EMIRATES WOMAN - OCTOBER 2020

A MOTIVATE PUBLICATION

OCTOBER 2020

UAE DHS25 OMAN RO2.70 BAHRAIN BD2.60 KUWAIT KD2.10 SAUDI ARABIA SR25

emirateswoman.com

THE BRAVERY ISSUE

Strong. Courageous. Fearless.

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BORN IN LE BRASSUS

RAISED AROUND THE WORLD

AU D E M A R S PI G U E T B O U T I Q U E S D U B A I : T H E D U B A I M A L L · M A L L O F T H E E M I R AT E S

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer MANAGING PARTNER AND GROUP EDITOR Ian Fairservice EDITOR/ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Amy Sessions amy.sessions@motivate.ae SENIOR EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Cecilia D’Souza SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Olga Petroff DIGITAL STYLE EDITOR Diana Bell-Heather DIGITAL EDITOR Olivia Morris DIGITAL FEATURES WRITER EMIRATES WOMAN ARABIYA Diyana Hakmi WEB DEVELOPER Firoz Kaladi DIGITAL DIRECTOR Sabir Khodabux GROUP MARKETING MANAGER – DIGITAL Anusha Azees GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION Sunil Kumar ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER Binu Purandaran PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR Venita Pinto CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER Anthony Milne GROUP DIRECTOR Andrew Wingrove GROUP SALES MANAGER Bindu Gupta bindu@motivate.ae SENIOR SALES MANAGER Neha Kannoth neha.kannoth@motivate.ae GROUP CREATIVE SOLUTIONS MANAGER Kelli Maddock kelli@motivate.ae

HEAD OFFICE Media One Tower, Dubai Media City, PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE, Tel: (+971) 4 4273000, Fax: (+971) 4 4282261, E-mail: motivate@motivate.ae DUBAI MEDIA CITY Office 508, 5th Floor, Building 8, Tel: (+971) 4 3903550 Fax: (+971) 4 3904845 ABU DHABI PO Box 43072, UAE, Tel: (+971) 2 6772005 , Fax: (+971) 2 6770124, E-mail: motivate-adh@motivate.ae LONDON Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER, UK, E-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae

Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai

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Patricia Morris IN MEMORIAM Patricia Morris, author of Mother Without A Mask, a book that provides unique insights into traditional Emirati culture, passed away in August at her home in Cornwall, UK, at the age of 96.

The book, written under her maiden name, Patricia Holton, chronicles her intimate relationship with an Emirati family in the early days of the UAE. Published by Motivate Media Group in 1991, the novel has been a bestseller for three decades and remains in print.

Born on October 23, 1923, in Westchester County, New York, Patricia served as a Red Cross nurse in Paris during the last days of the Second World War. Following a whirlwind romance, Patricia married British publisher and author Claud Morris after the war. She paused her career as a television producer to move to London, where she worked with him as an editor for two of his publications.

Both Patricia and Claud had a deep curiosity about the world and a desire to better understand different cultures. Claud went on to establish The Next Century Foundation – an organisation which encourages global peace through dialogue, focusing on the Middle East – which is today run by their son William.

Claud, who passed away 20 years ago, spent many years promoting a better understanding of the Arab world in Britain, launching Middle East Magazine and then Voice of the Arab World. He was a frequent visitor to the Emirates in the early days of the UAE federation, interviewing many leading members of the government and writing The Desert Falcon – the first-ever biography of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan – published in 1974.

Accompanying her husband on many of his trips to the UAE, Patricia became close friends with a prominent Emirati family. As she learned about the UAE from them, they were also keen to develop a

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knowledge of the West. Invited to spend time with the family, she often visited them in their Al Ain compound, attending family weddings and other events, as well as talking with the women of the family and learning more intimately about their customs and way of life. For several years in the late 1970s, she and her husband welcomed the family’s teenage sons into the Morris home in London, where they learned the English language and customs.

The book she authored only recorded the early years of the relationship, which continued until the end of her life. She continued to visit the Emirates after her husband’s death in 2000, her last visit being in 2010, when she stayed with the family in Abu Dhabi. Always in close contact, Patricia received a phone call from one of her Emirati “sons” less than a week before she died.

Paying tribute to Patricia, Ian Fairservice, Managing Partner of Motivate Media Group, said: “Our relationship with Patricia began in 1991 when we first published Mother Without A Mask and we soon became friends. We were privileged to stay in touch with her and always met when she visited the Emirates – the last time being in 2010 when we shared a memorable lunch in Abu Dhabi along with long-time resident Jocelyn Henderson. She was a remarkable woman and, like her husband Claud, had enormous affection for the Arab world, particularly the Emirates, where she was so well regarded.”

Patricia is survived by her three children, five grandchildren and three great-grandchildren.

Also available from booksarabia.com

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Editor’s Letter

Welcome to The Bravery Issue. In this issue we celebrate page 42, Holli Rogers – CEO Browns Fashion & Chief bravery in all its forms, from taking a leap of faith to Brand Officer at Farfetch on page 108 and Kate Blythedaring to be different and striking out on your own. For Pearson Chief Marketing Officer at Mecca on page 110, our cover shoot on page 18 we partnered with Fendi, a all incredible women demonstrating bravery to follow brand known for breaking the mould their gut in both business and life. and carving out its own design direction, Sharp Solution on page 100 and just like our cover star Khulood Thani Brave Beauty on page 98 take a look at THE BRAVERY on page 30. Sheikha Amal Al Maktoum a more extreme approach to your usual TO START… IS AN teaches us what it takes to take a leap beauty routine while LIYA on page 44 ACHIEVEMENT of faith and launch your own brand on and Marei1998 on page 48 deliver daring THAT page 84, entrepreneur Ghizlan Guenez new design aesthetics worth investing SHOULD BE demonstrates the bravery of starting in for FW20. In The Brave on page 114 again in True Grit on page 112 and we spoke to some of the most incredible CHAMPIONED. Captain Salma Al Baloushi, the first women we know to ask what bravery Emirati female to rise to First Officer’s means to them. For many, the bravery rank at Etihad, speaks to us about what it takes to to start, to try and to dare, even if this leads to failure is become a woman of firsts in The High Flyer on page 116. still an achievement that should be championed.

We also have exclusive interviews with Elizabeth von der “If he fails, at least fails while daring greatly.” – Goltz – Global Buying Director at NET-A-PORTER on Theodore Roosevelt.

Amy Sessions EDITOR / ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

T H E H E R O B U YS

Pampas Faux Fur Handbag Dhs1,285 Marei1998

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Celestial Black Diamond Retinol Oil, 30ml Dhs750 111Skin

Eklonis Faux Fur Coat - Beige Dhs3,620 Marei1998

Dallas metallic leather knee boots Dhs5,472 Khaite available at NET-A-PORTER

Celestial Black Diamond Eye Cream, 15ml Dhs899 111Skin

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HAPPY SPORT COLLECTION

CONTENTS OCTOBER 2020 Cover Shoot p.18

16 THE MONITOR

Monitor News p.16 Social Listings p.17 Exclusive Interview – Cover Star Khulood Thani p.30

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CONTENTS OCTOBER 2020

Yes Master – Brunello Cucinelli FW20 p.60

All the Way Up – FW20’s long-length boots p.78

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FASHION

French Polish – Saint Laurent FW20 p.54

The Edit – The Renegades p.34

The Perfect Cut – Alaïa FW20 p.66

Exclusive Interview: Elizabeth von der Goltz, Global Buying Director NET-APORTER p.42

Then & Now – Givenchy FW20 p.70

Excusive Interview: LIYA p.44

Sharp Solution – Microneedling p.100

Exclusive Interview: Marei1998 p.48

The Innovators – MATCHESFASHION new designer’s support system p.80

The Hero Buys – Bold Accessories p.52

Leap of Faith - Sheikha Amal Al Maktoum p.84

Am/pm beauty – Amna Al Qubaisi p.104

All in the Detail – Kristina Fidelskaya FW20 p.74

BEAUTY

The Awakening – Rouge Hérmes AW20 p.88

The Cover

Hot New Buys p.96 Brave Beauty – The Vampire Facial p.98

Beauty Shelf – Ghizlan Guenez p.102 Long singlebreasted coat, Fendi

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CONTENTS OCTOBER 2020 Independent Thinkers – BITE Studios p.36

Perfect Partners: Audemars Piguet and Ralph & Russo p.122

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127 The Brave p.114

FEATURES

The Superwoman – Holli Rogers, CEO Browns Fashion & CBO Farfetch p.108 The Marketing Mastermind – Kate Blythe-Pearson CMO, Mecca p.110 True Grit – Ghizlan Guenez p.112

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The High Flyer – Captain Salma Al Baloushi p.116 The Dream – Supercarblondie p.118

LIFE

Breaking Boundaries – Areej Al Hamadi p.120

The Bold & Brave – Stand out investment pieces p.127

Go Big – Sacha Jafri p.121

Bold Moves – The best workout gear p.128

The Vault – 818 Vault is the new club to join p.124

The Tenacious p.134 Full Force – Repossi p.138

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WHERE DIVERSITY UNITES

CREATED AT PARK HYATT DUBAI

800 4360

MARINAHOMEINTERIORS

Second Summer

THE HERO BUYS

Second Summer’s first ever drop is outstanding. The collection, inspired by the effortless island cool of Ibiza evokes a free-spirited appeal, ideal for a trans-seasonal wardrobe

We’re feeling all the caramel tones for FW20

Square-frame gold-tone sunglasses Dhs643 Ray-Ban

Caramel Rancher fedora hat Dhs474 Lack of Color

PALM SWIMWEAR

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The perfect pop of colour under an open shirt.

Bikini top Dhs404 Palm Swim

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Wrap up your poolside cool with these Talise tie bikini bottoms in Valencia. Bikini bottom Dhs349 Palm Swimwear

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Woven from coconut palm leaf this dome hat with reversible brim provides the perfect shade.

Dhs731 Lack of Color

Suede-trimmed shearing cape Dhs19,764 Saint Laurent

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

Ribbed top with tied detail Dhs99 Zara

THE MONITOR – NEWS

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Social Listings

COMPILED: DIYANA HAKMI

A curated list of who to #follow this month

@Repossi

@liya__official

@marei1998official

@matchesfashion

Edgy yet refined fine jewellery brand Repossi delivers beautiful pieces inspired by the Minimalist and Bauhaus movements.

Georgian based brand LIYA was founded in 2017 and is all about precise, daring yet feminine cuts.

Founded by Maya Reik, the brand tries to balance old-world glamour and the easiness of contemporary lines.

MATCHESFASHION brings established designers and brands including Gucci, Prada, Saint Laurent, as well as new and emerging talent.

@fentybeauty

@alexandrevauthier

@threadsstyling

@the.peterdo

Rihanna’s beauty brand fills the industry’s void by creating shades to match all skin tones and formulas for all skin types.

Inspired by the French fashion culture and AngloSaxon influences, founder Alexandre Vauthier’s pieces are characterised by their cuts’ radicality and precision.

Personal, fast, and ahead of the style curve, Sophie Hill’s styling & concierge service has reached new levels of success.

Tailored for the modern woman looking for fine tailoring, construction, and textiles.

Vietnamese born designer Peter Do launched the brand in 2018.

@mozahmm

@aseel.alhamad

@paristexas_it

@p.e.nation

The first female commercial pilot from Dubai’s royal family.

Her Highness Sheikha Mozah Al Maktoum is proving that the sky is not even the limit for females.

The first female to be appointed as a board member of the Saudi Arabian Motor Federation and the first female to drive an F1 car in the Kingdom.

This Italian shoe brand’s creations are bold and daring.

Their croc-effect knee-high boots have become a global phenomenon.

This brand is all about supporting the people in their journeys “all day, every day, for everybody” with street-meetssportswear, including extremely technical activewear.

THE MONITOR

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Photography: GREG ADAMSKI

The

Words & Creative Direction: AMY SESSIONS

CREATIVE

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Combining her entrepreneurial spirit and extensive experience in culture and design, Khulood Thani is focused on bringing innovative global fashion to an international platform

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Previous page: Long single-breasted coat, Fendi; Left page: Leather midi dress with puffed sleeves, Fendi; This page: Long single-breasted coat; Mohair sleeveless dress; Promenade biker boots, all Fendi

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COVER STORY

This page: Single-breasted coat with puffed sleeves, Fendi; Right page: Long single-breasted coat; Peekaboo ISEEU Iconic Medium, both Fendi

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COVER STORY

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COVER STORY

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Single-breasted coat with puffed sleeves; Peekaboo ISEEU East-West; Promenade biker boots, all Fendi

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Left page: Long single-breasted coat, Fendi; This page: Single-breasted coat with puffed sleeves, Fendi

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COVER STORY

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COVER STORY

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Left page: Suede jumpsuit; suede jacket with micro perforated motif, both Fendi; This page: Long A-line coat with puffed sleeves; Promenade biker boots, both Fendi

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What do your first 30 mins of the day look like, your morning routine? Meditations are my kind of special morning rituals, it’s something I am loyal to practicing and I cannot remove this from my morning schedule. For me meditation sets a wonderful mood for the day because it helps to clear the mind and maximize your focus on priorities.

Tell us about your role as a curator? As a curator (& as an Emirati), I feel so much responsibility for building content that represents United Arab Emirates in the best possible way. We all know the UAE has a very rich history and there is still huge opportunity to develop further in this sector, espenection with the universe around me, and I like to follow the messages it reveals to me. cially on the front of dress history or contemporary fashion. I definitely enjoy working with other culWhich Instagram accounts do you follow for inspiration? Three of my tural institutions in commissioning designers from favourites are @dazedfashion @irisartadvisory @peachwithlove different disciplines to create new display objects What effect has social media played on the fashion industry’s growth? that represent local stories across cultural platSocial media has contributed a lot in changing the way we live. We forms, some of these examples are “Defashstrucnow often meet people via Instagram before even meeting them in tion” and “Fashcultivate” (co-curated with Fatma person, so it’s become another way of networking.

Al Mahmoud in 1971 Design Space).

What advice would you give to your younger self starting out? Always I have also worked with museums, archive lilook at your inner strength and build on that, because that is what braries and I consult some collectors in building makes a person unique in all forms of work or life. and growing their own personal This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what to collection portfolios. As a designyou is bravery? Taking brave steps er, the Irthi Contemporary Crafts in life always rewards you with more Council commissioned me to create knowledge, learning and experience. embroidered pieces that incorpoGetting rewarding opportunities is rate the Talli, an Emirati handialways challenging and inspiring at craft. The beauty of this project the same time. is that it includes the work of the When have you been brave in busiartisans and documents folkloric ness and in life? Moments where we stories from the UAE. can act bravely always appear in our lives. Bravery is being thoughtful and When you’ve moved in your career considerate of yourself, the commuor taken on new challenges, did you nity or the environment around you. go with your gut? I always trust my gut feeling, I have a special conOne of the brave moments in the design industry for myself along with other designers such as Nadine Kanso and Khalid Shafar was coming up with a collective design initiative, Design Ras Al Khor, to support local and regional designers in more than 11 design disciplines through providing them with a platform and sharing their work.

What’s next for you? This year, I’m focused on researching “A Manifesto for Collecting”, an agenda, which looks at a historical garment in the UAE and seeing how much of this has survived over time. I believe that objects tell us stories that oral history may have missed during documenting. Objects are so personal and they tell a story about a person or people through the function of how it was used.

“Taking brave steps in life always rewards you with more knowledge, learning and experience.”

