Open Skies | December 2014

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RADO HYPERCHROME COURT COLLECTION ENGINEERED IN MATT HIGH-TECH CERAMIC

Andy Murray

CONTENTS / DECEMBER 2014

66

Chef Daniel Boulud shares his favourite places to eat in Washington, DC

59 56 48

Enjoying Glasgow’s West End

Rapper Gracias reveals his favourite tracks

Our verdict on Raffles Istanbul

65

Talking movies with Dublin’s Lighthouse Cinema

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OPEN SKIES / DECEMBER 2014

75 69

Our comprehensive guide to St Petersburg

Visiting the new home of Dubai’s surf community

contents / December 2014

112

Casablanca To Fez

front (27) Calendar The Grid The Question The Street Skypod The Room

29 44 46 48 56 59

Consume BLD Mapped Local Knowledge Column

main (91) Into The Wild Our Man In.... Miami Casablanca To Fez The Journey Philly Food Trucks One Small Step For Man

63 66 69 75 83

briefing (159) 92 106 112 122 136 148

News Comfort Visas, Quick Connect & Quarantine Information UAE Smart Gate Route Map The Fleet Last Look

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Open skies / December 2014

160 172 174 176 178 184 186

edItor-In-CHIeF ManaGInG partner & GroUp edItor edItorIal dIreCtor GroUp edItor edItor desIGner sUB edItor edItorIal assIstant

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Gareth Rees gareth@motivate.ae Ralph Mancao ralph@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae

ContrIBUtors Mohammed Ahmed Ahli, Andrew Birbeck, Claire Bloomfield, Geoff Brokate, Gemma Correll, Kyler Deutmeyer, hg2.com, Melodie Jeng, Jamie Knights, Adrian Mourby, Louis Pattison, Robbie Porter, REM, Sandra Tinari, Marta Zaraska Head oF prodUCtIon S Sunil Kumar assIstant prodUCtIon ManaGer Binu Purandaran

General ManaGer, GroUp sales Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae

dIGItal developMent ManaGer Helen Cotton helenc@motivate.ae

GroUp sales ManaGer Jaya Balakrishnan jaya@motivate.ae reGIonal ManaGer aBU dHaBI Imane Eddinari Imane@motivate.ae

InternatIonal sales ManaGer Martin Balmer martin.balmer@ motivate.ae sales ManaGer Deep Karani depUtY sales ManaGer Amar Kamath

edItorIal ConsUltants For eMIrates edItor Hannah Burden Hamer araBIC edItor Hatem Omar depUtY edItor Andy Grant WeBsIte emirates.com InternatIonal MedIa representatIves aUstralIa/neW Zealand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au BelGIUM and lUXeMBoUrG M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com CHIna Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 GerManY IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, w.jaeger@imv-media.com HonG KonG/MalaYsIa/tHaIland Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, hemant@sonneymedia.com IndIa Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, ravi@mediastar.co.in sWItZerland, FranCe/ItalY & spaIn IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imm-international.com Japan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, all@tandem-inc.com netHerlands giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, giovanni@giO-media.nl tUrKeY Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com Usa Totem Brand Stories; Tel +1 4168475100, nicole.mullin@tc.tc

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts.

Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: emirates@motivate.ae

108,978 copies – June 2014

Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

EDITOR’S LETTER

W Gareth Rees, Editor

“UNFORTUNATELY, I HAVEN’T MANAGED TO SOLVE A CRIME WEARING A NATTY HAT, FOUGHT A DUEL OR GONE NOSE TO NOSE WITH A MESSERSCHMITT AT 40,000 FEET.” NOW AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD!

facebook.com/ twitter.com/ openskiesmagazine openskiesmag

hen I was eight years old, like most children, I wanted adventure.

I watched Indiana Jones, and I wanted to be an archaeologist. To be more precise, I wanted to be an archaeologist with a whip, a fedora, a leather jacket and a penchant for making outrageously silly decisions that always seemed to pay off. I wanted to eat monkey brains at the banquet table of a young raja, topple into a yawning hole full of snakes beneath the desert sands of Egypt, and gad about with Sean Connery in Nazi Germany. I also wanted to be Sherlock Holmes, D’Artagnan and a Second World War Spitfire pilot. You can’t say I didn’t have ambition. I have travelled to many countries and most continents. I have cuddled a lion, crashed into a tree in a hot air balloon over the Masai Mara (not my fault, I can assure you), run three marathons, taken the controls of a light aircraft, caught (with help from a couple of fishermen) a six-foot long sail fish and failed to abseil down a climbing wall.

But the closest I have come to following in Indiana Jones’ footsteps was when I savoured a leisurely stroll through the magnificent ancient city of Petra in Jordan. Unfortunately, I haven’t managed to solve a crime wearing a natty hat, fought a duel or gone nose to nose with a Messerschmitt at 40,000 feet.

I’m pretty sure Emirati photographer Mohammed Ahmed Ahli hasn’t done any of those things, either, but he did venture into the largest sand desert in the world with just his camera, a tent and a brave friend for company.

Mohammed planned his trip to Rub’ al Khali (the Empty Quarter) on the internet. He then spent almost every weekend for more than six months in the sand blanketed wilderness, the tremendous dunes towering over him, capturing the remarkable images we have featured in our cover story, ‘Into The Wild’, and the image on this month’s cover. The dedication that Mohammed displayed to capture these arresting images of nature is inspiring,

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ON THE COVER / Emirati photographer Mohammed Ahmed Ahli produced the impressive photograph on this month’s cover in the largest sand desert in the world, the Empty Quarter, where he spent the majority of his free time for six months capturing the selection of images we have published in this issue. We think you will agree the result was worth Mohammed’s exertion.

as are the images themselves, which, it is worth noting, have not been manipulated for extra impact.

Mohammed’s excursions into the Empty Quarter can definitely be classified as a bonafide adventure, worthy of Indiana Jones himself.

But Mohammed is not the only adventurer in this issue. We sent Geoff Brokate to Switzerland to go hiking with one of National Geographic’s Adventurers Of The Year, Sarah Marquis, who spent three years walking from Siberia to Australia solo (check out the video on our iPad app after you have read Geoff’s action-packed story). Meanwhile, Adrian Mourby drove from Casablanca to Fez in Morocco. We also celebrate the 45th anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing with a selection of before, during and after photographs, and Marta Zaraska reports on a culinary odyssey to Philadelphia, where she discovered an armada of food trucks dishing up some of the best grub in the city.

Enjoy the issue.

CONTRIBUTORS

SOME OF THE PEOPLE WHO HELPED CREATE THIS MAGAZINE

Claire has interviewed some of the biggest names in sport.

She has survived a one on one with Mike Tyson and won an accent contest with Usain Bolt. Claire has experience of both print and broadcast media, and her work has featured on Sky Sports and BT Sport, and in the The New York Times and countless sports titles. For this issue, she spoke to basketball star Dwyane Wade.

“For a sports fanatic and avid follower of the NBA, chatting to one of the finest talents in the history of the sport was a dream come true,” she says.

Geoff has travelled the globe interviewing and photographing inspiring people.

His projects have been published in numerous titles, including The Guardian and New Statesman. He has recently completed an exhibition at the UK’s National Media Museum depicting the surreal landscapes of Yorkshire. For this issue, Geoff flew to Switzerland to meet adventurer Sarah Marquis.

“I was excited to meet Sarah, but I didn’t quite know what to expect,” he says. “I thought she was going to be wild and rough, but instead I was greeted by a graceful woman with immense inner strength.”

LOUIS PATTISON

Louis has written about music, art, technology and youth culture for publications including Uncut, Guardian Guide, The Wire, FACT, NME and Vice.

His writing has been published in the books 1001 Songs, Black Metal: Beyond The Darkness and Late Century Dream: Movements In The US Indie Music Underground.

For this issue, he spoke to rapper Gracias about his favourite music.

“Born in the Congo but resident in Finland, Gracias is a reminder that modern hip-hop is a truly global form,” he says. “His album, Elengi, is moody, electronic and highly recommended.”

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MARTA ZARASKA

Marta is a Canadian freelance writer whose work has been published in The Washington Post, Newsweek and National Geographic.

She is currently working on a nonfiction book about humanity’s love affair with meat, Meathooked.

For this issue, she travelled to Philadelphia to sample some of the fine fare being served by the city’s many food trucks.

“I never thought food truck cuisine could be gourmet,” she says. “I enjoyed exquisite dishes, meeting the cooks and hearing their unusual life stories.”

OPEN SKIES / DECEMBER 2014

MELODIE JENG

Melodie began photographing people on the street in 2011.

Since then she has completed street style assignments for Style.com, Refinery29 and Details.com.

Melodie has a personal blog, thenycstreets. com, where you can see updates on her work and photographs from Fashion Week.

For this issue, she visited LA to shoot our ‘Last Look’.

“It was great to photograph in the sunny city of Los Angeles,” she says. “I went to the popular shopping area The Grove for the first time and spotted Maddie within minutes.”

IMAGE OF MARTA ZARASKA: ANKA GÓRAJKA

GEOFF CLAIRE BLOOMFIELD BROKATE

Moment The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

M AU R I T I U S R E U N I O N M A L D I V E S C H I N A U . A . E ( 2 0 1 6 ) | L U X R E S O R T S. C O M

West End, Glasgow The most exciting area of Scotland’s second city

(48)

front Washington, dc: Chef Daniel Boulud shares his favourite places to eat in the US capital dUBai: A new surf shop and café in the city’s Jumeirah neighbourhood

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66 75

His Highness General Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed Al Nahyan Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi Deputy Supreme Commander of the UAE Armed Forces ABU DHABI TOURISM & CULTURE AUTHORITY PRESENTS

Selections from the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi Collection 5 November 2014 - 19 January 2015 Manarat Al Saadiyat, Saadiyat Cultural District Abu Dhabi, UAE

S A A D I Y A T C U LT U R A L D I S T R I C T. A E

Otto Piene, H채ngende Lichtkugel [Hanging Light Ball], 1972 Perforated and chromium-plated brass sphere, chromium-plated brass spheres, light bulbs, and electric motor, 223.5 x 68 cm, Guggenheim Abu Dhabi

UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF

December

CALENDAR

Until December 30, Gothenburg, Sweden

Liseberg christmas market Until December 7, Paris, France

Salon du Cheval de Paris The 43rd edition of this prestigious horse show immerses attendees in all things equine, with more than 2,000 horses and 450 exhibitors packing the halls of Paris Nord Villepinte exhibition centre. Competitions this year include the World Arabian Horse Championship, Gucci Paris Masters CSI 5*, International Horse And Carriage Competition and the International Master Of Vaulting.

New for this year is a hall dedicated to horse breeding.

Each December, log cabins selling traditional and contemporary Christmas decorations and gifts are set up in this Swedish theme park to create the popular Liseberg Christmas Market. There are also plenty of food and beverage options, including hot chocolate and homemade sweets, as well as plenty to entertain the children, from fairground rides and the Medieval Village to Santa’s House and animals from Nordens Ark farm.

LiSEbErG.CoM

EN.SALoN-CHEVAL.CoM

Until may 31, Washington, DC, USA

the traveLLer’s eye

Held in the Smithsonian’s Sackler Gallery, The Traveller’s Eye exhibition features more than 100 pieces of art focusing on travelling across Asia. The exhibition features work created in the last five centuries, with highlights including five rare Chinese scrolls and a pair of Edo-period Japanese namban jin (southern barbarian) screens, which are gilded and more than 10ft wide.

ASiA.Si.EDU

December 1 to 6, Philippines

IPMS Philippines National Scale Model Competition The Philippines has had a vibrant scale model club scene since the late 1960s. This year fans of creating and painting scale models meet to battle it out at the 12th national competition. Held at the Glorietta 2 Activity Center, Ayala Mall, the models are always expertly crafted and you will be amazed by how much effort goes into building these impressive models. iPMSPHiLiPPiNES.CoM

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Open skies / December 2014

DECEMBER

CALENDAR

December 2 to 7, Tübingen, Germany

CHOCOLART FESTIVAL

More than a hundred of the world’s top chocolatiers take part in Germany’s largest chocolate festival, which features classes, lectures and, most importantly, tastings. Local restaurants also embrace cocoa with special menus highlighting the versatility of the ingredient, while global exhibitors show off their latest products and innovations.

CHOCOLART.DE

December 5, Newcastle, UK

An evening with Noel Fielding Award-winning comedian and TV personality Noel Fielding embarks on his first live tour in five years. The Mighty Boosh man will be sharing the stage with his brother, who played Naboo in the popular series, and other friends. Expect some favourite characters from the TV show, music and an eclectic wardrobe.

NEWCASTLECITYHALL.ORG

December 5 to December 7, Houston, US

DICKENS ON THE STRAND

December 5 and 6, St Moritz, Switzerland

St Moritz City Race

A ski competition with a difference, participants in the St Moritz City Race eschew the slopes in favour of a race through the town of St Moritz. Popular with celebrities, the race, which is the highlight of a celebration that also includes live music, light shows and plenty to eat and drink, marks the start to the St Moritz party season.

STMORITZ-CITYRACE.CH

Skypod

Gracias page 56 30

OPEN SKIES / DECEMBER 2014

Victorian fashion and entertainment abound in this festival and celebration of all things Charles Dickens. Everything from bagpipers to street carts selling food and drink support six stages worth of entertainment inspired by the writer, and Oliver’s Alley has been set up to keep the children entertained with games and workshops.

GALVESTONHISTORY.ORG

December

CALENDAR

December 5 to 8, Lyon, France

lyon FestIval oF lIgHts

What was a simple festival celebrating the Virgin mary with candles has transformed into an incredible light show with more than 70 installations across the city. While locals still place candles in windows, it is the artists’ displays that attract people from all over France and beyond. past installations can be viewed on the website.

FeTedeSLUmIeReS.Lyon.FR/en

December 6 and 7, Boston, US

Northeast Comicon With costume contests, games, signings and workshops, the Northeast Comicon provides the traditional fan favourites, but puts technology at the heart of everything. Voice actor Billy West, best known for his work on Futurama, will be at the event, as will Marky Ramone of Ramones fame, who is currently promoting his new cartoon about zombies, gangsters and lowlifes – an added incentive for music fans. pcx-necc.com

December 14, Hong Kong

Hong Kong InternatIonal races December 12 and 13, Sentosa, Singapore

ZoukOut

This beach-based electronic dance music festival is for those with the stamina to see the sun come up over the horizon. Now in its 14th year, SoukOut boasts top electronic acts from around the world, with Skrillex making his ZoukOut debut this year. More than 40,000 people are expected to party in front of the event’s two stages this month. zoUKoUT.com

mapped

St petersburg page 69 32

Open skies / December 2014

Horse racing is a popular pastime in Hong Kong, and the excitement reaches a pinnacle with the Hong Kong International Races. more than US$8 million is up for grabs across four races, as horses and jockeys from across the world head to the Sha Tin Race club, where the Hong Kong Jockey club ensures a day of racing and hospitality.

RacIng.HKJc.com

We are present in the folloWing countries: Albania, Andorra, Armenia, Bahrain, Belarus, Bosnia Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cuba, Cyprus, Czech Republic, France, Georgia, Greece, Hungary, Iran, Kosovo, Kuwait, Lebanon, Lithuania, Malta, Montenegro, Oman, Panama, Portugal, Qatar, Romania, Saudi Arabia, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey, UAE, United Kingdom. contact our agencies listed beloW for more information: for Bosnia Herzegovina, Kosovo, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, Slovenia: Primis Consult – info@pconsult.it for Croatia: Pianoforte Croatia d.o.o. - zeljka.dulkic@pianoforteholding.com for Spain: info@kuvera.es - for Greece: Yama Hellas S.A. - angela.ferentinou@inticom.it for Portugal: Corrêa & Terenas S.A. - mail@correaterenas.pt for all the other countries: international@carpisa.it YOUR CARPISA SHOP: Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Al Fujairah, Al Ayn, Manama, Salalah, Kuwait, Dammam, Jeddah, Riyadh

December

CALENDAR

December 18 to January 4, London, UK

WOrlD DArTS chAmpiOnShip

The world’s elite darts players will battle it out at London’s Alexandra Palace for the 2014-15 World Darts Championship crown. The action at the oche is surpassed only by the boisterous, fancy dress-clad spectators.

An electric atmosphere is guaranteed as prize money of more than gBP£1 million is contested by the 72 entrants.

Hospitality packages are available for those looking to make a real occasion of it. Not one for the fainthearted.

ALexANDrAPALACe.COm

December 27 to 29, goa, India

Sunburn Goa 2014 This electronic dance festival guarantees sunshine and the finest proponents the music genre has to offer. Last year’s early bird tickets sold out in four minutes with big names such as Tiësto, Hardwell, Afrojack, Swedish House Mafia, Nicky Romero and Avicii.

Acts confirmed for this year’s festival so far include Paul Oakenfold and Sasha.

SUNBUrN.IN

December 31, Stonehaven, Scotland

Open Air in The SquAre

Head to Stonehaven for Open Air In The Square where The Human League will be headlining a gig that includes Scottish folk band The Peatbog Faeries.

As part of the Hogmanay celebrations, locals also create fireballs that they swing around in a parade before throwing them into the sea.

