A MOTIVATE PUBLICATION
UAE DHS25 OMAN RO2.70 BAHRAIN BD2.60 KUWAIT KD2.10
SEPTEMBER 2020
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THE POWER ISSUE
Her Highness Sheikha Latifah Al Maktoum
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer MANAGING PARTNER AND GROUP EDITOR Ian Fairservice EDITOR/ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Amy Sessions amy.sessions@motivate.ae FASHION AND BEAUTY EDITOR Natalie Westernoff SENIOR EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Cecilia D’Souza SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Olga Petroff DIGITAL STYLE EDITOR Diana Bell-Heather DIGITAL EDITOR Olivia Morris DIGITAL FEATURES WRITER EMIRATES WOMAN ARABIYA Diyana Hakmi WEB DEVELOPER Firoz Kaladi DIGITAL DIRECTOR Sabir Khodabux GROUP MARKETING MANAGER - DIGITAL Anusha Azees GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION Sunil Kumar ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER Binu Purandaran PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR Venita Pinto CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER Anthony Milne GROUP DIRECTOR Andrew Wingrove GROUP SALES MANAGER Bindu Gupta bindu@motivate.ae SENIOR SALES MANAGER Neha Kannoth neha.kannoth@motivate.ae GROUP CREATIVE SOLUTIONS MANAGER Kelli Maddock kelli@motivate.ae
HEAD OFFICE Media One Tower, Dubai Media City, PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE, Tel: (+971) 4 4273000, Fax: (+971) 4 4282261, E-mail: motivate@motivate.ae DUBAI MEDIA CITY Office 508, 5th Floor, Building 8, Tel: (+971) 4 3903550 Fax: (+971) 4 3904845 ABU DHABI PO Box 43072, UAE, Tel: (+971) 2 6772005 , Fax: (+971) 2 6770124, E-mail: motivate-adh@motivate.ae LONDON Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER, UK, E-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae
Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai
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Editor’s Letter Welcome to The Power Issue. I would like to thank Sheikha Latifah Al Maktoum on page 30, Sheikha Dana Her Highness Sheikha Latifah Al Maktoum for the Al Khalifa on page 120, Her Highness Sheikha Intisar Al honour of allowing us to present her as our cover star for Sabah on page 124, Her Royal Highness Princess Lamia this prestigious edition. Shooting the cover at sunrise bint Majid Al Saud on page 128, Her Excellency Dr was not only the backdrop for an incredible shoot on page Maryam Mohamed Fatma Matar MD PhD on page 134, 24 but allowed us to share time with one CEO of Standard Chartered Bank Rola of the most dedicated, hard-working Abu Manneh on page 136 and Director and inspiring women we’ve ever met. General of Smart Dubai Her Excellency With special thanks to two dear Dr Aisha Bin Bishr on page 131. Further MINDSET IS friends M & N, who supported to make afield, we speak to co-founder of Good EVERYTHING. this happen. American, Emma Grede about the I’m exceptionally proud of this power of inclusivity on page 92 and issue. For our cover shoot we partnered Ralph & Russo on the subtle art of with NET-A-PORTER, a powerhouse building an empire almost silently on of a company I was lucky enough to spend many years page 114, through integrity and a fierce attention to detail. working at and learning best practice across many arenas. The Runway Report on page 38 is your guide to FW20 In this issue we have exclusive interviews with a long list dressing for the season ahead. of incredible women, one of whom is Alison Loehnis, In a year that asks us to draw from the power within President of NET-A-PORTER and MR PORTER. If you to overcome the challenges we face, having insight into want to find out what it takes to drive a business of this how the incredible individuals throughout this issue do magnitude forward and stay adept at galvanizing a team just this can provide no better inspiration. Challenges to do the same, read The Power Player on page 32. We also are our biggest openings for transformation. have exclusive interviews with our cover star Her Highness Mindset is everything.
Amy Sessions EDITOR / ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
T H E H E R O B U YS
Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex Dhs221 Estée Lauder
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13 leather ankle boots Dhs2,739 Legres available at NET-A-PORTER
Limited Edition Top Dhs289 Zara
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CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2020 Exclusive Interview: Her Highness Sheikha Latifah Al Maktoum p.30
18 THE MONITOR
Monitor news p.18 Accounts to follow this month p.20 Plug & Play – Power of the mind p.22 Cover Shoot p.24
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WHERE DIVERSITY UNITES
CREATED AT PARK HYATT DUBAI
800 4360
MARINAHOMEINTERIORS
CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2020
Hot new buys p.98
The power of reinvention: Lucinda Chambers x Max Mara p.78
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112
FASHION
Exclusive Interview: Alison Loehnis, President NET-APORTER and MR PORTER p.32 The Edit – Power Dressing p.36 The Hero Buys p.58 Exclusive Interview: Nisreen Shocair, CEO YNAP Middle East p.60 Alexander McQueen FW20 p.62
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FEATURES
Exclusive Interview Faiza Bouguessa p.68
BEAUTY
Etro FW20 p.72
The power of performance p.96 Machine Power p.100
Exclusive Interview: Elizabeth von der Goltz, Global buying Director, NET-APORTER p.112
The power of forward thinking: Misha Nonoo p.90
Interview with the founders of Apotheca Beauty p.102
The power of building a brand silently: Ralph & Russo p.114
The power of inclusivity: Good American p.92
Am/pm beauty p.106 Beauty shelf – Tamara Ralph p.108
The power of collaboration: Sheikha Dana Al Khalifa p.120
Bold & Beautiful Bulgari p.94
Power of the perfect smile p.110
Social strength: Amy Roko p.121
En Pointe – Killer Heels p.76
The Cover
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GIVENCHY
38
THE RUNWAY REPORT FW20
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CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2020 Dior AW2020 p.82
141
The power of identity: Nadine Kanso p.118
The power of knowledge: Director General Smart Dubai’s Her Excellency Dr Aisha Bin Bishr p.131 The Mentor: Fashion Trust Arabia p.122 The power of support: Her Highness Sheikha Intisar Al Sabah p.124 The power of nurture: Khadija Al Bastaki, Executive Director Dubai Design District p.126 The empowering princess: Her Royal Highness Princess Lamia Bint Majid Al Saud p.128
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Exclusive Interview Marjan Faraidooni Chief Pavilion and Exhibition Officer Expo 2020 p.132 Power Pioneer: Her Excellency Dr Maryam Mohamed Fatma Matar MD, Ph.D p.134 Exclusive Interview Rola Abu Manneh, CEO Standard Chartered Bank p.136 The Team Players p.138
LIFE
Pro Caffeinating – for the coffee connoisseur p.141 Strong Stuff – Three Coffee p.142 The power of perseverance – Joey Ghazal p.144 The Power of Giving p.148 The Investment p.154
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Bottega Venetta FW20/21
THE HERO BUYS This FW20 – we’ve fallen for Zara’s latest drop of van leather and cool suit-out knits.
From the oversized faux fur to the fringed clutches and bug-like shades, Bottega Veneta has nailed FW20 dressing.
Necklace with round links and lobster clasp fastening Dhs89
Sea green cashmere sweater Dhs649
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Crafted in Italy from smooth leather, Bottega Veneta evokes a bohemian mood with this tan The Fringe shoulder bag. Dhs10,780 Bottega Veneta available at matchesfashion.com
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Bottega Veneta’s sophisticated house codes are conveyed through the confident square frames of these dark brown glasses. They’re crafted in Japan from tortoiseshell acetate. Dhs1,680 Bottega Veneta
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This gold-tone one has been made in Italy in a gleaming lariatstyle shape and tipped with a dramatic ball pendant. Fasten the clasp to any link to adjust the drop. Dhs23,096 Bottega Veneta available at NET-A-PORTER
High-waist faux leather trousers Dhs199
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
THREE
THE MONITOR – NEWS
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PROMOTION
T-Bar Snake Chain Bracelet in Pandora Rose Dhs845
Triple Band Pavé Snake chain pattern Sterling Silver ring Dhs495
T-Bar Snake Chain Bracelet in Sterling Silver Dhs345
The Icons
A DOUBLE DECADE OF JEWELLERY
Pandora is the brand that delivers perfectly proportioned charms season after season, making them both collectable and the ideal gift. For the last two decades the brand has carved its own niche in the world of jewellery with its iconic bracelets and charms to pendants and other pieces, offering unique and
personalised accessories for each individual to voice their loves and passions. The new ‘Icons’ collection celebrates the innovative designs Pandora has created over the years, and focuses on the brand’s signature snake chain essence and pattern. Individually handcrafted, these pieces look ideal alone or layered together. Using the bracelet as a canvas, and to mark their 20year anniversary, Pandora has added two new designs of the Pandora Moments bracelet as well as other sleek reimagined design pieces to the collection for you to own and enjoy. The new cutting-edge design made with the brand’s high-quality craftsmanship features new bracelet closures and metal mixed with pave. It’s always the finer details that make a difference to your style and these stunning pieces will transcend seasonal trends. Pandora’s muses who are a global collective of inspiring women – Georgia May
Jagger, Halima Aden, Margaret Zhang and more – are the perfect style inspiration for how to wear a piece of your very own. Stephen Fairchild, Chief Product Officer, says, “The 20th birthday of the Pandora Moments bracelet celebrates two decades of crossing borders by giving women of all ages, ethnicities and backgrounds a way to interpret and personalise our designs in their own unique ways. When they share their stories and passions through their charm bracelet, it’s an opportunity for them to reflect on the meaningful moments in their life.” He adds, “We strive to allow innovation to excel so that Pandora can evolve along with our consumers and discover new ways to serve them. Yet we’ll always preserve our key traditions of storytelling self-expression and collectability. History evolves, but we’ll never forget our core values.” Invest in a new piece or start your collection now.
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Social Listings
@goodamerican
@elizaebethvdg
@lamarzoccohome
@rayaalkhalifa
Co-founded by Emma Grede and Khloe Kardashian, this is a brand for ALL women. Good American aims to celebrate curves through body positivity as well as giving back through donations to underresourced communities.
NET-A-PORTER’s Global Buying Director Elizabeth von der Goltz is a key player in championing the trends of not only this season but next season. We love her street style pictures en route to a show.
This is the Rolls-Royce of coffee machines. La Marzocco was first made to create that perfect Italian espresso and happily, you can have a mini version in your own home.
Sheikha Raya Al-Khalifa has a feed that seamlessly blends old and new images. We love her inspirational vintage images and sense of humour, she’s also beautiful inside and out.
@nak
@mariatash
@fashiontrustarabia
@amyroko
Noura bint Mohammed Al Kaabi, the Minister of Culture and Knowledge Development for the United Arab Emirates since October 2017. Her focus is on the preservation and development of Emirati Cultural Heritage.
Body jeweller Maria Tash is the go-to for many celebrities and now happily has a store here in the Middle East. We love her carefully curated ear adornments.
A non-profit organization created to provide financial and business support to designers in the MENA region. The only initiative of its kind in the Arab region, they have previously partnered with Matches Fashion to provide mentorship and guidance to creative designers.
The 28-year-old talented Saudi content creator has created a platform that speaks to an impressive 1 million on Instagram.
@bouguessa
@thegivingmovement
@nikewomen
@ilhanmn
Founded in Dubai by Faiza Bouguessa, the brand’s DNA focuses on clean lines, geometric shapes, and precision to ensure their pieces are perfect.
Working by the philosophy of “Small acts multiplied by many people can transform the world”. The UAEbased activewear brand aims to support the community by being sustainable and donating $4 from each order to their partner charities.
Promoting athletic female figures to inspire the next generation we love this – ‘we can all win’ attitude.
The first Hijabi woman to be elected for the US congress serving as the U.S. Representative for Minnesota. Ilhan Omar stands for equality in every sense.
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COMPILED: DIYANA HAKMI
A curated list of who to #follow this month
THE MONITOR
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ADVENTURE FACE ON SHEGLAM, a trailblazing new makeup brand synonymous with bold, fearless looks has launched their new ‘Stay Wild’ line for the season. These essentials are designed for the adventurous at heart– the ones who are unapologetically fearless. It is characterized by vibrant, earthy-coloured eyeshadows, matte and metallic liquid lipsticks, a dual function waterproof mascara, to name a few. At its core, SHEGLAM is all about honest, high-end makeup coprised of cruelty-free pigments without the high price tag. SHEGLAM is currently exclusively available on the SHEIN app.
Hidden Brain
Plug & Play
The best podcasts and apps to optimise the power of your mind
The Hidden Brain helps curious people understand the world – and themselves. Using science and storytelling, Hidden Brain’s host Shankar Vedantam reveals the unconscious patterns that drive human behaviour, the biases that shape our choices and the triggers that direct the course of our relationships. Optimal Living Daily
The Optimal Living Daily (OLD) Podcast narrates to you the best content on minimalism, personal development, and life optimisation. Hosted by award-winning podcaster and audiobook narrator Justin Malik, the podcast was created to give listeners an easier way to consume their favourite blog content in the personal growth and self-development genre. Concepts like mindfulness and living intentionally no longer need to be continuously out of reach. By listening to the OLD podcast, you’ll learn how to master your time and thoughts no matter how much you have on your plate, and learn how to genuinely be your best self.
WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
Insight Timer
Empower your mind with this app, which features an extensive library of guided meditations with over 27,000 titles provided by experts including neuroscientists, psychologists and mindfulness teachers. The Rise & Conquer Podcast
Awaken, discover and connect to the deeper meaning of the world around you with SuperSoul. Hear Oprah’s personal selection of her interviews with thought-leaders, bestselling authors, spiritual luminaries, as well as health and wellness experts. All designed to light you up, guide you through life’s big questions and help bring you one step closer to your best self.
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Sleep Timer
The power of the mind begins with a good night’s sleep. This app acts an intelligent alarm clock and uses a tracker to analyse your patterns and wakes you up in your lightest sleep phase.
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Oprah’s SuperSoul Conversations
This podcast is for those who want to take ownership of their lives, live unapologetically and are ready to turn their dreams into reality. The Rise & Conquer podcast will provide the tools and actionable steps that will inspire you to take bold action, feel confident within yourself and conquer your goals. Each week host Georgie Stevenson is joined by a different guest to chat about all things health, mastering your mindset, creating lasting habits, thriving in your career and relationships and so much more.
THE MONITOR
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PROMOTION
Real Power
T H E M E R C E D E S - A M G G L E 5 3 4 M AT I C + C O U P É H A S E V E R Y T H I N G . I F YO U ’ R E H I T T I N G T H E R OA D, D O I T I N ST Y L E .
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f you’re looking for a car that’s as cool as it is practical, the Mercedes-AMG GLE 53 4MATIC+ Coupé delivers it all. Boasting a sporty and elegant design complete with the signature AMG radiator grille, this is a car for life. The exterior design evokes a sense of power, while the interior is all about comfort. Choose from 64 interior colours as well as a range of different interior fragrances and massage programmes to enjoy whether you’re on a road trip or the school run. Complete with voice command system, everything is designed for ease. A simple ‘Hey Mercedes, I feel cold’ command will auto-
matically allow the intelligent MBUX to adjust the temperature for you so you can drive in comfort. The Mercedes-Benz User Experience (MBUX) is a future you can live starting today. Not only does the Mercedes-AMG GLE 53 4MATIC+ Coupé look like a power player, it feels like one, with the E-ACTIVE BODY CONTROL suspension system that ensures your ride is a smooth one whether you’re on a home straight or taking the racing line. Buckle up. This is the car of the future. To learn more visit Mercedes-benz-mena.com
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WO R D S & C R E AT I V E D I R E C T I O N : A M Y S E S S I O N S PHOTOGRAPHY: ŽIGA MIHELCIC
The
Perfectionist
Her Highness Sheikha Latifah Al Maktoum is dedicated to excellence. We spoke with Her Highness, the daughter of Sheikh Ahmed bin Maktoum bin Juma Al Maktoum and Sheikha Hessa bint Rashid Al Maktoum, sister to Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the Vice President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai to find out what it takes to keep your mind in champion mode. 24 emirateswoman.com
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COVER STORY
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COVER STORY
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COVER STORY
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PRODUCTION: KELLI MADDOCK; VIDEOGRAPHER: STEVE ERANA; FASHION ASSISTANT: CAMILLE MACAWILI; MAKEUP: MELANIE MEYER AT MMG ARTISTS; HAIR: ANIA PONIATOWSKA AT MMG ARTISTS; LOCATION: WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO SHARJAH EQUESTRIAN & RACING CLUB WWW.SERC.AE +971 65 31 1 155
Are you an early riser and do you feel like this is the key to success? I was never really an early riser but I’m very active and if I get things done early then I get time for myself. I feel my brain shuts off the minute it gets dark. I sleep with my curtains open because I like to wake up with the sunlight, although most days I’m up before the sun. I think the key to success is to love what you do. It all depends if you love what you do. If you have fun and enjoy what you do then you’re already winning. What do your first 30 mins of the day look like, your morning routine? First thing when I wake up is have Canarino, it’s an Italian drink with hot water and lemon peel, and I add paprika to it. Afterwards I drink 750ml of water, staying hydrated is so important. I wake my dogs and head to the stables early to ride. Depending on the weather, I try to ride one or two horses outside before riding the rest inside. Being out in the sun is so important both mentally and physically. You grew up riding, when did you realise it would be something you’d take further? We’ve always been around horses and my family loves horses in every sport; racing, endurance, polo, and show jumping. I realised that I wanted to take my show jumping further very early on. When I was thirteen, I saw the Dubai helped you in what you do and has it ever held you back? Being a perfecShow Jumping team training and I thought to myself, tionist I think has hindered me more than helped! Sometimes I have to I want to be on that team. Realising that I had to prove learn to let things go. I cannot control everything and sometimes that myself, I worked really hard and made the team. Evencan be hard to accept. I have learned though that I can only control what I do and how I react to things so that’s what I try to focus on. tually my goal was to attend the Asian games and be on the UAE Show Jumping team, it was my first NaYour mother Her Highness Sheikha Hessa bint Rashid Al Maktoum has tions Cup and UAE won their first ever medal in show been a strong influence in your career – do you think it’s important to have jumping and being on that team was such an amazing a strong female role model and how important is it to balance this with a experience and I was hooked ever since. softer side of power? My mother has always been my biggest supporter and my role model. She has always taught me to work hard if I ever Success is made up of so many facets from training to wanted to achieve anything. She taught me that nothing was given and diet and mindset. What do you feel is the most imporeverything was earned. I don’t think any woman needs to balance out a tant? I think success depends on how each individual softer side - why should women be apologetic for being strong? defines success. How I define success is making the best of what I have. I work with many different horsWhich brands do you personally buy into when it comes to fashion es and each horse is an individual, when you’re off-duty? I live in my some are naturally talented and some Lululemon leggings, anything that’s need to be educated. Some horses comfortable, as comfort is key for me. “P O W E R I S have unlimited potential and some Which brands or beauty products are less so, I would never ask a horse to your real hero buys? I love Kat Von D K N OW I N G T H AT do what they cannot. For me success products. I’ve got very sensitive skin is being able to take each individual and her products are vegan, cruelty NO ONE horse and train them to the highest free and long lasting. IS ENTITLED level they are able to attain. Success This year has proven challenging for can also take the form of small wins; many businesses and leaders. If you AND I always try to create small goals that face a challenge – what have you peramount to a larger big-picture goal. sonally found is the most successful EVERYTHING You’ve mentioned previously you’re a way to overcome it? I learned I can I S E A R N E D .” only control what I can do. I can only perfectionist. How do you feel this has control my actions not my surroundings or other people’s actions. So why get frustrated by things you cannot control, it will not change anything. You have to make the best of every situation and there is always a light at the end of the tunnel even though sometimes you cannot see it. What advice would you give to your younger self, starting out? Surround yourself with like-minded people, those who bring out the best version of you. If you were not doing what you do now, which other role would you choose careerwise? I think whatever I would do would most probably be something to do with sports. I love being active and I think it’s so important to live an active lifestyle. This is The Power Issue – what is power to you? I think power is understanding, you can’t do everything on your own. Power is knowing that you don’t know everything and you will constantly keep learning. Power is knowing when you’ve made mistakes and owning up to Left page: Ribbed cardigan Dhs1,246 Lee Mathews them. Power is leading by example; you can’t expect those around Leather-trimmed cotton-blend pants Dhs2,702 you to work hard if you don’t. Power is knowing that no one is enGiuliva Heritage + NET SUSTAIN + Space for Giants; titled and everything is earned. All available at NET-A-PORTER
COVER STORY
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Alison Loehnis, President of NET-A-PORTER and MR PORTER is an incredible woman. Combining an innate sense of style with one of the sharpest minds in the industry, we asked what it takes to continually stay one step ahead and perpetually innovate in an industry as fast-paced as fashion
The Power Player WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
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FAS H I O N
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IMAGES: NET-A-PORTER
What do your first 30 mins of the day look like? My morning routine has remained pretty consistent for quite a long time. I get up early before my house gets up, just to get ahead of the day. It might be catching up on emails or messages from Asia, it might be getting ahead on admin and I still write letters, so maybe an opportunity to do that. I love running, so when the motivation hits me I will go for a run in the morning and we also have a new puppy so he needs taking out. By the time the kids get up I can be super present and I’ve got a jump start on my to-do list for the day. This year marks the 20th Anniversary for NAP. Tell us about your role as President of both Net- A Porter and MR PORTER – how do you divide your time and how has it changed in the decade you’ve been there? My role is several-fold, which is what I love about it and what makes it interesting. Essentially, I am there to run the business, run the divisions, steer the ship and keep us really set on strategy; set our targets and really make sure we keep our eyes on the big picture. We have lots of wonderful teams that
feel are super important and part of our DNA, yet remained very flexible and adaptable to the market. We stay one step ahead so we always can delight our customer. You have a superb team. What do you look for when hiring? First of all, thank you. I think they are superb. What I look for is technical expertise, that goes without saying, positivity, a certain spark, a go-getting type attitude and ideas – I love ideas. I like an interesting CV, people who have experimented, done interesting things. Having a sense of humour and being a good person are vital. In your role you have to have the ability to wear a lot of ‘hats’ in terms of understanding marketing, what makes the luxury customer tick etc. What do you think are your natural strengths and which part do you enjoy most? So, what I think makes the luxury customer tick, is fabulous products – it all starts with the product. Also, service – and by service I don’t necessarily mean speed. Of course, it can be speed, moreover it’s – are you getting me what I want on my terms, what I need and when I need it and also giving me some pastoral care? How do I wear it? What do I put it with? Tell me about the designer. I think that’s where video content and written content has a really important role to play. In terms of strengths I over index on, I am a product obsessive. I love fashion, I love products and I am decisive. I am like the customer cop, a customer advocate. I’m super organised. I don’t like complexity for complexity sake. I like keeping things straight, simple and direct. Everything comes back to the customer; always making sure when we are planning something whether it’s a product, whether it’s a service, whether it’s a feature to help the customer. I am an extrovert and I love people so I love working as a team and can’t wait for everyone to be back to the offices. Walking across the office, which I do all the time, is so super fulfilling and lovely to see everyone, but I also think I get so are focusing on the details and there is a lot much done. If I walk from one end of the ofof granularity involved with regards to the fice to another I can get half a dozen things business. For me, it’s more important that accomplished. I love coming up with ideas I keep a macro view. I would say that across and seeing them executed. my entire role I am really focused on our business and creativity, people sometimes Which brands do you personally buy into assume that those two things are mutually or which have you seen really driving the exclusive, but they’re not. I think by being business? Saint Laurent, Gucci, The Row, creative it doesn’t necessarily mean that you Mother Denim I personally love, Isabel Maare a designer or an art director but that you rant, Gianvito Rossi, Gabriella Hearst and can approach business decisions and chalUlla Johnson. lenges in a creative way, which I think is reHave you seen any trends in terms of buying ally important. I’m organised and divide my behaviour during lockdown? Yes absolutely. time across the two brands, but not always There was an evolution of lockdown spendequally at any given moment. I think what’s ing, which was initially lots of sportswear, remained a constant for us is our unwaverloungewear, underwear, sleepwear. Then it ing focus on the customer, on amazing serwas Zoom dressing, so makeup, skincare, vice, on fabulous products, on being the best earrings, tops and beyond that we see cusof the best and bringing our world to life tomers buying into investment pieces such through content and of course technology as fine jewellery and watches. Utilitarian has changed. Ten years ago we were talking pieces and investment buys or a great handabout apps and how everything is migrating. bag, pieces that will stand the test of time. At that point mobile was really a very small We’ve only seen the beauty industry go fraction of business via app sales. What I from strength to strength – is this an imporfeel great about is that in an ever moving tant category for NET-A-PORTER? Yes, landscape we have held true to things that I absolutely its hugely important to us. We
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lenge – what have you found is personally the most successful way to overcome it? I am not super reactive. I think and I digest and then I spring into action. I think it’s really important to not go it alone – your team plays such an integral role. It’s about galvanising people around you and action is super important. Identifying a clear plan, clear target and all working together. Do you have any pre-bedtime rituals? I have got my beauty routine with my Decree. I have my weekly masks, I have a weekly fruit acid peel. I try not to go onto Instagram or anything ever before I go to bed. I might have a quick look at something important that I have to look up. But I am not emailing before I go to sleep and I am always reading something. What effect has social media played in the luxury industry and which channel do you feel will be strongest in future? Social media has had a massive impact. Instagram particularly, has had such a huge effect obviously because it is so visual in nature and it has also affected the way brands market themselves, it helps them democratize fashion in terms of access. For me as an individual and for us as a company it’s really interesting as a way to source new brands and again the ability to access them directly. It creates dialogue, you can have dialogue with the customers and it is a fantastic way of doing that. I don’t think Instagram has peaked at all. And I think there is much more to come. You’ve been in the business for 13 years – how did your previous roles help you succeed in your role? I feel lucky because I have had a pretty broad career, but there has been a through-line – sales. Selling a product, marketing a product – I’ve always been product focused, always customer focused, always balancing creativity in busitural Digest or World of Interiors and then ness. I think advertising is amazing training I have a host of really small antique dealers – how to run a meeting, how to contact cliand vintages dealers and vintages shows ents. When I was at Disney it was how you across the UK mainly. And I can basically package an idea, how do you sell an idea and go down the enormous rabbit hole that is pitch in. LVMH was my introduction to the Pinterest. I just moved house, so for me it’s luxury retail sector and also to digital. It’s all really house focused. all come together in a sense and it has been We love your style; how do you approach pretty diverse, but there are some real conplanning a seasonal wardrobe? I don’t have sistent themes that run through. a wardrobe strategy. I know what I like. I love the seventies, that seems to be consisWhat advice would you give to your younger tent. I’ve never really met a prairie dress, self starting out? Trust your instinct. Go high-collared blouse, or corduroy I didn’t with your gut. Don’t be a slave to your CV. really like and that never changes. For sumIf it’s something that you find interesting mer I definitely embrace more colour. I inand if it’s the right move for you, then it’s vest in pieces I can wear again and again, so the right move for you and whether it creclassic brands such as Saint Laurent are my ates the CV that you have always dreamed of constant and then what goes around them don’t worry about that so much. I would say will change. find out what you like to do, take your time, ask questions and just go for it. I know that Over the years of attending shows, have you might sound easier said than done, but you mastered any packing tips to keep it light? have to kiss a few frogs, so to speak. Your Planning. Anyone who says, “Oh I just first job is not necessarily the job you stay throw it in the bag” either overpacks or is with forever and that’s okay. telling a false story. It also depends on what season of shows. Everyone will say watch it If you were not President at NET-A-PORTER on the outerwear, but I think when you are and MR PORTER, which other role would going to shows in February and March it’s you choose career-wise? I love my role very, cold – it’s hard to keep it light in winter. It’s very much. If I was not doing what I am domuch easier in September. ing, I would possibly be an art dealer. Or –an archeologist, simply because I am fasThis year has proven challenging for many cinated by finding something undiscovered. businesses and leaders. If you face a chal-
“Luxury is not about speed, it’s not about volume. It’s about quality, creativity and authenticity.”