Left page: Long A-line coat with puffed sleeves; gold-finish belt, both Fendi PRODUCTION: KELLI MADDOCK; VIDEOGRAPHER: STEVE ERANA; FASHION ASSISTANT: CAMILLE MACAWILI; HAIR AND MAKEUP: MELANIE MEYER AT MMG ARTISTS

COVER STORY

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THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE: BALMAIN

THE RENEGADES

Ivan oversized tortoiseshell-acetate sunglasses Dhs755 Linda Farrow X Attico

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Stretch-jersey bodysuit Dhs2,879 Alexandre Vauthier

Grecamania gold-tone earrings Dhs950 Versace avalaible at NET-A-PORTER

Pocket-detailed satin blazer Dhs8,670 Balmain

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WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS

Daring pieces that deliver some serious impact

Black Piercing Boater hat Dhs1,260 Ruslan Baginskiy

Sequined chiffon halterneck mini dress Dhs5,427 The Attico

Faux Leather Trouser Dhs199 Zara

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Bucket Bag £435.00 Vintage Versace available at Luxury Promise

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BITE Studios is the quietly confident brand that’s been making waves since 2016. The brand has carved its own identity within the fashion space creating sophisticated garments with a sustainable vision

WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS

Independent Thinkers

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“Treating

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sustainability

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important

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BITE

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BITE Studios is bravely progressive and quietly confident. First launching in 2016, the label was uncompromising in its values bravely putting sustainability at the forefront before it became interconnected with the fashion industry. With an acronym meaning ‘By Independent Thinkers for Environmental Progress’, the brand ensures that 95 per cent of every garment is made of organic, recycled or low impact materials. Four years on, BITE has been chosen as part of NET-APORTER’s – The Vanguard in their Net Sustain programme, giving the Stockholm and London-based brand a global platform like never before. What started as a simple Instagram message to BITE from the e-commerce platform catapulted the brand to new heights, making the sustainable conversation the label’s CEO William Lundgrenn and his four co-founders are so passion about, known to the world.

How did you begin your career in fashion? Veronika [Kant] and I met five years after graduating from business school. Suzanne is an established photographer and has created the visual identity of the brand alongside London-based designer Elliot, who has honed his eye for tailoring since founding his own label after Art School. We four met and formed BITE together out of the lack of environmental progress in the fashion industry. We wanted to create an alternative to people who, like us, believe in the urgency to fight climate change and don’t want to compromise when it comes to the clothes we wear.

You started BITE in 2016. How have things developed over the last four years? The sustainable conversation has moved quickly. When we started sustainability was seen more as a separate entity that was difficult to interconnect with fashion. Now material sustainability is a future target for most brands and more and more people are buying in line with their belief system. This is wonderful and of course the only way forward.

How did the brands start? My cofounder and partner in life Veronika and I formulated ideas around how the world of fashion would need to evolve to be in line with a new modern society. Both of us wanted to create a label that by true actions could set the tone for how sustainable fashion should look, feel and be talked about. For decades, ecofashion has been associated with a bohemian look. Treating sustainability and design as equally important is what truly sets BITE apart.

What does it represent? It represents a modern approach to design and environment, a new optimistic way forward with amazing garments that you will love. BITE wants to present a new way of relating to fashion with lots of love for the product. Why would you buy an oil-based synthetic garment that does not breath at all closest to your skin, when you can wear a luxurious organic garment with a completely different quality and airy feel to it.

What is the DNA of the brand? We should hope that BITE feels progressive and somehow quietly confident, since that is what we feel about what we do. We very much enjoy working in a way that matches our belief system and that releases a lot of energy and inspiration for us.

What sets BITE apart from other brands? We are very proud of the philosophy and the people behind the BITE. We start in the very beginning in sourcing and developing new materials. We have taken

out almost all petroleum-based fabrics from our garments. We collaborate with our suppliers in developing beautiful high-quality organic silk, organic cotton, organic wool and organic linen as well as recycled and innovative fabrics such as bio-vegetable leather from corn. We take great pride in that 95 per cent of every BITE garment is made of organic, recycled or low impact materials. We have always believed that the perfect pieces for your wardrobe are the ones lasting over time, that becomes one with your personal expression and even more valuable over the years. In the core is the grounding principles on how we view the world, the element of carefully selected fabrics, details, materials and construction based on time, knowledge and beauty. Working with a respect for nature and all living things connects an element that luxury fashion traditionally has been lacking.

You have a strong focus on sustainability – was this a key factor for the brand from the start? Sustainability was the key factor from the start, since we believed the industry needed to change, but also because we personally would never have started a label that did not care for the environment in a time when this is one of our most important crises to solve collectively.

What support has being involved with NET-A-PORTER’s The Vanguard programme? It has been truly great to be chosen as a Vanguard brand by NET-A-PORTER. NETA-PORTER has given us a global outreach that is difficult for a new independent brand to get on its own.

They found our Instagram (@bitestudios) and reached out for a meeting to view the collections.

How have you adapted over recent month to accommodate the global changes? We were used to working remote and digital even before the pandemic, with creatives in London, New York and Head Office in Sweden. Like all luxury brands, we have faced difficulties so it has been a lot of re-planning and hard work this spring and summer.

Where do you get your motivation from? We want to achieve big things and are only at the very beginning.

If we can shift the industry just slightly in the right direction we have achieved a lot, but we want to make as much impact as possible.

What advice would you have given yourself when you started the brand? We got so much advice in the beginning and have received a lot of support throughout, so I think we have avoided many mistakes by meeting many wonderful and generous people that believed in our vision.

What are the biggest challenges you’ve had to overcome and what have been your proudest moments? Starting up your own business always means a lot of hard work and constantly overcoming obstacles. Getting the first investment and seeing the first amazing sales figures and seeing people in BITE on the streets has been wonderful.

This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – how do you define bravery? We like the idea that bravery is different for everyone and that it can only be defined in relation to yourself. Being vulnerable could be one definition, daring to change your habits and consumption patterns could be another.

And finally, when it comes to the future of BITE, what are you most excited about? Everything! We are looking forward to the upcoming 10 years, and think we will achieve great things and be a positive needed force for change!

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IMAGES: SUPPLIED

“We like the idea that bravery is different for everyone and that it can only be defined in relation to yourself. Being vulnerable could be one definition, daring to change your habits and consumption patterns could be another.”

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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS

Tell us about your role as Global Buying Director at NET-A-PORTER. My role is to set the global buying strategy, attend the fashion weeks and meet with designers to explore collaboration opportunities. The ultimate goal is to curate a destination where customers can discover new upcoming designers and the most cherished luxury brands, in order to remain an unparalleled shopping experience.

Previously normal days used to vary so much, but when I was in London (and in the office!), I used to be in back-to-back meetings. Now I’m in a lot of Zoom and Webex meetings, I’ll have calls with my senior team to go over the buying strategy and orders for the upcoming season. And then, with our merchandisers, and marketing teams to discuss upcoming brand launches, the site navigation or data insights teams to hear how our brands are performing. It’s nonstop!

When we meet with all these internal teams like site trading we already know what’s working – we meet in order to further drive trade and maximise all opportunities. Of course travel used to be a huge part of my job, where I would travel frequently to scout new designers and meet with our existing brands.

Which brands do you personally buy into?

I love Khaite, Bottega, Saint Laurent, Frankie Shop and Peter Do. And The Row, JW Anderson and Joseph, especially for the FW20 season.

What makes a brand worthy of being in NET-A-PORTER’s seasonal lineup of key brands – The Vanguard? Each season we look for designers that have a distinct brand DNA and aesthetic, with a unique brand story that we feel will really elevate the programme and resonate with our customers.

Young brands have to show authenticity in their designs and a directional brand perspective. It is so key for any new designer to develop a signature that they can stay true to, whilst continuing to evolve and develop over time. Ultimately, we are looking for brands that we believe have the potential to grow into meaningful businesses with a global resonance. The brands we launch each season within the Vanguard programme have been selected because of the impact we think they’re going to have on the fashion landscape. Each are happy that the NET-APORTER teams can be supportive and helpful every step of the way to help them grow.

The Brand CHAMPION

Elizabeth von der Goltz, Global Buying Director NET-A-PORTER is brave enough to go with her gut when it comes to spotting the next hero brand

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Which brands or beauty products are your real hero buys? I’m obsessed with everything Dr Barbara Sturm does – I use her Hyaluronic Acid and enzyme cleanser daily. I also love U Beauty’s Resurfacing Compound. And Augustinus Bader is another hero brand for us all, The Cream is my daily go to. I also love Tata Harper’s cleansers, clarifying mask and eye serum – and of course Angela Caglia’s LED mask!

How much of that you and your team do is based on data and how important is gut feel? We are super lucky to have a large team that works on various pillars of strategy, buying and analytics. The team builds and utilizes various reports to assess performance and project future buying construct. We use engagement data from our marketing touchpoints and sell-through data from our buys to evolve our offering to provide both a global buy of luxury brands and also shorter bursts of regionally or trend-driven assortments.

It can also be just as important to make decisions based on gut feeling and emotion – sometimes you just know a brand or product is going to be a hit!

Which Instagram accounts do you follow for inspiration or books would you recommend?

I am a very avid reader mostly of contemporary fiction, some recent favourites include: Homegoing by Yaa Gyasi, The Overstory by Richard Powers, The Water Dancer by TaNehisi Coates and all of the Elena Ferrante series.

I follow lots of of great Instagram accounts for instpiraton including:@thesushiguide and @thefeedfeed for food, @departuresmag and @condenasttraveller for travel and @yoyakulala, @evachen and @giorgiatordin for fashion.

We love your style; how do you approach planning a seasonal wardrobe? Thank you so much – I always dress for the occasion, which is mainly based on a combination of the destination, the season and the weather. This fall I am loving all shades of brown from taupe to camel to chocolate. Knitwear from knit dresses, layered over knit pants and loving all polo sweaters.

There are key timeless wardrobe items that work across seasons – for example a perfect crisp cotton shirt from The Row is a key piece for us this season, and every season! The 90s ‘little black dress’ as seen at Versace and Bottega is also set to be a key seasonal buy, and is a forever classic. And finally tailoring is a wardrobe staple, and can be dressed up or down, across seasons.

Over the years of attending shows, have you mastered any packing tips to keep it light? It’s certainly a key skill to master! For beauty I always take travel size products and I love to travel in super comfy jumpsuits. I always keep everything on a hanger and lay it down in my suitcase so when I arrive in the hotel I can just literally hang everything up! For Paris Fashion Week I opt in for classic pieces with a twist. For Milan Fashion Week I pay homage to ultra-luxe made-in-Italy labels by opting for clashing separates by Gucci and Prada, and adding polish in the form of a leather coat and superchic accessories. For London Fashion Week; Blue jeans and a quintessentially British trench coat make for the perfect base. For New York Fashion Week, I opt for the effortless chic looks by wearing smart, yet contemporary pieces, like modern suiting.

Which brands are you particularly proud that you and the team have discovered and how do you usually source new brands? Personally I am most proud of discovering Halpern, Monse and Christopher John Rogers – who was one of our Vanguard designers last season. Instagram now plays a huge part when it comes to finding and discovering new talent, for example we found brands including Attico, Cult Gaia, Staud and Alanui in this way.

Another good example of this is of one of our previous Vanguard designers Peter Do whom we found through the model, Maggie Maurer’s Instagram. Sometimes it’s through a fashion news handle, or editors and even friends – we are always looking for talent wherever we are in the world, even in the digital space. But word of mouth, showroom visits and those in the industry are just as key for us in terms of tools for discovery of new talent.

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Brave Identity

LIYA is the Georgia-based brand bringing brave new shapes to fashion’s forefront

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“Bravery is embracing your fears but not forgetting to stay kind and empathetic on the way,” Liya Goglidze, designer and cofounder of her namesake fashion brand LIYA. In just three years since launching, the Georgia-based label has carved its own brave identity, refusing to put their designs, nor their customers, in a specific box.

The brand has stuck to a clear mantra: “A strong belief in individuality and love for one’s individual presence, is the driving force behind LIYA.” Goglidze’s designs fuse the function women seek in everyday wear, with a contemporary feminine edge.

As for how it all began, the LIYA brand was born from a childrenswear label Goglidze founded in 2014 called InkyGold. “It was a very interesting area to work in, much different from womenswear and absolutely challenging in many ways,” Goglidze tells Emirates Woman. “We received many requests to develop the same styles for mothers, mother-daughter looks and from there it all evolved further – the development of womenswear was a natural continuation.”

While it was a natural continuation for the brand, it was with the help Goglidze’s co-founder, Anna Mchedlishvili, that her dream became a reality. “It takes more than one person to build a vision,” the LIYA designer admits. “She navigated and turned all my sketches into reality.” To be able to introduce LIYA to international fashion figures, the co-founders launched the brand on the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week stage in Tbilisi, which was only established two years prior to their launch.

Since then LIYA has grown the brand both in terms of design and execution.

Partnering with global luxury e-commerce platforms including LuisaViaRoma and Farfetch, as well as notable brick & mortar stores such as Harvey Nichols and Printemps. It’s a milestone that Goglidze is honoured by. “It is always exciting to see key e-commerce sites being interested in your brand,” she says. In fact, it’s what drives her to do more with the brand and to be bolder in her choices. “It definitely motivates us to move forward and be braver with what we do,” she says. Discussing being approached

by LuisaViaRoma for Fall/Winter 19/20, Goglidze admits it was completely out of the blue. “They saw our designs in a showroom in Paris and instantly took the collection,” she says. “It was very unexpected and extremely exciting!”

Not only is LIYA a brand that is one to watch closely, Goglidze is also proud to fly the flag for her country and takes pride in how e-commerce giants are taking notice of the region as a whole. “We are very happy and proud that such a small country has so much talent represented worldwide,” she says. It was actually the spirit and supporting nature of her home country that gave her the courage to launch LIYA. Goglidze was born in Georgia, but grew up in Moscow and Vienna and studied in Florence and Milan, it was only when she returned to Tbilisi that she gained the nerve to launch herself on the international fashion scene. “It was a dream that was in the back of my mind for a long time. Moving to Georgia and the whole creative atmosphere and support system helped me and made me brave enough to launch the brand,” she tells Emirates Woman.

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Through this support system, Goglidze has found the strength to stay true to her vision and craft – individual identity. Instead, she puts the onus of the brand’s definition to her peers and customers. “I do not try to define the styles of the brand in a particular way,” she says. “I like to hear what and how others define it for themselves. I hope that each and everyone has their own vision of LIYA unique to them.”

In doing so, LIYA has gained the attention of many celebrities and even royals such as Her Majesty Queen Rania Al Abdullah of Jordan. It’s been a constant learning curve

for Goglidze and her team, who admits the brand began in a very “complicated way”.

In the initial stages, the fashion designer found it difficult to prove she was, in fact, capable of producing a quality brand. However, by building a loyal team, learning and understanding their mistakes and coming by reliable partners, LIYA is stronger than ever. It’s a testament to what staying true to your vision and having the strength not to stray from that can do. As Goglidze says confidently, “Right now we know where we stand as a brand, we know our customers and our place in this industry.”

“Bravery is embracing your fears but not forgetting to stay kind and empathetic on the way.”

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Built on craftsmanship and quality, Marei1998 is the luxury brand delivering the real deal in faux fur

WORDS: AMY SESSIONS

What do your first 30 mins of the day look like, your morning routine? Six months ago, my morning routine was very different to what it is today. The ease of waking up without rushing out of the door is a result of the work-from-home era we are living in. These days, I begin each morning by drinking several glasses of water and having a small breakfast, going for an early swim in the sea, taking a shower and getting to work. It’s amazing how much can be done in 30-minutes when you are focused and relaxed.

How did you know it was the right time to launch Marei1998 and what were the stepping-stones to that point? The moment came when I was 16 years old and realized that I had my own deep vision and language of fashion that I wanted to share with the world. Ever since I can remember, materials and textures have fascinated me.

Several trips to Paris and New York at a young age really shaped my understanding of the industry. From there, the two processes clicked simultaneously, and my intuition led me to launching Marei1998.

You’re New York based, how has that helped or hindered growing the brand?

Before Covid happened I spent a lot of my time in New York, this city and the people there inspire me greatly. Simultaneously, Tel Aviv is where the studio is located and my family and friends here inspire me. Production happens all over the world from Asia to Europe so the base of the creative process is global.

You spent much of your childhood close to your grandmother, how has this influenced your aesthetic? Even until today, my grandmother continues to play a major role in my life and evolution as a designer and as an independent woman. Her style is deeply influenced by her travels around the world, having visited 35 countries.

She also appreciates and values pieces that have remained in her wardrobe for 40 years. Her approach of less-is-more

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really shaped my idea of design and the need to counter the fast fashion trend that is simply not sustainable.