December 30 and 31, mangawhai, New Zealand

Northern Bass

OAITS.Org

If you fancy being one of the first to experience 2015, and love bass heavy music, then head to Worsfolds Farm in New Zealand for your New Year celebration. Boasting drum and bass and jungle legends Andy C and Goldie, Ghostface Killah from the Wu Tang-Clan and Krafty Kuts, the line-up is impressive.

NOrTHerNBASS.CO.NZ

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A PI LOT ’S WATCH SH O U L D EN DU R E E VERY T H I N G T H E PI LOT DO E S .

The Bremont MBIII is not like other pilot’s watches. It’s built in collaboration with British firm Martin-Baker, the pioneers of the ejection seat.

At their test centre, the MBIII is strapped to the wrist of a crash-test dummy and shot out of the cockpit. Enduring forces of between 12G and 30G in the process. Then a vibration test simulates 30 years of continuous flying.

But this doesn’t mean the MBIII is built for endurance at the expense of performance. It’s a beautifully-engineered mechanical chronometer with GMT functionality, certified 99.998% accurate by COSC, the official Swiss testing institute.

WWW.BREMONT.COM

M BIII

Calendar

December 1, Dubai, UAE

Burj Al Arab’s 15th anniversary

Hotel manager Ammar Hilal details the triumphs and challenges of one of the most iconic hotels in the world, and how the property will be celebrating its 15th birthday

Describe the first 15 years of this iconic hotel.

It has been an amazing and exciting journey that started on the day Burj Al Arab opened its doors on December 1, 1999. Over the last 15 years we have offered each guest imaginative and exhilarating experiences in a culturally connected environment with thoughtful and generous service. We have sustained the momentum and are still the preferred place to celebrate special occasions. Also, we have been successful in catering to new and emerging markets, and make the guests feel at home. To a large extent this is thanks to having more than 70 nationalities working in the hotel, which means our colleagues are able to communicate with our guests in their own language. There were some challenging times when the

financial crisis occurred; however, we maintained our prices as we compete on quality rather than price.

Sustaining our prices meant we could continue to offer the high-end luxury experience that our customers desire and demand. From the day we opened the hotel we have continued to attract the most sophisticated clientele, who are interested in experiencing a product that is out of the ordinary. We are very versatile and therefore capable of catering to many tastes and pleasing the most discerning travellers.

What have been some of the most memorable moments?

The grand opening of the hotel when we hosted top VIP media from all over the world, key influencers and individuals who contributed to making the vision become a reality was the first memorable moment –

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the first of many. Then we pushed the boundaries by executing many out-of-this-world PR stunts, such as an Aston Martin landing on the helipad and Red Bull Formula 1 driver, David Coulthard, doing doughnuts on the same space.

Burj Al Arab is the symbol of Dubai for many people. How important has the design of the building been in promoting the emirate around the world?

In 1993, architect Tom Wright of WS Atkins took on the challenge of creating this ground-breaking superstructure and from the very beginning Burj Al Arab was planned and designed to become the icon of Dubai. Ever since its doors opened Burj Al Arab has watched Dubai’s transformation from a trading port to become one of the world’s fastest growing cities, and has contributed greatly to placing the city on the world map. From tennis stars on the helipad to impressive New Year’s Eve fireworks, the hotel has established its place as the most enduring and memorable landmark of Dubai. It was to be extravagant and luxurious, a reflection of its Arabic heritage and traditions of hospitality, a beacon to light the city’s future.

Have there been any challenges in those 15 years?

Maintaining the impeccable status of the interior and exterior design of the hotel as well as meeting and always trying to exceed the everincreasing expectations of today’s traveller has been the challenge.

Furthermore, maintaining smooth logistics when conducting on-going refurbishment and maintenance checks while still offering the most luxurious hotel experiences has been another challenge. Finally, attracting and retaining the right talent pool with the right mind-set and the right personality as the service culture is ingrained. The hotel has sustained the momentum and maintained its position as the world’s most luxurious hotel over the last 15 years despite the intense competition in the sector.

Calendar

How are you celebrating the anniversary?

There are going to be numerous events, exhibitions and packages to mark this special occasion.

On December 1 there will be a pyrotechnic 3D display on the exterior of Burj Al Arab and the hotel will host a grand cocktail reception on the beach. We will invite key VIPs, consulates, media – local and international – in-house guests, valued spa members, etc. An art exhibition will showcase 15 images going back to the start of construction (1993) and will show all the major milestones undertaken. We have also released our Best Of The Burj package, a signature dream package that includes Rolls-Royce Phantom return transfers, a luxurious suite, a six-course degustation dinner and signature spa experience. Further to this there will be a two-minute motion graphic viral video, which is an elegant animation that tells our story and the creation of the world’s most luxurious hotel. Other ways we are marking the anniversary include

the creation of a luxury golden stamp with our anniversary logo to serve as a signature, a statement and a graphic celebration. Burj Al Arab has enjoyed a partnership with Hermés since opening in 1999 and Hermés’ artists have created a special Burj Al Arab 15th anniversary card for us, and have designed a bespoke box that houses all the perfumes and colognes the property has featured over the past 15 years. And finally, as part of the Burj Al Arab’s commitment to giving back to the community, in partnership with Make A Wish Foundation, throughout 2015 the hotel will grant 15 wishes to children from around the world whose dream is to visit and experience the hotel. Burj Al Arab will provide accommodation and breakfast for a maximum of two nights for four people, and provide airport transportation.

What does the future hold for the property?

Our aim is always to surpass the expectations of our guests. We achieve this by maintaining a constant focus on innovation, asking

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ourselves at every stage ‘how can we make the guest experience even more outstanding?’ Much of our innovation happens at the service level, bringing in new options such as amenities specifically designed for children or the wedding in the skies service. The latter makes it possible for couples to hold their ceremony on the helipad, 212 metres above the Arabian Gulf, arriving by helicopter or Rolls Royce, with the full range of wedding services culminating in the most unique and carefully thought through romantic ceremony. Last year we launched the gold iPad, which has proved very popular with guests. After 15 years of delivering the very finest in Arabian hospitality, we expect the anniversary year to bring a further major innovation, which may see the hotel develop an exclusive beach stretching out into the Arabian Gulf. In the meantime, our remarkable team of colleagues listen closely to what our guests are telling us and continue to design unforgettable experiences for them. jumeirah.com

Calendar

Until December 6, Sharjah, UAE

Lasting Impressions: Noor Ali Rashid

Shamsa Rashid, daughter of famous photographer Noor Ali Rashid, talks about her father’s work, which is currently being exhibited at Sharjah Art Museum Why did Sharjah Art Museum decide to put on an exhibition of Noor Ali Rashid’s work?

Noor Ali Rashid was a pioneer in the field of photojournalism in the region and a passionate artist who gave six decades of his life to this profession. The country feels proud of his work and in a year when Sharjah has been selected as the Islamic Capital Of The World, the Sharjah Art Museum decided to honour him by presenting his work in this this exhibition.

What can visitors to the exhibition expect?

The exhibition is divided in three sections. The first section, A Profile Of Life, will take the visitors on a romantic and nostalgic journey through life in the region during the 1950s and ’60s. The second section, Building A Nation, is a visual history of the modern day UAE. The final section, A Glimpse Of The World, represents selection of photographs taken from his travels to 35 countries.

It is the largest retrospective of my

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father’s work ever exhibited, and we hope that people of all backgrounds will find something in it to enjoy.

What was it like curating your father’s work?

It was both exciting and challenging.

As a daughter, it was my way of paying tribute to my father and his lifetime of work. However, as you can imagine, selecting 200 photographs from an archive of a million and building cohesive themes that could do justice to his art was not an easy task. But it all came together beautifully in the end.

Your father was the royal photographer to the ruling families. What do you think their reaction will be to this exhibition?

Very positive. My father was close to them and many of them knew him growing up and had a very special place in their hearts for him. The members of the royal families who have visited the exhibition so far are

Calendar touched and happy to see his work live through this exhibition.

What do you think your father would have made of the exhibition?

I am sure he would have been proud and happy. He was the country’s most prolific and well-known artist.

To have his work be viewed and studied by so many people who loved him and so many that he loved, would have brought him a lot of pleasure. He wanted his legacy to be preserved, to be seen and enjoyed for generations to come.

Do you have any particular favourite photographs in the exhibition?

His photographs at a glance look so simple yet when one looks at them closely, they tell intriguing stories.

He had a great sense of humour and an eye for the unusual. So there are many photographs in the exhibition that I love and they connect with me and probably with most viewers at an emotional level. It is hard for me to pick just a few from this amazing collection.

What are your memories of your father at work?

Always with a camera, always on self-imposed assignments, never missing the chance to capture a moment, an image or a memory.

Have you been inspired by your father’s work?

My father was a visionary. He knew that things would change.

His egalitarian approach to his art, driven by a single-minded focus to capture and document moments in life of people and history, is inspirational. I am also inspired by his passion and commitment to the art of photography. When we set up the project Noor Ali Rashid Archives in 2010, he was 80 years old. He would sit with me for endless hours discussing the significance of certain photographs and their context. He was so passionate about his work that when he could not carry heavy cameras, he learnt to use a digital camera during the last week of his life and took photos from it just 18 hours before closing his eyes. What a life he lived! I wish and hope that I

am lucky enough to be blessed with a life like that.

How has technology changed the art of photography in your opinion?

I think it has brought the art of photography to the masses and has fundamentally changed the way we view, evaluate and experience photography. I believe that this is a general truth for all of the fields in visual arts.

What do you hope the public will feel after having visited Lasting Impressions: Noor Ali Rashid?

I hope that they will feel the passion that my father brought to his art of photography and his incredible determination in documenting the culture and history of our country and this region.

Will there be other exhibitions of your father’s work in the near future?

Yes, of course. I see his work as being not only of regional interest, but also of international interest.

Allowing people to understand the richness of our culture through visual art and documentary is an important goal for the archives. We hope that we will be able to do these exhibitions not only in the region, but also across the world. sharjahmuseums.ae

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THE GRID December 4 to 6 Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens Dubai, UAE

THE THREE BIGGEST EVENTS TAKING PLACE IN THE UAE THIS MONTH...

It has been 45 years since the greatest annual sporting event in Dubai kicked off. The Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens continually delivers the best rugby, costumes, entertainment, food, drink, competitions and activities in the emirate. This year’s Sevens boasts a record number of teams from around the world. dubairugby7s.com

December 10 to 17 Dubai International Film Festival Dubai, UAE

December 12 Creamfields Abu Dhabi, UAE

The 11th instalment of the Dubai Film Festival promises the most comprehensive schedule to date, with a week of screenings, forums and awards. Highlights include the screening of Oscar-nominated director Bennett Miller’s Foxcatcher, which stars Steve Carell and Channing Tatum. dubaifilmfest.com

Hardwell, Afrojack, Adam Beyer and Marco Carola headline Creamfields dance music festival at Abu Dhabi’s du Arena this month, with many more international and regional DJs also booked to entertain the crowds during the nine-hour event. Innovative. ticketmaster.ae

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the question

WHY DO SOME PEOPLE HATE SPIDERS? The fear of spiders, or arachnophobia, is one of the most common phobias in the world. But what is it about this, more often than not tiny and non-venomous creature, that has secured a spot in the human psyche as the animal kingdom’s public enemy number one?

It is more understandable in parts of the world where venomous spiders hide in your shoes, but arachnophobia is more prevalent in Europe, where the spiders are small and not at all dangerous.

Native Americans, on the other hand, revere the spider as a symbol of wisdom and good luck.

But some believe that spiders were blamed for the plague, or the Black Death, as it was known, in Europe. With a reputation as a harbinger of death, it is little surprise arachnids were feared, even though the real culprits were rats carrying fleas. Among psychologists and scientists there is disagreement about whether

we have an innate issue with spiders thanks to a history where spiders were far more of a threat to our existence. In the Journal Of Experimental Child Psychology in 2010, a report detailed how children would detect a spider before a cockroach. What has also been discovered is that those with arachnophobia have an exaggerated sense of the size of a spider, and will believe it to be closer to them than it actually is, compared to someone who has no issues with spiders. But the thing to remember is the spider is more than likely far more scared of a human. You may only have two legs and two eyes, but to a spider you are the size of a skyscraper.

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TWITTER Q&A Madinat Theatre explains its Christmas show in 140 characters or less @OpenSkiesMag: It’s Madinat Theatre’s 10th anniversary this year. Why did you choose Alice In Wonderland to celebrate it? @MadinatTheatre: Alice in Wonderland is loved by so many generations! We thought this would be the ideal show for our 10th Birthday! @OpenSkiesMag: You [Joseph Fowler] are both the manager of Madinat Theatre and the director of this show. Why did you take on the extra responsibility? @MadinatTheatre: I have been directing shows for many years and enjoy this creative process. This will be my 2nd production this year. @OpenSkiesMag: What can people expect from your Alice In Wonderland? @MadinatTheatre: Magic!

Beautiful costumes, stunning sets and a top notch cast of first class artists! A fantastic show for all the family! @OpenSkiesMag: Who will be performing in the show? @MadinatTheatre: We have a cast of principle artists from London & Canada - alongside them we have an ensemble of outstanding local talent @OpenSkiesMag:You have worked with local students on this show, haven’t you? Tell us about that. @MadinatTheatre: I am an avid promoter of locally based talent. The ensemble is a group of incredibly talented students from @DiverseChoreo @OpenSkiesMag: We’re looking forward to the show. When does it open? How long does it run for?

How can people get hold of tickets? @MadinatTheatre: Alice In Wonderland runs from 19th - 30th Dec. Tickets are available online here: madinatjumeirah.etixdubai.com

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the street

West End, Glasgow Words by Gareth Rees / Images by REM

The East End of the city, the location of the Athletes’ Village for the 2014 Commonwealth Games, has been the focus of the world’s media this year, but the area of Glasgow – once the second city of the British Empire – every visitor should stay in is the West End. Centred on the much applauded Byres Road, where many of the area’s most feted restaurants, bars, cafés and shops can be found, the West End has long been home to both the affluent, who occupy its striking sandstone townhouses, and students and staff from Glasgow University, which was designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott, and is one of the institutions most associated with the West End. But beyond Byers Road, the area also encompasses the vast and lovely Kelvingrove Park, Glasgow Botanic Gardens, Kelvingrove Art Gallery And Museum and numerous other streets and neighbourhoods alive with independent shops, restaurants, bars and cafés, including Finnieston, the heart of the West End’s food culture; Gibson Street, close to the park and the university; and the lively Ashton Lane, home to The Grosvenor Cinema and the famous Ubiquitous Chip restaurant.

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Open skies / December 2014

Artisan Roast Artistan Roast’s founder, Michael Wilson, who takes coffee seriously, has expanded to Malaysia, but the brand’s home is Scotland, where there are three branches: the original branch on Broughton Street, in Edinburgh, opened in 2007; a pop-up turned permanent location in out of the way Bruntsfield Place, also in Edinburgh; and this cosy café, which serves the best coffee on Glasgow’s Gibson Street. Artisan Roast, as the name implies, roasts its beans on the premises, and is dedicated to sourcing the best quality beans, as well as training its staff properly and fostering a genuine passion for all things coffee. The result is expert baristas who take pride in their work and are able to make recommendations and answer any coffeerelated queries you might have. The coffee is superb. There is also a menu of dishes created using locally sourced organic produce.

15-17, Gibson Street, Kelvinbridge, Glasgow, Scotland Tel: +44 7776428409 artisanroast.co.uk

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Open skies / December 2014

the street

Ubiquitous Chip Owner Ronnie Clydesdale opened the Chip, as its staff and patrons fondly call it, on Ruthven Lane in 1971, with the aim of introducing Scottish cooking to a Glasgow public sadly lacking in restaurants celebrating Scotland’s culinary heritage. Clydesdale moved it to its current home, a former undertaker’s stables on the cobbled Ashton Lane, in 1976, and it is now one of the most famous and lauded enterprises in the city. Boasting three bars, a roof terrace, brasserie and fine dining menus, and a handsome open-air courtyard, as well as numerous artworks and murals by distinguished figures such as artist and writer Alasdair Gray and artist Michael Lacey (both regulars), it would be a crime to visit the West End and not patronise the Chip.

Order the venison haggis (served since 1971), order the caramelised lamb sweetbreads, order the pea and mint velouté – in fact, order anything. You won’t be disappointed.

12 Ashton Lane, Glasgow, Scotland Tel: +44 (0) 141 334 5007 ubiquitouschip.co.uk

Stravaigin One of the best-known establishments in Glasgow’s West End and a Gibson Street institution, Stravaigin, which has been awarded with both Michelin’s Bib Gourmand status and two Rosettes from The A A Guide, covers all bases when it comes to food and drink. If you’re looking to enjoy a casual long lunch or dinner, the upstairs

café bar has you covered with a menu that ranges from its awardwinning haggis, neeps and tatties to nasi goring, served up with a pint of speciality ale, a dram of whisky, a cocktail or one of the many wines by the glass on offer.

The café bar is also open for breakfast and weekend brunch.

Downstairs is a more formal restaurant, offering a menu that features dishes such as

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Open skies / December 2014

Moroccan spiced mackerel fish cakes, roast horse mushroom and aubergine baklava and spiced caramel pineapple, coconut and lychee sorbets. Both menus celebrate Scottish produce, without restricting themselves to Scottish recipes.

