Open Skies December 2011

is sue

e the consum

E V E R Y R O L E X I S M A D E F O R G R E AT N E S S . T H E YA C H T- M A S T E R I I H A S B EEN D E S I G NED TO MEE T THE NEED S O F PR O FE S S I O N A L S A ILO R S .

I T I S THE W O R L D’ S FI R S T CO MPL I C AT I O N B UILT W I TH A PAT EN TED PR O G R A MM A B L E COUN TD O W N A ND M ECH A N I C A L M EM O R Y, EN S UR IN G PER FEC T S Y N C HR O N I S AT I O N W I TH TH E S TA R T T I ME O F A N Y R EG AT TA .

the ya ch t- ma s te r ii

Australia. . . . . . . . . +61 2 8337 2791 Fiji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +679 672 2755 Guam. . . . . . . . . . . . +1671 646 6555 India . . . . . . . . . . . +91 11 2506 1567 Jordan . . . . . . . . . . +962 6 5684 771 Kuwait . . . . . . . . . . . +965 2473 5419

Thrifty Locations: Lebanon. . . . . . . . . . . +961 1510 100 Libya. . . . . . . . . . . +218 21 3332 230 Morocco. . . . . . . . +212 522 540 022 New Caledonia . . . . . +687 27 27 30 New Zealand . . . . . . +643 359 2721 Oman . . . . . . +968 2448 9248/9648

Š2011 A licensee of Thrifty Rent-A-Car System, Inc.. All rights reserved.

Papua New Guinea +1675 32 32333 Qatar. . . . . . . . . . . . . +974 4666 655 Seychelles. . . . . . . . . . +248 225 862 Turkey. . . . . . . . . . +90 212 465 3156 UAE Dubai . . . . . . . +971 4 224 5404 UAE Abu Dhabi . . . +971 2 599 8989

Earn 500 Skywards Miles per rental at all Thrifty locations

For a complete list of worldwide destinations, please visit thrifty.com

Insure your car and protect your family all at once

Introducing 24/7 Auto-Life (+50*»Z ÄYZ[ H\[V PUZ\YHUJL WSHU ^P[O H OHZZSL MYLL SPML PUZ\YHUJL \WNYHKL Find out how 24/7 Auto-Life can bring you complete and unconditional peace of mind at an incredible bargain by calling toll free 800 8040 or visiting www.adnic.ae Middle East Insurance Company of the Year 2009 & 2010 | Rated Strong A- by Standard & Poor’s | Rated A Excellent by A.M. Best | 2011 MEIF Insurance Company of the Year

Maxi Marine Diver Chronograph - 8006-102-3A/92 Self-winding movement. Water-resistant to 200 m.

18 ct rose gold case, rubber strap with rose gold elements.

Available on gold bracelet.

W W W . U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M

ULYSSE NARDIN BOUTIQUE, MALL OF THE EMIRATES +971 4 3950577 BINHENDI JEWELLERY, THE DUBAI MALL +971 4 4341421 ALSO AVAILABLE IN DUBAI DUTY FREE, DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT SOON TO OPEN: ULYSSE NARDIN BOUTIQUE, ZABEEL SARAY

Porsche Design FASHION

Ă&#x;1000 A statement of style: Porsche Design Fashion for men and women.

The Aviator Jacket. Made of Spanish Merinillo lambskin. www.porsche-design.com The Dubai Mall +971 4 4341415 | Mall of the Emirates +971 4 3410899 Mirdif City Centre +971 4 2843640 | Atlantis Hotel +971 4 4220311 Also Available in Dubai Duty Free +9714 2162453 | Soon to Open: Marina Mall, Abu Dhabi

www.facebook.com/porschedesign.pt

www.indonesia.travel

Mall of the Emirates 04 341 0630 | The Dubai Mall 04 434 1400

thin thinner razr The new MOTOROLA RAZR™ is the most captivating Androidpowered smartphone on the scene. Watch as heads turn to check out its ultra-thin form and stunning design, while the mind-blowing power of dual-core processing leaves you all aglow. Stream music, pics and more from your home or work computer – anytime, anywhere. In the light of day or dark of night, hyper-vibrant colours keep everything looking beautiful on the Super AMOLED Advanced 4.3” display. Go ahead. Get your hands on it. We won’t tell your other smartphone.

www.facebook.com/MotorolaME

www.twitter.com/MotorolaME

Certain features, services and applications are network dependent and may not be available; additional terms, conditions and/or charges may apply. MOTOROLA and the Stylised M Logo are registered trademarks of Motorola Trademark Holdings, LLC. © 2011 Motorola Mobility, Inc. KEVLAR® is a registered trademark of DuPont used under license by Motorola Mobility, Inc. All rights reserved. All other trademark and product or service names are the property of their respective owners.

360Ëš of enjoyment...

Witness and enjoy 360 degrees of unparalleled views of Dubai and beyond from the highest public observation terrace in the world, At the Top, Burj Khalifa.

Explore the unique, interactive Burj Khalifa multi-media exhibits. Explore the history of Dubai aboard the 65-metre-long travelator.

To experience all-round enjoyment, visit At the Top, Burj Khalifa.

For more information please call us on 800 At the Top, or visit www.atthetop.ae to purchase your tickets today.

EDITOR’S LETTER

T

his magazine is free. You probably know that already, but we just want to remind you in case someone tries to charge you for it. As you may or may not have guessed, this issue is dedicated to consumption; the consumption of ideas, of food, of fashion, of, well, anything really. We, of course, are

part of the problem, creating a magazine that (we hope) you want to read each month.

So we apologise for taking up even more of your precious time. So in that spirit, here’s what’s on offer in our December issue. If there

was ever a city that sucks in its visitors, it is Vienna.

And its most famous son is Mozart, himself no slouch when it came to creating an atmosphere. Kerry Christiani follows in the maestro’s footsteps around the Austrian capital. Brand guru and Time columnist Martin Lindstrom looks at the hidden motives of why we buy. Think synapses, genetics and other subconscious reasoning. It’s fascinating stuff, if a little bit scary. Just remember not to take those waist sizes for granted. It is not just humans that consume – nature does it too. And rarely has the beauty of the earth’s remote edges been captured so vividly as in Garry Simpson’s portraits. From eerie lakes in Texas to Finland’s frozen north, his work is stunning. Enjoy the issue.

CONOR@OPENSKIESMAGAZINE.COM

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact The Editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, ďŹ nancial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 282 4060 Fax:(+971 4) 282 4436 Email: emirates@motivate.ae

84,649 COPIES Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer GROUP EDITOR & MANAGING PARTNER Ian Fairservice GROUP SENIOR EDITOR (JOB +PIOTPO Ĺ&#x; HJOB!NPUJWBUF BF SENIOR EDITOR .BSL &WBOT Ĺ&#x; NBSLF!NPUJWBUF BF EDITOR $POPS 1VSDFMM Ĺ&#x; DPOPS! NPUJWBUF BF DESIGNER 3PVJ 'SBODJTDP Ĺ&#x; SPN!NPUJWBUF BF CHIEF SUB EDITOR *BJO 4NJUI Ĺ&#x; JBJOT!NPUJWBUF BF STAFF WRITER .BUUIFX 1SJFTU EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Londressa Flores SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER S Sunil Kumar PRODUCTION MANAGER C Sudhakar GENERAL MANAGER, GROUP SALES "OUIPOZ .JMOF Ĺ&#x; BOUIPOZ!NPUJWBUF BF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER /JDPMB )VETPO Ĺ&#x; OJDPMB!NPUJWBUF BF SENIOR ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER +BZB #BMBLSJTIOBO KBZB!NPUJWBUF ae ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Murali Narayanan ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER 4ISVUJ 4SJWBTUBWB EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES: &EJUPS 4JPCIBO #BSEFU "SBCJD &EJUPS )BUFN 0NBS %FQVUZ &EJUPS 4UFQIBOJF #ZSOF 8FCTJUF Ĺ&#x; FNJSBUFT com CONTRIBUTORS: 'BSPPR 4BMJR (BSFUI 3FFT 8BFM "M 4BZFHI .BSL 1PXFMM )( (FNNB $PSSFMM 1IJM 0I #FOKBNJO 'SFFMBOE 3PIJU .BUPP /JOB 4JFHBM &XPVU )VJCFST ,FSSZ $ISJTUJBOJ +FSSZ )PQLJOT .BSUJO -JOETUSPN (BSSZ 4JNQTPO Axis Maps, COVER ILLUSTRATION by Simone Massoni MASTHEAD DESIGN CZ 2VJOU Ĺ&#x; XXX RVJOUEVCBJ DPN

INTERNATIONAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES: AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND Okeeffe Media, Kevin O’ Keeffe; Tel + 61 89 447 2734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au, BENELUXM.P.S. Benelux; Francesco Sutton; Tel +322 720 9799, Fax +322 725 1522, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com CHINA Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 FRANCE Intermedia Europe Ltd; Fiona Lockie, Katie Allen, Laura Renault; Tel +33 15 534 9550, Fax +33 15 534 9549, administration@intermedia.europe.com GERMANY IMV International Media Service GmbH, Wolfgang Jäger; Tel +49 89 54 590 738, Fax +49 89 54 590 769, wolfgang.jager@iqm.de HONG KONG/MALAYSIA/ THAILAND Sonney Media Networks, Hemant Sonney; Tel +852 27 230 373, Fax +852 27 391 815, hemant@sonneymedia.com INDIA Media Star, Ravi Lalwani; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, Fax +91 22 2283 9619, ravi@mediastar.co.in ITALY IMM Italia Lucia Colucci; Tel +39 023 653 4433, Fax +39 029 998 1376, lucia.colucci@fastwebnet.it JAPAN Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, Fax +81 3 3541 4748, all@tandem-inc.com NETHERLANDS GIO Media, Giovanni Angiolini; Tel +31 6 2223 8420, giovanni@ gio-media.nl SOUTH AFRICA Ndure Dale Isaac; Tel +27 84 701 2479, dale@ndure.co.za SPAIN IMM International, Nicolas Devos; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imminternational.com TURKEY Media Ltd.; Tel: +90 212 275 51 52, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr UK Spafax Inflight Media, Nick Hopkins, Arnold Green; Tel +44 207 906 2001, Fax +44 207 906 2022, nhopkins@spafax.com USA Totem Brand Stories, Brigitte Baron, Marina Chetner; Tel +212 896 3846, Fax +212 896 3848, brigitte. baron@rtotembrandstories.com

31

CONTENTS

DECEMBER ���� OUR MAN IN EDMONTON GIVES US THE LOW�DOWN ON THIS REMOTE CANADIAN BOOMTOWN (P39)... WE TAKE A LOOK AT

HOLLYWOOD’S BEST FITNESS CLUBS VIA OUR TWITTER PITCH (P43)...

MOSCOW GETS MAPPED THIS MONTH AS WE EXPLORE THE RUSSIAN CAPITAL (P46)... BRAZILIAN DRUM & BASS LEGEND, DJ MARKY REVEALS HIS TOP TEN TUNES (P52)... COPENHAGEN’S COOLEST GET THE STREET PEEPER TREATMENT (P60)... AMSTERDAM’S RESTAURANT INDUSTRY HAS BEEN TRANSFORMED COURTESY OF A FORMER NIGHTCLUB (P64)... WE CHECK OUT SOME OF THE WORLD’S BEST MAGAZINES IN BOOTY (P66)... KERRY CHRISTIANI GOES ON THE MOZART TRAIL IN VIENNA, ONE OF EUROPE’S MOST BEAUTIFUL CITIES (P72)... GARETH REES EXAMINES THE MICHELIN GUIDE PHENOMENON AND WONDERS IF ITS STAR IS ON THE WANE (P94)...

BRANDING GURU THOMAS LINDSTROM EXAMINES THE GENETICS OF SHOPPING AND THE SCIENCE BEHIND WHY WE BUY (P106)... GARRY

SIMPSON’S HAUNTING PICTURES CAPTURE OTHERWORLDLY LANDSCAPES ACROSS THE GLOBE FROM TEXAS TO ICELAND (P118)...

33

CONTRIBUTORS

DJ MARKY: One of South America’s most successful musical exports, this Brazilian drum & bass DJ has pioneered the genre in his home country. Both his DJ sets and production work have gained plaudits from fans around the world.

MARTIN LINDSTROM: A columnist for Fast Company and Time magazine, Lindstrom is a best-selling author of numerous books on marketing. He was also featured in the Morgan Spurlock documentary, The Greatest Movie Ever Sold.

GARRY SIMPSON: One of the UK’s best photographers, Simpson’s cinematic take on landscapes and people have gained him a worldwide following. His shots of some of the planet’s most distant locations are particularly haunting.

KERRY CHRISTIANI: A travel writer based in Germany who has written for Lonely Planet, BBC Olive and Frommer’s, as well as authored 20 books. She currently lives in The Black Forest with her photographer husband.

NINA SIEGAL: Nina is the editor of Time Out Amsterdam and has written for publications such as The New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, W. Magazine and Bloomberg News. Her debut novel, A Little Trouble With The Facts, was published in 2008.

35

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time Pink gold case, sapphire case back, Girard-Perregaux automatic mechanical movement.

Annual calendar, equation of time, date, small second.

LEBANON - Girard-Perregaux Boutique Down Town Beirut Souks: +961 199 0956 KUWAIT - Ghadah: +965 240 0951 | KSA - Mouawad: Ryadh: +966 1 293 4555, Jeddah: +966 2 263 2636, Alkhobar: +966 3 894 5747 OMAN - Khimji Ramdas: +968 2 479 6161 | QATAR - Al Fardan: +974 440 8408 UAE - Al Fardan Jewellery: Abu Dhabi: +971 2 674 5000, Dubai: +971 4 351 1666 - Damas: Dubai: +971 4 445 9490 BAHRAIN - Rivoli: +973 1 717 8469 | IRAN - Tehran Watch Co: +98 212 261 3752 www.girard-perregaux.com

INTRO ØÞ º ¨

P. ÙÛ º OQUEQY CRRGF ÚÛ º historic gluttons

P. 62 º ¨

DUTCH GOLD LUB-

M’S C AMSTERDA STAURANT E TURNED -R ES MAKES WAV

P64

37

IWC Portuguese.

