Open Skies | May 2018

HOW DUBAI WORKS The story behind the city’s superstructures

DISTRICT 3

Discovering calm amidst the chaos of Saigon

CAPTAIN AMERICA ON BOSTON

A travel guide by Chris Evans exclusively for Open Skies

CAMBODIA

Iconic train journey now boarding from Phnom Penh. Sense of adventure essential

Live Loud.

The All-New VELOSTER.

hyundai.com/veloster

FLANNEL

EDITOR-INCHIEF

MANAGING PARTNER & GROUP EDITOR

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

OBAID HUMAID AL TAYER

IAN FAIRSERVICE

GINA JOHNSON GINA@MOTIVATE.AE

GROUP EDITOR

SENIOR EDITOR

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

DESIGNER

MARK EVANS MARKE@MOTIVATE.AE

ANDREW NAGY ANDREW.NAGY@MOTIVATE.AE

OLGA PETROFF OLGA.PETROFF@MOTIVATE.AE

RALPH MANCAO RALPH@MOTIVATE.AE

DIGITAL ANIMATOR

SUB EDITOR

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

SURAJIT DUTTA SURAJIT@MOTIVATE.AE

SALIL KUMAR SALIL@MOTIVATE.AE

LONDRESA FLORES LONDRESA@MOTIVATE.AE

AARTI SAUNDALKAR AARTI@MOTIVATE.AE

CONTRIBUTORS IAIN AKERMAN, DJINANE ALSUWAYEH, CHRISTOPHER BEANLAND, EMMA COILER, SARAH FREEMAN, S. HOTTINGER-BEHMER, DOM JOLY, ALI KHALED COVER: RALPH MANCAO

GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION

PRODUCTION MANAGER

CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER

GROUP SALES MANAGER

SUNIL KUMAR SUNIL@MOTIVATE.AE

R MURALI KRISHNAN MURALIK@MOTIVATE.AE

ANTHONY MILNE ANTHONY@MOTIVATE.AE

MICHAEL UNDERDOWN MICHAEL@MOTIVATE.AE

ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER

SENIOR SALES MANAGER

SENIOR SALES MANAGER

BINU PURANDARAN BINU@MOTIVATE.AE

MURALI NARAYANAN MURALI@MOTIVATE.AE

JAMIE O’LOANE JAMIE.OLOANE@MOTIVATE.AE

EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES

EDITOR

ARABIC EDITOR

DEPUTY EDITOR

MANNA TALIB

HATEM OMAR

CATHERINE FREEMAN

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions.

Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: emirates@motivate.ae 4 / OPEN SKIES

134,102 copies July – December 2017

Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

CONTENTS

INTRO

12

EXPERIENCE

16

STAY

22

TRAVEL ESSENTIAL

24

DISPATCH

28

EXPO 2020

30

NEIGHBOURHOOD

36

THE YEAR OF ZAYED

38

43

LUNCH WITH

DOM JOLY

FEATURES

58

46

BACK ON TRACK

HOW DUBAI WAS BUILT

BRIEFING

68

NEWS

72

INSIDE EMIRATES

74

DESTINATION

76

SMART GATE, VISA AND COMFORT

82

ROUTE MAP

88

THE FLEET

90

CELEBRITY DIRECTIONS OPEN SKIES / 7

EDITOR’S NOTE

ON THE COVER

HOW DUBAI WORKS This month’s cover looks at the inner workings of Dubai’s superstructures.

In most cities around the world, you’ll find a fairly organised collection of buildings making up the skyline. There’ll often be an overarching style or symmetry that makes it instantly recognisable – the whitewashed cubical houses of Santorini, the pastel shaded homes of southern Italy or the high-rise urban sprawl of New York City, Those places usually feature a high number of neutral buildings punctuated by an architectural gem; a standout building that becomes a magnet for tourists. In Dubai, things are a little different. Here, neutral buildings provide the punctuation between some of the most ambitious architectural feats in the world.

From Burj Al Arab to Burj Khalifa, The Dubai Frame to Palm Jumeirah, it’s often hard to keep up with the wondrous creations rising from the desert, and even harder to predict just how fantastical the next ones will be – tip: be sure to keep an eye on the progress of Dynamic Tower designed by David Fisher, an 80-storey building with rotating floors.

Perhaps the best is yet to come. Santiago Calatrava – the architect behind the UAE pavilion at the Expo 2020 site – describes his plans for Dubai Creek Tower – that could eventually replace Burj Khalifa as the world’s tallest building – as, “a symbol of an abiding belief and progress.”

It’s perhaps a line that could be used equally well to describe Dubai itself.

ANDREW NAGY SENIOR EDITOR

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ALSO AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD OPEN SKIES / 9

Programmes offered are outside Dubai and KHDA bears no responsibility for the same.

Intro

NEIGHBOURHOOD

EXPERIENCE • STAY

MAY 19

THE EMIRATES FA CUP FINAL May is traditionally a month of cup finals, but none are bigger than the 137th edition of the oldest recognised football tournament in the world at Wembley Stadium.

LONDON, ENGLAND | THEFA.COM

Turn over to plan your month

•

INTRO DISPATCH • EXPO 2020 • NEIGHBOURHOOD

EXPERIENCE

THE PLAN Events to aim for this month

MAY 1-7

THE ILLUSIONISTS Award-winning escapologist Krendl Magic talks going through the pain barrier, brushes with death and how what you see on stage is real WORDS: Andrew Nagy

What makes this show so different?

The main thing is in collaborating with some of the best illusionists from around the world and then bringing them together on one stage. Most shows have one or two, we have seven.

What’s your favourite moment?

For me, honestly, it’s when I get out of the Water Torture Cell trick alive. No matter how many times I go in the tank, not once has it come easy to me. The pain I go through nightly is real and getting my first breath of air after holding it for three minutes when I escape is nothing short of ecstasy.

How dangerous are your stunts?

I’m very fortunate to have the support staff that I do and there are procedures in place on how to deal with anything that could go wrong.

That said, I’ve had several close calls in my history with the Water Cell. I’ve vomited many times from getting water in my lungs and have passed out twice in my career while in the tank. It’s hard for the audience, sometimes, to accept what they are seeing is real and dangerous. People like to believe because it’s happening in a show 12 / OPEN SKIES

that it’s fake. Make no mistake, I am holding my breath for real, in real water, and going through real pain to push past what everyone believes is possible.

There is nothing more powerful than the mind.

What was the first escape trick you perfected?

The very first one for me was the Milk Can Escape, made infamous by Houdini performing it as the first water escape on stage in history. It was years later before I ever thought or contemplated doing the Water Torture Cell.

What happened to using a word when performing a trick?

You know, I’m in awe of the word abracadabra. While I realise it’s kind of lost it’s symbolism and been way over-used at children’s parties, there is a history to it that suggests otherwise. The word abracadabra originated from the Aramaic language and it means, ‘What I speak is what I create.’ Cool, right?

DUBAI, UAE | THEILLUSIONISTSLIVE.COM

In the mood for some magic? Catch all eight Harry Potter movies now showing on ice.

EXPERIENCE

FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION… MAY 2-5

SPAMALOT

The Tony Award-winning musical comes to Dubai Opera this month. Expect misfit knights, killer rabbits, dancing nuns and ferocious Frenchmen, in a show lovingly ‘borrowed’ from Monty Python and the Holy Grail and written by former Python, Eric Idle.

DUBAI, UAE | DUBAIOPERA.COM

MAY 8-19

CANNES FILM FESTIVAL

From a delayed launch in 1946 – it was meant to be 1939 but the Second World War broke out – to the showbiz scandals of the ’50s to now. Cannes may not be the world’s oldest film festival – that’s Venice – but it’s undeniably the most influential, all set to a stunning French Riviera backdrop.

CANNES, FRANCE | FESTIVAL-CANNES.COM

MAY 11

STEREOPHONICS

This could be the last chance to enjoy an open-air gig in Dubai before the thermometers push past the too-hot-todance setting. It’s now 20 years since Stereophonics’ debut album Word Gets Around was released, so expect some classics along with tracks from their current album, Scream Above The Sounds.

DUBAI, UAE | DUBAI.PLATINUMLIST.NET

MAY 16-JUNE 14

RAMADAN

The Holy Month sees Muslims around the world observe the ninth month of the Islamic calendar by praying and fasting from sunrise to sunset. This is a time for family and friends, who celebrate by coming together each day for the breaking of the fast during Suhoor and Iftar.

GLOBAL OPEN SKIES / 13

EXPERIENCE

MAY 6

PHILIPPE COUTINHO One of the most expensive footballers of all time on this month’s El Clasico (his first) and Brazil’s chances in the World Cup

A GUIDE TO MAY

Follow a plan of activity based loosely on the career of Coutinho

RIO DE JANEIRO (birthplace, 1992)

LIVERPOOL (games: 152, goals: 41)

BARCELONA (games: 10, goals: 2)

Getúlio Damado makes art from disused items then displays them in a tram.

Double Fantasy – John and Yoko. An exhibition at the Museum of Liverpool.

The Spanish Grand Prix, one of the oldest F1 races in the world.

YEAR-ROUND EXHIBITION, 15, RUE LEOPOLDO FROIS

FROM MAY 18, LIVERPOOLMUSEUMS.ORG.UK

MAY 13, CIRCUITCAT.COM

I’ve settled very quickly in Barcelona My teammates have been great. There are a lot of Latin American players in the dressing room – that really helps.

I do miss Liverpool Liverpool is a city with soul, with heart and with character; they are not people who will be beaten.

Things are different now, but also the same Every club and every coach is different – the way they train, the way they prepare for matches. But apart from learning a few new things, it’s also similar in the sense that I’m still playing for a big club under a very intelligent coach, just like I did at Liverpool.

I love the city The fans, the weather and the food are great. It has been very easy to adapt to living here.

My first El Clasico [Barcelona vs. Real Madrid] this month won’t decide the title, but I can’t wait for it Maybe the two clubs are not as close in the league as usual, but it’s still the biggest game in the world and one you dream of playing in when you are growing up. The world will be watching – but ultimately I suppose it’s just a chance to win another three points.

We could have played Liverpool in the Champions League this month That would have been strange, but also quite special – the club will always be close to my heart.

Brazil can win the World Cup this summer There are at least five or six teams who will think the same, but we know we have the ability and players – we just have to make it count when it matters.

Emirates flies twice daily to Barcelona.

BARCELONA VS. REAL MADRID, CAMP NOU, BARCELONA, SPAIN

14 / OPEN SKIES

UAE

A POLYNESIAN RETREAT

A unique property in the heart of Dubai, Lapita has stunning lagoons, amazing restaurants and Dubai’s biggest theme park for company WORDS: Andrew Nagy

IMAGES: Lapita

55.2708° E

DUBAI

25.2048° N

If you were told, as a child, that you weren’t just going to a theme park for the day but were spending an entire holiday at one, there’s every chance that it would have caused a minor breakdown. Young minds are not hardwired to handle such news. With that in mind, it’s probably best to keep any bookings at Lapita reasonably quiet with the family until the last minute.

Nestled in the middle of Dubai Parks and Resorts – a mega theme park that’s home to Motiongate Dubai, Legoland Dubai, Legoland Water Park, Bollywood Parks Dubai and Riverland Dubai – this Polynesian-themed boutique hotel by Marriott offers a tropical island-style escape from the high-octane thrillseeking going on all around it.

Markedly different from anything that you might find in the city, expect contemporary Polynesian design throughout – from its 504 rooms and suites to its five onsite restaurants.

