Open Skies | September 2015

Man, Japan’s changed everything

From tech and science…

Sometimes it just makes me want to sing!

…To movies and culture

WHY JAPAN RULES

Editor-in-ChiEf Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor EditoriaL dirECtor grouP Editor SEnior Editor digitaL / Print dESignEr digitaL aniMator Sub Editor EditoriaL aSSiStant

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Andrew Nagy andrew.nagy@motivate.ae Ralph Mancao ralph@motivate.ae Surajit Dutta surajit@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae

ContributorS

Marina Chetner, Gemma Correll, Mark Eveleigh, Daniel Huffman, Jamie Knights, Kaye Martindale, Gareth Rees, Rebecca Rees, Sandra Tinari, Stuart Turton. Cover: Nathalia Sabransky ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae gEnEraL ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar ProduCtion ManagEr R Murali Krishnan

grouP SaLES dirECtor Craig L. W. Wagstaff craig.wagstaff @motivate.ae

grouP SaLES ManagEr Jaya Balakrishnan jaya@motivate.ae

PubLiShEr Martin Balmer martin.balmer @motivate.ae

SEnior SaLES ManagEr Shruti Srivastava shruti.srivastava@ motivate.ae

rEgionaL ManagEr abu dhabi Imane Eddinari Imane@motivate.ae

dEPuty SaLES ManagEr Amar Kamath EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Hannah Burden Hamer arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Andy Grant WEbSitE emirates.com InternatIonal MedIa representatIves auStraLia/nEW ZEaLand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au bELgiuM and LuXEMbourg M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com China Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 gErMany IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, w.jaeger@imv-media.com hong Kong/MaLaySia/thaiLand Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, hemant@sonneymedia.com india Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, ravi@mediastar.co.in JaPan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, all@tandem-inc.com nEthErLandS giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, giovanni@giO-media.nl PaKiStan D&S International News Agency; Tel +92 3235345727, dnsnewsagency@gmail.com SWitZErLand, franCE/itaLy & SPain IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imm-international.com turKEy Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr uK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com uSa Totem Brand Stories; Tel +1 4168475100, nicole.mullin@tc.tc Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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E D I T O R ’ S

L E T T E R

ON THE COVER

ANDREW NAGY

W

hen we decided on Japan for our September cover, the original idea, that had evolved through various meetings, Whatsapp chats and weekend conversations was to look at how the nation had taken Western culture, twisted it, mashed it up, and sent it back out into the world in far better shape than it had gone in. It seemed quite obvious, really.

On closer examination, however, we discovered that Japan hadn’t taken Western culture and made it better ; it actually had invented the majority of it in the first place.

Even the things that hadn’t originated there it could take indirect credit for, thanks to a domino rally-type effect leading from something it had made in the first place.

Take the Walkman for instance: as you’ll read in Stuar t Tur ton’s feature on p66, this was created simply so the head of Sony could listen to music whenever he flew. However from this came, not only the minturisation movement that ultimately lead to the iPod, Phone or Pad no doubt residing in your travel bag (let’s face it, it’s all three isn’t it?),

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but also to a fitness boom that would reverberate around the globe.

To examine all of this first hand I took a recent trip to Tokyo. If you follow me on social media you’d be forgiven for thinking that the place revolves around a man pushing a pram with roughly 20 cats in it – Japan leads the world when it comes to crazy too – but the reality was one of the most friendly, stylish, and exciting cities I’d ever had the pleasure to visit.

There are a million and one reasons why it should enjoy a favoured position on your Bucket List. From your first moment there to your last, whether that’s watching the cosplay inhabitants of Tokyo’s famous Takeshita Dori Street or jumping on the bullet train to the leafy beauty of Kyoto, it’s a countr y that shouts for your attention. So go with an open mind and prepare to be both shocked and awed in equal measure.

Enjoy the issue.

WHY JAPAN RULES This month we asked the hugely talented graphic artist Nathalia Sabransky to help us illustrate our lead story on Japan. And what better way to show the country’s global influence than through the medium of one of its finest exports: manga.

NOW AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD

“WE REALISED THAT JAPAN HADN’T JUST IMPROVED WESTERN CULTURE, IT HAD INVENTED MUCH OF IT”

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LOOK OUT FOR THIS ICON ON EACH STORY IN OPEN SKIES FOR AN INSIGHT INTO THE WORLD OF EMIRATES

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C O N T E N T S

FRONT

18 28 30 33 40 Experience

Flashback

Entrepreneur

Lunch With

Stay

46 57 Neighbourhood

Local Knowledge

MAIN

66 78 92 How Japan Changed The World

The Gondoliers

Walking The Hill-Tribe Path

BRIEFING

104 112 114 116 118 Emirates News

Inside Emirates

Destination

Comfort

120 122 128 130 UAE Smart Gate

Route Map

The Fleet

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Knowledge

Visas, Quick Connect & Quarantine Information

C O N T R I B U T O R S

SEPTEMBER Some of the people who helped create this issue of Open Skies GEOFF BROKATE

MARINA CHETNER

MARK EVELEIGH

JAMIE KNIGHTS

Geoff is an Australian photographer based in the UK. This month he went to Venice to discover the secrets behind the most famous men (and now women) of the city – the gondoliers.

Marina is an Australian-born writer based in Los Angeles.

This month she went to New York City and holed up at the rather splendid Quin Hotel – now one of the city’s finest.

Six nerve-wracking hours dangling from a frayed wire in a Venezuelan cable-car sent Mark into free-fall on a career as a travel photojournalist.

Currently based in Indonesia, he spends time, this month, with Thailand’s hill-tribes.

Jamie has written for and edited travel and hospitality magazines for the last decade.

He is now based in Cornwall.

This month he writes on the glamour of the Venice Film Festival and the historic Highland Games.

“Twenty years ago I hitchhiked through Thailand’s Golden Triangle as a backpacker and stayed in a remote Akha village. I became enchanted by the countless hill-tribes and was delighted to return.“

“As a Cornishman I love anything that celebrates Celtic culture. Throw caber tossing and haggis in and you have a truly unique event, making the Highland Games in Scotland such a special experience.”

“I have always been fascinated with the artisan tradition; people using their hands and centuries old techniques to make a living.

Understanding the mysteries behind the gondola only enhanced the wonder of Venice.”

“It’s hard to tear yourself away from the top-floor terrace rooms at The Quin. I could’ve spent all day on the outdoor space photographing the matchbox-like yellow cabs below as well as the gargantuan skyscrapers that have taken over Midtown Manhattan.”

GARETH REES

REBECCA REES

SANDRA TINARI

STUART TURTON

Gareth is a UK-based freelance writer with a repertoire ranging from food to travel and celebrity profiles, including Tony Blair’s spin doctor Alastair Campbell, and football legend Pele. This month he lunched with the economist and author, Ha-Joon Chang.

Rebecca is a UK-based photographer whose work has appeared in titles including the Financial Times and Brownbook. She has also worked with Gap, Bentley and Maserati. This month she shot the neighbourhood of Peckham in London.

Sandra is an Australian freelance journalist and photographer, based in Dubai.

This month she wrote about not only Stereo Arcade at JBR, but also the Dubai Butterfly Garden, which she was quite taken by.

Stuart is a freelance journalist specialising in travel and technology. He spends a lot of time going in the wrong direction, grumbling at smartphones and trying to remember where he left his keys. This month he writes on the influence of Tokyo and also explains how Dubai works.

“I loved Ha-Joon Chang’s 23 Things They Don’t Tell You About Capitalism and Economics: The User’s Guide and I’ve wanted to interview him ever since. Our lunch didn’t disappoint.”

“I lived in London for three years so I know it well, but Peckham wasn’t on my radar back then.

It’s exploded in the last few years, and I really enjoyed having the chance to explore it.”

“I was really surprised by my reaction to the enchanting Dubai Butterfly Garden. I couldn’t shake the word ‘magical’ from my head.

I just was struck by a pervading sense of... happiness.”

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“Tokyo’s a brilliant city, but I genuinely had no idea how far its influence on Western culture extended. It turns out it pretty much invented modern living.”

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SAVE THE DATE 18 – 21 November 2015 Manarat Al Saadiyat Saadiyat Cultural District MODERN. CONTEMPORARY. ABU DHABI ART. Abu Dhabi Art offers a multi-disciplinary experience combining an art fair with a diverse public engagement programme which includes art, talks and sensational events.

Carefully curated content focused on unique experiences The Highland Games

Lunch With

Stay

Local Knowledge

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FRONT

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September 2 – 12

Venice international Film FestiVal V e n i c e , i t a ly

Led once again by Alberto Barbera, head to the festival to witness cinema promoted as art, entertainment and an industry, while promising retrospectives and tributes to the leading lights of cinema. Let there be no mistake, Venice is more than capable of providing stars and film launches to rival Cannes and Toronto.

Past cur tain raisers have included the delightful Oscar-winning Birdman and the breath-taking Gravity, so Everest, a true story starring Jake Gyllenhaal taking on the infamous peak, has a lot to live up to. Didn’t manage to get a ticket to

the headline movie? No problem, as there is an abundance of exciting and intriguing films throughout the festival.

Kristen Stewar t is starring in Equals, set in a future where emotions no longer exist, a far cr y from her most famous role in the Twilight series, while Idris Elba plays a warlord leading child soldiers in Beasts Of No Nation.

Many of the films are competing for the Golden Lion prize, as always, with Academy Award nominations at the back of the mind.

And while the films are the main draw, be sure to enjoy the fantastic

venues. As if the setting of Venice wasn’t stirring enough, the film screenings are being held in the Palazzo del Cinema with its Sala Grande that boasts 1,036 seats and Sala Pasinetti with just under 100 seats.

Sala Darsena, PalaBiennale and the Palazzo del Casinò are also hosting, each with their own ambience and impeccable sense of Italian style.

So pick your films, decide on your winner, and embrace the joy of film in this special city. labiennale.org

Currently Emirates flies to three destinations in Italy – Venice, Milan and Rome. That will increase to four cities served on November 3, with the addition of daily service to Bologna.

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E x p E r i E n c E

September 4 – 19

The highland games Scotland, UK

Originating some 300 years ago, the spirit of competition of the Highland Games was forged in the often fierce rivalry between the various Scottish clans.

Through the ages the gatherings developed to become a heady mixture of Scottish culture, exceptional entertainment and incredible feats of strength and dexterity. It’s even said that they were an influence on Baron Pierre de Coubertin as he planned his revival of the Olympic Games in 1896.

Now forming a series of events – there are five in September – the games are split up into categories. ‘Heavy events’

includes throwing the hammer, tossing the caber (it’s all about style not distance), putting the shot and tug o’ war, while ‘light events’ represents track and field disciplines. But you will soon discover that it’s not just brawn that dominates the games – the dancing and piping competitions draw people from all over the world to demonstrate their skills. It makes for a heady mixture, witnessing the tartan-clad competitors perform.

The games vary in size and location across the season, but are all very much a family day out, with entertainment for children. Often able to partake in their

own competitions, it ensures all ages can easily enter the spirit of the games.

As you would expect, there are also plenty of places to sample the famous Scottish fare – think wild game and, of course, haggis, so be adventurous and wash it down with a glass of their worldfamous fire water.

Finally, keep an eye out for a celebrity in the crowds. The games require a chieftain and on occasion a famous face lands the role, such as Star Wars’ Ewan McGregor or, perhaps slightly less excitingly, the singer Susan Boyle. shga.co.uk

Emirates operates twice daily non-stop service to Scotland’s Glasgow Airport. Last year Emirates became the first international airline to open a dedicated lounge at Glasgow Airport. The lounge opening marked the airline’s 10th year of service to the Scottish city.

