Openskies | August 2014

CHICAGO THE ARCHITECTURAL CAPITAL OF THE UNITED STATES

THE NEW FRAGRANCE FOR MEN

THE NEW FRAGRANCE FOR MEN

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The All New

CONTENTS / AUGUST 2014

31

Taking a walk on Boston’s Newbury Street

38

Badbadnotgood’s Matthew Tavares reveals his favourite tracks

46

44 40

Our verdict on Las Vegas stalwart the MGM Grand

55

Talking vinyl with the owner of San Francisco’s aQuarius Records

7

Chef Chris Pandel shares his favourite places to eat in Chicago

OPEN SKIES / AUGUST 2014

49

Our comprehensive guide to New York

The Kiwi couple behind Dubai’s Raw Coffee Company

contents / august 2014

74

Everyone Goes Home In October

front (17) Calendar The Grid The Question The Street Skypod

19 26 28 31 38

The Room Consume BLD Mapped Local Knowledge

Main (63)

40 43 46 49 55

briefing (83)

The Architectural Capital of the United States Everyone Goes Home In October

64 74

News Comfort Visas & UAE Smart Gate Route Map The Fleet Last Look

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Open skies / august 2014

84 94 96 98 104 106

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CARLSBAD ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MOSCOW MUMBAI NEW YORK OSAKA RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO

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ContrIBUtors Andrew Birbeck, Marina Chetner, Gemma Correll, Matthew Fortune, hg2.com, Melodie Jeng, Jamie Knights, Chaney Kwak, Jarrod McCabe, Jay Merrick, Adrian Mourby, Louis Pattison, Robbie Porter, Brittany Shoot, Kristin Teig, Sandra Tinari Head oF prodUCtIon S Sunil Kumar senIor prodUCtIon ManaGer C Sudhakar assIstant prodUCtIon ManaGer R Murali Krishnan

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InternatIonal senIor sales ManaGer Michael Underdown michael@motivate.ae depUtY sales ManaGer Amar Kamath

edItorIal ConsUltants For eMIrates edItor Jonathan Hill araBIC edItor Hatem Omar depUtY edItor Andy Grant WeBsIte emirates.com InternatIonal MedIa representatIves aUstralIa/neW Zealand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au BelGIUM and lUXeMBoUrG M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com CHIna Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 GerManY IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, w.jaeger@imv-media.com HonG KonG/MalaYsIa/tHaIland Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, hemant@sonneymedia.com IndIa Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, ravi@mediastar.co.in FranCe/ItalY & spaIn IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imm-international.com Japan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, all@tandem-inc.com netHerlands giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, giovanni@giO-media.nl tUrKeY Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com Usa Totem Brand Stories; Tel +1 4168475100, nicole.mullin@tc.tc

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102,863 copies – December 2013

Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

EDITOR’S LETTER

E Gareth Rees, Editor

“I WAS STAYING AT THE INFAMOUS HOTEL CHELSEA, AND I SPENT THREE DAYS WANDERING THE STREETS OF ONE OF THE GREATEST CITIES ON EARTH” NOW AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD!

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mirates opens its latest North America route this month: Chicago. In honour of that achievement, we have decided to dedicate this issue to America.

I might have admitted this before, but, unlike most children, America was not a country I yearned to visit as a child. Perhaps, because I was a greedy imbiber of American films and books (as I still am), I felt I had already been there. But, that changed the moment I arrived in New York for the first time back in August 2008.

Even then I was only in town for a few days prior to a family wedding in Boston, but it was summertime, I was staying at the infamous Hotel Chelsea, where Bukowski, Dylan Thomas, Jack Kerouac and Bob Dylan had stayed before me, and I spent three days in a daze, wandering the streets of one of the greatest cities on earth alone.

What more could one ask for from a first visit to the Big Apple? Well, I returned in November 2011, ran the New York City Marathon (the course encompasses all five boroughs) and got engaged, so I guess very tired legs and a wife is the answer, but, whatever, I fell in love with America.

On that same visit, I travelled to Boston again, and set foot in Chicago for the first time, where we enjoyed a cold (November in Chicago is rather chilly) but extremely enjoyable architectural river cruise and ogled some of the most inspiring buildings ever constructed. We could see John Hancock Center (where we later enjoyed a celebratory glass of champagne on the 96th floor) from our hotel window. Chicago is the city that got me hooked on architecture.

So, when it came to commissioning a story on Chicago, it wasn’t hard to decide upon a topic: Chicago’s astounding architecture, obviously.

Choosing a man with the perfect balance of knowledge and passion for the subject wasn’t too difficult, either: architecture writer and regular Open

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ON THE COVER / Emirates now flies to Chicago, the city that architectural writer Jay Merrick has dubbed “The Architectural Capital of the United States”, so rather than confuse things with too much design, we decided to go with this striking shot of one of America’s most spectacular skylines.

Skies contributor Jay Merrick delights in writing about buildings and the master architects who build them, and, as he states in the wonderful paen to Chicago architecture he has written for this issue, he believes that the Windy City is the architectural capital of the United States. I agree (Jay, and John Hancock Center, can be very persuasive), and once you have read Jay’s feature, or visited Chicago to see for yourself (did I mention Emirates flies there now), I’m sure you will, too.

Our second celebration of America focuses on Lowell, Massachusetts, a town that most tourists wouldn’t usually think of visiting. But, a short journey from Boston, it is the birthplace of one of America’s greatest ever writers, Jack Kerouac. I loved Jack Kerouac’s books as a teenager, and I still regularly return to them now. Adrian Mourby, who paid a visit to the town that Kerouac loved for this issue, has done a superb job of bringing Jack’s Lowell to life. Enjoy the issue.

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CONTRIBUTORS

SOME OF THE PEOPLE WHO HELPED CREATE THIS MAGAZINE

JARROD MCCABE

Jarrod is a photographer from Boston. In addition to his photographic career shooting feature stories for magazines and album art for bands such as Lake Street Dive, he is currently working on a project sending fake postcards.

To receive a fake postcard, email your name and address to McCabe with the following subject heading: I Love Fake Postcards. For this issue, Jarrod photographed Jack Kerouac’s hometown, Lowell.

“Roaming downtown Lowell before dawn to shoot the Sun Building at sunrise was unforgettable,” he says.

KRISTIN TEIG

Boston-based photographer Kristin’s work has appeared in The Boston Globe Magazine, Food Arts, Travel + Leisure and Wine Spectator. This fall, she will be cohosting workshops in Italy and Ireland that integrate her love of food, photography and travel. For this issue, she photographed Boston’s Newbury Street.

“When I moved to the east coast from San Diego and first saw Newbury Street, the brownstones and tree-lined street matched the image I had of Boston before arriving,” she says.

“Since then, I’ve found it to be much more than that.”

ADRIAN MOURBY

Adrian has been a freelance writer and full-time traveller since the late 1990s.

He has won numerous writing and broadcasting awards and written two AA guidebooks.

He’s also published four novels and is working on his fifth. For this issue he travelled to Lowell, the birthplace of one of America’s greatest writer’s, Jack Kerouac.

“It was fascinating to visit Lowell,” he says. “People know Jack Kerouac’s work from On The Road and his later novels, but before that book he wrote compulsively about Lowell.

Lowell truly is where the Road began.”

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OPEN SKIES / AUGUST 2014

BRITTANY SHOOT

MELODIE JENG

“Certain blocks of Newbury Street can feel a bit commercial, but it isn’t all chain retailers and highend boutiques,” she says. “If you know the street’s rich history, it’s easy to spot architectural landmarks and patronise the independently owned and operated businesses that helped make the tree-lined lane a destination loved by many – myself included.”

“Visiting Harlem for this assignment got me out of my comfort zone,” she says. “I photographed a real New Yorker, and it was great to hear the pride and positivity that Marvin had about Harlem.”

Brittany is a San Francisco-based writer and editor contributing to publications including Time, The Guardian, The Economist and Centurion. For this issue, she visited Boston’s Newbury Street.

Melodie grew up in Cincinnati, Ohio, and moved to New York City to study photography at New York University. She has contributed to Details.com, Models. com, Refinery29, Harper’s Bazaar China, The New York Times T Magazine Blog and Vogue Paris, and has worked with brands such as Gucci, Topshop and Saks Fifth Avenue. She hopes you enjoy this month’s ‘Last Look’ from Harlem, New York.

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Newbury Street Explore one of downtown Boston’s most vibrant streets

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front ChiCaCo: Chef Chris Pandel shares his favourite places to eat in the Windy City DUBai: The local coffee roaster at the heart of the city’s independent food and drink community

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Open skies / august 2014

46 55

august

CALENDAR

until august 3, Maine, USA

July 25 to August 10, Loiza, Puerto rico

Fiestas Del Apostol Santiago Bomba music, brightly coloured costumes, masks, parades and dance shows are all part of the annual festivities to honour Saint James, Loíza’s patron saint and protector. Three processions take place over consecutive days as part of the celebration: Santiago Of The Men, Santiago Of The Women and Santiago Of The Children. Four types of masked characters participate in the parades, all of which are played by men. The bomba begins at nightfall and continues until dawn, with drummers forming a circle around a dancer and synchronising their drumbeats to the hip movements of the dancer.

MaINE LOBstER FEstIVaL

Consisting of a parade, live music acts, a 10km road race, arts and crafts and 20,000lb of cooked lobster, the Maine Lobster Festival is very much a family event. Organised by more than 1,000 volunteers each year, the festival serves up clams, crabs, calamari, scallops and haddock – all sourced from the nearby Atlantic Ocean.

MAineLObSterFeStivAL.COM

August 1 to 11, Kandy, Sri Lanka

Esala Perahera

august 1 to 4, Heimaey, Iceland

WEstMaN IsLaNDs FEstIVaL

Held in the city of Kandy, a Unesco World Heritage Site, the Esala Perahera is one of the most important festivals in the Buddhist calendar. The festival is based on an ancient legend: a tooth, stolen from Buddha’s funeral pyre and smuggled from India into Sri Lanka, is now kept in Dalada Maligawa, The Temple Of The Tooth. Famous for its large processions of dancers, flag bearers, drummers, fire acrobats and colourfully adorned elephants, the ten-day festival ends with a ‘water cutting’ ceremony at the Mahaweli River, with the intent of dividing between the pure and impure. dALAdAMALigAWA.Org

each year in early August the population of the Westman islands in iceland rises from just a little more than 4,000 to around 16,000 to celebrate Þjóðhátíð (Festival Of the People). the Westman islands Festival came about as islanders often couldn’t join the annual celebrations on the mainland due to dangerous seas. there is a main event each night of the festival with a huge bonfire on the Friday night, a fireworks display on the Saturday night and a sing along and re-enactment of the island’s eldfell volcano eruption on the Sunday night. Locals pitch white tents over the course of the weekend and serve up the local delicacy of smoked puffin to friends and visitors. dALUrinn.iS/en

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AUGUST

CALENDAR

August 1 to 25, Edinburgh, Scotland

EDINBURGH FESTIVAL FRINGE

The world’s largest arts festival brings together more than 40,000 cabaret, comedy, music, theatre, musical and opera performances from more than 50 different countries over the course of 25 days. The Festival Fringe began in 1947 as an alternative to the Edinburgh International Festival when eight theatre companies arrived uninvited and performed on the edges of the festival. The following year more groups arrived to perform and were documented by the playwright Robert Kemp as performing, “Round the fringe of the official Festival…” which is how the Festival Fringe got its name.