Fans lazily whir below traditional thatched roofs, intricately carved details adorn the walls and authentic voyaging canoes hang from the ceiling. It really does take you out of the Middle East before you’ve even negotiated the lobby.

But Lapita isn’t just for those here on holiday. Experience a decadent Friday at its Daycation brunch – one of the most popular in the city – and kick back with full pool and children’s club access and a huge selection of classic Polynesian dishes and cocktails. Lapita, you see, is for kids of all ages.

LAPITAHOTEL.COM

For more on Dubai’s world-class hotels, listen to the Dubai Hotels podcast on channel 1905 on ice.

16 / OPEN SKIES

THEME YOUR DAY

Take advantage of your unique location and enjoy everything that Dubai Parks and Resorts has to offer. With five interconnecting theme parks making up the resort, there’s no reason that you can’t spend your day being a Ghostbuster, hanging out at the Smurf Village and learning how to make a Bollywood blockbuster.

STAY

OPEN SKIES / 17

USA

ZEN CITY

A sleek and stylish hotel in the biggest party city in the world, the Mandarin Oriental is a gamble that pays off handsomely WORDS: Andrew Nagy

IMAGES: Mandarin Oriental

36.1699° N

115.1398° W

LAS VEGAS

Although it’s located in a prime spot on the Las Vegas Strip, you won’t find any card tables or roulette wheels in this hotel. Not your typical Vegas establishment, the Mandarin Oriental could well be the safest bet in the city.

Perhaps it’s the symbolism of taking the elevator that does it. Lifting you from The Strip to the rarefied elegance of the lobby, it swaps packed streets and stag parties for Chinese art, marble floors and stylishly curved installations in a matter of seconds. Once checked in – a startlingly fast procedure – you’ll find 400 large rooms with a subtle contemporary Asian design.

While you might be in one of

the most exciting cities on the planet, don’t be in too much of a rush to head out. Start the day with a free yoga session, hit the nicely secluded pool for a few lengths and then take high tea (literally) on the 23rd floor. For dinner, you have one of the best restaurants in Las Vegas on site.

Twist is superstar chef Pierre Gagnaire’s only US restaurant, and the contemporary French menu here is something you’ll need to book well in advance for.

Of course, in this city, the party is rarely far away. For those days, we suggest you start in style – in the lobby with a mini bottle of Moët & Chandon from the brand’s only public vending machine in the US. You see this is still Vegas; it’s just the VIP edition.

Discover Las Vegas and over 70 other destinations in the US, Caribbean and Latin America, with Emirates and Jet Blue. Members of Emirates Skywards earn Miles on JetBlue flights. Members of JetBlue’s TrueBlue loyalty programme can also earn points for Emirates-operated flights.

18 / OPEN SKIES

STAY

HEAD DOWNTOWN

Downtown Las Vegas was where the action took place before The Strip even existed. Not the most desirable part of town for many years, the area has been transformed beyond all recognition and is now an essential stop-off on any visit. Use Fremont Street as your centre, but avoid the slightly grotty Fremont Street Experience. Instead try the great museums in the area – The Mob Museum is well worth a visit – hang out at the Container Park and be sure to stop off at Atomic Liquors. The oldest freestanding bar in Vegas, it once counted The Rat Pack, Clint Eastwood and Barbara Streisand as regulars.

OPEN SKIES / 19

UK

A BOUTIQUE ORIGINAL

St Martins Lane is a boutique property in the heart of London that has inspired a thousand imitations, but remains an undisputed icon WORDS: Ali Khaled

IMAGES: Morgans Hotel Group

0.1278° W

LONDON

51.5074° N

If serene minimalism at the heart of London is what you’re after, then few places can match this West End favourite.

Ian Schrager’s St Martins Lane – alongside Morgans Hotel Group’s sister, Sanderson – redefined the notion of boutique hotels when it opened in London in 1999.

The rooms are a study in understatement, all white and angular, with adjustable purple lights adding to the tranquil ambience in the middle of one of London’s busiest areas.

Located on the edge of Covent Garden, and a few minutes’ walk from Soho, there may be many options when it comes to restaurants, cafes and nightspots, but the hotel offers plenty to keep its clients within its own doors.

20 / OPEN SKIES

The Den is a laidback space that gives off a living-room vibe, where you can enjoy a quiet drink or some afternoon tea in the company of a good book or the day’s newspapers. The hotel’s signature restaurant, Asia de Cuba, remains a favourite for visitors, its decoration evoking Havana’s Chinatown, and the menu a fusion of Cuban and Asian cuisine. Finally there’s the dimly lit, atmospheric speakeasy Blind Spot, offering an extensive list of cocktails ‘til the early hours of the morning.

In the years since St Martins Lane changed the hotel scene in London, boutique properties have become part of the West End landscape. Few, however, have come close to capturing the unique vibe that it maintains to this day.

MORGANSHOTELGROUP.COM

LONDON

Emirates operates nine daily flights to London.

Choose from six daily services to London Heathrow and three daily services to London Gatwick. Starting June 8, Emirates will operate an additional daily service to London Stansted.

STAY

THEATRE DISTRICT

St Martins Lane is perfectly located for lovers of the theatre and performing arts. It’s home to the Duke of York’s Theatre, Noël Coward Theatre and the English National Opera at the Coliseum Theatre. And not far from the hotel is London’s famous Shaftesbury Avenue, a street that houses some of the West End’s most famous theatres, such as the Apollo and Queens.

OPEN SKIES / 21

ESSENTIALS

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Running marathons can be a great way to see a new city, and these shoes will help you do it in style

NEW KNIT The newly developed Primeknit composition provides runners with a better fit and some additional support.

THREE TO RUN

These marathons beat the usual road race any day

WELL HEELED The high-tech Fit Counter integrated into the heel means free movement of the Achilles tendon.

1

The Great Wall of China (May 19) This run takes you on 5,164 steps across one of the wonders of the world. It’s hot, it’s humid and it’s tough, but you’re rewarded with stunning views of, and beyond, the wall.

NO SWEAT The ventilation holes used in the original UltraBoost assist the foot’s key sweat zones.

FEATURING Adidas UltraBoost 4.0, US$216 ADIDAS.COM

Emirates flies twice daily to Beijing with the Airbus A380.

22 / OPEN SKIES

THE SHOE THE MARATHON Although the World Marathon Major series has entered its traditional mid-year lull, that’s no reason to put away your running shoes just yet. While the big-six races in Tokyo, Boston, London, Berlin, Chicago and New York get all the plaudits, we prefer a little more adventure on our distance runs.

Whether striding through Big Sur in California, alongside wildlife on the African savannah, or in this month’s Great Wall Marathon in China, you can see the world in style if you love to run.

Of course, this type of caper needs the right kit. Traditionally one of the most comfortable shoes on the market, Adidas’ UltraBoost has now developed even further, thanks to new Primeknit tech on the upper and a Fit Counter integrated into the heel.

Offering a little more power-return for your efforts – and a lot more style – with these shoes, you’ve got race time sorted.

2

Machu Picchu (June 2-10)

One for experienced runners, you’ll negotiate rocky Inca trails, tunnels and steps and will be tested by distance and elevation, but the sight of Machu Picchu at the end is worth it.

3

Niagara Falls (October 14)

This marathon kicks off in the US and ends in Canada. A decent run, with only one real incline. The finish line – with a Niagara Falls backdrop – is a sight to behold.

7 FOR ALL MANKIND ADIDAS ARMANI B A L LY BOSS B O T T E G A V E N E TA BURBERRY CA LV I N K L E I N J E A N S COACH CONVERSE DIANE VON FURSTENBERG DIESEL DOLCE & GABBANA ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ESCADA ETRO FALKE GUCCI HACKETT HOUR PAS S IO N JIMMY CHOO JOOP! LA PERLA LACOSTE LEVI'S LINDT LORO PIANA MARC O'POLO MAX MARA MICHAEL KORS MISSONI MONCLER MÖVE N A PA PIJR I NIKE OAKLEY P E T I T B AT E AU PUMA REEBOK S.OLIVER SAMSONITE SCHIESSER SCHIESSER KIDS SEIDENSTICKER SIGIKID STRELLSON SUNGLASS HUT SUPERDRY SWAROVSKI S WAT C H THE BEAUTY SPOT PERFUMERY THE NORTH FACE

EXCLUSIVE SHOPPING DESTINATION O U T L E T C I T Y. C O M

TIMBERLAND TOD'S T O M TA I L O R TOMMY HILFIGER TORY BURCH VERO MODA

Discover international labels from New York, London and Milan in flagship outlets with award-winning architecture only 30 km away from Stuttgart and 2 hours from Munich, Frankfurt and Zurich.

WINDSOR WMF ZWILLING AND MANY MORE

ROAD RACING REDUX UK

Nostalgia for an iconic series of road races is bubbling up in Birmingham again, with promises to bring motorsport back to the streets of the UK’s second city WORDS: Chistopher Beanland

IMAGES: Jon Jones, Dave Lucas, Terry Scannell

1.8904° W

52.4862° N

BIRMINGHAM

With miles of twisting motorway, sprawling ring roads, complicated car parks and a healthy devotion to car manufacture and motorsport, you could say that Birmingham is the car capital of the UK. England’s second city had the country’s first one-way streets, the first houses with built-in garages, and its National Exhibition Centre (NEC) was, for many years, the home of the British International Motor Show. It was the centre of the British motor manufacturing industry, and home to Rover, Austin, MG, Jaguar, Land Rover and Lucas.

With an industry that was so central to life in the city, it’s hardly surprising that it filtered through 24 / OPEN SKIES

into popular culture. Jonathan Meades made a furiously funny BBC TV film about the roads of ‘Brum’ (as the locals call it) called Heart Bypass, while the writer Jonathan Coe set his novel The Rotters’ Club around a car factory in which his father worked.

However, it was in building miles of motorways in the 1960s and ’70s, from the famous Spaghetti Junction – a looping intertwined stretch of road at Gravelly Hill Interchange – all the way into the city centre itself, that everything changed. Desperate to show off these prized asphalt assets, Birmingham City Council decided that a road race was just what the city required.

This wasn’t exactly new. The

STREET RACE For four years the streets of Birmingham hosted Superprix

idea of holding a motor race in Birmingham had been floating around for two decades, and racing legend Stirling Moss had even obtained permission to hold one in 1972, but the event failed to materialise. Finally, in 1984, the Birmingham Road Race Bill was presented to

DISPATCH

or eat a curry on Ladypool Road, just off the Superprix course.

“It always fascinated me and, bear in mind that this was preinternet, when I could only use my imagination. Years later I found a book on the subject, and as soon as I opened it I couldn’t believe, not only the scale of the race, but also how little the city had documented it. I immediately went home and searched for more information, and when I watched race footage

Birmingham has realised the power of Superprix, and wants to bring the smell of tyres and blistering engine noise back to the streets

Parliament, with approval for a series of races centred around Formula 3000 granted in 1985.

The Birmingham Superprix would run from 1986 to 1990.

Fast-forward more than 30 years and, in 2018, car lovers are not only revelling in those Duran Duran soundtracked memories, they’re

trying to resurrect the race itself.

“My dad is a huge motorsport fan,” says Andy Smallman, a filmmaker born in Birmingham in 1990, the race’s final year. “My younger sister started racing Mini Stox and Dad would tell us about the Superprix every time we’d go racing at Birmingham Wheels

it just reinforced my fascination.

Now I could put it into context: watching future F1 world superstars such as Damon Hill, Nigel Mansell, Eddie Irvine and Mika Häkkinen storm their Formula 3000 cars down the roads I knew so well.”