28 Gibson Street, Kelvinbridge, Glasgow, Scotland Tel: +44 (0) 141 334 2665 stravaigin.co.uk

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the street

Crabshakk Specialising in fresh, high-quality Scottish seafood served with little embellishment, Crabshakk, which opened in 2009, has been so successful that it has inspired many new restaurant and bar openings in the vicinity, making Finnieston’s Argyle Street a culinary hotspot. The

brainchild of founder and architect John Macleod, a well-known figure on the Glasgow restaurant scene, Crabshakk, with its cramped but contemporary white-tiled interior and young staff, has garnered attention both nationally and internationally – the epitome of the stylish,

Ox And Finch A recent addition to Finnieston, Ox And Finch is the latest restaurant to open in the neighbourhood, which has established itself as a big draw for food lovers in the past few years. Its contemporary bistro stylings – booth seating, exposed brick, paper place mats, dishes served on slate and wooden boards – fit right in, and Jonathan MacDonald’s (formerly head chef with the McLaren racing team) food has

garnered some enthusiastic reviews. Seared scallops, chorizo and sweet corn, blowtorched miso salmon tataki, confit duck and Thai yellow curry, hanger steak, Jerusalem artichoke and shitake mushrooms: just reading the menu is enough to make your mouth water.

920 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow, Scotland Tel: +44 (0) 141 339 8627 oxandfinch.com

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Open skies / December 2014

cool, modern Glasgow.

Be warned, it is tiny, and popular, so it’s definitely worth making a booking.

1114 Argyle Street, Finnieston, Glasgow, Scotland Tel: +44 (0) 141 334 6127 crabshakk.com

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the street

Kelvingrove Park Created in 1852 by renowned Victorian landscape designer Sir Joseph Paxton – also responsible for London’s Crystal Palace – Kelvingrove Park is 85 acres of undulating greenery on the River Kelvin surrounded by some of the city’s best-known institutions, including Glasgow University and Kelvingrove Art Gallery And Museum. The park is home to numerous monuments,

Offshore Offshore, open since 1999 – although new owner Elvira Hughes only took over earlier this year – is popular with students and staff from nearby Glasgow University. With the tagline ‘Social Coffee In Glasgow’, it is a more traditional café than its Gibson Street neighbour Artisan Roast, with the focus firmly on creating a laidback atmosphere, rather than singing the praises of single origin coffee or rhapsodising about a well-made cappuccino. The coffee is not as good but, located on the corner of Gibson Street, right beside

as well as a bowling green, a croquet lawn, a skate park and the newly renovated bandstand and amphitheatre, originally erected in the 1920s, which now hosts open air performances. At the height of summer, the park is populated by West End residents lolling on the grass, walking their dogs or simply taking a pleasant stroll through what is a truly beautiful public space.

the River Kelvin, Offshore’s large street-facing windows make for a bright interior and present an opportunity for people watching. The downto-earth crowd-pleasing menu includes pastries, scones, toast and porridge for breakfast, as well as an assortment of snacks, including sarnies, bagels, baked potatoes and homemade soup.

3-5 Gibson Street, Kelvinbridge, Glasgow, Scotland Tel: +44 (0) 7912894795 offshore-coffee.co.uk

The Shop Of Interest Opened by artist and designer Martin Grubb and May McGurk, a silversmith who works at Kelvingrove Art Gallery, The Shop Of Interest is a small art and crafts boutique on Argyle Street in Finnieston. If you plan to spend a day casually exploring the West End, you should definitely pop in and browse its stock of original art, prints, jewellery, fashion items, furniture and trinkets created by various local artists, jewellers and designers. If you’re looking for a gift for a friend or loved one, or a unique memento from your trip to Glasgow, look no further.

1058 Argyle Street, Finnieston, Glasgow, Scotland Tel: +44 (0) 141 221 7316 theshopofinterest.co.uk

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Open skies / December 2014

skypod

GRACIAS GENRE: Hip hop AGE: 27 CITY: Helsinki

Congolese-Finnish rapper Gracias released his second album, Elengi, in May. He shares his favourite tracks

01.

02. 03. 04.

Talib Kweli Good To You

Beck Loser

Nas Represent

I picked up his album, Quality, randomly in a record store and it’s gone on to be one of my all-time favourites. It’s classic New York hip hop, and my introduction to Kanye West’s genius production style.

I grew up in a multicultural environment and words like ‘alternative’ and ‘folk’ didn’t really mean anything to me. Loser caught my attention because of its weird music video and rapped vocals – I immediately knew this was good music.

If Nas’ Illmatic is the greatest 40 minutes in hip hop history, the song Represent is one of its brightest crown jewels.

A gritty but beautiful portrait of the streets.

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Open skies / December 2014

Gil Scott-Heron & Jamie xx Running Jamie xx provides banging production, and Gil’s deep voice tone and spoken word is mesmerising. It’s one of those odd couple projects that really worked.

05. 06. 07.

08.

Zoo Kid Out Getting Ribs

Arthur Verocai Na Boca Do Sol

Stevie Wonder Too High

Little Dragon Twice

Arch Marshall is my favourite alternative artist discovery since 2010. His voice and talent is undeniable.

He’s extremely versatile, with a great understanding of genres.

He’s a Brazilian guitarist I came across while digging for perfect sample loops. I used a portion of this song on my debut EP, and his music has found a permanent place in my playlist.

A track from Stevie’s classic 1970s album Innervisions. It’s got the jazz, the funk, the real instruments – all combined it sounds like heaven.

Simply beautiful. You’re carried along by Yukimi Nagano’s silky voice while the bass pounds at your heart. I feel confident when I say this song will be timeless to me.

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OPEN SKIES / DECEMBER 2014

gracias.fi

the Room

tExt: GaREth REEs ImaGEs: RaFFlEs IstaNbUl

ROOm 2102

RaFFlEs IstaNbUl

Raffles Istanbul has only been open for a few months, but, as anyone walking into the stately lobby will realise, the five-star property is set to become one of Istanbul’s iconic hotels. The property is part of the Zorlu Centre, which also encompasses a high-end shopping mall and international restaurant brands including Tom’s Kitchen and Jamie’s Italian. Raffles Istanbul asserts its class with Arola, a modern Catalan restaurant by Michelin-star chef Sergi Arola; Writers Bar, a cosy niche in which to enjoy a classic cocktail; the larger and busier Long Bar; Rocca, the impressive all-day-dining restaurant; the rooftop Pool Bar & Grill; and the magnificent Raffles Spa. The Urban Suite is a room of such high calibre that, if Istanbul weren’t one of the world’s greatest cities, you would not want to leave it. The large terrace, the view of the Bosphorus and the Bosphorus Bridge, the marble bathroom, the walk-in closet, the Eames Lounge Chair and selection of art books, the eschewing of international interlopers in favour of Turkish wine in the mini-bar – the vital ingredients to a first-class hotel suite. raffles.com/Istanbul

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INTERNET: Free Wi-Fi BED SIZE: King PILLOWS: Four (more available on request) COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS: Free mini-bar (excluding alcohol) TOILETRY BRAND: Ortigia EXTRAS: Nespresso machine, coffee table books, Raffles butler service TV CHANNELS: 113 RATE: from approximately EUR3,000

THREE NEW HOTEL OPENINGS

the Room

SOFITEL DUBAI BURJ DOWNTOWN Dubai, UAE

With a blue-mirrored façade and sharp angles, Sofitel Dubai Burj Downtown is a 350-room property making a statement next to the world’s tallest building, Burj Khalifa. Restaurants include an Asian-inspired concept as well as the now mandatory steakhouse. The air-conditioned walkway to The Dubai Mall and Dubai Metro is convenient. sofitel.com

EXCELSIOR HOTEL GALLIA

WYNDHAM GRAND JUPITER

This property first opened as a hotel in 1932, but is opening its doors once more following a full renovation by Marco Piva. With its art deco façade and luxurious interior all curated from Italy, additional highlights include the expansive spa as well as Italy’s largest four-bedroom suite, the Katara, measuring 1,000 square metres.

Located on Harbourside Place, the 179-room property boasts the second blu seafood grille concept in the country. The property also boasts 15,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor event space that can be tailored to individual needs. The rooftop pool provides fantastic views out over the water, while rooms with balconies offer views of the coast.

starwoodhotels.com

wyndham.com

Milan, Italy

Florida, US

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consume albums

ROCK OR BUST AC/DC

Hard rock Australian rock legends AC/ DC’s 15th international studio album is their first since guitarist Malcolm Young left the band due to illness earlier this year. The album was recorded at Warehouse Studio in Vancouver, Canada.

A BETTER TOMORROW Wu-Tang Clan

Rap There were rumours of a new album in 2011. Now, artistic differences have been put aside, and Cher has reportedly provided vocals for two of the tracks the on iconic rap collective’s A Better Tomorrow.

III Take That

Pop The British pop group’s first album since the release of Progress in 2010 is their first as a trio. Jason Orange left Take That earlier this year.

IT IS TIME FOR YOU TO RETURN Jozef van Wissem

alternative Dutch lutenist Jozef van Wissem’s latest album features guitarist Jim Jarmusch and Yasmine Hamdan on vocals.

books

THE WORLD ALMANAC AND BOOK OF FACTS 2015 Sarah Janssen

Non-Fiction First published in 1868, this book of facts has been updated to include the events of 2014. It covers science, politics and need to know information, and more than 82 million copies have been sold since its inception.

WRESTLING FOR MY LIFE Shawn Michaels

sport The second biography by wrestling legend Shawn Michaels is a follow-up to Heartbreak And Triumph, which was released in 2006. The book includes fresh insights and Michael’s discusses his final WWE matches.

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THE STRANGE LIBRARY Haruki Murakami

Fiction For the first time The Strange Library will be available in English (it was published in Japanese in 2008). Ted Goossen translated the now illustrated book, which features brain-eating and a doughnut-making sheep man.

consume THE CINEMA

Light House Cinema

FILM GEEK / Light House Cinema’s chief programmer Charlene Lydon (above) watches at least one film a week

We hear you’re a self-confessed ‘film geek’ who lives by the premise of ‘a movie a week’. Tell us about your latest choice.

Did it live up to expectations?

I’d almost say a movie a day, or not far off. Part of my job is going to the major film festivals, so I’m lucky enough to catch some really early screenings of the big awards films alongside the exciting ‘sleeper’ indie films. One I’d been really excited about that didn’t disappoint was Dan Gilroy’s Nightcrawler, an excellent film noir that totally delivered. I also really loved Damien Chazelle’s incredibly tense and brilliant Whiplash, a film about drumming that plays like a thriller – wonderful.

A career in the arts is a notoriously difficult path to take.

Any words of advice for those wanting to follow that dream?

It is a long and winding road, but in the arts it’s essential to keep going and going and not give up. I worked for free, I did internships, I maintained a blog – anything to just keep my passion for film evolving. You need a little bit of luck to get your foot in the door, but when opportunity knocks, just grab it.

Light House Cinema re-opened in 2012 after a much-publicised closure. How have you and your colleagues re-invented Light House, and does it still see itself as having a social and political role in post-Celtic Tiger Ireland?

The closure of the cinema really felt like a blow to the city and was symbolic of the recession. Since we re-opened there’s been a tremendous amount of goodwill towards us from the people of Dublin. I think in return we try to give Dublin a unique space in which to enjoy films. We aim to keep bringing diverse films and film-related events to Dublin and give people a fun social environment in which to enjoy and discuss them.

You run the Cinema Book Club at Light House. Sounds fascinating. Tell us about it. What’s on the reading list right now?

I wanted to create a social energy to Light House and liked the idea of a film discussion group, so a book club seemed perfect. Each month we choose a book that has been adapted into a film, encourage people to read it, then we watch the film. Then there’s a very informal post-screening chat in the bar facilitated by my colleague Chelsea Morgan Hoffmann and I, when we all discuss various facets of the adaptation. This month it was Lolita. Nothing could have prepared me for how disturbing that book is, and it was fascinating to see how Kubrick managed to tell the story in a way that pacified the censors.

Last but not least, which movie character do you identify most with?

For some reason, though I’m not sure why, it’s Enid from Ghost World – another favourite film of mine – although I don’t think I’m very much like her. Maybe it’s because she’s constantly struggling to keep herself unique and not to allow the world around her to become boring. Now that is truly inspiring. lighthousecinema.ie

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ImAges: LIgHt House CInemA

Dublin, Ireland Questions: Andrew Birbeck / Answers: Charlene Lydon, chief programmer, Light House Cinema

BLD

Washington, DC

ImAGe: DBGB KItChen AnD BAr

Chef Daniel Boulud, who recently opened DBGB Kitchen And Bar in Washington, DC, reveals his favourite places to eat in the city

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B

l

d

BREAKFAST

LUNCH

DINNER

Mark Furstenburg is a long-time friend and a master of the art of bread-making. He was one of the first bakers in DC to make bread the European way and, of course, being French, I always enjoyed going there to get a good baguette.

Bread Furst Bakery is not in the centre of DC, but it is a destination in itself. I don’t usually eat pastries for breakfast, but when I am in DC and I want a pastry, I go here. The pain au chocolat are the best, but also the homemade scones, and the tea and espresso, too. I always buy a Palladin loaf to pay homage to Jean-Louis, Washington’s first great chef and a mentor to all of us.

Every city has a great ramen shop, and for me Daikaya is DC’s.

The Sapporo-style ramen soup is excellent, and the bar is a fun place to slurp it. But what I really love about Daikaya is that it is two restaurants in one. Upstairs is an izakaya, a Japanese tavern, with Japanese style tapas, which are creative and delicious. Making two concepts work in one space is not easy to do, but the three owners – Yama Jewayni, Katsuya Fukushima and Daisuke Utagawa – make it work flawlessly.

Everyone is talking about Rose’s Luxury, and it’s easy to see why.

My executive chef at DBGB in DC, Ed Scarpone, agrees it holds up to the hype. It has a casual and comfortable atmosphere with excellent drinks and menu. Chef Aaron Silverman says he’s just getting started, and I’m excited to see what comes next. As a chef you have to keep evolving, challenging yourself and your team to be creative and inspired every day.

Bread Furst Bakery 4434 Connecticut Avenue NW Washington, Washington, DC Tel: +1 202 7651200 breadfurst.com

Daikaya 705 6th Street, NW Washington, Washington, DC Tel: +1 202 589 1600 daikaya.com

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Rose’s Luxury 717 8th Street, SE, Capitol Hill, Washington, DC Tel: +1 202 580 8889 rosesluxury.com

mapped SEDAWATTA

Vyborgskaya Petrogradskaya

Chkalovskaya

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Chernyshevskaya

10

Vasileostrovskaya

13 12 09 07

15

03

06 06

08

14

11

02

04

05 01

Spasskaya

Mayakovskaya

Sankt-Peterburg-Viteb

Hotels:

St Petersburg

1. Corinthia Hotel (59.932037, 30.350755)

Restaurants:

Bars:

Hotels:

5. Palkin (59.932553, 30.34729)

9. Russian Vodka Room No. 1 (59.9371497, 30.3251246)

13. The Hermitage (59.939832, 30.31456)

2. BelmondRussia’s Grand Hotel Europe second (59.935478, 30.33043)

14. The Russian 10. city’s Stackenschneider 6. Francesco city is also its cultural capital. Explore the stylish bars and clubs, where the Museum (59.938592, 30.332221) (59.943432, 30.32393) (59.939822, 30.377879) young set stay out late; dine in world-class restaurants; and set aside time to wander its neoclassical 15. Erarta Museum 11. Bar 812past – and its creative present.

Mansardamonument to Russia’s glorious 3. Taleon Imperial HotelSt Petersburg is a7.living streets.

(59.9356965, 30.318388)

(59.932836, 30.303469)

(59.935502, 30.352132)

(59.932118, 30.25139)

4. Rocco Forte Hotel Astoria (59.9327518, 30.3092657)

8. Kokoko (59.93902, 30.351303)

12. miXup Bar and Terrace (59.934955, 30.308615)

16. Peter and Paul Fortress (59.950002, 30.316672)

HOteLs 01. Corinthia Hotel 02. belmond Grand Hotel europe 03. taleon Imperial Hotel 04. rocco Forte Hotel astoria

restaurants

bars

GaLLerIes

05. Palkin 06. Francesco 07. Mansarda 08. Kokoko

09. russian Vodka room no 1 10. stackenschneider 11. bar 812 12. miXup bar and terrace

13. the Hermitage 14. the russian Museum 15. erarta Museum 16. Peter and Paul Fortress

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mapped

HOteLs 01 corinthia Hotel Overlooking central Nevsky Prospekt, the Corinthia Hotel is truly palatial in scale. Occupying a 19th century heritage building, the venue exudes elegance.