Do you feel more drawn to the creative or the business side of the brand and how have you grown the team to support this?

My experience in starting a fashion brand is that each side is equally important.

Initially I concentrated on how to apply my creative direction and vision into a business model that is sustainable and has growth potential. Being able to then delegate different aspects of the business (logistics, production, customer service, social media/PR) to my talented team is only because I spent more than a year “practicing the craft” of being a Creative Director. Today, I am still involved in every aspect of the label because I truly enjoy it. The feeling of working with people who inspire you – whether in the studio or digitally – is a major factor in where we are today, and I intend to keep learning and developing.

What has been the biggest hurdle since starting your own brand and how did you overcome it? I‘ve learned to trust myself in difficult situations. My intuition has led me to some places I only previously dreamt of. It’s important to listen to other opinions, but ultimately only you know what is best for yourself and your business.

Do you have any mentors or guides and how does this help navigate the right path? My father is the person I turn to the most, in challenging situations. I always find that having an outside opinion from someone who knows you well can really shed light on what’s important, and what’s not. This understanding helps with the creative process and being able to focus on growing the brand.

What is your approach to scaling the business and are there any markets you’d like to focus on? Scaling Marei1998 focuses on limited-edition pieces. We don’t want to create just to create. Each item is de-

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veloped individually and has its own identity, while still being part of a “family” rather than just a collection.

You have clients the globe over – do you see any buying patterns based on regions or countries? We are privileged to have a truly international client base. We’ve had items purchased from clients in almost every continent, which makes us believe that our items can be celebrated by women who share universal qualities of sustainability.

You have both outerwear and accessories –

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how important to you is it to grow the offering across categories? A cohesive aesthetic can be applied to both outwear and accessories.

This has been our approach to all the pieces in the Marei1998 family, for example The Pampas bag can be worn individually and matched with adjacent brands in the market as well and beautiful basics.

How has social media affected building Marei1998 and which platform has been most useful? Social media is a major force in the fashion industry. We are working to use this

tool in increasingly smart ways. I’ve always admired photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson and Slim Aarons, both of whom have shaped my design aesthetic. Platforms such as Instagram provide a very attentive audience that supports our business.

Which Instagram accounts do you follow for inspiration? @NOWNESS, @Kat_in_NYC, @Tailorxtaylors, and @Sophie Buhai. I tend to float towards visual accounts that aren’t necessarily in fashion, or individuals who I can relate to and am inspired by.

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“Bravery for me is to take chances, push yourself out of your

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co

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Maya Reik

comfort zone and not be afraid to fail.”

We love all your styles; how do you perpetually innovate? I am inspired by so much art, and many conversations with people that evoke new and interesting ideas. I also enjoy both being alone and with my thoughts as part of the creative process.

Do you have any pre-bedtime rituals? I try to meditate for five minutes every night and focus on my breath. It helps clear the mind before sleep. Other than that, reading or having a conversation with my husband.

What do you always carry with you when

travelling? Vitamins, a book, and the Marei1998 black Pampas bag.

What advice would you give to your younger self starting out? To be more confident and to trust my instincts.

If you had not launched Marei1998, which other role would you choose career-wise?

Working with children to help foster a new generation of human beings who are both creative and kind.

This issue is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what to you is bravery? Bravery for me is to take chances,

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push yourself out of your comfort zone and not be afraid to fail. In life there are no mistakes. Feeling confident even if I don’t have the answers and to the belief in your ability to thrive even when out of your comfort zone.

When have you been brave in business? By forgoing the traditional industry norms of sticking to a fashion calendar, and by not compromising in my design aesthetic and standard of materials. It can be brave to pass up offers, because the future is always uncertain, but not every opportunity is the right one.

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Bold accessories make a brave change for FW20

The Hero Buys BOTTEGA VENETA 01

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01. Oversized flat-top acetate sunglasses Dhs1,410 Celine Eyewear; 02. Cassette chain-embellished padded intrecciato suede shoulder bag Dhs14,497 Bottega Veneta; 03. Niki Baby mini quilted leather shoulder bag Dhs9,697 Saint Laurent; 04. Croissant small leather cross-body bag Dhs3,695 Lemaire available at Matches Fashion; 05. Limited Edition Leather Purse with wrist strap Dhs99 Zara; 06. Croc-effect leather knee-high boots Dhs2,500 Paris Texas available at My Theresa; 07. Suzanne medium leather shoulder bag Dhs8,646 Saint Laurent; 08. The Small Shoulder Pouch Dhs10,650 Bottega Veneta available at Moda Operandi; 09. Brown terry Baguette Bag Dhs9,290 Fendi; 10. Gradient shield-lens acetate sunglasses Dhs1,630 Loewe; 11. Lupita Glass PVC and leather mules Dhs2,177 Amina Muaddi

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FRENCH POLISH

Anthony Vaccarello celebrates the power of the female form at Saint Laurent WORDS: AMY SESSIONS

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ALL AVAILABLE AT SAINT LAURENT

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YES MASTER Chucky knits and mannish cuts to master FW20

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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS

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ALL AVAILABLE AT BRUNELLO CUCCINELLI

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T H E

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C U T

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ALAÏA’S

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THEN & NOW

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Givenchy reprises the Antigona’s signature structure for FW20

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All in the Detail

Kristina Fidelskaya x HALM partner in a collaboration built on craftsmanship for FW20

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ALL AVAILABLE AT KRISTINA FIDELSKAYA

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ALL THE WAY UP

BALMAIN

BALMAIN

THE ROW

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VALENTINO

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BV Tire waved-sole leather boots Dhs4,360 Bottega Veneta available at MATCHESFASHION

Combat boots Dhs1,570 INCH2

Leather zipper ankle boots Dhs3,490 Giuseppe Zanotti Over-the-knee leather boots Dhs5,648 Ann Demeulemeester Leather ankle boots Dhs4,938 The Row available at NET-A-PORTER

Bolcheva 120 fringed suede over-the-knee boots Dhs12,339 Christian Louboutin

Knee high boots Dhs2,177 Casadei available at FARFETCH

Suede over-the-knee boots Dhs6,315 Balmain

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Alessandro 105 suede over-the-knee boots Dhs5,289 Jennifer Chamandi

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WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

The Innovators

MATCHESFASHION is supporting young designers, giving them the courage to pursue their dreams and build new empires The global pandemic has left young businesses and emerging designers more vulnerable than ever. Innovation and adaptation are just some of the ways you can safeguard your growing label, but support from the power players can certainly help.

MATCHESFASHION is helping a group of new talent thrive through these difficult times with the launch of The Innovators Programme. Developed by Buying Director Natalie Kingham and Head of Menswear Damien Paul who work closely with all designers that MATCHESFASHION brings on board, the programme ensures that brands receive support across social, content and marketing throughout the year whilst also providing business mentorship and financial support – the global luxury platform has set aside £1.8 million (approximately Dhs 8.4 million) towards the programme.

The 12 names were chosen for having a powerful brand DNA and a global appeal. Below, we speak to three key womenswear designers as well as Kingham about how this programme is supporting and elevating young talent to greater heights.

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THEBE MAGUGU

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Natalie Kingham

speak to our fashion-pioneering customer to brands that will speak to our purist customer, for example a successful brand could be a minimal T-shirt brand where the cut is fantastic and the fabrications are amazing.

What is the key value of The Innovators Programme? I think overall, each designer will receive robust support from MATCHESFASHION across the business including buying, PR, marketing and social. I think knowing that they have this support over the course of a year means that they can plan ahead and will allow them to have more financial stability. As part of the year long programme we will be giving each brand a lot more visibility so that their story, ethos and what they stand for can really be conveyed to our customer so that they understand the brand and want to invest in a brand of the future. We will also offer mentorship over the year in a very organic way depending on what they need; it will be very personalised to them.

What have been the biggest challenges for young brands during the global pandemic? Financial stability is probably one of the biggest challenges these brands have had to face during this difficult time.

Younger brands do have the opportunity (because they are small) to be more flexible and agile but like everyone during this pandemic planning for the long term when the short term is so unpredictable is challenging.

This is one of the reasons that we set up this programme for next year, to help futureproof some of the amazing young talent out there.

What is the bravest decision you have made in your career? I think it is brave to pick up new brands, you never know how the customer will react so it is important to really believe in the designer and in the product.

It is great when it does really resonate with the customer and a highlight for me would have to be when we launched Vetements, we believed in so much, so it was fantastic to see it become such a success story.

Michael Halpern – Founder & Designer, Halpern What is the greatest value of The Innovators Programme? Being a part of The Innovators Programme is incredibly exciting! At Halpern, I have worked with MATCHESFASHION from our first season, and we even did a really incredible trip to Dubai with them to begin to introduce Halpern to the customers there. It was such a wonderful experience and being a part of this programme will strengthen our relationship even more. Our brand will benefit from the amazing amount of exposure on the site with all of the brilliantly added marketing that goes into a project like this.

Did this support give you the confidence to take Halpern to the next level? I think any store that invests in you will help take it to the next level. Whether that investment comes in the form of a project like the innovators, deepening the buy or even building up face time with you from a business perspective.

How do you balance the creative and the business elements of growing a brand? I think for any creative person running a business can be daunting in the beginning. At the end of the day, I am a classically trained fash-

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Natalie Kingham – Fashion & Buying Director, MATCHESFASHION What makes a new designer stand out? It is important that designers have their own unique point of view and DNA that they stick to. To be a great designer isn’t necessarily about following trends but about being authentic and being true to your own vision.

With so many brands on the market, how can new designers stand out? I think all new designers are brave to start their own brand and launch a new collection, especially now.

I don’t think designers need to necessarily be brave or bold with their designs but instead with their vision. At MATCHESFASHION we look at everything from brands that will

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“To be a great designer isn’t necessarily about following trends but about being authentic and being true to your own vision.” ion designer with roots in couture and a love of making things, so learning to run a business with employees, production runs, and complicated financial situations was a hugely steep learning curve for me. Thankfully, I have been able to be surrounded by brilliantly smart people who really know the ins and outs of this business to help me grow my company to where it is right now. The MATCHESFASHION Innovators Programme will help strengthen this path even more.

What is the bravest decision you have made?

The bravest decision I think any designer can make is to start their own company. Running a fashion brand is an enormous responsibility in a market that is constantly volatile, so putting yourself out there is a huge risk. Thankfully, we have been so wonderfully received over the past three years of business, so continuing to grow and design the types of collections I love is something I am so grateful for.

What can we look forward to from Halpern next? At Halpern, fantasy and glamour is at the heart of where I design from. Whether that fantasy is wearing a fabulous dress or suit out at night or hosting at home in a zebra print caftan by the pool, that sense of whimsy and luxury is what we will continue to present. Optimism and hope are really important factors for me, and these ideals will be always represented in the collections.

Thebe Magugu – Founder & Designer, THEBE MAGUGU What is the greatest value of The Innovators Programme? I think The Innovators Programme equips its designers with support across all the critical departments. Visibility I think is an important aspect of building a brand, and MATCHESFASHION – with its sophistication in logistics and high digital foot-traffic – can allow for massive application of any brand it focuses on. As we are at the beginning of our journey, programmes like this are worth their weight in gold.

Kévin Germanier Founder – President & Creative Director, Germanier What is the greatest value of The Innovators Programme? What I am strongly interested in is the mentorship not only to work with the buying team but also social media and marketing teams. I love learning from experienced people. This programme is unique as we are able to communicate and share ideas closely with each other, that human side that sometimes we miss in the fashion industry, this transparency is healthy and will only benefit both sides of a partnership. We, as Innovators, are breaking the rules and it is such a nice feeling to know that people are supporting our businesses.

Did this support give you the confidence to take Germanier to the next level? Definitely. It is always easier to go big and adapt your creativity to more commercial pieces. Knowing that MATCHESFASHION celebrates creativity helps innovators to be even more creative. I feel extremely motivated and I feel like I can take some risks, as I Did this support give you the confidence to know that they will be by my side and guide take Magugu to the next level? In times like me in order to create the best products. this when one continues to operate in uncertain times, I think it acts as a slight relief How do you balance the creative and the that one of the stockists – particularly one business elements of growing a brand? I’ve as big as MATCHESFASHION – will comfound myself loving making commercial mit for 12 months to buying the collection pieces. I do enjoy problem solving, limitaand providing opportunities across markettions and challenges. Therefore, it is always ing and mentorship. This would certainly super tricky to adapt my creativity to a more make one confident – because confidence is commercial product. Retaining your DNA brought on by a sense of stability. I also enjoy and creativity whilst making a commercial the learning component brought on through product is a great challenge. That is the esthe mentorship this programme will offer sence of this programme to be honest. After each season you are learning what is workHow do you balance the creative and the ing and what is not, what to keep and what business elements of growing a brand? I to drop. But also, surprisingly enough, what think the two cycle into one another. If fashyou think will work might not. ion as a business is about selling product, I think creativity allows you to differentiate What is the bravest decision you have made? what it is about your product from the rest.

Learning to say ‘no’. It takes courage to say That being said, I think creativity also gives ‘no’ as a new designer because you are territhe brand a sense of soul – without the aesfied that the opportunity will not come back again. However, if you are looking to build thetic propositions, the new approaches and a sustainable business it is vital that your out-the-box thinking – the brand will have base is strong. nothing that drives it or even determines its values. Creativity in large part is problem What can we look forward to from Germanier solving and business without it renders a next? More drama and more colour! We have brand stagnant. I always try and make sure amazing products coming up and strong acwhatever I do has a creative integrity becessories and we will work by drops and not cause that allows people to connect with it, collections anymore, which will allow us to thus encouraging a sale. be more flexible and even more creative.

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What is the bravest decision you have made?

Starting a brand. Breaking into the fashion industry is still as tough as ever and often students are discouraged from starting their own business and rather steered toward working for another company. Simply telling myself ‘whatever comes’ and marching down to South Africa’s business registration company was the bravest moment of my life.

What can we look forward to from Magugu next? Thoughtful projects. I’ve been thinking a lot about my impact within my community over and above employment. I have been looking at making socially conscious projects and initiatives. I am also excited about the Summer collection, which is based on a series of interviews I conducted with confessed female spies.

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Leap of Faith

With over a decade of experience in fashion, Sheikha Amal Al Maktoum decided to brave going it alone

WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS

In 2016 Sheikha Amal Al Maktoum decided to launch her own luxury fashion brand, Azzalia. Specialising in couture abayas, gowns and eveningwear, four years on this brave leap of faith is paying off. Emirates Woman sat down with Sheikha Amal to find out about the growth of the brand, the inspiration behind the label and to ask what bravery means to her.

You started Azzalia in 2016. Why did you want to launch your own fashion label? I have been in this industry since 2007. I had another fashion brand with a partner in 2006, but a decade later I decided to launch my own brand with it’s own DNA. I always had a passion for fashion although I studied business, but happily these two spheres sit well together.

How have things developed and changed in the last four years for the brand? I think the brand has evolved and managed to build a strong presence in the region because when I first launched it I insisted that the brand ran

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with three different lines dedicated to three different types of woman in mind so there is an element of the bespoke.

What was the inspiration behind your label?

I was always passionate about fashion and it was just a continuation of this passion.

Azzalia stands for Azalea, which is a flower, but I spelled it with my children’s names Azza and Alia who are the joy of my life and this brings a personal touch.

What does Azzalia represent? Other than representing my girls’ names, Azzalia is a representation of my love for fashion.

What sets Azzalia apart from other clothing brands? Azzalia with its three lines offers women a large selection of different styles.

When we design we consider a lot of elements – the silhouette, fabric, trend, quality. We have access to suppliers worldwide to ensure that our fabrics and embellishments are unique and of the best quality. We keep

up to date with the next season’s emerging trends and I travel extensively, visiting textile exhibitions worldwide to source the best materials.

The name of your brand takes inspiration from your children. What has it been like launching a brand with young children? Well, I have always been a working woman and my children always have been the push and inspiration to continue developing my brand also with the continuous support of my husband and parents.

You originally studied business at university, what led you to going into fashion? I think a fashion brand without a strong business acumen can’t survive. Nevertheless, I took few courses in Central Saint Martins, London to enhance my skills.