Now Smallman and his dedicated band of fellow car enthusiasts are documenting the history of the races – and will eventually release a feature-length film telling the tale of this high-octane slice of Birmingham’s automotive history.

“The project is multimedia based and the film is just one part of that,” explains Smallman. “We collect interviews and memories from racing drivers, marshals, officials and the fans. The other side is our archive, where we collect physical and digital pieces of memorabilia, OPEN SKIES / 25

DISPATCH

information, footage and photos so that we can preserve and build a detailed timeline and history of the Superprix for future generations.”

Smallman has worked with fellow Brummies to put out Superprix-branded T-shirts, and

SPAGHETTI JUNCTION

How the world’s most complicated junction prompted Superprix 26 / OPEN SKIES

even a craft beer. “We collaborated with other local independent businesses like Two Towers Brewery, Provide and space.play. co.uk on products such as clothing, craft design and beverages. We’ve also held events and brought

DRIVE TIME Future F1 champion Nigel Mansell and Superprix in action

The original Spaghetti Junction opened in May 1972 and took its name from an article that ran in the Birmingham Evening Mail in 1965, when journalist Roy Smith described plans for the junction as “like a cross between a plate of spaghetti and an unsuccessful attempt at a Staffordshire knot”. Sub-editor Andy Eaglesfield took it a step further, giving the article a Spaghetti Junction headline. The name stuck and now any complex junction around the world worth its curves borrows the title. Taking four to five years to plan – and four to actually build – the original was of so much interest to the community that regular half-day tours ran there, the network of junctions a source of genuine fascination. While navigating it originally caused consternation for drivers, it has eventually become one of the world’s most iconic stretches of road.

all of our resources together for occasions to celebrate the Superprix story, like the Autosport International show at the NEC.” As if all this history wasn’t intriguing enough, the next chapter could be the best of all.

Birmingham has recently realised the power of the Superprix – and wants to bring the smell of tyres and the blistering noise of souped-up engines back to the city’s streets. And the support goes to the very top. The firstever directly elected mayor of the West Midlands, Andy Street, came to power in 2017 – and one of his manifesto pledges was to bring Superprix back to the city.

The intense competition for F1 races probably precludes a full F1 Grand Prix in the mould of the Monaco, Valencia or Singapore street circuits, but perhaps the small but growing Formula E electric car series might be a real possibility in 2019?

“I believe we stand a strong chance,” says Smallman. “The original race was pushed through with immense speed and urgency, going from Parliament to reality within just a few years.

If this became a reality again, I’d love to think at least some parts of the original track would remain in the new course – a fitting tribute to its history.”

Emirates operates twice daily A380 service to Birmingham.

EXPO

UAE

EXPO GOES BACK TO ITS ROOTS

Expo 2020 Dubai is using local ghaf trees to help create a green site filled with the UAE’s native flora WORDS: Craig Durie

55.2708° E

DUBAI

25.2048° N

Expo 2020 Dubai will rely on a very familiar feature of the UAE landscape to help showcase the country’s diverse plant life.

The ghaf tree has been used in the region for generations for a multitude of reasons, including to make shelters and signposts, and even as camel food. The trees can survive for hundreds of years on just 10 litres of water per day. Now, Expo 2020 is transplanting dozens of trees to create a beautiful green site for its millions of visitors.

The initiative is part of Expo 2020’s Jubilee Gardens project, which will celebrate the UAE’s 50th anniversary by taking visitors on a horticultural journey inspired by the country’s diverse landscapes.

By the time Dubai is ready to welcome the world for six months from October 2020, the 4.38 square kilometre Expo site will be home to thousands of other locally sourced plants and trees.

“Not only is the ghaf tree an example of a striking native species that can be used for ornamental

For more on Expo 2020, listen to the podcast on channel 1901 on ice.

28 / OPEN SKIES

purposes,” says Ahmed Al Khatib, Senior Vice President of Real Estate and Delivery, Expo 2020 Dubai. “It has also contributed to the ancient history of human survival in this region and is one of the heroes of the UAE landscape.

“All of the species that form Expo 2020’s green landscape will have an important story to tell, be it about the past or the future.”

Donated by Dubai Municipality, Expo 2020’s ghaf trees are planted and grown in nearby Mushrif Park.

Once mature, they are prepared for transportation – a process that can take up to six months – and relocated to the Expo site, where they will offer an authentic flavour of the UAE’s natural flora for years to come.

EXPO2020DUBAI.COM

30 / OPEN SKIES

NEIGHBOURHOOD

VENUE INDICATOR

HO CHI MINH CITY

SHOPPING

DRINK

CULTURE

FOOD

SPORT

HOTEL

ROAD SAFETY How to cross the street in Vietnam

Stand still and do nothing (panic)

Walk slowly.

Let traffic avoid you

Run across and dodge traffic (panic)

VIETNAM

DISTRICT 3, HO CHI MINH CITY WORDS: S. Hottinger-Behmer

IMAGES: Djinane Alsuwayeh

10.8231° N

106.6297° E

HO CHI MINH

Ho Chi Minh City (which locals still choose to call Saigon) is a play of contrasts, blending a bustling mix of the old and the new. Renovated colonial villas, countless coffee shops, generations of mom-and-pop storefronts, and recently opened bars and boutiques rest in the shadows of a shimmering skyline of newly minted high-rises.

Most of city’s 24 districts are seeing change, but it’s in the relatively tranquil District 3, however, that we see the finest mix of the contemporary and the old, of arts and culture.

It’s also where you can find some calm from the chaos of the city. Adjacent to District 1, the more obvious business and retail concentration, District 3 is quieter and preferred by locals.

In addition to the beautifully dilapidated colonial structures and some of the oldest pagodas in the country, in District 3 you’ll

find the War Remnants Museum, where the American War (as the Vietnamese call it) is chronicled in raw, gory detail; an essential stop for tourists wishing to understand the country’s recent, turbulent history.

Ho Chi Minh City’s food culture is on full display in this neighbourhood. Food is of national pride to the Vietnamese people and dining means consuming with all five senses.

Every other storefront is a dining spot here, from street food to vegetarian restaurants, from BBQ joints to myriad upscale establishments.

To fully capture the sheer scale and impact of Ho Chi Minh City, you’ll need to go high above for jaw-dropping views of the skyline from one of the stylish perches in District 3. This is where you want to stay and concentrate your socialising. Take it all in and ponder what this city may look like in 10 years. It’s sure to be markedly different.

OPEN SKIES / 31

START

1.

TÂN ĐINH PARISH CHURCH

Known as “the Pink Church”, the unexpected and imposing structure stands proudly in District 3 as a reminder of the city’s colonial past. Built by the French in the 1880s, it serves as a point of reference in the neighbourhood, not so much for its curious mixture of Roman, Baroque and Gothic architecture, but for its vivid colour, contrasting sharply with its surroundings.

289 HAI BÀ TRƯNG 32 / OPEN SKIES

A ONE-MINUTE WALK

MUST-VISIT Anybody visiting Ho Chi Minh City really should take a day excursion to see the Củ Chi Tunnels. Made by the Việt Cộng, you’ll see how they lived – and fought – underground during the conflict with the US. Emirates flies non-stop daily to Ho Chi Minh City with the Boeing 777-300ER.

NEIGHBOURHOOD

2.

BÁNH XÈO 46A Located down a narrow passage opposite the iconic Pink Church, it offers a perfect alfresco street-food experience. Bánh xèo is a Vietnamese pancake with various meat and vegetable fillings that you assemble with your fingers, rolling “mini-tacos” and dipping in the tastiest sauce for a fingerlicking good experience.

46A ĐINH CÔNG TRÁNG | +84 28 3824 1110 AN EIGHT-MINUTE TAXI RIDE

SAIGON

It was renamed Ho Chi Minh City – after the communist leader – following the 1955-75 conflict

3.

SALON SAIGON

Housed in one of Ho Chi Minh’s historic culde-sacs in the 1960s home of former American ambassador Henry Cabot Lodge Jr, Salon Saigon is a well-appointed townhouse-cum-arts space. It was founded by collector John Tue Nguyen (a sort of Charles Saatchi of the region), who established the space in homage to contemporary Vietnamese art. Nguyen is passionate about the preservation and promotion of local and international-based Vietnamese artists and cultural events, and this charming two-storey villa doubles as a salon for conferences, talks and lectures.

6D NGÔ THỜI NHIỆM | OPEN TUESDAYS 09:00 – 18:00 ONLY | SALONSAIGON.COM

A FIVEMINUTE WALK OPEN SKIES / 33

4.

CONG TRI

There are a plethora of bric-à-brac stores and tiny boutiques scattered across the neighbourhood selling locally sourced products. Cong Tri, just a stone’s throw away from the War Remnants Museum, on the other hand, is an emporium of high-end, original designs. This chic standalone boutique by Nguyen Cong Tri – recognised as one of Vietnam’s leading fashion designers – is a riot of colourful cocktail dresses and printed daywear for the growing professional set. It’s a compelling designer discovery for the discerning tourist looking for some local style accents while they’re in town.

194 NGUYỄN ĐÌNH CHIỂU | +84 90 378-3292 | NGUYENCONGTRI.COM

A ONEMINUTE WALK

BIKE COUNTRY

There are more than eight million motorbikes in Ho Chi Minh City, the most populous city in Vietnam 34 / OPEN SKIES

5.

WAR REMNANTS MUSEUM

Established in the former US Information Service building, the museum was opened quickly after the fall of Saigon in 1975. Not for the faint-hearted, it features an impactful collection of American military equipment, propaganda posters and journalist photos covering this gruesome chapter of Vietnam’s history, from the conflict’s origins to its lingering aftermath. Avoid the afternoon crowds and make it the first thing on your day’s itinerary.

28 VÕ VĂN TẦN | +84 28 3930 5587 | BAOTANGCHUNGTICHCHIENTRANH.VN

NEIGHBOURHOOD

6.

MOC CAFÉ Coffee shops are dotted around the city and trying a typical Vietnamese cà phê – slowly brewed coffee with condensed milk – is an absolute must. A firm favourite among District 3 residents, Café Moc teems with young Saigonese. This 24-hour eatery is also known for serving one of the city’s best pho (Vietnamese soup).

130A NGUYEN DINH CHIEU | +84 8 6659 5522 | MOC.CAFE

A FIVEMINUTE WALK

A THREE-MINUTE BIKE-TAXI RIDE

7.

SOCIAL CLUB ROOFTOP BAR

High above the rooftops of Saigon’s District 3, the Social Club Rooftop Bar at Hôtel des Arts Saigon is where high society comes to play. With 360-degree views that will blow your socks off, it is the epicentre of this thriving neighbourhood and the perfect place to end a busy day in good company. Take in the sunset during happy hour and then venture down to Saigon Kitchen, one of the city’s most popular restaurants.

SOCIAL CLUB SAIGON AT MGALLERY SOFITEL | 76-78 NGUYỄN THỊ MINH KHAI | +84 28 3989 8888 | HOTELDESARTSSAIGON.COM OPEN SKIES / 35

UAE

THE FOUNDING FATHER

As the UAE marks the 100th anniversary of the birth of its founder and first president, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, we distinguish between Zayed the man and Zayed the leader, whose achievements are already a matter of legend WORDS: Peter Hellyer

IMAGE: Genevieve Chauvel

54.3773° E

24.4539° N

ABU DHABI

As the United Arab Emirates celebrates the Year of Zayed, marking the 100th anniversary of the birth of its founder and first president, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan; the country’s citizens, residents and visitors are able to look around and see the remarkable modern state it has become.

