Open Skies | April 2015

THE LAND DIVERS OF PENTECOST

,áeÉîØdG ¿ƒÑëj ¢†©ÑdG .É¡fƒ°û«©j ¿hôNB’Gh

áeÉîa ÌcC’G ¿óŸG ióMEG ∫ƒÑ棰SG »°VGQCG ≈∏Y äÉMÉ°ùŸG hP ∫ÒH »°S ´hô°ûe ™ØJôj ,⁄É©dG ‘ ôëÑdG √É«e ≈∏Y ¬≤≤°ûH π£j …òdG á©°SGƒdG á«æµ°ùdG .á©«aôdG äÉ«°üî°û∏d Gk õ«‡ AÉ≤àdG õcôe ôaƒjh áÄdCÓàŸG

Editor-in-ChiEf Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor EditoriaL dirECtor grouP Editor Editor dEsignEr sub Editor EditoriaL assistant

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson gina@motivate.ae Mark Evans marke@motivate.ae Gareth Rees gareth@motivate.ae Ralph Mancao ralph@motivate.ae Salil Kumar salil@motivate.ae Londresa Flores londresa@motivate.ae

Contributors

Andrew Birbeck, Geoff Brokate, Felix Busso, Gemma Correll, Ben East, Jamie Knights, Kaye Martindale, Gary Meenaghan, Joe Mortimer, Arnold Poeschl, Robbie Porter, Mike Priest, REM, Keiron Throssell, Sandra Tinari, Mari Luz Vidal, Lisa Wall digitaL dEvELoPMEnt ManagEr Helen Cotton helenc@motivate.ae sEnior digitaL dEsignEr Roui Francisco rom@motivate.ae digitaL aniMator Surajit Dutta surajit@motivate.ae

hEad of ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar assistant ProduCtion ManagEr Binu Purandaran

gEnEraL ManagEr, grouP saLEs Anthony Milne anthony@motivate.ae

PubLishEr Martin Balmer martin.balmer @motivate.ae

grouP saLEs ManagEr Jaya Balakrishnan jaya@motivate.ae

saLEs ManagEr Deep Karani

rEgionaL ManagEr abu dhabi Imane Eddinari Imane@motivate.ae

dEPuty saLEs ManagEr Amar Kamath

EditoriaL ConsuLtants for EMiratEs Editor Hannah Burden Hamer arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Andy Grant WEbsitE emirates.com InternatIonal MedIa representatIves austraLia/nEW ZEaLand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au bELgiuM and LuXEMbourg M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com China Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 gErMany IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, w.jaeger@imv-media.com hong Kong/MaLaysia/thaiLand Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, hemant@sonneymedia.com india Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, ravi@mediastar.co.in JaPan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, all@tandem-inc.com nEthErLands giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, giovanni@giO-media.nl PaKistan D&S International News Agency; Tel +92 3235345727, dnsnewsagency@gmail.com sWitZErLand, franCE/itaLy & sPain IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imm-international.com turKEy Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr uK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com usa Totem Brand Stories; Tel +1 4168475100, nicole.mullin@tc.tc Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: emirates@motivate.ae

108,978 copies – June 2014 Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

A LEVEL ABOVE BREATHTAKING

Soaring high at 555 meters, At the Top, Burj Khalifa SKY is fittingly Dubai’s most iconic destination. You can now enjoy exclusive access to the redefined, highest outdoor observatory in the world, spread across levels 125 and 148 of the Burj Khalifa. With dedicated lounges, elevator access and complimentary refreshments, you will be personally escorted through stunning views and never seen before interactive experiences.

#TouchTheSky www.atthetop.ae

E D I T O R ’ S

L E T T E R

GARETH REES

W

hen I was 10 years old, my school year was lucky enough to enjoy a weekly swimming class at Cardiff ’s Wales Empire Pool, a beautiful Olympic standard swimming pool that had been one of the key venues for the 1958 British Empire and Commonwealth Games.

The Empire Pool was sadly demolished in 1998, but my memories of those hours spent happily practising my ugly front crawl, competing – well, taking part – in swimming races and, most exciting of all, throwing myself off the diving platforms, are still vivid.

It was this childhood memory that came to mind when I saw World Press Photo Award winner Tim Clayton’s remarkable images of the land divers of Pentecost. The image we have used on our cover left me awestruck; it is a moment of immense courage beautifully captured by a talented spor ts photographer. There is no water. The men of Pentecost fling themselves from a wooden tower towards the hard, unforgiving ear th, rescued from doom, their faces inches from the ground, only by the vines attached to their ankles. Astonishing.

The men of Pentecost fling themselves from a wooden tower towards the hard, unforgiving earth, rescued from doom, their faces inches from the ground, only by the vines attached to their ankles I enjoy swimming. My mum says that on my first visit to the beach I took to the waves like a seasoned triathlete. What I don't enjoy is being more than 10-metres off the ground; I get dizzy and convince myself that the surface beneath my feet is moving and that I'm going to hurl myself towards certain death. As is befitting of the editor of an inflight magazine, I am fine with planes, but place me too far off the ground and too close to the edge of a man-made or natural structure, and I will not be happy.

There were six platforms at the Empire Pool: one at one-metre, two at three-metres, one at five-metres, one at 7.5-metres and a final platform 10-metres from impact. I managed a pencil dive from the five-metre platform that gave me enough confidence to sidle out over the slippery surface of the 7.5-metre platform until I could see the water below, at which point my body began to shake and I retreated in terror.

As this issue went to press, I was saddened to hear that Vanuatu, the South Pacific nation made up of 83 islands, including Pentecost Island, had been overwhelmed by Cyclone Pam. This month’s cover story is dedicated to the men, women and children now bravely rebuilding their lives across Vanuatu. My sympathies, as well as Tim’s and those of everybody involved with Open Skies, are with the people of Vanuatu during this difficult time.

This is my last issue as editor of Open Skies. Thank you all for reading over the last year and a half. It has been a pleasure. Enjoy the issue, and goodbye.

facebook.com/openskiesmagazine

twitter.com/openskiesmag

LOOK OUT FOR THIS ICON ON EACH STORY IN OPEN SKIES FOR AN INSIGHT INTO THE WORLD OF EMIRATES

NOW AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD! | 11 |

C O N T R I B U T O R S

APRIL Some of the people who helped create this issue of Open Skies ARNOLD POESCHL

BEN EAST

FELIX BUSSO

JOE MORTIMER

Arnold is a freelance photographer based between Carinthia in southern Austria and Vienna. For this issue, he travelled to the wonderful city of Munich to photograph the locals for ‘The View From’.

Ben is a freelance writer based in Manchester, England.

For this issue, he looked at the spectacular comeback of the raggedly beautiful pop star Paolo Nutini.

Félix is a fashion and lifestyle photographer based in Buenos Aires, Argentina. For this issue, he photographed the city’s Palermo neighbourhood.

Joe is a freelance travel writer, currently roaming in South America. For this issue, he wrote about Palermo in Buenos Aires, a bubbling pot of creativity in a onceforgotten corner of the city.

“What I really like when travelling is to catch the spirit of a destination,” he says. “Asking locals about their favourite places has always led me to adventure, good views, delicious coffee and solid food.”

“Almost every month, a new singer-songwriter appears from nowhere to capture the imagination.

So to find Paolo Nutini returning after four long years and selling more records than Coldplay is nothing short of incredible,” he says.

“Palermo is now known as one of the most exciting neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires, but I will always connect it with my childhood,” he says.

“I grew up there before it became trendy. Some of the trees are as old as my parents, or even my grandparents, and this overwhelms me.”

KAYE MARTINDALE

TIM CLAYTON

MARI LUZ VIDAL

MIKE PRIEST

Kaye is a semi-nomadic writer currently based in Yorkshire’s beautiful Calder Valley in the UK. For this issue, she travelled to Oslo to eat lunch with best-selling Norwegian crime writer Jo Nesbø.

Tim is a spor ts photographer based near New York. He produced our cover stor y on the land divers of Pentecost, Vanuatu.

Mari is a freelance photographer based in Barcelona and co-editor of the magazine Openhouse: The life we share. For this issue, she photographed a beautiful seafood dish at Barcelona restaurant Betlem for ‘Taste Of ’.

Mike Priest is the editor of the Middle East’s most popular tech title Stuff Middle East.

For this issue, he wrote about William Shatner’s upcoming appearance at the Middle East Film & Comic Con.

“It was great to meet Jo, he’s had so much success in his life – as one of Norway’s biggest pop stars and now as one of its most famous writers,” she says. “I was inspired by his approach to life.”

“After the recent devastation of Cyclone Pam, the courage of the people of Vanuatu will be tested,” he says.

“The land divers are the epitome of courage. I hope their strength and determination will help the communities on the many islands in the region to return quickly to normality.”

“Barcelona is full of restaurants and nice food, but when I was asked to go in search of a taste of Barcelona, I immediately thought of Betlem,” she says.

| 12 |

“There’s a reason to stop and gawp on every street corner in Palermo, where the cobbled, tree-lined streets and crumbling townhouses form a compelling backdrop to daily life in the neighbourhood,” he says.

“Silver screen legend William Shatner, whose most famous role was tacit king of the nerds Captain James Tiberius Kirk, is sure to bring all manner of closet Star Trek fans out of the woodwork at warp speed,” he says.

ABU DHABI CLASSICS INTERNATIONAL CONCERT SEASON

OCTOBER 2014 - MAY 2015

PERFORMANCE CALENDAR APRIL 28th 2015

MAY 12th 2015

MAY 28th 2015

Orchestra Accademia Teatro alla Scala with Mikhail Tatarnikov (conductor) and David Fray (piano)

TCA Abu Dhabi Classics Music Awards

Bertrand Chamayou : Solo Piano Concert, The Wanderer

7:30pm

8:00pm

Emirates Palace Auditorium

Al Qattara Arts Centre, Al Ain

8:00pm Pre-concert Talk at 6pm Emirates Palace Auditorium

APRIL 29th 2015

MAY 27th 2015

BOOK NOW!

Orchestra Accademia Teatro alla Scala: Opera Gala

Bertrand Chamayou : Solo Piano Concert, Global Encounters

Tickets are available now from Ticketmaster.ae

8:00pm

8:00pm

Al Jahili Fort, Al Ain

Manarat Al Saadiyat Auditorium

For more information visit abudhabievents.ae

Official Media Partners

Organised by

C O N T E N T S

FRONT

18 24 27 34 36 Experience

The View From

Lunch With

Taste Of

Stay

42 44 55 Entrepreneur

Neighbourhood

Local Knowledge

MAIN

64 72 The Land Divers Of Pentecost

Time To Celebrate

BRIEFING

76 80 82 84 86 Emirates News

Inside Emirates

Destination

Comfort

88 90 96 98 UAE Smart Gate

Route Map

The Fleet

| 14 |

Entertainment

Visas, Quick Connect & Quarantine Information

F R O N T The View From Munich, p24 | Taste Of Barcelona, p34 | Neighbourhood: Palermo, Buenos Aires, p44

E x p E r i E n c E

April 3, 2015

EISA ALDAH VERSUS KEVIN HANKS Dubai, uaE

Now 36, Emirati boxer Eisa Aldah, nicknamed the Arabian Warrior, made history when he fought a scrawny American called Larry Foster at Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC) on March 24, 2007.

