Open Skies | November 2017

la perle An exclusive look inside Franco Dragone’s Dubai masterpiece

ed sheeran

casablanca

last exit to brooklyn

Exploring the Art Deco architecture and wild surf scene of Morocco’s most vibrant city

Broken bones and social media salvation Why Red Hook is becoming the coolest neighbourhood in the city

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managing ParTner & grOuP ediTOr

ediTOrial direCTOr

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gina JOHnsOn gINa@mOtIvatE.aE

grOuP ediTOr

seniOr ediTOr

seniOr arT direCTOr

seniOr designer

mark evans marKE@mOtIvatE.aE

andrew nagy aNdrEw.Nagy@mOtIvatE.aE

Olga PeTrOff OLga.PEtrOFF@mOtIvatE.aE

rOui franCisCO rOm@mOtIvatE.aE

digiTal animaTOr

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ediTOrial assisTanT

suraJiT duTTa SUrajIt@mOtIvatE.aE

dOnnie miguel dONNIE.mIgUEL@mOtIvatE.aE

salil kumar SaLIL@mOtIvatE.aE

lOndresa flOres LONdrESa@mOtIvatE.aE

COnTribuTOrs IaIN aKErmaN, CharLIE CarvEr, Emma COILEr, Sarah FrEEmaN, marINa Kay, thOmaS mEStEr, adrIaN mOUrBy, SEaN wILLIamS COver: Bahr aL-aLUm KarIm

general manager PrOduCTiOn

PrOduCTiOn manager

CHief COmmerCial OffiCer

grOuP sales manager

sunil kumar SUNIL@mOtIvatE.aE

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anTHOny milne aNthONy@mOtIvatE.aE

miCHael underdOwn mIChaEL@mOtIvatE.aE

assisTanT PrOduCTiOn manager

seniOr sales manager

binu Purandaran BINU@mOtIvatE.aE

miCHelle Quinn mIChELLE.QUINN@mOtIvatE.aE

EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES

ediTOr

arabiC ediTOr

dePuTy ediTOr

manna Talib

HaTem Omar

CaTHerine freeman

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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133,095 copies media One tower, dubai media City PO Box 2331, dubai, UaE telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: emirates@motivate.ae 6 / OPEN SKIES

january – june 2017

Printed by Emirates Printing Press, dubai, UaE

EDITOR’S NOTE ON THE COVER

LA PERLE “One of the most difficult shoots of my career” was how photographer Bahr Al-Alum Karim described shooting La Perle, live, for Open Skies. We hope you agree that the results were well worth the struggle.

Franco Dragone has an epic name. It sounds like he should be in The Wire or The Lord Of The Rings.

It’s fitting, too, because he’s not really cut out for normal. One of the world’s most sought after artistic directors, if you asked him to organise a tea party it would probably involve at least one attempt at the Wall Of Death.

So it seems apt that the man behind some of the most spectacular shows on earth is the one to create La Perle , the first permanent theatrical experience in Dubai, destined to become as much a part of the city as afternoon tea at Burj Al Arab or a trip to see The Dubai Fountain.

As Dragone explains on page 44, La Perle is unlike anything you’ve ever seen before (which is really saying something consider his jawdropping back catalogue of shows). It’s still growing, too. Not so much a story of Dubai as a story from Dubai, it will evolve with time and develop as the city does.

We can’t wait to see where he takes it next.

ANDREW NAGY, SENIOR EDITOR

SOCIAL MEDIA facebook.com/ openskiesmag

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Now available oN your ipad OPEN SKIES / 7

contents

INTRO

12

20

22

28

30

34

EXpERIENcE

TASTE

STAY

TRAVEL ESSENTIAL

dISpATchES

NEIGhBOURhOOd

feaTuRes

54

44

ThE cASABLANcA EffEcT

INSIdE ThE mINd Of fRANcO dRAGONE

bRIefINg

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70

72

74

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NEWS

INSIdE EmIRATES

dESTINATION

VISA, cOmfORT, ANd SmART GATE

ROUTE mAp

ThE fLEET

cELEBRITY dIREcTIONS

OPEN SKIES / 9

Intro

neighbourhood

INTRO

EXPERIENCE • LOCAL KNOWLEDGE • tAstE • styLE • NEIGhbOuRhOOD

playground tactics

An exhibition following one man’s personal journey around the world as a supremely dedicated BE@RBRICK collector is just part of this month’s Dubai Design Week.

turn over to plan your month of adventure

OPEN SKIES / 11

THE PLAN Events to aim for this month NOV. 10

RUGBY SEVENS In praise of the Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens, by South Africa captain, Kyle Brown WORDS: Andrew Nagy

What’s the single biggest reason people should go to the sevens?

Quite simply for the superhuman athletic ability that’s on show.

Is this a great way of seeing potential superstars of the future?

Absolutely. So many teams use the sevens series as part of a player’s development progression. They then get to choose whether to stay in sevens or move across to fifteens.

What are the mental and physical qualities that a great rugby sevens player requires?

I would say, mentally, it’s perseverance, fortitude, composure and a being a little sneaky.

Physically it’s all about endurance, agility, and having a broad skill set.

So how does sevens differ from playing fifteens?

In fifteens, the collision point becomes more pivotal, so size and power play a bigger role. Individually, players can have a narrower skill set, too, because they would be more specialised in their position.

How important is Dubai on the sevens circuit?

Dubai starts the season, and 12 / OPEN SKIES

every team wants to get off to a solid start. The emphasis will be on finding the team’s rhythm as quickly as possible.

What does it take to win the series?

Consistency. A team needs to make a couple back-to-back finals throughout the season.

Who would be in your all-time sevens dream team?

That’s not an easy one, Tell you what, let’s say: Cecil Afrika, Seabelo Senatla, Jerry Tuwai, Tom Mitchell, Phil Burgess, Kwagga Smith and Perry Baker. I’ll let them figure out their own positions.

experience

Catch up on the action from the past year’s event with Dubai Rugby Seven’s Wrap on channel 1206 on ice Digital Widescreen.

FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION...

NOV. 7-12

NYC COMEDY FESTIvAl

A week-long comedy blast with the highlight being the Stand Up For Heroes benefit gig at Madison Square Garden on day one, starring Jon Stewart, conan O’Brien, Trevor noah and John Oliver.

NEW YORK CITY | NYCOMEDYFESTIVAL.COM

NOV. 10

PARTY IN THE PARK

This year’s party in The park has Liam Gallagher headlining with a mix of new material and Oasis classics, a DJ set by The chemical Brothers, and a spot by British neo-psychedelic rockers, Temples.

DUBAI MEDIA CITY | WHATSON.AE

NOV. 13-18

DUBAI DESIGN WEEK

now in its third year, Dubai Design Week includes pop-up events, live shows, talks, workshops, and the Global Grad Show starring 200 of the best new ideas from 90 universities in 40 countries.

DUBAI | DUBAIDESIGNWEEK.AE

A big part of Dubai Sevens – for the crowd at least – is fancy dress.

What would you come as?

It’s been ages since I’ve done fancy dress, but if I did I think I’d be turning up as a Ninja Turtle.

SEVENS STADIUM, DUBAI | DUBAIRUGBY7S.COM

NOV. 24-26

ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX Lewis Hamilton will have most likely retained his F1 title by this point, but at least the post-race gigs from pink, calvin Harris, Mumford & Sons and Kendrick Lamar will be worth the visit.

YAS ISLAND | ABUDHABI-GRAND-PRIX.COM

OPEN SKIES / 13

experience

NOV. 23

ed SHeeRAN

ed Sheeran may well have broken his wrist ahead of this month’s Dubai gig, but we’re keeping our fingers crossed he can make the show which sold out in just 50 minutes WORDS: Emma Coiler

Success is strange It’s very hard to process the big moments. My ambition was always to fill Shepherd’s Bush Empire – filling Wembley Stadium wasn’t even on my radar. It’s surreal just thinking about everything that has happened.

I went away for a year I didn’t want people to think, ‘Oh, is he releasing another song again?’ If you have a break people are excited to hear your new work. I spent some time driving a Mini along the Australian coast – it was great. You come back feeling recharged.

People should send more letters I’m old-school – I love sitting and reading through physical fan mail.

There’s just something cool about a person who has taken the time to send a hand-written letter to you.

Saying that I got a letter from a fan in Korea once, which said: ‘Ed you are a little ugly – but I love you.’ I guess that’s still a compliment though, right?

I enjoyed getting rid of my phone for a year Social media is important and powerful in so many ways – especially for fan interaction – but if you’re not careful you can find yourself living your life staring at a screen.

Travel is an essential part of my life There’s a lot of hotel living, a lot of ordering room service for dinner – always get the burger, consistently the best thing on the menu.

I couldn’t build a supergroup I have a lot of influences and people I respect, but to make a group work 14 / OPEN SKIES

you need that chemistry. It’s hard to explain, but you just have to look at videos of The Beatles performing together to think, ah yeah, that’s it.

I’ve no idea where this came from The strangest rumour I heard about myself was that I was quitting music.

All of a sudden it was everywhere… and there wasn’t an ounce of truth to it.

I hope I can play in Dubai this month I’ve got friends there so – presuming my wrist is OK – I’ll be catching up with them. It was humbling to hear how quickly the gig sold out in Dubai, so I really want to make it.

AUTISM ROCKS ARENA, DUBAI | 117LIVE.COM

Ed Sheeran ÷ (Divide) is on channel 3124 on ice Digital Widsescreen.

TRuST yOuR INSTINcTS

How to pick a Dubai gig in November

feelING NOSTalGIc?

