Open Skies | April 2013

the rise and fall (and rise) of the new york cosmos

by

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editor@ openskiesmagazine. com

New York City is known for many things, but football (or soccer, as the Americans call it) is not one of them. Rewind 35 years, and the situation was very different – New York Cosmos had attracted the world’s greatest players and was playing to packed houses and adoring fans. Noah Davis looks at the rise and fall (and possible rise) of one of the most extraordinary football teams ever to kick a ball. We take a blissed-out photographic surf trip through southern Europe and visit one of Nairobi’s most vibrant streets. We give the mapped treatment to Prague, one of Europe’s most beautiful – and fun – cities, and find out about a Bangkok department store championing local designers. Closer to home, we find a slice of chilled-out paradise on Sri Lanka’s western coast. In Mumbai, conservation architect Abha Narain Lambah, gives us a tour of some of the city’s most interesting architecture.

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact The Editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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contents / APRIL 2013

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David Bowie in retrospective at A tour of the V&A Nairobi’s coolest area

Australian singersongwriter Sarah Blasko reveals her current top tracks

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A slice of laidback luxury on the Sri Lankan coast

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We explore the world of a Sharjah carpet seller

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Lahore’s most beautiful mosque

How Thai designers are fighting back

contents / APRIL 2013

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The Rise and Fall of the New York Cosmos

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A surf trip through Southern Europe

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How TV is killing the movie star

FRont (29) Bits Question/Grid Calendar The Street Skypod Room Consume

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Our Man BLD Mapped Local Knowledge Place Column Store

news (103)

MAIn (69) New York Cosmos The TV Revolution Surfing Southern Europe

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70 80 92

News Green Fleet

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© 2013 SWAROVSKI AG

SWAROVSKI.COM

contributors Michael hogan

Michael is a TV critic for the Daily Telegraph, has a weekly TV column on AskMen.com and writes for the Guardian, Observer, ShortList, Stylist, Q, Marie Claire, Glamour and Grazia. He started his career on Just Seventeen, before going on to edit Sky magazine and launch Zoo.

sarah blasko

An Australian singer-songwriter and musician, Sarah pursued a solo career after fronting the band Acquiesce until 2002. As authentic as it gets, she has gained a global following for her poetic lyrics and her amazing live performances.

Paddy sMith

Paddy Smith has been a journalist for 15 years, covering the technology beat since 2006. He is currently online editor for Stuff and lives in London surrounded by books and gadgets.

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noah davis

A freelance writer living in Brooklyn, Noah writes about everything from sport to science. He has been published everywhere from Sports Illustrated and the Wall Street Journal to New York magazine and GQ.com.

carlos hernandez

Carlos is a photographer based in Spain, who has alternated between advertising and editorial projects over the past seven years. His work is always diverse, and yet retains a personal touch.

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FRONT 36

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NAIROBI SRI LANKA SHARJAH

The lowdown on the Kenyan capital’s coolest street

Splendid isolation on the island’s idyllic west coast

A trip to one of the city’s most interesting stores

Centre Right We take a tour of Prague, one of Europe’s most most beautiful and tourist-friendly cities

(p52)

Bits

Welcoming The World The World Travel and Tourism council global summiT Will be held in abu dhabi This monTh

T

he 13th annual World Travel and Tourism council global summit will be held this year in abu dhabi. The summit – the most influential travel and tourism event of the year – will bring together nearly 1,000 industry leaders to tackle some of the most important issues facing the travel and tourism sector. The highlight of this year’s event is the global summit keynote address, which will be given by President bill clinton. he has a unique position – as the 42nd President of the united states, and the

founder of the William J. clinton Foundation – to talk about the role travel and tourism play in 2013. more than 40 other leading public speakers will be in attendance at the summit, including sir david Frost, british journalist and media personality, ian goldin, university of oxford Professor of globalisation and development, and daryl hannah, american actress and environmental campaigner. david scowsill, President & ceo WTTc, said: “The 2013 WTTc global summit will explore the implications of our dramatically

Bill Clinton

Sir David Frost

The 42nd President of the United States, and the founder of the William J. Clinton Foundation, President Clinton has been extremely active since the end of his presidency. The Clinton Global Initiative (CGI), begun by the Clinton Foundation in 2005, focuses on issues such as global public health, poverty alleviation and religious and ethnic conflict. He has also worked as a special envoy to Haiti, in a bid to help reconstruct the country, and has written a number of books outlining his vision of a globalised world.

Sir David Frost is one of the most respected broadcasters in the world. He has interviewed everyone from President Richard Nixon and Benazir Bhutto to Muhammad Ali and Tennessee Williams. He has had long-running shows on both the BBC and ITV, as well as Frost Over the World on Al Jazeera English, a station which he joined in 2006. He is the only person to have interviewed eight British Prime Ministers and seven US Presidents, and was the last person to interview the Shah of Iran.

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Open skies / april 2013

changing world economy and growing population on the travel and tourism industry. Four months after the world celebrated its one billionth international traveller, it will examine what we need to do collectively to prepare for the next billion.” The travel and tourism industry is one of the largest in the world, generating 9 per cent of world gdP and supporting 255 million jobs around the world. The WTTc works to generate awareness of the role the industry plays, and to engage with the public and private sectors. www.wttc.org

Daryl Hannah Daryl Hannah is one of the most successful actors of her generation, having starred in films such as Wall Street, Blade Runner, Roxanne and Kill Bill. She is known more recently for her work as an environmental and social activist and is a member of the World Future Council. She has campaigned extensively on green issues and her home runs on solar power and is built with green materials. She will bring her wealth of grass-roots activism around the world to the Summit.

CLOCKWISE: A yOUNG EMIR STUDyING/OSMAN HAMDy BEy, EqUESTRIAN PORTRAIT OF MAHARAO SHEODAN SINGH OF ALWAR, THE GyPSy/ ÉDOUARD MANET, PORTRAIT OF A LADy/PABLO PICASSO

THe BuilDing oF a muSeum

With the completion of the Louvre Abu Dhabi several years away, this month’s Birth of a Museum exhibition offers a sneak peek into the growing collection. Project manager Hissa Al Dhahri gives some insight into the show What is the purpose of the exhibition?

The birth of a museum exhibition is part of the lead-up to the opening of the louvre abu dhabi – a chance for people to get an early look at the museum’s collection before it officially opens in 2015. The exhibition will showcase a large portion of the art works that have been acquired specifically for the louvre abu dhabi.

How many pieces will be on display? around 130 pieces will be displayed at the exhibition, but the museum’s permanent collection will continue to be added to. are there any masterpieces? i would say that all our pieces are masterpieces, but yes, there will be works from some very big names including bellini’s 15th century painting virgin and child, the 1843 Joseph-Philibert girault de Prangey picture ayoucha – showing a veiled woman – and mondrian’s composition with blue, red, Yellow and black from 1922. among that we will also be exhibiting Pablo Picasso’s Portrait of a lady – a piece that has never been publically exhibited before.

museums tend to either focus on a specific type of art or on private collections, are either true for the louvre abu Dhabi? no, they are not. The permanent collection is being built on a narrative, with the idea to examine the development of different cultures and religions over time. There will be art works ranging from antiquity to contemporary times with an important emphasis on the links between cultures.

Within exhibition, and more so in the final museum, the art works will be displayed in a way that will allow people to notice different connections between civilisations – emphasising similar themes.

The exhibition runs from April 22nd to July 20th. saadiyatculturaldistrict.ae

Will 3-D printing usher in a new era of innovation, or is it much ado about nothing? page 62 31

Open skies / april 2013

3-D Future?

the question

wHAT wouLD HAppen If ALL THe oxygen In THe worD DIsAppeAreD for fIve seConDs? This is not something that is ever going to happen – and just as well, as the results would be disastrous, even for such a short amount of time.

Firstly, everyone’s inner ear would explode, as around 21 per cent of air pressure would be lost in an instant, the equivalent to being teleported 2000m above sea level. Things would get worse if you happened to be indoors, as every building made out of concrete would turn to dust. This is because oxygen is a binder in concrete structures, so they would lose rigidity if oxygen disappeared. Being outside would not be great either, given that the ozone layer would

disappear (it is made out of molecular oxygen), and without it blocking the majority of UV light, we would all get very burned.

And that’s not all – the oceans would evaporate and ‘bleed’ into space, as water is one-third oxygen; without oxygen, the hydrogen would become an unbound free gas and slowly bleed through the troposphere through atmospheric escape. A less catastrophic effect would see all pieces of untreated metal instantly spot-welding to each other. The reason metals don’t weld on contact is that they are coated in a layer of oxidation – without oxygen, this coating would disappear. In short, nothing good would happen.

the grid Ahead of the 2015 opening of the Louvre Abu Dhabi, Birth of a Museum offers the chance to see more than 130 pieces which will be part of the museum’s permanent exhibition. This runs from April 22nd to July 20th. saadiyatculturaldistrict.ae

Byky has launched a bicycle hire system in Dubai Marina and Downtown Dubai. While not cheap ($4 for 30 minutes), it’s a refreshing way to see parts of the city before the weather heats up. bykystations.com

The Happy Mondays were the epitome of the ‘Madchester’ scene that dominated the UK music charts during the late 1980s and early 1990s. While not as talented as some of their contemporaries, their stage presence is still second to none. They are playing Dubai Tennis Stadium on April 26th. happymondaysonline.com

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The gateway to the northern Philippines, Clark International Airport is the second destination Emirates flies to after Manila. Famous for its proximity to Mt. Pinatubo and its natural beauty, the area is sure to attract both tourists and locals returning home. emirates.com

APril

CALENDAR

April 17 to 28

tribeCA Film FestivAl

During awards season, it’s not uncommon to hear actors talk about wanting to ‘give back’ to the industry – but there are few who actually do.

Robert De Niro breaks the mould.

Wanting to help support growth and culture in manhattan, De Niro, helped set up the Tribeca film festival in 2002 – an independent festival, which is now considered to be one of the world’s best. This year, for the first time, the films from the festival will be streamed online at the same time as they are shown at the event.

