Open Skies | December 2015

THE MAN WHO FLIES

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Editor-in-ChiEf Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor EditoriaL dirECtor grouP Editor SEnior Editor digitaL / Print dESignEr digitaL aniMator Sub Editor EditoriaL aSSiStant

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Andrew Nagy andrew.nagy@motivate.ae Ralph Mancao ralph@motivate.ae Surajit Dutta surajit@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae

ContributorS

Andrew Birbeck, Ivan Carvalho, Gemma Correll, Mike MacEacheran, John Marsland, Joe Mortimer, Matt Mostyn, Robert Ormerod, Daniel Huffman, Lucy Taylor, Sandra Tinari. Cover: Bahr Al-Alum Karim ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae gEnEraL ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar ProduCtion ManagEr R Murali Krishnan

grouP SaLES dirECtor Craig L. W. Wagstaff craig.wagstaff @motivate.ae

grouP SaLES ManagEr Jaya Balakrishnan jaya@motivate.ae

PubLiShEr Martin Balmer martin.balmer @motivate.ae

SEnior SaLES ManagEr Shruti Srivastava shruti.srivastava@ motivate.ae

rEgionaL ManagEr abu dhabi Imane Eddinari Imane@motivate.ae

dEPuty SaLES ManagEr Amar Kamath EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Hannah Burden Hamer arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Andy Grant WEbSitE emirates.com InternatIonal MedIa representatIves auStraLia/nEW ZEaLand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au bELgiuM and LuXEMbourg M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com China Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 gErMany IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, w.jaeger@imv-media.com hong Kong/MaLaySia/thaiLand Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, hemant@sonneymedia.com india Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, ravi@mediastar.co.in JaPan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, all@tandem-inc.com nEthErLandS giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, giovanni@giO-media.nl PaKiStan D&S International News Agency; Tel +92 3235345727, dnsnewsagency@gmail.com SWitZErLand, franCE/itaLy & SPain IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imm-international.com turKEy Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr uK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com uSa Totem Brand Stories; Tel +1 4168475100, nicole.mullin@tc.tc Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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114,087 copies January – June 2015 Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

E D I T O R ’ S

L E T T E R

ON THE COVER

ANDREW NAGY

D

uring the Age of Discover y, being an explorer was a realistic and attainable career path.

Oceans were crossed, new lands were found and hundreds of years later, when we got a little bored of our own planet, we went to the moon. People must have spent their time in a constant state of amazement at the revelations.

Eventually, however, you run out of new territory to char t and, apar t from a few notable exceptions, we’re left with the voyager probes that explore our solar system as a modern day equivalent. While it’s vital to our education, development and, quite possibly, future survival, it just lacks the sense of Boys’ Own adventure that exploration was founded upon. Deep down, we don’t want an unmanned probe beaming images back from Mars, we want to hear about a brave and tenacious young pilot risking it all to save the planet. Surely that’s not too much to ask?

There’s every chance that you’ll have seen the exploits of our cover star, Jetman, recently; in fact he’s already something of a YouTube sensation. Also known as Yves Rossy, he straps a jetpack

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to his back and flies. That’s his job. Last month, along with his protégé, Vince Reffet, he flew alongside an Emirates A380, soaring and diving around the giant airliner like flies around an eagle.

The video, unsurprisingly, went viral.

The best par t of the stor y is the ‘nothing is impossible’ spirit it embodies – a philosophy that Dubai has been built and continues to prosper upon.

At one point during the inter view, Yves explains to our writer, with 100 per cent confidence and expectation, that his next big plan is to build an engine that allows him to fly from a standing star t (“You know, like Iron Man”). It’s both crazy and fantastical, but you’re left with the distinct impression that, one day soon, he’ll manage it.

And with such tales of adventure and derring-do, all that remains is to wish you a merr y Christmas and happy New Year. We’ll see you all in 2016.

Enjoy the issue.

THE MAN WHO FLIES For this month’s cover we wanted to capture the excitement and drama of what Jetman – aka Yves Rossy – does.

Dubai-based photographer Bahr Al-Alum Karim decided to pare everything back and dispense with the high-tech gadgetry, instead asking us simply to meet him eyeto-eye. Just how Yves would like it.

NOW AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD

“HE STRAPS A JETPACK TO HIS BACK AND FLIES. UNSURPRSINGLY, HE’S ALSO AN INTERNET SENSATION”

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LOOK OUT FOR THIS ICON ON EACH STORY IN OPEN SKIES FOR AN INSIGHT INTO THE WORLD OF EMIRATES

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C O N T E N T S

FRONT

20 26 28 31 38 Experience

Flashback

Entrepreneur

Lunch With

Stay

44 55 Neighbourhood

Local Knowledge

MAIN

68 86 96 Ready To Fly

Ghosts Of The Glasgow Rock School

From There To Eternity

BRIEFING

110 118 120 122 124 Emirates News

Inside Emirates

Destination

Comfort

128 130 136 138 UAE Smart Gate

Route Map

The Fleet

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Knowledge

Visas, Quick Connect & Quarantine Information

C O N T R I B U T O R S

DECEMBER Some of the people who helped create this issue of Open Skies ANDREW BIRBECK

IVAN CARVALHO

MIKE MACEACHERAN

JOE MORTIMER

Andrew is an Edinburgh-born author, writer and blogger who contributes regularly to a broad range of international and national titles. This month he gets into the head of Frank Sinatra to explain his life at Twin Palm Estate.

Ivan is the Milan correspondent for Monocle magazine. In his free time he likes to attend wine tastings to learn about Italy’s many unique grape varieties. This month he delves into Lisbon’s Chiado district.

Mike is a Glasgow-born writer with credits at the BBC, Lonely Planet, Esquire, CNN, Conde Nast Traveller, Wall Street Journal, and The Scotsman. This month he writes on the legendary Scottish music venue, King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut.

Joe is a travel writer of no fixed abode, currently roaming around Central America and Mexico. He writes for magazines, wesbites and his own blog. This month he photographed the design ace Andre Fu in Hong Kong’s The Upper House.

“A song can capture a moment in time, but so too can a house. Frank Sinatra was the world’s first pop star and in 1947, the year he bought Twin Palms, had it all. Then out of nowhere, he damn near lost the lot.”

“Lisbon’s charm that it is a little rough around the edges, the architecture has a wonderful patina from centuries of history.

The vibe is decidedly Mediterranean even if it is on the Atlantic and the seafood is unbeatable.”

“If you’re new to the city’s music scene try Belle and Sebastian’s If You’re Feeling Sinister or Teenage Fanclub’s Bandwagonesque – both are touchstones for an entire generation.”

“It was no surprise to discover that Andre Fu, a man renowned for being fastidious in his attention to detail, was also very particular about the way he himself was portrayed.”

MATT MOSTYN

ROBERT ORMEROD

LUCY TAYLOR

SANDRA TINARI

Matt is a world-wandering writer based between Dubai, the UK and Australia. He currently freelances for a range of international magazine titles and ad agency creative departments. This month he tries to work out what makes the Jetman tick.

Rober t is based in Scotland, and works internationally for magazines, media companies and design agencies. He also works on long-term documentary projects. This month he photographed King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut

Lucy is an award-winning journalist who’s spent 2015 exploring Central America and Asia, sampling unusual local cuisines and creating video-guides for her website, LucyTaylorTravels.com. This month she talks to Design prodigy Andre Fu.

Sandra is an Australian freelance journalist and photographer, based in Dubai.

This month she writes about Al Souk Fishing Harbour and discovers that ar tisanal values are alive and well in the city.

“Even after the interview, I still can’t decide what impressed me the most – his uncompromising determination to follow his dream, or his ability to literally backflip into the unknown.”

“Like most shoots in music venues it was dark, loud but full of atmosphere. At one point I was crouched next to a very large speaker. I woke up the next day with one ear still ringing.”

“In Hong Kong, a city packed with glamorous hotels and soaring skyscrapers, The Upper House excels, so it was an honour to meet the man behind the unique design concept.”

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“With its focus on the provenance of materials and processes, Made

By Native shows that an independent handcrafted, heritage brand can thrive here, revealing an increasing depth and maturity to our young city.”

Carefully curated content focused on unique experiences The Force Awakens

Lunch With

Stay

Local Knowledge

31

38

55

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FRONT

E x p E r i E n c E

December 2

NatioNal Day UAE

The UAE National Day is the identity of the country, it’s the day that the seven emirates joined together to be one nation under the vision and leadership of our father, the late Sheikh Zayed (may his soul rest in peace). It encapsulates the history, pride and sacrifice of the nation.

Sheikh Zayed said: “There is no glory without the glory of the country and its citizens. We have to be proud of our forefathers, who were able to face the harshness of life with a strong will and dedication to shape a better future.”

The National Day is not only a celebration of the country’s present achievements but also of the sacrifice and hard work our forefathers endured to put this nation on the right path.

This is a day when all cultures, ethnicities and ages come together; when the flag is raised in homes on almost every street.

Each colour of the flag has a story; the black represents the spread of early Islam, the red is the colour of sacrifice, green is the colour of the land, and white is the colour of heart and peace.

It signifies solidarity, strength and peace and it’s a time to unite and reflect on our years of success and prosperity. As Emiratis we celebrate by dressing up and going out with our friends and family. We go to see the fireworks and the famous UAE flag, we go the parades where all the cars are proudly decorated – showing exactly what the day means to them.

Ultimately, however, the UAE National Day is about all that is good in the country: peace, happiness, independence, hope, freedom and opportunity.

Looking to learn more about the UAE? Buy The United Arab Emirates: 50 Years in Pictures, a new photographic retrospective for National Day. Featuring the photography of long-time resident Ramesh Shukla, it’s published by Motivate and available at the airport and all good bookshops in the UAE.

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IMAGE: GETTY

AS ThE UAE PREPARES To cELEBRATE ITS 44Th BIRThDAY ThIS MoNTh, wE ASkED omar al raisi how IT FEELS To BE A PRoUD EMIRATI oN NATIoNAL DAY

E x p E r i E n c E

December 9 – 16

Dubai international Film Festival Dubai, uaE

What people often don’t realise is that the way we consume movies has shifted over the past 10 years. People now seek out films that take you on a journey and touch your soul, make you laugh, cry, and promote open dialogue between cultures and nations.

Although I’ve been the chairman of Dubai International Film Festival since 2006, I was here when the idea of the festival was born years earlier. It’s been an incredible journey that has developed me as a person.

Our diverse team of different nationalities, cultures and religions works hard to

produce miracles. That’s the most valuable learning experience.

This year we’re really looking forward to presenting new and exciting cinema from the Arab world and beyond, edgy and original world premieres of films that may not get released here in the UAE. The slate includes the most talked about movies of the year; those being tipped as early frontrunners for awards season glory, such as Truth from James Vanderbilt starring Cate Blanchett and Robert Redford, and The Big Short from Adam McKay starring

Christian Bale and Steve Carell. There’s an impressive selection of foreign-language Oscar contenders, such as Deniz Gamze Erguven’s Mustang and The Assassin from Hasiao-Hsien Hou. The Arab world will also showcase rich and diverse works from leading filmmakers and newcomers.

We’re an international festival with an Arabic heart. Step outside your comfort zone and see a film that you wouldn’t normally share it with your friends, family, co-workers – you won’t be disappointed. dubaifilmfest.com

There are more than 70 Arabic movies on ice Digital Widescreen, including new Arabic movies starting from Channel 600 and classic Arabic movies starting from Channel 650.

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IMAGE: GETTy

DubAI fIlM fEsTIvAl hAs bEEn voTED onE of ThE bEsT In ThE WorlD, buT ChAIrMAn abDulhamiD Juma ExplAIns Why ThIs MonTh’s EvEnT Isn’T jusT AbouT ThE MovIEs

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DECEMBER 17

Star WarS: the Force aWakenS WorldWide

Using a light sabre? It’s one of those iconic things associated with Star Wars, so obviously it was pretty cool. But then I think that the second you’re asked, and commit, to being part of it, everything is a bit seminal. Maybe I’ll look back when it’s all over and think on specific moments, but it’s very difficult to do that right now.

Well, perhaps except for the table read [the iconic shot of old and new characters together], yeah, that was pretty surreal.

I’m asked a lot about whether I was a fan of the movies, and you know what I

always remember? The subtle brilliance of the earlier movies. The more tranquil moments where Luke is outside in A New Hope and there are two suns setting. It’s such a quiet moment and the equivalent of a farm boy desperate to get out of his small town and do something bigger.

It’s those kinds of universal themes that ground this whole thing in our own world.

