Open Skies | September 2010

your COMPLIMENTARY copy

Bali

Biking In Paradise Côte d’Azur Nice Treats

A Royal Guide to Jodhpur

SeptemberMAY 20102010

48 HOURS in Beirut

“I want to win” Corey pavin’s Ryder cup dream

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Contents SEPTEMBER 2010

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Features

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22 AMERICAN EAGLE Corey Pavin will be the man in charge of the American Ryder Cup team as it takes on the Europeans at the Twenty Ten golf course in Wales.

BY GUIDO DUKEN

30 BALI BY BIKE There’s more than one way to explore this beautiful island, but doing it by mountain bike is a serene and environmentally friendly option.

BY LAETITIA CHANEAC-KNIGHT

37 THE GOLDEN MILE Nothing fits like a tailor-made suit, especially when it comes from Savile Row. And now there are new tailoring options that save both time and money.

BY SCOTT ADAMS

43 A FEAST IN NICE

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Niçoise cuisine is a heady fusion of Italian, French and Mediterranean styles. Plus there are some local Michelin-starred chefs who add their own tasty twist.

BY JAMES PALMER September 2010

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Regulars 06 10 12 14 16 18 20 52 56 58 60

TRAVEL SHORTS World Matters WANDERLUST Calcata, Italy WORLD CALENDAR Events to Diarise WELL TRAVELLED Graham Hughes STYLE CENTRAL Seasons Change MY WORLD Sarah Tanner, Wingwalker CELEBRITY CITY Ragu Rathore’s Jodhpur 48 HOURS in Beirut DUBAI DIARY The Hot List COOL STUFF Fitness Gadgets DEPARTURE Jomon Sugi

Emirates News 63 The latest news and information about Emirates, helpful travel tips and its global network.

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COVER PHOTO: REX FEATURE Published for Emirates by

PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE. Telephone: (+971 4) 2824060, fax:(+971 4) 2824436, e-mail: emirates@motivate.ae

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Editor-in-Chief Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Group Editor & Managing Partner Ian Fairservice Group Senior Editor Gina Johnson Email: gina@motivate.ae Senior Editor Guido Duken Email: guido@motivate.ae, Arabic Editor Ghoufran Fakhri Email: ghoufran@motivate.ae, Deputy Editor Nick Rice Email: nick@motivate.ae Editorial Assistant Hilda D’Souza Art Directors Tarak Parekh, Rehab Barham General Manager – Production and Circulation S Sasidharan Production Manager C Sudhakar General Manager, Group Sales Anthony Milne Email: anthony@motivate.ae Business Development Manager Nicola Hudson Email: nicola@motivate.ae Senior Advertisement Manager Jaya Balakrishnan Email: jaya@motivate.ae; Deputy Advertisement Manager Murali Narayanan Advertisement Manager Shruti Srivastava Editorial Consultants for Emirates: Editor: Siobhan Oswald Arabic Editor: Hatem Omar Deputy Editor: Stephanie Byrne Website: emirates.com INTERNATIONAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES AUSTRALIA Okeeffe Media; Tel +61 89 381 7425, Fax +61 89 382 4850, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au CHINA/HONG KONG Emphasis Media Limited; Tel +85 22 516 1048, Fax +85 22 561 3349, advertising@emphasis.net CYPRUS Epistle Communications & Media; Tel +35 72 246 6555, Fax +35 72 276 9999, nasreenk@epistlemedia.com FRANCE/SWITZERLAND Intermedia Europe Ltd; Tel +33 15 534 9550, Fax +33 15 534 9549, administration@intermedia.europe.com GERMANY IMV International Media Service GmbH; Tel +49 211 887 2310,Fax +49 211 887 2919, j.hoffmann@vhb.de INDIA Media Star; Tel +91 22 281 5538/39/40, Fax +91 22 283 9619, ravi@mediastar.co.in ITALY IMM Italia; Tel +39 023 653 4433, Fax +39 029 998 1376, lucia.colucci@fastwebnet.it JAPAN Skynet Media Inc.; Tel/Fax +81 43 278 6977, skynetmedia@y2.dion.ne.jp TURKEY Media Ltd; Tel +90 212 275 8433, Fax +90 212 275 9228, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, Fax +44 207 906 2022, nhopkins@spafax. com USA Redwood Custom Communications Inc.; Tel 212-473-5679 x 313 , Fax 212-260-3509, brigitte.baron@redwoodcc.com

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy, please contact The Editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general, and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

76,389 copies January-June 2010 Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

17th of September 1755. In the offices of the solicitor Mr. Choisy, a young Master Watchmaker from Geneva named Jean-Marc Vacheron is about to hire his first apprentice. This agreement is the first known reference to the founding watchmaker of a prestigious dynasty and it represents the establishment of Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watchmaking manufacturer in the world in continuous operation.

Ever since this agreement, and true to the history that built its reputation, Vacheron Constantin has been committed to passing on its knowledge to each of its Master Watchmakers in order to guarantee the excellence and durability of its craftsmanship and of its timepieces.

Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding, Pink gold and palladium case, Hallmark of Geneva, Self-winding mechanical movement Ref. 86050/000R-00O20

Manufacture Horlogère, Genève, depuis 1755.

Boutique

Mall of the Emirates, 1st Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai Tel: 04 2221222

travelshorts Break a Holiday Sweat

CORBIS

Now you can come back from your holiday looking even more rejuvenated and having lost a few pounds with the added glee of not having to promptly embark on a back-from-holiday fitness diet. Just add sight jogging to your holiday itinerary. The latest tourism craze has already captured the imaginations of city destinations such as New York, Berlin and London where organised special jogging sightseeing tours and urban races are held.

Now the trend appears to have caught on in the French capital.

Paris Running Tours is the newest wing of jogging fanatics, Global Running Tours, who have set up over 40 sight-jogging outlets in cities worldwide. The French outlet has designed 10 different routes that can begin either from your hotel or a famous Parisian landmark, and will incorporate some of the city’s best-known monuments, urban landscapes and parks. Running individually or with a small group of friends, you will be accompanied by a multilingual jogging coach who will guide you through your cultural journey.

CULTURE ICON For most of human history, the influence of superstitious belief has gone to shape people’s thoughts in designing lucky charms to ward off evil influences. One such talisman, most widely used in Turkey, is the Nazar or the ‘Evil Eye’ charm. The sparkling blue eye made from glass can be seen hanging from doors, ceilings and walls of every other shop in Turkey. It is believed to protect all who it guards and is a must in every household. Locals wear them as ornaments or display them as wall hangings in homes and offices. Tourists are often seen picking up inexpensive key chains, fridge magnets and mobile accessories made of these concentrated black, white and light blue charms to take back as gifts. The belief in the Nazar is rooted in the Mesopotamian culture and is felt in the Middle East, South Asia, Europe and even the Americas, where the medieval belief was passed on by European colonists and Middle Eastern immigrants.

This is evident from the many languages it has come to be known in. In English it’s referred to as ‘evil eye’, in French ‘mauvais oeil’ and in German ‘böse blick’, to name but a few.

Superlatively Speaking The World’s Five Longest Suspension Bridges

Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, Japan Also known as the Pearl Bridge, at 1,991 metres it claims the longest central span of any suspension bridge.

It links the city of Kobe on the mainland of Honshu to Iwaya on Awaiji Island, covering the Akashi Strait.

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Xihoumen Bridge, China Built to connect the Zhoushan Archipelago, the largest island group in China, the bridge’s main span stretches 1,650 metres. Costing nearly US$363 million, it was completed in 2007.

Great Belt Bridge, Denmark This suspension bridge is part of The Great Belt Fixed Link that binds the Danish islands of Zealand and Funen across the Great Belt strait. The suspension spans 1,624 metres.

Runyang Bridge, China The south section of this bridge runs across the Yangtze River in China and is designed in a suspension style with a notable main span between the vertical suspenders extending 1,490 metres.

Humber Bridge, England Extending across the river Humber in England the main span, suspended between 152metre-high towers, runs to 1,410 metres. The bridge enjoyed the top spot as the world’s longest singlespan suspension bridge for 16 years.

www.belledopium.com

travelshorts Monte Carlo Island in Dubai Scheduled to officially open on New Year's Eve, the Monte Carlo Island will only be accessible to residents of The World – a massive collection of private and commercial islands created by Nakheel – and those who pay the annual membership fees of AED30,000 ($8,168). Members must also own a boat to be able to reach the island. Part of the ‘Heart of Europe’ project on The World, the Monte Carlo island is being built in two phases and will boast a club house, swimming pool with barbecue area and a dance club.

Josef Kleindienst, CEO of The World’s project developer Kleindienst Group, said that the island is to be a members-only event venue.

When finished, The ‘Heart of Europe’ – a development worth AED3.1 billion (US$840 million) – will feature luxury hotels, designer villas, holiday apartments and shops.

ca·pri·cious 1. Subject to, led by, or indicative of caprice or whim; erratic: He’s such a capricious person, I never know how he’ll react.

2. Obsolete, fanciful or witty.

TRAVEL TIP

WHEN IN ROME...

5 TIPS TO IMPROVE HOW YOU WALK

In Hong Kong, don’t give anything in sets of fours. Four is a very unlucky number in Chinese culture.

The average person takes between 3,000 and 4,000 steps a day and has been walking since their first birthday.

However, it is surprising that most of us could improve how we walk. Here are some useful tips.

1. Stand tall with a slightly lifted chest and a straight back.

2. Point your chin down and pull in slightly to place the neck in a neutral position. This supports the head and prevents neck pain.

3. Relax your shoulders and keep them back and down.

4. Bend your arms 90 degrees at the elbow and swing in time with the opposite leg. This helps balance the body.

5. Check that hips are level and knees pointing forwards. Keep pelvis tucked under torso.

Walk with your heel first, then feel the pressure roll towards the balls of your feet, and then push off your toes.

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In Thailand, you should understand the meaning of the ‘wai’. Wai is when a person puts their hands together close to their body at chest level and gives a slight bow.

The higher the hands, the more respectful the wai. It can mean ‘Hello’, ‘I’m sorry’, or ‘Goodbye’.

In Nigeria, be aware that Nigerians communicate with a lot of gestures and body language, so you may have to pay attention to non-verbal cues when conversing.

wanderlust

Calcata, Italy Calcata may sound similar to the Indian city of Calcutta, now Kolkata, but this Italian town has far less hustle and bustle.

Located in central Italy this cultural and romantic destination is the perfect haunt for travellers looking for tranquillity and beauty. This wonderfully preserved town is built on a volcanic hill and its maze-like alleyways, stone houses and dazzling views made it a boomtown for artists in the 60s.

With so many painters and sculptors the town soon had a large number of galleries sprouting up that now attract droves 10

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of visitors every year. For a real experience of the relationship between art and nature visit Opera Bosco, the Museum of Art in Nature, that consists of two acres of woodland filled with artworks made from natural materials. In the centre of town, three Etruscan-style thrones sit on the main square and artistic residents sell their wares at shops and galleries throughout the village. At the Bazaar dei Sognatori youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find period pottery and affordable artworks to take back from the trip. â?&#x2013;

worldcalendar

October 2010 Highlights of global events for the month ahead.

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1-3, FRIDAY THE RYDER CUP 2010 Golf’s premier event, contested between teams from Europe and the US, will be staged at Celtic Manor’s Twenty Ten course in Wales, UK. Colin Montgomerie will be at the helm as Europe tries to wrest the prized trophy from the US team captained by Corey Pavin. rydercup.com/2010

15-17, FRIDAY IVECO AUSTRALIAN MOTO GRAND PRIX The Philip Island stretch in Australia is regarded as one of the toughest, fastest and most unpredictable circuits on the calendar. Casey Stoner, the 2007 World Champion, will be the crowd favourite in the third last race of the season. motogp.com.au

3-14, SUNDAY XIX COMMONWEALTH GAMES This sporting event in Delhi, India, will feature worldclass athletes spanning disciplines from gymnastics, swimming, cycling and shooting. The opening and closing ceremonies will feature performances by a repertoire of Indian classical artists. cwgdelhi2010.org

19-24, TUESDAY BODRUM CUP The celebrated Bodrum Cup Regatta draws both beginners and old-salts to Turkey. Landlubbers can enjoy the sailing from shore where beach parties, fashion shows and live bands will be in full swing. Or you can participate as a passenger. bodrumcup.com

8-10, FRIDAY BIRGUFEST 2010 Malta’s biggest cultural celebration unfolds over three days in the historical maritime capital of Birgu.

The event covers everything that is traditional from historical re-enactments, band marches, candle lit parades, concerts and folk singing. birgu.gov.mt

20-24, WEDNESDAY WANAKAFEST Enjoy four action-filled days of glamorous catwalks, concerts and street parades in the beautiful town of Wanaka in New Zealand. This family-friendly affair also has plenty of activities for kids, as well as a food and wine festival. wanakafest.co.nz

12-17, TUESDAY WORDFEST Local and international authors including leading home grown writers David Suzuki, Noah Richler and Todd Babiak will feature at this literary fiesta held in various venues around Banff and Calgary in Canada. wordfest.com

22, FRIDAY JIDAI MATSURI Droves of tourists and locals will gather to witness the grand costume parade that offers a glimpse into Japanese’s culture at one of Kyoto’s largest festivals which is deeply rooted in tradition. pref.kyoto.jp/visitkyoto/en

13-24, WEDNESDAY FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS Berlin, the German capital, is transformed into a glittering spectacle as this festival celebrates its sixth year. Illuminated historical landmarks, a series of cultural events, projections and stunning fireworks dominate the two-week event. festival-of-lights.de

30-31, SATURDAY EDEN CHALLENGE This 30-hour challenge in South Africa’s stunning Garden Route area includes a thrilling night hike through the indigenous forest, cycling through rugged mountains and a bout of strenuous river paddling that totals 150 kilometres. sa-venues.com/events

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welltravelled

Graham Hughes He’s a man on a mission. The dauntless voyager is making a 90,000-kilometre trip to every country in the world without ever leaving the ground. Nick Rice catches him for a few words on his way around.

Over 2,500 years ago Homer wrote the epic poem The Odyssey, describing Ulysses’ 10-year journey from Troy to Ithaca. It’s a tale of seemingly insurmountable odds, grit, determination and ultimate triumph. This classic work inspired Graham Hughes, from Liverpool in the UK, to mount his own mission – travelling to every country in the world without taking a single flight. He cannot drive himself, and can only use public transport. The journey, when completed, will include crossing the international borders of 200 countries – the 192 members of the United Nations, the two recognised independent countries of Kosovo and Vatican City, plus additional disputed territories.

