Open Skies | February 2018

CAPITOL RECORDS

How Frank Sinatra and Nat King Cole created an LA icon

NEYMAR IN PARIS

A Brazilian superstar on the good life in France

BY THE BOOK An unconventional tour of Melbourne involving literary giants and way too much coffee

THE RISE OF WELLNESS COMMUNITIES How to ďŹ nd your happy place

oyster perpetual YACHT-MASTER 40

FLANNEL

EDITOR-INCHIEF

MANAGING PARTNER & GROUP EDITOR

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

OBAID HUMAID AL TAYER

IAN FAIRSERVICE

GINA JOHNSON GINA@MOTIVATE.AE

GROUP EDITOR

SENIOR EDITOR

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

SENIOR DESIGNER

MARK EVANS MARKE@MOTIVATE.AE

ANDREW NAGY ANDREW.NAGY@MOTIVATE.AE

OLGA PETROFF OLGA.PETROFF@MOTIVATE.AE

ROUI FRANCISCO ROM@MOTIVATE.AE

DIGITAL ANIMATOR

SUB EDITOR

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

SURAJIT DUTTA SURAJIT@MOTIVATE.AE

SALIL KUMAR SALIL@MOTIVATE.AE

LONDRESA FLORES LONDRESA@MOTIVATE.AE

CONTRIBUTORS IAIN AKERMAN, GEOFF BROKATE, EMMA COILER, EMMA DAY, SARAH FREEMAN, MICHAEL HARDEN, MARINA KAY, VINCENT LONG, AARTI SAUNDALKAR ; COVER: JANNE IIVONEN

GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION

PRODUCTION MANAGER

CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER

GROUP SALES MANAGER

SUNIL KUMAR SUNIL@MOTIVATE.AE

R MURALI KRISHNAN MURALIK@MOTIVATE.AE

ANTHONY MILNE ANTHONY@MOTIVATE.AE

MICHAEL UNDERDOWN MICHAEL@MOTIVATE.AE

ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER

SENIOR SALES MANAGER

BINU PURANDARAN BINU@MOTIVATE.AE

MURALI NARAYANAN MURALI@MOTIVATE.AE

EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES

EDITOR

ARABIC EDITOR

DEPUTY EDITOR

MANNA TALIB

HATEM OMAR

CATHERINE FREEMAN

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions.

Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: emirates@motivate.ae 8 / OPEN SKIES

133,095 copies January – June 2017

Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

THE HERITAGE OF YOUR WEALTH...

Licensed and regulated by Central Bank of UAE

Within UAE: 600 546656 - International: +971 4 384 8000

www.nationalbonds.ae/prestige

CONTENTS

INTRO

16

20

EXPERIENCE

THE YEAR OF ZAYED

22

TASTE

24

28

STAY

TRAVEL ESSENTIAL

30

DISPATCH

34

45

NEIGHBOURHOOD

COLUMN

FEATURES

48

WISH YOU WERE HEALTHIER?

56

62

REVOLUTION IN PARIS

WORD PERFECT

BRIEFING

70

NEWS

72

INSIDE EMIRATES

74

DESTINATION

76

VISA, COMFORT, AND SMART GATE

84

ROUTE MAP

88

THE FLEET

90

CELEBRITY DIRECTIONS OPEN SKIES / 11

Experience Polynesia in the heart of Dubai Parks and Resorts Step into an exciting world of curiosity with an unforgettable stay at Lapita, a unique gateway to the endless fun and enjoyment on offer at Dubai Parks and Resorts.

Create moments to treasure with friends and family and stay in Polynesian inspired rooms with theme park access, bond over a meal at incredible restaurants and unwind at the lazy river and Ola Spa. Exactly like nothing else.

Book now at lapitadubaihotel.com Tel +971 4 810 9999 Lapita, Dubai Parks and Resorts, Autograph Collection Hotels Dubai Parks and Resorts, Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O. Box 334221, Dubai, UAE LapitaHotel | LapitaHotel | LapitaHotelDubai

EDITOR’S NOTE

ON THE COVER

FIND YOUR HAPPY PLACE To illustrate life at a wellness resort we went to the awardwinning Finnish illustrator Janne IIvonen. We think his cover depicts the utopian image of the industry rather well.

I was always fairly active in my youth. Football, athletics, swimming – a pretty serious BMX habit at one point.

But then you become an adult. You get a job, you exercise less and the next thing you know you’ve turned 40, your trousers don’t fit and even a light jog is enough to send your heart rate soaring.

So, it was with a fair amount of desperation that I headed off to SHA Wellness Clinic in Spain. I guess it’s a little like going to therapy; I wanted somebody to explain my problems – in this case why I ached when I woke up, and made an “oof” noise when I bent down – and then tell me it wasn’t my fault, but that they could fix me anyway.

Of course, it’s never that simple. We’re all a mental and physical product of our environment and the decisions we make. But the rise of the wellness industry shows that we’re at least attempting to take accountability for it all.

You need to commit, that’s the message from our feature on page 48.

The diet, the exercise plan, it’s rarely easy and you will want to quit.

However, throw in the luxury locations that the industry thrives on, and the fact that it can oversee some serious lifestyle changes, and you have a viable new holiday option available to you. Two weeks away, fully revitalisd mind and body included.

ANDREW NAGY SENIOR EDITOR

SOCIAL MEDIA facebook.com/ openskiesmag

twitter.com/ openskiesmag

instagram.com/ openskiesmag

ALSO AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD OPEN SKIES / 13

THRILLS ON AND OFF THE TRACK! EDGE-OF-THE-SEAT ACTION. COME RACING!

The competition is heating up as the ďŹ nest jockeys and thoroughbreds from around the world make a bid for glory in Dubai. Watch the action unfold with family and friends over a variety of dining and hospitality options at Meydan Racecourse until March 10.

Gates open at 5:00pm. First race starts at 6:30pm.

BOOK NOW AT STORE.MEYDAN.AE OR CALL +971 4 327 2110

#DWCCARNIVAL

Intro

NEIGHBOURHOOD

INTRO

EXPERIENCE • TASTE • STAY • DISPATCH • NEIGHBOURHOOD

FEB. 11 TO APR. 22

MEMORIES OF DALI Check out Salvador Dali.

The Memories exhibition in Dubai this month for his famed Shower of Jasmine painting – made public for only the third time ever – along with some classic images of the man himself.

CONFERENCE HALL, DIFC

Turn over to plan your month

OPEN SKIES / 15

EXPERIENCE

THE PLAN Events to aim for this month FEB. 21-23

EMIRATES AIRLINE DUBAI INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL Duran Duran founding members Nick Rhodes and John Taylor on playing Dubai and dealing with fame WORDS: Andrew Nagy

Why do you think Duran Duran has lasted 40 years (and counting)?

Nick Rhodes: I think we’ve remained together because we’re still able to inspire each other.

Duran Duran is really more like an art project than a band. We collaborate with other artists from different fields and constantly embark upon new journeys.

How did you cope with the levels of fame you’ve experienced?

Our trajectory in the ’80s truly took us by surprise – although we did have an extraordinary time.

But we never really measured anything in terms of fame. When we formed the band, it wasn’t to become famous – that was just something that occasionally happened as a consequence of becoming enormously popular.

Fame became something very different after the birth of reality TV, creating a new generation of young people who just wanted to be famous for the sake of it. I still find this culture quite baffling.

We always judged success on our artistic achievements.

But those times must have been pretty crazy?

John Taylor: I remember doing a press conference in Atlanta, Georgia, not too many years ago.

16 / OPEN SKIES

I had a cold and was using tissues, throwing them into a wastebasket under the desk. A girl came up to me some time later and told me she took the used tissues, so she could ‘catch my cold’... seriously weird.

How different is that early fame in comparison to the type you enjoy today?

Things were moving fast in the early ’80s, and we weren’t fully formed as adult human animals (speaking for myself, at least).

Consequently, there was a tremendous amount of emotion and drama invested in the slightest events. Egos were both swollen and sensitive. It made for a bumpy ride a lot of the time. Today, we’re more relaxed and have more time for what matters in life.

How does a band remain relevant when it spans four decades?

You have to care. You have to be interested in current movements in music and fashion. You have to be interested in growing as a musician and as an artist.

What can we expect from your performance at the Emirates Airline Dubai International Jazz Festival?

A history of post-’70s dance-pop in 90 minutes.

DUBAI MEDIA CITY, UAE | DUBAIJAZZFEST.COM

EXPERIENCE

FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION...

FEB. 4

SUPER BOWL LII

The New England Patriots will play the Philadelphia Eagles for the 52nd Super Bowl. However it’s often worth watching for the half-time show and adverts, alone, the latter costing an eye-watering US$7,7m per 30-second slot.

MINNESOTA, US | NFL.COM

FEB. 8-9

REDFEST DXB

Heading into its fifth edition in 2018, Redfest DXB has eight main acts across two days. Sets from The Chainsmokers, Kesha and Craig David are the standout options, and along with DJ sets and more, it’s a great way to start the month.

DUBAI, UAE | REDFESTDXB.COM

FEB. 9-14

RIO CARNIVAL

The biggest carnival in the world, with around two million people in attendance.

Make your choice between the parades at the Sambadrome or the wild street parties in the city. Whichever you choose, expect five days of pure crazy.

RIO, BRAZIL | RIOCARNAVAL.ORG

FEB. 16 TO MAR. 2

CHINESE NEW YEAR

Enjoy great jazz music on today’s flight, including dedicated playlists from Quincy Jones – check out his All Time Favourites for over 90 legendary tracks, and Q’s Next Generation, which features newer music.

Enjoy 15 days of parades, light shows, dragon boat races and more. You can celebrate in most major cities, but if you want the biggest and best, try Singapore, San Francisco, Beijing and, for the mother of all parties, Hong Kong.

GLOBAL OPEN SKIES / 17

EXPERIENCE

FEB. 14

NEYMAR JR

The Champions League gets serious this month, so we asked the world’s most expensive footballer about playing against Real Madrid and his new life in Paris My favourite part of Paris?

It’s the stadium, of course – but the Eiffel Tower is very impressive.

When I signed, the tower lit up and welcomed me to the city. That was very humbling, to see one of the most famous monuments in the world do that for me.

Barcelona and Paris Saint-Germain are both great clubs But they’re different, too. At PSG there are many Brazilian players who I know well from the national team, so that’s been very good for me. To already have friends here made things easy.

I’ll tell you what has surprised me The fact that there are so many Latin American people living here.

In Barcelona you expect it because of the language, but not in Paris… that shocked me.

You can get fantastic Brazilian food in Paris I love Boteco, a great little Brazilian restaurant and cocktail bar (find it at 48 Rue l’Échiquier). More importantly, it’s very authentic too.

PSG can beat Real this month – and go on to win the Champions League We have the players and the team to win it, for sure. We’ve shown that we can beat anyone, and we know we’re now at the level where we can win, not just in France, but also in Europe. Real Madrid are one of the best – there’s a reason why they’ve won three out of the last four Champions League titles – so this is going to be a big test for us. But it’s a test we’re ready for.

18 / OPEN SKIES

There’s always a reason to visit Paris But if you come this month and can stay just a few days into March, you might be lucky enough to get a ticket for PSG vs Real Madrid – and hopefully see us progress into the quarterfinals.

SANTIAGO BERNABÉU STADIUM, MARID, SPAIN | REAL VS. PSG

Check out the Paris St-Germain Channel in Sport TV on ice. You can also catch Champions League matches live on Emirates aircraft equipped with Live TV.

THE ROAD AHEAD

Throughout 2018, Open Skies will celebrate the 100th anniversary of the birth of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. This month, the early years, and how the nation’s infrastructure was born

54.3773° E

24.4539° N

ABU DHABI

On taking power in 1966, Sheikh Zayed immediately embarked on the intensive – and extensive – development initiatives that Abu Dhabi required.

One of the most important decisions came in his early period as Ruler, just two years after his accession to power.

At the time, Abu Dhabi was little more than a small coastal village, connected to the mainland via a rough causeway that had been built in the early 1950s.

The decision to construct Al Maqta Bridge in 1968 would become a key development for the city, ensuring efficient access for years to come. But its ramifications would spread far wider than that.

Al Maqta Bridge (al maqta means crossing point) enabled Abu Dhabi to flourish, but it also signalled Sheikh Zayed’s intent, and was a precursor to the development of thousands of kilometres of paved highways that would eventually span the length and breadth of the UAE. Today, this road system ranks among the finest in the world.