JJ [Abrams] has come out and said that my character, Kylo Ren, is well aware of everything that has happened before him, and there’s a nod to Darth Vader

Flying next month? Starting in January all six Star Wars movies are showing on ice.

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– arguably the most iconic villain of all time – in the choice of mask he wears.

There’s actually something really interesting about the bad guys in Star Wars. The villain doesn’t actually think he’s the villain. If you asked him he would tell you that he’s fighting for the right side.

As for the fame, I’m taking it all in my stride. Star Wars fans are so passionate, but I was never going to be the guy comfortable with being an action figure doll. For me it was just about doing justice to the incredible role that I’d been given.

iMAGE: GEtty

in cinEMAtic tErMS, thE rolE oF StAr WArS villAin iS AS biG AS it GEtS. adam driver ExplAinS hoW it FEElS to plAy onE in thiS Month’S MoviE EvEnt oF thE yEAr

F L A S H B A C K

FEVER PITCH

IN DECEMBER 1977, SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER BROUGHT DISCO TO THE MASSES – THEN KILLED IT The first thing that you should probably know about Saturday Night Fever is that it was based on a lie.

In 1976, John Badham’s American dance movie was given impetus from an article written for New York magazine by the British rock critic, Nik Cohn. Tribal Rites Of The New Saturday Night detailed the men and women in the Ridge Bay area of Brooklyn getting slicked up to go dancing and escape the drudgery of their weekday lives. It was classic escapism. The problem, as Cohn himself later admitted, was that the article was utterly made up. The writer had simply combined his initial impressions of Brooklyn with his experiences of the British Mod culture a decade earlier.

As it turned out, the deception didn’t really matter. The film was released the following year to great critical acclaim, launching not only the movie career of a 23-year-old John Travolta, but also the phenomena of disco into the public realm. The fact that Cohn had misled the reader was beside the point; it was the universal themes of counterculture and struggling to find your way in life that resonated with the audience. And then, of course, the music.

Disco should probably have been dead by ’77. The first clubs opened in the late 1960s, inspired by discotheques and dance clubs in France. By the early ’70s it was an underground scene in New York. The soundtrack – by a resurgent Bee Gees – then brought disco to the public. Of course, in the face of mass consumption it ultimately withered and died, pushed on its way by Chicago shock-jock Steve Dahl and his ‘Disco Sucks’ movement.

Not that this happened overnight. Disco still had a few good years left in it to be commercially rung dry. Clubs sprang up everywhere following the success of the movie, the most famous of which, Studio 54, went on to forge equal icon status over the course of its four legendary years (it closed in 1981). Meanwhile, the soundtrack went on to be one the biggest selling of all-time.

DISCO LIVES YOU CAN STILL SAMPLE A PIECE OF STUDIO 54 For a brief moment, Studio 54 was the epicentre of cool, embracing disco and boasting a rarified guest list that included Andy Warhol, Mick Jagger and John Belushi. Its first stint lasted four years, the second only two. Now, on 254 West 54th Street, you’ll find a cabaret club and restaurant called 54 Below. Owned

by Broadway producers Steve Baruch, Richard Frankel, Marc Routh and Tom Vier tal, it’s located in what was the basement of Studio 54.

You can hear the Saturday Night Fever soundtrack on Channel 2560 on ice Digital Widescreen.

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E n t r E p r E n E u r

HUBUD UbUd, bali

Words & Images: Joe mortImer | 28 |

E N T R E P R E N E U R

P

eter Wall doesn’t drink coffee. If he did, things might have been very different for the entrepreneurs, digital nomads and location-independent professionals who call Bali home.

Wall is one of the co-founders of Hubud, the first co-working space in the central Balinese town of Ubud. Surrounded by rice paddies and just a few steps from the Sacred Monkey Forest and its simian population, it’s hard to picture a more idyllic workspace than the traditional bamboo building, which is packed even at 11.45 on a Monday morning.

Wall arrived in Bali with his wife and sons in 2010, after a decade with CBC Television in Canada. He worked for several years as a freelance journalist and videographer, before teaming up with another Canadian and a Brit to create a co-working space.

“I don’t like working in isolation and I’m not a coffee drinker. I don’t hang out at cafes and I don’t find they’re great areas to work in. So we decided to create something like a club, where we would want to hang out. We thought it would be mostly people like us, who had been living here for a year or two,” Wall explains.

After a few months hunting for a location, they found the present address on Monkey Forest Road, formerly an unused showroom for a local construction company. With a few design tweaks and

the addition of a meeting room and café, Hubud was born in March 2013, with 25 founding members, whose membership fees supplemented the initial start-up investment from Wall and his co-founders.

“When I tell people I’m running a coworking space in Bali, the first thing they say is, ‘What’s a co-working space?’ and the second thing they say is, ‘Why am I not working there?’” laughs Wall.

“Soon after we opened, these digital nomads just started showing up. All of a sudden we became known on the digital nomad map and, since then, we’ve had 2,500 members.”

For a monthly fee, Hubud members can use workstations with high-speed internet, Skype booths and meeting rooms, and have access to workshops and courses on everything from digital marketing and business coaching to Bahasa Indonesian.

Members are a cross-section of society from all over the globe: web and app developers, start-up entrepreneurs, graphic designers, digital marketers and other freelance professionals looking to design a lifestyle that suits them.

There’s an on-site organic café, weekly yoga classes in the garden and a Bitcoin exchange, but the main advantage, says Wall, is being around like-minded entrepreneurs who have chosen a location-independent life.

Emirates offers daily flights to Bali, operated by a Boeing 777-300ER.

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“A lot of people have figured out how to be location independent and how to run their business from anywhere. They’ve said ‘OK, I don’t want to be in a nine-to-five environment and I don’t want to work for a big corporation. How am I going to use the skillset I have or pick out a new skillset to be more mobile and do more things?’”

As far as Wall’s concerned, co-working is a means for these professionals to have their cake and eat it, and an opportunity that should not be overlooked by employers: “One of the ways in which you are going to retain people is by allowing them to have flexibility. It’s more than a growing trend, it’s the future. I think that the more people are free to follow what they love, the happier the world will be.”

Future Hubud projects might include the Mexican beach town of Tulum and, if Wall has his way, a project in Cuba, but for now, he seems perfectly content where he is: spending his days amongst the rice paddies. hubud.org

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE To eat like a local…

Try Padang food, from Sumatra. It’s basically Indonesian fast food; spicy, savoury and delicious.

The best way to spend an afternoon in Ubud is…

Hike up the trail to Sari Organic.

There’s a lovely path through the rice paddies, with incredible views. If you go further, Ubud drops away and you’re in the middle of nowhere.

The best thing about co-working is…

The connections you make and how you are constantly learning new things.

You’re open to attending events and meeting people and learning about new ways of doing things.

The best entrepreneurial advice I can give is…

Just go for it. I think naivety can be an asset. So just go for it and you’ll figure it out.

F O R

S H O P P I N G

L O V E R S

CA S T E L L A N A

S TO R E

S TO R E

M A D R I D / D I AG O N A L

DEPARTMENT STORES SPAIN & PORTUGAL

BA R C E LO N A

L u n c h

w i t h

André Fu Asia’s design ace talks interiors at Café Gray Deluxe in the home of his best-known creation, Hong Kong hotel The Upper House WORDS: Lucy TayLOR imageS: JOe mORTimeR

A

ndré Fu takes a sip of sparkling water and a long, thoughtful pause as he considers my question from all angles.

It’s not a particularly tough one, as questions go: I’ve asked Hong Kong’s design star how he feels about returning to his projects after they’re complete. We’ve just been seated at

a discreet window table in elegant eatery Café Gray Deluxe at The Upper House, the Hong Kong boutique hotel that sent Fu’s reputation rocketing and, as he puts it, “got him noticed”.

Looking around the restaurant, which is packed with sharpsuited businessmen and chic lunching ladies, Fu explains that

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he likes to stay in touch with clients and revisit past projects. “I honestly believe that the experience extends beyond the design itself. So it’s important to continue to nurture the venue as it evolves,” he tells me, choosing his words carefully.

This isn’t the only question that Fu will take his time mulling over during the course of lunch; the considered approach is a trademark of this polite, softly spoken young man, who gives me his undivided attention throughout the meal.

However, I get the impression Fu is not entirely comfortable being in the spotlight. He arrives for our interview a few minutes late, accompanied by his PA – who apologetically explains they’ve

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But it’s in the world of hotels and hospitality that Fu has cemented his reputation. “Hotels are probably the most complete and holistic experience that you can create; you really interact with a lot of people through them,” he observes, admitting that this hotel, in his home city, is particularly close to his heart.

“It’s definitely opened a lot of doors. And although I don’t consider myself to have a set style, The Upper House is perhaps more similar to something I would choose on a personal basis.”

Fu’s reluctance to put a label on his style is understandable, given the diverse nature of projects he works on. But his combination of elegance and discipline with sensuous

Although he mAy be compArAtively young, Fu hAs A perceptible poise, hinting At the meticulous nAture thAt hAs mAde him one oF the world’s most sought-AFter modern designers rushed over from another meeting that overran – and we decide to kick off with the photo shoot before lunch.

Fu takes this in his stride, patiently posing and smiling, but there’s an underlying air of resignation that suggests he’d avoid this side of things if he could. The in-demand designer has been the subject of significant media attention over the past few years; the words ‘prodigy’ and ‘virtuoso’ are frequently bandied about.

Although he may be comparatively young, Fu has a perceptible poise, hinting at the meticulous nature that has made him one of the world’s most sought-after modern designers. Just into his mid-thirties, he already has a multitude of plum projects to his name, including the Fullerton Bay Hotel on Singapore’s Marina Bay waterfront, glamorous Gong Bar at The Shard in London, and a pop-up Louis Vuitton luxury apartment here in his home city of Hong Kong.

Despite this controlled, professional demeanour, the occasional shy smile and a glimpse of low-top Lacoste sneakers paired with his sharply tailored suit are a reminder that Fu is not above a little fun. That’s evident in many of his creations, from the modern urban environment of glass and mirrors installed on a Hong Kong pier to showcase a new collection from fashion brand COS, to the enchanting Shoe Library at the city’s iconic Lane Crawford department store.

environments sympathetic to the needs of their end-users, has certainly struck a chord with global brands.

This versatile style, incorporating inspiration from around the globe, may be down to international experiences during his formative years. From the age of 14, Fu was educated in the UK – initially at a boarding school, then at Cambridge University.

Fu credits this period of his life with opening his eyes to a world of design. He spent much time visiting London galleries and exploring wider Europe, which introduced the art- and architectureloving teen to the value of travel. “You’re able to experience places on a first-hand basis, and at the same time observe the environment and the way people behave there,” he explains.

Understanding how people will behave and interact with a venue is key to Fu’s design process, par ticularly when it comes to hotels. “You have to really consider how the guests will enter and what they’ll see; it’s almost like choreography in a spatial sense,” he says.

An unobtrusive waiter arrives with our starter: succulent slices of house-smoked salmon, wrapped in luscious layers over crisped brioche, decorated with fresh micro-herbs and flowers.

Under the direction of internationally renowned chef Gray Kunz, the ‘Grand Café’ style restaurant, with its classic European menu and glorious vistas over Victoria Harbour, has become the

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destination of choice for stylish business lunches, classy sunset cocktails and low-lit evening engagements.

“This is beautiful,” says Fu appreciatively, turning his dish to admire the precise plating.

Unsurprisingly, art and aesthetics play a big role in Fu’s world and have done since his youth, when he drew a great deal. “I don’t so much nowadays though,” he laughs nervously, perhaps concerned I’m about to demand he dash off a sketch on my notepad.

“I think the first artist I was really fascinated with was Mark Rothko – that sense of colour, the abstraction and the spatial quality his artwork has.”

Fu’s appreciation of art, space and his desire to create holistic design solutions led him to set up his boutique studio AFSO immediately after graduating in 2000. The company was established initially in London, before relocating to Hong Kong a few years later.

“I started my business quite early on, age-wise, so I’d like to think I still have a long career ahead,” the designer says, emphasising that he doesn’t want to be confined by previous successes.

“Obviously as a benchmark that’s great,” Fu clarifies. “But, for example, Upper House is a project that’s been loved by a lot of people. I could just carry on and repeat that philosophy – whereas I’ve been quite conscious to foster things that are different.

“Variety is something I look for. So the pop-up project we did with Vuitton, or the installation with COS, it’s all completely different and it’s brought out an amazing side of creativity that myself and my team may not have explored previously.”

This approach has also brought some impressive names to AFSO’s door, including hotel groups Shangri-La, Hilton and Rosewood. Today, even more hospitality companies are clamouring to tap into that unique Fu magic of spatial “choreography”.