The self-described ginger-haired Scouser (native of Liverpool) is now three quarters of the way into his mission, entitled The Odyssey Expedition. Fans can follow his escapades at theodysseyexpedition. com and on the TV show Graham’s World, which is screening this summer on National Geographic Adventure.

Hughes set off on January 1, 2009, from Buenos Aires, Argentina, and recently ticked off his 163rd country upon arrival in Kochi, India. Although Hughes has already set a new Guinness World Record by visiting 133 countries in one year by ground transport alone, he isn’t just gallivanting around the planet for the sheer fun of it. He is also raising money and awareness for the charity WaterAid. With estimates of poor sanitation causing 1.8 million child deaths a year, one billon people lacking even minimal access to running water and 2.6 billion people having no access to basic sanitation, it’s a worthy cause.

Speaking to Hughes as he approaches 600 days on the road, it’s immediately clear that his stories are stacking up – from the highs of driving trains in Denmark and joining tribes in Gabon to the lows of being locked up for a week in the Democratic Republic of Congo.

He has a fun loving and naturally curious spirit and takes the set backs squarely on the chin.

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“It’s a cliché, but travel really does broaden the mind – the best way to learn about this planet we call home is to go out there and see it for yourself. It comes down to this – years from now, when you’re on your deathbed, are you going to look back with fondness at the things you did, or the stuff you bought?” ❖

streetstyle CAROLINA HERRERA Nothing screams chic more than a pair of gloves teamed with a glamorous ensemble. Courtesy of Carolina Herrera, these will keep you warm and stylish for many seasons ahead. carolinaherrera.com

HERMÉS The must have staple to every woman’s wardrobe, treat yourself to (another) Hermés scarf this season. hermes.com

TODS If you’re looking for a new carry-all, this beauty from Tod’s should be on top of your wish list. tods.com

Seasons Change

The month of September marks the change from summer to autumn in the Northern Hemisphere so update your wardrobe in style this season.

TODS Packing for your next business trip needn’t be a chore ever again with this super stylish set from Tod’s. tods.com

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LOUIS VUITTON Wrap yourself up in some serious luxury with this superb scarf by Louis Vuitton. louisvuitton.com

VERSACE These boots from Versace will put the biker boy back in your wardrobe. versace.com

myworld

Sarah Tanner, Acrobatic Wingwalker

The AeroSuperBatics Breitling Wingwalkers use Boeing Stearman aircraft for their aerobatics displays.

During the show wingwalkers have to deal with forces up to 4 g.

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arah Tanner, 28, is one of three women who make up the world’s only formation aerobatic team – the AeroSuperBatics’ Breitling Wingwalkers. Founded 23 years ago by pilot Vic Norman, the team is based at a former World War I training airfield in Gloucestershire, UK. Tanner and her fellow wingwalkers Danielle Hughes, 21, and Stella Guilding, 22, spend the summer months performing synchronised loops, handstands and rolls 300 metres above the ground, harnessed to the wings of vintage biplane aircraft. Each year six million spectators see the team display at airshows, carnivals and concerts around the world.

Sarah, from the British seaside town of Westonsuper-Mare, remembers seeing the Breitling Wingwalkers as a child while visiting airshows with her father. Years later, working at a hot-air ballooning event, Tanner came across the Breitling team again,

and was persuaded – by a friend who knew of her passion for dance – to apply on the spot. Now in her fifth wingwalking season, Tanner most loves the exhilaration of flying upside down along the spectator line reports Sally Howard.

You make it look so easy up there despite the fact you’re performing against fierce winds and strong g-force. Is it hard work?

Just a little! I got into wing walking because I was a dancer, but the two pursuits are totally different. When you’re on the ground looking up it’s all very graceful.

But when you’re travelling against winds of 230km/h it’s difficult to maintain that grace. The g-force comes when the plane dives. We perform a move we call the Breitling bump that’s the equivalent of climbing up a mountain and then diving down again. When we get to the top of a bump we swivel upside down

into a handstand and the plane dives down, subjecting our heads to 4 g. That’s an experience, I tell you – 4 gs whilst you’re doing a headstand!

Not so great for the hairdo I’d imagine?

Ha! No… As soon as you’ve taken off you’ve lost whatever it was you did to your hair, and the knots when you get down are spectacular. When we land we always have people who want to take their photos with us but our faces are bright red with windburn and our hair’s like haystacks – so I quickly sprint to the mirror!

Do you need exceptional fitness levels to be a wingwalker?

Yes. Even just standing up there on the wing takes work, as there’s nothing supporting your head and neck against the wind. When I was starting out in my training it was dispiriting as I’d see all the other wingwalkers performing so elegantly, yet I’d barely been able to move and was exhausted. I wondered how on earth I’d be able to build up the strength to do this. But lots of gym work and practice and you get there; and you develop muscles you never thought possible!

Top right: Performing manoeuvres at speeds of 230km/h and making it look graceful takes a high level of fitness.

Above right: The AeroSuperBatics Breitling Wing walkers team consists of the pilots (back, left to right) Martyn Carrington, team founder Vic Norman and David Barell.

In the front row are the wingwalkers (left to right) Danielle Hughes, Stella Guilding and Sarah Tanner.

What did your family say when you applied for the job?

When I first applied I didn’t tell most people because I would have felt miserable if I hadn’t made the grade.

When I was called for an interview my mum was apprehensive because she doesn’t like flying, but my father works for British Aerospace and is used to it all. My mum’s proud of me now but she’d never go up there herself. I definitely got the DNA from my paternal side!

What’s the most difficult aspect of wingwalking?

Definitely climbing around the aircraft. We often display at sites where there isn’t an airfield close by so it might be half an hour of transit. You’d get very tired up there on the wing, flying against the wind. So we have a harness around our waists attached to the aircraft and we do a transfer – essentially climbing from the cockpit in front of the pilot’s windscreen up to the top wing. It takes a lot of training. My biggest achievement

was the first time I climbed around an aircraft in flight.

You don’t do anything half-heartedly up there – you’re gripping on for dear life, believe me.

You wear distinctive orange Lycra outfits, are these for visibility or retro glamour?

Both, but practicality too. They need to be quite tight because if anything flaps about in the wind it creates drag. When the team first gave me the suit I thought I’m going to freeze up there! You can wear thermals underneath but – to be honest – it’s such a hard workout trying to perform manoeuvres up there that I never feel cold during the display. That comes later, during the transit home when the adrenalin wears off.

What’s the world like from up there?

When we fly upside down over the crowd or unstrap from the sitting harness and sit on the leading edge of the top wing it’s such an incredible feeling. It’s a cliché, but you feel as free as a bird. And the view! Standing on the outside of an aircrcaft flying over a sparkling sea or the desert of Abu Dhabi – it’s a rare privilege. I don’t think anything in my life will ever match it. ❖ September 2010

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celebritycities

RAGHU RATHORE

MY JODHPUR

My childhood was something straight out of a storybook. I grew up keenly aware of my royal pedigree as a Jodhpur Rathore, raised in the Zanana, or palace women’s quarters, where royal customs were real and a chivalrous code of conduct was everything, especially in a young man. This atmosphere – of a life lived between several centuries – propels my work as a fashion designer today.

Recently I saw a 1932 Rolls Royce stuck in the heart of Jodhpur’s Old City struggling to make a U-turn, as people with cellphones looked on. That vignette struck me as it encapsulates Jodhpur: a city where mysticism, tradition, modernity and style are all aspects of the everyday. There’s something intoxicating about life here. All this human bustle on the edge of the silent Thar desert.

The sky is something I miss when I’m away from Jodhpur. By day, its blues wash down the horizon

WHERE TO EATAA RAAS HAVELI is one of the most romantic spots in Jodphur (Mehrangarh Fort, + 91 969 423 7859). The terrace restaurant is set back into the walls of the fort and has a gourmet take on local dishes. Stay until sundown, when the terrace is bathed in warm underlighting. raasjodhpur.com ON THE ROCKS (Ajit Bhawan, Circuit House Road, +91 291 2513333,) is another erstwhile royal family pile that is now a heritage hotel. It pioneered the concept when it swung open its ornate doors to the public in the 1950s. Its bar and restaurant are notable, part open-air, with service that makes anyone feel like a royal. Later on, the dancing starts! ajitbhawan.com JANTA SWEET HOME (Nai Sarak, Station Road, + 91 291 263 6666) makes the best pyaaz ki kachori – delcious deep-fried flour patties stuffed with a caramelised onion filling.

WHERE TO SLEEPAA HOTEL UMAID BHAWAN PALACE was designed by the British Royal Institute of Architects for Maharajah

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of the city into a beautiful ‘Jodhpur blue’, best seen from the awesome and magnificent Mehrangarh Fort.

Mehrangarh is, rightly, most tourists’ introduction to Jodhpur. It’s an extraordinary achievement of beauty and strength that’s loomed 100 metres above the city for 1,200 years, resisting the many waves of preBritish invasions that could have decimated it.

After the fort, Umaid Bhawan Palace is Jodhpur’s icon. Now part-managed by the Taj Hotel Group, it’s the adhesive that binds the extended Jodhpur Royal Family, keeping our traditions intact. Architecturally, the palace is Indo-Sarcenic, with Art Deco elements reflecting the era in which it was built (1929-1944).

Jodhpur’s handicraft industry, now famous globally for its woodwork and objets d’art, traces its origins to the ambitious conception of the palace all those decades ago. The project was conceived as relief during a time of drought and brought together

Umaid Singh (+91 291 251 0101, ). This Palace (whose family quarters remains the world’s largest private residence) took 30,000 workers 15 years to complete.

With the Taj touch, it’s the epitome of luxury. tajhotels.com WHERE TO SHOPA SARDAR MARKET This classic Rajasthan market is bursting with colours and aromas. Pick up spices, nojris (pointed Rajpiut shoes), saree silk, handicrafts and silverware.

WHAT TO DOA MEHRANGARH FORT A meandering road leads you up to the epic Mehrangarh Fort, a postcard from an age of warfare (see the battlescars of cannonballs on the second gate). Inside there are several palaces, with many courtyards and beautiful decoration. Allow at least two hours. mehrangarh.org Rathore’s new flagship fashion and lifestyle store opened in Delhi in June (28, Khan Market, New Delhi, +91 931 111 2843). Other projects include a jewellery collection and a hotel design in Jaisalmer. suryagarh.com

Right: Ragu Rathore, a member of the Jodphur royal family, is a well-known Indian fashion designer.

artists and artisans from across India, to execute a huge architectural challenge – a colossal structure sprawling over 347 rooms – and their skills have remained here.

A good contrast to the hushed grandeur of the palace, and the only way to get to know any Rajasthani city, is to visit the market. All life converges in the narrow bazaars of the Old City market – where vegetables, sweets, spices, silver and famous Jodhpur handicrafts are sold, as they have been for millennia.

Of all the many discussions I have had about Jodhpur with friends and acquaintances passing through India, the one that I cherish most was with Jacqueline Onassis. On one occasion she remarked, elegantly, “If Jodhpur were a person it would most definitely be a lady in a shaded blue sari”. A beautiful thought, but an irony, as the city was actually built on the premise of manly sacrifice and the worship of the sword.

In a world of blogs, web communities and air travel, where time is a precious commodity, I find myself torn between the two worlds that I live in: one, that of the global citizen, the other the representative of a bygone era. But, walking alone in 10-metrehigh ceilinged living rooms with portraits of ancestors looking down at me, I’ve no choice but to submit to something far greater than me: the 1,200 years of my heritage.

My dream Jodhpur day would start at Pillars Café at the Umaid Bhawan Palace, with its views over the palace gardens, city and fort. Then I’d spend a few hours exploring the wonders of Mehrangarh, before lunching at Raas Haveli, a boutique hotel converted from a noble residence set back into the fort’s foothills, with a wonderful terrace restaurant.

Later, drinks at the sumptuous ‘J’ Bar at Ajit Bhawan followed by dinner at their On the Rocks restaurant, with its open-air, candlelit tables. Finally I’d unwind with a nightcap at any of the city’s plush heritage hotels, enjoying the world-famous Rajasthan hospitality and the city lights twinkling against the night sky. ❖ As told to Sally Howard

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PROFILE

AMERICAN EAGLE COREY PAVIN BRINGS A WEALTH OF EXPERIENCE TO HIS ROLE AS CAPTAIN OF THE 2010 US RYDER CUP TEAM. HE’S PLAYED IN THREE RYDER CUPS AND HAS ALSO SERVED AS AN ASSISTANT CAPTAIN. AND HE’S VERY CLEAR ABOUT HIS AIM IN WALES, GETTY IMAGES

NAMELY TO WIN, REPORTS GUIDO DUKEN.

September 2010

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PROFILE

could be an all-American poster boy. He speaks in a relaxed California-drawl, is a master of diplomacy, and has a quiet air of self-assuredness. Ask him a question and he’s happy to answer, but he weighs his words carefully. He also looks fitter and younger than his 51 years would suggest. On the golf course he’s known as a fierce competitor. In person he comes across as extremely likeable. But make a statement he disagrees with and there’s steel in his reply. All in all, he seems the perfect choice to captain the US Ryder Cup team.

Pavin definitely has the necessary experience as he played on the US Ryder Cup Teams in ’91, ’93 and ’95. The first two were US victories, the last one went to Europe. There’s no question what he’s aiming for. “My job is to make sure that we have the best players out there and the best chance to win,” says Pavin. “After all, that’s what we are playing the Ryder Cup for. Naturally, there are certain limits you stay within. But that’s what Colin’s (Montgomerie) aim is, to be a Ryder Cup winning captain and that’s what I’m after as well.”

The Ryder Cup started in 1927, but it wasn’t until the mid-1980s that it grew into today’s massive global sports event. In its early incarnation it was a biennial match between two teams of the best professional golfers from the US and Great Britain and Ireland, but in 1979 the rules were amended to become Team Europe. That allowed a number of great European players such as Seve Ballesteros, Bernhard Langer and Jose Maria Olazabal to take part for Europe. That changed matter. Prior to the first European win in 1985 the US had won 21 of the 25 matches. Including Team Europe’s first historic win the score now stands at Team Europe winning seven and drawing one of the 12 Ryder Cups since. Success on the golf course has translated into big business and today the Ryder Cup is televised in more than 100 countries and is the third most watched sporting event on TV, beaten only by the Olympics and the FIFA World Cup. There’s a lot of money involved and major sponsors such as Emirates and Rolex have flocked to the event. Emirates is the official airline of 15 golf events, while Rolex sponsors the four ‘Majors’, plus the US PGA, the European Tour and the Professional Golf Tour of India. In other words, as captain there’s a lot of responsibility on your shoulders.