Much has been achieved in the decades since the country was established in 1971, with the UAE now ranking high on a whole range of indices, from development to the happiness of its people. Although Sheikh Zayed – popularly known as ‘Baba Zayed’ (Daddy Zayed) or the ‘Father of the Nation’ – died 14 years ago, in late 2004, he is still recognised as the man primarily responsible for building the country as we know it today.

With the passing of time, however, it becomes increasingly difficult to distinguish between Zayed the man and Zayed the leader whose achievements are now legendary.

He himself never claimed that any achievements were all his own.

Rather, he took pains to acknowledge the roles played by his fellow rulers and the many others behind the creation and growth of the UAE. 36 / OPEN SKIES

One man who saw Sheikh Zayed’s early-years rule at close hand was Archie Lamb, a British political agent in Abu Dhabi from 1965 to 1968, in the years shortly before the formation of the seven-member UAE federation in 1971. A former World War Two fighter pilot and later an ambassador, Lamb provided a poetic description of Zayed – in his dispatches to London – that really illustrated the majesty that the much-loved leader exuded in his life. To Lamb, Zayed was, “The man who had the wind of heaven always blowing through his bisht (cloak).”

One of the reasons 2018 was designated as the Year of Zayed was a recognition of the need to reflect on memories and introduce younger generations to what Sheikh Zayed means to the Emirates. What did he achieve, not simply in terms of presiding over the creation of a modern infrastructure, but in facilitating the development of what he described as the UAE’s most valuable resource: its people? How did he inspire and lead what was,

Five Emirates A380s and five Boeing 777-300ERs with the ‘Year of Zayed’ livery have circled the globe on more than 1,500 flights to date, and will continue to carry its message of inspiration from the UAE’s late founding father throughout 2018.

What is the Year of Zayed?

To celebrate the centennial anniversary of the birth of the UAE’s founding father, 2018 will see 12 months of events to honour the life and legacy of Sheikh Zayed

in 1971, an underdeveloped state – itself an experiment in a new form of governance – through a process that saw dramatic change in population, demography and infrastructure?

How was it that he was able to preserve an enviable degree of social stability and communal harmony during a time when the Middle East was wracked by the turbulence of wars and revolutions?

His success has been ascribed, in part, to his vision for change. His determination to make good use of the financial resources provided from the oil and gas industry and his recognition that, in an increasingly interconnected world, there was a need to benefit from the knowledge and skills of other countries and cultures. His insistence that the country should stand as a beacon of cultural and religious tolerance made it possible for Emiratis to live side by side with expatriates from

THE YEAR OF ZAYED

extension of the past. He who does not know his past cannot live his present and his future, for it is from the past that we learn.”

An early biography of Sheikh Zayed, The Desert Falcon – published 42 years ago – recorded how, in the years before he became Ruler of Abu Dhabi in 1966 and the first UAE President in 1971, he had devoted much thought to the need for change, and to developing the ideas that he would seek to implement when the opportunity arose. A desire to embark on a programme of modern development that had long been lacking, a

nearly 200 nationalities, all of whom have contributed to the building of the nation as we know it today. With more than 40 Christian churches and Hindu and Sikh places of worship in a land whose indigenous citizens are devoutly Muslim, the UAE has become a rare symbol of tolerance in the region. Beyond all of that, Sheikh Zayed was determined that, while looking to the future, the country and its people should always remember, and benefit from, the lessons from its past. In fact, one of his most widely quoted statements is: “History is a continuous chain of events. The present is only an

1

WORDS OF WISDOM Three Sheikh Zayed quotes to consider

On heritage…

“A country is not measured by the size of its area on the map. A country is truly measured by its heritage and culture.”

2

On education and progress…

“The education of our people is a great wealth. We are proud of our educated nation because through knowledge and science we will open the horizons of a glorious future.”

recognition of the importance of education, a commitment to ensure that the society’s full potential could be developed through the empowerment of women as well as of men. These were all part of the plans that he began to implement rapidly from 1966 onwards.

Drawing on his own experience of the time-honoured traditions of tribal consultation and the building of consensus, Sheikh Zayed also worked with the other rulers who, together with him, created the UAE federation. Out of their efforts, and the efforts of those who have come after them, a state that has not only survived but thrived for nearly half a century has emerged. That achievement is even more significant when you consider that, when the UAE was born in 1971, many outside the country predicted that it would not survive too long.

Little more than half a century ago, the UAE was a land of fishermen, farmers, traders and Bedouin.

It was a place lacking hospitals and schools, not far removed from a subsistence economy and just beginning to venture on a tumultuous journey of change and of growth. Today, Emirati space scientists are planning an ambitious mission to Mars. It’s little wonder, then, that some younger Emiratis might find it difficult to imagine and understand the hardships that their parents and grandparents endured.

If the Year of Zayed can fuel their imaginations and provide them with some understanding of “the man who had the wind of heaven always blowing through his bisht”, then it will have surely served its purpose.

3

On leadership…

“The ruler, any ruler, is only there to serve his people and secure for them prosperity and progress. To achieve this, he should live among his people to feel their wishes and know their problems, and this cannot be achieved if he isolates himself from them.”

OPEN SKIES / 37

UAE

MAURO MACCIONI

The Italian restaurateur from New York City talks serving Frank Sinatra, chatting with Richard Nixon, and how his Dubai restaurant might just have the best food in town WORDS: Iain Akerman

IMAGES: Syed Ali

55.2708° E

DUBAI

25.2048° N

“My mother always described me as an avid and adventurous eater, even at a young age,” says Mauro Maccioni, the restaurateur and owner of Le Cirque. “I would eat clams and tripe and innards. Anything.”

It’s early afternoon at Le Cirque at the Ritz-Carlton in Dubai International Financial Centre and Maccioni is talking food. Dover sole, risotto, pasta primavera, his mother’s homemade pizza.

Everything that makes you salivate with anticipation.

“Pasta primavera was always one of my favourites,” he admits.

“They would make it tableside for us at the restaurant in New York.

A cream, Parmesan-based sauce with spring vegetables. To this day, it’s still one of my favourites.

“But my first real experience with food was with my mother.

She is of Tuscan descent, so is my father, and while my father was busy at work she was always cooking great Italian food. It’s one of the reasons why I was so popular with my friends. They would always be over, especially at the weekends. Sunday was pizza day and my mum did a thicker crust.”

Maccioni is heir to a dining dynasty, one filled with glamour and a roll call of Hollywood stars.

Le Cirque is a New York institution founded by his father Sirio in 1974; that rare breed of restaurant that somehow managed to imbed itself into the psyche of a city.

Peter Kaminsky, writing in the New York Magazine in 1997, just as Le Cirque was moving from its original home on East 65th Street to The Palace Hotel, described it as “a temple of haute cuisine and swellegance”. Sirio presided over it with personality and charm.

In many ways Le Cirque at the Ritz-Carlton lives off that heritage.

As you enter, a series of blackand-white photographs adorn the wall immediately to your left, most of which feature an immaculately besuited Sirio with a succession of famous guests. There’s Robert De Niro and Andrea Bocelli, Sylvester Stallone and Kirk Douglas, Julianne Moore and Jennifer Lopez.

Even Queen Sofia of Spain.

“I’m not star-struck easily because I’ve grown up in dining rooms and served the likes of Richard Nixon and Frank Sinatra,” says Maccioni, searching for photographs on his phone as he tells stories. There’s the time that

For more on great dining in Dubai, listen to the Dubai Restaurants podcast on channel 1906 on ice.

38 / OPEN SKIES

De Niro and Bocelli met in Montecatini Terme, Maccioni’s ancestral home, and when the chefs at Le Cirque cooked for Pope John Paul II during his visit to New York in 1995.

“My father immersed us in the restaurant from a young age and we would spend Saturday afternoons there,” he remembers. “My mother would put me in a little bow tie and my father would make sure that we understood the value of work. And on Saturdays, Richard Nixon would always come for lunch – he lived

LUNCH WITH

right across the street – and my father would sit me down with him for five minutes and Nixon would ask, ‘How are you, how’s school and everything?’ Come time to apply for college, I was fortunate enough to have a nice recommendation letter from him, which I think might have helped me.”

It’s been a year since Le Cirque first opened its doors in Dubai and Maccioni is essentially in town to check up on things. Reviews have been favourable but not ecstatic, while trade has been modest

“Come my time to apply for college, I was fortunate enough to have a nice recommendation letter from Richard Nixon, which I think might have helped me” but nevertheless promising.

“We’re fine-tuning to this very day, finding our way in the market,” admits Maccioni, who runs the family business with his two brothers, Marco and Mario, although the latter has recently taken time off.

“As much as the brand is very social

– it was always a seen-and-be-seen sort of restaurant in New York (we’re trying to build that over here too), Le Cirque is also about the menu. And I’m confident to say that I believe we have some of the best food in Dubai.

“Now the question is, how much are people focusing on their food rather than their environment.

We’re building that slowly…

We started modestly and we’re trying to build a crescendo.”

The head chef is Wesley Berghoff, previously at Marina Social, while a new operations manager, Martin OPEN SKIES / 39

Chaffanjon, has been brought on board to fine-tune the running of the restaurant. Meanwhile, just outside, a new footbridge connecting Le Cirque to the heart of DIFC is under construction. When completed it will greatly increase accessibility.

“I say it with humility, but I’ve eaten around town and Wesley’s food is up there with some of the best,” asserts Maccioni. “And we think, little by little, that fact will shine with the public as we continue to build. There is very, very good food across town, but we want our food to be an extra focus.” True to Le Cirque’s hybrid heritage, Italian

“We’re fine-tuning to this very day, finding our way in the market… I’m confident to say that I believe we have some of the best food in Dubai” 40 / OPEN SKIES

THE BILL 1 SCALLOPS ESCABECHE WITH SMOKED ALMOND, CARROT AND ORANGE DRESSING (US$25) 1 SEARED SEA BASS WITH POTATO FONDANT, FENNEL, SALSIFY AND BOUILLABAISSE (US$50)

TOTAL: US$75

dishes are sprinkled throughout what is a predominantly French menu. There’s octopus carpaccio, lobster risotto, spaghetti primavera, and potato and herb gnocchi.

My starter, however, is scallops escabeche with smoked almond, carrot and orange dressing.

“It was always this bizarre thing.

We have this French restaurant but the owner is Italian,” says Maccioni with a smile. “But that’s also what

made Le Cirque unique. It was a French restaurant with extremely New York-style flavours, Italian food and a dining-room personality.

From the very beginning, while the menu was predominantly French, there was still a beef carpaccio or pasta on the menu, and that was sort of ground-breaking back then.”

Le Cirque Dubai is one of a growing number of outposts for the family business, which include the long-running Le Cirque at The Bellagio Las Vegas and Le Cirque at The Leela Palace New Delhi.

There’s also the family’s Italian restaurant brand, Circo, which has operations in Abu Dhabi and Dallas.

Negotiations are currently underway to open a Le Cirque in Florida, with ambitions for London too.

Yet these haven’t been the easiest of times for the brand. Last March the New York restaurant and its sister brand Circo filed

LUNCH WITH

“My father immersed us in the restaurant and we would spend Saturday afternoons there. He would make sure that we understood the value of hard work”

for Chapter 11 bankruptcy, with Maccioni stating at the time that the action had been taken to protect the restaurants’ leases.

Yet by the time the last diners had left Le Cirque on New Year’s Eve, both restaurants had closed.