TRibecAfiLm.com

April 11 to 17

Until August

Bowie Retrospective There are a select few who can legitimately claim to have led a life that alters culture and art – and although he’d never admit to it himself, David Bowie is one of those select few. From this month, London’s V&A museum has been given unprecedented access to curate the first international retrospective of Bowie’s extraordinary career. It features a collection of more than 300 pieces, including photographs, handwritten lyrics, original costumes, videos, and Bowie’s own instruments. vAm.Ac.Uk

Gulf Film Fest Spurred on by regional events and the Middle East’s growing global appeal, filmmaking in the Gulf is steadily growing in importance. Now in its sixth year, the Dubai-based Gulf Film Festival will be screening and celebrating the best of Arab cinema – helping to shift the spotlight on to regional filmmakers and storytellers. gULffiLmfesT.com

April 5 to 6

ComiC Con middle eAst Like a beacon for the region’s fanboys, geeks, and trekkies, comic con returns to Dubai, fronted by a hoard of popculture celebrities, graphic artists, film screenings and even the odd professional fancy-dressers. mefcc.com

Place

Pakistani Treasure page 61 34

Open skies / april 2013

the street

Westlands

Nairobi is a shopping mall hub so you have hit the jackpot if you happen to stumble down Woodvale Grove, home to some of the city’s most popular nightspots. This first means picking your way past the street-side hawkers selling t-shirts, puppies and second-hand car parts whilst negotiating the crowded sidewalks bustling with Kenyans on the move. This is the heart of Westlands, after all, where luxury hotels and the most happening clubs and bars rub shoulders with towering business blocks and the traditional Jua kali workshops. Words by Victoria Averill / Images by Pete Muller

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Havana

Kenyans and expats can’t seem to get enough of this Latin-inspired bar, which arguably serves up one of the city’s best mojitos. In true Latin style, the tables spill out onto the pavements and the bar stays open late. Havana also plays host to Nairobi’s burgeoning clique of DJs, who hit the decks each week on Thursdays and Fridays. havana.co.ke 37 Woodvale Grove Tel: +254 (0) 723605842

The Crooked Q

Perch at the bar with your Tusker or get involved in some serious pool-hustling at this late-night hangout just above Havana.

The music may be old-school Kenyan, and the décor, at best, vintage, but there’s nothing like shooting a few games of pool in the wee morning hours. Be prepared for some stiff competition from the locals.

Artcaffe

The Artcaffe group has revolutionised the way Nairobians eat. This Westgate brasserie, with its slick décor of exposed brickwork and industrial-style lighting, was the first to open its doors and has set the bar high, serving quality pizzas, patisserie and, with its in-house roasters, the best coffee in Nairobi. artcaffe.co.ke Westgate Shopping Mall, Westgate Tel: +254 (0) 20 3741197

37 Woodvale Grove Tel: +254 (0) 721208843

Rezorus and Black Diamond

Looking for an after-party? Rezorus and Black Diamond – two clubs on opposite sides of the street – typically vie for the late-night crowd.

In Rezorus, with its tiny dance floor and two packed bars, there is little to do but join the ranks of Kenyans jostling and grinding to house, reggae and R&B. Meanwhile, across the road, it’s the spacious outdoor terrace and dance floor that lure in late-night revellers to Black Diamond. You might be in the centre of the city, but you’re still dancing under the African stars.

Mpaka Road, Tel: +254 (0) 722813136 (Rezorus); +254 (0) 724592356 (Black Diamond)

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Le Rustique

This German-run café, with an outdoor terrace and quirky garden dotted with intriguing wrought iron animal sculptures, is an oasis amidst the choked roads and chaos of Westlands. Head here for the extensive brunch menu including delicious savoury crepes and eggs Benedict. The kitchen is open throughout the day so you can afford to sit back and while away a few hours. lerustique.co.ke General Mathenge Drive Tel: +254 (0) 721609601

Sankara

You can’t escape the Sankara’s presence in Westlands, both in terms of its outright decadence – the hotel houses four restaurants, a luxury spa, rooftop bar and swimming pool – and its physical appearance: eight floors of sandcoloured concrete and glass flanked by towering palm trees. The Sankara is the antithesis of a discrete boutique hotel experience. But if it’s luxury you’re after, you’ll find it here in spades.

Kitengela Glass Shop

The Croze family and its recycled-glass-works is an institution in Nairobi. Nani Croze, famed for her unorthodox stained glass windows, murals and zany buildings, passed her love of glass to her son Anselm, who runs a glass-blowing workshop on the outskirts of the city. An eclectic display of their glasses, vases, mosaic-framed mirrors and stained glass objects can be found in this treasure-trove of a shop in Le Rustique’s gardens.

sankara.com Woodvale Grove Tel: +254 (0) 20 4208000

kitengela-glass.com General Mathenge Drive (within Le Rustique) Tel: +254 (0) 734287887

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SKYPOD

Australian singer-songwriter Sarah Blasko reveals her favourite tracks

1.

David Byrne & St Vincent I Should Watch TV From last year’s wonderful collaboration, Love This Giant. There are brass arrangements over the entire album, and it really sets it apart as something fresh. “It’s good to die/And it’s good to be alive…” is the sort of simple line I adore David Byrne for.

2.

3.

4.

The Knife Pass This On

Kirin J Callinan Way To War

Lianne La Havas Forget

I’m looking forward to hearing their new album, Shaking The Habitual, but until then I’m listening to all their older music, like this track from Deep Cuts.

I recently got him in for some recording I did for the Sydney Dance Company, which was a real pleasure. He also plays in The Dreamlanders, and I think he’s unique, a mad genius behind an array of guitar pedals.

I caught onto her music quite early on, via a friend. This song’s probably my favourite from her album Is Your Love Big Enough? Voices like hers don’t come around very often.

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5.

Tame Impala Feels Like We Only Go Backwards APrIL

Kevin Parker’s music channels John Lennon, but he does it with integrity, and the production is fantastic.

The bass in this song does something wonderful to my head.

6.

Bat For Lashes Laura I’m enjoying the relative simplicity of her new album, The Haunted Man. She’s stripped things back a bit from the previous records.

7.

Jack Ladder & The Dreamlanders Dumb Love This is a seething, bitter account of love that rings uncomfortably true. It’s wonderful to see him continue to write great songs and not be afraid to take chances.

CALENDAR

April 13

Re-opening of the Rijksmuseum One of the world’s great museums – Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum – will reopen this month after nearly a decade of renovation. The museum famous for being home to over 8,000 artworks, including Rembrandt’s masterpiece The Night Watch, suffered continual setbacks after closing its doors in 2003 for the widescale restoration of Pierre Cuypers’ original building.

Alongside The Night Watch, the museum also houses several other pieces by The Netherland’s favourite son, Rembrandt, as well as works from other artists of the Golden Age of Dutch painting including Johannes Vermeer and Frans Hais.

As if making up for lost time, the reopening will see the Rijksmuseum become the first national museum to stay open every day of the year. www.rijksmuseum.nl

european Charm

Prague

page 52

8.

The XX Angels Coexist is a really beautiful, honest album, this song particularly so. I love the intimacy of their music but with all these intriguing, distant sounds.

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the Room

www.TheFraNgipaNiTree.com

room 0109

The FraNgipaNi Tree ThaLpe, sri LaNka

Splendid isolation is a term that could have been coined with The Frangipani Tree in mind. With only nine suites in three low-slung villas, there is an almost horizontal vibe about The Frangipani Tree – a very Sri Lankan hideaway that nestles up against the Indian Ocean.

The food is excellent, with big, healthy breakfasts and a large menu of local and western food. The prawn curry is amazing, as is the icecold Lion Beer that washes it down. There is almost a homestay vibe about meal times; you get the same table each meal, and you need to tell staff what and when you want to eat before the sun goes down.

After dinner, most guests retreat to their villa, or slump onto their cushion-lined porches, watching the fireflies and listening to the Indian Ocean crash into the shore a few feet away. After a day or two, your brain will begin to shut down, and your body will adjust to the rhythm of eating, sleeping, and doing absolutely nothing. The colonial fort town of Galle is about 20 minutes north by tuk-tuk, but some will never leave The Frangipani Tree, and it’s hard to blame them.

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consume

book

Rajinikanth: the Definitive BiogRaphy Naman Ramachandran Rajinikanth is nothing less than a living god to millions across the globe. He may not be as instantly recognisable in the West as Shah Rukh Khan (having starred mainly in Tamil, rather than Bollywood cinema), but in India, he has no equal. This is down to his charisma and his versatility (having starred in Tamil, Hindi, Telugu and Bengali films). Ramachandran’s book gets to grips with this behemoth (albeit over a whopping 336 pages), with a focus on the movies rather than his personal life. A must for his fans.

film

album

Django unchaineD What is there left to say about Quentin Tarantino? The quintessential film nerd is one of the finest directors of his generation – able to smear his slick and gratuitous filmmaking style across the broadest spectrum of genres. In Django Unchained, Tarantino turns his hand to making a Western, in a retelling of the story of a slave turned bounty hunter, Django. The film is a triumph – lathered with Tarantino’s trademark violence and sharp dialogue. But don’t take our word for it – it’s available all month on ICE.

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Mosquito Yeah Yeah Yeahs A decade ago, amid a torrent of hipster bands springing up across New York, few people would’ve thought that the plucky lo-fi postpunk trio, the Yeah Yeah Yeahs would’ve survived the flood, let alone have gone on to release three critically acclaimed albums. After a four-year hiatus, the band is back with Mosquito, its most intriguing album to date. “So much feeling went into this record, it was the rope ladder thrown down into the ditch for us to climb up and dust ourselves off,” says singer Karen O of the band’s fourth studio album.

our man in

Reconstructing the Past Conservation architect Abha Narain Lambah talks to Nergish Sunavala about her ongoing struggle to preserve Mumbai’s architectural heritage Potted history / Antiques and artefacts on sale in Chor Bazaar

I

n her office in Bandra, a suburb of Mumbai, architect Abha Narain Lambah sits in front of an enormous poster of the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, declared a UNESCO world heritage monument in 2004. With this Gothic Revival structure looming in the background, Lambah traces her interest in architecture back to childhood

picnics in Delhi. “My sister and I would take our dog, pack some sandwiches and just go to the Mehrauli ruins,” she recalled. “All our mystery games used to be around these monuments, and that led me to architecture.”

Convincing her family to let her follow her dream, however, wasn’t easy. They wanted her to join the Indian Civil Services, like her father, relenting only when she managed to gain admission to Delhi’s prestigious School of Planning and Architecture. “My grandfather was so disappointed,” recalled Lambah. “He finally said, ‘You know it is okay but had you joined the civil service there would

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have been architects sitting outside your office, waiting in a queue, now you will be one of the many on the bench.’”

Over the years, Lambah has had her fair share of waiting outside Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation offices and dealings with government apathy. In the late 1990s, she submitted heritage guidelines for Khotachiwadi, a quaint village with Portuguesestyle architecture in Mumbai. To date, the guidelines haven’t been implemented and the precinct is just as vulnerable to pressures from the construction lobby. “[Currently], some builder is building a 23-floor structure in

the heart of Khotachiwadi,” said Lambah, “on a road that is just three or four metres wide.”

Unfortunately, the government provides incentives to reconstruct a building from scratch but not to maintain the heritage façade, explains Lambah. In fact, many significant achievements of the conservation movement are not government initiatives but the result of hard work by citizens’ groups. After many years of lobbying by city architects, planners and concerned citizens, 633 structures and sites and 14 precincts were given heritage status. This was done in 1995 under the Heritage Regulations of Greater Bombay Act. The same year Lambah moved to Bombay after completing her master’s in architectural conservation.

“Bombay was this one city [in India] where they actually had acknowledged something like urban heritage,” said Lambah.

“But, there were not enough people who were qualified in conservation.”

So, Lambah quickly got to work, first as a consultant and then as director on the board of Bombay Collaborative, a group of likeminded architects. In 1998, she started her own firm and began working to conserve a stretch of heritage buildings along Dadabhai Naoroji Road in Fort.