If you’ve got some downtime, relax at the on-site spa, or even register for a Russian cooking masterclass. corinthia.com

great city / St Petersburg was swampland before Peter The Great built the Peter And Paul Fortress (pictured) in the 18th century and turned it into one of the greatest cities in Europe

02 Belmond grand Hotel europe A 130 year-old grande dame, the Belmond is an icon of St Petersburg luxury. With a caviar bar, a salon and designer boutiques, there’s no shortage of indulgences here. Dine at the hotel’s historic restaurant, L’Europe, where art nouveau and haute cuisine come together. belmond.com 03 taleon imperial Hotel The Taleon Imperial Hotel doesn’t just look like a palace – it is actually housed within the former Eliseev Palace. As such, humility isn’t the order of the day: once host to Catherine The Great, the hotel drips with Versailles-style gilt, chandeliers, and damask. taleonimperialhotel.com 04 rocco Forte Hotel astoria Stay at the hotel that Rasputin was once known to frequent? But of course. Since 1912, the Rocco Forte Hotel Astoria has drawn guests (some more savoury than others) with its art nouveau interiors, well-appointed rooms, and, these days, its pampering spa. roccofortehotels.com

restaurants 05 Palkin Founded in 1785, Palkin is officially St Petersburg’s oldest restaurant. Come to soak up its traditions: in seats where Chekhov and Dostoyevsky dined, guests sup on smoked sturgeon, drink the finest wine and listen to the tinkling keys of the grand piano. palkin.ru 06 Francesco Arkady Novikov is Russia’s most prolific restaurateur, and yet most of his efforts are focused on Moscow.

Head to Francesco, his lone St Petersburg outpost, for refined

02

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Italian cooking among the city’s stylish elite. ginza.ru 07 Mansarda Top-floor Mansarda is all glass and sleek furnishings, its sweeping windows giving way to extraordinary views of the adjacent St Isaac’s Cathedral. Inside, chef Dmitry Bogachev leads the kitchen in fine dining staples, like truffle risotto crowned with beef tartare. ginza.ru 08 Kokoko Don’t let the knowledge that Kokoko was founded by the frontman of a Russian ska-punk band sway you: although its paper menus and black chandeliers lend informality, Kokoko is an elegant operation. Inside, you’ll find a menu that glorifies modern Russian cuisine. kokoko.spb.ru

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GaLLErIEs

bars 09 Russian Vodka Room No 1 A trip to Russia without vodka is like going to the Caribbean and skipping the beaches. Head to Russian Vodka Room No 1 for a taste of the city’s best; you’ll find a menu of 213 bottles, many unheard of outside Russia. Caviar is served alongside. vodkaroom.ru 10 Stackenschneider Stackenschneider is as close as St Petersburg comes to hipster. The third-floor club is named for a famed Russian architect; its neonlit bar looks like it was designed by Mondrian and its late night parties attract international house and trance DJs. stackenschneider.ru 11 Bar 812 If it’s serious cocktails you seek, Bar 812 is a favourite local staple.

Belly up to the copper bar and ask for something custom. Odds are your drink will come with a side of fireworks (expect smoke, torches and other spectacles). bar812.ru

12 miXup Bar And Terrace miXup may well proffer the city’s best rooftop drinking. There are cabanas in which to lounge and sparkling cocktails served up alongside splendid views of St Isaac’s. If all that works up an appetite, it’s worth remembering that Alain Ducasse is behind the bar snacks. mixupbar.com

14 The Russian Museum With more than 400,000 artworks, the Russian Museum, founded by a decree from Czar Nicolas II, has among the world’s best collections of Russian art. Within the Mikhailovsky Palace, browse masterworks by artists such as Ilya Repin and Kasimir Malevich. rusmuseum.ru 15 Erarta Museum Fatigued of gilded splendour? The Erarta Museum, Russia’s largest contemporary art collection, offers a visual respite from all the opulence. The focus here lies on Russian artists working from 1945 to today, with over 170 represented across 2,300 works. erarta.com 16 Peter And Paul Fortress Set within St Petersburg’s original citadel, the Peter And Paul Fortress is at once the burial ground of the Russian Imperial family, a museum, and also a past military base. The on-site cathedral is a must-see. spbmuseum.ru

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Words:hG2.com imaGes: Getty

culTuRAl cAPiTAl / the hermitage (pictured) is one of the oldest and largest museums in the world

13 The Hermitage One of the largest museums in the world, and also one of the oldest and most opulent, the Hermitage makes for spellbinding viewing. Galleries of glittering gold, artefacts from Antiquity and millions more works would take days to explore in full. hermitagemuseum.org

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LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

Surf House

Surfing and stand-up paddle boarding are taking off in Dubai, and Surf House is at the epicentre of this laidback beach culture in the emirate

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n the mid-1970s, Dogtown’s Z-boys introduced surfstyle skating to California’s streets. Almost 15 years later, and a world away, that tide was turned; skateboarders returned to the sea, and surfing found the blue waters of Dubai.

Words and images by Sandra Tinari

“We became surf crazy,” says Scott Chambers, remembering his transition from skating the city’s streets to gliding on waves.

The Brazilian expat had brought surfboards to Dubai after visiting family in Brazil. “In the 1980s and 1990s, surfing was a very

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underground thing in Dubai. At first it was just my brother and me; people couldn’t figure out what these new kids were doing.

It eventually grew to a core crew of us,” he says.

Almost 30 years later, this young surfing ‘grommet’ has turned

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LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

eclectic mix / Surf House counts people from all walks of life among its clientele

his love of Dubai’s beaches into a thriving business, Surf House.

Part retail and café concept store, and part members’ club, it rests at the heart of the city’s sea culture, welcoming people from all walks of life: tourists and residents, beginners and seasoned professionals.

Sitting in the Surf House café, Scott is surrounded by retro

skateboards and surfboards as he talks of his passion for the sea and for the bustling Surf House.

“The Surf House is perpetually filled with an eclectic mix of surfers, paddlers, yogis and coffee connoisseurs. Surfing is fascinating in the way it attracts people from all walks of life, from lawyers and engineers to musicians and artists.

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People from potentially polar opposite backgrounds are able to mix and relate through a common love and respect for the ocean environment,” he says.

The vision for Surf House began to emerge in 2005. After Scott gained a Bachelor Of Surf Science at university in the UK, he returned to Dubai and started

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE anywhere that has waves needs a surf shop offering surf lessons to tourists from the back of his old Jeep. It has now grown to a nine-strong team and a two-storey location near Umm Suqeim’s Sunset Beach.

“The Surf House is like nowhere else. An epicentre for good vibes and a mix of several different concepts under one roof.

It’s a surf and stand-up paddle shop, selling both new and secondhand equipment. It’s a surf and SUP training school, we provide certified instruction, as well a rent a range of equipment, all suited to Dubai’s conditions.

“But, it doesn’t stop there, the Surf House is also a coffee shop, dedicated to using the best ingredients and serving a range of healthy fresh juices and coffee

blends, while our yoga studio offers several different styles of yoga to suit all needs and tastes, and we also run surf conditioning classes.”

While Umm Suqeim is not a typical retail location, Scott explains there was no other choice for his business.

“Umm Suqeim has always been a special place to us, as we grew on the beaches here learning to surf.

My elder brother was actually the one to name the famous Sunset Beach. With fun waves and a stunning backdrop of the Burj Al Arab, Sunset Beach has now become the most famous surfing and stand-up paddle beach in the UAE. That’s why we’re here.

“We’re also not your typical retail shop. You don’t have to buy a surfboard or T-shirt to come and hang out. The core of our business is rooted to the physical practice of the sports themselves, so this location was the best place to facilitate people actually doing these sports on a regular basis. We

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have always felt that proximity to the water is key.”

But, seriously, waves in Dubai?

“Surfing is the most fun thing you can do,” Scott says. “Anywhere that has waves needs a surf shop.

Come down to Sunset Beach on a day there is some swell and you’ll see exactly why we have a surf shop here. Dubai is home for us and the waves of the Arabian Gulf.

“However, the Surf House doesn’t just cater to surfers.

We believe that the sea has an extraordinarily positive impact on people’s lives. So we cater to anyone wanting to experience this effect.

Our mission has always been to put people in the water more often.

Even if you have never surfed or paddled before, the Surf House is there to provide the information, environment and equipment to introduce you to these sports in a surf’s sup / Surf House also caters to Dubai’s many stand-up paddle board enthusiasts

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

surfers’ paradise / Surf House is a business, but it is also a welcoming home away from home for the city’s surf community

safe and fun way. And if neither of those are for you, well, then, we are just as happy for you lounge at the Surf House, have a coffee and enjoy the perpetually good vibes.”

For coffee lovers, the Surf House serves coffee roasted by Dubai’s renowned RAW Coffee Company, with the specialty ‘Surf House Blend’ the most popular among Scott’s customers. A range of own-range blended fresh juices are also on offer, while after a long day at the beach, he recommends the Redeemer, the café’s signature iced coffee.

Already a multifaceted concept store, the Surf House is set to expand, adding a music studio, The Surf House Sessions, above the café and retail store.

“We are very excited to be launching The Surf House Sessions.

Inspired by a wealth of musical talent in Dubai, musicians will be invited to record their acoustic live tracks right here in the Surf House.

Keeping it acoustic and by the beach, we felt this was an element that would support the music community and make the Surf House an even more unique space.

It’s being designed in line with our Surf House style, very organic and raw with all natural woods and materials. We have a look and feel; we felt we needed a sound.

“We will be opening it up to musicians, who would like to record their acoustic performances and possibility onto our Surf House Sessions mix tapes. We’ll also be collaborating with our resident videographers from Yeti & Big, to launch a video channel of the performances. It would be awesome to have musicians

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such as Jack Johnson or Donavon Frankenreiter play here.”

As the popularity of surfing and stand-up paddle boarding, as sports and lifestyles, grows among visitors and residents, there’s hope that watersports tourism will continue to expand in the Gulf, and that the Surf House will remain the home of beach culture on Sunset Beach.

i have always loved what dubai stands for “I have always loved what Dubai stands for and the direction it’s heading in. Our core values of creativity, healthy living, and respect for the environment are in line with the vision of this city,” Scott says. surfingdubai.com

COLUMN

WHY ISN´T THERE MORE WOMEN´S SPORT ON TV?

Sportswriter Claire Bloomfield argues that women’s sport is overlooked, under-valued and undercapitalised by television stations 83

Open skies / December 2014

COLUMN

more coverage / Japan defender Kana Osafune at the 2014 Asian Games. The women's game gets more coverage in Japan, according to Professor Simon Chadwick, Chair in Sport Business Strategy And Marketing at Coventry University

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ports fans all around the globe are still being inspired by the thrills of the successful London 2012 Olympic Games two years after the spectacle came to an end, but it seems that despite the feel-good factor the competition generated, it is yet to wake up the potential commercial players in women’s sport.

A staggering 61 per cent of sports fans in the UK say they want to see more women’s sport on TV, and 70 per cent of viewers for women’s events are in fact male.

Male sports fans similarly account for the majority of conversations about female Olympic athletes on social media outlets. It may also come as a surprise that the UK’s leading sportswomen often outperform their male counterparts on the international stage.

But a study by the Women’s Sport And Fitness Foundation

shows that women’s sport currently receives less than five per cent of the total sports press coverage.

Even though extensive rights are available at a comparatively low cost, women’s sport is “over-looked, undervalued and under-capitalised”.

The low levels of commercial investment are a critical problem for women’s sport, with broad health, social and economic implications, as Ruth Holdaway, CEO of Women’s Sport And Fitness Foundation, explains.

“Media coverage and commercial sponsorship are two sides of the same coin. Increased media profile is crucial in order to drive public interest and commercial sponsorship of women’s sport.

“However, we also have a need for commercial partners to invest in understanding the women's market and working with rights-holders to develop more events that will appeal to broadcasters and fans.”

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Holdaway adds, “Having positive, active role models is crucial if girls and young women are to be inspired to lead physically active, healthy lives. We need to get this right for the health and wellbeing of future generations of women.”

Sponsorship, funding and commercial deals help generate grass-roots sports programmes that increase the opportunity for participation, creating a bigger demand from women to play sport, which ultimately feeds into the elite level of the game.

Attracting women to sport and inspiring them to take part is without a doubt one of the toughest challenges for modern society, but there simply aren’t enough professional female athletes that have financial backing from big name brands to market their image and success.

Professor Simon Chadwick, who holds the position of Chair in Sport

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COLUMN

Grant, explained Business Strategy ultimately, how she is already And Marketing trying to bridge at Coventry it's up to the gender gap.

University Business broadcasters “Ultimately, School, believes to choose what it’s up to the that, “We are in the broadcasters to midst of a change in they show choose what they sponsorship; while show, and the global reach is still sports, of course, an important factor need to think of in determining innovative ways sponsorship to attract sponsorship,” says Grant. property selection, sponsors “But following London 2012, I think are increasingly thinking in terms the appetite for women’s sport has of target market and partner fit.

This is where women's sport should certainly grown, and companies thinking about sports sponsorship see an opportunity as, clearly, should remember that. there are some markets and some “The likes of [the] BBC, Sky products that are dominated by Sports and BT Sport are all actively female purchasers.

“What is needed in female sport promoting and broadcasting is something akin to Amazon getting women’s sport and sports shows, people out of stores and buying which is really encouraging. The books online, i.e. if women's sport BBC introduced its Women’s Football cannot compete with men's sport to Show last year, looking at the biggest secure funding, then its governors issues in the women's game, and Sky and administrators need to think Sports’ launched its Sportswomen more innovatively about how to programme last October." deliver the female sport product.”

“We want to see more coverage Also, the UK’s Minister For of women’s sport on television, radio Sport And Equalities, Helen and in the press,” Grant continues.

success story / The Women's National Basketball Association is in its 18th season

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“I have urged all the major broadcasters to do more, and have held a number of meetings with broadcasters, journalists and women leaders in sports administration to look at how we can all improve coverage further. But there is of course more that can still be done.”

WSFF’s research carried out following the success of the London 2012 Olympic Games found that three quarters of respondents agreed that an increase in media coverage of women’s sport was important to the legacy long term.

A spokesperson for BBC Sport said, “We believe we have a vital role to play in ensuring coverage of women’s sport is widely available on free-to-air television as well as radio and online.

“We have been in a strong position in recent years, particularly in covering both the summer and winter Olympics as well as the 2013 European Football Championships, to bring women’s sport to the fore and to audiences of millions. This is something we relish and want to continue to develop for a long time to come.”

It’s clear the broadcaster have ambition to shape the future of women’s sport and the volume of content already aired or published on their platforms suggests our female athletes can count on their support going forward.

“The BBC has always been a loyal supporter of women’s sport and we are always looking at new ways to increase coverage,” the spokesperson said. “It’s not just on television or radio either; last year the BBC Sport website published more than 800 articles about 40 women’s sports.

“Women’s sport generally is growing, in terms of audience and participation, and the BBC is proud to be part of that journey.”

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COLUMN

With that said, a shift in attitude isn’t going to happen overnight, and it’s clear there needs to be an active collaborative approach from all those involved, including the likes of politicians, the media and sport’s governing bodies.

“This is a distinctly British attitude as, in places like Sweden, the US and Japan, female football does get coverage,” explains Chadwick.

“I do not think such issues are going to be resolved by one organisation or by one country alone. Rather, a collaborative and consensual group of stakeholders needs to provoke and enact change in order for women's football to become much more of a global playing and commercial phenomenon.

“The shift in attitudes is happening in places like Germany and Scandinavia, but not in other parts of the world. My sense is that change is proving to be long and slow and needs revolution or some form of disruptive innovation to prompt radical, fundamental and deeply meaningful change.”

In a sample of six weeks of ESPN’s SportsCenter and Los Angeles area network news sports broadcasts in 2010, researchers at the University Of Southern California found that less than two per cent of the coverage was devoted to women’s sports.

The Women’s National Basketball Association (WNBA) is in it’s 18th season, but it's highly unlikely the league would have survived without substantial support from the NBA, which owns half of the league's 12 teams and secured a deal to broadcast their fixtures on ESPN. Interestingly, during the London 2012 Olympic Games, the crucial final 30 minutes of the USA football team's win over Canada was seen by a half-million more NBC viewers than watched the men's basketball team the same night.

On the other side of the planet, research released by the Australian government in 2010 explained women in sport made up just nine per cent of all sports coverage in Australian television news and

current affairs and seven per cent of other sport content.

Television news reports on female sport also proved to have the lowest average duration of all the types of sport news analysed.

Reports on male sport had an average duration of 30 seconds longer than those reports on female sport.

But the Australian authorities have recognised that one of the major barriers facing women’s participation in sport is getting women seen, heard and supported in the media.

As a result they pledged US$32 million to the Football Federation Australia and $2.4 million to support the Trans-Tasman netball competition, including funding to support and promote free-to-air television coverage of the ANZ Netball Championships.

Increased media coverage can help to change the public perceptions towards gender roles and women’s sport as well as create more positive role models for young women to aspire to. There really is no substitute for TV exposure.

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popular sport / Half a million more viewers watched the USA women's soccer team win gold in 2012 than watched the men's basketball team

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Into The Wild Emirati photographer Mohammed Ahmed Ahli’s stunning photographs of the Empty Quarter

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OUR MAN IN: NBA basketball star Dwyane Wade’s Miami CAsAblANCA tO fez: Adrian Mourby hits the road for an epic Moroccan adventure the jOURNey: Geoff Brokate travels to Switzerland to meet explorer Sarah Marquis phIlly fOOd tRUCks: The best of Philadelphia’s food scene on four wheels ONe sMAll step fOR MAN: The Apollo 11 moon landing in photographs

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Emirati photographEr MohaMMed ahMed ahli bought his first digital camEra in 2010. Just thrEE yEars latEr hE sEt off into rub’ al Khali (Known as thE Empty QuartEr) to indulgE his passion for naturE photography and rEturnEd with a collEction of striKing imagEs that capturE thE maJEsty of thE largEst sand dEsErt in thE world

Photography is not your fulltime job, is it? When did you start taking photographs?