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COREY PAVIN

Many pundits have argued that Team Europe is the favourite, but that’s not an opinion shared by either Montgomerie or Pavin. “I think the only reason we’d be favourites is simply because we’re playing at home in Wales and 90 per cent of the crowd will be European based,” says Montgomerie.

“We have to remember the United States holds two President’s Cups in a row, as well as the Ryder Cup. So the Americans have a very strong line up and I think this match will be very even.”

Pavin echoes that view but concedes that being

Above: Corey Pavin has 20 tour victories, he won the US Masters in 1995 and has played in three Ryder Cups. But as captain of this year’s US Ryder Cup Team he will have to watch from the sidelines.

REUTERS

PROFILE

the home team has its advantages. “I think the teams will be very even in talent,” he says thoughtfully.

“But the fact that we are travelling overseas, have time changes to deal with and will be playing a golf course that we are not as familiar with as the Europeans does count. Colin has the ability to set up the golf course the way he wants it and there will be lots of European fans, so all those things make it more difficult for us. But we just have to come over there and deal with it. Europe faces the same challenges when they play in the US, and they have coped very well.”

The two captains do disagree on one point: Montgomerie feels the Europeans have the edge as they are a more united team, while the US has a more individual setup. “Well, I must disagree with Captain Montgomerie on that point,” says Pavin, and this time there’s an edge to his smile. “I think the American team has always come together very nicely. I was Assistant Captain over in Ireland (2006, Team Europe won comprehensively) and although the team didn’t play that well we had a lot of fun and enjoyed each other’s company. I think there’s a misnomer that regardless of who wins it’s always that the losing team didn’t get along. I totally disagree with that philosophy! I’ve never seen a Ryder Cup team on either side not get along fine.”

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“MY JOB IS TO DEAL WITH THE PERSONALITIES ON THE TEAM, TO GET THEM TO WORK TOGETHER AND, IN A SMALLER SENSE, THE SAME GOES FOR THE CADDIES AND THE WIVES. I HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT WE HAVE THE BEST PLAYERS OUT THERE AND THE BEST CHANCE TO WIN.

Still, golf is a sport that rewards rugged individualism. Pavin, who won the US Masters in 1995 and has a total of 20 tour victories, is well aware of that fact. But, he points out, that’s exactly the challenge. “My job is to deal with the personalities on the team, to get them to work together and, in a smaller sense, the same goes for the caddies and the wives. I have to make sure that we have the best players out there and the best chance to win.” Still, he concedes that once you’re out on the course you are pretty much alone.

“As a player I always just wanted to play my

Above: The US Team won the Ryder Cup in 2008 on home soil at Kentucky’s Valhalla Golf Club. This year the European team will have the home ground advantage at Celtic Manor in Wales.

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PROFILE

As captain, Pavin also has the responsibility to get the best out of his players. Does he have a plan for that? “The bottom line is that the players have to go out and play well,” says Pavin. “My job as captain is to ensure that they have an environment that allows them to play the best golf they can. As a player it’s frustrating to watch guys play because I want to be part of it. But that’s not my role anymore.”

One of the captain’s major roles is to decide who actually gets to play and how to pair up the players. On top of that the US captain gets to pick four players for the team. “Yes, there are a few very difficult decisions that both Colin and I are going to have to face,” concedes the man who spent over 150 weeks in the top-10 of the Official World Golf Rankings between 1986 and 1997. “One of the early ones is the captain’s picks. I have four and Colin has three. The difficult part is the guys you don’t pick.

There are also 12 guys on the team and you can only play eight at a time over the two days. So it’s going to be very hard to say ‘sorry guys, you can’t play’.

Those are hard decisions but those are decisions I have to make for the team. That’s my job to have the best players out there and the best chance to win.”

Before interviewing Pavin I had the chance to see Celtic Manor’s Twenty Ten course up close and personal. It is the first course to have been purpose built for the Ryder Cup and makes clever use of the natural topography to give spectators the best view possible. One of the highlights is that the 16th, 17th and 18th holes are in full view of the main gallery and clubhouse. “It’s a very straightforward golf course,” says Pavin. “I don’t see a lot of trickery out

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match and concentrate on that,” says Pavin of his three Ryder Cup appearances. “I never really paid too much attention to what was happening in the other matches. Ultimately, I could only control what I’m doing on the golf course. That’s when it goes back to a more individual kind of attitude. I can’t control what everybody else is doing on the golf course as a player, but as a captain I do have more control.”

Some football coaches have banned the players’ wives and girlfriends during major tournaments, believing that they’re a distraction. Would Pavin ever consider that? “Hmmm,” he says thoughtfully before bursting into laughter. “Best I’m careful how I answer that.” Then he gets serious again. “I think in golf the wives, girlfriends and significant others play an important role. There’s some influence the wives have on the players but ultimately the players have to play. Still, there are a lot of wives out there that are probably very good sport psychologists. Others don’t get involved at all. But it’s a very big part of our lives. For me family is very important and to have my wife Lisa and my two-year-old daughter around is very comforting. It makes me feel better when I’m on the road. I think the wives are important out there and they have a pretty positive influence on us.”

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Bottom left: Pavin admits that golf is an individualist sport and that it is his job to get the best out of his team.

Below: Pavin with the coveted trophy.

The Ryder Cup has become a hugely popular event that attracts major sponsors and is televised in more than 100 countries.

there and it will allow the players who play their best to win and that’s all you can ask for as golfers.”

What would be the perfect start to this year’s Ryder Cup for the US captain? “In a match play format it is important to get off to a good start and build momentum”, says Pavin.

“There are a lot of things that can happen in match play. But ultimately it comes down to how the players get the ball in the hole.”

The atmosphere should be electric when play gets underway on October 1, especially as 50,000 spectators are expected daily. And, judging by past Ryder Cups, the majority will be supporting the home team. “It’s always thrilling as a player to have so many people around,” says Pavin. “It’s fun for us. I think that a lot of professionals thrive on what is in essence showing off.” Even if the players will be mainly European supporters?

That gets a wry smile from Pavin. “Obviously the fans in the gallery are going to be pro-Europe, but there will be a decent percentage of US fans. I don’t know what the exact percentage will be, maybe 90 – 10 or 80 – 20. But we’ll have some support over there and we will draw on it.” He pauses thoughtfully. “It also comes down to that when we play well it quietens down the local fans. I’ve played in the Ryder Cup

in Europe and it’s kind of awkward for us to play when it’s quiet. As golfers we’re not used to that, we’re used to cheers and reacting to that positively. But playing in Europe it’s the lack of cheers that’s encouraging to us.”

So, he’ll be hoping for dead silence at Celtic Manor? Pavin breaks into a broad grin. “I’m sure Europe is going to do some good stuff so there won’t be dead silence. I do hope that it will be quieter than in Ireland, that’s for sure. But in the Ryder Cup people cheer for one side or the other, and that’s what’s so much fun about it.”

And what will the two teams do when the last putt has been sunk? “Come Sunday night we’ll all get together, have fun and enjoy each other’s company with a few drinks. It seems to happen at the end of every Ryder Cup. We all understand we’re trying to win and do our best, but we’re friends.” Pavin pauses, and then breaks into a huge smile.

“Having said that, the two of us both want to win the Ryder Cup very, very badly,” he says and there’s no doubting his sincerity. ❖ THE RYDER CUP 2010 TAKES PLACE IN WALES AT CELTIC MANOR FROM OCTOBER 1 TO 3.

CORBIS

TRAVEL

BALI BY BIKE

There’s more than one way to discover the beauty of Bali, but doing it by mountain bike is a serene and environmentally friendly option. The routes cater for everybody and give a unique view of island life, reports Laetitia Chanéac-Knight.

Above: The Ubud Monkey Forest is a small nature preserve on the southern outskirts of Ubud. The forest is home to three temples, dating from around the 14th century, as well as three troops of macaque monkeys.

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Thinking of Bali, mountain biking doesn’t necessarily spring to mind. But it is one of the best ways to discover the island and its spectacular beauty. The small country roads and dirt tracks get you in touch with nature, the villages with their friendly inhabitants, and authentic Balinese life. Bali’s vibrant culture is at its best far from the tourist trails, and that’s exactly where the mountain bike tours go.

Thanks to the growing popularity of mountain biking the infrastructure is now in place to make this sport accessible to all. Some do it for fun, others enjoy the physical challenge, but all come back enthralled by the scenery. In Bali you are never too far from the start of a cycling track and, with a little preparation, mountain biking is truly for everyone.

One option is to rent a mountain bike on site and concoct a do-it-yourself tour. Locals are happy to provide useful information on the terrain, tracks and the weather. Don’t forget about the rain, especially at altitude, as tracks can become impassable.

Fortunately, in Bali you’re never too far from people if the going gets tough. A GPS is a useful tool to find your way around and locate tracks, while Google maps offer accurate contour lines, which help you understand the difficulty of a route.

Most visitors, however, prefer to join a tour with one of the reputable organisations. These companies provide transport from hotels, a well-serviced mountain bike, food and drinks, equipment, insurance and an experienced guide. Itineraries

Clockwise from top: Renting a mountain bike and going on an organised tour is the best way of experiencing traditional Balinese life; The Level 2 tour from Bedugul to Jatiluwih is one of the most scenic and includes the famous terraced rice fields of Jatiluwih; The Pura Ulu Danau Temple is another sight close to Bedugul.

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are usually graded from 1 to 5 on the difficulty scale and, regardless whether you are a complete amateur or a family with small ones, there’s a tour for you.

During my stay I used the services of Régis Requis, a pioneer of mountain biking on the island, who founded Archipelago Adventure. Biking is his passion and he knows Bali, as well as Java, like the back of his hand. The company offers several tours that cater for all fitness levels and as a safety precaution a vehicle accompanies every trip.

Families enjoy the easy discovery rides that explore the island. As soon as kids can cycle and use a three-gear bike they’re ready to tackle trips that stick to flatter grounds along small paths, rice fields or the beach. “I like all the things around me like trees, palm trees, little houses and monkeys.

Rocky roads are hard and fun, but my favourite is cycling in the rice fields,” was seven-year-old Marius’ opinion.

Tanah Lot, with its famous temple, is an easy destination (Level 1) suitable for families or anyone with no previous

August 2010

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TRAVEL INFORMATION

Top and above: Level 1 tours stick to easy and level terrain and are suitable for everyone. One of the most popular destinations is Tanah Lot, a rock formation off the coast, that is home to the Pura Tanah Lot temple.

Top right: The Munduk to Pupuan tour is for cyclists with previous experience. The reward for extra effort is the Munduk waterfall and coffee and cocoa plantations that are seldom visited.

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experience. In a day cyclists cover rice fields, stop at a dazzling beach to take a swim, visit a tile making workshop and a rice cooperative. Bali coffee and refreshments are provided along the way at local warungs (food selling spots) plus a tasty lunch at a traditional restaurant. What better way to go and see this sacred Balinese landmark?

Another Level 1 tour is Mount Batur to Ubud. The caldera offers splendid views of the volcano and lake and the smooth descent takes you through some of Bali’s famous fruit orchards. You are guaranteed to see farmers tending their fields, school children in uniforms walking back home and families preparing their midday meal. With all five senses fully alert, cyclists can soak up the unique atmosphere of Bali, its nature and day to day life. Once in Ubud, a welldeserved lunch is served in a little Balinese restaurant with an unimpeded view of the rice fields.

The Level 2 tour from Bedugul to Jatiluwih in central Bali is probably the most popular thanks to its amazing scenery. Cyclists start their 2.5 hours

Bali is a small island east of Java, Indonesia. Its tropical climate has distinct dry and rainy seasons.

Temperatures range from 24 to 35°C with high humidity. The dry season runs from May to October and the rainy season from November to April. It is still pleasant to visit Bali during the rainy season but the high season is in July, August and around Christmas.

Currency is the Indonesia Rupiah ($1 = IDR8.96 approximately).

GETTING THERE EMIRATES flies twice daily between Dubai and Jakarta.

RESOURCES The Bali Tourism Board is a good start for planning your holiday at balitourismboard.org. For up-to-date information on what to see and do bali.com is an excellent resource.

FURTHER READING MY LIFE IN BALI by Sandrine Soimaud is a great book for children and adults that explains all aspects of Balinese culture. Each page is beautifully illustrated with a watercolour.

LONELY PLANET BALI & LOMBOK offers practical information to explore the island.

BALI A TRAVELLER’S COMPANION is both a guide and a coffee table book. It covers fascinating background information and has accurate maps and many quality photographs.

TRAVEL

Bali Sea Kintamani

a di In

n

O ce an

Telaga Emas Pupuan

Mt. Batur

Munduk Bedugul Jatiluwih

Bangli

Ubud

BALI

Tanah lot Denpasar

INDIAN

Opposite page left: The macaques in the Ubud Monkey Forest might look cute, but they’ve been known to snatch sunglasses from unwary visitors.

Opposite page right: Kintamani, with its bustling market, is the start of a Level 3 tour that ends in Telaga.

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descent 1,200 metres above sea level on a small track that winds its way through charming mountain villages before plunging into a thick birch forest that provides some welcome shade. Heading south, the route crosses incredible countryside areas including Jatiluwih and its famous ancestral terraced rice fields.

“The highlight of my holiday was definitely the full day mountain bike tour around Bedugul and Jatiluwih,” said David Shackleton, who was on his third visit to Bali. “The beauty of cycling is the total tranquility, far from the hustle and bustle of the main tourist areas. You can enjoy the smells, sounds and sights of real Balinese life and you can stop any time to watch people going about their regular life without it being a show for visitors. What I learnt and saw on this tour was better than any guidebook I have read before.”

At Level 3 on the difficulty scale the Munduk to Pupuan tour is for cyclists with previous experience of off-road cycling who enjoy the challenge of changing terrain. This track goes through coffee and cocoa plantations in a mountainous area that not many people know. It’s up and downhill all day and definitely off the beaten track.

Aficionados usually opt for the Level 4 Kintamani to Telaga trip. This route was originally opened by mountain bikers and the variety of little forest tracks

Indonesia OCEAN

TRAVEL INFORMATION WHERE TO EAT MOZAIC is a world-class restaurant and culinary school. Chef Chris Salans guarantees a unique experience for your taste buds in a stylish setting.

Jl. Raya Sanggingan in Ubud (+62 361 975768). mozaic-bali.com NAUGHTY NURI’S is run by an American-Indonesian couple and is highly popular for its delicious ribs and other BBQ. Jl. Raya Sanggingan in Ubud (+62 361 977 547).

