respective missions, they’re similar in sharing a modern San Franciscan outlook towards innovation, or as Rinaldi puts it, “In a lot of other coffee towns there’s this mentality of ‘good enough’. Once they’ve found something good – like an espresso

In a lot of other coffee towns there’s a mentalIty of ‘good enough’ once they’ve found somethIng that works. here, you’re always askIng: how can I make thIs better?

– eIleen hassI rInaldI, co-founder, rItual coffee roasters

blend or the right roast – they stick with it. Here, you’re always asking yourself, ‘How can I make this better? What can I do differently?’”

One of the ways in which Rinaldi and other Bay Area coffee shops do things differently is by focusing on the craft of brewing coffee itself and the different ways in which it can be prepared. And one of the most iconic San Franciscan preparations is also one of the plainest: old-fashioned drip coffee, served black. But you won’t find any automatic coffee machine, percolator or other bulk-batch contraption hidden away behind these counters, and while you might find a stray French press, it’d hardly be the most exotic gadget on display. Over the past 10 years, San Francisco has embraced a whole range of previously unusual brewing | 59 |

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methods that allow the barista to make single-serving cups of drip (or “pour over” as it’s commonly known) coffee with a degree of control that rivals the near-algebraic variable complexity of espresso.

“It was really the Clover that did that,” Rinaldi says referring to the Clover S1, a supremely high-tech brewing machine she once featured in her cafe that provided digitally precise control over every essential step of the brewing process with computer controlled temperature, brewing time and water ratio. This produced a cup of coffee that’s like a high-tech Americano, albeit with the tangible body of a French press brew.

However, the Clover company was bought

by Starbucks and repairs to the machine proved too costly for continued use. “We don’t have ours any more,” Rinaldi says, “but I think that machine really opened a lot of people up to what brewed coffee could be, and that brought us to where we are now.”

So now a new potential for what brewed coffee could be was revealed, and it could be every bit as controlled and carefully made as a masterfully pulled shot of espresso. In the Clover’s wake, San Francisco roasters began looking to other novel forms of brewing that, though less high-tech, employed a similar variable-controlled mentality. This included everything from the classic – like the

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V.60 from Japan, a single serving glass pour-over filter system that, though it requires a deft touch, produces a cup that’s clean, transparent and completely free of sediment.

Some of the most unique and innovative brewing methods can be found at James Freeman’s Blue Bottle Coffee Roasters’ locations. Freeman started brewing coffee in 2002 at a farmers’ market stand across the San Francisco Bay Bridge in Oakland, and has since expanded his business to include multiple shops in the Bay Area and beyond.

In 2012, and again in 2014, he received rounds of venture capital funding that in total amounted to US$40 million. This has helped him expand outside of San Francisco to locales including New York, Los Angeles and even Tokyo. Between the US and Japan, there are now a total of 38 stores.

Though Blue Bottle’s location in six Tokyo branches might seem unusual at first, a cursory glance at the equipment on use in San Francisco reveals an obvious love for Japanese gear like the aforementioned Hario V.60 pour over dripper, which has since become ubiquitous. “I have this friend in Japan named Jay Igami,” Freeman says. “When I first went over there in 2007, he took me to all these old-fashioned coffee houses and I was knocked out by the preparation

tHERE, BENEAtH WALLS CLAD IN tAXIDERMY, VINtAGE AUDIO EQUIPMENt AND SMALL BROWN BAGS OF BEANS, YOU CAN CHOOSE tO ENJOY tHE RELAXING AND INFORMAtIVE EXPERIENCE OF FOUR BARREL’S SLOW BAR Chemex, a design piece from the 1940s recognised by the Museum of Modern Art that looks like a broken hourglass and creates a delicate, tea-like coffee – to the unusual – the Aeropress, a sort of French-press-in-reverse made by Aerobie, a company more popularly known for its Frisbees – to the foreign – the Hario

and dedication and all the tastes and textures. How I started was putting hot water in a steaming pitcher and here was Jay talking about measuring grams of coffee and putting it in proportion to grams of water. It blew my mind at the time, but now that’s just how people talk about coffee. We started using V.60s and kettles | 60 |

in 2007; Jay worked at this Japanese coffee company and he could get me all this gear.”