No, not yet. Five years back I started taking pictures, because I have loved nature since I was a kid. I travelled with my family, and my family was drawn to nature. We started by going to Oman. Then we went to the UK, we went to Germany.

Always to appreciate nature. One day, when I was 20, I remembered all the beautiful scenes I used to see, and I thought, ‘Why didn’t I have a camera?’ I wished I could go back in time and take those pictures.

What else inspired your love of nature photography?

I am a big fan of National Geographic. I love to watch the documentaries and look at the images in the magazine. National Geographic inspired me a lot. I wanted to discover new places and to take photographs. I have been reading National Geographic for seven years. I am 25 now.

How did you start taking pictures?

I wanted to buy a DSLR camera, but my family told me they wouldn’t buy it for me. They asked what I would do with it. ‘We will buy a Dhs3,000 camera, and you will just play with it.’ So I saved money and bought a small digital camera.

I started taking pictures, and my

pictures were, honestly, bad at the beginning. But I started to get better.

I got feedback from a photography website for nature photographers (naturephotographers.net).

What sort of feedback did you receive?

Actually, it was more insults. But I took it in a positive way. I found all of the best nature photographers in the world on that site, and I put my pictures up. They pointed out a lot of mistakes, technical mistakes. I wanted to learn. So I took the advice, went out and took more pictures, and learned something new each time. I didn’t want to edit the pictures in the beginning, because I wanted to learn how to handle the light properly, how to use the light. I started learning, I did an exhibition at The Ara Gallery in 2010, I sold some of my pictures, and I bought a better camera.

What was your first project with your new camera?

Oman was the first destination I travelled to, because it’s close to the UAE and there are a lot of caves and mountains. I continued to post my pictures online, and the feedback on the Oman pictures was positive. I sold some of them, too. It was my first adventure with a good camera. But after that I wanted to do something big. I wanted to get out of the country. I used to watch the National Geographic Channel a

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lot. I would watch them camp and wake up with the sunrise, and I got very excited about doing the same. I decided to travel to New Zealand.

How did your family and friends react to your decision?

While I was planning my trip to New Zealand everybody was telling me I was crazy, because nobody did it here in the UAE – trips purely for photography. Nobody encouraged me. They told me that I was not like one of National Geographic’s photographers who could go and do this. But I had confidence, which is good. I planned my trip for six months, to see how many hours I would have to drive, how many days I would have to walk. I walked for three days, camped, hiked about 18 or 19 kilometres [a day]. I learned.

When I came back, the nature photographers who gave me the negative comments were asking me questions, which gave me great joy.

I had an exhibition of those pictures in Burj Khalifa, and the New Zealand ambassador came. He saw my pictures, and he told me that he had never seen New Zealand look so beautiful. This was in 2012.

So you decided to make your next project the Empty Quarter.

I read that the Empty Quarter had the largest dunes in the world; it has eight different colours of sand.

So I wanted to discover that. There

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is a guy called George [Steinmetz] who works for National Geographic.

He made a documentary, and he was talking about going to different deserts around the world; he paraglides, and he said the Empty Quarter was the only desert where he could hardly fly. Why? Because the dunes were so large that he would hit them and fall, and he broke his leg. He said that it was one of the most beautiful places he had seen, but he couldn’t continue [paragliding in the Empty Quarter], because the dunes were too large.

The Empty Quarter is surrounded by the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Yemen and Oman. It’s huge.

How did you plan your trip?

First I looked at the borders; I asked some of my police friends where the borders were. I used Google Earth. I found out everything on the internet, and then through experience.

Did you go alone?

I took a friend with me, but he was there to discover the Empty Quarter for the first time, too. We took a 4x4 vehicle. There is a rough road there. You go along this road, and then you stop and walk in. You couldn’t take a vehicle in. Some people went in and died because their whole vehicle sunk into the sand. Every weekend I spent there from October 2013 to April 2014. It killed my social life.

You must have found yourself in some dangerous situations.

Once I spent a whole weekend in a sand storm. I didn’t shoot anything.

The storms are unexpected. You go there, the weather is clear, and then suddenly you see a storm coming.

You go into your tent, close it and never go out. The wind is so strong, and the sand, when it hits your face, scratches you. There was a storm once when I was halfway up a dune.

Fortunately I was wearing glasses.

You climbed the dunes?

Some of the dunes are 300m.

I climbed one that was almost vertical. It took three hours. It takes so long because you keep sinking back, or you go in the wrong direction and you have to go back and find another path. I sank into the sand one time up to my stomach. Luckily I found a small tree close by and pulled myself out.

What sort of images did you want to create?

The Empty Quarter project was a huge project for me. I had timelines.

I wanted to capture different things: first the highlights and the shadows, because they are amazing; second the colours; third the size of the dunes. I wanted to cover everything, and trust me, I covered everything. Now when I go back there, I know every part of it. I was looking for very natural light. When the sun goes down it hits

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the big dunes; this is why you get the shadows. This is why it’s special. If you go to any other desert, you won’t find large dunes, so you won’t get the shadows. It was all about capturing these moments. The first two days I went there and just observed what was happening, writing notes and discovering the place. I have finished the project now, but I might go back just to relax. It’s the quietest place on earth. It gives you a peaceful feeling.

Where do you plan to travel next?

I’m thinking Alaska or Patagonia in Argentina. I like to go to unfamiliar places. I did a bungee jump recently, because I like to face my fears.

Nature taught me that. It can kill you at any time, but doing these things makes me feel so good, like I’m doing something before I die.

Photography for me is education. I like to learn about a place and the nature in that place.

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DWYANE WADE Basketball player, 32

OUR MAN IN…

Miami

Miami Heat’s Chicago-born guard has won three NBA Championships and is one of the best-known and loved players in the National Basketball Association. But off the court, he likes to keep life simple

I

’ve been living in Miami for 11 years, so I’ve been to so many places – too many. But you know what, I still try the restaurants out.

Everyone who comes to Miami goes to a steakhouse on Ocean Drive called Prime 112, or the popular Japanese restaurant, Zuma. I’ve tried all of those sorts of places, but I’m not big on going for a night out.

What I enjoy the most about Miami is the culture.

Everybody is different. I love that about this place.

I grew up in a neighbourhood in Chicago where all of the people I could see were African Americans. I was able to get outside of Chicago and understand that there was more to life than just what you can see from your window or outside of your door. Miami is a huge city that has opened my eyes to an even bigger world.

Miami is obviously famous for it’s beautiful beaches, and I like the beach, but I just couldn’t live on the beach. I think it’s better to live between the city and the beach, so you can enjoy relaxing but also the buzz of the city. I think I have that balance. I live close enough to the beach where I can just jump in my car and drive down there, but not too close that I can hear what sort of crazy things are going on over there.

I live close enough to Down Town, so I can probably get there in 15 minutes as well.

If you’re going to live in Miami, you have to work out where you’re most comfortable, and for me, it’s to have all of those things but not being mixed up in the middle of it.

For me as a player for Miami Heat, the Arena is just the place that I go to work. There are certain

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STEAK NIGHT / Prime 112 on Ocean Drive is a spot every vistor to Miami makes a point of eating in, says Wade SUSHI TIME / Zuma Miami is one of the city’s most popular resaurants, according to Wade bEAcH lIfE / Living between Miami Beach (above right) and Downtown Miami, Wade can reach either location within 15 minutes

places inside the Arena that I’ve never been. I know they turned an area into a club and areas to eat, but I don’t go in those places.

I come to the Arena to work. I’m either practising there or playing a game there. It’s a job, so I really haven’t experienced all of the things that are on offer for the fans. That part, well it isn’t even there to me.

Playing in Miami is amazing. The Heat fans are amazing. It’s a stylish kind of arena. People come in dressed to impress. It’s so different. There is a culture here that a lot of NBA arenas don’t have. That’s why people love coming to the arena – you just never know what you’re gonna get.

I do love the game, but above anything I love the camaraderie in the Heat camp, and that’s what I am going to miss most when I eventually decide to walk away from the game – the camaraderie of my teammates, the guys, the brotherhood. Then, of course, I will miss the game, because I’ve played it

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IMageS: getty IMageS

my whole life. I want to compete at the top level for as long as my body is going to let me.

I don’t shop in Miami. My stylists do most of my shopping. I’ve never been good at going into shops, I’m just one of those people. I’ll go in and walk out with nothing. I am just so picky when it comes to clothes.

I like to have a little staycation in the city, and it’s something I’ve enjoyed doing with my family quite a lot recently.

I like to take my sons and my fiancé [Gabrielle Union] away from our home to spend a weekend in a beautiful hotel, where we can enjoy a combination of the hotel, pool and the beach, but still have a little privacy as well.

We just did it at the St Regis Bal Habour Hotel, one of the newest in Miami, and it was awesome.

It’s unbelievable there, and my family and I had a great time. They treated us well, too.

I’m a simple guy. I really don’t do a lot of things.

You know, every now and then I will hit the town, take my lady out or hang out with the fellas, but not really a lot. I’m in and out.

My lady loves live music and it’s really hard to find in Miami. Everyone goes to places like Club LIV at the Fountainebleau Hotel. It’s probably one of the biggest known places in the world. For me, I like hanging out at the Soho Beach House. You can have a great conversation, there’s music, great food and just a good vibe.

My lady and I also like to hang out at this place called Love Hang. It’s a small place that has a great DJ, great music and it’s not too crowded. I’m home visit / always into the places St Regis Bal Harbour that are not like, “To the Hotel is where Wade window to the wall…” spent his most recent I’m a little more low key Miami “staycation” than that. hANG oUt / I’m not going to say Wade enjoys the “good the games I play now are vibe” at Soho Beach as exciting as the first one, but at the end of the day, you love to play this game and House (middle) you want to play this game at anytime and anywhere. teAm loyAlty / To still have that 11 years later, to still be playing in the NBA, to still be on the Wade (bottom) team that’s competing for the Championships, what more can I ask for? has played for It’s exciting in the way that 11 years later I am still able to do what I love and with Miam Heat for 11 years, winning three a great a team. championships, and No matter what happens, whether my next two years are in Miami or not, I think he says his loyalty my loyalty will always be with the Miami Heat. I love this franchise, I love the people will always be with the team in it, and no matter what happens no one can take that away from me.

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ADRIAN MOURBY RECALLS A SOLITARY MOROCCAN ROAD TRIP FROM CASABLANCA THROUGH THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS TO FEZ

Words and images: Adrian Mourby

E

ssaouira means “the beautifully designed small fortress” in Arabic, and indeed it is lovely. Orson Welles filmed his version of Othello in this town, with its whitewashed walls, on Morocco’s Atlantic coast.

Cat Stevens hung out on the beach in the 1960s. After a four-and-a-half hour drive down from Casablanca, I too was ready to relax.

I’d taken the long route down the coast, past the modern harbours of the 16th century ports of El-Jadida, Oualidia and Safi, sometimes driving parallel to the crashing waves of the Atlantic, sometimes weaving inland. Now it was time to park up and rest. I passed a dilapidated plaque to Orson Welles as I inspected the old Portuguese canons, while on the seafront fishermen were cooking and selling the day’s catch. The smell was heavenly, as was the smell of Essaouira’s workshops, where marquetry boxes are made from fragrant thuya wood.

That spring evening I took a walk out to Café du Village, an unremarkable low concrete block facing the sea where the owner, Houssine, assures people that Jimi Hendrix used to sit and talk with him.

“What did you talk about?” I asked in my schoolboy French, but Houssine just laughed and pointed to his picture of Jimi. When my meal was over he asked me in French if I would return tomorrow. “Naturellement,” I assured him.

On my way back into town I found several more cafés with a claim on M’sieu Hendrix. They’re as ubiquitous as the Parisian bars where Hemingway drank. I felt bad about lying to Houssine, and that night I worried about the scope and size of my journey.

The big idea had been to travel over the High and Middle Atlas Mountains and see something of the ‘real’ Morocco. Getting down to Essaouira had been easy. Tomorrow’s leg was inland across the Marrakech

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OPEN SKIES / DECEMBER 2014

DAWN OVER THE MIDDLE ATLAS MOUNTAINS

Plain, but the real adventure would only begin after that, over the mountains to Ouarzazate, and finally north into the royal city of Fez. Those place names had conjured up images of long camel trains and noisy spice markets, but reality so far was just my flashy red hire car and roads I did not know.

The next morning I took the wide road from Essaouira to Marrakech, passing lorries, little Berber men on motorbikes and a few merchants making their way to market on donkeys. One convoy of three was transporting baskets full of discarded packing webbing strips. I wound down the window and asked the merchants where they would sell this load, but their French was as bad as mine. We found no common ground.

Entering the city I came across a remarkable sight: Marrakech’s own Theatre Royale, an extraordinary new construction, one part Italian opera house and the other an openair semi-circular theatre in 18th century French style. When I called in to

outskIrts of mIdelt and the hIgh atlas mountaIns beyond

ask about what was being performed I met Julien Amicel, director of the Dar Al-Ma’mûn Foundation, who loves the building but is sad to see it so empty. “Every year there is the Marrakech Festival Of Laughter,” he told me, “but that’s all. This place is beautiful, but because of security worries the authorities regularly refuse projects we propose.”

Marrakech is such a successful tourist city that very little surprises.

As you shop the souk it’s hard to distinguish between old riads that

Atlas Mountains. That’s where the adventure would begin.

I woke to brilliant spring sunshine, but when I asked the concierge how long it might take me to cross the High Atlas, he shook his head and said it depended on whether there was snow on the mountains.

“But it looks fine here,” I said. And indeed it did. I left the city down a long road framed by plane trees and was soon climbing the foothills in sunshine so bright that all the greenery dazzled. Big lorries were coming

I drove on, swervIng where I had to. I passed an old kasbah and - of all thIngs - a small roadsIde cafÉ called chez mImI offer themselves as hotels and modern hotels that pretend to be riads. It all blends together. However, at La Mamounia I did make a discovery.

This stately hotel has recently opened a Don Alfonso restaurant. I just had to dine there, as chef Alfonso Iaccarino himself is a friend whom I’ve visited several times on the Amalfi Coast. I sent a selfie from the restaurant, and Alfonso’s son Ernesto e-mailed back almost immediately that the tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil and honey I was eating had actually been sent from the family farm in Italy.

But looking at my route map I had to admit that this wasn’t really the Morocco I’d come looking for. The next morning I was heading into the

down the mountain and making free use of the middle of the road. This was mildly worrying in itself, but what alarmed me even more was the lack of crash barriers should one of those monsters clip me. The drop down into the Ghdat Valley was more than 1,000m. I found myself hugging the middle of the road, too, and got royally blasted by their horns.

Another 500m up and it began to get misty. I switched on my lights, but soon large white snowflakes started landing on the windscreen. By the time I reached Bab Tichka, I was in the middle of a regular snowstorm.

To my amazement, just as I rounded one corner a man robed head to foot in a dark jellabah stepped out in front

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of me with three large crystals dyed lurid hues of orange, blue and green in his hand. And he wasn’t the last.

This section of the N9 military road is famed for its crystal vendors, and boy were they desperate for a sale in this awful weather.

I drove on, swerving where I had to. I passed an old Kasbah and – of all things – a small roadside café called Chez Mimi. Stopping briefly at the top of the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass, at 2,200m above sea level, the highest point on my route, I cleared the snow from the windscreen. Then the long descent began alongside a stream gushing brown mud. As the weather cleared I noticed two things; the soil in this valley was black, in contrast to the green Atlantic side of the Atlas, and there was a new kind of domestic architecture – a modern take on the traditional Kasbah. I stopped to take a photo of one house, little realising that style would be with me all 450km to Midelt.

Heading towards Tatzoune and Ouarzazate, I soon found myself on a sandy plain where palm trees indicated the occasional oasis village. Diverting 10km off my route to Ait Ben Hadou, I reached this stunning Berber village that has been used in movies including Lawrence Of Arabia, Jesus Of Nazareth and Kingdom Of Heaven.

Ait Ben Hadou rises up, an elaborate series of castellated mud ksours surrounded by a shallow stream.

I parked where the road ended and walked down a lane of men selling the usual Moroccan souvenirs on blankets.

The stallholders vied for my attention, as I kept explaining that “Je suis jusque arrive, je reviens”. One asked me if I’d promise to come back and, out of politeness, I said I would try.

You can pay 10 dirham (US$1.20) for a donkey to take you across the small stream to Ait Ben Hadou, but I didn’t have time to explore the town so I cooled my feet in the shallow waters, took some photos and enjoyed the view for free.

Half an hour later, approaching Ouazazate, up rose a huge sculpture of sprocketed film enveloping the

A TibeTAn house from mArTin scorsese’s kundun wAs in good condiTion, unlike cleopATrA’s pAlAce, which wAs very dAmp globe that marks the beginning of Atlas Studios. While modern Hollywood can be underwhelming to visit, Atlas does not disappoint. Huge Pharaonic figures guarded the studio gates.

When I parked I saw a sign for The Oscar Hotel, a reminder that films made here have garnered Academy Awards. As nothing was in production at the moment I managed to get permission to wander round.