How have things changed for you, your brand and the way you work since COVID-19? COVID-19 has changed the world, and the fash-

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ion industry has been highly affected, but we already have a strong well-established online presence so we focused on that. In addition, we launched capsule collections to accommodate the new changes in shopping trends.

It has been a tough time but we are very positive and focusing on growing the brand and being part of the industry’s recovery.

What excites you about the fashion industry in the UAE and the GCC region?

I think the UAE has a very central location in the Middle East and is a great hub surrounded by different GCC markets such as Saudi Arabia. During the past few years the fashion industry has evolved and the clients have definitely become more aware and selective which

gave an opportunity for our brand to grow and get appreciated as the style and quality have caught the eye of the trendy customers.

Where do you get your motivation from? I have been supported greatly by my family, they encourage and push me to excel and create.

What advice do you wish you had received on the beginning of your journey to success?

When I launched my brand I already had over 10 years’ experience in this industry. I’m a fast learner and I believe you learn from your mistakes, so it’s all a process of trial and error.

What hurdles have you had to overcome? I never see hurdles only challenges and they are all learning experiences that make you stronger.

What are your top career milestones? Firstly,

I was Vice Chairperson of the Sharjah Business Women Council for six years, where I got to work with business women and develop programmes to support them. I also won a Dubai Fashion & Design Council award and got to showcase my brand at London Fashion Week. Finally, I won an Arab Women Award – Designer of the Year in 2017.

When it comes to the future of Azzalia, what are you most excited about? The brand has great potential and we are now focusing on international expansion because I feel the brand is ready to move to the next level.

This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – how do you define bravery? It is the courage to survive when others can’t.

“Bravery it is the courage to survive when others can’t.”

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C R E AT I V E D I R E CT I O N : A M Y S E S S I O N S

P H OTO G R A P H Y: VAU G H A N T R E Y V E L L A N

The Awakening

Rouse the spirit with Rouge Hermès AW20 Limited Edition collection

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Previous pages: (left) Rouge Hermès, Satin Lipstick, Orange Boîte #33; (right) Rouge Hermès, Satin Lipstick, Rouge Casaque #64; This page: Rouge Hermès, Matte Lipstick, Limited Edition, Rose Nuit #54

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Left page: Rouge Hermès, Satin Lipstick, Limited Edition, Rose Ombré #45; This page: Rouge Hermès, Satin Lipstick, Rouge Casaque #64

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This page: Rouge Hermès, Satin Lipstick, Orange Boîte #33; Right page: Rouge Hermès, Satin Lipstick, Limited Edition, Rose Pommette #32

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MODEL: JAK BUENO AT SIGNATURE ELEMENT; HAIR AND MAKEUP: ANIA PONIATOWSKA AT MMG ARTISTS THE ROUGE HERMÈS AW20 LIMITED EDITION COLOURS WILL BE AVAILABLE IN SELECT HERMÈS STORES THROUGHOUT THE REGION FROM OCTOBER 15TH 2020 FOR AED295.

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Hot New Buys Our best edit of the latest beauty products

Subtle Scents If you are looking for a perfume that’s sophisticated and powerful yet subtle, then make Idôle from Lancôme your new go-to.

Dhs387 Lancôme 50ml

LONG LASHES Encased in a gold wand Hourglass’ newest mascara is all you need to give your lashes an elongated smudge-proof look, making it a staple for your makeup bag. The brush coats every lash without creating any clumps and can be removed effortlessly by dabbing your eyes with a little warm water. Dhs170 Hourglass at Sephora Middle East

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Nourish With niacinamide, oat lipids and oils this nourishing cream helps improve the skin’s outer barrier, leaving it refreshingly fresh and moisturised. Gently massage into cleansed skin before bed for best results.

Dhs397 Verso 50ml at NET-A-PORTER

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The Calm Apply the revitalizing balm with CBD and essential oils to damp skin for a highly moisturised and restorative body treatment that is guaranteed to leave you with a deep sense of calm. Dhs264 Ila-spa

FRAGRANT MOVES Bring a golden touch of glamour back to your beauty table with this art deco-inspired bottle from Tom Ford. A bold and brave blend of Back Orchid, Ylang Ylang, Patchouli and Black Truffle, it will leave you smelling superior. Dhs577 Tom Ford Beauty at NET-A-PORTER

Smooth Operator Make dry skin a thing of the past with this velvety-soft whipped cream from Ouai. Formulated with cupuacu butter, coconut oil and the powerful antioxidant moisturiser squalane, it is quickly absorbed by the skin leaving it soft and smooth. Dhs140 Ouai

The new armour

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The Uplift This complex primer features two types of hyaluronic acid plus glycerin which helps triple skin’s moisture immediately upon application leaving it looking healthy and glowingly radiant. Gently blend all over your face with your fingertips. Dhs144 EstÊe Lauder for 40ml

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A fusion of traditional South Korean beauty remedies and French Luxury, the Red Pepper Pulp by Erborian is ideal for your skin. It not only gives skin a youthful glowing appearance but ensures skin is perfectly hydrated, radiant and protected at all times.

Dhs212 Erborian at spacenk.com

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with very little downtime and is incredibly safe. We’re using your own plasma so there is no foreign material and no risk of allergic reactions. PRP doesn’t replace fillers or Botox because the result is different. Fillers are used to replace volume loss and Botox erases lines and wrinkles. PRP works in conjunction with these.

THE PRECAUTIONS Like most skin treatments, you do want to avoid the sun before and after PRP for at least one week. Additionally, active skin irritations, like eczema or herpes infections are contraindications for PRP.

THE AFTER-EFFECTS

Brave Beauty

In terms of beauty, other than going under the knife – it doesn’t get much braver than the vampire facial PRP is the term often used for the increasingly popular platelet rich plasma facial rejuvenation treatment. As the cosmetic industry has continued to develop, you no longer need to go under the knife to see amazing results. Treatments involving lasers and injections can still be daunting however, especially if you’re using these for the first time. Platelet Rich Plasma facial rejuvenation treatment (PRP) is one such treatment, commonly referred to as the ‘vampire facial’. Aptly named, as the treatment requires blood to be drawn, then put through a special machine to separate the red cells from the nutrient-rich and regenerative plasma. This plasma is then injected into the facial skin, where it is supposedly meant to encourage collagen production and soften fine lines.

It’s an incredibly popular treatment globally, which is reflected in the increase in treatment requests within the UAE. American Board Certified Dermatologist Dr Lana Kashlan of CosmeSurge Dubai has witnessed this increase directly. While the sight of the so-called vampire facial can be daunting, Dr Kashlan actually says it’s one of the safest treatments you can do. So, if you’re looking to take a bold step in your beauty regime,

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this could be the time to do it as Dr Kashlan breaks down exactly what goes into PRP treatment and what you can expect from it.

WHAT PRP INVOLVES PRP is a treatment that is really popular with my patients. It’s earned the nickname of the “Vampire Facial” because it involves drawing the patient’s own blood and extracting the plasma from the blood and re-introducing the plasma to the skin. The platelets have within them growth factors which are proteins that stimulate different biochemical processes in the skin. Specifically, PRP is a great way to stimulate collagen production and improve the microcirculation to the skin. So typically, we draw a patient’s blood, process the blood to extract the plasma and then either inject or microneedle the plasma into the skin. We can also use PRP to stimulate hair growth on the scalp and I use it to improve dark circles under the eyes. The procedure is pain-free because we use a topical anesthetic.

HOW PRP DIFFERS FROM FILLERS AND OTHER INJECTIONS PRP is one of my favourite treatments because it improves the quality of the skin

THE ALTERNATIVES I think deeper chemical peels like Dermamelan and laser-resurfacing procedures like the Erbium laser require a bit more bravery. These procedures are incredibly safe but they have a fair amount of downtime: redness, swelling, and peeling of the skin. This can require someone to either block out their professional and social calendar or be bold and continue their usual activities in spite of a little downtime.

I find that there is a higher level of appreciation for beauty in the Arab world than in the US. Both women and men in the Middle East recognize that taking care of their skin and enhancing their beauty is part of their overall health and wellness. There is a true sense of pride in looking after one’s appearance. Because of this, there is definitely a heightened sense of awareness when it comes to the latest procedures when I compare my patients in the UAE to my patients in the US. In Dubai, my patients come in asking for the latest treatments by name. I would say my patients in Dubai are definitely braver and bolder when it comes to beauty and skincare. This can be a good thing or a bad thing. When treatments are done under the guidance of a qualified dermatologist or plastic surgeon, there is nothing to fear.

Unfortunately, too often, I see patients who have been “botched” by other doctors who performed procedures that patients either didn’t need or performed them incorrectly.

So, I always encourage people to be cautious and to do their research before undergoing any cosmetic procedure.

IMAGE: GETTY

WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS

Typically, patients will have mild redness and swelling in the first 24-48 hours of PRP. Usually one week after treatment, patients will start to notice that their skin looks brighter and more even-toned and feels smoother.

This is what we refer to as the “PRP Glow.”

But the real benefits come from repeated sessions where you can see a reduction in pore size, wrinkles and fine lines.

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PARTNERSHIP

Brave Awareness

I N A B U S Y S C H E D U L E , I T ’ S E A S Y N O T T O P R I O R I T I S E O U R H E A LT H , B U T I T ’ S V I TA L W E D O N ’ T N E G L E C T R E G U L A R C H E C K- U P S , P A R T I C U L A R LY W H E N I T C O M E S T O B R E A S T C A N C E R As October marks Breast Cancer Awareness Month, we’re encouraging you to face your fears head-on and not to let fear neglect your health. Emirates Woman spoke to Dr Rita Daaboul, a Consultant General Surgeon at Medcare Women and Children Hospital (MWCH), about how important it is to get your breasts checked and how early detection is key for curing breast cancer.

While breast cancer generally occurs in older-aged women, in about half the number of breast cancer cases occur in those under 50 years of age, and as such, tends to be more aggressive. This is why it is even more important to spread the message of breast awareness and early detection, as well as remind all women to check their breasts.

It may seem daunting to get your breasts checked, but with new technology, mammograms are now less uncomfortable. It’s a seamless process and with the all-female staff at MWCH’s breast care clinic, which includes the radiologists, they ensure everyone who is there feels comfortable during their check-ups. It vital really to check your breasts regularly, 15 minutes of your time could be responsible for adding another 15 years to your life.

DR DAABOUL’S KEY ADVICE FOR BREAST CANCER AWARENESS The common breast cancer symptoms?

The symptoms of breast cancer depend on where the tumour is in the breast, the size

of the tumour and how quickly it is growing.

Breast changes that may indicate breast cancer include: ∙ a new lump or lumpiness, especially if it’s only in one breast ∙ a change in the size or shape of the breast ∙ a change to the nipple, such as crusting, ulcer, redness or inversion ∙ a nipple discharge that occurs without squeezing ∙ a change in the skin of the breast such as redness or dimpling Are there different types of breast cancer? Yes, there are different types of breast cancer, with some types being far more aggressive than others. The most important part of breast cancer, however, is the stage at which it presents. The earlier it is detected, the more likely it can easily be treated and cured. Breast cancer awareness, and breast cancer screening, can save lives. It is vital to detect it before it has had a chance to enlarge locally, or spread beyond the breast.

What are the misconceptions surrounding breast cancer? The most common misconception is that somehow, performing a needle biopsy on a breast cancer to diagnose it, can actually spread the cancer more readily, or even make it more aggressive.

Although this may be true for other specific types of cancer in some other organs, we can safely perform a needle biopsy on breast cancer, without this having any effect whatsoever on its behaviour.

What are the most common ages that are affected by the disease? Breast cancer, in general, occurs more often in older aged women. As women get older, each decade over 40 increases the risk of breast cancer significantly. However, breast cancers may occur in those under 50 years of age, and as such, tends to be more aggressive. This is why it is even more important to spread the message of breast awareness and early detection, as well as remind all women to check their breasts.

What is the treatment for breast cancer?

The treatment of breast cancer involves more than one specialty in medicine, and is termed “multidisciplinary”. It is most commonly a combination of surgery, chemotherapy, radiotherapy, and/or hormonal/ biological therapies. Of course, this does depend on the stage of the cancer.

What are the side effects of breast cancer treatment? The side effects can range from none, to a whole list of rare and unusual side effects. The surgery will usually leave some scars, but with the earlier stages, this can be extremely minor. Radiotherapy can leave sunburn type changes to the breast skin, at the end of the treatment, but this will settle within a few short weeks. Chemotherapy can have various side effects, but the one most women get concerned about, is the temporary hair loss. However, it is only temporary, and the hair will start to grow back 2-3 weeks after the last chemotherapy session is given. Other common side effects are nausea, although this is controlled by other medications, and of course, noticeable fatigue towards the end of the treatment (only in the last courses).

Any other essential information to add…

Face your fears head on. Don’t let your fear make you neglect your check ups. Early detection saves lives.

A consultation and ultrasound or mammogram at MWCH is priced at Dhs399.

Located on Sheikh Zayed Road, the clinic is open from 9am to 9pm. For more information visit medcare.ae.

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WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

Sharp Solution

Microeedling delivers impressive results with minimal downtime can be controlled and there is less injury to the skin, because the needles penetrate the skin vertically, resulting in less pain, less down time and less damage to the skin,” explains Treston. “With the pen, we can also treat those hard-to-reach areas, such as the area around the eyes, upper lip and nose.” But the evolution doesn’t stop there. The latest innovation is Secret RF, which combines microneedling with fractional radiofrequency. “This device can deliver heat to deeper layers of the skin with controlled RF energy and that makes it superior over standard microneedling, which can only treat the surface of the skin and there is virtually no down time,” adds Treston.

Previously reserved for in-clinic appointments, the all-over body treatment can now even be performed at home, however, you do have to invest in the right tools and be aware that the results might not be as effective as you’d expect from an in-clinic environment. “At home you can only experience superficial microneedling, whereas in the clinic, you can penetrate deeper as the tools are more powerful and can be customised by using needles to penetrate different depths,” says Dr Naji. “Also, the dermatologist is an expert at creating the type of positive inflammation we need to generate the results.” Treston advice to those who do wish to tackle fine lines and mild scarring at home should not use more than a 0.25mm needle to avoid damage to the dermis.

“Clinicians will use not just basic apparatus such as derma pen and rollers, they also have devices that combine microneedling with radiofrequency, which uses heat to stimulate more collagen,” she adds.

“This is popular for scarring as it affects the SMAS layer. In a clinic environment, you can also include subcision to improve fibrotic scarring. As this requires deeper penetration, it should only be done by a medically trained expert so there will not be damage to the skin.” It’s also important to note that you are breaking the surface of the skin, so any dermaroller that you choose to use, must be sanitised.

Minimal downtime, maximum results.

From top: Hyaluronic Acid 2% +B5 Hydration Support Formula Dhs28 The Ordinary; Skin Roller Dhs375 Swiss Clinic; Microneedling Kit Dhs1,650 Teresa Tarmey available at NET-A-PORTER; Hyaluronic Serum Dhs400 Dr Barbara Sturm

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Brave enough to try microneedling? Turbo-boosting collagen production, improving scars and stretch marks and evening out skin are all results of the treatments that are seeing a serious revival. “You can experience a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, as well as enlarged pores. It can also be used as part of a protocol to treat scars,” says Dr Shadan Naji, Dermatologist at Dr Kayle Aesthetic Clinic in Dubai.

So what is microneedling? “In essence, we create microchannels in the skin and these activate the remodelling and rejuvenation of the skin, in order to increase collagen supplies,” Dr Naji explains. The process evokes the same repair process as it would for a wound; skin starts to treat those micro injuries resulting in an improved texture. The short-term benefits will see your skin looking plump and youthful. According to studies, monthly microneedling sessions can result in up to a 400 per cent increase in collagen and elastin production over six months.

The procedure itself usually begins with cleansing the skin, followed by a topical numbing cream.

Once it takes effect, your doctor will apply a serum that encourages healing before using the microneedling pen over the face to create small openings for the serum to soak into. After this, another serum is applied followed by a facemask to seal everything in.