SOURCES: SHEIKH ZAYED: LIFE AND TIMES (NOOR ALI RASHID); FATHER OF OUR NATION; THE UAE FIFTY YEARS IN PICTURES (RAMESH SHUKLA) | BOOKSARABIA.COM

20 / OPEN SKIES

PAVING THE WAY Al Maqta Bridge (below left) connected Abu Dhabi to the mainland and allowed the city to flourish (top left and bottom right)

THE YEAR OF ZAYED

What is the Year of Zayed?

To celebrate the centennial anniversary of the birth of the UAE’s founding father, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, 2018 will see 12 months of events to honour his life and legacy.

TWO TO VIEW Artistic impressions of the Year of Zayed

1

The Hatta mural

If you’re heading to the new walking trails in Hatta, then check out the 80-metre-tall mural of the UAE’s founding fathers, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan and Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum, on Hatta Dam. Created by German street-artist Case Maclaim – part of a US$354 million development in the region – it’s a great way to celebrate their legacy.

HATTA, UAE | VISITDUBAI.COM

2

Check the side of your plane if you can today; it could well feature Emirates’ bespoke livery in tribute to Sheikh Zayed. A total of ten Emirates aircraft carry the decal – five Airbus A380s and five Boeing 777-300ERs.

The Founding Leader

The words of Sheikh Zayed are the source of a new exhibition at Abu Dhabi Art Hub entitled The Founding Leader. Twenty artists have created different impressions and portraits in honour of the Year of Zayed, and they can be viewed until February 10.

GALLERY, LEVEL 1 | THE MALL WORLD TRADE CENTRE | ABU DHABI, UAE | ADAH.AE

OPEN SKIES / 21

TASTE

DUBAI

CABIN FEVER

Restaurant, art studio, gallery, shop – Cabin just raised the bar

COURCHEVEL 1850

THE WHITE STUFF How to win Valentine’s Day

Those struggling with the logistical side of romance during February should enlist the services of the Valentine’s Valet at Les Grandes Alpes Private Hotel.

A stunning resort nestled amongst the snowy peaks of the French Alps, your valet will ensure champagne on ice, hand-crafted chocolates, and even two hours with a personal shopper.

Then, after a hard day on the slopes, head back to your cabin, where your valet will have run a warm bath, before heading to fine dining Japanese restaurant Le Bizan for a five-course tasting menu.

1. RUE DE L’EGLISE – 73120, COURCHEVEL 1850 | GRANDESALPES.COM

For more restaurants to try in Dubai check out the Dubai Restaurants podcast on ice.

22 / OPEN SKIES

Hospitality runs in the family. “My dad was a restaurateur,” says Cabin co-owner Jonathan Gent (his partner being Emirati designer Rami Farook). “I love the buzz that you get within the industry, but life took me on a different route and I went to art school.”

Cabin is a restaurant with the ethos of a studio. “Both are taken seriously, but it’s a restaurant first and foremost.”

Every product is made onsite. “From the candles and art knives, to the carved walking sticks and handkerchiefs.”

The design is a labour of love. “We drew it and made it, even the tables outside – it’s a true passion project.”

They only play vinyl. “Sometimes the music stops and our team doesn’t have time to change the record, so you get silence. Then, out of nowhere, Fleetwood Mac will kick in and it’s lovely.”

Be sure to check out the gallery wall.

“There are some of my paintings (Gent’s work has been bought by everyone from Tilda Swinton to Ewan McGregor to Michael

Caine) along with an Andy Warhol piece and the first pencil sketch of the skull by Damien Hirst, amongst others.”

This is not your usual venue. “We’re going to launch our painting lessons on the roof next, which is really, really exciting.”

CABIN, 15 MAINSAN TOWERS, AL BARSHA SOUTH, DUBAI, UAE | CABINDUBAI.COM

DUBAI FOOD FESTIVAL

Three options for the tastiest time of year

EAT LIKE A KING Twenty-two restaurants – including Folly by Nick & Scott, Jean-Georges Dubai and Bread Street Kitchen by Gordon Ramsay – offer three course meals for US$54.

HIT THE BEACH Featuring food trucks, pop-up restaurants and live music, the Beach Canteen is always one of the most popular elements of Dubai Food Festival.

TASTE OF DUBAI Pushing into the final two days of the festival, Taste of Dubai is a mainstay of the city’s calendar, and features celebrity chefs, live cooking stations and live music.

FEB. 22-MAR. 3

FEB. 22-MAR. 10

MAR. 8-10

STAY

BRAZIL

A CULTURAL EXCHANGE

Life is all about world-class jazz, Michelin-starred fine dining and rich Italian heritage at this iconic São Paulo address WORDS: Sarah Freeman

IMAGES: Fasano

SÃO PAULO

WHILE YOU’RE IN SÃO PAULO Head to Bar Samba in Vila Madalena for great music and a feast of traditional feijoada (beans, rice, dried meat, kale, farofa and oranges).

Emirates operates a daily service to São Paulo with the Airbus A380.

23.5505° S

46.6333° W

SÃO PAULO

Paulistanos are rather fond of hotel Fasano, a São Paulo institution that has become synonymous with the city, despite its all-Italian roots. The Fasanos are fourth-generation restaurateurs, who moved to Brazil’s mega-city from Milan in 1902 to build their gastronomic empire, starting out with just a simple brasserie.

Its flagship Fasano, named after great-grandfather Vittorio Fasano, is touted as one South America’s finest Italian restaurants.

The hotel’s design credentials stack up well too. Its striking neo Art Deco clock tower façade (crafted from imported English bricks) is the product of revered Brazilian

24 / OPEN SKIES

architects Isay Weinfield and Marcio Kogan, whose mid-century European aesthetic infuses its 25 floors. The lobby is all rich caramel tones, dripping in leather, with noexpense-spared travertine marble and a striking long copper-fronted desk. The look is toned-down in the luxurious apartment-like

End on a blue note

For one of the city’s most stylish nightcaps, check into the hotel’s late-night jazz bar, Baretto, where blues, bossa nova and some of the best single malts in the city are on the menu, every night of the week. If you’re lucky, you may catch Bebel Gilberto or Jamie Cullum tinkling on its grand piano’s ivories.

rooms – outfitted with mid-20th century Milanese furniture, Eames chairs, parquet floors, walk-inclosets and Egyptian cotton linens.

Worthy of a mention, too, are the expansive wall-to-wall white marble, minimalist bathrooms and two-person marble tubs (so deep, you might just struggle to get out).

Take relaxation to the next level, literally, at its penthouse spa and rooftop indoor pool, which afford epic views over the city’s high rises and lush greenery of the Fasano’s historic, Jardin district address. Also a luxury shopping haven, Jardin’s very own Bond Street is the Rua Oscar Freire – conveniently a twominute fashionable stride away.

FASANO.COM.BR

STAY

INDONESIA

THE CITY HIDEAWAY

A stylish six-star spot in the centre of Bandung, The Trans Luxury Hotel deals with the hustle and bustle on your behalf WORDS: Emma Day

IMAGES: The Trans Luxury Hotel

6.9175° S

107.6191° E

BANDUNG

As cars crawl beneath your feet like ants under the glass-bottomed deck on the 18th floor, it will strike you that The Trans is a hotel of contrasts.

On one hand, this sprawling complex offers a selection of knuckle-whitening attractions; on the other, its walls house a soothing haven, from the calming Balineseinspired spa to the elegantly appointed rooms.

The labyrinth-like hotel seems to embody the spirit of its hometown, Bandung – the capital of West Java and Indonesia’s third largest city.

Famed for its stunning mountains and lush greenery, Bandung is also teeming with markets, cafes and Art Deco-inspired buildings.

The Trans, however, offers a hideaway from the city’s bustle, with not a single rev from the roads’ plentiful motorbikes heard in its rooms. As the nation’s only six-star hotel, luxury touches are second nature, a touch of stylish black marble here, a lick of gilding there, but always in good taste; the setting encourages relaxation rather than excess, from the bath bomb nestled over the tub to the myriad artworks scattered throughout.

Thrill seeking

If you’d like an adrenaline rush without leaving town, then check out Trans Studio Bandung. A stone’s throw away from the hotel, this indoor theme park boasts 20 exhilarating rides, including plenty of family-friendly options. The hotel complex also features a 200-store-strong mall, so if vertical drops aren’t your thing, simply hit the shops instead.

Speedy service and a pool lined with sand (imported from Australia) are hallmarks of its quality, while a fine-dining restaurant with views of the city’s mountains is the jewel in The Trans’ crown.

However, if it’s adventure you seek, then allow us to show you the rollercoaster.

THETRANSHOTEL.COM

WHILE YOU’RE IN BANDUNG Head about 10km from the city centre to the village of Cisarua, and from there take a walk to the stunning Cimahi Waterfall. Take your bathers, as you can swim there, too.

BANDUNG

26 / OPEN SKIES

Emirates offers multiple daily flights to Jakarta and Bali.

ESSENTIALS

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Time to ditch the unsightly carry-on in favour of something practical and stylish you can grow old with

MARDI GRAS

For those not heading to New Orleans…

SECURITY The roll top ingeniously fastens at the back, meaning extra security for the user.

ROOM TO MOVE With a laptop sleeve and other smaller pockets, this backpack is ideal for travel.

1

Colombia

Carnaval de Barranquilla was named one of the Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by Unesco in 2003.

GROWING OLD Made with premium leather, it will develop its own individual patina over time and with use.

2

USA FEATURING Brooks England Pickwick backpack, US$435, MRPORTER.COM Fly to New Orleans with Emirates and JetBlue and earn Skywards Miles when you fly. JetBlue’s non-stop flights to New Orleans depart from Emirates destinations including Boston, New York JFK and Fort Lauderdale.

28 / OPEN SKIES

THE BAG THE FESTIVAL

Mardi Gras translates into Fat Tuesday. It’s a fact that we kind of enjoy almost as much as the event itself. A global celebration, this one is a bucket-list trip for the wanderer, with the number one spot being New Orleans. For such adventures, a solid backpack is vital. Modern-day carry-on luggage amounts to a small wheelie suitcase in 2018, and that’s fine until you get to your destination – and aren’t going to the office. However, this bag will look sharp regardless of weather or outfit changes. There’s plenty of room inside and it opens from the back, making it a heck of a lot more difficult to get into for those who aren’t meant to.

Made with leather crafted in the Tuscan hills by Brooks England – they’re actually bicycle specialists, which accounts for the unique design – this bag will age nicely, as you do. Best take it somewhere worthwhile.

Other cities may stand in New Orleans’ shadow here, but a George Clinton and ParliamentFunkadelic gig on Fat Tuesday can’t be too bad.

3

Czech Republic

In the small village of Staré Hamry, the door-todoor processions have made it to the Unesco World Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

Under the Patronage of His Highness Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Presidential Affairs

SHEIKH ZAYED GRAND MOSQUE, ABU DHABI

Hilya by Rasheed Butt in nastaliq and thuluth scripts, 2000–01, Pakistan © HE Mohammed al-Murr Collection

20.09.2017 - 19.03.2018

USA

CAPITOL RECORDS BUILDING An iconic LA building that’s more than the sum of its parts WORDS: Marina Kay

34.0522° N

118.2437° W

LOS ANGELES

Those familiar with spycraft might put their skills to good use when next in Los Angeles. Driving towards Hollywood on Highway 101, you’ll spot a stacked cylindrical building topped by a blinking beacon. That’s the iconic Capitol Records tower whose flickering red signal taps out the letters H-O-L-L-Y-W-O-O-D in Morse Code.

Established in 1942, Capitol Records opened its LA headquarters in 1956, and in a city not unused to steamrolling bricks and mortar towards an ever-brighter future, the building has stood the test of time. Here, the first base of any record label on the West Coast, is where the talents of Frank Sinatra, Nat King Cole and Barbra Streisand were honed.

During the tower’s design phase, it was referred to as “Project X in the Welton Becket Associates [architectural] office because it was top secret”, explains Alan Hess, architect and contributor to the book 75 Years Of Capitol Records (Taschen).

“Capitol did not want word to get out about their new headquarters until they were ready to announce it,” he continues.

That the building looks like a giant stack of shellac records – not to mention its 90-foot rooftop spire resembling a phonograph needle – apparently comes down to sheer coincidence, as even the young architect responsible for the design, 24-yearold Lou Naidorf, was unaware of his client’s identity while carrying out the project. Naidorf’s decision to work with a circular form was actually dictated by a tight budget that called for cost and space efficiencies. Even he was dubious about the final result, describing the tower’s form as “bland” with “the proportions of a Campbell’s soup can”.