The country’s’ first pro pugilist had generated much attention pre-fight, but the bout lasted just one minute and 40 seconds, and ended with Foster questionably hitting the canvas. The knockout punch had not appeared to connect. “The punch landed,” Anthony Wilson, Aldah’s coach, told me recently.

“Just like Muhammad Ali hit Sonny

Liston with that phantom right hand, Eisa caught the guy on the temple.”

But the damage was done. Boxing’s reputation in the UAE was tarnished and has arguably never recovered, eclipsed now by kickboxing, jiu jitsu and MMA. Aldah, who boasts an 8-2 record, will resume his quest for a world title on April 3. He will fight British welterweight Kevin Hanks as par t of Glory 20 Dubai at DWTC. The fight is the only boxing match on an 11-bout card. “I respect kickboxing, it’s enter taining, but boxing is what I love – I want to grow it in my country,” says Aldah, who took a three-

ice offers a range of action-packed specials on Sport TV, including the boxing documentary I Am Ali.

| 18 |

year break from competition to open a boxing gym. “I want to be a world champion within three years.”

He cer tainly keeps good company.

A close friend of Amir Khan, Aldah has trained at Wild Card Gym alongside Manny Pacquiao and hung out with Floyd Mayweather at the Burj Al Arab. “This is not the same Eisa as before,” he says.

“My movement is better, skills, strength, speed, but the most impor tant thing is to just keep going. If I believe, I will achieve.

I’ll show the people. One day I’ll fight for a world title.” gloryworldseries.com

IMAGE: REM

GARY MEENAGHAN, A SPORTSWRITER FOR UAE NEWSPAPER THE NATIONAL, LOOKS BACK ON THE CAREER OF THE UAE’S ONLY PROFESSIONAL BOXER, EISA ALDAH, AHEAD OF HIS BOUT WITH UK FIGHTER KEVIN HANKS

Dance The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

M AU R I T I U S R E U N I O N M A L D I V E S C H I N A U . A . E ( 2 0 1 6 ) | L U X R E S O R T S. C O M

E x p E r i E n c E

APRIL 9 – 11, 2015

MIDDLE EAST FILM & COMIC CON Dubai, uaE

Now in its fourth year, the Middle East Film & Comic Con promises to be “Bigger, Better & Crazier than ever!”

The organisers are expecting a footfall of some 50,000 eager attendees as the festival returns to the Dubai International Exhibition Centre this month.

Top billing goes to none other than William Shatner, the silver screen legend whose most famous work, por traying tacit king of the nerds Captain James Tiberius Kirk, is sure to bring all manner of closet Star Trek fans out of the woodwork at warp speed, par ticularly in light of the recent passing of his on-

screen co-star Leonard Nimoy. Shatner will be meeting fans for signings and photo ops, as well as injecting his droll humour as par t of a Q&A panel.

Other guests include actor Karl Urban, whose resume reads like a checklist of pop culture hits, including appearances in ever ything from Lord Of The Rings, Judge Dredd and the newly rebooted Star Trek franchise, and Sam J Jones, best known for his role in 1980s cult film Flash Gordon. A dedicated ‘Ar tist’s Alley’ will feature work from international and regional ar tists, with mainstream and independent comic

publishers such as Mar vel and Image on hand to showcase their latest and greatest. Hollywood screenwriter Max Landis (Chronicle) also makes his annual return as host of the hugely popular Cosplay competition.

There’s never been a better time to immerse oneself in a cross-section of all things popular culture, and it’s doubly encouraging to see the level of passion and enthusiasm that’s shared by countless rabid fans across the Middle East who come together once a year to let their geek flags fly. mefcc.com

If you’re a fan of comic-inspired adventures and sci-fi heroes, check out ice Digital Widescreen for movies including Guardians of the Galaxy, The Avengers and all three Iron Man movies.

| 20 |

IMAGE: corbIs IMAGEs

THE FoUrTH MIDDLE EAsT FILM & coMIc coN TAKEs PLAcE IN DUbAI THIs MoNTH. MIKE PRIEST, DEPUTY EDITor oF LEADING TEcH TITLE STUFF MIDDLE EAST, LooKs ForWArD To CAPTAIN KIRK VIsITING THE UAE

E x p E r i E n c E

April 10, 2015

PAOLO NUTINI

Dubai, uaE

When Paolo Nutini’s name flashed up as one of the nominees at this year’s Brit Awards, few expected him to beat the all-conquering Ed Sheeran to the Male Solo Artist gong. But then, until very recently, Nutini probably didn’t even think he’d get an invite to the show. Music blogs had started running articles with worrying headlines like ‘Where has Paolo Nutini been for the past five years?’ – a reference to the time it had taken to record a follow-up to his incredibly popular second album, Sunny Side Up. The answer was taking time out, and slowly but surely fashioning his first

classic album – the record that earned him the Brit nomination – Caustic Love. With critics immediately making references to Joe Cocker, Otis Redding and Rod Stewar t, slowly but surely word of mouth began to build. By the close of 2014, Caustic Love’s winning blend of soul, rock and funk was Britain’s four th biggest-selling album, incredibly outselling Coldplay and One Direction – despite not having one Top Ten single on it.

That’s the endearing thing about Nutini: he’s never really played by the rules. Though he clearly knows his way around a pop song and has boyishly

scruffy good looks, his vocal style is ragged and raw. And because he’s not manufactured to within an inch of his life, he could release Sunny Side Up, tour it, and then take time out to party without worrying whether he was in the papers.

It’s a clever attitude to life, and has meant that Nutini’s three albums in nine years have not only been eagerly-awaited but also beautifully constructed. His tours have become frenzied occasions for Nutini, as well as his fans. A multi-million selling artist doing things his own way?

Nutini deserves an award just for that. paolonutini.com

Hear some Paolo Nutini on today’s flight. His latest album Caustic Love can be found in Recent Releases on ice this month.

| 22 |

IMAGE: CoRbIs IMAGEs

MUsIC WRITER BEN EAST APPLAUDs PAOLO NUTINI’s RELAXED APPRoACH To MUsIC-MAKING AHEAD oF THE sCoTTIsH sINGER-soNGWRITER’s GIG IN DUbAI THIs MoNTH

T H E

V I E W

F R O M

MUNICH CHRISTINA WAIDMANN, ADVERTISING PROJECT MANAGER, 28, LEHEL, MUNICH, GERMANY IMAGE: ARNOLD POESCHL

“I REALLY ENJOY BEING ON MY OWN AND INDEPENDENT ON MY BIKE. I LOVE TO RIDE THROUGH MUNICH, AND ESPECIALLY THROUGH MY QUARTER, LEHEL, RIGHT NEXT TO THE ENGLISH GARDEN. WITH MY BIKE I CAN STOP ANYTIME, WAIT AND TAKE A LOOK AT THE PEOPLE AND PLACES. AT LUNCHTIME, I OFTEN TAKE A BIKE RIDE TO FRAULEIN GRUENEIS, A CAFÉ IN A SMALL CABIN RIGHT AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE ENGLISH GARDEN. AFTER WORK, I LIKE TO GO TO THE GLOCKENBACK VIERTEL (THE QUARTER NEXT TO LEHEL).

THERE ARE TAPAS BARS, SUCH AS FERDINGS, WHICH SERVES SOLID FOOD IN AN INDUSTRIAL CHIC INTERIOR. AND IF THE EVENING IS GOING TO GO ON FOR LONGER, THERE ARE PLENTY OF BARS TO HANG OUT IN.”

Munich is an all-A380 destination, with two daily services on the flagship double-decker aircraft. Germany also plays a significant role in the production of the Airbus A380. German aeronautical businesses contribute to the production of the aircraft’s cabin interiors, lighting, crew rest and Onboard Shower to name just a few.

Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel: +971-4-327 5151, Fax: +971-4-327 5252 Email: mepc@eim.ae Web: www.educationmalaysia.gov.my

L u n c h

w i t h

JO NESBØ Kaye Martindale talk to best-selling Norwegian crime writer Jo Nesbø over scallops, monkfish and a pisco sour at his friend’s Oslo restaurant, Aymara images: geOFF BROKaTe

A

s the minutes pass by, I grow increasingly worried.

I’m supposed to be meeting Jo Nesbø, best-selling author and the king of Nordic Noir, but it’s been tricky to pin him down and I’m concerned that he’s had a last minute change of hear t.

I’ve been scanning the street for Jo for 40 minutes when a cyclist wearing a hi-vis jacket obscures my view. As he turns and takes off his helmet, I realise it’s him. Relief and surprise

sweep through me in equal measure. I wasn’t expecting the novelist, who’s sold more than 25 million books, to arrive on a pushbike.

Any doubts I had about Jo’s enthusiasm for the interview dissipate as soon as he greets me. His whole being seems to smile. He’s bursting with explanations and apologies for his tardiness. He got lost. “It’s a new restaurant”, he explains, “I haven’t been here before”.

| 27 |

L u n c h

w i t h

Jo is a household name in norway. He’s sold tHree million books in His native land, wHere tHe population is only five million We are in Aymara, a finely realised restaurant, named after the native Aymara people of the Andean region of South America. Every detail has been carefully tended to in order to ensure the perfect balance between Mayan aesthetics and contemporary style. The friendly staff are the epitome of Scandinavian cool with their elaborately groomed facial hair and piercings.

To my surprise, Jo greets the owner with a hear ty embrace.

“This is how small Oslo is,” he says with a grin, before explaining that they’re climbing buddies.

Jo is a household name in Norway. He’s sold three million books in his native land, where the population is only five million. This means that you are likely to find one of his books in every second household in Norway. Yet if the clientele of Aymara have recognised Jo, they are playing it cool.

As he talks in Norwegian with his friend, I pick out the words pisco sour – a typical South American cocktail made with egg white – as a waiter deposits a glass in front of Jo. I’d watched a few YouTube videos of Jo before our meeting, in which he looked bored and a little standoffish, and that, along with his penchant for thinking up imaginatively grizzly ends for the characters in his novels, had created a sense of foreboding in me about how the interview would go.

I couldn’t have been fur ther off the mark. When I ask him if answering the same questions over and over again ever becomes tedious, he is happy to explain his attitude to the interview process.

He seems to grow taller and happier as he answers, leaning forward slightly. “It’s not like I hate inter views, if I hated them I wouldn’t do them but…” he grins as he pauses, “when I star ted out I thought having someone listen really carefully when I talked would be great. I was surprised when after a while I got tired of hearing my own voice and hearing myself repeat the same stories.”

But he doesn’t show any signs of interview fatigue: listening to Jo talk is as engrossing as reading one of his books. I’m pulled into his world as his fast-paced enthusiasm carries me seamlessly through his stories.