launched it seven years ago. We sell you the tools to get the whole look and we are in a position to merchandise beauty alongside the fashion so we can give the customer the head-to-toe option, which is a great service. Skincare has become amongst the most important categories. Which brands or beauty products are your real hero buys? There are a few, but there is a newish collection that we launched earlier this year, a new brand called Decree which is amazing. It’s super simple – there’s a morning wash, an evening wash, two serums, mosituriser and sun care. The Augustinus Bader body cream and Frederick Malle Carnal Flower I’ve worn many, many times. What today is luxury in this time of fashion’s reset? I think it’s being able to do things on your own terms. Luxury is not about speed, it’s not about volume. It’s about quality, creativity and authenticity and that pertains to everything from products to relationships to how one spends one’s time. How do you approach client engagement and retention and does this approach differ in terms of men and women? It’s super important to us and the way we approach it we will never stop evaluating. We can always do more and we can always learn from what we’ve done and try to do it better. As a company we are very nimble. To use lockdown as an example, we came up with really innovative ways to engage our customers. Where we had been reliant on offline activity with clients, we turned our focus to how we could do more in terms of digital? Is it a digital wardrobe clear out? Is it introducing you to the designer and having a very special moment with them? In terms of is it different for men and women – no. But the kinds of things we do are different. The ‘what’ can differ, but the ‘how’ doesn’t. Which Instagram accounts do you follow for inspiration - or books would you recommend? For Instagram I have been very interiors focused. I always start with Architec-
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OFF-WHITE
POWER
Never under estimate the power of a perfectly cut suit. Not only will it stand the test of time, it’ll act as armour for every occasion
Oval acetate sunglasses Dhs1,550 Celine Eyewear
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Carabiner-clasp curb-chain choker Dhs1,130 Etro
Oversized single-breasted twill jacket Dhs3,350 Another Tomorrow
Dyo leather trainers Dhs640 Primury available at Matches Fashion
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GIVENCHY
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DRESSING
Flat-top mask acetate sunglasses Dhs1,670 Loewe
Manhattan medium leather tote bag Dhs12,305 Saint Laurent
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Tie-front cady blazer Dhs3,397 3.1 Philip Lim
Yara buckled leather sandals Dhs1,750 Wandler
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THE RUNWAY REPORT FW20 WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
GIVENCHY
VALENTINO
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PETER PETROV
ALESSANDRA RICH
Leather
A perennial staple when it comes to fall collections, this season took two polar directions; oversized with a nod to the Eighties as seen at Balmain and Alberta Ferretti and second skin as seen at Valentino, Peter Do and Alessandra Rich. Black grey and tones of caramel were prevalent and make the ideal investment shade.
PETER DO
ALBERTA FERRETTI
BALMAIN
GABRIELA HEARST
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Fantasia
GIVENCHY
Oversized silhouettes, cape detailing, otherworldly prints and stand-out accessories make for a magical season of playing dress up without feeling costume-like. Alexandre Vauthier’s Matador-inspired hats and Clare Waight-Keller‘s Caped suiting for Givenchy feel like a fresh, modern approach.
GIVENCHY
ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
ETRO
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Voltage
Molten metallics in gold bullion, pewter and quicksilver are the ideal piece for party season. Burberry and Proenza Schouler both delivered a feminine silhouette for evening in fluid dress form, while Balmain and Alexandre Vauthier opted for a mannish take with out-sized suiting and a jumpsuit respectively.
PROENZA SCHOULER
ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
BALMAIN
BURBERRY
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Winter Shade
Sunglasses came in either retro or futuristic form for FW20. Balmain’s blackout lenses will give you an extra dose of privacy or choose from a host of barely-there tints at Rick Owens, Chloé, Givenchy and more.
VALENTINO
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BALMAIN
CHLOÉ
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RICK OWENS
GIVENCHY
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BURBERRY
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BOTTEGA VENETA
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Clutch Control
Oversized and tactile the new wave clutch is an ideal piece to update your wardrobe for FW20. Bottega Veneta’s teddy clutch complete with fringing is firmly on our wishlist along with The Row’s chestnut leather and Burberry’s perfectly proportioned box clutch. BALMAIN
PETER DO THE ROW
CALVIN LUO
CELINE
ALTUZARRA
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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Check Mate It’s not uncommon for checks to make an appearance in fall, this season they were teamed with military jackets at Off-White for an urban take and graphic cuts at Alexander McQueen. Head-to-Toe dressing at Givenchy with Poirot-inspired outerwear. Keep print small if you’re trying this for the first time and dilute with a tonal neutral. BURBERRY
OFF-WHITE
GIVENCHY
GIVENCHY
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LOUIS VUITTON
The hero here is Balmain. Baroque prints, embellishment and booming Eighties silhouettes are a testament to Olivier Rousteing’s incomparable ability to bring a retro details and drive them into the future. Missoni also deserves a mention – their intricate knits are a hero buy you’ll have for years to come.
Opulent Prints
MISSONI
BALMAIN
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DION LEE
BRANDON MAXWELL
BEVZA
Body Con
This season body-con came complete with clever cutouts. Brandon Maxwell and Bevza both kept slits elegant and subtle while Off-White and Dion Lee took a more daring approach with midriff-baring dresses and thigh revealing skirts.
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GIVENCHY
The extra-long pants feels slouchy, cool and undone across the runway this season most notable at Givenchy and Off-White. Ideally teamed with a sky-high heel, let hemlines fall a little longer than usual for a relaxed approach to suiting. While we love Altuzarra’s pairing of a textured flat – this is an inside option only.
XXL Pants
ALTUZARRA
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AGNONA
ALBERTA FERRETTI
STELLA MCCARTNEY
Clean Slate
GIVENCHY
Grey is an unsung hero shade, suitable for every skin tone. Choose form pebble to slate and go head-to-toe a la Alberta Ferretti or team with a warm shade to lift your look, chestnut and oxblood work well as seen at Givenchy and Stella McCartney.
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BEVZA
BALENCIAGA
BOTTEGA VENETA
Serious Sleeve
The power shoulder seems ever prevalent on the runway in some form and this season is not exception. Balenciaga’s gothic feeling shoulders are a notable favourite; as are Bottega Venetta’s extra-long sleeve additions and Max Mara’s feminine ruffle detailing.
MAX MARA
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ISABEL MARANT
DION LEE
Soft Touch
It wouldn’t be fall/winter without tactile fabrics and cosy knits. Shearling, fleece and faux-fur all made an appearance on the runway, Peter Petrov, Isabel Marant and Burberry all choosing to belt teddy coats while Bottega Veneta and Rick Owens had fun with unexpected faux fur in colourful hues.
BURBERRY
PETER PETROV
BOTTEGA VENETA
RICK OWENS
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VALENTINO
CHRISTIAN DIOR
BOTTEGA VENETA
The General
Army boots are the perfect way to toughen up the feminine pieces in your wardrobe, as well as making the perfect pairing to combat-inspired pants for an easy off duty look. Choose heavyduty soles, buckle and lace-up detailing as seen at Valentino, Bottega Veneta and Dior.
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VALENTINO
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GIVENCHY
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GIVENCHY
Double-breasted virgin wool and cashmere blazer Dhs10,290 Saint Laurent
Double-breasted wool-tweed jacket Dhs8,015 Alexandre Vauthier
WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
Single-breasted virginwool gabardine blazer Dhs7,645 Prada available at Matches Fashion
Satin-trimmed crepe and lace blazer Dhs11,570 Alexander McQueen
THE
HERO BUYS
Whether you’re back in the office for board meetings or wanting to nail a Zoom call in style, an investment blazer or structured bag will stand the test of time
Double large intrecciato shearling tote Dhs23,006 Bottega Veneta
Mystic small leather tote Dhs9,783 Givenchy
Billy glossed-leather shoulder bag Dhs1,876 By Far available at NET-A-PORTER
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Peekaboo leather tote Dhs19,524 Fendi
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
vestments in ‘Dr’ brands such as Dr Barbara Sturm and Dr Sebagh. We’ve also seen a strong demand for luxury Haircare from the Middle East with brands such as Ouai, Virtue and Philip Kingsley. It’s an exciting space as it is still under saturated with a growing appetite amongst younger customers to experiment with new brands and formulas. Which platforms work best in the region as a mode of communication for luxury clients and do you still feel offline is as important as online? In the Middle East, 70 percent of sales are via mobile and app. Social media channels are critical as that’s how our younger Middle East consumers prefer us to engage with them. We also have a dedicated Personal Shopping team based in Dubai who are the bridge between online and offline for us, including hosting events such as the Style Suites. All channels integrate seamlessly to provide one experience with our brand. Which brands or beauty products are your real hero buys? Angela Caglia LED mask. Dr. Barbara Sturm Night Serum, Tom Ford shade and illuminate spf 50, Huda Legit lashes and Perricone MD face cleanser. Which Instagram accounts do you follow for inspiration - or books would you recommend? I’ve read a few good books recently: Girl Woman Other. The Vanishing Half. Both were conversations about similar topics relating to identity. I love all social platforms for different reasons. On Instagram, other than staying on top of what we’re all about, it’s design and travel focused accounts that I enjoy. How did your previous roles help you succeed in your role and did you have a mentor in any of your previous roles? My initial career was in the music industry, and this experience has helped me as fashion and music complement one another. Having the New York and London career experiences coupled with the Middle East definitely helps me translate the NET-A-PORTER brand values in a way that resonates best for our Middle East customers. Also having lived and worked in the Middle East for the last decade, I see the opportunities we have across all our four brands and have built the in their shopping habits. We’ve noticed that right network to make changes that will soin the UAE women are confident in standing lidify our position in the market. out, but with more classic style parameters – I’ve had great men and women mentors favouring brands like Gucci and Zimmerman. over the years who have taught me the true They also buy directional pieces, more so in meaning of leadership. Saudi and Kuwait. In Kuwait they are the quickest to adopt the global trends, whilst in What are your top pieces of business advice? Saudi, they tend to find comfort and security ∙ Be determined about your path to success in more traditional luxury brands including and use every opportunity to reinforce that Saint Laurent and Balenciaga, but are also vision. looking for uniqueness through exclusive col∙ Managing with love, not fear, makes a CEO’s role far more rewarding. lections and collaborations. ∙ Profitability and sustainability can and Which brands do you personally buy into? I’m should be aligned. petite and prefer not to do any alterations to ∙ Always say yes and don’t be scared to fail. pieces, so I look for brands that have slim∙ Playing it safe is the surest way to stagnate. mer fits and are available in smaller sizes. ∙ If you can be yourself at work, then work Zimmerman, Khaite and Balmain crop life will be a happy blurred line. tops, Agolde jeans, Victoria Beckham, Bottega Veneta for accessories, Amina Muaddi, If you were not CEO at Yoox NET-A-PORand our local favourite Taller Marmo. TER Middle East, which other role would you We’ve only seen the beauty industry go from choose career-wise? I love how technology is democratising and enabling creativity. strength to strength – historically this pattern I would be in the music industry, creating is heavily replicated in the Middle East. Is this scores for tech and gaming platforms – like something you’re seeing today? Traditionally a Twitch platform but with music mixing the Middle East beauty industry was driven technology built in and where publishers are by cosmetics. The recent trend is towards the users themselves. high performance skincare with greater in-
The New Era Player
Tell us about your role as CEO for the Middle East at Yoox NET-A-PORTER? I’m looking forward to continuing to strengthen YOOX NET-A-PORTER’s leadership position in the luxury retail space in the region. As a business that has been around for 20 years, we have a lot of success to build on that can be tailored specifically for the Middle East, including localising and fostering communities around each of our brands. Your role requires you to understand the differing demographics that exist throughout the GCC, what similarities and differences do you notice and how do you approach localisation with this in mind? The Middle-East woman is highly-digital, mobile-savvy and wants service and speed like never before. In recent months, Middle Eastern customers have shown increased interest in timeless pieces they can wear for many seasons to come. However they also love to shop for fashion driven trend pieces, more than any other market. Looking ahead, we see categories, such as Fine Jewellery and Watches, Beachwear and evening wear continuing to grow. We have seen patterns in our customers’ sense of style by region and this is reflected
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IMAGE: WALEED SHAH
Nisreen Shocair, CEO YNAP Middle East is responsible for driving and developing the next phase of YOOX NET-A-PORTER GROUP’s ambitious strategy for the region. We spoke to Shocair about localisation, personalisation and connecting with the discerning, tech-savvy, luxury customer
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T H E
A R C H I T E C T
CHANNEL ALEXANDER MCQUEEN’S FEMININE POWER IN MASCULINE LINES FOR PFW20
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ALL AVAILABLE AT ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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What do your first 30 mins of the day look like, your morning routine? In the morning the first thing I do is pray, then I stretch for about 10mins and I drink about a litre of water and write down my goals for the day. On good days, when I wake up earlier, I breath, meditate, I review my long-term goals and read. What is at the heart of Bouguessa’s DNA as a brand? Bouguessa is made to inspire confidence. The ethos of the brand is all about minimal and sophisticated elegance for the modern woman. We recently announced our wish to move toward more sustainable practices, to allow women to feel good and do good when wearing our designs. What has been the biggest hurdle since starting your own brand and how did you overcome it? I have learned to quickly get back on my feet when a challenge occurs. We have had many hurdles and they’ll always be there, but what matters more is to look at the bigger picture and know deep inside that it will work out at the end and of course do everything in your power to overcome that hurdle. Do you have any mentors or guides and how does this help navigate the right path? Roland Mouret is my mentor, I had the chance to benefit from a mentoring programme via the Dubai Fashion and Design Council, back when Nez Gebreel was the CEO, and I visited London to meet Roland and his team for 3 days. I had the opportunity to sit with each key member of his team for an hour each, and this had a huge impact on my career as I learned so much. I was still starting and didn’t know what my next move should be and it allowed me to be more aware and confident as of what to do, who to hire next and how to handle my business. I am very thankful for this experience. Premium fabrics, perfectly precise cutting techniques and a clean brand aesthetic are something we’ve come to recognize from Bouguessa. Was this the goal from the outset? Absolutely, this was very important to me as I had a strong ambition for Bouguessa and a clear vision as of where I wanted to take the brand. I wanted to offer timeless designs that last and that still look new after being worn for years. Quality is part of our DNA and that’s why our products are made in our own ateliers, to make sure they are constructed following our strict standards and handled with care. You have an impressive list of clients globally, and particularly throughout the GCC. What do you feel is key to this success? I feel that listening to them has been key for me. A lot of my clients have become friends over time, and they give me valuable feedback on the Bouguessa pieces they own. I always ask what they would like to see, I like to see the fit of my designs on them and adapt the next collections accordingly.
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What is your approach to scaling the business? I don’t like to make any move without planning, and we try to be as detailed as possible when it comes to that. For example, we always try to find the right balance between hiring new staff, buying new machinery and investing in marketing. Which colourways/designs have been most popular the globe over and was that a surprise? Often it was the one design I wanted to cancel from the collection but my team loved it so I kept it. I always find it surprising! We adore your leather pieces – how have these been received? We started introducing leather since last year’s fall collection and they were quite popular. We have more pieces in the new Fall Winter collection. Now the challenge for future collections is to find the right supplier who will provide Vegetable Tanned Leather. You have clients the globe over – do you see any buying patterns based on regions or countries? Generally, people buy for similar reasons, they are going on vacation, they need a wardrobe for work, they have a special celebration or event. It just happens at different times for different regions. What in today’s market is luxury? I feel that luxury today lies within the authenticity of
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a brand and the experience it is offering its customers. How do you approach client engagement and retention? We have always approached this in a very organic way, we grew sustainably, and we are lucky to have amazing clients who have supported us for many years. My showroom in D3 is a space that is dedicated to them. I wanted to provide them with a relaxing and refined experience where they can just pause and enjoy a moment with us in a modern space that represents the Bouguessa esthetic. How has social media affected building Bouguessa? Social media is giving us more freedom to share authentic moments of the brand and engage with our community. We have been using Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest for years now and I know it has highly contributed in growing our brand awareness. Which Instagram accounts do you follow for inspiration/books do you recommend? I love @FashiionGoneRouge by Debora Rosa, @ kellywearstler, @rubyatelier, @royalgarance and so many more. Do you have any pre-bedtime rituals? Not really. What do you carry with you always when travelling? My whole house, I wish I knew how to pack light! 2020 has been a challenging year in business – how do you stay focused and have you had to pivot in terms of plans? Working with my team has helped me a lot. I feel we kept each other sane. Discussing our plans together has allowed me to stay positive and look beyond these challenging times. What advice would you give to your younger self starting out? Be patient, everything comes in its own time. If you had not launched Bouguessa which other role would you choose career-wise? I would say owning a small hotel or guesthouse is something I’d love to do. I love to create experiences and interior design. This issue is ‘The Power Issue’ – what defines power for you? A strong will to me is what defines true power. Knowing what you want in life and going for it no matter what.
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
“ I feel that luxury today lies within the authenticity of a brand and the experience it is offering its customers.”
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NOMADIC
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SPIRIT
The power of imagination and make believe at Etro WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
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PROENZA SCHOULER
There was an undercurrent of tough that ran through footwear on the FW20 runway with leather and hardware detailing. Opt for a killer heel whether you’re investing in a sandal or long-length…
EN
POINTE OFF-WHITE
WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
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Leather pumps Dhs4,289 Tom Ford
Nudist python-effect leather sandals Dhs2,110 Paris Texas
Wraparound snake-effect leather sandals Dhs4,870 Bottega Veneta
Newton metal-tip satin pumps Dhs3,730 Saint Laurent
Twist leather sandals Dhs1,285 Studio Amelia available at Moda Operandi
Ankle-strap pointed leather pumps Dhs3,695 Balenciaga
Montana 120 stretch-satin thigh boots Dhs5,045 Christian Louboutin available at NET-A-PORTER
Embellished over-theknee leather boots Dhs4,895 Isabel Marant
Slouchy knee-high leather boots Dhs4,685 Jil Sander
Leather-trimmed stretch-mesh thigh boots Dhs2,981 Balmain available at The Outnet
Stevie creased patent leather knee boots Dhs2,665 By Far
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British fashion director Lucinda Chambers was a pioneer in the industry for 36 years at the helm of Vogue. Since her departure, she’s enjoyed an even higher rise to success working with brands directly and founding luxury brand Colville
The Power of Reinvention WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
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who their customer base is and then to bring something new and innovative to the table with all of this in mind. I also think it’s vital to be able to work within a team, to understand where people are coming from and to nurture and encourage them to do their very best. Tell us why you chose to work with both Weekend Max Mara and Karen, we love both! The collection came about as Giorgio Guidotti who I have known for many years asked if I would collaborate on creating a capsule collection for Weekend. The team are great, enthusiastic, helpful and really wanted to create something special together, it was a joy working with them. I have worked with Karen many times and it’s a pleasure. Jack Davison took the pictures, and he hadn’t worked with Karen so it’s always nice to bring people together who admire each other. I was thrilled that Jack agreed to do this with me as he takes photography to another level in the fact it’s not just about the clothes. It’s about the mood and the environment and the light. Also, I loved the idea of Karen, with her hair colour in these clothes! So, it worked out really well and we had a very happy day. Also, Karen had done one of the first Weekend Max Mara campaigns so it felt a very natural fit and coming together again for the brand.
“ I have always been involved as a creative director in designing, it’s been and continues to be a huge part of my career.”