30 / OPEN SKIES

Despite such a polarising opinion, the public took to the tower. Perhaps that Warholian aspect helped to cement it as a Los Angeles architectural icon, a close second to its slightly more popular neighbour, the Hollywood sign.

Ringed by offices, the 13-storey building is rooted in three recording studios, situated on the ground floor. “Of the two main recording studios, one remains in original condition as an example of High Modern design. The other was remodelled a few decades ago, with the original Modern design replaced with dark oak wood features,” explains Hess.

The studios are connected to echo chambers, designed with the help of jazz guitarist and inventor Lester William Polsfuss, better known as Les Paul. Located 30 feet underground, they feature “seven layers of wall and floors floating on asphalt-impregnated cork to eliminate all vibration”, per Capitol Records co-founder Glenn E Wallichs. Sound is fed from the studios to the echo chambers, lined with just microphones and speakers. “It’s capable of producing a reverberation lasting up to five seconds,” writes Taschen contributor Sean Wilentz. The chambers reroute the enhanced sound directly to the mixing boards up in the studios, where sound engineers can adjust the effects as they like. These studios set the industry’s gold standard.

Frank Sinatra held the first recording session in 1956 – not as crooner, but as conductor to the orchestral Tone Poems of Colour album. Since then, plenty of voice-overs, jingles and sessions have been held here, including Frank Sinatra Sings for Only the Lonely, which the singer considers his “best recorded work”.

ICONIC The circular form of the building was dictated by a tight budget that called for cost and space efficiencies

DISPATCH

ICONIC HOLLYWOOD Three stylish examples of historical cool in LA

1

The Hollywood Roosevelt

This stunning Art Deco hotel has undergone a recent renovation that takes it back to its Hollywood heyday. Marilyn Monroe used to live here, while the renowned Tropicana pool was designed by David Hockney.

7000 HOLLYWOOD BLVD

2

Frolic Room

Frolic began life as a speakeasy in the 1930s.

Howard Hughes purchased the Pantages Theatre next door in 1949, which would go on to host the Oscars until 1954 – with Frolic being the official afterparty.

6245 HOLLYWOOD BLVD

MAKE LIKE MORSE

Tap out Hollywood like the Capitol

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Emirates operates a daily service to Los Angeles with the Airbus A380.

But for many, however, the building means more than just music and glamour. It’s a sign of comfort and familiarity. As the singer Beck explains in the foreward to the Taschen book: “As a kid, whenever we were returning from some far-flung part of the city in the back of a gas guzzler on a hot smoggy day, I can remember the Capitol Records building always signified that we were almost home, and that our interminable, screenless, seat-beltless, air-conditioningless ride was coming to an end… when I see the Capitol building, I am home.”

3

Musso & Frank Grill

A legendary restaurant that still offers a real glimpse of old-world Hollywood. Regulars have included Humphrey Bogart, Marilyn Monroe and Charlie Chaplin. Order a chicken pot pie and the M&F martini for the full experience.

6667 HOLLYWOOD BLVD OPEN SKIES / 31

EXPO

UAE

A SUSTAINABLE LEGACY

In a world where buildings can capture energy from the sun and fresh water from humid air, Expo 2020 Dubai is set to be the most sustainable World Expo ever WORDS: Iain Akerman

55.2708° E

DUBAI

25.2048° N

Expo 2020 Dubai is all about making a real difference – and no more so than in the priority area of sustainability. It aims to address the challenge of living in balance with the environment by integrating sustainable principles, not only, in its design and operations, but also in the visitor experience, impact and legacy.

“Our impact will go beyond the site by contributing to off-site sustainable programmes nationally, influencing regionally, and acting as a catalyst for action globally,” says Najeeb Al-Ali, Executive Director, Dubai Expo 2020 Bureau.

Much of this will be done through creating inspirational narratives, particularly in the Sustainability 32 / OPEN SKIES

Pavilion. “The Sustainability Pavilion will seek to affect a mind shift in the millions of visitors expected to attend,” says Al-Ali. The flagship pavilion also will set new standards in green building by producing much of its energy and water requirements through solar panels and by recycling greywater.

“The expected production of four gigawatt hours per year of electricity is enough for a Nissan

Hear more about this event on the Expo 2020 Dubai podcast on ice channel 1501.

Leaf electric vehicle to get half way to Mars (about 23 million kilometres), and the pavilion will also produce 22,000 litres of water per day at peak capacity – more than enough to fill three Olympic-sized pools per year.”

Across the site, Expo 2020 is working to save resources – and then use renewables. Smart building and smart grid technology will reduce power consumption by 20 per cent, while 50 per cent of consumed electricity will come from renewable sources.

All Expo-built buildings will meet the rigorous LEED Gold or Platinum standards for green building.

Legacy is also crucial to Expo 2020’s sustainability plans. Eighty per cent of all Expo-built buildings and structures will remain as part of District 2020.

In January, Expo 2020 launched a US$270,000 ‘Sustainability Champions’ challenge for all schools in the UAE to showcase how they’re playing their part in ensuring a sustainable future in the UAE. “Legacy has been core since we started planning for Expo 2020 Dubai,” says Al-Ali. “A sustainable legacy is no longer purely a reference to preserving the environment; the sustainability of a World Expo now naturally encompasses a wide gamut of intangibles, from its enduring economic and social impact to its ability to instill new values and inspiration in visitors.”

EXPO2020DUBAI.AE

SETTING NEW STANDARDS OF LUXURY

See us at the:

Dubai International Boat Show February 27 - March 3, 2018 Stand MD-10

Superyacht Collection

155 - 135 - 125 - 122 - 110 - 105 - 100

Yacht Collection

90 - 77 - 70 - 63 - 56 - 48 majesty-yachts.com | contact@majesty-yachts.com

by

34 / OPEN SKIES

NEIGHBOURHOOD

BRUSSELS

VENUE INDICATOR SHOPPING

DRINK

CULTURE

FOOD

SPORT

HOTEL

WHAT TO DO IN BRUSSELS

A pie chart of activity

Talking politics – it’s home to the EU Eating chocolates.

Well, it is Belgium after all

30%

10%

Checking out the Tin Tin murals on the Comic Strip Route

20% 30%

Scuba diving in one of the world’s deepest underground pools

10%

Eating frites where they were invented

BELGIUM

SAINT-GILLES, BRUSSELS

WORDS AND IMAGES: Sarah Freeman

4.3517° E

BRUSSELS

50.8503° N

The south-central commune of Saint-Gilles is home to the oldest continually run markets in the city, Marché du Parvis de Saint-Gilles, and the largest in Europe, Marché de la Gare du Midi. It was largely agricultural until the 19th century – a land of marshy plains with a claim to fame of cultivating the first brussels sprout in the 1600s. Its agricultural plots would eventually evolve into attractive maison de maître townhouses at the turn of the 20th century.

A commune of two halves, cobwebbed by tram and subway lines, Saint-Gilles’ elegant upper region of Châtelain is studded with grand Art Nouveau mansions, in stark contrast to its Gare du Midi region, characterised by more traditional workers’ houses, or maisons d’ouvrier.

Bridging the geographical (and social) gap is the district’s nerve centre and bohemian heart, Parvis de Saint-Gilles – a charming cobblestone square and home to a market that bears the same name, dating back to 1865. This is where Saint-Gilloise life unfolds

over a beer and snacks like tête pressée, in typically Bruxellois cafés like L’Union and Le Verschueren.

But it’s not all Belgian brasseries. Portuguese bakeries like Jynga, Moroccan grocery stores, Hungarian butchers, and funky Italian bistros such as Cipiace are a guage of its multiculturalism.

This place has some genuinely eclectic architecture, so eyeball some of the city’s finest wrought-ironwork and stained glass windows along Rue Vanderschrick. A mere 10-minute stroll from here lie two of the commune’s most notable landmarks: the French chateaux-styled Town Hall of Saint-Gilles, and nearby turn-of-the-20thcentury Tudor-style prison – both the handiwork of Joseph Dumont.

It’s fair to say that much of the commune’s artistic charm is rooted in its past. But experimental community-focused spaces like Jacques Franck and Pianofabriek are bringing its creative credentials bang up to date, together with the street-art talents of Bonom (Belgium’s answer to Banksy). To coin a local phrase, this is a neighbourhood with heaps of ‘belgitude’.

OPEN SKIES / 35

START

1.

ALIMENTATION GÉNIALE

For an alternative Saint-Gilles market experience, head to Alimentation Géniale, which, despite its location, is not your average corner grocery store. What started life as humble veggie boxes being biked around Brussels by four fresh-out-ofuniversity graduates has matured into an organic community for Saint-Gilles. Stacked atop artist palettes are vats of self-serve chickpeas, lentils and quinoa, all-natural bio cleaning detergents, a locally produced organic beauty range and acacia honey supplied by rural French beekeepers. Every Saturday founder Anthony Graça (who still ferries produce on two wheels) also hosts a small market in a converted warehouse on Rue de la Glacière.

AVENUE DE LA PORTE DE HAL 1 | 1060 SAINT-GILLES | +32 2 720 5038

A NINEMINUTE

2.

TRAM RIDE

HORTA MUSEUM

There are few better places to hone your Art Nouveau history than the former residence of its founding father, Victor Baron Horta. Four floors of stained glass splendour, swirling balconies, marble mosaic flooring and ornate furniture are housed in this Unesco Heritage-listed museum.

The money shot (if only photos were permitted) is the Tiffany glass skylight that illuminates the spiral staircase, but don’t overlook eccentric details like the private, swing-out urinal in the master bedroom. For more curvaceous Horta design, check out the city’s Centre for Fine Art and the Belgian Comic Strip Centre.

RUE AMÉRICAINE 25, 1060 BRUXELLES | +32 2 543 0490 HORTAMUSEUM.BE 36 / OPEN SKIES

NEIGHBOURHOOD

A FIVEMINUTE BICYCLE RIDE

4.

FRITERIE DE LA BARRIÈRE

If you’re going to indulge in just one Belgian cultural cliché, make it eating frites. Fritkots (aka chip stands) are scattered across the city, but not all are made equally. A neighbourhood favourite is Friterie de la Barrière, positioned just off one of the city’s most famous roundabouts, Saint-Gilles Barrier. This no-frills trailer on wheels has been serving up paper cones of Brusseleirs’ favourite salty fried carb for 30 years, which you can walk off (or at least attempt to) at the nearby Parc de Forest.

AVENUE DU PARC, 1060 SAINT-GILLES, +32 2 537 5770

A FOURMINUTE BICYCLE A FIVE-

RIDE

MINUTE WALK

3.

LUPINETTE CONCEPT STORE

Fill your boots with vintage Parisian and Italian fashion, Art Deco Belgian ceramics and Scandinavian minimalist homeware at this unique emporium, run by art historian author Anne-Lise. Literally everything is for sale, from the antique fitting room chair to the surreal jellyfish suspended over the counter.

CHAUSSÉE DE WATERLOO 345, 1060 BRUXELLES | +32 474 314 064 LUPINETTE.COM OPEN SKIES / 37

Emirates launched flights to Brussels on September 5, 2014. In October of last year an additional daily flight was introduced, providing a double-daily service. Today Emirates’ latest generation 777-300ER operates on the route, providing fully enclosed private suites in First Class, as well as refreshed Business and Economy Class cabins.

5.

A FIVEMINUTE

DUST DEALERS

Much like the original vinyl for sale, Parisian storeowner Julien Delannoy is the real deal.

“All the records I sell, I know them, which means I can talk about them,” he explains, as a record crackles on the turntable.

It comes as no surprise to discover that 80 per cent of the jazz and soul music in his cosy, living room-styled shop hails from personal collection.

Dust Dealers joins the ranks of 12 vinyl stores in the city, each specialising in a different genre.

Here you can shop rare finds like solo pianist Mal Waldron’s Blues For Lady Day album and jazz saxophonist’s Eric Dolphy’s Out To Lunch! and not feel guilty about sinking into Dust Dealers’ well-worn sofa for an afternoon listening to all of Julien’s jazz.

RUE VANDERSCHRICK 22, SAINT-GILLES, 1060 BRUSSEL, +32 488 463 525, DUSTDEALERS.COM 38 / OPEN SKIES

WALK

As well as having its fair share of fritkots, Brussels has an average of 138 restaurants per square mile

NEIGHBOURHOOD

6.