Fittingly, the Blue Bottle location at 66 Mint Plaza looks more like a minimalist 1960s science laboratory than a conventional coffee shop, with high ceilings, white walls and very little else in the way of decoration. Instead, the focus is on the coffee preparation itself, which features baristas tending to a few other notable contraptions imported from Japan. The first is a US$20,000 Lucky Cremas Bonmac 105 Siphon bar that uses precisely controlled halogen lamps to heat and create a vacuum within glass baubles that results in a complicated cup of coffee whose flavours – which, depending on the beans used, can be anything from citrus fruit to Graham cracker – unfold as the beverage cools. “It’s expensive and impractical, but I like expensive and impractical,” says

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The Slow Bar iS for people who wanT To aSk queSTionS and juST nerd ouT aBouT coffee – i love iT – jereMY Tooker, co-owner, four Barrel

Freeman. Similarly impractical, though perhaps less expensive, is a Japanese coldbrew iced coffee dripper that takes up to 12 hours to make a batch of Blue Bottle’s signature Kyoto Iced Coffee. It runs water, drip by drip, through a network of five glass globes and a filter to create an earthy and almost smoky concoction with a dense body and a tough caffeinated kick.

If that doesn’t scream accessible, then Freeman also offers another iced beverage at his cafes. One of Blue Bottle’s signature drinks is its New Orleans Iced Coffee, an interpretation of a Louisiana classic that mixes its cold-brewed coffee with spicy chicory and sweetened milk.

This beverage, popular since its inception, represents Freeman’s attempt to bring his coffee to an even wider audience – he’s used his funding to create and sell a mass marketable, milk carton-encased version of the drink. “It’s not a connoisseurs drink,” he says. “But it gives people a step up. If people never want to drink anything else for the rest of their lives, that’s fine, but maybe with this they’ll be curious.

It’s something with a real Napoleonic | 61 |

Emirates operates a daily service to San Francisco with the Airbus A380.

YOU WON’T FIND ANY AUTOMATIC COFFEE MACHINE, PERCOLATOR, OR BULK-BATCH CONTRAPTION HIDDEN BEHIND THE COUNTER. HERE THEY FOCUS ON CRAFT

historical imperative – they used to ration coffee with chicory – that’s also personalised and delicious, and it seems people mostly agree.”

And while all this is high-tech and flavourful, another area of innovation comes in the form of the coffee shop experience itself. San Francisco’s third wave coffee shops might attract a techsavvy crowd, but almost all uniformly do not provide free Wi-Fi, or Wi-Fi at all. In this way they create a kind of public oasis and counterfoil to the extremely busy and connected life of today’s San Franciscans.

Nowhere is this more felt than at Four Barrel on 375 Valencia Street. Always bustling with conversations, co-owner Jeremy Tooker went to great pains to create a space that’s not sterile, quiet and dominated by the glare of laptops. “For us,

it’s about innovative service and providing the customer with something special if they want it and really being a hub for the local community,” says Tooker. There beneath walls clad in taxidermy, vintage audio equipment and small brown bags of beans, you can choose to enjoy the relaxing and informative experience of Four Barrel’s ‘Slow Bar’, which lets patrons choose from a selection of coffees – a Guatemalan Chuito or Ethiopia Bulga, perhaps? – and preparation methods along with an informative conversation about the process and coffee in general with a barista. “It’s a learning experience for the barista, too. The Slow Bar is for people who want to ask questions and just nerd out about coffee. I love it.”

Naturally, with such a leap forward, there’s bound to be something of a | 62 |

backlash. After all, the coffee we’re discussing here doesn’t come cheap: a cup of pour over can run between US$4 and US$6, beans between US$14 and US$22, and some of the more extravagant brewing methods can get dizzyingly expensive for a beverage that can otherwise be acquired for quite cheap. You might even be tempted to say, “What’s the big deal? It’s just coffee,” but James Freeman of Blue Bottle sees it differently. “What kind of olive oil was in people’s cabinets 20 years ago?

What kind of olive oil is in people’s cabinets now? It’s much better, it tastes better and it’s a little more expensive,” he says. “People know where the farm is, they know whether it’s extra virgin, but it tastes better and people don’t go back. People can tell the difference between something that’s delicious and something that’s not. They can even tell the difference between an olive oil from Greece and one from Petaluma and you don’t have anyone shaming anyone saying, ‘C’mon, it’s just olive oil!’ ” And with that mentality, who knows?