IBU OKA’S WARUNG is the place to taste Babi Guling and other Balinese traditional food. Cheap and always crowded. Jalan Tegal Sari No. 2 (+ 62 361 976345).

WHERE TO STAY PRIVATE VILLAS are a popular choice in Bali. Prices range from affordable to expensive. Check out the comprehensive website. natanhospitality.com KOMANEKA in Monkey Forest is an upscale hotel and a fabulous retreat in the centre of Ubud near to the shops and restaurants yet close to nature. komaneka.com TEGAL SARI HOTEL is a haven of peace and 15 minutes walk from the centre of Ubud. Set in rice fields, it ensures total relaxation with all the comforts. tegalsari-ubud.com

ILLUSTRATION: TARAK PAREKH

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TRAVEL

Mount Batur is an active volcan o, although it has been slumbering of late. At 1,771 metres it is def initely a climb for adventurous trekke rs. combined with the breathtaking views of mountain peaks are the strong points of this tour. It is physical but cyclists with enough experience are rewarded by spectacular views of Mount Baturâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crater, the Indian Ocean and a never-ending descent all the way to the coast.

If you have the experience and want something more daring then the Level 5 course from Mount Batur, at 1,600 metres above sea level, to Bangli and Ubud is the one for you.

It consists mainly of challenging small tracks and includes going down some steps and fording small rivers for a real feel of adventure. The descent lasts two and a half hours with magnificent views all the way.

So whether you are in search of the authentic Bali, physical exercise or fun with family and friends, mountain biking is key to discovering the hidden side of Bali. It opens the doors to some of the most beautiful sights in Asia. â?&#x2013;

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FASHION

THE GOLDEN MILE

Ordering a bespoke suit from a Savile Row tailor takes time and money, but now there’s a quicker and more affordable option, reports Scott Adams.

Skilful tailoring is at the cutting edge of fashion, and nowhere is this more apparent than in London’s famous Savile Row. The ‘Golden Mile’, since the early 1800s, has been the only place to consider when ordering a bespoke suit. The street’s undisputed reputation for excellent style and craftsmanship has over the years attracted the likes of Queen Victoria, Fred Astaire, Cary Grant and Pierce Brosnan, and it continues up to the present day.

At the centre of the tailoring business in Savile Row is Henry Poole, which has been creating fine suits for almost 150 years. The history of the shop goes back to the 1870s when it was more akin to a gentleman’s club. Men would pop in to spend the afternoon chatting to friends while having a few glasses of Pooley’s, hock or claret, or a puff of one of the excellent cigars which were always available as they got fitted in their finery. Henry Poole’s fame soon spread and he was named court tailor for Buckingham Palace. Queen Victoria later granted Poole her Livery Warrant, which they continue to hold under the present monarch, Queen Elizabeth II. All the glorious uniforms worn by coachmen, footmen and waiters in the royal household come from Poole’s workrooms.

The quintessential nature of fashion is that it must change; if it does not it atrophies and dies. Despite a reputation for tradition, few places have understood this as clearly as London’s Savile Row. For more than 150 years this centre of menswear has been constantly, if not

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Clockwise from top: Huntsman, at 11 Savile Row, has been around since 1849. The front shop and cutting room are open plan so you can watch the tailors at work; a classic three piece suit from Huntsman; Having a suit made is a leisurely affair, part tailoring and part club.

quietly, reinventing itself whilst always staying one step ahead of the game.

Recently, a renewed interest in tailoring has seen an acceleration in the pace of change. Both men and women are shopping for stylish suits and luxury fashions, and increasing numbers of affluent young entrepreneurs now have the means and desire to have their clothes made to measure. Technically, a street cannot be a brand, but people all over the world have come to know that Savile Row and fine tailoring go hand in hand.

Until recently, fine bespoke tailoring was out of reach for most people. A suit that has been handmade in every respect just for you is an expensive item 38

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and prices start at around £2,500.

Perhaps rightly, there is a certain mystique surrounding the business of Savile Row tailoring. It is a delightful, even seductive, experience and while most of our possessions are to be enjoyed at ‘arm’s length’, your clothing surrounds you. If you feel comfortable and believe you look good, that confidence will communicate itself to others around you.

Adjusting their working style to meet the modern clients’ demands, several of the Savile Row tailors are now offering customers a product that fits rather neatly between off-the-peg and bespoke.

One of these tailors is Kilgour, a company founded in 1882, which has the distinction of having made Fred Astair’s white tie and tails for the 1934 film Top Hat. There are two big advantages of the service that is now called Special Make: the price – around £900, and the fact that the suit can be completed with minimal alterations and fuss. Considering that a totally hand cut and stitched bespoke suit will probably require four fittings over a period of months, fewer fittings represents a big advantage for the business traveller on a tighter time frame.

The great thing with a made to order suit, whether it be traditional bespoke or Special

FASHION

Make, is that you will have complete control over what the finished article looks like, from the choice of cloth to the tiniest detail. If you would like to have lime green silk lining, then you shall have it.

There are essentially three choices to be made when ordering a suit. The first, and in some ways the most important, is the style. The basic decision is either single or double-breasted. The doublebreasted suit is certainly more classic. It can be very flattering, and a well cut example can do wonders with its strong shoulders and tapered waist. Singlebreasted suits cut a more modern image. Another point to consider is whether your suit is to be a two piece or a three piece, with a waistcoat. Waistcoats are definitely back in fashion, but you need a certain 40

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confidence and a slim build to carry one off. You also have to consider the extra insulation that they give. They are great in really cold climates, but remember that most offices, restaurants and airports are overheated today.

The second big decision is the fabric. It is a good idea to have an idea of what you want as you may be overwhelmed by all that is on offer in the tailorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s workshop. Shades of back, grey and blue predominate, but there are some wonderful lighter colours, as well as checks, stripes and tweeds. If you are looking for some wilder colours, there are fabrics that would make even the most hip of the hip happy. Fancy a pistachio toned suit with pink satin lining? Want it, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got it! There is also fabric weight to consider, something which is not even an issue when buying an off-the-peg item. A 12/13 ounce, which refers to the weight of a yard of cloth, is normal, but if you prefer something lighter for summer or travelling, or a heavier fabric for added warmth, it can be arranged.

The third decision concerns the detailing. It comes as no surprise that with a bespoke suit there are so many choices to be made. How many

Above left: Kilgour offers ready to wear as well as bespoke suits. The company has been on Savile Row since 1882.

Above: Most Savile Row tailors start out as apprentices at age 16. It speaks volumes for Savile Row that most tailors are still in the same shop 25 years later, guaranteeing the best quality.

Above: Every detail on a bespoke suit is selected by the customer. It might cost you around ÂŁ2,500 but you are assured of having a unique suit that is 100 per cent to your taste.

FASHION

buttons, pockets, with or without flaps, lapel shape, pockets inside, trouser pleats, belt loops, buttons for braces, a button or zip fly. The questions go on and on. The best idea is to look around first and see what other people are wearing, and to try on suits with the features you are thinking about including before ordering.

Now the fun begins. Out comes the good old fashioned tailor’s measuring tape and it is run up and down every part of your body. As you are being fussed over, the tailor will make an appointment for about six week’s hence for the first fitting. This can be done in the Savile Row showroom or, if you prefer, in your hotel suite. From the measurements the cloth is cut to the pattern in the London workshop and, in the case of a traditional bespoke suit, it will be sewn insitu by just one man. The secret in cost saving between a bespoke suit, which costs over £2,500 and a ‘Special Make’ suit for about £900 pounds is that once cut in London the sections are then sent off to Shanghai in China to be sewn up. Highly trained Chinese tailors complete the suit and the finished item comes back to London about a month later. At the fitting, the final adjustments will be made, such as waist adjustments or length of cuffs.

Until recently, women had very little reason to visit Savile Row, but a quiet revolution has been taking place. The

demand for women’s bespoke clothes is growing all the time and an expert tailor can make as much difference to a women’s shape as a plastic surgeon. The painstaking fitting process and long waiting period can put some women off but, for classic-styled clothes that last a lifetime, the wait is definitely worth it. The leaders on Savile Row for women’s tailoring are Hardy Amies at number 14, Gieves & Hawkes at number 1, and where Queen Victoria had some of her evening gowns and horse riding suits made, Huntsman and Sons at number 11.

Of course once a tailor has your measurements he can make any number of suits for you without you having to return to the showroom. However that would rather defeat the object of the exercise. Part of the fun of having a bespoke suit made is being able to say to your friends “I’m going to see my Savile Row tailor when I am next in London.” ❖

FACT FILE Henry Poole & Co – 15 Savile Row, henrypoole.com Kilgour – 8 Savile Row, kilgour.eu Hardy Amies – 14 Savile Row, hardyamies.co.uk Gieves and Hawkes – 1 Savile Row, gievesandhawkes.com Huntsman and Sons – 11 Savile Row, h-huntsman.com

NEW JOH N N I E WALKE R DOU B LE B LACK 速

TM

DISCOVE R A MOR E I NTE NSE TASTE OUR MASTER BLENDER INTRODUCES A DEEPER, SMOKIER AND MORE INTENSE WHISKY, BY EXPERTLY BLENDING THE MORE POWERFUL, NATURALLY SMOKY WEST COAST FLAVOURS WITH THOSE MATURED IN CHARRED OAK CASKS. THESE FLAVOURS ARE HARNESSED TOGETHER TO CREATE AN EXCEPTIONAL RESULT. A BOLD NEW ADDITION TO THE JOHNNIE WALKER 速 BLACK LABEL速 FAMILY.

P L E A S E D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY

The JOHNNIE WALKER, BLACK LABEL and DOUBLE BLACK words, the Striding Figure device and associated logos are trade marks. 息John Walker & Sons 2010.

GOURMET TRAVEL

A FEAST IN

Like the city itself, Niçoise cooking is a unique blend of Italian, French and pan-Mediterranean influences, reports James Palmer.

ISTOCK PHOTO

O

ne sweltering lunchtime this June, eight jets roared over the Baie des Anges towards the city of Nice trailing red, white and blue smoke. Diners on the roof terrace of the Radisson Blu hotel nearly spilt their rosés into their Niçoise salads as the planes looped the loop and sketched a heart in white smoke against the sky.

The Patrouille de France aerial display team had been called in to inject some high-octane jingoism into the 150th anniversary celebrations of the day Nice became part of France. If Giuseppe Garibaldi had had his way, those smoke trails would have been red, white and green. The man who unified Italy was born in Nice in 1807. Much to Garibaldi’s vexation, his hometown was annexed by France after a dubious plebiscite in 1860 – the price for

French support in Italy’s unification.

Italy’s political authority over Nice may be long gone, but its culinary, architectural and cultural influences live on. In Place Garibaldi, an Italianate square in Vieux Nice (the old town), a statue of Nice’s most rebellious son stands opposite one of the most popular seafood restaurants in town. The Café de Turin has occupied a sheltered spot in the Baroque arcade since the beginning of the last century, and is as popular as ever for its platters of fresh Roumegous oysters, sea snails, sea urchins, mussels, lobsters, langoustines and crabs. In an arcade beneath the square, Café de Turin has a little secret: Turinissimo, run by a Sardinian chef who uses the same ingredients as the main restaurant but prepares them with Italian regional twists, such as moules à September 2010

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CORBIS

GOURMET TRAVEL

Nice’s culinary styles transcend nationalism; what you end up with is a cuisine that is fiercely Niçoise, infusing Italian, Ligurian, Provençal, Savoyarde, pan-Mediterranean and gastronomic French influences. la Sicilienne (mussels in a spicy tomato sauce) and carpaccio de poulpe (thinly sliced raw octopus).

Nice’s culinary styles transcend nationalism; what you end up with is a cuisine that is fiercely Niçoise, infusing Italian, Ligurian, Provençal, Savoyarde, panMediterranean and gastronomic French influences.

When Francis Cresci established his pizzeria La Pizza in Rue Massena in the 1950s, he banned mozzarella, preferring his dishes to speak French, or at least Nizzardo – the Italian-inflected Provençal dialect that both his grandfather and Garibaldi spoke. First Cresci and now his son, Ludovic, use French Emmenthal and Cantal spread over a thin round of dough coated with tomato and herbs.

For a gelateria with a Provençal twist, head to one of two Fenocchio outlets in the old town. The Fenocchio family first opened an ice-cream parlour in 1966 on Place Rossetti, where charming red and yellow ochre buildings cluster around a cathedral and fountain. Their flavours (94 at the last count) are plucked straight from the hills of Provence, including thyme, rosemary, violet and lavender.

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Top left: Nice’s Old Harbour is a lively area known for its beautiful waterfront with many restaurants and cafés.

Top: Cours Saleya is a large pedestrianised street that is home to the local fruit, vegetable and flower market. It is also the right place to enjoy reasonably priced Provencal fare.

Above and left: Fenocchio, situated on the charming Place Rosetti, offers around 94 flavours of ice-cream.

A journey into the hills is a must for the inquisitive gourmand. The picturesque village of Tourrettes-sur-Loup, for example, is addicted to violet. Philippe Médioni and his wife Nathalie run a gourmet store and restaurant, L’Épicerie, where you can dine on tagliatelles à la violette, violet ice-cream sprinkled with crystallised violet, and a digestif made from, you guessed it, violet.

Next door, the larger hilltown of Vence is replete with innovative chefs. At the fabulous Chateau St Martin Hotel, a luxury spa resort built in a fortified Templar castle overlooking Nice, head chef Yannick Franques has acquired two Michelin stars in the last two years. His ingenious menu includes foie gras crème brûlée; langoustines with a ‘beurre mystérieuse’ and yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit); lobster cooked in saffron-flavoured fish broth,

NICE

ILLUSTRATION: TARAK PAREKH

GOURMET TRAVEL

TRAVEL INFORMATION Nice is the fifth largest city in France and the capital of the French Riviera. It has a Mediterranean climate, enjoying mild temperatures all year. Summers are hot and dry. Autumn generally starts sunny in September and becomes more cloudy and rainy towards October, but temperatures usually remain above 20°C until November when they drop to around 17°C. Currency is the euro (€1 = $1.28 approximately).

GETTING THERE EMIRATES flies between Dubai and Nice daily. Visit emirates.com or emirates-holidays.com for details.

RESOURCES The Nice Convention and Visitors Bureau website, nicetourisme.com, features useful downloadable PDF tourist guides.

breaded with dehydrated black olives; and pigeon on a truffled celery root spaghetti with a black spiced chocolate sauce.

Down the hill and close to the famous Chapel le du Rosaire de Vence, designed by Henri Matisse in the last years of his life, more masterpieces can be found at the one Michelin-star restaurant Les Bacchanales. The head chef Christophe Dufau only uses produce from within a 150 kilometre radius.