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IMAGES: SUPPLIED BY WEEKEND MAX MARA RE-FIND
Lucinda Chambers How did your years of experience set you up to work for yourself? I have always been involved as a creative director in designing, it’s been and continues to be a huge part of my career. I think being a creative one can segway into one thing after another, I’ve always worn different hats. Having worked on collections at Prada, Marni and Jil Sander this was a very natural fit for me. Do you feel somewhat re-invented in your new role? Yes, I have to say I do. I didn’t expect this change of career, having done what I did very happily for so long. But I am thrilled at the opportunities that come. To have started a digital company when I knew nothing about tech, Collagerie, and to be involved with launching our own brand, Colville, is very exciting. And then to have unexpected wonderful things along the way like designing this collection for Weekend is beyond a dream and I am loving every minute. Also, I have to say, it feels like the future. Where we aren’t so defined by our roles, we have many transferable skills that can go in many different directions! Which new skills were required in order to succeed in your freelance career and what advice would you give to anyone else wanting to make the leap? I think to understand the brand’s DNA that you are working with is fundamental. To have respect for it, to understand
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Follow Suit
Feel the power of perfectly cut tailoring for Dior’s AW2020 collection
Styling: JADE CHILTON Photography: MOX SANTOS Right page: Black wool bar jacket, Lady D-Lite medium velvet bag, striped blouse, earrings. All by Dior
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This page: Black leather jumpsuit, striped blouse, necklace; Right page: Black leather jumpsuit, striped blouse, necklace, earrings, rings, DIOR-I black suede heeled boots. All by Dior
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Left page: White vest, black dress, black fishnet socks, D-Major black boots, bracelet, necklace; This page: White vest, black dress, necklace, bracelet, earring. All by Dior
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MODEL: KATE AT MMG MODELS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: ANIA PONIATOWSKA AT MMG ARTISTS; LOCATION: HILLSIDE SHOW VILLA AT JUMEIRAH GOLF ESTATES, WWW.HILLSIDE.AE (04) 346 7255 INFO@HILLSIDE.AE
Left page: Grey pants, grey Dior Bobby bag, DIOR-I black suede shoes; This page: Black bar jacket, black CD belt, grey pants, white t-shirt, necklaces, earrings. All by Dior
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
The Power of Forward Thinking
As many fashion brands have adapted to the recent shift in dynamics throughout the world, designer Misha Nonoo was living a new normal before anyone else
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The world has seen 2020’s dramatic shift cause industries across the board to adapt in drastic ways, and the fashion industry is one such industry which has undergone a reset of mighty proportions. Luxury brands such as Saint Laurent, Burberry and Marc Jacobs all announced they would be forgoing Fashion Month, but this is a move Bahraini-British fashion designer Misha Nonoo made with her eponymous brand four years earlier, choosing to solely showcase her collections on social media. It was a brave and forward-thinking decision that paid off as Nonoo realised it was the “most efficient way to give customers access to a showcase”, she tells Emirates Woman. While many brands are re-evaluating their strategies at present, the fashion designer encourages everyone to embrace the shift in dynamics. “My advice would be to embrace the change, and use it as a stepping stone to re-examine other aspects of your company that might be outdated or disconnected from your customers,” she says. Born in Bahrain, raised in London, educated in Paris and now living in New York, it’s safe to say Nonoo has experienced a wealth of different cultures, launching her namesake label in 2011. “My multicultural upbringing exposed me to many definitions of fashion, prompting me to explore why women all over the world chose to dress the way they did,” she explains. “I’ve had the pleasure of meeting many impressive people along the way, and I felt inspired to create a modern, multifaceted, capsule wardrobe for them.” The eponymous brand by Nonoo explores the power of basics, creating the perfect capsule wardrobe with an array of items, which are all interchangeable and fit together. In particular, the designer has become wellknown for her iconic ‘Husband Shirt’, which is the favourite piece in her collection. “It is a universally flattering piece with elongated cuffs and a classic stitched tuxedo pleat and the signature MN logo embroidered on the back of the neck,” she explains. “What I love about the Husband Shirt is that it can be worn to board meetings with a pencil skirt, styled with jeans on your day off or accessorised for a date night. It is a versatile piece that every woman needs in their wardrobe.” In-keeping with this, Nonoo was recruited by her close friend Meghan Markle (now, Duchess of Sussex) as part of her patronage with Smart Works – a charity which provides a two-hour dressing and coaching service to women in the UK who are unemployed with upcoming job interviews. “The collaboration was very exciting because our values as a brand perfectly align with Smart Works’ and the Duchess of Sussex’s amazing mission of helping women succeed in the workforce,” Nonoo tells Emirates Woman. “We’ve always strived to provide women
with versatile, timeless clothing that helps give them confidence in their professional life.” The design process for the collection with Meghan was “super collaborative”, Nonoo reveals and was also a huge success. “Through the 1-for-1 model, we were able to donate 1,500 shirts to Smart Works, and help that many more women realise their potential,” the designer adds. The collaboration with the Duchess of Sussex is something she counts in her topthree highlights throughout her decade-long career with her brand. It hasn’t all been plain sailing, however, a particularly notable hurdle Nonoo notes was switching from the original wholesale model for her brand after realising it wasn’t “all it’s cracked up to be”. While the launch of her brand came after a chance encounter with a buyer from boutique department store Intermix, located in New York City, who complimented the budding designer on her jacket, down the line the
“To me, power means impact and impact equates to change and being to help others creates change.” wholesale model didn’t fit her aspirations. During her transition from wholesale to direct-to-customer, it was a challenge to raise capital. “When we shut down the wholesale accounts, income dried up,” she admits. “We had a six-month period where I basically went quiet, which was so tough from a business standpoint but worth it in the end.” The switch enabled Nonoo to fulfil her aspirations of becoming a sustainable brand. “I began to reimagine how a modern fashion label could work and set my sights on a model where I could create customised garments on-demand whilst avoiding the costly fashion week shows and going direct to consumer,” she says. “I am now enormously proud to work with a female-owned factory in Hong Kong, where each piece is made when the customer places an order, eliminating unnecessary waste. I believe this is the future of fashion.” It’s this type of change, that Nonoo believes embodies what power means. “To me, power means impact and impact equates to change and being to help others creates change,” she says. Similarly, the recent pandemic has meant Nonoo and her team have gone
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through another shift, as many other brands have done. She reveals it’s taught her to look at the “bigger picture”. Instead, she is looking to the brand’s “five-year plan instead of perhaps the immediate future or next six months as that is much harder to predict”. The designer has also gotten used to the copious amounts of Zoom calls we have all been experiencing due to the workfrom-home model. It’s how she’s been able to manage two launches throughout lockdown. “We have just launched the Husband Shirt Builder on our website because we’ve expanded the style to various colours, materials, and stud metals, and want every customer to be able to create their perfect combination,” she explains. “We also collaborated with Allison Fry to create a tuxedo stud for the Husband Shirt in bright summery colours. Normally, with these types of collaborations we would have met several times, but for the first time ever, it has all been done over Zoom and email.” She’s managed to do all this whilst also having just welcomed her first child – a baby boy named Leo – with husband Mikey Hess, an oil heir and businessman. While she admits it was an interesting time to give birth, she also counts her blessings for being able to spend time together as a family of three. Nonoo and her husband currently reside in New York City, but born in Bahrain, the Middle East “has a very special place in my heart,” she says reflecting on her childhood. “I have vivid memories of the souks that had stalls stuffed with reams of bright textiles: vivid reds, golds, saffron and metallic threads woven through fabrics and looking on in awe as women picked their materials to take them to dressmakers for one-off pieces and jalabiyas.” It’s a place, as well as the rest of the GCC which Nonoo believes “definitely shaped my personality for the better from my earliest years”. She still takes fashion inspiration from women in the region, particularly in the accessories department. “Women in the GCC really know how to accessorise,” she says. “Whether that be a statement pair of earrings or a gorgeous oversized handbag – they always look the part.” And it’s from these women, whether they’re from the GCC or anywhere else across the globe, that she gets her inspiration from. “My main source of motivation and creativity comes from the women I meet who are leaders in their field, and have a strong mission they consistently embody,” she says. “The modern woman wears many hats and she has so much to juggle in a day. We want to provide these women with an elegant and versatile wardrobe equipped for high-pressure business meetings as well as an active weekend with their family.” We couldn’t agree more.
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The Power of Inclusivity Entrepreneur Emma Grede is all for inclusivity at every level, championing this with her pioneering brand Good American alongside co-founder KhloĂŠ Kardashian
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
“Power, to me, means making sure every woman feels heard and included,” says entrepreneur Emma Grede. This is the exact philosophy she has taken with her trailblazing brand, Good American, an all-inclusive label she co-founded with Khloé Kardashian in 2016. “It isn’t just about fashion and trends, our brand is about creating something that helps empower women to feel their best and break down barriers.” Having studied at the London College of Fashion, and eventually working for a fashion production agency which led her to working in New York City and Los Angeles, British-born Grede came to a realisation when she was pregnant with her daughter. “I wanted to start my own company that I would be really proud of and that she would be really proud of,” Grede tells Emirates Woman. “When I started thinking about and exploring the opportunity for Good American, it was clear that so many women are ignored by the fashion industry, and I wanted to create a brand that bridges this gap.” The idea was there, then it came time to execute it. Having become connected with Kris Jenner during fashion weeks in Paris, the pair always discussed different projects they were working on which led to her casual pitch for Good American and to pin down Khloé Kardashian as her co-founder. “I pitched her in a casual way that was like, ‘Hey, I’m doing this thing, and I’d really love Khloé to be my partner,’ and she loved it but said she’d talk to Khloé,” she recalls. She flew to Los Angeles to meet with Kardashian “and the rest is history, as they say”, Grede says. From the moment they sat down together, it was clear their visions aligned creating the perfect partnership for the pioneering brand. “As soon as I started speaking, she started chiming in with stories,” Grede says. “Immediately, we were both on board with the idea that we were going to create this empowering, inclusive brand.” When launching four years ago, Good American’s focus was on denim, but at the
helm of its focus was size-inclusivity with the jean sizes from the brand ranging from American size OO to 24. That gap in the market Grede saw was revolutionary – on their first day, Good American sold $1 million worth of denim. “It showed us that there is a huge market of women who have felt ignored by fashion brands,” Grede explains, and there was appetite for more. The brand has since branched into activewear, dresses, bodysuits, trousers and most recently swimwear. Every single item that is created under the Good American umbrella is in their inclusive size range 00 to 24. “Historically, the fashion industry has been built on standards of exclusivity, catering only to specific body types, carrying a small range of sizes and representing a sometimes unrealistic body ideal,” Grede explains. “We continue to pioneer the space by listening to our customers to directly impact our design choices and product launches.” The brand has opened up a new chapter for many women, particularly many curvier women, who have been forced to shop for lower-priced, low-quality products as it’s been the only option. The success of Good American hasn’t gone unnoticed by other brands, with Grede noting how they are beginning to recognise the issue of size-exclusivity in the fashion industry. “We still have a long way to go, but we’re excited to see the industry take steps in the right direction while leading the way,” she adds. However, this hasn’t been without its obstacles. “It has been challenging to transform the way the industry views the inclusivity and body positivity movement, and understand that it’s not just a trend, it’s the future of business,” Grede explains, admitting the movement can feel “superficial” at times. “Not all retailers will put their money where their mouth is,” she candidly says. “There are a lot of costs associated: bigger sizes take extra fabric, shooting product on different sized models and more.” There was also the hurdle of getting retailers to carry all of the sizes the brand was offering. “Traditionally straight sizes are displayed in one location while plus sizes are offered in a separate section,” the Good American CEO says. “However, this went against the very core of Good American.” It’s not just been the challenge to find partners to work with that will stock their sizes, it’s also about changing the core beliefs of the industry. “I’d say the biggest hurdle is getting more partners and people to shift their mindset, and in turn, shift their behaviour,” Grede says. While it’s been tough, it’s clear they’ve made major leaps and bounds. At its core brand principles, Good American, of course, seeks to work with partners that are not only willing to showcase size in-
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clusivity, but also a diverse group of women. This is where Grede and Kardashian took matters into their own hands, going directly to the women they appeal to. “When we were in search of a diverse cast reflective of who our woman is, we launched our first-ever Open Casting for Good American’s first seasonal campaign in 2017,” she says. “The response was overwhelmingly positive and our customers were beyond excited.” Following the tremendous success of the initiative, the Good American Open Casting is now held annually. Furthermore, it’s become a whole movement. “Our Open Casting programme gives women over the age of 14 the opportunity to join our Good American #GoodSquad – a group of real women who celebrate and inspire our commitment to inclusivity, diversity, body positivity and female empowerment,” Grede says. “Our goal is to use these cornerstones to push the fashion industry to be more inclusive, diverse and real.” It’s what has become one of the most enriching parts of Grede’s journey with Good American. “Being able to impact the lives of women has been the most rewarding experience,” she says. “Whether through our Open Casting initiatives, or talking with customers on social, our customers are really the ones shaping our product offerings and the future of Good American. They keep us motivated each and every day.” While the Good American name may pertain to the USA, the brand has become a global phenomenon and is particularly wellloved in the GCC region, which is seen by Grede. “We saw that there was an appetite for Good American in the UAE and GCC region through both customer feedback and comments and messages on our social channels,” she says. “While we’ve heard from customers about how much they love our product, we have seen an incredible response to our focus on empowerment, inclusivity, diversity and body positivity. These are the true tenets of our brand and it’s clear that they’re resonating with women all over the world, especially in the UAE and GCC region!” It’s been an incredible journey for Grede – who now resides in Los Angeles with her husband and two children – to build a brand from the ground-up not only with an amazing co-founder in Kardashian, but with incredible core values. As for what’s next? We’ll all just have to wait and see.
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COMPILED: D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R
Bold & Beautiful Bvlgari’s collaboration with designer Yoon Ahn, AMBUSH is as bold as it is beautiful
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Bvlgari might have a long history of creating beautiful pieces, but they have always managed to stay relevant. Their new limited-edition collection, AMBUSH alongside Yoon Ahn is no exception. Translating the effortlessly cool attitude of the Tokyo-based brand to the Roman Maison has resulted in zesty-coloured handbags available in three new shapes: the multi-wearable Serpenti shoulder bag with chunky metallic details; the versatile Serpenti belt bag; and the heart-shaped Serpenti Minaudière. Inspired by a Tree Python of South East Asia, a species famed for its striking, artificial-looking colours, the limited edition AMBUSH x Bvlgari pieces are available in bold tones of pink, blue and green as well as minimalist-friendly hues of black and white. Shapes are a little more plush and relaxed, with softer lines and quilted leather detail that deliver an urban-glam mood. They all also feature a camouflage snakehead closure in mother-of-pearl for the black renditions and in black onyx for the coloured ones. “For this capsule collection, I wanted to express the bold and contemporary character of Serpenti,” explains Ahn. “Snakes are wondrous and fascinating creatures of nature but with Bvlgari they also became a symbol of glamour in constant evolution. Natural beauty meets human creation, all guided by a contemporary aesthetic.” The exclusive collaboration also includes accessories: a heart-shaped coin case, three different credit card holders signed with the BVLGARI AMBUSH logo and a three-coil Serpenti bracelet in coloured Nappa Leather and metallic snakehead. Having grown up with pop culture, Yoon is famed for her real-life inspired creations with a high-end touch. Below we take a closer look at her inspiration and discuss the state of the luxury market today. What was the main vision when approaching this project and where did you take inspiration from? While I was researching about Serpenti and snakes, I came across these fantastic images of the Tree Python of Southeast Asia. I couldn’t believe that there were such beauties in the wild. I would like to see them in person one day. It was essential to express the beauty of the snakes and capture it in a more approachable and lively way so I made the Serpenti head wrapped in the same leather to make it more adorable. Do you have a favourite piece from the collection? They are all my favorites! But I es-
pecially love the waist bag. It’s a 3-way bag so you can wear it as a waist bag, take out the belt, attach the strap as a shoulder bag, or just as a clutch. Growing up in the era of skate culture, how do you bring those influences to today’s luxury client? Collaboration isn’t about reconciling the differences, but rather bringing the best out of each. We both stand strong in our own identities and ethos, so I wanted see where we can head together creatively. What was the most surprising element of your collaboration with Bvlgari? Visiting Bvlgari’s factory where they produce the bags was mind-blowing. Seeing so many artisans working so closely and precisely on each part of the bag was really inspiring. Much of this new collection that will appeal to the Gen Z, what do you think luxury means today? Consumers have more power now. It’s no longer dictatorship from the top to down anymore. Certain ideologies are no longer relatable. However, beautifully made prod-
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ucts and consistency will matter to people no matter what period we live in. Personally, I think real luxury is something you can’t purchase with money like time or health. What are some of the greatest lessons you’ve learnt in business and specifically within this industry? Staying true to who I am. The global pandemic had a significant impact on the luxury market, how have you navigated the recent months of uncertainty? There are many things fashion can play into, but I think it’s important to give people dreams and joy through creation. Times are uncertain for sure, but now many old rules are out the window, so I believe it’s really time to reinvent to evolve. How do you see fashion evolving in the future? As humanities continue to evolve and cultures change, the way consumers connect to projects changes too. The biggest is that the current generation is savvier with how to connect with them and tell the story. How would you define “Serpenti Through the Eyes of AMBUSH” collection in one sentence? All the answers we need are in nature. “Serpenti through the eyes of AMBUSH…” collection is available to pre-order at Bvlgari.com and will be launched in-store from September 3.
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The Power of Performance Optimise your output daily with the best supplements, whether you’re looking for laser focus or an extra push in the gym The wellness industry is growing at an unprecedented rate, with the supplements sector expecting to hit $216 billion by 2026. Powders, tablets and gels that strive to improve performance on a physical and mental level are the latest obsession. The key to understanding what supplement you need, and if they even work, is to decipher exactly what they are. In short, supplements are used to bridge the nutritional gap, so the focus remains on a balanced diet
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rather than on unpronounceable ingredients. Over the past few years, the intimidating giant bottles of protein powder have transformed into packaging you’d happily display on your bathroom shelf, but it’s the ingredients that hit the mark. “Supplements can work, but where and when is indicated by the name itself – to ‘supplement’ and add to your existing diet and training regime,” explains Dr Paul Macnamara, Consultant – Orthopedic Surgeon, Medcare Orthopaedics & Spine Hospital,
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SZR. “They should not take priority over the meals you eat and the exercise you perform.” “Some supplements are also more effective than others, “she continues. “For example, whey protein, creatine monohydrate and fish oil have all been proven to aid goals such as muscle gain, fat loss and recovery from intense training. Detox teas, on the other hand, have no discernible benefits (other than upping your water intake) despite social media seeming awash with them.” Someone who
has put her body through a range of gruelling challenges is Egyptian marathon runner and mountaineer, Manal Rostom. Now in her fourties, she has been conscious of her diet and supplements since she was 16 years old, but it was in her thirties when she stepped up her fitness regime and started to introduce more supplements. “I’ve been taken collagen glucosamine and chondroitin supplements. I’ve taken iron supplements since I was 16 and I also take magnesium and calcium and I dedicate a whole day to the sun so my body gets as much vitamin D as possible (with SPF). I sometimes take L-Carnitine supplement that helps transport the fat to the cells and that’s the only amino acid I’m on, and your body makes it naturally anyway.” The supplements she uses are specific to her needs as a longdistance competitive runner and compliment her clean diet. With so many formulas promising to better your ability, Rostom is very aware of what products to avoid: “I don’t believe in fat burners and all these things that interfere with your hormones, mood or stress levels. Look after what you’re eating, get your vitamins in, and sleep seven to eight hours a day.” Eating habits can significantly alter your decision on whether to add supplements to your diet or not. If you’re vegetarian or vegan, for example, you need additional vitamins and protein to build muscle and boost your overall physical and mental performance. Some of the most recommended supplements include fish oil tablets that contain fatty acids known as EPA (eicospantenoic acid) and DHA (docosahexaenoic acid). They are essential for brain function and a healthy heart. There is also magnesium that tackles muscle ache; Nitrate that improves speed and performance; Vitamin K2 for strong bones and heart (ideal for those following a meat-free diet); and amino acid supplements that are known for repairing muscle tissue as well as reducing fatigue and boosting energy mid-workout. “I believe you have to find the right combination of ingredients to see any benefit, there’s no one size fits all protein blend or supplement,” says Amanda Rushforth, Dubai-based wellness content creator. “I think if you do take them consistently enough, you will, of course, benefit from the uptake in minerals or vitamins which either directly or indirectly will boost energy or performance. I find personally that I get more energy and see better results just by increasing my green juice intake.” Supplements should offer support for something that is lacking in your diet but not replace it. Thoroughly analyse your fitness goals before introducing additional enhancers into your routine and your research before you buy. Consult professionals and continue with editing your diet until you have the powerful blend of what is needed to achieve your goals be they beauty related or performance enhancing.