You might begin to see cues from San Francisco’s third wave of coffee at a cafe near you.

Essential news and information from Emirates Emirates retains The FA Cup

Inside Emirates

Route Map

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BRIEFING

Tournament Sponsor

In Association With

#RUNWILD

Principal Partner

Global Partner

Official Timekeeper

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FOURTH DAILY FLIGHT TO SYDNEY Emirates is to introduce a fourth daily service from Dubai to Sydney in March next year, complementing its existing three daily A380 services and improving connections globally.

The new service will be operated

by Emirates’ iconic A380 aircraft and will increase passenger capacity on the route by 6,846 seats a week, representing a 7.3 per cent increase in capacity for Emirates’ Australian services. It will also provide passengers travelling from Europe and North Africa with greater connectivity to Australia.

The additional flight builds on Emirates’ partnership with Qantas, meeting continued demand for services to Dubai

and complementing Qantas’ re-routing of its current Sydney to London service via Singapore (instead of Dubai).

The new service will offer passengers an afternoon departure from Sydney and a convenient arrival in main European

cities the following morning. It also introduces a new option for passengers to depart London and main European cities in the morning with an afternoon arrival in Sydney the next day with a short connection in Dubai.

aircraft has made its way to the extensive Emirates A380 network, allowing fans from around the world to connect with the competition in a unique way.

The 2017/18 Emirates FA Cup

tournament began on Friday August 4 and saw 737 teams entering the competition and 185 extra-preliminary games taking place across the country. The final will be at Wembley Stadium on May 19.

EMIRATES RETAINS THE FA CUP

Emirates and The Football Association have reached a deal to extend sponsorship of The Emirates FA Cup until 2021.

The new three-year contract lengthens the already successful partnership that began in 2015, when the airline became the title partner of the FA Cup, the football world’s most prestigious domestic cup competition.

The partnership between Emirates and the FA’s flagship tournament has helped widen the reach to fans around the world. Just ahead of the semi-finals in April of last year, the airline unveiled an exclusive Emirates FA Cup-branded A380, with the logo of the iconic cup adorning both sides of the double-decked aircraft. The Emirates FA Cup-branded

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NEW AIRCRAFT FOR EMIRATES FLIGHT TRAINING ACADEMY Emirates’ state-of-the-art Flight Training Academy has taken delivery of two Cirrus SR22 G6 training aircraft in Dubai.

The first of 22 single-piston engine Cirrus aircraft, ordered by the Academy to train pilots ab initio, landed in Dubai following a transatlantic journey spanning more than 13,000 kilometres.

Given the size of the aircraft and other restrictions, including the size of

the fuel tanks and range, the journey from Cirrus’ manufacturing facilities in the US to Dubai had to be split into multiple segments.

The two Cirrus planes’ 11-stop transatlantic journey transited through 10 countries, flying an average of more than five hours a day. The journey across the Atlantic consisted of hopping from the US to Canada, Greenland and Iceland,

before completing the transatlantic sector at Wick in Scotland.

Once in Europe, the aircraft made their way from Scotland to Sywell in Northamptonshire, England, and from there on to Venice, Crete, Aqaba, Bahrain and finally to Dubai. All the flights were operated in daylight and the two aircraft flew in loose formation throughout the entire journey, allowing for easier air traffic clearances.

Scheduled to open in November 2017, The Emirates Flight Training Academy, located near Dubai World Central airport in Dubai South, is set to be one of the most advanced pilot training facilities in the world.

RYDER CUP BOOST FOR EMIRATES An extended partnership agreement with the European Tour will see Emirates become an Official Partner of The 2018 Ryder Cup. The airline and the European Tour have renewed their existing agreement for four years until 2021, with the 48th edition of The Ryder Cup scheduled to be held at Le Golf National in France in September next year.

The agreement renewal means that Emirates will continue to be a sponsor for the existing nine European Tour events, which culminate with the prestigious DP | 68 |

World Tour Championship in Dubai.

Sir Tim Clark, President of Emirates Airline, said: “We’re pleased to announce our continued partnership with the European Tour. Golf is one of the world’s most popular sports and Emirates proudly links golfers and fans alike to top golfing events and destinations.