The bankruptcy filing revealed that the family owed between US$500,000 and US$1 million to up to 100 creditors. Le Cirque’s head chef, Tom Valenti, had also quit

when the bankruptcy was filed.

“We had to reorganise ourselves financially,” admits Maccioni. “We got caught in a moment that was difficult. But it was a moment for us to be able to release ourselves from our leases. At Le Cirque we want to take it back a little bit to its original dimensions and location.

It’s time for us to downsize, to do something a little more precious, smaller, in a better location.”

The mains arrive. Seared sea bass with potato fondant, fennel salsify and bouillabaisse. For Maccioni, duck à l’orange with a side order of asparagus.

When the new Le Cirque opens in New York next year it will be closer to its spiritual home near Madison Avenue. “Our original neighbourhood,” as Maccioni calls it. Most recently Le Cirque had been located in the Bloomberg Tower on East 58th Street.

Whichever way you look at it, it’s been a tough couple of years.

“I would be lying to you to say that it wasn’t a challenging moment,” he says. “But we’re quite happy to have weathered it, to have tied up some knots, and we have an opportunity to sort of start afresh again, especially in New York. And we’re excited that we have a new opening for our Circo brand in Dallas. So, you know, there are ups and downs and you have to just weather them.

“But I wouldn’t trade it for anything. As much as we’ve talked of how difficult it is, I consider myself a very fortunate individual. Like anything in business, nothing is easy.”

OPEN SKIES / 41

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COLUMN

SPAIN

DRIVE TIME

A road trip through Europe can be fraught with danger – particularly when Dom Joly’s behind the wheel IMAGE: Adam Patterson

2.1734° E

41.3851° N

BARCELONA

I am currently on a road trip across Europe in search of the perfect fish soup. My journey has taken me from Bilbao to San Sebastian, over to Marseilles and Nice before heading back down to Barcelona. For those who are interested, a restaurant called Miramar in the Old Port area of Marseilles won the competition, but this column is not about fish soup – it’s about road rage.

Every road trip I have ever been on has resulted in some incident or another. I would call it bad luck, my wife has other theories.

Suffice to say that, although I’m English, I was brought up driving in Lebanon and southern parts of Europe, meaning that both my style

and tone of driving can be easily misunderstood. I’ve been shot at by a Serbian policeman, attacked by a man on the Amalfi Coast who looked like a member of the Mafia, and don’t get me started on what happened in Turkey when someone threw their dead grandmother’s body at my car.

This trip was no different. I arrived in Barcelona – a city I know and love – after a long and tiring drive and was looking forward to checking into one of my favourite hotels on Earth – the Mandarin Oriental. I was about a mile away when a large man in a bulky silver Mercedes tried to push me out of For more humour from Dom Joly, check out Trigger Happy TV, showing on Comedy TV on ice.

my lane and, when I didn’t give way, got very incensed. He chased me, beeping and flashing his lights until I’d had enough. I parked my car and got out to find out what the problem was. The driver looked like a Bulgarian sumo wrestler and squared up to me, screaming and jabbing away with his fingers in that uniquely Mediterranean style.

Although I’m basically a coward, I’m a very proud one, so refuse to back down in these situations.

Fortunately, it didn’t come to blows and the man eventually squeezed back into his car and sped off with a fair amount of anger.

Eventually I made it to the welcoming doors of the Mandarin, had a shower, got changed and called an Uber to head back out. Five minutes later a bulky silver Mercedes pulled up. Not really concentrating, I got in. It was only a little further down the road that I looked in the mirror to recognise my aggressive nemesis from earlier in the day. He spotted me at roughly the same time.

Inwardly, I panicked. I imagined the doors suddenly locking, the windows blacking out and being whisked off to some underground bunker.

Instead a weird thing happened: there was a long pause and then he started laughing. I did too – with relief and at the absurdity of the situation. Eventually we shook hands and apologised to each other for being overly Mediterranean. I even gave him a very decent tip. As I said, I adore Barcelona.

OPEN SKIES / 43

Enjoy extraordinary events #InAbuDhabi!

Abu Dhabi is an eventful destination with an action-packed calendar featuring international music, heritage and cultural festivals, sports, gourmet, high profile business conferences and vibrant trade fairs

JUN 2018

Abu Dhabi Summer Season Jun - Aug

OCT

JUL

SEP

Liwa Date Festival

OCT

Abu Dhabi International Boat Show Oct 17 - 20

N OV

Abu Dhabi Art Nov 14 - 17

D EC

N OV

Formula 2 Powerboat Championship Nov 22 - 23

D EC

D EC

Abu Dhabi Food Festival

D EC

Dar Al Zain Festival

Al Dhafra Family Village Dec 13 - 17

MAR

FEB

Red Bull Air Race Championship

ITU World Triathlon Abu Dhabi 2019

ADIPEC 2018 Nov 12 - 15

N OV

2018 Formula 1 Etihad Airways AD Grand Prix Nov 22 - 25

D EC

Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival

D EC

D EC

NYE Countdown Village

Taste of Abu Dhabi

D EC

National Day Celebrations Dec 2

N OV

Abu Dhabi Classics 2018-2019 Oct - May 2019

Al Ain Cultural Programme Oct - Apr 2019

Traditional Handicrafts Festival

ADIHEX 2018 Oct 2 - 6

Al Ain Book Fair

OCT

N OV

N OV

OCT

Liwa International Festival – Mureeb Dune

D EC

Mubadala World Tennis Championship

Al Dhafra Festival

JA N 2 0 1 9

Abu Dhabi HSBC Golf Championship

MAR

Abu Dhabi Festival 2019

JA N

Sultan Bin Zayed Heritage Festival 2019 Jan - Feb

MAR

Mother of the Nation Festival 2019

abudhabievents Available on

abudhabievents.ae

HOW DUBAI WAS BUILT

FEATURES HOW DUBAI WAS BUILT • BACK ON TRACK

HOW THEY BUILT A CITY Ever wondered how Dubai’s superstructures were built?

Read on to see how a city rose from the desert.

Turn over for more

OPEN SKIES / 45

HOW DUBAI WAS BUILT

HOW DUBAI WA S B U I L T From architectural wonders and seven-star hotels, to world recordbreakers that push the boundaries of possibility, Dubai has never shied away from feats of engineering prowess. Here we look at what it took to build some of those landmarks, and how they operate on a daily basis WORDS: Iain Akerman

BURJ AL ARAB

The story of Dubai’s original superstar building 55.2708° E

DUBAI

25.2048° N

An iconic symbol of Dubai, the Burj Al Arab, Jumeirah is an architectural marvel. It is also one of the world’s most photographed superstructures.

Set on its own manmade island 280 metres off Dubai’s coastline, it was designed by the architect Tom Wright to resemble the billowing sail of an Arabian dhow and, at 321 metres high, is the tallest all-suite hotel in the world.

First opened on December 1, 1999, its construction involved 3,000 companies and contractors, 250 designers, and 3,500 workmen

on site at any given time. It took two years to reclaim the island and a further three to complete the building, which was constructed to reflect Dubai’s ambition to become one of the most culturally diverse and dynamic cities in the world.

Inside, approximately 1,790 square metres of 24-karat gold leaf embellishes the interior, while 10 million mosaic tiles line the two pools at The Terrace, the hotel’s luxury leisure facility. There are also more than 30 types of Statuario marble covering nearly 24,000 square metres of wall and flooring.

It takes around 1,600 members

FACTS 3,000

Companies and contractors involved in its total build

3,500

Workmen on site at any one time

1,790

Square metres of gold leaf embellishing the interior

High tea

The best way to visit Burj Al Arab is to enjoy afternoon tea at Skyview Bar on the 27th floor

48 / OPEN SKIES

of staff, ranging from Michelinstarred chefs and skilled mixologists to florists and private butlers, to run the hotel, which features three aquariums, nine dining and entertainment venues, 202 suites, a spa and leisure facilities.

“The same level of care, design and attention that has been put into developing and maintaining the architectural marvel goes into the running of the hotel,” says Scott Murray, the hotel’s manager. “From being chauffeur driven in one of our luxurious Rolls-Royce Phantoms across the famed bridge leading to the hotel, through to the bespoke care taken at each of the 202 suites by our team of dedicated butlers; the impeccable service offered at restaurants such as Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara and Scape Restaurant & Lounge, to the beach and pool experience at The Terrace, each touchpoint that guests experience at Burj Al Arab, Jumeirah is a uniquely special one.”

HOW DUBAI WAS BUILT

Viewfinder

Try the interactive experience on levels 124 and 125, enjoying one of the best views in the city in the process

BURJ KHALIFA

How they made the world’s tallest building If the Burj Al Arab is an architectural marvel, the Burj Khalifa is an architectural miracle. Standing at 200plus stories, of which 160 are habitable, it is the tallest building in the world and one of the greatest feats of engineering.

Designed by Chicago-based Skidmore, Owings and Merrill and developed by Emaar Properties, it took 22 million man-hours to build, and during its peak construction had over 12,000 professionals and skilled workers on site every day.

In total, 330,000 cubic metres of concrete, 39,000 tonnes of steel reinforcement, 103,000 square metres of glass, and 15,500

FACTS 22

Million manhours to build

24,000 Windows to clean

4

Months to clean them

square metres of embossed stainless steel were used in its construction. The end result is a stunning vertical city at the heart of Downtown Dubai.

There’s the world’s highest observation deck and outdoor terrace (on level 148), the world’s highest swimming pool (on level 76), and At.Mosphere, the world’s highest fine dining restaurant (on level 122).

At its base is the Armani Hotel Dubai, while the rest of this monument to human achievement is made up of 172,000 square metres of residential and over 27,800 square metres of office space.

Maintaining such a structure is no small task. The tower’s water system requires an average of 946,000 litres of water per day, and at peak times requires cooling equivalent to that of 10,000 tonnes

of melting ice. There are also 18 specialised machines and around 36 trained workers designated to cleaning the building’s 24,000 windows. In all, it takes four months to clean the entire exterior of the building.

Interestingly, the building’s management team are helped

by Dubai’s hot and humid climate, which, combined with the building’s cooling system, creates a significant amount of condensation. This water is collected and drained in a separate piping system and amounts to about 56 million litres of water per year, equal to roughly 20 Olympic-sized swimming pools. Meanwhile, the tower’s peak electrical demand is 36mW, equal to about 360,000 bulbs of 100 watts operating simultaneously.

OPEN SKIES / 49

DUBAI WATER CANAL

How they built one of Dubai’s newest attractions

Water taxi

Avoid the traffic and see the city via a water taxi at one of their stations throughout the city

As urban transformations go, the building of Dubai Water Canal takes some beating. Where else in the world would the elevation of three existing roads – including Dubai’s main artery, Sheikh Zayed Road – be shrugged off as a mere inconvenience? Yet that’s exactly what was necessary to complete one of the city’s newest landmarks.

Running for 3.2 kilometres and built at a cost of Dhs2.7 billion, the canal is essentially an extension of Dubai Creek, linking Business Bay to the Arabian Gulf through Safa Park and Jumeirah. To achieve this the four main contractors and 70 sub-contractors had to excavate three million cubic metres of sand, use 150,000 tonnes of cement, and utilise 25,000 tonnes of steel reinforcement.

The canal was then flooded in 50 / OPEN SKIES

RTA.AE

FACTS 2.7

Billion dollars, the total cost

3

Million cubic metres of sand excavated to create the canal

a complex six-stage operation, allowing 7.8 million cubic metres of water into the waterway. In total, the operation was executed over a five-week period.