LE VERSCHUEREN

This no-nonsense Brusselär cafe (which boasts a G Beautrix-designed modernist façade) has been brewing beer since the 1930s. Be prepared to jostle for space with the locals, who cram into its Art Deco oak-panelled walls for a taste of their home-brewed Verschueren Triple beer and a Brussels of yesteryear. Take a closer look at the vintage football scoreboard that emblazons the rear wall, it harks back to a time when the owner would broadcast live scores over the radio.

SINT-GILLISVOORPLEIN 11 | 1060 SINT-GILLES | +32 2 539 4068

A TWOMINUTE WALK

7.

CENTRE CULTUREL JACQUES FRANCK

This popular creative hub hosts an eclectic musical programme, arthouse cinema screenings, poetry slams and varied exhibitions that span the gamut from comic book art to fashion photography.

CHAUSSÉE DE WATERLOO, 94 | 1060 SAINT-GILLES |

END

+32 2 538 9020 OPEN SKIES / 39

LUNCH WITH

40 / OPEN SKIES

LUNCH WITH

UK

JOE DUNTHORNE

From teenage rebellion to social dysfunction, The Beano to Kafka, we talk childhood with the Welsh author over lunch at Barshu in London’s Soho WORDS: Charlie Carver

IMAGES: Rebecca Matthews

0.1278° W

LONDON

51.5074° N

Oliver Tate, the oddball protagonist in Joe Dunthorne’s critically acclaimed debut novel, Submarine, is a 15-yearold comprehensive school pupil from a middle-class family living in Swansea, Wales. He is utterly selfabsorbed, socially dysfunctional and unable to comprehend the behaviour of adults, especially his mother and father.

In the 2010 film adaptation, directed by Richard Ayoade, Oliver Tate is masterfully portrayed

by Welsh actor Craig Roberts, sporting a mop of dark brown hair, a tightly buttoned duffle coat and a crazed stare.

Twenty years ago, Joe Dunthorne, who has just taken a seat opposite me in Barshu, the Chinese restaurant in London’s Soho the writer has chosen for our lunch, was a 15-year-old comprehensive school pupil from a middle-class family living in Swansea, Wales.

But it seems that is where the similarities between Dunthorne and his best-known character end.

Joe Dunthorne is not Oliver Tate.

The celebrated author and poet is smiling, his excited eyes greedily studying the more appealing than average food photography on Barshu’s menu. His hair is dark

blonde and swept into a neat but relaxed side parting. His coat, which hangs on the back of his chair, is a sharp dark green trench.

Dunthorne is the third child of Hugh and Kristine Dunthorne, both academics, now retired.

When he was growing up, in a large Victorian house with his parents and two older sisters, his father, a historian specialising in 17th century Dutch history, worked as a lecturer at Swansea University, and his mother, an art historian, worked as a lecturer at Swansea Metropolitan University.

“I was born in the ‘great snow’ of 1982, as my father likes to call it,” says Dunthorne. “There are photos of queues in the bakery, half a mile long. I don’t know why there were queues in the bakery because it was snowing,” he adds with a laugh.

LONDON Emirates operates nine daily flights to London.

Choose from six daily services to London Heathrow and three daily services to London Gatwick. Starting June 8, Emirates will operate an additional daily service to London Stansted.

I have left Dunthorne, who seems confident he can navigate the long menu, in charge of choosing our food. He orders Smacked Cucumber, Numbing-and-Hot Fried Beef, Ants Climbing a Tree, Tyrant’s Chicken, Dry-fried Green Beans, Fish-fragrant Aubergines and plain steamed rice. He delights in the names of the dishes.

“It was a happy childhood,” he continues once the waitress has departed. “There was a lot of being beaten up by my middle sister, but I have somehow incorporated that into a happy memory as well.”

Seven bowls are placed on the table. The dishes, their colours and flavours equally bright, live up to their names. We reload our plates constantly throughout the next hour of conversation, but the food, like all Chinese food, is destined never to be finished in one sitting.

Dunthorne’s home was “bookish”.

His parents read obscure academic texts; his older sister encouraged him to read the classics. He rebelled by reading Terry Pratchett, Roald Dahl and comic books including 2000AD and The Beano. “I probably read quite a lot but I didn’t read widely at all until I got to 16 or 17, and then I found books that fitted more closely with my nihilistic world view,” he says. “I started reading Kafka, I started reading Camus. I found my thing. Then, in a slightly selfimportant way, I read the classics.”

He calls this process of working his way through the western literary canon “fraud insurance”.

It’s something Oliver Tate might do, a phrase he might use.

“I think I’m probably more self-aware [than Oliver], but I’m definitely capable of that level of clumsiness and lack of social awareness,” he says. “I can be quite internal. I can overthink. In an interview like this, it’s very easy OPEN SKIES / 41

LUNCH WITH THE BILL 1 SMACKED CUCUMBER (US$11) 1 NUMBING-AND-HOT DRIED BEEF (US$14) 1 ANTS CLIMBING A TREE (US$19) 1 TYRANT’S CHICKEN (US$21) 1 DRY-FRIED GREEN BEANS (US$18) 1 FISH-FRAGRANT AUBERGINES (US$18) 3 PLAIN STEAMED RICE (US$20)

TOTAL: US$121

to just overcomplicate your own life, your own thoughts. I find it very easy to make patterns that are very complicated out of what can be a straightforward story.”

Dunthorne’s road to success is just that – a straightforward story. He started writing poems and short stories in his mid-teens, applied for and won a place on the University of East Anglia’s celebrated Creative Writing BA (hons) course. From there he progressed to the MA course, during which he wrote Submarine.

“The truth is that it happened quite easily, and my instinct to create a narrative bumps up against that, but there wasn’t much struggle,” he says. “I studied, I wrote it, after a year it was made into a book, and then it was made into a film. Looking back now, having experienced lots of projects fail or go badly or not go as well as that, it seems insane. But at the time I only had that experience.”

Submarine was a critical success.

Wild Abandon, the story of a brother and sister, Kate and Albert, who live in a Welsh commune witnessing the disintegration of their parents’ marriage, followed in 2011. The critics liked that too. Two coming of age stories, both set in Wales, both featuring child protagonists struggling to understand the actions of the adults in their lives.

42 / OPEN SKIES

“I think a child’s perspective can be a very useful lens through which to view adult relationships,” says Dunthorne, refilling his plate.

“It helps to have a no bull**** voice that can coldly observe adult behaviour in a semi-scientific way.”

Dunthorne’s third novel, The Adulterants, published on February 1, is set in London and narrated by Ray, a thirty-something freelance tech journalist on the verge of becoming a parent. Ray is twice the age of Dunthorne’s previous protagonists, but The Adulterants is in essence another coming of age novel. Ray is struggling with “the transition from your twenties to your thirties”, struggling to grow up.

It’s a short book, just 173 pages, but the “comic romp” has taken Dunthorne six years to write.

Perhaps because it is the author’s

most personal novel to date. “In your twenties, you don’t even see children,” he says. “People with prams are ghosts to you. They mean nothing. The thought of these idiots walking around carrying these scream boxes doesn’t make any sense. You ignore them or don’t think about them, but slowly biology is doing its dark magic inside of you and you start to think about it. There’s part of you thinking, ‘Is this life dedicated to my own pleasure and my own ego sustainable? Will I be happy just doing what I’m doing now until death?’ I was really interested in other people who chose to be parents. All my friends who had become parents, I would interview them. Why have you done it?

What does it feel like? Is it great or is it horrible? It looks like it’s

LUNCH WITH

FACTS BEHIND THE FICTION

How Joe Dunthorne writes

SUBMARINE Dunthorne wrote two versions of his debut novel before it was published in 2008. The first featured a teenager who’s a robot but doesn’t know it. It was “too high concept” but Oliver Tate shares certain character traits with the original protagonist. “I can see the through line,” says Dunthorne. “Emotional distance, lack of nuance and connection with other humans, a methodical approach to domestic life. Everything’s a scheme.”

“In your twenties, you don’t even see children.

People walking around with these scream boxes in prams are ghosts to you. They mean nothing” kind of both. Which it is, right?

Obviously you’re never ready, but then I did feel a little bit ready.”

Six months ago Dunthorne’s wife gave birth to a son. He is now a husband and a father. He has become part of the adult world that bewildered Oliver Tate and Kate and Albert. He is battling to finish the book he started at Christmas, The Assistant by Robert Walser, but otherwise he seems happy with his own transition from bright

young thing to established writer, husband and father with “bourgeois, embarrassing, meaningless concerns” like house prices and the 50 steps he has to climb to reach the apartment that just months ago was perfectly adequate but suddenly seems so small.

He tells me he is working on a script for a television adaptation of The Adulterants and considering his next novel (either a historical comedy or something about parenthood).

The waitress comes to clear our plates and Dunthorne asks if the leftovers can be boxed up for him to take home to his wife, who has been looking after their son while he enjoys lunch in one of their favourite restaurants. “She loves the food here,” says Dunthorne. Joe Dunthorne is not Oliver Tate.

WILD ABANDON When it came to writing his second novel, Dunthorne wanted to write about a world he had not experienced, but he did incorporate elements of his own life. “I was combining elements of my relationship with both my sisters in that brother-sister relationship between Kate and Albert,” he says. “It was helpful because so much of the rest of the novel was completely alien to me. There was a huge research cave I had to enter so it really helped to be able to draw on a personal character.”

THE ADULTERANTS “The big challenge writing about someone like Ray is how to get a reader to finish a book narrated by somebody who is, on the surface, so hateable,” says Dunthorne. “I think that’s the power of good jokes. Even when the character seems extremely irritating and unforgivable, if he’s making you laugh, whether he knows it or not, then hopefully the reader is carried along on that energy. That’s my aim.”

OPEN SKIES / 43

This programme is offered outside Dubai and KHDA bears no responsibility for the programme

COLUMN

ART THEFT AND ROMANCE

Dom Joly has a rule for special occasions: if you’re thinking of making an effort… don’t IMAGE: Adam Patterson

0.1278° W

LONDON

51.5074° N

Valentine’s Day is a tricky one in the Joly household.

I loathe days where you’re expected to behave in some particular way.

I’m always in a bad mood on New Year’s Eve and have a phobia of being one of those couples sitting in a restaurant full of other couples eating their meal silently while they desperately think of something to say. I thrive on spontaneity. I like doing things on a whim. My wife’s birthday is in February and I often try and do a joint thing in between the two dates. It doesn’t always work out.

Last year was a big birthday for her. She specifically told me that she didn’t want a big deal made. I normally splash out on a nice present and get some friends

together for a big meal, but this time I wanted it to be special. In her youth she travelled the world and did a series of really good pencil drawings of Indonesian life, so I got the originals from her mother in Canada and had them professionally scanned and enlarged before being professionally framed. I then got the hotel that we were staying in to hang one in our room.

For more humour from Dom Joly, check out Trigger Happy TV, showing on Comedy TV on ice.

LONDON

As you can imagine, I was very pleased with myself. Unfortunately, when we checked into our room, it was the wrong one. There was no framed drawing on the wall. There was no huge bouquet of flowers on the bed. There was nothing but “Welcome Mr and Mrs Jelly” on the television screen. I didn’t know what to do and I couldn’t tell her what had happened, as it would ruin my plan.

I was stuck.

I made an excuse and went down to the reception. It was a disaster. The amazing manager who had helped me organise the whole thing was now on leave and uncontactable. Nobody knew what room my framed drawing was in.

I tried to use logic. I had booked a top-of-the-range room. There couldn’t be too many? I asked and found that there were two similar to our own, so it had to be in one of them. As things stood, one was occupied, the other was free. I was let into the unoccupied one: nothing.

So I knocked on the other door.

There was muffled rap music from inside and after a while the door slowly opened to reveal a heavily tattooed man, who was apparently something big in Ukrainian rap (who knew?). He spoke no English.

I tried for what seemed like an eternity to explain what I needed but he kept trying to shut the door. In the end, I’m ashamed to say I barged my way past him, grabbed the framed drawing off the wall and exited the room. The Ukrapper just stared at me, presumably thinking me the world’s least subtle art thief.

OPEN SKIES / 45

Zambian Government is looking for a Strategic Equity Partner for a majority stake in Indeni Petroleum Refinery Limited.

For more details go to www.idc.co.zm , email indeni@idc.co.zm and Tel +260 211 843567/8, +260 967 773007

WELLNESS

FEATURES WISH YOU WERE HEALTHIER? • REVOLUTION IN PARIS • WORD PERFECT

WELCOME TO YOU 2.0 How the wellness industry will make you new again.

Turn over to hit reset

OPEN SKIES / 47

WELLNESS

Wish You Were

Healthier?