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Variety is something i look for, so the pop-up project we did with louis Vuitton brought out an amazing side of creatiVity that myself and my team may not haVe explored preViously “Ultimately, when you travel, you want to be in a space you feel comfortable and good in,” asserts Fu. “I know that sounds really basic, but we’ve gone past the days when people are simply looking for the word ‘luxury’.

“I don’t believe a really expensive piece of fabric or a particularly massive chandelier will necessarily provide a luxurious experience; that’s just a part of the environment. So it’s important to conceive the environment as a whole, with the guest in mind.”

It’s this user-savvy modus operandi that’s made The Upper House such a hit: a symphony of airy space, glittering floor-toceiling views and light wood panelling that takes the guest by the hand, leading them almost organically from reception to outdoor terrace, from room to restaurant.

“The brief here was to create a place that embraced the words ‘calm and comfort’,” reveals Fu. “The antithesis of urban life.”

During the development process, he chose to translate this ethos into music via a smooth and sultry Sade number. In fact, Fu often chooses a ‘theme tune’ for his projects: a piece of music that encapsulates the idea of the design in an instantly understandable

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HOTELS DESIGNED TO SAY YES! radissonblu.com/hotels/mauritius

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aural format, which can then be shared with the team and project partners. “Music tends to be a very good tool for people to gauge the type of place it’s meant to be,” he explains.

Our main course arrives and we take a moment to admire it.

It’s braised beef short-rib: rich, tender and smothered in sticky sauce that’s redolent with aromatic cinnamon. I’m forced to give my focused interviewee a break from the serious questions to actually eat, and we veer off into more relaxed chat about what Fu does in his free time.

“I’d like to believe I lead quite a balanced life. I go swimming, spend time with my family, hang out with friends,” he shrugs. “I try to keep some time to relax. So I make a conscious effort to be in Hong Kong on Sundays, and have that time and space for myself.”

It’s an admirable idea, but one that’s getting harder to maintain as his multifaceted design reputation increasingly takes Fu overseas.

AFSO currently has works underway in Singapore, China, South Korea,Thailand, Bali, the UK and France, and the designer tells me he’s off to Sydney the following day for discussions about a new project.

I ask whether he ever finds it stressful? After all, for a young designer running his own international studio with a team of just 20 – that’s a sizeable workload.

“I do get quite personally involved with the projects I’m working on, and it’s a long process,” Fu admits. “So it’s more about the endurance, thinking about each and every one of them on a daily basis, and keeping track of them all.”

As of next year, he’ll have even more to keep tabs on, with big plans afoot for expanding ‘Brand Fu’ through a new lifestyle and retail division called André Fu Living.

“It’s always been in the back of my mind,” he tells me seriously.

“There have been a lot of people asking where they can buy those chairs, or that light, and the studio obviously has a huge portfolio of designs.”

To mark the beginning of this venture Fu will also launch a scent: a limited edition fragrance created in partnership with boutique Argentine perfumer Fueguia.

“A lot of companies are interested to work with us and create product ranges. So far we haven’t really done that, except for a collaboration with Tai Ping Carpets – and that’s because I never wanted them to be just objects, I wanted to ensure it happened as part of a whole, holistic vision,” he elaborates.

“With the launch of the scent, and other things in the pipeline for next year, the idea is really to build up a whole experience.”

Fu’s potential partners in these other collaborations are firmly under wraps for now, but when I ask whether he has aspirations in the fashion world, he tells me smilingly to watch this space.

At that moment the pudding arrives – an enticing creation of whipped chocolate cream, pistachios and crumbly, buttery biscuit, which quickly silences our muttered concerns about being too full for dessert.

As we spoon the last traces of sorbet from the plate, I ask if Fu has any words of wisdom to share on what it takes to make it in design today. “Truthfully, there is no magic to how these venues are created – it’s about endurance,” he tells me.

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“In the times we’re living in, with digital and social media, everything is instantaneous. People are looking for an immediate sense of achievement, which is unrealistic, and they can easily give up on things if they don’t get instant results.

“But there is no magic; it’s just hard work,” says Fu simply.

On that note, he’s eager to get back to his own hard work. I’ve kept Fu for what I suspect is an unusually long lunch break in his world, and he’s obviously champing to get back to the office, where an afternoon of internal meetings awaits him.

Fu bounds off with an enthusiasm not everyone would be able to muster at the thought of several hours of meetings. But for this design prodigy, that’s the joy of the job: the spotlight is now off him and back on the latest project. Which, magic or not, will undoubtedly turn out to be as bewitching as its predecessors.

The Bill 2 x house-cured gravlax with brioche and garnishes (US$36), 2 x braised short-rib of beef and soft grits with Meaux mustard sauce and horseradish julienne (US$50), 2 x milk chocolate Chantilly with pistachio crumble and calamansi yoghurt sorbet (US$15), 1 x large bottle of sparkling water (US$9), 1 x espresso (US$8), 1 x English breakfast tea (US$8)

Total: US$126

Emirates flies four times daily to Hong Kong. Choose from three direct services non-stop from Dubai, and one service with a stop in Bangkok, Thailand.

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Corinthia hotel London, UK

Words: Louise Quick images: corinthia hoteL There are seven penthouses in this 19th-century London building, each one meticulously decorated to its own theme.

However, the panoramic city view from The Whitehall Penthouse marks it out as the prime space.

Spread over two floors, dark wood and red panelling line the first floor with an imposing leather-topped desk

and numerous books on British history.

Upstairs is brighter, including an airy bedroom, walk-in wardrobe and elegant bathroom with a stand-alone bath.

While classically fitted, tech is here too and each floor has its own tablet that controls the lighting, AC, cur tains and TVs. You’ll also find a button that calls in one of the penthouses’ dedicated

team of butlers, should you need a touch of extra assistance.

Finally, the second floor is also where you’ll find the terrace, along with a skyline view that takes in hundreds of years of British history. A view that we’re fairly sure that Churchill himself would have, no doubt, hear tily approved. corinthia.com

Emirates’ eight daily flights to London will all be served by the highly popular A380s from January 1, 2016, cementing the airline’s status as the largest international A380 operator into the British capital.

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mandarin oriental bangkok, thailand

Words: andreW nagy Images: mandarIn orIental There’s an air of serenity that envelopes the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, which is unusual as in this city, chaos normally comes as the standard setting.

Of course, the place has had plenty of time to achieve this particular level of five-star calm. It was the city’s first hotel and opened as The Oriental in 1776. Since then it’s become a legendary property, synonymous with unwavering

service – there are three members of staff to every room – and it has attracted almost every visiting celebrity and royal you could care to mention.

Despite the 135-year histor y, the Author’s Wing is the only remaining structure you’ll find here from the 19th centur y, which has just undergone a renovation set to re-open this month.

Whether you’re taking tea in the

colonial-style lobby, relaxing in one of the 339 rooms (almost all of which come with a view of the Chao Phraya river) or heading for a treatment at the stunning spa and wellness centre, you’ll find this a hotel almost impossible to fault. Need more convincing? Five words for you: black cod fish finger sandwich.

To our mind, a room ser vice revelation. mandarinoriental.com/bangkok

Emirates flies non-stop daily to two destinations in Thailand: Phuket and Bangkok. To Bangkok, Emirates offers six daily services; and starting this month, four of these services will be operated by the A380.

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CAPE WELIGAMA weligama, SRi laNKa

Words: LYNdsEY sTEVEN ImagEs: CaPE WELIgama We’ll forgive you for letting slip an audible smirk as you recline on a deck chair to watch the tangerine sun slide into the sea behind the craggy cliffs. Because there’s allinclusive – limp buffets, unruly stag weekends – and then there’s Cape Weligama.

Sri Lanka’s latest luxury hotel, Cape Weligama is on the south coast of the

country just a 30-minute drive from the World Heritage List town of Galle. Picking up the baton from its sister hotel Ceylon Tea Trails, it is rapidly becoming the island’s most sought after spot; think butler-attended colonial-style villas decked out in beachy colours and terraced designs of architect Lek Bunnag and you’re getting there.

With 40 villas stretching over five hectares, it’s private enough to feel like a sanctuary, but not too isolated for sightseeing. But when you have swoonworthy panoramas, crescent-shaped infinity pools and fantastic cuisine on tap, leaving the grounds might prove a little difficult. scottdunn.com

Emirates flies to Colombo, Sri Lanka, with 27 weekly flights operated by Boeing 777 aircraft. Choose from 20 non-stop services weekly from Dubai, and a daily service with a stop in the Maldives.

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

CHIADO, LISBON Words: Ivan Carvalho Images: Pedro guImar達es

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Starting January 1, Emirates will fly double daily to the Portuguese capital of Lisbon.

Many cities claim the origin myth of being constructed on seven hills but few can rival Lisbon for its inclined neighbourhoods. There are cathedrals, a castle and stunning river views seen from the seat of charming old trams. Central to this appeal is the city’s Chiado district, a retailer’s paradise that’s home to the

sloping Rua Garrett street and Praça Luís de Camões square, which is adorned with the decorative cobblestone paving popular in Por tugal. A link between the downtown Baixa and hilltop Bairro Alto neighbourhoods, tourists flock here to shop and people-watch at traditional hangouts like the A Brasileira café and | 45 |

Ber trand bookshop, whose customers first appeared in 1732. Ever surprising, the area has seen a new breed of Por tuguese retailers and restaurateurs emerge from the recent years of economic uncer tainty to offer visitors new offerings to whet their appetite and lighten their wallets.

Conventions of Arts 12 November 2015

31 March 2016

Manarat Al Saadiyat Saadiyat Cultural District, Abu Dhabi saadiyatculturaldistrict.ae

FEATURED ARTISTS Ammar Al Attar \ Afra Al Dhaheri \ Zeinab Al Hashemi Farah Al Qasimi \ Salem Al Qassimi \ Maryam Al Suwaidi Sumayyah Al Suwaidi \ Hind Bin Demaithan \ Rami Farook Lamya Gargash \ Alia Lootah \ Ghaya Bin Mesmar Khalid Mezaina \ Nasir Nasrallah \ Khalid Shafar

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BAIRRO ALTO HOTEL

Occupying a well-preserved 19th century building on Praça Luís de Camões square, the understatedly chic Bairro Alto Hotel offers the perfect base camp for a sojourn in the Por tuguese capital. Decorated by Por to-based design studio Bastir, the proper ty’s traditional architecture and ochre colour facade give way to a tasteful décor inside of muted blues, greys and browns, Brazilian hardwood floors and rooms boasting antique-style clawfoot baths. Bathed in natural light, the ground-floor Flores restaurant hosts a scrumptious breakfast buffet and serves a mix of local and Mediterranean cuisine for lunch and dinner on traditional Por tuguese tableware. The hotel’s not-to-be-missed rooftop terrace bar boasts one of the best spots in the city for a bird’s-eye view of Lisbon and the river, while sipping on a exper tly crafted cocktail from the hotel’s barmen.

Praça Luís de Camões 2, Chiado | + 351 213 408 288 | bairroaltohotel.com

BuREL

Worn by shepherds in Portugal’s Serra da Estrela mountains since the 11th-century, Burel is a felted wool made from the local Bordaleira sheep. Today, Lisbon couple João Tomás and Isabel Costa have revolutionised the sturdy artisanal fabric and in their Chiado shop, opened in 2012, they use it in everything from travel bags and backpacks to blankets and bedspreads. The duo has created dozens of colours and hand embroidered patterns for carpets and cushions, and Burel’s soundproofing attributes make it ideal for decorative acoustic panels on walls in homes and in offices (clients include Microsoft and Google). To see the full range of use of the material, adventurous travellers can book at the company’s mountain resort hotel, Casa das Penhas Douradas, located at the Serra da Estrela Natural Park – Portugal’s biggest national park – near Burel’s factory.

Rua Serpa Pinto 15B, Chiado | +351 212 456 910 | burelfactory.com | 47 |

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CANTINHO DO AVILLEZ

Arguably Portugal’s leading chef (his portfolio of restaurants includes the two-Michelin star eatery Belcanto), José Avillez oversees five dining establishments in the Chiado neighbourhood. His first restaurant, Cantinho, opened in 2011, is a favourite among foodies given its laidback atmosphere, informal décor with a collection of different chairs and a menu that looks to carefully reinterpret Portuguese classics. One can opt for a traditional prego (steak sandwich) or succulent tuna tartare to start, or try a gourmet hamburger with caramelised onions and foie gras. Popular dishes include flaked cod with breadcrumbs, egg and “exploding” olives, a risotto with Portobello mushrooms or giant red shrimps from the Algarve with Thai-inspired spices – all paired with wines promoting indigenous Portuguese varietals. A must for dessert is his triple hazelnut concoction of ice cream, mousse and foam.