Consequently, his menu changes with whatever the market has to offer. You might find taureau (bull meat) from the Camargue roasted and then glazed with saffron, green peppercorns and wild rice; or daurade sauvage (Mediterranean bream) served with 46

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Top: Christophe Dufau, the head chef at Les Bacchanales in Vence, has earned a Michelin star for his seasonallyinspired food.

Left: The picturesque village of Tourrettes-surLoup is home to the restaurant L’Epicerie that specialises in dishes made from violets.

TRAVEL INFORMATION WHERE TO EAT CAFÉ DE TURIN 5 Place Garibaldi (+33 4 93 62 29 52;). Oyster specialist. Mains from €17.

LA PIZZA 34 Rue Massena (+33 4 93 87 70 29; crescere.fr). Pizzas made the Nizzardo way. Mains from €11.

FENOCCHIO 2 place Rossetti & 6 rue de la Poissonerie (+33 4 93 80 72 52; fenocchio.fr). Unique ice-creams and sorbets.

CORBIS

L’ÉPICERIE 15, place de la Libération, 06140 Tourrettes-sur-Loup (+33 9 51 34 66 99). A celebration of all things violet. Mains from €10.

LES BACCHANALES 247 avenue de Provence, 06140 Vence (+33 4 93 24 19 19; lesbacchanales. com). Provençal artistry, near the Matisse Chapel.

Set menus from €55.

LA PETITE MAISON 11 Rue St François de Paule (+33 4 93 92 59 59; lapetitemaison-nice.com). The most famous restaurant in Nice for local specialities.

Mains from €12.

la toine in Rue de Le Bistrot d'An ice favourite for its aN Prefecture is ed local food. ic pr ly reasonab

LE BISTROT D’ANTOINE 27 Rue de la Préfecture (+33 4 93 85 29-57). Provençal cooking at its best, in the old town. Mains from €12.

WHERE TO STAY RADISSON BLU 223 Promenade des Anglais (+33 4 97 17 71 77; radissonblu.com). A large convention and tourist hotel on the seafront with a stunning terrace. Doubles from €195 including breakfast.

CHATEAU ST MARTIN 2490 Avenue des Templiers, 06142 Vence (+ 33 4 93 58 02 02; chateau-st-martin. com). Luxury Relais & Chateaux spa retreat with a twoMichelin starred restaurant. Tasting menu from €120 per person. Doubles from €390 including breakfast.

Top: The freshest produce, sourced from the market at Cours Saleya, is a mainstay of Niçoise cuisine.

Right: Les Bacchanales in Vence is situated close to the famous Matisse Chapel.

Above: Dining under the stars at Cours Saleya.

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lemon-glazed turnip and verbena flowers.

Nice itself has a number of Michelin-starred establishments, the most recent in the constellation being David Faure’s Aphrodite and Mickaël Gracieux’ L’Aromate. But no visit to the city would be complete without trying its simple street food, socca – a chickpea flour and olive oil pancake baked in an oven in a huge pan, similar to the Genoese farinata. It is served hot and sprinkled generously with ground black pepper in the atmospheric old town market, the Cours Saleya.

Under the colourful awnings, you can sample another local speciality, fruits glacés – a sinful predilection of popes in times past, made by dipping cherries, oranges, apricots and pears into molten sugar.

The many restaurants that spill out into the Cours Saleya offer reasonably priced Provençal fare, including one of the few dishes to be named in honour of any city: the Salade Niçoise. Chefs have

tussled for years over what makes a true Niçoise salad: some insist anchovies should be used instead of tuna; some say tuna can be used but only if it is tinned, not fresh. The locals insist that vegetables such as green beans and artichokes should be raw, not cooked. The truth is, if it can be eaten raw and can be sourced locally, it can appear in your salad – with or without sliced boiled egg.

On these menus you will also find petits farcis (roasted vegetables stuffed with meat and rice), pieds paquets (lamb tripe stuffed with bacon and persillade, a parsley sauce), aioli (garlic mayonnaise, in which you dip vegetables and fish) and ratatouille (pepper, courgette, aubergine, tomato and onion stew prepared with olive oil). The rabbit spaghetti (Lapin à la mode de Gairaut) at Le Saleya restaurant is a rich and tasty example of Provençal cooking.

The most famous establishment in town, which has served Niçoise cuisine to celebrities and

Top: The rooftop terrace of the Radisson Blu hotel overlooks the famous Promenade des Anglais.

Middle: A crispy piece of seabass is served with mushrooms and violets at L’Epicerie in Tourrettes-sur-Loup.

Bottom: Lavander is a key ingredient in Provençal cooking.

gastronomes for decades is La Petite Maison, just down the road from the Cours Saleya on Rue Saint François de Paule. Each night, the tables are packed and spill out into the road. The locals’ favourite, however, and the jewel in the culinary crown of Nice, is the tiny Bistrot d’Antoine, tucked down the narrow Rue de la Préfecture. To get a seat, book a few days in advance and you will enjoy some of the best local food at very reasonable prices.

Ravioli, gnocchi, estocaficada (a fish stock soup of salt cod, vegetables and olive oil that takes days to make), and langue de boeuf (beef tongue in a creamy stew, served in a cast iron pot) are some of the dishes that are scrawled on its hand-written chalkboards daily. Sounds French, doesn’t it? Or maybe Italian? It can only be Niçoise. ❖

48hours

BEIRUT

The pearl of the Middle East is gleaming once more as Beirutis, with their vivacious and indomitable spirit, infuse Lebanon’s capital with excitement, sizzle and edge, reports Nick Rice.

WHY GO? Everybody is heading to Beirut as it is one of the hottest tourist spots on the planet at the moment.

According to the World Tourism Organisation, Beirut was the top destination for tourism growth in the world in 2009. The city had nearly two million visitors last year, a 39 per cent increase on 2008, and this year’s figures will no doubt be higher again.

So why the popular clamour to visit Lebanon’s capital city? Simple – it’s an incredible place that is thriving in a welcome period of peace and security.

The hostilities that had tarnished Beirut as a hot spot for trouble have ceased. A widely welcomed sense of calm has settled and a fervent resurgence is afoot with the world-renowned nightlife scene back in full joyful swing. Creativity is booming and battle-scarred backstreets have been transformed into designer districts with plenty of galleries to take in as well as kitsch curio shops and brand name boutiques.

WHAT TO DO The best way to experience Beirut is to roam around on foot as there’s always something to see or soak in. Being a pluralistic society with 18 different religious groups, variety really is the spice of life here. The majority of the population are Muslims and Christians and cultural and religious identities mingle and overlap in a tolerant and fascinating blend. Ladies in hijabs glide past glamour queens dripping in designer finery; Western tourists wander amongst the local shabby-chic hipsters and sharp professionals, with a chorus of Arabic, English and French chiming over it all.

A perfect spot to indulge in some people watching over an early coffee is the Gemmayzeh neighbourhood. Close to a hundred cafés, bars and lounges are bunched together in this thriving enclave around Gouraud Street. After observing the crowds you may want to join the bustle and for that head to the famous market at the Martyr’s Place known as Souk el Barghout. Here you can survey goods from 52

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traditional crafts and jewellery to perfumes and knick-knacks. Assertive yet good-natured haggling is as recommended as it is expected.

From here a trip to the National Museum on Damascus Road will give some insight into Lebanon’s long history. The museum covers the city’s ancient Greek and Roman eras and displays artefacts ranging from Roman statues to Phoenician sarcophagi. History lovers are spoiled for choice with 5,000 years of history to explore outside.

The spectacular blue-domed Mohammad Al-Amin mosque, St. George’s Greek Orthodox Church and remnants from the French mandate and Ottoman eras are just some of the landmarks worth visiting.

In the afternoon head to the coast to enjoy a sunlit stroll down the Corniche or even visit a nearby beach. Starting from Saida along to the Byblos area people love eating fish right from the sea and there are some excellent restaurants in which to join them – you can even see the fishermen delivering their catch to the restaurants straight from the boat.

Coastal places such as Amchit in the north are also known for after-dark beach parties, but most of the evening action happens in the centre of town. Head back to where you started when dusk falls and find the Gemmayzeh neighbourhood ready to receive thousands of revellers. From here take your pick from any of the establishments and you are sure to find one that suits. After hours the Sky Bar and B 018 – an underground bunker style building in the former civil war zone with a retractable roof – are the city’s premier clubs.

Opposite page (clockwise from top): Beirut’s National Museum is a good place to delve into the region’s rich history; Sojuk Flambe is a local specialty; there’s no shortage of outdoor restaurants in Beirut’s central business district; Byblos is one of the world’s longest continuously inhabited cities; The Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, located in Martyrs’ Square, was officially opened in 2008; Souk el Tayeb is an organic food market; Ottoman clock tower in Parliament Square; The limestone formation of Pigeon Rock, seen from the Raouche area, is one of Beirut’s most famous sights.

CORBIS

48hours

48hours TRAVEL INFORMATION Beirut has good summers with very little rain. It’s hot from May through to November and temperatures can occasionally reach 41ºC, but generally stay around 30-35ºC. The winter months from December to April boast frequent rain and the average low temperature is around 10ºC. For winter visitors February is ideal as the ski season is in full swing and the weather can be sunny. Currency is the Lebanese pound. (US$1 = LBP1,538 approximately).

GETTING THERE EMIRATES flies 17 times a week between Dubai and Beirut. Visit emirates.com or emirates-holidays. com for further information.

RESOURCES The following websites offer comprehensive information and directories: downtownbeirut.com and discoverlebanon.com FURTHER READING A HEDONIST’S GUIDE TO BEIRUT by Ramsay Short is a concise and practical guide to the city.

The new Le Gray hotel has quickly become one of Beirut’s most stylish meeting places. Bar 360 is named after its phenomenal view over the city.

WHERE TO STAY There has been a building boom in Beirut and new steel and glass skyscrapers stand next to weathered and beaten old stone buildings. Recently completed is the Four Seasons, which overlooks the Mediterranean and boasts 230 rooms and suites and a rooftop pool lounge. Expect to pay around $375 per night, depending on the season.

Another relatively new hotel is the superb and stylish Le Gray hotel. The highly respected hotelier Gordon Campbell Gray has created a boutique property with 87 rooms and suites in the historic downtown. The hotel is laden with contemporary works of art handpicked by Campbell Gray and its restaurants and bars have become ultra-cool hotspots. Doubles start at $395.

For old world-style the Albergo boutique hotel exudes charm with luxury and personable service.

Located in Achrafiye it’s also great for nearby bars and restaurants. A standard room is $280.

WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK There’s plenty of European cuisine and naturally Lebanese food is widely available and almost universally excellent. Other cuisines can be sought out ranging from Pan-Asian to Japanese-Spanish fusion. Be sure to sample a local mezze – an array of small dishes such as tabouleh, fattoush, hummus, baba ghanoush and moutabal that comprise all sorts of colours, flavours, textures and aromas. Skewered meats and seafood are served with an array of spices and herbs, while fruits and baklava are

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SEE LEBANON by Bruce Conde offers over one hundred selected trips with history and pictures.

FAST FACT There is no exact figure for the population of Beirut because the last population census taken in Lebanon was in 1932. The figure is estimated to be between one and two million.

typical desserts. Expect to toast with arak and be prepared for lots of coffee. Drinking thick, strong coffee is practically a national pastime.

TRIP TIP Local entrepreneur Kamal Mouzawak has created Beirut’s first farmers market. Open every Saturday the Souk el Tayeb is a great place to buy some organic artisanal breads, jam, natural produce and more. After enjoying the market visit Mouzawak’s restaurant Tawlet on Naher Street. Translating as ‘table’, Tawlet brings a new chef daily from a different Lebanese region to cook local favourites.

MUST DO Numerous publications and websites have consistently given Sky Bar the vaunted accolade of ‘The Best Venue in the World’ and as such it regularly plays host to international stars, dignitaries, VIPs, eager tourists and über cool locals. It’s a huge open-air rooftop club in Biel with stunning panoramic views of the Mediterranean coastline. A visit is a must for the view alone and it’s a good idea to book ahead as the entry policy is selective. ❖

dubaidiary

THE HOT LIST The best nightlife, spas and restaurants.

SPAS

UPCOMING EVENTS With the summer heat slowly easing off, why not take advantage of these great hotel promotions.

Armani/Spa Just as the luxury brand tailors designer clothes, so the new Armani spa tailors your spa experience. Three types of expert treatment either relieve pain, invigorate or soothe – choose and loose yourself for a while.

The Burj Khalifa, 1 Emaar Boulevard, Downtown Dubai, Tel: +971 4 888 3888

Taj Spa Combining Far Eastern, European and American health expertise, an experience at this five-star spa will be beneficial in every sense. Taj specialises in authentic Ayurvedic treatments but also offers aromatherapy, hydrotherapy, thalassotherapy and phytotherapy. Highly recommended.

Taj Palace Hotel, Al Rigga Rd, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 223 2222

Bodylines Fitness Centre Spa This spa prides itself on not using machinery, only highly skilled therapists performing a range of body wraps and massages.

The popular Aroma Plasty treatment feeds the skin with all the essential nutrients that your face needs.

Al Murooj Rotana Hotel, Al Saffa Street, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 321 1111

BRUNCHES Zuma When brunches resume once more you would be hard pushed to find a better place to visit than Zuma. With a new director of operations in Ajaz Sheikh, the excellent cuisine and über cool atmosphere continues to attract in droves.

DIFC, Dubai, 12.30pm to 4pm, Dhs495, Tel: +971 4 425 5660

Thai Kitchen This great restaurant offers a superb brunch with its open kitchens, friendly and attentive service, beautiful interiors and a plethora of delicious tantalising tastes. It’s also possibly the best value in the city.

Park Hyatt Dubai, Deira, 12pm to 4pm, Dhs225, Tel: +971 4 602 1234

Belgian Beer Café With a real European pub feel, this brunch gets very busy and lively in no time. There is a buffet and Belgian à la carte and once the heat cools off, the terrace is a great spot to let dinner digest and enjoy a few drinks.

Crowne Plaza, Dubai Festival City, 1pm to 4pm, Dhs199, Tel: +971 4 701 1128

RESTAURANTS Peppercrab The signature dish at Peppercrab is, unsurprisingly, a huge crab in an almost addictive black pepper sauce. Enjoy getting messy with an apron and dining tools. The rest of the menu boasts a delicious range of Singaporean seafood.