UT YOUR

ABO READ MORE

EEXTACWIATY IPNLAGN G

50 / OPEN SKIES

Then welcome to the future of wellness travel Pure oxygen tanks in the corridor, a cryosauna in the gym and a carefully prepared macrobiotic meal three times a day. This is the life of a modern-day wellness resort, where you’re weighed, measured and reset for the good life WORDS: Andrew Nagy

ILLUSTRATIONS: Janne Iivonen

0.4907° W

ALICANTE

38.3460° N

It’s while sitting in what could be the whitest room on the planet that I begin to wonder about what goes on in the wellness industry. Like, really wonder.

Seriously, it’s dazzling; the walls are white, the sofa: white, the floor: white. It isn’t restricted to the fixtures and fittings either. The immaculately groomed staff wear pristine white uniforms and appear in a constant state of ethereal glow. Everybody else, apart from me, floats around in impossibly fluffy white dressing gowns. It’s like the opening scene from a light-hearted version of One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest.

My only ally in all of this is a grey (off-white?) contraption containing three small test tubes filled with vividly coloured liquid. It’s an oxygen bar, apparently. Strange thoughts fill your mind in a room like this – have I unwittingly joined a cult? being the main one currently in play. I suppose

the answer is that I have, well, of sorts. Behind it all – and the reason I find myself sitting nervously in the waiting room of SHA Wellness Clinic in eastern Spain – is one of the largest and fastest-growing industries in the world.

Wellness might appear to be a modern term, but its roots lie in ancient medicine; from Ayurveda to traditional Chinese medicine, Greek medicine to organic farming. But what began as alternative has now become seriously mainstream. The Global Wellness Institute estimates the industry’s current worth at US$8.7 trillion, with wellness tourism accounting for roughly US$563 billion of it. It’s an industry that, depending on who you speak to, can offer anything from life-altering opportunities to vastly overpriced yoga mats. But whether you’re in or you’re out, there’s no denying that its success represents a seismic shift in conventional wisdom.

OPEN SKIES / 51

“I think people are starting to take health into their own hands,” says Dr Lanalle Dunn, founder of The Chiron Clinic in Dubai. “The old conventional ways of medicine and the attitude that ‘the doctor’s word is law’ is rapidly becoming a thing of the past.

People are now very receptive to natural and functional medicine. It’s super logical, really.”

Although my own reasons for getting involved come under the guise of work, as a man recently turned 41 I have to admit secretly hoping for revelation. The industry might well be in rude health, but I, unfortunately, am not. I get up in the morning and I ache. The energy I had in my youth, to run and jump and climb trees is long gone, and my diet is based on a carefully balanced equation between Deliveroo waiting times and guilt levels. Conventional wisdom, particularly amongst men, is to grin and bear it. In fact, don’t even grin, just bear it. This is your lot. But in the age of wellness, just how far can you right wrongs?

And so I find myself in a picturesque spot amongst the Sierra Helada Mountains, at a resort that gently nudges the shores of the Med. Befitting its location, SHA appears more a five-star resort than a place of health and well-being. Your stylishly minimalist room has mountain views and the terrace deck on the roof is as well appointed as any beach club you care to mention. It’s in keeping 52 / OPEN SKIES

with an industry that attracts burntout A-listers and worn-out wealth managers by the bucket-load.

Realistically, you could come here to deal with any problem – the 360-degree programming offering help with nutrition, fitness, ageing, reeducation of habits (don’t open that box) and more. However, the growing trend is for a retreat to specialise.

Yoga escape, detox clinic, eco-friendly health resort, meditation centre, fitness camp… the list is endless and most will offer you an Instagramperfect location and hunger pangs through a luxury filter.

Thankfully for me, SHA is of the notion that you can push yourself as hard or as gently as you wish.

Programmes range from the basic discovery package at US$1,525, to the 28-day life-reset package, at an eye-watering US$23,000. For Dunn, these luxury retreats aren’t necessarily about extreme lifestyle changes, however. Rather the chance for you to reset. “It’s really an opportunity to rest, recuperate and just get healthier,” she explains.

My time at SHA, as with most wellness centres, begins with an assessment. I’m weighed, measured and assessed.

Eventually I receive a personal schedule – most days begin at 7am and end with dinner at 9pm – a healthy habits calendar for the week, featuring a plan of walks, classes, yoga sessions and more, and a piece of paper featuring handwriting that only a pharmacist could decipher – I later discover it to be a prescription for probiotics and aloe vera. It’s all quite reasonable until I’m given a diet to follow. The good news is I’m on the biggest food plan. The bad news is that it’s 1,500 calories per day. That’s 1,000 less than the dailyrecommended amount.

Nutrition is at the core of the philosophy here, and is based on founder Alfredo Bataller Parietti successfully battling early stage colon cancer by virtue of a macrobiotic diet. In his desire to then share his discovery with the world, the Argentinean real estate magnet established SHA on his Costa Blanca estate. It’s now a family-run business.

The majority of wellness centres adopt a specific approach to eating.

And whether it’s style-based or portion-controlled, things can get pretty dark pretty quick. With a stunning location in the Austrian Alps, Vivamayr is world famous for both its success rates and its strict regime.

Here, patients will consume a diet of around 600 calories per day. They’ll undergo blood tests, stomach massages and chewing lessons (the ideal scenario is chewing each mouthful 30-35 times).

Both the 5:2 fasting regime and the alkaline plan allegedly gained fame here and it was even the inspiration behind the Hoffler Klinik that featured in the James Bond movie, Spectre.

Thousands swear by its methods and return annually; others talk about it as a cautionary tale.

How about The Ranch Malibu?

Here you’ll embrace long days of exercise in the Santa Monica Mountains, a small, plant-based diet and a fee of about US$7,800 per week. Then there’s the Ashram in Calabasas that’s so strict that it allegedly made Julia Roberts run away and Oprah cry.

But as hard as these resorts undoubtedly can be, the reality of any health change begins in the kitchen.

“GO FOR WALKS; GO TO THE PARK, THE BEACH. IT INSTANTLY MAKES YOU FEEL BETTER AND REALIGNS YOUR PRIORITIES”

WELLNESS

“We now live in a world where the quality of food has degraded to a shocking level,” explains Dunn.

“Over the past 60 years, the use of pesticides and herbicides have contributed hugely to the emergence of the label: organic. Our grandparents ate organic, of course, but back then it was just called food. Milk, eggs and meat free of hormones… vegetables, grains and fruits all free of chemicals. Because the quality of our food is now so toxic, we live in a time where inflammation is an epidemic – and this is a precursor to every autoimmune disease out there. You are what you eat is a truth.”

I’m not expecting much as I make my way to the rooftop terrace for my first meal at SHA, but here’s where being at a resort helps. If I’d been told to follow this diet at home, chances are I would have tried it for a day and then given up. But as I walk to my table, one offering a full view of the sun melting into the mountains, I’m feeling pretty good about it all.

Then the food arrives.

It’s small, that’s the take-home message. But it’s also beautifully presented. It’s only a bowl of gazpacho soup, but it wouldn’t look out of place in a high-end restaurant. There’s always a soup course at SHA – even at breakfast – generally followed by a vegetarian dish, or fish if you’re really lucky, and then even a dessert. It’s genuinely tasty and, despite the size, the slow pace at which you’re encouraged to eat means you leave the table feeling satisfied. Before I head back to my room for the night, I spare a moment for those here on the Kushi diet – 700 daily calories named after the Japanese dietician who popularised macrobiotics. I take a drink of the delicious apple and cinnamon tea in their honour.

Like dealing with children –

ALICANTE

LOCATION: SIERRA HELADA, ALICANTE VISIT: JUNE-AUGUST CURRENT TEMP: LOW 43°F/HIGH 61°F SEE: THE SIERRA HELADA NATIONAL PARK Looking to try some meditation, gentle exercises or even help to fall asleep on today’s flight? Check out the Health & Relaxation section in Music & CDs on ice for a range of great programmes.

CRYOTHERAPY Start your day in the cryochamber before taking breakfast with a view of the Sierra Helada Mountains

perhaps because most people abandon all semblance of adult responsibility at places like this – distraction is the real secret to overcoming hunger.

Your daily schedule means that you’ll have little time to think about the rumbles in your stomach. You’ll either be walking along the beach, or to the lighthouse, or perhaps trying tai chi or cookery classes.

It’s hard not to be impressed by the set-up, but here’s the rub: none of this is real. Unless you’re in the one per cent, perhaps – the resort’s helipad and vast royal suite is testimony to the fact that there are plenty of those here. But for everybody else, maintaining this lifestyle is tough.

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BEING PRESENT

Five ways to practice wellness right now Read these simple steps by Cindy Stocken at Mindful ME, and then give yourself as long as you need to close your eyes and move through the list. When you notice your attention drifting, come back to focusing on your breath.

1. SITTING UP STRAIGHT gives you space to breathe, so have a small stretch and then settle into an upright seat with your hands relaxed and open on your legs.

2. GENTLY CLOSE your eyes and soften the muscles in your face.

3. PAY ATTENTION to your inhalation and exhalation, noticing the temperature change between them.

4. LISTEN TO ALL THE sounds around you – if you’re on a plane notice the engine noise, the chatter, people moving down the aisle, the noise escaping your neighbours’ headphones, counting each one as you move from as far away as possible to as close to the sound of your own breath (or even your heartbeat). Notice how you can turn the volume up and down using your awareness (what you pay attention to sounds louder).

5. NOTICE HOW your body feels as your breath naturally slows down.

MINDFULME.COM

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becomes a bit tricky. The juicing, the planning, the prep… it’s just not realistic, and a big reason behind the fact that two out of five people on a new diet ditch it within the week.

If food is the first pillar of any self-respecting wellness resort, then it’s closely followed by fitness. As an adult you simply stop moving. You’re a product of bad habits, bad posture, and bad decisions, and by the time you hit 40 your body is furiously trying to work out which part of you hurts the most.

If you check in to a place called the Extreme Hotel, you should be under no illusions as to what you’re signing up for. Don’t let the fact that their Extreme Fitness Camp is at an ecofriendly, solar-powered beachfront hotel in the Dominican Republic fool you; you’re there to work. Variety – and intensity – is the key here, so you could wind up trying anything from kickboxing to trapeze work to salsa (yes, salsa). You’ll leave with a new sense of vigour, fitness and, presumably, rhythm.

Should you prefer something a little more immersive, how about Mountain Trek in British Columbia?

This aims to help you gain strength, improve sleep and lower stress by walking in the mountains. For those with a reasonable level of fitness it’s by no means an extreme camp; the toughest part is probably when the staff turn off the Wi-Fi in the evening to help you get better quality-sleep.

Back at SHA, I’m put through a decent workout in the small, but well-equipped, gym before sweating through a cookery lesson – more a case of tight scheduling as opposed to fitness levels, hopefully – but the majority of time is spent on yoga and

Pilates. There are certainly worse things to try than yoga on a rooftop terrace in an early summer’s evening, and I come away moving better than I have in months. It’s not all plain sailing, of course. It’s unlikely that there’ll ever come a time when I can chant the word “om” (signalling the beginning and end of a class) with any level of seriousness or comfort.

But it’s not simply physical healing at play here; it’s spiritual, too. Yoga is proven to help with anxiety and depression; it can boost memory and concentration, and even help deal with the effects of traumatic experiences – the American Psychological Association claims that Hatha yoga has been effective in reducing symptoms of PTSD.

FITNESS Go boxing or running through the forest followed by massage therapy sessions to recover

A mindful reset is one of the biggest reasons people seek out a trip to a wellness resort, and while it often seems like mindfulness is here solely to fuel the countless memes that clog your Instagram feed, it’s actually an ancient wisdom that was popularised by the work of Jon Kabat-Zinn in the late 1970s.

“One of our favourite definitions of mindfulness is from meditation teacher James Baraz,” explains Cindy Stocken at Mindful ME in Dubai. “He describes it as ‘simply being aware of what’s happening right now, without wishing it were different’. That’s great because it reminds us that when we truly acknowledge what’s happening, we can compassionately accept it and begin where we are, instead of

wanting to fix or improve something that has already happened – or even worry about what happens next.”

At SHA there are daily meditation sessions, mindfulness lessons and even stress management classes – if you don’t mind paying the US$210 extra. Elsewhere you can go from a meditation cave and shrine room at Vana Malsi Estate in Uttarakhand in India, to a stylish celebrity haunt such as the US$1,100 per night Amangiri in Utah, US. If you want to really get to grips with your inner voice, then perhaps try the St Francis Retreat Centre at Mepkin Abbey in South Carolina. Here you can mix with Trappist monks on a month-long progamme of assigned work and observed silence, all for a suggested donation fee of around US$60 per night.