NO

STay hOme

yeS

aRe yOu cuRReNTly maD fOR IT?

NO

aRe yOu aN INDIe kID?

aRe yOu feelING faBulOuS?

NO

yeS

yeS

yaaaaaS

OceaN cOlOuR SceNe

lIam GallaGheR

JeNNIfeR lOPez

November 9

November 10

November 17

Connect with nature and reconnect with yourself in Ras Al Khaimah

Escape to Ras Al Khaimah and create lifetime memories with a stay in a luxury pool villa, bespoke spa and dining experiences, thrilling desert adventure, and endless views over the rolling sand dunes. Call +971 7206 7777 or visit ritzcarlton.com/alwadidesert Š2017 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C.

experience

16 / OPEN SKIES

UAE

The crossroads of civilisaTions

This month’s opening of Louvre Abu Dhabi signals the culmination of a decade’s hard work, and the beginning of a cultural district in the desert WORDS: Adrian Mourby

IMAGES: Mohamed Somji

54.3773° E

24.4539° N

ABU DHABI

A lot has happened since the groundbreaking announcement of Louvre Abu Dhabi. I mean, a lot does happen in 10 years; so more than anything it was perhaps a collective sigh of relief that greeted news of its November 11 opening.

That exhale of breath swiftly gave way to anticipation, of course, and while the opening draws a line in the sand following years of hard work and endeavour, it also signals a new, perhaps even bigger challenge ahead: the search for greatness.

The very earliest museums were private collections held by European monarchs and aristocrats. These wealthy rulers would not only commission the great painters and sculptors of the day, but display objects that they had purchased on their travels – or artworks supplied by agents who scoured the world on their behalf.

Musée du Louvre itself began as a private royal collection that was thrown open to the public following the French Revolution. Other great institutes – like the British Museum in London – were created when antiquarians, bibliophiles, aristocrats and explorers pooled their private collections to create a museum that was specifically for the public.

To make an impact in today’s market, a famous name helps, of course; and the unprecedented intergovernmental agreement between Paris and Abu Dhabi includes the loan of the Musée du Louvre’s moniker for 30 years and six months, temporary exhibitions for 15 years, and loans of artworks for 10.

ABU DHABI

FOR LOUVRE LOVERS

The inaugural special exhibition, From One Louvre To Another: Opening A Museum For Everyone, opens on December 21, and traces the history of Musée du Louvre in Paris.

Go from one Louvre to another – literally. Emirates offers three non-stop daily A380 services from Dubai to Paris.

“With a unique global narrative and a vision to explore the history of art in a fresh context, Louvre Abu Dhabi is a place where visitors can come to understand their own and others’ cultures,” said museum director Manuel Rabaté.

“Its ground-breaking architecture complements a presentation of exceptional treasures that represent a snapshot of humanity’s creativity, and paves the way for new discussions.”

As Rabaté indicates, Louvre Abu Dhabi isn’t simply about the treasures that lie within – the vast, domed building is a work of art in itself.

Pritzker Prize-winning French architect Jean Nouvel was inspired by Arabia’s low-lying settlements and medinas. He adventurously designed a space described as a museum city floating in the sea.

OPEN SKIES / 17

experience

The exhibiTs There are 600 artefacts on display at Louvre Abu Dhabi.

Here are four we love

1

Lion bracelet

Ziwiye, Iranian Azerbaijan, Iran, 8th7th century BCE; Gold; 6.7 x 9.5 x 8.0 cm; Louvre Abu Dhabi, Abu Dhabi; LAD 2009.019, © Louvre Abu Dhabi / Thierry Ollivier

2

Bronze Oba head

Not simply a stand-alone institution, Louvre Abu Dhabi will eventually be joined by Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, designed by Frank Gehry; Zayed National Museum, a Sir Norman Foster creation; the Zaha Hadid-designed Performing Arts centre, and the Maritime Museum, all forming a staggering cultural district on Saadiyat Island Ultimately, Louvre Abu Dhabi will be judged on its exhibits, and it lays down a marker there, too. The permanent collection includes prized 18 / OPEN SKIES

artefacts such as a 3,000-year-old gold bracelet with lion figurines from Iran, a gold brooch with garnets that was fashioned in fifth century AD Italy, the Rene Magritte painting The Subjugated Reader, a 1928 collage by Picasso titled Portrait Of A Lady and the most ancient known photographic representation of a veiled woman. It will also host parts of the permanent collection of Musée du Louvre, as well as items on loan from 13 French art institutions including Leonardo da Vinci’s La Belle Ferronnière and a Spanish spout of a lion said to be from Monzon from Musée du Louvre, as well as Claude Monet’s La gare Saint-Lazare and Edouard Manet’s The Fife Player, both from the Musée d’Orsay.

As its collection grows, the museum will undoubtedly become a showcase for world culture in the UAE, a region that the museum describes as “standing at the crossroads of civilisations”.

Kingdom of Benin (current Nigeria), 1st half of 19th century; Bronze; 51.0 x 34.0 x 31.0 cm; Louvre Abu Dhabi, Abu Dhabi; LAD 2015.036; © Louvre Abu Dhabi / Thierry Ollivier

4

Self-portrait

Vincent Van Gogh (1853-1890); France, 1887; Oil on canvas; 44 x 35.5 cm Musée d’Orsay; © Musée d’Orsay, dist.

RMN-Grand Palais / Patrice Schmidt

3

La Belle Ferronnière

Leonardo da Vinci; Milan, Italy, 1495-1499; Wood (noyer); Musée du Louvre, Paintings Departement; © Musée du Louvre, C2RMF / T. Clot

TASTE

DUBAI OPERA DISTRICT

THE SEAN CONNOLLY SITUATION How stylish location countered with simple food wins out

BANGKOK

HIGH SPIRITS

Because life tastes better from 800 feet Recently launched and perched on the 64th floor of Tower Club at lebua, Alfresco 64 – A Chivas Bar serves up stunning aerial views of the city skyline and the Chao Phraya River, alongside numerous whisky degustation offerings. Be sure to try a snifter of the exclusive Chivas lebua blend (below) before their small reserves run dry.

LEBUA.COM

THE CHIVAS REGAL EXCLUSIVE lEBUA BLEND

PRICE: US$7,000 per bottle AVAILABILITY: Only 96 numbered bottles were made – and you can only buy it here, at Alfresco 64

20 / OPEN SKIES

Timing is everything. If you’re booking on a performance night, time your arrival for after the show begins or else risk getting caught in the pre-theatre melee at the bar.

You have to order the oysters. Connolly is famous for them and they’re very particular about which ones make the cut – but the quality will still surprise you. Also look out for Let’s Shuck on Wednesdays – it’s Connolly’s Dhs10 oyster night.

Don’t expect a performance. Despite the slick decor and lofty location at Dubai Opera, here the emphasis is on stripping everything back to create a menu of good, honest, well-cooked food.

Keep your phone handy. You’ll need it for a snap of Burj Khalifa from the terrace and to Shazam a soundtrack (below), filled with classics direct from Connolly’s childhood.

SEANCONNOLLYDUBAI.COM

MUSIC AND FOOD – AN EQUATION

+

CHAKA KHAN I FEEL FOR YOU

×

MICHAEL JACKSON PYT

=

BANANARAMA CRUEL SUMMER

THE SOUNDTRACK AT SEAN CONNOLLY

CITY WALK DUBAI

GALVIN DUBAI Making its move for the diners of City Walk

When a restaurant opens two places just 400 metres apart, it’s a strong signal of intent. Galvin Dubai is the slightly more grown-up sibling to Demoiselle by Galvin.

A great location looks out on to City Walk, while the interior combines plush green velvet seating with dark wood walls and Art Deco fixtures and fittings.

The bar upstairs is worthy of a visit, with notable successes on the cocktail menu including a Negroni that has been rested in a clay pot for 30 days.

When you’re ready to eat, there are many winners – from the plump Cumbrae oysters to the signature tagine of lamb – but we’re not going to tell you what to order... Galvin Dubai is for grown-ups.

GALVINDUBAI.COM

UNVEILING SOON

TUNED FOR DISCOVERY. You always said you were born to roam and you’re always talking about the next big thing.

It’s waiting for you to discover at Renaissance Downtown Hotel, Dubai.

Indulge in chic surroundings, flawless service and endless inspiration.

This is your next big story to share.

For more information visit renaissancedowntowndubai.com or email rendxb.sales@renhotels.com

RENAISSANCE DOWNTOWN HOTEL, DUBAI Marasi Drive Business Bay Dubai PO Box 191984 United Arab Emirates t: +971.4.512.5555

stay

uNItED kINGDOM

THE FOOD LOVERS’ CITY ESCAPE

Henrietta Hotel is a boutique bolthole in London’s Covent Garden with a world-class restaurant WORDS: charlie carver

IMAGES: henrietta hotel

0.1278° W

LONDON

51.5074° N

Henrietta Hotel in Covent Garden is close to both the theatres of the West End and the boutiques, restaurants and nightlife of Soho, but once you step through the innocuous black front door of this 18-room boutique hotel on Henrietta Street, which dates back to the 17th century, the frenetic pace of London is left behind.

The first hotel from Experimental Group, best known for its bars and restaurants in London, Paris and Ibiza, offers bold but elegant interior design from Dorothée Meilichzon. The founder of design studio Chzon, she respects the storied history of the two townhouses that make up the property – one of which is the former office of George Orwell’s publisher Victor Gollancz Ltd.