Our star ters arrive: catch of the day (cod) with leche de tigre, a Peruvian citrus dressing, maize corn and sweet potato, along with a dish of scallops and passion fruit marinade.

Jo spent his teenage years dreaming of being a professional football player, a common enough ambition among adolescent boys but one that Jo had the skill and dedication to achieve.

He was playing for Molde FK, one of Norway’s top clubs, by the age of 19. But then a knee injury shattered his dream.

a number of norwegian companies are based in dubai, which acts as a hub for their activities in the middle east. well-known companies like Jotun have played an active part in dubai’s construction industry, most notably providing exterior paint for burj khalifa, the world’s tallest building.

| 29 |

L u n c h

w i t h

Jo tells me that despite being in Norway’s biggest baNd, he wouldn’t leave his day Job Life could have taken a negative turn here for Jo, but instead of lamenting his loss, he threw himself whole-hear tedly into new pursuits. After mandatory army service, he stayed on an extra year in the military to complete three years of high school studies in six months.

With his qualifications under his belt, he went on to become a stockbroker. Although outwardly successful, the financial world wasn’t his “cup of tea in the long run”. So, seeking an escape, he formed a band, Di Derre, with his brother and some friends.

“We had no plans; we just wanted to play a few gigs,” he says. “We started writing our own songs and then we got a couple of offers from record companies. We weren’t the greatest band in the world but we had good songs. We put out one album, the critics liked it but it wasn’t a commercial success but then the second album… We had two hits and boom! We were the biggest selling band in Norway.”

Jo chivalrously offers me the last scallop as he insists that he preferred being in the band before they made it big. Reticent to go into specifics about his rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle, he admits that the intimate gigs they played to their small but dedicated following before fame were like par ties. “We often wouldn’t even be on stage, the only thing between the audience and us was the mic stands and the monitors.”

As the waiter deposits more food from head chef Kim Danien Mikalsen’s kitchen – monkfish and some heavenly potatoes that have been smoked, mashed and then rolled

with mushrooms and radish – Jo tells me that despite being in Norway’s biggest band, he wouldn’t leave his day job. “I refused to quit as I didn’t want music to pay the rent. The rest of the band toured as full-time musicians while I continued to work as a stockbroker. It was a crazy situation. They were on a bus travelling around the country and after every gig I jumped on a plane back to Oslo for my day job.”

After one year of leading a double life, Jo needed another escape. Suffering from burnout, he left for Australia. He’d been given some encouragement from a publisher friend to write an autobiography about his life, and he thought he’d give it ago.

What poured out instead was his first crime novel. The Bat features the troubled detective Harry Hole, a character who has created a large and loyal fan base for Jo around the world.

Jo dreamt up Harry and almost the entire plot on the 30-hour flight from Oslo to Sydney.

A platinum selling album and 19 books later, with a Hollywood movie and TV series on the way, it looks from the outside that Jo has had a blessed life. He reflects that it could all have gone terribly wrong when he shattered his knee. “It was a turning point and I was lucky. I wake up in the morning and know that I can’t take it for granted. I’m not that interested in money. I’m not interested in fame. I like those things but I just love the job. I’ve had a lot of jobs and this is the best by far.”

The waiter hovers, waiting for us to finish our second course, which is taking us a while to get through as Jo regales

| 31 |

10

L u n c h

w i t h

I gRew uP In A sToryTelling fAMIly me with his tales. We eat up and they bring more food. As I wasn’t privy to the ordering I have no idea that two more huge plates of meat are on their way. Jo bellows a deep hear ty laugh as I exclaim that I’m a vegetarian.

The author traces his love of stor ytelling back to his childhood. “I grew up in a stor ytelling family. It was something we focused on. We would say ‘he’s a good stor yteller’ or ‘did you hear the way he told that stor y?'”

“Even when I was really young the older boys would ask me to tell that ghost stor y. I didn’t have a technique. I guess by instinct I put the right ingredients together. I imagined that I was a listener too so I would tell it how I wanted to hear it.

They told me later the reason they asked was because they could hear the fear in my voice when I was talking.”

Jo’s stories continue to instil fear into his readers as his unfor tunate characters meet their ends in grotesque and elaborate ways. I tentatively ask how he conjures up the death scenes.

“I don’t imagine the killing so much as I imagine ways in which I don’t want to die. A lot of my stories or ideas come indirectly from childhood memories and fantasies that were born when I was young. When you’re young there’s no censorship of the mind, you think about ever ything. You think you’re abnormal, that if someone spent 10 seconds inside your head they would run screaming out. But then bit by bit you realise that ever yone is like that.”

As I read Jo’s books half in terror, half enthralled, I imagined elements of his characters reflected in their creator.

I scan his seemingly shiny persona for dark, brooding traits,

and ask how is it to spend so many of days inside the minds’ of psychopaths.

“Whenever you find a thought repulsive you automatically turn it away. That is what makes my job interesting. What most people don’t want to think about or find hard to think about, I have to have the courage, will and per versity of mind to say okay: let’s go into the cave.”

“It’s like Nabokov, there’s no reason to believe that he was a paedophile but then again he chose to stay in the mind of a paedophile for a long time. In order to do that you have to open up, you have to be willing. I mean in Lolita the main character is ver y pathetic. He’s someone you both sympathise with and despise. You find in all characters that there are things that you don’t like, and that is really hard, but at the bottom there’s something ver y human that’s common for all of us. If you can get down to that, you’ll be able to write about that protagonist as a real character.”

After three courses and two hours of almost non-stop talking about himself, I catch Jo stifle a yawn. As we say our goodbyes, the table of eight sat next to us begin a friendly debate with Jo in Norwegian. At ease, he laughs and chats with them, as I think that he’s an ordinar y guy who’s been extraordinarily good at rolling with the changes and challenges that life has thrown at him. He says goodbye to the table as if they are old friends, and I ask what they were talking about.

He answers that they were demanding that he make a new album with his band. “I’ve written all my songs, I don’t have any more in me,” he says. Never one to look back, Jo slips on to his bike and rides off into the Norwegian darkness.

The Bill 1 x Pisco sour (kr112) 2 x Red wine (kr102) 1 x Ceviche Miraflores (kr152) 1 x Scallop Tiradito (kr138) 1 x Papa a la huancaina (kr128) 1 x Achiote (kr168) 1 x Oksebryst sous vide (kr179) Presa Iberica (kr192) Total: kr1,171 | 33 |

T a s T e

O f

B a r c e l O n a

| 34 |

T A S T E

O F

B A R C E L O N A

PULPO CON ESCALIBADA Opened in 1892, and boasting a storied history and numerous proprietors, Barcelona’s El Betlem is now a gastro bar run by chef Victor Ferrer Galán and serving cuisine that respects the restaurant’s heritage, including this octopus dish IMAGE: MARI LUZ VIDAL

INGREDIENTS FOR THE PULPO CON ESCALIBADA: 1 octopus tentacle 1 aubergine 2 onions 1 red pepper 50ml olive oil Black pepper

STEPS 1 2 3

4 5

HISTORY

The tentacle should be frozen to break down the fibres and make it soften. Once defrosted, clean the octopus Immerse the octopus in hot salted water and remove it quickly. Repeat this process three times. Boil for 40 minutes Burn the skin of the aubergine in a hot pan, and then place it in an 180˚C oven for 10 minutes. Allow it to cool, and then remove the skin and slice the flesh Bake the onions for 90 minutes at 200˚C, allow to cool, remove the skin and slice the flesh Bake the red pepper for 15 minutes at 200˚C, turn over and bake for another 15 minutes.

Allow it to cool, remove the skin and slice the flesh

6

Marinate the vegetables in salt, black pepper and olive oil

7

Grill the octopus for a few minutes to colour the skin a little, and cut into slices

8

Originally opened in 1892, El Betlem has survived two wars, dictatorships, globalisation and the era of fast food and big shopping centres. It has done this by combining classic flavours with modern cuisine. After five years of managing El Betlem as a traditional deli, its owner and chef, Victor Ferrer Galán, decided to transform it into a gastro bar, while maintaining the authenticity of the food and respecting the restaurant’s history. Octopus is very popular in Spain, and par ticularly in Galician cooking, because of the access to such high-quality seafood. This recipe is a combination of a traditional dish from Catalonia and Galician seafood.

It’s common to eat octopus with potatoes in the Galician style (with paprika), but this dish is freshened up by combining the Galician grilled octopus with traditional smoky Catalan Escalibada (roasted vegetables, served cold), rather than the heavier, warm potatoes.

Arrange the vegetables on a large plate, place the octopus on top and dress with salt and olive oil

The Emirates A380 flies daily to Barcelona, and starting next month a second daily service to the Catalan capital will launch with a Boeing 777.

Emirates also flies twice daily to Madrid with the Boeing 777.

| 35 |

S t a y :

R o o m

Junior Suite, raffleS makati manila, philippines

Words: GArETH rEEs ImAGE: rAfflEs mAkATI The 32-suite Raffles Makati is located in the highly developed financial centre of Manila, Makati, within walking distance of the popular Greenbelt Shopping Centre and a 10-minute taxi ride from the bars and restaurants of Bonifacio Global City.

Raffles’ elegant Junior Suite is a combination of classic style and contemporary comfort, with a

predominantly neutral colour palette set off by dark wood floors and more colourful soft furnishings in luxurious fabrics. Go for a morning swim in one of the two outdoor pools, before sipping an espresso in the suite’s separate lounge area. After an afternoon spa treatment at the Willow Stream Spa or a tough workout in the impressive fitness centre,

take a long soak in the bath while enoying a superb view of the city below. Then, in the evening, step into your dress shoes – freshly polished by your personal butler – before heading off for a cocktail in the relaxed Writers Bar or the livelier Long Bar. Raffles Makati is the perfect shelter from the busy city of Manila. raffles.com/makati

Emirates began flights between Dubai and Manila in 1990. Today Emirates offers twice daily, non-stop service between the two cities.

| 36 |

Talk freely Low cost international and national calls PLUS

Great value bundles for mobile internet

Present your boarding pass at one of the below locations to get your FREE prepaid SIM with credit * UK: WHSmith store at Birmingham, Heathrow & Manchester Arrivals Netherlands: Lebara stand at Amsterdam Schiphol Plaza (located near the arrival exits 3 or 4) Australia: Lebara Stand at Sydney International airport (located at arrival exits AB & CD) Denmark: WHSmith store at Copenhagen Arrivals Always by your side Australia

|

Denmark

lebara.com |

France

|

Germany

|

Netherlands

|

*Terms and conditions apply at lebara.com. Credit included with your FREE SIM will be: ÂŁ1 in the UK, â‚Ź1 in the NL, $1 in Australia & 10 DKK in Denmark.

Poland

|

Spain

|

UK

S t a y :

C l a S S i C

THE PIERRE NEW YORK, USA

Words: LIsA WALL ImAge: THe PIerre Opened in 1930, The Pierre has built a reputation as one of New York’s grand properties, with notable guests including Elizabeth Taylor and Yves Saint-Laurent.