While mindfulness is just a small part of my experience at SHA, Stocken believes that a retreat should guide participants on a journey.

“THE OLD CONVENTIONAL WAYS OF MEDICINE AND THE ATTITUDE THAT ‘THE DOCTOR’S WORD IS LAW’ IS RAPIDLY BECOMING A THING OF THE PAST”

“From letting go and arriving in the present moment, to resting in the quiet space, learning and growing their understanding of living mindfully and bringing a sense of calm to their lives as they return home.”

As I prepare to leave after four days at SHA, I have to admit to feeling good. The diet has left me more active. I sleep better, my eyes are brighter and my thoughts more clear. Maintaining the diet will be tough, but the lessons learned are valuable. However, it’s the idea of living in the moment that really resonates. Wellness resorts might well be a way to travel the world while hitting reset, offering out-there treatments and, often, helping with serious illness, too, but the key to a calm and happy life is something you can practise anywhere. At the risk of sounding like the moral message of a ’90s American sitcom epilogue, it’s about how you act as a human being.

“This type of emotional health is about feeling a purpose in life,” says Dunn. “You’re a member of your community, you give back to others, you’re connected to family, friends, your professional community, your extended community and every other human on the planet. It also means that you’re connected to the environment around you… go for walks; go to the park, the beach.

It instantly makes you feel better and realigns your priorities. Reduce fast foods, eat more vegetables, do something you enjoy and be more conscious about smiling. Believe me, it will make you happier.” As rules to live by go, they’re not too bad.

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Revolution in Paris WORDS AND MAIN IMAGE: Geoff Brokate

IMAGES: Marilyn Stafford

The photography of Marilyn Stafford lay largely unnoticed for 30 years, an amazing thought when you consider Albert Einstein and Édith Piaf were among her subjects.

But with fashion weeks around the world set for this month, we feature the images that portrayed a seismic shift in the life and styles of women around the world

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Marilyn Stafford’s photographs depict a time when celebrity culture was finding its feet and fashion was shifting from elegant styling for the privileged few to ready-to-wear clothing for all.

Born in Cleveland, Ohio, in 1925, her photographic career began in New York in 1948, in surprisingly grand style, when friends making a documentary film about Albert Einstein asked if she would come along and take some shots of him. Stafford’s friends taught her how to use their 35mm reflex camera in the back of the car.

While happy with her work that day, photography was never Stafford’s first love.

To her mind, her only career was as a performer, and she had soon moved to Paris, finding work as a singer.

Unfortunately, it was a shortlived dream, and with her voice damaged while working at the Chez Carrère dinner club, she was left to consider photography as a rather more serious option.

Thankfully, Stafford had a knack of being in the right place at the right time, and while in Paris she met the

legendary photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson, the man who pioneered candid street photography. CartierBresson took her under his wing, providing Stafford with a priceless mentorship.

The beauty of her work was to fuse changing fashions with changing attitudes. During the 1950s, Parisian high fashion was set aside for the wealthy elite and featured stunning pieces shot in glamorous locations. But Stafford recognised the shift towards ready-to-wear and department store garments, freeing the models from the confines of the studios and fashion shows and shooting them on the streets of Paris.

By the mid-1960s she found herself in London, where the counter-culture movement was having a huge impact on

“I REMEMBER ONE WOMAN WAS PUSHED TO THE GROUND OUTSIDE THE SHOW, THE TICKET WAS SNATCHED FROM HER HAND AND THEY JUST CALMLY WALKED IN ON HER TICKET. IT WAS BRUTAL”

TALKING FASHION

PARIS

Know your label BRAND

PRONUNCIATION

HERMÉS

“err-mez”

YVES SAINT LAURENT

“eve-san-law-run”

GIVENCHY

“ji-vaughn-she”

CARTIER

“car-tee-yay”

MOSCHINO

“moss-kino”

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Emirates offers 20 weekly A380 flights to Paris.

the fashion industry. She went to work documenting the birth of British counter-culture, where life was transformed and pop culture born.

Stafford’s photographic career wasn’t simply confined to fashion and portraiture either. Believing herself to be more of a documentary-style photographer, she travelled the world covering humanitarian issues and raising awareness.

During the 1950s and ’60s, she highlighted the plight of Algerian refugees as well as of life in Lebanon.

Now 92, Stafford is dedicated to making the photography world a more fair and equal place for female photographers, and has launched the Marilyn Stafford FotoReportage Award, which funds women photographers to document the major social or environmental issues of our times.

“I have always felt that photography is a medium to help make the world a better place rather than a way to earn a living,” she says. “Wherever possible I have tried to take the kind of photographs that would bring people’s attention to issues and, possibly, show solutions.”

REVOLUTION IN PARIS

Édith Piaf

“Soon after arriving in Paris in the early 1950s, I found a job singing with a small music ensemble at Chez Carrere, an exclusive dinner club off the ChampsÉlysées. It was the only club that Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip had been permitted to attend while on an earlier visit to Paris. I was joined on stage by a male American singer who soon became the beau of Piaf. Each night after her performance at a theatre nearby she came to collect him, accompanied by an entourage of friends. I was invited to join them and spent many hours in her company. As I was not yet a working photographer, these few pictures are memories of that lovely yet unpredictable time.

“I had never thought of taking photographs of Piaf.

I doubt she would have agreed to it if I had. However, one day we all went together to The Grand Hotel for tea and I ended up taking some photos of her. It was very spur of the moment and I think that’s why it happened. I wasn’t really thinking as a photographer as I pressed the shutter but I have it all anyway – it’s in my memory.”

In front of a Louvre sign

“This photograph was taken at a bus stop. I wanted a background that represented Paris and the reference to the Louvre does that. The model is wearing a garment that was referred to as The Little Chanel Suit. Chanel is very famous for liberating woman’s bodies from the restrictive clothing that had gone before. This skirt, instead of being very tight, was slightly flared, so you could walk in it. If you look at the model she is standing in a very artificial way, women don’t stand like that, but she knows her craft and she’s trying to show you the qualities and some details of the garment.

“The work was very demanding, I worked long hours. After the shoots I had to go to the labs to develop the negatives into the night to send out to editors who were expecting the photos the next day. At times I had to send them by plane, I would have to drive out to the airport for an overnight delivery.

“Covering a fashion show can be like a war zone. The reason for that is people will kill each other to get in. I remember one woman who worked for The New York Times, she was pushed down at the entrance, with her ticket in her hand. While she was lying on the ground somebody came and snatched the ticket from her and just went in with it. I mean, it’s brutal.”

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REVOLUTION IN PARIS

With children in Montmartre

“I’m oriented toward documentary photography and I love the streets of Paris, so I thought let’s take the model and her clothes into the street and photograph them in the places I love.

“This photograph simply started as a street scene as I liked this sign in Montmartre. I wasn’t thinking consciously that I was going to use children in this shot, but before long they came over as they were curious and wanted to see what was going on. They were open and playful and naturally began interacting with the model. I just went with it.

“This was the ’50s and we didn’t have a crew with stylists and make-up, just the model and me. It was very down to earth. The model would get dressed and put on her own makeup before we left.

“You don’t have to take fashion so seriously, although you can’t say that explicitly because it’s big business. As far as I’m concerned I’m playing around with the seriousness of fashion.

That’s why I took the clothes from the studios and fashion shows to bring it out onto the street, where it belonged.”

Joanna Lumley

“London throughout the 1960s was an interesting period for clothing. I think of Mary Quant, Vidal Sassoon and other young designers who were creating wonderful new clothes. There was the miniskirt, of course, bobbed hair and people were walking around in jeans. Traditional formality had simply been swept away.

“My aesthetic was grainy black and white images because I didn’t have lights or flash. I think it gives a certain feeling and mood, that’s what made my work stand out.

“This photo came about as I was working for a very large New York fashion paper and the story was on one of England’s most import fashion designers, Jean Muir. The paper was doing an article on Muir and her new collection. At that time Joanna Lumley was one of Muir’s best house models. Lumley was young, beautiful and easy to photograph. She went on to become a very successful British actress and has stood up for many humanitarian causes. She continues to inspire – and is still very beautiful.”

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REVOLUTION IN PARIS

Biba

Twiggy

“By the late 1960s Twiggy had become a British cultural icon and was landing covers for all the major fashion magazines. If I remember correctly, in 1967 she was voted British Woman of the Year. She went on to try acting, singing and even fashion design but in the end she is remembered not for what she did but for who she was.

“Twiggy (real name Lesley Lawson) was very sweet and young, like a little kitten.

She had big eyelashes and was wafer thin.

She set a precedent for contemporary supermodels and was a forerunner of the androgynous look that is so popular now.

She was incredible at promoting herself.

Now we are used to women putting themselves into the limelight with people like the Kardashians and Paris Hilton, but at the time she was a totally new sensation.

“This photo was taken at a press call in a workroom at a fashion house in London. She was giving interviews about Twiggy being Twiggy. There were a lot of photographers there and I was sitting on the floor, being crushed among the other photographers. That’s why that shot was taken from a low angle.”

“Biba began as a tiny boutique in Kensington owned by Barbara Hulanicki and her brand went on to become an important symbol of swinging London.

Biba is well known for beautiful clothes and were one of the first to make designer clothes accessible to the public.

They eventually opened up a huge department store on Kensington High Street and the interior was spectacular.

It was Art Nouveau décor with added psychedelic wallpaper.

“I adore this photo, it’s my all-time favourite. So much is happening that you actually have to take the time to look at it in order to see the different aspects. The model is in the foreground wearing her designer clothes with a coat that blends into the wall perfectly.

In the mirror is reflected another model, she’s wearing a brown lace dress that Biba was famous for. Meanwhile, two dogs are asleep on one of the designer garments surrounded by chaos. In the background there is a very bored sales girl with an ironing board, smoking a cigarette. I guess it reveals some of the truth behind the glossy image of the fashion industry.”

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How to navigate the streets of Melbourne using its bookstore brilliance (and lots of coffee) WORDS: Michael Harden

IMAGES: Vincent Long

OPEN SKIES / 63

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MELBOURNE

Melbourne is a city in love with words. Anointed a Unesco City of Literature in 2008, it has the largest number of bookstores in Australia and is home to two-thirds of the country’s independent publishing industry. It also has the oldest public library and the highest concentration of community book clubs in the nation and, unsurprisingly, the highest consumption per capita of books, magazines and newspapers in Australia.

“There is a strong bookishness about Melbourne and that’s underlined by the number of quirky, subject-unusual independent bookstores we have,” says Tim White, president of the Australian Booksellers Association and owner of Melbourne culinary specialist store Books for Cooks. “Books and literature represent a particular cultural thread that holds Melbourne together.”

Off-beat, specialist, committed and amazingly diverse, Melbourne’s bookstores offer real insight into what makes the city tick.

POST-BROWSING PIT STOP: PELLEGRINI’S

One of Melbourne’s original espresso bars, Pellegrini’s has been dishing up coffee, panini and lasagne since the 1950s.

60 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE | +613 9662 1396

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THE PAPERBACK BOOKSHOP beautifully small haven for bibliophiles, The Paperback is also a great example of the timelessness of clever design. The compact shop opened in the 1950s with a fit-out created by the original owner’s husband, an architect. The design – all whitewashed brick walls and dark timber shelving – is virtually unchanged nearly 70 years later and it’s fascinating how, in a shop this small, the placement and structure of the shelves allows space for around 7,000 books and for several nooks and crannies that afford peaceful browsing.

Current owner Rosie Morton has owned the shop since the mid-’90s and her brother Bill is the manager. The size of the place, he says, is integral to the selection of books on the shelves here.

“We cater to the dedicated well-read reader, the kind of people who really love their books,” says Bill. “We are extremely careful about how we choose our stock because we have such a small space, so we’re not really appealing to the mass market simply because we don’t have room for it.”

There is a Tardis-like quality to The Paperback – comprehensive classics and poetry sections, the back catalogue of well-known authors as well as their current releases, books of biography, politics and sociology imported from the US and the UK, even tiny, beautifully curated sections of children’s and cook books.

But it’s the intimacy of this shop, the personal, hands-on feel of the selection that is the draw here; its own little world, lined with books.