The canal, which is between 80 and 120 metres wide at any given location, has added 6.4

kilometres of waterfront to Dubai and includes a 12-kilometre cycle track, a three-kilometre jogging track, three pedestrian bridges, and nine marine stations. It even has its very own waterfall cascading from the bridge over Sheikh Zayed Road.

HOW DUBAI WAS BUILT

Show time

Catch The Dubai Fountain show daily at 1pm, 1.30pm (1.30pm and 2pm on Friday) and every 30 minutes from 6-11pm

Controlling the creative aspect of the shows is a dedicated team of choreographers, with each new show starting life as a computer simulation in the US before being downloaded to the fountain in Dubai for fine-tuning. The entire process can take between two and four weeks, with everything from Michael Jackson’s Thriller to the theme song to The Magnificent Seven forming the basis of a show.

The fountain itself sits atop a network of tunnels and equipment rooms, with an array of logic control, electrical switching, power and valve panels controlling the entire operation. This electrical equipment, coupled with miles of piping, comes together to create the final show, which is overseen by the main control room located on the top floor of The Dubai Mall.

THE FOUNTAIN SITS ATOP A NETWORK OF TUNNELS AND EQUIPMENT ROOMS THAT CONTROL THE ENTIRE OPERATION

THE DUBAI FOUNTAIN

The world’s largest choreographed fountain system At the base of the Burj Khalifa is another Emaar masterpiece: The Dubai Fountain. The tallest performing fountain in the world, with 344 underwater robots and 1,137 shooters, it is a spectacular water, light and musical experience at the centre of Downtown Dubai.

Set in the 30-acre Burj Lake and designed by Californian-based

WET, the fountain’s powerful water nozzles can shoot water up to 140 metres in the air, while its unique design of five circles of varying sizes and two arcs enable it to be choreographed to different music.

At any given moment 83,000 litres of water will be in the air, with 25 colour projectors providing a full spectrum of colour.

FACTS 83,000

Litres of water in the air at any one time

140

Height in metres of the tallest jet of water

2-4

Weeks it can take to perfect

“The spectacular shows on the new LED panel of Burj Khalifa and the performances of The Dubai Fountain are among the most popular tourist attractions in the city today,” says Ahmad Al Falasi, executive director of group operations at Emaar Properties. “Both involve extensive collaboration and planning, and our focus is on offering visitors a truly memorable experience.

“Every show involves hundreds of people working in coordination to ensure that every aspect is considered – right from design to execution. These performances also add to the civic pride of our nation, underlining the appeal of Dubai in offering compelling attractions that welcome the world.”

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PALM JUMEIRAH

The story of an archipelago like no other One of the world’s largest manmade islands, Palm Jumeirah is constructed in the shape of a date palm and effectively doubled the coastline of Dubai when it was completed in 2006. It took 120 million cubic metres of sand and seven million tonnes of rock to create, and spans 1,400 acres. To put that in perspective, the island is four times the size of London’s Hyde Park and one-and-a-half times bigger than Central Park in New York.

The master developer tasked with transforming Palm Jumeirah from a concept into reality was

FACTS 30,000

Number of people living on Palm Jumeirah

120

Million cubic metres of sand that created it

7

Million tonnes of rock it also needed to become a reality

Nakheel, and in doing so it has created one of the most famous and sought-after landmark destinations in the world. Now home to more than 30,000 people, it includes luxury residences, hotels, resorts, retail outlets, and recreation and leisure facilities. All of which need constant maintenance.

Significantly, the island, which hosts resorts such as Atlantis The Palm and Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, is very much a work in progress.

Upcoming Nakheel developments include The Palm Tower, a 52-storey residential and hotel complex, and Palm 360, a twin-tower hotel and residential development comprising Raffles The Palm Dubai Hotel and

Raffles Residences Palm360. The Palm Tower is directly connected to Nakheel Mall, which is also under construction and due for completion next year.

“Palm Jumeirah is a shining of example of the creativity, innovation and forward-thinking that Dubai is known for,” says Ali Rashid Lootah, Nakheel’s chairman. “A globallyrecognised landmark and one of the most sought-after addresses in the world, Palm Jumeirah has set new standards in master planning, design and engineering.

We continue to enhance the island by bringing more new and unique projects to serve its growing number of residents and visitors.”

Take flight

For the best views, take a paramotor flight over Palm Jumeirah SKYHUBPARAMOTORS.AE

Discover more about Dubai on ice. The Emirates World podcasts start on channel 1900 and cover the city’s newest attractions and more.

52 / OPEN SKIES

HOW DUBAI WAS BUILT

Enhanced experience

Augmented and virtual reality elements will be used to enhance the Expo 2020 experience

EXPO 2020

How they’re making the city of the future This is a 24-hour a day job for Ahmed Al Khatib, senior vicepresident of real estate and delivery at Expo 2020. He has two mobile phones, neither of which leave his side – and it’s not surprising. Al Khatib is responsible for the overall construction of the site, which, in 30 months’ time, will host the first World Expo to ever be held in the Middle East, Africa and South Asia.

Construction at the 4.38 square kilometre site in Dubai South, not far from Al Maktoum

International Airport, is ramping up and will peak by the end of the year, with 35,000 construction workers on site. To date, more than 14.5 million work hours have been completed, with 6,100 cubic metres of concrete being laid per week and 85 kilometres of pipe already laid for the site’s infrastructure works. The path of the Dubai Metro Route 2020 link is also now clearly visible.

Expo 2020’s three petalshaped themed districts are also beginning to take shape.

FACTS 14.5

Million work hours completed to date

35,000

Construction workers on site

34.5

Billion dollars, the estimated economic boost to the UAE from Expo 2020

These districts will be integral to the site and will converge at its centrepiece – the 150-metrewide, 69-metre-tall domed Al Wasl Plaza. There will also be separate themed pavilions, including the Santiago Calatrava-designed UAE pavilion, modelled on the wings of a falcon, and Grimshaw Architects’ Sustainability pavilion.

The latter will be able to capture energy from the sun and fresh water from humid air.

“We are on track to ensure all shell and core construction is completed by October 2019, a full year ahead of the Expo doors opening,” says Al Khatib.

“Successfully delivering a masterplan of this magnitude is a complex task, but Expo 2020 has assembled some of the world’s best design, construction and urban planning experts to ensure that the site is ready to welcome the world on October 20, 2020.”

To date, Expo 2020 has awarded 3,039 contracts – both construction and non-construction – with small and medium-sized enterprises continuing to represent a priority, winning 1,717 of those awarded.

With 25 million visitors forecast to attend the six-month event, the UAE expects to receive an estimated economic boost of $34.5 billion.

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MOTIONGATE DUBAI

The inside story of the ultimate theme park

Theme nights

If you’re a huge theme park lover, why not stay on site at Lapita hotel (see page 16)

For anyone unaccustomed to theme parks, especially integrated ones, the sheer enormity of Dubai Parks and Resorts is something to behold. Built on 2.85 million square metres of land at a cost of US$3.5 billion, it features more than 100 rides and attractions, with the entire destination connected by Riverland Dubai, a multi-themed dining and retail district.

Within Dubai Parks and Resorts, the Hollywood-inspired Motiongate Dubai is the flagship. With 27 key 54 / OPEN SKIES

FACTS 3.5

Billion dollars it cost to build Motiongate Dubai

21

Number of indoor rides, from the 27 in total

58

Metres, the drop from the Zombieland Blast-off ride

rides and attractions inspired by 13 of Hollywood’s most memorable live action and animated films (21 of which are indoors). It’s a theme park lover’s dream. There’s Dragon Gliders, a multimedia suspended roller coaster within DreamWorks; Madagascar Mad Pursuit, a roller coaster that propels visitors forward at up to 85km/h upon launch; and Zombieland Blastoff, a 58-metre drop and shot tower identical to that in the movie.

Located just off Sheikh Zayed

Road, midway between Dubai International Airport and Abu Dhabi International Airport, the park as a whole recorded 851,000 visits during the first quarter of 2018, an increase of 45 per cent on the first quarter of 2017 and an increase of 55,000 compared with the last quarter of 2017. As such, an army of staff is required to run the destination which, as part of its full-service offering, is enhanced with smart technology, smart queuing and shaded walkways.

HOW DUBAI WAS BUILT

Beach day

Once complete, combine a day at Ain Dubai with an afternoon on The Beach at JBR

FACTS 9,000

Tonnes of steel required to build the wheel

698

Residential apartments in 10 towers

12

Guests able to eat at the fine dining pod

AIN DUBAI

The latest addition to Dubai’s iconic skyline If you’ve been a regular visitor to Jumeirah Beach Residence over the course of the past year, you’ll have watched with interest as a new edition to Dubai’s skyline slowly but surely takes shape. The

Ain Dubai observation wheel will be the largest of its kind in the world when it’s completed later this year. In fact, it already stands at a world-beating height of over 210 metres, with the eight sections of

the wheel’s rim now in place.

Forming the centrepiece of the new Bluewaters Island development

by Meraas, the final structure will include around 9,000 tonnes of steel, almost 25 per cent more than the amount used to construct the Eiffel Tower in Paris. With 48 passenger capsules manufactured in Switzerland, some of which will be ‘fine-dining’ pods that can seat up to 12 guests, and 360-degree views of the city, Ain Dubai is sure to be an instant hit.

When complete, the manmade island will include distinctive retail, residential, hospitality and entertainment zones and will be connected to the shore by a multimode transport system.

There will be 10 residential towers, featuring 698 apartments and 17 townhouses, and a 265-metre pedestrian bridge that will link the island with The Beach at JBR. There will also be close to 200 retail and dining concepts.

OPEN SKIES / 55

Let’s celebrate the original Margarita

a margarita made without cointreau is not worth its salt Margaret Sames Cointreau has been inseparable from margarita since its creation in 1948 Acapulco, Mexico. Margaret “Margarita” Sames, a wealthy American socialite known for hosting notoriously lavish parties with extravagant twists, created a new cocktail for one of her soirées by mixing two of her favourite spirits: tequila and Cointreau, a liqueur crafted using sweet and bitter orange peel essence.

An immediate success, the drink came to be known as a “margarita” and has gone on to become a staple in bars and homes alike.

70

TH

THIS YEAR, MARKS THE ANNIVERSARY OF THIS ICONIC DRINK. LET’S CELEBRATE THE ORIGINAL MARGARITA!

THE ORIGINAL MARGARITA

3 cl Cointreau 5 cl Blanco Tequila 2 cl Fresh Lime Juice

1. Combine all ingredients in a shaker and add ice 2. Shake and strain into a salt-rimmed rocks glass 3. Garnish with a lime wheel

BACK ON TRACK WORDS AND IMAGES: Sarah Freeman

Cambodia’s mothballed Royal Railway is back in service after 14 years, and putting the country’s lesser-visited southern region firmly on the map

11.5564° N

104.9282° E

PHNOM PENH

Chugging along at 53kmph, the 1960s rolling stock of Cambodia’s Royal Railway is certainly no bullet train. But who wants to get to their destination quickly anyway? To move with any more speed would be an insult to the glorious countryside neatly framed by its windows, and defeat the object of cross-country train travel in the first place.

The Royal Railway passenger service reopened only 18 months ago after a 14-year hiatus, and connects its capital, Phnom Penh, to the coastal city of Sihanoukville. The southern line is 60 / OPEN SKIES

one of two tracks that traverse a total of 612km along the western flank of the country, terminating at the northern border town of Poipet. Built under colonial French rule in 1930s, the Phnom Penh to Battambang northern line remains out of action, save for a rickety bamboo ‘nori train’, which rattles along the tracks at 32kmph over a 7km stretch.