August 7 to 9, Gothenburg, Sweden

Way Out West

Headlined by acts such as Outkast, Queens Of The Stone Age, Pusha T, Crookers and The Chemical Brothers, Gothenburg’s Way Out West music festival attracts a crowd of up to 30,000 each year. At night the festival transitions into Stay Out West, which incorporates musical performances at local club venues around the city as well as a film festival and various art exhibitions.

WAYOUTWEST.SE

EDFRINGE.COM

August 8 to 10, San Francisco, USA

August 8 to 11, British Columbia, Canada

Outside lands Outside Lands has taken large strides to become one of the biggest and most popular music festivals in America.

With tickets selling out within a day, the line up for this year’s event is a star-studded affair with Kanye West, Arctic Monkeys, The Killers, Tom Petty and The Heartbreakers and Chromeo all headlining. Held at Golden Gate Park, the festival is also famous for its food, beer and wine served by vendors from the San Francisco Bay Area. The festival has an eco-friendly focus with a solar-powered stage, bike valet and local farmer’s market.

SHAMBHALA

One of Canada’s longest running and largest electronic music festivals, Shambhala is a family-run, alcohol-free festival that receives no corporate sponsorship. Run by volunteers, the event is held on the Budschuh family ranch in British Columbia’s Salmo River Valley and attracts more than 10,000 attendees each year. This year’s line up includes Andy C, Bassnectar, Danny Byrd and Mt Eden.

SHAMBHALAMUSICFESTIVAL.COM

SFOUTSIDELANDS.COM

Skypod 20

Badbadnotgood page 38

OPEN SKIES / AUGUST 2014

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August

CALENDAR

August 13 to 15, Japan

OBON

Celebrated in Japan for more than 500 years, obon is an occasion to commemorate one’s ancestors and is based on a Buddhist legend that tells of the spirits of deceased ancestors returning to earth to visit their families. the festival lasts three days and involves rituals of lighting lanterns, visiting graves, performing bon odori – a traditional folk dance – and ends with the picturesque toro Nagashi, during which hundreds of candlelit lanterns are floated down rivers to symbolise the ancestral spirit’s return to the world of the dead.

August 15 to 17, Pennsylvania, USA

Philadelphia Folk Festival Now in its 53rd year, the Philadelphia Folk Festival is a familyfriendly event aimed at preserving the history of folk music.

Camping is provided onsite for the 20,000 festivalgoers, and children under 12 gain free entry. The festival also features a craft show and workshops.

PfS.org/folk-feStivAl

August 24, llanwrtyd Wells, Wales

WORLD BOg sNORKELLINg CHAMPIONsHIPs

August 16 to 17, mount Hagen, Papua New guinea

Mount Hagen Cultural Show

Since 1985 llanwrtyd Wells in Wales has played host to the World Bog Snorkelling Championships. the championships require individuals to swim two lengths of a water-filled trench, cut through the middle of a peat bog, in the shortest time possible. the competition rules stipulate that competitors must wear a snorkel and flippers and complete their swim without using any conventional swimming strokes. greeN-eveNtS.Co.Uk

Mount Hagen plays host to one of the largest sing-sings (tribal gatherings) in Papa New Guinea this month. With more than 100 tribes in attendance, the concept is simple: each tribe performs its own dance based on its own unique legend, and the performance receiving the most applause wins.

BorYeoNgmUdfeStivAl.Com

Mapped

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Open skies / august 2014

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August 24 to 25, london, uK

NOttINg HILL CARNIVAL starting in 1964 as an attempt to boost race relations in london, Europe’s largest street festival celebrates the West indian migrant community. Floats, costumes, food stalls and performers are all part of the event, which places an emphasis on music – traditional steel bands, soca and calypso and more than 40 static sound systems all contribute to the raucous atmosphere of this vibrant event. thElOndOnnOttinGhillCArniVAl.COM

August 25 to September 1, nevada, usA

Burning Man

Each year for one week, Nevada’s Black Rock desert comes alive with 60,000 ‘participants’ for the Burning Man festival. Described as a culmination of community, art, self-expression and self-reliance, the event’s name comes from the ritual burning of a wooden effigy, which occurs on the Saturday of the event. burninGMAn.COM

August 27 to 30, Oulu, Finland

AIR guItAR WORLD CHAMPIONsHIPs August 27, Valencia, spain

La Tomatina Attended by approximately 30,000 people each year, La Tomatina involves participants throwing more than 100 tonnes of overripe tomatoes at each other. Held in the Valencian town of Buñol since 1945, there are conflicting stories about how the festival started.

The firing of a water canon heralds the start of the tomato fight, and exactly an hour later a second firing signals the end. lAtOMAtinA.OrG

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First held in 1996 as part of the Oulu Video Music festival, the Air Guitar World Championships has become an event in its own right. Judged on technical merit, mimesmanship, stage presence and airness, competitors in the Air Guitar World Championships have two 60-second performances to impress judges with their air guitar skills.

AirGuitArWOrldChAMpiOnship.COM

THE GRID August 8 to 16 FIBA U17 World Championship For Men Dubai, UAE

THE THREE BIGGEST EVENTS TAKING PLACE IN THE UAE THIS MONTH...

FIBA (International Basketball Federation) U17 World Championships for men sees host nation Dubai competing for the first time along with 15 other nations. Games will be played at the Al Ahli Arena and Al Wasl Arena, with the final rounds being contested at the Hamdan Sports Complex. fiba.com

August 21 – 31 La Verità Abu Dhabi, UAE

August 31 to September 1 FINA Swimming World Cup Dubai, UAE

Set against an original Salvador Dali backdrop, La Verità celebrates the life and work of Dali. Produced

by Finzi Pasca (who also produced Cirque du Soleil’s Corteo) the show features vivid colours, acrobats, dancing and much more. abudhabievents.ae

Hamdan Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid Sports Complex plays host to the FINA Swimming World Cup, with swimmers competing over a short course distance of 25 metres. fina.org

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48 I 56 I 63 I 70 I 77 I 88 I 101 I 105 I 121 I 125 I 135 I 155

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the question

WHY DO WE LOVE MUSIC? Why we love to listen and make music comes down to a reward system within our brains, according to the majority of scientists who have looked into the matter.

Neuroscientist Valorie Salimpoor argued in research published in Science in 2013 that music triggers activity in the nucleus accumbens, the same brain structure that releases the pleasure-inducing chemical dopamine during eating. But music also activates the amygdala, the part of the brain that processes emotion, and the prefrontal cortex, which is the bit involved in abstract decision making. “When we’re listening to music, the most advanced areas of the brain tie in to the most ancient,” Salimpoor wrote.

This study suggested that music is, therefore, not just a sensory reward, but an intellectual one as well. The nature of that reward is based on pattern recognition and prediction, which goes some way towards explaining why different cultures take pleasure from

music that is more familiar to them. Music taps into the brain’s ability to recognise patterns and make assumptions on what is going to happen. Dr John Powell, author of How Music Works, explains this enjoyment of music as “largely down to the building up and release of tension”. There is a key note in most music, and we arrive at it through musical phrases, so in essence we are following a conversation and taking part in a journey. This can be seen in musical scores of films, where the music echoes the action on screen. The listener or viewer has expectations of where the music is heading and in turn the events being portrayed. The music can then either fulfil the listener’s expectation or frustrate it with an unexpected twist.

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TWITTER Q&A Booty’s Street Food explains itself in 140 characters or less @OpenSkiesMag: What is Booty’s Street Food? @bootys: BSF is a neighbourhood restaurant in the Bywater neighbourhood of New Orleans serving street food from all over the world. @OpenSkiesMag: How did the concept come about? @bootys: Co-owner @worldi is a travel journalist/filmmaker, and his most popular segments were always on street food around the world @OpenSkiesMag: How vibrant is the New Orleans food scene? @bootys: NOLA has been a culinary destination for over a century. Food is integral to the fabric of life with new places every week. @OpenSkiesMag: What kind of dishes do you serve? @bootys: Our menu changes often, so at any given time we’ve got: yuca mofongo, tacos, ramen, fish and chips, gunmando, moros y curdo... @OpenSkiesMag: What is the price range? @bootys: Our dishes range from single tacos at US$2.5 to our ramen and other dishes full of protein from US$10 to US$12. It’s all made for sharing. @OpenSkiesMag: How do you choose what dishes to serve? @bootys: It’s a collaborative effort between the kitchen, owners and our regulars. We often make something on suggestion from a guest. @OpenSkiesMag: We hear you have a hidden art gallery... @bootys: We do! It’s called Bywaterloo, a rotating art installation where two artists install an immersive experience in our bathrooms. @OpenSkiesMag: Have you got anything big coming up in August? @bootys: August is the hottest month of the year here, so we tend to focus on ice cold daiquiris and cocktails! :D

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the street

Newbury Street, Boston Words by Brittany Shoot / Images by Kristin Teig

Just one-mile long, downtown Boston’s iconic Newbury Street is a quintessential New England blend of upscale shopping and single-family brownstones. But it wasn’t always so. Many of the neighbourhood’s historic landmarks date back more than a century, when the Back Bay district was still an actual bay of water between Boston and Cambridge.

Several prominent 19th century architects developed the filled land district in the former colonial capital with a vision to create

Parisian-style avenues. The grid of Back Bay streets lined with flowering magnolia trees became a destination. Over the decades, row houses became storefronts, and the once residential Newbury Street was transformed into an eclectic shopping hotspot and was an early home for the influential Massachusetts Institute Of Technology, now located across the Charles River in Cambridge.

In recent years, numerous luxury brands have moved into the high-rent, high-traffic spaces once

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Open skies / august 2014

occupied by independent retailers and unique boutiques. Famed architect Frank Gehry transformed an empty warehouse into extravagant condos. Big-box stores that dominated the street’s western end have shuttered, helping the road revert to a more eclectic mix of high-end, affordable and decidedly quirky shops, salons and cafés.

Amid all the transformation, the spirit of Newbury Street – as a welcoming boulevard for Bostonians and visitors from all walks of life – thrives.

the street

Boston Common and the Public Garden Gazing at couples tossing Frisbees on the large lawns, it’s hard to believe that until the early 1800s, Boston Common was a pasture where cattle grazed.

Established in 1634, the Common was the nation’s first public park. Today, the grassy Common is a popular picnic spot and marks the beginning of the Freedom Trail, a walking path that includes 16 sites from the American Revolutionary War. Across Charles Street is the wrought iron fence-enclosed Public Garden, which bookends the eastern side of Newbury Street and served as a backdrop for the children’s classic Make Way For Ducklings. Established as a botanical garden in 1837, the picturesque emerald expanse lives up to its name, with 80 species of regional plants growing across nearly 100,000sqm.

Rose hedges, lush flowerbeds and numerous fountains and bronze statues frequently serve as a wedding backdrop. At the small pond, enjoy a ride on the popular 130-year-old Swan Boats. You’ll likely see the park’s resident swans quietly paddling near the lookalikes they inspired.