“As the Official Partner of The 2018 Ryder Cup in France next year, we look forward to further strengthening our relationship with the European Tour as well as engaging with millions of golf fans around the world.’ ’

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EmiratEs WhEEls

Looking to take your car abroad? Here’s how Emirates’ door-to-door service will transport your motor around the world in 10 simple steps

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Our team receives your enquiry

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Provide Power of Attorney to authorise transportation.

All documents and permits including third-party road insurance will now be organised on your behalf

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Time to answer a few questions about your car to determine if it can travel on a passenger aircraft or if it will need to fly on a freighter aircraft

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Agree a tentative date that you would like to transport your car – and the return journey if necessary

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Make a reservation

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Your vehicle is picked up and taken to the airport where it will go through a series of checks in accordance with international regulations for air transportation of cars

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Your vehicle is loaded onto the aircraft with the utmost care

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Behind the wheels 120-150 The number of vehicles transported by Emirates Wheels each month

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EmiratEs WhEEls sElEct A premium all-inclusive door-to-door car transportation service where Emirates obtains all relevant permits and documentation, including third-party road insurance, saving the customer the hassle

Us$40m The estimated value of the most expensive car ever transported by Emirates Wheels: a classic 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO

Emirates Wheels’ contracted service provider meets you on behalf of Emirates to confirm the reservation and for a physical inspection of the car

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Us$12,000 The average starting price for cars on the door-to-door service, including all paperwork and permits

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OnE WEEk

Your vehicle arrives at the destination airport and goes through customs clearance

POPUlar dEstinatiOns

Finally, your car is delivered to your specified address and you’re ready to go.

Our main countries are England, Germany, South of France, Italy and Switzerland

Happy driving!

Gcc

The vast majority of cars start their journey here, particularly in the UAE | 71 |

For more details on Emirates Wheels visit skycargo.com

The average time it takes, from processing a request to transporting a car

D e s t i n a t i o n

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D E S T I N A T I O N

CAIRO From October 29, Emirates will operate four additional weekly flights to Cairo. Enjoy our guide to one of the most extraordinary cities in the world Cairo is immense. Its grey, grubby, shambolic enormity can trigger sensory overload for the uninitiated, such is the sheer scale of this extraordinary city on the banks of the Nile.

One of the few cities in the world that genuinely never sleeps, Cairo remains a unique experience by any cultural, historic or artistic measure.

From the pyramids of Giza and the Egyptian Museum, to Khan El-Khalili, the city’s main bazaar, the city has an embarrassment of riches. Old Cairo alone is home to the Babylon Fortress, the Hanging Church and the ruins of Roman fortifications, not to mention the impressive Mosque of Ibn Tulun and the Mosque of Amr Ibn Al-As, the earliest Islamic building in Egypt.

Egyptians call Cairo ‘Umm Ad-Dunya’, the Mother of the World. Its mosques, grand avenues and 19th-century palaces will delight, but there is a caveat. Greater Cairo’s population was estimated at 22.9 million in July last year, with the city to grow by a further 500,000 this year, more than any other city in the world. The end result is strained infrastructure, free-for-all traffic, pollution and trash.

Yet Cairo is an experience unlike any other. Take a felucca ride along the Nile, listen to live music at the Cairo Jazz Club, eat the world’s best burgers at Lucille’s, and tuck into some koshary, a traditional dish of macaroni, lentils and rice topped with a spiced tomato sauce. This is a city that will remain long in the memory.

EAT

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ABOU TAREK If you’re after koshary, widely considered Egypt’s national dish, then there’s really only one place to go. Abou Tarek has been so successful over the years that it has gradually taken over the upper floors of its home in El-Shaikh Marouf, not far from the Egyptian Museum. Order in and enjoy the atmosphere. +20 122 757 5555

VILLA BELLE ÉPOQUE Touted as Egypt’s first boutique hotel, Villa Belle Époque serves one of the city’s best breakfasts and is located in Maadi, one of Cairo’s most lushly landscaped quarters.

A refurbished 1920s colonial building, it includes a swimming pool and patios flanked by lemon, mango and olive trees. villabelleepoque.com

THE PYRAMIDS What would a trip to Cairo be without visiting the Giza pyramid complex?