After independence, France, West Germany and China bankrolled the southern stretch of track to ferry goods to Sihanoukville port – now a gateway to the country’s tropical islands and the mangrove jungles of Ream National Park. For the

SHORT CUT The railway connects Phnom Penh with Sihanoukville on the coast. It turned a 28-day journey into a 6-8-hour one

road- and plane-weary traveller, the train serves as a more exhilarating way to explore Cambodia beyond Siem Reap’s magnificient but tourist sullied Angkor Wat temples.

For Cambodians, the journey is bittersweet – a poignant reminder of its troubled past and a symbol of its brighter future.

A word of warning – the six- to eight-hour journey (which would originally take a staggering 28 days) is at the mercy of trackloitering Brahman cows and the occasional engineering hitch, which calls for unexpected stops.

That’s OK, though, it’s an excuse to stock up on the fried shrimp fritters sold by the roadside.

BACK ON TRACK

EXCESS BAGGAGE They say trains go where cars cannot, but this isn’t entirely true of Cambodia’s Royal Railway. For US$5 you can load your bike onto the train’s flatbed car or pay out US$14 to put your four wheels onto the Blue Train (left).

LIFE ON TRACK Life trackside is never dull.

Decorative red remorques (tuk-tuks), oxcarts and bike-commuting schoolchildren converge at dusty crossings, vendors hurriedly move out of the way of oncoming trains, and saffron-robed monks casually stroll alongside the tracks.

THE DETAILS ROUTE: PHNOM PENH – TAKEO – KAMPOT – SIHANOUKVILLE PRICE: BETWEEN US$4 AND US$7 FREQUENCY: FOUR TIMES A WEEK (FRIDAYS, WEEKENDS AND MONDAYS) IN BOTH DIRECTIONS

PHNOM PENH DURATION: 6-8 HOURS APPROX. DISTANCE: 266KM CAPACITY: ALTERNATING YELLOW AND BLUE TRAINS CARRY UP TO 200 PASSENGERS EACH ROYAL-RAILWAY.COM

Emirates operates a service to Phnom Penh via Yangon.

OPEN SKIES / 61

STATION STREET FOOD There is a steady supply of mama noodles on board, but for a taste of authentic Cambodian food, hold out for one of the station stops.

Kampot’s coffee ladies congregate under its rusting pyramid roof, selling steamed meat buns, spicy fried sweet corn kernels and skewers of pretty much everything – from giant prawns to pineapple. You’ll also find an iced-caffeine hit, which comes in handy during summer.

VINTAGE FLAIR The air-conditioned carriages ooze retro charm, from the stencilpunched seat numbers and pull-down windows to the original padded blue vinyl seats.

62 / OPEN SKIES

BACK ON TRACK

COLONIAL CHARM Built in the early 1930s, the imposing French colonial-style station is one of Phnom Penh’s art deco treasures. Check out the vintage weighing scales and antique Tissot station clock housed beneath the arches of its echoing main hall.

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FROM CITY TO BEACH

Three places to visit in Cambodia

1. PHNOM PENH’S COMMEMORATIVE SITES Pay your respects at the Choeung Ek Killing Fields memorial (20 minutes out of the city centre) and S-21 Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum – both sobering sites that chronicle the country’s tragic history.

2. KAMPOT’S PEPPER PLANTATIONS Lauded by big-name chefs across the globe, Kampot pepper has a geographical indication status that makes it no ordinary condiment. To witness the king of spices harvested by hand, hop on a tuk-tuk and visit one of the fantastic organic pepper plantations, such as Sothy’s Pepper Farm.

3. SIHANOUKVILLE’S SOUTHERN ISLANDS Reached via a four- to five-hour boat trip from the mainland, the uninhabited (and as yet undeveloped) jungle-blanketed Koh Tang island boasts a wealth of marine life and the country’s only wreck dives.

It’s also the last official battle site of the Vietnam War.

SEA VIEWS In the final two-hour leg of the journey, the crosscountry route carves through lush forests, giving way to glimpses of the sea as it approaches Sihanoukville’s palmfringed beaches.

64 / OPEN SKIES

VILLAGE LIFE After slowly chugging through Phnom Penh’s suburbs, where thatched and bamboo homes cling to the railway line, the landscape opens up to rural scenes of rice harvesters, duck farms and canal fishermen.

BACK ON TRACK

REACHING NEW HEIGHTS The soaring Bokor Mountains come into view as the train approaches Kampot, whereafter the terrain transforms into crenelated, jungle-clad hills.

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BRIEFING

NEWS • INSIDE EMIRATES • DESTINATION • UAE SMART GATE • VISA • ROUTE MAP • FLEET

FIVE MORE YEARS Emirates and Qantas have renewed their partnership for another five years.

Turn over for more news from Emirates

OPEN SKIES / 67

NEWS

Five-year renewal for Emirates and Qantas partnership

EMIRATES AND QANTAS have welcomed the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission’s (ACCC) re-authorisation of their alliance as they embark on another five-year partnership.

The continuation of the joint business, which was announced in August last year and will last until 2023, will mean expanded services, greater schedule choice, increased frequent-flyer benefits and an on-going commitment to the development of world-class products and travel experiences.

“The ACCC’s re-authorisation of our joint business is an important milestone in helping us continue to 68 / OPEN SKIES

deliver benefits for travellers and Australian tourism for the next five years,” said Qantas International’s CEO Alison Webster. “The evolution of our partnership reflects changes in customer demand and will allow us to leverage the latest aircraft technology and maximise new routes.”

Thierry Antinori, Emirates’ Executive Vice President and Chief Commercial Officer, said: “We look forward to progressing on the plans that will take our successful partnership to its next phase. Together, we offer travellers access to even more destinations on our joint network, more convenient flight

choices, and frequent flyer benefits.

“Over the next five years, we will continue to work closely with our partner Qantas to deliver benefits for our customers, for Australia’s air transport connectivity, and for both airlines.”

“Almost 35 million members of Emirates Skywards and Qantas Frequent Flyer enjoy the partnership’s benefits, not only through earning Miles but by redeeming on each other’s vast route networks,” added Barry Brown, Emirates’ Divisional Vice President for Australasia.

“The one-stop European network from Dubai also continues to win praise for the ease and connectivity it provides.”

NEWS

Second daily service to Prague

Another accolade for Emirates EMIRATES HAS BEEN NAMED ‘Airline of the Year’ at the 2018 Air Transport Awards.

The airline picked up the prestigious award thanks to the evaluation of a jury comprised of executives and experts from different sectors within the aviation industry.

Thierry Antinori, Executive Vice President and Chief Commercial Officer for Emirates, received the award on behalf of the airline.

“We are honoured to be recognised by the Air Transport Awards for our commitment to excellence,” said Antinori. “We have a strong customer-

centric focus across the airline to deliver the best possible experience both in the air and on the ground by continually investing in a modern fleet, product innovations and service enhancements.

“We are also embracing technology across our operations to meet and exceed evolving consumer preferences.

This award is a testament to the hard work and efforts of staff across the airline that make a difference every day by taking care of our customers and keeping our service levels high.”

The world’s largest international airline, Emirates’ network spans more than 155 destinations in 85 countries.

EMIRATES WILL ADD a second daily service between Dubai and Prague.

The service will commence from July 1 to meet the increasing demand for both inbound and outbound travel and will complement the existing flight operated by an Emirates A380.

The second daily flight will be operated by a Boeing 777-300ER with a capacity of 360 seats, boosting inbound tourism through the additional 262,800 seats a year it will provide. It will have a three-class configuration offering eight Private Suites in First Class, 42 lie-flat seats in Business and 310 spacious seats in Economy.

The flight will improve Prague’s connectivity to and from a range of destinations in the Emirates network, including Far East favourites Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam, Phuket in Thailand, and Phnom Penh in Cambodia.

Flight EK137 will leave Dubai at 15.30 and arrive in Prague at 19.55. The return flight EK138 will leave Prague at 21.35 and arrive in Dubai at 05.30 the following day.

New product for rapid transport of aircraft parts EMIRATES SKYCARGO HAS LAUNCHED Emirates AOG, a new airfreight product designed for transporting aircraft parts quickly across the globe.

Emirates AOG is built to respond to the needs of airlines wanting to service grounded aircraft by rapidly dispatching critical aircraft components unavailable at destination. The core aim of Emirates AOG is to transport parts on the quickest possible flight connection without compromising on the quality of handling and customer service.

Special features include late cut-off 70 / OPEN SKIES

time for cargo acceptance at origin, expedited delivery at destination, and track and trace visibility of the consignment during transportation and priority handling.

“Emirates SkyCargo is committed to constantly improving our service levels and introducing new products that can respond to our customers’ needs,” said Nabil Sultan, Emirates Divisional Senior Vice President, Cargo. “Emirates AOG builds on a number of our strengths – our extensive network spanning more than 155 destinations across six

continents, our frequency of operations to destinations, as well as our own vast experience in transporting aircraft parts for Emirates’ fleet.”

Emirates SkyCargo is the freight division of Emirates.

Enjoy your flight With up to 3,500 channels of entertainment, Wi-Fi connectivity and a host of other industry-leading tech, here’s how Emirates changed your inflight experience forever

1989

Introduced the Airshow moving map channel to allow passengers to see their journey.

1992

First airline to install personal video systems in all seats in all classes throughout its fleet – the First Class seats had video cassette players.

1993

First airline to equip an entire Airbus fleet with in-flight phones.

1996

New Boeing 777 aircraft delivered.

It featured 17 video channels, 22 radio channels and two external cameras beaming pictures of takeoff, landing and en-route scenery directly to the cabin screens and every seat television monitor.

1999

New Airbus A330-200 delivered. It featured video cassette players in Business Class seats. We were the first airline to offer this service in both First and Business Class.

72 / OPEN SKIES

SETTING A WI-FI RECORD Emirates recently set a new record with over 1 million Wi-Fi connections made on board its flights in March alone. The highest data usage from a single passenger was made by an Emirates Skywards member who stayed connected throughout their flight from Dubai to Johannesburg, consuming 4.9GB of complimentary data.

INSIDE EMIRATES

2004

On the A340-500, Emirates introduces Wi-Fi hotspots to allow customers to check email from their own laptops.

2006

Personal in-seat email and SMS installed throughout the fleet, in all classes.

2007

Emirates worked with Walt Disney Studios Motion Pictures to introduce Closed Captions, the technology used by the hard of hearing, for the first time in inflight entertainment.

2008

First airline to allow passengers to use their own mobile phone for calls and SMS in collaboration with AeroMobile.

2011

Emirates launches Wi-Fi internet access on the A380 in conjunction with OnAir.

2012

First mobile phone service on an A380 in the world.

2014

First airline to offer a total of 500 films on board.

10 YEARS OF ONBOARD CALLS Emirates is celebrating 10 years of enabling mobile phone use on board its aircraft. The inaugural phone call was made on March 20, 2008 on Emirates flight EK751 from Dubai to Casablanca. Since then over 2.8 million calls have been made, 60 per cent of which were made from the aircraft, while over a million calls were answered by passengers travelling on Emirates.

TODAY

More than 98 per cent of the fleet is equipped with Wi-Fi, and everyone on board enjoys 20mb worth of free online access – with Emirates Skywards members enjoying further special privileges. There are now up to 3,500 channels of on demand entertainment, up to 700 movies and 90 kids’ channels. Emirates has been named ‘World’s Best Airline Inflight Entertainment’ at the SKYTRAX World Airline Awards for 13 consecutive years.