The Gladiator Bar (named after the film starring Russell Crowe) was empty but pumping out tinny Western pop music. The Cleopatra Restaurant (named after a mini epic that starred Timothy Dalton and Billy Zane) was closed, so I went to look at the sets instead. A catapult from Oliver Stone’s Alexander stood next to an aeroplane from Jewel Of The Nile. A Tibetan house from Martin Scorsese’s Kundun was in good condition, unlike Cleopatra’s Palace, which was very damp and backed bizarrely and directly on to the Roman Forum.

In the distance I could see the walls of Jerusalem from The Kingdom Of Heaven. Annoyingly I’d pre-booked a room in the garrison town of Ouar-

zazate. I wish I’d known about Oscar.

The hotel had a certain kitsch value.

On day four the sun was bright as I drove out early past the Royal Ouarzazate Golf Course, its palm trees grouped round improbably lush and irrigated fairways. I was heading to Rose Valley, which gets its name from the plants brought back by medieval pilgrims to Mecca. Every shop and stall I passed sold rosewater. In the end I stopped to buy some and picked up bottled drinking water, too. Up above me some boys were playing around a huge boulder that was perched on a ridge. It looked for all the world as if a giant had left it there when tired of his game of marbles. The boys were pretending to push it over. I hope no one ever does. It would flatten the pretty little shops of Rose Valley.

I wanted to get to Midelt by evening, so I accelerated now. At the oasis town of Skoura I stopped just to stretch and take photos, but a waiter befriended me and insisted that he should show me around. I explained I had to get going, but he wasn’t going to take no for an answer, even when I got back into my car. He actually jumped on to his bike and cycled after me.

My longest day of driving took me past the rocky fortifications of Tinerhir, the oasis town of Goulmima and the big Hassan-Addakhil dam.

Hungry by 2.30pm, I had lunch at an isolated roadside hotel called Kasba Dounia, where the manager, Abdul, and the owner, Mustapha, were keen that I should stay the night. Abdul told me that every September near their A cArpeT shop housed in A TypicAl kAsbAh-sTyle building

The forTified ciTy AïT benhAddou

hotel the Berber tribes hold a great ‘fiancée’ ceremony. I should come back and see that. I said I would like to, and hoped that would not mean they’d be awaiting me in six month’s time. The hotel’s location was impressive but desolate. As I resumed my journey, a huge flock of birds rose up from the lake opposite the hotel and darkened the sky. It felt like a bad omen.

Soon I was driving up the Ziz Gorge back into the High Atlas.

It was a dramatic, even alarming landscape. You could see how violently the underlying layers of rock had been squashed and squeezed as they were bent upwards to create this mountain range. Shards of splintered stone lay everywhere. I pulled over to try and take some photos but suddenly a white stretch limo shot past in an extraordinary hurry to get south. When I tried again the exact same thing happened, another stretch limo with darkened windows that only just missed me. I never found out where they were heading and put my camera away after that. I didn’t want to tempt fate a third time.

At the top of the gorge was a wide red plateau, 1,900m above sea level, where goatherds were taking their flocks home. I drove past a few crumbling mud buildings and a new mosque powered by solar panels. The landscape was so bleakly empty, and yet when I stopped to check the map outside a village called Ait Balasane, a woman and her son appeared from nowhere carrying bundles of twigs and asked me to take their photo for a dirham. Even though the light was going I took two snaps and handed over some cash. Then more mothers

café du village hendrix, also known as chez houssine, on the beach essaouira

arrived with their children, asking for dirhams and ‘stylos’, so I ducked back into my car and headed off.

An hour later I had made it off the plateau driving down the N13, a new winding road on to the Plateau de l’Arid that stretches between the High and Middle Atlas. By nightfall I was in Midelt. My hotel’s kitchen was closed, so I walked down dark streets thronged with young people to find dinner in a tiny strip-lit café.

I was the only customer, and the owner and his brother seemed more interested in a live feed of prayers from Mecca on the wall-mounted TV. But they were happy enough to serve me a delicious tagine. When I asked about wine I feared that I might offend them, but the brother nodded sagely and went off to the shops for me, returning with an excellent bottle of Moroccan white.

The two men clearly thought me odd but harmless as I spread a map out in the table and tucked into dinner. “Je reviens,” I said to the brothers as I left. And this time I meant it.

My last day took me up into the Middle Atlas range across a bald upland area where an isolated mosque had storks nesting on its single squat minaret, and then across the Lakes District, a beautiful watery plateau full of flooded volcanoes and forests of cedars and Holm oak. Coming round one corner I found six teenage boys playing football in the middle of

nowhere, using the road as their pitch.

By the surprised look on their faces not many cars come this way.

soon i was driving up the ziz gorge back into the high atlas. it was a dramatic, even alarming, landscape And on to Ifrane, the pseudoAlpine village where King Mohamed VI goes skiing each winter. Architecturally it was like being transported to another continent, and a snowy one at that. Sentries outside the modern royal compound built by M6 were stamping their feet in a recent scattering of snow.

berber merchant on the road from essaouira to marrakech

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I’d decided to have lunch at Sefrou, an old walled city 30km from Fez. Sefrou was founded by Berbers who, 2,000 years ago, converted to Judaism. In 1967 the character of the city changed drastically when they emigrated en masse to Israel. A lot of hippies moved in at that point, living among the tolerant and amused Muslim population.

Unfortunately a toothless old Moroccan hippie latched on to me as soon as I’d parked. He showed me a photo of himself and someone he claimed was Paul McCartney. “The Beatles were here in 1967, my friend,” he told me as I followed signs to the Café Al Massira. “You look like Paul McCartney, my friend.” I got the feeling that he thought most Europeans looked like Macca.

Eventually I found the café and told him I had to go inside to eat.

He accepted this quite happily, but waited for me to re-emerge. I think he wanted European company.

“You will come back, my friend?” “Of course.” And I meant it this time, too.

I had driven 1,680km now and seen such different aspects of Morocco in the last five days. I was no longer sure which was the Real Morocco. There’d been so many.

Passing now through farmland where Carignan and Cinsaut vines are grown for Morocco’s red wines, I sighted Fez in the distance, a dark city of royal palaces and ancient learning. I was looking forward to exploring it on foot, but at the same time sad my road trip was nearing its end.

G e o f f B r o k at e t r av e l l e d to Champex laC in the SwiSS alpS to ta k e a l e i S u r e ly h i k e w i t h S a r a h marquiS, the adventurer who in 2 0 1 0 B e G a n a t h r e e - y e a r j o u r n e y, o n f o ot, t h at w o u l d ta k e h e r f r o m SiBeria to auStralia Words and images by Geoff Brokate

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time out / Marquis takes a rest on a track near her home in Champex Lac, Switzerland

omewhere in the remote regions of the Sichuan Mountains members of the Lui Tribe are telling their children about the first time they saw a foreigner, while nomadic families carving out a laboured life amid the sand storms of the Mongolian Gobi Desert discuss the miracle of a European woman who once walked across their country. If you were to go further south, to Australia’s Nullarbor Plains – a 200,000 square kilometre stretch that is best described as sparse, arid and treeless, where temperatures regularly rise above 40 degrees – there stands a truck stop where drivers stop to refuel and recover from the gruelling three days it takes to cross the plain. If you venture inside you will hear a local yarn about a woman who once walked across this unforgiving land; they say she even hunted her own food.

Stories of lone adventurers trekking through the landscape entice our senses, spark the imagination and return us to the wild. The Lui Tribe’s story is not a fantasy, it is true, and the foreigner in question, the heroine of the tale, is Sarah Marquis, who at 42 years old has been using her feet to traverse the planet for just a little more than half her life. Her most recent achievement was a three-year exploration, which spanned the frozen north to the desert south.

Marquis walked from Siberia to southern Australia in a remarkable show of endurance and courage, earning her a nomination for National Geographic’s Adventurer Of The Year 2014.

Marquis lives in Champex Lac, a small village situated on a lake surrounded by the Swiss Alps. The ski season has ended and there is silence in the empty streets. The water is perfectly still and the mountains are mirrored back to me as I wait for Marquis by

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the side of the lake. From a distance I notice a woman confidently striding towards me. Her long, dark hair is wild. As she introduces herself I observe how her fringe shields a pair of dark, piercing eyes. She speaks with a heavy French accent, which carries a sound of sweet innocence supported by her generous smile and the youthful spring in her movements.

I suggest that we could do the interview at her house. No is the reply. Short and direct. It is clear that I have already overstepped the mark.

It turns out that Marquis doesn’t let anyone into her home. An essential skill to surviving in the wild is marking out and protecting your territory, a habit Marquis finds hard to curb. She doesn’t even let her publicist go to her house.

What about boyfriends I ask? “It’s complicated.”

It isn’t surprising that relationships are complicated. Marquis has spent most of her adult life either planning for or completing expeditions across some of the world’s harshest terrain. In 2000 she walked from the Canadian border to the Mexican border, taking four months to cross the US. In 2002 she spent 17 months wandering through remote Australian outback with one question in mind: “As a Western woman could I actually survive by hunting for my own food?”

During 2006 Marquis spent eight months in South America. It was one of her hardest expeditions. She trekked through the Andes, surviving freezing temperatures and debilitating altitude sickness. These achievements seem insignificant when compared to the three years she spent walking through Asia to the parched land of Australia.

Instead of conducting the interview indoors Marquis offers to walk me through the mountains. The path winds through pine-

Open skies / December 2014

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Open skies / December 2014

covered slopes. She knows these tracks intim- view of the vast valley below and mountains ately; last month she was walking them with that reach out to the skyline. But before I snowshoes. Her phone rings and she discusses can speak, she jumps in. “I don’t want to talk her up-and-coming book tour, which begins about kilometres. People annoy me with ‘how in Paris, with her French publisher, Michel many kilometres?’ questions. What I do is a Lafon. It’s hard to imagine this woman, who philosophical journey; it has nothing to do appears so adapted to modern life, walking with how many kilometres. You don’t last herself to exhaustion for 12 hours a day, close three years thinking that way. I’m not one of to starvation, unwashed and untamed. She those people who want to be the first person puts her phone away and to go up that high or the answers my question as first person to go down marquis though I had been thinkthat low. I don’t go to break prefers to ing aloud. “I’m quite happy records; this is not what it in my tent, every morning is about. It’s all about the call it her I’m gifted a new landscape. journey not the end goal.”

“1,000 nights Rather than referBut you could easily see me a n d 1 , 0 0 0 d ay s ring to distances travelled in a five-star hotel.” Marquis is not afraid of being f r o m s i b e r i a t o Marquis prefers to call it her “1,000 nights and feminine; she is aware of a u s t r a l i a” 1,000 days from Siberia her beauty, but it’s not her to Australia”, a title that looks that define her, rather it is her strength and a confidence that comes further evokes the aura of a living myth. Her from having pitted herself against nature’s epic adventure began on the June 20, 2010, at Lake Baikal in the southern region of Siberia, harsh extremities and survived.

I’m full of questions, and Marquis senses Russia. She walked south to Mongolia, which my impatience. She sits on a boulder with a was the most difficult country: cold temper-

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wild times / Marquis’ campsite in Mongolia’s Gobi Desert, where night time temperatures can drop to well below zero

atures, a lack of food and, at times, hostile people. Next was China, where she walked the mountains of the Sichuan and Yunnan provinces. As she wasn’t allowed to carry a GPS, Marquis was forced to use Chinese language maps and a compass. She continued on through the jungles of Laos and the forests of Thailand, before taking a cargo boat to Australia, where she walked for another year.

Finally, on May 17, 2013, she reached her destination, a tree. It was a tree she had met and fallen in love with during her first Australian expedition, and she had vowed then that she would return one day.

It was during that first expedition through Australia, in 2002, that Marquis decided that she wanted to discover if she could survive by hunting her own food. She trekked along the Canning Stock Route, an area that has rarely been visited by humans, including indigenous people. The trail is a distance of 1,850km, and passes through three deserts in the mid-western region of Western Australia.

It was two months before Marquis saw another soul. “Hunting my own food was a big thing for me. I hadn’t eaten an animal since I was 11 years old. I was hunting Goanna (nat-

ive lizards) and eating witchetty grubs (the large white larvae of a moth), eating duck and Galahs (a pink feathered native bird). I was eating anything possible, because I was starving. I only had a blow gun and a sling shot, and I taught myself the whole way.”

While Marquis doesn’t endorse the killing of animals, she understands better than anyone else the power of the survival instinct.

“I came to know about hunger, and that changed me forever. It was a big deal for me to kill any of those animals, but after starving for two weeks, you just kill it. Your instincts kick in and you have to eat. But I haven’t eaten one piece of meat since that trip.”

When it comes to food, Marquis approaches each trip differently. During her South American adventure her brother went ahead months in advance and buried food at specific GPS locations. But on her last jour-

sweet home / A Ger is a traditional nomadic home for those living on the Mongolian steppes

m a r q u i s d e c i d e d t h at s h e wa n t e d t o d i s c o v e r i f s h e c o u l d s u rv i v e b y h u n t i n g h e r own food 129

Open skies / December 2014

ney she had decided to leave it to fate. “On this trip I survived on whatever I found. In Mongolia it was difficult, because they only eat meat. I ate boortsog (a kind of biscuit), buckwheat and in some places I found rice.”

Marquis found it easier travelling through Laos, Thailand and Australia, where vegetable supplies among the villages and towns enabled her to fill her specially designed cart with supplies.

Some of Marquis’ most dramatic moments came when she was walking through the jungle in Laos. “I had dengue fever for three days. I had stopped next to a river and I was getting worse. I couldn’t move. I needed to stay there, so I attached myself to a tree with a rope. I was starting to feel delirious from the fever, so I thought, ‘If I attach myself at least I won’t go into the water and drown.’ Three days later I was still alive.”

Afraid for her life Marquis contacted her expedition chief, Gregory Barbezat, back in Switzerland via her satellite phone, but there was nothing he could do. She was in such a remote location that no one could reach her in time. Surprisingly, the thing that came to her rescue was her camera. “I

decided to make a video every hour to not lose touch with reality. So I have a video of all those three days. I’m like, ‘I’ve got a really bad headache, but I’m fine.’ By the end I couldn’t talk really. I’m just staring at

“ I h Av E b E E n d o I n g T h I s f o r 2 3 yEArs, And MosT of ThE TIME I dIsguIsE MysElf As A MAn. IT’s A bIg procEss. I AM lIkE A sEcrET AgEnT ouT ThErE” the camera like this,” she stares into my eyes with a blank zombie expression, then laughs it off as though the experience was hardly worth mentioning.

I decided to ask her the obvious question: what about being a female travelling alone?

“A lot of woman’s magazines come to me and ask if I can talk about that,” she replies.

“They ask me if I recommend young women to go to these areas. I have been doing this for 23 years, and most of the time I disguise myself as a man, it’s a big process. I am like a secret

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TEA TIME / Marquis’ kettle boiling for the final time before she concluded her three year adventure

agent out there.” Avoiding the threat of violence and unwanted attention from men is an essential survival skill for Marquis. In the Australian bush she would tie a tree branch to her waist, which dragged along behind her sweeping away any footprints she made. In Mongolia she had to walk during the night because groups of drunken men would invade her campsite while she was sleeping. In China she was locked in a house in an old village while a local man ran to get the police.

But nothing compares to the nightmare she faced, once again, during her time in the jungle in Laos. She had only just recovered from dengue fever and was asleep in her tent after a long day. “In the middle of the night, in the middle of the jungle, there were about 15 strange men in my camp with machine guns.”

Having learnt how to assert herself against possible danger, Marquis decided that directing anger towards them would scare them away. “I stood up and started yelling at them. What a nightmare. They started to get agitated, they didn’t feel threatened whatsoever,” she says, mocking her own efforts. “The guy took his gun and started to shoot it in the air. I was like, ‘Oh, Sarah, this is not good. This is not good at all. I need to do something right now.’ I had this little tiny guidebook about language in that area and I took it, hopefully thinking that’s the language they are using. And I started to read this phrase ‘I’m a tourist. I’m from Switzerland. Do you understand me?’ And I started to repeat this for three hours like a mantra. Over and over. I didn’t stop. And finally after three hours they were sick of me and let me go.”

After all of the years of risk and adventure Mar- sick day / A campsite in the Laos jungle where quis was faced with a situation like no other. “That Marquis suffered from severe dengue fever was the only time in more than 20 years that I was ready to push the red button on my tracking system. to the task. “Nature is pretty rough, it’s a life and death If anything happened at least my family would know situation. I have spent many hours watching Australian where to look for a body. It was so close to a disaster.” Brahman cattle. They go to the water at a certain time Australia is where Marquis’ of the day and in the afternoon they heart lies, and she found it a comcome back. So by looking at their n at u r e i s fort to arrive on its shores via a hoof prints on the ground I knew cargo boat from Thailand. “I never if I followed this trail, in less than pretty rough. look ahead thinking, ‘Well, I’ve got five kilometres I would find water it’s a life three years to go.’ I would go crazy.

– and it worked every time.” The So I was taking one step at a time, difficulty Marquis then faced was o r d e at h keeping my focus on the present. how to approach a thousand head of s i t u at i o n .