Overlooking Central Park and featuring a stately exterior and ornate public spaces, The Pierre offers a taste of old New York with subtle touches

honouring the Indian heritage of Taj Hotels Resor ts And Palaces, the group that acquired the hotel a decade ago.

Despite the recent US$100 million renovation, The Pierre still attends to guests with old-fashioned formality, offering white-gloved elevator attendants, twice-daily housekeeping, a turndown service and overnight shoeshine.

The elegant guestrooms are furnished with plump soft furnishings, plush carpets and rich silk and brocade fabrics, as well as Turkish marble bathrooms in neutral tones.

When you do decide to drag yourself back outside, those revolving doors will plant you on Fifth Avenue. tajhotels.com

Emirates flies four times daily to the Big Apple. There are three daily non-stop A380 services to choose from, plus a fourth daily flight that makes a stopover in the Italian fashion capital, Milan.

| 38 |

S t a y :

C o n t e m p o r a r y

TIERRA PATAGONIA PATAGONIA, CHILE

Words: Joe MortiMer iMage: tierra patagonia Patagonia is a land of sublime landscapes, howling winds and towering mountains.

Nestled on the shore of Lake Sarmiento, on the edge of Torres del Paine National Park, it’s hard to distinguish the Tierra Patagonia resort, built entirely from indigenous lenga wood, from the surrounding landscape.

Floor-to-ceiling windows in the minimalist rooms and the cavernous restaurant-

cum-lounge frame awe-inspiring views of the Paine Massif, while indigenous wildlife such as guanacos and rheas (Patagonian ostriches) stroll past.

The sun-dappled mountain range is the first thing you see each morning and the backdrop for most of the hikes and horse rides that form the backbone of the Tierra Patagonia experience.

The great outdoors is brought into the

rooms via sheepskin rugs, lenga woodpanelled walls and bathrooms stocked with locally made products and murals depicting the windswept landscape.

To cap off your day, sup cocktails in the outdoor hot tub or ease aching limbs in the indoor pool, before a dinner of Patagonian lamb in the atrium of the vast, ark-like lodge, as the sun dips behind the mountains. tierrapatagonia.com

Download The Emirates App for iPad and iPhone. Your personal journey planner makes it simple to view and arrange your trips when you’re on the go.

It’s also launching on Android next month.

| 40 |

E n t r E p r E n E u r

WALL & KEOGH PORTOBELLO, DUBLIN, IRELAND Words: AndreW BirBeck iMAGe: WALL & keoGH

Oliver T Cunningham believed so strongly in the old addage ‘you just can’t beat a good cup of tea’ that he fled Dublin’s IT scene in 2007 and took off backpacking across the globe in search of the perfect cuppa. His travels took him to Guatemala, India, Brazil and Vietman, where he learned the craft of sourcing the very best loose leaf tea on the planet. “When I got back in late 2009 it really hit me how poor the tea scene in Dublin had become,” Oliver tells me. “Most cafés I went into were soulless places and the tea being served wasn’t great.” Oliver realised that he could put all he’d learned to good use and he went in search of suitable premises. One day he was wandering through the bohemian district of Por tobello, adjacent to Dublin’s Grand Canal, and spotted a derelict shop. “It hadn’t been used since the 1960s,” he says. “And I loved the name, which was still visible under all the cracked paint.” A hunt for the landlord ensued and eventually a deal was struck to bring the place back to life. “Wall & Keogh just seemed right, I got a feeling about it. It suited the idea,” says Oliver. The shop became an instant hit. Por tobello, just a stone’s throw from the city-centre, was rejuvenating and attracting a hip young crowd. Oliver too wanted to create “an alternative to the pub. A place where people could hang out, get a bite to eat, play music, read and meet friends”. Alongside the café, the wholesale side flourished, with Wall & Keogh now supplying many of Ireland’s premiere food retailers. So, I ask Oliver, what’s the best cup of tea you’ve ever had? He replies with a grin, “Well, apar t from one right here, it’d have to be Orange Valley Estate, Darjeeling. It really doesn’t get any better.” wallandkeogh.wix.com/wallandkeogh

More than half a million passengers have travelled on the Dubai-Dublin route since it launched in 2012. Today Emirates offers a twice daily non-stop service between the two cities on the Boeing 777-300ER.

| 42 |

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

PALERMO, BUENOS AIRES Words: Joe MortiMer iMages: FeLiX BUsso

| 44 |

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

When Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges lived in quiet, suburban Palermo at the beginning of the 20th century, he could scarcely have imagined what it would turn into.

Now, everyone wants in on Palermo, a once run-down neighbourhood where independent fashion designers, daring chefs and bearded barbers clamour for

commercial space in graffiti-covered buildings and crumbling mansions.

The gentrification of Palermo, the biggest barrio in Buenos Aires, began in the late 1990s, when artists and designers moved north to escape soaring rents.

Today, it has reached the apex of its ascent to stardom, with star chefs like Peru’s Gaston Acurio opening new restaurants

and the price of real estate increasing faster than anywhere else in town.

But the cobbled, tree-lined streets still retain their charm, and many property owners would rather restore their antiquated townhouses than sell to developers, preserving the character of this quintessential Buenos Aires neighbourhood.

Emirates offers daily passenger flights from Dubai to destinations in South America including Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.

In addition, Emirates SkyCargo operates freighter service to Quito in Ecuador and Campinas in Brazil.

| 45 |

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

TEGUI

Palermo’s rough-around-the-edges aesthetic meets Manhattan chic at Tegui, Germán Martitegui’s third and most daring Buenos Aires restaurant. The star chef commissioned Argentine stencil artist Cabaio to turn the façade into a colourful mural, behind which lies a world of dimly lit splendour, with rows of intimate tables and smartly dressed waiters pouring wine for a discerning clientele. After proving his worth at Olsen and Casa Cruz, two other acclaimed Palermo institutions, Martitegui has created in Tegui a showcase kitchen where his culinary artistry runs wild. Tasting menus of four or eight courses (with optional wine parings) change frequently; one day he might present his take on traditional Argentine dishes, the next it might be classical French fare, all created in an open kitchen that takes up the rear of the restaurant. Experiments with texture, colour, aroma and taste have earned Tegui a just reputation as one of the best restaurants in Latin America.

Costa Rica 5852, Palermo, Buenos Aires | Tel: +54 11 4770 9500 | tegui.com.ar

LAS PIZARRAS BISTRO

Things move fast in Buenos Aires. Locals wake up every morning wondering whether the cost of living has crept up overnight, and more enthusiastically, what the chalkboard menus at Las Pizarras Bistro will have to offer on that day. Brainchild of chef Rodrigo Castilla, who opened the restaurant with his savings following several years working in kitchens across Europe, this unassuming Palermo Soho bistro prides itself on its fresh, rustic, organic cuisine and homemade products. Menus change daily following morning trips to local markets, and the availability of products from local organic suppliers. Think deer with parsnip purée, baby carrots and cherry chutney, or cured trout and herb aioli with a salad of apple, almond and cucumber. The extensive wine selection, curated by Castilla, is also in a state of constant flux, with plenty of refreshing whites and fewer oaky reds in the summer months, and the reverse in the winter.

Thames 2296, Palermo, Buenos Aires | Tel: +54 11 47750625 | laspizarrasbistro.com | 47 |

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

HOLLYWOOD IN CAMBODIA

Freedom of opinion has its limits in Buenos Aires, which is perhaps why street ar t, graffiti or muralism, as it is variously known, has been a popular act of self-expression for almost 50 years. Although it remains illegal, graffiti is gaining traction as a legitimate ar t form in the city. At Palermo’s Hollywood in Cambodia galler y, visitors can view and purchase individual works of ar t from some of the scene’s main protagonists – the likes of Bs As Stencil, Malatesta and Pum Pum – who can sometimes be found working in the rooftop galler y-cum-workspace or hanging out at the graffiti-covered Post Street Bar below. Run by several street ar t collectives, the space also holds interactive workshops and hosts live painting sessions on its huge roof terrace, which doubles as a living canvas: new murals are made and painted over continually, creating a living and constantly evolving piece of ar t in the hear t of the neighbourhood.

Thames 1885, Palermo, Buenos Aires | Tel: +54 911 3683 3219 | hollywoodincambodia.com.ar

LAB. TOSTADORES DE CAFÉ

Buenos Aires is not renowned for quality coffee, but that’s all changing, as a new wave of young, passionate barristas set up shop in the city. In Palermo, LAB is leading the charge. The entrepreneur-led business started roasting its own beans in 2012 and opened its training centre and coffee shop in October 2014. Inside you’ll find shelves stacked high with home-roasted beans and a gleaming Italian espresso maker behind the bar, a welcome sight in a city whose relationship with coffee has been limited to the ubiquitous café cortado for decades. Stop by for a Colombian Yumai Estrella Dorada espresso, or join a class to learn how to roast your own beans. Professional classes are also available for aspiring baristas. You can buy any of the coffees sold at the store’s Brew Bar in bean form – ask nicely and they’ll grind them for you while you sup on a fresh, bitter espresso.

Humbolt 1542, Palermo, Buenos Aires | Tel: +55 11 4776 7167 | labcafe.com.ar | 49 |

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

HOME HOTEL BUENOS AIRES

You’ll feel at home as soon as you walk into this Palermo Hollywood bolthole, a labour of love for owners Patricia O’Shea and Tom Rixton, who bought the proper ty in 2003 and spent two-and-a-half years turning it into the neighbourhood’s first boutique hotel.

The couple have fitted out Home’s common areas and 20 rooms, suites and lofts – including the apar tment where they lived while restoring the proper ty – with antique furniture bought from the nearby Mercado de las Pulgas (flea market) and vintage wallpaper, an effect that has earned Home a handful of awards from the likes of Mr & Mrs Smith and Wallpaper*. Even if you’re not staying the night, pop in for a pre-dinner drink or Sunday brunch in the lush jasmine-scented garden, or treat yourself to a spa day and spend the afternoon on the pool deck in the shade of the native palo borracho tree.

Honduras 5860, Palermo, Buenos Aires | Tel: +54 11 4778-1008 | homebuenosaires.com

MALBA

New York has MOMA; London has Tate Modern; Buenos Aires has MALBA, the Museum of Latin American Art. It might be a stretch too far to say that MALBA single-handedly revived global interest in Latin American art, but it was certainly the most important institutional innovation of the new millennium in Argentina. MALBA opened its doors in September 2001, months before the Argentine economic crash that followed in December. In doing so, it ignited a newfound appreciation for 20th century Latin American artists like Xul Solar, Jorge de la Vega and Antonio Berni, whose work is currently celebrated in a huge exhibition. The rest of the space is filled with the permanent collection of Argentine tycoon Eduardo Constantini, who built MALBA to house his vast accumulation of Latin American treasures, as well as a cinema showcasing local films and an educational centre with regular workshops and talks.