The approach varies from clinic to clinic, but overall microneedling has come a long way since it was first introduced in 1995: “The dermaroller was the first official device in the evolution of microneedling, but because the needles penetrate the skin at an angle, and the needle depth and speed cannot be customized, there is a greater chance of skin damage, pain and recovery time,” says Rebecca Treston, Skincare expert at Dubai London Clinic. “Different areas of the face require different penetration depths to achieve the best results, and unfortunately, this was not an option with the first dermarollers.” Technology evolved with the discovery of the microneedling pen, which is a motorized device with multiple needles and varying options of speed and depth of needle penetration. “This means the injury to the skin

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BEAT BREAST CANCER WITH MEDICLINIC This October, Mediclinic is offering a 50% discount on screening mammograms plus a complimentary consultation with a doctor.

The offer is available at participating units in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Al Ain. Please visit www.mediclinic.ae for more information, locations and details of how to book your appointment.

* Advance appointments required * Limited availability. Book early to avoid disappointment * Screening mammograms available for women over 40 with no prior breast symptoms who have not had a mammogram in the previous 12 months * Screening mammograms not applicable for patients with applicable insurance coverage

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY www.mediclinic.ae

The Beauty Shelf

Entrepreneur Ghizlan Guenez reveals her go-to beauty products that deliver results C O M P I L E D B Y: D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

Beechwood Shower Exfoliating Brush Dhs100 Kent Brushes

Lotion P50 1970 Balancing Exfoliator Dhs570 Biologique Recherche

I think dry brushing is very underrated and it’s an easy practice that you do right before your shower. It’s amazing for circulation, lymphatic drainage for cellulite and the smoothness of your skin. I use it daily for no more than five minutes.

If you know skincare then you know this product. It’s not gentle on the skin and that’s why I usually use it in winter for three months and then I spot. It’s important to protect your skin from the sun when you use it but it resurfaces your skin and regenerates it.

Skincare Oil Dhs80 Bio-Oil

You can use this multi-purpose product on wet skin when you’re in the shower or on your cuticles, your face, and I sometimes use it on my hair.

Protective Hair Perfume in Fruity Floral Dhs190 Sachajuan

It’s a Swedish brand and it smells delicious. I usually put it in the roots, back of my neck and I find the fragrance to be long lasting.

It’s a beautiful way to keep your hair fresh, especially if you don’t wash it every day.

Advanced LED Light Therapy Face Mask Dhs1,820 The Light Salon Boost

glow. I alternate between this one and other facial scrubs.

Whether you have curly hair like me and want to tame it, or you have straight hair and you want to curl it and add some texture you can definitely use it too.

Apply it to wet or dry hair and it keeps your curls in place.

Cellular Mineral Face Exfoliator Dhs550 La Prairie

I’m a big believer in peels and exfoliation for the skin and it is one way to prep your skin. It feels soft on the skin but it’s extremely effective. You only need a tiny bit of it and it lasts a long time.

Instant Transformation Lemon Facial Peel Dhs170 Ole Henriksen at Sephora

It has glycolic and lactic acids in it and gives such a beautiful

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Tibetan Chrysanthemum Correcting Eye Treatment Pads Dhs205 Wei Beauty

This is one of my favourite discoveries. I don’t usually wear eye pads because I’ve rarely seen one that works but this one is so effective. It is made out of the plant you can only harvest high up in the Tibetan mountains. It tackles puffiness and dark circles and ideal as a pre-party boost.

Precisely My Brow Pencil Dhs130 Benefit

I love makeup and have always experimented with and if I were to rave about a recent addition to my edit of products it would be this brow pencil. It allows you to fill the gaps in a way that looks natural and I love how it is long lasting and easy to apply.

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Wave Spray Dhs103 OUAI

It is one of the best investments I’ve made. You can use it a few times a week and wear it over a sheet mask or a serum or night creams to allow the ingredients to absorb better. This particular light is so soft and easy to pack so you can travel with it. I just love that I don’t have to go to a salon to get LED light treatment.

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C O M P I L E D B Y: D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

AM TO PM BEAUTY The first Emirati female racing driver, Amna Al Qubaisi’s fast lane persona extends to her quick and effective beauty routine

What does your morning skincare routine look like? Every morning I wash my face with a face wash then apply a mask for 10 minutes. Brush my teeth then apply a bit of makeup depending if I’m going to university. I always put on sunscreen when I’m on the track.

And how about your pre-bedtime routine? I always cleanse my face and apply serums. Being a driver, the helmet often results in skin blemishes or acne so I always have to clean the inside padding of my helmets to help avoid that.

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Talk us through your top skincare products. For the face, I use Clarins Gentle foaming cleanser, Clinique Clarifying Lotion Exfoliator, and The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution.

111Skin 3 Phase Anti Blemish Booster is my go-to serum and I always apply Dior Capture Youth Age-delay advanced eye treatment under my eyes.

Do you wear much makeup on a daily basis? Not very often. For university, I apply concealer and blush but if I’m on track I tend to sweat through-

out the day so I just use sunscreen.

What can we always find in your makeup bag? Huda Beauty concealer is my favourite as well as the BADgal BANG! volumising mascara from Benefit Cosmetics. I also love NUDESTIX Nudies All Over Face Color Matte for the cheeks and Too Faced Lip Injection gloss.

How does your beauty routine shift when you’re competing? I double up on my skincare products and after every session I’d cleanse my face and then add on extra sunscreen. I do try to avoid

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Clockwise from left: Nudies All Over Face Color Matte Dhs145 NUDESTIX; Lip Injection Extreme Lip Gloss Dhs130 Too Faced; Capture Youth Age-delay advanced eye treatment Dhs252 Dior; Gentle Foaming Cleanser Dhs100 Clarins; Anthelios Ultra-Light Invisible Fluid SPF50+ Sun Cream 50ml Dhs90 La Roche-Posay; AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution Dhs19 The Ordinary

makeup unless I have a photoshoot.

Do you do any skin and/or hair prep before the race? Before a race, I brush my hair and put it into a braid but now I’ve recently cut my hair so I can wear it in a low ponytail instead. I then add mascara and sunscreen.

What is your ultimate beauty indulgence? Spending a whole day at the salon doing everything like facials, hair treatments and nails.

If you could only have one beauty product, what would it be? This is so hard

but I would stick with the Huda Beauty Overachiever Concealer.

Let’s talk fragrances, do you have a favourite for daytime and night time?

I use one for all occasions it’s the Penhaligon’s Halfeti Eau de parfum. It’s my absolute favourite.

What does your hair routine look like? I don’t do much with my hair I just try to avoid using hair straighteners as much as possible and keep it natural.

Any products that you adore using? I love the way The Ordinary Exfoliator

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Peel Mask refines my complexion.

Racing is deemed as a masculine environment, how do you stay tough yet stay true to your femininity through beauty? On track, I stay professional.

I wear the team uniform and avoid too much makeup.

What was the last beauty product you bought? The Huda Beauty 3D Highlighter Palette.

Is there a particular product that gives you extra boost of confidence? Definitely BADgal BANG! volumising mascara.

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L I F E S T Y L E F

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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS

The Superwoman

Holli Rogers is brave. Having championed new brands for over a decade, in her dual role as CEO at Browns Fashion & CBO at Farfetch, she is integral to celebrating creativity, diversity and providing an ecosystem that encourages both 108 emirateswoman.com

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Tell us about your dual role and how you manage to balance the two? I joined Browns five years ago and am incredibly proud of the work achieved to date, we are this year celebrating the brands 50th anniversary which is such a momentous milestone. This hand-in-hand with the dual role within FARFETCH has really given us the opportunity across the group to talk to fashion in a meaningful way, one that resonates with the larger customer base whilst continuing to build on the Farfetch brand.

You’ve built a superb team. What do you look for when hiring? Firstly, thank you! We think they’re an amazing bunch of people too!

Obviously, we want to work with people with incredible experience and who love fashion and technology, but it’s much more than that for us. Our culture is something we’re really proud of and we have a simply incredible team. We’ve been able to build this team because we’re values-focused. Our values are important to us and they have been critical in building the incredible culture we have over the years. Our values are: ∙ Be Human ∙ Think Global ∙ Todos Juntos (which means ‘Everyone Together’ in Portuguese) ∙ Be Revolutionary ∙ Be Brilliant ∙ Amaze Customers We love it when people bring their whole selves to work, so we look for people who see themselves in these values and who would feel at home in a culture like Farfetch’s. Obviously, we are also looking for people who are really creative, who adore fashion and who also love the transformative nature of technology as well. But, we hire from many different career backgrounds as we think people’s experience, both in work and in life can be applied in new roles. We talk about people being ‘Good for Farfetch’, ‘Good for Role’ and ‘Good for Growth’ – meaning that they can apply their past experiences to new challenges.

You have to wear many ‘hats’ in your current roles – do you find you’re naturally adept at any and which do you enjoy the most? One of the things I love most about my work here is the variety in my day to day – it’s hard to choose a favourite part! I have to be both creative but also really strategic and focused and I really enjoy that mix. I’ve loved fashion all of my life, but I’ve also loved taking that creative side and helping grow successful businesses.

When you’ve moved in your career or taken on new challenges, did you go with your gut?

Yes, I’m a big believer in following your gut and not being afraid to make brave choices.

I also think it is important to not always

adhere to the constructs of what a job role should look like, how do we define a CEO? For example, in 2003 I took a year-long sabbatical as after years of travel and long hours – it was the right thing for me to do for myself. In truth, only you know what you need so it is important to follow your own path.

Which brands or products are your real hero buys this season and which are you most proud of discovering? This season I’m investing in accessories from Bottega Venetta – Daniel Lee can do no wrong, homewares from the very talented Anissa Kermiche and anything from Richard Quinn as we are all craving dressing up. I also am a huge fan of the addias x Lotta Volkova collection, it is undoubtedly the collaboration of the season, and Lotta is the talented stylist behind the FARFETCH campaign.

You’ve created such a supportive ecosystem for brands – how have you achieved this? Both FARFETCH and Browns were community-focused businesses from day one. Jose Neves, FARFETCH’s founder and CEO, was a shoe designer and boutique owner himself before he started the company, so he had a deep understanding of the fashion industry and what would be helpful for the community – and that’s why he built FARFETCH as a platform for the industry.

Browns, similarly, was also always about supporting and championing the community of up and coming designers – it was never just about retailing alone, but also about fostering the fashion community as a whole.

We’ve kept this philosophy going now over many years. Browns is coming up to its 50-year anniversary and FARFETCH is almost 13 years old. In both businesses, we are still very committed to helping the fashion industry thrive.

We love Farfetch’s rebrand – what was the thought process behind this and why now?

FARFETCH has been partnering with some of the world’s best designers and stores for over 10 years and is now in its second chapter as a company – we needed an identity that reflects that. This point in our journey is the perfect moment to build on our growth so far, and marks a new era for us.

Do you have any brands you’ve been be faithful to wearing for years? I’m pretty faithful to brands when it comes to footwear – Manolo Blahnik, Amina Muaddi and Aquazurra come to mind. I also love supporting the next generation of talent and am currently wearing Marine Serre, Duran Lantink and Richard Quinn on repeat.

What today in this market is luxury? Luxury is the ability to reflect and as the campaign says to open doors, and our minds. I’m hoping with this current moment of pause coupled

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with the need to be more sustainably minded that within the luxury arena we can collectively find ways to slow down, and in turn champion the value of products and design longer.

Do you see any buying patterns in terms of global sales? This season, we have definitely seen a shift towards more classical and effortless styles as well as comfort and athletic wear. We are also seeing an uplift in investment pieces including fine jewellery and bags. I do think that we will naturally see a shift in shopping habits which I believe we were already seeing prior to the pandemic.

This is particularly prevalent within the younger generation of customers who are much more consciously minded and who are also pivoting spending to more lifestyle focused products, whether that be wellbeing or homewares along with experiences. They

“Trust your instinct and don’t get caught up in the hype. You can have very clear goals, flexibility in how you get there is key.” are also seeking brands with values and authentic stories to tell and I think this will become more important than ever.

What effect has social media played on the fashion industry’s growth? Social media has played a huge role in driving trends globally and connecting people from around the world. It is an incredible resource to scout new talent, discover brands and platform new voices and I know the buyers at Browns use it as a constant reference. It also has been an incredible tool in driving social awareness and consciousness within the fashion community with many brands and designers using it as a way to educate, connect and inspire.

What advice would you give to your younger self starting out? Trust your instinct and don’t get caught up in the hype. You can have very clear goals, flexibility in how you get there is key.

This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what to you is bravery? Making bold choices and challenging the status quo. For fashion, I think we have to approach the future only looking forward to what lies ahead, avoiding nostalgia.

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Kate Blythe-Pearson has a seriously impressive CV. Having led the content teams at both NET-A-PORTER and MATCHESFASHION she’s now moving across the globe to brave a new challenge at Mecca Cosmetica in Melbourne as Chief Marketing Officer.

WORDS: AMY SESSIONS

What do your first 30 mins of the day look like, your morning routine? The alarm goes off at 6.15am (unless our two year old wakes us up earlier!) and then it’s go, go, go. As we are currently in London, yet relocating to Melbourne at the end of the year, most of my calls with the Mecca team in Australia are taken from 7am BST. So that first 30 minutes of the day is crucial as I have to get myself showered, dressed, makeup on, then wake up the children (we have four) and encourage them to get themselves ready for school. My husband always makes me a cup of tea (how British!) in those 30 minutes, which definitely helps to motivate me.

In terms of beauty, do you subscribe to the theory you are what you eat? We are great believers in buying produce from specialists, rather than everything from a supermarket, so the dishes we make have been bought from the butchers, the fishmonger, and the organic deli. Where possible, we stay away from too much gluten and dairy, however we don’t cut anything entirely out. You are what you eat and yet there are so many other factors to consider – how much sleep you’ve had, your water intake. I also see a Functional Doctor who believes in keeping the body well via the correct foods and nutritional supplements.

Tell us about your new role as Chief Marketing Officer at Mecca and how it came about?

My new role as CMO at Mecca will utilise all of the skills that I have honed in the last 20 years in fashion e-commerce and yet I will learn so much too having never solely focused on beauty. I’m a beauty obsessive so the chance to be part of one of the world’s beauty leaders was an opportunity I couldn’t turn down.

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How did you make the decision to try the new challenge of moving across the globe and how challenging was that with a family?

The opportunity was presented to me just as the UK was coming out of lockdown. The Covid pandemic has changed the lives of so many people and it has also given people the opportunity to stop, think and consider, which is what happened to us. We felt that this would be an amazing life experience for us and the children and once we were all in agreement (the children included) then we could start getting excited about life in Melbourne. It is a huge upheaval, however I love nothing more than a challenge!

You’ll be building a superb team. What do you look for when hiring? One of my passions is to hire, mentor and develop talented people.

When hiring, I look for a combination of entrepreneurial spirit, exceptional talent and for those who thrive being part of a strong team.

Why did you feel it was the right time to move from fashion into beauty? Fashion and beauty really go hand in hand so it felt like a natural next step for me. I am still working within fashion tech, too, as I’m also Advisor at The Yes. Which brands or beauty products are your real hero buys? On the fashion front, I love Daniel Lee’s Bottega Veneta – The Pouch bags are my weaknesses. I also love jumpsuits and bought a Bottega Veneta tuxedo jumpsuit that I will wear forever. Toteme and Khaite are also brands that I’m currently buying a lot from. On the beauty front, my new favourite is Gypsy Water by Byredo. The perfume, the body cream, the shower gel... I absolutely love it.

Do you have a product you’ve used for years and will always be faithful to? I use Chanel

Vitalumiere liquid foundation and have done for the last 15 years.

What to you in the beauty market is luxury?

My eye is always drawn to beautiful packaging on beauty products. I love the aesthetics of beautiful branding and design. I also love discovering something new too, especially when it comes to scent; there is nothing more luxurious than burning a candle from Le Labo or dousing yourself in a new Byredo perfume.