The rooms enjoy comfort aligned with a strong combination of colours and patterns – for example, a super king size bed, in the Henrietta room, with a striking headboard integrating a circular mirror and patterned fabric panels. Mosaic patterned carpets with mismatched plush velvet chairs, sofas and brass lamps; and a bathroom with pink walls and a black and white tiled floor. It exudes warmth and a genuinely stylish homeliness.

But the highlight of the Henrietta Hotel is its cocktail bar and restaurant. The seasonal restaurant menu is designed by Ollie Dabbous, the man once described by The Guardian as “the most wanted chef in Britain”. Getting Dabbous on board was a real coup for the hotel’s owners, and his food does not disappoint. hENrIEttahOtEl.cOm

HENRIETTA X THE MARTINI

the cocktail menu is designed by drink historians Jared Brown and anistatia miller. here’s the recipe for the citadel – their take on a martini 30ml 30ml 1 drop 1 dash

Sipsmith london Dry Gin cocchi Vermouth di torino Pernod absinthe orange bitters

METHod

combine ingredients with ice. Pour into a Nick & Nora glass and garnish with a luxardo cherry.

22 / OPEN SKIES

stay

LONDON

WHILE YOU’RE IN LONDON

From Henrietta, head along Brompton Road to book store Peter Harrington London for some fantastic first editions and signed copies.

Emirates operates nine daily flights to London. Choose from six daily services to London Heathrow and three daily services to London Gatwick.

OPEN SKIES / 23

stay

rep. Of IreLaND

staying central

the Westbury is a location-perfect place to rest your head in during any visit to Dublin WOrDs: Sarah Freeman

IMaGes: the Westbury

DUBLIN

Emirates flies twice daily to dublin with the Boeing 777-300ER.

6.2603° W

DUBLIN

53.3498° N

With cultural and historic treasures such as the National Gallery, Trinity College and St Stephen’s Green on the doorstep, locations don’t come much better than The Westbury.

This family-owned Dublin institution impresses from the off. Its mezzaninelevel, marble-clad lobby twinkles with Waterford crystal chandeliers and several millions pounds worth of Irish art – setting

the scene for a lavish afternoon tea served by your personal tea sommelier in the light-flooded gallery.

From the comfort of an ornate George Smith-designed armchair, guests can take in elevated views of Grafton Street – the city’s premier shopping artery – whilst sipping on one of the 30-something blends. The comfortable interiors extend with a flourish into the 205 rooms and suites – kitted out with Sealy beds, duck-

down duvets and native textiles such as Lissadell bed linen and Irish wool carpets.

Come evening time, stay indoors and forgo the tourist-heavy Temple Bar (just 10 minutes on foot) for martinis made on an Art Deco trolley at the hotel’s 1930s-inspired cocktail bar, Sidecar. After that, wrap things up with dinner at retrostyled Wilde Restaurant – named after Ireland’s greatest wit. dOylEcOllEctION.cOm

the earLy start

Often found in soulless all-day restaurants, a hotel breakfast can be a terribly sterile affair, with a lack of atmosphere only matched by the lacklustre menu; but not so at the Westbury. Styled like a Parisian brasserie, Balfes’ open kitchen serves up a classic, yet healthy, breakfast, some reassuringly hearty dinner options and a decent cocktail menu for all other occasions. In our opinion, worth getting up, and staying late, for.

WhILe yOU’re IN DUBLIN

Although the Westbury places you right at the heart of touristy Grafton Street, take the 10-minute walk to Stoneybatter for coffee shops, craft ales and an area on the rise.

24 / OPEN SKIES

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stay

LEBANON

Beirut’s golden icon

Once an architectural tribute to a golden age, Phoenicia Beirut remains an essential part of the city’s fabric WORDS: Iain Akerman

IMAGES: Phoenicia Beirut

35.5018° E

BEIRUT

33.8938° N

The first thing you notice as you enter the Phoenicia is the staircase. Wide and elegant, it is a grand statement of intent.

Of all Beirut’s hotels, it is the Phoenicia that looms largest in the imagination.

It epitomises the Beirut of the 1960s and early ’70s – that poignantly short period of time when Minet-el-Hosn and downtown Beirut thrived as a cloistered multinational society. It was opulent, brash and seductive. A playground for the international jet set and the Lebanese wealthy enough to afford it.

The singer Fairuz performed there in 1962, and the Egyptian dancer Nadia Gamal in December the same year. Brigitte Bardot and Claudia Cardinale were guests, as were Omar Sharif and a legion of Hollywood stars.

The journalist Samir Kassir once wrote that the hotel was an “iconic symbol of Lebanese wealth”, with the Phoenicia at long last giving Beirut its own internationally recognisable building. It was all delicately perforated façades and shimmering blue and turquoise tiles, with the whiteness of the hotel contrasting with the deep blue of the Mediterranean Sea. The American architect Edward Durell Stone had designed it with Joseph Salerno, combining 26 / OPEN SKIES

elements of high modernism with Mughal and Muslim architecture. Even Neal Prince, the man chiefly responsible for the hotel’s interior, applied a philosophy of design tied to location, utilising arabesques and Arabic script for wall coverings, and lattice screens that cast intricate shadows.

The end result was – and is – a Beirut landmark.

Originally opened in 1961, then abandoned and partially destroyed during the civil war, it is an architectural gem and a rare renovation success story in a country unused to preserving its past.

On balconies overlooking Rue de Phénicie you are able to get a sense of the Phoenicia’s current place in space and time. To the left is Zaitunay Bay

stay

For the record

Up a cast iron spiral staircase and past racks of vinyl, you’ll find Diran Mardirian and Chico Records. this Beirut institution sells jazz, blues, rock, indie, pop, classical and folk, but arabic music is naturally the specialty of the house. there’s also a listening booth, a record cleaning machine and all the accessories required for those who love vinyl.

and the edge of the Mediterranean; to the right, the staggered floors and layered balconies of Herzog & de Meuron’s Beirut Terraces. Beyond is the rejuvenated downtown, with its sandblasted stone and sanitised version of Beirut. Much of the rest of the city clings to the sides of mountains that roll down towards the sea.

From the Mosaic and Amethyste restaurants you can see the old St Georges Hotel, designed in the 1930s by Parisian architect Auguste Perret and now little more than a shell. There’s a giant ‘Stop Solidere’ sign attached to its façade and a functioning pool at its base, around which weddings occasionally unfold.

“Wadih El Safi sang here in 2001,” says Nazmi Al-Rashed, indicating the pool beside Amethyste.

He has been preparing sheesha and coffee – “not Turkish coffee, but Arabic coffee with cardamom” – at the Phoenicia since it reopened 17 years ago.

“Najwa Karam, Walid Toufic, Ragheb Alama and Melhem Zein, they’ve all sung here,” he adds.

“They would close off the entire area and host evenings by the pool.”

The Phoenicia’s pool (left) has always been a focal point, although its current incarnation, set against a backdrop of cascading waterfalls, is more politically correct than its oval-shaped 1960s predecessor. Back then a subterranean bar called Sous la Mer offered underwater views of all who swam in it.

The bar and pool even feature in movies of the time. There’s footage of a fashion shoot, too, captured on 8mm film from the roof of the pool’s colonnade in 1963, and photographs of Georgina Rizk, the Lebanese model and beauty queen, taken in 1971.

While the Phoenicia is effectively all that remains of that “Lebanese narrative of a golden age synonymous with the pleasures of life”, as Kassir wrote in Beirut, it’s also living in the present. And while the St Georges is little more than a ghostly relic, the Excelsior – once home to the famous Les Caves Du Roy nightclub – is overgrown and abandoned, and the Holiday Inn just a bombed out concrete carcass, the Phoenicia is enjoying a second moment in the sun.

PHOENICIABEIRUT.COM

BEIRUT

BEIRUT: A SUGGESTION Forget about making an itinerary and simply follow our helpful chart below SEE Alfred Tarazi’s exhibition Dear Madness at Galerie Janine Rubeiz in Raouche until November 24

PARTY At Metro Al Madina in Hamra

EAT Modern Lebanese at Liza in Achrafieh EXPLORE With a walk along the corniche

Emirates operates three daily services to Beirut with the Boeing 777-300ER.

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ESSENTIALS

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

TIME TRAVEL Four watchmaking cities for your itinerary

As any seasoned traveller will attest, a suitable timepiece is required for all destinations

TIME CHECK Check the time in any country by simply adjusting the crown to your desired location.

SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL The case back reveals an aluminium disc and oscillating weight that turns around a large graphic LV. 1

Geneva

Not only home to the annual SIHH watch fair, but also the venue for Christie’s Only Watch charity auction on November 11.

2

Basel

This discerning city on the banks of the Rhine is home to Baselworld, the first Swiss watch fair that began in 1917.

DESTINATION DUBAI? One of 72 watches pre-selected for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, if it wins it will feature at Dubai Watch Week 3

THE WATCH Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Blue

For design and home interior programmes on today’s flight, check out Lifestyle TV on ice for The World’s Most Extraordinary Homes and shows from HGTV.

THE WATCH IN THE ZONE What at first appears a minor detail is what makes Dubai Watch Week the outstanding event of its type. A non-commercial gathering (the largest of its kind in the world), it’s the lack of hard sell that means interaction with collectors, watchmakers and brands is not only possible, but satisfyingly so.

A full programme helps, too, and the event created by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons to help preserve horological culture and heritage fires on all fronts. Whether you’re attending a watchmaking masterclass, learning how to evaluate a watch – and bid at auction – with Christie’s, or are simply there to get up close with the winners of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the third edition of Dubai Watch Week – the last until 2020 – is perfectly timed.

NOVEMBER 16 TO 20 | DUBAIWATCHWEEK.COM

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Schaffhausen

A historic Swiss town, it’s also the home of IWC – the only major Swiss watchmaker found in northern Switzerland.