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WORDS: JAMIE KNIGHTS IMAGE: CORBIS

ENJOy THE HEADy MIxTuRE Of SCOTTISH CuLTuRE, ENTERTAINMENT AND INCREDIBLE fEATS Of STRENGTH AND DExTERITy AT THIS MONTH’S highland games

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September 21 – 26

Hajj

Hejaz, Saudi arabia

Out of all pillars of Islam, the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca is probably the most physically trying and certainly one that follows most closely in the footsteps of the Prophet Mohammed (PBUH). It was in Mecca that he was born and it was there that he returned after years of exile. It was also from Mount Arafat, during his one and only Hajj trip, that he delivered his last timeless words to Muslims: “Oh Muslims, your lives, dignities, and wealth are as sacred and inviolable as this holy pilgrimage day.” My trip was not merely about fulfilling one of the five constructs of being a Muslim, however,

but also about heeding an inner calling to be closer to God and to self-purify.

Before I flew to Mecca, I joined a group of fellow travellers assembled by the tour operator to learn the rituals.

It was a humbling experience as the group consisted of people from different backgrounds, ages, ethnicities and careers.

A sense of common objective created a close support group as we conducted the various acts of Hajj. Whether at the initial arrival to Kaaba, the camping in Mena ahead of the holy day in Mount Arafat and evening at Mozadalafa, the three nights camp afterwards at Mena,

the symbolic stoning of the devil, or the departure Tawaf around the Kaaba, the puritan spirit that prevailed rendered what would otherwise be a very tiring experience into an enjoyable and highly spiritual one.

Hajj wasn’t just a trip of worship but also an happy, memorable and unconventional journey. Despite the fatigue that hit me upon my return, the majesty of the location blending holiness with histor y, the huge congregation and sense of renewal and connection with God made Hajj a truly unique journey of a lifetime.

Emirates flies daily to Prince Mohammad Bin Abdulaziz Airport in Medina. Medina is one of four Emirates destinations in Saudi Arabia; there are also daily services to Jeddah, Riyadh and Dammam.

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September 23 – 26

Dubai Music Week Dubai, uaE

If there’s one thing that Dubai has in spades, it’s celebrity pulling power, and if you discount the hot summer months, barely a week goes by without a headline act or two playing live in the city. That’s why we should all expect big things from this month’s Dubai Music Week.

If last year’s event is anything to go by, it’s not just the acts performing that you’ll have to look out for; it’s also those coming to speak at the lectures coinciding with it all. Legendary music producer Quincy Jones was the big name speaker last year and I remember being told of a separate, smaller, event where he was also guest of

honour. Just after he’d arrived, his press person casually mentioned that he’d asked if his friend could also come along – his friend turned out to be second man on the moon, Buzz Aldrin. Dubai doesn’t really do ordinary, does it?

The concerts and guest speakers make up two of the four parts of Dubai Music Week, with masterclasses and an interactive entertainment village completing the Dubai World Trade Centre line-up.

While the speakers for this year’s events – as well as two more headline acts – are yet to be confirmed, what we do know at time of print is that 30 Seconds To Mars

and Ellie Goulding will perform.

The former – fronted by Oscar winner, Jared Leto – have headlined the world’s biggest festivals, sold out gigs wherever they’ve played and have a dozen MTV awards and four studio albums to their name. Meanwhile, the latter has sold more than 15 million singles worldwide.

While both are set to cause a stir – particularly 30 Seconds To Mars, who cancelled an earlier gig in the region – if experience is anything to go by, the later acts could well be even bigger. This, remember, is a city that knows how to put on a show. dubaimusicweek.ae

On ice you can listen to the UK No. 1 Hits from every year from 1952 until today. On A380s and most 777s, just enter the year you want to hear using the channel entry keypad. For more details, refer to the ice guide in your seat pocket.

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September 29 – OctOber 6

Paris Fashion Week Paris, France

Forget the trainer trend, this month the Stan Smiths have been relegated to the back of the wardrobe in favour of ver tiginous heels, while jeans have been cast aside for something far more impractical – think sequins, feathers and look-at-me headpieces. Why? Well, enter Paris Fashion Week.

For most, Paris Fashion Week is the ultimate ending to a chic journey from New York to London and Milan. Those suffering from fashion fatigue seek solace in shows from fashion giants such as Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Lanvin to bring the season to a very stylish close.

It’s not only on the catwalks where trends emerge; these days what you wear to the shows is just as impor tant as the shows themselves. Gone are the days of a uniform of black; instead, show-goers and celebrity attendees pay homage to the shows they’re attending wearing bold catwalk looks and cause something of a street-style photographer frenzy outside. Of course, this now means many outfit changes throughout the day, not to mention extra looks for Paris’ infamous post-show par ties in the capital’s most beautiful venues.

If you’re not lucky enough to be

sitting front-row, you can still enjoy the spectacle as shows take place all over the city. Head to cool concept store Colette for their chic pop-ups to catch sight of many of the industr y’s heavyweights, or enjoy a pain au chocolat at Karl Lagerfeld’s favourite haunt Café de Flore for a glimpse at the Kaiser himself. If it is power couples you’re after, head to luxur y shopping street Avenue Montaigne’s restaurant L’Avenue where the likes of Beyonce and Jay-Z, and Kim and Kanye have been known to dine. modeaparis.com

If you’re into fashion, check out Lifestyle TV on ice Digital Widescreen, home to fashion channels including Fashion One, E! and Video Fashion.

Plus, the hit movie The Devil Wears Prada is showing in Film Club.

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ROAD TRIP JACK KEROUAC PUBLISHES THE SEMINAL BEAT CULTURE NOVEL THAT WOULD INFLUENCE A GENERATION OF AMERICAN ROAD TRIPS As Jack Kerouac and his flatmate, Joyce Johnson, eagerly scanned the evening edition of The New York Times, their eyes dar ted from page to page, line to line, until they eventually found their intended target – the very first review of Kerouac’s second novel, On The Road. The appraisal, written by Gilber t Millstein, read like this: “The most beautifully executed, the clearest and the most impor tant utterance yet made by the generation Kerouac himself named years ago as ‘beat’, and whose principal avatar he is.” It left Kerouac, even hours later, shaking his head in disbelief. Not at the praise, but at the fact he didn’t feel happier about it.

In the immediate, worse was to follow with a slew of negative criticism of a novel and author that would eventually be cited, almost exclusively, in iconic terms.

On The Road centered around Kerouac’s own travel experiences and was a story of cross-countr y wanderings, the main character, Sal Paradise, based on Kerouac and his companion, the free-spirited Dean Moriar ty, based on the legendar y Beat character, Neal Cassady.

Cassady was a huge influence on Kerouac, with a rambling 1,000-word letter he sent him being the inspiration behind a complete change in style.

In the early ’50s, after several drafts, Kerouac still wasn’t happy with his novel. However, Cassady’s note gave him an idea. The novel should be written as if a letter from a friend, with a free-flowing style similar to the jazz from the era it represented. From that point, he wrote the entire novel in just three weeks on a 120-feet scroll of tracing paper (pictured).

As Joyce and Kerouac returned to the flat after reading that first review, and the writer got his head down for some much needed rest, Joyce noted, “Jack lay down, obscure for the last time in his life. The ringing phone woke him the next morning, and he was famous.”

Emirates flies to ten cities in the US: Seattle, Washington DC, New York, Boston, Dallas, Houston, Chicago, San Francisco, Los Angeles and Orlando.

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LEGENDARY TRAVELS ROUTE 66 REMAINS A CLASSIC GLIMPSE INTO AMERICANA Completed in 1926, Route 66 was the first highway of its kind and the 3,940-kilometre road was designed to connect LA to Chicago and all the rural America in-between.

Initially used during the migration west following the Dust Bowl of the 1930s, Main Street America – as it became known – helped support economies by way of the trade it brought into town particularly in the late ’40s. By 1956, however, the road was officially declassified thanks to President Eisenhower’s Interstate Highway Act. However, the parts of the road that remain (there’s roughly 85 percent left) have been designated a National Scenic Byway, meaning that this iconic road trip remains fair game for your bucket-list.

E n t r E p r E n E u r

CLAIRE DE ROUEN BOOKS CHARING CROSS ROAD, LONDON

Words: GArETH rEEs IMAGE: rEBECCA rEEs | 30 |

E N T R E P R E N E U R

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE To eat like a local…

St John Restaurant is one of the best in London and is boldly British.

The menu often includes black pudding, bone marrow and chicken livers – so is perfect for those who want to imagine themselves as medieval warlords at a feast.

Favourite way to spend an afternoon in London...

Lying under an oak tree on Hampstead Heath.

The three best London photography books…

Skinheads by Nick Knight, London Youth by Derek Ridgers and The British At Home by Bill Brandt.

The best advice I can give is…

Trust your intuition, which is actually our lightening-speed way of drawing on years of experience to make a decision.

F

ashion photographers Juergen Teller and Tim Walker are just two of the big name ar tists who have worked with Claire de Rouen Books, but most visitors to London are unlikely to have discovered the small room filled with new and rare photo books, signed prints, collectable vintage magazines and unique new independent titles at the top of an inconspicuous staircase at 125 Charing Cross Road.

Claire de Rouen, a respected London book dealer and Bob Carlos Clarke ran the store until de Rouen’s death in 2012. The pair made a sterling success of the place, with star photograpger David Bailey calling it “maybe the best photography bookshop in the world”.

In the last three years, current director Lucy Kumara Moore has done a fine job of building on de Rouen’s legacy.

With degrees from Cambridge, Chelsea College Of Ar t And Design

and the Royal College Of Ar t, Kumara Moore was more than qualified to step in as director, despite never having previously worked at the shop.

“I actually didn’t ever work with Claire. But I knew her well and she was mysterious, warm, majestic and always there to impar t her wisdom,” says Kumara Moore. “I knew that Claire wanted me to move the bookshop forward, and from the outset I felt the best way to honour her and to continue her legacy was to be myself.”

Kumara Moore and her small team host book signings, magazine launch par ties and reading groups in the shop, as well as advising young photographers working on self-published books. “I make no distinction between established and emerging photographers – if the work is good, I will suppor t it,” says Kumara Moore. She also organises annual threeday ar t book fair Room&Book, which

Emirates operates 119 non-stop flights per week from Dubai to the UK.

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takes place every June at the ICA in London, and will launch an online shop later this year.

But it’s Claire de Rouen’s loyal clientele that ensures its ongoing success. “The shop has a group of collectors, photographers, ar tists, writers and fashion designers at its core – they visit regularly and are engaged with what they find,” says Kumara Moore. “I think photographers appreciate this context, and feel confident that their work will be presented in the best possible way.”

“I think more and more artists, photographers and fashion designers understand the qualities that physical books offer – and they are becoming ever more beautiful,” she adds. “Specialism, knowledge and personal customer service is the key though, and I think that is what specialist bookshops do best.” clairederouenbooks.com

L u n c h

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HA-JOON CHANG The celebrated economist is on a mission to help the masses understand economics. We spoke to the author of 23 Things They Don’t Tell You About Capitalism over lunch at Sala Thong in Cambridge WORDS: GaReth ReeS imaGeS: ReBeCCa ReeS

H

a-Joon Chang introduces himself with a shake of the hand, sits down, orders a pot of Chinese green tea with jasmine flowers, places a copy of his popular book Economics: A User’s Guide on the table, signs it and offers it to me with both hands. “A gift for you,” he says with a smile, before

removing his wire-framed spectacles and wiping them with a faded burgundy cloth. He will repeat this process at regular intervals over the next 30 minutes, until the food, which is to be a surprise selection of dishes from the chef, arrives and he has something else to do with his hands.

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UnfortUnately, people have always wanted to believe that there’s one trUth. if other people don’t believe it, yoU either persUade them or persecUte them

It is a Monday afternoon, and we’re sitting at one of half a dozen or so mostly unoccupied tables in Sala Thong, a cosy Thai restaurant the economist says he visits “very often”, due to its close proximity to his office at the University Of Cambridge, where he’s a reader in the Political Economy Of Development.

Chang, who has a full head of salt and pepper hair, displays a warm demeanour and certainly looks at home as he pours himself the first of many bowls of tea and relaxes into his seat.