Over the years Cairo has encroached on the site, but the Great Pyramid of Giza, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and the tallest man-made structure for more than 3,000 years, remains as remarkable as ever.

FASAHET SOUMEYA Sandwiched between electronics shops in an alley off Youssef El Guindy Street, this is homemade Egyptian food at its best. With only a handful of tables and singlehandedly run by Soumeya Hamdy, it serves hearty stews and comfort food.

Expect crispy roast duck with rosemary, lamb shanks and stuffed vegetables.

MENA HOUSE HOTEL If it’s a view you’re after then you really can’t go wrong with this former hunting lodge. Just 700 metres from the Great Pyramid of Giza, this palatial hotel is situated in 40 acres of gardens and has played host to everyone from Charlie Chaplin to Ralph Lauren. menahousehotel.com

EGYPTIAN MUSEUM Situated in Tahrir Square, the Egyptian Museum contains the world’s most extensive collection of pharaonic antiquities. Designed in a neo-classical style by French architect Marcel Dourgnon in 1896, it boasts 107 halls and thousands of artefacts, the most notable of which are the golden treasures of boy king Tutankhamun.

LUCILLE’S Ten years ago Time magazine claimed Lucille’s served the ‘Best Hamburger in the World’. It has been attempting to live up to that claim ever since. A humble Americanstyle diner situated in Maadi, it is still as popular as ever, although as much for its breakfasts as its delicious burgers. +20 109 291 5000

CAIRO MARRIOTT HOTEL The central section of what is the largest hotel in Cairo was once the Gezirah Palace, built for the Khedive Isma’il Pasha in 1869. Situated in the Zamalek district of Cairo, it has more than a thousand rooms, many of which have unspoilt and panoramic views of the Nile. marriott.com

SAIL ON THE NILE If the crowds and the traffic get just a little too much for you, then head out onto the Nile in a traditional wooden sailing boat called a felucca. Hired by the hour, you can take your own food and drinks, listen to music, and cruise the Nile at sunset. There are certainly worse ways to see Cairo.

The four new flights will increase the number of frequencies between the two cities to three each day, and take the total number of weekly Emirates flights serving Cairo to 21.

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C O M F O R T

COMFORT IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips.

Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

WEAR GLASSES

USE SKIN MOISTURISER

KEEP MOVING

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles.

This encourages blood flow.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT

MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

DURING THE FLIGHT

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

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Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

SHARPS BOXES Sharps boxes are available onboard all Emirates flights for safe disposal of medical equipment. Please ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

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Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle-free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr program. | 76 |

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Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs and Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow TheSe STePS:

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have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 78 |

Focus on your priorities.

Not ours.

A Valiant Life is a philosophy.

It’s about taking control and making the most of every minute. Our preventive health services help you work towards a better you.

We want to see you out enjoying life with no time wasted. From Cardiology to Gastroenterology to Pulmunology, Health Check-ups and more, Valiant Clinic provides advanced preventive healthcare to ensure you spend more time with loved ones, and less time with us.

For a consultation, call 800 VALIANT (8254268)* or visit valiantclinic.com The future of healthcare, today. Now open at CITY WALK.

*within UAE

MOH#UK08153

U A E

S M A R T

G A T E

BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the card slot

OK!

3

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan.

When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you have landed.

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures across all three terminals at DXB. | 80 |

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • E-Gate cards • Emirates ID cards

DUBAI: Dubai Mall • The Gold Centre • Gold & Diamond Park Ibn Battuta Mall • Al Ghurair Centre • Lamcy Plaza • Dubai Outlet Mall ABU DHABI: Abu Dhabi Mall • Marina Mall • Dalma Mall • Mushrif Mall Al Wahda Mall • Deerfields Town Square • Bawabat Al Sharq SHARJAH: Sahara Centre • Mega Mall AL AIN • Al Ain Mall • Al Jimi Mall Bawadi Mall • Barari Outlet Mall RAS AL KHAIMAH: RAK Mall FUJAIRAH: Century Mall BAHRAIN • Seef Mall • Seef Mall Muharraq • Ramli Mall • Enma Mall • Bahrain Mall

R O U T E

| 82 |

M A P

R O U T E

| 83 |

M A P

*SUSPENDED

R O U T E

| 84 |

M A P

INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES SIX HOSPITALS, OVER 20 CLINICS AND MORE THAN 700 INPATIENT BEDS ACROSS DUBAI, ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY www.mediclinic.ae