Engineered for navigators.

Always on course.

Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Ref. 3902 : “Please make a U-turn if possible.” The instruments used by sailors in the tradition of Vasco da Gama are less intrusive. One of the legends of navigation is the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Its IWC-manufactured movement with flyback function and automatic double-pawl winding guarantees precise landings. And even if you happen to head off in the wrong direction, no one’s going to start nagging you. IWC. Engineered for men.

Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement (figure) | Flyback function | Automatic IWC double-pawl winding system | Date display | Antireflective sapphire glass | Sapphire-glass back cover | Water-resistant 6 bar | Stainless steel

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUES: DUBAI MALL – Tel: 04 339 8111, BURJUMAN – Tel: 04 355 1717, ABU DHABI MARINA MALL - Tel: 02 681 1557 Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons: Atlantis - Tel: 04 422 0233, Mall of the Emirates – Tel: 04 341 1211, Dubai Duty Free – Tel Toll Free: 800 - 4443 Rivoli Prestige: Abu Dhabi Mall – Tel: 02 645 6220

OUR MAN IN

EDMONTON CANADA’S OIL CAPITAL IS ONE OF ITS MOST PARADOXICAL CITIES

Y

ou can tell a lot about a place from its traffic – and the capital city of Canada’s second westernmost province is no exception. On any given Friday night, Jasper Avenue – Edmonton’s main nightlife artery – is choked with brand-new pickup trucks driven by newly well-to-do blue collar men in their early 20s. Some are there for the weekend or on holiday from the northern oil and gas boomtown of Fort McMurray.

Others work downstream from the oil sands in ‘Refinery Row’ in the eastern suburb of Sherwood Park. All, however, have come to symbolise the ever-growing affluence of Canada’s ‘Oil Capital’ – a laissez-faire city where just about anything goes, provided you don’t criticise the oil sands.

Alberta’s oil sands (also known pejoratively as the ‘Tar Sands’) are a formidable presence in every sense.

Physically, the bitumen deposits situated under Alberta’s northern boreal forests are enormous, occupying a land mass roughly the size of Bangladesh and containing the world’s largest proven oil reserves after Saudi Arabia. In

economic terms they have turned Canada into a veritable oil and gas superpower and given Alberta a per-capita GDP higher than all 50 US states.

Unsurprisingly, international criticism of the province’s energy industry has become a decidedly sensitive matter. And nowhere is this truer than in Edmonton, a city whose mercurial economic fortunes have paralleled those of Alberta’s oil industry, and whose growing stature has in large part been made possible by the scarred, oil-rich real estate to the north of the city.

Alberta’s capital city is a paradoxical place. Founded in 1795 as a northern fur trading post, Edmonton emerged as a transportation gateway to northern Canada in the early 20th century, first to the diamond mines of the North-west Territories and later to Alberta’s burgeoning energy industry. To this day, Edmonton is seen more as a transit point than a destination, overshadowed at every turn by its flashier twin, Calgary, the province’s corporate and tourism hub. And yet the city surprises.

Nestled around a leafy bend in the

Saskatchewan River, Edmonton is home to 40 different arts and culture festivals, including its worldrenowned Fringe and Folk Festivals.

Its population is increasingly diverse, with a recent influx of immigrants from Africa and the country’s fastest growing Aboriginal population giving this oncepredominantly European city an increasingly multicultural flavour.

Tolerance extends only so far however. Controversy erupted earlier this year when it transpired that a documentary that criticised the exploitation of the oil sands had been funded in part by the Alberta government, leading the city’s normally mild mannered journalists and citizenry to cry blue murder.

Renowned Canadian humourist and Calgary native Will Ferguson once described his fellow Albertans as “a hospitable bunch as long as you don’t push your luck.” Nowhere does this better apply than to Edmonton – an oddly high-brow yet fundamentally blue collar metropolis where a live-and-let-live spirit prevails, so long as the city’s sacred economic cow is accorded its due respect.

Benjamin Freeland is a writer based in Edmonton, Canada. You can follow him at: www.twitter.com/benfreeland 39

GRAPH INFORMATION ELEGANCE

40

41

ILLUSTRATION: CATARINA ATUNES

DUBAI - Baume & Mercier Boutique, Dubai Mall, T: 04 339 8880.

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons - Mall of the Emirates, T: 04 341 1211 Burjuman Mall, T: 04 355 1717 - Atlantis Hotel, T: 04 422 0233 Mirdif City Centre, T: 04 284 3100 - Festival City, T: 04 232 9222 WaďŹ City, T: 04 324 6060. ABU DHABI - Al Manara Jewellery Hamdan Street, T: 02 626 2629. Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons Marina Mall, T: 02 681 1171.

TWITTER PITCH

LOS ANGELES

HEALTH CLUBS Every month we profile a number of venues in a different city, country or continent. The catch? The companies must be on Twitter and must tell us in their own words what makes them so special. This month, we feature Los Angeles health clubs. If you want to get involved, follow us at: www.twitter.com/openskiesmag

Barry’s Bootcamp Gold’s Gym Health, fitness, motivation and strength... all in 140 characters or less.

What are you #StrongerThan? www.twitter.com/goldsgym

Get in shape and burn fat 9 times faster, with Barry’s Bootcamp! The exercise secret of Hollywood’s biggest stars. www.twitter.com/BarrysBootcamp

Pink Iron Hollywood’s premier women’s gym! For

City Yoga Established in 1999. Our experienced teachers provide skilled instruction for students of all levels to practice in a

all women, all ages, shapes, and sizes. www.twitter.com/pinkiron

Pilates Plus

vibrant, friendly environment.

Effective pilates in the heart

www.twitter.com/CityYogaLA

of Downtown. 845 S Broadway, Downtown Los Angeles. www.twitter.com/ppspx

43

BOOKED

FREDERICK EXLEY — A FAN’S NOTES

Y

es, this is a memoir, a book about this writer’s troubled life. But A Fan’s Notes is touched by a mad genius that sets it apart from almost every other book in the genre. Exley is a magical writer. Some of his sentences take the breath away and his narrative pulses along manically. The book chronicles Exley’s decent into mental illness, shock therapy and alcoholism as he tries – and fails – to capture the American dream.

Parallel to Exley’s tribulations runs his obsession with New York Giants star, Frank Gifford. In Exley’s zero sum world, life is divided between the misfits (himself) and the conformists (Gifford). He travels in a world of sallow-faced deadbeats, of chronic drunks, of the insane, each step forward met with five steps back. Yet Exley is touched with genius; he writes like an angel; his portrayals are vivid, sharp, and hilarious; sucker punch portraits of the conmen, rubes and mad men he lives, works and drinks with. Those expecting a happy ending will be disappointed, but this is not a book that disappoints in any other way.

The best book you have never heard of. Harper & Row, 1968

ROOM

208

THE GRAND HYATT D OHA, QATAR

INTERNET SPEED: 1MB, Free PILLOWS: Four IPOD DOCK: Yes CLUB SANDWICH DELIVERY TIME:

21 minutes COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS: Tea &

coffee, breakfast, evening drinks TOILETRY BRAND: Pure DAILY NEWSPAPER: The Peninsula EXTRAS: CD/DVD player TV CHANNELS: 48 BUSINESS CENTRE: Yes VIEW: 1/5 RATE: From $370 DOHA.GRAND.HYAT T.COM

Doha is not the most exciting city in the region, despite its cultural ambitions, and the Grand Hyatt fits in a little too well here. The property itself is fine, but no more than that – the grounds are what you would expect, and the private beach is only usable four months of the year. Its location does not help; a good 30 minutes from the airport and most of the city’s attractions. There are pluses: the breakfast buffet is delicious; the service impeccable.

The rooms were nice without being mind-blowing and overall it is what you would expect – a decent hotel.

One element worth mentioning is Isaan, which serves some of the best Thai food we have tasted in the region. Unfortunately though, this is the lone bright spot in what is ultimately a very average hotel,

45

MAPPED MOSCOW

Money makes the world go round and this is no more true than in Moscow; brimming with highspending oligarchs who punish their plastic in the city’s designer stores, stylish restaurants and cool clubs, it can be hard for mere mortals to keep up. Tremayne Carew Pole explores the frenetic Russian capital.

WWW.HG2.COM

46

HOTELS 1. Ararat Park Hyatt

2. Hotel National

3. Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka

4. Golden Apple

RESTAURANTS �. Café Pushkin

6. Galereya

7. Kvartira 44

8. CDL Restaurant

BARS / CLUBS 9. City Space Bar and Lounge GALLERIES 13. Tretyakov Gallery

10. Club Che

14. Zurab Tsereteli Art Gallery

11. Garage

15. Diehl + Gallery One

12. Soho Rooms

16. Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture

47

MAPPED MOSCOW

HOTELS 1 ARARAT PARK HYATT

Its prime location and impeccable service makes this five-star hotel an easy favourite. Despite its marbled pillars and grand exterior, its 216 rooms are ultra-contemporary and extremely spacious.

2 HOTEL NATIONAL

3

Built in 1903 and now restored to its prerevolution glory, the National is an eclectic mix of classical and stylemoderne. Expect high ceilings, fine dining, and a great view of the Kremlin.

MAMAISON ALL-SUITES

4 GOLDEN APPLE

Kitschy and fun, this boutique hotel boasts a 19th-century façade but a modern and minimalist interior. The staff are dressed in designer black to juxtapose the hotel’s colour-coded floors.

SPA HOTEL POKROVKA This glamorous boutique hotel features Art Deco interiors and sleek furnishings. And let’s not forget the spa facilities – the sauna, Turkish baths and pool are legendary.

RESTAURANTS 5 CAFÉ PUSHKIN

Feel like a Russian aristocrat circa 1825 at Moscow’s most legendary literary café. Open 24 hours a day, it attracts hipsters and businessmen alike. The dessert platter is not to be missed.

6 GALEREYA

The most exclusive restaurant in town. The rich and famous can be found feasting on an eclectic menu of European fusion. Don’t even bother showing up without a reservation.

7

KVARTIRA 44 Chilled by day and crowded by night, this cosy ex-apartment is popular with trendy Muscovites. Café fare and home-style Russian food is served with live music on during the weekends.

8

CDL RESTAURANT Adorned with crystal chandeliers and fireplaces, this mansion is the grandest dining room in Moscow. Its menu offers Russian classics such as pelmeni, fish stew and rabbit stroganoff.

BARS/CLUBS 9 CITY SPACE BAR

AND LOUNGE Perched on top of the Swissôtel, this bar offers breathtaking 360-degree views. Enjoy a cocktail menu of Russian classics and mixology creations amidst pumping music.

10 CLUB CHE

A club as legendary as its namesake, this lively bar/ club/restaurant serves arguably what is the best mojito in the city. Tequila girls, salsa music and a small dance floor makes for a crazy night out.

11 GARAGE

Open 24/7, the carthemed Garage is where you’ll find revellers partying through the night, every night. Its R&B parties and ‘fight club’ nights make for a truly decadent weekend.

12 SOHO ROOMS

Beautiful people, great music and a strict door policy – this exclusive venue has it all. The restaurant is known for haute cuisine, but it’s the rooftop pool that attracts Moscow’s elite.

GALLERIES 13 TRETYAKOV GALLERY

This castle houses the world’s best repository of Russian art. Allow at least half a day to soak in masterpieces such as Ilya Repin’s Ivan the Terrible, and Rublyov’s revered Holy Trinity.

48

14 ZURAB TSERETELI

ART GALLERY Preserves the genius of Zurab Tsereteli, a Russian contemporary artist.

Massive bronze sculptures, enamel panels and graphic paintings vie for space throughout.

15 DIEHL + GALLERY ONE

Owned by respected Berlin-based dealer Volker Diehl, contemporary Russian and Asian artists feature in this small but succinct collection of paintings and sculptures with an international twist.

16 GARAGE CENTER FOR

CONTEMPORARY CULTURE The brainchild of Russian socialite Dasha Zhukova, this ex-bus depot has become a hub of modern Soviet constructivism.

Regular workshops, talks and performances are held here.

FLICK CELLULOID DISSECTED

W

e tend to think of the movie industry as a hotbed of capitalist consumerism, existing purely to wring vast profits from the general populace in return for a few hours of entertainment.

Indeed, we appear happy to put up with this as long as it remains an open and acknowledged truism – we throw down the cash, they serve us our regular fix of whizzbang escapism. Fine. At least we’re all on the same page here, right?

Well, maybe. We certainly used to be: during Hollywood’s early golden age of the 1930s to 1940s, government censorship and the rigid studio system held down by the ‘big five’ (Paramount, Warner Bros, RKO, 50

Fox, MGM) meant that any silver screen subversion of the West’s push towards a consumer-driven utopia could be easily quashed.

However, skip forward a few decades and the movie landscape looks very different. Since the mid-1970s, anti-capitalist themes have reoccurred not only in the independent film sector; bizarrely, mainstream Hollywood is increasingly tolerant of them. Why? Ironically, it turns out they’re an excellent way to spin a big fat profit.

There have always been films whose central premise condemned rampant greed as immoral (It’s

A Wonderful Life being a prime early example). With the frenzied spending boom of the 1980s,

resentment towards corporatefronted runaway consumerism in less binary forms began to surface more regularly. Sometimes these sentiments were the clear basis for an entire movie (Fight Club, Erin Brockovich, American Beauty), while others opted for more subtle comment, pitched at audiences who may not spot the subtext (Dawn Of The Dead, WALL-E).