Published in 2014, Economics: A User’s Guide was the book used to relaunch Penguin’s Pelican imprint, the famous and muchloved series of non-fiction titles originally introduced in 1936 to help people build an understanding of the world for the price of a packet of cigarettes. It is the distinguished South Korean economist’s fifteenthth book, and its publication followed that of other popular titles including 2010’s 23 Things They Don’t Tell You About Capitalism, 2008’s Bad Samaritans and 2002’s Kicking Away The Ladder. Economics: A User’s Guide is the latest weapon the 51-year-old Cambridge academic has utilised in his war against economic ignorance and, if sales figures are taken as the measure of success, it is a battle he is currently winning. Ha-Joon estimates that collectively his books have sold 1.8 million copies, with the most popular, 23 Things They Don’t Tell You About Capitalism – which by mid-2016 will have been translated into 40 languages – accounting for around three quarters of a million of those sales.

Chang was born in Seoul in 1963, when the South Korean capital was still in the early, turbulent stages of its journey towards economic prosperity. His mother was a housewife who had taught English in a girls’ school before she married. Chang’s father worked in the Korean Ministry Of Finance, and Chang says he lived quite a comfortable life. “I never lived in poverty myself, but I was growing up in a very poor country. You could walk round the corner and see abject poverty with your own eyes,” he says. “But at the same time the economy was growing

at 10 per cent. The country was becoming prosperous. Even comparing when I was a primary school student to when I was in high school the country was unrecognisable. So it was quite an exciting time in many ways.”

It was in high school that Chang’s father, a trained lawyer who earned a PhD in economics studying part-time while working as a civil servant, suggested to the 15-year-old that economics might be an interesting field to go into. But, he says, his father didn’t push him and wasn’t really his main motivation. “The huge change going on around me was the prime motivator,” he says.

“On the one hand you had all this tremendous progress in terms of the standard of living, cities growing like bamboo shoots after the rain, as we say in Korea. You would visit a place and return six months later and there would be a new town. This transformation was really fascinating. On the other hand, even though the country’s economy was growing quickly, you still saw poverty, workers were striking and farmers were demonstrating. I wanted to understand what was really going on. In the end what drove me was my desire to understand the real world.”

The young Chang attended Seoul National University, where he studied for an undergraduate degree in economics. But he didn’t see any correlation between the picture of a country prospering thanks to free market economic policies painted by his professors and the turmoil of a society “drenched in conflict”.

“What made me look for different approaches [to understanding the economy] was that the economics I was taught at university in Korea was so abstract,” he says. “I star ted looking for ways to learn different types of economics that were more realistic, and at that time Cambridge struck me as the right place.”

When Chang arrived in Britain in 1986, having never before travelled outside of South Korea, he spoke only basic English, and the picture of England he had formed in his head was based

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It goes back to the reason I do economIcs: to contrIbute to the real world, to make human lIfe better on the novels of Arthur Conan Doyle and Agatha Christie he loved to read. “The impression I had from reading detective novels was that all Brits lived in manor houses and got murdered, street urchins running around delivering messages for Sherlock Holmes,” he says with a chuckle that suggests he’s not being entirely serious. “It was a complete culture shock.”

But Chang recovered from the initial jolt and went on to earn first his master’s and then his PhD. For the latter, he worked with the distinguished Marxist economist Robert Rowthorn, developing a heterodox view of economics.

“Unfortunately, people have always wanted to believe that there’s one truth and that’s what you and everybody should believe,” he continues. “If other people don’t believe it, you either persuade them or persecute them.”

Our food starts to arrive. “Oh, wow,” exclaims Chang, as half a pineapple filled with fried rice and plump pink prawns, a plate of chicken coated in chilli paste and sprinkled with cashew nuts, and a bowl of noodle soup topped with half a dozen slices of duck are placed on the table.

The waitress wedges three more dishes into what little space remains: three crispy, golden corn cakes; a row of light and crunchy prawn tempura; and a whole seabass swimming in a lemongrass, chilli and coriander broth. Chang asks for chopsticks and sweet chilli sauce, and we both tuck into our feast – much of which Chang, explaining that he hates to see food wasted, will later have bagged up to take home for his dinner – with gusto.

Chang has told previous interviewers that he doesn’t believe some of his fellow economists have much respect for his work, something I find hard to believe for a man who appeared on Prospect magazine’s prestigious World Thinkers list in 2013 and has sold more than a million books.

“There are a sufficient number of my professional colleagues who take me seriously, but the majority don’t, because I don’t publish in the top journals, where you have to use a lot of mathematics and take the neoclassical approach [to economics],” he says.

This is one of Chang’s major bugbears: the refusal by his fellow economists and many politicians to even countenance the idea that the current economic paradigm might not be perfect – that it might be worth considering other ideas.

“It goes back to the reason I do economics: to contribute to the real world, to make human life better,” he says, a prawn poised in the grip of his expertly handled chopsticks. “Increasingly I’ve come to realise that unless you open up the subject to the general public, economics is in danger of becoming similar to Catholic ideology in the Middle Ages.”

If you like to listen to interviews and insights, check out Podcasts on ice digital widescreen. this month’s highlights include wnYc’s freakonomics radio, new tech city, radiolab and here’s the thing presented by alec baldwin. there’s also a great podcast from the week magazine.

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“The intellectual fight I am facing is with simplification,” he says. “It’s always nice if you can simplify things. In the old days, the socialists used to say, ‘Capitalism is evil,’ ‘capitalists are bad people,’ ‘abolish capitalism and everything will be fine.’ How simple is that?

Beautiful, eh? A solution to all problems in one blow, and of course it doesn’t work like that. It’s the same with free market economists.

They say, ‘Liberate the market forces and everything will be taken care of.’ Once again the realities are quite messy, complex. It’s a great challenge, because how do you make things simple so that people understand without simplifying the underlying message?

That is something I struggle with all the time.”

It’s certainly no easy task Chang has set himself, but through his popular books, regular lectures and a mass media profile buoyed by regular columns for respected titles such as The Guardian and the Financial Times, he has managed to make that connection with the general public. He says that he currently receives two or three e-mails a day from readers – some simply thanking him for placing an understanding of such a seemingly impenetrable subject within their grasp, others asking questions.

“Ninety per cent of the time I reply,” he says, explaining that the other 10 per cent of e-mails contain questions so complex they would require another book to answer.

But Chang is not just the author of several popular books on economics, and despite his non-partisan nature, he has had an effect on economic policy. He has consulted major international organisations such as the World Bank, the UN and the Asian Development Bank, and his ideas have been taken on board by national governments in countries including Namibia and Ecuador.

“Those are the things that I live for,” he says. “Then I can see I am really making a difference to the real world. I live by the saying of the Italian Marxist political thinker Antonio Gramsci that we need to have ‘pessimism of the intellect, optimism of the will’,” says Chang. “I fully accept the world is difficult to change and there will be a lot of resistance, maybe due to the interests of some powerful groups, maybe out of sheer reluctance of many people to try new things. You have to be fully aware of that, but if you don’t aim high, you will never change anything.”

We have been talking for almost 90 minutes and the food, which we have been attacking for almost an hour, has star ted

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to disappear at a slower rate. Things are winding down. So, after ordering an espresso for myself and some more hot water for Chang’s pot of tea, I ask him about his family. He married his wife, Hee-Jeong Kim in 1993, shor tly after finishing his PhD, and they have two children: a daughter, Yuna, who is in the second year at the University Of Oxford, where she is studying history; and a 15-year old son, Jin-Gyu. “They are typical children, whatever their dad does is embarrassing, boring,” he says.

Fortunately, the public disagrees with his children, so is he working on a follow-up to Economics: A User’s Guide?

“That book was something special,” he says. “I would never try to write anything like that again. I suffered so much. When I was in the final phase, one day I was sitting at the desk for 15 hours, and then the next day 14, and I realised I have never worked that hard in my whole life – not to do my PhD, not to get into university, no, never. I’m pleased that it came out quite well, but I don’t want to do it again.”

He hasn’t completely dismissed the idea of writing another one, though, as long as it’s not as mammoth a task as the last one, but he does worry about repeating himself. “Maybe I will write another book, maybe I won’t,” he concludes.

I suggest a detective novel in honour of his literary heroes: Conan Doyle and Christie. Perhaps with an economist as the main protagonist? “Oh no, that would be really boring,” he scoffs.

“Death by numbers. You kill someone by quoting an endless stream of statistics.”

The Bill 1 x Pineapple fried rice (US$21), 1 x Corn cake (US$7), 1 x Prawn tempura (US$10), 1 x Duck noodle soup (US$21), 1 x Steamed sea bass (US$21.30), 1 x Chicken with chilli paste and cashew nuts (US$13.30), 1 x Tea (US$1.50), 1 x Espresso (US$3.90), 1 x Still water (US$2.30)

Total: US$101.30

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The Chedi MusCaT Oman

Words: stacey siebritz image: the chedi muscat The Chedi might well have been the first five-star hotel to open in Muscat but, although it’s more than a decade old, the resor t feels as fresh as ever. That’s largely thanks to visionar y architect Jean-Michel Gathy and his chic mix of traditional Arabic elements and Asian minimalism.

This is embodied in the crisp white

linens, dark woods and black marble of the Chedi Club Suite, with serene rooms and ocean views tempting you simply to stay in, order room service and take long soaks in the sunken terrazzo bath.

But you must venture outside, if only to marvel at the show-stopping Long Pool (all 103 metres of it) and the elegant Club Lounge, where suite guests get treated to

pre-dinner cocktails and canapés.

Along with the Long Pool, there’s also a stunning infinity pool, a shaded family pool and private beach – unsurprising, given Gathy’s penchant for water in his hotel designs. All things considered, choosing where to lay your beach towel should be the most strenuous part of your stay. ghmhotels.com/en/muscat

Emirates and Oman Air have a codeshare on all flights operated by each other between Dubai and Muscat. There are three daily services operated

by Emirates, and six daily departures operated by Oman Air.

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Story Hotel Stockholm, Sweden

Words and Image: geoff Brokate Filled with chic designs, contemporary art and a Parisian-influenced bar that has become the mainstay for the stylish locals, Story Hotel is a unique Swedish gem that offers a wide scope of experiences – from sophisticated business travel to urban hipster nightlife.

Guests are responsible for their own check-in, which creates a feeling of

independence and freedom.You simply type your name into a computer upon arrival and receive your room number and code.

Aside from the bar there is a courtyard decorated with commissioned graffiti and an underground restaurant area that remains candle-lit, even during the expansive breakfast buffet.

Emirates flies non-stop daily to Stockholm with the Boeing 777-300ER.

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Former artists’ studios, the rooms are inspired by the industrial New York loft style, with exposed pipes along the ceiling and minimalist design. The art displayed throughout is integral to the sensibility of the hotel and is also offered for sale through a dedicated website. storyhotels.com

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The Quin N e w Yo r k C i t Y, U S

Words: Marina Chetner iMage: the Quin Located on a stretch of 57th Street now known as Billionaire’s Row, The Quin has something many new luxur y high rises can’t boast: a top-level openair terrace. Guests staying in the hotel’s 17th floor rooms, suites, or three-storey three-bedroom penthouse, have private access to alfresco views overlooking Central Park to the nor th and One

World Trade Centre to the south.

Housed in a pre-war building, it was rechristened The Quin in November 2013, and its historic exterior, together with the Lincoln Center, Rockefeller Center, and Carnegie Hall, located just steps away, helps keep old-world glamour alive in midtown Manhattan.

Guests of the 208-room hotel have

access to an attaché who can take care of any desire, whether it’s booking a last-minute table at a sought-after restaurant, or tailor-made tours around town. Speaking of which, Quin Ar ts – curated by DK Johnston – presents an ongoing series of exhibitions that pays homage to the building’s heritage. thequinhotel.com

Emirates flies four times daily to New York’s JFK Airport, on flights operated by the Emirates A380. Emirates Skywards members can earn Miles on JetBlue flights and members of JetBlue’s TrueBlue loyalty programme can earn points for Emirates-operated flights.

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PECKHAM, LONDON WORDS: GARETH REES IMAGES: REBECCA REES

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Emirates’ eight daily flights to London will all be served by the highly popular A380s from January 1, 2016, cementing the airline’s status as the largest international A380 operator into the British capital.