Boston Common 131 Tremont Street, Boston Public Garden 69 Beacon Street, Boston Tel: +1 617 635 4505 (number for Parks Dept.) cityofboston.gov/parks/emerald swanboats.com

Trident Booksellers And Café Thirty years ago, there weren’t many shops in Boston where you could while away the hours browsing the bookshelves or sit down with a magazine and a cup of coffee. Independently owned and operated Trident,

widely considered one of the best bookshops in town, helped revolutionise the city’s café culture and weathered the storm when Barnes And Noble moved in down the street (and subsequently closed).

Trident has also won a number of awards for its book and magazine selection, and is open from 8am until midnight, seven days a week, with a full events

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calendar featuring author readings. While you’re there, fill up more than a tote bag.

On the second level, the fullservice restaurant serves fresh juices, strong coffee and filling breakfast favourites such as omelettes and pancakes all day.

338 Newbury Street, Boston Tel: +1 617 267 8688 tridentbookscafe.com

the street

Stephanie’s On Newbury This 20-year-old institution is a favourite on the row, known for its sophisticated American comfort food, stiff cocktails and massive outdoor patio that pairs dining al fresco with some of the city’s best peoplewatching. The warm interior offers a relaxed lounge and bar in addition to a sprawling two-level dining room. Ask about the seasonal sangria, or go straight to the martini menu to order a pineapple Stoli Doli. If shopping helped you work up an appetite, begin with a bowl of classic New England clam chowder before digging into a lobster pot pit or Stephanie’s signature cheddar-stuffed meatloaf. Lighter fare such as crisp salads and warm club sandwiches are available all afternoon. Dinner reservations recommended. If you can’t snag a spot outside, ask about seats near the cosy fireplace or under the second-floor skylight.

190 Newbury Street, Boston Tel: +1 617 236 0990 stephaniesonnewbury.com

Newbury Comics The flagship location of this now 20-plus-location New England institution sells an array of music, DVDs, comics and clothing – and surprisingly few comics, so don’t be misled by the name.

Like Trident, Newbury Comics, which first opened in 1978, outlasted the wave of big-box video

and music stores that flooded the west end of the street during the past few decades. Fun fact: rocker Aimee Mann was a cashier at the Newbury Street location in the early 1980s. Now, the only famous faces you’ll find in Newbury Comics are emblazoned on concert t-shirts.

332 Newbury Street, Boston Tel: +1 617 236 4930 newburycomics.com

Emack And Bolio’s In 1975, Boston music lawyer Bob Rook opened his rock-themed ice cream and frozen yoghurt parlour as a late-night haven for his musician friends and clients.

Rook infused his enterprise with good karma, naming it for two homeless clients to whom he offered pro bono advice. Follow the splash of psychedelic colour into Emack And Bolio’s, where you can savour delicious flavours with hippy-inspired names like Trippin’ On Espresso and Chunk O’Funk, a caramel ice cream with chocolate-covered pretzels and Oreo bits. For a far-out treat, order a scoop in a ‘marsh-mellow’ glazed waffle cone covered with Fruit Loops cereal. If you’re still craving an encore, check out E&B’s selection of delicious homemade fudge.

290 Newbury Street, Boston Tel: +1 617 536 7127 emackandbolios.com

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the street

The Fairy Shop

The Society Of Arts And Crafts The Arts And Crafts Movement of the late 1800s intertwines with the modern age at America’s oldest non-profit devoted to handmade artwork. Founded in 1897 by a group of Boston artists, architects and collectors, the Society Of Arts And Crafts features four exhibitions each year, an intriguing mix of established and emerging New England artists, many trained at nearby design schools including Massachusetts College Of Art and Design and the Rhode Island School Of Design. Along the row of otherwise identical brick buildings, look for the green archway above consignment store The Closet.

The ground-level gallery is filled with local designers’ creations, including a wide selection of unique contemporary jewellery at surprisingly reasonable prices. Check the schedule for upcoming events and shows, like Craftboston, an annual spring crafts showcase, and the Society’s biannual exhibition of functional ceramic cups that runs every November to January.

Open Tuesday to Saturday and Mondays by appointment.

Everyone who wanders up Newbury Street eventually sees The Fairy Shop, if only because its delightful outdoor bubble machine perpetually fills the street with delicate, rainbow-hued bubbles. Inside, the whimsical shop is filled with garden gnomes, plush mermaid and dragon toys and a selection of sterling silver jewellery fit for a fairy. Store hours are at the whim of the owner, Michael, a merry man who will gladly help you select a glittering crystal or find a fanciful gift.

272 Newbury Street, Boston Tel: +1 617 262 2520 thefairyshop.com

332 Newbury Street, Boston Tel: +1 617 236 4930 newburycomics.com

Emmanuel Episcopal Church Built in 1861 – the first building on Newbury – this towering cathedral is one of the architectural crown jewels of the city. Step into the warm, welcoming space – if only to catch a sunbeam shining through the recently restored, stories-high stained glass windows that parishioners have enjoyed for over a century. The contemporary church congregation’s focus on social justice means you’ll find every manner of secular and pious activity in the beautiful, bustling building, including an art studio for the homeless. The in-house orchestra and chorus, Emmanuel Music, performs more than 50 concerts annually. Check the calendar for their next cantata.

15 Newbury Street, Boston Tel: +1 617 536 3355 emmanuelboston.org

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Paragon Shopping and Medical Centre

Tangs Orchard Lucky Plaza

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SKYPOD

BADBADNOTGOOD AGE: 23 GENRE: Jazz CITY: Toronto

Matthew Tavares, keyboard player for Canadian jazz trio BadBadNotGood, shares his favourite tracks

01.

02. 03. 04.

David Axelrod Holy Thursday

Joao Donato Amazonas

Ghostface Killah The Watch

Love Apple Guess I Always Knew

Axelrod made really unique records blending jazz, rock and soul while still being accessible to the masses.

A legendary Brazilian keyboard player – we’ve been obsessed with his discography ever since hearing this song.

Working with Ghostface was a dream come true for us, and this song is a staple in his catalogue.

Numero Group recently issued a rehearsal record by this soul band that only ever performed one show. An amazingly wellwritten song.

05. 06. 07.

08.

Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg Jane B

Freddie Gibbs and Madlib Deeper

John Coltrane Chasin’ The Trane

Drake 0 To 100

An amazing adaptation of a Chopin song turned into a psychedelic R&B track with Jane Birkin’s haunting vocals.

The combination of Freddie’s voice and Madlib’s production is incredible. The album is an instant classic.

He’s basically playing a blues in trio form for 16 minutes, but the performance has so many highs and intense moments of connection.

The music the beatmaker, Boi 1da, samples is by our bass player Chester and producer Frank Dukes, so we’re super proud.

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badbadnotgood.com

the Room

TExT: GARETh REES iMAGES: ThE DUDE, bERLiN

ROOM 25-133

MGM GRAND, LAS VEGAS

The MGM Grand is one of Las Vegas’ most iconic properties, and after an impressive US$160 million remodelling of its rooms, now is the time to visit. The Grand King Premier View isn’t ‘luxurious’, and it doesn’t pretend to be, instead choosing to simplify the stay and nail down the basics, such as an easy to navigate television system on a centre-piece flat-screen. Ultimately, this hotel room, with its tempting view of Vegas life on the street below, is merely a base. It’s all about location in Vegas, and there’s no better place to be situated than the MGM Grand.

Inside you can dine at Wolfgang Puck or one of Joel Robuchon’s two restaurants, while outside Hakkasan delivers exceptional Chinese dining before turning post-midnight into one Vegas’ most happening nightspots. Among the options for after-dinner entertainment are William Shatner’s one-man show and club-come-circus Beacher’s Madhouse. Enjoy it all, safe in the knowledge you’ll have somewhere comfortable to rest your head in the morning. mgmgrand.com

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INTERNET: Free Wi-Fi PILLOWS: Four (more available on request) BED SIZE: King COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS: Water TOILETRY BRAND: Custom-made TV CHANNELS: Unlimited VIEW: 2/5 BURGER DELIVERY TIME: 30minutes RATE: From US$75 to U$405

Bold.pdf

THREE NEW HOTEL OPENINGS

THE SANCHAYA Bintan Island, Indonesia

Made up of 19 private villas and nine suites, The Sanchaya on Bintan Island is a short 45-minute ferry ride from Singapore. The hotel’s décor reflects the Sanchaya’s emphasis on Southeast Asian culture and history, while the hotel bar doubes as a library.

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thesanchaya.com

CM

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THE PENINSULA PARIS Paris, France

CY

CMY

Nestled in the heart of Paris, steps away from the Arc de Triomphe and ChampsÉlysées, The Peninsula Paris opens its doors on August 1.

Formerly the famous Hotel Majestic, where George Gershwin wrote An American In Paris, and subsequently converted to government offices until being sold in 2008, the Peninsula has undergone extensive renovations and features 166 rooms and 34 suites. paris.peninsula.com

PARK HYATT New York, USA

Housed in the towering 90-storey One57 skyscraper in New York, the Park Hyatt is set to open on August 12.

The property boasts an indoor swimming pool with underwater speakers playing music from Carnegie Hall, a restaurant presided over by chef Sam Hazen, and a spa set in a three-storey aerie. newyork.park.hyatt.com

K

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2:16 PM

consume albums

JUNTO Basement Jaxx

Electronic/Dance Dance duo Basement Jaxx return with their seventh studio album, just in time for the big summer music festivals.

The 13-track album is their first since 2009 and features already released singles Unicorn and Mermaid Of Salinas.

NEON FUTURE I Steve Aoki

Electro/house Steve Aoki’s Neon Future I will drop on August 12 with Neon Future II set for release in 2015.

It will feature collaborations with Empire Of The Sun, Fall Out Boy, will.i.am and Flux Pavilion.

I’M NOT BOSSY, I’M THE BOSS Sinead O’Connor

Pop The title of the Irish singersongwriter’s ninth solo album was inspired by the ‘Ban Bossy’ campaign, aimed at encouraging young girls to be leaders.

HYPNOTIC EYE Tom Petty And The Heartbreakers

Rock Tom Petty And The Heartbreakers break a four-year silence with their 13th studio album. A twomonth long North American Tour starts in August.

books

EAST LONDON SWIMMERS Madeleine Waller

Photography East London Swimmers from indie publisher Hoxton Mini Press comprises photographs of swimmers at the London Fields Lido, an outdoor pool in Hackney.

FILM NOIR. 100 ALL TIME FAVORITES Paul Duncan and Jürgen Müller

Film Made up of rare photographs, stills, essays, quotes and posters, Duncan and Müller’s Film Noir is a hefty compendium of the major noir and neo-noir movies.

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COLOURLESS TSUKURU TAZAKI AND HIS YEARS OF PILGRIMAGE Haruki Murakami

Novel Haruki Murakami’s latest novel focuses on a man seeking to find out why he was shunned by his high school friends.

consume The RecoRd Shop

aQuarius Records

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT / aQuarius Records’ co-owner Andee Connors has worked at the store since 1994

aQuarius opened back in 1971. How long have you and co-owner Allan Horrocks been involved?

I’ve worked here since I was 24, so 1994. Allan and I took over in 2003.

Blondie and Elvis Costello used to visit. What a legacy. Who’s the most famous musician to walk through the door since you guys bought the business?

I think most famously, and hilariously, one of the aQ-ers, as we’re called, wouldn’t let Anthony Keidis from the Red Hot Chili Peppers use the bathroom. Otherwise, maybe Björk, Mike Patton, John Zorn, Henry Rollins...