4

London

Swiss-made might now be the mark, but England once held the crown. London’s Burlington Arcade is a great place to shop for luxury watches.

dispatches

DESTINATION GUIDE PALERMO

PALERMO

MUST-SEE: TEATRO MASSIMO POPULATION: 678,492

CURRENCY: EURO (€) VISIT: LATE SPRING OR EARLY AUTUMN

Emirates serves four destinations in Italy: Rome, Milan, Venice and Bologna.

ITALY

BALLARO BLITZ

the Ballaro street Market is the oldest and largest in palermo, sicily’s beautiful, multicultural capital. a riot of colour and chaos, it remains a vital part of the city’s historic identity WORDS: Sean Williams

IMAGES: Stefano Montesi

13.3613° E

PALERMO

38.1157° N

It’s barely 7am and Ballaro is already in full swing. Hundreds of street sellers have set up shop along the district’s winding, cobbled streets. Shouts of bello pre! (good price!) and amuni! (let’s go!) ring out around the area’s ancient buildings. Everything is for sale.

The American journalist Robert V Camuto wrote that Ballaro comprises “greengrocers, butchers, bakers, fishmongers, public forums, daily operas, and cashiers of the underground (tax-free) economy played out on the streets.”

Locals know it as the heart of Palermo. It’s where Phoenicians founded the city in the eighth century BC, and it’s one of five districts built largely by invading Normans, who arrived around 1,100 years ago. Its tightly-wound streets and variegated architecture stand testament to a tangled history that includes conquest by Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Arabs.

Even its name, first mentioned by a Baghdadi trader in the 10th century, is a nod to the lost ancient Arab town of Belhara, thought to be in

modern-day north Africa, from where so many of the multicultural neighbourhood’s residents came. Many of its street signs are written in Italian, Arabic and Hebrew: Ballaro, and its surrounding Albergheria district, were also home to Palermo’s Jewish population until its expulsion by the Spanish Inquisition in 1492.

A small district winding from the Church of Casa Professa up Corso Tukory – its main thoroughfare – it runs alongside the Via Maqueda, Palermo’s premier walking street, and rubs shoulders with the Palazzo Normanni, Monumento al Cadere and Cappella Palatina, three of the city’s major tourist attractions. It is also within easy walking distance of Palermo’s other big attractions, such as the Teatro Massimo, which is the third-largest opera house in Europe, and the sun-soaked Foro Italico, the promenade on which people play football, cricket and other imported sports each day.

But in truth, Ballaro is something all of its own, an anomaly in the heart of the city. It is said that Giuseppe Balsamo, an alchemist who went by the

How to be an Italian market expert

two tips will see you through your experience unscathed. Firstly, don’t handle the merchandise. tell the vendor what you want and they’ll bag it. everything is good, but if you’re a regular, you’ll get the best. Secondly, don’t haggle, it can be seen as an insult. simply join the longest queue – a sign of the best produce – and wait.

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nom de plume Count Alessandro di Cagliostro, was born in Ballaro. There is certainly no shortage of spirits – though today they tend of be of a different kind. By day Ballaro is a crush of sights, sounds and smells, as the market runs all day at a breakneck speed. At night, when the stalls close and shutters come down on its many cafes, it becomes a frantically fun place to go out.

Restaurants like Moltivolti and Al Fondeco del Conte serve up a wide variety of international dishes, such is the local fare – from Afghan curry and Senegalese mafé, to Moroccan couscous and freshly-caught fish. There is pasta and pizza, too.

But Ballaro is a web of culture and history. Italy, the local saying goes, it is not. The district also

boasts an impressive array of, largely political, street art with multicoloured murals splashed across derelict facades and scaffold walls.

The only must-try local dish, perhaps, is pannelle, a traditional chickpea fritter that usually comes as a starter. Keep plenty of room: they’re greasy enough to turn the tablecloth see-through.

But, like most things in Palermo and Ballaro, they’re indulgently brilliant.

Above all, though, Ballaro is a place to stroll and take in the sights and sounds of the marketplace.

It is a marvel of human history and cultural crosspollination, unlike anything else in Europe. But then Ballaro, and Palermo, aren’t really European at all. They’re something else entirely.

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EXPO 2020

UAE

Expo in action

How Expo 2020 is already supporting innovation around the world WORDS: Iain Akerman

IMAGES: Expo 2020

So far, 45 projects from 30 countries have been supported by Expo Live’s Innovation Grant

55.2708° E

DUBAI

25.2048° N

An app that helps parents in Nigeria monitor the wellbeing of their children from home, and kites that generate electricity via high altitude wind are just two projects to receive funding from organisers of Expo 2020 Dubai.

Both are being supported by ‘innovation impact’ grants from Expo Live, a partnership programme launched by Expo 2020 to fund, accelerate and promote creative solutions that improve lives and help preserve the planet.

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These two innovative solutions are far from alone. So far, 45 projects from 30 countries have been supported by Expo Live’s Innovation Grant Programme which has an allocation of US$100 million for the run-up to Expo 2020.

Projects can receive funding up to US$100,000, paid in increments depending on progress. Successful projects will also have the opportunity to showcase their innovative solutions at Expo 2020 Dubai.

“These grants bring much needed support to entrepreneurs and change-makers from all over the world, ensuring that those who are committed to improving how we live, or the environment, have the means and a global platform to promote their work,” says Yousuf

Caires, Vice President, Expo Live, Expo 2020 Dubai.

Expo Live’s aim is to support projects from around the world whose solutions generate social and environmental value, and are in line with Expo 2020 Dubai’s subthemes of opportunity, mobility and sustainability.

“The programme fulfills the promise made during the bid phase of Expo 2020 Dubai to support businesses and innovators of all shapes and sizes, [and] to serve as an incubator for new models and new ideas,” says Caires.

The third cycle of the Innovation Impact Grant Programme was announced on October 2 and will be open until December 2.

ExPO2020dubAI.AE

NEIGHBOURHOOD

VENUE INDICATOR

USA

SHOPPING

DRINK

CULTURE

FOOD

SPORT

HOTEL

A VISUAL EXPLANATION

The NYC hipster scale

Bushy beards

RED HOOK, BROOKLYN

I love NYC T-shirts

Williamsburg

Times Square

USA

RED HOOK, BROOKLYN WORDS: Marina Kay

PHOTOGRAPHY: Thomas Mester

40.6773°N

74.0094°W

RED HOOK

Far-reaching Red Hook has avoided the phoenix-like rise of its Brooklyn counterparts – namely, Williamsburg and Dumbo – perhaps only for the lack of a subway service. Industrial zoning has kept out high-rise apartments and hotels too, leaving the one-square-mile peninsula largely unscathed, raw and remote.

A onetime shipping hub – the vestige of a bygone era – Red Hook famously appeared in Hubert Selby’s novel Last Exit to Brooklyn, and most recently made a cameo in HBO’s four-part documentary The Defiant Ones starring rapper Dr Dre and record producer Jimmy Iovine, whose Italian father worked on the Brooklyn waterfront as a longshoreman. He wanted the same career for his son, but Jimmy had other things on his mind and worked his way up in the music business after working on a recording session for John Lennon.

A small business community of artists and entrepreneurs caters to the neighbourhood’s 10,000-plus residents, a population that swells with day-trippers and out-of-towners on weekends. The main thoroughfare, Van Brunt Street, is lined with shops, restaurants and boutiques set in original storefronts. An indie spirit thrives.

Adjacent blocks stack red-brick townhomes, renovated lofts and NYC Housing Authority Red Hook Houses. Old warehouses now function as wineries, distilleries and chocolate factories, while the community Pier 44 Waterfront Garden offers a paved boardwalk, boat launch and gardens with Atlantic views. One end of the park is abutted by Fairway, an upscale supermarket situated on the ground level of a former coffee storehouse whose upper levels now house luxury lofts, home to A-listers including Michelle Williams and Michael Shannon. The building faces the grand dame herself, Statue of Liberty, also seen from Louis Valentino, Jr Pier – a magnet at sunset.

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neighbourhood

START

1.

Baked Café

First things first: breakfast. One of two New York locations – the other is in Tribeca – this Baked shop churns out at least 15 types of desserts and 10 kinds of breakfast pastries daily.

“The classics are still the bestsellers,” says owner Matt Lewis. He’s referring to the chocolate chunk cookies, sweet and salty caramel chocolate cake and gluten-free chocolate cloud cookies.

Having the store function as a focal point for neighbourhood meet-ups was always the intention, too. “We know our neighbours – residents and other business owners – on a more intimate level than we would in other parts of NYC. It is a community in every sense of the word.”

359 VaN BruNt StrEEt | BrOOKlyN, Ny 11231 | BaKEdNyc.cOm

ONEmINutE WALK

2.

foxy & Winston If you’re staying at 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge in nearby Dumbo, travel to Red Hook in their in-house Tesla 36 / OPEN SKIES

British artist Jane Buck opened Foxy & Winston – “a bright and cheery gift shop with a little bit of something for everyone” – in 2009. For regular clients, it’s the go-to gift shop for hostess, housewarming, birthday or baby gifts. Tourists seek nautical keepsakes like whale bottle openers or mermaid bookends. “I buy goods from makers all over the world,” says Jane, “and the Foxy & Winston signature paper goods and textiles I design myself.” Those include her tugboat baby swaddle blanket, a cute green artichoke apron, and hedgehog kitchen towels made of certified organic cotton.

392 VaN BruNt StrEEt | BrOOKlyN, Ny 11231| fOxyaNdwINStON.cOm

neighbourhood

3.