OPEN SKIES / 73

EAST LONDON

From June 8, Emirates will add Stansted to its comprehensive London service. Enjoy our guide to its close-at-hand cool neighbour IF YOU A FOLLOW A STRAIGHT LINE down the M11 from London Stansted Airport you’ll eventually hit the East End of London – that fabled home of jellied eels, pie and mash and, now at least, Shoreditch hipsters.

It’s hard to dislodge the sometimes mythical image of the East End of London, and its history is one of colour and darkness. Read Jack London’s The People of the Abyss for a glimpse into the past.

Yet the East End of old has largely disappeared.

So too, for the most part, have its customs and traditional eateries. In their stead are fashionable markets and museums, galleries and gardens, trendy neighbourhoods and the culinary wonders of a multicultural society.

There are the curry houses and vintage clothing stores of Brick Lane, the boutiques and food joints of the Old Truman Brewery, the antiques of Old Spitalfields Market, the frills of Petticoat Lane, the colour and aroma of Columbia Road Flower Market, the cafes and restaurants of Shoreditch and Hoxton, and the nightlife of the once down-at-heel Dalston.

As with the rest of London, there is an overabundance of things to see and do. It’s not so much a question of what you want to see, but what you can afford to miss.

Flight EK33 departs Dubai at 09.30, and arrives in London Stansted at 14.10. The return flight EK34 departs London Stansted at 21.10 and arrives in Dubai at 07.05 the following day.

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DESTINATION

PIDGIN

F COOKE

TYPING ROOM

pidginlondon.com

+44 20 7729 7718

typingroom.com

ACE HOTEL

THE HOXTON

THE CURTAIN

acehotel.com

thehoxton.com

thecurtain.com

With a menu that changes weekly and no dish that’s ever repeated, this small restaurant (there are only 28 seats) in Hackney has been winning plaudits left, right and centre.

Although described as modern British cuisine, it has a taste for the wonderful and serves a set fourcourse menu.

Hipster to the core, the Shoreditch outpost of the Ace Hotel is a stone’s throw from the shops, bars, restaurants, cafés and nightlife of East London’s premier creative district. Expect co-working spaces, record players in each room, a vast lobby bar and coffee shop, and the kind of creative atmosphere it’s hard to find elsewhere in the city.

The traditional food of London’s poor, pie and mash shops have become a rarity in recent years. Yet a few remain. Amongst the oldest and best is F Cooke in Hoxton or Broadway Market.

The food is simple: essentially steak or steak and kidney pie with mashed potato and a parsley sauce liquor. Just delicious.

The Hoxton has been around since 2006 and has managed to hold its own as newcomers have encroached on its territory. With a great location and in striking distance of the city, its epicentre is the Hoxton Grill, which occupies the ground-floor lobby and constitutes the main communal space. Expect more than a touch of classic East London cool.

Located, as the name would suggest, in the old typing room of the Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green, this East London gem is run by executive chef Lee Westcott.

Using local and seasonal ingredients, he creates innovative modern European dishes. Dinner is either a three- or fivecourse tasting menu.

This one is another US import – this time from New York hotelier Michael Achenbaum. But The Curtain is not just a hotel, this is a members’ club too.

With 120 rooms, a rooftop pool, and 6,000 square feet of event space, Achenbaum means business. Opened only last year, it has undoubtedly ratcheted up the style levels even further.

OLD SPITALFIELDS MARKET

COLUMBIA ROAD FLOWER MARKET

DENNIS SEVERS’ HOUSE

oldspitalfieldsmarket.com

columbiaroad.info

dennissevershouse. co.uk

London’s oldest market, it’s worth visiting for the architecture alone.

Part bazaar, part food court, you can picture it in its Victorian heyday, filled with Dickensian characters and a kaleidoscope of traders. A covered market, Sundays are the busiest. There’s also a record fair on the first and third Fridays of the month.

If colour, aroma and a gentle stroll are what you’re after, then head to Bethnal Green and the Columbia Road Flower Market on any given Sunday.

From 8am until around 3pm, the road is transformed into an oasis of brightly coloured foliage, with everything from plants and shrubs to bulbs and freshly cut flowers at very reasonable prices

Located in Folgate Street, this ‘stilllife museum’ is an absolute trip. Restored

by Dennis Severs, who lived there between 1979 and 1999, each room portrays the lives of a family of Huguenot silkweavers from 1724 to the dawn of the 20th century. All rooms are arranged to appear as if the occupants have just left.

OPEN SKIES / 75

Be Smart!

Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

Using UAE Smart Gate is easy

1

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned.

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the card slot.

OK!

3

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE SMART GUIDE

Go through the open gate, stand on the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim.

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register for Smart Gate access, just spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer and that’s it. Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you have landed.

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT

Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures, across all three terminals at DXB. 76 / OPEN SKIES

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: •

Machine-readable passports from the above countries • •

E-Gate cards

Emirates ID cards

VISA GUIDE

Guide to US customs & immigration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle-free as possible.

Customs Declaration Form

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESTA FACTS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, denied or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE FOR THE VISA WAIVER*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* **

78 / OPEN SKIES

Subject to change Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Program.

UAE SMART GUIDE

Comfort in the air

To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

Smart Traveller DRINK PLENTY OF WATER

Rehydrate with water or juices. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

WEAR GLASSES

Cabin air is drier than normal, so swap contact lenses for glasses.

USE SKIN MOISTURISER

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY

Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about travelling, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT

Allow yourself plenty of time for comfortable check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under stress.

Once through to departures, try and relax as much as possible.

Apply a good-quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

DURING THE FLIGHT KEEP MOVING

Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.

MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE

Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

SHARPS BOXES

Sharps boxes are available on board all Emirates flights for safe disposal of medical equipment.

Ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE

Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

Quarantine Rules to follow on arrival AUSTRALIA Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take care when completing your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

80 / OPEN SKIES

JAPAN Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if you have recently been to a livestock farm; are bringing livestock products into Japan; or if your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, head to the counter in baggage claim to speak with the animal quarantine officer.

HONOUR THE LIFE AND LEGACY OF THE

UAE’S FOUNDING FATHER

2018

YEAR OF ZAYED A V A I L A B L E I N A L L L E A D I N G B O O K S T O R E S A N D AT B O O K S A R A B I A . C O M Published with the support and encouragement of

www.motivatepublishing.com

NEW ROUTES

Routes shown are as of time of going to press

GLOBAL ROUTES

82 / OPEN SKIES

Emirates Newark: non-stop daily service starts June 1 London Stansted: daily service starts June 8 Istanbul Sabiha Gรถkรงen: daily service resumes June 8 Santiago: five times weekly service via Sรฃo Paulo starts July 5 flydubai Catania: daily service starts June 13 Qabala: four times weekly service starts June 14 Kutaisi: three times weekly service starts June 14 Thessaloniki: three times weekly service starts June 15 Aqaba: four times weekly service starts June 16 Batumi: daily service starts June 16 Helsinki: daily service starts October 11

KEY Emirates flydubai

ROUTE MAP

TRAVEL TO ADDITIONAL DESTINATIONS WITH OUR CODESHARE PARTNERS

Visit emirates.com for full details on our travel partners

OPEN SKIES / 83

*Suspended

With 22 codeshare partners in 25 countries (21 airlines and an air/ rail codeshare arrangement with France’s SNCF/TGV Air), Emirates has even more flight options, effectively expanding its network by over 300 destinations.

Routes shown are as of time of going to press

*Suspended

KEY

Emirates

flydubai

MIDDLE EAST AFRICA

84 / OPEN SKIES

ROUTE MAP

ASIA & PACIFIC EUROPE & CENTRAL ASIA

OPEN SKIES / 85

ROUTE MAP

AMERICAS KEY

Routes shown are as of time of going to press

Freighter destinations

86 / OPEN SKIES

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES SIX HOSPITALS, OVER 20 CLINICS AND MORE THAN 700 INPATIENT BEDS ACROSS DUBAI, ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY www.mediclinic.ae MOH MH52817-30.9.18

Emirates Fleet

Our fleet of 269 aircraft includes 256 passenger aircraft and 13 SkyCargo aircraft

This month:

AIRBUS A380-800

1 arriving

104 IN FLEET All aircraft

up to 3,500+

Up to 489-615 passengers. Range: 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m

20+ aircraft

BOEING 777-300ER 138 IN FLEET All aircraft up to 3,500+

100+ aircraft

Up to 354-428 passengers. Range: 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-200LR For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

10 IN FLEET All aircraft

3,000+

Up to 266-302 passengers. Range: 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

88 / OPEN SKIES

FLEET

HERE’S WHAT CONNECTIVITY, ENTERTAINMENT AND SERVICES ARE AVAILABLE ON BOARD EACH AIRCRAFT TYPE

Live TV, news & sport

Wi-Fi

Mobile phone

Data roaming

Number of channels

First Class Shower Spa

*Onboard lounge

**In-seat power

USB port

In-seat telephone

* First Class and Business Class; **Available in all rows in Economy Class, and in all seats in First Class and Business Class

BOEING 777-300

This month:

1 retiring

3 IN FLEET All aircraft

1,900+

Up to 364 passengers. Range: 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

AIRBUS A319

1 IN FLEET

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 777F 13 IN FLEET

Range: 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door, which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

OPEN SKIES / 89

Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press

Up to 19 passengers. Range: 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m

CELEBRITY DIRECTIONS

Chris Evans’

GUIDE TO BOSTON

Each month, the great and the good curate a travel itinerary exclusively for Open Skies. This month, Captain America on the capital of Massachusetts

INTERVIEW: Andrew Nagy

71.0589° W

BOSTON

42.3601° N

It’s kind of obvious to point out, but The Freedom Trail is going to be a good place to start your visit to Boston. It doesn’t take that long to walk it all and on your way you’re going to see a lot of places that have historical relevance to the whole country.

You can’t visit this city and not try clam chowder. Legal Seafood is a very well known place – it started years ago as a fish market – and it has some of the best seafood you can find.

If you’re looking for an evening out, well Boston obviously has a big Irish community. Your problem isn’t going to be finding an Irish pub, but deciding which one you go to. And these are real Irish pubs – not the kind that stick a shamrock on the front and call themselves Irish. Actually, you know Samuel Adams is brewed in Boston, right? It’s part of The Boston Beer Company. Maybe go and grab a Samuel Adams, maybe grab two, maybe you don’t go home that night.

If you’re looking to clear your head the following day, you should head for Waterfront Park – which believe it or not is on the water. It’s a really nice park and they have these great food trucks where you can grab lunch and eat it on the harbour.

If you’re visiting with family and have older kids, you should definitely take them to one of the city’s sporting venues. Over the last decade Boston has excelled at sports. The Celtics have won the NBA Finals, The Red Sox have won the World Series, and my beloved Patriots have won The Super Bowl. It’s been a good time to be a sports fan in Boston.

One more tip? People might say I am a little biased, but Boston in autumn is for me the most beautiful city in the world. It’s my favourite place at the best time of year. If you get to choose when to visit, I totally recommend coming during that part of the year.

THE DETAILS WALK The Freedom Trail RESTAURANT Legal Seafood

SPORTS The Celtics/Red Sox/Patriots TIPPLE Samuel Adams

RELAX Waterfront Park SEASON Autumn

Emirates operates a non-stop daily service to Boston with the Boeing 777-300ER.

90 / OPEN SKIES

BOSTON