Until recently, most British people would have associated Peckham, in south-east London, with its most famous fictional resident, David Jason’s exuberant market trader Del Boy Trotter, star of John Sullivan’s long-running BBC sit-com Only Fools And Horses. But over the last decade or so the district has benefitted from a concer ted regeneration effor t,

embodied in the Will Aslop-designed Stirling Award-winning Peckham Librar y, which opened in 2000 and now attracts more than half a million visitors a year.

Walk out of Peckham Rye railway station on to the main shopping thoroughfare, Rye Lane, and you will still be greeted with the bustle and clamour of what has long been one of London’s | 47 |

most ethnically diverse localities, but nearby you will find signs of Peckham’s recent transformation into a creative hotspot: Frank’s Café, a multi-storey car park turned bar, restaurant and gallery; and the Bussey Building, a 19th century warehouse reimagined as a performing ar ts venue. Peckham is buzzing. You would be a fool not to visit.

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GANAPATI RESTAURANT

Named for the elephant-headed god Ganesh (known in southern India as Ganapati), Ganapati Restaurant, located on the corner of Holly Grove and Peckham’s well-known Bellenden Road, specialises in southern Indian dishes inspired by the street food of Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. Head chef Aboobacker Pallithodi Koya and his team offer an extensive main menu as well as a smaller lunch menu, and two people can eat a delicious evening meal for around US$60. Rightly lauded by London critics, Ganapati is extremely popular with both Peckham locals and visitors, and it can be tough to secure a table for dinner, but on a Tuesday lunchtime we strolled in off the street without a reservation and ate a remarkable lunch of vegetable thali and kingfish curry.

38 Holly Grove, Peckham, London | Tel: +44 (0) 20 72772928 | ganapatirestaurant.com

PETITOU

A good cup of coffee is not hard to find in Peckham. Choumert Road’s stylish Café Viva sources its beans from South London small batch roastery Volcano Coffee Works; Old Spike Roastery, near Peckham Rye Park and Common, roasts its own beans, serves coffee and provides homeless people with barista training, housing and a job; and there are plenty of other places to keep your caffeine levels high. But Petitou, opened in 2003 in a former butcher’s shop, provides not only decent coffee but also a respectable selection of breakfast dishes, salads and snacks and a cornucopia of cakes and baked goods, including cookies from The Cinnamon Tree Bakery on Peckham High Street. Order the first-class scrambled eggs and enjoy breakfast amidst the greenery on the terrace.

63 Choumert Road, Peckham, London | Tel: +44 (0) 20 76392613 | petitou.co.uk | 49 |

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GENERAL STORE

Just across the street from the beautiful modern butcher’s shop Flock & Herd, which local food blogger The Skint Foodie rightly praises as a “top, top butchers”, General Store also aims to transpor t local food lovers back to a time before supermarkets.

Run by young owners Merlin and Genevieve, who live above the shop, General Store is a contemporar y interpretation of what a grocer’s shop would have looked like in the halcyon days of the independent high street. It has been handsomely realised, its wooden shelves lined with a meticulously ordered array of store cupboard comestibles, ar tisan coffee, craft beers, devotedly sourced cheese, freshly-baked bread and fine wine. On the pavement outside, crates stacked with mounds of bright seasonal fruit and veg act as bait for passing epicures.

174 Bellenden Road, Peckham, London | Tel: +44 (0) 20 6422129 | generalsto.re

BIAS

This independent boutique was opened by former head teacher Sally Hindle on Bellenden Road in 2012. Bias is one of those great stores that really covers all the bases, and stocks a carefully curated selection of clothing, ranging from Ben Sherman shir ts to jeans by British label MiH and womenswear from Danish label Baum und Pferdgar ten, as well as homeware, beauty products and jewellery and accessories from brands such as Copenhagen’s Beck Sondergaard and Denmark’s Pernille Corydon. You will also find a selection of locally produced products illustrating Hindle’s commitment to suppor ting Peckham designers. Bias caters to both men and women, but ladies will find they have more to choice than the gents.

143 Bellenden Road, Peckham, London | Tel: +44 (0) 7798927638 | biasboutique.com | 51 |

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

THE BEGGING BOWL

Despite this compact Thai restaurant’s popularity, we only waited 15 minutes in a local bar before receiving a call notifying us that our table was ready. It’s no surprise that The Begging Bowl is one of the first restaurants most Peckham residents will recommend to visitors; there is indoor and outdoor seating and the food would have been wor th a much longer wait. The dinner menu features 16 dishes, colour coded to indicate prices ranging from US$10 to US$23, and sharing is recommended.

Five or six dishes with a side of jasmine rice are enough for two people. The menu changes regularly, but the green curry of rabbit and the fish cakes with sweet chilli sauce we ordered were delicious.

168 Bellenden Road, Peckham, London | Tel: +44 (0) 20 76352627 | thebeggingbowl.co.uk

REVIEW

Opened in 2005, Review is a small but well-loved independent bookshop on Peckham’s Bellenden Road. Owned by long-time Peckham resident and founder of the Peckham Literary Festival Roz Simpson, Review is run with the help of writer Evie Wyld, a former entry on Granta’s Best Of Young British Novelists list, and manager Katia Wengraf. Review stocks mainly literary fiction, but also has a selection of cookery books, ar t books, children’s books and independent magazines, as well as wrapping paper, greeting cards, stationary and appropriate knickknacks. The shop also hosts book launches and has a small outdoor garden area with seating, where customers can thumb through the latest additions to their libraries with a takeaway coffee from one of the fine local cafés.

131 Bellenden Road, Peckham, London | Tel: +44 (0) 20 76397400 | reviewbookshop.co.uk | 53 |

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CLF ART CAFÉ

CLF (Chronic Love Foundation) Ar t Café occupies the multi-level Bussey Building, a 120-year-old warehouse and former cricket bat factory on Peckham’s main shopping street, Rye Lane. The building gained protected status in 2011, becoming par t of the Peckham Conser vation Area. It is Peckham’s main cultural crowd-puller, luring people from across London with it’s packed events schedule, which encompasses an array of attractions including top DJs, film nights, dance, comedy and performances by leading theatre companies such as the Royal Cour t Theatre. The middle floors are sandwiched between the Bussey Building’s 5,000sqft rooftop, which offers an unobstructed view of London in all directions, and Rye Wax, a basement event space, café, bar and shop selling vinyl, CDs, comics and graphic novels.

133 Rye Lane, Peckham, London | +44 (0) 20 77325275 | clfartcafe.org

FRANK’S CAFÉ

Commissioned by not-for-profit organisation Bold Tendencies and designed by the acclaimed young architects Paloma Gormley and Lettice Drake of Practice Architecture, rooftop bar and restaurant Frank’s Café was opened by bartender Frank Boxer and chef Michael Davies in 2008. A basic wooden structure built by volunteers from scaffolding boards with a red fabric roof, it is Frank’s Café’s location, on the 10th floor of Peckham Multi-Storey Car Park, that brings the hordes who fill its wooden picnic benches and stools during the summer months. The view, which encompasses iconic buildings such as Peckham Library, The Shard and the The Gherkin, is worth the visit alone. Take the stairs and enjoy the art installations during your ascent through the lower levels of the car park.

10th Floor, Peckham Multi-Storey Car Park, Rye Lane, Peckham, London | frankscafe.org.uk | 55 |

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DUBAI BUTTERFLY GARDEN Dubai’s newly opened indoor Butterfly Garden offers a fantastical respite from the city’s end-of-summer heat words and IMaGEs: sandra TInarI

A

s if stemming from the imagination of Lewis Carroll, Dubai’s Miracle Garden, with its fantastical flower displays, has been enthralling visitors throughout the winter season. Now, summer in the city is just as fanciful as the Garden opens its indoor Butterfly Garden.

Entering the lush, jungle-like interior of the Dubai Butterfly Garden at Dubailand is akin to stepping through Alice’s looking glass. It is a magical experience. Butterflies the size of your hand daintily float by, while other, even more brightly coloured

specimens gently come to rest on your head, shoulders and hands… not an experience for the more squeamish.

Protected from the heat of the Arabian Peninsula’s summer season, the world’s largest indoor collection of butterflies is enclosed in the cool of nine space-like greenhouse domes, with each colourful beauty fluttering freely throughout the deser t oasis. At a pleasant 24 degrees Celsius, the garden’s occupants and visitors are oblivious to the harsh environment beyond the walls.

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entering the garden is akin to stepping through alice’s looking glass... it’s a magical experience

The butterfly oasis is the brainchild of AKAR Landscaping Services and Agriculture, the team also behind the Dubai Miracle Garden. Abdul Nasser Rahhal, general manager of the gardens, says the butterfly greenhouses are home to 15,000 butterflies and pupae, originating from Latin America, Asia and Africa.

“Our most popular butterfly is the blue Morpho,” says Abdul.

“We have three species of Morpho, and we also have the biggest species of butterfly, the Owl Butterfly, which is one of our main butterflies.” Owl butterflies can grow ver y large, up to 65–200 mm (2.6–7.9 in) and are named for the large owllike ‘eye’ found on the wings.

Set out in a circular shape, the Butterfly Garden’s interconnected greenhouses total 1,800 square metres, space enough for 300 people to wander its grounds. Each dome is filled with different colours, sizes and species of butterfly, while a butterfly museum and an outdoor butterfly flower park complete the attraction. Nasser Rahhal says plans are in place to expand the garden to incorporate a

bird garden and koy fish garden, as well as host children’s bir thday par ties.

A riot of colour and sound, the garden is open year-round and brims with tropical foliage, nectar plants, trailing tendrils of ivy and water features, all there for the sole enjoyment of the star attractions, the butterflies.

The domes’ nectar plants, which supply food for the butterflies, are planted in differing colours inside each dome to attract and maintain the population. Some of the most popular nectar plants used in the gardens include butterfly bush and butterfly weed.

While an enthralling day-out, the garden’s creators also strive for an educational experience; hoping that visitors may witness the actual butterfly lifecycle and gain insight into their metamorphosis, which offers an oppor tunity to recognise and appreciate the butterfly in all its growth stages that can var y from between one and three weeks.

The Dubai Butterfly Garden may indeed be educational but the real drawcard is that it is at once peaceful and utterly magical, enabling visitors to escape into a fantastical garden of whimsy.

The garden is located adjacent to the Dubai Miracle Garden in Dubailand off Um Suqeim Road. It is open daily from 9am to 5.30pm and entrance is Dhs50. dubaibutterflygarden.com

the city sightseeing hop-on hop-off bus is a great way to explore dubai. learn more about city sightseeing dubai, and all the routes and stops at citysightseeing-dubai.com

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STEREO ARCADE If you’re a fan of retro arcade games like Pac-Man, Mario Bros and Street Fighter II, come and relive your youth in Dubai Marina

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live music venue and club that celebrates the music scene of the 1980s and 1990s, Stereo Arcade is causing something of a stir thanks to its unashamed neon nostalgia and handcrafted arcade games.

Samer Hamadeh is the man behind the Tron: Legacy inspired venue, a veteran of the Dubai nightlife scene, he also owned the popular club, Republique, in Downtown Dubai before closing its doors to focus on his new retro arcade venture.

“I believe in knowing your customer above all else, and

I know my customers from my past nightlife experiences, which were also ver y much retro-inspired,” says Samer of his decision to open a 1980s and 1990s retro venue.

“I don’t believe customers like to be surprised at a nightclub; they like consistency when it comes to music; so with the ’80s and ’90s, it’s almost impossible not to please people, who genuinely love those decades in music. Plus we add some fun little elements along the way…”

The fun elements come in the form of 15 arcade games,

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which sit at the hear t of Stereo Arcade and create breathing space between the neon-lit, space-age club with its synth music on the one side and the ’90s-inspired live music rock venue on the other, which plays host to local acts.

For those who grew up on Sega and Nintendo games, and fondly recall nights lost in the noisy arcadia of bright screens and neon buttons, the arcade parlour is perfectly pixelated alternative to busy nights out in painfully trendy clubs.