Fort deFiance

Chances are you’ll have earned a drink by this point, and this is great spot for all-day cocktails. Fort Defiance serves a mean Irish coffee, too, along with “divine oysters and fish”, according to Foxy & Winston’s Jane Buck.

ONE-

365 VaN BruNt St, BrOOKlyN, Ny 11231 | fOrtdEfIaNcEBrOOKlyN.cOm

mINutE WALK

4.

Wooden SleeperS Here’s a vintage clothing store that specialises in allAmerican styles for men. Owner Brian Davis, a former events planner in the tech industry, keeps a tight edit on stock, sourcing every piece himself. “If I don’t love it, it will never see the sales floor,” he says. Fast-moving items include the 1950s military issue khakis and allcotton hand-stamped souvenir T-shirts made in the US. The shop’s signature handmade Anchor Ridge candle is loved for its vanilla-infused-with-tobacco scent.

395 VaN BruNt StrEEt, BrOOKlyN, Ny 11231 | wOOdEN-SlEEPErS.cOm OPEN SKIES / 37

Smile all the stay.

Welcome to the new LUX* Grand Gaube, a totally reimagined retro-chic tropical retreat in Mauritius.

Launching December 2017. What’s Next?

MAURITIUS

•

RÉUNION

•

MALDIVES

•

CHINA

•

TURKEY

•

VIETNAM

•

U.A.E

•

I TA LY

neighbourhood

5.

The Red hook WineRy Head to the Waterfront Museum to get a sense of Red Hook – and Brooklyn’s – maritime history

In 2008, Brooklyn-born Mark Snyder opened Red Hook Winery to champion New York state viticulture by sourcing grapes from the North Fork of Long Island and the Finger Lakes. Operating out of the 1840 ‘Liberty Warehouse’ – a onetime shipment holding facility, then a bottling factory – so far his crew has produced over 200 different labels, with resident winemaker Christopher Nicolson’s 2014 Salt Crush, a blend of sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, asked for by name. You can sample it by the glass or as part of a flight. Note that the tasting room gets busy on the weekends though, so weekdays offer a more laidback visit with ocean views.

PIEr 41 | 325 A, 175 – 204 VAN DyKE StrEEt, BrOOKlyN, Ny 11231 | rEDhOOKwINEry.cOm OPEN SKIES / 39

NEIGHBOURHOOD

FOURMINUTE BICYCLE RIDE

6.

Emirates flies four times daily to New York JFK with the Airbus A380. Choose from three non-stop services, or a daily service that stops in Milan. Emirates also operates a daily service via Athens to Newark, New Jersey.

DID YOU KNOW? Red Hook is the only place in New York City that you can get a full-frontal view of the Statue of Liberty. It’s the Instagram moment you’ve been waiting for.

40 / OPEN SKIES

CACAO PRIETO

Reserve a Saturday or Sunday to visit Cacao Prieto, whose bean-to-bar chocolate factory tours are followed by bourbon whisky tastings at the adjoining Widow Jane distillery.

218 CONOVER STREET | BROOKLYN, NY 11231 |

END

CACAOPRIETO.COM, WIDOWJANE.COM

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This programme is offered outside Dubai and KHDA bears no responsibility for the programme

FEATURES LA PERLE • CASABLANCA

LA PERLE The first permanent theatrical production in Dubai, Franco Dragone has changed the game.

Turn over for more tales from the deep

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E D I S N T H E I

D N M I

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la perle

O F

F R A N C O

D R A G O N E The legendary artistic director explains his aquatic masterpiece, La Perle, and his hopes for it to become an essential part of the Dubai landscape WORDS: Iain Akerman

IMAGES: Bahr Al-Alum Karim

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la perle

46 / OPEN SKIES

la perle

55.2708° E

DUBAI

25.2048° N

“I know that I have to come to see the show tonight. And that I’m scared,” says Franco Dragone, the man behind Dubai’s first ever permanent theatrical production.

It’s not the kind of admission you’d expect from one of the world’s most sought-after artistic directors, but Dragone, the man who helped Cirque du Soleil become a household name, appears to savour quiet unpredictability.

“Maybe I will not be happy,” he suggests when questioned about his fear, his English softened by an Italian and Belgian heritage. “The first time there is a spectator in the theatre, as a director I want to leave, because it’s not my show any more.”

His latest show, of course, is La Perle, one of the most technologically advanced theatre productions in the world. Part circus, part Las Vegas spectacle, it has added a layer of extravagance to Dubai’s entertainment offering, providing what its creators describe as a “fusion of artistic performance, creative imagery and technological wizardry”.

“It takes a minimum of 36 months to develop a project and it took four to five years to do this,” he says. He has been in Dubai solidly for the past three months, changing, tweaking and finalising the performance. “What I wanted to do was not a show for Dubai, but a show from Dubai.”

We are both sitting in the back row of La Perle’s 1,288seat theatre in the heart of Al Habtoor City.

For the first half of our interview Dragone is barely visible, his upper body occasionally illuminated by flashes from a photographer’s camera. He is casually dressed and mindful of self-promotion.

“I was sitting here for three months and while I was here I was not the same person,” he says, lines of light lingering momentarily on his face. “You have to empty yourself and be available to what you see. It may sound pretentious, but you have a little feeling of eternity. You don’t think about time. It’s here and now. It’s immediate. The only time I really forget that tomorrow I might die is when I work.”

Behind him is La Perle’s tailor-made aqua-theatre, designed by Jean Rabasse and brought to life by the architectural firm Khatib and Alami. There’s a 12-metredeep circular pool and two motorised proscenium scenic doors, each 23 metres in height and weighing six tonnes, while suspended high above the stage is a 60,000kg motorised scenic tower.

For sheer audacity, it takes some beating. The stage floor, for example, can be transformed from a 2.7-million-litre pool into a solid dry deck within a matter of seconds, while special effects create waterfalls and rain. There’s also a 360-degree sound system and 3D projection mapping, with everything in the theatre doubling up as a projection screen.

“This theatre is not only a theatre, it’s the cinegraphic of the show,” says Dragone, who created La Perle in agreement with Al Habtoor Group. “We knew that we wanted to have this shape, we wanted to be very close to the audience, we wanted to work with video. It’s a creative process that takes years.

“When I work with a designer I say, ‘I’m working with you because I want to know who you are, what you have in your mind… We have to have a common world we can build together.’ I sometimes compare it to cooking. We have a shopping list, the partner often has a shopping list,

DUBAI

THE DETAILS LA PERLE TIME: 19.00-20.30/21.30-23.00

SHOW LENGTH: 90 MINUTES LOCATION: W DUBAI AL HABTOOR CITY

PRICES: DHS400-DHS1,600

Listen to an exclusive interview with Franco Dragone, artistic director of La Perle, on Emirates World, channel 1500 on ice.

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la perle

“You don’t think about time [when you’re creating]. The only time I really forget that tomorrow I might die is when I work”

I have something in the fridge, and I begin to cook, adding some spices for flavour.

“When I come into the studio for the first time and I have all the people there, I say, ‘OK, now we’re going to work. We’re on the same boat, we’re going to do one thing, and my job is to bring you to the destination.’ But to do this you need to do casting all over the world. You need to fail. We trained for hours – hours in the studio – for two acts that are not in the show. They worked so hard at it, but in reality it did not work.”

Of the final project, two acts in particular stand out.

The Wheel, performed with bravado by a Venezuelan named Tino, and the Globe, designed by Alfredo Silva and performed by five Brazilian stunt riders.

“As soon as I have to do a show I become like a satellite antennae. I am awake to everything. And there is only one thing: to find a specimen, to find something that will allow me not to work too much,” he says with a smile.

“With the Wheel for instance, or the bikers, these are the two acts I have invested the least amount of energy in, because I knew what they could deliver.”

In theory, Dragone should need no real introduction.

A conceptual theatre artist, he is credited with changing the face of live entertainment in Las Vegas, marrying human performance and the traditions of the circus with a world of sensual dreamscapes and the power of the four elements.

His productions, however, are arguably better known than he is. Shows such as Cirque du Soleil’s Mystère and O, and Celine Dion’s A New Day, a US$30 million production that premiered at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas in 2003.

At one point during La Perle, a six-metre articulated puppet, controlled by seven people, strolls across the stage. It is an act of pure artistic flamboyance and classic Dragone. So too is the ability of the artists to enter and exit the stage below the surface of the water.

“It is still a work in progress, because a show that doesn’t work every day will die. I have two big pieces that I still have to put in the show. For instance, what you see there is a tower bridge,” he says, indicating part of 48 / OPEN SKIES

the theatre to his right. “It’s a huge piece. But to put this in place I first need to have a test with the audience to see where I can place it.

“The other thing is that, when you do a show like this, if you have a storyline in your mind and you want to tell that storyline, it doesn’t work. It really has to come from what you have; from the elements of the production. Working and writing with the production is the way we work. We never say rehearsal, we say creation. Because it’s where we really write. I don’t know the speed of the winches that bring somebody from the floor to the ceiling. You cannot calculate this. It’s not defined. So I need to play with the toys to be able to produce something.

la perle

Four to see Franco Dragone shows around the world

1

Macau, china The House of Dancing Water

2

Paris, France Paris Merveilles

3

“There is an expression that we use. It’s called ‘shaking the stage’ – to provoke something. Not to have what you have planned, but to have more than what you had planned. To finish a day and to have seen what I was expecting is a sad day for me. I like to be surprised. And for this we need to take risks. I appreciate and admire people like the Habtoor family, because this is a risk. Any entertainment is a risk. You never know if it will work or not. I am not this kind of cook who has a recipe book and tries to apply those recipes. It’s only by putting your finger in the sauce that you taste and you feel and you see if you are heading in the right direction.”

the show La Perle features a breathtaking fusion of artistic performance, creative imagery and ground-breaking technology

wuhan, china The Han Show

4

Las Vegas, us Le Rêve

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la perle

The sTage A global cast of 65 skilled artists capable of superhuman aquatic and aerial stunts perform during the 90-minute show

The show is less than a month old when Dragone and I meet and feedback (both public and private) has been positive, although questions inevitably arise. Will ticket pricing be an obstacle to repeat business? Does the idea of a permanent show resonate in a market unused to such a concept? And does the vague and amorphous nature of the storyline detract from the show’s overall impact?