Among the more recent blockbusters, Avatar provides a particularly fascinating case study.

Upon its release, director James Cameron was accused of having made a film that was anti-corporate, anti-military, and even antiAmerican. This wasn’t a particularly radical reading of it, either:

FIGHT CLUB HOLLYWOOD’ AND THE MYTH OF THE CONSUMER

BY MARK POWELL

Cameron’s tale of unscrupulous humans destroying the native Na’vi culture to mine precious minerals on far-flung Pandora was clearly and unapologetically analogous to numerous recent global conflicts, many of which are widely cited as driving the interests of shady multinational corporations.

And yet, talking of big business, Avatar quickly became the first film ever to take more than $2 billion at the box office. It’s been clear for years that Western cinema audiences have developed a taste for anti-capitalist sentiment in the movies – what Avatar made even clearer is that we’ll gladly line the coffers of an already spectacularly rich and powerful industry in order to get our fix.

In other words, it starts to look as though we’re getting our dual roles as movie consumers and social critics very muddled indeed. So what’s really happening here? Is it as simple as saying Hollywood has noticed our addiction to anti-consumerist dogma and called our bluff by selling it back to us at a premium?

There is surely an element of kneejerk opportunism underpinning this.

However, a more intriguing (if also more depressing) theory claims that even our most overtly ‘anticonsumerist’ films might not be doing at all what we think they are. Rather, by openly critiquing capitalist-driven models of society while failing to offer any viable alternative, they instead send us scurrying for the

next best option: a conscious effort to consume in a way that disassociates us from the herd. In other words, by functioning more as critiques of mass society than of consumerism, these films are in fact sowing the seeds of competitive consumerism.

This theory states that it doesn’t matter which end of the consumer scale we align ourselves with; that the choices we make will become mainstream, and when they do, we go in search of the next thing.

If the concept of ‘rebellious’ consumerism serves corporate interests as effectively as mass conformity, perhaps the first rule of

Fight Club should simply have been “don’t watch it”. We’re pretty sure the Tyler Durden, would approve.

51

SKYPOD BRAZILIAN DRUM & BASS ICON DJ MARKY

LOU-ISE — GABOR SZABO A proper Jazz groove, recorded live in Boston in 1967. This track is pure art.

HTTP://SOUNDCLOUD.COM/DJ-MARKY

ZÉ CANJICA — JORGE BEN & TRIO MOCOTÓ Definitely my favourite Brazilian singer. This track represents a lot to me. I remember my parents playing this tune every single New Year’s Eve in Brazil.

NEM O MAR SABIA —

DINORAH DINORAH — IVAN LINS A classic Ivan Lins track, recorded by the mighty George Benson.

LUIZ CARLOS VINHAS Luiz Carlos Vinhas was a fantastic Brazilian Bossa Nova pianist and this track always gives me goose bumps. Many incredible musicians played in this track including Raul de Souza on the trombone and the famous Brazilian drummer, Edison Machado.

MIDNIGHT AT THE OASIS — MARIA MULDAUR As soon as my mum bought this record I fell in love with it straightaway. It’s a great folk song and reminds me of the beach and of coconut water and holidays!

Her voice makes me feel so relaxed.

52

DO IT GOOD — A TASTE OF HONEY When I heard this tune I told my mum that I wanted to go to the disco, but unfortunately I was too young. The groove of this track is simply incredible.

A true Disco-Funk classic.

RAPPIN’ — KURTIS BLOW I love Rappers Delight by The Sugarhill Gang but when I first heard this track at my sister’s birthday party back in 1980, it blew my mind. A proper party tune!

EVEN IF — CALIBRE Dominick Martin, aka Calibre, is my favourite drum & bass producer. The lyrics are incredible and the vocal – his own – is beautiful. I always play this track.

ILLUSTRATION: NISHIKAWA MAIKO

WILD TIMES [CHOICE MIX] — DE-LITE A classic House track in Brazil.

I used to play this track all the time and it brings to mind one of the greatest DJs in Brazil: DJ Ricardo Guedes.

YELLOW SHOES — DJ MARKY & S.P.Y It’s difficult to say something about this track, other than it means a lot to me. This is specially dedicated to a special person!

53

LOCAL VOICES

THE MANY SHADES OF CONSUMERISM

M AKING THE CHOICE AWARENESS OF HOW AND WHY WE CONSUME IS THE FIRST STEP TO A BETTER LIFE SAYS WAEL AL SAYEGH

ILLUSTRATION BY VESNA PESIC

T

he word ‘consume’ derives from the Latin consumere, with the literal meaning ‘to take completely’. Nowadays an immediate association is made with malls and high streets full of shops and their contents, but there are other aspects of consumption that are worthy of attention. Not least of these are the effects that different kinds of consumption can produce, and the difference between active consumption and being ‘consumed’ by the things we own and the emotions we experience.

Over-consumption of food, combined with a lack of physical exercise, creates the prominent modern-day problem of obesity in the world’s better-off regions.

For example, it’s not uncommon in Dubai, where it’s cheap to eat out but often too hot to do much walking, to see physically fit newcomers gain a ‘Dubai Pound’ or two in weight.

Whether their consumption is of high-fat, fast food or rich gourmet repasts, too much indulgence results in a loss of fitness.

A side effect of obesity is that it can also impair mental agility.

Exercise leading to oxygenation of the brain has been shown to improve clear thinking. And, of course, in Dubai one can ‘consume’ the services offered by the many gyms, dance studios, yoga classes and other activities to counteract the effects of over-indulgence.

The notion of consumption also describes less tangible things. TV programmes are ‘consumed’, often mindlessly, and they are grist to the mill of how we feel and think about the world. Endless consumption of news channels, for example, can lead to a cynical view that sees only suffering, corruption, starvation, rioting or war. Whereas watching nothing but game shows and other 55

easily digested offerings might dull the mind’s critical faculties, or numb it to the very real problems there are in the world. Then again, programmes with a theme of discovery and intellectual quest, or an uplifting story, real or fictional, can provoke a desire in their audiences to seek a better way of living, and all for the price of a movie theatre ticket or a satellite TV subscription fee. We live in a time where remote controls and digital dials can be as powerful as tanks and warplanes. The music we

listen to has a noticeable influence on mood and emotions, consciously and subconsciously. In an exercise class, an upbeat melody and rhythm encourage vigorous activity.

Relaxation, on the other hand, demands something cooler, calmer, and soothing. Some claim that listening to music with lyrics glorifying violence, alcohol and drug abuse can pull the listener unwittingly into a milieu they did not plan to be involved with. Music with certain rhythms and beats mixed with

empowering words can have a huge motivational effect. It’s sometimes used to treat depression, getting people’s hands pumping the air with the excitement of new potential.

Our possessions can occupy a large part of our consciousness. The cars, houses, jewellery, clothes, shoes, watches, the holidays we take, and the general desire to ‘keep up’ in the consumption stakes, obtaining the latest trade-marked clothes or the newest gadgets, provide short-term joy and satisfaction.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF GLUT TONS

56

1809

1856

1887

1924

While at Cambridge Charles Darwin was President of the Glutton Club, which met once a week to eat ‘strange flesh’. He tried hawk, owl, armadillo and once, an unnamed 20lb brown rodent. All in the name of science, you understand.

Millionaire ‘Gilded Age’ entrepreneur and American glutton extraordinaire Diamond Jim Brady made his millions from the railway business, but made headlines for his massive appetite.

Apparently fond of multl-course steak and fish breakfasts, after his death doctors discovered a stomach six times larger than a normal human’s.

Fatty Arbuckle was the highest paid actor in the world at one time, and also had a fondness for food, women and, er, more food.

Named ‘Baloonatic’ by his fans, he died of a heart attack at 46, plagued by scandals.

Once Hollywood’s most celebrated leading man, Marlon Brando was eating peanut butter by the jarful as early as 1950 (when he was only 26). He would go on crash diets before his movies, but as he got older, even these measures stopped working and his weight ballooned. A giant of the cinema in more ways than one.

LOCAL VOICES

But this conspicuous consumption may also lead to disillusionment, dissatisfaction, and even to longerterm despair, particularly if these things are purchased with credit beyond the means to repay.

Strong emotions can be all consuming. Love, hate, anger, fear, disappointment, these skew our behaviour and, left uncontrolled, distort our relations with the world and with those we love. Experts in ‘emotional intelligence’ believe that the states of love and happiness stem

not from an absence of negative emotions, but from harnessing the force of positive ones to take us on a powerful journey where we are in control of events rather than being controlled by our emotions.

Obsession with the past or with the future can also consume the mind and emotions. Constant preoccupation with what has occurred in the past, or becoming lost in anticipation of the future, leaves us at odds with the here and now.

Too much concern for a perceived

‘better’ past removes value from people and events in the present.

Too much regret for past mistakes burdens us with a guilt that can prevent us from learning by them and moving on. Worry about the future can also stultify progress in the here and now. The American self-help guru Anthony Robbins says that “a compelling future is the food on which our souls thrive.” Focusing on the possible negatives in the future eats up our time and energy.

Awareness is where it all starts.

1935

1978

1985

1999

Probably the most famous glutton of all, Elvis Presley got through at least 10,000 calories per day; some of his favourite ‘snacks’ including barbecued spaghetti, peanut butter and deep-fried white bread. He died sitting on the toilet.

Japanese nutjob Takeru Kobayashi travels the world eating as much as he can, as fast as he can. Despite his small size, he can put away 69 hot dogs in ten minutes and is the best ‘competitive eater’ in the world. His mother must be proud.

Michael Phelps is a swimming legend.

He is also a legend of gluttony; typically eating more than 12,000 calories per day, including chocolate-chip pancakes, a five-egg omelette, French toast and two cups of coffee (and that’s just for breakfast). Of course, he gets away with this due to his six-hour a day workouts. Don’t try this at home kids.

Dzhambik Khatokhov is 12 years old, weighs more than 146kg and is determined to win a gold medal for Russia at the Olympics. His wrestling trainer struggles to find partners for him, and some doubt whether he will live long enough to compete. His mother is unrepentant: “He is just growing – upwards and outwards. What can I do about it?”

57

It’s time to nurture.

Hassan Abdulmagied Ahmed Seddiqi, Vice President of Human Resources, joined the company in 2007 and has implemented several Human Resource initiatives that has resulted in a variety of internal growth opportunities for new and existing employees. seddiqi.com

INTERVIEW

MY TRAVELLED LIFE ROBERTO CAVALLI, 71, DESIGNER

on a small boat from Tuscany and ended up

I go away; I like to keep it very simple. I

ON TRAVEL

sailing to Turkey. If I remember correctly, at

make sure that I always pack jeans, T-shirts,

Travelling is an essential part of my life.

the time I was absolutely crazy about a girl

black or white shirts, my boots and my

I have collections to design, product lines

I met there. What an amazing trip that was.

digital camera. I also make sure that when travelling I wear comfortable clothes.

being added to the Cavalli brand, as well as

Comfort is the most important thing.

boutiques and clubs opening all over the world. However, I use the world around me

ON EXPLORATION

as my inspiration. When I am designing, I

I’m a very curious person by nature, and I

try to use things and places that I have seen

am always open to trying new experiences.

ON RETROSPECTION

as inspiration. Travelling gives me piece of

I love going to new places, somewhere less

If I could give any advice to my younger

mind as well as inspiration.

obvious to the everyday traveller. Places

self, it would be to always believe in myself.

such as Antarctica or Papua New Guinea are

That is the most important thing. When

fascinating to me.

you are not sure, you show weakness. To be

ON THE SEA

strong you have to show your power, not

I absolutely love the sea; the Mediterranean is

muscle power but brainpower. If you shoot

simply spectacular. I love to explore coastlines

ON PACKING LIGHT

people with the energy of your mind you

in my dinghy, that’s when I’m completely at

I don’t really worry about packing when

become something special.

peace with the world

ON PHOTOGRAPHY Photography is one of my great loves, I’m not a professional photographer of course, but I’m always taking pictures to remember the beauty I see. The prints in my Roberto Cavalli Collection are usually inspired by some of the photos that I have taken.

ON LOVE I remember going on holiday when I was very young, before I was married. I set out 59

STREET PEEP • ER C O P E N H A G E N « WWW.STREETPEEPER.COM «

™

STUDENT

SHOP ASSISTANT

Visvim shirt

Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair

Whyre jeans

top, pants, and shoes

Nike shoes

Bruuns Bazaar bag

PHOTOGRAPHER

Christian Dior jacket Uniglo T-shirt

All vintage

60

Dr Martens shoes

SHOP OWNER JESPER Maison Martin Margiela Henrik Vibskov shirt

shoes and dress

Tiger of Sweden jeans

Rick Owens cardigan,

Nike shoes

tights, and tanktop

SHOP OWNER

SHOP ASSISTANT

APC shirt and coat

Henrik Vibskov sweater

Cold Rice bag

61

PLACE SELFRIDGES DEPARTMENT STORE « « ÈÆÆÉ

PHOTO: ROHIT MATTOO

A RC H I T E C T U R E M APPED

62

pa n e r a i . c o m

art a n d science . luminor 1950 10 days gmt - 4 4mm

Available exclusively at Panerai boutiques and select authorized watch specialists.

Dubai - Panerai Boutique, Dubai Mall, +971 4 339 8444, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, WaďŹ City, +971 4 324 6060, Mall of the Emirates, +971 4 341 1211 Abu Dhabi - Al Manara Jewellery, Hamdan Street +971 2 627 2222, Abu Dhabi Mall, +971 2 645 7575

STORE U R BA N C ARTO G RA P H Y « MAZZO « AMSTERDAM « RESTAURANT

I

f there’s any one group that has defined a signature look for Amsterdam’s culinary culture in the past decade, it’s that of architectural design firm Concrete and restaurant developer IQ Creative.