Rua dos Duques de Bragança 7, Chiado | +351 211 992 369 | cantinhodoavillez.pt

TABERNA DA RUA DAS FLORES

This bolthole eatery just off Praça Luís de Camões was opened in 2012 by André Magalhães, who previously ran the Lisbon Press Club’s restaurant and is a slightly more hip take on the traditional tasca restaurant found in the city. There’s the classic rustic décor and stool seating, and the daily menu is handwritten on a blackboard and brought to patrons’ tables. The food draws its inspiration from Portuguese classics so expect to find dishes commonly seen from the nor th to the south of the country but done with a contemporary twist. Recommended bites include carrot and coriander soup, roasted codfish, minced mackerel, Azorean tuna tataki, duck rice and the tabernão burger (mushrooms, egg, peppers, onion, celery, potato chips). Wash it down with a local drink or try something from Por to brewery Sovina.

Rua das Flores 103, Chiado | +351 213 479 418 | tabernadasflores.pt | 49 |

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TARTINE

It often feels like Lisbon has more cafes and pastry shops per square mile than any other city on the planet, but new entry Tar tine looked to shake things up on the local breakfast scene when it opened three years ago in Chiado. Staff at the Frenchinspired establishment bake on the premises and you can choose from pain au chocolat, croissants and lemon meringue tar ts to more traditional Por tuguese pastries like custard tar ts (pastel de nata) and their signature eggy Chiado cake. Tar tine offers all-day dining serving salads and sandwiches and even does brunch to cater to those keen for pancakes and maple syrup. The décor is less Lisbon and more Nordic in feel and there’s a peaceful inner cour tyard where on weekends you can unwind with the newspapers while sipping on a latte.

Rua Serpa Pinto 15A, Chiado | +351 213 429 108 | tartine.pt

CHOCOLATARIA EQUADOR

In 2009, graphic designer Celestino Fonseca and sculptor Teresa Almeida from Por to channelled their creative energy to open a confectionary making ar tisanal chocolate truffles, bonbons and candy bars. Sold in seductive 1940s-style wrappers, there’s an ample array of treats to sample: single origin cacao sourced from countries such as Madagascar, São Tomé and Ecuador, delicious pralines or ganache sweets made with milk or dark chocolate mixed with exotic fillings such as mango. Recommended flavours include their dark chocolate Torrié made with a blend of Arabica coffee beans and liqueur-inspired sweets that use Madeira wine or por t as ingredients. In 2013, the couple opened their only Lisbon store in an 18th centur y building on the edge of the Chiado district inside a space with stone arches that was once the stables for a well-to-do local family.

Rua da Misericórdia 72, Chiado | +351 213 471 229 | chocolatariaequador.com | 51 |

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CINEMA IDEAL

Set a few steps from Praça Camões square, Lisbon’s first movie house opened here in 1904 and today it remains the sole spot in downtown to view films on the big screen. Over the decades, the line-up of titles has changed but in 2014 the movie theatre reopened to promote independent films from Por tugal and abroad together with a few classic titles from the golden years of Hollywood. The lone screening room seats fewer than 200 people but moviegoers are treated to super comfy chairs (the same used at Helsinki’s opera house). Before showtime there’s a bar downstairs to grab treats (in place of popcorn try a tasty Portuguese pastry) and upstairs there’s a bookshop and café where patrons can unwind with a drink.

Rua do Loreto 15, Chiado | +351 210 998 295 | cinemaideal.pt

A VIDA PORTUGUESA

Journalist turned shopkeeper Catarina Por tas has led a local retail revolution since 2006, by turning her attention to classic Made in Portugal brands that were neglected when the country first fell in love with big shopping centres and multinational chains. Her A Vida Portuguesa shop in Chiado is a must-stop to stock up on traditional products, from ceramics by centenary-brand Bordallo Pinheiro to handwoven wool blankets. Among her most popular items are collections of exquisitely scented, hand-wrapped artisanal soaps from family-run business Ach Brito (try the company’s Claus Por to range of toiletries, lavender soaps or its oldschool Musgo Real cologne and aftershave balms). Then there’s her array of popular foodstuffs from tinned tuna and sardines packaged in vintage wrapping paper to tea sourced from plantations in the Azores.

Rua Anchieta 11, Chiado | +351 213 465 073 | avidaportuguesa.com | 52 |

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K n o w L e d g e

Made BY Native Part business, part comment on popular culture, the artisanal skills at Made By Native offer handmade leather goods that last a lifetime words: sandra Tinari iMaGEs: GEorGE shahda

Y

ou could say that Made By Native is a response to modern-day society. A rather nice leather-bound response, if we’re being honest. But rather than being a company that simply makes beautiful handmade goods, the one founded by Adam Lewis also represents a desire for authenticity and longevity – the very antithesis of today’s disposable lifestyle.

“Made By Native is founded on an appreciation and love for the classically designed,” says Lewis. “We have a desire to

produce lasting products that improve with age.

“In a fast-moving, mechanised world, we take our time to consider the details. While a large amount of manmade products are made for shor t-term use, disposable and incongruous with the environment, we strive to produce products that last and, ultimately, perish without a trace.”

It’s a real labour of love for Lewis, who creates most of the collection himself, from satchels and carrier bags to wallets and book covers. | 55 |

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We’d like to be part of a neW movement in business and commerce, one based on quality and conscious consumption “My interest in leather began when I received a gift from a friend’s grandfather. It was a leather pouch from 1924, and I thought it was amazing that something like that had lasted so long and still had the name and date stamped on the leather,” Lewis says.

Made By Native uses only natural vegetable-tanned, full-grained leathers and linen thread. Using only the highest quality leathers the Dubai company sources its materials from a family-run tannery

in Tuscany, Italy, the cowhides of which come from sustainable farms in northern Europe. Once the leather is cut by hand and the edges bevelled, each piece is meticulously hand-stitched.

“Saddle stitching is a distinguished trademark of our craft and remains stronger than machine lock stitching to this day.

We use linen thread, which we coat by hand in beeswax, ensuring we don’t use plastics in the thread,” he says.

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Made By Native’s ethos and work has had an amazing response in its first year, so much so that Lewis is looking to expand into products crafted with woodwork, pottery and metal work, as well as increasing his existing leather range.

The craftsman says he hopes his commitment to quality will in turn inspire customers to have a learned appreciation for more considered handmade goods.

“We’d like to be par t of a new movement in business and commerce, one based on quality and conscious consumption.”

With a small workshop in Al Quoz, Made By Native moves into a new showroom and expanded workspace in the creative district in early 2016. For now, connoisseurs of fine leather goods will have to view products online or via appointment. madebynative.com

Kicking off every January, the Dubai Shopping Festival is a retail celebration and a shoppers’ paradise, renowned the world over for its amazing deals and promotions. This year’s DSF takes place from Friday, January 1, to Sunday, February 7, 2016.

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Al Souq For a glimpse into the beating heart of Dubai, a trip to the newly renovated Al Souq at Umm Suqeim 2 Fishing Harbour is a must words and images: sandra Tinari

G

azing across the blue waters as the yachts and fishing dhows meander past, you could be forgiven for thinking you’re on the French Rivera when lounging waterside at Dubai’s Al Souq.

Peaceful and charming, it offers a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of city life. Tucked away in the shadows of the Burj Al Arab, the newly renovated souk features small boutique stores, waterside cafes, and the odd hidden Dubai gem.

Located within the residential area of Umm Suqeim 2, the souk is perched within a quiet marina between an expansive

public swimming beach and a working fishing harbour, which sees traditional dhows dock daily with their haul from the Arabian Gulf.

The French-inspired Le Petit Café and Mini Yammy dominate marina-side dining, especially for weekend breakfasts. With a Parisan-style interior, a small upstairs terrace and a large alfresco seating area on the waterfront, it offers healthy dining, fresh fruit juices, coffees and sumptuous cakes – the Café’s red velvet cake and carrot cake are par ticularly in demand. Mini Yammy, a popular creperie, is a bright, quaint cafe that also enjoys a large outdoor eating area.

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With fishermen repairing their Well-Worn nets and the city’s much-loved fish shack Bu Qtair across the road, al souk is What duBai does Best

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For more substantial meals, you can find Al Jalboot, Kalamar, the Italian Pizzaro with its large upstairs terrace, Meat Me There with its American-style food and burgers, as well as Origami Sushi for a taste of contemporary Japanese.

The more active and adventurous hire jet skis or enjoy a fishing tour with the numerous boats moored in the marina. Others enjoy a morning jog along the city’s newest beachside running track, which passes by the souk’s entrance.

Indoors, small art galleries, a kite surfing and paddle boarding store and tourist shops provide retail therapy, while small coffee shops

provide the staple of every marina the world over – ice cream.

With fisherman repairing their well-worn nets and the city’s much-loved fish shack, Bu Qtair, across the road, Al Souk is what Dubai does best: beaches and a vibrant, eclectic mix of local eateries and upmarket cafes, where residents, tourists and fisherman go about their daily lives in harmony.

Small and quaint, Al Souk might not be the South of France – it’s way too eclectic for that – but it offers a quiet glimpse into beachside life in the city, not to mention the perfect spot for an early morning coffee. The Arabian Riviera, perhaps?

A convenient way to visit Dubai’s top attractions is with City Sightseeing’s hop-on hop-off bus. Learn more at citysightseeing-dubai.com.

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A collection of stories from around the world From There To Eternity

Ready To Fly

Ghosts Of The Glasgow Rock School

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MAIN

You might have seen a video two men flYing over dubai after picking Your jaw up asked Yourself a number of being: how is that possible? words: matt mostYn

recentlY. a crazY video of alongside an emirates a380. from the floor, You probablY questions, the main one here’s where You find out images: bahr al-alum karim

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ormer fighter pilot and Guinness World Record-holder Yves Rossy is better known by a different name – and it’s one that could very well inspire the birth of a brand new Marvel comic-book superhero: Jetman.

Yet while Marvel characters like Iron Man are pure make-believe, Jetman really does walk – or rather, fly – among us. Strapped to a two-metre jet-powered carbon fibre wing weighing just 55 kilogrammes, and with only four tiny engines providing a few minutes of thrust, Swiss-born Rossy has been hurtling across our skies for some time now. With the bare minimum of equipment, and using only his body (rather than a rudder) to perform his trademark turns, loops and rolls, Jetman’s flights are about as close to the experience of a bird in the sky as is possible to get.

From zooming across the Grand Canyon, to whizzing around Dubai’s 828-metre Burj Khalifa, you may have already witnessed his awe-inspiring stunts on YouTube (often recorded in glorious 4K resolution, to jaw-dropping effect). But it’s his latest stunt that has the world captivated. Together with protégé Vince Reffet, who’s also a professional parachutist and base jumper, Rossy recently flew low over Dubai, in formation with an Emirates Airbus A380.

Carefully choreographed, the world’s largest passenger aircraft flew at 1,220 metres, before being joined by Rossy and Reffet, who were deployed from a nearby helicopter. The duo flew in formation on both sides of the aircraft, before meeting on one side to fly together, moving as close as just 20 metres from the plane, before flying away.

Reflecting on the experience, Rossy still can’t quite believe it happened. “It was absolutely surreal, flying alongside the biggest aircraft there is. We felt like we were mosquitos beside a gigantic eagle.” | 73 |

Putting the world’s smallest jet-propelled aircraft right next to the world’s biggest was the exact goal of the stunt. Performed over the Palm Jumeirah, against the backdrop of Dubai’s skyline and the Burj Khalifa, the flight was the perfect showcase of how far aviation has come.

The stunt may have looked effortless on film, but it took weeks of painstaking planning, preparation and collaboration to ensure it succeeded. And there were some major potential issues to consider – not least of which was the safety of those on board each aircraft, and everyone on

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Four twin engines fire Yves Rossy and Vince Reffet across the skies powering them up to 33 kmp/h

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the ground. “The flight path took us only over the sea,” says Rossy, “so that in the unlikely event of anything going wrong, we would not endanger anyone below.”

The exact formation pattern was also carefully mapped, to avoid areas of wake turbulence and jet efflux from the plane.

“The A380 is a 350 tonne bird. We weigh just 160kg,” says Rossy. “Obviously, the potentially huge amount of turbulence created by the plane was a big concern, and something we needed to address. So we consulted specialists in aerodynamics, and studied the A380’s condensation trails, to figure out which areas of the aircraft to avoid.”