“My first show in Las Vegas was in 1993 and it’s still there,” he replies. “One of the reasons why I am so careful with the storyline is because when the storyline is too clear people think they have seen the show and don’t want to go back. It’s not like a movie. This kind of show is a live experience, and I really believe that today, although we are creating social communities, live entertainment, where people gather together, is something that will never die.”

Dragone has dedicated his entire life to the stage. Born in southern Italy but raised in Belgium, he studied drama 50 / OPEN SKIES

at the Conservatoire Royal de Mons, falling in love with commedia dell’arte and political theatre before heading to Montreal and, shortly after, a life-changing opportunity with Cirque du Soleil.

“Belgium was very political,” he says. “Every day there was a strike or a factory was occupied, so I was

“When the storyline is too clear people think they have seen the show and don’t want to go back. This is not a movie” surrounded by people motivated by the far left. I was always involved in political demonstrations and when I came across theatre for the first time at school my teacher was a revelation. I really think theatre can change your life.

It certainly changed mine.”

LA PERLE

“What I wanted to do was not a show for Dubai, but a show from Dubai”

Prior to La Perle’s launch, Dragone stated that the show would be “the most awe-inspiring and technically advanced theatre production I have ever produced and directed”. It was some statement considering his work with Cirque du Soleil on Le Cirque Réinventé, Nouvelle Expérience and Alegria, and his own Le Rêve in Las Vegas and The House of Dancing Water in Macau.

“Every show we do we have learnt from the previous one,” he explains. “The first show I did with water, I think it was a conscious problem for me to use water.

So we have learnt how not to waste it. The technology is not what we want to show off. It has to support an emotional journey. The technology has to be at our service, otherwise it doesn’t work.

“We have to remember to remain humble in front of this kind of journey. There are always more important things than what we do, but we have to do it. It’s our responsibility to try and always push the boundaries.”

From now until the end of the year, Dragone and his team will be working on further creations, with a revamp of the show planned for the first quarter of 2018.

“Although this is commercial – it’s show business – we have always to think that we are citizens of the world and we have to have a political consciousness,” he says.

“You cannot work without consciousness. That would be only movement and puppetry and it’s not enough.

You need to put your soul, your thought, the respect of people and solidarity into your work.

“I really think that we achieved a miracle here.

Because the obstacles were big – very, very big.”

52 / OPEN SKIES

THE TEAM There is a team of around 70 technicians, which includes rigging, automation, sound and light.

THE CROWD Purpose-built for the show, this is the most technically advanced theatre in the world to date. There are 1,288 seats with none more than 14 rows from the action.

LA PERLE

THE HOUSE THAT DRAGONE BUILT How the purpose-built La Perle theatre makes it rain every night

THE TECH The surface of the stage is made up of a product called Chemgrate, which allows water to be pushed through the material and drain within seconds, by being pulled down.

THE BACKDROP The mashrabiya doors weigh six tonnes each, roughly the size of three rhinos or six giraffes.

THE DIVE Scuba divers are underwater throughout to ensure the diver’s safety. Once the artist dives in the water, they place an oxygen mask on them and swim through a special tunnel leading backstage.

THE CANVAS Everything in the theatre is a projection canvas – from the walls to the seats and floor.

The cyclorama screen at the back is 22 metres tall – the same height as an IMAX screen.

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THIS IS NOT LA

54 / OPEN SKIES

33.5731°N,

7.5898°W

T H E C A S A B L A N C A E f f E C T It might be one of the most loved movies of all-time, but Casablanca itself bears little resemblance to Michael Curtiz’s noirish masterpiece. In fact, scratch beneath the surface and you discover a place that’s, surprisingly, more akin to Hollywood than you might imagine

WORDS AND IMAGES: Sarah Freeman

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casablanca

7.5898° W

33.5731° N

CASABLANCA

Trying to sum up Casablanca is more difficult than you might think. After all, the name itself is more likely to evoke images of Michael Curtiz’s iconic 1942 movie than it is the actual city, even though not one scene was shot there – Warner Bros preferring to film some 6,000 miles away in Hollywood’s Burbank Studios.

But while Hollywood was busy imitating Casablanca, Casablanca was being remodelled with Los Angeles in mind, forming a US-West African hybrid that has long since blurred both cultural and physical lines.

Based on the unproduced play Everybody Comes to Rick’s, its’ rights were acquired by Warner Bros for a record US$20,000 and then turned into a screenplay

by Julius J. Epstein, Howard E. Koch, Philip G. Epstein and Casey Robinson. It was renamed Casablanca and rushed into production to coincide with the Allied invasion of central West Africa in 1942. It would go on to win Academy Awards en route to being acknowledged as one of the greatest films of all-time. But while the great romantic noir starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman continues to inspire nostalgia three quarters of a century later, the same cannot really be said of its effect on tourism.

But something is stirring in the town, and it has more than a passing resemblance to Hollywood.

Under the eye of the world’s tallest minaret is a city with a burgeoning surf scene, its very own Beverly Hills neighbourhood, a hipster coffee culture, and one of the world’s single best collections of Art Deco buildings.

Add to this a 3-km-long corniche studded with trendy beach clubs and waterfront restaurants, and tree-lined boulevards that wouldn’t look out of place in uptown LA, and you have a curious cross-pollination that is well worth your time.

CASABLANCA

MUST-SEE IN MOROCCO

French architect Michel Pinseau designed Casa’s Hassan II Mosque. It has the world’s tallest minaret (689ft), a retractable roof and can accommodate 105,000 worshippers on the entire site.

Emirates operates a daily A380 service to Casablanca.

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did you know...

As Casablanca celebrates its 75th anniversary this month, here’s some trivia to impress and annoy with

• Widely regarded as the ‘perfect’ screenplay, in 1982 Film Comment writer Chuck Ross put a new cover on the Casablanca script with the title Everybody Comes to Rick’s and submitted it to 217 Hollywood agencies. Of the 83 that actually read it, 38 rejected it, 33 recognised it generally, and just eight recognised it specifically as Casablanca.

• In some of Casablanca’s betterknown posters, the shot of a trench coat- and fedora-wearing Humphrey Bogart (above) was pulled almost wholesale from a publicity shot from his earlier film, Across the Pacific, by poster artist Bill Gold, who had then repainted it in a photorealistic style.

• In 1988, American Film Technologies completed a colour version of Casablanca, taking two months and at a cost of US$450,000. When it eventually aired on TV, it was watched by three million viewers, not even making the top-ten shows for the week. Humphrey Bogart’s son Stephen would later comment, “If you’re going to colorise Casablanca, why not put arms on the Venus de Milo?”

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casablanca

A

58 / OPEN SKIES

g i n

j o i nt

The vast, arched, mosaicfloored tavern known in the movie as Café Americain was actually modelled on the Hotel El Minzah’s bar in Tangiers. But the city wouldn’t be Casablanca without it. At least that’s what former American diplomat Kathy Kriger believed. So with the help of some bankrolling friends she transformed a 1930s mansion in the old medina into one of the city’s most cherished landmarks. Just like Bogart’s character, Rick, the proprietor in the movie, Kathy lives upstairs, although unlike him she makes a point

of socialising with the patrons. In fact, the 70-year old Portland native works the room every single night of the week and the restaurant is a faithful homage to the legendary gin joint – all sultry lighting, potted palms, tasselfringed brass lamps and bartenders in burgundy fezzes. The replica café even has its very own Sam – the movie’s charismatic piano player. Issam Chabaa might also be the general manager, but he’s pretty adept at Sinatra’s As Time Goes By – the film’s unofficial anthem.

Deco

Downtown

Much like Los Angeles, Casablanca’s Art Deco scene coincided with the city’s rapid growth. The arrival of French colonists was the catalyst, their imprint on downtown’s high-rise buildings – a blend of French colonial style and Mauresque architecture – is unmistakable on Rue Idriss Lahrizi. Casablanca was inundated with some of the world’s greatest architects in the 1920s and ’30s, such as French-born Paul Tournon, who designed the (now desacralised) L’Eglise du Sacré Coeur.

While the city’s bone white (sometimes derelict and pigeon-occupied)

Art Deco facades may not have the polish and colour of LA’s jazz-era beauties, their ornamental curves, floral motifs and ornate wrought iron balconies are steeped in faded grandeur. The spruced up variety can be found at Place Mohammed V – home to Casablanca’s Grande Poste, Banque d’Etat and Wilaya’s distinctive clock tower.

Just around the corner is another Art Deco icon: the Rialto Cinema, which hosted the likes of Josephine Baker and Édith Piaf in its heyday, and continues to screen Casablanca regularly.

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Experience Polynesia in the heart of Dubai Parks and Resorts Step into an exciting world of curiosity with an unforgettable stay at Lapita, a unique gateway to the endless fun and enjoyment on offer at Dubai Parks and Resorts.