Grand Hyatt, Garhoud, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 317 2222

Azur This all-day dining restaurant at Raffles offers an international buffet covering Pan-Arabic and Asian dishes plus a mouth-watering a la carte menu.

The crisp white interior, equestrian-themed waiters uniforms and views of the botanical gardens provide a lovely setting for any meal.

Raffles Dubai, Sheikh Rashid Road, Wafi, Tel: + 971 4314 9888

AOC French Brasserie Set in a large, light-flooded room with a terrace affording a beautiful sea view, this Gallic addition to the food scene is both reasonably priced and relaxed, yet with a high standard of cuisine. The a la carte menu has something for all.

Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach, Dubai Marina, Tel: +971 4 448 4848

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THE PALACE – THE OLD TOWN With cooler weather the idea of having a picnic will soon be good one. Chef Norberto from the fantastic Asado restaurant will be demonstrating the art of creating a perfect picnic lunch. In the evenings Asado is also hosting a tango night with a special tango menu and interactive dancing performances. Follow any exertion with a new concept of combining your preferred spa experiences.

The 60 Minute Wonder offers three treatments, each performed for 20 minutes, to complete an hour of blissful relaxation. theaddress.com/en/hotel/ the-palace-old-town Tel: +971 4 428 7888 THE FAIRMONT Experience the original Dubai ‘brunch in the city’ combined with renowned accommodation and gracious Fairmont hospitality. The Fairmont is offering a special brunch package with accommodation included. Enjoy a night in a newly refurbished Fairmont Room and Friday Brunch for two adults in the award-winning Spectrum on One. You even get an early check-in and late check-out. fairmont.com/dubai Tel: +971 4 332 5555 WRITTEN EXCLUSIVELY FOR EMIRATES MAGAZINE.

BY THE EDITORS OF

coolstuff

GET FIT GADGETS

2

Our pick of the best fitness gear to get you fitter, faster, stronger and better.

1

GARMIN FORERUNNER 310XT | US$480 | garmin.com

Like a wrist-mounted personal trainer with sat-nav and a scuba suit, Garmin’s Forerunner 310XT is an all-inone GPS-enabled speed, distance, heart rate and calorie counter that’s waterproof up to 50 metres. Unlike the soon-to-be you, it’s a rather chunky customer, but fortunately it’s fairly light too.

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SENNHEISER CX380 SPORT II | US$80 | sennheiser.com

Most sport earphones require ear-bashing volume to drown out your thumping feet, or the person wheezing and panting on the running machine next to you. But the CX380’s bring noise isolation and plenty of bass to your run, saving you the earache. They rinse clean with water too, handy after a particularly sweaty session.

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1

NIKE DRI-FIT RACE DAY NO SEW TOP | US$70 | nike.com

A proper sports top should cling to your chest and wick moisture away from your body. Making you look good while exercising at full pace, that’s a bonus. This Nike Race Day top fits tight against your body, so it doesn’t flap, rub or rasp your skin, and the mesh back will keep you cool in the hottest of gyms.

4

SPEEDO BIOFUSE POWER PADDLE | US$30 | speedo.com

If you’re looking to give Michael Phelps a swim for his money at the next Olympics, you’re going to need some serious training. These Speedo Biofuse Power Paddles should do the trick, wearing them increases water resistance giving you a higher impact workout.

5

ADIDAS SUPERNOVA GLIDE | US$120 | adidas.com

A cushioned ride means less impact, reducing risk of injury and keeping your feet safe and secure. And thanks to the Glide’s Formotion tech, these runners do just that. These high-mileage, low-weight trainers adapt to the ground you run on, making each footfall as smooth as possible to maintain your momentum.

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departure

JAPAN ●

Nagoya ● Osaka

Tokyo

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● Jomon

Sugi

Jomon Sugi LATITUDE: 30° 20’ 79” LONGITUDE: 130° 31’ 25”

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CO-ORDINATES ARE FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY.

J

omon Sugi is a renowned Japanese Red Cedar found on Yakushima Island in Kyushu, Japan. It is a vast tree standing 25.3 metres tall, with a trunk circumference of 16.2 metres and a total volume of approximately 300 cubic metres – making it the largest conifer in Japan. The tree was discovered in 1968 and gave rise to the island’s tourist industry, which comprises more than half of its economy. However, the tree is carefully guarded against visitor damage and after the site was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 an observation deck was built 15 metres from the tree. There is an established custom for visitors to carry a handful of soil to the tree to restore erosion.

Estimates on the exact age of this National Monument of Japan vary, but most experts agree that it is at least 5,000 years old. ❖

Emirates News ■

Emvironment

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Comfort in the Air

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U.S. Customs & Immigration Forms

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Route Map

USA, Here We Come!

Emirates will shortly boost its services to the USA by doubling its flights to Los Angeles and Houston. The current daily flights to each of these major cities will shortly become double dailies – Los Angeles on 31st October and Houston on 1st November.

This will bring the total of return flights from Dubai to the USA to 98 each week, with more than 15,000 seats on offer.

Services will be operated with Boeing 777 aircraft. Passengers will enjoy the highest standards of comfort, with luxurious private suites in First Class, lie-flat beds in Business Class and generously sized Economy Class seats.

Emirates currently flies nonstop to four US cities: New York, Houston, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Venice Beach, Los Angeles.

September 2010

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Emirates news

Passengers on Emirates A380s can look forward to full mobile and internet connectivity while in flight, thanks to an agreement the airline has concluded with OnAir. The first fully equipped A380 will come into service in June 2012. Full connectivity will be installed on every existing Emirates A380, starting early 2011. Passengers will then be able to use their mobile phones, smartphones and BlackBerry devices to make and receive phone calls, send and receive text messages and emails, and access the internet, just as they do on the ground. They will also be able to use iPods and iPads.

“We decided to install a full set of inflight connectivity services because we firmly believe in

PHOTO COURTESY: ONAIR

Complete Inflight Connectivity on A380 Aircraft

providing our customers with the real-time access to information that they demand,” said Tim Clark, President Emirates Airline.

Emirates has chosen the SwiftBroadband technology, a powerful platform combining cockpit and cabin communications. Geneva-based OnAir is owned jointly by Airbus and SITA, the airlineowned provider of IT solutions and communications services for the air transport industry.

Emirates is set to provide full mobile and internet connectivity on all its A380s.

Extra Services to Saudi

Emirates self-service check-in kiosk at Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall metro station.

Check-in on the Metro Emirates passengers en route to Dubai International Airport can now check-in at Dubai Metro stations, thanks to self-service kiosks, which have been installed at three of them: Mall of the Emirates, Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall and Financial Centre on the Metro’s Red Line.

Check-in at Metro stations should be done at least two hours prior to the flight departure time. Passengers need their reservation code, ticket number or Skywards membership number to access the service.

They can then select their seats and print their own boarding pass. Passengers are allowed to carry up to two pieces of luggage each on the Metro, provided the first piece does not exceed 81 x 58 x 30cms and the second 55 x 38 x 20cms.

On arrival at Terminal 3, passengers with hand luggage only can proceed directly to Immigration, while those with baggage can check-in their luggage at dedicated baggage drop counters.

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Emirates is adding a total of 129 extra services to and from Jeddah and Riyadh during August, September and October to meet the high demand throughout Ramadan and Eid for travel to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

Some 75 additional flights will operate to and from Jeddah throughout August and September, with Riyadh receiving 54 extra services up to the end of October. With one of the largest fleets in the world, Emirates has the capacity and the resources to connect travellers, through Dubai, to the Kingdom easily and efficiently.

The new flights will be serviced using a mix of Airbus A330 and Boeing 777 aircraft, some in two-class and some in threeclass configuration.

Reaching out to children in need Please use the envelope onboard to make a donation.

You can read about our projects in the onboard newsletter, on the inďŹ&#x201A;ight entertainment system and on our website emiratesairlinefoundation.org

How to Donate Your Skywards Miles If you are a Skywards member you can donate your Miles by logging onto skywards.com Donations can be made in multiples of 2,500 Miles. Donated Miles are used to transport healthcare professionals and other volunteers working on humanitarian missions around the world.

Emirates news

Summer Route Launches

Picturesque Goree Island, which lies a 30-minute ferry ride away from Dakar’s port.

Emirates rounded off a summer of new route launches this month when its new service to Dakar, capital of Senegal, took off on 1st September.

Flights to the West African destination are operated every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday with an Airbus A340-300 in a three-class configuration. They connect seamlessly to key centres in the Middle East, the Indian Sub-continent, Asia and the Far East.

Engine Order for the B777s Emirates signed agreements at Farnborough Air Show, worth nearly US$8 billion in total, with General Electric and the Engine Alliance for engines to power the latest Boeing 777-300ER and Airbus A380 aircraft orders.

Emirates had earlier announced orders for 30 more Boeing 777-300ER and 32 Airbus A380 aircraft.

The 30 B777s will be powered by GE90-115B engines. That order, including spares, is valued at US$2 billion at list prices. Emirates has also signed a maintenance agreement worth more than US$1 billion.

For the 32 Airbus A380s, Emirates has selected the Engine Alliance GP7200 engines.

This deal also includes an agreement for maintenance, overhaul and repair. The total value of the agreement, including spare engines, is approximately US$4.8 billion.

A380s Flying Further

Team photo - His Highness Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline & Group (lower right) joins Adriano Galliani, Deputy Chairman and Managing Director of AC Milan (lower centre), Adidas Managing Director Jean Michel Granier (lower left) and the AC Milan team for a group shot on the steps of an Emirates A380, specially fitted with a giant version of the new AC Milan Fly Emirates shirt.

Airbus Gets Shirty An Emirates A380, adorned with a sticker in the form of a giant AC Milan shirt, swooped down on Malpensa Airport for the official unveiling of the Fly Emirates AC Milan shirt.

Emirates first signed a sponsorship agreement with AC Milan in September 2007. The following year, the relationship was elevated to Top Institutional Sponsor.

Other teams sponsored by Emirates include Paris Saint Germain Football Club in France, Hamburger SV in Germany, Olympiacos FC in Greece, and Arsenal in the UK. Emirates also holds Official Partner status for the FIFA World Cup™.

66

Open Skies

At the start of this month, Manchester became the latest city on the Emirates network to be served by the A380. Next month, Emirates will return the superjumbo to the New York route and it will operate daily to Hong Kong from Dubai as EK384 via Bangkok.

Last month, China welcomed the arrival of the country’s first scheduled Airbus A380 when Emirates flight EK306 touched down at Beijing’s Capital International Airport.

Meanwhile, an Emirates A380, as reported last month, made a one-off special flight into Indira Ghandi Airport’s new Terminal 3 in New Delhi. Emirates thus became the first international carrier to touch down a commercial A380 on Indian soil.

The Airbus A380 is the most environmentally advanced commercial aircraft in the world, its lighter and stronger structure results in as much as 20 per cent less fuel burn per seat than today’s largest aircraft types. (Low fuel burn means lower CO2 emissions.)

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Emvironmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (definition): Emiratesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; environmental programme â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a wide range of initiatives aimed at continuously improving our environmental performance.

In the air and on the ground, the Emirates Group is committed to acting sustainably in the interests of our customers, our business, the natural environment and the 100 plus destinations that we serve worldwide. The Group has already achieved numerous environmental milestones â&#x20AC;&#x201C; each month we will bring you the latest news of our efforts and commitment towards eco-efficiency and sustainability. In this edition we look at Emiratesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; new order of 30 Boeing 777-300ER aircraft.

Boeing 777-300ER

OUR GREEN WORKHORSE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; THE BOEING 777-300ER â&#x20AC;&#x201C; FLYING FASTER, FURTHER, MORE EFFICIENTLY Emiratesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; recently-announced order of 30 additional Boeing 777 aircraft at the Farnborough Airshow is significant on a number of levels, not least because this further strengthens Emiratesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; position as the largest operator of this aircraft type in the world. But one aspect which is often over-looked is the environmental benefits the new aircraft will deliver.

Most passengers may not realise that the type and age of an aircraft directly influences the amount of emissions it releases into the atmosphere. Like modern car engines, ultra modern aircraft engines are over 20 per cent more efficient today than those of 15 years ago.

At Emirates, we have one of the youngest fleets in the world. The average age of our aircraft is just over five years â&#x20AC;&#x201C; compared to the global average of more than 11 years.

As a result, our fleetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s average fuel efficiency and CO2 emissions are more than 30 per cent better than the global fleet average (as measured by ICAO â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the International Civil Aviation Organisation).

Emiratesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fleet of 65 twin-engine Boeing 777 aircraft powered by GE90 engines will emit 572,000 fewer tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions than similar aircraft types with four engines â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the equivalent of removing 101,500 cars from the road, every year.

WORLD RECORD HOLDER The Boeing 777 is the workhorse of the Emirates fleet, with 86 currently in service. It is a long-range, wide body aircraft and holds the world record for the longest non-stop distance ever travelled by a commercial aircraft â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a whopping 22-hour 42-minute flight from Hong Kong to London.

Sixty-five of our Boeing 777s are powered by the General Electric GE90 engine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest jet engine. The Boeing 777 operates on two engines â&#x20AC;&#x201C; rather than four â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and it uses less fuel to create each kilo of thrust. This makes it much more efficient.

MAKING WAY FOR A NEW GENERATION OF AIRCRAFT Over the next decade, Emirates will retire more than 100 aircraft from our current fleet. These will include older Boeing 777-200s and Airbus A330-200s. Replacing these older aircraft with our new 777-300ERs, Airbus A350s and Airbus A380 super jumbos will ensure our fleetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s average age remains young, and our fuel efficiency and emissions performance is â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;best in classâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

Emiratesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; commitment to environmental protection is underpinned by our ongoing investment in the most modern, low noise and low emissions aircraft available.

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If you require any further information regarding our Emvironment programme, please go to the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;About Emiratesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; tab on emirates.com or email the Environment team at pea@emirates.com 68

Open Skies

Comfort in the air To help you arrive at your destination feeling fine and refreshed, Emirates have developed this collection of helpful travel tips.

Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you to enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY

DURING THE FLIGHT

❖ Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. ❖ Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? ❖ Get a good nights rest before the flight. ❖ Eat lightly and sensibly.

❖ Sucking and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. ❖ Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. ❖ Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. ❖ Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

AT THE AIRPORT

WHEN YOU ARRIVE

❖ Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. ❖ Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. ❖ Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

❖ Try some light exercise or read if you can’t sleep after arrival at your destination. It generally takes the body’s biological clock approximately one day to adjust per time zone crossed.

SMART TRAVELLER

Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

Loosen your clothing, remove your jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body that constricts your blood circulation.

Light exercises on your lower legs and calf muscles encourages blood flow and helps reduce muscle fatigue and swelling in the feet.