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THE HERO BUYS
Nourishing Protein Peruvian Chocolate Dhs134 WelleCo
Organic Lion’s Mane Extract Mushroom Dhs97 KIKI Health
Berry Burn supplement Dhs240 Bodyism
Probiotic Protein Milk Dhs192 The Nue Co. available at NET-A-PORTER
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Hot New Buys The power edit, product that deliver serious results
The diamond lift The Rodial Pink Diamond Lifting Oil is a velvety, lightweight yet powerful and fastabsorbing oil that visibly lifts, plumps and smooths the complexion. It is formulated with diamond powder and two per cent lifting complex that works to give your skin a fresh and rejuvenated look. Dhs495
The new armour
CALM IS A SUPERPOWER Aesop’s refreshing gel-based formula is full of potent yet calming ingredients including witch hazel, salicylic acid and sage leaf that leave your skin clean, decongested and soft. Dhs115 for 100ml
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Your armour when it come to fighting fine lines. Kiehl’s Powerful-Strength Dark Circle Reducing Vitamin C Eye Serum decreases the appearance of dark circles, puffiness and lines and instantly smoothens and hydrates the under-eye area to refresh the appearance of tired-looking, strained eyes. Dhs184 for 15ml
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Hair hybrid
THE POWER OF LIGHT Beauty go-to, The Light Salon in London’s Knightsbridge, has created a portable mask – the Boost Advanced LED Light Therapy Décolletage Bib – to use at home or on the plane. With the same technology used in their professional machines, the tool uses therapeutic red light and near-infrared technology to stimulate collagen production, fight spot-causing bacteria and target skin concerns like redness and wrinkles. Dhs1,895 net-a-porter.com
Celebrity hairstylist Jen Atkin’s brand The OUAI has released the ultimate hair perfume and dry shampoo hybrid in partnership with Byredo, making use of their iconic Mojave Ghost scent. The new dry shampoo targets oiliness, volumises and blends easily into all hair types. The power formula includes volcanic minerals which naturally detoxifies and cleanses the hair and Rhodiola Rosea Extract which leaves your hair looking healthy and shiny. Dhs88 Sephora
Ultimate skin rejuvenation
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The royal touch Abeille Royale Youth Oil offers the skin all the power of Guerlain-exclusive ingredients: ouessant black bee honey and exclusive royal jelly. This revolutionary formula combines the power of a serum, the richness of an oil and the freshness of a lotion leaving your skin instantly smoother, plumper, revitalised and baby-soft. Dhs602
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This gentle, yet powerful and effective glycolic acid toner by Pestle & Mortar has the perfect formula to overhaul your complexion, tighten pores and encourages skin cell renewal. The potent blend of free acid-value of 6.8% and a pH of 3.8 will ensure your skin is left glowing. Hero ingredients include: aqua, niacinamide, witch hazel and allantoin. Dhs155 ounass.ae
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Machine Power
The innovative technology delivering a healthy dose of anti-ageing
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In a world where there is a gadget to fulfil almost your every need, it’s no wonder many of us want to take a tech break. But when it comes to beauty, this desire to constantly evolve and push the boundaries of what is possible is exactly why our complexions have never looked better. We have access to everything, from LED light therapy to chic sculpting tools that target sun damage, redness, sagging skin, wrinkles, or acne without leaving your home. The use of microcurrents has shown to stimulate collagen and strengthen the skin, while exfoliating tools could enhance penetration of active ingredients into the skin. There are also handy tools that unclog pores and treat spots, as well as facial massage
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gadgets that mimic your body’s natural lymphatic system. These plug-in devices have been supercharged to such a level that you can postpone visiting a dermatologist, plastic surgeon, or an esthetician for some time. We’ve collated the best investments, designed to ensure impressive results. 01. Nano Current Skincare Device
experts. The app-controlled gadget is designed as a boot camp for your cells to encourage them to create elastin, collagen and moisture-retaining glycosaminoglycans. Easy to use, it works to delay or reverse existing signs of ageing by firming, lifting and re-densifying the complexion. It can even improve acne and scarring. Dhs2,050 Ziip Beauty
BEST FOR: First signs of ageing The phrase ‘it takes an army’ can firmly apply to Ziip Beauty’s Nano Current Skincare device as it has been developed by an expert team of electrical engineers, scientists, medical doctors, researchers and skincare
02. Pro Pore Refiner
BEST FOR: Blackheads With so many products on the market promising to mask your pores, minimising this would be even more ideal. The threestep programme, developed by skincare guru Sarah Chapman, is everything you need to decongest your skin to reveal a
brighter complexion. The suction technology mimics in-clinic extraction, minus the pain. Ultra-advanced thermo-therapy and ionic cleansing combine to warm and soften the skin while ultrasonic vibrations loosen congested pores from deep within the dermis, making the whole process quick and comfortable. Dhs615 Sarah Chapman 03. Trinity Facial Toning Device
BEST FOR: Multi-functionality Created by celebrated esthetician Carol Cole, the Trinity Facial Toning Device is ideal for those who seek a non-invasive solution. The FDA-approved microcurrent tool works overtime to improve facial contours, skin tone and tackle wrinkles. For
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best results, use for five minutes a day at least five times a week – you can go up to 20 minutes. You will notice significant changes after 90 days, from then on use it three times a week to maintain. Dhs1,035 NuFACE 04. DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro
BEST FOR: Blemishes This sci-fi looking mask may seem daunting at first use, yet it’s praise has been widespread throughout the beauty industry. Feedback includes claims of it transforming the skin after just one 3-minute session while the brand itself promises a reduction in fine lines after just two weeks thanks to the Red LED lights that stimulate the natural production of collagen. We are
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however interested in the blue light that targets acne-causing bacteria – an issue many adults still struggle with. Although it’s not a sole solution, blue light has been known to heal and prevent inflammatory blemishes. Use as an addition to your routine rather than a single solution. Dhs2,065 Dr Dennis Gross Skincare available at NET-A-PORTER 05. Gold Sculpting Bar
BEST FOR: Optimizing skincare Investing in expensive serums and creams is counterproductive if you are not fully benefiting from all the cutting-edge ingredients. Even the best of the best need a little help getting to the areas of concern and this chic
24-karat-gold sculpting tool from Jillian Dempsey is here to help. The vibrations help the creams access every inch of your complexion while simultaneously stimulating facial muscles to define all your selfie angles. Dhs716 Jillian Dempsey 06. STOP Facial Skin Renewal Device
BEST FOR: Firming Skin To retain skin firmness, you need a healthy production of two things, collagen and elastin fibres. Thanks to Tripollar, no salon visit is required as you can achieve smooth results on the face, neck, and even hands from the comfort of your home. Radiofrequency strengthens the skin, while the warming sensation helps you unwind and let
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this stylish device do all the work. Dhs956 Tripollar available at NET-A-PORTER 07. UFO 2 Smart Mask Treatment Device
BEST FOR: Express glow We all know how transformative a sheet mask can be, especially when your skin is crying out for a boost of hydration. We also appreciate that many of us don’t have the time, especially in the morning, to entertain a 20-minute ritual. Speed up the process and still reap the benefits with the UFO device that uses heat, light therapy, cooling and pulsations to help your skin absorb all the goodness in just 90 seconds. Now that’s an express service. Dhs1,000 FOREO
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Power of three
Kuwaiti sisters Sara, Nora and Dana AlRamadhan are building a beauty empire based on the premium brands industry insiders love What inspired Apotheca Beauty? We first came across the idea of distribution from a close connection in LA. A famous dermatologist wished to distribute his products in the Gulf and asked us to help him do so. We then spent a couple of months studying the market and realised there was a gap in the premium market for niche beauty brands. Our goal has been to bring these niche, speciality brands to clients in the region and offer more variety than just the mainstream brands that have been available for years. We also aimed to go one step further and not just become distributors for our brands but work together as partners. We envision ourselves as extensions of the brands we represent in the Middle East and go through great lengths to service both our brand partners and customers. Why did you feel the region needed Apotheca Beauty? Our concept is unique. We focus solely on beauty and invest significantly on our training centre, operational efficiencies, marketing campaigns, and organic growth of the brand across the region and across all applicable retailers. Secondly, we also focus on speciality niche brands, as opposed
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to just any type of beauty brand. What we mean by that is we place a heavy emphasis on the criteria of what we believe it takes for a brand to translate successfully into the region – that includes quality and growth. We focus on companies that specialise in a particular category and therefore have supreme quality in regards to what the market has to offer. Lastly, we are the consumers and users of the products we bring to market. Which brands have proven to be a hit with Middle Eastern clients? Skincare has been dominating the market this year. With peo-
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ple spending more time at home, they are paying more attention to the health of their skin. More specifically, targeted and scientifically advanced skincare products which address real skin concerns such as anti-redness, hydration, loss of elasticity, and pigmentation are in high demand. Some of our leading skincare brands include Dr Barbara Sturm, Eve Lom, Dr Lancer Skincare, Malin and Goetz, OSKIA and Sarah Chapman. We would love to know your beauty favourites, which products do you swear by? Cryoglobes – frozen, medical-grade surgical
only sweatproof and waterproof, but it lasts all day while healing your skin. Finally, we also use Lime Crime Bushy Brow Pen, and Anastasia Beverly Hills Clear Brow Gel. Are there any brands from the region we should keep an eye on? We have recently launched Summer Fridays across Sephora Middle East. This is a new brand to the region and has experienced fantastic success across the US and UK markets. Their bestselling, cult-favourite product is their multi-tasking Jet Lag Mask. We also love their CC Me Serum and gentle Amino Acid Gel Cleanser. Kevyn Aucoin is an icon amongst both makeup and skincare enthusiasts. We launched the brand online in the region during lockdown, and the response was phenomenal. OSKIA is another beautiful brand that specialises in cellular nutrition through patented micro-encapsulation and liposome technology, which are combined with high-tech bio-actives. Their hero ingredient, which we believe more people need to get to know better, is MSM – a super-power that boosts skin health, reduces fine lines, dark spots, and acne. Dr Barbara Sturm is well known but gaining traction throughout the region thanks to her potent range that works to strengthen and rejuvenate the skin at a cellular level and we have big plans for this stunning brand. Talk us through how you split the running of the business between yourselves. We are all involved in every aspect of the business to some degree – but our specific roles are clear. Nora is based between Dubai and London and focuses on the company’s inorganic growth via sourcing new brand partners, as well as the organic growth of our existing brands into new retail channels. Dana is Co-CEO with Nora and is based in Kuwait, managing our operations team in Kuwait, Dubai, and Saudi Arabia. She also oversees the B2C retail side of our business via our Apotheca boutiques in Kuwait and Dubai, in addition to our e-commerce platform. Sarah is the CFO and is based out of Kuwait. She manages our entire finance department and company financials. We complement each other, as we have a level of involvement in each other’s roles. How would you define the beauty landscape in the Middle East today? We are seeing an exciting shift taking place in the beauty landscape within our region – not just in what
steel balls used when frozen for an invigorating facial and body massage, they cool the skin and cause microcirculation, collagen production, and a reduction in pore size. We also love Dr Barbara Sturm’s Hyaluronic Serum, the EVE LOM Cleanser, OSKIA Renaissance Mask, and Dr Lancer’s new Nourish Rehydration Mask. We swear by Malin + Goetz 10% Sulfur Paste that can be applied directly onto breakouts and left to work overnight, Kevyn Aucoin Glass Glow Face & Body, Cover FX Power Play Concealer – a must for the summer as it is not
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From top: Clear Brow Gel Dhs112 Anastasia Beverly Hills; 10% Sulfur Paste Dhs105 Malin + Goetz; Hyaluronic Serum Dhs1,096 Dr Barbara Sturm; Glass Glow Spectrum Bronzer Dhs125 Kevyn Aucoin; Cryo ball Dhs480 CRYOGLOBE; Renaissance Mask Dhs310 Oskia
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clients are buying, but how they are buying and where. With people spending more time at home, clients are becoming more comfortable with shopping online and via social media. Digital shopping platforms and digital consultations are growing at an incredible speed. Skincare, supplements and skin tools have been dominating market sales. More specifically, scientifically advanced skincare products which address real skin concerns such as anti-redness, hydration, loss of elasticity, and pigmentation are leading the way. Clients are reading more, spending more time on social media, and paying more attention to their health and wellbeing. After all, beauty is an extension of your health – everyone should invest in clean, quality, effective products, as your skin is your body’s largest organ. How have you powered through the past few months of uncertainty? It has been an incredibly challenging time across all markets and industries. To survive, we have had to make quick decisions, cut back on certain expenses, and search for not-so-obvious immediate opportunities. We shifted focus to driving digital and took the time to listen to our customers’ needs. Internally at Apotheca, we view our team members as one big family. To see how people came together in support of the business and our brand partners was incredibly beautiful and inspirational. How did you stay motivated? As sisters, we challenge each other. The ability to be so transparent and communicative has been a strong asset, as it’s allowed us to grow individually, and ultimately benefit the growth of the company. The most challenging part about working with family is separating work from personal, however this has brought us even closer and motivated us to go further. What are the greatest lessons you have taken away from building a business? What we found to be more of a struggle has been ageism. Female entrepreneurs coming into the industry in their 20s or 30s and working with people who have been in the industry for many years and are in their 40s or 50s. It has been a challenge to gain credibility, and deal with certain people because of this, despite education. However, our youthfulness has actually played out to be one of our advantages and led to where we are today. We are young, driven women with our finger always on the pulse of many things that are trending. What do you feel women today want from their beauty routines? Women want honest, real results with lasting benefits. Women like us want to know that what they are putting on their skin and in their bodies has been thoughtfully sourced and will not just be a quick fix, thereafter resulting in long-
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term damage. This is why we have to believe in what we promote and take care in looking into the quality of the products. We try to carry a healthy portfolio that ranges across all aspects of beauty – skincare, cosmetics, haircare, men’s skincare, supplements, baby products, tools, and fragrance. We believe that the brands we work with are the absolute best in their category. When was the last time you felt empowered? Witnessing people across the world come together in support of one another regardless of race, religion, and nationality truly empowers us each day. Which powerful women do you look up to? We look up to women who care for others and work hard, women who put in the time to drive themselves forward. The first woman who inspired us was our mother.
“Powerful woman means… having a strong sense of identity and not allowing others to define you.” She taught us to work hard and never take anything for granted, but also how to care for our skin and overall wellbeing. She has always been passionate about health and fitness; she’s our ultimate muse. Complete this sentence, being a powerful woman means… Having a strong sense of identity and not allowing others to define you, while recognising and empowering other women alongside you. What is next for Apotheca Beauty? We are excited to further develop our online platforms and continuously look for new ways to improve – whether that is through our brand offering, delivery lead-times, presentation, or a top-tier level of customer service. We take the time to listen to feedback and see what is possible. We are also working on growing out more categories within beauty – such as baby care, men’s skincare, tools, and supplements, and wellbeing. At the moment, we spend a lot of time exploring the global market, talking to brands and curating unique assortments for our region. Shop now on apothecabeauty.com or at Nakheel Mall, Palm Jumeirah
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Omani actress and Bobbi Brown ambassador Buthaina Al Raisi, regularly shares her industry knowledge with her 5 million followers on Instagram. There’s power in knowing what works for you, so we asked Al Raisi to share her favourites Talk us through your morning routine. My morning routine is the most important. As soon as I wake up, I wash my face with a gentle cleanser that is soft on the skin, then I use a day moisturizer, and you must never forget to use an eye cream. Then I apply an SPF. What can we always find in your makeup bag? The most important product in my makeup bag is a lip gloss or balm, especially in summer when the weather is hot, and your lips can get dry easily. I apply it every hour to keep them moisturized. Are you a fan of masks? I love face masks from German brand M. Asam, particularly the grape seed extract. I feel and see an instant effect. It is amazing for balancing uneven skin tone – I can see the results as soon as I use it.
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Which three makeup products could you not live without? The Bobbi Brown Setting Spray as I like to use this before makeup to moisturize and balance the oil in my skin. It is really refreshing because it contains lavender. Another really important product for me is a foundation, and my favourite is also from Bobbi Brown – Skin Long-Wear Weightless Foundation. It gives a really nice coverage but does not feel too heavy on my skin. And finally, of course, lip gloss. I love to use lip gloss all the time but I don’t have a specific favourite one because every brand has a great lip gloss – I use a lot of different brands and love trying new brands too. Skincare wise, I adore the Renewal Oil from La Mer. It really nourishes the skin and deeply hydrates. I also love the La Mer Eye
Balm which evens out the colour around the eye area and helps reduce dark circles. The third has to be The Tonic, by La Mer – it is a toner and it balances the oil in my skin so well. How would you describe your relationship with makeup? I have always loved makeup. I adore new makeup products and have been fascinated with them since I was a child. As I built my social media presence, I began to enjoy sharing the products that I like with my followers. I feel that really helps me to connect with my audience. How has your relationship with makeup evolved? Your relationship with makeup and cosmetics changes so much over time, and as you mature. For example, I used to wear very bold, bright coloured makeup, and my winged eyeliner was much more dra-
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Clockwise from left: Coffein Thickening Shampoo Dhs210 Ahuhu; The Eye Balm Intense Dhs861 La Mer; Setting Spray Dhs147 Bobbi Brown; The Renwal Oil Dhs445 La Mer; Resveratrol Premium Smoothing Face Mask Dhs96 M. Asam; Skin Long-Wear Weightless Foundation Dhs189 Bobbi Brown
matic than it is now. I used to wear lots of layers of foundation, and be a bit more daring with colours, now I focus more on neutral shades and earthy colours. Let’s talk fragrance. What are you loving at the moment? I adore perfumes and am very passionate about fragrance. So much so, I have created my own perfume When the Rain Falls, which I am pleased to say has been received with a lot of positivity and excitement. I put my heart and soul into it, it’s elegant and sophisticated with a strong undertone – like my personality. How do you choose your evening fragrance? In general, I don’t go for light perfumes – even my day perfumes have a personality and heaviness. In terms of evening perfumes, I love my own perfume but I also love a com-
pletely different one called: Sehr Al Luban ﺳﺤﺮ اﻟﻠﺒﺎن, – it contains Frankincense which is a classic, much-loved scent in the region. Talk us through your hair routine? I love being asked about hair because for me, hair is the femininity of a woman. I take great care of my hair and often do treatments almost daily. I get a lot of questions about my hair and my first top tip is regarding colouring; in fact, I don’t like to colour my hair at all and I avoid using anything with chemicals. Since I was a child I have not used anything containing chemicals on my hair. I use a Caffeine Shampoo from organic German brand Ahuhu. This keeps my hair strong and thick, and stops it from falling. I love using natural treatments for my hair and I make my own tonics from natural
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ingredients such as egg, Henna, honey, banana, lavender and rosemary. What are your ultimate makeup tips? My top makeup tip is to prepare your skin – if you prepare your skin in the right way, your makeup will be always flawless. My second tip is that after contouring, highlighting and using blush, use one big clean big brush and pass it all over the skin – this will give the best blend. Another tip I suggest is to ice your skin. Everyone has ice in the house and it can help close pores up – try it! What’s the most unusual item in your makeup bag? My eyelash curler because I carry it everywhere with me – people feel it is strange to keep it on me all the time but because my lashes are so straight I have to keep curling them throughout the day.
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The Beauty Shelf
One half of powerhouse brand Ralph & Russo, Tamara Ralph lets us in on some of her skincare secrets C O M P I L E D B Y: D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R
infused with sea-sourced renewing energies. Plus, I love that it’s a light gel – it’s so refreshing and not too heavy on my skin.
Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser Dhs60 La Roche-Posay
I find cleansers can often make your skin feel quite parched if they are too intense, but this one is so soothing.
T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial Dhs294 Drunk Elephant
This product is magical, and when I can’t get in to see my facialist, it allows me to have essentially the same experience but at home. It instantly improves my skin texture and tone, and just makes me feel and look radiant.
Gentle Cleansing Oil Dhs134 Sulwhasoo
This oil is so decadent and silky. It features a blend of antioxidantrich apricot kernel oil and tangerine peel extract, and because of this it also smells delicious. Black Rose Precious Face Oil Dhs785 Sisley-Paris
Alexandria II Dhs1,235 Xerjoff
My signature scent. I was given this as a gift from a dear client of mine years ago, and I’ve been wearing it ever since. I love the oud in it, as I love heavy perfumes – and a little bit lasts such a long time.
This oil is full of amazing nourishing ingredients, including black rose extracts, plum and camelina oils, and the essential oils of magnolia and Bulgar-
Celestial Black Diamond Lifting and Firming Mask Dhs672 111SKIN for four masks
Rosewater Balancing Mist Dhs110 Jurlique
A good mist is an absolute must in my skincare regimen – any excuse for more hydration! I spritz it on my face whenever I feel like I need to refresh or brighten up my skin. Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Dhs276 Estée Lauder
This product has a secret ingredient called ChronoluxCB Technology that promotes the skin’s natural nightly repair process, so I wake up with more youthfullooking skin. I swear by this and also love the Advanced Night
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Repair Recovery Mask-In-Oil too, combining them together for maximum effect. Hyaluronic Serum Dhs407 Barbara Sturm
I am quite obsessed with Barbara Sturm, her entire range is amazing, but this serum in particular works so well with my skin. It gives it a boost when I need it the most and keeps my face looking both firm and smooth. When I’m without this serum my skin is instantly dryer.
The founders of 111SKIN are dear friends of mine, but it’s not because of that fact that I love their brand – it is a total gamechanger. This triple-formula hydrogel mask is split into three parts to deliver the specific ingredients to different parts of your face, where it’s most needed, so it’s just as customised as well as effective as an actual inspa (or in-office) treatment.
Genaissance de la Mer The Serum Essence Dhs2,510 La Mer
You cannot go wrong with La Mer, but this serum is truly next level. It makes my skin look and feel so rejuvenated, as if I’ve just come back from a relaxing holiday. The Moisturizing Cool Gel Cream Dhs785 La Mer
This cream is restorative. It contains a healing elixir that is signature to the brand, which is further
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ian rose. It smells like a dream and works like one as well. I put two full pips on my face overnight and sleep with it, or wear it while I’m busy around the house for an hour or so. After washing it off, your skin is so soft and dewy.
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PROMOTION
Luxury, Delivered. A L L T H E LU X U RY YO U N E E D, J U ST A C L I C K AWAY
Always one step ahead, Mall of the Emirates has launched a new online shopping platform, Trends At Your Doorstep, designed to deliver luxury effortlessly to your door. Whether you want to invest in a forever piece from Cartier, or browse the new FW20 collections from Burberry, Coach, Bvlgari, Roberto Coin or Jimmy Choo you’ll have more choice than you can imagine, just a click away. Premium timepieces and new generation smart-
watches from Tag Heuer, Piaget and JaegerLeCoultre are carefully photographed so you can view each piece in perfect detail. Complimentary, contactless delivery ensures you also stay safe every time you shop. Additionally you will also receive SHARE points to spend across Majid Al Futtaim’s wide portfolio of brands. The MOE complimentary delivery service offered to the Trends brands takes 24 hours in Dubai and 48 hours for other cities within the UAE.
To begin shopping visit www.malloftheemirates.com/trends2020
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The Perfect Smile
Never under estimate the power of the perfect smile. If you prefer perfecting what you already have to replacing it, Dr Maysoon is the go-to in the industry for a naturally flawless finish
WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
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What do your first 30 mins of the day look like, your morning routine? My morning routine is quite simple. When I wake up I brush my teeth, do a few stretching exercises then have my breakfast before I leave for work. In your role you have to have the ability to wear a lot of ‘hats’ in terms of understanding marketing, working with patients directly and of course the dentistry itself. What do you think are your natural strengths and which part do
you enjoy most? Most of the patients who have written me reviews have complimented me on my communications skills and on the way I’ve made them feel relaxed so I would say my communication skills are definitely one of my big strengths. I love to sit with my patients and take my time when explaining their dental challenges and treatment options. And of course, the dentistry itself comes naturally to me after many years of experience and the
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IMAGES: GETTY AND SUPPLIED; FOR MORE DETAILS CONTACT DR TOSUN DENTAL CLINIC +971 43 435 051 OR @DOCTORMAYSOON
Dr Maysoon
option and we can achieve so much with it. It allows us to transform the patient’s smile whilst still maintaining the uniqueness and natural shape of the teeth. On average how long can someone expect to spend going through this process? It really varies from person to person, depending on the position of their teeth to begin with. Teeth straightening can take any time from 3 to 24 months. Composite bonding and composite veneers can take 1 or 2 appointments. How do you aid the patient through the process? I always offer support, advice and encouragement throughout their treatment. Sometimes I would show them photos of their progress to increase their motivation and this ensures the time it takes to achieve the final result is minimised. Can you describe the process for us in terms of stages? The first appointment would involve a dental examination to check that the teeth and gums are healthy before embarking on any treatment. It’s essential to check if the patient is suitable for Invisalign and discuss a treatment plan accordingly. The second appointment would be to take photographs as well as impressions of the teeth and send them to the US where the aligners will be manufactured. After hundreds of courses I have attended and conreceiving the customised tinue to attend. I believe the best marketing aligners, the third appointtool is word of mouth, and the majority of new ment would involve placpatients that visit me are through recommening attachments on some dations from current patients. of the teeth and fitting the Have you seen any trends in terms of cosmetfirst pair of aligners. After ic dentistry changing in recent years and if so this, the patient will typiwhat? Treatments such as composite bondcally visit the dentist every ing (or cosmetic bonding) and composite 4 weeks to check progveneers have become more popular recently ress and make any necesbecause they are relatively quick and consersary adjustments until the vative treatment options that enhance your treatment is complete. smile. You can do so much with composite bonding, such as changing the shape, the Who for you has the perfect smile? Anyone length and texture of teeth. Most of the time who has straight, bright, healthy teeth and there is no drilling or injections involved. gums has a perfect smile! The other trend is teeth straightening This year has proven challenging for many using clear aligners such as Invisalign. More business and leaders. If you face a challenge adults are opting for these nearly invisible – what have you found is personally the most aligners to straighten their teeth as they can successful way to overcome it? I try to think wear the aligners with more confidence and positively and focus on my mental and are able to remove them for important events. physical health. Things somehow end up falling into place when you do this. We canTell us about how you create the perfect smile and would you always suggest trying to not control challenges and problems that come in our way, but we can try to change perfect what you naturally have before turnour mindset towards them. ing to other more extreme solutions? For me the perfect smile is enhancing what someone Do you have any pre-bedtime rituals? I try to is naturally born with rather than destroying avoid bright light and screen time an hour their teeth to achieve or copy someone else’s before I go to bed. I always make time for my smile. This can be done in many ways deskin routine before I sleep as well. I’ve repending on the patient’s goals, teeth, budget cently started spraying lavender on my pillow and time frame. I would always advise my just before I sleep, lavender helps me relax. patients to opt for the most conservative opWhat effect has social media played in the tion if possible. For example, if someone has cosmetic dentistry industry and which chancrowded teeth or a narrow smile then orthnel do you feel will be strongest in future? Soodontic treatment would be the least invacial media has made dentists more competisive option. I think Invisalign is a fantastic tive in a good way. Dentists can now share
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their work in terms of what can be achieved through photos and videos. Followers can engage with dentists and ask questions making the idea of treatment more accessible. Social media has definitely increased awareness amongst the public with regards to the importance of having a healthy, beautiful smile. Many influencers are documenting their smile makeover journeys on social media and sharing it with their followers. This has increased demand for cosmetic dentistry. There are filters on Instagram and TikTok that make your teeth appear whiter and straighter which inevitably makes people think twice about their smile. If you were not working in the role you are now, which other role would you choose career-wise? I would have probably chosen a career in the culinary world. I’m very passionate about food and cooking! This issue is The Power Issue. What is powerful to you? Power is good health. Without a healthy body and mind we cannot achieve anything. Being powerful is being forgiving.
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The Vanguard WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
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Elizabeth von der Goltz, Global Buying Director of NET-A-PORTER has one of the best eye’s in the business. As the woman who knows what you’ll be wearing season’s ahead of you even seeing it, we spoke to von der Goltz about The Vanguard, NET-A-PORTER’s programme to nurture emerging talent
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
Jia-Jia Zhu
Tell us about how the concept of The Vanguard came about? We have always been dedicated to supporting and nurturing young and emerging talent, and the Vanguard programme has enabled us to provide meaningful, structured business support and guidance in the early stages of each brand’s development. As a global online retailer, we have the expertise to nurture and develop brands, not to mention a sense of responsibility. As such, our Vanguard programme creates the perfect ecosystem for new fashion talents, providing cross-departmental mentorship, practical advice and marketing support to enable them to develop a long-lasting business.
Which brands are you particularly proud that you and the team have discovered and how do you usually source new brands? Since launching The Vanguard in September 2018, it’s been an incredibly rewarding process to witness the young talented brands that we’ve brought into the programme to grow and lay the groundwork for enduring success. We’re incredibly proud looking back over the seasons. For SS20 Christopher John Rogers was hugely exciting, from his debut collection with us to his runway show. There aren’t many young designers doing statement, couturelike clothing at the moment. Looking at the craftsmanship, the silhouettes, the volume – he’s been daring and taken risks. It really caught our eye and our customers loved it. Gauchère was incredibly popular too, the designer, Marie-Christine Statz’s effort-
less shapes and easy colour palette make it perfect for anyone looking to invest in pieces both timeless and yet original. Peter Do was a highly-anticipated new designer and brand on site for us. He has an impressive background, as a FIT graduate with stints under Phoebe Philo at Celine, he has such a sophisticated approach to design and uses beautiful craftsmanship and tailoring. We also saw great success from brands such as BITE Studios whose focus is very much on sustainable design, a key focus for us as a business via our NET SUSTAIN platform. We discover and source new designers in a variety of ways, but Instagram proves to be a key tool. Instagram and fashion are now so closely linked. It has essentially been the democratisation of our industry and has impacted fashion in so many ways. It is a huge source of discovery for us and for so many. It is an incredible platform from which to seek inspiration and discover new talent. Plus it enables us to see what our customers are loving. It’s quite astonishing when you think about the number of new brands we’ve scouted through the platform. However we do still search and discover new brands via shows, showrooms, word of mouth and fringe fashion weeks. What has been the focus for The Vanguard for FW20 in terms of trends? For the brands within the Vanguard programme it is less about trends and more about ensuring that they have a signature design DNA that shines through. We were drawn to Jia’s unique healing crystal jewellery which ties in with the wellness trend we have seen surge. Art Club dresses are incredibly wearable and versatile, two things our customer is really considering when she makes a purchase at the moment. We also love the focus on art within her collections. And MINJUKIM has such an experimental approach to design, marrying traditional tailoring with contemporary elements and an exceptional sense of colour. Which regions are you seeing designers emerge from that is new and interesting globally? We are seeing some interesting new talent emerge from regions like Australia with Christopher Esber and Art Club, Russia with recently launched Katia Alpha, Belgium with Meryll Rogge and Renaissance Renaissance from Lebanon. What do you look for in a brand in terms of DNA and attention to detail? Each season we
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Dress Dhs1,227 ARTCLUB; Necklace Dhs6,828 Jia Jia
look for designers that have a distinct DNA and aesthetic, with a unique brand story that we feel will really elevate the programme and resonate with our customers. Young brands have to show authenticity in their designs and a directional brand perspective. It is so key for any new designer to develop a signature that they can stay true to, whilst continuing to evolve and develop over time. Ultimately, we are looking for brands that we believe have the potential to grow into meaningful businesses with a global resonance. The brands we launch each season have been selected because of the impact we think they’re going to have on the fashion landscape. Each are happy that the NET-APORTER teams can be supportive and helpful every step of the way to help them grow.