But when I got to Australia it was cattle crowded around a water bore. a big thing. I realised that Asia was If she frightened them there would behind me and I was still alive.” Walking through the be a stampede. “So I started singing,” Marquis says, Australian desert offers its own challenges, but none before starting to hum a graceful, lilting tune. “I keep that Marquis hadn’t faced before. “I still had one year the same volume and rhythm five kilometres before. to go, but this was Australia, and I was familiar with I never stop and I never change my walking rhythm. every noise, every plant and animal. I knew it would be They hear me from really far away so I become a part hard but I was happy to be there.” of the landscape. I go really slowly and zigzag through The obvious challenge when tackling a desert is the cows and they never become afraid of me. They finding water, and Marquis has found a novel approach know who I am, I am this song.”

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We are scared of the unknoWn. We don’t Wa n t t o l e av e o u r c o m f o rt z o n e

manning up / Marquis on a trail in Mongolia, where she tried to dress in such a way that from a distance she looked like a man

Almost 1,000 days and nights had passed, and Marquis was finally starting to contemplate arriving at her destination. “It’s really hard to finish a trip, I’m happy but I’m also sad. It’s a mixture between a sense of achievement and the pain of saying goodbye to the bush.”

With 400 kilometres to go, one of the handles on her cart broke. This seemingly minor incident became a major emotional and physical challenge. “I had to

use new muscles, it was not the position I had been used to for three years. So that put a lot of pressure and stress on my body. I had a really rough last week.

But the good thing about pain is, when it finishes it feels like I’m reborn. Pain is a mental approach; you need to be friends with your pain. If you hate pain it’s never going to go away. Just go with it.”

As Marquis took the final steps towards her tree, it was approaching sunset, and she sat down and made herself one last cup of tea. “I took a picture of that tea. It’s like my little bubble, the process of making a tea.” As she arrived she was greeted by an entourage of journalists, TV crews and photographers, all arriving by helicopter. Exhausted and relieved she gave interviews and smiled her way through the local media attention, but it was the tree she had come to see. “My tree was still there, which was good news,” she says, laughing at the idea that she could have walked all that way only to discover the tree was gone. “It’s just a tree in the middle of nowhere, but set against the sunset it was perfect.”

Marquis suddenly stops and looks out beyond the Swiss Alps; her eyes have a glint that suggests that another adventure is never too far away. She is a thoughtful, philosophical woman who has had plenty of time to contemplate life and her own mortality. “Death is a part of life in every way. Look at the sunrise and the sunset. Look at nature and how the birds survive and how the insects struggle. Death is all around. We humans are the stupid ones who think we are going to last forever. We are scared of the unknown. We don’t want to leave our comfort zone. We fill up our lives with entertainment to escape, but if you leave your comfort zone you will see how entertaining your life actually is.”

The sun is starting to move behind the pristine mountains and we start the walk back to Champex Lac. After spending time with this mythical woman I start to feel a stirring inside, my mind is filled with adventure and danger. A mythical story offers insight into the nature of things and how we can best live our lives. Marquis believes that it is her ability to cross the divide between civilisation and nature that best portrays her purpose. “My mission is to build a little bridge between humans and nature. We have gone in a direction where we have forgotten about nature. We don’t understand the impact we have on our environment. We can’t just stand on this side of the bridge and pretend that it doesn’t exist, because we came from there. If we don’t realise that we are connected to nature and not computers then it will be too late.”

She pulls out her iPhone – the latest model – and, with an ebullient chuckle, illustrates the complicated contradictions of modern life. “It’s about balance”, she says with a smirk.

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MARTA ZARASKA EXPLORES PHILADELPHIA’S THRIVING FOOD TRUCK SCENE Many of the best restaurants in Philadelphia don’t have running water. They don’t have tables, or even chairs. They do have engines, though, and a couple of pairs of tyres.

In Philly, if you want to dine well, the city’s myriad food trucks are the place to go. It’s not just hot dogs and scrambled eggs in a bun – not anymore. Recently, Philadelphia’s food trucks have gone gourmet. Whether you crave Mexican, Indian, Hawaiian, or even Native American cuisine, there is a food truck in Philadelphia that offers something delicious to make your taste buds dance with joy. The array of dishes on offer is astounding: mouth-watering grilled sandwiches filled with gingery meatballs; delicious aromatic Venezuelan arepas stuffed with adobobraised steak; peanut-flecked lemongrass chicken that explodes with flavour once you bite into it.

It all began decades ago with a few simple carts offering cheap and rather unappealing fare to the students of the Penn and Temple Universities. Today, Philadelphia’s food truck scene is one of the most diverse and vibrant in North America – and it’s growing fast.

Some of Philadelphia’s food trucks are loners; you can find them parked on their own on one of the streets in the quirky neighbourhood of Bella Vista, in eclectic Passyunk or artsy Fishtown. Others flock to common gathering grounds – to the downtown Love Park and to south-Philly Navy Yard, or the busy University City. Whenever something is happening in the City Of Brotherly Love, the food trucks are there. At beer festivals, film festivals and dog shows, at farmers’ markets and flea markets. In a way, they are more connected to the pulse of the city than any of the regular restaurants could ever hope to be, following the most popular events and celebrations; if something important to Philadelphians is happening, wherever the heart of the city moves, the food trucks go there, too. What’s more, the restaurants on wheels are also a great way to meet the natives, listen to the local gossip as you wait (not too long, though, don’t worry) for your kimchi dumplings or a berry salad with a sprinkle of rose water. The only minus? You may discover one day that your favourite restaurant has simply driven away.

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Foo Truck Green curry quinoa with roasted vegetable medley and tender lemongrass chicken on a bed of jasmine rice, dressed with cucumber slices, crisp carrot and daikon slaw. Sound good? Tastes even better. Foo Truck was one of the Vendy Award finalist in 2013 and has a committed following both on Twitter and on the streets.

The truck, run by George Pan, is easily recognisable from a distance, whether parked at the Love Park, the Navy Yard, or at one of Philadelphia’s many festivals. It’s painted in giant pink flowers on a background of blue and white swirls. Pan serves what he calls “Asian-inspired street Fop.” His Foo-wiches, tortillas stuffed with various Thai, Vietnamese and Taiwanese delicacies, don’t require chopsticks or forks, and can be easily eaten on the go (“More portable than a smartphone and definitely more delicious,” as the Foo’s website advertises). Yet to appreciate Foo Truck offerings in full, it is better to stop for a while. Unwrap your juicy flank steak marinated in a blend of soy sauce, garlic, ginger and some secret ingredient that Pan doesn’t want to name. Take a bite. Enjoy. footruck.com

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CuCina Zapata Mexican and Thai is an unusual but delicious fusion. Robert (36) and Ruk (33) Zapata combined Ruk’s cooking skills, which she gained in her native Thailand, with Robert’s formal training in hospitality and experience working in Philadelphia’s Mexican restaurants. The results are so delectable they have gained the approval of their customers, who repeatedly give the truck the highest of ratings (it also won the People’s Choice at the 2011 Vendy Awards). Among Cucina Zapata’s bestsellers are Thai beef short-rib tacos and chicken satay tacos.

“The ultimate crowd favourite, though, is the Cap’n Crunch tilapia burrito,” says Robert. The burrito is sweet and savoury and spicy at the same time. According to reviewers on local forums, “The cap’n crunch tilapia burrito is life-changing” and “the best US$5 I’ve ever spent”. Robert feels that the food truck scene has elevated Philadelphia’s culinary culture, because it gives a complete, unconstrained freedom to the cook to be creative, to experiment. In the case of Cucina Zapata such experimentation definitely works for the best. Just try their perfectly spiced and crunchy vegetarian burgers with a Thai iced tea. Cucina Zapata is located on 31st and Ludlow in an area dubbed ‘food truck alley’. facebook.com/cucina.zapata

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Vernalicious

Magic carpet

Vernalicious is a white and green truck roaming the City Of Brotherly Love. Wherever it goes, it lures crowds. Almost 2,000 people follow it on Twitter to make sure they don’t miss the truck’s current location. Vernalicious, run by Verna Swerdlow (44) and David Jurkofsky (47), is a Philadelphia institution.

Verna, who in her “previous incarnations” was a glass artist, a balloon entertainer and an optician, prepares luscious dishes that draw from many different traditions. “I never wanted to be limited by our cuisine,” she says. “If we were just a burger truck or a taco truck, I’m pretty sure I would have gotten tired of the same old thing. Most of our customers enjoy the seasonal and eclectic fare, too.” Verna believes that one of the keys to their success is that their foods evoke emotions. “They strike a sense of comfort, transport people to their childhoods,” she says. Verna offers a sumptuous Roast Turkey Club on flaky croissant, creamy white bean rosemary hummus with marinated artichoke hearts, roasted red pepper and spinach and a classic cobb salad, garnished with bacon, bleu cheese and avocado, sprinkled with red wine vinaigrette. Vernalicious won the People’s Choice at the 2012 Vendy Awards.

A Philadelphia staple for almost 30 years. Dean Varvoutis (54) has two tiny, green and silver carts parked in University City. The long lines in front of each of them speak for themselves. The food sold here is first-class.

Everything is vegetarian, and everything is tasty. “Our longevity is a testament to the quality of our products,” says Dean, who preferred opening a food truck to working in a restaurant. “I was looking for a way to have more time with my growing family, and a food truck allowed me that.” He also wanted to do something that would make him “feel proud at the end of each day”.

The menu has barely changed since the truck’s opening in 1984. Magic Carpet describes its offering as “whole world vegetarian cuisine”, and a quick glimpse at the menu confirms that Dean does take his customers on a trip around the planet: there are Greek touches and Mediterranean ones, Indian-Pakistani dishes and Mexican-influenced ones, there is a bit of Middle Eastern cuisine, of Cajun, and American (of course). And yes, there’s no meat, although the seitan pepper steak, so perfectly cooked that it melts in your mouth, can fool your taste buds into believing it is meat. Other delights to try include the Bedouin falafel on rice and veggies and the tofu meatballs with red sauce.

vernalicious.com

magiccarpetfoods.com

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Chez Yasmine

Ka’Chi

French music drifts from an iPod tucked in the corner of Chez Yasmine’s tiny metallic counter. The owner, Jihed Chehimi (“in his upper fifties”) mixes French and English as he chats with his customers. Chehimi not only knows almost all of them by name, but also knows what’s going on in their lives. What draws so many people to Chez Yasmine is not just the convivial atmosphere, though, but also the mouth-watering food, which is a fusion of many different cuisines. “The menu represents my heritage,” says Chehimi. “Where I came from (Tunisia), where I lived and studied (Paris, Stockholm), where I travelled (Asia).” Chehimi, who holds a PhD in viral immunology, worked for more than 20 years as a medical researcher at such institutions as University Of Pennsylvania School Of Medicine and University Of Puerto Rico. He gave it all up for the simpler life of a food truck owner. His medical background is the reason why he puts special emphasis on the healthiness of his food (no sodas sold here, no hotdogs. He learnt how to cook first from his Tunisian mother, then in cooking courses in France.

Now he whips up delicious quinoa salad and Vietnamese chicken Bánh mì. It’s also here that you can try the aromatic Swedish berry salad with chopped mint and a sprinkle of rose water.

A relative newcomer, but already developing a devoted clientele attracted by the flavourful, spicy dishes. Sung-Yoon Kang (31), with part-time help from his wife, translates his Korean family recipes for the American taste buds, and with great success.

“We use Korean BBQ meats and other traditional dishes and make them more approachable,” he says.

What’s more, except for the bread and tortillas, they make everything from scratch, including their own kimchi (which is strong, pungent and delicious).

Their homemade sauces, such as the Pineapple Habanero Sauce, add zest to the crunchy fried Kimchi Rice Balls and Bulgogi (sweet, soy marinated beef ). Sung-Yoon, who comes from a family of restaurateurs, wanted to open his own Korean restaurant. But in the current economic climate it was hard to get the money from the banks. And so he followed the current trend in Philadelphia, and opened a food truck instead. “For about five years now food trucks have started to play a big role on Philly’s culinary scene. Many new trucks are putting out unique foods of best restaurant quality. Still, many people need to change their misconceptions of the old ‘roach coaches’ and try the trucks that are rolling around,” says Sung-Yoon.

chezyasmine.org

kachitruck.com

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The Cow and The Curd

Poi dog

The food cooked here is simple, but it will send your taste buds into overdrive. At first glimpse, it seems that what’s sold here is fried cheese. But as the T-shirts of the truck’s two cooks say, “It is not a mozzarella stick!” So what is it? Rob Mitchell (41) and his wife, Laura Windham-Mitchell (40), lure Philadelphians with fried curds, a dairy product you can get by adding lemon juice or vinegar to milk and draining the liquid. Fried curds are a local delicacy in Wisconsin, and it was Laura’s idea (she’s a native Midwesterner) to bring this speciality to Philadelphia. It caught on. The Cow and The Curd won the 2013 Vendy People’s Taste Award and the 2013 Best of Philly in Food Truck category. The cornerstone of the menu is the Classic Curd, white and yellow cheddar battered and fried to perfection. Rob and Laura also tempt their customers with a variety of specialty curds, such as Farmer’s Garden curd (white cheddar infused with chipotle, sun-dried tomato, garlic and basil), cranberry curd and smoked paprika curd – all paired with carefully designed dipping sauces. Definitely a pleasure, if a guilty one.

The cuisine on offer at Poi Dog is quite extraordinary. Kiki Aranita (28), who grew up in Hawaii, and Chris Vacca (32), offer Hawaiian dishes heavily influenced by many diverse cuisines: Japanese, Filipino, Portuguese and Chinese. In their tiny mobile kitchen (4x8 feet) they whip up such treats as crispy chicken in guava katsu sauce and Mochiko and furikake-battered chicken with pickled red cabbage and togarashi yuzu mayo. Their Tofu Poke (tofu, chilli pepper, sesame, and ogo, an edible seaweed) is smooth and delicate, yet full of flavour.

Before they became food truck owners, Kiki and Chris were both graduate students in Classics, Ancient Greek and Latin, but they both fell in love with food. For inspiration, they travel. “Last time Kiki was in Hawaii, she scoured thrift stores and the bookshelves of family members, and came back with suitcase full of notes,” says Chris. “We have versions of dishes based on popular ingredients in Hawaii but also our entirely own creations.” In 2013 Poi Dog was a finalist of Vendy Awards, the ultimate cook-off between Philadelphia’s best sidewalk chefs.

thecowandthecurd.com

poidogphilly.com

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ONE SMALL STEP FOR MAN

On July 20, 1969, Apollo 11’s Lunar Module, Eagle, landed on the surface of the moon. While Michael Collins piloted the Command Module, Columbia, in lunar orbit, Commander Neil Armstrong became the first man to set foot on the moon on July 21, 1969. He was followed shortly afterwards

by Lunar Module Pilot Buzz Aldrin. These images, taken before, during and after the moon landing, which took place 45 years ago, tell the story of one of mankind’s greatest achievements

Apollo 11’s Command And Service Module (CSM-107) undergoes final systems tests at the Kennedy Space Center, Cape Canaveral, Florida, in January 1969

CSM-107 is hoisted prior to being transported to the Vehicle Assembly Building at the Kennedy Space Centre in April 1969. Apollo 12’s Command And Service Module (CSM-108) sits on the vehicle (left foreground)

Michael Collins training for the flight at the Manned Spacecraft Center (now Johnson Space Center), Houston, Texas, in January 1969

Neil Armstrong in the Lunar Module Mission Simulator at the Kennedy Space Center’s Flight Crew Training Building on June 19, 1969.

Armstrong became the first man on the moon on July 21

The press awaits the launch of Apollo 11 from the Kennedy Space Center on July 16, 1969

The Apollo 11 Saturn V spacecraft lifts off on July 16, 1969

Neil Armstrong took this image of Buzz Aldrin prior to the moon landing. They both wore the Omega Speedmaster, the only watch qualified

by Nasa for extravehicular activity in space. Aldrin wore his watch while he walked on the moon, but Armstrong left his onboard the Lunar Module

Buzz Aldrin on the surface of the moon. He was the second man to walk on the moon, shortly after Neil Armstrong

Buzz Aldrin’s wife, Joan, applauds her husband’s return to earth on July 24, 1969

The Apollo 11 astronauts in a dinghy following splashdown in the Pacific Ocean on July 24, 1969

Crowds in New York welcome Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Michael Collins in August 1969

Since 2005, we’ve been keeping pace with Dubai’s rapid growth, lending mobility to the city’s vision with a smart and integrated transport system.

Constantly evolving with every passing year, the Roads and Transport Authority, connects Dubai in more ways than one.

The road ahead looks promising.

Let’s keep moving.

Emirates and Starwood Hotels & Resorts join forces Your World Rewards 速 programme brings benefits for Emirates Skywards and SPG members

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briefing EMIRATES SAYS HELLO TO FREE WI-FI: Making it easier to stay connected THE EMIRATES App FOR IpHOnE: Get the new mobile app ROuTEMAp: Discover the world as connected by Emirates

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news EMIRATES SAYS HELLO TO FREE WI-FI IN THE SKY

EMIRATES HAS MAdE IT EASIER TO STAY cONNEcTEd, EvEN AT 40,000FT,

bY OFFERINg FREE INFLIgHT WI-FI.

Now it’s free to blog, post or tweet from your seat. You can connect to the free Wi-Fi service on most Emirates A380 aircraft, and the airline is working closely with suppliers to roll this out across the fleet.