Carry only essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal therefore we recommend that you wear glasses during flights.

Apply a good quality skin moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out due to the drier cabin air.

FOR MORE TIPS AND ADVICE TO HELP YOU TO ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT AND ARRIVE AT YOUR DESTINATION FEELING FRESH, LOOK OUT FOR MESSAGES ON AIRSHOW, OR REFER TO YOUR INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT GUIDE FOR PROGRAMME DETAILS. September 2010

69

Guide to US customs & immigration forms Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re travelling to, or through, the US today this simple guide to completing the US customs and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey is as smooth and hassle free as possible.

The Cabin Crew will offer two forms when nearing your destination. Here we provide simple guidelines on correctly completing the forms.

CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

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Open Skies

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â?&#x2013; Complete the forms prior to landing. â?&#x2013; Use a pen and write in capital letters. â?&#x2013; Complete every line. â?&#x2013; Ensure you write in the correct space. â?&#x2013; If you are in transit through the US, write â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;transitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in the address field. â?&#x2013; If you make a mistake ask a member of Cabin Crew for a fresh form.

IMMIGRATION FORM The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival/Departure Record) should be completed if you are a non-US citizen in possession of a valid US visa and your final destination is the US or if you are in transit to a country outside the US. A separate form must be completed for each person, including children travelling on their parentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; passport. The form includes a Departure Record which must be kept safe and given to your airline when you leave the US. If you hold a US or Canadian passport, US Alien Resident Visa (Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a valid ESTA (see below) YOU ARE NOT REQUIRED to complete an immigration form.

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ESTA (ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION)

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If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the US under the Visa Waiver Programme it is now mandatory to apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) at least 72 hours prior to your departure.

m

ESTA Facts: â?&#x2013; Children and infants require an individual ESTA.

o

â?&#x2013; The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

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â?&#x2013; A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

Apply online at www.cbp.gov/esta a b

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Cabin Crew will be happy to help if you need assistance completing the forms.

Nationalities eligible for the Visa Waiver*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**. *Subject to change. **Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Programme.

September 2010

71

Routes emirates now flies to more than 100 destinations GREENLAND GREENLAND

Western Western Europe Europe Gothenburg Gothenburg

Kristiansand Kristiansand SCOTLAND SCOTLAND

Falkenberg

Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Edinburgh Newcastle Newcastle Sunderland Sunderland

DENMARK

Nykobing

N. IRELAND N. IRELAND ENGLAND ENGLAND Leeds Leeds IRELAND IRELAND Liverpool Liverpool Dublin Dublin

Poiters

Baker Lake

Baker Lake

Lugo

Rankin Inlet

Vigo

Fort Chipewyan Fort Chipewyan

Churchill

Kamloops

Calgary

Williston

Spokane Spokane Seattle

Seattle

Butte

Butte

Lugo

Burgos ANDORRA Burgos ANDORRA

Vigo

PORTUGAL PORTUGAL Lisbon Lisbon Valdepenas

Inukjuak

Moosonee

Duluth

Minneapolis Minneapolis

Twin Falls

Tucson San DiegoSan Diego

Dallas

Tucson

Valencia

Lul

Oslo

Taranto

Gothenburg Gothenburg SCOTLAND SCOTLAND DENMARKDENMARK Copenhagen Co Glasgow Glasgow

NewcastleNewcastle N. IRELAND N. IRELAND Gd ENGLANDENGLAND Hamburg Hamburg POLAND NETH. NETH. Manchester Manchester Birmingham Birmingham U. K. U. K. IRELAND IRELAND WALES WALES GERMANYGERMANY London London DusseldorfDusseldorf Kr Frankfurt Frankfur Paris Paris AUSTRIA AU Munich Munich Zurich Zurich Nantes Nantes Vienna SWITZ. SWITZ. FRANCE FRANCE Venice Ve Milan Milan Bayonne BayonneNice Nice ITALY ITALY SER

MONTENEG

Zaragoza Zaragoza Madrid Madrid PORTUGAL PORTUGAL SPAIN SPAIN Ponta Delgada Ponta Delgada Lisbon Lisbon Sevilla Sevilla Gibraltar Gibraltar Algiers Rabat Rabat

Casablanca Casablanca

Atlanta

Reggane

WESTERNWESTERN SAHARA SAHARA

CUBA

DOM. REP.DOM. REP.

JAMAICA JAMAICA BELIZE BELIZE HAITI HONDURAS HONDURAS

P A PC AI FCIICF I C O C OE C A EN A N

LIBYA

Araouane

Dakar Dakar

Georgetown Georgetown VENEZUELA VENEZUELA Paramaribo PANAMA PANAMA Paramaribo Bogota BogotaGUYANA GUYANA FRENCH GUIANA FRENCH GUIANA SURINAMESURINAME COLOMBIA COLOMBIA Quito Quito ECUADORECUADOR

PERU Trujillo

Sochi

Varna Burgas

Istanbul Bursa Izmir

Zonguldak Istanbul

Zonguldak

Tbilisi Poti Tbilisi

Ankara Bursa Ankara Yerevan TURKEY TURKEY

Yerevan

Izmir

Antalya

Antalya Adana Nicosia

Tabriz

Adana Aleppo

Aleppo Mosel

Nicosia SYRIA

Baku

Ardabil Tabriz

Mosel

Iraklion

SYRIA

Alexandria

Jerusalem Jerusalem Alexandria

IRAQ Port Said JORDAN JORDAN

Suez Cairo Cairo Port Said

TehranTehran Mashhad

IRAN

Goiania

Antofagasta

CHILE

Goiania

Campinas Campinas Rio De Janeiro Rio De Janeiro PARAGUAY PARAGUAY Curitiba Curitiba Asuncion Asuncion

São Paulo São Paulo

Herat

Concepcion

Neuquen Valdivia

Atbara

SUDAN

Atbara

Khartoum Khartoum Asmara Al Fashir

SAUDI ARABIA SAUDI ARABIA

Port Sudan

Mekele

Al Ghaydan Sana’aSana’a

Asmara

YEMEN

Mekele Taizz Aseb Aseb

Djibouti

Djibouti

Al Ghaydan Salalah

YEMEN

Al Mukalla Taizz

OMAN

Al Mukalla

De GABON GABON CO BrazzavilleBrazza

O C OE C A EN A N

Kinshas

Luanda Luanda

Huambo

ANGOLA

NAMIBIA NA

Windhoek Walvis BayWalvis Bay

Johanne Jo Luderit

Luderitz

Rosario Rosario URUGUAYURUGUAY Santiago Santiago ARGENTINA ARGENTINA Buenos Aires Buenos Aires Montevideo Montevideo Neuquen

Comodoro Rivadavia Comodoro Rivadavia

OMAN Salalah

Port Stanley Port Stanley

Bilm

NIGERCHAD

Salvador Salvador Brasilia

Belo Horizonte Belo Horizonte

Mashhad Herat

Barreiras

Porto Alegre Porto Alegre

Kerman Kerman Concepcion Zahedan Zahedan Shiraz Bam Bam

Basra

Sucre

Brasilia Cuiaba

Recife

Nukus

Dammam Dammam Bandar AbbasBandar AbbasValdivia Bahrain Bahrain Al Medinah Al Medinah Aswan Doha Doha RiyadhRiyadh Muscat Muscat Mecca Mecca Jeddah Jeddah Al Khaluf Al Khaluf

Port Sudan

Al Fashir

La Paz

Cuiaba

Recife

Barreiras

EGYPT Aswan

SUDAN

Basra

Shiraz KuwaitKuwait

Suez

Beni Beni El-Minya SuefEl-Minya Suef

EGYPT

IRAQ

Nukus

BRAZIL

Bilma

NIGER

EQUATORIALEQUATORIAL GUINEA GUINEA SAO TOME & SAO PRINCIPE TOME & PRINCIPE REPUBLIC OF Libreville Libreville CONGO Sao Tome Sao Tome

Belem Fortaleza Fortaleza

Cachimbo

BOLIVIA BOLIVIA

Antofagasta Baku TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN CHILE Ardabil Ashgabat Ashgabat

Bakhtaran Bakhtaran Beirut Beirut Damascus Damascus IRAN Amman Amman Baghdad Baghdad Esfahan Esfahan

Iraklion

BRAZIL

Lima

Sucre Aqtau

Porto Velho Cachimbo

Araouane

LagosLagos Abidjan Abidjan Accra Accra Yaounde Yaoun

Sao Goncalo Sao Goncalo Porto Velho

La Paz

Sochi OrdzhonikidzeOrdzhonikidze Aqtau

Poti

PERU

Trujillo

Lima

Middle Middle EastEast Varna Burgas

Belem

Manaus

Talara

A

Niamey Niamey Bamako Bamako GAMBIA GAMBIA BURKINA FASO BURKINA FASO NIGERIA NIGERIA N’Djame GUINEA BISSAU GUINEA BISSAU GUINEA GUINEA BENIN BENIN Abuja GHANA GHANA Abuja Conakry Conakry TOGO TOGO COTE COTE Freetown Freetown Porto Novo Porto Novo CENTRAL D'IVOIRE D'IVOIRE SIERRA LEONE SIERRA LEONE REPU Lome Lome CAMEROON CAMEROON LIBERIA LIBERIA Ba Malabo Malabo

Caracas Caracas

Manaus

Djanet

MAURITANIA MAURITANIA

COSTA RICA COSTA RICA

Talara

Sabhah

Reggane

MALI

Nouakchott Nouakchott SENEGAL SENEGAL

HAITI

GUATEMALA GUATEMALA NICARAGUA NICARAGUA EL SALVADOR EL SALVADOR

Ouargla Tripoli Tripoli

Djanet

MALI CUBA

Rome Naples ALBA Na

ALGERIA ALGERIA

Tampa

Havana

Rome

Tunis Tunis Athe Algiers Malta TUNISIA TUNISIA

Ouargla MOROCCOMOROCCO

Canary Islands Canary Islands

THE BAHAMAS THE BAHAMAS

Mexico City Mexico City

Oslo StockholmStoc

Valencia

A T LA AT LN AT N I CT I C

New York New York

Tampa Houston Houston

Ostersund

NORWAY NORWAY

Torshavn Torshavn

Naples Taranto

Valdepenas

Jacksonville Jacksonville New Orleans New Orleans

Havana

SWED

Skelleftea

YUGOSLAVIAYUGOSLAVIA

Montreal Montreal Ottawa

Ottawa

Toronto Toronto

Dallas Atlanta Birmingham Birmingham

MEXICO MEXICO

K

HUNGARY HUNGARY SLOVENIA Zagreb Zagreb

Rome Rome

Naples

Amos

ToledoToledo

San Francisco San Francisco Los Angeles Los Angeles

Marseille

Moosonee

Amos Timmins

MilwaukeeMilwaukee Detroit Detroit Buffalo Buffalo Boston Boston Scottsbluff ScottsbluffChicago Chicago Omaha Omaha Provo Provo Reno Reno Baltimore Baltimore Kansas City Kansas City Philadelphia Philadelphia Denver Denver U. S. A. St. U. S. A. St. Louis Oakland Oakland Washington Washington D. C. D. C. Louis Norfolk Norfolk Charlotte Charlotte Albuquerque Albuquerque Memphis Memphis Las Vegas Las Vegas Twin Falls

Marseille

CANADA CANADA

Brandon

Duluth

Portland Portland

SLOVENIA

Geneva

Labrador City Labrador City

Timmins Grand Forks Grand Forks

Williston

Geneva

Thompson

Calgary

Swift Current Swift Current Brandon

Poiters

Zaragoza Zaragoza Porto MadridMadrid S P A I N S P A I N

Churchill Inukjuak

Fort McMurrayFort McMurray Bear Lake Dawson CreekDawson Creek Thompson Grande PrairieGrande Prairie Flin Flon Flin Flon Prince Rupert Prince Rupert Prince Albert Prince Albert Prince Prince George George Red Deer Red Deer Saskatoon Saskatoon Bear Lake

Kamloops

Gdansk

Ljubljana Ljubljana ICELAND Lyon Milan ICELANDCROATIA Milan CROATIA I T A L Y I T A L Y Bordeaux Reykjavik Reykjavik Venice Venice BOSNIA BOSNIA Nuuk Nuuk Sarajevo Sarajevo Bayonne Bayonne Nice Toulouse Toulouse Monaco Nice Monaco Ancona Ancona Oviedo Oviedo

Porto

VancouverVancouver

Nykobing Gdansk

Hamburg Hamburg

Lyon Bordeaux

Rankin Inlet

Juneau

Varnamo

NETH. NETH. Manchester Manchester Berlin Berlin Birmingham Birmingham Rotterdam Rotterdam Amsterdam Amsterdam Cork Cork P O L A N DP O L A N D WALES WALES Wroclaw Wroclaw BELGIUM BELGIUM Dusseldorf Dusseldorf London London Brussels Brussels Breslau Breslau (Heathrow & Gatwick) (Heathrow & Gatwick) Frankfurt Frankfurt Prague Prague Luxembourg Luxembourg CZECH CZECH GERMANY GERMANY SLOVAKIA SLOVAKIA Morlaix Morlaix Paris Paris ViennaVienna Rennes Rennes Le Mans Le Mans Munich Joigny Joigny Munich Bratislava Bratislava AUSTRIA AUSTRIA LIECH. LIECH. Nantes Nantes Budapest Budapest Zurich Zurich FRANCE FRANCE SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND

Echo Bay Echo Bay

Juneau

Varnamo Falkenberg

DENMARK Copenhagen Copenhagen

B

SOU

Cape Town Cape To

A R AC RT C I CT I C

O C OE C A EN A N

From From thethe Flight Flight Deck Deck Nightfall in the East Unlike westbound flights where the sun is never in a hurry to set, on eastbound flights it cannot seem to wait. The combination of rapidly approaching night fall and the setting sun behind us creates a beautiful deep blue sky that seems to turn darker by the second.

While over Northern Africa returning to Dubai we aptly demonstrated this whilst swiftly passing a Boeing 737, a nearly full moon visible in that quickly darkening sky.