Even today, more than a decade after starting the project, Lambah

heritAge / The General Post Office in 1880

is helping the Mumbai Metro of collapse. In 2009, for instance, authorities design appropriate she took on the city’s baroque-style stations for the heritage stretch.

Opera House only to find that the Besides DN Road, Lambah rusted steel girders resembled finely has worked to conserve a host of woven lace. “You could see through other iconic structures, including those steel girders,” says Lambah. the city’s General Post Office, “I went to five structural engineers built in the Indo-Saracenic style, to ask them if they would be the almost 200-yearold Town Hall and Mumbai University’s Convocation Hall, for which Lambah won a The antiques business is a multi-million UNESCO award in 2007.

Since the project had a dollar industry. Here are some stores strict one-year deadline, where you can hunt for your own fortune the team worked overtime to complete an array of 19th and Alfies Antique it. “My daughter, at that 20th century posters, Market time, was four years old antiquarian books, maps London’s favourite market and she pretty much and engravings. for antiques, vintage lived on that site… @DenizlerKitap fashion and 20th century running around the design. Four floors of university gardens,” Big daddy’s independent shops, plus a recalls Lambah. rooftop kitchen and terrace. Antiques In some cases, @AlfiesAntiques A fun, eclectic treasure Lambah has been called trove that sells out of in to resuscitate iconic olde good things its spacious LA and San buildings on the verge Acquiring 100-year-old Francisco warehouses

TWITTER PITCH

traditional and industrial architectural pieces for reuse – Olde Good Things is the shop that NYC and Californian designers and architects have used for years. @OldeGoodThings

denizler Kitabevi

MeetiNg PoiNt/ Mumbai’s Victoria Terminus

Istanbul’s Bookshop of the Seas is set in a magnificent 20th century building and houses

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– known for its vintage garden decor and tables made from salvaged wood. @BDantiques

Mallett Antiques

Established in 1865, the London-based Mallett is the oldest antique business in the world. It specialises in exceptional 18th and 19th century English and continental decorative art @MallettAntiques

In BomBay there has always Been an IntImate relatIonshIp Between Its cItIzens and Its hIstorIc BuIldIngs consultants on the project, and they would see the building and say, ‘No, it is too risky.’”

Lambah did eventually find an engineer brave enough to take on the project, and the Royal Opera House – “royal” because King George V inaugurated the building in 1911 – is currently being restored through funding from its owner, the former Maharaja of Gondal.

Thanks to her job, Lambah has unrestricted access to the city’s most beautiful buildings – her favourite ones being the under-renovation opera house, art deco theatres like Regal and Liberty Cinema, and British-era railway stations like Reay Road and Bandra.

“In Bombay there’s a very intimate relationship between citizens and historic buildings,” explains Lambah. “Almost every citizen was born in a historic

building… goes to school and college in a heritage building and catches a train to work [from] a historic railway station.”

Fortunately, her favourite haunts are easier to access.

There’s Tasting Room, an eaterycum-interior design store in a defunct mill, where peeling plaster and stained walls form the backdrop for the display of high-end furniture; Chor Bazaar, a dense cluster of shops in the heart of the city’s Muslim quarter, selling everything from a life-size marble lion to an auto rickshaw horn; and Mohammedali Road during Ramzan, a bustling Muslim neighbourhood, which comes alive after sunset with food stalls on every street corner.

Another must-see in Mumbai, according to Lambah, is the sacred Banganga Tank in

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Walkeshwar, which she describes as a stunning “contrast between tall skyscrapers and an amazing pool of serenity”. An oftrepeated Mumbai legend claims that three mythological characters from the Indian epic Ramayana – Rama, Sita and Lakshman – were wandering in the area during their exile from Ayodhya. Sita asked Lakshman to bring her some pure water for a religious ritual and so Lakshman shot an arrow into the ground bringing forth a tributary of the River Ganga – thus the name Banganga.

Whilst it’s important to protect an oasis of tranquility like Banganga in a bustling city like Mumbai, Lambah also acknowledges the need for development. Singapore is a good example of a city-state that has managed to preserve historic precincts like Chinatown without impinging on development in other areas. “You can’t freeze the city in time… but a smart city is one that manages to retain both [high rises and historic precincts],” says Lambah.

BLD Schønnemann Hauser Plads 16, 1127 Copenhagen Tel: +45 33120785 restaurantschonnemann.dk

anders selmer, Former Noma sommelier and owner of trendy Kødbyens Fiskebar, shares his favourite places to eat in Copenhagen L B

L

Lunch Head to Schønnemann. It’s a place where you have open sandwiches, or smørrebrød, on rye bread. To me, it makes the best open sandwiches in town. It invents things, everything is homemade and it’s really good quality. There are so many great sandwiches available. For your first trip, I’d go for the herring, but there are lots of different options.

B

Breakfast For breakfast, it has to be Café Europa 1989. The quality is high and the service is always good. It takes the best of breakfast from all over Europe. So you can get a little bit of English breakfast, a little bit of Italian, and a little bit of Austrian cafe-style food. There are excellent basics, from eggs benedict to some fresh rye bread with a piece of organic ham. It also has some of the best coffee in Europe. When I go, I like to order lots of little bits. I recommend the ham, poached eggs and some spinach.

Amagertorv 1, 1160 Copenhagen Tel: +45 33142889 europa1989.dk

D

D

Dinner

Noma is still the best eating experience I’ve ever had anywhere in the world. It’s so special because it discovers the nature around us and does it so much faster than any other restaurant.

The it puts into that is so amazing. I go in there and I get food and tastes I didn’t know existed here in northern Europe. I get some kind of grass that tastes like lemongrass, or I get fermented insect that tastes like lemon. They’re flavours we’re not used to having.

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Strandgade 93, 1401 Copenhagen Tel: +45 32963297 noma.dk

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New Town

Prague Dubbed ‘The City of a Thousand Spires,’ Prague’s medieval cobbled streets and squares are famous among filmmakers and tourists alike. But behind Prague’s photogenic facade lies a lively core brimming with contemporary culture – from elegant fine-dining establishments right through to quirky cocktail bars and ultra-modern museums. Visitors are free to soak up the best of both worlds, spending their days exploring the city’s incredible architectural sights before sampling the very best of Prague’s vibrant nighlife. And conveniently, given the city’s petite size, the next attraction is never far away. www.Hg2.com

HOTELS

RESTAURANTS

BARS / CLUBS

GALLERIES

01. Alchymist Grand 02. Hotel Paris 03. Buddha-Bar Hotel 04. The Iron Gate

05. Kampa Park 06. U Modre Kachnicky II 07. Rybí Trh 08. V Zátiší

09. AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 10. Bugsy’s 11. Bar and Books 12. Bílkova 13

13. Museum Kampa 14. Mucha Museum 15. Mánes Gallery 16. Franz Kafka Museum

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HOTEls 01 Alchymist Grand Located within Mala Strana’s charming cobbled streets, the Alchymist Grand (formerly U Jesizek Palace) is opulent to the core, and its sumptuous furnishings, palatial suites, and stunning foyer make it one of the most romantic hotels in the city.

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WoNDERLAND / Prague’s beauty has enchanted visitors for centuries

that might seem a little out of place in a medieval city, but since opening its doors back in 2009, this boutique hotel has become a favourite hangout for both locals and visitors.

04 The Iron Gate Housed in a 14th century building and set between Old Town Square and Wensceslas Square, The Iron Gate is not only ideally located, but a must-stay for history buffs. Guests can choose between rooms with restored frescos and painted ceilings dating from between the 14th and 16th centuries.

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Hotel Paris With the look and feel of a classic Parisian hotel, this Art Nouveau crash pad is probably the most upmarket in town. Built in 1904, Paríž retains that turn of the century elegance and grandeur – its stunning Royal Tower Suite offers panoramic views out over the city.

05 Kampa Park A Prague institution, Kampa Park has been considered one of the city’s elite gourmet restaurants for more than 20 years. Set on the banks of the Vltava River, Kampa offers an elegant location and a modern menu, including sumptuous meat and fish delicacies.

06 u Modré Kachničky II Conveniently located at the heart of the Old Town, U Modre Kachnicky II or The Blue Duck, is famous for its quintessentially Czech cuisine.

Serving up some fantastic game dishes and truly tempting desserts in candlelit surrounds, The Blue Duck is the perfect choice for a romantic dinner date.

07 Rybí Trh Tucked away behind Old Town Square in a quiet courtyard sits Rybí Trh, a restaurant renowned in Prague for its selection of delicious fish and seafood dishes. The outdoor terrace here is the ideal secluded suntrap in which to enjoy an al fresco lunch in the summer months.

08 v Zátiší Set in the quiet streets of the Old Town, V Zátiší is regarded as one of the best restaurants in the country. The dining experience here is extremely grand with a commitment to showcasing chef Milan Horejš culinary creations.

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Buddha-Bar Hotel Located in the Old Town Square, Buddha-Bar Hotel has Asian/Colonial-inspired décor of blood red, dragon motifs, and lacquer wood

rEsTauraNTs

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Prague Dubbed ‘The City of a Thousand Spires,’ Prague’s medieval cobbled streets and squares are famous among filmmakers and tourists alike. But behind Prague’s photogenic facade lies a lively core brimming with contemporary culture – from elegant fine-dining establishments right through to quirky cocktail bars and ultra-modern museums. Visitors are free to soak up the best of both worlds, spending their days exploring the city’s incredible architectural sights before sampling the very best of Prague’s vibrant nighlife. And conveniently, given the city’s petite size, the next attraction is never far away. www.Hg2.com

HOTELS

RESTAURANTS

BARS / CLUBS

GALLERIES

01. Alchymist Grand 02. Hotel Paris 03. Buddha-Bar Hotel 04. The Iron Gate

05. Kampa Park 06. U Modre Kachnicky II 07. Rybí Trh 08. V Zátiší

09. AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 10. Bugsy’s 11. Bar and Books 12. Bílkova 13

13. Museum Kampa 14. Mucha Museum 15. Mánes Gallery 16. Franz Kafka Museum

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LOCAL KNOwLEDGE

The carpet sellers of Sharjah

J

ust before you enter the Blue Souq in Sharjah (Dubai’s northern neighbour), it makes you a promise – a silent guarantee etched within the dark blue Islamic tiles and traditional wind towers, letting you know that a treasure trove awaits your arrival. Here,

Words by olivia Atkinson / images by farooq salik

A yemeni And A bAnglAdeshi Are keeping the Ancient Art of cArpetmAking Alive in the depths of shArjAh’s blue souq amongst the 600 shops, you will find Al Mashi Carpet and its owner, Yemeni-born Mohammed Bin Mohammed Saif. The man is a carpet encyclopaedia – a man whose knowledge and passion for the trade has been nurtured over the past 35 years.

Welcomed with a smile and glass of mint tea, you are slowly transported into the world of carpets, Sharjah’s very own Aladdin’s cave. It’s a small store, piled high with hundreds of handmade rugs from Afghanistan to Russia, each with an individual story to tell. The greatest and

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oldest tale of them all is that of the Persian carpet. The Iranians have more than 2,500 years of carpet creativity and wisdom under their belts, passed down from generation to generation as a closely guarded secret.