Their joint credits include some of the city’s iconic venues: Supperclub, Nomads, Envy, Vyne, Nevy and Heinekenhoek. These have a somewhat distinctive look: minimalist chic with industrial elements such as raw steel or exposed piping, mixed with high-end design chairs or lamps.

They work from the inside out, starting with a lifestyle concept and building the visual elements, the menu, the service philosophy, and the overall feel of the place around that idea.

So when Concrete director Rob Wagemans was asked by IQ Creative to develop a concept for a restaurant in the former disco Mazzo, he set out to solve a very Amsterdam problem. In a city of compact apartments, with living rooms that can just barely fit a couch and a coffee table, where can people just hang out with friends?

“We wanted to create a kind of living room for the neighbourhood,” says Wagemans, “It should be a space that is busy from morning to night, and if you want to have lunch at 3pm or 11pm, that shouldn’t be a problem. You can also just be there all day and have one cup of coffee and no one will bother you.”

The model for the space already existed in the Concrete/IQ oeuvre: Brasserie TEXT: NINA SIEGAL/IMAGE: EWOUT HUIBERS WWW.EWOUT.TV

64

Witteveen, a French restaurant in the De Pjip district. With its open-plan design, long banks of Chesterfield sofas, inexpensive meals and breakfast, lunch and dinner served all day, Witteveen was incredibly popular because it filled a gap in Amsterdam’s cultural scene that no one knew needed to be filled.

At Mazzo, they swapped the menu from French to Italian, focusing on thin-crust pizzas and espresso drinks, and used one wall of the space to build a giant pine cupboard, in which they could store all the ingredients they use in the kitchen, such as extra virgin olive oils, coffee beans and bags of risotto.

They brought in the Chesterfield sofas and spider lamps, day-long menu and many of the other elements that made Witteveen successful. Exposed brick, drywall and piping, blackboard walls (on which notes and menu ideas are scrawled) and long wooden tables that can be shared with strangers, added to an informal, living room vibe.

To link the new restaurant to Amsterdam’s cool clubbing past, they kept the name Mazzo, which they emblazoned in giant amusement park lights on the wall, making the space feel instantly iconic. It’s the sister of Witteveen,” says Wagemans, who says he’s planning to add more locations.

“Maybe in Amsterdam, maybe in some other city; I can’t tell you that yet.”

Mazzo, Rozengracht 114, Amsterdam (020) 344 64 02; www.mazzoamsterdam.nl

65

1

BOOTY G LO B A L

2

Apartamento Innovative interiors mag from Spain.

Esquire España The best Esquire covers in the world.

Brownbook Culture from around the Middle East.

apartamentomagazine.com

www.esquire.es

www.brownbook.me

4

WE FLICK THROUGH SOME OF THE W0RLD’S BEST MAGAZINES.

3

5

6

Fantastic Man Dutch men’s ‘zine with a difference.

Dapper Dan Spirited Greek fashion journal.

Green Soccer Journal An irreverant, stylish look at football.

www.fantasticman.com

www.dapperdanmagazine.com

thegreensoccerjournal.com

3 2 1

4 5

6 66

7

8

9

Worn Quirky fashion mag from Toronto.

It’s Nice That A celebration of all things nice. Love it.

VMAN High-end men’s style from New York.

www.wornjournal.com

www.itsnicethat.com

www.vman.com

10

11

12

Tiger Huge, crazy fashion from Barcelona.

Smith Journal New men’s magazine from Melbourne.

Oyster Aussie fashion and hipness from Sydney.

www.tigermagazine.com

www.smithjournal.com.au

http://oystermag.com

7

8

9

10

11

12

67

WWW.RADO.COM

3

UAE NATIONAL DAY

4

Sa t

Fr i

Th u

2

1

CALENDAR

n Su

on M

The Emirates celebrates 40 years of independence in style. www.en.uaenationalday.ae

5 6

e Tu

7

ed W

8

u Th

9

Fri

H20 FESTIVAL

10

Sat

The 15th year of the hip hop and dance festival in Paris. www.festival-h2o.com

11

Sun

12

n Mo

13

Tue

14

Wed

15

Thu

DECEMBER

Fri

16

Sat

17

Tue

Wed

Thu Fri

Sa t

Su n M on

W ed

Tu e

u Th

28

27

26

25

The Dubai Film Festival kicks off. www.dubaifilmfest.com

18

Sun

Mon

DIFF

19

20 21

CHRISTMAS DAY A day of celebration aroud the world with friends and family.

22

23

24

NEW YEAR’S EVE NYC Ring in the new year in Times Square with the masses. newyearsevecentral.com/newyork

29

i Fr

30

t Sa

69

31

MAIN Ü× º ¨

P. 94 º OKEJGNKP¨U HCNNKPI UVCTU ÖÕÛ º JG UEKGPEG QH DW[KPI

SO N’S GARRY SIMP LDLY OTHERWOR PORTRAITS

P118

71

72

ON the

MOzart trail in vienna Mozart found freedom, love and success in Vienna. Kerry Christiani follows in his footsteps to opulent Hapsburg palaces, coffee houses and concert halls where – more than 250 years since his death – his music and legacy live on

73 PHOTO: KIM ERLANDSEN

MOZART

N

o other Austrian composer has captured the world’s imagination like Mozart.

In his prolific 35-year life, Amadeus rocked the musical world with some 600 compositions, spanning every major genre from symphonies to opera, concertos to chamber music. He gave new meaning to the 18th-century Classical style and dazzled the world with his creative genius.

Born in a cramped apartment in Salzburg’s old town in 1756, Mozart was the ultimate wunderkind. He identified a pig’s squeal as G sharp aged two, could play the clavier by the age of three and was composing minor works by the age of five. His father Leopold, a concertmaster at the archiepiscopal court, was quick to spot and promote little Wolfgang’s talents. At the tender age of six Mozart performed for an enraptured Empress Maria Theresa in Vienna and, before long, every palace in Europe was talking about the “prodigy from Salzburg”.

Back then, fame didn’t automatically mean fortune. In 1772 Mozart was appointed a court musician in Salzburg for the humble sum of 150 florins a year. He felt stifled and undervalued there, and yearned to escape the clutches of Prince-Archbishop Colloredo, a tyrannical philistine who he hated “to the point of madness”.

Receiving a farewell “kick up the arse” from the Salzburg court in 1781, Mozart found his spiritual home in Vienna and became his own master.

The 10 years he spent there were his happiest and most creative. Though he frequently performed for royalty and was celebrated for operas like 74

The Marriage of Figaro and Don Giovanni, Mozart and his family often struggled to make ends meet.

His pleasures were, therefore, simple ones – dancing, beating Haydn at billiards and teaching his pet starling to whistle the odd piano concerto.

Mozart died suddenly in 1791, leaving his famous Requiem unfinished, and was buried in an unmarked grave in St Mark’s Cemetery, Vienna. Speculations of murder and dodgy pork chops aside, the probable cause of his death was rheumatic fever.

Morning Your morning begins tracing Mozart’s six-year-old footsteps back to 1762 and his first-ever public appearance at Schönbrunn Palace, a short U-Bahn ride southwest of the city centre. Walking through the manicured French gardens that sweep up to the former Hapsburg summer palace, you can imagine how daunting this debut must have been for little Wolfgang, dressed in his finery and best powdered wig.

Of the palace’s 1441 sumptuous rooms, 40 are now open to the public,

The ten years Mozart spent in Vienna were his happiest and his most productive

PHOTO: ERNEST GLEZ RODA

PHOTO: KIM ERLANDSEN

Mozart married Constanze in 1782, where his sons Karl Thomas and Franz Xaver were christened, and where his funeral was held in 1791.

It’s worth the dizzying 343-step climb to the South Tower’s viewpoint to see this city of graceful domes and spires spread out before you.

Close by is Graben, Vienna’s smartest shopping street, which retains an old-world feel with its ornate facades and horse-drawn Fiaker. Mozart lived briefly at No. 17 - now Pension Nossek - where he composed The Abduction from the

SCH öNBRUNN PALACE WHERE MOZART FIRST PERFORMED PUBLICALLY AT THE AGE OF SIX

including the Versailles-like Hall of Mirrors where Mozart won the favour of Empress Maria Theresa and her family. After the performance, an unabashed “Wolferl leapt onto Her Majesty’s lap, threw his arms around her neck and planted kisses on her face,” wrote his father. Not content with kissing the empress, he then proposed to a seven-year-old Marie Antoinette, future queen of France, when she comforted him after he fell on the palace’s slippery marble floors.

A stroll through the sculpturestrewn grounds brings you to the

Orangery where, some 24 years later, Mozart did musical battle against Antonio Salieri by command of Franz Josef II – sadly losing out to his rival. The baroque building is now a characterful backdrop for concerts of Mozart’s music, performed in 18thcentury costume at 8.30pm daily.

Mozart lived at a dozen different addresses in Vienna’s historic centre or Innere Stadt. Rising above the labyrinth of narrow streets is Gothic St Stephen’s Cathedral. Nicknamed “Steffl” (“little Stephen”) by the Viennese, the cathedral is where

Seraglio. Not far off is Milchgasse No. 1, next to St Peter’s Church, where romance blossomed between Mozart and Constanze Weber in 1781, after her sister Aloysia rejected his advances. Never one to mince his words, Mozart described Constanze as “not ugly, but also far from beautiful”. Looks aside, she made Mozart a fine wife and their marriage was happy, despite financial struggles and bouts of ill-health.

From here it’s a short walk to the House of the Teutonic Order on Singerstrasse, where the courtyard bears a marble plaque noting the composer’s brief stay in 1781. Tired of being treated like a “lackey”, this is where Mozart informed PrinceArchbishop Colloredo that he wouldn’t be returning to Salzburg, and was unceremoniously ejected by the 75

MOZART

ST STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL WHERE MOZART MARRIED IN 1782

chamberlain “with a kick up the arse”.

Afternoon By now you’ll have worked up an appetite and it’s just a few minutes’ walk along Rauhensteingasse to Café Frauenhuber. On the way you’ll pass Steffl department store, built on the site of Mozart’s deathplace, which commemorates the genius with a plaque and bust.

Entering Café Frauenhuber is like stepping back in time. Opened in 1824, this is Vienna’s oldest coffee house and one of its most authentic, with vaulting and worn red velvet lending it an air of faded grandeur. Mozart gave concertos at the café-restaurant that once stood here, and this is also where Graham Greene wrote the script for The Third Man. Such history is served today over strong coffee, decadent

Mozart admitted he would have more than 200 wives if he married everyone he jested with

cakes and Viennese classics like wiener schnitzel.

Heading back towards the cathedral and down the cobbled Domgasse you reach the Mozarthaus, where the Mozarts lived from 1784 to 1787. The interactive three-floor museum, opened in 2006 as part of Mozart’s 250th birthday celebrations, offers a wonderful insight into the man and his music. Mozart may have been in debt on his deathbed, but his lovingly restored first-floor apartment recalls

flusher times, and it was here that he wrote some of his most brilliant works like comic opera The Marriage of Figaro.

Several blocks south on Seilerstätte, the Haus der Musik takes a hands-on approach in spotlighting Austria’s famous composers. The highlight – which would surely have tickled Mozart’s childish sense of humour – is virtually conducting the Vienna Philharmonic through Eine Kleine Nachtmusik.

The knack is getting the rhythm right - swing your electronic baton too fast or too slow and the orchestra storms out in a rage. Bear in mind Mozart’s words: “Music should never be painful to the ear but should flatter and charm it, and thereby always remain music.”

Nearby is the stately Burggarten, offering shady respite on summer days. The park’s centrepiece is a dashing Mozart statue. Set high on a pedestal and surrounded by musicmaking cherubs, the composer is more imposing here than he would have been in real life at just five foot four. From spring to autumn, a treble-clef-shaped flower bed blooms at his feet.

Turn the corner and you are confronted with the pomp and splendour of the Imperial Palace, where the Hapsburgs ruled Austria for 640 years. Already a household name aged 12, Mozart was granted a two-hour audience here in 1768.

During his Vienna years, the 18thcentury socialite was a regular in the palace’s Redoutensaal, a gilded baroque fantasy of a ballroom. Here he attended masked balls where he networked, danced and, presumably, flirted. “If I had married everyone I 77

She gave me her wish list, I gave her ever y thing

The Emaar Gift Card is truly one of a kind, offering unrivalled choice, possibilities and experiences. Accepted across many Emaar entities, from shopping at The Dubai Mall and Marina Mall, to a day of pampering at The Spa at The Address Hotels + Resorts, from a round of Golf to a dining experience at At.mosphere, Burj Khalifa; your options are endless.

The Emaar Gift Card also allows you to enjoy discounts and special offers at many of Dubai’s most sought after attractions including At the Top, Burj Khalifa, Kidzania®, Reel Cinemas and The Address Hotels + Resorts.

Simply load up your Emaar Gift Card with as little as AED 50 or more. With so many places to spend, you’ll be spoilt for choice!

www.emaargiftcard.com

MOZART

INSIDE VIENNA’S STATE OPERA HOUSE, WHERE DON GIOVANNI WAS PERFORMED IN 1869

On any given night the opportunities to hear Mozart’s music in Vienna are boundless

jested with, I would have well over 200 wives,” he quipped. The hall is now the setting for somewhat touristy Mozart-meets-Strauss concerts.