“I’m a gamer at hear t,” says Hamadeh. “Growing up in the ’80s and ’90s I had my home consoles, like the Nintendo Enter tainment System and Super Nintendo but the real fun was always going to the arcade.”

“That’s why I flew out to Bristol, to one of the oldest multi-game arcade machine manufacturers, to source the machines. They still build ever ything by hand and I had the machines painted grey as a tribute to the company that single-handedly saved the video game industr y in the mid1980s… Nintendo. Our customers can enjoy hundreds of arcade games ranging from Pac-Man and Donkey Kong to Street Fighter II and Out Run.” The attention to detail in Samer’s venue is impressive, golden ar t installations, painstakingly installed throughout the club evoke a cyberworld, machine-like environment, while the mirrored walls are given a 3D treatment in homage to the computer grid depicted in Tron, the 1982 science fiction film.

Across the arcade, the 1990s feel speakeasy and live music sets a different tone, with softer lighting, booths and tables for a more relaxed night out.

Stereo Arcade is located in the DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel at the southern end of Jumeirah Beach Residence in Dubai Marina. The arcade and live music venue is open from 6pm, while the nightclub opens at 8pm. stereoarcade.com

the attention to detail at the venue is impressive with golden art installations that evoke a 3d cyberworld

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A collection of stories from around the world

The Gondoliers

How Japan Changed The World

Walking The-Hill Tribe Path

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From sushi and tiny technology to manga and console gaming, the Japanese capital is responsible for many of the things we take for granted in modern living Tokyo is a city in a hurr y, with neonsplashed streets, steam-filled restaurants and loud karaoke bars crammed with people no matter the hour.

More than 13 million people live in Japan’s capital, representing around 10 percent of the countr y’s total population. It’s a hub of style, engineering, design, technology, and food – its innovations shaping nearly ever y aspect of modern life in the West.

While many of these creations are born out of necessity as opposed to initial desire, the fact remains that where Japan leads, the rest of the world ultimately follows.

“For demographic and geographic reasons – a high population and very little flat land for building – the Japanese were generations ahead of the rest of the world in terms of having to cope with living piled on top of one another,” says Dr Jonathan Clements, author of Modern Japan: All That Matters.

“This has led to a greater interest, in terms of design and technology, in being able to isolate oneself from the people around you. The Walkman was originally designed so that the boss of Sony, Akio Morita, could listen to music on a plane – can you imagine air travel today without music? The Walkman then kicked off a revolution in fitness, while miniaturisation and falling costs have also been instrumental in the migration of TV sets from lounges to bedrooms, and the diversification of media into narrowcasting, whereby different people can watch the TV programmes or videos that they want, even in the same house.”

Clements calls this ability “negotiated privacy”, and spend any length of time wandering Tokyo’s streets and you’ll soon understand its necessity. Hedged in by mountains and ocean, Japan’s capital has grown upwards – like a plant reaching for the sun. Roads are narrow and crowded, neon advertising hoardings everywhere. | 69 |

Arrive after a long flight and it can feel like the entire city’s jumping up and down, clamouring for your attention.

It’s a lot of fun though, especially around the electronics district, Akihabara.

Hundreds of technology stores are crammed along the main drag of Chuo Dori and its side streets, covering everything from tiny stalls selling phone chargers to huge chain retailers such as Yodobashi Camera (1-11-1 Nishishinjuku), with floors upon floors of gizmos and games.

Akihabara was once the place to see the technology of tomorrow, and although ferocious international competition has cracked the crystal ball, there are still a few glimpses of the future to be had here and there.

“You’ll see new fashions on display, the TV shows that are big with today’s youth, and the stores selling whatever it is that is just about to go global,” says Clements.

“Not everything will look likely at first. They

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were selling selfie sticks 20 years ago... and nobody thought they would catch on.”

For something a little more startling, head to Tsukumo Robot O-koku (1-9-9 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku), a shop that specialises in putting a palatable face on the robot revolution. In one corner, you’ll find two teams of robots playing football, in another a robot maid dutifully moving dishes around. Whether you’ve got $10 in your pocket or $10,000, they’ll have something to sell you. Even if you’re not buying it’s worth taking a peek, if only to see what your own country will look like in 10 years’ time.

Tokyo’s at the forefront of robotics research, with companies, including Honda, Toyota and Mitsubishi, creating machines capable of learning, displaying emotions on eerily lifelike faces, and even helping elderly people around the house – including getting them in and out of bed. Obviously, these companies aren’t going to let you wander into their R&D labs (no matter how much you plead), but the Honda Welcome Plaza (2-1-1 Minamiaoyama, Minato) is the place to be if you want to see what all the

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The Walkman was originally designed so that the boss of Sony, Akio Morita, could listen to music on a plane fuss is about. Every day at 1.30pm and 3pm, Honda’s humanoid robot Asimo is wheeled out to enter tain the crowds, something he does by dancing, running, and generally acting a lot like a human child. Better yet, unlike most things in Tokyo, it’s free, so don’t be shy about heading down to watch.

There are few cities in the world that know how to let their hair down quite like Tokyo. And by down, we mean dyed pink, tied up into pigtails, and par t of a costume only people below the age of 22 actually recognise. This is the world of cosplay, manga and anime – which has brought of us everything from the Oscarwinning studio Ghibli film Spirited Away to cult hits such as Akira.

“In the ’80s, Japan was famous for cars and the Sony Walkman, but since the | 71 |

1990s it is anime (animation) and manga graphic novels,” says Dr Anan Nobuko, a lecturer in Japanese studies at Birkbeck, University Of London. “Kawaii [meaning cute] culture, represented by Hello Kitty, is also very popular outside of Japan. It’s no surprise, as Japan has been promoting itself as a cultural superpower since it lost its economic and political influence in the 1990s and 2000s, and youth pop cultural artefacts such as anime and manga occupy a large part of the export.”

If that seems a little clinical, don’t worry, a trip to the Harajuku district will soon convince you this isn’t a mere marketing exercise. Fanning out from Takeshita Dori is a spider web of fashion boutiques, costume shops, and fast-food restaurants. Come evening cosplayers (continued on page 75)

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Gifts from the east Japanese creations have permeated the West to such an extent that many of its most telling contributions aren’t even remarked upon. Dr Jonathan Clements, author of Modern Japan: All That Matters, takes us through some surprising Japanese inventions

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Instant noodles

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“Japanese food has certainly carved out a global niche for itself. Not just sushi, either, but also the humble instant noodle, pioneered by Momofuku Ando of the Nissin Corporation in 1958.”

“How many lives have been saved by the pictographic ‘Emergency Exit’ sign, which grew out of the realisation that visitors to the Osaka Expo wouldn’t be able to escape in case of fire if they couldn’t read Japanese? Yukio Ota’s 1982 refinement of the image has since been internationally adopted.”

“Or how about the humble, largely-unnoticed ‘tactile pavement’ – those nobbly paving stones for the blind, invented by Seiichi Miyake in 1965?”

“Because of demographics, the Japanese often reach market saturation before other firstworld countries, and are the first to find new applications for technology. With the largest market penetration of video cameras, they were the first nation to solicit ‘funny home movies’ from the public to fill up TV programmes.”

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which are people dressed up like their favourite fictional characters spill on to the streets like some sort of bubblegum army, the entire area turning into a living comic book panel. Anybody who’s ever attended a Comic-Con will feel immediately at home as the atmosphere is friendly and fun, although be careful about taking pictures – most people won’t take too kindly to popping flashes.

Trips to the Ghibli Museum (1 Chome -1-83 Shimorenjaku), offering a behindthe-scenes look at Japan’s most famous

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Not everything will look likely at first.

Tokyo was selling selfie sticks 20 years ago... and nobody thought they would catch on animation studio, are a must, although if you’re looking to add to your manga collection, then you’ll need to head over to Akihabara and Shinjuku, which do a roaring trade in everything otaku – which roughly translates as “geek”. Start out at Mandarake (Sotokanda 3-11-12, Chiyoda-ku), which is stuffed to bursting with mangas, action figures, costumes and just about everything else you could ever want. Even if you’re just dipping your toe in, a couple of the staff speak English and will dedicate themselves to finding something you love. Be open-minded and you’ll get an education.

“The two-dimensional, often unrealistic aesthetics in these media [manga

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and anime] seem to attract Western audiences,” says Dr Nobuko. “This actually dates back to the late 19th century when many Western artists were fascinated

by Japanese fashion and paintings. It isn’t clear if there’s any direct link between these traditional Japanese arts and contemporary anime and manga, but two-dimensionality has always been an important aspect of Japanese culture.”

And we can’t talk about geek culture in Tokyo without touching on videogames.

Sega and Sony are headquartered in the city, while Nintendo has offices there. Sega and Nintendo started creating arcade games in the 1970s, before sparking the console boom in the 1980s, an industry that’s now worth $100 billion worldwide.

Celebrate with a visit to Joyopolis (16-1 Daiba, Minato), a theme park that specialises in rides and arcade games. For a slightly quieter evening, there’s always the lovely 8bit Café (3-8-9 Shinjuku, 5F Q building), where you can order a cup of green tea and play classic videogames.

When it comes to food, it’s an oftrepeated fact that Tokyo has (far) more Michelin stars than any other city in the world, something that makes immediate sense 10 seconds after tucking into your first meal. Eating badly in Tokyo is difficult to do, even if you sit yourself at one of the roadside noodle bars that look to be a stiff breeze away from falling over.

Whatever the hour, the chef will lavish the

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same care on your food as you’d see in the swankiest restaurant on the 30th floor of a skyscraper. Cooking is an art in Japan, every dish a gift, honed through decades of experience. Little wonder Japanese cuisine has been added to the Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

“I believe Japan’s greatest impact on Western cooking has been the ‘fifth taste’, or umami,” says Anton Verplak, a former Nobu chef who now runs Minus8, a company offering culinary tours around Japan. “We are aware of sweet, salty, sour, bitter and then there is the illusive umami [which translates as a pleasant savouriness]. Even though it isn’t a recent discovery, nor does it exist solely within Japanese cuisine, it was discovered by the Japanese. In Japanese cuisine it can be found in ingredients such as konbu

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and katsuobushi, which are used to make dashi, the foundation to almost all dishes.”

Making sense of umami is a little like trying to explain the colour red to somebody, although Verplak equates it to the feeling you get after eating a bowl of miso soup, “it’s as though your meal has just given you a hug,” he says.

To experience it, your best bet is to take a wander around one of Toyko’s massive food halls. Agree to meet friends at a specific stall, and chances are you’ll already be full by the time you arrive, having gorged yourself on the free samples being constantly pushed your way by perma-smiling sales assistants. One of the more recent – and largest – sits beneath Takashimaya Times Square, and sells more than 30,000 items, the entire hall abuzz with chopping and chattering,

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delighted exultations from diners having tried something new. For something a little less glossy, try Aqua City (1-7-1 Daiba, Minato), which complements great food with views over the bay, including a miniature Statue Of Liberty.

“For a deeper understanding of umami you can also tour markets such as Tsukiji and try as many samples as you can,” says Verplak. “You will find that satisfying umami taste in so many foods. Perhaps visit a katsuobushi supplier at Tsukiji to see both freshly shaved katsuobushi and konbu [kelp]. I would also highly recommend dining at the Michelin-starred Ishikawa Kagurazaka, where chef Hideki Ishikawa’s broth is gentle yet with such depth of flavour. There you will have then experienced the pinnacle of umami... in my humble opinion.”

This June, Emirates opened its 38th dedicated lounge in Terminal 2 at Narita International Airport in Tokyo. The lounge is open to First Class and Business Class customers as well as Platinum and Gold Emirates Skywards members.

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T H E NOBLES FROM T H E 1 4TH A N D 1 5TH CENTU R I ES E N T E R ED T HEIR PALAC ES VI A THE CA N A LS WHI LE TH E B A C K S T REET S AND F O O TBR I D G ES WER E FO R TH E S E R VANT S . T HEREFORE TO TR ULY SEE TH E G R A NDEU R OF V ENIC E YOU M U ST TR AVEL B Y BOAT WORDS & IMAGES: GEOFF BROKATE

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It’s believed that during the 16th century there were more than 10,000 gondolas in Venice, but now there are around 400, used entirely for tourist purposes.