Av. Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Palermo, Buenos Aires | Tel: +54 11 4808 6500 | malba.org.ar | 51 |

perfumery is available in

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

SALON BERLIN PELUQUERIA Y BAR

If you’re wondering where all the smar tly-coiffed hipsters in Buenos Aires go to have their plumage preened, look no fur ther than Salon Berlin Peluqueria y Bar. Par t old-world barber shop, par t bar, Salon Berlin is an ode to times gone by, where professional barbers specialise in classic haircuts for gentlemen and all manner of beard and moustache styles. The Palermo institution is filled with vintage barbershop paraphernalia: there’s a collection of old shaving brushes and a colourful array of straight razors used for close and clean shaves, while faces wearing luxuriant beards peer down from framed prints on the walls. It gets busy in the evenings, but no one minds the wait, since well-crafted classic cocktails and other beverages are prepared at the bar on the other side of the room, and gentlemen waiting their turn can play ping-pong and dar ts while admiring each others’ facial grooming.

Humboldt 1411, Palermo, Buenos Aires | Tel: +54 11 4771 5000

FRANK’S MOMENTS & DRINKS CO.

Palermo’s charming old buildings seem haunted by the ghosts of a bygone era, lending themselves perfectly to this retro-style speakeasy.

If you have a reservation for dinner at Frank’s Moments & Drinks Co., the bouncer will give you a code to dial into a telephone booth, which swings open to reveal the not-so-secret bar and restaurant within. Inside, vintage wallpaper and crystal chandeliers set the mood for a sultry evening of bacchanalian pleasure, and barmen in waistcoats, bowties and creative facial hair make some of the best cocktails in the city. Tapas-style bar snacks include traditional Argentine cuts such as mollejas (sweetbreads) and grilled octopus, with decadent deserts drizzled in the ubiquitous Argentine caramel sauce dulce de leche. Find your spot in the downstairs bar, which reeks of moustache wax and aromatic bitters, or make your way upstairs to a VIP area looking out over the stylish crowd below.

Arévalo 1443, Palermo, Buenos Aires | Tel: +54 11 4777-6541 | franks-bar.com | 53 |

The online platform for pre-loved luxury watches

Dubai,UAE

L o c a L

K n o w L e d g e

FRIENDS’ AVENUE CAFÉ Three young friends from Uzbekistan are hoping to join the ranks of Dubai’s many successful independent ventures with the launch of their dream café in the city’s JLT WORDS: SANDRA TINARI IMAGES: KEIRON THROSSELL

“I

think we might be the youngest restaurateurs in the UAE,” says Fazz Kosimov of the young and ambitious three-man team behind the newly launched Friends’ Avenue Café, a laidback coffee shop and restaurant in Dubai’s JLT neighbourhood.

Having only opened the doors at the end of Februar y, the young trio – Fazz

(23), Dave Hamidov (24) and Zee Alikhonov (24) – has already built a loyal clientele of coffee connoisseurs and lovers of good, wholesome food.

“With our friendship and young age, we wanted to bring together our energy and passion to create a place where people can socialise, enjoy quality gourmet food and build a

| 55 |

strong relationship with a likeminded business,” says Fazz.

“Friends’ Avenue Café is not a fast food fuel stop, nor is it a fancy, special occasion restaurant. We are a casual, relaxed place, which forms par t of your daily or weekly routine. We are aiming to create a warm, comfor ting space that ser ves the type of food that you

L o c a L

K n o w L e d g e

All these people with diverse backgrounds mAke the AreA even more attractive want to have with your friends, family and people close to you.”

Having studied, worked and travelled across the world, the trio were inspired by the chilled-out back streets of New York, while working in various cafés in the city. The atmosphere of Manhattan’s long avenues, where people “can walk, chat, and enjoy their time, feeling stress-

free”, helped to inspire the new café’s concept and name a world away in JLT. “JLT is one of those areas that is not really saturated with all sorts of cafés and restaurants,” says Fazz. “It is especially lacking places that serve very good quality food and coffee at reasonable prices. On top of that, the JLT community is a mix of various nations, mostly expats

from Europe and Asia. All these people with diverse backgrounds make the area even more attractive.”

The menu at Friends’ Avenue Café features a fresh blend of Australian, English and European favourites, all competitively priced. The carefully selected breakfast menu features a wide variety of dishes, ranging from brioche

Do reading the words ‘friends’ and ‘café’ make you want to watch a re-run of the hit tv series Friends? Check out essential tv on ice Digital widescreen for 36 episodes of the ever-popular American sitcom.

| 57 |

L o c a L

French toast to the Friends’ Breakfast Board, which incorporates sautéed mushrooms, smoked salmon, asparagus, tomato confit, two poached eggs, feta cheese, pesto and toasted rye, while the lunch menu consists of freshly made sandwiches, crunchy salads and carefully selected main courses.

As for the coffee, the café’s resident barista, Richard Madayag, brings a wealth of experience to Friends’ Avenue, having worked as a barista both abroad and at the Abu Dhabi branch of popular café chain Jones The Grocer. Richard, who says he left Jones because he was

K n o w L e d g e

excited about being a key member of the opening team, serves only the freshest of coffee, brewed from beans roasted in Dubai by local roastery RAW Coffee Company, and enjoys experimenting with his own recipes.

Customers include workers from JLT’s many office towers, as well as local residents. With the recent launch of a five-star hotel next door the café is also visited by tourists and businesspeople, par ticularly from the US and Europe.

Open six days a week, from 7.30am to 6pm (Friday is their day to “chill”), Friends’ Avenue plans to add dinner

options to their menu and open seven days a week soon.

With a friendship dating back almost seven years, the trio say they knew early on that their dream was to open their own coffee shop together in Dubai.

“Dubai is considered one of the fastest growing cities in the world. It is a young city, very passionate to grow and to create a place and experiences that you cannot find anywhere in the world.

So this is a right place for us,” says Fazz. ”We are also young and ready to grow with Dubai. You know, Dubai 2020 Expo is on the way, so this could be the once

the trio say they knew early on that their dream was to open their own coffee shop together in dubai

| 59 |

L o c a L

K n o w L e d g e

Having homegrown brands is very important for any city in tHe world in a lifetime opportunity for us to be part of the world.”

“Honestly, the food business is not an easy business to be in,” he continues. “It has so many ups-downs but it’s so much fun.

After deep market research, we felt that Dubai was lacking concept cafés; there are only a few here at the moment.”

With Friends’ Avenue Café the first of a handful of planned ventures, the three food and coffee lovers believe that now is an exciting time for Dubai’s food

scene with the growing popularity of young, homegrown and independent food concepts.

“There are so many opportunities for businesses in Dubai,” says Fazz. “Having homegrown brands is very important for any city in the world. Big brands are everywhere and have full power to operate in any market. But, having such young homegrown businesses gives a different touch to the whole city. First of all, it’s a sign of economic prosperity, but having | 61 |

young brands also creates opportunities for a city to think out of the box, to create something new, innovate and develop.”

“Everything is changing very fast, including food and food concepts,” Fazz continues. “We need to cope with the changes and stay up-to-date. Usually, this kind of concept store is developed by young entrepreneurs, who have a strong passion and a whole bunch of new ideas. I believe young teams are more capable of keeping up with these changes.”

M A I N The Land Divers Of Pentecost, p64 | Time To Celebrate, p72

T h e

L a n d

d i v e r s

O f

eaCh Y ea r, eve rY Weeken d beT W een m a rCh an d J un e, T he maL e i n ha b i TanTs o f Th e sou Th PaCi fi C i s La n d of P e n TeCosT h ur L Thems eLves fro m a Ti mb er ToW e r Wi Th o nLY a v i n e T i ed To eaCh a nkL e To Pr ev enT Them fro m CoL L i di ng Wi T h The ground b e LoW. Wo r L d P r ess PhoTo aWa r d-W i n ni n g P h oTo gra Pher Ti m CL aY To n ’s sT r i k ing i mag es Ca P T u r e Thi s s P eCTaCu L ar T ra d i Ti on Words and images Tim CLaYTon | 66 |

P e n T e c O s T

C

hief Lauran Tho, 39, is the most respected elder in his village, which is located near Lonorore Airpor t in the south west of the island of Pentecost, one of 83 islands that make up the South Pacific nation of Vanuatu.

Chief Tho stares piercingly at a young teenage boy perched precariously eight metres above the ground, balancing on the edge of a wooden platform jutting out from a tall tower constructed of timber poles. Chief Tho’s stare is concentrated, as if he’s looking into the boy’s soul.

Suddenly Chief Tho jumps to his feet, and with hands gesticulating wildly, calls a halt to the young boy’s progress and orders him down off the jump tower. The platform is broken with a loud crack, the vines are untied from the boys feet, and he breathes more easily, relieved but not ashamed, for he respects the Chief ’s decision. The boy heads back to the base of the jump to join his tribesmen, who dance and sing in preparation for the next jumper.

For Chief Tho it’s a sixth sense, a gift, a mystical magic that everybody respects.

He is the village’s land diving doctor.

“I bless the vines and the vines tell me when something is not right,” he explains later. “If somebody is going to

T h e

L a n d

get hurt, if they [the vines] tell me this, I stop the jump.”

Chief Tho’s record speaks for itself.

During his 17 years as a land diving doctor not one of his jumpers has ever been hurt, which is an amazing statistic when you consider other jump sites in south Pentecost have experienced many injuries and three fatalities in recent years.

Soon after the teenage boy is called down from the tower by Chief Tho, Jeanis Asal, the elder of two bearded 30-something brothers (although neither is sure of his age) climbs the tower to the highest jump point about 10 metres above the ground. Asal wears nothing but his traditional belt, which holds his nambas (abdominal shield) in place. Two tribesmen secure the vines to his ankles.

This time, after Chief Tho’s soul searching stare and consultation with the vines, he gives the go ahead.

Men and women of all ages, dressed in traditional costume, dance and sing with ever increasing tempo at the base of the tower ; the pulsating chanting is accompanied by whoop whoop sounds that build a feeling of anticipation in the waiting audience.

d i v e r s

O f

P e n T e c O s T

Asal, now on top of the tower, works his audience, which today consists of 12 tourists who have flown in on a day trip from Vanuatu’s capital, Por t Vila; he arches his back to the heavens and claps a beat; he continues to encourage the audience like a pole vaulter preparing for a world record attempt, building the rhythm and intensity of their chant, psyching himself up for the jump.

As the sound reaches a climax, Asal launches himself off the 10-metre platform in the style of an Olympic diver – precise form, perfect balance – only there is no water below, just the rich brown clay of the hillside. The two vines attached to each ankle are the only things stopping him crashing into the ear th and suffering almost cer tain death. The vines tighten to break his fall in a violet jerk and there’s a huge crack from the platform’s shock absorber mechanism. Built from carefully crafted wooden struts that the vines lay over, the ingenious device is designed to snap at the full tension of the jump.