Tell us about the store’s music reviews. Who does them? Is there anything you refuse to stock?

We all write reviews of new stuff we get in. They’re posted on our site and sent out every couple weeks as a huge newsletter. There’s nothing we refuse to stock, other than stuff that’s terrible.

You also run tUMULt record label. How’s that going and what are the plans for the future?

I’ve been running tUMULt since 2000, and have released more than 50 records. It’s on a sort of hiatus now, as I focus on the store, and on actually playing more music myself. I still have lots of plans for the future, but it’s unclear right now when that [tUMULt] will happen. Hopefully not too long.

Where do you find the music, or does it find you?

Everyone who works here is super-obsessive about music. So even if we didn’t work in a record store, we’d all be hunting down new, cool, weird sounds. Our customers are a great source too. We get tonnes of recommendations from folks all over the world.

How important is mail order and where’s the furthest you’ve shipped to?

It probably accounts for about half the business. We have customers spread across the world, many of which consider us to be their ‘local’ record store, since they don’t have one. Lots of them end up being way more than customers; we talk about their kids, their bands, their jobs and what’s going on in their lives. Many become friends; when we travel we visit them, sometimes stay with them. And when they come here we meet up for dinner, record shopping, shows, it’s a special, super-unique relationship. We’re very lucky.

What’s the weirdest thing that’s happened to you since you started working at aQuarius?

Hmmm, lots of weird stuff happens here. What springs to mind is when a lady from the Bravo TV Network came to observe us, hoping to make a reality show about record stores, or the time a huge pick-up truck came barrelling down the street towards the store, hit the curb, flipped in the air, and slid across the sidewalk, stopping inches from the front window.

Finally, who’s your best customer?

Impossible to say. We love them all. We’re definitely lucky to have some of the coolest, weirdest customers in the world, with the best taste in music. aquariusrecords.org

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ImAgeS: AQuARIuS ReCoRdS

San Francisco Questions: Andrew Birbeck / Answers: Co-owner of aQuarius Records, Andee Connors

BLD

Chicago

Image: JaSON aTHeRTON

Chris Pandel, chef of Chicago restaurant The Bristol, reveals his favourite places to eat in the city

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B

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BREAKFAST

LUNCH

DINNER

Uncle Mike’s Place on Grand Avenue is the only Filipino breakfast joint that I have found in Chicago, and I was lucky enough to live around the corner from it for a while. Uncle Mike’s is a bit of a dive, if I’m being honest, but it’s incredibly friendly and no matter which Filipino breakfast you order you will certainly be more than satisfied. There are plenty of other options for those looking for a more traditional American breakfast, but my personal favourite dish on the breakfast menu has to be the Filipino longaniza and tocino combo.

For lunch I really enjoy the sandwiches at Rick and Deann Bayless’ XOCO. Boasting Mexican marketplace flavours, it serves up wonderful street food and snacks from flaky empanadas to churros and crusty tortas. From the house-made hot chocolate to the wood-fired sandwiches, it’s tough to find something not to like on their menu. The agua frescas are also amazing to refresh the palette while walking around downtown in the summer time. And, if you are in a rush, you can also order online to guarantee this awesome Mexican hit of goodness.

Dinner in Chicago is a little difficult to pin down as there are just so many great options and it depends on what one is in the mood for. For something fun and casual, I really like taking my family to Lao Szechuan for some of chef Tony Hu’s authentic Chinese cooking. It’s so good that even my three-year-old requests a visit on a monthly basis. The dried chili beef is one of the standouts on the menu, but bring a towel because you’re going to break a sweat.

Uncle Mike’s Place 1700 West Grand Ave, Chicago Tel +1 (312) 226 5318 unclemikesplace.com

XOCO 449 North Clark Street, Chicago rickbayless.com/restaurants/xoco

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Lao Sze Chuan 4832 N Broadway, Chicago Tel +1 (773) 293 4653 chicagolaoszechuan.com

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Central Park

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SEDAWATTA

Upper East Side

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Queens

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Midtown

New Jersey

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Lower 13 Manhattan

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Brooklyn

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Hotels:

New York

1. The Standard High Line (40.740892, -74.007822)

Restaurants:

Bars:

Galleries:

5. Pok Pok Ny (40.687571, -74.001176)

9. Nitecap (40.719832, -73.98724)

13. The New Museum (40.722338, -73.99289)

New York is a city that needs no introduction, but it’s also one that will defy your expectations. Do you

MoMA 10. The you Dead Rabbit 6. Sushi Nakazawa 2. The Marlton picture blinking lights, speeding cabs and bustling crowds when hear its name? Midtown14.may fit that (40.761449, -73.977341) (40.703257, -74.011006) (40.731763, -74.004555) (40.732600, -73.996933)

billing, but it’s only one pocket of a much wider experience. From verdant Central Park to the historic

15. Theof Metropolitan Museum of Art Barcade East Side to the global streets Alder the rarefied museums of the11.

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4. The Surrey (40.774452, -73.96396)

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16. The Whitney Museum of American Ar (40.773478, -73.963957)

HOteLs

restaurants

bars

GaLLerIes

01. the standard High Line 02. the Marlton 03. ace Hotel new York 04. the surrey

05. Pok Pok ny 06. sushi nakazawa 07. alder 08. betony

09. nitecap 10. the Dead rabbit 11. barcade 12. up & Down

13.the new Museum 14. MoMa 15. the Metropolitan Museum of art 16. the Whitney Museum Of american art

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mapped

HOteLs 01 The Standard High Line Straddling the High Line, the gleaming Standard is a Meatpacking District icon. Luxurious rooms with a view are complemented by the ground floor Standard Grill and the rooftop Le Bain, where the young and beautiful frolic in seasonal plunge pools. standardhotels.com/high-line 02 The Marlton A firm favourite among the city’s fashion set, The Marlton is often described as a pint-sized version of the Ritz. Rooms, with their crown moulding and gilded touches, do reference antique glamour, but blend in equal parts of chic, contemporary cool. marltonhotel.com 03 Ace Hotel New York Virtually synonymous with hip, the Ace Hotel has served as a destination for the young and plugged-in set since opening.

Rooms come equipped with guitars and turntables, while the cinematic lobby is permanently filled with the laptop-illuminated. acehotel.com/newyork 04 The Surrey Part luxury townhouse and part art museum, The Surrey’s collection contains masterpieces from the likes of Richard Serra and Chuck Close. After a browse, guests can wander through the hotel’s blackand-white-themed interior up to the 17th floor private roof garden. thesurrey.com

BIG APPLE / New York has one of the most familiar skylines in the world

restaurants 05 Pok Pok Ny Forget everything you thought you knew about Thai food: there’s no green curry to be found at Brooklyn’s Pok Pok Ny. In unfussy surroundings, this eternally popular spot serves chilli-laced, explosively flavoured, and richly authentic northern Thai cuisine. pokpokny.com 06

Sushi Nakazawa For those who watched the documentary Jiro Dreams Of Sushi and bemoaned the fact that they probably wouldn’t ever get to sample ‘authentic’ sushi, there’s an answer: Sushi Nakazawa.

01

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Opened by one of Jiro’s apprentices, it ranks among the best Japanese restaurants in the city. sushinakazawa.com 07 Alder Following news that molecular gastronomy whiz Wylie Dufresne is closing the iconic wd~50, Alder, his newer eatery, is sure to attract even bigger crowds. Here, the culinary pyrotechnics are toned down a touch as Dufresne hones in on creative gastropub fare. aldernyc.com 08 Betony A modern American restaurant opened by veterans of Eleven Madison Park, Betony serves a carnival of small dishes packed with seasonal flavours: summer squash pairs with lemon verbena and goat’s milk, while butterscotch marries Islay scotch and hazelnut for dessert. betony-nyc.com

08

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mapped

GaLLErIEs 13 The New Museum Designed to resemble a stack of boxes from the outside, The New Museum is the only Manhattan museum dedicated strictly to contemporary art. Temporary exhibitions feature the work of artists from around the world and frequently involve participatory elements. newmuseum.org

09 Nitecap It might occupy a dimly lit basement space in the Lower East Side, but Nitecap is no speakeasy.

Instead, this cocktail bar, beloved by industry types, lightens its ambiance with warm service and drinks that are creative but thoroughly unpretentious. nitecapnyc.com 10 The Dead Rabbit The Dead Rabbit has racked up awards with its 1850s Gangs Of New York atmosphere and drinks menu that cherry-picks the best recipes from bygone eras. From possets to punches, it demands an attentive read-through pre-sipping. deadrabbitnyc.com 11 Barcade Originally opened in Brooklyn, Barcade’s recipe of vintage arcade games and local craft beer made it a favourite. Now, its expansive new Chelsea location caters to Manhattanites craving a refreshing pint (and the chance to beat the high scores). barcade.com

12 Up & Down The celebrity-packed Up & Down serves two different nightlife sets: its upper floor, styled like an Italian villa, offers up drinks alongside a quieter ambiance, while the DJ-spun space downstairs is for those who want to let loose. uadnyc.com

14 MoMA MoMA (The Museum of Modern Art) is the place to see some of the 20th century’s biggest masterpieces: from Picasso’s Demoiselles d’Avignon to Van Gogh’s Starry Night, it provides the rare opportunity to discover these treasures in person. moma.org 15 The Metropolitan Museum Of Art The Metropolitan Museum Of Art is the quintessential New York museum: a neoclassical grande dame on the edge of Central Park that would take days to explore in full. The Temple Of Dendur, a reconstructed Egyptian temple, is a good starting point. metmuseum.org 16 The Whitney Museum Of American Art Dedicated to American artists, the Whitney’s collection consists primarily of 20th century and contemporary work. Alongside exhibitions that showcase the likes of Jeff Koons and Edward Hopper, it also hosts the Whitney Biennial, one of New York’s biggest annual art events. whitney.org

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Words:hG2.com imaGes: corbis

bars

CUlTURAl DiveRsiTy / New York comprises both the brownstones of brooklyn (foreground) and the highrises of lower manhattan (background)

FEEL LIKE A STAR Taste of Fame a family friendly concept that aims to give diners a genuine star-studded experience thanks to the silicon made celebrity figures and sculptures superheroes we grew up with, coupled with delicious Italian – Asian Infused cuisines in an interactive movie themed environment at a reasonable price.

For reservations, please call 04 – 33 88 552 E-mail: reservations@thetasteoffame.com Taste of Fame Restaurant is located on Sunset Mall, Jumeirah 3, Dubai

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

Raw Coffee Company

New Zealanders Kim Thompson and Matt Toogood run a coffee roaster in the industrial area of Al Quoz in Dubai with a commitment to ethical business practices and the city’s emerging independent food and drink community

F

or a coffee lover, savouring the flavours of a fresh cortado, brewed by a national champion and world finalist barista in the back streets of Dubai’s unofficial

Words and images by Sandra Tinari

art district, is an unexpected experience to be relished.

Hidden among Al Quoz’s industrial warehouses, in a quiet, dusty lane, local connoisseurs of a ‘cup of Joe’ have discovered the Raw Coffee Company, a

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homegrown coffee roaster that is at the heart of Dubai’s burgeoning grassroots food and drink scene.

Kim Thompson and Matt Toogood of Dubai’s Raw Coffee Company truly are aficionados of all things coffee bean, our discussion

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

premium roast / Raw Coffee Company roast 10 tonnes of beans a month, and its Al Quoz roasting room is where the magic happens

travels the gamut of acidity, water pressure, temperature and origin with fascinating ease.