It was once a symbol of wealth and rich Venetian families used to compete against each other to adorn their vessels as extravagantly as possible.

With the finest craftsmanship, they carved mythical gods, brocade, silks, carpets and gold they were the sports car of the 1500s. That was until 1562 when the Venetian government passed a law stating that gondolas had to be painted all black with minimal ornamentation.

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The Tramontin boatyard (above) has carried out a number of prestigious conservation works for gondolas that were over 100 years old – including the oldest gondola in the world, belonging to the poet Robert Browning.The gondola is now kept at the Mariner’s Museum in Newport, Virginia.

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Inside the workshop is a shrine to the master gondola-maker, Domenico Tramontin, his photograph on the wall surrounded by memorabilia. He learned the art of gondola-making at the Casal ai Servi boatyards and would eventually make changes to the gondola that would revolutionise its performance.

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It takes two to six months to build a gondola and costs around ₏45,000, with only a handful made at each squero every year. It’s compulsory for a gondolier to know two foreign languages, the history of Venice, the rules of navigation and to understand the effects of weather and tides upon the city.

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The wood is still mostly worked by hand using the basic tools of the ancient art of Venetian boatbuilding – the axe, plane saw and hammer. They don’t use the decimal metre here. In Venice, it’s all about the Veneto foot. This is better suited to the dimensions and proportions of the gondola. The design of the stern of each boat is unique, as it has to take the weight of the gondolier into account.

Emirates launched its non-stop daily service to Venice in 2007. Emirates also became the only airline in the world to offer a water limousine airport transfer service, for First Class and Business Class customers arriving and departing from this city world-famous for its canals.

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Alex Hai (below) is said to be the first female gondolier in Venice.

Originating from Germany, she is a brash, confident and swaggers and sways when she walks – a result of 19 years spent rowing a gondola. She prefers a traditional style and therefore requires a traditional boat, which is made up of 28 pieces from eight different types of wood and weighing 700 kilos.

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Despite a four-year apprenticeship, it wasn’t easy for Hai to work as a gondolier. She has faced Italy’s fierce patriarchal system and come up against old traditions. Historically, the mantle of gondolier was one passed down from father to son and so, unable to obtain a gondolier licence, Hai sought a 2007 court adjudication allowing her to work as a private boat operator, which she has been doing successfully ever since. It’s clearly a job she loves. | 89 |

Walking the hill-tribe path

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WORDS & IMAGES: Mark Eveleigh

There was no getting away from it; I wasn’t going to eat well on this trip. And while Thailand is known for great cuisine, the absence of anything in the way of conventional cooking utensils suggests that this bush-meal, in remote frontier hills, is not likely to be one of the highlights of my trip to northern Thailand.

My two travelling companions are from the Lahu hill-tribe. Although times are changing rapidly for the Lahu, Timothy and Boaz are the inheritors of a nomadic tradition that came all the way from Tibet three centuries ago.

Timothy strides along the riverbank and in a few minutes I start to hear the brisk thunk of his machete hacking at a thick bamboo stem. Boaz gathers some firewood and, by the time it is crackling into flames, he has already converted a green sapling into supports and a crossbar for the fire. Timothy emerges from the jungle with a bamboo cooking pot (apparently it heats faster with the green outer skin shaved off) and an industrial-

sized pestle and mortar that would put the kitchen of a Michelin-starred restaurant to shame.

The meal of nasa labe (a succulent fresh fish), boiled in the bamboo pot that is plugged with fragrant leaves, is subtly flavoured with mountain herbs, green peppers, onion, garlic and coriander.

Chicken wings are barbecued on bamboo skewers and giant chillies are charred on the fire and then peeled and ground in the bamboo mortar, with more coriander, garlic and salt to make a delicious sambal accompaniment. Finally, three big wildbanana leaves act as a perfect picnic blanket while another section of bamboo makes an attractive casserole dish in which to serve this Lahu speciality.

This afternoon has been my first taste of Lahu tribal life and by the time I’ve finished the meal – Boaz peacefully smoking tobacco through an oversized bamboo water-pipe – I can understand why the Lahu have a preference for their traditional lifestyle. | 95 |

Nor thern Thailand is an area of craggy mountains, rolling like the scaly green backs of proverbial dragons. Some of the steepest peaks (the highest close to 3,000 metres) seem to rear straight skyward like serrated teeth – it seems appropriate that the nearest large town is called Fang. It is these looming ridges and deep, impenetrable valleys that have been responsible for the great number of different tribes and clans, each preserving its own language, customs and way of life, that inhabit this area. Thailand officially recognises six major hill-tribes but the reality is much more complex: in 1979 an Australian anthropologist listed more than 40 ethnic subgroups of the Lahu alone.

Most of the million Lahu people in the world today live in China but an estimated 10,000 live in the US, where they were given refugee status after having helped the Americans in what was called their ‘secret war’ in Laos. The fact that the Thais often refer to the Lahu

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Thailand officially recognises six major hill-tribes but a 1979 list cited more than 40 e thnic subgroups of the Lahu alone simply as muso (meaning ‘hunter’) might be a sign of their worth if you were looking for guerrilla fighters to ally with.

The so-called Golden Triangle of Burma, Laos and Thailand was once the world’s prime source of opium but it is no longer the dangerous place it once was.

Life is a lot more peaceful for the 60,000 Lahu who live in Thailand today than it was, even a few decades ago.

“My grandfather, Pumuen, was charged by the Thai government to maintain a border force as a buffer against communism,” says Yok Chaikor, director of the Lahu-run Phumanee Home Hotel.

“My father, Jafa Chaikor, was shot by crime lords in 1983 for the part he played in moving the Lahu people towards tea production instead of opium,” she adds.

Now my Lahu guides, Timothy and Boaz, are taking me to their tribal village in

the remote hills just a few miles from the Myanmar (Burmese) border. We arrive in Doi Pu Muen just as the tropical sun begins to burnish the tea plantations with the golden light of evening. These days tea is not only the main source of income but also a centre of tribal social life. I’ve been invited to stay at the house of Aje and his wife Nilu and, after slipping my shoes off to climb the steps into the stilted living quarters, I’m greeted with the first of countless glasses of cha.

The fact that this energy boost flows almost uninterrupted in Doi Pu Muen is a good thing because I soon realise that, by village standards at least, we’re in for a late night. By 8pm half the village is standing around a blazing fire while an endless chain of shadowy figures dance to the eerie tune of the nor pipe and the throb of the charo drum. The women’s dresses | 97 |

are delicately embroidered and beaded with silver coins and bells that shimmer like diamonds in the firelight. An hour later I’m clumsily trying to keep in step as we shuffle around the fire, kicking up wisps of golden dust.

We walk back to Aje’s house with the tropical sky alight with stars and the distant lights of Mae Ay town shining up from the valley. “We call that the stars on the earth,” says my host with typical Lahu poetry.

We sleep on a mattress on the slatted bamboo floor of the main living room and are woken early by the cacophonous din of a traditional village. Working life here gets underway long before the Asian sun has a chance to make its power felt, and by 7am the ladies of the house are already out carefully selecting the most succulent tea-leaves from the crop on the hillsides. Sure-footed as mountain-goats,

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By 8pm half the village is standing around a blazing fire while an endless chain of shadowy figures dance to the eerie tune of the nor pipe

they make their way across the slopes, fingers browsing expertly, plucking only the choicest leaves. After the baskets are emptied and the leaves spread out in the sun, the next step is to char them slightly on the big wood-fired steel basin. It’s humbling to realise how even a heavily laden bag of fresh-picked leaves will finally diminish into a tiny heap of prepared tea.

I’m fast realising that northern Thailand is not the place to be if you don’t like tea. Two days later I’m sipping still more steaming cha in another timber hut while Arlepha Apamo tells me about life in the Lisu hill-tribe.

“In our language ‘Li’ means tradition and ‘Su’ means people,” he explains. “Therefore we’re known as the people of tradition.”

The Lisu are the most colourful of the hill-tribes – known to many Thais as the ‘flowery Lisu’ – and are known as talented artists, working elaborately in silver and painstaking textile embroidery. They recognise countless styles of needlework and a real connoisseur can pick out styles with names like tiger-chest, snake-belly and dog-tooth. The men wear brightly coloured pantaloons and black tops whereas the women wear dark Chinese| 99 |

style pants and vivid tunics that can be decorated with coins and tiny bells.

Like the Lahu, the Lisu are said to have migrated south from the Tibetan plateau but, whereas the stilted villages of the former are often found on the steepest slopes, the ground-standing homes of the latter typically occupy flatter terrain.

“In our way of speaking these houses are said to ‘straddle the earth’,” says Siriyaphon Beaksa. Known to her friends as Som, she is the vivacious manager at the lovely Lisu Lodge, a community project that combines four exquisitely laid-out guest-houses with a unique opportunity to experience the traditional life of her tribe.

Among their many other talents, the Lisu may be the world’s fastest builders: traditionally a house had to be built in a single day with the whole community arriving to help and the women supplying

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the food and drink as sustenance for the workers. These days, with cement replacing timber and corrugated iron replacing the traditional thatched roofs (so great for insulation) times have changed and building projects tend to stretch a lot longer.

Next to Som’s village is the neighbouring Akha community. Yet another of the celebrated hill-tribes, these people are struggling to find their place in the modern Thailand while at the same time respecting and preserving the traditions of their

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forefathers. It is said that an Akha male should be able to recount his genealogy back over 50 generations to the first Akha, Sm Mi O. Perhaps the least integrated of all Thailand’s hill-tribes, the Akha are extremely tenacious in following what they call the Akha Zang (the Akha Way).

“We’re Thais now as much as anyone else,” says Som. “But we all – whether Lisu, Lahu or Akha – must remember where we came from and who we are.

It’s good that people from the outside come to visit us: they’re showing our

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young people that the baseball hats and hiphop they see on TV is not the only thing to aim for. What we have is something precious. Something that should be preserved and protected.”

Backyard Travel’s four-day northern Thailand tour includes a trek to Doi Pu Muen Lahu village (staying with a local family), a night at Lisu Lodge and a cycle tour around Chiang Mai and surroundings. Prices from US$650 per person based on two sharing (including private air-conditioned vehicles, most meals and English-speaking guides). backyardtravel.com

CHIANG MAI Chiang Mai means ‘new city’ yet its royal history dates back to 1296 when it was the capital of Lanna Kingdom. Even today the ancient city – surrounded by defensive moats – is still a regal frontier in the heart of Thailand’s highest mountains (700 kilometres north of Bangkok). The city is said to boast 300 temples and while the old citadel, with its irresistible markets full of hill-tribe produce, is easily explored on foot, one of the best ways to experience the beauty of the surrounding rice paddies and forests is by bicycle.

PAI It is famously quoted that there are exactly 762 curves between Chiang Mai and the highland town of Pai. It is also frequently reported that Pai is a sleepy, peaceful mountain town that is the secret beautyspot of northern Thailand. In fact, these days there is hardly anything secretive (or very much peaceful) about Pai. Since the town was used as a location for a famous Thai movie (Pai In Love) in 2009, Pai has become a vastly popular Asian tourist draw-card with a lot of sights that focus largely on the kitsch and cutesy imagery of the famous chick-flick.

Emirates has a codeshare agreement with Bangkok Airways, which operates 31 routes to 24 Asian airports. Emirates customers travelling on Bangkok Airways will enjoy the same luggage allowance they are entitled to on Emirates, checked through to their final destination.

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Essential news and information from Emirates Seattle and Boston double daily

Inside Emirates

Route Map

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SEATTLE And boSTon doUbLE dAILy

Emirates recently added a second daily service from Dubai to Seattle Tacoma International Airport (SEA); and on October 1, flights to Boston’s Logan Airport will also increase to twice a day.

The increased number of flights provides more connections from the US to Emirates’ vast and growing network of destinations in Africa, the Middle East, the Indian Subcontinent, Asia and beyond.