Do you see any buying patterns in terms of global sales when it comes to beauty? Beauty fans are inspired by their communities, in the same way that fashion fans are. If someone in their community loves a new product that they have tried, they will share that information with their friends or fellow beauty obsessives and so start a trend. It is less about a celebrity advert these days and now it’s about what product is hot and why. Beauty fans are the aficionados and the best advertisers.

How do you think beauty brands should approach client engagement and retention?

My son said to me recently, “I will only buy Apple products because they make me feel cool” and that got me thinking... branding and the way that a brand can make you feel is so important to retention. A one trick pony brand will never have the growth it needs.

Every brand needs to create an emotional connection with their customers and making them feel part of something unique is so important to that. Then the customers will come back time and and time again, just to see what is new from their favourite brands.

Which Instagram accounts do you follow for inspiration? I am a huge interiors fan and find that interiors inspire me on so many levels. I love @themodernhouse, @adesignersmind, @thespacesmag, @decorno5.

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The Marketing

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Mastermind We love your makeup; it’s super natural yet flawless. Could you share with us your gotos? I start with Chantacaille face serum and day cream after cleansing, then I use Chanel Vitalumiere 30 foundation and 40 when I have a tan. I use Nars orgasm powder blush on my cheeks, then Charlotte Tilbury rockstar eye shadow on my eyes, some liquid liner and mascara. I can do my makeup in 5 minutes – it’s easy and low maintenance.

Do you think supplements can help boost hair, skin and nails and if so which to you personally like? Absolutely, I take a whole host of supplements. Vitamin D in high doses, vitamin C, Vitamin b12, bioacidofolus for your gut. My Functional Doctor keeps an eye on my iron and ferritin levels for my hair and I take magnesium.

Do you have any pre-bedtime rituals? Sometimes just after my 2 year old has gone to bed, I will lie in my bed with a Mecca facemask on and just sit quietly. It won’t be long before my two daughters join me (and of course they like to have a facemask too) and we will watch a movie together. My bed is my most luxurious and peaceful haven!

What effect has social media played in the beauty industry and its growth? There are a lot of apps now that change your appearance, which I think is incredibly damaging. I have never altered a picture of myself and would hate my daughters to do that.

Real, true beauty is where it’s at and I see a backlash coming for overdone beauty that creates false impressions. Beauty is empowering, creative and exciting – I love the new-

ness, the buzz you get from a beauty product and how it makes you feel. Social media has an important part to play in empowering everyone, wherever they are.

What advice would you give to your younger self starting out? The advice I give to everyone is always be kind to people, engage with everyone from the intern up to the CEO and build long lasting relationships built on trust and honesty.

If you were not Chief Marketing Officer at Mecca, which other role would you choose career-wise? An interior designer!

This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what to you is bravery? Being brave is doing what is right for you, not what other people think is right for you. Everyone always says, “how do you have 4 children and work full time?” and I say because I love it. I adore being a mamma and I adore having a career – I will bravely keep challenging myself to be as good as I can be at both.

When have you been brave in business and in life? Making the family decision to move our lovely life in London to Melbourne – as I said, I love a challenge!!

“Being brave is doing what is right for you.”

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True Grit

harnessed as a business. Our launch garnered such incredible response from diverse women far and wide from America, Saudi Arabia, Australia and everywhere in between. We knew there was a need but we didn’t anticipate how much women wanted a platform like The Modist. Ironically, another highlight moment was when we announced our closure. The outpouring of love and incredible sentiments shared on social media platforms about The Modist was beyond anything we’d expected.

How do you feel The Modist changed the fashion landscape?

I believe that as a brand we succeeded in putting modesty with a fresh perspective on the fashion map. One of our values was to break stereotypes and celebrate our woman and we were able to show that through bringing a cool and fashionforward spirit to a concept that had long been associated with religion or an old-fashion sense of style. We did that whilst always championing the idea of choice and that exercising your choice be it to cover, or not, is the most empowering thing.

At what point did you know you had to close the business? As you can imagine, we had tried to find a solution to continue to operate and save the business.

There was a lot of potential still and a clear opportunity, but the odds were against us and the circumstances were very challenging. In March when COVID-19 escalated we had to do the responsible thing and pull the plug.

How did you stay strong at this time? This was probably one of the hardest things to deal with emotionally. It’s very demanding on a founder because you have to be strong for your team, your colleagues, your community and then deal with your emotions on your own. It was especially difficult because The Modist was not a failure as a business, it was growing and had a glaring opportunity and potential, but at the end of the day, once you have honoured your emotions you must act rationally and understand that this is part and parcel of founding a business. Things may or may not work out and one has to take the good with the bad and continue moving.

What was the most challenging part of the transition? My most difficult moment through the entire process was sharing the news with my team. It was a very heavy moment.

What lessons have you gained through this experience? So many lessons were learned. It’s ironic but I feel far richer as a person after this experience. The learnings, the emotional and mental growth that you go through and the resilience that you build are invaluable. I learned that failure is part of

It takes great courage to launch a business; it takes even more courage to know when to close it. As the global pandemic proceeded to impact businesses around the world, Ghizlan Guenez, the founder of The Modist, made the difficult decision to cease operations.

Guenez was born in Algeria and grew up between Beirut and Dubai. She studied at the London School of Economics before working for 10 years in private equity at The Abraaj Group.

Her love for fashion comes from her mother, but she became frustrated with how long it took to find a modest outfit and knew that many women were having the same problem. She started developing the concept of a luxury platform that caters to a conservative customer and after almost two years of preparation, the website launched in March 2017. Within three years, The Modist has not only been part of the modest fashion movement, it was the main driver. For those who have previously struggled to find pieces from luxury brands could finally shop from over 180 designers and discover innovative ways to layer and style those pieces. Farfetch invested, Guenez made the Business Of Fashion’s BoF500 list – the definitive professional index of the people shaping the fashion industry, was nominated in the Visionaries category and even launched an in-house label Layeur which has been worn and championed by the likes of Queen Rania of Jordan.

No successful entrepreneur starts a business without thinking it could fail, but Guenez does not see the closing of The Modist as a failure. In its short digital life, it has transformed the wardrobes of women around the world and enriched Guenez with newfound courage to take on the next challenge.

What have been your highlights from establishing and growing The Modist? There have been many highlights in the journey but the ones that stand out the most and left an emotional impact have always had to do with the community that we

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Ghizlan Guenez has grit. Not only for launching The Modist, but for having the courage to let go

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WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

the success and that we must manage its stigma and not be fearful of it. I also learned that whilst it takes a lot of courage and strength to be vulnerable, it is incredible how freeing it is to be honest and share your story openly. You move from trying to manage your ego to enjoying the strength that vulnerability gives you.

Would you agree that to be an entrepreneur is to be brave enough to risk failure? Absolutely! I’m a firm believer that you only reach success in life when you’ve gone through numerous failures. The key is to learn and not repeat the same mistakes. We are so obsessed with success that we don’t normally see or talk about what it took to get there. I read a book that left a big impression on me early on in my journey as a founder called “The Hard Thing About Hard Things” by Ben Horowitz, ones of the most successful venture capitalists in the world, where he talks about all his failures before founding one of the best VCs in the world. Nobody gets to the top without experiencing failure.

Has your experience given you the courage to pursue another venture? Without a doubt. I’m a very positive person and very driven and whilst this has been a very big learning experience I’m not disheartened as an entrepreneur. I love building a business, solving a problem, offering an incredible product, adding value and building a community. It’s my passion and what drives me.

What self-care do you invest in during challenging times to ensure you remain strong?

That’s been one of the upsides of quarantine for me personally. I had the time to sit with my thoughts, reflect and also take the time focus on my health, which had been impacted due to the mental and emotional stress. What people don’t know is that closing a business is almost harder than launching it as there is a lot of work involved and it is very draining by what it entails. Having said that, it’s been manageable and I’ve been quite disciplined about prioritizing looking after my physical, mental and emotional wellbeing. It’s one of the learnings that I’ve taken out of running of Huda Beauty, Jen Rubio and Steph Korey the founders of Away. a very demanding business for four years.

How do you spend your personal time? I love working out and being active, reading, travelling and I’ve recently started learning to play the Who makes you strong? My family and very close piano. I’m very passionate about growth in general and continuously loved ones are pillars of strength for me and I beevolving as a person at all levels so anything that fuels that is ideal. lieve that’s so important when you’re going through adversity in life in general. I also believe so strongly What advise would you give to other entrepreneurs in a similar situain have one or more mentors that you trust and tion? I would encourage them to try everything possible to keep their who have the right experience and knowledge to businesses alive, downsizing, pivoting, trying out other models and support you. I have however been fortunate overall ways to generate revenue, staying closely in touch with their custo have received an incredible amount of love and tomers and so on, but if you clearly see that continuing to run the support from the large community that The Mobusiness may only create more complex issues and that you have reached a dead-end then pull the plug. You may be able to resurrect dist built. It was so clear that all the passion and it down the line or start afresh. The truth is that when you start a effort that we had put into it since we launched business you have to accept that there is a chance to succeed and a created a true authentic emotional bond between chance to fail, but ultimately adopt a positive mind-set and do all the brand and the community. you can to make it a success.

What are your most treasured memories from Which motivational books or podcasts do you recommend? I post building The Modist? There are so many that I treasure still today. Despite being a very young some of those on my Instagram account as and when I come across business we’d experienced many successes. We them. I like a few podcasts like “How I Built This” and “The School were chosen twice by Fast Company as one of Of Greatness”. I also like books such as “Grit” and “Shoe Dog” as the most innovative companies in the world, well as the one I shared earlier “The Hard Thing About Hard Things”.

I was selected as one of the BOF500, we had What are your top three pieces of advice for running a successful busiincredible women wear our own brand Layeur ness? One, be very clear on the opportunity and having the right prodsuch as Queen Rania on very special occasions. uct for the customer to meet the demand. Two, have the right team to The highlights, however, have always been mesdeliver your vision and give them autonomy and accountability. And three, create a culture of learning and winning where the team feels sages from women in our community expressing comfortable owning their mistakes and sharing their learnings. how much of an impact The Modist had on them and how they finally feel like they’re represented What is key to being a good leader? I’m not sure if there is one that I in the right light and an authentic way. can single out but I believe always being in control of your emotions and being rational. A dose of emotion as a leader is very good and Which other businesswomen, designers and important, but when times are tough staying in control, composed brands do you turn to for inspiration? Sara Blakeand keeping a positive mind-set is crucial. ly is one whose journey truly inspires me. I’m also inspired by young entrepreneurs like KaThis is The Bravery Issue. What is bravery to you? Owning both your suctrina Lake of Stitch Fix, Huda and Mona Kattan cesses and failures and being strong enough to vulnerably share both.

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The Brave

Having the courage to be brave is life-changing.

We spoke to some of the most incredible women we know to ask what bravery means to them Salma Al Baloushi

Salma AlRashid

THE FIRST EMIRATI WOMAN RISING TO FIRST OFFICER’S RANK AT ETIHAD AIRWAYS @pilotsalma

THE FIRST FEMALE VOTER IN SAUDI ARABIA AND CHIEF ADVOCACY OFFICER AT AL-NAHDA ASSOCIATION – A NON-PROFIT ORGANISATION FOUNDED IN 1962 THAT WORKS TO EMPOWER SAUDI WOMEN Twitter: @Salma_alrashid

When have you had to be brave during your life? When I made the decision to join aviation 14 years ago, when a woman having a standard driving license was already a big thing.

This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what is bravery to you? To be able to let go. It’s one of the hardest things to do but you have to do it in order to move on in life.

If you could champion someone for being brave who would it be and why? My champion is my mother. Being divorced at the age of 18 but still deciding to raise us without any support is incredible.

When have you had to be brave during your life? As a single mother of three, my bravery is tested on a daily basis. In my career, it is the moments when I have been given the task of representing women of my country and serving women around the world as the Women 20 Sherpa as it comes with great responsibility and honour.

This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what is bravery to you? I often reflect on the concept of courage and bravery, and I feel I have a long way to go to con-

Raha Moharrak THE YOUNGEST ARAB AND FIRST SAUDI WOMAN TO CONQUER MOUNT EVEREST @rahamoharrak

sider myself truly brave. I do have courage however, which is an important step. In my lifetime, I have learned that bravery is to be comfortable with being uncomfortable, to know when it is the right moment to push, and when it is wiser to pull back. To become brave, one must be willing to be vulnerable, as Berne Brown says: “Vulnerability sounds like truth and feels like courage.

Truth and courage aren’t always comfortable, but they’re never weakness.” My favourite quote that summarises what bravery is: “It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly… who at best knows, in the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly.” – Theodore Roosevelt.

If you could champion someone for being brave who would it be and why? It cannot be one person, it is the women around the world who make up 70 per cent of the healthcare workers, the 740 million women in informal work and those who take on the burden of care, who do it with the utmost grace and dedication. Those who refuse to be defined by their life’s circumstances and dare to challenge the status quo.

When have you had to be brave during your life? I think any free-spirited person who dares to be different is constantly in a state of bravery, it takes a lot of courage to live your life true to who you are in pursuit of your dreams.

It takes a certain type of perpetual bravery to honestly live by your own rules.

Misha Nonoo This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what is bravery to A BAHRAINI-BRITISH FASHION DESIGNER AND FOUNDER OF HER you? To be unapologetically who you are, to be EPONYMOUS BRAND BASED IN NEW YORK CITY relentless in pursuit of your dreams, to help oth@mishanonoo ers regardless of self-interest and to love with a vulnerability no matter how difficult it is to peel When have you had to be brave during your life? There have been many moments off your armour. but speaking professionally, switching from wholesale to DTC and letting go of that If you could champion someone for being brave business in order to step into the new model was a bold step that took courage. who would it be and why? I would champion evThis is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what is bravery to you? Standing up for what you beery single person who is too afraid to live the life lieve in even if no one else agrees with you. they always dreamed of and those who fear what If you could champion someone for being brave who would it be and why? I think narrow minded people would say if they did, or as all women are brave – there is so much that we fight for and navigate on a daily I always say, ‘Live curiously enough to discover; basis. We are judged so much more harshly for often wanting similar things to men get lost enough to be found and brave enough to for example, I think it takes bravery to stand up to those biases and challenge them. take the first step.’

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Amna Al Haddad THE UAE’S FIRST FEMALE PROFESSIONAL WEIGHTLIFTER, AUTHOR AND INTERNATIONAL SPORTS FIGURE @amna.s.alhaddad When have you had to be brave during your life? I was nine-years-old – my youngest sister was drowning in a pool, and I immediately jumped in. The lifeguard quickly told me what I should do in the water to bring her out so she could breathe. It all happened quickly, but I reacted fast to a critical situation – despite being young and unaware of what to do, but going ahead and doing it.

This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what is bravery to you? Bravery is doing or speaking up about something that is uncomfortable that leaves a positive impact on you, others and society at large – whatever that looks like.

If you could champion someone for being brave who would it be and why? I believe everyone is brave in their own way, fighting their own battles or taking brave actions every day – big or small. It’s unfair to champion one person over another. Everyone in their life has had to be brave in one way or another.

Halah Alhamrani

Yasmin Baker

THE FIRST FEMALE KICKBOXING AND BOXING TRAINER IN SAUDI ARABIA AND FOUNDER OF SAUDI ARABIA’S FIRST FEMALE BOXING GYM FLAGBOXING @flagboxing

AN EMIRATI AERIALIST AND AERIAL NIKE BRAND AMBASSADOR WHO AIMS TO BREAK DOWN THE GENDER STEREOTYPES IN SPORT @yasminsta_91

When have you had to be brave during your life? So many times in my life. In my professional career, opening the first female gym in Saudi Arabia at a time where being part of the sport wasn’t even legal.

Training women in the sport and being on social media during a time that the country was changing, being a face of female empowerment. It was a scary time for me, but I knew I was doing the right thing and showing women that it can be attainable.

I have a fear of heights, but I recently started climbing to overcome my fear. If I don’t overcome my fears, I won’t feel proud of overcoming them.

This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what is bravery to you? Bravery is putting yourself in situations where you’re in extreme fear and you try to overcome them by facing fear instead of shying away from it.