The Kiwis, who combined have called Dubai home for almost 25 years, have a team that has held the prestigious title of national barista champion three times, an event organised by the national body, UAE Coffee Events. However, with

a roasting warehouse and tasting room packed to the rafters with bags of fresh green coffee beans, it’s clear where their talents lie.

“The roasting room is the heart and soul of our business, and our coffee is of the highest quality, 100 per cent organic and Fair Trade,” Kim states proudly, as we wander past towering walls of hessian

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bags, the aroma of fresh brew still heavy in the air.

The duo’s artisanal coffee can be found in many of the city’s most popular independent cafés, while the Raw Coffee Company also counts the world’s fussiest coffee drinkers among its expatriate retail customer base – think antipodeans, Italians, Portuguese and French.

EXPANDING HORIZONS by reaching new frontiers

AQABA

THE MIDDLE EAST INVESTMENT HUB ON THE RED SEA

In year 2001, the ASEZ was inaugurated. A liberalized, low tax, duty free and multi-sector development zone as part of Jordan's assertive reform strategy to provide investors, from all over the world, with an attractive business environment. Strategically located on the cross roads between three continents and four countries, ASEZ covers an area of 375 Km2 encompassing the total Jordanian coastline (27 km), the sea-ports of Jordan, an international airport operating under an Open Skies airport policy and the historical city of Aqaba.

The Aqaba Special Economic Zone Authority (ASEZA) is the financially and administratively autonomous institution responsible for the management, regulation, and the development of the Aqaba Special Economic Zone (ASEZ). Six ministerial – level commissioners, each responsible for a major area of regulatory or operational activity, govern the ASEZ. ASEZA is a service – oriented organization offering one – stop assistance covering all investment needs.

Tel: +962 3 2091000 Fax: +962 3 203 0912 Email: info@aseza.jo

www.aqabazone.com

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE “Our customers understand coffee, we have all nationalities stopping in regularly to try our latest origins or blends, from Emiratis and Indians to western expats,” Kim says.

“They’ve travelled and experienced different things, so they know the difference between a good quality cup of coffee and a bad cup of coffee. What they all have in common is that they have supported local roasters previously.”

With a commitment to roasting only quality Arabica coffee, using premium roasters imported from Greece, Raw Coffee Company roasts 10 tonnes of beans each month, delivering weekly to its customers to ensure they have only the freshest coffee beans.

The business idea was born out of frustration at being unable to find a decent cup of coffee in Dubai, Kim recalls. “I liked coffee but just couldn’t find it here, I couldn’t even find a good supplier. I had a family

We have all nationalities stopping in regularly member back in New Zealand who had a roaster, and once you’ve had good coffee you just can’t go back.”

Kim and Matt have been sourcing from the same coffee farmers since launching Raw Coffee Company in 2007. As a Fair Trade buyer, with a strong ethical stance, Raw’s suppliers now include women’s collectives from both Ethiopia and Yemen.

Depending on the origin of the bean, Matt says each batch of coffee takes around 15 minutes to roast using the team’s handoperated artisanal roasters. With 18,000kg of green beans from 23 different origins just delivered from 16 countries, that’s many a minute spent in the confines

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of the roasting room preparing single origin coffee and blends that are suitable for a wide range of brewing styles.

“While the western-style café scene is definitely growing in the UAE, only 20 per cent of the coffee drunk here is espresso, 80 per cent is Turkish Arabic or cezve – there are four distinctively different ways of preparing the cezve using a small brass or copper pot placed on hot sand, coals or gas burner,” says Matt, who recently travelled to Italy to compete in the barista World Cezve/Ibrik Championships, placing third in the competition.

“Speciality Turkish coffee preparation is very trendy now in the rest of the world, so we can expect this trend to continue to emerge in the Middle East and coffee people / Raw Coffee Company’s Kim Thompson and Matt Toogood say that once you’ve had good coffee you can’t go back

LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

world class / Raw Coffee Company believes that the difference between a good and a bad cup of coffee is the barista

Eastern Europe. It will be the next big thing in coffee – we have seen this trend begin here with espressobased drinks, the ‘third wave’ of coffee, and now we’re seeing it with Turkish coffee, where it is brewed in a modern way. We call it ‘Coming Home’, new coffee meets the traditional way.”

This ‘third-wave’ Turkish coffee movement has its roots in Istanbul, where a small collective of roasters and coffee drinkers sought to follow on from the ‘third wave’ of specialty espresso. Among the ‘third wave’ proponents, coffee is valued more as an artisanal drink, made from single-origin higher quality coffee beans that are hand-roasted in individual batches and freshly ground.

It is this determination to celebrate artisanal produce and

products that is now at the heart of Dubai’s independent food and drink community. “We come from a place where even though we lived in large cities, it had that village mentality, where the local butcher, coffee shop and food market knows your name. That cottage industry feel and concept is really starting to grow in Dubai,” Matt says. “We are part of the Dubai community and when it comes to our customers, we know each other’s names and we treat each other well.”

With this community mindset, Raw Coffee Company is also working with other coffee roasters, suppliers and cafés in the Emirate to elevate the role of baristas to that of mixologists or

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chefs, through the development of a recognised training scheme.

The team argues that the parallels between the intricacies of understanding coffee and wine are identical. “There are so many more owner-operated small businesses here that are helping to create change. We recognise that the more baristas, who we help to educate and gain qualifications here, will not only help the individuals but our business and the industry as a whole,” Matt says.

Kim agrees. “The difference between a good cup of coffee and a bad cup of coffee is not the price but the experience of the barista… and the quality of the original product,” she says. “Interestingly, despite this investment in the product, and in acquiring experience and knowledge, our customers sell our organic coffee cheaper than the big chains do.” rawcoffeecompany.com

Summer fun is beaming bright in Qatar!

Make the most of it by delving into retail therapy at bustling malls packed with fantastic bargains and prizes, enjoy entertaining kids' playgrounds overowing with fun-ďŹ lled choices, and end your day savoring award-winning multicultural cuisine.

Create new family memories beyond expectation- all in Qatar.

qatarsummerfestival.qa #QSF2014

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The Architectural Capital of the United States Jay Merrick marvels at the architectural wonders of Chicago

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EVERYonE GoES HoME In oCToBER: Adrian Mourby explores Jack Kerouac’s hometown, Lowell

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THE ARCHITECTURAL CAPITAL OF THE UNITED STATES WRITER JAY MERRICK CELEBRATES CHICAGO’S ASTOUNDING ARCHITECTURE

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ICONIC BUILDING / The John Hancock Center, completed in 1968, is Chicago’s most famous architectural landmark

hich city is the architectural capital of the United States? The obvious answer is New York. But the correct answer is Chicago. For it was here, on the edge of Lake Michigan, that the early spirit of American modern architecture took root in the most varied and original ways – not just in terms of tall buildings, but also in engineering advances, and in a dazzling array of housing designs. Manhattan may have the Empire State and Chrysler buildings in a uniquely dense thicket of skyscrapers, but Chicago is

where more than a century’s worth of can-do architectural innovation really jumps out at you.

Here’s a quick (and no doubt unfair) example: the Empire State is deservedly legendary, but its architecture is essentially unremarkable compared to, say, the exquisitely structured John Hancock Centre tower in Chicago. There isn’t, in my opinion, a skyscraper in New York or anywhere else in the world that has the sheer bravura presence of the Hancock, or the much taller Willis tower – both designed by Skidmore, Owings and Merrill.

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Even if you think laterally, rather than hyper-vertically, it was Chicago that set the standard. There’s been a lot of talk recently about the design of massive “groundscrapers” as an alternative to skyscrapers, and Jean Nouvel’s so-called Stealth Building near St Paul’s Cathedral in London is an obvious example. Its low-slung form contains 560,000 square feet of floor space. No, but seriously, you want groundscrapers? How about the 1930 Merchandise Mart building in Chicago: with four million square feet of floor space over 18 floors – still the biggest building in the world apart from the Pentagon and the New Century Global Centre in Chengdu, China.

If you take a stroll northwards from the Chicago River inlet, along the so-called Magnificent Mile of Michigan Avenue, you will begin to get an idea of the city’s architectural riches. At the southern end, you’ll encounter the buttressed, neo-gothic Chicago Tribune tower, dating from 1925. By the time you gaze up at the 1968 Hancock building, 20 minutes later, you will have seen two perfectly contrasting examples of superb vertical architecture – one marking the end-point of tall buildings with extravagant “historical”

features, the other, a 100-storey building completed in 1968 that’s taller than London’s Shard; and, incidentally, the beautiful criss-crosses of the Hancock’s diagrid exoskeleton predated the diagrid of London’s Swiss Re tower by 36 years.

Chicago’s ability to lead the way architecturally was hard-wired into the city’s collective mindset in the late 19th century. It was a remarkably rich and bustling place because by then it had become America’s shipment and warehousing hub: endless cargoes of grain, livestock and other products funnelled into the rail yards, before being freighted onwards to other parts of the country; and between 1870 and 1900 Chicago’s population exploded, rising from 299,000 to nearly 1.7 million, a rate of growth matched only by some Chinese cities in the 21st century.

ChiCago’s ability to lead the way arChiteCturally was hard-wired into the City’s ColleCtive mindset in the late 19th Century

ARCHITECTURE SCHOOL / Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s Crown Hall building houses Chicago’s College Of Architecture

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ChiCago not only set the bar for tall buildings, but also led the way in design of steel and glass buildings and house design

You can feel something of the city’s unique character in the staccato toughness of these opening lines from Chicago, the famous 1914 poem by Carl Sandburg: HOG Butcher for the World, Tool Maker, Stacker of Wheat, Player with Railroads and the Nation’s Freight Handler; Stormy, husky, brawling, City of the Big Shoulders . . .

And Chicago remains a city that, in the words of the once-resident actor John Malkovich, is not interested in what you say you can do, but only in what you actually can do. This outlook has always applied to the city’s architecture as the city grew exponentially after the Great Fire of 1871.

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It was in Chicago, built mostly on deep beds of clay, that steel “grillage” foundations – the precursor to reinforced concrete foundations – were pioneered; the Rookery building, still standing in LaSalle Street, was built on a bolted mesh of railway tracks.

Decades earlier, in 1856, Chicago’s can-do ethic had already – and quite literally – reached a new level.

To combat regular floods, whole chunks of the city’s built fabric were jacked up by more than a metre.

The British historian Paul Johnson relishes one particular example: the five-storey Briggs Hotel, weighing 22,000 tonnes, was lifted and safely propped… while it continued to operate.

This quest for originality began in the 1880s with the architecture of designers such as John Wellborn Root, Daniel Burnham and William Le Baron Jen-

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ney, who designed and delivered the first steel framed buildings. Le Baron Jenney’s design of the Home Insurance Building, rising to a then outrageous ten storeys, was one of the first that set out to make a grandiose virtue of height.

But that was nothing compared to the 1892 Masonic Temple, the first 21-storey building in the world.