Emirates launched flights to Seattle just over three years ago and has since flown more than 600,000 passengers on the route. Boston, which launched in 2014, has been a popular route, with the

aircraft increasing from a Boeing 777200LR to a larger 777-300ER just four months after the star t of operations.

Emirates’ Skywards Members can earn and redeem miles with Alaska Airlines' Mileage Plan and JetBlue’s TrueBlue.

Alaska Airlines’ flights offer connectivity to points across the United States such as Portland, Anchorage, Honolulu, Billings, and Boise as well as into Canada including cities such as Vancouver, Edmonton, Victoria, and Calgary. From JetBlue’s hub in Boston, connections can be made to more than 47 destinations including Baltimore, Detroit, Philadelphia, Fort Lauderdale and Tampa.

InCREASEd CAPACITy To UGAndA Emirates will upgrade its services to Uganda, with the deployment of larger aircraft on the daily Dubai to Entebbe route from October 1, 2015.

The Boeing 777-200LR will replace the current Airbus A330-200 used on the route, and increase the total number of seats across all cabin classes by 12 percent, offering eight private suites in First Class, 42 lie-flat seats in Business Class and 216 seats in Economy Class.

Emirates began catering to the Ugandan market back in March 2000, with a thrice weekly service linked with Nairobi, and later with Addis Abba, until it was delinked in 2007 and became a direct daily service between Dubai and Entebbe.

The Boeing 777 is the backbone of the Emirates fleet and very popular with customers. Travellers can look forward to world famous service from Emirates’ multi-national cabin crew, including Ugandan nationals, enjoy over 2000 channels of on demand entertainment on ice, as well as gourmet cuisine and generous baggage allowances, with 50 kilograms for First Class, 40 kg for Business Class and 30 kg for Economy Class customers. | 104 |

SECond GATEWAy FoR IRAn

A new service to Mashhad, Iran starts this month on September 1, establishing Emirates’ second gateway into the country.

Passengers are now able to select from five weekly flights, operated by an Airbus A330-200 aircraft. In addition to passenger operations, Emirates SkyCargo will offer 17 tonnes of cargo capacity each way between Dubai and Mashhad.

Mashhad is the second largest city in Iran and attracts more than 2 million foreign visitors per year.

Due to its proximity to Central Asian countries, Mashhad hosts numerous international exhibitions each year and is the second most active exhibition centre after Tehran.

The country also has 17 UNESCOregistered world heritage sites and plans to boost its total Travel and Tourism contribution to GDP to USD $8.9 billion by 2024 (7.5% of GDP), according to the World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC).

Emirates services to Mashhad depar t on Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday from Dubai as EK967 at 4.10am arriving at Mashhad International Airpor t at 7am. The return flight, EK968 depar ts Mashhad International Airpor t at 8.45am and arrives in Dubai at 10.45am.

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DouBling uP in lisBon Emirates will start a second daily service to Lisbon, Portugal from January 1, 2016.

The flight will offer travellers a convenient afternoon flight from Dubai to Lisbon helping to link customers in Australasia, East Asia, South Africa and West Asia with the Portuguese capital.

Boasting over 800 kilometres of Atlantic coast, medieval castles and scenic villages, Portugal continues to see strong growth across its tourism sector. In particular, visitor numbers from across the Far East continue to grow with China, Japan and Korea earmarked by the country’s tourism board, Visit Portugal, as being key markets for growth.

Emirates currently flies to 37 cities across Europe, offering more than 65 flights per day across the continent. The growth in services to Lisbon follows the recent announcement of Emirates as shirt sponsor for the city’s Benfica Football team until the end of the 2017/18 season, underscoring its commitment to Portugal.

The new flight, operated by a Boeing 777-300ER, leaves Dubai as EK 193 at 2.40pm each day and arrives in Lisbon at 7.20pm.

The return flight, EK 194 departs Lisbon at 9.00pm and gets into Dubai at 8.45am the next day.

neXt stoP BamaKo mali From October 25, Emirates will be connecting with Bamako, the capital and largest city of Mali.

As one of the fastest growing cities in the world, Bamako has a population of about 2.3 million people.

Not only is Mali one of Africa’s top gold producers, it’s also the location of four UNESCO world heritage sites, which are the famous city of Timbuktu, the Old Towns of Djenne, the Tomb of Askia and the Cliff of Bandiagara.

The city marks Emirates’ 28th destination in Africa and will be linked to Emirates’ four times weekly service to Dakar, Senegal.

Operated by an Emirates Airbus A340-300, it offers 12 luxurious seats in First Class, 42 deep reclining seats in Business Class and 213 spacious seats in Economy Class.

The flight to Bamako will depart Dubai on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 7.20am and arrive in Bamako at 1.10pm. It will then depart Bamako at 2.40pm and arrive at Dakar at 4.30pm. The return flight will depart Dakar at 6.00pm and arrive back in Dubai at 7.30am the next morning.

get to your gate on time

Don't miss your flight Please make sure you get to your boarding gate on time.

Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.

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Be There in Glasgow Q&A with Emirates Globalista, Nimeet Meet Nimeet, a music lover who works in the Emirates reservations department in Mumbai. He’s one of seven Globalistas taking you to new experiences around the world as part of the Be There campaign

What are your first memories of listening to music?

I was three years old and my dad bought me a small synthesiser. That’s when I started loving music. I used to randomly play the keys on it and, just to keep my interest, my dad played the rhythm on the table and my mother used to sing.

What does music mean to you?

I don’t see myself without music. I have always dreamt of being a musician or a singer and it has always helped me in every way in my life. I find a lot of peace when I sing, compose or just listen to music; it connects me to myself.

Tell us about your trip to Glasgow It’s a very beautiful place with lovely people and music. The scene there is definitely eclectic. There’s so much music in that city, and people there are so musically inclined.

Everyone from small kids to adults enjoys music there, which is so inspiring.

If I had to pick one moment, it would definitely be the bagpipe session. It was really fun learning that instrument. I loved that the most because I tried learning an instrument which I’ve seen and heard, but never touched or tried playing ever before.

You learned how to play the bagpipes?

Oh yes! It was very difficult. Nothing about that instrument was what I thought

and we ended up laughing out loud whenever I played. It made funny sounds as I was not playing it in the right manner and not hitting the right notes. I always thought it was just like any other wind instrument where you just blow normally and play, but it’s not. To learn the bagpipes initially you need to learn the practice chanter (a reed woodwind instrument).

When you get the basics right, you get upgraded to the actual bagpipe – and trust me, you need to have very strong lungs to hit the right note and constantly blow the bag with the same force. I went breathless after a while!

There were lots of buskers on the streets of Glasgow – have you ever tried singing for your supper?

I sing part time back in India for small prewedding functions or small parties, but I’ve never done street music yet. Maybe you’ll see me doing some street music on my future Be There trips.

I met and interacted with a lot of buskers during my trip and their love for music is immense. In fact, one of the buskers I met on Sauchiehall Street was on his lunch break and just came to play his accordion for 20 minutes before going back to work. I mean, for me he was an inspiration, a person who is dedicated and

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passionate about what he does. I met a bagpipe player on Buchanan Street and he has been playing street music for almost 10 years. He was someone, like me, who wanted to play music all his life.

What musical destination are you looking forward to most on your travels?

I’m looking forward to Morocco. This place has always interested me for its music. Most of the time I listen to Indian, Bollywood and Pakistani Sufi music, and I’ve heard that the Sufi music in Morocco is quite different to what I’ve heard back in India. So I want to explore the difference. I’m also looking forward to Addis Ababa. I love playing rhythm and percussion as well, and African music is full of beats and rhythms, so it will be nice jamming in Ethiopia as well.

To follow Nimeet and get ideas for your adventures, go to emirates.com/BeThere or follow #BeingThere

Watch the Be There Travel Series on ice Digital Widescreen. Go to Lifestyle TV or choose channel 1257.

OPEN SKIES FOR IPAD

Search for Open Skies on the App Store

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RHINOS IN DANGER

Listen in for more - Emirates World is on channel 1500 in Radio & Podcasts on ice Digital Widescreen

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INFOGRAHIC: LIz RAmOS-PRADO. SOURCE: WWF

This month on ice, tune into Emirates World and hear Emirates’ president, Sir Tim Clark, speaking about how Emirates is supporting United for Wildlife, a new organisation working to eliminate poaching. Find out more at unitedforwildlife.org but here are some stark facts about rhinos‌

Your home in Dubai

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Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957 Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

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EmiratEs and a380 – a lovE story The A380 has captured the imagination of flyers across the globe and Emirates has been at the forefront of the plane’s rise in popularity with a special relationship that continues to flourish Words: jamie Knights

As of January 1, 2016, all eight of Emirates’ daily flights to London (Heathrow and Gatwick) will be served by the airbus a380. not only does the news cement emirates position as the largest operator of a380s into the english capital, it also highlights the incredible relationship between emirates and this very special aircraft.

Let’s first take a look at some of the figures.

Emirates currently has 67 A380s in its fleet with 76 pending delivery. There are 35 destinations that benefit from the carrier’s A380 service with 55 airpor ts visited to date. As of July 23 this year, there have been 47,200 return flights carrying 42.5 million passengers.

The A380s have flown 632 million kilometres by 1,165 pilots and expertly staffed by 15,463 cabin crew.

The numbers are impressive, but they don’t explain why the aircraft has become an aviation superstar. You can put that down to the larger-than-life size, its unique look and feel and the unofficial celebrity endorsements that come gushing its way.

There’s also, of course, the sheer logistics behind it all – how does an aircraft this size actually fly?

Of course other commercial aircraft have captured the imagination in the past, most notably Concorde. But Concorde was the reserve of the fortunate few who could afford to board the supersonic jet and who needed to get to a limited number of destinations.

That’s not the case with the A380, which can carry large volumes of passengers on routes across the globe, giving people a chance to experience the incredible sight of this giant of the skies gracefully going about its business.

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This is thanks largely to Emirates’ championing the aircraft from the very beginning. In fact it was actually the first airline to order the A380, and in 2000 ordered seven with five options – which was seen as quite a brave move at the time. While others consolidated, unable to picture filling such large planes, Emirates made its move and evolved into a global player.

“With its large capacity and excellent operating economics, the A380 is one of the pillars of Emirates' future growth, says Adel Al Redha, Executive Vice President and Chief Operations Officer, Emirates. “Our A380s are specifically deployed on high density routes where extra capacity is needed and have been well-received by passengers. With its increased capacity, the aircraft also helps to ease congestion at certain airports, while ensuring a reduced environmental impact.”

Of course if passengers don’t enjoy the experience on-board then it will always be a struggle to fill seats, but it’s not just those in Business and First who receive an exceptional service, with films, TV shows, music and games through ice, the airline’s award-winning inflight enter tainment system as well as free Wi-Fi connectivity and gourmet cuisine. It’s such a comfortable and enjoyable experience that customers actually seek out the A380 when booking flights, especially those looking to add luxury to their flight experience.

When the A380 was first marketed to carriers, campaigns were focused on volume of passengers, but it was Emirates who realised the potential and pushed the lounge experience, introduced the world’s first in-flight Shower Spa for First Class passengers and made full use of the lower deck, even redesigning the hat racks to give the cabin a more spacious feel. Ultimately Emirates focused on the customer experience across all classes. The aircraft is now central to promoting new destinations to which it flies, adding that special mixture of awe and excellence that passengers crave.

“As the world’s largest operator of the A380, Emirates is proud to continue to expand the number of destinations served by this flagship aircraft,” continues Al Redha. “It offers passengers in all three classes a superior travel experience thanks to the

unique cabin features including the world’s only Shower Spas in First Class, the Onboard Lounge where First Class and Business Class passengers can socialise at 40,000 feet, our award-winning in-flight entertainment system with more than 2,000 ‘on demand’ channels, and free Wi-Fi.” Constant innovation, especially concerning engine efficiency, means the A380 becomes increasingly commercially viable. Even the most minor of alterations can have a significant impact on potential routes and load factors.