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WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R
The Power
of
Integrity Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo have successfully created a powerhouse super brand, through word of mouth, integrity and a fierce attention to detail. Following a chance encounter in 2004, Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo founded the now powerhouse couture brand Ralph & Russo. The first British design house in almost a century to join the prestigious Chambre Syndicale in 2013 (the French regulatory body that certifies what is and isn’t haute couture) and the first British brand to show at Paris Couture Week in 2014 alongside industry giants like Chanel, Elie Saab and Givenchy. Boasting a loyal and often royal client base – including Princess Ameerah alTaweel of Saudi Arabia, Angelina Jolie and Natalie Massenet, their appeal spans every demographic of client. “We believe what sets us apart are our fundamental pillars as a house; our mission has always been to offer approachable luxury, exceptional craftsmanship, creativity and highly personalised customer service,” says Michael Russo. Working out of a seven-floor, 19th-century townhouse in London’s Mayfair, the brand represents everything couture stands for, which is not surprising given that Tamara is the fourth generation in her family to work in couture. Every piece is constructed entirely by hand that can take thousands of hours to finish and with only one version of each garment per country, there is that crucial element of exclusivity. They work with some of best artisans in the world and use centuries-old techniques when it comes to crystal-glass beading, rose-gold foiling and use of luminous fabrics, yet the pieces feel relevant to what the world’s most affluent women want to wear. According to
reports, the company was said to be growing by 400 per cent every year and from the beginning had a stronghold on the Middle Eastern market, but they’re not stopping just at couture. They introduced ready to wear in 2017 and have a line of accessories, including stilettos with ornamental filigree leaves spiralling up the heel, and a range of bags called Alina that can be made of mink, calf or python and feature feather-shaped handles. In addition to their stores in Monte Carlo and Paris, the duo has opened further boutiques in Dubai and Doha. Now they’re on a mission to transform Ralph & Russo into a lifestyle brand with perfume and beauty, eyewear and, eventually, menswear. However, some of their plans had to be put on hold due to the global pandemic, but that hasn’t prevented the duo from innovating. With autumn/winter 2020 couture shows forced to go online due to lockdown rules, Tamara and Michael decided to create an avatar to present their latest collection. Named Hauli – which is a traditional Swahili name, synonymous with strength and power – the digital concept presented a new challenge. Not only did the entire team have to work remotely and rely on video calls to go through sketches, but they also had to rely on their rich archive of fabrics as shipping restrictions in Europe made it difficult to source material. Then came the time to digitise every detail of the collection before finally unveiling their mesmerising avatar-styled pieces that look almost as good as the real thing.
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Respecting the heritage of couture yet always looking forward, we speak to the design duo about how they coped in these uncertain times, the goals they’ve set for the future and what they have learnt from working with their Middle Eastern clientele. How would you define Ralph & Russo? Michael: We are a global luxury lifestyle brand with an offering that encompasses couture, ready-to-wear and accessories, all designed, created and tailored for the modern, independent woman. We believe what sets us apart are our fundamental pillars as a house; our mission has always been to offer approachable luxury, exceptional craftsmanship, creativity and highly personalised customer service. How has the brand overcome 2020 and its challenges? Michael: Like most brands, when the pandemic began to take hold, we had to pivot quickly and rethink our overall business strategy. We scaled back some of our projects to focus on only the most essential initiatives, and redirected the majority of our efforts to focus on the digital space and making this the primary means of communicating with our clientele, as well as our supporters. While digital and e-commerce were always important to the brand, we knew it was crucial to invest much more time and energy, as well as financial resources into this platform, to make it as engaging and user-friendly as possible. Making digital a priority will be our new norm, and incorporating this into your larger strategy opens the door not just for creativity, but
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Michael Russo and Tamara Ralph
for the entire world to enjoy and be a part of your brand. Tamara: With our clients, in particular, the limitations with travel have led us to trial new ways of interacting with them during the quarantine period. As we haven’t been able to host them at our Maison in London or Paris or travel to them for appointments, we have instead been conducting e-fittings and appointments via Zoom or a similar platform. While it’s certainly different, it has worked well. Every client is different of course, and you have to respect their wishes during a trying time like this. Michael: The process along with the overarching situation globally has taught us quite a lot about how to move forward. We have learnt how to properly take a step back, assess a huge challenge like this one has been, look at the bigger picture, and quickly shift our approach. This is a lesson that will stay with us, and which, to be truthful, was much needed. Our industry moves so quickly, almost too quickly, and if there is any silver lining to all of this, it’s that it has forced us to re-evaluate what works and what does not, what is dated and what is the future, as well as what’s important and what isn’t. How do you continue to grow without resorting to advertising? Michael: We are a brand that grew organically, largely via word-ofmouth (and, of course, plenty of hard work), and I think that is in large part due to the pillars I mentioned before, which remain at the very core of the house. Customer service and our relationships with our clients
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is paramount. Every single individual who steps through our doors (be it physically or, currently, virtually) is accepted warmly as part of the Ralph & Russo family, and we truly listen to each client and what they have to say and what they are looking for.
“I wanted to create a collection that would allow people to take refuge in fantasy and wonder, and encourage them to keep dreaming of beautiful things.” And while it certainly shouldn’t be, I think this kind of service has become quite rare in the industry. Beyond this, exceptional craftsmanship is integral to our brand, and something we’ve become known for. And while we continue to evolve as a brand, we do so in a way that remains true to who we are and what we stand for. I think that all
of these factors combined are what keep our clients – and brand supporters generally – coming back to us, and what also helps to attract potential new clients as well. Which pieces have been your favourite? Tamara: Gosh – I don’t think we could ever choose, we truly love each and every piece for a myriad of different reasons. They all represent individual parts of our journey and different memories. You have many loyal clients in the Middle East, does your approach differ when it comes to dressing women from the region? Tamara: Our client in the Middle East really understands luxury, and has a big appreciation for detail, beauty and design. They love getting dressed up, aren’t afraid to be bold, and they love celebrating, so this certainly informs how we approach dressing our clientele within this region – which is a lot of fun! Which references have you taken from working with your Middle Eastern clients? Tamara: Absolutely, our clients inspire me all of the time and this is especially true for our Middle Eastern clientele. They love to dress up, be bold, and make a statement, which is something I really love about them. Talk us through your most recent collection, where did the inspiration come from? Tamara: The current state of the world motivated me to slow down and to reflect this season, pushing me to reconsider the inspiration and concept I initially had in mind for this collection, which no longer seemed or felt quite right. I felt I had to allow myself this moment of peace, and relish in the rare opportunity to spend time contemplating the direction I wanted to go in with this collection, and the message I wanted it to convey to the world. This led me to think about the far-reaching, limitless beauty of our natural world and all it has to offer, which serves as my inspiration for this season. I wanted to create a collection that would allow people to take refuge in fantasy and wonder, and encourage them to keep dreaming of beautiful things during these especially trying times. In thinking about how to unveil a collection during these times, I immediately thought of the digital realm and how we could explore this as a dimension in a way that made sense for couture. Artificial intelligence as a dimension is something I have always been interested in exploring, especially within the fashion space, and the recent developments in the world, and subsequent limitations, made me feel now is the right time to do so. While avatars in and of themselves might not be new, I don’t feel it’s something that has been fully realized as of yet within couture as a business, given its inherent nature of old-world craftsmanship, techniques and level of detail. Our avatar, Hauli, serves as both our model and
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our brand muse, so she has come to mean much more to us than simply a virtual model. Bearing a traditional Swahili name that is synonymous with strength and power, Hauli was inspired by and is an embodiment of the spirit of beautiful and inspirational women changing lives in all four corners of the world. She represents the brand and all of the values that we stand for. She is the ultimate modern woman, fusing both old and new, elegance and strength, and stands with the brand as a positive force for change. Are there any new techniques or details you’ve enjoyed implementing recently? Tamara: Of course, we are always experimenting with different techniques, processes and details with each new collection, and playing more with digital prints and effects specifically. To echo the bridging of the digital and the natural world with our autumn-winter 2020/2021 couture collection, for instance, we created a special digitally printed design this season to use on both our taffeta and tweed pieces that involved distorting and blurring florals like watercolours; it makes these prints both rooted in the world as we know it and unique. How do you define luxury today? Michael: To us, luxury is defined by quality as well as experience. Luxury is for the individual that wants to invest in excellence, and just as craftsmanship plays a key role within luxury, so does experience. The client should feel at the absolute forefront of the brand’s world. Do you reflect on all Ralph & Russo has achieved to date? Tamara: Thank you for your kind words, it still feels surreal at times to hear something like that! Michael: It has been an incredible journey, and, as you said, it all happened quite fast. So much has happened in the space of ten years. However, regardless of how much we have achieved and how far we have come, all of the individual big moments and major milestones for the brand are not lost on us. We are forever grateful for all of the support we receive daily from our clients, media, our celebrity supporters, our friends and family and, of course, our wonderful team without whom none of this would have ever been possible. It’s so important to remember where you came from and how you started and to celebrate each and every achievement. What does expansion look like for Ralph & Russo? Michael: It was always our plan to evolve Ralph & Russo into a luxury lifestyle brand, extending beyond apparel and accessories, and into other spheres, such as home and interiors, beauty, and so on. Whilst, understandably, some of these launches have had to be put on hold or slightly delayed, we are still working towards this plan and hope to have exciting news to share in the coming months. Beyond category expansion, retail growth is also at the forefront of our brand
strategy, and we hope to also eventually have a brick-and-mortar location in all of our key markets globally – with quite a few conversations already on the go. Our New York store, and our first ever boutique in the US, was originally meant to open earlier this year, but of course, had to be pushed back due to the current situation. However, we hope to be able to unveil this store later this year or early next – fingers crossed! What are your goals for 2021? Tamara: A major focus for us will be moving forward and towards our vision of becoming a global luxury lifestyle brand, but in a way that is more thoughtful, considered and sustainable. It’s crucial not only for our industry
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but for the world generally. Michael: Also, with the pandemic teaching us so much about ourselves and our individual needs, I think it’s fair to say a goal for both of us is to try to achieve more balance in our lives, outside of the brand. This is ‘The Power Issue’ – when was the last time you felt empowered? Michael: We are so fortunate to be able to say we feel empowered every day to be the best version of ourselves, and to put our best foot forward as a company. Even during this very difficult period of time, we have proven – to ourselves as well as our company – to be an agile brand, quickly pivoting our plans to evolve with the times, believing in each other and our team.
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Toul – Rose Gold/ Black Diamond ‘Selm’ Ring Dhs13,811
The Power of Identity WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
Jewellery designer Nadine Kanso never expected to have her own brand. A desire to express the true Arabic identity celebrating the culture and heritage of the region culminated in the incomparable Bil Arabi 118 emirateswoman.com
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“It’s a beautiful world and something I consider myself lucky to do,” Nadine Kanso says proudly of her creative role. “There is no struggle when I wake up in the morning to go to work because I do what I love.” Interestingly, like many of those who are creatives and entrepreneurs, it’s a career path Kanso never saw herself taking. Having founded Bil Arabi – which in English means ‘In Arabic’ – brand in 2006, her brainchild was the result of an evolving passion for jewellery and art, as well as the desire to be able to outwardly express her passion for her own Arabic culture. The designer now creates a range of pieces – many of which are bespoke – using Arabic calligraphy in different designs to fit rings, necklaces, earrings and more. No collection she creates is ever the same, as Kanso is always “trying to push the boundaries”, yet the one consistency in the brand is about celebrating the Arab culture. “It represents my Arab identity – my pride, my culture, my heritage, my language,” she tells Emirates Woman. With her career background in design-related fields and stints of living in Canada and Czech Republic, it was when Kanso moved to Dubai with her family that she found herself dedicating all her time to photography after dabbling in photo-journalism. Eventually this love for photography extended to jewellery design after an exhibition she held in Dubai entitled ‘Meen Ana’ – or in English ‘Who I Am’. “It was about the Arab identity, the Arab culture and who we are as Arabs,” she explains. “Bil Arabi was born from there.” It was also a response to the events of 9/11, which Kanso notes created a “big shift” in how Arabs were perceived. “I wanted to change that perception and by wearing our own letters and initials in Arabic with pride and showing the identity of who we are in a good way,” she says. The “natural artistic progression” for the making of Bil Arabi started with one ring Kanso began wearing. “People then started asking me about doing more,” she says and the brand was born. While Kanso had everything covered for the design and creative process of the brand, the business side of things was a bit more challenging. After receiving some help from her husband initially, Kanso hired an accountant to help her with the numbers of the business. “I had to start using Excel and figuring out numbers, which I had no clue about – and I still have no clue,” she jokes. “I had to hire an accountant that helped me throughout.” While she does admit it would have been useful to know more about structure when it came to business, it’s not something she dwells on. “I have no regrets
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with that because I believe in life we have to go through our own journey and to learn day-byday especially when it’s something new,” she says. “There’s a big pleasure when you do so.” It’s now been over 14 years since Bil Arabi’s inception and Kanso has continually been able to develop and reinvent the brand with each collection she produces and this is through her sheer determination to produce creative and one-of-a-kind pieces. When she first began designing jewellery, she was the first one to work with Arabic letters and it garnered major attention. “People really related to it,” she recalls. “We’ve managed to adapt and develop with how I design things and with the words I use and the colours I use. There was always something different and something new to offer. I would say it was a classic, yet chic, yet contemporary approach.” Constantly trying to push the boundaries, Kanso’s approach to business is simple – it’s all about the art of design. For her, the design process includes the calligraphy of Arabic letters, which she then takes and cuts, enlarging them or reworking their typography to create a form which will work with the design she has in mind. It’s not al-
ways about creating a collection that must sell, it’s about the creative process to reach an end result that she envisions working for the Bil Arabi brand. “I actually have a collection that is totally unwearable, but the pieces are more forms of art,” she admits. “This is what I try to do. I don’t always make something that’s purely sellable – I push myself to make something different.” It’s certainly working as not only has Bil Arabi become increasingly popular with consumers, the brand’s pieces are also a huge hit with celebrities including the likes of Kylie Minogue, Zahar Hadid, Kendall Jenner and more. She’s also collaborated with some incredible high-end brands including Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Bernardaud. Most recently she collaborated with Gaga Milano to produce a watch. However, this ever-growing popularity has resulted in the copying of some of her designs, but instead of hinderance it simply inspires the Lebanese designer to be more creative. “We have had a lot of people copying our work so this is where creativity comes into play,” she says. “This is the most annoying part because people say Arabic is not mine –
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Toul – Yellow Gold ‘Hob/ Love’ Ring Dhs8,169; Toul – Yellow Gold/Diamond ‘Hob/Love’ Ring Dhs13,811
of course I don’t own the Arabic language and calligraphy, but when other designs come too close to what we do, this is where it becomes challenging. It pushes me towards creating different things – to go three steps ahead and elevate the brand more and more.” This philosophy on creativity and business is what power means to Kanso. “I find power or strength in how I deal with things. You need to be patient, you need to be balanced, you need to be positive and you need to be reasonable.” It’s a combination of all these aspects that enables a person to move forward, she believes. “These actually make you powerful because when you see things coming your way and you don’t like them, you need to know how to move forward,” she says. “In life, you need to be able to know how to jump over barriers.”
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
dia landscape over the last 10 years. In a world where staying relevant to your followers is key, Al Khalifa has managed to do this with style and integrity working with the brands that she feels fit her own personal brand. From walking down the catwalk with Dolce & Gabbana in 2018, to collaborating with designers like Chloe and Jimmy Choo, Al Khalifa is an expert when it comes to collaboration. Emirates Woman recently caught up with Al Khalifa to discuss all things brand collaboration and the power behind it, what she feels has changed about the online space in the last 11 years and the hurdles she has overcome along the way.
ON COLLABORATING WITH BIG BRANDS…
T
oday, we are more connected than ever. Globally we can access a wealth of everyone from designers to influencers though the power of a DM and so a new era of collaboration has evolved. One of the first in the region to adapt to the rise in social media from the outset, Sheikha Dana Al Khalifa launched TheOverdressed 11 years ago – and has since collaborated with a wealth of key luxury brands. First inspired to launch her blog in 2009 due to feeling “lost”, the decision changed Al Khalifa’s life forever. With over a decade’s experience in the industry, the blogger and entrepreneur has seen the drastic change in the dynamics that has happened in the social me-
It has been an honour to work with such powerhouse brands. The relationships came about very personally. I like to take a natural approach to things, so dealing with powerhouse brands has been easy and a pleasure because I work with people whom I can now call friends.
WHAT THE POWER OF COLLABORATION MEANS… To be able to share some-
thing I like, with an audience willing to listen is honestly something I am still getting used to. I like bringing to the forefront beautiful things that might have gone amiss because it is not a mega brand. I love niche brands, I like artisanal, to be able to keep these “metiers” alive by bringing to the forefront brands that use them heavily is quite powerful.
THE EMPOWERING SIDE OF BEING A CREATOR… I am a serial sharer,
The Power of Collaboration Having successfully worked with many key luxury brands globally, Sheikha Dana Al Khalifa is an expert in the power of collaboration
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it brings me joy to make introductions that people benefit from. I thrive on people telling me, “I still use my bag from the pop up you did of that cool brand.” THE INSPIRATION… I started because I was lost, my life had changed 180 degrees. One minute I was in London working in fine jewellery, studying for my LLM [Master of Law] and living a fast-paced life. I had pangs of homesickness in the midst of it all and was desperate to come back to Bahrain. So, I came back and my life was like a blinking cursor at the beginning of a blank document. I had to do something for my soul, other than my job as a newly graduated junior associate at a law firm. THEOVERDRESSED 2.0 The OverDressed Pavilion in 2014, collaborating and collating together with incredible jewellery brands. It has been a lot of fun and a lot of work. I learned so much in a short period of time, and continue to do so. But one of my most important moments was when my previous boss walked into the Pavilion and said, “You look much happier doing what you love.”
HOW BLOGGING HAS CHANGED…
It lost a lot of the authenticity that came with ‘blogging’; nobody – including myself – writes anymore. The online space has taken a very commercial turn and not for the better. Since COVID-19 hopefully a lot of the funds previously used on influencer visibility will be funnelled to make businesses more sustainable to support local producers of craft. THE ADVICE… That you don’t have to fit in a box. THE MOTIVATON… I am driven and determined to create the life I want to live provided by me, for me and my family. My father has worked – and still works – incredibly hard, and from him I learned that success is small successes, little silver linings and many failures. From my husband I learned the intricacies of dealing with people and creating proper financial structures, which I am still very bad at to his utter dismay! ON OVERCOMING HURDLES… My first major hurdle was starting TheOverdressed. I had no idea where I was going, or what I was going to do, or how I was going to do it, I just knew I wanted to do something different. The second hurdle was starting TheOverdressed Pavilion, it was such a thrilling yet scary moment. There were times I wondered why I was doing this, and those were the moments that were heavy and demanded a lot from me mentally. My third hurdle is on its way – stay tuned! THE FUTURE…COVID-19 shed a lot of light on things I felt were stagnant. Stay tuned – I am working on something exciting. ON WHAT POWER MEANS… Power is influence, respect, kindness and generosity.
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Sheikha Dana Al Khalifa
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Amy Roko
ing deeply religious, and secondly being wildly silly (i.e. clownery). I just want to show you can still wear a niqab and be comedic, love fashion and sports if that floats your boat. Niqabis are regular people that just choose to dress differently.
ON HER HOPES FOR CHANGE… I would love to see
continued efforts towards equality. There’s a lot of growth within the GCC towards this vision. More women in leading positions means a more thorough outcome for members of society. That’s what we’re working towards. ON 2020… It’s been an okay year for me. I’m still creating and posting content, and I guess that’s the beauty of social media – my work happens, for the most part, on my phone. Personal life is good – I have a little bit more time to talk to the people I’m closest to now.
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my Roko isn’t here to be judged by anyone. Having garnered a huge social media following since first emerging on Instagram in 2015, the Saudi Arabian native has become a beacon for many women as she continues to break down stereotypes surrounding females from the GCC region and the niqab. What exactly inspired her to resist stereotypes put upon her for being a niqabi is ironically the exact reason she did it. “Society’s initial resistance towards me inspired that,” she tells Emirates Woman. “I couldn’t imagine that just being myself and who I am would garner pushback. I don’t like being dictated to. I really do what I want, so I started showing people how I live my life to the fullest and based on my rules.” It’s safe to say Roko – who chooses to keep her identity secret using this pseudonym instead – is a force to be reckoned with, sharing her comedic sketches which challenge the status quo with her 1.4 million followers on Instagram. Five years into her social media career, Roko has worked on some huge campaigns with notable brands like Benefit Cosmetics, Destination KSA, Levi’s and more. It’s evident the only way is up for this social media sensation. EW recently caught up with the 28-year-old to discuss everything from her sudden social media growth, what misconceptions there are surrounding the niqab and the burqa and what 2020 has been like for her in lockdown. Roko also revealed what it’s like living, as she describes it as a “double life”, and what exactly power means to her.
ON ADVICE FOR SUCCESS…
Social Strength
“Do you know that gut feeling that you have, that tells you to do things and not to do things? Trust it. Also, don’t hesitate to post, you’re funny. At least you crack your family up, and hey that’s what matters!”
ON OVERCOMING HURDLES… Keeping my identity a
secret. I basically live a double life (cue Hannah Montana theme song). Getting used to the negative comments in the beginning. You can be Nelson Mandela and they’ll still find reasons to hate on you. Getting over the fear of people recognizing me in public and approaching me initially. I love when they do now – they’re always respectful and really sweet! ON CAREER MILESTONES… My YouTube channel. Proud to have gotten it off the ground and running! Rapping professionally. I couldn’t have imagined I’d ever take that step, but I did it with Benefit – the ‘Girl Gang’ music video is my absolute favourite collaboration so far! Acting - super excited about doing a lot more in the coming year. ON THE FUTURE… There will be more music. I’ll be heading to acting. Fire brand collaborations And finally launching my own online store – I’ve got that niqab hook up! ON POWER… The freedom to live life according to the rules that you set for yourself – not society’s rules, not the culture and tradition’s rules, not people’s rules and definitely not men’s rules. My life, my rules.
If there’s a mantra that we should all live by it’s Amy Roko’s: “My life, my rules.”
ON HER SOCIAL MEDIA GROWTH… I gained a very loyal following the moment I joined Instagram. It was unusual to be a niqabi on social media when I first started. All I re-
member is I gained around 100,000 followers within the first two days and then every time I posted followers jumped around 10,000. ON FEMALE EMPOWERMENT… It means women having spaces, energy and resources to do what they want. Letting women do what they want. It means equality. It applies in many different contexts, but simply put, I define it as gender equality. ON FEELING THE PRESSURE… Every now and then [I feel the pressure]. Now it’s not as scary. When you have the right team and support system around you, you’re encouraged to embrace yourself. ON MISCONCEPTION… There’s a huge misconception surrounding the niqab. This comes with two main stereotypes: firstly be-
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Tania Fares
WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
The Mentor
For anyone launching a brand, support from inside the industry is a vital key to success. Fashion editor and philanthropist Tania Fares co-founded Fashion Trust Arabia with exactly this in mind, to support young designers from the MENA region FTA offers support across five categories: eveningwear, ready-to-wear, accessories, jewellery and debut talent. Support from FTA comes in many influential forms including financial, mentorship and exposure. We discussed the incredibly powerful work that FTA has achieved in just two years since its launch with Beirut-based Fares. Since Fashion Trust Arabia launched in 2018, how have things evolved? There have been many developments since the initial launch. The first year, for example, we had about 275 applicants, and then 600 the following year. And we’ve just launched the application process for the 2021 FTA prize,
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with a submission deadline scheduled for the end of November 2020. Our first-edition winners from 2019 are now selling their designs on Matchesfashion.com. Most recently, FTA partnered with Inexmoda and ProColombia to create Unique Edition, bridging the fashion and creative worlds of Latin America with the Arab region, by providing young designers with international exposure to new markets, and the possibility to learn from each other. What does Fashion Trust Arabia aim to do for brands in the MENA region? We aim to give financial support, mentoring, guidance and exposure for fashion brands from the MENA region. We help young designers through
FTA’s network. For example, we partnered with Maison de Mode, who mentored FTA prizewinners. We also exposed them to journalists, as well as judges and an advisory board made up of the likes of Pierpaolo Piccioli, Olivier Rousteing, Elie Saab and Elizabeth Saltzman, who gave valuable advice and guidance to FTA prizewinners. In your opinion, how does this region differ to other fashion markets across the globe? The region doesn’t mass produce, so much of the output is handmade, artisanal and sustainable. And we also have very important eveningwear designers based in the region, such as Elie Saab, Rami Al Ali, Ashi, Zuhair Murad and Rabih Kayrouz.