Khatanga

Volochanka

Alta

Alta

Antipayuta

Murmansk

a

Murmansk

Kiruna

Vorkuta

Norilsk Dudinka Dudinka Antipayuta

Lulea

Skelleftea

FINLAND rsund

aasa

Archangelsk Archangelsk

FINLAND

Syktyvkar

olm inn

Tallinn

Vologda St. Petersburg St. Petersburg

ESTONIA Novgorod

Kirov

Perm

Novgorod

Jaroslavl Jaroslavl Rostov Gorkiy GorkiyIzevsk

Riga Riga LATVIA LATVIARostov LITHUANIA Vilnius Vilnius

nhagen HUANIA

Minsk Minsk sk Gdansk OLAND Orol BELARUS BELARUS arsaw Warsaw

Kiev ow Lviv Krakow Lviv

Vologda Kirov

Moscow Moscow Kazan Tol Yatti

Voronez Saratov

Kazan Ufa

SverdlovskSverdlovsk Izevsk Chelyabinsk Chelyabinsk Omsk Ufa

Aktyubinsk

Bratsk Krasnojarsk Krasnojarsk

Irkutsk

Atbassar

Istanbul Istanbul

Balqash

Aralsk

Karamay

Alma Ata Alma Ata

AZERBAIJAN AZERBAIJAN

Nicosia Larnaca Larnaca Bakhtaran

Tashkent Tashkent Kashi TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN TAJIKISTAN TAJIKISTAN Ashgabat Ashgabat

IRAQTehran

IRAQ

Baghdad

hah

EGYPT

Jakutsk

Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskij Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskij Ulan Ude

Kashi Hotan

Peshawar Peshawar Kabul KabulIslamabad Islamabad

Qiemo Golmud

Esfahan

AFGHANISTAN AFGHANISTAN

LahoreLahore Delhi Delhi

Qiqihar

Baotou

Yumen

Qiqihar

Khabarovsk Juzno Sachalinsk Juzno Sachalinsk

Harbin JixiHarbin Jixi

Dalandzadagad Dalandzadagad Hami

C H I N A C H I Yumen N A Qiemo Hotan

Khabarovsk

Ulaanbaatar Ulaanbaatar

Changchun Changchun Jilin

Jilin Sapporo Sapporo Fuxin Benxi Benxi NORTH KOREA NORTH KOREA

Fuxin Baotou

BeijingBeijing Seoul Seoul

Pyongyang Pyongyang Yinchuan Yinchuan Dalian Dalian Sendai Sendai Xining XiningTaiyuan Taiyuan Golmud Qingdao Qingdao SOUTH KOREA SOUTH KOREA Lanzhou LanzhouKaifeng Kaifeng Xian Xian JAPAN JAPAN Mianyang Mianyang Hefei Hefei Chengdu Chengdu Huangshi Huangshi Yueyang Yueyang Zigong Zigong Wenzhou Wenzhou Dukou Dukou Fuzhou Fuzhou Guiyang Guiyang Xiamen Xiamen Shantou Shantou TAIWAN TAIWAN

Tokyo Tokyo OsakaOsaka

Shanghai Shanghai

Taipei Taipei Karachi Karachi Ahmedabad Ahmedabad DhakaDhaka Guangzhou Guangzhou Hong Kong Hong Kong Nagpur Nagpur MYANMAR MYANMAR Surat Surat Kolkata Kolkata SAUDI ARABIA SAUDI ARABIA Hanoi Hanoi LAOS LAOS BANGLADESH BANGLADESH OMAN OMAN Mumbai Mumbai Rangoon Rangoon Vientiane Vientiane CHAD YEMEN ERITREA ERITREA YEMEN Hyderabad Hyderabad THAILAND THAILAND VIETNAM VIETNAM Asmara Asmara Khartoum Khartoum Sanaa Sanaa INDIA INDIA ManilaManila SUDAN SUDAN Bangkok Bangkok Chennai Chennai Bengaluru Bengaluru PHILIPPINES PHILIPPINES DJIBOUTI DJIBOUTI Phnom Penh Phnom Penh ’Djamena Kozhikode Kozhikode Ho Chi Minh City Ho Chi Minh City SOMALIA SOMALIA Kochi Kochi Waw Waw Addis Addis AbabaAbaba SRI LANKA SRI LANKA NTRAL RICAN AFRICAN ETHIOPIA ETHIOPIA Thiruvananthapuram Thiruvananthapuram Colombo Colombo Davao Davao ICREPUBLIC BRUNEI BRUNEI ui Bangui Malé Malé Kuala Kuala Lumpur Lumpur UGANDA UGANDA MALAYSIAMALAYSIA KENYA KENYA UBLIC OF MogadishuMogadishu Singapore Singapore Eldoret Eldoret GO Entebbe Entebbe

LIBYA

Al Jawf Aswan

wf

Aswan

Muscat

Mecca

Muscat

Mecca

of Dem. of RWANDA RWANDA GO CONGO e BURUNDI BURUNDI

Nairobi Nairobi

Kinshasa Kananga

Kananga TANZANIATANZANIA

Dar esDar Salaam es Salaam Likasi

Likasi

MALAWI Huambo ZAMBIA ZAMBIA NGOLA Lusaka Lusaka

BIA

MALAWI

I

N

ID

NO

DN

OE

NS

EI

S A

I

P A PC AI FCIICF I C O C OE C A EN A N

A

Jakarta Jakarta

Seychelles Seychelles

PAPUA PAPUA NEW GUINEA NEW GUINEA Port Moresby Port Moresby

COMOROSCOMOROS

Lilongwe Lilongwe

Harare

Harare

TSWANA BOTSWANA ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE

Mauritius Mauritius

Antananarivo Antananarivo MADAGASCAR MADAGASCAR MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE Gaborone Gaborone Pretoria Pretoria Tolanaro Tolanaro Maputo Maputo Mbabane Mbabane emfontein Bloemfontein SWAZILAND SWAZILAND

ndhoek

burg annesburg

Durban Durban AFRICA SOUTH AFRICA

wn

Magadan

Bratsk

MONGOLIA Altay MONGOLIA

Urumqi Korla Hami

Basra Basra IRAN IRAN JORDAN JORDAN Multan Multan Cairo Shiraz Shiraz KUWAIT KUWAIT PAKISTANPAKISTAN Jaipur Jaipur Agra Agra EGYPT Allahabad Allahabad Riyadh Riyadh Varanasi Varanasi

Cairo

Bodaybo

Karamay

Urumqi Korla

Tehran

Bakhtaran

Esfahan Baghdad

Bodaybo

Sangar

Jakutsk

Irkutsk

Hovd Altay

Bishkek Bishkek KYRGYZSTANKYRGYZSTAN

LEBANONLEBANON SYRIA SYRIA

Hovd

Balqash

UZBEKISTAN UZBEKISTAN

ARMENIA ARMENIA es ALBANIA REECE GREECE Ankara Ankara Izmir IzmirTURKEY TURKEY Adana Adana

sAthens Malta Nicosia

Aralsk

GEORGIA

Mirnyj

Aktyubinsk

Qaraghandy Qaraghandy KAZAKHSTAN KAZAKHSTAN

VolgogradVolgograd

GEORGIA

Sangar

Mirnyj

Batagay

Novosibirsk Novosibirsk

Ulan Ude

MOLDOVAMOLDOVA Frunze Frunze Vienna ROMANIA ROMANIA eucharestBucharest KrasnodarKrasnodar ConstantaConstanta SERBIA

BULGARIA BULGARIA ONTENEGRO CEDONIA MACEDONIA

Batagay

Omsk

Rudnyy Atbassar

Saratov

A

Belaja Gora

Magadan

Kiev

UKRAINE UKRAINE

Belaja Gora

Igarka

Perm

Tol Yatti KuybyshevKuybyshevRudnyy

Orol Voronez

Norilsk

Captain Robert Scaddan Nizhnevartovsk Nizhnevartovsk Boeing 777 Flying with Emirates for 6 years and 8 months

Syktyvkar

Helsinki

ESTONIA

Volochanka

R U S S RI A U S S I A

Vaasa

Helsinki

Ust-Olenek

Vorkuta

Igarka

SWEDEN

Ust-Olenek

Khatanga

LESOTHO LESOTHO Umtata Umtata

IND I NI AD NI A N O C OE C A EN A N

Cairns Broome

Learmonth

Broome

Port Hedland Port Hedland Learmonth

Mackay

Alice Springs AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIA Carnarvon

Geraldton

Cairns

Tennant CreekTennant Creek

Carnarvon

Perth Perth

NEW CALEDONIA NEW CALEDONIA

Brisbane Brisbane

Geraldton

Port Elizabeth Port Elizabeth

Mackay

Alice Springs

Kalgoorlie

Cook Kalgoorlie

Cook

Bourke

Adelaide Adelaide

Bourke

Sydney Sydney Auckland Auckland

Canberra Canberra

Melbourne Melbourne

NEW ZEALAND NEW ZEALAND

Christchurch Christchurch

Graphic illustration Graphic illustration only, notonly, a complete not a complete representation representation or to scale. or to © 2010. scale.Emirates. © 2010. Emirates.

All rightsAll reserved. rights reserved.

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Invest in the French Riviera Exclusive Holiday Homes Perched on a hillside 300 metres above the sea, these holiday homes in Vence, between Monaco and Cannes, offer breath-taking panoramic views of the spectacular surroundings. Only 15 minutes from Nice Côte d’Azur Airport, they are easily accessible while providing the ultimate in holiday pleasure.

Panoramic views of the sea, the old city and the mountains can be enjoyed from the 2,500 square metres of landscaped gardens of the villa located on a hillside just 1.5 kilometres from the city centre.

A mirror swimming pool outside and approximately 300 square metres of exceptional quality living space inside make this a truly spacious and luxurious four bedroom, four-bathroom home.

1,650,000

Designed to harmonize with their environment, the two bedroom penthouses feature large terraces facing the south for viewing the sea and the Cap d’Antibes. A lovely garden with swimming pool and underground parking will complete the new construction for a 2011 delivery date. It is situated only 500 metres in a very quiet area from the shops.

1,070,000

The Provençal style villa is a private retreat featuring gardens and terraces overlooking the sea with spectacular views of Cap d’Antibes and mountains, yet close to the city centre. Enjoy summer evenings in the pool or dining in the summer dining room complete with fitted kitchen. Perfect for entertaining with four bedrooms, including a massive Master suite, and brilliant lounge, dining room and more.

1,380,000

Located in a peaceful residential area facing the south with open views spanning from Cap Ferrat to Lerins Islands, the villa was built in 1987 in the Provençal style, offering the cosy warmth of solidarity.

With three bedrooms, three bathrooms and garage for three cars, it also features magnificent views from the landscaped grounds and the tiled 12 X 8 metre swimming pool. (Needs some refurbishment) 1,650,000

To view our full portfolio of exclusive residences from Monaco to Cannes visit: realimmo06.com

4 Place Du Mal Juin, B.P. 24, 06141, VENCE, FRANCE Tel +33 (0) 4 93 58 11 03 Fax +33 (0) 4 93 58 29 84 realimmo06@orange.fr

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‫ﻛﺎﻟﻴﺒﺮ دو ﻛﺎرﺗﻴﻴﻪ‬

‫ﺣﺮﻛﺔ ﻋﻴﺎر ‪ 1904‬إم ﺳﻲ ﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻓﻲ دار ﻛﺎرﺗﻴﻴﻪ‬ ‫اﻣﺘﺪ‬ ‫ﻓﺈن ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻛﺎﻟﻴﺒﺮ ‪ 1904‬إم ﺳﻲ ﻫﻲ ﺗﺠﺴﻴﺪ ﻟﺸﻐﻒ دار ﻛﺎرﺗﻴﻴﻪ ﺑﺄﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻘﺎﻳﻴﺲ اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺔ‪ ،‬وﻫﻮ ﺷﻐﻒ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻛﻤﺎ ُﻳﻮﺣﻲ اﺳﻤﻬﺎ‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫ﺗﺘﻤﻴﺰ »ﻛﺎﻟﻴﺒﺮ دو ﻛﺎرﺗﻴﻴﻪ« ﺑﺤﺮﻛﺔ أوﺗﻮﻣﺎﺗﻴﻜﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ ﻛﺎرﺗﻴﻴﻪ وﺗﻄﻮﻳﺮﻫﺎ‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ ﺑﺬﻟﻚ‬ ‫ﻋﻠﻰ أﻛﺜﺮ ﻣﻦ ﻗﺮن ﻣﻦ اﻟﺰﻣﺎن‪ .‬ﻛﻤﺎ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُﺗﻀﻔﻲ ﻣﺰﻳﺪاً ﻣﻦ روﻋﺔ اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻋﺮاﻗﺔ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺸﺘﻬﺮ ﺑﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ﻋﻴﺎر ﻛﺎرﺗﻴﻴﻪ ‪ 1904‬إم ﺳﻲ‬ ‫ﺣﺮﻛﺔ ﺑﺘﻌﺒﺌﺔ ذاﺗﻴﺔ أوﺗﻮﻣﺎﺗﻴﻜﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺻﻨﻊ ﻛﺎرﺗﻴﻴﻪ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻋﻠﺒﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ اﻟﺼﻠﺐ ﺑﻘﻄﺮ ‪ 42‬ﻣﻠﻢ‪،‬‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫داﺋﺮة ﻟﻌﻘﺮب اﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻧﻈﺎم ﺗﻌﺒﺌﺔ ﻳﻌﻤﻞ ﺑﺎﻻﺗﺠﺎﻫﻴﻦ(‪،‬‬ ‫ﻧﺎﺑﺾ ﻃﺎﻗﺔ ﻣﺰدوج‪،‬‬ ‫ﺮدد ‪ 28,800‬ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫)‪ 27‬ﺟﻮﻫﺮة‪َ ،‬ﺗ ّ‬ ‫ﺳﻄﺢ زﺟﺎﺟﻲ داﺋﺮي ﻣﻦ ﻛﺮﻳﺴﺘﺎل‬ ‫ﻣﻴﻨﺎء ﻣﻦ ا�وﺑﺎل ا�ﺳﻮد ﺑﻨﻘﺸﺔ داﺋﺮﻳﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫اﻟﺼﻠﺐ‪،‬‬ ‫اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ‬ ‫وﻣﻦ‬ ‫ا�ﺳﻄﺢ‬ ‫ﺳﺪاﺳﻲ‬ ‫زر اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫�‬ ‫َُ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻀﺎد ﻟﻠﺨﺪش‪.‬‬ ‫اﻟﺰﻓﻴﺮ‬ ‫ّ‬

‫دﺑﻲ‪ :‬دﺑﻲ ﻣﻮل ‪(٠٤) ٤٣٤ ٠٤٣٤‬؛ ﺑﻮﻟﻴﻔﺎرد أﺑﺮاج ا�ﻣﺎرات ‪(٠٤) ٣٣٠ ٠٠٣٤‬؛ ﻣﺮﻛﺰ ﺑﺮﺟﻤﺎن ‪(٠٤) ٣٥٥ ٣٥٣٣‬‬

‫‪cartier.com‬‬

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