During the 16th century, Persian carpets were made in royal workshops founded by ruler Shah Abbas the Great. The exceptional power of the Safavid dynasty was reflected in the carpets themselves.

Designs were heavily influenced

by Islamic texts and carpets were woven with materials, including silk, gold and silver thread.

“Weavers would be instructed ‘Make me this, make me that,’ and carpets would slowly come alive,” explains George Ignatius D’Costa, Mohammed’s right-hand man from Bangladesh.

Al Mashi Carpet’s story, however, began in 1979 amid Iran’s Islamic Revolution. An economic sanction was imposed on Iranian goods, including carpets, causing weavers and sellers to flee the country, decimating the industry.

At the same time, the UAE was attracting traders from around the region, prompting Mohammed to relocate from Yemen with his uncle.

“After five years of working alongside him in Aden, we moved to the Emirates and I took a share in his business, says Mohammed.”

Ever since, Mohammed and George have seen the industry go through an additional rollercoaster of changes. In the 1980s, the skill of carpet weaving was revived by families in cities such as Isfahan, Qom, Tabriz, Kerman and Nain – some of the main carpet centres in Iran.

Today, Iran is home to an estimated 1.2 million carpet weavers, who produce an average

of 5 million square metres of carpet annually – making greatest ally, forming the very carpets the country’s second foundation of their business. largest export commodity and “We built friendships with one that can amount to more a number of families over the than $600 million per year. years, both in Iran and other These carpets are then exported tribal areas. They would invite to more than 100 countries, and some of them end up at Al Mashi. us into their homes, and because of this we knew that we were “Each area has trademark getting the best of the best, for a designs, colours and materials, price that was and the carpet is fair both to us named after the and to them.” city, district or Unfortunately, village in which honesty isn’t it is made,” Each arEa in a universal says George. value practiced The techniques iran has its within the and designs of own dEsigns, carpet industry. these familycolours and Carpets made made carpets from synthetic were inspired matErials; materials and by the artistic rugs arE namEd colours are brilliance and craftsmanship aftEr thE placE often presented as authentic established in thEy arE madE Persian or Shah Abbas’s Afghan rugs workshops. and sold to Westerners with “They say that with good untrained eyes, unable to tell the paintings, you have to put your difference. “Carpet trading can heart and soul into it. The same be very deceiving, and buying a goes for carpet making,” says carpet can be an overwhelming Mohammed. The carpet-selling task,” says George. duo believes that trust is their

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Two carpets are laid out on the floor in front of me. One is synthetic, made in China, and the other, a 20-year-old Tabriz. As I stand there, visibly struggling to distinguish between the rip-off and the real deal, Mohammed and George let me in on a couple of secrets. High quality medium-sized hand-woven carpets can take up to three years to make. “Take a look at the back of the rug,” George advises. “The quality can often be determined by the consistency and number of knots. Silk carpets are much finer than wool, and have up to 1,000 knots per square inch, making the back as stunning as the front.” Sure enough, the back of one carpet mimics the beauty of its surface. I go through a checklist, examining the colours, materials, patterns, textures and even the smell of the rugs. The diesel fuel scent of the machine-made copy allows the Tabriz to reveal itself. Mohammed says that a nine-hour working day could yield as little as one centimetre squared of carpet.

“Rewind the clock a hundred years or so, and you would see entire families making carpets but now school and other types of work take priority,” he says.

Copies of Persian carpets made their debut soon after the Islamic Revolution, suggesting that the reign of handmade carpets was, and is still, near its end.

“Handmade has a different value,” says George. “With machine-made, you have it and everyone else has it but with a carpet woven by hand, it is a unique piece that you buy because you love.” The price of handmade rugs has an enormous range – from under $250 to $15,000 and above – depending on size, materials, quality and origin.

Al Mashi’s decision to remain in Sharjah instead of Dubai’s tourist souks, impacts heavily on pricing, many bEliEvE making the trip to the Blue Souq worth it. that thE Era Visitors taking these of handmadE carpets back to their carpEts is home countries have reported that, when nEaring an End, valued for insurance although thE purposes, the rugs fetched two or three tradE continuEs times what they paid.

Like all art, good quality carpets are renowned as a sound investment, as long as you pay a fair price for them initially.

However Al Mashi Carpet and the Blue Souq remain cultural gems unknown to most who visit, and many who live, in Dubai. “It’s a traditional souk,” says George. “A bit rough around the edges, but it has a lot of history and a lot of life.”

“We are not big and powerful, but we are honest,” says Mohammed. “The little things are important. If a customer is happy with their carpet and I know it is going to a loving home then I am also happy.”

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Photo: Imran rashId

place

Badshahi Mosque / Lahore this spectacular mosque – commissioned by the sixth mughal Emperor aurangzeb in 1671 – is the fifth largest mosque in the world, capable of accommodating 5,000 worshippers. Its design was inspired by Islamic, Persian, Central asian and Indian influences, and its striking façade is made up of red sandstone and marble inlays.

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COLUMN

the revolution will be printed

Imagine you could print your own furniture, your own car or even your own house. With 3D printing methods developing rapidly, the possibilities are endless, but the technology has its drawbacks Words by Paddy Smith / Illustration by Roui Francisco

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I

’m holding an adjustable spanner, but not just any adjustable spanner – this one was downloaded from the internet and printed out on a machine that looks like a photocopier on steroids. It’s also useless. Yes, if you thumb the screw, the spanner jaws move slowly together or apart, but the handle is made of bendy rubber making this the toolkit equivalent of a chocolate teapot. Nonetheless, it’s a thrilling thing to behold because it represents the next dizzying transformation of our lives at the hands of technology: 3D printing.

The idea of downloading a three-dimensional design file to a computer isn’t new. Nor is the idea of printing it out – layer by layer – to build up a recognisable object. But in the past couple of years 3D printing has edged ever so gingerly towards the mainstream. The printer that produced our adjustable spanner costs $250,000 and can print in three materials at once, spitting out a finished product (with moving parts) intact and ready to use. It’s used to create production prototypes at a Californian industrial design studio. But home 3D printers now start around the $1,500 mark and are beginning to crop up in ordinary homes.

The budget end of the market is for hobbyists. You can print a shape or toy, blocks that spell your name, a scale model of a car or a character from Star Wars, or a piece of furniture for a doll’s house. Ready designs can be downloaded online, but the more adventurous hobbyist can create his or her own files – with less effort than you might imagine – and upload them to a shared online portfolio, the best known being Thingiverse.

Once you have chosen your design, the machine takes over the process of layering powdered resin with a bonding agent. The

process is painfully slow and of the century manage to creep up the machinery liable to seizure, on manufacturing in the second, but there is no denying that there will be trouble. In future, seeing something arising from you could download a Louis Vuitnothing is eerie and fascinating ton suitcase to your spare room in equal measures. With costs the night before you go on holiday. dropping, printing techniques Hopefully, you will download it becoming more elaborate, a (for a price) from Louis Vuitton. greater selection of materials But there is unlikely to be much available and software (as ever) to stop the unprincipled masses bridging the human-machine from opting for illegal, freely divide, we can all look forward to distributed CAD (computer-aided welcoming reliable, effective 3D design) files that are identical to printers into our homes over the the originals in every way. coming decades.

That may be too far in the fuFuture applications for 3D ture to cause immediate concern printing are seemingly limitless. for brands working with a rich In 2011, surgeons successfully array of textiles, but imagine printed a titanium jaw and fitted that you hold the IP (intellectual it to an 83-year-old woman; in property) rights to Lego bricks Holland, Universal Architecture is and the threat is immediate. threatening to print a 1,100 square Indeed, the first legal shots have metre building; there has also already been fired across the been talk of using the structural bows of hobbyists uploading elasticity of 3D printing to build designs covered by copyright on stronger bridges. user-generated CAD sites such But while the as Thingiverse. idea of inexpensively This is what will How can printing out new make or break you be parts for your car the future of 3D from the comfort of printing. The sure your your own home might possibilities are neigHbour seem like a technoendless, but too logical utopia, not much hair-trigger is not everyone is thrilled litigation could printing by the prospect of frighten off genuine DIY manufacturing. innovation. We’re His own Not only could large standing on the cliff gun? manufacturing edge of a future that economies such as could rock global China see their bread economies, bring and butter snatched about an era of product from the table as innovation equal to grassroots mom and pop factories anything humanity has ever seen sprout throughout Western suband leave us gawping at our own urbia, there are fears of criminal brilliance. Or it could be the undoing enterprise exploiting such an of thousands of years of civilisation. ungovernable medium. How can A rubber adjustable spanner may you be sure your neighbour is not be useless, but the machine it came printing his own gun? from could happily create a serviceThe chief concern of busiable replacement part for your vanesses (and, quietly, governments) cuum cleaner, and its offspring will is piracy. Should the digital be capable of greater things still. It revolution that decimated the would be a shame to die without music industry in the first decade knowing what they are.

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store

Zen CentralWorld Words by Greg McClenaghan / Images by Conor Purcell

I

n the heart of Bangkok’s shopping district, one of the biggest department stores in Asia is helping young Thai fashion designers bring their sense of style to the world.

Zen is located in the CentralWorld mall, easily accessible from two nearby skytrain stations. Covering seven floors, it sells everything from children’s toys to luggage and tableware – but its main focus is fashion.

Alongside well-known international brands and designers such as Vivienne Westwood,

Lacoste and Pierre Cardin, Zen gives plenty of prominence to home-grown talent. Thai fashion labels such as ESP and Espada focus on commercial, ready-towear clothes, while haute couture labels such as Flynow are popular with both Thai fashionistas and the foreign tourists who make up around half of Zen’s customers.

“The fashion market has changed, and both Thai and foreign customers are now very receptive to new designs – it is no longer just about status brands,” says Allan Namchaisiri, the president

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Open skies / april 2013

of the Zen department store. A 20-year veteran of the Bangkok fashion scene and a former head of government committees set up to promote the industry, he says Zen is aimed at “the young and young at heart,” shoppers who are not afraid to try something new.

“Because Zen is a trendsetting store we pay attention to the fashion scene and take more risks in presenting new brands. Our customers are people who are always looking for new designs – they want to be cutting edge, to be the first of their friends to discover something.”

QUIRKY / Zen’s mix of local independent brands shows the growing confidence of Thai designers

He says it is a sign of Asia’s maturing fashion market that many affluent consumers have moved beyond simply announcing their wealth with a Louis Vuitton, Prada or Chanel bag, and are now more interested in unique designs that show their discerning taste.

“They don’t need the status – what they want is design, a stylish piece of art. In societies such as Hong Kong or Singapore, secretaries can afford to carry Prada bags. Thais wouldn’t want to carry the same bag as their secretary, so they either buy the very high-end

collections, or they look for new, emerging luxury brands.”

Other customers with an eye for fashion but without the deep pockets to match might choose a local designer because their work is both stylish and affordable.