And Burnham and Root’s 16-storey Monadnock North building, completed in the same year, remains the world’s tallest brick-structured building, with walls six feet thick at its base. Even its aluminium-fili-

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NEW BUILD / Rem Koolhass’ McCormick Tribune Campus Center was built in 2003, near Mies van der Rohe’s Crown Hall building tWIN toWErs / Bertram Goldberg’s 65-storey Marina City twin towers, built in 1964

WRIGHT STUFF / The Robie House (below) is the most famous of legendary architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s Prairie Houses modeRnIST maSTeR / Mies van der Rohe’s Farnsworth House (right) is a modernist masterpiece

greed staircases were unique – the first time that this metal had been used in a building. To reach out and touch the obdurate purple-brown bricks of the Monadnock today is make direct contact with the fearless, non-nonsense 19th century soul of the city’s architecture.

The most articulate of Chicago’s original architectural seers was Louis Sullivan. And it was he who effectively brand-marked what became known as the Chicago school of architecture, ensuring that while New York became known for the remarkable quantity of its tall buildings, Chicago remained the benchmark for design originality.

Chicago’s late-19th century commercial buildings marked a turning point in architectural history, and their design break-

throughs depended as much on engineering skill as pure architectural design – a mixture that has continued to characterise the best Chicago buildings.

The most internationally influential 20th century example features the pairing of the architect Bruce Graham and the engineer Fazlur Khan, who produced the Hancock tower. Khan’s tube-frame innovation has, since then, become a standard structural system for the tallest contemporary skyscrapers – the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur, for example.

Chicago not only set the bar for tall buildings, but also led the way in design of steel and glass buildings and house design. The latter featured the work of America’s greatest 20th century architect Frank Lloyd Wright, who worked for Louis Sullivan at the beginning of his subsequently fabulous career. Wright, who had no architectural qualifications, designed his own studio and home in 1898 – the first of many houses that he produced in the still salubrious suburban enclave of Oak Park; the novelist Ernest Hemingway grew up in the same neighbourhood during the time Wright was designing houses there.

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Wright’s Oak Park buildings marked the beginning of a series of highly original designs that became known, collectively as the Prairie Houses. Any visitor to Chicago with even the faintest interest in architecture simply has to visit the 1910 Robie House, probably the most iconic of this extraordinary collection, which typically feature very shallow roof pitches reminiscent of classical Japanese architecture, squat chimneys, multiple terraces, open plan interiors and exquisitely made furniture designed by Wright.

Wright’s innovations in domestic architecture were matched, in a precisely opposite way, half a century later by one of the greatest examples of ultra-pared down modernist architecture. Mies van der Rohe’s Farnsworth House, in the suburb of Plano, a few miles west of the centre of Chicago, is composed of steel-framed roof and floor slabs, steel pillars and glass – a see-through house raised on steel stilts.

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Wright’s Oak Park buildings marked the beginning Of a series Of highly Original designs that became knOWn cOllectively as the Prairie hOuses

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solid favourite / John Wellborn Root, and Daniel Burnham’s Monadnock North building (right), built in the 1890s, is still the world’s tallest brickstructured building star attraction / Jay Pritzker pavilion in Grant Park, designed by superstar architect Frank Gehry

Van der Rohe, a German émigré and one of modern architecture’s seminal geniuses, also ensured that Chicago led the way in the design of other kinds of building. His 52-storey 330 North Wabash building, completed in 1973, is a key example of glass-and-steel office buildings – though it must be admitted that his smaller 1958 Seagram building in Manhattan was the original for this architectural style. But the structure that absolutely epitomises van der Rohe’s famous “less-is-more” dictum is in Chicago: the Crown Hall building, which houses the College of Architecture, is a perfectly refined essay in steel, glass and columnfree internal space.

Such is Crown Hall’s importance in the architectural canon that even the most provocative of 21st century architects, Rem Koolhass, did not dare to upstage van der Rohe’s building when he designed the nearby McCormick Tribune Campus Center in 2003. The superstar architect Frank Gehry had no such precedents to restrain him when he designed the highly extravert 2004 Jay Pritzker pavilion in Grant Park.

Nor did Bertram Goldberg have to hold back when he designed the 65-storey Marina City twin towers in 1964, which look like vast concrete corncobs. And in 2010, the Chicago architect Jeanne Gang delivered the

Aqua Tower, whose extraordinary rippling facades are yet another world architectural first for the city.

So much to see, so little time? Not at all. Chicago, the can-do city, is ready to show you its architectural greatness. The guided tours run by the Frank Lloyd Wright Trust are excellent, as are the various architectural boat tours that pass through the centre of the city on the Chicago River. Prepare to be amazed.

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ADriAn Mourby visits LoweLL, MAssAchusetts, the birthpLAce of one of AMericA’s Most fAMous 20th century writers, JAck kerouAc – AnD the town the Author once DescribeD As “the Most interesting pLAce in the uniteD stAtes” Words: Adrian Mourby Images: Jarrod McCabe

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awn comes quietly to Lowell, illuminating the huge rooftop sign over the Lowell Sun building. Jack Kerouac, the author who gave voice to America’s mid-20th century Beat Generation, worked here 75 years ago. Today it stands huge and empty.

First light also picks out the large clock hanging outside Lowell High School. For four years Jack was a student in this yellow brick, Art Deco educational palace. He used to smoke and meet girls beneath its “boxlike clock”.

Dawn also casts angular shadows as it strikes the struts of the red metal bridge linking the centre of Lowell with Jack’s French-speaking suburb of Pawtucketville on the other side of the Merrimack River.

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Dawn these days is particularly quiet in Lowell because few cars disturb the peace of the sleeping industrial giant that was Jack Kerouac’s hometown. Even when Jack was a boy, Lowell was in decline. By the 1950s, when he headed out “on the road”, the city was so poor it couldn’t afford to demolish its old buildings. But this has made Lowell special today. It doesn’t look like all the other cookie-cutter American cities with an Athenian-style city hall and identikit shopping malls. The nearest Starbucks and Dunkin’ Donuts are a mile out of town.

Lowell is different. For its most famous son, the man who criss-crossed America in the 1950s questing for something always beyond the horizon, Lowell remained the most inter-

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ney, after a cup of coffee on Market Street.

The Jack Kerouac Commemorative stands on the site of a demolished warehouse, opposite a row of redbrick terraced houses built for Lowell’s millworkers. It’s early morning and the sunbeams piercing the narrow streets of Lowell are bouncing light off the pink granite columns erected in Jack’s honour. Roger Brunelle, a sprightly octogenarian from the same French Canadian Lowell background as Jack himself, joins me, pointing out one of the four triangular columns that gives Jack’s name and dates and nothing more.

“When Ben Woitena designed this park there was a picture of Jack underneath those dates,” says Roger. “But Stella [Jack’s wife] said “That’s not my Jack” so they erased it. Stella was his third wife and I think it works better with just his name.”

Roger was a Latin teacher in Lowell, and 10 years younger than his hero. Jack had left Lowell and headed out on the road by the time Roger might have made his acquaintance, but Roger has talked to just about everyone who did know Jack. Most of them are dead now, but Roger Brunelle has everything in his mind and on file cards that he keeps in the pocket of his jeans. Distinctively-dressed in a black T shirt with its Latin logo telling us that we have nothing to fear but fear itself, Roger is regularly sought out by people who come to Lowell in search of Kerouac.

“You know, Jack only spoke French at home. Like my family. There was a very big Quebequois community here in Lowell. Industry made this an immigrant town. We had

esting place he knew. The author of On The Road set many of his early novels in this Massachusetts industrial town just as it breathed its last gasp. To Kerouac, Lowell was a “whole intact Shakespearean universe in itself”.

Jean-Louis Kérouac (known as Ti’Jean by his family) was born and raised here and, when he could, he came back to Lowell every October. “Everyone goes home in October,” he wrote in On The Road. Eventually he came back to live out his last years here, drinking noisily in Nicky’s Bar, and marrying the owner’s sister. He died in Florida aged only 47, but he was buried in Lowell.

Nineteen years later, in 1988, this citytown decided to erect a memorial to its most famous son. And that’s where I start my jour-

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river crossing / The bridge over the Merrimack River connects Lowell to Jack’s birthplace, the Frenchspeaking suburb of Pawtucketville first job / After graduating from Lowell High School, Jack briefly worked at the Lowell Sun, shown here behind several of Lowell’s distinctive red brick buildings

STUDY SESSION / Pollard Memorial Library provided all of young Jack’s reading material

Poles and Greeks and Irish and Lithuanians.

And the Irish were paid 50 cents for every Canadian they brought down here. And Jack’s father moved here to produce a French-language newspaper for them.”

I’ve already seen where Jack was born over in Pawtucketville, a simple wooden house with verandas top and bottom and two front doors side by side, one for the family who lived downstairs and one for the family upstairs. Jack’s parents started off down below, but he was born after they moved up. According to Roger, upstairs was always considered better as heat rises and in New England’s winters you needed all the heat you could get.

I also saw Jack’s elementary school, Ecole de St Louis, where he skipped a grade because he was so bright. “And yet with all the teachers and nuns I spoke to, everyone could remember the name but not the face. Jack was a wall flower,” Roger informs me. “He was very bright but he was shy, and I think he found life a sad business. And of course he was religious, not in the Catholic sense of his upbringing, but in a questing sense. That’s why you’ll see this park is laid out like a mandala with the four pillars forming a cross.”

Roger tends to blur the edges between his life and Jack’s, but the two men do have a lot in common. Lowell called them both back. Roger would have liked to have lived in Paris, but he’s become a Lowell fixture, just like Jack. “My duty on earth,” says Roger, looking at his cards.

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“That’s what Jack called his writing. And he called Lowell, ‘My Lowell’, too”.

After my meeting with Roger, I take some time off on my own. There is no official Jack Kerouac route through Lowell, but a map from the National Park Center shows you the major sites associated with the man who reinvented America with his words.

Yet Lowell had a history before Jack Kerouac wrote On The Road. Charles Dickens came to Lowell in 1842 and commended its cotton factories for creating enlightened housing for their workers. The painter James Abbott McNeill Whistler was born here in 1834 (his home is now an art gallery). The first Unionist soldiers killed in the Civil War were from Lowell, as was the movie star Bette Davis. Lowell was a cotton town, and hugely important in the Massachusetts economy until America’s Depression ripped its industrial heart out.

In a radio interview, in 1962, Kerouac said that Lowell was the most interesting place in the United States. As I pass the Lowell 5 Cent Saving Bank and St Joseph The Worker Shrine, I wonder how serious he was.

lowell had a history before jack kerouac wrote on the road

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According to Paul Marion, who edited Kerouac’s early work and teaches at the University Of Massachusetts Lowell, the remark was made “not without some humour”. I had spoken to Paul on the telephone when planning my visit. “But in all seriousness I believe Kerouac saw in Lowell the universal human condition, and he translated that into his stories about growing up in Lowell. Jack saw the entire social pageant, high and low, in the daily drama of Lowell, and through the power of his fiction he made Lowell a place that stood for one aspect of the American experience, that urban, multi-ethnic, working-class-with-aspirationstype community that was familiar to so many people in the middle of the 20th century.”

Reaching Jack’s old school, which must have seemed huge in the 1930s when he attended, I see the four-faced clock prominently displayed over the entrance. It’s a very long building indeed. “Inconceivably lost, the corridors of that long school,” Jack wrote. “I played hooky two times a week on average.”