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How has this year’s pandemic affected the work of FTA? In 2020, we were unable to have our annual ceremony, which was scheduled for March, due to COVID-19. We ended up having the ceremony virtually and still handed out the five prizes. Can you talk us through your career in fashion? I co-founded fashion brand Lulu & Co with Lulu Kennedy. We were creating collaborations with artists before anybody else did. I then founded British Fashion Council Fashion Trust and became a contributing editor for British Vogue in 2011. You’re not just the co-chair and co-founder of Fashion Trust Arabia, you also have launched the Fashion Trust in other regions including the UK. Are there any other regions the Fashion Trust reaches? Yes. We have the InStyle Fashion Trust in the United States, and this year we’re inviting Colombia to be part of FTA. What was it like partnering with a major ecommerce site like Matches Fashion for FTA? We are grateful for their invaluable support. FTA prizewinners are selling their
“The region doesn’t mass produce, so much of the output is handmade, artisanal and sustainable.” products on Matchesfashion.com, allowing them to reach a global market. In addition, it’s been extremely beneficial for the designers to be mentored by a respected retail institution like Matchesfashion.com. What advice do you wish you had received on the beginning of your journey to success? Always trust your instincts.
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FTA 2020 Ready-To-Wear Finalist – Jordanian Fashion Brand Nafsiksa Skourti
You work incredibly hard, where do you get your motivation from? Seeing designers from the MENA region grow, flourish, develop their brands, achieve success and be recognized on a global level is extremely motivating. Looking back over your career, can you tell us about three major hurdles you’ve had to overcome? Managing family and career; learning how to raise funds; and not being able to have one home, but rather three homes on three different continents. What are your future plans for Fashion Trust Arabia? In an ambitious effort to widen its scope, FTA is expanding its online presence by restyling its current website – fashiontrustarabia.com. This is ‘The Power Issue’ – what does power mean to you? The ability to effect meaningful change while remaining humble.
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Her Highness Sheikha Intisar Al Sabah is not afraid to push boundaries – in fact she doesn’t see any boundaries for Arab women, choosing instead to believe that there should be a support system that allows them to rise, even out of the most traumatic circumstances. As part of the Kuwaiti ruling family, Her Highness Sheikha Intisar Al Sabah is the founder of Intisar jewellery, Lulua Publishing, skincare line Prismologie and Intisar Foundation. Each may appear to have a different approach, yet they all have the same purpose – to improve mental wellbeing. “Our vision is to transform self-care from an occasional indulgence into a daily ritual and to empower people across the globe to take charge of their wellbeing through colour and scent,” she explains. In the turbulent times that we are going through, physical, mental, emotional and spiritual health has never been more important. “COVID-19 has reinforced the demand for human touch, wellbeing, immersive regimes and concepts that boost immunity and all-round health. It has also forced us to see that we all need to take time out both mentally and physically”, Her Highness agrees. Her Highness Sheikha Intisar truly believes in the power of the mind and how it can be used for good. This has led her to launch a ground-breaking platform, Intisar Foundation, in 2018 to support women traumatized by war and violence, something she had a close encounter with: “I was a victim of war in 1990 and I had come to a realisation that unless I released any PTSD (post-traumatic stress disorder) that I suffered I will not be at peace or be kind to people around me. Working on myself brought strength I did not realise I had inside of me and with it came the ability to lift others after I was able to get myself out of the victim stage to the place where you can be so strong and mentally solid. This realisation led me to start the foundation as the Arab world is the most turbulent region on earth and if there is no catharsis of negative war trauma and healthy empowerment of women the cycle of violence will continue and this is unacceptable.” Supporting hundreds of refugee women, Intisar Foundation most notably uses drama therapy that helps survivors work through depression, anxiety, post-traumatic stress disorder. Not only that, but this community-based intervention facilitates “healing and empowerment within some of the most marginalised communities in Lebanon and Jordan.” The UKbased humanitarian organisation is one of the first in the Middle East to focus on the psychological health of women in a safe and intimate group setting. “Drama therapy is an inclusive, non-stigmatising, easy and engaging form of therapy that guides these women through expressing difficult emotions, becoming vulnerable, and rehearsing healthier behaviours together and WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R in a safe environment. It, therefore, helps them remove shame, guilt, and depression, and achieve a higher level of mental wellbeing and better emotional awareness. A survey carried out after our drama therapy programme in the Shatila Refugee Camp in Beirut revealed that over 68 per cent of participants reported a reduction in PTSD, just over 93 per cent in depression, and 75 per cent in anxiety.” The foundation is run by women who regularly travel to Lebanon and Jordan to take part in group sessions while also establishing teams of researchers and drama therapists on the ground. The pandemic may have shifted their therapies online with videos of techniques women can implement at home, but the “new normal” has allowed the royal to hit pause on her demanding schedule. “This pandemic made me slow down in some aspects and also look at making bigger, more strategic plans and work towards a bigger picture, thus minimizing my workload.” Her Highness Sheikha Intisar’s workload does
The Power of Support
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Her Highness Sheikha Intisar Al Sabah is on a mission to help Arab women find their inner power through innovative therapy and physical wellbeing
not show any sign of decreasing as she is determined to reach more women with her #OneMillionArabWomen initiative. The 20-year plan strives to train around 600 drama therapists and facilitators in order to heal one million Arab women who are struggling with trauma through drama therapy because it truly does work. According to their in-house surveys, 78 per cent of participants experienced an increase in self-esteem, and 43 per cent saw an improvement in overall satisfaction with life. And it’s not just the numbers that prove a point, the royal uses some of the methods herself to help her find balance. “I have been working towards reaching the place I am in now for years. I learned how to use positive psychology to bet-
ter mental wellbeing and now with Intisar Foundation, I am growing my voice and releasing all shame and guilt to come to a place where only really huge events disrupt me. When they do, I perform gratitude exercises and use tools from drama therapy to get me back to balance.” We live in uncertain times, forced to take on many elements that are out of our control, but we do have the power to take charge of our lives and our minds. One thing that Intisar Foundation and Her Highness Sheikha Intisar have shown is that we are stronger than we think, especially when we lift each other up. “I look at every woman as a powerful woman, some still have not seen their strength but I do and I am inspired by it.”
“Our vision is to transform self-care from an occasional indulgence into a daily ritual and to empower people across the globe to take charge of their wellbeing through colour and scent.” F E AT U R E
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The Power of Nurture
Khadija Al Bastaki has not only shaped the creative community in the region in her role as Executive Director of Dubai Design District, but she is also proud to be part of a wave of Arab women stepping into senior roles to nurture new talent and drive progession
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Khadija Al Bastaki
n just 7 years, Dubai Design District has become a key hub for creatives in the region and beyond. Providing a nurturing space for like-minded individuals to bond across all spheres of design – from architecture to art and fashion – d3 has managed to bring the world of innovation to the region that now rivals other major cities. Around 385 businesses consisting of 9,000 people have found their home in the intricately designed corner of Dubai with fashion and interior designs dominating the community, but it’s not just a space for the thinkers. It also invites a variety of personalities to enjoy its buzzing restaurant scene, beauty outlets, shops, basketball and volleyball courts, a skate park, outdoor gym, climbing wall and an urban beach. “Our vision is simple: to maintain and build upon d3’s position as the region’s leading destination for art, design and culture by creating an ecosystem that supports business, entrepreneurship and innovation,” explains Khadija Al Bastaki, Executive Director of Dubai Design District. Al Bastaki took charge in 2019 and has focused heavily on solidifying the community of creatives and supporting home-grown brands. A software engineer by training, Al Bastaki studied information technology before moving into business, supply and logistics, free zone management, and portfolio management of global accounts, within the purview of the TECOM Group. Now she is in a role that serves both of her core interests: “Fash-
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ion and design are two of my passions and it’s truly great to be leading a community that celebrates and thrives on these two creative forces. I am inspired and motivated by the pool of talented designers in our community.” In a short time, she turned d3 into an even more thriving space, and not just for brands that have made a name for themselves, but also for those just starting: “Startups have always played a crucial role in the social and economic development of Dubai and the UAE, and the importance of creative entrepreneurs has never been so important,” she observes. “The Middle East has created an enabling environment for startups and entrepreneurs and d3’s infrastructure provides plenty of ways for talent to fine-tune their skills. We are home to in5 Design. It features prototyping labs with state-of-the-art systems and machinery for designers working with metals, wood, plastics, textiles and exciting new materials. We’ll continue to invest in and develop our infrastructure to ensure entrepreneurs and startups have access to everything they need. We also support home-grown designers through the Dubai Institute of Design & Innovation (DIDI), the region’s only university exclusively dedicated to design and innovation. In terms of advice for startups, I will simply say that the world needs innovative entrepreneurs and disrupters now more than ever.” Part of Dubai Design District’s wider appeal is its variety of events that attract a global audience. From one of the biggest style-driven gatherings in the Middle East, Fashion Forward, that attracts a mixture of established and emerging brands from the region and abroad as well as an urban event that celebrates streetwear and sportswear SOLE DXB, to Dubai Design Week that gets bigger each year, whatever your designbased interest is, you will find an event that further expands your mind. However, like many industries around the world, some of the upcoming events and plans had to be rethought due to the global pandemic. During this time of uncertainty, Al Bastaki had to stay up to date with the challenges and provide solutions so that all the d3 businesses can be in a strong position to respond quickly when economic activities resumed in Dubai and the UAE. “We’re always looking for fresh and exciting ways to empower local creative talent. Earlier this year we teamed up with Apple Music to curate playlists showcasing the region’s most promising musicians. The playlists provide music fans around the world with access to some of the hottest up-and-coming artists in the region with carefully-curated soundtracks.” And as far as supporting UAE’s efforts in fighting the pandemic, the d3 network stepped up in more ways than one: “Our community of more than 500 creative partners is home to more than 90 Emirati business partners. During the height
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of the global health crisis, seven of our fashion partners including Michael Cinco and Maison Yeya joined the Arab Fashion Council to produce more than 13,000 medical gowns for UAE healthcare workers. This was just one example of our community coming together to contribute to the UAE’s response to the COVID-19 pandemic,” she explains. “Moreover, we established a unified distribution centre to store and deliver surgical masks and gowns produced by d3 designers, as well as other designers based in the UAE, turning the community into a strategic hub for PPE made by luxury brands.” Despite the hit many industries took this year, the appetite for design and innovation is not changing, but simply migrating into other spheres, especially digital. From where Al Bastaki is sitting, the future looks bright. In fact, d3 last month announced Dubai’s first architecture festival which will take place from 11-13 November this year in the Dubai Design District. In association with Royal Institute of British Architects Gulf Chapter (RIBA Gulf Chapter), it’s going to be a celebration of architecture and an opportunity to hear from some of the brightest minds in this field. Curated under the theme ‘Identity, Context and Placemaking in the Gulf’ and overseen by the assistant pro-
fessor at the College of Architecture, Art & Design at the American University of Sharjah, Juan Roldan, the d3 Architecture Festival will deep dive into regional architecture, urbanism, and sustainable development. “Dubai’s first architecture festival seeks to encourage dialogue on identity, context, placemaking in the GCC region and the three-day event will run alongside Dubai Design Week. Through this festival, we hope to steer the emirate towards a more sustainable future.” Not only has Al Bastaki successfully pivoted d3 through these challenging few months and created a welcoming home for creatives, but she has also become an inspiration for women. With more Arab women entering senior positions, Al Bastaki feels encouraged by the progress the country has made, adding: “I am proud to be an Arab woman in a leadership position and feel empowered that the UAE is among the best countries in the region on gender equality. In the UAE, women enjoy the same constitutional rights as men and contribute equally to its development as a sustainable, knowledgebased, innovation-driven economy.” The inaugural edition of the architecture festival is set to run from 11-13 November 2020 alongside Dubai Design Week.
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
The Empowering Princess
“
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f you are fortunate enough to have access to resources or a raised platform, it is your responsibility to support and empower those who are not as fortunate,” says Her Royal Highness Princess Lamia Bint Majid Al Saud, the daughter of the late Prince Majid bin Abdulaziz Al Saud of Saudi Arabia. Her Royal Highness has made it her life’s mission to help those who are less fortunate than her, which she believes is her duty due to the position she has been granted in life. Initially starting a career in journalism after receiving her Bachelor of Arts degree in 2001 from Misr International University in Cairo, Princess Lamia found that through many inspiring stories she came across during her time as editor-in-chief at three publications that there was a bigger role she could play in the world. “I was constantly inspired by the people that I spoke to, I also noticed there were so many important stories not being told,” she tells Emirates Woman. “This led to the desire to play a larger role in shining a light on untold stories, especially when it came to empowering women and youth, as well as actively tackling social, cultural and economic challenges through my work in philanthropy.” Harnessing this desire to help others, Her Royal Highness began working with Alwaleed Philanthropies – an organisation founded by His Royal Highness Prince Alwaleed bin Talal bin Abdulaziz Al Saud 40 years ago. Initially serving as the Executive Manager of Media & Communication, she was appointed Secretary-General of the organisation in 2016. Passionate about advocating for women’s empowerment both in Saudi Arabia and globally, in her role with Alwaleed Philanthropies,
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Princess Lamia has been able to lead and work on a whole host of impactful and fulfilling projects to help women and youth. In a recent chat with Emirates Woman, Princess Lamia discussed her desire for change in the world; her philanthropic achievements; her work with Alwaleed; the path that led her to her work in philanthropy; and her hopes for the future.
HOW SHE BEGAN HER PATH INTO HER PHILANTHROPIC WORK
The pandemic has been a prime example of the important role philanthropies play in tackling some of the world’s most pressing issues. I had seen the way that philanthropies brought people together to support the most vulnerable communities. Prior to joining Alwaleed Philanthropies, I had advocated for women empowerment across the region, especially through the publishing industry where I had been exposed to so many inspiring stories. I recognised the need to shine the light on the achievements and challenges that were often unnoticed, and I wanted to be directly involved in supporting and mentoring the next generation.
WHY SHE WANTED TO HELP PEOPLE
From a young age, my mother taught me the importance of speaking up for those who are vulnerable or disadvantaged. It was ingrained in me, that each and every one of us has a responsibility to lift each other up, whether that be with access to resources or platforms to empower the next generation. Harnessing this passion, I have long advocated for women’s empowerment both globally and in Saudi Arabia. The more that I learned about the sector, I understood that
THE PHILANTHROPIC ACHIEVEMENTS OF ALWALEED PHILANTHROPIES
I am incredibly proud of the work we do. This year marks our 40th anniversary. To date, we have initiated projects in more than 189 countries reaching more than one billion beneficiaries across the world. In 2019, we completed the first nationwide study of female participation in Saudi Arabia’s economy and society. The study focused on the challenges facing women in terms of social, economic, health and educational experiences across the country. Through a partnership with the National Observatory for Women at King Saud University, the Kingdom’s General Authority for Statistics (GASTAT) and UN Women, the study highlighted barriers facing women and sought solutions to bridge the gender gap in the country. We are also determined to improve the quality of life for people in Saudi Arabia. In partnership with Careem we have pledged 100 cars to the Careem Captainahs initiative as part of our efforts to support women to seek equal employment opportunities. We are also proud to improve the quality of life for people with lower body disabilities through the Harakia initiative to provide adapted cars to those in need. Most recently, we allocated $30 million to tackle COVID-19 across the Middle East and Africa. We are determined to support vulnerable communities through diverse initiatives, from providing economic opportunities across Africa in partnership with the Islamic World Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (ICESCO) to ensuring adequate housing in areas of conflict with UN-Habitat and supporting a therapeutics accelerator with the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation. Our diverse response highlights our mission
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Her Royal Highness Princess Lamia Bint Majid Al Saud has made it her life’s mission to help others, particularly advocating for women. Through her incredible philanthropic work, Her Royal Highness is changing the world, one incredible story at a time
the world we live in is a network and we cannot achieve an equal and tolerant world in silos. We need to collaborate to ensure long-term and sustainable change. We must invest in the development of our communities, the building of cross-cultural bridges and the empowerment of women and youth. Alwaleed Philanthropies has successfully contributed in these areas, as well as disaster relief, which made it an honour to be appointed as the Secretary-General and work on impactful and fulfilling projects.
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to provide vital resources in times of need, while simultaneously empowering communities to ensure a stronger and healthier future.
HER OWN ACHIEVEMENTS WITHIN PHILANTHROPY
The biggest achievement for me is meeting the people who are directly impacted by our initiatives. Through our partnership with UNICEF, I was privileged to visit Laos for a vaccination drive where I met the children and families that would now be protected from preventable diseases. When you see the results of the projects that you work so hard to deliver, it fuels the passion and determination to continue supporting those in need. Additionally, on both the local and global level, working with Turquoise Mountain has been very fulfilling. I understand the need to safeguard our traditions and heritage for the future. We have worked in Saudi Arabia, Afghanistan and Myanmar to champion local craftsmanship and empower women through greater economic independence. I believe that this opportunity not only lifts up participating women but gives them a voice to inspire future generations.
WHAT DRIVES HER
Each and every one of us has the potential to make a positive impact in the world. This has always driven me in the work I do, simply, I want to do what I can to make a positive difference in our global community.
HOW THINGS ARE CHANGING FOR WOMEN IN SAUDI ARABIA
Achieving equality for women is a global challenge, however, in Saudi Arabia I am proud to see female participation and empowerment holding a firm place in the government agenda and as part of Vision 2030. There are more and more opportunities opening up, from providing greater freedom of movement to launching the first women’s football league to boost participation in sports. Importantly, I am glad to see a concerted effort to provide greater employment opportunities for women in the Kingdom. Most recently, it was announced that the country aims to provide one million jobs for Saudi Arabian women by 2030 as part of the reform plan. I believe that employment opportunities are vital to create a more equal world, where women garner greater independence. I have been fortunate to work on projects at Alwaleed Philanthropies that will help meet this goal. For example, we have offered training and employment programmes for female law graduates through our Waeya Legal initiative, as well as encouraging artisans, particularly women, with artistic, technical, and economic opportunities with Turquoise Mountain. There is more to be done but I believe we are on the right track.
HOW THE NEXT GENERATION INSPIRES HER AND THE ADVICE SHE WOULD GIVE TO THEM The next generation has inspired me with their dedication to tackling some of the world’s most pressing challenges. I have already seen how the youth of today has harnessed their passion and drive to shape the world we live in. My advice would be to take every opportunity that comes your way, whether big or small, you do not know who you will meet and where it will lead you. I would also urge youth to strive to have a positive impact on their local and global communities. Whether the humanitarian field or in the laboratory, each and every one of us has the potential to make real, lasting and meaningful change.
THE CHALLENGES SHE HAS OVERCOME
Changing perceptions of women and of the Middle East has always been a hurdle for us across the region. There needs to be greater participation and representation on both a global and local level. On one hand, we need to continue to address the barriers that women face, especially when it comes to tackling socio-cultural challenges and employment opportunities. We have made great strides, however, I believe we must continue to harness the power of women for a better future. When you invest in a woman’s health and empowerment, it has a ripple effect, helping families, communities, and countries achieve long-lasting benefits. On the other hand, some of the challenges across the region are often exaggerated on a global scale. These cultural misunderstandings need to be overcome through greater cross-cultural collaboration. We have built bridges by promoting intercultural and interfaith dialogue within Prince Alwaleed Academic Centres located at leading universities across the world. This is a barrier that requires a long-term approach, by changing perceptions of both the Islamic and Western world. We are proud to be part of the conversation, and also, authentically portray the lives and experiences of people across the region.
WHAT POWER MEANS TO HER
Simply, I believe that power is mindset. If you believe you can do something, you have the power to do it.
THE MILESTONES SHE HAS REACHED IN HER CAREER
Firstly, I am proud to have played a role in Alwaleed Philanthropies reaching one billion beneficiaries. It is a great
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accomplishment for the whole team, and we look forward to supporting more people in future. Secondly, it was an honour to be appointed as the UN-Habitat Regional Goodwill Ambassador for Arab States. It was a milestone for me to support the work of UNHabitat through greater access to housing and reconstruction for vulnerable communities across the region. Another achievement in my career was writing my novel, Children and Blood. I was glad to have been recognised within the literary field while also encouraging discussion around difficult socio-cultural issues in the Middle East.
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PROMOTION
The Education Advocate
Anna Schebsdat is multifaceted, challenge-oriented and currently working for one of the world’s top business schools as part of City, University of London. With global experience across different continents, Schebsdat has a unique and inspiring path in the world of business. She is also President of Columbia Business School’s UAE Alumni Chapter, Board Member on Columbia Alumni Association UAE and an Advisor for the Al Suwaidi Foundation and the Abu Dhabi Arts Society. She discusses her career, triumphs and challenges with Emirates Woman Why did you choose a career in the executive education sector and who inspired you? Education lit up the path to many beautiful things that happened to me in life. My passion and expertise are in global education management, to which I dedicated the past ten years. It has given me a sense of purpose throughout my career as I help shape candidates’ development by matching their needs with the appropriate solution. The education sector plays a crucial role in economic growth through reskilling and upskilling. I thoroughly enjoy advising and bringing empowerment to executives when it comes to the refining of their skillsets. What does it take to pursue a global career? You need to get out of the comfort zone and for that you need self-confidence. Confidence, in my view, comes from self-awareness and appreciating oneself. Success is the result of hard, passionate work and being courageous to move countries. What exciting ventures have you been involved with in the past months? Alongside my full-time work for a business school where I had many challenges as the Education industry underwent rapid changes towards e-learning, I have joined Columbia UAE Alumni Association as a Board Member, led Columbia’s Business School UAE Chapter, received a Harvard online certificate, continued taking Arabic lessons and moved forward with a non-profit project, which combines art and education under an intercultural exchange umbrella. I have also started to work on a PhD research proposal and writing a chapter for a book, which I never thought I would pursue. What has been your proudest moment to date? I always had to prove myself adjusting to new cultures – from embarking on an international career by moving to different countries to being part of challenging
projects from scratch and building success stories. One of them was opening and building the Middle East office for my previous employer. It was the brand's first international expansion and, at the age of 28, I was working within the executive education industry for the world’s top schools such as MIT, Wharton and Harvard. I also took on an additional challenge of the Executive Programme in Management at Columbia Business School in New York to upskill myself despite juggling the challenges of a firsttime mother. Later I was appointed to lead the Columbia Alumni UAE Chapter, where we built on the success story alongside our eighty-three alumni clubs worldwide. How has COVID-19 changed learning and how do you see it continuing to change? The education sector is surely even more competitive and there is a drive for institutions
to deliver an attractive value proposition without diminishing the experience for students. Investment in an effective IT infrastructure is no longer a choice or added value, it became a must overnight. Blended learning, accommodating international students, growing the youth in particular in the Middle East – COVID-19 has exacerbated the need for innovation in education. With these changes, additional challenges arise. Such as, privacy and security of studying online and decreased socialising impacting learning soft skills with limited human interaction. Did you have a mentor and if so what knowledge did they impart? I am blessed to be surrounded by my family and friends who inspire me. My family always encouraged me to be the best version of myself, work hard and get the best education possible. I had some very inspiring mentors who advised me on how I can approach my career, for example, never to come with a problem, but approach with solutions. It is great advice I was given at the start of my career. This is ‘The Power Issue’ – what does power mean to you? Being compassionate, graceful, well-rounded and a socially intelligent person. Making an impact and to be able to inspire others to do better. For women, it also means being both, strong and soft. As well, the outer beauty should not outweigh the inner beauty. A woman’s power is also in her being filled with goals, self-innovation, values and drive. Being modest yet charismatic, refined and put together is what a woman should cultivate. I do believe that our power as a woman is our natural ability to bring love, beauty and nurturing that matters the most and is my daily calling as a woman. However, it should not stop me from achieving my other aspirations. This all is the power in my opinion.