Evening If Vienna looks historic by day, it is by night that its history comes to

life. In Innere Stadt alleyways where lanterns cast a soft, almost nostalgic, glow on the cobbles, and the warmth of jovial chatter and chinking glasses fill cosy Beisl taverns, you could be easily back in Mozart’s day. One of his favourite haunts was Griechenbeisl on the Fleischmarkt.

Since opening in 1447, Vienna’s oldest tavern has entertained Mozart and other musical legends like Strauss and Schubert, whose signatures grace the ceiling in the Twain Room.

Though firmly on the tourist trail, the warren of vaulted rooms is a highly atmospheric place to tuck into hearty fare like venison with black pudding and drink spicy Burgenland wines.

On any given night, the opportunities to hear Mozart’s music in Vienna are boundless. At the world-famous State Opera, performances are as lavish today as they were back in 1869 when the opera house opened with Don Giovanni. Always meticulous about his appearance, Mozart would have been suitably impressed by the well-dressed crowds who gather to listen to his music here and further along the Ringstrasse at the neo-Classical Musikverein, home to the Vienna Philharmonic.

Southwest of town near the foodie Naschmarkt is Theater an der Wien, built in 1801 by Emanuel Schikaneder, the librettist of the Magic Flute and the first-ever Papageno. Following a 79

MOZART

Addresses

The sound of his symphonies is as every bit Viennese as the mighty Danube

mammoth overhaul, this is once again a superb venue to appreciate Mozart’s operas and chamber music.

And so it is through music that Mozart lives on today; the sound of his uplifting symphonies drifting from concert halls is every bit as Viennese as the mighty Danube and the chime of St Stephen’s Cathedral. And you don’t need to be rich to enjoy his music either – take the lead of the man himself, who would have been just as at ease in the cheap seats as the royal box.

Kerry Christiani is a German-based writer.

She has written for Lonely Planet and AA.

Schönbrunn Palace Schönbrunner Schlossstrasse, 13th district Tel: +43 (0) 1 811 13 239 U-Bahn: U4 Schönbrunn St Stephen’s Cathedral Stephansplatz, 1st district Tel: +43 (0) 1 513 76 48 U-Bahn: U1, U3 Stephansplatz House of the Teutonic Order Singerstrasse 7, 1st district U-Bahn: U1, U3 Stephansplatz Café Frauenhuber Himmelpfortgasse 6, 1st district Tel: +43 (0) 1 512 53 53 U-Bahn: U1, U3 Stephansplatz Mozarthaus Domgasse 5, 1st district Tel: +43 (0) 1 512 17 91 U-Bahn: U1, U3 Stephansplatz Haus der Musik Seilerstätte 30, 1st district Tel: +43 1 513 48 50 U-Bahn: U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz

80

Imperial Palace Michaelerkuppel, 1st district Tel: +43 (0) 1 533 75 70 U-Bahn: U3 Herrengasse Griechenbeisl Fleischmarkt 11, 1st district Tel: +43 (0) 1 533 19 77 U-Bahn: U1, U4 Schwedenplatz State Opera Opernring 2, 1st district Tel: +43 (0) 1 514 44-2250 U-Bahn: U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz Musikverein Bösendorferstrasse 12, 1st district Tel: +43 (0) 1 505 81 90 U-Bahn: U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz Theater an der Wien Linke Wienzeile 6, 6th district Tel: +43 (0) 1 588 30 200 U-Bahn: U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz

82

no logo

IMAGES: TONY DE MARCO

did sao paulo's advertising experiment work? By tom foley

NO LOGO

ão Paulo is a gritty, sprawling metropolis of more than 11 million people. It’s the largest city in South America and Brazil’s economic powerhouse. It’s also a place where, a few years ago, something very strange happened.

In 2007, São Paulo became the first major city outside of the communist world to put into law a radical, nearcomplete ban on outdoor advertising.

The idea was the brainchild of the mayor, Gilberto Kassab, who declared the proliferation of outdoor advertising to be “visual pollution”.

At the time, advertising and marketing executives feared the ban would be an insurmountable blow, and quietly hoped the law would not be fully enforced. Industry representatives protested that the ban would limit freedom of speech, kill jobs and badly damage their sector.

Unfortunately for them, the ban was enforced – but not without a struggle.

Border, the Brazilian Association of Advertisers, was up in arms over the move. In a statement released on October 2, the date on which law PL 379/06 was formally approved by the city council, Border called the new laws “unreal, ineffective and fascist”.

It pointed to the tens of thousands of small businesses that would have to bear the burden of altering their shopfronts under regulations “unknown in their virulence in any other city in the world”. A prediction of US$133 million in lost advertising revenue for the city surfaced in the press, while the São Paulo outdoor media owners’ association, Sepex, warned that 20,000 people would lose their jobs.

Others predicted that the city 84

NO LOGO

would look even worse with the ads removed, a bland concrete jungle replacing the chaos of the present.

North Korea and communist Eastern Europe were cited as indicative of what was to come. “I think this city will become a sadder, duller place,” Dalton Silvano, the only city councillor to vote against the laws and (not entirely coincidentally) an ad executive, was quoted as saying in the International Herald Tribune.

“Advertising is both an art form and, when you’re in your car, or alone on foot, a form of entertainment that helps relieve solitude and boredom,” he claimed.

The move was welcomed by the public. The law was formally introduced in January 2007 with a 90-day compliance period, 86

Without its billboards the city felt like a battlefield, strewn with blank marquees and painted over storefronts

supposedly giving everyone time to take down any posters or signs that did not meet the new regulations or face a fine of up to $4,500 per day.

Throughout that period, the city’s workmen were busy dismantling around 100 sites per day, occasionally supervised personally by Kassab, a man with an obvious eye for a photo opportunity.

He set up telephone hotlines where

citizens could report instances of advertisers breaking the law. “Some days, we had 3,000 calls on those lines,” he says contentedly. Kassab says that São Paulo’s lead is being followed by Buenos Aires, and some European cities – but not London – have sent missions to have a look at his city’s experience. Regina Monteiro, a colleague, says: “The ads filled our eyes with nothing.”

Billboards, outdoor video screens and ads on buses and taxis were quickly removed across the city after the law took effect.

Even pamphleteering in public spaces was made illegal, and strict new regulations drastically diminished the allowable size of storefront signage. Without its 15,000 billboards, the city felt like

NO LOGO

a battlefield, strewn with blank marquees, partially torn-down frames and hastily painted-over storefront fascias.

São Paolo’s ads were often the size of the entire skyscrapers to which they were affixed. The law was hailed by writer Roberto Pompeu de Toledo as “a rare victory by the public interest over private, of order over disorder, aesthetics over ugliness, of cleanliness over trash and for once, all that is accustomed to coming out on top in Brazil has lost.”

Five years after the law came in, it is extremely difficult to find outdoor advertising in the city – no billboards, no ads on buses or taxis or in shop windows. But equally remarkable is how quickly big advertisers and the industry itself have adapted and, in fact, thrived.

In an interview with the FT, Marcio Oliveira, vice-president of operations at Lew Lara\TBWA admitted he was not happy with the law before it came in. “We thought, ‘OK, this is gonna screw up all our business. In the first instance, everybody, including the advertisers, loved this – to see their

88

city without this visual pollution we had in the past.”

As shocking to some as the law itself was the speed in which it was set up. “Usually in Brazil it takes a little time for laws to get set up,”

It’s better this way.

We can see the city now. And Sao Paulo is our city and we need to take care of it

says Marcello Queiroz, an editor at Propaganda and Marketing newspaper in São Paulo, talking to the FT. “It was really dramatic how quick things changed. Big companies had to change their focus and strategies.” Marketing directors had to find a place to spend the money they previously put into billboards. The result, they say, was a creative flowering of new and alternative methods – including

indoor innovations such as elevator and bathroom ads – but primarily in digital media.

The internet was the really big winner,” says Oliveira. In 2007, there was already a move towards the internet, digital media and social networking marketing worldwide, but the advertising law gave Brazilians an extra push, he told the FT. The most obvious benefit was visual, however. Surveys conducted

by São Paolo’s local media indicate the measure is extremely popular with the city’s residents, with more than 70 per cent approval. Maíra Machado, a student at the University of São Paolo, is a strong supporter of the law.

“I like it this way,” she says. “We can really see the city.” According to Machado, São Paolo’s physical beauty was hidden behind big signs and billboards. And now that more than [five years] has passed since the ad ban went into effect, she says landowners have beautified storefronts, fixed buildings and improved how the city looks. “There’s already advertising in so many

NO LOGO

places,” she says. “The city is ours and we need to take care of it.”

One embittered player in the battle was U.S. multinational Clear Channel Communications. The corporation entered the Brazilian market in 1999, purchasing a Brazilian subsidiary as well as the rights to a large share of the city’s billboard market. Clear Channel sponsored a countercampaign in support of billboards that did not resonate with the masses.

Other businesses got more resourceful. In an NPR On the Media interview, Vinicius Galvao, a reporter for Folha de São Paulo, Brazil’s largest newspaper, mentions that, “Big

90

The result of the ban was a creative flowering of new and alternative media, particularly digital media

banks, like Citibank, and big stores, like Dolce & Gabbana, they started painting themselves with very strong colours, like yellow, red, deep blue, and creating like visual patterns to associate the brand to that pattern or to that colour”.

“For example, Citibank’s colour is blue,” he says. “They’re painting the building in very strong blue so people can see that from far away and they can make an association with that deep blue and Citibank.”

In the years since the ban, businesses have got more and more creative, with the result that the city has some of the most interesting branding in the world.

For now then, the scheme has worked, but with Kassab’s term ending next year (he won re-election in 2008 with 69 per cent of the vote), and with the World Cup due to arrive in 2014 and the Olympics in 2016,

NO LOGO

When the hoardings were removed, many locals were shocked at the state of the buildings and houses

it remains to be seen whether this ban will remain. For now though the mayor can be congratulated on an initiative that worked. And brought with it some unforseen advantages.

When the hoardings were removed, many locals were shocked at the state of the buildings and houses.

Renovation work has increased, and there is a greater sense of pride.

This will continue unabated as the country enters the spotlight in the next five years. Whether the city can continue to resist the lure of advertsing dollars remains to be seen.

92

ferrariworldabudhabi.com

IT’S YOUR TURN TO FALL IN LOVE WITH THE RACE It’s a promise to feel the Ferrari rush at the next bend in the track, on the next ride, or wherever the spirit takes you. There are endless ways to let your competitive spirit rev to life. Experience the dream like never before, with over 20 rides and attractions in the world’s largest indoor theme park.

the al st

supper?

E H T S ’ T A H W

POINT ONF? MICHELI

T INFLUENTIAL OS M ’S LD OR W E TH ED UC OD MICHELIN HAS PR S, BUT ITS AR YE 0 10 AN TH E OR M R FO RESTAURANT GUIDES NSUMERS IS WANING. CO D AN S IC IT CR OD FO S, EF INFLUENCE AMONG CH RROWED TIME BO ON NG VI LI IS N LI HE IC M GARETH REES WONDERS IF

95

MICHELIN

S

aulieu. A small town in the

life-long goal, winning his third Michelin

immediately began to circulate that

region of Burgundy in eastern

star. Loiseau became a star himself.

Michelin had informed Loiseau that

France. Population roughly 2,500 people. Fairly innocuous,

it boasts just a handful of famous sons, one of whom, chef Bernard Loiseau,

He wrote books, launched a line of

his La Côte D’Or was going to lose its

frozen food and was even traded on the

precious third star. Newspaper stories

stock exchange.

followed. A man was dead, and the

Then, on the evening of February

celebrated restaurant guide with more

made it famous. Saulieu has not often

24, 2003, after a hard day’s slog in his

than 100 years of history behind it was

been the setting for high drama or the

kitchen, the chef put the cold metal of a

to blame. The food world was ablaze

source of international news, but any

with speculation. Fellow three-star chef

food lover worth his or her salt will

Jacques Lameloise revealed that Loiseau

know the name, or at least the tragic story, of Bernard Loiseau.

Born in Chamalieres in central France, Loiseau trained at legendary French restaurant La Maison Troisgros with brothers Jean and Pierre Troisgros,

How does a mere restaurant guide amass enough power to drive a man to suicide? What is the power of the star?

had once confided in him, “If I lose a star, I’ll kill myself”.

Lauded Le Figaro critic Francois Simon has since stated that La Côte D’Or was “living on borrowed time”, and many believe Loiseau’s fear that

before moving on to work for chef

Michelin would take away his hard won

Claude Verger, and gaining the attention

third star was at least partly to blame for

of the Gault Millau guide as one of the

his death.

leading exponents of nouvelle cuisine.

hunting rifle in his mouth, over the palate

In 1975, Verger put the young chef in

that had helped make his name, and

charge of La Côte d’Or in Saulieu. In

pulled the trigger.

1982 Loiseau bought the restaurant from his mentor and in 1991 he achieved his

Why did such a successful chef choose to end his life? Rumour

Michelin has said that Loiseau had been informed that he would keep his third star prior to his death, and it has since been revealed that he was deeply in dept and suffering from

GEORGES POMPIDOU AT THE PARIS CAR SHOW IN 1973, WHERE MICHELIN FEATURED PROMINENTLY

96

DRINK RESPONSIBLY. WWW.DRINKIQ.COM The BAILEYS and LISTEN TO YOUR LIPS words and associated logos are trade marks. © R & A Bailey & Co. 2011

MICHELIN

The guide was launched in 1900 to help motorists travel more easily and therefore to sell more tyres

says the guide’s rating doesn’t spark fear in him, but winning his first star for London’s L’Oranger was, “probably the biggest shock of my life and the most memorable day I’ve ever had.”

“The Michelin Guide is perhaps the longest running, it’s the father figure of restaurant accolades,” he adds. “It’s a link to our past, and I don’t think that should be forgotten.”