“Thai designers are often able to do nice designs with good workmanship that are also very affordable. Thailand is a good place to shop for all kinds of products – you can find high quality items for a reasonable price,” he says.

At Zen, one dress by local haute couture designer Olanor was on sale

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Open skies / april 2013

for $572, while a ready-to-wear top by another local label, Mosstories, cost $94, and shoes by the same brand were available for $57.

Value for money is very important to the tourists from China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Korea, who form a large part of Zen’s foreign customer base, along with shoppers from India and the Middle East, as well as increasing numbers of Russians.

However, one of Thailand’s other big draws – the warm and sunny weather – can also act as a brake on the ambitions of young

Thai designers, according to Allan.

“Most brands that we import from Europe or the US first became famous in their home cities, and were able to develop full seasonal collections according to the needs of their local marketplace. Every brand relies on domestic sales. Thai brands developing a collection to sell in Thailand will only be able to sell Spring-Summer and a bit of Fall – it’s difficult for them to develop a Fall-Winter

collection because they won’t sell. If you look at a European brand such as Zara, they develop collections for every season, they sell jackets, they do everything – and that makes it easier for them to go around the world franchising stores. Unless a Thai brand has so many foreign buyers that it justifies the volume, it is a challenge for them to develop and expand to colder countries, because they won’t be able to sell their heavier clothes back home.”

Zen has faced its own share of challenges, due to Thailand’s sometimes turbulent politics. In March 2010 the CentralWorld mall was forced to close when demonstrators seized the nearby Ratchaprasong intersection and set up camp for months of political protest. In May of that year, as the protests turned violent, CentralWorld was set on fire, causing such extensive damage that the entire mall had to be rebuilt. The mall, and Zen, finally reopened in January 2012.

“Obviously the closure hurt us – our loyal customers had to find other places to shop, and our exclusive brands needed to continue their presence by going to other stores,” says Allan.

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Open skies / april 2013

“When we reopened the challenge was to find new brands, re-establish ourselves and bring back our customers. We were driven by the determination to make Zen better than ever – we now not only have more brands in every category, but we have also added more lifestyle elements with rooftop dining and entertainment.”

Zen already includes two restaurants within the main store, but the very top of the building is being turned in to a full-blown nightspot. Covering four floors and with stunning views of Bangkok, the 6,800 square metre rooftop entertainment complex includes two restaurants that are open already: the 300-capacity Zense, which serves Thai and international food (and which recently hosted a DJ night by socialite Paris Hilton), and Shintori, a Japanese restaurant. Two other venues, Horizons and Heaven, which will offer cocktails and tapas, are due to open in May. “Food and beverage is an important part of any retail store these days, and we think this is really going to wow Bangkok,” says Allan.

“Zen is a unique, trendy place – you don’t find this kind of store in Asia. We are not just a fashion store, we are a lifestyle destination.”

Main 70 SPORT

The rise and fall (and rise again) of the New York Cosmos

80 MOVIES

Does the rise of quality TV spell the death knell for the movies?

Tidal Breaks A surf trip through the heart of Southern Europe

(p92)

PROFILE

The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen

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or one night during the Autumn of 1977, the United States was the centre of the footballing universe. The eyes of the world turned to a stadium in a town called East Rutherford, roughly 15 miles northeast of New York City. More than 75,000 fans, including Muhammad Ali and England World Cup-winning captain Bobby Moore, as well as more than 600 journalists, were on hand at the Meadowlands to witness the proceedings.

The occasion? Edson Arantes do Nascimento, better known as Pelé, was retiring. After 22 years and nearly 1,300 goals scored, the man whose native country of Brazil declared him a national treasure almost two decades earlier was calling it quits for the last time.

The match featured the living legend’s first team, Santos, battling the Cosmos, the club that paid him millions to come out of retirement in 1974. The squad, backed by entertainment giant Warner Communications, also signed international stars such as Giorgio Chinaglia, Franz Beckenbauer, and Carlos Alberto.

They were the most star-studded squad of all time, and helped football, however briefly, take over America in the late 1970s.

Suddenly, going to a North Ameri c a n S o c c e r L e a g u e ( NA S L ) match was the thing to do. Robert Redford and Mick Jagger found their way into the celebrity-studded locker rooms where Pelé held court, gregarious Italian Chinaglia told stories, smoked, and sipped Chivas, and Shep Messing, the C o s m o s ’s c h a r i s m a t i c g o a l keeper, an outgoing twenty-something from just down the road in Rosyln, New York, fuelled the fun.

Post-match, the party moved to the legendary Studio 54. Only the famous, the hip or the exceedingly lucky got into that madness. The Cosmos were one long, wild ride.

But just as quickly as they arrived, they all fell apart. Pelé left, the team

struggled, the fans departed, and the NASL collapsed under its own weight. That day near New York represented the best of times and the worst of times for the Cosmos. But what highs they were.

The Cosmos did not always represent glamour. In fact, when Warner Communications executives Steve Ross and Ahmet and Nesuhi Ertegun founded the franchise in 1971, the club was about as far from glamorous as a professional sports team could be. Football barely had a place in the American sporting consciousness with the four-yearold North American Soccer League (NASL) existing in the small space not taken up by baseball, basketball and other more traditional ‘American’ games.

But the Cosmos ownership trio, especially the Turkish-born Ertegun brothers, saw an opportunity to capitalise on the immigrant population that loved the sport above all else. They knew football had a future in the States and hired Clive Toye, an English-born ex-sports writer, to serve as the fledgling team’s general manager.

He began recruiting players, starting with former Carlisle United midfielder Gordon Bradley, who had a history of football success in North America. After kicking around the lower leagues in England, Bradley moved to Canada in the

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mid-1960s and then south to the United States, where he met Toye in 1969 while playing for a doomed Baltimore Bays franchise. (Toye served as general manager.) Bradley signed on as player-coach for the Cosmos, for which he was initially paid $8,000. Decades later, Toye said even that small sum made Bradley “hugely overpaid.’

On the field, the team started well. They played the first season in Yankee Stadium and finished second in the division. Despite the success, however, the club only drew 4,500 fans per game. The

friction / Pele and number nine Giorgio Chinaglia frequently clashed off the field

about glitz and cool. New York City sat at the centre of it all, but they had to find a way to make people pay attention to the Cosmos. The trio, however, also had a secret. Since the inception of the team, they had been attempting to sign a certain Brazilian superstar. So far, he had been rebuffed their approaches, but they felt they were getting closer. As 1973 turned into 1974 and the New York Cosmos bottomed out in the standings – finishing last in the Northern Division – and the stands – drawing just over 3,500 fans per game, more than 11,000 behind league leaders

next season was both better and worse. The Cosmos won the NASL championship, defeating the St. Louis Stars 2-1, but less than 4,300 supporters turned out per game as the team moved to Hofstra Stadium in Hempstead, New York. (The Stars, in comparison, led the league in attendance, with nearly 8,000 fans per game. Still not world-beating, but a significant increase from New York’s meagre support.)

Toye, Ross, and the Ertegun brothers knew they needed to make a splash. They understood that the US, especially in the 1970s, was

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LEGEnDs / Franz Beckenbauer and Johan Cruyff, two of the greatest players ever, graced the NASL

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the San Jose Earthquakes – Toye and the gang stayed positive. They nearly had their quarry.

“He’ll sign that contract here, because I want to sign that damned contract with him,” Toye said during his pursuit of the famous footballer.

It took a few years, but eventually the New York Cosmos’s General Manager succeeded in landing the biggest fish on the planet. The signing was a result of tremendous persuasive skills – Toye sold the Brazilian on the chance to bring the game to the US – and also boatloads of cash. By the time Pelé put pen to paper, he had a three-year contract worth well more than $1 million a season. It was a tremendous, unheard of outlay of cash by the standards of any sport – much less football – in the US. But the Cosmos had its man, and the press soon followed. The team announced the signing in June 1975 at the famous 21 Club, and nearly 300 journalists attended Pelé’s first game five days later. There was only one problem: the Cosmos played home matches at Downing Stadium on Randall’s Island, a spit of land in the East River between East Harlem, the South Bronx and Astoria. The field, nicely put, was in awful condition. The middle sloped dramatically down towards the sidelines, helpful for getting rid of rainwater but terrible for pretty play. The pitch wasn’t even green, so resourceful groundskeeper Stan Cunningham bought some spray paint to make the nationally televised affair look better.

“Pelé was a diamond in a rhinestone setting,” David Hirshey, who covered the team for the New York Daily News and wrote a book with star goalkeeper Shep Messing, is quoted saying, in Once in a Lifetime: The Incredible Story of the New York Cosmos. “It was inconceivable that he would play his first game in a place that was essentially a bunch of dirt and rocks left over from the Palaeolithic era.”

But the important thing was Pelé’s

proDiGaL son / Manchester United legend Eric Cantona is now New York Cosmos’ director of football presence. Football in the US would never be the same again.

The Cosmos didn’t make the playoffs in 1975, but it captured the imagination of New York. The next year promised to be better, as Warner Communications splashed more money on stars like Lazio’s Chinaglia. Unlike the 36-year-old Pelé, the Italian striker was in his prime and wasn’t afraid to tell anyone who would listen – and many who wouldn’t – how good he was.

His talent was only matched by his self-promoting antics. According to sportswriter Bob Kurland, the Italian star had a stipulation in his contract that called for a chilled bottle of Dom Perignon champagne to be placed in his hotel room on every road trip. Ultimately, Chinaglia would win four NASL scoring titles and tally almost 200 goals, but he frequently clashed with his Brazilian counterpart. The outsized team, the first one to feature

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pele’s last game marked the beginning of the end for the cosmos in its current form multiple global superstars, consisted of too many enormous personalities. It showed on the field. The Cosmos were bounced from the quarterfinals of the 1976 playoffs by a less skilled, but more unified, Tampa Bay Rowdies side.

If Pelé was going to win a Soccer Bowl, it would have to be in 1977.

West German star Franz Beckenbauer joined the squad after a phenomenal career at Bayern Munich, and ‘Der Kaiser,’ one of the best leaders in the history of the sport, attempted to bring together the different cliques in the team.

The language barrier and the growing distrust between Pelé and Chinaglia prevented the Cosmos from functioning as a well-oiled machine, but they managed to overcome the difference through sheer skill. Plus, the trips to Studio 54 acted as a unifying element. The Cosmos, who moved to the Meadowlands and dropped ‘New York’ from the team name, played in front of massive crowds home and away. They finally reached the Soccer Bowl and defeated the Seattle Sounders 2-1 for the championship. Pelé celebrated like a happy child. The rest of the team, momentarily forgetting the petty rivalries, did so as well.

The only step remaining in the Brazilian’s long playing legacy was a world tour with the Cosmos, during which they became the first foreign team to play in the People’s Republic of China, and also visited Japan and India. It culminated in the final match on October 1, 1977, attended by a record raucous crowd. “To soc-

cer-loving Americans, Pelé is the Beatles, Babe Ruth and Billy Graham in one package,” The New York Times reported.