Once up there, he was surprised by how stable he felt, flying faster than normal, and occasionally just metres away from the world’s largest passenger airliner. “The jetwing can go up to 330kmp/h, and the minimum speed of the A380 is 220kmp/h… so we flew at 135 knots, or 250km/hour – a speed achievable for all of us. Yet even flying faster than our usual speed of 210kmp/h, and next to such a gigantic aircraft, it was really very calm up there.”

‘Jetman Junior’ Vince Reffet was equally amazed. “The entire flight was amazingly smooth. There was no turbulence whatsoever. It was just beautiful, suddenly seeing this massive beast in front of us, and flying up alongside to meet it. Seeing it up close and personal like this, we now have even more respect for this incredible machine.”

Working alongside Reffet only made the stunt even more thrilling for Rossy.

“Flying in formation with Vince, it’s impressive because you almost have a view of yourself, as you see your partner flying on the other side. It’s kind of like a mirror, and it adds an extra dimension to the experience.”

For Rossy, flying with this kind of jetwing had been a long-held dream.

The former Swiss Air Force pilot had previously flown everything from sailplanes to fighter jets – but he’d always dreamed of finding a way to fly that put him more in touch with the elements, and with his surroundings. And so, back in 1993, he conjured up the idea to fly with a wing strapped to his back, beginning | 77 |

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Iron Man has a kInd of fusIon battery pack on hIs chest pack that allows hIM to take off froM standIng – that’s what I want first with an inflatable wing and learning to glide, before eventually creating his first rigid carbon fibre Kevlar wing, incorporating two small engines.

His designs have evolved many times over the years, and he’s had as many failures as successes, crashing numerous times and destroying many of his creations in the process. Luckily, a parachute is an essential part of his design, and so if he gets into trouble, he’s able to jettison his apparatus (which also has its own parachute) and land safely.

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Today, Rossy flies using a carbon fibre model that’s capable of both aerobatic manoeuvres, and also flying in formation – which happened first with the Breitling jet demonstration team, then a Douglas DC-3 – a British Spitfire – a Boeing B-17, and now, the biggest of them all, the A380.

Intrinsic in his design is the ability to manoeuvre using only subtle movements of the body, born of a desire to experience flying in its purest form. There’s no rudder, no wingflaps and definitely no seatbelt, and he uses his senses rather than complex instrumentation to navigate things like airspeed and pressure. In fact, the only instruments on board are an altimeter and a timer.

Exiting the helicopter, he usually does a backflip off the skid, launching himself into a freefall before flicking on the engines and plummeting nearly straight down for a while, to achieve the correct airspeed.Then he merely raises his head and arches his back to shift the airflow and level himself out. And from there, the real fun begins – whether it’s flying alongside a super-jumbo like the A380, or performing the kind of aerial acrobatics that would cause even a Red Arrow’s vapour trail to turn green with envy.

When his timer approaches the 10-minute mark, Rossy knows it’s time to

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open his parachute and begin his descent – though with the extra weight of kit on his back, it’s rarely a standing landing, and he instead comes down on feet, knees and hands. But it’s an experience that’s more than worth the risks.

“You know, we all sometimes dream that we’re flying, with just our bodies, nothing else surrounding us… and that’s what it’s like for us,” says Rossy. “Vince and I use our bodies to move around. It’s the same principle as with scuba diving, or skiing, where you change the balance of your body to make a turn. The wings and engines are just something to give us the possibility of staying longer in the air, but it’s not like flying a traditional plane. We’re not like pilots… we’re more like birds.”

This sense of freedom is something Rossy and his team are even now working to enhance. “We’re currently looking at technology that would allow us to start and end on the ground – much like with modern aircraft. Iron Man has a kind of fusion battery pack on his chest pack that allows him to take off from standing – and that’s what I want. Our biggest limitation is energy – and while kerosene works fine for short flights, it’s not going to work in this case.”

“My goal is to be completely autonomous and independent,” Rossy

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For Rossy, working with Reffet is “thrilling, as it offers a mirror image of what I’m doing in the sky”

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The two-metre jet-powered carbon fibre jetpack is operated using only body movements

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continues. “Ideally we would develop a battery that holds stock for days, rather than hours or minutes. But we’ll progress carefully, step by step, because life is so beautiful that we don’t want to lose it.”

It’s moments like his recent flight that bring home to Rossy how fortunate he is.

“You have to pinch yourself to believe you are not dreaming. It’s magic, really. And creating magic is exactly why we do these kinds of stunts. We try to explore new possibilities, and to share them with other people – and I’m so grateful to everyone

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involved in the A380 flight for helping us make it happen.”

So what does it really feel like, to fly like a bird? “For me, there’s nothing I can say to fully explain what it’s like to be up there. It feels good, that’s all I can tell you,” jokes Rossy, with characteristic understatement. “I’ve spent thousands of hours in airplanes – but this is the nearest thing to flying I’ve found – and it’s the purest experience of it I can imagine. I feel so lucky to be able to explore at the very limit of what is possible.”

It was absolutely surreal, flyIng alongsIde the bIggest aIrcraft there Is. we felt lIke we were mosquItos besIde a gIgantIc eagle

Download The Emirates App – available for iPhone, iPad and Android. Your personal journey planner makes it easy to view and arrange your trips when you’re on the go. Designed to complement the iPhone app, there’s also an Emirates App for Apple Watch.

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twenty-five years since it first opened, live music venue king tut’s wah wah hut is still the epicentre for british rock ’n’ roll words: Mike Maceacheran iMages: robert orMerod

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ing Tut’s Wah Wah Hut neither swaggers nor reveals itself bathed in burnished neon like most music venues. It’s tucked away from the workday rush of Glasgow’s mercantile quar ter, as if the unassuming basement club has been told off too many times for making a racket. It is 8pm, in the twilight sparkle of late October, yet even without a fanfare or flashing billboard lights, there is a thrum of anticipation. Inside, hooded parkas are swapped for rock-show T-shir ts, while others feverishly queue, waiting for the doors to open.

Up a flight of neon-lit stairs, the soundcheck can be heard, all drums and guitars, muffled like a blast of radio interference.

The hype bills the headline ar tist as: the triumphant sound of tomorrow; the audience is in the mood to be convinced. At last, after an interminable hour or so, the doors swing open, the crowd surges forward, and the dance floor turns into a raucous bear pit of revellers illuminated only by flickering spotlights. For one night only, the new heroes of rock are in town.

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It has been a long quar ter-centur y since King Tut’s star ted Scottish music lovers on an aural adventure that has introduced them to the likes of Oasis, Radiohead, Coldplay, The Verve, Blur, Pulp, Manic Street Preachers, Franz Ferdinand, and Biffy Clyro. There are lead singers and guitarists right now – some of whose records you may well own – who weren’t even born when the music venue first opened in Februar y 1990, and whose lives could well have panned out entirely differently had they never landed their first gig at the hallowed venue. “If you could score a gig in Tuts,” Jon Lawler, lead singer of Glasgow-band The Fratellis, once said, “you always had the sense that you were on your way.”

Twenty-five years down the road since the first guitar chord rang out is also not a bad moment to stop and ask: what got us here? Today, the club’s reputation extends far beyond Glasgow.

BBC Radio 1 has consistently named it the UK’s best music venue (“King Tut’s has got everything I like,” praises legendary radio DJ Steve Lamacq), while NME describes it as, “Quite

possible the finest small venue in the world.” New York magazine put a night at the club in their top 10 euphoria-inducing experiences you could ever have, even above climbing Mount Kilimanjaro in East Africa or rolling out of bed in the Maldives.

I was maybe 14 or 15 when I discovered King Tut’s for the first time. It had been invisible right up until the moment someone or something told me to poke my nose through its swinging doors on St Vincent Street. The inside, I still remember, was all muted buzz and dimmed lighting, nothing par ticularly louche, nothing too dangerous. Two bored-looking, rakish bar staff in flared jeans stood chatting behind the counter.

I felt noticeably underage, as if all eyes were on me, but it seemed just the sor t of place where I could fit in. I’d never been to a live indie concer t before, but the chalkboard gig listings, embellished scratches of blue, yellow and rose-pink on black, seemed to spark my imagination. Then, suddenly, I felt as if I were standing on stage, the lights dimmed, preparing to play with a band – a Gibson guitar in my hand, sonorous, crashing

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drums at my back. At some point came a thought that struck with the force of revelation: I was going to become a pop singer, and sell out a gig at King Tut’s. Around four years later, a lifetime away for a scrawny teenager like me, and in the midst of Britpop, I somehow managed it.

First a little history. All great institutions need a creation myth and King Tut’s is better than most. Before 1990, when it was named after a club in the Lower East Side of Manhattan, the venue led a previous life as Saints And Sinners, a dive bar worthy of no more than a footnote in rock history. Only devoted fans could tell you it was the backdrop for the first gig by a band that would later become Simple Minds.

Once dilapidated, with flaking paint and stained floorboards, where acts like The Strokes, Beck, and The White Stripes played their first-ever Scottish shows, King Tut’s today isn’t a recreation.

It is the music venue as it once was, only with a new lick of paint and walls adorned with characterful rock art posters of bands that have graced its stage over the years. The life of the Glasgow music scene remains embedded in its walls, behind the newly painted doors, and it’s popularity also ensures that it is rarely, if ever, empty.

Many might be put off by the risks of life in the music business, but not those from a hardened, spirited city of grey spires and greyer skies like Glasgow. Even to an outsider, the likes of Sauchiehall and Buchanan Streets appear as impromptu stages for ambitious singers, buskers and performers. It’s hard to walk more than one block without passing a live music venue or club, and even in unflattering light, under a bleak, bruised sky, Glasgow maintains a rock ’n’ roll strut.

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It has been a long quarter-century since King Tut’s started music lovers on an adventure that would introduce them to Oasis, Radiohead, Coldplay, The Verve, Blur, and Franz Ferdinand To hear Teenage Fanclub drummer and solo artist Francis MacDonald tell it, when he used to play with Glasgow supergroup BMX Bandits more than 20 years ago, it wasn’t hard to have your head in the clouds and feet firmly on the ground.

“There is a lot of dark humour in the city,” says MacDonald.

“We were doing a gig at Barlinnie Prison about 20 years ago and were unloading the van when a voice from a high window called down, ‘You better lock that, there’s a lot of thieves

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about.’” His take is that cynicism, a notoriously Glaswegian trait, can foster a grounding that ensures musicians don’t ever stand on too high a pedestal.

What is also undeniably true, despite this downbeat pragmatism, is that from the early 1980s to the present, some of the most melodic and sunniest pop music in the UK has burst out from the city’s basement bars and music venues. Cue the likes of Deacon Blue, Del Amitri, Texas, and MacDonald’s own Teenage Fanclub. Reason enough for the city to now be recognised as the UK’s only Unesco City Of Music.

“Glasgow is big enough to suppor t lots of bands and artists, but small enough to create a sense of community where everyone can have their voice heard and find their own scene,” says Fiona Shepherd, music critic for The Scotsman newspaper, and the brains behind the recently-launched Glasgow Music City Tours, a new series of guided walks around the city. “There is a communal feeling of being in all of this together.”

That word, community, not only underpins the success of King Tut’s, but also the city’s other live music venues, which can be taken in as par t of one of the tours and that have seen the early shoots of success for many a performer. King Tut’s, however, is the venue from which every Scottish band, from Travis to Idlewild and newer acts such as Chvrches and Frightened Rabbit have more recently begun their climb up the charts. Even the world’s highest paid DJ – Calvin Harris – had to start somewhere. His first show at King Tut’s in December 2006 was watched by around 150 people.

While these venues venerate tradition, it ‘s the city’s collaborative nature, steeped in DIY mythology and a can-do attitude, that artists continue to buy into. Glasgow has the highest concentration of music students in the UK and the Electric Honey record label, run out of Glasgow Kelvin College,

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is the most successful student union record label in the world.

Run by ex-members of The Bluebells and Love and Money, it released Belle and Sebastian’s debut album, some tracks by Biffy Clyro, and some by the Glasgow-based Snow Patrol, a band who once suppor ted my own group, Volley, at King Tut’s when they played under the name Polar Bear.

“Glasgow’s a small city so it’s easier to get to know other musicians and bands than elsewhere,” says ex-member of Superstar Joe McAlinden, now a singer-songwriter performing under the moniker Linden. “When we were growing up, the scene was most welcoming. Primal Scream didn’t mind us hanging around. In fact, they encouraged us to get involved – we got to suppor t the bands we loved and in some cases even to play with them, too.”