Across the Merrimack Canal I come to the New City Hall and the Pollard Memorial Library, where Jack determined to read every book in stock. “Some old bums gathering, smoking butts at the door... waiting for nine o’clock opening time,” he recalled. Stella Cunha from the tourist board, who meets me here, admits that despite Jack’s fame, Lowell developed a bad reputation in the second half of the 20th century.

“Lowell certainly went through some bad times after its industry collapsed. We had 40 per cent unemployment, the highest in the USA , and a reputation for drugs and violence.

And soldiers from Fort Devens would come to town looking for prostitutes. I remember saying to someone that I was born in Lowell and he said, ‘Why would you tell people you came from Lowell?’ It was that bad.”

But this library would inspire a young man with literary aspirations. Two sets of doubledoors open on to a wood-panelled reading room with chandeliers. “I saw that my life was a vast glowing empty page,” he recorded “And I could do anything I wanted.”

From here I can now head west to St Jean Baptsite Church, for Jack always “the ponderous chartreuse cathedral of the slums”, but instead I track back south across the railway lines to the site of the YMCA – now demolished.

When he should have been in school, Jack divided his time between the Memorial Library and the YMCA.

jack saw the entire social pageant, high and low, in the daily drama of lowell “He was unusual for his broad interests,” Paul Marion had told me. “He was the intellectual-athlete, who could shift from grinding runs as a halfback on the football field to reading the poems of Walt Whitman. He was always a voracious reader of all things, from newspaper sports stories and serialised magazines for young readers to the books in the Lowell public library.”

Despite his absences from school – more than 40 days in his final year – Jack graduated with honours. He worked briefly for the Lowell Sun, served an equally brief period in the merchant marine during the Second World War and then headed to New York and literary fame.

“What’s clear is that he had a dream of being a writer from an early age,” says Paul Marion. “Most people who knew him growing up or even later described him as a naturally shy person, but one who was always on, observing and soaking in everything around him.”

early years / Jack skipped a grade at his elementary school, Ecole de St Louis

childhood home / Jack’s family lived on the lower floor of this wooden house before he was born, by which time they had moved upstairs

According to another Roger, Roger Ouellette, who was a childhood friend of Jack’s older brother, Gerard, both Kerouac boys were natural dramatists. “I was told to not return to play with Gerard, because it offended his younger brother, Jean-Louis, who was jealous of me,” he says.

“Gerard was a brilliant little boy who was a great storyteller: that’s where Jack got it...”

The sun is higher in the sky now as I retrace my steps past Lowell High School to the Patrick J Mogan Cultural Center, where the typewriter on which Jack pounded out On The Road in 1951 is displayed among a few other artefacts.

It’s a classic black skeletal Underwood with the keys like little white dishes, although I notice the ‘h’ and ‘j’ are badly discoloured.

Jack left a lot to Lowell, including an archive of his own papers that Paul Marion is

He kept coming back to LoweLL Looking for sometHing, trying to find Home again still working through. Despite his celebrity and restlessness he was repeatedly drawn back to this empty city with its huge red brick mills.

George Apostolos, a best friend whom Kerouac fictionalised as GJ, told Roger Brunelle that Jack found those initial return trips disappointing.

“He kept coming back to Lowell looking for something, trying to find home again. The last time he came to Lowell in 1954 he wanted to be a big kid again and play with the boys for a few days. But the others had grown up, had responsibilities, and Kerouac went away disappointed.”

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Chicki Dagoumas, another Greek friend, recalled Jack in later years, after he’d married and moved back to Lowell, drinking heavily at the Sack Club on Market Street. Jack also drank at Nicky’s strip joint on Gorham Street, and it was the owner’s sister, Stella Sampas, who became his third wife. Nicky’s is now Ricardo’s Cafe Trattoria and, by the looks of it, a much more salubrious place these days.

From here I want to head to the Kerouac grave, but first I walk to “Funeral Row”, Jack’s nickname for the Pawtucket Street on which stand four funeral homes, three Irish and one French, Archambault & Sons, which would go on to be the site of Kerouac’s wake in 1969. He died aged only 47 as a result of long-term alcohol abuse.

Nearby stands the Lourdes replica grotto built by monks from Canada. This is the shrine Jack described as offering “nothing in praise of life”. In fact it’s worse, flanked by grisly Stages of the Cross.

By early afternoon I make it to Edson Cemetery and the simple stone that records Ti’Jean’s dates and adds the epitaph “He Honored Life”.

And there is Roger Brunelle again, with an American couple who’ve brought a young guest from Scotland to see the grave. He’s explaining that Jack was not buried in the Catholic Cemetery across town because Stella’s family already owned a plot here. In fact she was buried with him here in 1990. I wait while Roger reads out some lines from one of his file cards.

As our little vigil ends Roger catches up with me. ”You know people say this isn’t Jack’s town anymore. But that’s not so,” he insists.

“You could drop two bombs here and there’d still be enough left of Lowell to find Jack.”

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New Emirates Lounge At Glasgow Airport Emirates' new lounge has opened in time for the Commonwealth Games

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briefing New A380 DestiNAtioNs: New services to Dallas/Fort Worth, Frankfurt, San Francisco and Houston CitY GUiDe: Our guide to Emirates' latest US route, Chicago RoUtemAp: Discover the world as connected by Emirates

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New emirates LouNge at gLasgow airport emirates is ceLebratiNg the start of the commoNweaLth games with the officiaL opeNiNg of its first LouNge at gLasgow airport, unveiled by the airline’s

president, Sir Tim Clark.

The airline is the first nondomestic carrier to open a worldclass lounge at the airport and it comes as the airline marks its tenth year of service to the Scottish city.

Sir Tim Clark, president Emirates Airline commented: “Our new Emirates Lounge at Glasgow is the largest at the airport and represents a significant Euro 2.6 million direct investment. Its opening celebrates our decade long operations and our close ties with Scotland. Our passenger numbers have grown as we progressively

developed our services into Glasgow. The lounge opening today is a testament to the success of our double daily operation.

The lounge will be an unrivalled premium experience for our customers travelling to popular destinations including Bangkok, Perth, Sydney and Singapore, via our hub in Dubai.”

The lounge, which has generated significantly increased business with local suppliers and showcases premium Scottish products, highlights Emirates’ growing commitment to Scotland and its role as a vital passenger and cargo market.

With a 65 per cent market share of Scotland’s air transport export market, the carrier is

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enabling the growth of Scottish business by linking the country with key export markets for commodities such as seafood and whisky.

Expected to welcome approximately 100 premium passengers travelling on Emirates’ twice-daily services to Dubai, the lounge’s facilities include formal and relaxed seating areas, a dining area, shower facilities and a business centre.

Emirates First Class and Business Class passengers, as well as Emirates Skywards Platinum and Gold members, can access the lounge where they can enjoy an extensive open buffet of gourmet dishes as well as a complimentary full-bar service.

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news UNIQUE FOOTBALL SHIRTS AT EMIRATES’ OFFIcIAL STORE EMIRATES' OFFIcIAL STORE IN DUBAI MALL is

offering shirt printing in the official fonts of four of the five European football teams that the airline sponsors.

While some retailers offer the English Premier League fonts, none have the fonts that are unique to Real Madrid, PSG or AC Milan under one shop roof.

Located in The Village, Dubai Mall and in the vicinity of the Emirates A380 Experience simulator, the store boasts a wide range of Real Madrid, Arsenal, PSG and AC Milan shirts.

The European champions, Real Madrid, have revealed a striking pink away shirt this season, while Arsenal are wearing Puma-branded kit for the first time ready for the 2014/15 Premier League season.

The shop also stocks plenty of non-football related Emirates-branded merchandise, from model aircraft to caps, key-chains, luggage and leather wallets.

NEW A380 DESTINATIONS EMIRATES LAUNcHED ITS AIRBUS A380 TO DALLAS/FORT WORTH INTERNATIONAL AIRpORT (DFW) ON 1ST OcTOBER, cOMMENcINg A DAILy SERvIcE FROM DUBAI.

Hubert Frach, Emirates divisional senior vice president, commercial operations west, said Emirates is “committed to the people and places we serve, and we are bringing our flagship A380 to Dallas/Fort Worth by popular demand”.

“The DFW area is at the heart of business, being home to 18 Fortune 500 companies. It is also

home to a diverse population and the largest urban arts district in the U.S, and is the established number one leisure destination in Texas,” he added.

Emirates started flying to Dallas/Fort Worth in 2012, the first passenger carrier to fly non-stop to the Middle East from DFW. The introduction of the 489-seat A380 is a direct response to demand with more than 370,000 Emirates passengers travelling between Dallas and Dubai to date.

DFW Airport constructed a second level jet bridge in Terminal

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D and modifications to the airfield, ramps and taxiways to accommodate the A380 aircraft.

The Emirates A380 service will operate daily as EK222, departing Dallas/Fort Worth at 12.35pm and arriving in Dubai at 12.20pm the following day.

EK 221 departs Dubai at 2.45am and arrives at Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport at 9.45am the same day.

Frankfurt’s A380 service is set to commence on 1st September, with San Francisco on 1st December and Houston on 3rd December.

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news RogeR Dubuis anD emiRates launch ‘time foR change’ chaRity initiative fine watchmakeR RogeR Dubuis has teameD up with the emiRates aiRline founDation to

launch a charity initiative aimed at enhancing the lives of children around the world.

The Time For Change initiative will raise funds for the Emirates Airline Foundation through a silent auction of a unique piece: the Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon. The watch, designed exclusively for the partnership, is Roger Dubuis’ most iconic creation and a true collector’s item.

The winning bidder will be invited for a VIP visit to Roger Dubuis Manufacture in Geneva, Switzerland and will meet the master watchmaker who crafted the timepiece.

“We are extremely proud to join hands with Emirates to make a difference in the lives of children and enable them to live brighter, happier lives,” said Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO of Roger Dubuis.

“The Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon is among our finest creations and we hope to be able to raise the maximum amount for the Foundation.”

The Time For Change auction will run from 15th August 2014 to 15th March 2015 and you can find details of the silent auction in Emirates Duty Free Collection magazine on board your Emirates flight.

Ask a member of your cabin crew for a bid form. You can

Get to your gate on time Don't miss your flight Please make sure you get to your boarding gate on time.

Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.

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also submit your bid at the Roger Dubuis Boutique at The Boulevard, Emirates Towers in Dubai.

The Emirates Airline Foundation is a non-profit charity dedicated to enhancing the quality of life for children in need across the world.

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news A GREENER TOMORROW WINNERS ANNOUNCED EMIRATES hAS ANNOUNCED ThE RECIpIENTS Of ITS A GREENER TOMORROW INITIATIvE, which

provides funding for not-for-profit environmental organisations in developing countries.

Globally, more than 400 organisations were nominated for the initiative by passengers, Emirates’ social media network, universities, environmental and conservation organisations and the general public.

The applications were of such a high standard that Emirates awarded the funding to three separate projects.

The winners were Ripple Africa, a fuel-efficient cooking project in Malawi; Heritage Foundation – Moak Sharif EcoVillage, Pakistan, which promotes eco-villages and sustainable farming practices; and Institute for Climate and Sustainable Cities (iCSC) – E-jeepneys, in the Philippines, which converts Manila’s iconic ‘jeepneys’ into battery-operated versions, thereby reducing emissions in the city.

Will Löfberg, Emirates’ vice president, international, government and environment affairs, said the group was “acutely aware of the

everyday challenges faced by many communities around the world”.