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The Power of Knowledge
Former founding Director-General of Smart Dubai, the first woman to lead the transformation of a smart city globally, and an inspiration to the youth, in this interview with Her Excellency Dr Aisha Bint Butti Bin Bishr, we discover her secrets to success and definition of power
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WO R D S: D I YA N A H A K M I The Mother of the Nation revealed the landmark day celebrated on August 28 will have the theme “Preparing for the next 50 years: women are the support of the nation”. What does this mean to you? I want to congratulate Her Highness The Mother of the Nation and Chairman of the General Women Union, Sheikha Fatma bint Mubarak on this occasion and “Preparing for the next 50 years: women are the support of the nation”, this theme holds a deeper meaning as it highlights two things. First, it celebrates 5o years of Emirati women’s success that made the UAE what it is today. This success wasn’t possible without our leader’s vision, the late Sheikh Zayed, and his vision for women as he entrusted Sheikha Fatma to lead this. Second, it’s because he trusted us to achieve the UAE’s goals. In this interview, I would like to say that we accept this challenge on behalf of my peers. You are known for supporting young Emirati women to achieve their goals and empowering them to be the best version of themselves, what drives this within you? It’s not something out the ordinary for a female leader to do; this is something you should do as a leader. Leadership is not about superiority but about building partnerships with your team and community. The majority of my team in my last mission, as Director-General of Smart Dubai, were women. I didn’t plan it to turn out this way, but this resulted from the brilliant and talented women we have in the region. Ladies run most of the strategic agendas in Smart Dubai. Where do you think women in the UAE get their motivation from? The support of the UAE’s leadership broke a glass ceiling here that women in other countries don’t have. We also have the help of the community around us, including our families. It’s not only their ambition but also the support of the UAE through its women empowering policies and regulations that allow ladies to work smoothly. Where do women stand in Dubai’s futuristic plans? Women have always been at the forefront of Dubai’s futuristic plans. I was entrusted with establishing the first-ever smart city of its kind, Smart Dubai, and managed to build a team that made Dubai a role model for cities globally. It was a passion to build Dubai’s name in the ICT sector. I’m proud to be the first lady globally to be entrusted with such a mission. What was the most important step you took during your journey with
Smart Dubai? Selecting the proper team members for Smart Dubai, I’m so proud we grew a fantastic calibre of people, many who graduated from and moved to higher positions. Supporting people’s passion is not easy. The most important quality a person should have to work in Smart Dubai? To be passionate about life. As a leader, it’s to give your team members space to try new things and learn about their interests. Were these core work values always with you? They come from our Emirati, Arabic, and Islamic values: hospitality, tolerance, and openness. We shouldn’t segregate them from our work environment; we should take these values and integrate them into our corporate values. I’ve done this in my previous position because people give more when treated with more respect. What is the source of your power? I think it’s the will to make people happy. When people are happy, my soul lights up. It’s also the small details in life; to me, they are blessings. I enjoy every single moment in life because I appreciate life. Has the COVID-19 experience added to your view of the future and in what way? Indeed it did. COVID-19 taught me not to take everything for granted. It also taught me that no challenge is unbeatable with proper planning. It changed our priorities. What is your advice to young individuals aspiring to become successful in their respective fields? Being successful is easy and challenging at the same time. It’s simple because you have only to follow your dreams, but it’s hard because no single success in life is a coincidence, it has to be hard work and planning. Yes, follow your dreams but work hard for them. Struggles are stones you have to step on, but they make us more resilient. What is the most invaluable advice you’ve received? My late father taught me to be yourself and to be authentic. We need to sharpen our soul, to reflect and see our strengths; you cannot copy other people’s passions. You have to respect your needs and listen to your internal voice. What do you think of the progress of female empowerment in the Middle East? I’m happy for Saudi women and the huge leaps and successes happening in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. However, I believe Arab countries, including the United Arab Emirates, still have room for improvement and I look forward to continuing to see this.
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Into the future
Entrusted with the role of Chief Pavilions and Exhibitions Officer, at the futuristic Expo 2020 Dubai, Marjan Faraidooni has the responsibility of making sure strategies for development and execution are implemented WO R D S: D I YA N A H A K M I
What is the source of your success in your career? I feel privileged to have the responsibility of overseeing the exhibition spaces across Expo 2020’s pavilions that will excite and inspire visitors about topics that matter to humanity. I have been blessed by the opportunities that have come my way over the years and can attribute much of my career growth to being consistent and diligent in delivering what was tasked to me, no matter how small. I have also proactively sought opportunities to improve my skills and knowledge through self-learning and learning from individuals who are specialists in their fields. With the added years of experience, I also understand the importance of building strong and resilient teams that recognise the value of cooperation and operate with respect and integrity at their very core. Finally, I wouldn’t be where I am without the support and belief of the individuals who have entrusted me with the job, as well as my colleagues and my family. What do you think of the progress of female empowerment in the UAE? I am proud to live in the UAE, a country that is leading the region in gender equality, and where women hold senior decision-making positions that have a direct impact on the education, political, and economic sectors. The UAE has been ranked number one in the world when it comes to female representation in parliament, for example, with women making up 50 per cent of the UAE’s 40-member Federal National Council. Expo 2020 itself is led by a truly inspiring woman, Her Excellency Reem Al Hashimy, who is the Director-General of Expo 2020 Dubai, as well as the UAE Minister of State for International Cooperation. In total there are are more than 200 Emirati female employees and more than 600 female employees working at Expo 2020.
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Expo 2020 Dubai has also dedicated a space to address the advancement of women both from a local and global lens. We have teamed up with Cartier to create the Women’s Pavilion in celebration of women change-makers all over the world. Tell us about your view on Expo 2020’s impact on the future. World Expos have long prided themselves on being catalysts for change, showcasing groundbreaking innovations that still impact the world today. When we consider what the world has been through in the past months and the challenges that lie ahead, Expo 2020 Dubai could not come at a more opportune moment, and our theme of ‘Connecting Minds, Creating the Future’ could not be more fitting. Expo 2020 will bring together 192 nations to showcase and identify solutions to the most pressing and common issues facing humanity. Celebrating and galvanising global collaboration, we will host one of the biggest mega-events since the COVID pandemic, bringing the world together to address its impact, while also looking ahead. Taking place in the year of the UAE’s Golden Jubilee, the first World Expo in the Middle East will be a chance to celebrate our country’s achievements and look ahead to what can and must be done in the next 50 years. We hope that each one of our visitors will make new friends from all over the world, and be inspired by the realisation that they each
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have a role to play in making the world a better place. But our impact will not stop there. Expo has been designed with an eye on the future and will evolve into District 2020, maximising Expo’s technological and physical infrastructure to ensure this new city-within-a-city continues to be a significant contributor to the UAE economy long after the six months of Expo 2020. As a successful woman, and the Chief Pavilions & Exhibitions Officer at Expo 2020 Dubai, in your opinion what does it take to achieve a position like yours? There are many factors. I have always been committed to ensuring my work is driven by respect and integrity, and I have learnt that it is essential to be flexible and resilient in the face of change, and welcome the challenges brought by it. I’ve mentioned the importance of teamwork and clear, open communication, and I strongly believe in bringing the human touch to the workplace and ensuring a healthy work-life balance for myself and my team. I’m always looking for ways in which I can support. For example, pre-COVID, I would surprise my team with
lunches – either to celebrate milestones or share our concerns and issues. No matter how much pressure we’re facing, I make sure we find time to laugh and enjoy ourselves in the process. During the COVID pandemic, my team’s wellbeing was – and continues to be – of critical importance, sometimes even more than their deliverables. Everyone has been getting by in very challenging situations, but each person’s circumstances are unique. We maintain regular contact via Webex meetings, and I make sure to bring the team together for updates on what is happening, talking through issues to do with their wellbeing, and making sure they have the opportunity to voice concerns. What is your advice to young individuals aspiring to become successful in their respective fields? Work hard with the highest level of integrity, stay ambitious, and be committed to every task, no matter how small. Be adaptable and flexible, because change is inevitable – as the saying goes, it’s the one constant in life! Keep your sense of wonder – learn every day, ask questions, seek advice, and opportunities to develop yourself professionally and personally. What is the best way to empower women? Part of empowering women comes from top-down recognition of women’s capabilities, talents, and the value we bring to the workplace and women must be provided with equal opportunities for jobs in different sectors. However, ultimately it is we women who must support each other, lift each other, and always have each other’s back. Those of us who have achieved positions in leadership must take on that responsibility, be role models, and identify opportunities to mentor colleagues and students. What is the best advice you’ve received? Take it one day and one challenge at a time – and prioritise! Put yourself in someone else’s shoes and demonstrate empathy. This will broaden your perspective, strengthen your relationships, and improve collaboration. Finally, don’t be too hard on yourself! As long as you do your work with the best intentions, it’s OK if, at times, things don’t go the way they were supposed to. View these experiences as lessons you can learn from.
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“It is we women who must support each other, lift each other, and always have each other’s back.”
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Power Pioneer
Having had the dream and desire to serve in the medical field since she was young, Her Excellency Dr Maryam Mohamed Fatma Matar MD, Ph.D has become a pioneer and a visionary in the healthcare space in the UAE
HER DREAM TO WORK IN THE MEDICAL SPACE …
From a very young age, I was a very keen observer of scientific education. I grew up with a dream to serve and medical science is a perfect opportunity to help people, com-
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munities and bring a change to the world.
HER MISSION TO SERVE THE COMMUNITY…
My journey towards my mission of serving the community started with my Medicine Degree programme with Dubai Women’s College. As a young but committed student, I had opted to work in public health clinics in my practical training and during my time I realized that families are suffering with genetic disorders in a big way. My scientific and medical education enabled me to understand this challenge in our country and region in a scientific and detailed manner. Worldwide evidence suggests that prevention of genetic disorders is the most effective way to reduce, and manage genetic disorders and I decided to dedicate myself in more learning and implementing this evidence to better handle our national health challenge. UAE Genetic Diseases Association was founded in 2004 and since then and till today is a volunteer-led NGO. Since 2004, we have achieved: ∙ Legislation on Mandatory Premarital screening ∙ Legislation on Mandatory Newborn screening ∙ A national screening programme for the common genetic blood disorders in 2006 aimed at identifying Thalassemia, Sickle cell anaemia and G6PDH carriers in the UAE population. ∙ With dedicated efforts of scientific and community volunteers of HCT, Dubai Women’s College, Dubai Men’s College and many scientists and experts, we achieved the extraordinary results of screening 37,281 Emirati families and more than 13,000 expat families in this programme, which is the largest campaign of its kind in the GCC. ∙ Manal – Folic Acid prevention programme & WHO fortified wheat campaign ∙ A recent cabinet decision that rules that unmarried women and couples
can now freeze their eggs in the UAE. ∙ Legislation on the ban of smoking in public places in UAE ∙ Advocacy and leading the patient support through Patient support community groups for Breast Cancer called Ebtesam, and a Rare Diseases support group under my mentorship. ∙ UAE GDA supports and promote support groups for Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD), Alzheimer’s, Autism, cancers of different kinds and celiac diseases as well as help and guide several public health efforts and projects on an annual basis. I am also serving on several policymaking forums, commissions and groups in UAE, GCC region and global levels so we can all create a roadmap of scientific management and treatments. By the grace of God and support of my UAE GDA board, scientific committee and volunteers, I am able to dedicate myself to all my responsibilities and mission. ∙ My work at UAE GDA was recognised as ‘Pioneering Arab Woman in healthcare innovation 2019’ by 21st Pioneer Leadership Award ∙ Among two chosen Arab Women members of the Selection Committee of Zayed Sustainability Award ∙ Represented UAE women as the recipient of the prestigious Sheikha Fatima Leadership Award USA ∙ Representing the Arab scientific community as Co-chair and committee member of the Global Commission to End the Diagnostic Odyssey for Children with a Rare Disease.
ON BREAKING BARRIERS…
For me my gender was never a factor or an obstacle in my education, my career, my choices or achievements. In fact, being a woman made it easier for me to engage with our tribes, our community and mothers as I first set out to start public health, prevention
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or the past 16 years, the UAE Genetic Diseases Association has been conducting pioneering research in the field under the strong leadership of its founder and chairperson Her Excellency Dr Maryam Mohamed Fatma Matar. What led Her Excellency to place a focus on genetic disorders in her medical career was the evidence she came across during her studies and the start of her career. “Worldwide evidence suggests that prevention of genetic disorders is the most effective way to reduce, and manage genetic disorders and I decided to dedicate myself in more learning and implementing this evidence to better handle our national health challenge,” she tells Emirates Woman. This led her to founding the volunteer-led NGO to tackle some of the most serious genetic diseases known to humans including genetic blood disorders, Alzheimer’s, Autism, cancers of different kinds, celiac diseases and more. Not only is Her Excellency a pioneer in the medical space, she is a role model for many women in the UAE seeking to succeed, whether that be in healthcare or other industries. Additionally, she’s able to facilitate change, paving the way for other women and girls in the region. “My role as the Chairperson of UAE GDA and being the most powerful women scientist, gives me huge opportunity to make change and influence decision-makers to bring more learning and career opportunities for girls and women,” she says. Discussing her powerful and pivotal role within the medical space, Dr Matar details to Emirates Woman what power means to her; the incredible successes the UAE Genetic Diseases Association has achieved under her leadership; the philosophy she lives by in her career; and the highs and lows of her career.
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and population screening programmes. I say this with utmost pride and gratitude to the founding fathers of UAE and Sheikha Fatima Bint Mubarak, Chairwoman of the General Women’s Union, GWU, and President of the Supreme Council for Motherhood and Childhood and Supreme Chairwoman of the Family Development Foundation. By the grace of God, I had the fortune of receiving mentorship and support of His Highness Sheikh Nahyan Bin Mubarak Al Nahyan Cabinet Member and Minister of State for Tolerance of UAE and President, UAE Genetic Diseases Association who believed in my vision from day one. My roles as the First Woman DirectorGeneral in Dubai Government – Community Development Authority and the First Emirati woman Undersecretary in Dubai Government – Ministry of Health are a testimony of the values and trust our leaders place in women, in a long-term vision and rewarding the good work.
THE MENTORS & GUIDANCE SHE RECEIVED…
Being an Emirati woman, I am very privileged, and my strength and abilities come with the blessed support of my mentor HH Sheikh Nahyan Bin Mubarak Al Nahyan, Cabinet Member and Minister of State for Tolerance of UAE, and our leaders. Each of these distinguished leaders trusts in the abilities of the UAE’s daughters and opened doors for us to learn and serve our country and the world. Our leaders, who are guided by the vision of Sheikh Zayed, the founding father of UAE, have always supported my Emirati sisters in all fields. The UAE vision is an inclusive strategy with special emphasis on youth and women development. My mother was and is my first mentor, as she was my first teacher and also a role model. My parents allowed me to dream big and gave me opportunities to follow my purpose, even though they faced social pressures.
THE PHILOSOPHY SHE LIVES BY…
To be grateful, have big vision and value collaboration and the community you live in. If one works with the objective of betterment of people and the world, one will always find resources, strength and guidance.
THE KEY LESSONS…
Identify your life purpose and work towards your purpose, with all your skills, energy and commitment. Value the power of collaboration and people who trust, support and enhance your vision. No matter what your vocation and career is, you can always find a way to serve with selfless work and make the lives of people better. Success is a sum total of your efforts, determination, honest work and your love for our purpose.
CHAMPIONING OTHER WOMEN…
My role as the Chairperson of UAE GDA
and being the most powerful women scientist, gives me a huge opportunity to make change and influence decision-makers to bring more learning and career opportunities for girls and women. Today I serve as a global speaker and mentor on women leadership, STEM and scientific innovation and we support the cause of women empowerment, participation and recognition in corporate and educational sectors. I mentor over 100 professional women and 500 young professional graduates on an annual basis and engage with over 5000 students. I also serve on academic boards of academic and scientific institutions and promote the formation of STEM committees. I speak in more than 35 specialist conferences in the field of healthcare across the globe every year and engage with thought leaders, doctors, nurses and para-medical teams of women. Hopefully, I give them enough inspiration to advance their careers.
THE CHALLENGES SHE HAS OVERCOME
For me, every difficult situation is an opportunity to make a change, grow and learn so I will share two of the most significant opportunities I had. One of the biggest opportunities for me was to gain community acceptance to introduce the concept of population screening and prevention to our people. We know how crucial this step was and is and hence I was fully committed to make it a success. We met our people in all parts of the UAE, including the remotest parts and listened and understood their feedback. We learnt from their feedback and created our programmes to put education and awareness as the core of the project. We created a clear, scientifically-backed roadmap, and emphasized on critical issues like privacy, confidentiality and consent in our programme. The second opportunity was to successfully place UAE in the global scientific hub of genetic sciences. To achieve this, UAE GDA organised the first-ever International Genetic Sciences Conference and UAE Genetic Disorders Prevention Awards in 2009. This was the first global event in UAE on genetics and since then we have organized 8 such conferences and awards. Over 1000 international scientists, speakers and eminent academic experts have joined us as speakers and award recipients. We are in active collaboration with more than 200 global centres of genetics today. Our scientific committee is made up of members of the highest calibre in international, regional and national categories. These achievements, our track record and work and support of our international partners, have established UAE as a leading centre of genetic sciences however we are always looking to create new and better ways to make more progress.
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HER MOST REWARDING CAREER MOMENTS My most rewarding milestone was to be a Guest of Honour in the cabinet meeting where the law of mandatory premarital screening was passed in 2009. The legislation was passed based on UAE GDA project recommendations, findings and results of our first population screening programme. This first law subsequently saw another mandatory newborn screening legislation. These legislations proved to be a true game-changer for the UAE population, as we were able to bring down the incidents of the six most common genetic disorders to a minimum in very little time. As a Guest of Honour, I was representing all the volunteers, experts, teams and my parents, who trusted me and stood with me when I started with the concept of population screening and prevention of genetic disorders. My other milestones are the ones where I was able to create changes at policy and infrastructure level for my country, and I was not only recognised as myself, but also as a representative of UAE women, my Emirati sisters and as a role model. Another moment of pride and happiness was when I was chosen as a first female Director-General in Dubai Government Community Development Authority. This is a very distinguished position and offers a huge opportunity to make a real difference to the health policy framework. The community Development Authority (CDA) undertakes the responsibilities of formulating and delivering social policies and services that are in line and contribute to the achievement of the social development objectives of Dubai’s Strategic Plan 2007 – 2015 as launched by His Highness Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum. As the first Emirati woman to bear the title Undersecretary to the Minister of Health in 2006 I worked on designing blueprints for Primary and Public Health care sector and implementing it. For me, the significant achievement was launching a number of initiatives to deliver Primary Health Care Services in the Northern Emirates and increase the number of PHC centres from 52 to 79 in less than one year. Primary healthcare centres are a backbone of an efficient infrastructure for any country and serve as a pillar of public health. Today I look back and feel proud that the model is still used as a successful case study.
WHAT POWER MEANS TO HER
Power is an opportunity earned through selfless work, as a blessing given by God to the chosen few – to be able to serve the community better, and make changes that have a positive and long-lasting impact on humanity and future of this world.
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The CEO
Can you talk us through your career? Did you always envisage yourself going into finance and banking? Even from a young age, I was interested in finance and knew that I wanted a career in banking. More importantly, I also knew I wanted to be a leader. Leadership has always come naturally to me. I used to be on several sports teams and captained a girls’ netball team for a few years, which gave me a taste of leadership. It was a new role for me at the time, but one I grew to love – especially the more games we won. Of course, leadership is hard work. To me, it’s is all about continuously working on yourself and growing from your experiences – of course, while investing in and supporting others. It’s also about constantly reinventing yourself and staying relevant – whether that means developing technical skills like understanding artificial intelligence, or improving leadership skills, such as sharpening your emotional intelligence. I was lucky enough to have great leaders and work with truly inspiring leaders, so I now aim to pay it forward by mentoring, supporting, and creating opportunities for aspiring young leaders. You’ve worked hard, where do you get your motivation from? The truth is that I love my work. However, as I mentioned earlier, that’s because I picked a career that I am passionate about and have been from a young age Choosing a career which you enjoy is essential — it will be much easier to stay motivated through the tough times when you’re already in a job that’s meaningful to you. It’s important to sit down and really think about your skills and talents — what do you want to get out of a career? Then,
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pursue a job that lets you bring your unique gifts to bear in ways that regularly make you feel challenged and valued. If you do that, you are more likely to enjoy what you do, meaning you are more likely to be great at it. I try to lead by example. I’m direct, demanding, and inclusive, but I’m also a huge fan of simplifying everything in today’s highly complex world. This is something I always challenge my team with. Whether it’s putting together a new client proposal, coming up with a new process or developing our people, I encourage colleagues to simplify things and focus on what’s essential. What advice do you wish you had received on the beginning of your journey to success? While it may sound cliché, the best advice I recieved is to always believe in yourself. I truly believe that, by being confident in your own abilities, as well as following your passion, you will succeed. This would be my advice to any future leader. Of course, leadership is also a lot of hard work. Success is all about working on and growing yourself, while investing in and supporting others. It is also a lot about constantly reinventing yourself and staying relevant – whether it is your technical skills like understanding artificial intelligence or leadership skills around sharpening your emotional intelligence. In terms of women working in business, finance and banking in the region – how are opportunities changing for them? Looking at the UAE, specifically, we have made great strides in improving gender equality in the workplace. This applies to both government entities and private organisations who have made considerable effort in supporting women and fostering an environment for them to thrive. This has been especially evident in the financial sector where, according to the Central Bank of the UAE, Emirati women account for about 75.3 per cent of UAE citizens working in the sector - a significant figure. Women are also a key pillar of social development across the Emirates and, recently, we have seen the adaption of a number of policies and initiatives aimed at supporting them. It was recently announced that the UAE progressed 23 places in the United Nations Development Programme, ranking first in the region and 26th globally. Also, according to a World Bank report, the UAE ranks among the top ten economies exhibiting the most progress towards gender equality since 2017. At the Bank, we also take gender equality seriously and we believe that inclusion is an organisational strength. In line
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Rola Abu Maneh, CEO of Standard Chartered, is a power player in finance. Taking challenges head-on and continuing to achieve is in her DNA. We sat down with Maneh to find out what it takes to lead in business and how the UAE as a nation has for championing women in business.