Glasgow is big enough to support lots of bands and artists, but small enough to create a sense of community where everyone can have their voice heard and find their own scene

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music mapped

MusT-visiT venues foR Music LoveRs The Roxy, Los AngeLes If the walls in this famous nightclub on the Sunset Strip could talk. Opened in 1973, it’s as famous for rock band antics as rock band shows, and has seen everyone from John Lennon and Bruce Springsteen to Alice Cooper and Guns ’n’ Roses get into a pickle. Most recently, U2 played there in May. theroxy.com

new AfRicA shRine, LAgos A reboot of the original club of the late Nigerian singer and multiinstrumentalist Fela Kuti (the original burnt down), this pulsating venue is a hotbed of Afrobeat, hosting weekly club nights from Fela’s son, Femi Kuti, now a successful musician in his own right. @AFRIKASHRINE

cRocodiLe cAfe, seATTLe The Croc, as locals call it, played a pivotal role in selling the world grunge rock, giving a foot up the ladder to the likes of Nirvana, Pearl Jam and Alice in Chains. Despite closing in 2007, the Croc has since reopened, suppor ting the new wave of Washington state ar tists, including Death Cab For Cutie, The Decemberists and Modest Mouse. thecrocodile.com

That may have been on the mind of an unknown band of five spirited, mouthy youths from Manchester, who decided to drive up to King Tut’s one night on May 31, 1993. Their plan, as it turned out, was to bully the promoters into letting them open for Glasgow band 18 Wheeler, threatening to smash the place up if they weren’t allowed on stage. Wary of their attitude, the sound engineers gave them a brief 15-minute slot, without pay, just to keep the peace. It was, as history now shows, all they needed. That band was Oasis and the story of that infamous night has gone down in British music history.

Many point to this storied evening as the night that Britpop was born. Within the following two weeks, both The Verve and Radiohead played on the same small stage, and a whole new era for British music began. A hint of that magic is in some small part thanks to King Tut’s.

To this day, the venue still has emotional resonance for music fans. My band never amounted to much – a Scottish tour, a minor radio hit in Japan, a headline show at King Tut’s – but I still feel bound to the venue, no matter how many times I return to support new music from the grassroots up. Like a favourite Rolling Stones or Beatles’ T-shirt, the club has become a touchstone for a generation, but also a graspable reality for new musicians from across the UK, a tangible stepping-stone from which to take on the world.

“The wheel keeps turning,” says MacDonald, pondering the future. “Established bands influence the next generation, even pulling them to the city. There is a definite sense of ‘if they can form a band and do it, I can too’.”

If you’re lucky enough to find yourself in Glasgow soon, make sure you play a game of King Tut’s roulette. Take a chance on a band you’ve never heard of, buy a $15 ticket for that night’s show, and prepare for the unexpected.You don’t know what kind of journey it might take you on, but that’s not the point. To see the venue in full-swing, with amplifiers blaring, is to be reminded of how a noisy, jabbering Glaswegian crowd can help inspire a band, reminding them that when they are on stage, with the lights off and all eyes on them, that the only thing that matters is the power of the music. Because in King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut, that’s how rock ’n’ roll stars are made. kingtuts.co.uk

Emirates flies twice daily to Glasgow with the Boeing 777-300ER.

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decemBer 15 mArks the centenAry of the Birth of frAncis AlBert sinAtrA – A skinny kid from hoBoken, neW Jersey, Who Went on to conquer the World. But it WAsn’t AlWAys plAin sAiling And tWin pAlms estAte WAs the BAckdrop to some of his most turBulent yeArs Words: AndreW BirBeck

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n 1947 Frank Sinatra was at a personal and professional crossroads. Until the mid-1940s it had seemed he could do no wrong and was an untouchable star in a glittering firmament. Then, rather abruptly, it all appeared to fade.

In the very same year, he bought Twin Palms Estate in California. It was to be his home until 1954 and his life there spans a traumatic period of immense change for the young crooner. and, as such, represents one the most interesting periods of his life.

In post-war America, the stars of the silver screen were untouchable and impossibly glamourous, their image, and every move, stage-managed by the studios that all but owned their careers.

Forget, for a moment, the toupeed 1970s Sinatra singing My Way – a song he apparently detested performing – and think instead of a slightly built

young man in his early thir ties oozing charisma, melancholy and joie de vivre in equal measure. Sinatra was the boy next door who, during the war years, had won the hear ts of millions of young female fans missing their sweethear ts.

Twice called-up for militar y ser vice, he was twice failed on medical grounds, having had a perforated eardrum from bir th. So Frank was the guy who didn’t leave, the guy who interpreted into song the sentiments sent home in letters from far-flung militar y bases abroad.

Sinatra was a superstar long before the term was coined. Indeed, his fame was such that he had to be ferried to and from concer ts in the back of an ambulance as it was the only way of getting him safely and anonymously through hordes of swooning fans. By 1946 he was selling in excess of 10 million records a year – the greatest pop singer of his generation. All eyes | 101 |

and ears were on him and his like wouldn’t be seen again until Elvis and The Beatles. From Big Band crooner to instantly recognisable star in his own right, Sinatra ploughed his own furrow. An obsessive workaholic and perfectionist, despite being unable to read music he absorbed musical techniques from those he worked with, such as Tommy Dorsey, whose band he had fronted. Sinatra’s unique style and deliver y transfixed audiences in a way no other performer could hope to achieve. The key, at least to Sinatra, was that he meant it. “When I sing,” he once said, “I believe, I’m honest.”

It was no surprise that, in the early 1940s, the movies beckoned. On celluloid he could perform in relative peace and hone his craft even fur ther.

Radio star to movie star is not an easy transition, however. Many tried, few succeeded. And Sinatra wasn’t

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necessarily big screen material. He was slim, not a natural dancer and had no formal acting training. He was also badly scarred on the left side of his face and neck – a legacy from forceps used in what had been a traumatic bir th. What he did have was blinding ambition and self-belief. Sinatra believed that acting and singing were pretty much the same thing. It was all about control, deliver y and authenticity.

Behind all this was Sinatra the family man who’d married his sweethear t from New Jersey, Nancy Barbato, in Februar y 1939. Kids followed, his daughter Nancy born in June 1940, his son Frank Jr in January 1944. A second daughter, Tina, would follow in June 1948. The family lived in a relatively modest home at Hasbrouck Heights in the neighbourhood where he and his wife had grown up.

Despite being a devoted father, Sinatra’s extra-marital activities were already the stuff of legend. Having signed to MGM – home to the blockbuster musicals of the day – Sinatra increasingly spent more time in Hollywood. Reputed to have pocketed a $1 million pay cheque, ‘The Voice’, as he was known, went on the lookout for a California home, a weekend bolthole away from prying eyes. Just a couple of hours drive from LA the desert resor t of Palm Springs, with its tropical climate and a sanctuary for Hollywood’s elite since the 1930s, was the perfect location.

In May 1947 Sinatra swaggered into the offices of Palm Springs architects Williams, Williams & Williams and struck up a conversation with the youngest par tner, E Stewar t Williams.

Frank wanted a house, a grandiose Georgian-style mansion befitting his star status. Money was no object. Naturally enough the novice architect accepted the commission, but had other plans in mind. The wily Williams presented two drafts, one for the Georgian residence originally requested, the other a cuttingedge light-filled ultra-modern home complete with a swimming pool in the shape of a grand piano. Who knows what swung Sinatra’s decision, but the gamble paid off. Work began almost

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Frank wanted a house and swaggered into the oFFices oF Palm sPrings architects demanding a grandiose georgian-style mansion beFitting his star status. money was no object

Sinatra spent ten stormy years at Twin Palms | 103 |

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Sinatra’s place was ultra-modern and he would record songs from the living room immediately. There was just one catch: the entire project had to be completed

by Christmas, as Sinatra was planning on throwing a par ty at his new home – and nobody said no to Frank.

Amazingly this huge under taking, to be completed in just seven months, was Stewar t Williams’ first residential commission. Floodlights were brought in and construction continued around the clock. Against all odds and at a cost of more than $150,000 – roughly $1.6 million today – the project was finished in time for Sinatra and his pals to ring in the New Year.

The 4,500 square foot, fourbedroomed house was fully airconditioned, a rarity those days, even in the desert. Lines were clean and horizontal. Williams created a building in harmony with its unique surroundings as well as a bold modernist statement – the epitome of easy living Hollywood style. To this day Twin Palms stands the test of time. Light floods the spacious rooms, which are all kitted out in period furnishings – not the original pieces owned by Sinatra, but wholly in keeping with the property’s ambience and history. Best of all is the original Valentino recording equipment in the living room.

Here Sinatra would lay down tracks and beam them over to Capitol Records via the antenna still to be seen on the roof.

Throughout, as you’d expect, there’s plenty of Sinatra memorabilia and even some original ar twork. You can dip into an extensive library of his music too, best appreciated while sinking a sundowner out by the pool. Surely there’s no better way to get under Sinatra’s skin, even if only for a fleeting moment.

The legendar y pool lies at the hear t of the complex, but put aside the vision of young kids splashing about while Frank and Nancy keep a watchful eye.

palm trees, after which Sinatra named the proper ty, have thankfully sur vived the decades. Almost impossibly tall now, they continue to hold a magical sway. Myths abound, it’s impossible to separate fact from fiction and the walls of Twin Palms won’t divulge their secrets and rat on Frank. What is known however is that any attempt at domestic bliss didn’t last. It was never going to. Enter the ultimate femme fatale: Hollywood bombshell Ava Gardner.

Frank would lay down tracks on his Valentino recording equipment in the liVing room and beam them oVer to capitol records Via the antenna still to be seen on the rooF Conjure up, instead, an image of Marilyn Monroe taking her morning dip. She, amongst others such as future Rat Pack members Sammy Davis Jr and Dean Mar tin, were regular visitors. Humphrey Bogar t, too, was a close friend and would drop by for drinks when Sinatra raised his flag out in the garden – the signal that it was par ty time. The two | 105 |

Sinatra’s explosive relationship with Ava Gardner could have been the beginning of the end. In fact it was the end of the beginning. Frank fell head-over-heels for her. She was all that mattered, it was that simple. In 1948 the news went public and divorce from Nancy inevitably followed. Twin Palms ceased to be a family home and

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Gardner moved in. The relationship proved tempestuous from the star t. The sink in the master bedroom still bears the scar, a crack in the porcelain, from a champagne bottle hurled at Gardner

by Sinatra. On another occasion it’s said that he dumped all her belongings onto the drive after she’d tried to catch him

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in a liaison with fellow Hollywood star Lana Turner. But Sinatra couldn’t tame Gardner it seems. She gave as good as she got, and more. Perhaps too it didn’t help that, suddenly, Sinatra’s star appeared to fade.

Record sales plummeted, he was seen as being washed-up, a has-been. His

new TV show on CBS bombed and was taken off the air in 1952. He begged for a suppor ting role in From Here To Eternity (1953) and, with Gardner’s help – her fame was blossoming at the time – eventually landed it. The meagre $8,000 fee was a far cr y from the MGM millions of just a few years previously, but Sinatra went on to storm the par t of Private Angelo Maggio, a role he felt destined to play.

The Oscar For Best Suppor ting Actor bore testament to his performance and marked the beginning of his resurgence.

At Twin Palms Sinatra would eventually reinvent himself. A new, stronger voice would emerge with a depth and resonance that spoke equally, if not more so, to men as well as women.

It was a voice that told of hear tache, regret and love irretrievably lost. No longer that of youthful aspiration and sentimentality, it was the voice of experience. Sinatra’s marriage to Gardner lasted barely three years, although they wouldn’t divorce until 1957, the year he sold Twin Palms.

Frank’s place

You don’t need to make it big in Vegas to staY at twin palms Located in the area known as the Movie Colony, where many Hollywood stars had either weekend retreats or full-time residences, Twin Palms is operated by Beaumonde Villas and available to rent for a holiday and corporate functions.

The seven-bathroom, four-bedroom property sleeps up to eight guests and is priced from US$2,600 per night. sinatrahouse.com

For some all-time classic songs from Ol’ Blue Eyes, check out the Frank Sinatra Playlist. Channel 2184 on ice Digital Widescreen.

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Essential news and information from Emirates Behind the scenes of the ice guides

Inside Emirates

Route Map

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BRIEFING

E M I R A T E S

N E W S

AN ILLUSTRATED YEAR Your guide to over 2000 channels of entertainment

Digital Widescreen

November 2015

Change the record

We’re stacked with a huge selection of music, including loads of the latest albums.

Movies

Tv

Music

Tom cruise is back and faced with another Mission: Impossible.

christian Slater hits the small screen in cyber-crime drama series Mr Robot.

The Weeknd’s new album finds the Beauty Behind the Madness.

Artist Kyle Bean is the man behind the 12 unique covers seen on Emirates’ ice entertainment guides throughout 2015.