“A Greener Tomorrow aims to assist some of those communities in the places we serve, to improve their environmental conditions and livelihoods,” he added. “The three projects that we are supporting through A Greener Tomorrow embody attributes that resonate strongly with us at Emirates.”

A Greener Tomorrow, which is funded by revenues from a range of Emirates Group recycling programmes, is the latest step in Emirates’ support for environmental initiatives.

EMIRATES fIRST AIRlINE TO pROvIDE AUDIO DESCRIpTIONS fOR INflIGhT ENTERTAINMENT EMIRATES hAS bECOME ThE fIRST AIRlINE TO INTRODUCE AUDIO DESCRIpTION SOUNDTRACkS fOR vISUAlly IMpAIRED CUSTOMERS ON ITS INflIGhT ENTERTAINMENT SySTEM, ICE DIGITAl WIDESCREEN.

Emirates customers this August can listen to Audio Description soundtracks on 16 Disney titles including Frozen, Saving Mr Banks, Cars 2, Monsters University, The Avengers, Toy Story 3, Wreck-ItRalph and all four Pirates of the Caribbean movies. The descriptions are recorded narrations explaining the scene during the gaps in dialogue, while the film soundtrack continues at its normal pace.

Patrick Brannelly, Emirates

Vice President, Corporate Communications said, “Making entertainment accessible to all our customers is very important to us; that was our motivation to offer movie content that could serve our customers with visual difficulties.

Our greatest satisfaction comes from delivering an exceptional customer experience, which we hope our constant innovation and creativity, fulfils. We are working with other content suppliers from Hollywoodf and around the world to widen the choice of Audio Descriptions on ice Digital Widescreen”.

In 2007, Emirates again worked with Disney to become the first

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airline in the world to introduce Closed Captions on its movies, the technology used by the hard of hearing which, as well as showing actors' dialogue in subtitles, also includes reference to sound effects used in the movie. This August, ice Digital Widescreen will offer over 50 movies with Closed Captions.

Emirates award-winning Inflight Entertainment system, ice Digital Widescreen, offers a staggering choice of more than 1,800 channels of entertainment, including movies from around the world, hundreds of hours of TV choices, 100 plus video games and thousands of hours of music from contemporary to classical.

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City Guide CHICAGO & BEYOND Chicago boasts some of America's greatest architecture, numerous cultural attractions and cutting edge cuisine. But there's also plenty to see in the areas surrounding ‘The Windy City’ everything the business traveller could possibly require.

Once you've had your fill of the vibrant city life, there are many more things to see and do in the surrounding areas.

MICHIGAN

HOME TO INCREDIBLE BUILDINGS SUCH AS THE WILLIS TOWER, FRANK GEHRY'S PRITzKER PAvILION AND FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT'S ROBIE HOUSE, Chicago

is perhaps best known for its spectacular Architecture, but the city has a lot more to offer.

Visitors can explore worldclass galleries and museums, including The Field Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art, before indulging in a slice of the city's celebrated deep dish pizza, or visiting one of its many celebrated contemporary restaurants.

Chicago is also a significant convention hub; home to many of the US’s largest companies, including Boeing, the city has

With more beaches than the Atlantic seaboard, half the state is also covered by forests. Surfers occupy the beaches while locals and visitors alike trek the impressive sand dunes. It’s not all nature, though. The Midwestern state is home to Detroit – a city that, despite its share of financial problems, continues to shine with a strong identity wrapped up in music, notably the Motown sound and artists from Bob Seger to Eminem.

WISCONSIN Wisconsin offers an unrivalled outdoor experience whether it’s hunting, fishing or camping. And with a plethora of artisan cheese makers, farmers markets and restaurants, there are numerous opportunities to sample the fresh produce of the region. The lakes

and surrounding countryside make Wisconsin ideal for families or romantic getaways.

INDIANA Relax into the gentle pace of Indiana where you can explore Amish country or take five on the beaches. That’s not to say it’s all rest and relaxation. When you need to get your pulse racing Indiana boasts amusement parks, nightlife and a love of all sports. Furthermore there are plenty of boutique shops to pick up gifts and mementos.

THE GREAT LAKES Visible from the moon, the Great Lakes – Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and Ontario – are the largest group of fresh water lakes on earth. Niagara River, which links lakes Erie and Ontario, features the world's most famous waterfall, Niagara Falls. There are tours and river cruises available, but fishing remains one of the most popular activities, with kayaking, diving and sailing also readily available.

Emirates EK 235 departs from Dubai International Airport at 9.45am arriving into Chicago at 3.25pm. The return flight, EK 236 will depart O’Hare at 8.35pm, arriving into Dubai at 7.10pm the next day

POPULATION: 2.7 million in the city and 9.5 including the wider area LANGUAGE: English CURRENCY: US dollar CLIMATE: Chicago experiences four distinct seasons, with hot and humid summers and cold, snowy winters.

FAMOUS RESIDENT: Bill Murray, the legendary comic actor, was born in Wilmette, Illinois, a northern suburb of Chicago.

DID YOU KNOW? Chicago River flows backwards, it's flow having been reversed in 1900 to ensure a clean supply of drinking water for the city and prevent waterborne diseases .

WHAT TO EAT: Chicago is famous for the deep-dish pizza, with its three inch tall side crust. Full of rich tomato sauce and piled high with toppings, it’s certainly worth checking out.

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Comfort

Wellness in the air

To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

smart traveller

Drink plentY of Water Rehydrate with water or juices frequently.

Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

travel lightlY Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Before Your JourneY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

Wear glasses Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

at the airport Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

use skin moisturiser Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

keep moving Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles.

This encourages blood flow.

During the flight Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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make Yourself comfortaBle Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

When You arrive Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

Your home in Dubai

• • • • • • • •

Located in the heart of Dubai Opposite Metro Station Walking distance to Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest skyscraper Dubai Airport - 15 min Abu Dhabi Airport - 45 min Walking distance to shopping malls Close to Business Hubs (DIFC and DWTC) Spa and Outdoor Swimming Pool

Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957 Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

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Visas & UaE smart GatE Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSTomS DEClArATIon Form

electronic system for travel authorisation (esta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

esta facts:

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only.

The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply online at www.cbp.Gov/esta nationalities eliGible for the visa waiver*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, latvia, liechtenstein, lithuania, luxemburg, malta, monaco, The netherlands, new Zealand, norway, Portugal, San marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* subject to chanGe ** only british citizens qualify under the visa waiver proGramme.

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BE SMART!

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International Airport by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can scan your UAE Emirates ID card.

If you have an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot

2 3

OK!

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and remain still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can proceed to baggage claim

UAE

ANDORRA

AUSTRALIA

AUSTRIA

BAHRAIN

BELGIUM

BRUNEI

CANADA

DENMARK

FINLAND

FRANCE

GERMANY

GREECE

ICELAND

IRELAND

ITALY

JAPAN

KUWAIT

LICHTENSTEIN

LUXEMBOURG

MALAYSIA

MONACO

NETHERLANDS

NEW ZEALAND

NORWAY

OMAN

PORTUGAL

QATAR

SAN MARINO

SAUDI ARABIA

SINGAPORE

SOUTH KOREA

SPAIN

SWEDEN

SWITZERLAND

*UK

USA

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an Immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed.

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UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

Machine readable passports from the above countries UAE Emirates ID cards E-Gate cards

ROUTE MAP

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NEW ROUTES:

Oslo: from September 2, 2014 Brussels: from September 5, 2014 Budapest: from October 27, 2014

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ROUTE MAP

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ROUTE MAP

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• • • • • • • •

Contract Drafting & Review Business Setup , Offshore & Free Zone Companies Corporate & Commercial Legal Services Litigation & Arbitration Debt Collection Banking, Insurance & Maritime Cases Real Estate, Construction & Labor Cases Trademarks, Patents & Copyrights

‫ﺻﻴﺎﻏﺔ ﺍﻟﻌﻘﻮﺩ ﻭﻣﺮﺍﺟﻌﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺗﺄﺳﻴﺲ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ ﻭﺍﻷﻭﻓﺸﻮﺭ ﻭﺍﳌﻨﺎﻃﻖ ﺍﳊﺮﺓ‬ ‫ﺍﳋﺪﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﻘﺎﻧﻮﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻸﻓﺮﺍﺩ ﻭﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺘﻘﺎﺿﻲ ﻭ ﺍﻟﺘﺤﻜﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﲢﺼﻴﻞ ﺍﻟﺪﻳﻮﻥ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﻨﻮﻙ ﻭﺍﻟﺘﺄﻣﲔ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﳌﻘﺎﻭﻻﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻌﻘﺎﺭﺍﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﻌﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﻌﻼﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﺘﺠﺎﺭﻳﺔ ﻭﺑﺮﺍﺀﺍﺕ ﺍﻻﺧﺘﺮﺍﻉ ﻭﺣﻘﻮﻕ ﺍﳌﺆﻟﻒ‬

• • • • • • • •

DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 contact@emiratesadvocates.com | www.emiratesadvocates.com ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446 auh@emiratesadvocates.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH Tel: +971 7 2046719 rak@emiratesadvocates.com

DUBAI INTERNET CITY Tel: +971 4 3900820 dic@emiratesadvocates.com

SHARJAH Tel: +971 6 5728666 shj@emiratesadvocates.com

JEBEL ALI Tel: +971 4 8871679 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com

DIFC Tel: +971 4 4019562 difc@emiratesadvocates.com

WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN

FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99

the FLeet

Our fleet contains 228 aircraft made up of 215 passenger aircraft and 13 cargo aircraft

Boeing 777-300eR

Number of Aircraft: 98 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-300

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777-200LR

Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-200

Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777F

Number of Aircraft: 11 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

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Airbus A380-800

Number of Aircraft: 52 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

Airbus A340-500

Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

Airbus A340-300

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

Airbus A330-200

Number of Aircraft: 21 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

boeing 747-400erF

Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers as of August 2014

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last look

New York Marvin GatlinG 69, Martial arts Grand Master (sensei), vietnaM CoMbat vet, HarleM

IMAGE: MELODIE JENG, THENYCSTREETS.COM

I have lived in New York for 69 years, besides my time in the military. I was born in Harlem Hospital and have lived in Harlem the entire time. New York is the Big Apple. It’s the best place on the planet. It’s so versatile. It’s the only place in the world where you can find people from every part of the planet. Other places, you can’t find people from all over the world. Today I am taking some pictures, waiting for some people to come by so I can give a martial arts demonstration.

I’m here seven days a week.

I’m in the community. I give back to the community.

The thing I love about Harlem is the people – all people.

There are so many places and things to see here. You have to be a Harlemite to realise what used to be here and what is here now, and the gentrification that is happening and has happened previously.

I would describe my style as unique. I’m a combat vet. I don’t wear civilian clothes anymore. This is all I wear.

Once a soldier, always a soldier.

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IT WAS THE SUMMER OF ‘69 !

On July 21st, 1969 at 02:56 UTC, Neil Armstrong stepped onto the lunar surface, followed minutes later by Buzz Aldrin. Their Apollo 11 mission was one of humankind’s defining achievements. We are as proud to have been part of it today as we were 45 years ago.

More information available at OMEGA Middle East, Emirates Towers, Dubai, UAE. Tel: +971 4 3300455

Speedmaster Moonwatch Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition Titanium, ceramic and 18K Sedna™ gold