Asal is dragged from the jaws of death with inches to spare. He lies spread eagle, face down on the ear th; two aids rush to his side to check on his | 67 |

wellbeing. Asal is more concerned about whether his nambas is still in place. He stands to his full height, his gleaming white teeth glistening from the depths of his bushy black beard as he smiles and waves at the audience.

The dive is over in the blink of an eye, but the audience responds with rapturous applause, knowing it is one of the most extraordinary spor ting spectacles they have ever witnessed.

The tourists have watched 10 dives in the space of an hour, starting with a boy of eight diving from two metres with a gentle push from one of the older jumpers, and ending with Asal’s jump from the top platform. Content with their whirlwind visit to Pentecost, they are soon whisked back to Lonorore Airport for their trip home (weather permitting).

The origin of land diving on Pentecost is uncer tain, but general consensus seems to point to a dispute between a pair of newlyweds who argued continually, so much so that finally the wife decide she’d had enough and climbed to the top of a nearby tree and threatened to jump off and kill herself. Feeling guilty about the way he had treated his new bride, the husband

T h e

L a n d

decided to join her, agreeing they should both jump together. They both jumped, but unbeknown to the husband the wife had tied vines to her ankles. She was saved by the vines as he fell to his death.

As the legend has it, the women of the island then started diving in her honour, but this was quickly stopped by the menfolk when the women’s grass skir ts ended up over their heads revealing too much to onlookers. So the men took over the role of land diving, while the women were banished from the dive site and only allowed to par ticipate in dancing on dive day.

As time went by the weekly jumps, which take place between March to

d i v e r s

O f

P e n T e c O s T

June when the vines are strong and supple, also became a celebration of the Yam har vest. They were also once considered a rite of passage for boys on the cusp of manhood.

Chief Tho is also the chief builder of the jump tower at the Lonorore site.

He overseas everything, choosing which trees to chop down to build the tower, which vines to use, the construction and, of course, the jumps.

He leads a group of 15 boys and men, ranging from eight years old to in excess of 60, and each carr ying a menacing machete, into the jungle.

Chief Eric Moltevalep, the eldest of the group, is comfor table wearing the

| 68 |

traditional nambas, while the younger men and boys are dressed in board shor ts like many men of their age in other par ts of the world. Jean-Claude Asal, 31, affectionately know as Van Damn to the younger men and boys, also dons the nambas but is continually teased by the group and soon resor ts to board shor ts too. He is obviously more comfor table on the day of the jumps when ever yone is wearing the traditional costume.

The trees and vines are brought down from the hillside to the jump site. Chief Tho carefully marks out nine pegs on the hillside where he wants holes to be dug for the construction,

Fly to destinations in Oceania and earn Skywards Miles when you fly with partners Jetstar or Korean Air. Jetstar offers flights between Australia and Fiji, while Korean Air flies to destinations in Oceania from Seoul. Learn more about earning Skywards Miles at emirates.com

and he sits down while the men and boys take it in turn to dig, their bodies perspiring in the sticky, humid jungle heat, not helped by the constant assault of the mosquitoes that have no problem penetrating the assor tment of tropical strength insect repellents.

Over several days the jump tower is assembled, the men returning each day from surrounding villages; some face a two-hour walk, others travel by boat.

They merrily sing and chant while the construction takes place, and all the time Chief Tho sits in the shade on the hillside overseeing the positioning of every pole and every vine lashing. No one ever questions his authority. Each day, when

Chief Tho feels the men have done enough, he calls a halt to proceedings and the men head back to their villages.

When the tower is completed the platforms are put in place.

With the arrival of tourists, the spor t of land diving has gone professional, and according to Chief Tho, there is no pressure on the young men to jump. What was once a rite of passage has now become a commercial spor t. The payment for jumping rises as the jump height increases, with divers who jump from the bottom level receiving VT500 (AUS$5.84) and those who jump from the ver y top receiving VT2,500 (AUS$ 29.20).

| 69 |

But the tribesmen don’t jump for personal gain; the money goes to a diver’s community. Chief Tho explains that jumping improves a diver’s standing among his peers. People look upon a diver as a hero not just for the feat of diving but also for his contribution to the community.

“We are proud of our customs and tradition,” explains Ben Sarnie, 34, also known as Chief Luismal. “We want this to go on forever and we want people to see this magical and mystical event.

It is a spor t now and we are happy to show our spor t to the tourists and to help keep the tradition alive and to help the communities.”

T h e

L a n d

d i v e r s

| 70 |

O f

P e n T e c O s T

NEWS UPDATE Shor tly before this issue went to press, Cyclone Pam hit the South Pacific nation of Vanuatu, which is made up of 83 islands, including Pentecost Island. One of the worst natural disasters in the nation’s history, the Category 5 tropical cyclone has affected 166,000 people, according to the United Nations (UN). A UN Disaster Assessment and Coordination team arrived in Vanuatu on March 16 and is working with the Government of Vanuatu to coordinate the humanitarian response. The UN estimates that around 65,000 have been left homeless, and the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organisation has also repor ted “extensive damage” to crops, livestock and fisheries, but the full extent of the crisis is not yet known due to a lack of communication and access to some of the islands. “We must suppor t the people and Government of Vanuatu as they continue to help the most vulnerable communities and star t to recover and rebuild,” the UN’s humanitarian coordinator for Vanuatu, Osnat Lubrani, told the United Nations News Centre.

“The United Nations and our par tners are ready to continue to help in this effor t.”

For more information, visit: un.org/apps/news

| 71 |

ON JUNE 17, 1990, EMIRATES BEGAN FLIGHTS TO THE PHILIPPINES. AND WITH THE UPCOMING 25TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE INAUGURAL FLIGHT HAPPILY COINCIDING WITH VISIT THE PHILIPPINES YEAR, IT COULDN’T BE A BETTER TIME TO MARVEL AT THIS FASCINATING COUNTRY WORDS: JAMIE KNIGHTS

A

visit from Pope Francis and the hosting of the Asia Pacific Economic Forum are drawing a welcome spotlight on the Philippines, but there is plenty more to celebrate, as Verna Buensuceso, Officer-In-Charge, Market Development Group, Philippines Department Of Tourism, explains.

“We have MTV coming over, numerous sporting events, Madrid Fusion Manila – the Philippines is a festival country and we also boast the longest Christmas

celebrations in the world,” she says.

A love of celebrations perfectly encapsulates the Philippines experience.

With an incredible line-up of events, celebrations and collaborations throughout the year, the current Department Of Tourism campaign with its ‘It’s more fun in the Philippines’ tagline couldn’t be closer to the truth.

The fun element comes from the people themselves. “It’s unique how real the Filipino people are,” says Buensuceso. “There are no | 72 |

pretensions, we invite you into our homes and that comes from the heart. When we smile and we laugh it’s authentic, which contributes to the experience.”

It’s a genuine claim that rings true whether you are indulging in the incredible city metropolises, or exploring the rustic charm of the countryside spread across the country’s 7,107 islands.

Visitors to the Philippines will experience first-hand the country’s incredible cuisine.

Filipinos are notorious for their love of

T i m e

trying something new, and their food is no different, but one element is of particular note, and that is the use of sour ingredients.

“The Filipino use of souring agents is becoming a worldwide trend,” says Buensuceso. “We want our cuisine to be known globally, and not be one of our best kept secrets.”

A favourite dish that encapsulates the essence of Filipino cuisine for Buensuceso is kinilaw, similar to a ceviche in style, seafood such as fish, shrimp or squid are marinated and cooked in fruit vinegars, resulting in a very distinctive and refreshing taste.

The culinary highlight of the year will be Madrid Fusion Manila, which will run from April 24 to 26 at the SMX Convention Center. Having been held in Madrid since 2003, and boasting some of the world’s most celebrated chefs, it is the first time Madrid Fusion has been held in Asia.

“Madrid Fusion Manila is the new image of the Philippines, and we really want to establish ourselves as the centre of the culinary world,” says Buensuceso.

But it isn’t just the food that is finally getting the recognition it deserves.

Travellers to the Philippines will quickly discover an incredible array of activities and destinations that will have them returning time and again for a multitude of reasons.

Premium individual destinations are now being promoted, all with their own distinct sounds, smells and sights. The outcrop of Palawan, for instance, has recently been named as the best island in the world by readers of Conde Nast Readers Traveller Awards. Boracay is another island destination that is gaining recognition, having been named the 2015 Traveller’s Choice Awards’ best beach in Asia by TripAdvisor. It has fine white sandy beaches, but your feet won’t burn.

“Even at noon the sand never turns hot due to a low silica content,” says Buensuceso. “You can enjoy the beach and its palm trees under the tropical sun in complete comfort.”

Health and wellness, alongside MICE and medical tourism, is a focus as well as English as a second language (ESL),

T o

C e l e b r a T e

where people from all over the region are coming to Philippines to learn English.

Having joined the Asia Cruise Fund, the country is also looking to ensure major cruise operators will be including the Philippines in their cruise routes.

But aside from the ‘bigger picture’ developments, what can a traveller do to ensure an authentic Filipino experience?

Being a tropical destination the beaches and waterways are a must for Buensuceso. “You also need to experience a festival, as they are truly a reflection of our culture and the fun nature of the Filipino,” she says. “We are some of the best singers in the world as well, [and there are] karaoke bars everywhere.”

When it comes to new, upcoming destinations, Buensuceso recommends Bicol in the southern part of Luzon.

“It offers the perfect adventure destination. In Albay, you have the magnificent Mt. Mayon, a perfect cone shaped volcano,” she says. “It’s really beautiful and you can go do a lava vein trek or ride ATVs.” Donsol is another destination with a unique offering. “From October to May you have whale sharks swimming in the bay because of the abundance of plankton,” says Buensuceso. “There is a whale shark interaction programme where people can swim with the whale sharks and, for those who are fitter, you have one of the biggest kite boarding areas in the world that hosts international competitions.”

And it is this sense of adventure and fun that people who have been to Philippines take away with them.

“It is a must experience destination, you don’t observe things from afar you are part of the experience - this is how you remember it, an experience-filled vacation,” Buensuceso says.

Since its first flight from Dubai to Manila in 1990, Emirates airline has transported more than 6.9 million overseas foreign workers (OFWs), international tourists and business travellers to and from the UAE and Philippines. More than 165,000 tonnes of cargo has also been transported between the two countries. With these numbers expected to grow over the next five years,

Buensuceso says the ser vice is “ver y impor tant”.

“The more flights we have the more opportunities our Filipino expatriates have to spend time with their families,” she adds.

“From a tourism perspective it is also very important as Emirates has a very wide network of flights connecting Philippines to key cities in the world, especially in Europe which is very important to us.”

Emirates currently operates two flights daily, seven days a week to Philippines.

Flight EK333 depar ts NAIA Terminal 3 at 5.35pm and arrives in Dubai at 10.55pm and flight EK335 depar ts at 0.20am and arrives in Dubai at 5.25am. Flights from Dubai to Manila are EK332 and EK334, the first depar ting Dubai International Airpor t at 3.55am and arrives in Manila at 4pm and the second depar ting at 10.30am and arriving at 10.30pm.