Over the course of a year, an amazing array of bespoke models were created to portray a host of concepts that would feature on the ice covers. Bean, who

describes himself as a 'tactile illustrator', then goes through a process of making 3D objects out of everyday materials like paper and wood, before photographing them for publication.

Star ting by reading an ar ticle or brief, he then makes notes and sketches of

visual ideas that excite him and illustrate the piece. Once his ideas are approved, he sources materials and makes the models and props that form the basis of the image. Once the build is complete, he photographs them based on the composition of his sketch.

What influences you?

commissions over the past few years, so I

Surrealism plays a big par t in my design

think the difficulty in making it has paid off.

process. I like coming up with visual

Tell us about working with Emirates

metaphors which can add a sense of

When I was approached to produce covers

humour to my work. I’m also greatly

for Emirates, my instant reaction was that

influenced by set designers and model

it would be really fun to give every image

makers who worked on films in the

some kind of aeronautical theme, but

'70s and '80s before CGI became a

juxtaposed with the particular topic of the

phenomenon in the industry.

specific issue. So for example, my first cover

What has been your most difficult project?

was of a jet engine with signals coming out

Oddly enough it was probably a small

has a free Wi-Fi service on board. This

personal piece I did a few years ago.

conceptual approach set a precedent for

I made a sculptural image of a chicken

the majority of the covers that I worked on

from eggshells that I glued together over

throughout the year.

a papier-mâché base. I called it ‘What Came First?’ The problem was that it took

What has been your favourite ice cover?

so many attempts to get it right. Eggshells

I think it's the November cover (top left).

are not a pleasant material to work with,

I was asked to illustrate the music selection

How long does a design take?

but luckily, after many failed attempts, I

on board so I made a model of a record

From start to finish on creating an image,

managed to finish it. The project ended

player, but the record was actually a circular

it can take anything from two days to

up getting a fair amount of attention from

runway for a model Emirates plane. It was

two weeks – or more depending on the

design blogs and has ultimately led to

really fun to make and very satisfying to see it

complexity of the image.

some very interesting (and often bizarre)

come to life on the cover.

Q&A Kyle Bean In 2015, a series of unique 3D models appeared on the cover of the Emirates ice guides. We talk with the Londonbased artist to discover how his intricate designs are created

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of it. This was to illustrate that Emirates

A life of luxury is growing at Atakoy, Istanbul’s last remaining seafront plot.

SeaPearl has been recognised by Forbes Turkey as “The Istanbul project with the highest return on Investment potential” The shoreline stretches over 1,200 meters and provides beautiful landscaped gardens larger than four football pitches.

SeaPearl creates an exclusive setting and is designed in baroque style.

Developed by the respected Kuzu Group who are listed by ENR (Engineering News-Record) as a top international contractor.

SeaPearl welcome you to a dream home on Istanbul’s fabulous seafront.

TERRACES OFFER STUNNING PANORAMIC VIEWS OF THE MARMARA SEA.

E M I R A T E S

N E W S

COOL FLIGHT FUN FOR KIDS

The Emirates experience for little flyers just got even better, with a whole new children's product.

The Fly With Me Animals range will keep the kids entertained with loveable characters and a unique story promoting

their region, culture, language and environment. Lewis the Lion is from Africa, Peek U the Panda from China, Enrico the Monkey from South America and Leila the Camel from the Middle East. All are available as a travel and carry

buddy, and Lewis the Lion and Peek U the Panda are also available as a magnetic sketcher.

Fly With Me, the magazine featuring puzzles, jokes and activities for 3-8 year olds has also been given a makeover with new characters to meet.

The Lonely Planet Kids range is for older children and comes in a retro travel-themed messenger bag or lunch cooler filled with games, a travel journal, fold-out world map and four exclusive books from the “Amazing World Series”.

Emirates' enter tainment has also been revamped with a redesign of colourful children’s headsets.

Finally, look out for crew members on board who can capture special moments with an instant Polaroid camera.

USE THE FORCE

UNITED FOR WILDLIFE Two Emirates Airbus A380s have taken to the skies wearing special livery in support of United for Wildlife, a global collaboration that unites the efforts of the world’s leading wildlife charities in the fight against the illegal wildlife trade.

The eye-catching livery, featuring animals threatened by poaching, aims to raise awareness and communicate the need for urgent action.

The Rt Hon The Lord Hague of Richmond, Chair of the United for Wildlife Transpor t Taskforce said the collaboration welcomed “the effor ts and commitment made by Emirates to combat the illegal wildlife trade. It is now recognised as a serious and organised transnational crime that drives corruption, is linked to money laundering, and can damage economic development in many of the world’s poorest countries and communities.”

Emirates Airline President, Sir Tim Clark, said many animals are “under extreme pressure because of an unprecedented spike in the illegal wildlife trade. Emirates believes that the global transport industry, including airlines, can play a significant role to break the supply chain of illegal wildlife trade,” he added.

The airline is also collaborating with international organisations to train and better equip its ground and cargo staff to detect illegal wildlife products in transit.

Flying in January? Starting next month, Star Wars Episodes I to VI will be showing on ice.

SECOND ISTANBUL GATEWAY Emirates has announced a second gateway in Istanbul with the launch of a daily service to Sabiha Gokcen Airport, beginning December 15.

Sabiha Gocken, located on the rapidly-developing Asian side of Istanbul, offers easy access to the city’s new financial centre as well as malls and thermal spas. The new service will be operated by an Airbus A330-200 aircraft in a 3-class layout. It complements Emirates' existing 11 weekly flights to Ataturk Airpor t. | 112 |

E m i r a t E s

n E w s

Be There in Milan Q&A with Emirates Globalista, Ashley Have you seen Ashley’s stylish adventures? She’s a pilot and one of seven Emirates Globalistas showing you new experiences around the world. Follow their stories and be inspired to Be There yourself

How did you enjoy Milan Fashion Week?

It was better than I could have ever imagined, from the buzz at the airport to the busy streets filled with photographers waiting for that perfect shot of a celebrity arriving for a fashion show. I was able to enjoy chats with designers about their collections backstage, had a fitting with a stylist to choose my many looks for the week, and took in the beautiful scenery and architecture of Milan along the way.

How did it feel sitting front row at Trussardi?

This was truly a dream come true. As soon as I stepped out of the car in my beautiful soft leather Trussardi dress that I’d borrowed from the A/W collection, there were photographers everywhere, along with a heard of onlookers just trying to get a peak inside at the show.

I had a conversation with the Trussardi Creative Director, Gaia Trussardi, about her inspiration for the collection and as the lights went down I couldn't wipe the smile off my face. From beginning to end, it was the experience of a lifetime.

What are your earliest fashion memories?

There is a photo of me when I’m about three years old wearing a sparkling tiara, a pair of oversized white sunglasses and a red corduroy jumper with ruffle trim.

I’m making a funny face and laughing – probably because I think I look so cool in my little fashionista outfit.

Who’s your style icon?

I'm in love with Olivia Palermo’s simple yet elegant style. Like me she’s American, we’re similar ages, and I think have a similar overall look to our fashion.

Whether she’s dressed in a winter coat and skinny jeans with the perfect high heel, or a dazzling beaded dress with a contrasting belt and shoe, she always manages to look effor tlessly flawless.

Give us your tips for a perfect day in Milan Have a perfectly prepared cappuccino in the Piazza del Duomo and indulge in a spot of people watching as the impeccably attired locals head off to work. Take a few photos on your way and post them on social media using one of the city’s many free wifi hotspots available to the public.

Milan has so much great architecture, so rent one of the city bikes available at several convenient locations, or ride the traditional tram for a nominal fee. Take the bike through the lush green Parco Sempione and see the quieter side of Milan, or take the tram to the bustling Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II to do a little shopping.

The city is rich with art, history and

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culture, so spend the afternoon visiting one of the many museums. You can find anything from modern contemporary art at the Palazzo Reale, to Leonardo da Vinci’s great works in Santa Maria delle Grazie.

In the evening you simply have to indulge in all that Italian cuisine has to offer; there are so many options, so try somewhere new each night and end your day in the best way possible: with a feast.

Where are you most looking forward to going on your next Globalista adventure?

My next trip takes me to Japan and the lovely city of Osaka. I can’t wait to explore all the traditional fashion of Japan, as well as the current modern day quirky style of the younger generations. I see anything from beautiful silk kimonos to Hello Kitty tutus in my future.

To follow Ashley and plan your adventure go to emirates.com/BeThere or follow #BeingThere

Watch the Be There Travel Series on ice Digital Widescreen. Go to Lifestyle TV or choose channel 1290

n e w s

An illegAl trAde The illegal wildlife trade is the fourth-highest illegal trade in the world and has seen an unprecedented spike in recent years.

Raising awareness is vital, so here are some facts you should know. Emirates is supporting United for Wildlife, an organisation working to fight against poaching. Learn more about United for Wildlife on channel 1502 on ice Digital Widescreen

The worth of the illegal wildlife trade per year.

The pangolin is the world's most-trafficked mammal. More than a million were estimated to have been poached in 10 years.

Lax customs and law enforcement are allowing criminal syndicates to smuggle illegal wildlife across borders by land, sea and air.

The number of rangers estimated to have been killed in 10 years while protecting wildlife.

41

3,200 The number of tigers left in the wild. Illegal trade in their parts and products is one of the biggest threats to their safety.

2000 to 2014 During this period, the parts of 1,590 tigers were seized in Asia.

communities living near protected areas are often intimidated and exploited by poaching kingpins, whilst the natural resources nearby are depleted.

13 to 1,215 The increase in rhino poaching in South Africa from 2007 to 2014.

3 Per day The number of rhinos poached Africa-wide in 2014. That’s 1,293 in 12 months.

Central Africa The place elephants are worst hit with a poaching rate twice the continental average.

30,000 The approximate number of African elephants killed each year at the hands of poachers.

How you CAn HelP consumers can contribute in a big way, by boycotting products made from the parts of these endangered animals and discouraging others from doing so. You can also get updates by liking United for Wildlife on Facebook.

For more on wildlife and conservation, visit Wildlife TV channels 1240 to 1251 on ice Digital Widescreen.

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INFOGRAHIc: JOHN MARSLAND SOURcE: WWF

The number of governments committed to the London Declaration on illegal wildlife trade in February 2014 – committing them to take "decisive and urgent action" to tackle the global illegal wildlife trade.

I n s I d e

e m I r a t e s

THE PERFECT AD Emirates latest TV commercial featuring Jennifer Aniston has become a viral sensation, attracting worldwide media attention in the process.

Here’s how and why it happened Words: Matt Mostyn

a top 10 advert The Jennifer ad has just been announced as being on the top 10 US YouTube Ad Leaderboard, which showcases the most popular and creative adverts on the channel. Jennifer and Emirates beat a host of big names in the list, including iPhone 6s and Star Wars for Playstation.

It’s often said that it takes three key elements to win an advert ‘viral’ status: a Hollywood star, an international brand, and an intriguing, amusing narrative. But if you delve a little deeper, there’s usually something else required too – an indefinable quality that captures the public imagination, a ‘perfect storm’ of factors that come together to compel viewers to hit that ‘share’ button.

Since its October release, Emirates’ advert featuring former Friends star Jenifer Aniston celebrating the airline’s premium on-board services, has had ‘viral’ status conferred on it. Within its first 24-hours live it had garnered 800,000 YouTube views and was even being dubbed ‘the perfect ad’ by one US marketing professor. Yet its incredible success has been no easy feat.

In a depar ture from the usual type of airline industry ad, the production team chose to take a more humorous approach as they showcased the high calibre of Emirates’ Business and First Class services. And while there’s an undeniable, yet gentle, dig at some of their rather less luxurious international competitors, Aniston was happy to play along too, poking fun at her own glamorous celebrity lifestyle.

Opening with a comically nightmarish dream sequence, Aniston appears in the business class cabin of a generic airliner, dressed only in a bathrobe, before going on a hunt for the shower. Her enquiries are met with hoots of derision by the flight attendants, leaving her to faint in horror when she realises where she is… only to wake and find herself tucked up in a

| 118 |

first class suite on board an Emirates Airbus A380. Recounting her dream to the cabin crew inside the walnut panelled interior of the A380 bar, the ad concludes with Aniston jokingly asking if there’s “someone we could talk to about flying this around a little bit longer.”

While Aniston’s appearance for Emirates is by no means the first high-profile celebrity in an airline adver t, it’s cer tainly one that’s captured the attention of not only the millions people around the world who’ve viewed it online, but also the world’s media. And while some comments from the press have veered wildly, from lavishly singing its praises to, rather less substantiated, claims of ‘elitism’, there’s no denying its ability to capture attention, enter tain and provoke much heated debate amongst everyone who’s seen it so far.