Chef and patron of two Michelin starred restaurants in London, Gary Rhodes agrees that a Michelin star is the highest achievement for a chef. “For me, Michelin is the ultimate accolade, and if any chefs have told you otherwise, it’s probably because they’ve never had one,” he says. “Cooking is a fashion world, you see, and the one thing Michelin is not driven by is fashion.”

What Michelin, quite openly, is driven FRENCH INDUSTRIALIST ANDRE MICHELIN IN THE LATE 1920S

by is tyre sales. An article in the The

Financial Times recently referenced a study by Michelin that estimated that in clinical depression.

But it sounds like madness, doesn’t

distributed free to French motorists, the

countries where the guide is published,

Michelin Guide began awarding one

the company sees a three per cent

it? How does a mere restaurant guide

or two stars to outstanding restaurants

increase in sales. “The Michelin Guide is

amass enough power to drive a man to

in 1926, adding the three-star rating in

a big boost for the Michelin brand,” the

suicide? Or at least for people to accept

1930. As of 2011, Michelin publishes

company says. “That was the idea when

it as a possibility. Well, in Michelin’s

guides across Europe, as well as the

the Michelin brothers launched the

own words: “the guide’s well-established

USA, Hong Kong and Japan. But does

guide in 1900 – to help motorists travel

credibility is underpinned by the

its distinguished history and reputation

more easily and thus use more tires.”

expertise it has acquired over more

make its approval worth dying for?

than a century.”

First published in 1900 by tyre manufacturer Andre Michelin and 98

British chef Marcus Wareing, whose

Now the acceptance of this view of the Michelin Guide as a simple

eponymous restaurant at The Berkley

marketing tool for tyres may seem

in London holds two Michelin stars,

disingenuous, but it could have been

MON

TUE

WED

THUR

Five cities in five days?

FRI

Photography

Audio/Video

Computers

Mobiles & Telecom

E-Accessories

Appliances

Gaming

Wellness/Fitness

and more...

Emax. The power of choice.

With over 100,000 products and 300 brands at 28 regional stores, Emax can give you the choice you want, the helpful service you need and the great value you deserve.

Switch on to Emax, the fastest-growing electronics store in the Middle East.

0% Interest 6 Months Flexi Instalment Plan

0% Interest 6 Months Easy Instalment Plan

0% Interest 3 Months Easy Instalment Plan

0% Interest 6 Months Easy Instalment Plan

Earn Air Miles on Everything You Buy

Earn Skywards Miles & Fly High When You Buy

Shop at Emax and earn Shukran points

Dubai: Oasis Centre 04-5154444, Mirdif City Centre 04-2843989, Mall of the Emirates 04-3996562, Reef Mall 04-2241181, Bur Dubai - Centrepoint 04-3587002 • Abu Dhabi: Hamdan Street 02-6744937 • Sharjah: King Faisal Street 06-5551112 www.emaxme.com

Professional services to meet all your IT requirements

MICHELIN

a contributory factor in the French

million guides a year worldwide.”

company’s decision to expand and

So the books are published in 23

be awarded three Michelin stars in Great Britain – famously handing them back

publish the famous guide outside of

countries and 13 cities, and people

to Michelin when he retired in 1999 –

its native Europe. In 2005, the guide

seem to be buying them, but the

puts it a little less delicately.

embarked on its first sortie across the

standing of the guide is a different

“Michelin in America is Mickey

Atlantic, publishing its first New York

matter altogether. And it’s not hard

Mouse,” he says. “Michelin’s whole

edition, which was quickly followed by

to find detractors when it comes to

philosophy was that you had to prove

San Francisco in 2006, Tokyo in 2007,

Michelin’s potentially dangerous

yourself over a period of time, prove

Hong Kong and Macau in 2008 and

decision to move beyond Europe.

consistency so the guide could believe

Kyoto and Osaka and Chicago in 2010.

“The fifth edition of the Michelin Guide

“Michelin lost its lustre by expanding

in you. You earn your stars, going from

into countries where they had scant

zero, to one, to two and finally to three.

Tokyo was recently released, a clear

knowledge,” says London Evening

That didn’t happen in New York”

indication that it’s been popular with

Standard critic, Fay Maschler. “This was

the Japanese public,” argues Michelin.

true of the Italian and Spanish guides.”

“We don’t reveal detailed sales figures, but what we can say is that we sell one

Marco Pierre White, a man who at the age of 33 became the youngest chef to

American food writer and GQ columnist Alan Richman agrees that Michelin had a rocky start when it launched in New York in 2005.

“A lot of people thought some of the

BERNARD LOISEAU AT HIS RESTAURANT IN BURGUNDY IN 1998

stars it awarded were very predictable – let’s give out three stars to all the restaurants that are based on French cuisine, and the others we’ll hand out in a way that seems rather irrational,” he says. Richman adds that he’s not impressed with the guide unless he’s in France and the same can be said of the majority of American food lovers.

“It doesn’t have the same aura to the American consumer that it does to Europeans, because we’ve seen that the choices are so odd here and so many restaurants we revere do not do well and so many we don’t think much of win stars.” So the American public doesn’t seem to be any more enamoured by the guide than Richman, but the US restaurant industry is just as obsessed as anywhere in Europe.

“I know it’s taken very seriously by restaurateurs, and certainly they love to get a Michelin star,” says Richman.

“The greatest element of the Michelin

Guide in the United States is prestige and business from Europe, because it’s revered by Europeans.”

One of those Europeans who harbours a profound respect for 101

MICHELIN

the Michelin Guide is Wareing, but

he says. “The interesting question is

just two restaurants and can be found

even he concedes that to achieve

not whether the whole celebrity chef

more often than not in his two Michelin

the same status across the Atlantic

bandwagon has hit the skids, it is

star kitchen at The Berkeley.

the guide is going to have to be

whether it is going to take the Michelin

very patient.

madness with it.”

“The guide is still going through a

Strangely enough, the man who

But Gordon Ramsay, the name that comes up most when the accusation of ‘you scratch our back we’ll scratch

bedding in period outside of Europe,”

Harden singles out as Britain’s first

yours’ arises, refused an interview, and

he admits. “The New York Times has

celebrity chef, Pierre White, concurs

Michelin itself offers up a pretty flimsy

more credibility in New York because

that Michelin doesn’t have the same

defence, stating categorically that, “there

of its history. That gives it a level of

standing or importance anymore – for

is no favouritism.”

kudos. People still see the Michelin

the very same reason.

Guide as a European guide rather

“When they start giving stars to chefs

Other than its history, the reason for the long-standing reputation of

who aren’t in their kitchens, you’ve got

the guide is its method of rating

to question the integrity of the guide,”

restaurants. Most importantly, the

might possess the reverential attitude

he says. “If you look at Andre Michelin’s

infamous Michelin inspector.

towards the guide that Richman

criteria, to achieve two or three stars

than a global guide.”

Chefs like Wareing and Rhodes

Until John Colapinto of The New

believes all Europeans do, but not

Yorker managed to secure an interview

everyone in Europe has the same

with one of the guide’s inspectors in

respect for it.

2009, no journalist had ever spoken

Richard Harden, publisher of

Michelin rival Harden’s, which rates restaurants based on consumer surveys rather than inspections, even questions his

The guide makes and then rewards celebrity chefs such as Gordon Ramsay, because it benefits both parties

to one of these secretive culinary authorities on the record. Chefs, critics and the general public still have no idea who these “invisible strangers”, as Wareing calls them, are. That is perhaps the most powerful ingredient in

competitor’s historical credentials.

“Michelin was really a little-

Michelin’s pantry.

known entity in the UK until about

“Most of us believe in the myth of the

Michelin inspector,” agrees Richman.

20 years ago,” he argues. “Its popularity was really all tied up in

you had to be proprietor, you had to be

“But the anonymity works both ways,

the celebrity chef phenomenon. The

behind your stove, but the game has

we see it as very professional but we

chef builds up the guide and the

changed now.

also think ‘who are these people making

guide builds up the chef.”

It is Marco Pierre White and

“Let’s give out the stars to these important chefs who control and have a

these very off choices?’”

For Wareing, “They are the general

Gordon Ramsay who Harden

large percentage of the limelight

public, and they are judging the restaurant

singles out as the first celebrity

and they’ll be our supporters and

as a member of the general public.”

chefs to take advantage of their

our ambassadors. It’s like they’re buying

Michelin credentials to bolster

chefs now.”

But that may be a little misleading.

Michelin inspectors famously fill

their brands and their businesses.

Maschler agrees: “The guide makes

But with Pierre White retired and

and then rewards celebrity chefs such

out reports on each restaurant they visit, basing their appraisal on five

Ramsay on the decline, the question

as Alain Ducasse and Joël Robuchon,

criteria: product quality, preparation

of whether we are seeing the demise

and in the UK Gordon Ramsay, because

and flavours, the chef’s personality

of the celebrity chef is, for Harden,

it benefits both parties in getting

as revealed through his cuisine, value

vital to Michelin’s future.

coverage.” It’s hard to tar all chefs with

for money, and consistency over time

the same brush; Wareing, for example,

across the entire menu. Is that how you

phenomenon is, if not dead, then

has published cook books and done

judge a restaurant?

certainly dying – and good riddance,”

some television, but he is proprietor of

“The whole celebrity chef

Harden believes this scientific, tick 103

MICHELIN

cooking in France is not what it used to be. So for the customer, it is far less relevant,” he says. “French restaurants live on what the bloggers say, and they have a much more casual approach to eating and drinking.”

Even Wareing, a staunch believer in the importance of the Michelin Guide, acknowledges it is going to face stiff competition as the digital age taps and clicks its way forward into the future.

“The Michelin Guide, most guides, come out once a year, journalism 24 to 48 hours, maybe four or five days later.

With social networks, it’s a matter of minutes. You can’t beat that,” he says.

Michelin recently appointed a new CHEFS SUCH AS MARCO PIERRE WHITE HAVE QUESTIONED THE INTEGRITY OF THE GUIDE

international director, Michael Ellis, but he refuses to comment on future strategy until next year.

frequently when talking to chefs about

Michelin comes out once a year. With social networks it’s a matter of minutes. You cannot beat that box rating system worked for Michelin

The company does, though, appear

the guide, but Maschler argues it is

to be making an effort to move with the

less important today than it was in the

times. It has a website, viamichelin.com,

halcyon days of fine dining.

and an iPhone app, and in its most recent

“Quite rightly, consistency is valued

promotional literature it highlights the

by a guide published once a year,

601 Bib Gourmand restaurants, offering

but it is almost an irrelevance in a

“good value for money for a three-course

volatile restaurant culture as we have

meal”, featured in the 2011 French

in London now, where exciting eating

guide – a nod to the more casual attitude

may literally ‘pop up’.”

Lander believes is becoming prevalent

when it was solely concerned with the

The FT’s restaurant correspondent,

grand French tradition of cooking, but

Nicholas Lander, is certain that people

has proved woefully inadequate when

are beginning to question the guide’s

Michelin can no longer rely solely on its

applied to other cuisines in Europe, Asia

authority. “Once they come to England

history to keep it from becoming ‘just

and America.

and start doing pubs, you think wait,

another restaurant guide’.

in France.

But, as it moves into its 112th year,

hang on, that’s not quite right. Why do

With the methods of its inspectors

with great French cuisine because it’s

I need a French team to tell me about

being questioned, difficulty dispelling

fairly prescriptive, but everyone says

pubs in England? You start to question

accusations of favouritism and

that Michelin completely loses its

the whole thing.”

a constant struggle to bolster its

“You can judge restaurants like that

bearings when it tries to judge any other

Lander is likely referring to the

reputation outside of Europe, it is

type of cuisine, and that is of course

star – its second – Michelin recently

looking like Michelin itself is living on

right, because you can’t possibly be an

bestowed on The Hand & Flowers in

borrowed time. And only time will tell

expert in all the world’s cuisines.”

Marlow, Buckinghamshire – the first

if it succumbs to a similar fate as the

pub to be awarded two Michelin stars.

unfortunate Bernard Loiseau.

Maschler also believes that Michelin’s methods are outdated. It is the word consistency that pops up most

“Michelin is seen as the custodian of French cooking and many accept that

Gareth Rees is a food writer based in Dubai 105

BRAINWASHED the genetics of why we buy by martin lindstrom

106

ILLUSTRATION: MITCH BLUNT

BUYOLOGY

H

ow often have you sorted through the neglected clothes in your wardrobe only to realise that many of your old jeans or shirts are back in fashion? The thin tie, the slim-fit jeans, the Hawaiian shirts have suddenly become cool again. Yet, in the face of knowing that everything old will almost certainly become new again, you continue to shop. And despite the fact that the fake Rolex you bought in Bangkok’s street market works like, well clockwork, and not a single soul has questioned its authenticity, you still hanker after the real deal. The same can be said for the Prada sunglasses you picked up on the same trip. ‘Number one’ copies or not, they’re still copies.

You have been brandwashed.

Consider this. 85 per cent of all decisions we make are made in our subconscious mind – only 15 per cent are made in our rational mind. Think about how irrational we actually are.

Do you find yourself ‘touching wood’ to keep the evil eye at bay? What do you do if there’s no wood within reach? Do you settle for knocking on your head? How about the magazine pile? Do you always reach for the one that’s second from the top? This may sound odd, but the fact is 92 per cent of all Europeans who buy magazines never take the one at the top of the pile.

Should the consumer decide not to buy it, they usually return it to its rightful place – one from the top. So, in the end everyone lands up with the same thumbed-through periodical.

Similarly, women usually choose the second stall in a public toilet based on the assumption that everyone uses the first. Since in this situation the majority of women think alike, only 2

108

per cent use the first stall with the second toilet getting the bulk of the traffic.