Create moments to treasure with friends and family when you stay within Polynesian inspired rooms with complimentary theme park tickets*, bond over a meal at amazing restaurants or unwind at the Lapita lazy river.

Exactly like nothing else.

Book now at lapitadubaihotel.com Tel +971 4 810 9999 Lapita, Dubai Parks and Resorts, Autograph Collection Hotels Dubai Parks and Resorts, Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O. Box 334221, Dubai, UAE LapitaHotel | LapitaHotel | @lapitahoteldubai *Terms and conditions apply

casablanca

U p s c a l e Anfa (the ancient name for Casablanca) is one of the city’s newer neighbourhoods. Set on a hill overlooking the Ain Diab Corniche and the Atlantic, the upscale residential enclave has an air of Beverly Hills about it, with whitewashed villas – featuring many Art Deco masterpieces – along with well-tended swimming pools separated by immaculate hedgerows and succulents.

At the Royal Golf Club, set within the AnfaCasablanca racecourse, riders and golfers mingle with ladies that lunch. The exclusive zip code (where

a n f a

King Mohammed VI is rumoured to have a plot) is also where the city’s brunch set convenes in one of the many villas-turned-chic-cafés.

This is also where you’ll find Casablanca’s only Bikram yoga studio too, Om Yoga, set in a serene Mediterranean-style villa with a stylish pool area serving homemade raw juices.

l a - st y l e Painted on to countless movie backdrops, LA’s sultry, swaying palmtree boulevards have become synonymous with Hollywood. The city is estimated to have some 75,000 palms, many of which sprung up in the 1930s, together with the construction of its modern boulevards. Six thousand miles away, the French were building Casablanca’s signature wide, palmfringed avenues as part of its grand Art Deco makeover. Boulevard Mohammed V, in the heart of old Casablanca, and

Avenue Hassan II, are the city’s answer to LA’s iconic Sunset and Hollywood Boulevards.

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casablanca

S u r f

Building a reputation as one of the best urban spots to ride Atlantic waves, Casablanca’s surf scene is the real deal.

It may not garner the attention that the Southern Coast’s Taghazout does, but that certainly hasn’t stopped Quiksilver from hosting its annual procompetition here.

Reputedly, the country’s best left-hand-break is 20km southwest of the city in Dar Bouazza – a town of fishermen, farmers and a 100-strong local surf 62 / OPEN SKIES

S a f a r i

community. Its laidback, Santa Monica-like vibe has seduced many an expat, including 30-year-old Scott Romig, owner of Kai Shapes, who builds around 200 custom boards a year from his horse barnturned-surf shop. He “got happily stuck” here in 2013, after taking a diversion from teaching English in Egypt. “Dar Bouazza is one of the most authentic surf towns in Morocco, and it’s hidden in plain sight, just minutes from Casablanca,” he explains.

BRIEFING

news • inside emirates • destination • visa • Uae smart Gate • roUte map • fleet

winter season in stockholm From December 8, Emirates adds three additional flights to its weekly service to the Swedish capital.

turn over for more news from emirates

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news

Emirates wins best entertainment award

Additional service to Stockholm EmiratEs is to introducE three additional flights per week to the Swedish capital city of Stockholm.

Complementing the airline’s existing schedule, the new flights will be added to meet growing demand on the route, particularly during the winter season.

The additional flights will depart each Friday, Saturday and Sunday, enhancing Sweden’s global long-haul connectivity and offering passengers travelling from Stockholm the chance to reach over 70 Emirates destinations in Asia, Australasia, Africa and the Middle East.

The new Emirates flight EK155 will commence from December 8, departing Dubai at 15.00 and arriving in Stockholm Arlanda Airport at

18.45. The return flight EK156 will depart ARN at 21.10, arriving at Dubai International Airport at 06.30 the following day.

Operated by Emirates’ Boeing 777-300ER aircraft in a three-class configuration, the new flights, like the current scheduled daily flight, will offer eight Private Suites in First Class, featuring automated sliding doors for privacy and a personal mini-bar; 42 lieflat seats in Business and 310 spacious seats in Economy.

Since launching its current daily scheduled service to Stockholm in September 2013, Emirates has continued to grow demand for both inbound and outbound travel.

EmiratEs has clinchEd the Passenger Choice award for Best Entertainment at the 2017 APEX Passenger Choice Awards in California.

The airline’s President, Sir Tim Clark, was also honoured with the CEO Lifetime Achievement Award (below), while the Best Original Video accolade went to Emirates’ ‘Welcome to ice’ product video.

The airline also landed a Five-Star Global Airline Official Airline Rating – the highest available – in the first airline-rating programme, based solely on certified passenger feedback.

Emirates has been at the forefront of innovation with its inflight entertainment system, ice. It was the first airline to install in-seat personal screens in every class of service 25 years ago and continues to enhance its product for a superior inflight experience.

Ice features more than 2,500 channels of entertainment, including the latest movies from around the world in over 30 languages, numerous awardwinning TV box sets, a huge music collection and over 100 games.

Constantly evolving, the last 12 months has seen 10 per cent more entertainment added, including more varied content giving customers greater choice than ever before.

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news

Emirates SkyCargo has pharma certification revalidated EmiratEs skyCargo has rECEivEd a revalidation of the European Union Good Distribution Practices (EU GDP) certification for pharma operations at its hub in Dubai.

The carrier’s original GDP certification in 2016 and the subsequent revalidation this year – carried out by Germany’s Bureau Veritas – confirm that Emirates SkyCargo has established and maintained its quality management system in line with the requirements of the GDP standard. It also underlines the airline’s commitment to continued high quality and consistency in the levels of service delivery for pharmaceutical transport.

September 2017 also marked a year since the launch of Emirates SkyCargo’s specialised pharma product: Emirates

Pharma. In its first 12 months, Emirates SkyCargo transported over 51,000 tonnes of pharmaceuticals valued at over US$11 billion. Pharma volumes transported between January and September 2017 grew by over 25 per cent when compared with the same

period in 2016. Some of the main types of pharmaceuticals transported include vaccines, medication for diabetes and cancer, and Active Pharmaceutical Ingredients.

Emirates SkyCargo is the largest international cargo airline in the world.

Emirates and flydubai announce first codeshare routes EmiratEs will Expand its network to 29 flydubai destinations following the signing of a partnership agreement between the two airlines earlier this year.

The new partner network will offer greater frequency and easier access to more global destinations with the advantage of connecting baggage to the final destination. When booked together, as part of the codeshare, Emirates passengers will receive 68 / OPEN SKIES

complimentary meals and the Emirates checked baggage allowance on flights operated by flydubai in both Business and Economy Classes.

HH Sheikh Ahmed Bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive of Emirates Group and Chairman of flydubai, said: “This is an exciting first step in unlocking the benefits of the partnership for passengers who will have the opportunity to enjoy the unique

advantages each airline offers, as well as greater choice and flexibility when connecting via Dubai. This is just the start and as we expand the partner network in the coming months we will open up more opportunities for our passengers to explore the world.”

The codeshare destinations include Asmara, Belgrade, Kiev, Bucharest, Sarajevo, Sofia, Tbilisi, Baku, Lucknow and Esfahan.

SharjahMuseumsAuthority

inside emirates

Celebrating Emirates’ 100th A380 Emirates flies more A380 aircraft than anyone in the world, and this month receives its 100th. Here’s a record of evolution for the most iconic – and largest – passenger aircraft in the skies

HIGHLY POPULAR More than 80m passengers have flown on the Emirates A380 in the last nine years.

THe neTwORk Today, Emirates flies the A380 aircraft to 48 destinations across six continents.

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keePInG YOU cOnnecTed Emirates’ entire A380 fleet has been fitted with connectivity to allow for free 20mb of Wi-Fi throughout the cabin. In June 2016, the first A380 was fitted with Live TV allowing passengers to watch news and sports matches live on board.

PROdUcT InnOvATOR In 2008, Emirates launched the very first Onboard Lounge and First Class Shower Spa on a commercial flight.

Today, the Shower Spa is equipped with sustainable VOYA spa products.

inside emirates

eVoLVING eNTerTAINMeNT Emirates’ awardwinning inflight entertainment system, ice, is constantly updated to provide customers with more choices for on-demand entertainment as well as improvements to the viewing experience. It now provides 2,500 channels of blockbuster movies, TV box sets, music and documentaries.

INTrodUcING THe creW Emirates has over 23,000 A380 cabin crew and over 1,500 A380 pilots.

ScreeN IdoL As the content has increased, so has the hardware. In-seat screens have been made larger across all classes. From 27-inches to 32 in First Class, from 17-inches to 20 in Business Class, and from 10-inches to 13.3 in Economy Class – the industry’s largest. You’ll now also find USB ports for power and data in each seat as well as HDMI ports in premium classes to connect personal devices to the ice screen.

LIFe AT 40,000FT Since its 2008 debut, the A380 Onboard Lounge has become the most popular spot at 40,000 feet, going through several subtle changes before unveiling a brand new look in July. Inspired by private yacht cabins, it features a more intimate and social area for up to 26 guests, with a larger 55 inch LCD screen, featuring surround sound speakers that offer customers the latest flight information or live TV broadcasts of the latest news and sports updates.

record BreAKING Emirates flies the world’s longest A380 flight, a non-stop Dubai to Auckland journey of 14,193km introduced in March 2016. At 851km, Dubai to Kuwait is its shortest A380 flight.