R O U T E

| 86 |

M A P

CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS LEGAL TRANSLATION DEBT COLLECTION TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT

DUBAI

EMIRATES TOWERS 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39

ABU DHABI

JABEL ALI

SHARJAH

INTERNET CITY

TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 auh@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 shj@emiratesadvocates.com

TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 dic@emiratesadvocates.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH

TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 rak@emiratesadvocates.com

UAE | SAUDI ARABIA | QATAR | BAHRAIN | KUWAIT | OMAN

F L E E T

EMIRATES FLEET

Our fleet of 266 aircraft includes 252 passenger aircraft and 14 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800 2500+ 20% All Emirates A380 aircraft are fitted with Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. A total of 20 (20 per cent) of the A380s are now equipped with Live Television, with more coming soon.

99 in fleet. Up to 489-615 passengers. Range of 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m

BOEING 777-300ER up to

2500+ 81% 111 (81 per cent) of Emirates Boeing 777300ERs are equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services, with more coming soon.

137 in fleet. Up to 354-442 passengers. Range of 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-200LR 2500+

10 in fleet. Up to 266 passengers. Range of 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 777F

The most environmentally friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

13 in fleet. Range of 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

| 88 |

F L E E T

CONNECTIVITY AND ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES AVAILABLE

# Live Television

Wi-Fi

Mobile Phone GSM

Data Roaming GPRS

Channels of in-flight entertainment

BOEING 777-300 1500+

5 in fleet. Up to 364 passengers. Range of 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

AIRBUS A319 550+

1 in fleet. Up to 19 passengers. Range of 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 747 ERF

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deckside cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

1 in fleet. Range of 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press

| 89 |

s t r e e t

k n o w l e d g e

the Guide

The NBA season kicks off this month, so we asked the legendary LeBron James to show us around Cleveland

There’s one plaCe you have To eaT It’s not like I am going to eat it every day – but at the same time I still allow myself to eat the food that I want to eat in moderation – and when I do it is always Blaze Pizza. You will not believe how good their pizza is until you taste it. I can eat a large one in five minutes flat – they taste that good. If you want a ‘LeBron Special’ ask them to make you a pizza with basil, red peppers and

pepperoni. Trust me, you are not going to regret this. if you wanT a big nighT ouT I would always start at XO Prime Steaks, which, for me are the best steaks in Cleveland.

They also have a pretty amazing cocktail menu, too. If you aren’t ready to go home after dinner, you’re in the right part of town to keep on going.

The besT way To reCuperaTe? Go for a run in Edgewater Park. It’s beautiful along the water, the fresh air will do you good, and you get amazing views of the city.

if you’re looking for a family day ouT Maybe not everybody knows we’re the home to The Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, so that’s a very cool place to go and check out. I like a lot of music, but I especially enjoy hip-hop. It’s so important that artists like N.W.A – who were inducted to the hall of fame last year – are recognised because they were so much more than artists; they gave hope that people in those areas could have a better life. if you’d like To geT a sweaT on Why don’t you grab a

basketball, head for Patterson Park and get a little game going. It’s near to where I grew up, and people have invested a lot of money in the cour ts down there in the last couple of years. you won’T read This in The TourisT guides Cleveland isn’t trying to pretend it’s something it’s not; it’s not New York, it’s not LA, but it’s a city full of heart, soul and good people. It’s more than downtown Cleveland, it’s got a load of great neighbourhoods and areas – and you should go and check out as many as you can while you’re there.

ice TV live, available on most aircraft, airs live news and sport channels including the NBA season starting from october 18. Look for the sport 24 channel.

| 90 |

words: EMMA CoILEr; ILLusTrATIoN: rouI frANCIsCo

The firsT Thing you should do in Cleveland?

Make sure you get yourself some tickets for The Cavaliers.

4:51 PM The moment she made you float into a fairytale.

At Fairmont, we believe in making moments. We believe that every exquisite luxury, every lavish setting, and every unforgettable adventure you have with your loved ones at a Fairmont hotel… is a memory worth cherishing. That’s why we’ve spent more than 100 years perfecting the art of making moments.

Are you ready to find yours?

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