Of all the industries that vie for our consumer dollar, the fashion industry has managed to reach our inner psyche more successfully than any other. We buy more clothes than we need, we buy them with not that much deliberation, and what’s more, we influence those around us to do the same – over and over again.

In a study conducted in Cologne, Germany, a crowd of 200 people were gathered together in a large circle that was numbered like a clock.

Researchers then handed out slips of paper to 10 ‘informed individuals’.

The instructions read, “Go to 9 o’clock, but do not leave the group.”

For a while, the group seemed to mix and mingle fairly randomly. But soon enough, the ‘informed individuals’ had led everybody else to the designated 9 o’clock point.

But there’s more to it. Over the years, the fashion industry has managed to tap into our deepest drivers – our aspirations, our dreams and our fears. Who would have imagined that the finest year for perfume would be 2010? The global financial crisis was at its peak, and people went out and spent their money on of all things, perfume. One can only wonder why, but the simple explanation is we are hardwired to seek out things that will make us feel better when we find ourselves in a miasma of unpleasantness. It seems that the bestselling perfumes were those whose labels placed them in Paris, Milan, London, New York and Tokyo. We are perfectly aware that these perfume factories are not within a scented whiff of the Eiffel Tower, but all we’re really looking for is an express ticket to dream land. And for the grand sum of $125, perfume can take us there.

So, what is it about fashion that makes it so irresistible? Why are we

The Smirnoff and the Smirnoff No.21 words and associated logos are trade marks. © The Smirnoff Co. 2011.

AVAILABLE IN DUBAI DUTY FREE

DRINK RESPONSIBLY DRINKiQ.COM

TRAVEL RETAIL EXCLUSIVE

BUYOLOGY

Most of us have fallen victim to vanity sizing where clothes are much bigger than the advertised waistline

so eager to over-extend our finances to pay for something that we know is being produced by cheap labour in a factory somewhere in Asia?

Imagine yourself browsing the shelves in a retail store. Suddenly a pair of jeans catches your eye. You have to try them on. You head to the fitting room, and they’re perfect, as if they were tailor-made just for you. To your surprise, you see that they’re the same size as the pants you wore a good seven years ago.

Oh, wow, you’re thinking, I’ve lost weight – a lot of weight.

You find yourself feeling a whole lot better about yourself. Then as you leave the fitting room, you see a poster of a totally gorgeous model wearing the very same pants you’re considering buying. Needless to say, she’s glamorous, sexy, and she’s surrounded by a group of similarly stunning ‘friends’. As you stand there holding the jeans, the urge to buy them hits you like a rush. You know you it will hurt your credit card, and you know you probably shouldn’t do it, but… you do. You head to the counter, 110

sign for the purchase, and head home with your package.

Let’s stop here for a minute and take time to examine what went on in your brain as you made the decision to buy.

For starters, let’s be clear. You have not lost weight. It’s more likely you’ve fallen victim to ‘vanity sizing’, a devious ploy by which stores make clothes bigger so we think we can fit into a smaller size. Retailers have been doing this with women’s clothes for years, and the tactic is now being applied to men’s clothes as well. When Esquire magazine sent reporter Abram Sauer into various stores with a tape measure, he found that pairs of men’s pants with so-called 36-inch waists actually ranged in size from 37 inches (H&M) to 38.5 inches (Calvin Klein) to 39 inches (Gap, Haggar and Dockers) to 41 inches (Old Navy). It used to be that men didn’t care what the size of his waistband was, but today experts know full well that both genders will be more likely to buy a product that makes them feel trim and svelte.

There’s a whole lot more to this story. As you saw the poster on the

wall, something else happened in your brain – your mirror neurons were activated. Mirror neurons were discovered in 1989 when Dr. Giacomo Rizzolatti noticed what he originally termed ‘monkey see, monkey do’. In other words, if we someone doing something like yawning, scratching or even dancing, we identify with the action, and our brain behaves similarly. It’s a form of empathy, where we put ourselves in another’s shoes thereby feeling a stronger sense of engagement.

So, back to our shopping experience.

As we watch people walking down the hallway in a really cool pair of jeans, or maybe see them standing amidst a sophisticated crowd, our brain relates to the situation and leads us to believe that we could be that very person.

Even though we know we can’t ever look that way – our very genes prohibit it – in that moment we don’t see the model, we are the model. Our neurons have taken control and they convince us that if we buy the jeans we will be just as cool and just as popular as the image on the poster.

All this activity helps trigger dopamine, a chemical in your brain.

Dopamine is a neurotransmitter that helps create the irresistible urge to buy the jeans. It’s no coincidence that dopamine is the very same chemical

Grand hospitality

Executive Room

Grand SPA

Outdoor Pool

Panorama Restaurant

Emirates Grand Hotel is an elegant four-star property located on Sheikh Zayed Road in the heart of Dubai, with a panoramic view of Dubai and Burj Khalifa, the tallest tower in the world. Just 100 metres from Dubai International Finance Centre (DIFC) and the metro station, it’s within easy walking distance from the Dubai International Convention Centre and the World Trade Center. Being 15 minutes away from Dubai International Airport, the property is at the centre of Dubai’s business district.

100

15

150

$150 starting rate. Terms and conditions apply.

Please contact our reservation of ce Tel: 04-3230000 or email us at: reservations@emiratesgrandhotel.com

043230000 reservations@emiratesgrandhotel .com

P.O. Box 116957, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 | reservations@emiratesgrandhotel.com | www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

Professional Products Unlimited, Inc. PO Box 334, Fayetteville, GA 30214 1-800-770-7410 www.rastagroup.com

DISCOVER THE NATURAL YOU!

Use Jamaican Mango & Lime for all of your hair care needs and discover a new natural you.

Buniyad Hair Care, LLC Dubai +971 4 3515512 Buland2Trading, LLC Dubai +971 4 2352949 www.buland2trading.com

Beauty Wholesale LTD London +44 20 8381 2000

Follow us on:

sales@buland2trading.com

BUYOLOGY

Armani managed to tap into the essence of fashion, aspiration and desire

that’s released in our brains when we take feel-good drugs. It can be addictive. The term ‘Shopaholic’ is more than the invention of a skilled copywriter. Rather it should be seen for what it is – a description of a disease that currently affects close to 10% of all American women.

Fashion is the epicentre of irrational behaviour, and even though we’re conscious of it, the chances are that we’re unlikely to change. There are several ingredients that help create the aura of attraction that keeps the multibillion-dollar industry alive. One of the cornerstones of this phenomenon is our fascination with celebrity. We

want to know how they live, who they love, and of course what they wear.

If you’ve ever had the good fortune to chance upon one of the rich and famous, you’ve undoubtedly dined out on the story at many a social gathering.

You might even have managed to take a quick pic on your phone. No need for any embarrassment, your reaction is quite natural. It’s yet another behaviour that stems from our basic primate tendencies.

You might consider that I’m drawing a fairly broad bow here, but in truth gossip is linked to our survival instincts. It was once a way of securing food. Sure, the Paris

Hiltons and Lindsey Lohans of the world are a fairly recent phenomenon, but back in simpler times, survival depended on where to find the best food, the whereabouts of unsafe territory, and which path is best taken to cross the raging river. Those who were better informed were far more likely to survive the hardships of everyday life.

Obviously things have changed dramatically since then, however our need to gossip is still very much a feature of life in the 21st century.

Similarly, we remain drawn to the leaders. Kings and queens are by and large just figureheads, we’re more than jaded with our current crop of politicians, and so what do we have left? Celebrities! They have their fingers on the pulse. They wear the latest fashions, are seen at the hippest venues, and mingle with the most attractive, most popular and most interesting people of the era.

The fashion industry knows this well. Giorgio Armani was the leader in this particular pack. He was the first fashion designer not only to understand it, but also to systematize it. He opened his West Hollywood store way before any other designers gained 113

BUYOLOGY

a foothold, displayed his clothes and surprisingly, gave away choice items to any celebrity willing to wear them.

It didn’t take long before A-list celebrities began wearing Armani.

Funnily enough, as soon as one successful celebrity was seen wearing the latest and greatest Armani outfit at the Oscars, so it created a need among other A-listers. Armani managed to tap into the essence of fashion, aspiration and desire – and almost half a century later, this zeitgeist is still defining the industry.

It’s quite common for a fashion brand to contract celebrities to show up at casual gatherings wearing their outfits. These days Angelina Jolie is never photographed without her Luis Vuitton tote. Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley is almost exclusively dressed

by Burberry. Paris Hilton demands $100,000 to engage in a few short hours of cocktail chitchat, whilst Kylie Minogue has an enduring relationship with Dolce & Gabbana. She wears their clothes, carries their handbags and dons their sunglasses, and the same skilled and stylish duo design all her stage costumes too.

So does celebrity endorsement work? I confess - a few years ago I was sceptical when told that celebrity endorsement was the single most important factor in building a fashion brand. I set out to discover if this was true by initiating the world’s largest word-of-mouth experiment, which resulted in my new book, Brandwashed (Crown).

The inspiration behind this experiment was The Joneses, a Hollywood movie starring Demi Moore. In it she plays the leader of a stealth marketing team. The movie featured a fake home, with a fake family, whose job it was to promote brands to unsuspecting friends, family and colleagues. The family was generous with their recommendations, promoting everything from cars to chocolates.

The Brandwashed experiment began in early 2010. We started by scouring the US, looking for a ‘perfect’ family.

We finally found the Morgansons, a picture-perfect family living in Laguna Beach, California. Gina and Eric Morganson are a wholesome couple in their early forties. They have

We are genetically programmed to follow each other. Fashion knows this and taps into it in myriad ways

three handsome sons who resemble Justin Bieber in varying degrees. Under the direction of one of Hollywood’s top producers, 35 cameras were hidden inside their home. Microphones were tucked inside plants, placed under tables, and hidden behind couches.

A crew of 12 professionals monitored the experiment. The object of the experiment was to understand the true power of word of mouth.

Let’s fast forward. No dialogue was scripted and we ended up with 2,000 hours of footage. So, what did we discover?

I was shocked to discover that word-of-mouth is probably one of the most powerful marketing tools I’ve ever encountered. Those who entered the family’s sphere purchased 90% of the brands recommended by the Morgansons even the producer couldn’t resist the recommended shampoo, and he only got the information from behind the observational mirror. Recent research 115

BUYOLOGY

We have all been brandwashed; we are doing the same to each other, and we love doing it

showed that people are more likely to believe advertising in the Economist than they are on the Huffington Post. In other words, context has an indirect effect on the message. In our experiment, the Morgansons were the ‘channel’. Every recommendation they made, seemed to come along with a certificate of endorsement that was powerfully stamped with the invisible message: ‘You can trust this. Buy it.’

The subtext of the recommendation was, “If the Morgansons like it, so will I”. The endorsement continued way past the initial recommendation.

We tracked the effects via mobile devices and control groups, and the initial recommendations were equally effective as the word-of-mouth spread to the second, the third, and even the fourth circle beyond the family’s sphere.

What does this mean for brands and

fashion? A lot. Firstly, we need to be mindful of the ethical implications.

Are we going to see hundreds if not thousands of Morgansons popping up as sleeper cells in the future?

Probably. However, what’s particularly interesting is that our experiment showed that even though our control family (indirectly competing with the Morgansons) openly declared their mission, they did even better than the Morgansons.

So, it seems, that if the consumer is aware that this is part of a marketing scheme, they are even quicker to embrace it.

And all this brings me back to the world of fashion. Whether we care to admit it or not, we are genetically programmed to follow one another.

More than any other industry, fashion knows this and taps into it in ways you’ve never even thought

about. The fact is that most of the clothes we wear, regardless of their price tag, are made in some poorly lit and inadequately ventilated factory somewhere in the heart of China.

Even though most designers would find it hard to admit, the same production lines produce a range of items for a number of competing brands. In the morning, Gucci glasses are assembled, in the afternoon the factory hands switch to Versace.

We rarely even glimpse this side of the story. We’re only exposed to the other side – the fashion, the glamour, and the sensual delights we’re all so magnetically drawn to. We’ve been brandwashed.Not only that, we’re all brandwashing one another. And what’s more, we’re loving it.

Martin Lindstrom is the best-selling author of Buyology and Brandwashed.

117

la d of the lost n re consumed in ga ry simpson's real la ds p portra

118

PHOTO: THOMAS CHRISTOFOLETTI

Olympic n onal park, was n, USA 119

salt rn sea, california 120

PHOTO: HELENE ANTONIODODOT SABA // WWW.ANTONIOSABA.COM

Olympic n onal park, was n, u a

121

122

PHOTO: RON GESSEL

ca do lake, texas

Tros y-loire, Fra ce 123

124

PHOTO: THOMAS CRISTOFOLETTI

Jรถkulsรกrlรณn , i ela d

125

126

ca do lake, texas, Usa 127

BRIEFING ÖØ× º

P. 138 º route map

P. ÖÙ× º our fleet

IRISH EYESG ARE FLYWIN DAILY

E EMIRATES’ N SERVICE TO RTS DUBLIN STA

P130

129

A��� EMIRATES TO S E SERVIC HROW T A E H LONDON LE OME TRIP WILL BEC M O DAILY FR

EMIRATES NEWS

DUBLIN

24 JAN

A GUIDE TO EMIRATES’ NEWEST ROUTE

GUINNESS STORE HOUSE

CROKE PARK Fully renovated in 2004, Croke Park is one of the world’s most famous sporting arenas. With a capacity of 82,300 it is Europe’s third biggest stadium and the home of Irish Gaelic football, and it also hosts the Irish national rugby team.

Whether they like it or not, Guinness has become synonymous with the Irish. The tour of the Guinness Store House in the city centre is touted as Ireland’s most popular international visitor attraction.