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Tunis emirates now offers a daily service to the capital of tunisia. here’s our guide on how to explore this historic city

Centred on the grand Avenue Habib Bourguiba, there is much to love about this hybrid marvel on the south-western edge of the Gulf of Tunis. The maze of streets and alleyways that make up the old Medina of Tunis; the grid of avenues built by the French towards the tail end of the 19th century; the endless coastline; and the dizzying array of palaces, mosques, madrassas, fountains and mausoleums – the latter attractions predominantly located in the medina – all 700 of them.

A Unesco World Heritage site, the Medina of Tunis alone is worth a trip to Tunisia. Once considered one of the greatest and wealthiest cities in the Islamic world, Tunis’ rich past is evident in the urban fabric, monuments and gates sprinkled generously throughout the old city. There’s the Zitouna, Kasbah and Youssef Dey mosques, the Souk El-Attarine, and the Bab Bhar Gate, which for most will mark their entry into the medina and a world of wonder.

Since its first flight to Tunis in October 2006, Emirates has carried more than one million passengers and over 60,000 tonnes of cargo on the route. Globally, the airline employs more than 500 Tunisian nationals, including over 200 cabin crew.

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DESTINATION

DAR EL JELD

DAR SLAH

EL ALI

dareljeld.com

darslah.tn

+216 71 321 927

Situated in the Medina of Tunis is Dar El Jeld (House of Leather), once the headquarters of a tanning company but now one of the best restaurants in the country.

Serving traditional Tunisian cuisine, its elaborate dining room, traditional tiles and sumptuous chandeliers provide exquisite surroundings for a delightful meal.

Also located in the medina on Rue de la Kasbah is this family mansion dating back more than four centuries. With a menu that changes daily and a kitchen that uses only the freshest seasonal ingredients. Expect fish of the day served whole by weight, and couscous with osban, a traditional – and tasty – stuffed sausage.

On Rue Jamaa Ez Zitouna lies El Ali, a restaurant and cultural cafe housed in a restored 16th century building.

Serving a variety of Tunisian dishes, one of its main attractions is a rooftop terrace offering panoramic views of Zitouna Mosque, the mausoleum of Sidi Belhassen Chedly and the Cathedral of Tunis.

DAR BEN-GACEM

PALAIS BAYRAM

HOTEL ROYAL VICTORIA

darbengacem.com

palaisbayram.com

hotel-royalvictoria.com

Once a 17th century home and now a restored seven-room guesthouse, this four-star gem with a beautiful central courtyard doubles up as a social enterprise.

All profits are reinvested into the restoration of homes in the medina in which it resides, helping revive the architectural and artistic heritage of Tunis.

MEDINA OF TUNIS

It goes without saying that a visit to the Medina of Tunis is a priority. Wander the alleyways without care, sip tea in one of the city’s many coffee shops, buy sweets, watch craftsmen at work, and enjoy panoramic views of the medina from the rooftops of shops filled floor-to-ceiling with rugs. +20 122 757 5555

Restored over the course of eight years and once the residence of the grand mufti of the Kingdom of Tunisia, Palais Bayram sits in the oldest part of the medina and is a living museum. Featuring grand mosaics, painted woodwork and coffered ceilings, this charming 18-suite boutique hotel first opened in 2015.

CARTHAGE

Fifteen kilometres north of Tunis lie the ruins of Carthage.

Wars between the Phoenician city state and Rome may have led to the city’s destruction, but it was rebuilt by the Romans, with these later Roman buildings making up the bulk of what is an extensive archaeological site.

Overlooking the Bab Bhar Gate, you’d be hard pushed to find a better location.

Immediately opposite the medina, to the hotel’s right also lies the Avenue Habib Bourguiba and its multitude of shops, theatres, cafes and restaurants. Recently modernised, the hotel offers a combination of Moorish decor and upscale bling.

SIDI BOU SAID

Also outside the city limits but well worth the 20km drive is Sidi Bou Said, famed for its blue and white buildings and wonderful views of the Gulf of Tunis.

Named after a 13th century Sufi saint and a favoured retreat of artists, it is a beautifully preserved cobbled town.

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Comfort

Comfort in the air

To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

Smart Traveller

DRink plEnTY of WATER

Rehydrate with water or juices frequently.

Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAvEl lighTlY

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

BEfoRE YouR JouRnEY

Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

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WEAR glAssEs

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

AT ThE AiRpoRT

usE skin moisTuRisER

Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

kEEp moving

Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.

DuRing ThE flighT

mAkE YouRsElf comfoRTABlE

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

shARps BoxEs

Sharps boxes are available onboard all Emirates flights for safe disposal of medical equipment.

Please ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.

WhEn You ARRivE

Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

20.09.2017 - 19.03.2018

SHEIKH ZAYED GRAND MOSQUE, ABU DHABI

Hilya by Hasan Rida, in jali thuluth and naskh scripts. Rida was a student of both Mehmed Sefik Bey and Kazasker Mustafa Izzet Efendi. 1323 AH, 1905/6 CE, Turkey. © HE Mohammed al-Murr Collection

Under the Patronage of His Highness Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Presidential Affairs

VISA GUIDE

Guide to US customs & immigration

Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hasslefree as possible.

Customs Declaration Form

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* **

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Subject to change Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Program.

VISA GUIDE

Cut the queue at JFK with Quick Connect If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service.

The US Customs And Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow these steps

1

Have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

2

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals Hall.

3

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

4

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to Emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

Quarantine in Australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard.

Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

Quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • You have recently been to a livestock farm • Are bringing livestock products into Japan • Your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.

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INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES SIX HOSPITALS, OVER 20 CLINICS AND MORE THAN 700 INPATIENT BEDS ACROSS DUBAI, ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY www.mediclinic.ae MOH MH52817-30.9.18

Be Smart!

Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

Using UAE Smart Gate is easy

1

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the card slot

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE SMART GUIDE

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Portugal

San Marino

Oman

OK!

3

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed.

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT

Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures across all three terminals at DXB. 80 / OPEN SKIES

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • E-Gate cards • Emirates ID cards

CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS LEGAL TRANSLATION DEBT COLLECTION TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT

DUBAI

EMIRATES TOWERS 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39

ABU DHABI

JABEL ALI

SHARJAH

INTERNET CITY

TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 auh@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 shj@emiratesadvocates.com

TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 dic@emiratesadvocates.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH

TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 rak@emiratesadvocates.com

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ROUTE MAP

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*Suspended

ROUTE MAP

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ROUTE MAP

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Emirates Fleet

Our fleet of 268 aircraft includes 254 passenger aircraft and 14 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800 101 IN FLEET

This month:

2 arriving

All aircraft

20+ aircraft

BOEING 777-300ER 137 IN FLEET

Up to 489-615 passengers. Range: 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m

This month:

1 arriving

All aircraft 100+ aircraft

Up to 354-428 passengers. Range: 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-200LR 10 IN FLEET

All aircraft

Up to 266 passengers. Range: 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-300

5 IN FLEET For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

All aircraft

Up to 364 passengers. Range: 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

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FLEET HERE’S WHAT CONNECTIVITY, ENTERTAINMENT AND SERVICES ARE AVAILABLE ON BOARD EACH AIRCRAFT TYPE

Live TV, news & sport

Wi-Fi

Mobile phone

Data roaming

Number of channels

First Class Shower Spa

*Onboard lounge

**In-seat power

USB port

In-seat telephone

* First Class and Business Class; **Available in all rows in Economy Class, and in all seats in First Class and Business Class

AIRBUS A319

1 IN FLEET

Up to 19 passengers. Range: 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 777F 13 IN FLEET

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 747 ERF 1 IN FLEET

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of

Range: 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m

oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

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Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press

Range: 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

CElEbriTy dirECTions

Drake’s

GUIDE TO TORONTO Each month, the great and good curate a travel itinerary exclusively for Open Skies. This month, Canadian hip-hop royalty WORDS: Emma Coiler

79.3832° W

TORONTO

43.6532° N

If you’re in Toronto for the first time then you’ve got to be prepared.

Depending on what time of year it is, my advice is to go and see one of our sports teams play. Whether it’s the Raptors (basketball), Blue Jays (baseball), or Maple Leafs (ice hockey), go and get yourself some tickets – you’ll love it.

Now you could say I’m a little biased, but if you’re heading into town then OVO (Drake’s own store) on Dundas is a great place to shop. We’ve got some very exciting collaborations going on and when you’re here you should come and check us out for sure. You’ll be pleased to hear that Toronto hasn’t forgotten record shops either, and that’s something that makes me very proud. I don’t want to name just one – but there are some great ones – and you don’t need to walk far to find them.

When you’re hungry, head to Vivoli in Little Italy. They keep things real simple, but do the best pizza and pasta dishes I have ever tasted.

If you’re staying out for the night – and like ping-pong – then Spin is a great place just to hang out, drink and eat. Now listen carefully as this part is crucial: if you’re looking for late-night food, then Hong Shing is the afterclub spot. You can get great Chinese food there until, like, 4am – and you never know who you might meet at that time of the morning.

To chill out the next day, the CN Tower is probably our most famous landmark – and with good reason. If it’s a clear day you’ll get spectacular views of the city. It’s a really great place to visit with the family.

Different parts of the city mean different things to me – but now when I’m back home I spend a lot of time in Yorkville. It’s a great neighbourhood with lots of places to eat and chill.

Just one day in the city? OK, I got you here: CN Tower, shopping in Dundas, Raptors game, dinner in Little Italy – done.

THE DETAILS EAT Vivoli | Little Italy SHOP Ovo | Dundas

NIGHT OUT Spin | King Street DINE Hong Shing | Dundas

SEE CN Tower | Front Street CHILL Yorkville | Yorkville

Emirates flies non-stop daily from Dubai to Chicago with the Boeing 777-300ER.

90 / OPEN SKIES

TORONTO