60 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE | +613 9662 1396 | PAPERBACKBOOKS.COM.AU

“BECAUSE WE HAVE SUCH A SMALL SPACE, WE HAVE TO CHOOSE STOCK CAREFULLY. SO WE CATER TO THE DEDICATED WELL-READ READER, THE KIND OF PEOPLE WHO REALLY LOVE THEIR BOOKS”

WORD PERFECT

“THE CONDITION HAS TO BE GOOD, EVEN WITH RARE BOOKS. WE GO THROUGH EVERY PAGE OF EVERY BOOK AND THAT SETS US APART. AND I LOVE THE BOOKS I STOCK – EVEN WHEN THEY’RE NOT VALUABLE. I STILL GET EXCITED BY PEOPLE’S COLLECTIONS”

KAY CRADDOCK ANTIQUARIAN BOOKSELLER here’s something distinctly Harry Potteresque about Kay Craddock’s gorgeous second-hand and antique bookstore.

The space helps – a semi basement in the neo-gothic Assembly Hall building on Melbourne’s prestigious Collins Street – as do the owls, nearly 1,000 of them in all shapes, sizes and colours, sitting on shelves or in the glass display cabinets massed on rafters. Classical music plays quietly, the floors are carpeted, the shop assistants are well-dressed and well-spoken.

But it’s when you start to browse that the magic really happens. There might be a book of photos by Michael Cooper of rock stars in the 1960s and ’70s, signed by the artists themselves – the Rolling Stones, Leonard Cohen, Carly Simon, Marianne Faithful. Or perhaps a collection of literature that arrived on one of the first English ships that came

POST-BROWSING PIT STOP: NEAPOLI

A stylish two-level café and bar serving an excellent coffee, cold-pressed juices and a range of super-healthy, really tasty salads.

30 RUSSELL PLACE, MELBOURNE | +613 9650 5020

to Australia, or rare books of military history, poetry and children’s stories.

Books here have been sold for US$200,000.

But a four-dollar tray has also been a longstanding feature. Anyone who loves books is welcome here.

Craddock started the business as a second-hand store with her parents in 1965 but then refined her focus to books before moving to Collins Street in 1990. The store became renowned internationally and people approach her with their valuable book collections. She’s happy to stock anything, as long as she likes it and it’s in good condition.

“We treat all the books with the same respect – that, perhaps, is the secret to our success,” she says. “The condition has to be good, even with rare books. We go through every page of every book and that sets us apart. And I love the books I stock – even when they’re not valuable. I still get excited by people’s collections.”

156 COLLINS ST, MELBOURNE | +613 9654 8506 | KAYCRADDOCK.COM OPEN SKIES / 65

THE LITTLE BOOKROOM

“I SEE THE SHOP AS BEING A COMMUNITY HUB… A THIRD PLACE BETWEEN HOME AND WORK AND HOME AND SCHOOL, WHERE PEOPLE CAN COME AND HANG OUT AND SHARE OUR PASSION FOR BOOKS”

he Little Bookroom has been selling children’s books since 1960, which makes it, according to current owner Leesa Lambert, “definitely the oldest children’s book store in Australia but perhaps also in the world too, we think”.

Originally opened in Melbourne’s CBD, the store recently moved to the inner-city suburb of Carlton but took all the original shelving and furniture with it, neatly preserving the link to its history.

It still does what it’s been doing since day one – selling books for children aged 0-12 – though it does stock some YA fiction and a small section of adult books to give the parents something to browse as the kids make a selection.

There’s an emphasis on local authors and illustrators, something Leesa says 66 / OPEN SKIES

POST-BROWSING PIT STOP: BABAJAN

A modern Turkish café and bakery serving excellent pastries, salads and good coffee.

713 NICHOLSON STREET, CARLTON NORTH | +613 9388 9814

“is pretty easy to manage in Melbourne because there are six local independent publishers producing hardcover picture books, so we have a range here that you won’t find anywhere else in the world.”

The store also acts as a kind of meeting place for parents and kids with a section of the store set aside for regular storytelling events.

“I think of the shop as being a community hub, a third place between home and work and home and school, where people come and hang out and we can share our passion for books and our love of reading,” says Leesa. “We don’t think of ourselves as selling stuff, we think of ourselves as matching kids with books and helping people find gifts that are going to keep giving.”

759 NICHOLSON STREET, CARLTON NORTH. | +613 9387 9837 | LITTLEBOOKROOM.COM.AU

WORD PERFECT

MELBOURNE

Emirates offers three daily flights to Melbourne. Choose from two non-stop services, and a third service that stops in Singapore.

POST-BROWSING PIT STOP: BRUNETTI

READINGS eadings is the largest independent bookseller in Australia with seven stores in Melbourne.

The original store in Lygon Street is its spiritual home.

Mark Rubbo has owned Readings since 1976. He worked for the original owners and bought the store from them at a time when Australian publishing was in the throes of a renaissance. “I think our success is due to the fact that we started when Australian publishing started, when people wanted to read about Australian stories told in Australian voices,” he says.

“It was always my vision that Readings should be integral to that, so we’ve become embedded in the promotion of Australian writing and publishing, with deep roots in that culture and society.”

Located a couple of blocks away from the University of Melbourne and situated

on a street that had become the centre of bohemian and artistic life in Melbourne in the mid-’70s, Readings was ideally placed amidst a crowd hungry for new voices. It has stuck diligently to its mission statement, and now even runs an annual writing prize with three awards for new Australian fiction, young adult fiction and children’s fiction.

The Lygon Street store boasts an expansive collection of Australian fiction and non-fiction writing, but it also stocks an expertly curated selection of music (including an expanding vinyl section) and movies, hefty poetry, philosophy and history sections, and a strong selection of cookbooks.

“We do the things we like,” says Rubbo. “It’s how we stay part of the community.”

309 LYGON STREET, CARLTON. +613 9347 6633 READINGS.COM.AU

“IT WAS ALWAYS MY VISION THAT READINGS SHOULD BECOME EMBEDDED IN THE PROMOTION OF AUSTRALIAN WRITING AND PUBLISHING, WITH DEEP ROOTS IN THAT CULTURE”

A Melbourne icon, Brunetti is a Roman-style coffee and pastry behemoth that operates from breakfast through to supper every day.

LYGON COURT, 380 LYGON STREET CARLTON. | +613 9347 2801 OPEN SKIES / 67

BRIEFING

NEWS • INSIDE EMIRATES • DESTINATION • VISA • UAE SMART GATE • ROUTE MAP • FLEET

HIGH-FLYING Turn your boarding pass into a discount card and see the best Dubai has to offer.

Turn over for more news from Emirates

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NEWS

Explore Dubai with My Emirates Pass EMIRATES IS EXTENDING its popular My Emirates Pass programme to customers visiting Dubai between now and the end of March.

The programme grants exclusive offers and discounts across the city by enabling customers to turn their Emirates boarding pass into an exclusive membership card.

Those flying to or through Dubai until March 31 can take advantage of a range of offers at some of the city’s best known hotspots by simply showing their boarding pass (local terms and conditions apply) and a valid form of their identification.

After that, they can enjoy special discounts at more than 250 restaurants and hotel dining outlets in the city, as well as exclusive offers on a range of leisure activities.

“Dubai is one of the world’s most vibrant cities, with a diverse range of experiences to suit everyone and keep travellers returning time and time again,” said Mohammad Al Hashimi, Vice President, Commercial Products Dubai, Emirates. “This year, we’ve doubled the number of partners in the My Emirates Pass programme to give our customers more options and even better value on their visit. Whether it’s your first time in Dubai or a return trip, there is always something new to explore.”

New daily route to London Stansted EMIRATES IS TO launch a new daily route from Dubai to London Stansted in June 2018.

With its strategic position close to the tech and pharma hubs of Cambridge and Peterborough, Emirates will be the first Middle East airline to operate out of the northeast London airport, with the service starting on June 8.

The daily route will be operated by the airline’s new three-class Boeing 777300ER – featuring refreshed interiors and a new First Class cabin layout – boosting Emirates’ daily flight service connecting Dubai and London to ten.

“The introduction of the new London Stansted-Dubai service underscores

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our commitment to serve London, with operations soon to three different airports in the city,” said Sir Tim Clark, President of Emirates.

“There is a clear demand for this service from both business and leisure travellers and we anticipate that this news will be warmly received both across our global network, as well as by the business community based in the Stansted catchment area. We look forward to facilitating even more tourism and commerce opportunities to and from London with these new air transport links, and to providing our customers with the award-winning Emirates experience.”

NEWS

New flights on flydubai codeshare EMIRATES’ CODESHARE with flydubai is to offer travellers even more connectivity, thanks to new flights to Krakow and Catania. The new codeshare flights to Poland will commence on April 8 and to Italy from June 13.

Both Dubai-based airlines currently offer customers a breadth of travel options across their complementary networks, with codeshares to 81 destinations and more to follow.

The partnership initially began with codeshare flights to 29 cities, and this has quickly expanded to meet demand as customers realise the benefits of increased flight frequencies, expanded access to global destinations on a single ticket, the convenience of checking in their baggage through to the final destination, smooth transfers during transit in Dubai and more.

In the two months since the first codeshare flights took off on October 29, over 165,000 passengers have benefitted from the partnership.

Emirates and flydubai will continue to offer travel experiences reflecting their individual brands. For bookings under the codeshare, Emirates passengers will receive complimentary meals and the Emirates checked baggage allowance on flights operated by flydubai in Business and Economy class.

Emirates SkyCargo introduces pharma corridors EMIRATES SKYCARGO, the freight division of Emirates, has increased its commitment to securely transport temperature-sensitive pharmaceutical shipments with the introduction of pharma corridors covering select destinations in its global network.

Having worked with ground handling partners and other stakeholders at 12 destinations. Emirates SkyCargo ensured that handling operations for pharmaceuticals are uniform and comply not only with Emirates SkyCargo’s stringent norms for pharma transport, but also with either EU Good Distribution Practices or IATA Centre of Excellence for Independent Validators pharma guidelines.

“As a customer-focused organisation, we have been listening to feedback from stakeholders in the global pharmaceutical industry,” said Nabil Sultan, Emirates Divisional Senior Vice

President, Cargo. “We realised that it was essential to work with our partners on the ground at the various stations in order to ensure that pharmaceutical cargo travels under the best conditions, not only through our state-of-the-art facilities in Dubai and when on board our modern aircraft, but right from the point the cargo gets dropped off at the origin airport until it is collected at the destination airport.”

Historic agreement between Emirates Group Security and Etihad Aviation Group

EMIRATES GROUP SECURITY and Etihad Aviation Group have signed a memorandum of understanding for cooperation in aviation security.

The historic agreement, the first between the UAE’s two world-leading airlines, signals the importance of closer collaboration to enhance efficiency and security for the benefit of both groups’ customers.

The memorandum was signed by Sir Tim Clark, President, Emirates, and Tony Douglas, Group Chief Executive Officer of Etihad Aviation Group, in the presence of His Highness Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and Group, His Excellency Hamad Abdulla Al Shamsi, Vice Chairman, Etihad Aviation Group, and senior representatives from Emirates Group Security, Etihad Aviation Group, and Transguard at the Emirates Group Headquarters in Dubai.

“Over the years, Emirates Group Security has built strong expertise and capabilities to successfully navigate the complex landscape of security risks and threats in aviation,” said HH Sheikh Ahmed. “Through this agreement, Emirates Group Security and Transguard will collaborate with Etihad Aviation Group to share know-how and extend aviation security services in order to better handle shared challenges, which ultimately benefits travellers.”

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Upgrade your airline

Just some of the reasons why Emirates Economy Class is the best in the world

ENJOY UP TO 3,000 CHANNELS OF INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Featuring live TV (on select aircraft), loads of music, podcasts, audio books, and the widest selection of world movies and music on the largest personal screens in the industry at 13.3 inches.

YOUNG FLYERS GET SPECIAL ATTENTION WHEN ON BOARD There’s priority boarding for families, dedicated children’s inflight entertainment, exclusive travel-themed bags, and books from Lonely Planet Kids. A selection of meals also come in specially designed snack boxes.

WORLD-CLASS SERVICE A multilingual cabin crew speaks more than 60 languages and comes from more than 135 nationalities.

YOU’RE NOW ENTERING A WI-FI ZONE Everyone gets 20mb free Wi-Fi on board – unless you’re an Emirates Skywards Gold or Platinum member in Economy… then it’s unlimited free Wi-Fi.

YOU’LL GET AMENITY KITS PACKED WITH TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Six new kits inspired by Expo 2020 include all you’ll need – from an eye mask to a toothbrush.

THE CHANCE TO KICK BACK AND RELAX IS NEVER FAR AWAY You can enjoy complimentary wines, spirits and cocktails throughout your flight.