Pelé played the first half in a Cosmos uniform – blasting a 30yard free kick into the net – spending the second 45 minutes with Santos. The atmosphere was celebratory. Football in America had never been bigger. The Cosmos was the best team in the world at the peak of its popularity.

But there was also a sad subtext.

The harsh reality was that Pelé would soon be gone. At the conclusion of the game, the sky opened up and it started to pour. “Even The Sky Was Crying”, one Brazilian paper dramatically headlined a piece about the match. The story referenced Pelé’s last game, but it could have been talking about the sport in the United States as well. The days of the Cosmos, the NASL, and football’s grip on America were numbered.

The Cosmos and NASL, however, wouldn’t disappear overnight.

If anything, the team and the league appeared stronger in 1978 than they had the previous year. The Brazilian no longer graced the field, but Chinaglia – finally able to fully take control of the attack – was better than ever. He found the back of the net 34 times in just 30 games as the Cosmos averaged nearly 50,000 fans per game. They repeated their 1977 Soccer Bowl victory, beating the Tampa Bay Rowdies 3-1.

1979 and 1980 saw similar narratives, with league-wide attendance growing to more than 5.5 million fans and the Cosmos – once again the New York Cosmos – leading the way. On the field, they continued to show a flair for attack and a relative distain for defence-, leading the NASL in goals scored. But cracks were forming in the base of the team and the league.

Chaos in the front office and Chinaglia’s increasingly erratic plan for the team led to

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a semifinal defeat in 1979. While the squad rebounded to win its third Soccer Bowl in four years in 1980, the glory days were over.

The good times, of course, continued off the field as the squad partied like never before. They were celebrities first and footballers second, led by the ringleader Chinaglia. “He loved being the star”, Kurland said of the egomaniacal talent.

Additionally, rising salaries across the league began to force teams to fold. The NASL was turning into an unprofitable disaster and no one could replace the caché Pelé brought or the interest he inspired.

By the time the Cosmos defeated the Seattle Sounders for the 1982 Soccer Bowl, it was clear that the league was barely hanging on. While it lasted two more seasons, and the Cosmos, now with Chinaglia as a part-owner and star, survived for a few more years in the indoor league, football no longer played a part in the American sporting conscience.

The team that ruled the country passed into memory and myth. numbEr ninE / Giorgio Chinaglia was the side’s most prolific, and most arrogant, player

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The Cosmos burnt out spectacularly, but the team did not fade away, at least not completely. Instead, the club gained a certain status. Young American football fans coming of age in the early 1990s heard about a super team of stars from abroad, but they could not watch them play in person.

They only existed in story and the occasional pirated video cassette.

Think about that for a second.

Imagine if Manchester United or Barcelona suddenly stopped existing, not only as a team on the field, but as a club off it. But, ironically, it actually kept the Cosmos alive.

The squad could not have kept up its pace and undoubtedly would have crashed and burned into something that was a fraction as cool, as glamorous or as relevant.

Nostalgia, you see, is powerful.

The New York Cosmos, by the fact that it did not exist, created an increasing sense that they should exist. Even with Major League Soccer (MLS) gaining popularity, the Cosmos remained as popular as ever, perhaps more so. The 2006 film Once in a Lifetime , a documentary detailing the excesses of the squad, added to the fever. Many of the famous faces, including Chinaglia and Messing, appeared in the film. (Pelé, who somehow managed to lose his millions, refused to participate in the film unless given a six-figure honorarium.) The star-studded premiere brought many of the former team back to New York. A reborn Cosmos franchise got one step closer.

A little more than four years later, new honourary president Pelé announced the return of the squad.

Chairman Paul Kemsley and his deputy, Terry Byrne – better known as David Beckham’s former manager – purchased the rights to the team from Peppe Pinton, Chinaglia’s former assistant who had kept the club’s memory alive for so many years. The best part was the archives, which Pinton kept in boxes.

back aGain / New York Cosmos were back in the spotlight for Paul Scholes testimonial in 2011. They lost 6-0 “It was like Aladdin’s cave. Box upon box upon box. Peppe had kept everything,” Kemsley told The New York Times. “We were pulling girls’ phone numbers out of the breast pockets of these jackets. I even called one of them.”

Although the club still had no actual team, they had something almost as important in this day and age: an apparel line supported by Umbro. Soon, teenagers around the world were seen sporting Cosmos gear. The club could still generate excitement. They hired Chinaglia as an international ambassador and signed Manchester United star Eric Cantona as director of football. Former United States star Cobi Jones agreed to serve as the outgoing Frenchman’s deputy. The team even played a match, when its under-23 team and some assorted other players lost 6-0 to Manchester United in the Paul Scholes testimonial in late 2011.

Off the field, however, there was trouble as Kemsley and Byrne ran through nearly $10 million. They sold their stake to Saudi Arabia-based Sela Sport, and Seamus O’Brien took charge in late 2011. He set things right, announcing that the club would play in the NASL during the second

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half of the 2013 season. Chinaglia didn’t live to see the announcement.

The hard-living Italian passed away two months before.

The team is currently finding players and recruiting coaches. Venezuelan Giovanni Savarese, who played with MLS’s New York/New Jersey MetroStars, signed on as the head man, assisted by Carlos Llamosa, Alecko Eskandarian and Memo Valencia. They are the not the big names of old, but they are a start. And the club is thinking big: the Cosmos’s owners recently announced plans to try to build a $400-million, 25,000seat stadium in Nassau County’s Belmont Park. It could be ready for the 2016 season. There’s also talk of joining MLS in the future.

But that is all to come. In August 2013, the New York Cosmos will return to the field in a very real way.

The team will call the 15,000-seat James M. Shuart Stadium home.

The venue was previously known as Hofstra Stadium, the same place the Cosmos played when it won its first NASL title in 1972. The more things change, the more they stay the same.

Noah Davis is a writer living in Brooklyn, New York

MOVIES

HAS TV KILLED THE MOVIE STAR? With TV studios creating more and more must-watch television, and Hollywood addicted to sequels and superhero fare, Michael Hogan examines why the small screen is the place to be

ART: ROUI FRANCISCO

VICTOR / Damien Lewis with his Emmy for his role in the Showtime production Homeland

“

Starring Kevin Spacey.

Produced and directed by David Fincher.” Sounds good, right? Let’s buy tickets, grab some popcorn and go see it.

But wait, these aren’t lines proudly emblazoned on a glossy new movie poster or flashing up at the end of a teaser trailer. No, they’re the credits for a TV show – namely, the new American reboot of 1990s’ British political drama House Of Cards .

Just the latest example of how television has ousted film as the foremost entertainment medium of our age.

No less an authority than the great critic Clive James recently compared Skyfall to The Sopranos thus: “James Bond is so obviously a bore compared with Tony Soprano. The TV scripts, in which even the violence was concisely written, simply had more in them.

They were for adults, whereas the movie was for children of all ages.

More and more as time goes on, you can feel the centre of power in screen entertainment shifting towards TV.” James has a point. TV dominates our conversations now more than ever before – online, around watercoolers, across bar and restaurant tables. We get more passionate these days about our favourite TV shows than we do about books, music or movies. TV is what we do to unwind in our precious downtime. It’s what we laugh, argue and tweet about. It’s what we recommend to our friends and bond over with strangers.

“Television is the new cinema,” wrote Daily Mail columnist Peter McKay recently. “When was the last time you had a conversation about a movie? Ever since 24 and The Sopranos – not to mention Breaking Bad, the best of them all I’d say – TV box sets have become the big talking points.”

To snobs or stuck-in-the-pasts, this might sound like sacrilege, but that’s because TV has become better than film in the 21st

All In The fAmIly / The Sopranos cast celebrate their win for Best Drama Series at the 2004 Emmy Awards

Traditionally TV has been seen as the poor relation in the cultural family; trashy, throwaway and without cachet c e n t u r y. W h i l e f i l m s h a v e declined in overall quality – the general trend is towards CGI over script, superheroes over real heroes and franchise blockbusters over original ideas – TV has become better. The small screen is now where you’ll find smarter writing, superior acting and more sophisticated entertainment.

When Homeland star Damian Lewis collected his Emmy for best actor last year – beating

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Boardwalk Empire ’s Steve Buscemi, Mad Men’s Jon Hamm and Downton Abbey’s Hugh Bonneville (how’s that for a line-up?) – Lewis said in his acceptance speech: “What an extraordinary honour to be in a category with these golden actors setting a golden standard in acting in a golden age of TV.” Lena Dunham, star and creator of zeitgeist-tapping cult comedy Girls , uses the same phrase: “I feel like I’m working in the new golden age of TV. There’s so much room for so many different kinds of characters. I seriously consider TV to be the people’s medium.”

Traditionally, TV has been seen as the poor relation in the cultural family – trashy, throwaway and lacking the aspirational cachet of ‘the arts.’ Fortunately for those of us with square eyes, that’s changed. We’re living in an era where the leader of the free world, President Barack Obama, earns cool points for admitting he’s addicted to Homeland , The

Wire and Modern Family . When the Camerons entertained the Obamas at 10 Downing Street, the photos offered a glimpse of the Prime Minister’s DVD shelf, with Band Of Brothers , Desperate Housewives and 24 boxsets proudly displayed. There’s no better evidence of TV’s chattering class credentials.

So how did a medium which we tend to take for granted get so hot?

Much of it can be traced back to a moment around the turn of the millennium and three game-changing letters: HBO. Until 1999, subscription-only US channel Home Box Office was mainly known for films and live sport. That all changed when it green-lit writer David Chase’s proposal for a drama about a midlife crisis mobster. HBO bigwigs thought Chase’s title, The Sopranos, sounded like a show about opera singers. They wanted to change it to Family Man but Chase wouldn’t back down. HBO wanted Chase to soften the violence too.

Again, Chase dug his heels in.

HBO co -president Richard Plepler recalls: “We called David in and said, ‘We can’t have the hero commit a brutal murder this early in the series. Are you nuts?’ He said, ‘That’s what it is. That’s the show I’m making.’ We thought about that for a while and said, ‘OK, you’re right. That is the show you’re making. And it’s a great show.’”

Nobody knew at the time but these negotiations were a turning point in TV history. Chase was allowed to make the subtle, dark, challenging series he wanted with budgetary backing but no interference. The Sopranos became a huge critical and commercial hit, often voted the best TV drama of all time.

HBO had chanced upon a magic formula: find talent, trust it and let it make something truly original, both in script and visual style. It’s been their formula ever since, meaning HBO’s credits reads

BReAkIng/ Bryan Cranston with his Emmy for Outstanding Lead Actor at the 2008 Emmy Awards

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TVs ‘golden age’ can be traced back to three letters: HBO like a roll call of everyone’s favourite shows: (deep breath) Sex And The City, The Wire, Curb Your Enthusiasm, Six Feet Under , Entourage , Deadwood , Band Of Brothers , True Blood , Veep , Game Of Thrones and Girls . A roster to beat any Hollywood studio’s output over the past decade.