During the development phase, the first challenge was to cut through the huge swathe of advertising messages, videos and content we’re bombarded with on a daily basis. It’s no surprise that in this digital age of Facebook and YouTube sharing, message saturation is at an all-time high – so from the very beginning, the intention was to ensure that the ad shone through.

As with any shoot, it was a wholly collaborative affair and there were numerous improvisations and variations offered to give the director a host of options when it came to the final edit. The shoot itself was split into two par ts, with the first half being shot at LA’s famous Air Hollywood film studios – the world’s largest aviation-themed studio. Occupying an expansive strip of warehouse spaces and containing a variety of plane cockpits and fuselages, each film-set-plane offered completely removable ceilings and walls, as well as interchangeable seating, to enable better interior filming… and so it was here that the opening scenes for the ad’s dream sequence were shot over one long, frenetic day.

For the A380 scenes, Emirates’ newest Airbus A380 was flown (complete with passengers) from Dubai over to LA. Finding a quiet spot in one corner of LAX, Aniston – together with Oscar-nominated director Bryan Buckley and the 100-strong film crew – went to work, filming inside both a First Class cabin and the bar over the course of the two-day shoot.

It was here that the shoot most benefitted from the capable hands of veteran film and commercial director Buckley.

Dubbed the ‘King of the Superbowl’ by The New York Times (after directing more than 50 ads for America’s most famous ad break during his career), Buckley’s finely-honed approach to filming meant that each scene was shot simultaneously on two cameras – both close-up and distance – to provide a wider range of options to the editing crew, and raise the overall quality of the final cut. And while filming inside an actual A380 (instead of a purpose-built studio fuselage) brought a whole new set of logistical challenges, the relative spaciousness of the plane made the process infinitely less complicated than it would’ve been on-board a standard aircraft.

Throughout filming, Aniston brought her own trademark brand of humour to the role by improvising and cracking jokes.

At one point falling to the floor during her ‘fainting spell’ and weakly asking if, “someone could open a window”. It prompted laughter all-round and it’s no surprise that she charmed the entire crew over the course of the shoot.

Boutros Boutros, Emirates’ Divisional Senior Vice President, Corporate Communications, Marketing & Brand has his own view on exactly why Aniston was chosen for the role. “We couldn’t think of anyone better suited than Jennifer – and we wrote the script with her in mind,” said Boutros. “Her professionalism and comedic talent shone on the set, and her effor tless connection with a global audience made her the perfect choice for our campaign.”

Boutros was clearly delighted with the outcome – especially as the ad was conceived to address the company’s increasing focus on America. “The US is an impor tant market for Emirates,” he continued, “and our airline business is growing all the time there, so we need to raise awareness. And as potential new routes keep opening up, we will continue to do that.”

In the meantime, Emirates and Jennifer Aniston continue to enjoy 'viral marketing sensation' status. With TV and cinema spots set for the US, Europe, the UAE, Australia and India, it’s already being heralded as a huge success for a brand that continues to develop its reach and appeal on a global scale.

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D e s t i n a t i o n

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D E S T I N A T I O N

PHUKET This month Emirates begins an increased frequency of 11 flights a week to Phuket, so enjoy our guide to Thailand’s coastal paradise Entertainment, eateries and adventure abound in this legendary holiday hotspot. But Thailand’s first resort destination boasts a history and a future that transcends its party-fuelled profile.

It’s an island ideally set up for the tourist searching the complete package of fun in the sun. But a recent influx of five-star beach hotels offers a new luxury aspect to Phuket and there's plenty to see and do beyond the main strips.

The island is an ideal base for those looking to learn how to scuba dive with its PADI approved diving centres.

The food options are amazing, but expect a little extra kick in your cuisine as dishes in Phuket are often more spicy than in the rest of the country.

Head south to the incredible limestone karst that soar out of the sea, or venture north where the jungle awaits with its spectacular scenery, lush landscapes and indigenous wildlife.

And when the call of the neon lights in the main strips take hold, grab a ticket and head to the stadium to watch a passionfuelled Muay Thai kickboxing match.

EAT

STAY

DO

DA MAURIZIO This fine dining eatery boasts quality dishes with exceptional views. Its modern Italian menu is ideal for a special occasion and the waves splashing against the shoreline a few feet away from the dining area is the perfect location as the sun sets. damaurizio.com

THE SHORE AT KATATHANI Overlooking the glistening sea lapping onto the secluded shore, this property is the epitome of a luxury holiday in Thailand. Each villa has its own private pool and the beach is rarely, if ever, crowded. A world away from the hustle and bustle of nearby Patong. theshore.katathani.com

EXPLORE PHANG NGA BAY A famous James Bond setting, the sheer limestone rock formations in Phang Nga Bay rise dramatically out of the emerald waters.

Try a day cruise boat where secluded beaches and unique perspectives on the famous rocky outcrops can be found.

BLUE ELEPHANT Set in a grand mansion, here the food is stunning and the service superb. The spicy crab soufflé is a must, but there are many other exceptional dishes to choose from. Book a cookery course held at the venue to learn the secrets of the kitchen. blueelephant.com

MAITHAI HOSTEL The location and clean rooms make Maithai Hostel good value and the free Wi-Fi, cable TV and mini refrigerators make it an absolute bargain. A 10-minute walk to the beach and five minutes to the shops, it’s perfect for those travelling on a budget. maithaihostel.com

WATCH THAI KICKBOXING Head to at Patong Boxing Stadium where the national sport of Muay Thai takes place. The energy and noise outside the ring are amazing, and just as entertaining as the fast-paced action inside it. Held on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays, bouts begin at 9pm. boxingstadiumpatong.com

SIAM SUPPER CLUB Incredible steak, jazz and cocktails are three reasons to put Siam Supper Club at the top of your restaurant list in Phuket. The relaxed atmosphere, well-stocked bar and knowledgeable staff are all just incredibly decent bonuses.

Round it all off with a slice of their famous cheesecake. siamsupperclub.com

THE PAVILIONS PHUKET This adult-only resort encapsulates the joy of villa living. Set on one of Phuket’s highest peaks, each of the 41 villas boasts beautiful views of the area. Meanwhile, the quality of the rooms, facilities and service ensure the five-star reviews keep pouring in. thepavilionsresorts.com

EXPLORE THE DEEP Phuket Scuba Club is the place to head to take part in one of the great attractions of Thailand, its wonderful reefs and ocean exploration. Offering beach dives, day trips and ‘live aboard’ boat breaks, Phuket Scuba Club provides all the equipment and expertise you need. phuket-scuba-club.com

EMIRATES STAFF TIPS TAKE TO THE SKIES

“One of the most popular activities is visiting Flying Hanuman in Kathu, where you can fly from tree to tree via ziplines.”

Supanat Nanglae Sales Executive

FOR THE BEST VIEWS

“Go to Nakkerd Hills for a 360-degree sweeping vista of Phuket Town, Kata, Karon Beach, Chalong Bay and more.”

Thanyaporn Lakban Ticket Desk Agent

Emirates also offers a codeshare agreement on 19 Bangkok Airways routes across Southeast Asia, connecting customers to new destinations such as Koh Samui and Chiang Mai in Thailand, Siem Reap in Cambodia, and Yangon and Mandalay in Myanmar.

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C O M F O R T

WELLNESS IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips.

Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

WEAR GLASSES

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT

USE SKIN MOISTURISER Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

KEEP MOVING Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles.

This encourages blood flow.

DURING THE FLIGHT

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

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V i s a s ,

q u i c k

c o n n e c t

Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr programmE. | 124 |

perfumery is available in

&

q u a r a n t i n e

i n f o r m a t i o n

Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow theSe StePS:

1

2

3

4

have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock the counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 126 |

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Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957 Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

U A E

S M A R T

G A T E

BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your E-Gate card or machinereadable passport ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card into the E-Gate slot

OK!

3

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan.

When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. | 128 |

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • E-Gate cards

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M A P

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NEW ROUTES: Sabiha Gokcen Airport in Istanbul: daily service starts December 15 Panama City: daily service starts February 1, 2016

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DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 contact@emiratesadvocates.com | www.emiratesadvocates.com ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446 auh@emiratesadvocates.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH Tel: +971 7 2046719 rak@emiratesadvocates.com

DUBAI INTERNET CITY Tel: +971 4 3900820 dic@emiratesadvocates.com

SHARJAH Tel: +971 6 5728666 shj@emiratesadvocates.com

JEBEL ALI Tel: +971 4 8871679 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com

DIFC Tel: +971 4 4019562 difc@emiratesadvocates.com

WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN

FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99

THE FLEET Our fleet contains 248 aircraft made up of 233 passenger aircraft and 15 cargo aircraft BOEING 777-300ER

Emirates is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft, which joined the fleet in 2005.

Number of Aircraft: 112 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-300

Since 1999, Emirates operates two and three-class versions of the 777-300.

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777-200LR

Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-200ER

In 2005, the Boeing 777-200LR set a new world record for distance travelled non-stop when it landed at Heathrow airport, London, after a journey of 21,601km (11,664 nautical miles) from Hong Kong - the long way round. Emirates received its first 777-200LR in August 2007.

Emirates’ first Boeing 777-200ER joined the fleet in 1997.

Number of Aircraft: 6 Capacity: 274 Range: 14,310km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777F

Number of Aircraft: 13 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet | 136 |

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparablysized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

AIRBUS A380-800

Emirates has operated the A380 since 2008, and is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft.

Number of Aircraft: 72 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

AIRBUS A340-500

This ultra-long range passenger airliner was introduced to the Emirates fleet in 2003. This saw the launch of the First Class Suite which has since been rolled out on the Boeing 777 and Airbus A380.

Number of Aircraft: 1 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

AIRBUS A340-300

Similar in many respects to Emirates A330-200s, the A340-300 is equipped with four engines giving it an enhanced range.

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

AIRBUS A330-200

First added to the fleet in 1999, this aircraft operates predominately on shorter-haul routes.

Number of Aircraft: 16 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

BOEING 747-400ERF

Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers through end December 2015 | 137 |

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

K N O W L E D G E

DESTINATION How a city works. This month: London I KNOW. HOP IN!

A city on the move

Architectural icons

90

Source: www.savoytheatre.org

There are almost 21,000 ‘black cabs’ in London, although they come in 12 different colours.

The total length of the London Underground network is 250 miles, with trains travelling 76.4 million kilometres in 2015 – that’s 90 trips to the moon and back.

The O2 Arena, built to celebrate the Millennium, is the largest structure of its kind in the world – big enough to house the Great Pyramid of Giza or the Statue of Liberty.

Source:TFL

The Houses of Parliament has 1,000 rooms, 100 staircases, 11 cour tyards, eight bars, six restaurants, a rifle shooting range and hair salon. Better yet, it’s illegal to die inside.

Over 47 million litres water of are pumped from the Tube each day, enough to fill a standard swimming pool every quarter of an hour.

Source: TFL

To become a London black-cab driver, you must master 320 basic routes, all of the 25,000 streets within those routes, and about 20,000 landmarks within a six-mile radius of Charing Cross.

Source: O2 Arena

Source: Houses of Parliament tour

The exact centre of London is marked by a plaque in the Church of St Martin’sin-the-Fields overlooking Trafalgar Square.

A particularly bloodthirsty species of mosquito lives in the London Underground. that can’t be found anywhere else.

Buried beneath Cleopatra’s Needle is an 1878 time capsule containing British currency, cigars, a razor, a portrait of Queen Victoria, copies of ten newspapers, a railway guide, a Bible, and 12 portraits of “the prettiest English ladies”.

Source: www.london.gov.uk

Source: TFL

Source: www.london.gov.uk

Source: TFL

Source: TFL

CHRISTMAS FACTS

Source: Mastercard Global index

THERE’S A PLACE CALLED...

WHY ARE YOU IN MY SEAT...

Cars drive on the left in London, except for the road in Savoy Court, where they’re legally required to drive on the right. Decreed in 1902, it was so theatregoers could decamp from their carriages directly into the Savoy Theatre.

More languages are spoken in London than in any other city in the world (270)

Every year since 1947, the people of Oslo have presented the Trafalgar Square Christmas tree to London in gratitude for their assistance during World War II.

Every year between November 20 and January 3, Hyde Park plays host to the UK’s largest outdoor ice rink, which is over 1,600 metres square.

Source:

The Savoy Theatre on the Strand was the first public building in the world to be lit entirely by electricity. More than 100 years on the entire street is being decorated with Christmas lights at 4pm daily from November 10.

Source: www.london.gov.uk

wwwhydeparkwinterwonderland.com

Source: www.savoytheatre.org

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