TRINITY COLLEGE

ILLUSTRATION: EDWARD MCGOWAN

TEMPLE BAR Cobblestone streets, bars, art galleries, cafés and historic architecture – Temple Bar is what people imagine Dublin should be like, and it is. Drop by the IFC for cutting-edge films or have a pint in one of the many old school pubs that dot the district’s alleyways.

THE SPIRE Officially known as the Monument of Light, this towering stainless steel pinlike monument on O’Connell Street is better known as the Spire of Dublin. It’s visible from across the city.

Founded by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592, Ireland’s oldest university boasts wonderful gardens, beautiful architecture and an impressive alumni cast including Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett.

The perfect place to sit and enjoy an alfresco lunch on one of the cricket pitches. Be sure and see the Book of

Kells while your’re there.

EMIRATES PLACES RECORD $26BN AIRCRAFT ORDER EMIRATES ORDERED A RECORD additional 50 777-300 ER aircraft from plane manufacturer Boeing at last month’s Dubai Airshow.

The order, which also includes 20 777-300 ER options, is valued at US$26 billion, and is the single largest dollar value aircraft order in the history of Boeing. The additional 50 aircraft ordered adds to the existing Emirates

130

order of 40 777-300 ERs, making the number of aircraft on firm order 90.

Emirates is already the largest operator of 777 aircraft in the world, including 61 300-ERs currently in service, and the expansion of the fleet reaffirms Emirates’ intention to continue to expand its long haul service. “This record breaking dollar value order is another milestone for Emirates and affirms our strategy to

continue to excel as a world leading carrier, connecting the world to Dubai and beyond,” said HH Sheikh Ahmed Bin Saeed Al-Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and Group. “The Boeing 777-300 ER aircraft plays a pivotal role in Emirates development of a modern fleet to meet the demand for global air travel for the future.”

VOLVO OCEAN RACE IS COMING TO ABU DHABI

THIS NEW YEAR

ARE YOU? 31 DEC 2011 - 14 JAN 2012

FREE ADMISSION

N

E

NE

240

210

S

SE

180

150

W

SW

120

90

N

NW

60

30

E

NE

330

300

S

SE

270

240

W

SW

210

180

N

NW

150

120

The greatest ocean adventure on earth is coming to Abu Dhabi for a two-week stopover. Join us for an unforgettable New Year’s celebration in our specially created ‘Destination Village’ and soak up the excitement as the competing yachts – including our own ‘Azzam’ – arrive. Be part of this historic and epic celebration.

www.volvooceanrace abudhabi.com Presenting Sponsor

Official Hotel

Technical HQ

Host Partner

Host Partner

Organised By

31%

EMI RATES NEWS

NT THE AMOU AS H G IN THAT BOE S C�� IT D E C U RED S SINCE EMISSION ����.

EN VIRONMENT

IRO.AERO SOURCE: ENV

WINGING IT AS THE AVIATION INDUSTRY IS constantly looking for new ways to reduce its environmental impact, solutions can be found in not only investing in new fuel types and implementing favourable initiatives such as paperless flights, but also from developing more efficient ways of saving energy whilst in flight.

Fuel consumption can be reduced if the aerodynamics of the aircraft can be improved, despite the fact that aircraft and engine technology has increased fuel efficiency by 70 per cent over 40 years, development still continues in order to make more energy savings.

Advances in winglets – the extensions on the end of some aircraft wings – by companies such as Winglet Technologies have lead to a three per cent reduction in fuel consumption. They lessen the drag caused by airflow over the wing,

reducing fuel consumption, CO2 emissions and noise pollution – similar to the design of a modern Formula One car.

Emirates maintains a fleet, with an average aircraft age of just six years, of which the aircraft come direct from Boeing and Airbus already fitted with latest technology wingtips.

LIGHT ORCHESTRA Gone are the days when the only decision you faced when buying a light bulb was whether to get a bayonet or screw. These days there are seemingly thousands of different variations of bulbs. Here’s the run down: Incandescent bulbs – the traditional bulb is highly inefficient as 90 per cent of its energy is given off as heat. These bulbs are being phased out in Europe.

Energy efficient halogen bulbs – similar to incandescent, but with halogen gas inside them that slows down the deterioration process.

Fluorescent lamps – the long tubes are only effective as energy savers if they are not constantly turned on and off.

Compact fluorescent lamps – more energy saving as they don’t take long to warm up. Reduces the carbon output of an incandescent bulb by 70 per cent.

LED – The future of lighting. They only need to be replaced about once every 25 years and use less than 10 per cent of the energy of an incandescent.

95%

THE PERCENTAGE OF THE AIRCRAFT THAT

JAVAN RHINO

COP17 MEETING

A revolutionary new

emitting diodes

The International Rhino

This month sees the

idea for light-emitting

(OLED) that can

Foundation has reported

annual conference of

wallpaper is being

be integrated into

that the endangered Javan

the COP17, the body

developed by a

wallpaper. The OLEDs

rhino is now extinct in

comprising of the parties

company in north

require very little

Vietnam. A mere 50 of

involved in the Kyoto

Wales. Lomox has

energy to run, which

these rhinos remain in

Protocol. This branch

25-30

developed a low

could cut down on

the wild around the world,

of the UN meets to

THE LENGTH OF TIME IN YEARS THAT MOST

energy light source

costs as they are cheap making it the rarest large

discuss environmental

AIRCRAFT ARE BUILT TO OPERATE FOR.

from organic light

to manufacture.

WALL LIGHT

mammal on earth.

MANUFACTURERS ESTIMATE IS RECYCLABLE. .SOURCE: ENVIRO.AERO

resolutions.

SOURCE: ENVIRO.AERO

132

EMI RATES NEWS

COMFORT

BEFORE YOU R JOU R N EY CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR BEFORE TRAVELLING IF YOU HAVE ANY MEDICAL CONCERNS ABOUT MAKING A LONG JOURNEY, OR IF YOU SUFFER FROM A RESPIRATORY OR

IN THE AIR

CARDIOVASCULAR CONDITION. PLAN FOR THE DESTINATION � WILL

TO HELP YOU ARRIVE AT YOUR destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips.

Regardless of whether you need to

rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you to enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

SPECIAL MEDICATIONS? GET A GOOD NIGHT’S REST BEFORE THE FLIGHT. EAT LIGHTLY AND SENSIBLY.

AT TH E AI R PORT

SMART TRAVELLER DRINK PLENTY OF WATER

YOU NEED ANY VACCINATIONS OR

ALLOW YOURSELF PLENTY OF TIME FOR CHECK�IN.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

AVOID CARRYING HEAVY BAGS THROUGH THE AIRPORT AND ONTO THE FLIGHT AS THIS CAN PLACE THE BODY UNDER CONSIDERABLE STRESS. ONCE THROUGH TO DEPARTURES TRY AND RELAX AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.

REHYDRATE WITH WATER OR JUICES FREQUENTLY.

CARRY ONLY THE ESSENTIAL ITEMS THAT

DRINK TEA AND COFFEE IN MODERATION.

YOU WILL NEED DURING YOUR FLIGHT.

MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE

DU R ING THE FLIGHT CHEWING AND SWALLOWING WILL HELP EQUALISE YOUR EAR PRESSURE

KEEP MOVING

DURING ASCENT AND DESCENT. BABIES AND YOUNG PASSENGERS MAY SUFFER MORE ACUTELY WITH POPPING EARS, THEREFORE CONSIDER PROVIDING A DUMMY.

LOOSEN CLOTHING, REMOVE JACKET AND

EXERCISE YOUR LOWER LEGS AND CALF

GET AS COMFORTABLE AS

AVOID ANYTHING PRESSING AGAINST YOUR BODY.

MUSCLES. THIS ENCOURAGES BLOOD FLOW.

POSSIBLE WHEN RESTING AND TURN FREQUENTLY.

WEAR GLASSES

USE SKIN MOISTURISER

AVOID SLEEPING FOR LONG PERIODS IN THE SAME POSITION.

W H EN YOU ARR IV E TRY SOME LIGHT EXERCISE OR READ IF YOU CAN’T SLEEP AFTER ARRIVAL.

CABIN AIR IS DRIER THAN NORMAL THEREFORE

APPLY A GOOD QUALITY MOISTURISER TO

SWAP YOUR CONTACT LENSES FOR GLASSES.

ENSURE YOUR SKIN DOESN’T DRY OUT.

134

EMI RATES NEWS

CABIN L BE CREW WIL LP HE HAPPY TO D E IF YOU NE

CUSTOMS & VISAS

E C N A T S I S S A PLETING COM THE FORMS

TO US CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION FORMS WHETHER YOU’RE TRAVELLING TO, OR THROUGH, THE UNITED States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey

is as hassle free as possible. The Cabin Crew will offer you two forms when you are nearing your destination. We provide guidelines below, so you can correctly complete the forms.

CUSTOMS DECLAR ATION FORM

IMMIGR ATION FORM

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival / Departure Record) should be completed if you are a non-US citizen in possession of a valid US visa and your final destination is the US or if you are in transit to a country outside the US. A separate form must be completed for each person, including children travelling on their parents’ passport. The form includes a Departure Record which must be kept safe and given to your airline when you leave the US. If you hold a US or Canadian passport, US Alien Resident Visa (Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a valid ESTA (right), you are not required to complete an immigration form.

136

FLEET GUI DE

ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR

WILL EXPIRE ALONG WITH

TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA)

YOUR PASSPORT.

IF YOU ARE AN INTERNATIONAL

APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA

EMIRATES NEWS

TRAVELLER WISHING TO ENTER THE UNITED STATES UNDER THE

NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE

VISA WAIVER PROGRAMME,

FOR THE VISA WAIVER *:

YOU MUST APPLY FOR

ANDORRA, AUSTRALIA,

ELECTRONIC AUTHORISATION

AUSTRIA, BELGIUM, BRUNEI,

�ESTA� UP TO �� HOURS PRIOR

CZECH REPUBLIC, DENMARK,

TO YOUR DEPARTURE.

ESTONIA, FINLAND, FRANCE, GERMANY, HUNGARY, ICELAND,

ESTA FACTS:

IRELAND, ITALY, JAPAN, LATVIA,

CHILDREN AND

LIECHTENSTEIN, LITHUANIA,

INFANTS REQUIRE AN

LUXEMBURG, MALTA, MONACO,

INDIVIDUAL ESTA.

THE NETHERLANDS, NEW

THE ONLINE ESTA SYSTEM

ZEALAND, NORWAY, PORTUGAL,

WILL INFORM YOU WHETHER

SAN MARINO, SINGAPORE,

YOUR APPLICATION HAS BEEN

SLOVAKIA, SLOVENIA, SOUTH

AUTHORISED, NOT AUTHORISED

KOREA, SPAIN, SWEDEN,

OR IF AUTHORISATION

SWITZERLAND AND THE

IS PENDING.

UNITED KINGDOM**.

A SUCCESSFUL ESTA

*

APPLICATION IS VALID

** ONLY BRITISH CITIZENS QUALIFY UNDER THE VISA WAIVER PROGRAMME.

FOR TWO YEARS, HOWEVER

AD

80 mm wide x 224 mm high

SUBJECT TO CHANGE

THIS MAY BE REVOKED OR

THE HIGHEST AVERAGE SEAT LOAD PERCENTAGE EVER ACHIEVED IN ONE FINANCIAL YEAR:

80 1,039 THE NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT WASHES EACH YEAR:

137

EMI RATES NEWS

138

ROUTE MA P

ROUTE MA P

EMIRATES NEWS

139

EMI RATES NEWS

140

ROUTE MA P

ROUTE MA P

EMIRATES NEWS

WHERE ARE YOU GOING? TELL US OR UPLOAD A PIC AT

AD

FACEBOOK.COM/OPENSKIESMAGAZINE TWITTER.COM/OPENSKIESMAG

141

EMIRATES EMI RATES NEWS NEWS

FLEET FLEETGUI GU DE I DE

Boeing 777-300ER Number of Aircraft: 64 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-300 Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777-200LR Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

Boeing 777-200 Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

Boeing 777F Number of Aircraft: 3 Range 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m 142

FOR MORE INFORMATION: WWW.EMIRATES.COM/OURFLEET

THE FLOENETTAINS

C OUR FLEET ADE 168 PLANESS. SMENGER PA UP OF 160 D8 E PLAN S AN ANES CARGO PL

FLEET GUI DE

EMIRATES NEWS

Airbus A380-800 Number of Aircraft: 20 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

Airbus A340-500 Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

Airbus A340-300 Number of Aircraft: 8 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

Airbus A330-200 Number of Aircraft: 27 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

Boeing 747-400F/747-ERF Number of Aircraft: 3/2 Range 8,232km/9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m

AI RCRAFT N UMBERS AS OF 3 1/ 1 2 / 2 0 1 1

143

AD

80 mm wide x 224 mm high

W

e are going to the movies next month with an issue dedicated to film. The UK’s number one film reviewer wonders why it’s been so long since Robert De Niro has made a decent movie.

We get an insider’s account of life as a Bollywood screenwriter. We track down one of North Africa’s coolest cinemas in a rough and ready port town and get an insider’s guide to London with a cinephile’s tour of the English capital. If it’s on the silver screen, it’s in our January issue. Don’t forget the popcorn.

facebook.com/openskiesmagazine

144

www.openskiesmagazine.com

twitter.com/openskiesmag

htc.com

Feel every single beat.

HTC Sensation XL smartphone with Beats AudioTM and BeatsTM by Dr. Dre urBeatsTM in-ear headphones. Plus, with a 4.7-inch screen it’s the biggest multi-media experience you’ll find on a smartphone.

Designed to blow your mind.

l�t�s�

3.5

www.omegawatches.com

STARRING

NICOLE KIDMAN

More information available at OMEGA Middle East, Emirates Towers, Dubai, UAE. Tel: +971 4 3300455