Aaron Sorkin, creator of The West Wing and current HBO drama The Newsroom, believes the channel changed not just TV’s content but its audience, too. “The stuff that I write doesn’t work well as background viewing,” he says. “You want people to sit down and watch it like they’d watch a movie or play. HBO’s audience is conditioned to watch things that way.”

Hollywood heavyweight Scott Rudin – the first producer to ever win a clean sweep of Emmy, Grammy, Oscar and Tony – agrees: “For people who spent years trying to get movies made at all the companies that are now gone, there’s now one place to work where you can get respectfully treated and fairly judged. It’s HBO.” HBO rewrote the rules of TV. Rival networks soon followed in its trailblazing footsteps, notably AMC (makers of Mad Men , Breaking Bad and The Walking Dead ) and Showtime (with Dexter , Californication , The Tudors and Homeland ). Suddenly TV was playing with cinematic budgets. A single episode of Lost notoriously cost $12m, while Boardwalk Empire’s pilot episode cost $18m (and was directed by Martin Scorsese).

HBO’s influence spread across the Atlantic to Britain, where despite relative budgetary limitations, the BBC, Channel 4 and, increasingly, Sky are making TV with genuine ambition.

The ripples have spread all across Europe. The Scandi-crime and Nordic

noir trend was started by Wallander , truly took off with The Killing and continued with the likes of Borgen and The Bridge. Superior subtitled dramas now come from all over the continent: Inspector Montalbano and Romanzo Criminale from Italy, Spiral and Braquo from France, Gran Hotel and Falcon from Spain. HBO changed TV forever, all around the world.

In parallel with this programming revolution, technology has transformed the way we watch. “Going high-definition a decade ago was a huge turning point,” explains Elaine Pyke, director of Sky Atlantic – the home of HBO in the UK. “It was a perfect way for technology to meet the ambition of TV drama and move it up a level. You know when you sit down in a cinema and are engulfed by that visual experience? Well, TV now has that impact, that feeling of total immersion in something highbudget and high-quality.”

Flatscreens and 3D TV have hastened this development. Meanwhile, multiple channels give us more choice than ever and DVD boxsets enable us to gorge on our favourites. The advent of Sky+, TiVo and iPlayer mean we don’t miss a thing.

On-demand services like Netflix, iTunes and LoveFilm do away with the need for discs or even a TV set, while smartphones and tablets mean we can take it anywhere. “Two-screening” with Twitter allows us to interact with people watching the same thing at the same time. TV has become social, not anti-social. TV unites people, while film divides.

Indeed, Netflix’s most recent move could point the way towards TV’s next game-changing moment. They’ve not only moved into original programming, making House Of Cards, but released the 13 episode series all on the same day, across 40 countries, with a further 13 instalments already commissioned.

Netflix is reported to have paid $100 million for the two seasons. As a first major commission, it’s a striking statement of intent.

Has it paid off? Critically, definitely.

Stylish, clever and addictive, House Of Cards has attracted rave reviews. “This is The West Wing for werewolves. It’s

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fOuR Of TeleVIsIOn’s gReATesT ChARACTeRs /

OmAR lITTle / The Wire (2002-2006) One of the great TV characters of recent years, Omar (played brilliantly by Michael K Williams) is a stick-up man, robbing drug dealers with a shotgun. His trench coat, his scar, his moral code and his cunning are all things of legend. A giant of the small screen

ChAngIng TImes / Mad Men cast members slip out of character off camera going to keep people awake at night,” saId Michael Dobbs, writer of the UK original and an executive producer on the US remake.

Commercially, House Of Cards has become its most popular show, encouraging more sign-ups and increasing the loyalty of existing subscribers by 86 per cent. “It’s been phenomenally successful for us and a great start,” says Netflix chief executive Reed Hastings, who aims to triple subscriptions to 90 million. Meanwhile, boxset sales are at an all-time high.

The recent release of Game Of Thrones season two smashed HBO records.

A major benefit of storytelling on TV, above every medium except novels, is its ability to portray fullyformed characters. Whether it’s Don Draper, Josh Bartlett, Greg House or Carrie Bradshaw, TV is rich with

three-dimensional personas you love, hate, fear, lust after, laugh with and think you know – partly as a result of the time we spend in their company.

Screenwriter Michael Tolkin, author of Hollywood satire The Player , puts this shift succinctly: “Character has migrated to television.”

Sky Atlantic’s Pyke agrees: “We’re all sitting down to watch boxset TV, which means emotionally investing in the characters. This is what cinema can’t replicate. Films only have two hours to do it, whereas we have 10 or 13.”

This allows a narrative capable of greater nuance. David Lynch’s 1990 cult hit Twin Peaks not only mixed auteur-led tone with quality cinematography but was arguably the first drama where the narrative arc (who killed Laura Palmer?) spanned a whole series and beyond, rather than one episode.

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WAlTeR WhITe / Breaking Bad (2008ongoing) A high school chemistry teacher with lung cancer, Walter turns to manufacturing ‘meth’ to fund his treatment.

Starts off as the good guy and eventually turns into the bad guy, although the second half of Season 5 has not aired yet

Movie stars now routinely act in TV shows, a trend that was unthinkable just 20 years ago

Fifteen years later, Lost extended this even further, stretching highconcept themes and storylines across multiple seasons.

Spacey relishes House Of Cards’ ability to unfurl over 26 hours: “You get time to examine a character or series of circumstances over a long arc that you just can’t in film, which is very condensed. There’s been a shift towards bigger tentpole movies, so it makes total sense to me that directors, actors and writers would move somewhere they felt they could explore complex themes.

This seems to be the direction it’s going. People are consuming large chunks of story and getting really involved in big arcs. When I ask my friends what they did with their weekend, they say, ‘Oh, I stayed in and watched a season of Breaking Bad or Game of Thrones.’”

Its sheer quality means TV now attracts A-list talent, both on-screen and behind the camera. Movie actors happily take on TV projects because that’s where the meaty roles are. It’s a trend that started when Martin Sheen lent star power to The West Wing and Kiefer Sutherland was cast in 24.

TV now routinely attracts such A-list names as Kate Winslet (Mildred Pierce), Dustin Hoffman (Luck), Maggie Smith (Downton Abbey), Kevin Costner (Hatfields & McCoys), Julianne Moore (Game Change), Alec Baldwin (30 Rock), Glenn Close (Damages) and Kevin Bacon (The Following). Actors can shoot a network TV series for six months of the year

The BIg mAn / James Gandolfini brought a dark complexity to the role of mafia boss Tony Soprano in The Sopranos and squeeze a movie or two into the “hiatus” – it’s what the likes of Spacey, Steve Carrell and Salma Hayek do now. It’s become the normal way to work, flitting freely from film to TV and back.

TV tends to have better roles for women too. When was the last time you saw a female as strong and fully fleshed-out as Peggy Olson, Sarah Lund, Sue Sylvester, Birgitte Nyborg, Hannah Horvath or Carrie Mathison on a cinema screen? Vanity Fair’s James Wolcott says: “When it comes to inventive comedy, complex heroines and finely textured drama, the action has left the cineplex and headed for broadcast and cable.”

Directors are increasingly migrating to TV, attracted by the relative artistic freedom to create stylised, sophisticated work. Fincher has turned his hand to House Of Cards, while Kevin Williamson, creator of the Scream films, has a hit on his hands with serial killer shocker The Following. Martin Scorsese exec-produces Boardwalk Empire and directed the pilot.

Comedy king Judd Apatow (Knocked Up, Anchorman) works alongside Lena Dunham on Girls. JJ Abrams, Michael Mann

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PResIDenT JeD BARTleT / The West Wing (1999-2006) Dubbed the most popular Democratic president in recent history, Bartlet managed to combine wit, integrity, compassion and intelligence, all while winning a second term. One of the most likeable characters on television

legenDs / Kevin Spacey is just the latest movie actor to move to the small screen, with House of Cards

TOny sOPRAnO / The Sopranos (19992007) Arguably the greatest single character in TV history, Tony Soprano was portrayed so brilliantly by James Gandolfini, it is easy to forget the other outstanding performances that made the series so watchable. But Tony towers above them all, a larger than life character; violent, conflicted, depressed, sentimental – HBO hit the jackpot with this series, largely down to this man.

and Steven Spielberg move seamlessly between the two media.

In Hollywood, however, risk-averse studio decision-making means that apart from a handful of Oscar-fodder films, the landscape remains dominated by established franchises, animated sequels, comic spin-offs, weak romcoms and video-game emulations.

Terence Winter, showrunner on The Sopranos and creator of Boardwalk Empire, laments the steady decline in quality: “Back in the 1970s, the Academy Award nominees and huge box office hits were things like The French Connection, Midnight Cowboy or The Graduate – really interesting character studies. Now the big box office successes are superhero stories.

It seems there’s a lowest common denominator mentality. But there clearly is an audience out there of people who want to be engaged, are willing to pay attention and follow a story that requires a little effort.”

Oscar-winning director Steven Soderbergh (Erin Brockovich, Traffic) believes commercial pressures have squeezed out superior film-makers: “When I was growing up, there was a sort of division.

Respect was accorded to people who made great movies and to people who made movies that made a lot of money.

That division just doesn’t exist anymore: Now it’s just the people who make a lot of money. I think the audience for the movies I grew up liking has migrated to television. The format allows for the narrow and deep approach that I like.

Three and a half million people watching

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a show on cable is a success. That many people seeing a movie is not a success. I just don’t think movies matter as much anymore, culturally.”

As well as grown-up drama, movies struggle to make comedy nearly as well as TV. The funniest fare of recent years isn’t on film – it’s TV shows like Louie, Modern Family and Girls. What can Hollywood offer? Grossout dumbness, Adam Sandler vehicles and the odd decent Apatow production such as Bridesmaids, which is so gratefully pounced upon, it gets wildly overpraised.

Films tend to divide depressingly into ‘chick flicks’ and ‘guy movies,’ while TV is more unisex, meaning couples can watch together and enjoy it equally in a way that’s all too rare at cinemas. TV thrives on variety too. You can pick up your remote and flick from period drama (Mad Men, Downton Abbey) to fantasy (Game Of Thrones, Merlin ), sci-fi ( Lost , Doctor Who ), musicals (Glee, Smash, Nashville) or horror (True Blood, The Walking Dead).

Last year, ticket sales at the US box office hit a 19-year low. Yet while the movie business is struggling, its little brother has never been in better health.

Besides, in tough economic times, it’s no contest. Per hour of entertainment, DVD boxsets work out a fraction of the price. TV is not only better but it’s a bargain. See you on the sofa.

Michael Hogan is the TV critic for The Daily Telegraph in London

SHOWN: CHADATM IN HIBISCUS

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Yacht club stairs with Ondarreta Beach, San Sebastiรกn, in the background

Point break Spanish photographer Carlos Hernandez and some friends take a surf trip through southern Europe

biarritZ View of a natural bridge in the south western French town

San SebaStiรกn A pigeon flies above the city

oVieDo CitY View from a hotel room lit by a TV in the north western Spanish city

MeirรกS Camping on the top of the cliffs in Galicia.