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INSIDE EMIRATES

USE THE SOFT AND WARM ECOTHREAD™ BLANKETS Emirates’ newly introduced Economy Class blanket is made from patented ecoTHREAD™. Each blanket has 28 300ml recycled plastic bottles woven into the fabric.

REGIONALLY INSPIRED MEALS BY EMIRATES’ MASTER CHEFS Emirates serves more than 110 million meals a year, with fresh ingredients courtesy of long-standing global partnerships and through support of local suppliers and artisans.

YOU’LL HAVE TO WORK HARD TO OVERPACK You’ve got a free baggage allowance of up to 35kg.

THOSE WHO LOVE TO TEXT CAN REST EASY Stay connected with mobile phone and data roaming services.

IF YOU’RE LOOKING TO SNACK, YOU’RE REALLY IN LUCK Still hungry after a meal?

Grab one of the tasty light bites available throughout the flight.

FRESHEN UP Emirates Skywards Blue members enjoy pay-perentry access to its global network of lounges. Payper-entry access in Dubai is available to all.

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CHRISTCHURCH

Emirates flies daily to Christchurch (via Sydney) with the A380, so enjoy our guide to this smartly emerging city

CHRISTCHURCH IS A city in transition. The largest population centre on New Zealand’s South Island, it’s in the midst of a long process of reconstruction.

Now a new Christchurch is emerging. One that is a vibrant, ever-changing destination that thrives on urban regeneration and creativity. An example of that can be found in the Cardboard Cathedral, designed

by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. ‘Transitional’ in nature, it was built to compensate for the temporary loss of Christchurch Cathedral.

Then there’s the Container Mall, built from colourful shipping containers, and the wealth of sustainable buildings that have transformed the city, which is nestled serenely around the River Avon. In essence, street art, a booming hospitality scene and state-of-the-art architecture are changing the way the city looks, feels and functions.

Christchurch remains, however, very much a garden city. Its Botanic Gardens, Mona Vale and Hagley Park have helped sustain that reputation.

It also remains a gateway to the wider Canterbury region and the rest of South Island, with all its snowcapped peaks, waterfalls, glaciers and lakes.

EK412 departs Dubai at 10:15 hours, connecting with southbound services from European destinations such as Amsterdam, Barcelona, London, Manchester and many more of Emirates’ Europe services. EK412 makes a brief stop in Sydney before arriving in Christchurch at 13:50 hours the next day (local time). The return flight EK413 departs Christchurch at 18:45 hours, and arrives in Dubai at 05:15 hours the next day after its stop in Sydney.

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DESTINATION

TWENTY SEVEN STEPS

ROOTS

GATHERINGS

twentysevensteps. co.nz

rootsrestaurant.co.nz

gatherings.co.nz

Situated up – yes, you’ve guessed it – 27 steps off picturesque New Regent Street, this popular modern European restaurant spans four shop fronts and favours locallysourced seasonal ingredients. Run by Emma Mettrick and Paul Howell, expect hearty, flavoursome meals that require no explanation.

THE GEORGE

A small but luxurious boutique hotel, The George survived Christchurch’s recent history unscathed and for a brief period was the only operational hotel in the city’s central business district.

Overlooking Hagley Park and the River Avon, it is a short walk from the city centre and has 53 modern and spacious rooms. thegeorge.com

BOTANIC GARDENS

Arguably the best attraction in the city, the Botanic Gardens were founded in 1863 with the planting of a solitary English oak tree.

Since then it has been transformed into an elegantly cultivated 21-hectare park, with more than 10 different gardens framed by mature trees and expansive lawns. ccc.govt.nz

If you fancy exploring, it’s worth travelling the 12km to Lyttelton to experience one of the country’s finest restaurants. Awardwinning, with an open kitchen, two dining rooms and a courtyard situated in a private garden, Roots offers innovative seasonal degustation menus crafted from the highest quality ingredients.

Serving modern bistro-style cuisine, Gatherings – or Gatherings Restaurant and Living Wine Bar, to give it its full name – is the brainchild of chef Alex Davies.

With a focus on sustainable, local and seasonal food, it offers a daily set menu of five courses. Expect the likes of beetroot gazpacho with cherries and goat cheese.

HERITAGE CHRISTCHURCH

HOTEL MONTREAL

heritagehotels.co.nz

hotelmontreal.co.nz

Formerly a local government building constructed in a grand Italian palazzo style, the Heritage is a sumptuous affair with a sweeping central staircase and Cathedral Square location.

Originally designed by Joseph Clark Maddison and opened in 1913, it is a regular winner of awards. Expect opulence and luxury.

This is Christchurch’s newest luxury hotel, and what the Montreal lacks in glamour it certainly makes up for in contemporary style and European flair.

Also overlooking Hagley Park and the River Avon, it opened in 2014 and offers 26 spacious suites, relaxation, great food, fine lawns and a sheltered courtyard.

CHRISTCHURCH ART GALLERY TE PUNA O WAIWHETU

TRANZALPINE

christchurchartgallery. org.nz

greatjourneysofnz. co.nz

Reopened in 2015 after almost five years, the gallery is known as much for its architecture as its art. It has a wavy glass facade inspired by the Avon and the shape of the native koru fern.

Bill Culbert’s Bebop installation is a new acquisition.

If you have the time then it’s well worth catching the Tranzalpine train south from Christchurch to Greymouth. The line is 223km long and winds its way through some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, crossing four viaducts and travelling through 16 tunnels en route.

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COMFORT

Comfort in the air

To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

Smart Traveller

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER

Rehydrate with water or juices frequently.

Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY

Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

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WEAR GLASSES

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

AT THE AIRPORT

USE SKIN MOISTURISER

Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

KEEP MOVING

Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.

DURING THE FLIGHT

MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

SHARPS BOXES

Sharps boxes are available onboard all Emirates flights for safe disposal of medical equipment.

Please ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE

Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

When every breath weighs you down and your strength begins to fade, you need a caring touch that’s within reach and a helping hand that gets you on your feet. You need a healthcare partner that is with you on your journey to recovery.

With nearly 100 years of medical expertise, Cleveland Clinic Abu Dhabi specializes in the treatment of heart and vascular, respiratory, digestive, neurological and eye conditions.

Every step together.

Learn more at everysteptogether.com To make an appointment call 800 8 2223 (from within the UAE) and +971 2 659 0200 (from outside the UAE).

MOH-GK99608

VISA GUIDE

Guide to US customs & immigration

Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hasslefree as possible.

Customs Declaration Form

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESTA FACTS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE FOR THE VISA WAIVER*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* **

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Subject to change Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Program.

VISA GUIDE

Cut the queue at JFK with Quick Connect

If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs And Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow these steps

1

Have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

2

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals Hall.

3

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

4

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to Emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

Quarantine in Australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard.

Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

Quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • You have recently been to a livestock farm • Are bringing livestock products into Japan • Your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.

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PATIENCE ISN’T JUST A VIRTUE, IT’S AN INGREDIENT TIM E H ON OU R ED

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Be Smart!

Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

Using UAE Smart Gate is easy

1

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the card slot

OK!

3

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE SMART GUIDE

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you have landed.

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT

Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures, across all three terminals at DXB. 82 / OPEN SKIES

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: •

Machine-readable passports from the above countries • •

E-Gate cards

Emirates ID cards

INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES SIX HOSPITALS, OVER 20 CLINICS AND MORE THAN 700 INPATIENT BEDS ACROSS DUBAI, ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY www.mediclinic.ae MOH MH52817-30.9.18

NEW ROUTE London Stansted: daily service starts June 8 Istanbul Sabiha Gรถkรงen Airport: service resumes June 8

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ROUTE MAP

TRAVEL TO ADDITIONAL DESTINATIONS WITH OUR CODESHARE PARTNERS

Visit emirates.com for full details on our travel partners

With 22 codeshare partners in 25 countries (21 airlines and an air/rail codeshare arrangement with France’s SNCF/ TGV Air), Emirates has even more flight options, effectively expanding its network by over 300 destinations.

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*Suspended

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ROUTE MAP

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Emirates Fleet

Our fleet of 270 aircraft includes 256 passenger aircraft and 14 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800 102 IN FLEET All aircraft 3,000+

20+ aircraft

Up to 489-615 passengers. Range: 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m

BOEING 777-300ER 138 IN FLEET All aircraft up to 3,000+

100+ aircraft

Up to 354-428 passengers. Range: 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-200LR 10 IN FLEET All aircraft 3,000+

Up to 266-302 passengers. Range: 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-300

For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

5 IN FLEET All aircraft

1,700+

Up to 364 passengers. Range: 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

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FLEET HERE’S WHAT CONNECTIVITY, ENTERTAINMENT AND SERVICES ARE AVAILABLE ON BOARD EACH AIRCRAFT TYPE

Live TV, news & sport

Wi-Fi

Mobile phone

Data roaming

Number of channels

First Class Shower Spa

*Onboard lounge

**In-seat power

USB port

In-seat telephone

* First Class and Business Class; **Available in all rows in Economy Class, and in all seats in First Class and Business Class

AIRBUS A319

1 IN FLEET

Up to 19 passengers. Range: 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 777F 13 IN FLEET

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 747 ERF 1 IN FLEET

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of

Range: 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m

oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

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Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press

Range: 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door, which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

CELEBRITY DIRECTIONS

Gerard Butler’s

GUIDE TO GLASGOW

Each month the great and good curate a travel itinerary exclusively for Open Skies. This month, an A-List Scottish export to Hollywood WORDS: Emma Coiler

4.2518° W

GLASGOW

55.8642° N

You can find the best thing about Glasgow in every corner of the city. There is this perception that Glaswegians are hard and tough – and they can be – but they’re also some of the warmest in the world with a fantastic sense of humour. So my favourite thing about Glasgow is the people. They’re what I look for when I want to escape all the Hollywood nonsense.

I’m a football fan, and might be biased, but if you can go and see an Old Firm game (Glasgow Celtic vs Glasgow Rangers) you have to. There might be matches in European football that have more quality on show, but in terms of atmosphere and what it means to the fans you will never beat an Old Firm derby (the next one is on March 10).

If you’re hungry, you’re in luck. We are the home of the deep fried Mars Bar, so you should probably find a local fish and chip shop and try one – just so you can say you have. Follow it up with an evening out. I don’t drink anymore but you are not going to struggle for fun in Glasgow, believe me.

They have some great sports bars and a pretty special live music scene.

If you don’t mind a drive, take a trip to the Highlands the following day.

My family lives there now, and when I’m in the garden just looking at the mountain ranges, you realise that Scotland is one of the most beautiful countries in the world. If you’re there, you have to experience it. Back in the city, Glasgow is full of culture, packed with magnificent buildings and incredible castles. In my opinion it rivals any country in Europe for beauty and architecture.

The best time to visit? That’s easy. New Year’s Eve and the days building up to it for Hogmanay – it’s stunning. Other than that, well I have a pretty good diet most of the year, but that goes out the window in Glasgow; so my perfect day is fried food, football and family.

THE DETAILS EAT Deep fried Mars Bar | Blue Lagoon SEE Old Firm derby | Ibrox/Celtic Park ENJOY The people | They’re everywhere CHECK OUT The Castles | Bothwell Emirates flies twice daily to Glasgow with the Boeing 777-300ER.

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EXPERIENCE Live music | Blackfriars CHILL The scenery | The Highlands

GLASGOW

‫بـــرواز دبـــي ‪DUBAI FRAME‬‬ ‫تمت ــع بزيارة ومش ــاهدة ديب الحديثة المتمثلة يف‬ ‫أبراج ش ــارع الش ــيخ زايد وديب القديمة يف معالم‬ ‫مناطق ديرة‪ ،‬أم هرير والكرامة وكن ش ــاهدًا على‬ ‫المعل ــم الحض ــاري ال ــذي ير ب ــط بي ــن الماض ــي‬ ‫والحاض ــر من عل ٍو ش ــاهق‪.‬‬

‫م ــن داخ ـ ـ ـ ـ ـ ــل الدول ـ ـ ـ ـ ـ ــة‬

‫‪Within UAE‬‬

‫‪Visit and enjoy Dubai’s modern‬‬ ‫‪landscape of Sheikh Zayed Road and‬‬ ‫‪Heritage Buldings in the areas of Deira,‬‬ ‫‪Umm Hurair and Karama. Witness the‬‬ ‫‪cultural landmark bridging the past and‬‬ ‫‪the present from high above.‬‬

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the new fragrance

Cate Blanchett