If you could champion someone for being brave who would it be and why? I wouldn’t champion one person. I would talk about the women that come to the gym. A lot of them were raised in an environment where physical education wasn’t available, and they’re still brave enough to walk into a boxing class. It’s something that’s really brave. I took it for granted before, but now I respect their bravery and wanting to change something.

When have you had to be brave during your life? I believe bravery can manifest in different ways for different people, but there’s a special type of bravery that emerges when you are required to step up for other people. I recall a time when a loved one had a physical injury that required immediate medical attention.

The injury was quite graphic, and I remember feeling absolutely stunned, but was able to pull it together to get this person to where they

Dr Nadia Bastaki VICE PRESIDENT OF MEDICAL SERVICES ETIHAD AIRWAYS AND THE FIRST FEMALE UAE NATIONAL QUALIFIED AS AN AVIATION MEDICINE SPECIALIST When have you had to be brave during your life? Well, I think every day, with every decision I take and with every dream I accomplish, I have to be brave. My bravest moments were when I decided to become the first doctor in my family, study abroad and make my dream a reality. After deciding to become a doctor, I decided to become the first female aviation specialist in the region, another brave decision.

This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what is bravery to you? Bravery, to me, is to believe in your dreams. Bravery for me is to take that risk. Bravery for me is to be able to celebrate your achievements but also accept losing, with hope to always try again.

Bravery for me is to never give up on your dreams.

If you could champion someone for being brave who would it be and why? I think every woman has a bravery story to tell whether she is a housewife, entrepreneur or pursuing her career – we learn from each and every one of them. Every woman today has a powerful story to tell and we should be encouraged to hear and learn from each other experiences.

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needed to be in order to be ok. For me, the fight or flight response had never been so real.

This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – what is bravery to you? Displays of bravery vary in so many ways and on so many levels. It can be action during crises or emergencies, or adrenaline-based personal challenges like skydiving, embarking on a new career path, starting a family, or even public speaking. Bravery is about being vulnerable, whatever that means to you. Its less about “having it all together” than it is admitting that actually, you don’t always “have it all together” but you will take the step regardless. In order to justify being brave, we should reflect on the outcomes and ask ourselves how our actions will benefit us or benefit others.

Own the difference our difference makes.

Life is in constant flux and obstacles come and are overcome. Being brave will therefore always be a necessity, but when we persevere despite we pave the way for others to be brave.

If you could champion someone for being brave who would it be and why? There are so many! There are so many Emirati and Arab women who champion bravery and dispel stereotypes about capability and about the region in general. It is so empowering for the current times and for this part of the world.

Arab women have worked hard to break the ice in politics, academia, business, science, sports, arts and to normalize the idea men and women can achieve if we are resilient. Mariam Al Mansouri is a classic example of this through her role as an Emirati women fighter pilot. Being a fighter pilot is scary and physically risky for anyone. She had the additional social challenge of entering a space dominated by men, gaining that acceptance as a capable and highly-skilled equal, and demonstrating leadership, strength and resilience. In doing so and in gaining exposure for it, she was a trailblazer for many others after her.

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WO R D S: D I YA N A H A K M I

The High Flyer Captain Salma Al Baloushi is the first Emirati female to rise to First Officer’s rank at Etihad Airways. She speaks to us about what it takes to become a woman of firsts

What does your morning routine look like? The first 30 minutes of the day are more productive. I usually wake up, wake the kids and then have a quick shower followed by breakfast.

What sparked your passion for aviation? I had never thought of aviation, but a long time ago, in my primary school, I saw a picture of the first Emirati female pilot, Captain Aysha AlHameli, and I said to myself, “One day I’ll be someone, something, in this country.”

During my studies in nursing school, I had a life-changing experience. My grandmother was admitted to the same hospital I was training in, and once she asked me to help ease her back pain, so I hugged her and asked, “Are you feeling okay?” She said,

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mates believed the opposite. It’s exhausting, but with the right support of your family, your company and a good understanding of the work environment, it’s possible.

I also spoke to Captain Aysha AlHameli, after finishing my three months in aviation school. She has been my number one supporter whom I learned everything from, including managing work, life and aviation.

How do you feel when you’re flying? It’s a huge responsibility, especially at critical times such as in bad weather, your adrenaline levels increase and you immediately focus on the passengers’ safety. I’ve learned to lean on my colleagues and ask questions – there are no stupid questions.

It’s necessary to speculate what can happen and to mentally prepare for it. We also get emergency training every six months, which helps overcome stressful situations.

This year has been challenging, how do you approach challenges? I’ve realised I want to do more, so I decided to complete my higher education in Aviation Management, this way I can balance being on and off the ground. I’ve also learned the importance of having savings – they provide stability!

What’s the bravest step you’ve taken? Deciding to return to aviation after delivering my first baby. I tried office work, but I wasn’t happy and eventually, my husband encouraged me to go back. I’m happy as long as I’m behind the wheel of a plane.

“Yes, I feel like I’m flying. I wish I could How did you feel the first time you flew? The see you flying someday, you will have your first time I flew a plane was on my birthday, wings.” Two days later she passed away. and I knew it was something I wanted to do Later on, Etihad Airways announced for the rest of my life. It was just amazing. that it was offering aviation scholarships, It was my first time learning to drive and I felt like it was a sign, so I left my job as anything; I got my driving license after my a nurse and never looked back. flight license. It’s been 13 years, but my passion remains the same.

How would you define bravery? Taking a decision and following it through.

Has flying changed your perception of life on How did you overcome the mental obstacles land? Yes. Experiencing Mother Nature’s power humbles you. For me, it’s not the along the way? We get our mental obstacles same thing as experiencing it on land. Passfrom people around us who try to downgrade ing through clouds is not like looking at and discourage us from going ahead with them, because every time you pass through things they’re not familiar with. People kept one, you experience turbulence. Being in telling me aviation was not for me, or this the sky also helps you clear your mind. field was only meant for men, but my batch

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WO R D S: D I YA N A H A K M I

The Dream

IMAGE: SUPPLIED

Giving up a successful career to follow her passion for supercars, Alex Hirschi, also known as @supercarblondie, tells us about leaving your comfort zone for the dream How did you decide to make the leap out of your comfort zone? I was a co-host on a radio show in Dubai for several years before quitting to set up my own business. I have always loved cars and have aspired to owning a luxury car since I was a little girl. I had the opportunity to drive a Bentley, at the time I pinched myself as I was driving my dream car! After that, I went knocking on doors, asking McLaren and Ferrari if they could possibly loan me one as well, in a professional capacity.

I started uploading videos on social media of my personal experience driving these cars for the first time. It got to the point where my husband and I would spend every weekend hunting down cars in order to film them. We would come home from our full time jobs at around 8pm and start working on editing and arranging cars for the next weekend until midnight.

We spent around 6 months uploading videos and photos almost every day on the side of our full time jobs, and grew my account to around 50,000 followers on Instagram. At that point, we had to make a decision, I loved my radio job, and it was a job that I had worked hard to get. Considering giving this up for an industry that was still so new to everyone including me, was a big risk but I took the leap of faith and put my all in to it. After a year I hired my husband full time. He quit his job in finance after 15 years to join me in building the business. He is my cameraman and my manager. After three years of doing this full time, my following has grown to around 37 million people across Instagram, Facebook, YouTube and TikTok. What’s the bravest step you took to follow your passion? The bravest thing I suppose has been to keep pushing on with the business even though I faced so much negativity from people online. When my videos started going viral and being seen by millions of people, this opened me up to the subjective opinions of all kind of individuals. After a while of trying to deal with this negativity myself, I realised I needed help, and went to see a therapist. I suppose that was one of the smartest, if not bravest decisions I’ve made. It often has

such a stigma to it, when you seek help, but if I hadn’t have done that, I don’t know how I would have got through that initial phase.

Can you describe your career evolution & determination? I graduated university in Brisbane and came to Dubai straight away. I was 22 years old and followed my husband here who had found a graduate job in banking.

Unfortunately a few months after we arrived the financial crisis hit and I found it very difficult to get a job. I took random freelance gigs here and there, wherever I could, just to make some money, but for the first year I couldn’t find anything full time. I then followed my husband to Singapore who got transferred there and that’s when I found my first full time job as a TV presenter on a cable network about real estate.

My husband got transferred back to Dubai 6 months later but I decided to stay in Singapore, living with a local family in order to get some work experience. I wasn’t ready to move again and face finding another job again. I moved back to Dubai 6 months later and again couldn’t find a job in journalism, so I got a job as a receptionist in the DIFC just so I could pay the bills. After two years I quit and I’d finally found an opportunity to be a freelance journalist on the radio. I read the news on Virgin, Dubai 92 and Dubai Eye for several years picking up shifts as often as I could. This involved getting up at 3am every day for a year. I’m not a fan of early mornings so this was a tough year, but I loved the job! Then a few years later I scored my dream job as the co-host of an evening show on Dubai Eye. I did that for 3 years before quitting to set up my own company.

How do you feel while you’re driving these super cars? It just makes me so happy. I could be having the worst day and then sit behind the wheel of a fast car and have a smile on my face within a minute.

Tell us about having your husband as your manager? It’s interesting! It was really difficult at first. We’ve gone through some rough patches because we are both really driven and we found it hard at first switching off ‘work mode’. We would literally be talking

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about work from the moment we woke up to the moment we went to sleep. It was hard for my husband too because he quit his career and had a lot to prove to both himself and me, that he had made the right decision, so he really went for it. Eventually we found ways to draw a line between personal and work, but it’s always a constant battle and something that we work on every day. I’ve been with my husband since I was 17 so our relationship is the most important thing to me, and we do everything to make it work.

How has social media affected the industry?

The best thing is being able to connect to people all over the world. I am hardly ever a tourist anymore. When I used to travel, I just did all the typical touristy things, visiting monuments, going to tourist hotspots and tourist traps. Now, that never happens because whenever I travel to a city anywhere in the world, I will connect with other supercar owners or groups and they are all happy to show me around. This means I get to have a completely authentic experience of each city and each culture because I’m invited into the homes of locals.

This year has been challenging – how do you approach challenges? Honestly, this year has been a blessing in disguise. I went through a period earlier this year where I wasn’t sleeping, I wasn’t feeling myself, and actually had a full burn out. When Coronavirus hit, it gave us an opportunity to rest, stay in one place and rework the business.

It made us realise we couldn’t keep going the way we had been otherwise we’d both be burned out. We also had the opportunity to hire people and expand the team. Now, our team has expanded from 2 to 6 people in the last 6 months. I just hired my sister and my brother in law as well this month. They flew over to join the team from Australia. It’s super important to surround yourself with people you really trust in this business.

This issue is ‘The Bravery Issue’. How would you define bravery? Not knowing the outcome, but taking a calculated risk. Doing something that puts you outside your comfort zone in order to achieve something greater.

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Breaking Boundaries Making history as a Guinness World Record Holder for the most football ‘hotstepping’ in one minute, Emirati footballer Areej Al Hamadi discusses her brave steps towards normalizing women playing football in the region WO R D S: D I YA N A H A K M I

What led you to football? I think sport is a safe place for people to be themselves, dream, and create without judgment. I was shy growing up, and I believe football helped me grow into who I am today, I owe a lot to it. My passion for football grew the more I learned and watched other teams play, in turn it inspired me to continue pursuing it and to train myself to be the best I can be.

What inspired you to break the world record?

I have always loved the concept of the Guinness World Records. I grew up reading their books and watching records broken on television. The inspiration to try and break a record came during the pandemic, as there was a rise in social media challenges circu-

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and safety purposes, you need to create your opportunities and approach to these challenges. Many of us have adapted to working on our fitness at home and improving our skills. Successful and talented Middle Eastern women have been supported in the UAE through various opportunities to develop them and acknowledge their multiple contributions.

What’s next for you? I will continue to play football and I hope to win some competitions with my national team.

I would like to further support women’s participation in sport and educate others on the health and mental benefits of participating in group sports and improving women’s football in the UAE. This is The Bravery Issue – what is bravery to you? Bravery is pursuing your dreams and passion. It is the courage to face all the challenges and pushback on your journey to success because success doesn’t come easy, and you will need to be brave to overcome those challenges. Bravery is taking risks and believing in your aspirations regardless of what everyone else says.

What would be the bravest step you took to follow your passion? When I was growing up, women’s football was unheard of. To even dream of being part of something that didn’t exist at the time and keep purlating around record breaking. I also wanted suing it is brave because it meant taking a risk and some criticism along the way. But to put UAE women’s football on the map.

I think the bravest step I took was pursuing What motivates you to keep training? I think my dream and playing for the National Team. it is essential that you are patient when Even though it was my dream, it meant I you’re training towards any goals in life. You would have to sacrifice a lot of things like my don’t grow when things are easy, you grow time with friends, family, and other hobbies when you face challenges, and the greater and aspirations. It meant I had to adjust the challenges, the greater the rewards will my lifestyle to fit all the training sessions be when you overcome them. I’ve always reand commitments I needed to make for the minded myself of that.

National Team. It also meant that I would This year has been challenging for all. How be receiving some criticism from people, do you overcome challenges? It emphabut when it’s your passion, you make that sized my view on approaching challenges. choice in a heartbeat, and I was lucky to It helps if you have patience and resilience have a supportive and understanding husin times like these. With all sporting events and facilities being closed down for health band to help me achieve my goals.

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Go Big

Globally renowned artist, Sacha Jafri, is painting the world a different colour WORDS: CECILIA D’SOUZA

Eton-educated Jafri is an art-collectors dream. Barack Obama, Bill Gates, George Clooney, Leonardo DiCaprio and Madonna are collectors of his work. Jafri follows in the successful footsteps of his great-great-grandfather, a maharaja of India and his father, the first Muslim ambassador to the Vatican.

Since March, Jafri has been working on ‘The Journey of Humanity’ a now world-renowned painting that will be auctioned in Dubai in December. The painting is expected to raise USD30 million to help tackle the devastating impact of COVID-19 on children and youth globally. Emirates Woman caught up with Jafri to find out what makes an artistic mastermind tick.

How does your morning routine help set your creativity each day? A cup of coffee, a hug from my daughter, my painting clothes on and I am ready to go.

Tell us about the world’s largest painting you are creating? After a conversation with UNICEF earlier in the year, my eyes were opened to the fact that an estimated 385 million children live in extreme poverty around the world and are twice as likely to die in childhood. These numbers have almost doubled in the last four months due to the COVID-19 pandemic. This pandemic has affected every community across the globe and taken the lives of thousands, but it has also changed our mindset, and this means we have a window of opportunity for change. I would like my initiative ‘Humanity Inspired’ to be a catalyst for true societal change bringing us to a better future through the hearts, minds and souls of the children of our world. I hope to do this through shape, form, colour, and narrative – always with the purest of energy and intentions. My painting, ‘The Journey of Humanity’ will support the delivery of improved education, healthcare and connectivity, as well as create vital funds to support the poorest and most desperately in need in various areas and regions of our planet.

Who are some of the most interesting people to have visited this project since

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you began? His Excellency Mohammed Ibrahim Al Shaibani, His Excellency Helal Saeed Al Marri, His Highness Sheikh Nahyan Bin Mubarak Al Nahyan, Huda Kattan, Layla Kardan, Aida Al Busaidy, Virat Kohli, and the kids from Dubai Performing Arts.

Who are your biggest influences? I have been influenced by people like Nelson Mandela, Richard Branson, Prince William and artists like Vincent Van Gogh, Arshile Gorky, Willem De Kooning, JeanMichel Basquiat, Edgar Degas, Gabriel Garcia Márquez and Franz Kafka.

It was brave to start out on your own – was that a clear choice for you from the beginning? Yes What do you think draws people to the pieces you create? I want my work to act as an electric shock, to electrify our senses, and awaken something that is often asleep inside. I feel the most important thing we can do as adults is keep the child alive within us all. Making the mundane and over familiar magical again.

Which is the most memorable piece of art in your personal collection? A painting I created in 2000 which is part of my 18year respective collection and is entitled ‘Kafka’s Waiting Room’. One of my most important and treasured works.

You have many celebrity and ruling family clients. Do you ever create bespoke pieces for them? Yes, but I only take on two commissions a year.