This is a good place for surfing, with so many spots around

itZiar Surfers watching the waves in the Basque town. This is a very special spot, a small rock beach surrounded by cliffs

barCeLona Palms near Barceloneta Beach, the most famous surfing beach in Barcelona

ZUMaia Sunbathers on the beach view in the Basque Country town of Zumaia, near San Sebastiรกn City

ZaraUtZ Surfing near San Sebastiรกn, in the Basque Country This town is very famous for its surf culture and because of the high level of its surfers. It is maybe the most famous surf town in Spain

• • • • • • • •

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BRIEFING 105

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114

MILAN LOUNGE

GREEN PUSH

ROUTE MAP

Emirates opens its 35th dedicated lounge in Milan’s Malpensa Airport

Emirates launches new environmental initiative

Discover the world as connected by Emirates

Pinoy Plus

Emirates announces new daily flights to Clark International Airport in the Philippines

(106)

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. Mediclinic City Hospital T +971 4 435 9999 cityhospital@mediclinic.ae

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NEWS

It’s 35 and countIng 930 square metres. The fresh design has the same attention to detail as the other Emirates lounges throughout the world, where guests can enjoy facilities and amenities that include a range of local and international dishes, LED TVs, comfortable leather armchairs, a choice of formal and relaxed seating, a quiet area, a dining area, shower facilities, business centre, a water feature and bespoke artworks.

The lounge also has a dedicated prayer room.

Emirates currently operates 49 weekly flights to Italy, including three daily flights to Milan Malpensa, two daily flights to Rome Fiumicino and two daily flights to Venice Marco Polo.

Milan’s Malpensa airport is the newest member of the everexpanding collection of airports to have a dedicated Emirates lounge. The newly opened lounge is the airline’s 35th and is available to all Emirates First Class and Business Class passengers, as well as Platinum and Gold members of Emirates Skywards – the airline’s frequent-flyer programme.

The Dh11.8 million lounge in Milan Malpensa is the first

international lounge to feature the airline’s contemporary new interior design and follows on closely from the opening of the Emirates First Class and Business Class lounges in Concourse A, Dubai Airport, the world’s first dedicated A380 Concourse.

Located in the third satellite area of Milan Malpensa Airport, the new Emirates Lounge offers seating for 158 customers, and covers an indoor area of

Perfect timing Don’t miss your next Emirates flight.

Make sure you get to your boarding gate on time.

Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.

Thank you for your cooperation.

105

dedIcated decade

located on a 230m stretch of pristine beach, at the foot of the dramatic Hajar Mountains and fronted by the Indian Ocean, it is no surprise that Le Méridien Al Aqah has recently celebrated its tenth anniversary.

Based on the UAE’s eastern coastal town of Al Aqah, only 90 minutes from Dubai, the beach resort is just a short drive from the town of Fujairah.

Equipped with nine specialised restaurants and bars, a spa and fitness centre and kids club – the Le Méridien Al Aqah has something for everyone.

One of the resort’s strengths is its scuba diving facilities, which are conducted under the professional supervision of PADIqualified instructors. Through the dive centre, certified divers can explore the wreck just off the hotel beach or experience a night dive. Guests can also take an adventure day trip to Musandam to see the fjords in what is known as the Norway of the Gulf.

emIrates to launch second destInatIon In the PhIlIPPInes eMirates will begin daily nonstop flights to the Philippines’ Clark International Airport from October 1, 2013.

The airport, located 80km north of Manila, in the province of Pampanga in Central Luzon, will be Emirates’ second destination in the Philippines, building on its three-times-daily flights to the country’s capital, Manila.

“There has been a growing demand for Emirates’ services since we connected Manila with Dubai and our constantly expanding network on six continents. The launch of flights between Clark International Airport and Dubai will offer our passengers the flexibility of choosing from two destinations in the Philippines,” said Tim Clark, President of Emirates Airline.

Operated by a two-class Boeing 777-300ER, EK338 will depart

Dubai at 04:00hrs and arrive at Clark International Airport at 16:40hrs. The return flight, EK339 will depart at 18:35hrs and arrive at Dubai International Airport at 23:05hrs.

The Central Luzon region is home to around 17 million

106

people and is known for its rich coastline, stunning mountainous landscape and for the emerging tourist attraction of Mount Pinatubo, an active stratovolcano that, following a hike to its crater, offers breath-taking views of the surrounding area.

Your home in Dubai

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Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel: +971 4 323 0000 Fax: +971 4 323 0003 reservation@emiratesgrandhotel.com www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

green

Recycling foR chaRity

The emiraTes Group has recycled

more than 50 tonnes of obsolete IT equipment over the past 12 months, raising more than Dhs250,000 for the Emirates Airline Foundation.

The past year has seen the group recycle approximately 15,000 depreciated IT items including mobile phones, tablets, printers, cameras and more.

Recycling e-waste is encouraged across the company thanks to its partnership with Enviroserve – a Dubai-based company, that specialises in e-waste recovery and recycling – all with a ‘zero waste to landfill’ policy.

Emirates receives payments from Enviroserve according to the amount of recycling, with the funds then donated to the company’s charity arm, the Emirates Airline Foundation – set up in order to help children in need in developing countries around the world.

a gReeneR tomoRRow emiraTes is on the lookout for a partner to

launch its new environmental or conservation initiative ‘A Greener Tomorrow’.

Having already carried out a series of initiatives including using obsolete aircraft chinaware to create an oyster bed in Dubai, testing new air traffic management practices that reduce fuel burn and carbon dioxide emissions and establishing conservation-based resorts in Dubai and Australia – Emirates now wants to take environmental innovation even further, by supporting not-for-profit organisations to safeguard their local environment through the through the new ‘A Greener Tomorrow’ initiative.

This is the first time Emirates has run such an initiative, and successful organisations will receive awards of up to of US$150,000.

The initiative is worldwide and open to established not-for-profit environmental and conservation organisations. www.emirates.com/greenertomorrow

new noise standaRds foR aiRcRaft

The aviaTion indusTry

has agreed to impose tighter noise standards for future commercial aircraft.

The International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) has adopted new guidelines that will apply to all newdesign aircraft, and lowerweight aircraft entering into service from 2017 will be 7dB below the current standard laid out in the ICAO’s Chapter 4 noise standard, which became effective in 2006.

The move has been welcomed by the IATA, with Director General Tony Tyler declaring: “Air transport is already 75 per cent quieter than it was four decades ago, and the industry will continually pursue costeffective noise management options to reduce the number of people subject to aircraft noise, in line with our broader global commitments on sustainability and environmental performance.”

All Emirates aircraft are compliant with ICAO’s Chapter 4 noise standard, which is currently its most stringent standard.

1,700

18,000

dirhams raised via emiraTes’ cloThes recycling projecTs

Trees are saved due To emiraTes’ paper recycling

(source: emiraTes environmenT reporT)

(source: emiraTes environmenT reporT)

108

COMFORT

Comfort

in the air

to help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you to enjoy your journey and time on board with emirates today.

smart traveller

Before Your JourneY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or

drink plenty of water

if you suffer from a respiratory or

rehYDrAte With WAter or Juices frequentlY.

cardiovascular condition.

Drink teA AnD coffee in moDerAtion.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before

travel lightly

the flight.

cArrY onlY the essentiAl items thAt You

Eat lightly and sensibly.

Will neeD During Your flight.

At the Airport Allow yourself plenty of timefor check-in.

wear glasses

Avoid carrying heavy bags through

cABin Air is Drier thAn normAl therefore

the airport and onto the flight

sWAp Your contAct lenses for glAsses.

as this can place the body under considerable stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

use skin moisturiser

During the flight

ApplY A gooD quAlitY moisturiser to ensure Your skin Doesn’t DrY out.

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may

keep moving

suffer more acutely with popping

exercise Your loWer legs AnD cAlf

ears, therefore consider providing

muscles. this encourAges BlooD floW.

a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in

make yourself comfortable

the same position.

loosen clothing, remove JAcket AnD AvoiD

When You Arrive

AnYthing pressing AgAinst Your BoDY.

Try some light exercise or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

110

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VISA & STATS

Guide

cabin crew will be happy to help if you need assistance completing the forms

to Us cUstoms & immigration forms Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle

customs declaration form

free as possible. The Cabin Crew will offer you two forms when you are nearing your destination.

We provide guidelines below, so you can correctly complete the forms.

immigration form

The immigration Form I-94 (Arrival / Departure Record) should be completed if you are a non-US citizen in possession of a valid US visa and your final destination is the US or if you are in transit to a country outside the US. A separate form must be completed for each person, including children travelling on their parents’ passport.

The form includes a Departure Record which must be kept safe and given to your airline when you leave the US. If you hold a US or Canadian passport, US Alien Resident Visa (Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a valid ESTA (right), you are not required to complete an immigration form.

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs DeClaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

112

electronic sYstem for traVel autHorisation (esta)

if you are an international traveller wishing to enter the united states under the Visa waiver programme, you must apply for electronic authorisation (esta) up to 72 hours prior to your departure. esta facts:

children and infants require an individual esta. the online esta system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. a successful esta application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. aPPlY online at WWW.cBP.goV/esta nationalities eligiBle for tHe Visa WaiVer*:

andorra, australia, austria, belgium, brunei, czech republic, denmark, estonia, finland, france, germany, hungary, iceland, ireland, italy, Japan, latvia, liechtenstein, lithuania, luxemburg, malta, monaco, the netherlands, new Zealand, norway, portugal, san marino, singapore, slovakia, slovenia, south Korea, spain, sweden, switzerland and the united Kingdom** * suBJect to cHange ** onlY BritisH citiZens QualifY under tHe Visa WaiVer Programme.

113

ROUTE MAP

114

OPEN SKIES / APRIL 2013

115

OPEN SKIES / APRIL 2013

116

Open skies / april 2013

AD 117

Open skies / april 2013

FLEET

The Fleet Our fleet cOntains 201 planes Made up Of 190 passenger planes and 11 cargO planes

Boeing 777-300eR Number of Aircraft: 87 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-300 Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777-200LR Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-200 Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777F Number of Aircraft: 8 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

For more inFormation: www.emirates.com/ourFleet

118

AiRBus A380-800 Number of Aircraft: 32 Capacity: 489-5 17 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

AiRBus A340-500 Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

AiRBus A340-300 Number of Aircraft: 7 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

AiRBus A330-200 Number of Aircraft: 23 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

Boeing 747-400F/747-400eRF Number of Aircraft: 1/2 Range: 8,232km/9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m

aircraFt numbers as oF 30/04/2013

119

MAY N

ext month we discover one of Dubai’s hidden treasures, an oasis of greenery in the heart of the city. We also take a trip to the Sri Lankan capital, Colombo, and find out why the city has become more than a pit-stop on the way to the southern beaches.

We find out the best places to go for breakfast, lunch and dinner in Beirut, courtesy of the editor of Lebanon’s most exciting food magazine.

We also find out why independent magazines are now seeing a resurgence around the world.

Socotra might not be a well-known Middle East destination, but it is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful, as you will discover through our stunning photo essay. See you next month.