At the moment you can connect to inflight Wi-Fi on all A380s and select Boeing 777s. Until the service is free on all flights, it’s still only US$1 to get online.

It’s a charge the airline has to impose for the connection fee due to technical limitations.

However, between 20 December and 1 January, Emirates will donate the US$1 to The Emirates Airline Foundation.

Wi-Fi has proved a popular service with customers. In the first three years since Emirates launched inflight Wi-Fi, more than half a million passengers have connected to the service.

“It is a fact that our customers want onboard connectivity. This demand is only going to increase as more people embrace an ‘always-on’ digital lifestyle, and carry smart mobile devices when they travel,” said Sir Tim Clark, President Emirates airline.

“We’ve always viewed Wi-Fi as a service and a value-added part of Emirates’ overall product, rather than a revenue stream.”

When you connect for free, you can enjoy 10MB of data. Plus during the festive season, Emirates will increase that amount to 20MB. That’s enough to search Google, upload photos to Facebook and email the office. If you want to stay online longer, you can pay US$1 to get a generous 500MB. The airline believes free onboard Wi-Fi will become a standard customers expect on a full service airline, according to Clark.

“If we can offer good quality Wi-Fi connections for everyone on board at no charge tomorrow, we will do it,” said Clark. “But we face a

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slew of technical limitations – from speed and bandwidth availability and cost, to the supporting hardware and software – all of which we’re working hard to address with the industry right now.”

The airline is retrofitting its fleet with Wi-Fi, and the carrier is subsidising the high cost of buying data for passengers to use.

Emirates is investing more than US$20 million annually to achieve its goal of 100 per cent connectivity across its fleet.

THE EMIRATES AIRLINE FOuNdATION is a non-profit

charity organisation which aims to improve the quality of life for children in need, regardless of geographical, political, or religious boundaries. You can read more about the foundation and its projects in the newsletter in your seat pocket.

emiratesairlinefoundation.org

briefing

news EMIRATES AND SPG LAUNCH YOUR WORLD REWARDS速

EMIRATES AND STARWOOD HOTELS & RESORTS WORLDWIDE HAvE PARTNERED TO OffER bENEfITS TO EMIRATES SkYWARDS AND STARWOOD PREfERRED GUEST MEMbERS.

The programme, Your World Rewards 速, allows Emirates Skywards and SPG members to increase their earnings and benefits when they fly with Emirates or stay in a Starwood property.

Elite Emirates Skywards and SPG members will receive the exclusive rewards of each loyalty programme while Emirates Skywards Gold and Platinum

members will have the opportunity to upgrade their hotel experience, receiving exclusive benefits, including access to SPG elite check-in, 4pm late check-out and complimentary in-room internet access.

In turn, all SPG Platinum members will enjoy some of the advantages of Emirates Skywards elite such as priority check-in and priority boarding when flying Emirates. SPG members will also receive complimentary e-gate access for flights in and out of Dubai and earn bonus Starpoints 速 when they fly with Emirates and bonus

Get to your gate on time Don't miss your flight Please make sure you get to your boarding gate on time.

Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.

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Open skies / December 2014

Skywards Miles when they stay with SPG on top of their usual earnings.

SPG members will earn one Starpoint per dollar, in addition to Skywards Miles, for all eligible Emirates flights, and all Emirates Skywards Silver, Gold and Platinum members will earn the equivalent of one Mile per dollar, on top of Starpoints, for all eligible stays at Starwood hotels and resorts worldwide. Conversion rates will be adjusted for local currencies.

To learn more or to sign up to Your World Rewards 速, visit emirates.com/yourworldrewards or spg.com/yourworldrewards.

perfumery is available in

briefing

news thE EmiratEs app fOr iphOnE thE EmiratEs app fOr iphOnE lEts yOu bOOk yOur flight at thE tap Of a fingEr and much mOrE.

View your personal travel itinerary on the go. With the app, you can book your flights, manage your Emirates Skywards account, check-in and manage every aspect of your booking, from seat selection to ordering your meal. Get quick updates about your flight boarding, gate changes, check-in and when your flight departs or arrives sent straight to your iPhone. First Class and Business Class passengers can also use the app to book complimentary Chauffeur-drive services. You can also email your boarding pass to print it later, send it to your phone via SMS or email and use it as a digital boarding pass or download directly to Passbook. The Emirates App is available for download on the App Store.

EmiratEs and australian OpEn sErvE up multi-yEar dEal

A Grand Slam sign-up for Emirates and the Australian Open, Todd Woodbridge, former Australian doubles champion, was on hand to celebrate the partnership announcement

EmiratEs and thE australian OpEn havE annOuncEd a multiyEar dEal that will sEE thE twO glObal brands unitE fOr thE first timE.

Sir Tim Clark, President of Emirates Airline, said the deal reflected the airline’s commitment to tennis and its strategic ambition to promote Australia as a travel destination.

“The Australian Open is a first class sporting event drawing a truly

global audience to Melbourne Park each summer, while millions more watch the action on screen,” Sir Tim said. “Our commitment to the Australian Open and the Emirates Australian Open Series is a natural extension of our existing tennis sponsorship portfolio around the globe, which now includes three of the four Grand Slams.”

The agreement also includes sponsorship of the elite Australian Open Series, the official lead-in to

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the first Grand Slam of the year.

From this summer the series will be rebranded the Emirates Australian Open Series, with the airline a partner for all five marquee events held ahead of the Australian Open: Hopman Cup (Perth), Brisbane International, Apia International Sydney, Hobart International and the World Tennis Challenge (Adelaide).

Emirates’ tennis portfolio includes some of the highest profile events on the tennis calendar, including the Grand Slams Roland Garros and the US Open, the Emirates Airline US Open Series, the Dubai Tennis Championships (UAE), BNP Paribas Open (USA), Barcelona Open (ESP), Internazionali BNL d'Italia (ITA) and Rogers Cup (CAN).

Emirates is also the official airline of the ATP World Tour and naming rights sponsor of the ATP rankings.

briefing

news World-class XcaT poWerboaT racing in dubai

This monTh, from 11Th To 13Th december, The emiraTessponsored 2014 uim skydive dubai XcaT World series Takes place in dubai. The event will see

14 powerboat teams from across the world compete in the race for pole position, as well as a high speed, head-to-head Speet Cat Run, which pits two boats against each other, drag-race style over a 1km course. The main event is the Emirates Airline XCAT GP held on the Saturday.

The Dubai International Marine Club (DIMC) will play host to the event, which is the final in this year’s series, which has seen events in Italy and the UAE. 2015 will see further expansion with races scheduled for more European destinations, China, South America and Australia, among other spectacular venues.

“We are thrilled to have Emirates sponsoring the final round of the XCAT World Series,” said HE Dr Saif Al Ketbi, President of the WPPA, owners and organisers of the series. “We are looking forward to a magnificent event where Dubai crowds will be treated to a phenomenal display of top-class racing, while also taking in the electrifying atmosphere in the race village where there is something on offer to keep all ages entertained.”

The XCAT World Series stands well apart from other offshore powerboat racing events thanks to its unrelenting desire to reinvent and enhance the sport, delivering a unique, all-encompassing experience for host cities, spectators and the teams involved where the sport, business and host venues all benefit.

Making this all possible is

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Open skies / December 2014

a unique, containerised system used to transport the competing boats and other equipment in an exceptionally efficient manner. This new system, referred to as ‘Cat in a box’, enables the entire Series race set-up including hospitality facilities and a race village to be transported globally within the confines of standard shipping containers – a system of which the XCAT organisers are immensely proud.

Organisers and teams involved in the Series are passionate about delivering a unique spectacle.

XCAT races are thrilling yet safe and environmentally friendly, are educational yet exciting, provide a new and fresh way to engage with the public and are constantly evolving and embracing change to deliver the best possible experience. xcatracing.com

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news celebrate 2015 in Dubai

C

M

Y

Dubai is one of the best cities in the worlD to celebrate new Year’s eve, especiallY if You are looking for a worlD-class fireworks DisplaY. here are four top choices:

CM

MY

CY

CMY

1. Downtown Dubai

K

At the heart of the firework action, Downtown Dubai not only has the convenience of shops, restaurants and easy access to public transport, but it is also the ideal spot to view the display on Burj Khalifa. Fewer vantage points are more dramatic.

2. the palm Its iconic fronds and many hotels mean fireworks are guaranteed at The Palm. Watch from the trunk or hire a boat and see it all from the sea.

3. the creek Old Dubai sparkles when there are fireworks overhead, and there are few better places to watch them from than on a dhow in the creek.

4. the Desert Take a trip into the desert and watch the complete spectacle from a distance. This one is weather dependent of course, but if it is a clear night, the chance to see Dubai’s famous skyline alive with fireworks from the dark of the desert is not to be missed.

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City Guide MILAN

Starting this month the Emirates A380 flies daily to Milan

MILAN WILL HOST ExPO 2015 FROM MAY 1 TO OCTObER 31, 2015, AND IN THE RUN-UP ITALY’S SECOND CITY IS SURE TO bE EvEN MORE LIvELY THAN USUAL. Cultural attractions

are plentiful in Milan, despite a reputation for being primarily a business and industrial hub. Yes, this is a destination that thrives on work and industry, and may not boast some of the softer edges to be found in some of Italy’s more tourist-focused locations, but it is a fashion and design capital boasting a rich history, incredible shopping, world-class restaurants and a vibrant nightlife that makes for a fantastic trip, whether it is for business or pleasure.

DUOMO DI MILANO

LA SCALA

Italy’s largest cathedral and the fifth largest in the world, Duomo di Milano is dedicated to Santa Maria Nascente. Construction began in the late 14th century, and since then the building has been at the heart of Milan’s story. Tourists even have access to the roof, which offers incredible views across the city.

Inside, there is plenty to explore, including various sarcophagi, imposing altars and many a statues.

Mark Twain saw fit to dedicate a whole chapter of his book Innocents Abroad to the cathedral, concluding, “I cannot understand how it can be second to anything made by human hands.”

Recognised as one of the best opera ballet houses in the world, La Scala has played host to the finest operatic singers and performers.

The interior has recently benefitted from major renovations, completed in 2004, which have restored it to its former magnificence. Once again tickets are incredibly hard to come by, but there are tours of the building when performances are not on, offering the chance to take in the architecture. Puccini’s opera Turandot is set to be an early highlight of the 2015 schedule.

THE LAST SUPPER One of the world’s most famous paintings resides in Milan: the 15th century mural by Leonardo da Vinci in the refectory of the Convent Of Santa Maria delle Grazie, The Last Supper. It has inspired numerous references in popular culture, notably Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code.

People plan trips from across the globe just to see The Last Supper, but visitors are only allowed 15 minutes to look at it. Booking is essential, tickets for peak season viewing are sold out often months in advance.

QUADRILATERO D’ORO Milan is a fashion city and in the Quadrilatero d’Oro (Rectangle Of Gold) you will discover high-end boutiques boasting Italy’s finest haute couture. Versace, Valentino, Dior, Armani – they all have a presence. If the prices are too high, the area is still worth a visit as the window displays are often events in themselves, and the pavements outside the boutiques are awash with shoppers wearing what is normally found exclusively on the catwalk. People watching has never been so exclusive.

Starting 1st December, Emirates brings the A380 onto one of its three daily Milan services.

POPULATION: 4,058,211 LANGUAGE: Italian CURRENCY: Euro CLIMATE: Cold wet winters are replaced with moderately hot summers that can be humid. Alps to the north often block severe cold weather.

HISTORICAL FACT: Benito Mussolini began his march on Rome in Milan in 1919.

FAMOUS RESIDENT: Three-time prime minister of Italy Silvio Berlusconi was born in Milan.

WHAT IS MILAN FAMOUS FOR? Its vibrant fashion industry.

DID YOU KNOW? Italy’s stock exchange is in Milan, Borsa Italiana.

WHAT TO EAT: Panettone is a sweet bread loaf cake enjoyed at Christmas and it originated in Milan.

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Daddy,

have you called

Choose a car you can relate to.

Explore our exclusive highend fleet: Mercedes, Audi, BMW, Ferrari, Rolls-Royce and more.

Available for daily, weekly, monthly and lease. *Terms and conditions apply.

?

briefing

Comfort

Wellness in the air To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

smart traveller

Drink plentY of Water Rehydrate with water or juices frequently.

Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

travel lightlY Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Before Your JourneY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

Wear glasses Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

at the airport Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

use skin moisturiser Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

keep moving Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles.

This encourages blood flow.

During the flight Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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make Yourself comfortaBle Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

When You arrive Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE ON YOUR DOORSTEP MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES: • • • • • •

Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic

Welcare Hospital Dubai Mall Meadows Mirdif Beach Road Corniche

• Mediclinic City Hospital • Mediclinic Ibn Battuta • Mediclinic Arabian Ranches • Mediclinic Al Qusais • Mediclinic Al Sufouh

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. UAE • SOUTH AFRICA • NAMIBIA • SWITZERLAND www.mediclinic.ae

briefing

Visas, QUiCK CONNECT & QUaRaNTiNE iNFORmaTiON Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSTomS DEClArATIon Form

electronic system for travel authorisation (esta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

esta facts:

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only.

The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply online at www.cbp.Gov/esta nationalities eliGible for the visa waiver*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, latvia, liechtenstein, lithuania, luxemburg, malta, monaco, The netherlands, new Zealand, norway, Portugal, San marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* subject to chanGe ** only british citizens qualify under the visa waiver proGramme.

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CUT THE QUEUE AT JFK WITH QUICK CONNECT If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

FOLLOW THESE STEPS:

1 Have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

2

3

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals Hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

4 If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to Emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

QUARANTINE IN AUSTRALIA Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

QUARANTINE IN JAPAN Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.

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BRIEFING

UAE SMART GATE BE SMART!

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

If you hold a machine-readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

France

Germany

Greece

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can scan your UAE Emirates ID card.

If you have an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot

2 3

OK!

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed.

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UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

Machine-readable passports from the above countries UAE Emirates ID cards E-Gate cards

• • • • • • • •

Contract Drafting & Review Business Setup , Offshore & Free Zone Companies Corporate & Commercial Legal Services Litigation & Arbitration Debt Collection Banking, Insurance & Maritime Cases Real Estate, Construction & Labor Cases Trademarks, Patents & Copyrights

‫ﺻﻴﺎﻏﺔ ﺍﻟﻌﻘﻮﺩ ﻭﻣﺮﺍﺟﻌﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺗﺄﺳﻴﺲ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ ﻭﺍﻷﻭﻓﺸﻮﺭ ﻭﺍﳌﻨﺎﻃﻖ ﺍﳊﺮﺓ‬ ‫ﺍﳋﺪﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﻘﺎﻧﻮﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻸﻓﺮﺍﺩ ﻭﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺘﻘﺎﺿﻲ ﻭ ﺍﻟﺘﺤﻜﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﲢﺼﻴﻞ ﺍﻟﺪﻳﻮﻥ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﻨﻮﻙ ﻭﺍﻟﺘﺄﻣﲔ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﳌﻘﺎﻭﻻﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻌﻘﺎﺭﺍﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﻌﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﻌﻼﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﺘﺠﺎﺭﻳﺔ ﻭﺑﺮﺍﺀﺍﺕ ﺍﻻﺧﺘﺮﺍﻉ ﻭﺣﻘﻮﻕ ﺍﳌﺆﻟﻒ‬

• • • • • • • •

DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 contact@emiratesadvocates.com | www.emiratesadvocates.com ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446 auh@emiratesadvocates.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH Tel: +971 7 2046719 rak@emiratesadvocates.com

DUBAI INTERNET CITY Tel: +971 4 3900820 dic@emiratesadvocates.com

SHARJAH Tel: +971 6 5728666 shj@emiratesadvocates.com

JEBEL ALI Tel: +971 4 8871679 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com

DIFC Tel: +971 4 4019562 difc@emiratesadvocates.com

WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN

FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99

ROUTE MAP

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ROUTE MAP

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For more information, please visit our website on www.amb.ae or contact us on marketing@amb.ae

ROUTE MAP

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the FLeet

Our fleet contains 236 aircraft made up of 222 passenger aircraft and 14 cargo aircraft

Boeing 777-300eR

Number of Aircraft: 102 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-300

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777-200LR

Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-200

Number of Aircraft: 8 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777F

Number of Aircraft: 12 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

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Airbus A380-800

Number of Aircraft: 57 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

Airbus A340-500

Number of Aircraft: 8 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

Airbus A340-300

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

Airbus A330-200

Number of Aircraft: 21 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

boeing 747-400erF

Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers through end December 2014

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last look

Los Angeles MADDIE DOLAN, 18, AGRICULTURAL BUSINESS STUDENT AT POMONA, THE GROVE

IMAGE: MELODIE JENG, THENYCSTREETS.COM

I live in Los Angles because I go to school here at Cal Poly Pomona, but I love the fashion, the culture and learning new things about the city. I’m here at [outdoor mall and entertainment complex] The Grove today shopping with one of my girlfriends, and we’re going to get lunch at The Cheesecake Factory. I love the people and the vibe here at The Grove. I would describe my style as kind of edgy. Today I wanted to look cute at the Grove, and I was feeling the booties – they’re in right now.

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