This year has brought with it challenges, how do you approach these and overcome such? Stay focused on the painting I am creating and our target of raising USD30 million to help the poorest children of our world who are most desperately in need of our help.

Do you have any pre-bedtime rituals? At the moment I am painting until around 6am or 7am in the morning so I pretty much pass out as soon as my head hits the pillow.

This is the Bravery issue – what is bravery to you? Disconnecting ourselves from our ego. Reconnecting to the soul of the earth, believing in ourselves beyond the voices of doubt and leaving fear behind whenever possible.

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WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R

Perfect Partners

Audemars Piguet and Ralph & Russo in a brave new collaboration Ralph & Russo and Audemars Piguet both boast a distinguished client list, work with the finest craftsmen and use the best materials so a partnership isn’t surprising.

Both brands drive a strong spirit of independence and dedication to detail, creativity and reinvention. In the campaign the best of Ralph & Russo’s SS21 Prêt-à-Porter pieces and Audemars Piguet’s latest Royal Oak and Royal Oak Concept models come together.

“Beyond our personal affinity for the brand, we felt a strong connection and alignment through our mutual dedication to both uncompromising craftsmanship and the creation of wonderfully unique styles that withstand the test of time,” said the fashion duo. “Given we both share the same core

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values and ethos for our respective brands, we feel this is just the beginning of what we hope will be a longstanding relationship and look forward to officially launching our partnership with Audemars Piguet this fall.

The latest Royal Oak Selfwinding models in 34 mm have been conceived for the smaller wrists. This new line includes four models and we are particularly taken with the 18-carat pink gold model as it’s adorned with a diamond-set bezel and a silver-toned guilloché “Grande Tapisserie” dial.

Another addition to Audemars Piguet’s lineup is the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon. Available in 18-carat pink or white gold, the new Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon combines the case’s shim-

mering Frosted Gold finish with a contemporary dial composed of multiple layers. For the first time, the Royal Oak Concept’s case is adorned with Frosted Gold – an ancient Florentine jewellery technique revisited by jewellery designer Carolina Bucci.

“I was struck by Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo’s warm welcome when we first met; they represent talent at the highest level mixed with simplicity and authenticity,” says François-Henry Bennahmias, Chief Executive Officer of Audemars Piguet. “The fun part was when we actually realised that our watches had already been paired with their exceptional designs many times by clients in real life who didn’t need to wait for this partnership to match our two brands.”

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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS

“Jewellery is a daily part of everyone’s life here in the UAE and there is a huge appreciation, in particular for fine jewellery in the region,” fine jewellery expert Vik Jethwani says. Seeing this first-hand with his own jewellery company Vik Jethwani Fine Jewellery, he took the brave leap of faith in launching a unique, bespoke service catering to VIP clientele in the Middle East. Enter the 818 Vault – a service Jethwani had always envisioned himself launching. “I would witness what a difficult situation it was for them to find a luxury and bespoke service they could trust, and so wanted to provide them with an additional part of our existing company, offering an ideal solution through a familiar supplier,” he tells Emirates Woman.

Highly distinctive and individual, Jethwani talks us through the bespoke service, what it has to offer and how being a thirdgeneration jeweller led him down this path.

The Vault

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Why did you decide to launch 818 Vault? We noticed that there was a massive gap and an extreme shortage in the market for independent and luxury safety deposit lockers here in Dubai. As we have such a diverse and strong list of clients, we noticed that a number of banks where our clients were storing their jewellery were limited with the services that were offered. There was often no VIP area, no comfortable seating and most of all no insurance. Clients would also have to travel to the middle of the city to attain a safety deposit locker and it would take up a lot of their time. I also noticed that it was generally always a chore or headache for them and so I wanted to provide an enjoyable, safe, luxurious and convenient solution to the issue. People in this region spend so much on their jewellery, it should definitely be taken care of and kept in a safe, comfortable and VIP environment. I like to think of 818 Vault not just as a secure storage solution for your jewellery, but rather as a complete package with an exceptional standard of service to accommodate our clients’ varying needs. You can also have your jewellery professionally appraised and repaired through one of the many different services we provide.

What does the name 818 Vault represent? The number 8 is a very special number for me as it’s an angel number, which represents balance, security, power, infinity and success. And that is what our vault provides. When you add up 818 you get 17 and 1+7= 8 – it’s genius!

How did you start out in fine jewellery? I am a third-generation jeweller and my grandfather was the third-largest exporter of pearls in Kobe, Japan. My mother continued his legacy by bringing the pearling business to the UAE and I then continued it with my wife Natasha. Together we brought contemporary fine jewellery to Dubai and created our own brand called Vik Jethwani Fine Jewellery.

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Why is 818 Vault different? Well, to start we offer Dhs1,000,000 of insurance for each and every safety deposit locker through our qualified insurance brokers. We also provide appraisal services where we can offer you a value for each and every piece of jewellery you own but may not have a receipt for. All these documents can be kept so you can maintain your jewellery. Our location at the prestigious Almas Tower, home to some of the biggest diamond companies in the world and recognised as the safest building in the Middle East is also a distinct advantage. Additionally, 818 Vault is designed to be discreet yet accommodating, we offer a VIP setting where you can come and book the vault for just yourself and arrange your jewellery in our comfortable and opulent viewing chamber which includes a jeweller’s table, tasteful mirrors and plush seating. Furthermore, we offer each client a booking service where they can call ahead of time and secure the vault to themselves for 30-minute slots. This is ideal as no one else

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can access the vault during this time and we are completely contactless. The only thing you need to bring is your key which has been in your possession the whole time.

Why did you choose this location for 818 Vault?

I have been planning this for over two years and would not want our flagship vault to be in any other tower. Almas Tower is the definition of strength and security and is recognised as an iconic building within the global jewellery business.

How long did it take to see the vision become a reality? We started in January 2020. Since then we have seen an increase in the number of clients coming to sign up with our safety deposit lockers. We’ve expanded our services to offer private viewings, private bookings and minimal contact in line with health and safety measures. Unfortunately, many banks are still overcrowded and aren’t maintained well. We sanitize the entire vault after every use!

I remember sitting down with Natasha two years ago and mentioned to her that I was thinking about providing a service that would be quick, secure and convenient that would solve the issues a lot of our clients were having with other safe deposit facilities. She asked me about it every day on how the idea was progressing and I guess all the questioning made me get up every morning and get this vault built!

How can we secure a deposit box? A potential new client would need to first visit our vault and fill out one of our registration forms. Once the application is complete, they just need to select a locker, sign our terms and conditions contract and then they have their locker. It’s easy, convenient and quick.

This is ‘The Bravery Issue’ – how do you define bravery? Bravery to me is having the courage to step into the unknown and follow your heart.

When you follow your passion, don’t look back and just go for it is what being brave is all about!

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PARTNERSHIP

Viva España

ALL INFORMATION CORRECT AT THE TIME OF PRINTING

J U S T B E C A U S E T R A V E L I S L A R G E LY O N H O L D , I T D O E S N ’ T M E A N YO U H AV E TO STO P P L A N N I N G YO U R B U C K E T L I ST

COVID-19 turned the travel and tourism industry on its head, imposing lockdowns across the globe. While isolation continues for many countries, that doesn’t have to stop you awakening the inner-traveller in you to plan out your travel bucket list. We can’t think of a better place to be than Spain, whatever the season may be, so add Spain to your travel list – #SpainAwaitsYou. Boasting majestic views of everything from rugged mountains and wild meadows in the North of Spain, also known as Green Spain, to coastal towns, fishing ports and picturesque beaches, Spain has something to suit everyone. Enjoy wandering through villages of timeless beauty perched on hilltops, narrow winding lanes in valleys, vibrant life and magnificent sunsets.

Art aficionados should definitely add in a visit to cultural landmarks. On the must-visit list are the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Alhambra Palace in Granada, the Great Mosque of Cordoba, the Royal Alcázar of Seville, the Museum of Arts and Sciences in Valencia, the famous Prado Museum in Madrid and the Guggenheim in Bilbao.

The landmarks are endless. In fact, the art and culture scene boasts over 1,500 museums and has the third most UNESCO World Heritage assets in the world.

For the foodies, Spain offers the best in terms of home-grown, fresh produce. Whether you are seated at an exclusive table or having a stand-and-go be sure to enjoy the tapas and pintxos in San Sebastián or savour the sumptuous seafood in Galicia. Alternatively, sports fans can catch a football game at Santiago Bernabéu or be awe-inspired by some Messi magic at Camp Nou. There’s also The Balearic Islands, Majorca, Minorca and Ibiza to explore… so many beautiful locations, so little time!

While the country now is not admitting tourists, only some exceptions are made, as soon as it is possible tourism will resume with the utmost safety. Spain has adopted many hygiene measures to give you peace of mind while travelling. Twenty-one guidelines with specifications to prevent any spread of the coronavirus have been meticulously put together. The government has also introduced a series of protective mandatory measures such as the use of face masks in public spaces, maintaining a social distance of at least 1.5 metres, sanitising your hands, automated check-in procedures and much more to ensure you are safe at all times and have an incredible break in Spain, hopefully in the very near future. Spain.info/gcc

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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS

“If I had not been brave enough at that time to start, where would we have been today?” Raphael Duntoye asks. It’s a particularly poignant question for LPM’s Chef Patron as he celebrates the 10-year anniversary of the restaurant’s opening in Dubai. Launching three years after LPM’s flagship London restaurant – previously known as La Petit Maison – in 2010, LPM Dubai has become a source of inspiration globally for the brand. “In the same way as the city and people aim for the best, LPM Dubai has kept pushing boundaries,” Duntoye tells Emirates Woman.

Pushing boundaries they have done, particularly in a year of total uncertainty. It’s what Duntoye has found continues to fare him well on his road to success – don’t be afraid to work hard. “Perseverance and tenacity has always made me move forward in times of difficulty, as has hope and believing in people and myself,” he says.

This is the exact attitude that was taken during the height of lockdown for LPM Dubai – use your perseverance, tenacity and bravery to move forward.

While many industries have been affected drastically by the COVID-19 pandemic, the F&B industry has taken a particularly hard hit. With strict lockdowns in place, no one was dining out in the UAE effectively losing 100 per cent revenue for many restaurants throughout the region. However, as they have done so for a de-

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Having cultivated LPM Restaurant & Bar as a global power player in the F&B industry, Raphael Duntoye knows it takes grit, determination and bravery to stay true to your passion and craft in order to succeed

cade, LPM Dubai adapted, pushed the boundaries and embraced the immediate change. By doing so, every single staff member was kept in full-time employment.

“Put it this way, you have to adapt if you want to make it,” Duntoye says. “If someone would have told me before coronavirus that we would do delivery, I wouldn’t have believed them.” Despite having had many requests for years to launch delivery, it was never in the cards for LPM simply because they were always so busy, but the pandemic totally changed that. “When we were having our back against the wall during the lockdown, we had to adapt,” he explains. “Hard times always bring out the best in you. Everybody worked hard together and look at what the team has been able to achieve – we are not only known as a great restaurant, but also one of the best take away concepts there is.”

This is the exact reason why LPM Dubai continues to be a leader in the F&B space in the UAE – the continued reinvention to engage loyal customers and entice new ones. Duntoye puts it bluntly, “In simple words, if

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The Tenacious

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you don’t want to be a dinosaur and become exctinct, you have to adapt.” LPM’s Chef Patron recently sat down with Emirates Woman to discuss the restaurant’s 10-year milestone in Dubai, expansion plans for the franchise and what it takes to make it in this industry.

Talk us through your career history. In 1995 I began my culinary journey, when I abandoned a career in engineering to follow a life-long passion for food and cooking. I joined Butlers Wharf Chef School in 1995.

Following my graduation, I spent the next five years earning my culinary stripes under the mentorship of Pierre Koffman, one of the UK’s most celebrated chefs. Later I served as Executive Sous Chef at Sketch in Mayfair and as a Senior Sous Chef at the Japanese restaurant, Zuma in Knightsbridge, London. In 2007, I opened the first LPM Restaurant & Bar (at the time it was known as La Petite Maison) in Mayfair, London.

I have since grown the award-winning restaurant, which now has branches in six major metropolitan cities across the world. So I am an accidental chef. But with every disappointment comes a great blessing.

Who is your mentor in the food business? I have to pay homage to Pierre Koffmann, for whom I worked at La Tante Claire. He taught me discipline and how to get the most flavour and texture from each ingredient. Rainer Becker, co-founder of Zuma, for whom I worked and learnt many things, in the kitchen but also how to run a business successfully.

I have also had heroes from within the industry over the years – Nick Jones of Soho House, Paddy McKillen of Maybourne Hotel Group (Claridge’s, The Connaught and The Berkeley). Also, a great hero of mine that has passed, Sir Terence Conran. What he has been able to achieve has been amazing. Quaglino’s was probably one of the first super-restaurants that achieved greatness back in the days. At the Sir Terence Conran’s chef school (Butlers Wharf Chef School), I was able to take my first step in the kitchen and realize my dream of becoming a chef.

In terms of bravery – it takes a lot to succeed in this industry, what do you think makes or breaks success?

You must never be afraid to work hard, and to be a great chef you must have passion for what you do.

Without passion you cannot do this job. Perseverance and tenacity has always made me move forward in times of difficulty, as has hope and believing in people and myself. Also, get your priorities right, to ensure you align your goals and know what is more important. Sometimes in life you need to retreat in order to better fight a battle another day.

What was the reaction to bringing the LPM brand to this region? We were a game-changer. Zuma came in first, and we came in second and I think we changed the game of hospitality as far as restaurants are concerned.

I would gladly say that we helped the industry to evolve for the better. Look at the produce as an example; we had to fight tooth and nail in order to make sure we were getting the produce we needed, as LPM is all about the quality in order to keep the integrity of our brand.

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How have things changed for LPM and the F&B industry in Dubai in the last decade? Things have changed a lot; there are now a lot more restaurants. It is more competitive, and the offering is very vast. Dubai is now a culinary destination. I am happy to see that a lot of concepts have been inspired by LPM, as this has pushed us to always work harder in order to remain a step ahead, as the competition has become better and more diversified for the benefit of Dubai and its people. We have been complimented a lot, with that I feel we have now reached a point where we need to go through an evolution and take LPM to the next level.

What does this 10-year milestone mark for you? Not everybody can say they have been around for 10 years. If anything, it tells us that we have been doing the right thing, but that we also become even better, so I really look forward to the next 10 years.

Tell us about the future plans for LPM. Firstly, we need to keep taking care of our Dubai and Abu Dhabi restaurants, and ensure we keep great consistency, while being relevant by evolving and reinventing ourselves.

There is no point to expand if you do not have a plan for your existing businesses to keep growing.

Before the end of the year, we will have hopefully opened in Riyadh. The restaurant is ready, but we are waiting for the visa and flights to open to get our team to Saudi Arabia. I am actually really looking forward to this opening, as after the highly successful pop-up we had last year for the Al Diriyah Season, I was impressed by the pallet of the Saudi nationals and also by the love and appreciation we received as a brand but also as a team.

The growth opportunity that the Middle East has to offer to LPM is unparalleled to any other region, so there is still a lot to do for us in this part of the world.

How do you view LPM Dubai within its global network?

Dubai has been our second international restaurant after London and has definitely been a milestone in our LPM history. It has been a great source of inspiration for all our other LPM restaurants and has been highly regarded by our peers. In the same way, as the city and people aim for the best, LPM Dubai has kept pushing boundaries. We have achieved a lot as a restaurant, a business and as a team.

This is 'The Bravery Issue' – what does bravery mean to you? Bravery means a lot to me. It means being inspirational to others and paving the way. Taking steps that others would not take. My philosophy is that the greater the risk the greater the reward. I am a believer that if you never do, you will never know. Commitment and faith are also important values when it comes to bravery. As an example, when I wanted to start LPM and wanted it to be a French sharing concept, my mentor Rainer Becker told me to stick to my guns, if you decide this is what you want then stick to it. No matter how much resistance I got from people (and I got a lot, believe me), I stuck to my belief and look at us today. It is a great emotion to feel you have influenced others in a positive way. If I had not been brave enough at that time, what would we have been today?

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