Between 1990 and February 2015, Emirates carried 6.9 million passengers and 165,000 tonnes of cargo on its Dubai-Manila route.

| 73 |

b r i e f i n g Blockbusters On Board, p76 | Destination: Perth, p82 | Route Map, p90

E m i r a t E s

n E w s

bLocKbusters on board Q&A Liam Neeson Action thriller Taken 3 comes to ice this month. We spoke to star Liam Neeson at the premiere of the film in Dubai It’s your first visit to Dubai.

What do you think?

The enormous labour that it’s taken to build landmarks like The Palm, I mean, it says something about man’s ingenuity, doesn’t it? Being able to tame nature like this. It’s amazing what you can do, how you can create this Shangri La.

This April, ice Digital Widescreen is bringing a wealth of entertainment in more than 35 languages to passengers.

The Hobbit: The Battle Of The Five Armies is making its debut on board, and to celebrate, all of The Lord Of The Rings and The Hobbit movies are also showing.

Blockbusters Taken 3, Selma, Birdman, Into The Woods, The Theory Of Everything and Boyhood are just some of the other award-winning films available this month.

Passengers can enjoy more than 2,000 channels of entertainment, with more than 500 movies from around the world, hundreds of hours of TV, including box sets of popular shows like Mad Men, The

Walking Dead and Downton Abbey. ice Digital Widescreen features films in more than 10 European languages and more than 10 languages from South Asia. There are more than 50 films in Hindi available, including new Bollywood blockbusters, as well as films in Tamil, Malayalam, Marathi, Urdu, Telugu, Bengali and more. ice also offers films in Mandarin, Cantonese, Japanese, Korean, Malay, Indonesian and Tagalog. Arabicspeaking travellers have a wide choice of movies, TV and music. The latest languages added to ice include films in the Pashto language, as well as Igbo – a language spoken in southeastern Nigeria.

Increased capacIty for naIrobI route Emirates is increasing its capacity to Kenya’s capital Nairobi by switching from the current Airbus A330200 aircraft used on one of the two daily services to a larger Boeing 777-300ER from May 1.

This change will boost capacity on the route by 1,638 seats per week, and make Nairobi an all-Boeing 777 operation.

The Emirates Boeing 777-300ER will offer 354 seats in a three-class configuration, with eight private suites in First Class, 42 lie-flat seats in Business Class and 304 spacious seats in Economy Class.

The larger aircraft also provides a total of 77 tonnes of additional cargo capacity per week on the route, further facilitating trade opportunities between Kenya and Emirates’ extensive global route network. | 76 |

You flew Emirates First Class to Dubai. How was the experience?

It’s a superb airline, no doubt about it.

Going through the airport in Dubai was incredible. Just a work of art.

Your filmography ranges from Shindler’s List and Michael Collins to Love Actually and The A-Team. How do you choose which movies to do?

I love writers, and it’s the quality of the writing that attracts me first to movie, and the storyline of course. I think I’ve got a couple of years left in me to do action films; there’s two or three in the pipeline that may happen.

What was it about the Taken franchise that attracted you to taking on the part?

The first one was certainly the physicality of it. I was 54 years old and I thought I wouldn’t be offered something like this again. I really liked the simple storyline, so when I was at the Shanghai film festival I got chatting to the producer Luc Besson and told him I really liked the script. I said, “I’m sure you’re looking for someone younger, but I keep really fit so don’t worry about that.”

Taken 3 will launch on Emirates’ ice inflight entertainment system in April.

Why should people watch it?

It’s pure entertainment, that’s for sure.

You’ll finish the movie feeling satiated.

E m i r a t E s

n E w s

emirates lounge opens in la Staff Q&A Subbarao Yamana Licensed Aircraft Engineer What is your job?

Emirates has opened its latest lounge at the Tom Bradley International Terminal at Los Angeles International Airport (LAX). It is the 37th dedicated Emirates Lounge, and the opening comes 11 years after the first lounge outside Dubai opened in 2004. To date more than 22 million customers have visited an Emirates Lounge, which are exclusively for First Class and Business Class customers and Emirates Skywards Platinum and Gold members.

Guests can enjoy an open buffet as well as a complimentar y full-bar ser vice.

Other services include a fully equipped business centre, complimentar y Wi-Fi throughout the lounge, dedicated TV

and reading areas, shower facilities and a prayer room.

The Emirates premium experience also includes exclusive chauffeur-drive service and dedicated airport check-in counters.

LA joins the extensive list of global dedicated lounges, which can be found at Auckland, Bangkok, Beijing, Birmingham, Brisbane, Colombo, Delhi, Dubai, Dusseldorf, Frankfur t, Glasgow, Hamburg, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Johannesburg, Kuala Lumpur, London Gatwick, London Heathrow, Manchester, Melbourne, Milan, Munich, New York - JFK, Paris - Charles de Gaulle, Per th, Rome, San Francisco, Shanghai, Singapore, Sydney and Zurich.

Daily service to Bali Emirates is set to launch a daily service to the island of Bali in Indonesia. Launching June 3, it will be Emirates’ 148th global destination.

The non-stop service between Dubai and Bali will be operated by a Boeing 777-300ER aircraft in a two-class configuration.

The flight will depart Dubai as EK398 at 8.20am and arrive at Bali’s Denpasar International Airport at 9.40pm the same day. The return flight, EK399, will depart at 11.40pm and arrive at Dubai International Airport at 5am the following day.

Passengers on all Emirates flights have a generous baggage allowance with 30kg for those travelling in Economy Class and 40kg for Business Class and First Class passengers.

get to your gate on time

I work on the Airbus A380 and Boeing 777 First Class Private Suites. Each seat has 10 actuators [motors] that operate seat tracking, seat recline, armrest, seat pan, headrest, leg rest, foot rest, privacy screen, mini-bar lid and centre partition. These private suite actuators are calibrated with a laptop using special software, and connected to the seat.

What do you check during an inspection?

We carry out detailed inspections on the seats during every C-Check, rectify defects, and ensure the seats are 100 per cent functional and in a pristine condition when released back to service. We also check all the different decorative coverings, such as wood grain panels on the sliding doors, suede covering on the centre partition, platinum fabric on the wardrobe assembly, and leather on the vanity tables.

1,574 Number of First Class Suites in the Emirates Fleet

Don't miss your flight Please make sure you get to your boarding gate on time.

Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.

| 78 |

Your home in Dubai

• • • • • • • •

Located in the heart of Dubai Opposite Metro Station Walking distance to Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest skyscraper Dubai Airport - 15 min Abu Dhabi Airport - 45 min Walking distance to shopping malls Close to Business Hubs (DIFC and DWTC) Spa and Outdoor Swimming Pool

Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957 Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

I n s I d e

e m I r a t e s

meet tHe cabin crew The Emirates cabin crew uniforms have become symbols of excellence.

Whether supporting the ceremonies at major sporting tournaments such as the FIFA World Cup, or looking after passengers on board one of Emirates’ flights, the staff who don these uniforms are fully aware of all that they embody Words: jamie Knights

Inspired by the desert, the distinctive emirates cabin crew uniform is now worn by more than 20,000 emirates staff who travel the globe ensuring the very best in customer service. But few of the first staff to wear the uniform in 1985 could have ever imagined how iconic it would become.

While the clothes are easily recognised by anybody who has flown Emirates, it is the dedicated staff wearing them that have helped the company become a leader in passenger aviation. These men and women from more than 135 countries, speaking more than 55 languages between them, have been at the forefront of the revolution in inflight service, safety and enter tainment.

Now, as an international brand, Emirates is the first choice for those looking at a career in the skies, but it wasn’t always so.

Purser Karyn McCreath, who joined the company in December 1993, had been working as ground staff at

Glasgow Airpor t, but the lure of the skies was too great to stay grounded.

“I saw an adver t by Emirates looking for cabin crew and applied,” she recalls. “Nobody knew much about Dubai, I didn’t even know where it was, but the chance to travel to new places all year round, sunshine and a tax free salary was an added bonus.”

Joe Balech, Aircrew Security Training for Emirates, who joined the airline in 1995, says it was all about being “in the right place” at the right time.

“People star ted hearing about this young company Emirates and the city of Dubai, and I wanted to be where I could see the world and look forward to the future,” he says.

For both Karyn and Joe, the first experience of the company was the training, an aspect of the job that has probably changed most over the last 30 years.

| 80 |

I n s I d e

e m I r a t e s

“Training was good for that period of time, theoretical more than practical, obviously, as there were no simulators, but it was a lot of fun,” says Joe. Karyn says she could “never have imagined aircraft simulators back then”, adding that she was par ticularly pleased to be staying in a ser viced apar tment with a swimming pool and transpor t to and from work, all benefits Emirates staff still enjoy.

The risk of joining a relatively new company paid off, and Joe knew he had made the right decision when Emirates “star ted shining by winning international rewards”.

But for Scottish Karyn, the time she felt most proud of working for Emirates was closer to home.

“I was working on the inaugural flight to Dubai from Scotland and there was such a great buzz,” she explains.

“The direct link was huge and I was proud as everyone was talking about it.”

Of course, one of the major perks of being par t of the flight crew experience is the oppor tunity to travel the world.

And with Emirates connecting to more than 140 destinations, choosing a favourite is never easy.

Karyn says she enjoys flying to Australia and America, adding that she is excited about Emirates launching its Bali route on June 3.

New routes have indeed been par t of the many highlights for the carrier, alongside groundbreaking aircraft and major sponsorships, but the staff all have their favourite moments.

Karyn’s was looking after her boss, His Highness Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman And Chief Executive Emirates Airline & Group, on board an Emirates flight.

“He was very down to ear th and it was so nice to meet him,” she says. “Meeting people you wouldn’t normally is always a highlight.”

Emirates is, of course renowned for its customer service and is leading the way in cabin enter tainment and facilities. The accolades speak for themselves, but the effor t that goes on behind the scenes to ensure such acclaim is impressive.

“I think Emirates knows how and when to invest in the market,” says Joe. “Dubai connecting the east and west is key to success, but more impor tant is the cosmopolitan touch that makes the airline so special in dealing with customers and their expectations.”

“We are always striving for the latest technology,” says Karyn. “On the A380 we have the lounge, which again provides those who like to try different things with a great product.

We have a fantastic product team that strives to make the experience on a specific route just right.”

Emirates has evolved significantly in its relatively shor t history, but for Karyn the biggest change has been the company HQ, which now boasts briefing areas, a medical centre for staff as well as shops. Emirates even has an airpor t solely for crew.

“You see all the crews arriving and depar ting and then the offices – it’s like a whole village,” she says. “[Back when I star ted] we had about 25 aircraft (A310/A300 Airbus) and we thought at that time that we had the best fleet,

which we did relatively, until we star ted receiving the A340 and then we thought that this is it!” says Joe. “Looking at it today makes you laugh, but I’m cer tainly proud of all these changes and that is what Emirates is all about, keeping its focus on the future and how to change it to the best possible way.”