“Continuous enhancements have been made since we received our first A380, by the manufacturer as well as by Emirates in terms of our on-board product,” concludes Al Redha. “For instance our latest A380s have been fitted with even bigger high definition LCD TV screens to enhance the inflight entertainment experience.

We’ve also introduced new touch-screen tablets that allow passengers to control all their seat functions and movie selections with just one swipe. Small details, but all these add up to provide a great flying experience.

“Moving forward, we will see a continued aggressive delivery programme and by late 2017 we will have around 90 A380s in our fleet to support existing and new A380 routes.”

In lifespan terms, the A380 is only a teenager, but it has already taken the world by storm, and with the help of Emirates it looks set to mature into a leader and pioneer of future commercial travel, delighting passengers wherever it flies.

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EmiratEs a380 dEstinations Amsterdam, Auckland, Bangkok, Beijing, Brisbane, Copenhagen (as of December 1), Dallas, Dubai, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, Hong Kong, Houston, Jeddah, Kuwait, London Gatwick, London Heathrow, Los Angeles, Madrid, Manchester, Mauritius, Melbourne, Milan, Mumbai, Munich, New York JFK, Paris, Perth, Rome, San Francisco, Seoul, Shanghai, Singapore, Sydney, Toronto, Zurich

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ORLANDO As Emirates starts its daily flights to Orlando this month, enjoy our guide to the city and discover a destination greater than the sum of it's parks This family-friendly holiday destination in Florida is home to some of the most iconic theme parks in the world, with Walt Disney World Resort being the biggest name of them all. The House of Mouse plays no small role in drawing the crowds, and an estimated 50 million visitors descend on Orlando every year.

Orlando’s food offerings are thriving. The ‘locavore’ movement has well and truly taken hold, and there are some supremely talented chefs making the most of local, seasonal ingredients. If

you’re feeling active, rent a kayak and take a tour of Shingle Creek, the headwaters of the Florida Everglades. Alternatively, if you have the time to take a day trip out of the city, try wandering the walking trails of the nearby Ocala National Forest or go wildlife spotting at Wekiwa Springs State Park.

Finally, make the time to see Orlando’s cultural offerings and your enthusiasm will be rewarded with a range of galleries, museums, science centres and more.

EAT

STAY

DO

VICTORIA AND ALBERT’S To experience true fine dining in Orlando, book a table at the legendary Victoria and Albert’s.

Located in Disney’s Grand Floridian Resort & Spa, oldfashioned elegance is the name of the game at this glamorous restaurant. Wear your finest threads and blow the budget. It'll be worth it. victoria-alberts.com

WALDORF ASTORIA ORLANDO The Waldorf Astoria has everything you need for a family holiday in Orlando. You can drop the little ones off at the kids club before retiring to their day spa.

Alternatively, make the most of the Florida sunshine by lounging at the pool in one of the private cabanas or improving your swing at the on-site golf course. waldorfastoriaorlando.com

THE WIZARDING WORLD OF HARRY POTTER There are plenty of good reasons to visit the iconic Universal Studios Orlando, but if you had to pick just one it would be this. ‘Muggles’ can hop on the Hogwarts Express to travel between Diagon Alley at Universal Studios Florida and Hogwarts Castle. universalorlando.com

HAWKERS ASIAN STREET FARE Imagine the vibrancy, atmosphere and flavour of Southeast Asia’s street food stalls – that’s what you’ll get at Hawkers, a low-key, budget-friendly restaurant in Orlando. The best way to tackle the menu is to order a few sharing plates – try the chicken wings, bahn mi sliders and the tempura green beans to start. eathwakers.com

FOUR SEASONS ORLANDO The glamorous Four Seasons Orlando is the only central Florida hotel to receive the coveted AAA Five Diamond Award. It’s also the perfect spot for a romantic holiday in Orlando, with its luxurious spa, adults-only swimming pool and the Tranquilo Golf Club, with its Tom Fazio–designed course. fourseasons.com/orlando

VISIT ORLANDO’S BEST ART GALLERIES Orlando’s museums offer a welcome change of pace after the theme parks on offer in the city. The Orlando Museum of Art has some stunning 20th century works, including pieces by Andy Warhol, while the Dali Museum really is a must-visit for any fans of Surrealism. omart.org

RUSTY SPOON (NEW AMERICAN/ EUROPEAN) This popular downtown restaurant uses only the finest local ingredients. Chef Kathleen Blake serves up some of the best comfort food you’ll ever taste – think grits, braised lamb sandwiches and a decadent fruit cobbler with gelato for dessert. therustyspoon.com

DISNEY’S ANIMAL KINGDOM LODGE This resort is one of the most famous in Orlando, and one of the best to boot. You can’t help but fall in love with the resort’s main attraction: the wild animals.

More than 30 specie wander the surrounding grounds, including zebras, giraffes and gazelles. disneyworld.disney.go.com

DR PHILLIPS CENTER FOR PERFORMING ARTS Go and see a show at this newly completed venue. Featuring two performance spaces – the 2,700seat Walt Disney theater (what else) for Broadway shows and a 300-seater for smaller events, it’s a unique open space that is a must for any stop in Orlando. drphillipscenter.org

EMIRATES STAFF TIPS HIT THE JUNGLE "Glide across 259 acres of mangrove jungle and grasslands on Wooten’s Everglades Tour."

Patricia Breslauer Sales Manager Marine Market, USA

GO GATOR CRAZY “Head to Gatorland, a 110-acre theme park and wildlife preserve.

Go to marvel at the alligators and crocs or take a ride on the Screamin’ Gator Zip Line.”

Aiden Lizotte Airport Services Officer

EK29 departs Dubai International Terminal 3 (DXB) at 03.50am and arrives at Orlando International Airport (MCO) Terminal B at 11.40am local time.

The return flight, EK220 departs Orlando at 2.20pm and arrives in Dubai at 12.30pm the following day.

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C O M F O R T

WELLNESS IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips.

Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

WEAR GLASSES

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT

USE SKIN MOISTURISER Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

KEEP MOVING Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles.

This encourages blood flow.

DURING THE FLIGHT

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

• • • • • • • •

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• • • • • • • •

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WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN

FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99

V i s a s ,

q u i c k

c o n n e c t

Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr programmE. | 118 |

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Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow theSe StePS:

1

2

3

4

have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock the counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 119 |

U A E

S M A R T

G A T E

BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can scan your UAE Emirates ID card. If you have an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot

OK!

3

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan.

When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. | 120 |

• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • UAE Emirates ID cards • E-Gate cards

INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE ON YOUR DOORSTEP MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES: • • • • • •

Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic

Welcare Hospital Dubai Mall Meadows Mirdif Beach Road Corniche

• Mediclinic City Hospital • Mediclinic Ibn Battuta • Mediclinic Arabian Ranches • Mediclinic Al Qusais • Mediclinic Al Sufouh • Mediclinic Al Hili

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. UAE • SOUTH AFRICA • NAMIBIA • SWITZERLAND www.mediclinic.ae

MOH RY82023-31-3-15 Ad approval covers facility in UAE only

R O U T E

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M A P

R O U T E

M A P

NEW ROUTES: Mashhad: five-times weekly service starts September 1 Orlando: daily service starts September 1 Bamako: four-times weekly service starts October 25 Bologna: daily service starts November 3 Panama City: daily service starts February 1, 2016

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R O U T E

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M A P

R O U T E

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M A P

YOUR CONCRETE PRODUCT REQUIREMENT OUR PRODUCTION SYSTEM SOLUTION

ONE OF THE MOST ADVANCED TECHNOLOGICALLY EQUIPPED FULLY AUTOMATIC PRODUCTION LINES FOR YOUR COMPLETE RANGE OF CONCRETE PRODUCTS

AIR PURIFYING BLOCKS UV pollutant

(E.G.Nox)

clean air

TIO2

ILLUMINATED TECHNOLOGY

AIR PURIFYING TECHNOLOGY

Fujian Excellence Honcha Environmental Intelligence Equipment Co. Ltd

Head Office: 3-16B, Quanzhou Economic & Technological Development Zone, Quanzhou, Fujian 362005, China Factory: Xuefen, Huaqiao Economic Development Zone, Nan’an Fujian, 362300, China Tel. No: (86-595) 2249 6062 , 2249 6066, 2249 6070 | Fax. No: (86-595) 2249 6061 Web: en.honcha.com | E-mail: marketing@hcm.cn , enquiry@honcha.com

THE FLEET Our fleet contains 240 aircraft made up of 225 passenger aircraft and 15 cargo aircraft BOEING 777-300ER

Emirates is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft, which joined the fleet in 2005.

Number of Aircraft: 107 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-300

Since 1999, Emirates operates two and three-class versions of the 777-300.

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777-200LR

Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-200ER

In 2005, the Boeing 777-200LR set a new world record for distance travelled non-stop when it landed at Heathrow airport, London, after a journey of 21,601km (11,664 nautical miles) from Hong Kong - the long way round. Emirates received its first 777-200LR in August 2007.

Emirates’ first Boeing 777-200 joined the fleet in 1996.

Number of Aircraft: 6 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777F

Number of Aircraft: 13 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet | 128 |

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparablysized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

AIRBUS A380-800

Emirates has operated the A380 since 2008, and is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft.

Number of Aircraft: 67 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

AIRBUS A340-500

This ultra-long range passenger airliner was introduced to the Emirates fleet in 2003. This saw the launch of the First Class Suite which has since been rolled out on the Boeing 777 and Airbus A380.

Number of Aircraft: 1 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

AIRBUS A340-300

Similar in many respects to Emirates A330-200s, the A340-300 is equipped with four engines giving it an enhanced range.

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

AIRBUS A330-200

First added to the fleet in 1999, this aircraft operates predominately on shorter-haul routes.

Number of Aircraft: 18 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

BOEING 747-400ERF

Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers through end September 2015 | 129 |

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

K N O W L E D G E

DESTINATION How a city works. This month: Dubai

25% CLEANING THE BURJ KHALIFA It takes 60 cleaners on ropes and harnesses three months to clean the 24,000 windows in the Burj Khalifa with buckets of water and window wipers.

They only stop if the wind’s too strong, and when they finish they start all over again.

WHY DON’T DUBAI’S ROADS MELT? Most roads will start melting at a temperature of 50°C and above – otherwise known as a Dubai summer.To combat this problem,Tarmac in the UAE is made of special “polymer modified binders” which keep things solid up until around 80°C. Source: Road Surfaces Treatment Association

CRANE MIGRATION In 2005, around 25 percent of all the cranes on the planet were located in Dubai due to the immense amount of building work going on. By the time Expo 2020 opens its doors, it’s believed a similar number will be dotting the skyline.

Source: Chesterton Property Agents

98.8%

Source: CNN/BBC

IT’S A MAN’S WORLD Men make up three quarters of Dubai’s population, with an average of 313 males to every 100 females. It’s down to the influx of construction workers who leave their families at home.

WHERE DOES ALL THE WATER COME FROM? 98.8 percent of Dubai’s water comes from desalination plants, which strip the salt from seawater. Human waste is also converted into water, which is used for plants and greenspaces. source: Arabian Water And Power Forum

Source: Dubai Statistics Centre

WHY DOESN’T PALM ISLAND WASH AWAY? Most reclaimed land is reinforced with steel and concrete, Palm Island is just rocks and sand. To prevent it being washed away, engineers built a crescent breakwater structure around the island. At its base is a wall of sand 7.4 metres thick, which is protected by rocks weighing up to six tons each. These rocks interlock, like the pieces of a jigsaw puzzle, meaning they don’t need any concrete to stand strong. More impressively, there’s enough of these rocks to build two Egyptian pyramids.

Source: Netherlands: Royal Haskoning, Maritime Division

I’M SURE I CAN FIT

THE INTERNATIONAL MIX 83.7 percent of the population are expats. source: Pew Research

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BURJ AL ARAB DESIGN The Burj Al Arab’s sail design is brilliant, but it does come with a huge caveat.

Thanks to those curved walls, exactly 39 percent of the building is inhabitable.

Source: Council On Tall Buildings And Urban Habitat

yslbeauty.com Edie Campbell

THE EAU DE PARFUM