Long serving crewmembers have also seen Dubai transform alongside the carrier. Rapid expansion meant every time they returned from a flight a new building would appear on the city’s ever-changing skyline.

“I remember we used to live on Sheikh Zayed Road where about 10 buildings in total existed,” says Joe. “Suddenly buildings star ted appearing left and right but the growth of the city was directly related to the growth of the airline, which makes perfect sense. The master plan for Dubai was created with an extremely clear vision and professionalism.”

Karyn, despite lamenting seeing fewer camels in the city, says she is also glad to have witnessed Dubai transform into a city regarded amongst the best in the world. So after more than two decades with the company, would Karyn recommend Emirates to someone considering joining?

“Definitely do it,” she says. “It is a great experience, you meet some very interesting people and make friends for life.”

Indeed it’s not just friends, but family, with one long-serving cabin crew member, Sue Abdul, proudly watching her son, Karim Hollosi, graduate to become a member of the team last year. With a second generation of cabin crew embarking on their career with Emirates, the future for the company, the staff and passengers looks brighter than ever.

| 81 |

D E e sm t i i rn aa tt Ei o s n n GE uwi D s e

| 82 |

D E S T I N A T I O N

PERTH Emirates first A380 service to Western Australia launches next month on May 1. Enjoy our guide to the city There’s a bit of a Wild West feel to Perth, a city of nearly two million inhabitants that’s about as far away from the rest of the world as you can get. The capital of Western Australia sits on the ocean, a five- or six-hour flight away from Sydney, Melbourne, and the rest of the continent’s biggest cities. The distance has allowed Perth to develop in its own unique ways.

The city, which dates to the 1820s, has smart cafes, beautiful beachside restaurants, a vibrant ocean scene, and many other

amenities that you’d expect from a metropolis its size.

Like Melbourne and Sydney, Perth is consistently ranked as one of the world’s most liveable cities, and it’s a pleasure to visit as well.

While it might not have the sheer number of high-quality hotels, restaurants and lounges found in the larger Australian capitals, there is more than enough to keep you busy for the duration of your stay. And you could be happy hitting up the many and varied beaches for an entire month or more.

EAT

STAY

DO

SWALLOW BAR Former Melbourne dwellers Meredith Bastian and Zoe Roy bring the experience they gained in the east to this cosy restaurant.

The decor is nostalgic – think ancient cars, railway booths and vinyl records. Make sure to visit the open-air backyard to mingle on sunny days, and check their schedule for live music performances. swallowbar.com.au

THE RICHARDSON The Richardson is widely known as one of the very best hotels in Perth. You’ll have to dig deep (rates start at US$435), but the combination of beautiful rooms, celebrity sightings, and easy access to the city’s best shopping and entertainment makes it worth splashing out. therichardson.com.au

CAPPUCCINO STRIP The port of Fremantle sits on the south side of the city, and the cafes of the Cappuccino Strip (Wray Avenue) are the best place to grab a brew (or three). It’s just a short walk from Perth’s famous Fremantle Markets, so it’s great for taking a breather after browsing the 150 outdoor shops and stalls.

MISS MAUD SWEDISH HOTEL A boutique hotel that’s a five-minute walk from Perth city centre and offers guests a complimentary Smörgåsbord Breakfast from the restaurant downstairs every morning? Sign us up. The rooms are small and on the older side, but tidy, clean, and completely acceptable. missmaud.com.au

HEAD TO THE BEACH Don’t visit Western Australia without hitting the beach. Perth has some of the best white sand beaches in the country – 19, to be exact. Cottlesloe is a particularly good pick, and there are a few others to explore less than half a day’s drive from the city centre.

PRINT HALL Old-school service meets modern Australian cuisine and hospitality at Print Hall. The restaurant, like the surrounding neighbourhood, is formal without being stuffy, just like Perth itself. After dinner, walk off your meal with a relaxed stroll around nearby Kings Park and Botanic Garden. printhall.com.au HALO RESTAURANT Sit over the Swan River, dining on the freshest seafood at one of Perth’s finest restaurants. The service is refined but unobtrusive, with the staff boasting a wealth of local knowledge about the food they are serving and the surroundings you’re seeing. halorestaurant.com.au

DUXTON HOTEL PERTH The five-star hotel in the centre of Perth provides a platform from which you can launch yourself out on a quest to see the sites. The modern rooms (from AUD$180) are expertly decorated and look out over the nearby Swan River. perth.duxtonhotels.com

AVIATION HERITAGE MUSEUM Check out more than 30 historical airplanes collected and curated by the Royal Australian Air Force Association. The collection’s gems range from an Auster J5B to the Wirraway CA-5, and every type of flying machine in between. Watch as history flies before your very eyes. raafawa.org.au/museum

EMIRATES STAFF TIPS: ROTTNEST ISLAND “Rottnest Island is great for sightseeing.

Enjoy a bike ride up to the lighthouse. There’s some great fishing and diving spots, or you can just relax on one of the island’s many beaches.

This place is also perfect for a family getaway.”

Darren Tyrrell Regional Manager, Western Australia

LALLA ROOKH “There’s no escaping the influence of Western Australia’s rich Italian heritage, and one of the best places to enjoy this is Lalla Rookh in the city centre.”

Marc Shedden Cargo Manager

Emirates’ Perth A380 service will operate daily as EK420 departing Dubai at 0255hrs and arriving at Perth International Airport at 1735hrs the same day.

The return flight, EK421, will depart Perth at 2210hrs and arrives in Dubai the following day at 0525hrs.

| 83 |

C O M F O R T

WELLNESS IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips.

Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

WEAR GLASSES

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight.

Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT

USE SKIN MOISTURISER Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

KEEP MOVING Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles.

This encourages blood flow.

DURING THE FLIGHT

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in.

Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

| 84 |

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

V i s a s ,

q u i c k

c o n n e c t

Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr programmE. | 86 |

&

q u a r a n t i n e

i n f o r m a t i o n

Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow theSe StePS:

1

2

3

4

have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock the counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 87 |

U A E

S M A R T

G A T E

BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can scan your UAE Emirates ID card. If you have an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot

OK!

3

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan.

When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. | 88 |

• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • UAE Emirates ID cards • E-Gate cards

• • • • • • • •

Contract Drafting & Review Business Setup , Offshore & Free Zone Companies Corporate & Commercial Legal Services Litigation & Arbitration Debt Collection Banking, Insurance & Maritime Cases Real Estate, Construction & Labor Cases Trademarks, Patents & Copyrights

‫ﺻﻴﺎﻏﺔ ﺍﻟﻌﻘﻮﺩ ﻭﻣﺮﺍﺟﻌﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺗﺄﺳﻴﺲ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ ﻭﺍﻷﻭﻓﺸﻮﺭ ﻭﺍﳌﻨﺎﻃﻖ ﺍﳊﺮﺓ‬ ‫ﺍﳋﺪﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﻘﺎﻧﻮﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻸﻓﺮﺍﺩ ﻭﺍﻟﺸﺮﻛﺎﺕ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺘﻘﺎﺿﻲ ﻭ ﺍﻟﺘﺤﻜﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﲢﺼﻴﻞ ﺍﻟﺪﻳﻮﻥ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﻨﻮﻙ ﻭﺍﻟﺘﺄﻣﲔ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﳌﻘﺎﻭﻻﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻌﻘﺎﺭﺍﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ ﺍﻟﻌﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﻌﻼﻣﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﺘﺠﺎﺭﻳﺔ ﻭﺑﺮﺍﺀﺍﺕ ﺍﻻﺧﺘﺮﺍﻉ ﻭﺣﻘﻮﻕ ﺍﳌﺆﻟﻒ‬

• • • • • • • •

DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 contact@emiratesadvocates.com | www.emiratesadvocates.com ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446 auh@emiratesadvocates.com

RAS AL KHAIMAH Tel: +971 7 2046719 rak@emiratesadvocates.com

DUBAI INTERNET CITY Tel: +971 4 3900820 dic@emiratesadvocates.com

SHARJAH Tel: +971 6 5728666 shj@emiratesadvocates.com

JEBEL ALI Tel: +971 4 8871679 jafz@emiratesadvocates.com

DIFC Tel: +971 4 4019562 difc@emiratesadvocates.com

WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN

FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99

R O U T E

| 90 |

M A P

R O U T E

M A P

NEW ROUTE: Bali: daily service starts June 3

| 91 |

R O U T E

| 92 |

M A P

INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE ON YOUR DOORSTEP MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES: • • • • • •

Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic

Welcare Hospital Dubai Mall Meadows Mirdif Beach Road Corniche

• Mediclinic City Hospital • Mediclinic Ibn Battuta • Mediclinic Arabian Ranches • Mediclinic Al Qusais • Mediclinic Al Sufouh • Mediclinic Al Hili

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. UAE • SOUTH AFRICA • NAMIBIA • SWITZERLAND www.mediclinic.ae

MOH RY82023-31-3-15 Ad approval covers facility in UAE only

R O U T E

| 94 |

M A P

THE FLEET Our fleet contains 235 aircraft made up of 221 passenger aircraft and 14 cargo aircraft BOEING 777-300ER

Emirates is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft, which joined the fleet in 2005.

Number of Aircraft: 104 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-300

Since 1999, Emirates operates two and three-class versions of the 777-300.

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777-200LR

Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-200

In 2005, the Boeing 777-200LR set a new world record for distance travelled non-stop when it landed at Heathrow airport, London, after a journey of 21,601km (11,664 nautical miles) from Hong Kong - the long way round. Emirates received its first 777-200LR in August 2007.

Emirates’ first Boeing 777-200 joined the fleet in 1996.

Number of Aircraft: 7 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777F

Number of Aircraft: 12 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet | 96 |

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparablysized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

AIRBUS A380-800

Emirates has operated the A380 since 2008, and is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft. In 2014, 13 Emirates A380s joined the fleet.

Number of Aircraft: 60 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

AIRBUS A340-500

This ultra-long range passenger airliner was introduced to the Emirates fleet in 2003. This saw the launch of the First Class Suite which has since been rolled out on the Boeing 777 and Airbus A380.

Number of Aircraft: 3 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

AIRBUS A340-300

Similar in many respects to Emirates A330-200s, the A340-300 is equipped with four engines giving it an enhanced range.

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

AIRBUS A330-200

First added to the fleet in 1999, this aircraft operates predominately on shorter-haul routes.

Number of Aircraft: 21 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

BOEING 747-400ERF

Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers through end April 2015 | 97 |

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

E n t E r t a i n m E n t

CAPTION COmPeTITION

E-mail your captions for this cartoon to openskies@motivate.ae with ‘CAPTION COMP’ in the subject line. The winning caption will be published in the May issue.

WINNeR: BRyAN COllINs, 56, ENgINEEr, NEW YOrK “Was it charles caleb colton Who said ‘imitation is the sincerest form of flattery’?”

| 98 |