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
with this, we have committed to ensuring that women occupy 30 per cent of our topfour levels of management by the end of 2020. What’s more, two of our four regions, and a number of our large markets including China, Hong Kong, India, Nigeria, and the UAE are led by female CEOs. I am proud to be one of them. In addition, in 2019 we launched the Art Gap exhibition where we conveyed the message of equal pay for equal work, from the UAE to the rest of the world. It was a local initiative that hopefully becomes a global movement to raise awareness and support for equal pay for men and women for the same role. Organising this event reaffirmed Standard Chartered’s commitment to the UAE’s national agenda, which aims to make the UAE one of the world’s top 25 countries for gender equality by 2021. We would like to inspire other organizations and entities in the UAE to join in the drive towards gender balance, as envisaged by the country’s leadership. However, there are still challenges that need to be overcome. What would you identify as the challenges for women working in the GCC? To understand more about how we can empower women and pioneer female leadership, we look to the UAE. HH Sheikha Fatima bint Mubarak announced this year’s Emirati Women’s Day slogan as "Preparing for the next fifty years: Women are the support of the nation". We are proud to be a continuing part of the UAE’s success story for over half a century and are excited to support the country to achieve its goals in the next 50 years. The UAE is a progressive country from a labour market perspective, Emirati women are very come? Looking back over the years, a major barrier to female leadwell educated, and the government supports the ership has been organisational structure. Simply put, it’s unconadvancement of women in all sectors. In theory scious bias, lack of equal opportunities, and the absence of your therefore, Emirati women have a wide array of tribe. I faced a lot of challenges while climbing the career ladder. working options. Yet today, women make up only There were times when I struggled just to be on the ladder! It was 28 per cent of the total Emirati workforce, and not easy, but throughout my career I have always focused on busiparticipation levels are well below countries with ness outcomes, open communication and confidence. a comparably favourable labour market context. Institutional mindsets are another significant barrier and are In the absence of favourable working conditions, a major reason that we don’t see more women at the top levels of Emirati women are quite entrepreneurial and leadership. People make assumptions about women at work and as lean towards running their own businesses. leaders based on their stereotypical roles in society. Often, women Although we are proud of the progress that we are limited in their advancement or, worse, never given an opportuhave made and share the ethos of planning for the nity because of bias. Lastly, it's not enough to be in a certain role or next 50 years where we believe we will achieve more have a seat at the table. One must also speak confidently, regardless change and success. Women in the GCC feel emof the odds faced. At times, women leaders may fear being criticized powered to make their own life choices. They have or rejected; however, respect comes when one's voice is heard. Make increasing aspirations for success in many roles: as your presence known as a leader and collaborator for good. wives and mothers, as career women, and as conOn the opposite end of the spectrum, what are your top three miletributors to their community and country. They stones from your career, so far? Leading a massive workforce of an invalue national and community service and want to ternational bank in the UAE in itself is a milestone and a huge responleverage their education and entrepreneurial spirit sibility. It’s not easy juggling strategic business decisions with family for self-fulfilment. These roles may differ at differlife, and our UAE franchise has been through tough times over recent ent life stages – for example, women tend to priyears. But I want to put UAE business back on the map and showcase oritise family when their children are young. It’s no what the UAE can achieve by delivering client-centric, digitally-led secret that the financial industry is a traditionally and innovative solutions to our clients. We have great potential. The male-dominated field and, despite our undeniable UAE is at the heart of Africa and the Middle East, and we’re wellprogress, a 20 per cent representation of women on positioned to connect our clients from Asia and Africa to the world. executive committees and 23 per cent on boards is And finally, this is ‘The Power Issue’ – what is power to you? To me, pownot enough. There is still a long way to go to create er equals impact. It’s not necessarily the position you hold, but the iman industry in which women have equal access to pact you’re having on the people and the world around you. What imopportunity and positive outcomes. pact are you making on people and on the value of the business? Power comes from your ability to do that. Power comes from the relationships Looking back over your career, can you tell us you build. Are you truly creating value and having an impact? about three major hurdles you’ve had to over-
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
Goals, and shows how sports and fitness can play a role in confronting our shared environmental challenges,” Prince Khaled said at the time of the team’s win. “Under Vision 2030, Saudi Arabia has made the environment and the overall health of our citizens a top priority.” In further support of the Greens, Her Royal Highness Princess Reema bint Bandar Al Saud, the first female Saudi Ambassador to the United States, also expressed how “proud” she was of the team and showcased her support by participating in a panel discussion organised by the GGWCup. “The pride and joy that I feel is so hard to describe; only those who were there with us can really understand,” Greens player, Ms Maram Adel Albutairi, tells Emirates Woman of being in the first all-female team to represent the Kingdom. “We are trailblazing our way, and we are writing history.” Albutairi’s love for football began at a very young age, taking after her mother who is also a “die-hard” football fan. It was after winning a tournament in Eastern Province in Saudi Arabia that she realised she would never want to stop playing. Albutairi’s fellow teammate Ms Rawh Abdullah Alarfaj shares a similar sentiment about participating in the tournament. A particular milestone for her was being able to work with a global brand like Nike, who sponsored the Greens’ appearance at the GGWCup. Reflecting on her 12 years playing football, Alarfaj reveals she went through “a lot of struggles” to get support for the team she previously managed. “One of the major struggles was getting proper gear for the team,” she says. “Watching official female teams and female World Cup games sponsored by big names throughout those years kept me always dreaming of one day being sponsored by a big global brand. The day Nike sponsored the Greens Team made us feel professional and we felt even more validated.” The all-female team representing Saudi Arabia on an international level was a history-making moment for the kingdom and in recent years many other positive changes have happend for women in sport and beyond. “It’s all a dream come true, and I actually can say I lived the dream,” Alarfaj says. “For myself and a lot of women like me across Saudi practising all different kind of sports, we’ve been waiting for the day when these changes would happen. Back in the day, we were individuals working towards making female sports live, now we are a whole country working on it all together.” For the Greens’ player, she attributes it to the “major role” the Saudi Sports for All Federation has played by providing “high-quality opportunities for both girls and women in sport”. With female’s gyms in Saudi Arabia being licensed nowadays, it gives the opportunity for women to practice sports across the board. role of sport in achieving the United Nation’s “If a girl or woman wants to pursue sports Sustainable Development Goal (SGD) No. 5. as a career, she can now become an athlete or The team – which has been spearheaded a coach and seek certification; this wasn’t the by His Highness Prince Khaled bin Alwaleed case before,” Alarfaj notes. As for the teambin Talal Al Saud, the president of the Saudi mates’ hopes for the future, they aspire to Sports for All Federation (SFA) – went on continue to fly the flag for female footballers to claim second place in the New York Cityfrom the Kingdom. “I hope that in the future based tournament, an achievement which women footballers in Saudi’s national team was highly praised by many. “The Greens’ will compete in the Women’s World Cup one participation in the Global Goals World day,” Albutairi says. “And I would say to all Cup demonstrates the Kingdom’s committhe women in sports: try and try and try once more; you should never give up!” ment to the UN Sustainable Development
The Team Players
It was only two years ago that women in Saudi Arabia were allowed to attend sporting events in public stadiums. Since this history-making moment in 2018, the attitude towards women in sport in the Kingdom has transformed. At the forefront of the pivotal shift in the country is the Saudi Greens Team, which became the first Saudi women’s team ever to join an international event. In 2019, the Greens competed in the Global Goals World Cup (GGWCup) – a tournament that was launched to champion the
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As the first all-female footballers representing Saudi Arabia, the Greens Team is at the forefront of the empowering change for women in sport that is happening in the Kingdom
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SHAIMA SALEH AL-HUSSEINI, MANAGING DIRECTOR FOR THE SAUDI SPORTS FOR ALL FEDERATION (SFA) How did you become Managing Director for the Saudi Sports for All Federation? I was in the private sector initially. I always felt a need to put my energy to work for Saudi society and give back to my country. I’ve worked across several public sector positions, all in the wellness and sports space, and with the guidance of Her Royal Highness Princess Reema bint Bandar, I was given the opportunity to advocate for Saudi’s healthy and active community as the Managing Director of Sports for All. During Prince Khaled bin Alwaleed’s Presidency, the Federation has gone from strength to strength, and together with our leadership team we’re privileged to serve Saudi by invigorating health and wellness metrics in the country. We are influencing positive behaviours for the longterm, getting people active consistently, and spreading health and fitness as a movement that everyone can and should adopt.” How have things changed for women in sport in Saudi Arabia? It is hard to say what has changed, as the question is more what hasn’t changed? Everything has improved by leaps and bounds for women in sport in Saudi. There are now dedicated programs to foster women in sport, and in our case, at the community level, to turn athletics and
people to try new activities on the ground. Our Family Activity Days welcomed more than 314,000 people last year, allowing event-goers to try more than 40 activities on-site. This teaches a love for sports and physical activity from a very young age, and helps to build physical literacy. Another example is our cycling race series for women across three cities that concluded in January of this year. The series had more than 1,000 competitors, and it was a huge moment for women in sports in the Kingdom; they could compete and be rewarded for doing so. Now, SFA is also a change-agent, as together with our partners, both private and public sector entities, we are working on encouraging a mindset of physical fitness and health and wellness. Our whole messaging schema is built around being a change agent: try a new activity, get your kids in a new activity, get up and walk 5,000 steps per day, try that YouTube workout video; join the wave of activity sweeping Saudi, get moving! In addition to events, we have a number of programmes that work to foster a consistent and early exposure to athletics including the SFA’s Girls’ National Sports Days (GNSD). It took place over a sixweek period and included more than 24,000 students from 499 schools. There’s a lot more I could talk about in terms of fostering women in sport. What do you hope for the future of women in football – and sport in general – in Saudi Arabia? I hope to see more Saudi women become the faces of sport in Saudi. Already we have a few very well-known professional athletes and some fitness professionals that are very well-known at the community level as well. What I hope is that we get there with every sport; that girls bephysical activity into a daily habit for girls yond count take up and excel in sports. Have from a very young age. The Saudi Sports for you seen our women hockey players? Imagine All Federation, with the support of the Minthe surprise at having women’s ice hockey teams in Saudi; it’s real and it’s getting bigger istry of Sports, works very closely with the all of the time. Our girls that play on differQuality of Life programme, and we have very clear mandates on increasing mass participaent basketball teams are amazing as well. If tion, and specifically that of women and girls. you follow Saudi sports social media chanThere’s now huge support for elite womnels, you’ll see all of these people interact and en athletes as well; as I am sure you know more, posting images of their contribution to there was not before.” athletics in the country.” There have been major positive changes that How is the Saudi Sports for All Federation suphave been made for women in Saudi Arabia. porting change for women in sport in the KingWhat are your thoughts on this? Women in dom? At Sports for All, we’re working across Saudi all thank His Majesty King Salman multiple prongs for societal betterment. Girls and His Highness Prince Mohammed bin and women do of course figure prominently in Salman for their belief in Saudi women and these plans, as the SFA develops programme our potential and capabilities. We are very for all people – both residents and nationalslucky to be living during this period in Saudi in the country. We want to be the most incluhistory; we are encouraged to pursue every sive across genders, all ages and all abilities. ambition and we have the support mechaWe stage sporting events and events that allow nisms now in place to do so. When you spoke to the Saudi Greens, they said they were living their dreams; we all are. This is ‘The Power Issue’ – what does power mean to you? Power means being able to empower others, and at the SFA I’m proud to say that we are empowering people across the country by giving high-quality opportunities and access to sports and health and wellness knowledge to all.
“Imagine the surprise at having women’s ice hockey teams in Saudi; it’s real and it’s getting bigger all of the time.” F E AT U R E
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Pro Caffeinating
The best edit of all things coffee related whether you’re a true connoisseur or just an espresso addict WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
Fierce Bar Stool Dhs1,200 Marina Home
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From left: Italian Moka Express Dhs168 Bialetti; Emma Vacuum Pitcher Dhs478 Stelton available at Arama.com; Coffee Cups Dhs131 available at Amazon.ae; Goa coffee spoon Dhs51 Cutipol available at Arama.com; AJ Coffee Pot Dhs1,202 Stelton available at Arama.com
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We spoke to co-founder of Three Coffee, Drew Dennehy about creating the perfect morning ritual
make better coffee in their cafes and homes, so we focus a lot on education and training. If our customers and, in turn, their customers, notice an increase in quality in the coffee they buy, we can pay higher prices to the farmers and producers we work with. But, providing high-quality coffee is only half WORDS: CECILIA D’SOUZA the job. Supplementing this with high-level training and support ensures that our partners are producWhat is your early morning coffee ritual? My ing delicious coffees for their customers. morning coffee is a small space that I have for myself each day. It allows me to think What is the difference between the three about what happened yesterday, how that colour categories: Each colour represents a impacts our business, and what I need to do basic set of sensory qualities we believe all for the rest of the day. I choose one of our coffees can be grouped into. coffees and make myself a series of espresBROWN COFFEES tend to exhibit tradisos. This changes daily so that I can assess tional characteristics, like chocolates, carahow our coffees are performing over time mels and nuts. These tend to be more smooth and ensure that our customers are getting and balanced coffees. Their tasting notes the quality we promise them. range from molasses, dark chocolate and toHow did the Three Coffee concept begin? Both Karthik, (my business partner) and I, bacco at the darker end have been passionate about coffee for a long of the roast spectrum time. When you spend enough time in an into toffee, almonds and dustry you’re passionate about, you get to a butter at the lighter end. point where you say, “I think it’s time to do PURPLE COFFEES are something ourselves”. We had connections to very aromatic, flavourful producers and farmers at origin so that helped and sweet. They tend to us present interesting coffees to people here. be naturally or experiWe aim to try and make the coffee industry mentally proces-sed cofbetter by helping farmers farm and process fees. These give them their coffee and get them higher prices for their purple fruit, dried their coffee. We want to help our customers fruit and deeper notes.
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Drew Dennehy
Strong Start
These are coffees that are complex and often exhibit notes of berries, chocolate, sweet citrus and deep sweetness. GREEN COFFEES are fruitforward and lively, often displaying sweet citrus, stone fruit and floral notes. They’re characterised by their vibrancy and celebrate a key component of speciality coffee; positive acidity. Often, speciality coffee gets a bad wrap for presenting customers with sour coffees. If sourced, roasted and brewed with care, these coffees can be beautifully sweet with their acidity coming through as something positive in the cup. Green coffees hint at lighter fruits rather than the deeper fruits that Purple Coffees display. We wanted to try and make it easy for people to understand what they were drinking, without having to know too much about the coffee. If they know that they like green coffees, they know they can pick up pretty much any coffee within that colour range and enjoy it. But the system doesn’t stop you from enjoying coffees in other colours, it just allows you to know the general characteristics of the coffee you’re looking at. How long have you been involved in the world of coffee? I’ve been in the industry for around 12 years. I initially started working as a barista to pay for food and rent when I was at university. From there, I started my journey and fell into the rabbit hole that is speciality coffee. It’s such an interesting and diverse industry, there’s so much to continue learning to do. Why do you think coffee is so important to people? Coffee is and has been important for hundreds of years, dating back to the religious practice of the Sufis in ancient Arabia, to the Ottoman empire and the advent of the industrial revolution. Coffee is important for four main reasons; acuity (caffeine), ritual, socialising, and of course taste. Throughout the recent lockdown, it’s been interesting to see how people’s priorities have changed. People haven’t needed the caffeine to wake up as often and haven’t been able to socialise. The ritual and, more importantly, the taste of coffees they buy
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have become so much more important. People have become more interested in where coffee comes from, why it tastes the way it does and how they can incorporate slower, pour-over style coffees into their morning routines. Coffee has become more about connecting with the product, not simply a crutch to get through the day. How do you source your coffee beans? Our co-founder and Head of Coffee, Karthik, used to travel 3-4 months of the year sourcing new coffees and building relationships with farmers and producers. We work with farmers and producers directly for around 90 per cent of the coffees we source, a number we aim to get to 100 per cent in the next year. This means going to farms, seeing how they grow their coffee and providing them ideas on how they can increase the potential of their coffee. Sometimes this is buying new equipment for them, sometimes it’s offering advice on how to process their coffee differently. Being able to do this is rewarding because you get to buy really tasty coffee and feel good about it. Making the coffee industry better means ensuring the people we’re buying from, grow with us. How does one differentiate between beans? People are often aware that every origin has its own set of tastes, aromas and flavours. But even more interesting is that you can have an even broader range of flavours that come from within each origin. For example, we have two Colombian coffees from the same farm. They were processed (see boxout) differently and, as a result, they taste completely different. One tastes like caramel and chocolate, the other like plums and orange! To be able to differentiate between coffees takes a little practice. It’s a bit like becoming a sommelier of wine! Why did you choose Dubai to launch your brand? Dubai had always interested me as a place where things were happening and business was being done. The speciality coffee scene here is fairly new but has developed so fast over the last couple years. The UAE and the Gulf region, in general, are placed to make some big things happen in the coffee industry. What do you think sets Three Coffee apart from other brands? Aside from our Coffee by Colour system, I think that three main things set us apart; our relationships with farmers, our knowledge and experience, and our team. Our relationships with our farmers and producers allow us to source and provide unique coffees to our customers. From Indonesia and Thailand, to Costa Rica and El Salvador, we have a diverse range of tastes and flavours. Our team’s combined experience in the coffee industry is almost 90 years’ and so we know what we’re doing. I think the biggest thing that people say when they meet us is that despite being a new company, our customers trust us. Our team is the best bunch of people and I love them. They’re so professional. They love what they do and they have this crazy desire to be the best. Whether that’s roasting or making coffee, to educating and training people. Why should you bloom coffee before you’re making it? “Blooming” coffee refers to ‘saturating’, or fully wetting, your coffee grounds, and waiting for a short while, before you begin brewing. When coffee is roasted, it produces CO2 gas as a natural by-product. This gas is trapped in the beans and is something we don’t want in there. The idea behind ‘blooming’ is to wet the coffee so
that the gas can escape, giving us better-tasting coffee. What is the perfect brewing technique? There is no one perfect brewing technique. Many different steps need to be followed depending on which piece of equipment you’re using to make your coffee. But, there is an overarching idea that never changes. And this is the idea that you want your extraction (how the water travels through the coffee grounds and removes flavour from them) to be as even as possible. There’s a few tips and tricks that you can use to try and make extractions as even as possible, but it requires training and patience to get them right. Which of your products is the best all-rounder if you're looking to gift someone? Definitely, the Aeropress because it can produce a few different types of beverages, can travel with you and doesn’t break easily. They can also make some awesome tasting coffee if used right. How powerful is coffee in today’s world? Coffee isn’t just a drink. It’s a global commodity. It comes second only to oil in total value traded each year and, as such, employs millions of people THREE COFFEE around the world. Coffee is the lifeblood of the capitalist economy. I think around a quarter of the developed world is semi-addicted to coffee without even realising it. So much of our global WHAT YOU NEED economy is not just made up • Aeropress • Aeropress filters • Grinder or already of the trade in coffee futures pre-ground coffee • 1 Aeropress scoop (16g or 2tbsp) and physical stock, but reof coffee • Hot water just off the boil (about 90°C) lies on our caffeine addicts’ • Aeropress paddle or spoon • Timer • Cup or mug brains to make it run. METHOD: What next for Three Coffee? We’re going big. We want to 1. Push plunger out of the chamber be known as the best cof2. Put the filter in a filter cup. (Use two filters fee company in the Middle for cleaner taste) East. That doesn’t just mean 3. Twist filter cup onto the chamber. Preheat coffee quality, but also the brewer and rinse the filter with hot how we support the people water. This gets rid of any paper flavour who buy coffee from us; caand warms everything up. Heat your cup fes, restaurants and people or mug with hot water while you are at it. at home. We’re currently 4. Stand chamber on a sturdy mug. building our showcase roasMeasure and grind the coffee about as tery, which will include a fine as table salt. service centre for equip5. Shake to level coffee. Discard the rinse ment, glass-cased roasting water from your mug. room, espresso bar, experi6. Add water up to Level 4 on the chamber ence centre and most imor 210gr of water. 90°C for hot brewing. portantly, a training facility. Start your timer when you pour hot water Training is so important as into your brewer. Saturate all the grounds it allows people to underwithin 10 seconds. stand the story of the coffee, 7. Stir for about 45 seconds for hot brewing. how we roast it and how 8. Insert plunger and gently press down they can use techniques and with steady pressure, stopping as soon knowledge to get the best as you hear a hissing sound. This entire out of it. High-quality beans brew process should take just under 1.3 are only half the story – how seconds for hot brewing and yield around you make it is the other. We 7 oz of coffee. want to empower everyone 9. Remove filter cap, push the plunger to who buys from us to make eject used coffee and rinse seal. Clean better coffee and from those the rubber plunger with hot kettle water cups, make coffee better. and you’re ready for your next brew.
RECIPE FOR HOT BREW
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The Power of Perseverance
“It’s easy to give up, it’s much harder to persevere,” restaurateur Joey Ghazal says. If there’s something the founder of The MAINE Group knows a lot about, it’s the power of perseverance LIFE
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
If we’d have said to Joey Ghazal 20 years ago that he would be one of the most successful restaurateurs in the Middle East and founder of the ever-popular The MAINE Group, there’s a high chance he would not have believed us given that his chosen career path was “purely accidental”. After his father “forced” him to get a part-time job while he was at university, which happened to be working in a steakhouse in Montreal, the rest – as the age-old saying goes – is history. While his choice of career path wasn’t a planned one, it’s safe to say it was the right choice for Ghazal who has become widely known across the region and beyond, particularly in Dubai. But in an incredibly competitive industry, the climb to the top hasn’t always been easy. A philosophy Ghazal lives by, he tells Emirates Woman, is you have one of two choices: “let hardships and failures define you and keep you down or let them embolden you to rise, aim higher and be better than before”. “It’s easy to give up, it’s much harder to persevere,” he says. “I always choose to move forward out of respect for all of the hard work that I and countless others have put into projects.” Ghazal has worked his way from the ground-up in the restaurant business. BeJoey Ghazal gining as a waiter in Montreal, he counts those five years as some of the “happiest and most fulfilling” of his life. However, just over 10 years ago Ghazal lost his father, which he describes as a “turning point” in his life. He left a well-paid job in Montreal, where he had spent many years, and moved to Lebanon where he opened five restaurants in two years. After spending close to three years in the country, Ghazal decided it was time to leave and relocate back to Dubai. “I just wanted to give Dubai a try before deciding to give up on the Middle East all together and move back to North America,” he explains. It’s evident that “try” paid off, as just two years after returning to Dubai Ghazal opened his first restaurant in the emirate – The MAINE Oyster Bar & Grill. Discussing the opening of his premiering establishment in Dubai, Ghazal explains the whole pro-
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cess took one-and-a-half years, which officially opened its doors on November 23, 2015. “People don’t realise how long it can take to develop, construct and open a restaurant,” Ghazal reveals. “It can take years and can be a very agonising experience.” Five years on, The MAINE Group has two more establishments under its belt with The MAINE Street Eatery opening in Studio City last year and the stunning The MAINE Land Brasserie, which opened in June 2020 complete with cut glass chandeliers and a New York feel. A project that was two-and-a-half years in the making, launching a new restaurant in the middle of a pandemic is something Ghazal – nor anyone – foresaw. “Opening a restaurant is challenging at the best of times. Opening during a pandemic was like doing it with one arm tied behind your back,” is how Ghazal describes the experience. It’s a hurdle like nothing he’s ever experienced in his two decades in the restaurant industry. “It’s no secret that there is a huge barrier to entry in Dubai, so there have been countless hurdles in opening the MAINE and scaling up the business to three outlets, but none quite as big as COVID-19,” Ghazal admits. “This pandemic truly is unimaginable and it very nearly broke us.” However, in-keeping with his impressive mantra of letting challenges help him aim higher, Ghazal and his team has persevered and powered through this unbelievable obstacle. While June 2020 marked the opening of The MAINE Land Brasserie, it also marked the reopening of the two other locations, which had been shut down due to COVID-19. It’s a process that has left the MAINE Group founder in “awe” of his team. “Working all day in a mask and gloves in a high-pressure environment would drive anyone insane, but they have been so patient and understanding,” he says. “I’m just happy that we were able to get everyone back to work.” In fact, there are plans in place to expand The MAINE beyond Dubai. “We are quite advanced in our plans to open The MAINE in London, but obviously it all depends now on COVID-19,” Ghazal reveals. “We are actively considering the Far East and Saudi as well. We should have a clearer picture towards the end of the year, hopefully by then we will be able to look back at this year with humility for what it has taught us.” Indeed, but it’s clear despite any obstacles he has faced throughout his career, Ghazal strives to continue on and not let challenges stifle his creative process. As for where his motivation comes from, it’s from a multitude of places, he states. “Some of my motivation comes from those rare moments of inspiration, which ignites my creative process. Some of my motivation actually comes from discipline and routine, but most of my motivation comes from seeing the joy in people’s faces when they step into the world I’ve created for them,” he admits. And for those looking to follow in Ghazal’s footsteps, he advises; have “a very clear intention and a clear point of differentiation”. “Surround yourself with and listen to professionals,” he adds. “Trust your instinct and don’t be swayed or allow anyone to dilute your vision. Be agile, practical and exacting in your decisions. Be steadfast, but also ready to change and start again if things don’t work out exactly as planned.” Sound advice coming from an incredibly driven gentleman, and something we can all live by.
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WO R D S : D I A N A B E L L- H E AT H E R
Power
Moves
Sustainable fitness and lifestyle brand The Giving Movement is disrupting the athleisure landscape one conscious step at a time Minimalist and modern, The Giving Movement is a Dubai-based athleisure label that has sustainability and ethical practices at its core. “The vision for The Giving Movement was always centred around giving back,” explains founder Dominic Nowell-Barnes. Launching this concept during a global pandemic could’ve proved a real challenge, yet with shopping habits shifting online and gyms closed – exercising from home has driven demand. Ethical practices, sustainable fabrics and a charitable initiative have combined with the contemporary look and feel to grow a client base almost overnight that spans a broad spectrum of demographics and ages. “Meaningful apparel to me are clothes that mean something to the person wearing them. They should have a positive impact and there should be consideration in how they are produced.” Produced in the UAE from their in-house certified sustainable fabrics, the fabric is developed from recycled water bottles, while bamboo (that has similar properties to cotton) is used across casual and loungewear pieces. The brand’s approach even extends to packaging, which is made from plant starch and is also reusable. Launching with 40 styles across nine seasonal colours, the selection includes T-shirts, hoodies and two-piece sets that look just as cool when you’re not training as they do in the gym. In addition, the brand is partnering with the local independent non-profit organization, Harmony House, and UAE-based global philanthropic organisation, Dubai Cares. Proceeds from every sale will be donated to fund projects that are dedicated to improving lives on a physical, emotional and intellectual level by providing free education, food, clothing and medical care to underprivileged children. By the end of next year, he hopes to hit over $1 million in annual donations. Below, we speak further to Nowell-Barnes about his personal pursuit of career happiness and how he went about creating his own vehicle for positive change. As a new brand, The Giving Movement appears to be an overnight success. Is that a fair observation? I really appreciate that The Giving Movement is deemed a success, especially as we are only 14 weeks into this journey! In terms of the overnight aspect, there is a bit more of a backstory than that. Although I encourage anyone who has a dream or
a goal to go for it, there was a lot of work involved to get us from idea to launch. Whilst The Giving Movement launched during COVID-19 in April, I had spent around 12 months before that delving into the fashion space and looking for gaps in the market and what we needed to focus on to have an edge in the industry. I visited many manufacturers around the world to see how they worked. I learnt to design and construct clothing from yarn to garment so that I could create garments efficiently and cost-effectively and I dedicated a large amount of this time to studying the most disruptive brands and designers to get some insight into what made their brand a success. I am a firm believer in learning from the best and then differentiating. It was only 12 months later that we were ready to launch the final concept. The brand launched during one of the most challenging times due to the global pandemic, but then we all decided to exercise from home so has it been a somewhat positive time for the brand? I think for The Giving Movement, the real benefit was the shift we saw in the region of customers who would traditionally buy from malls, move towards online alternatives because they had no other choice. This was a positive shift not only for The Giving Movement, but for all online brands. What was your initial vision for The Giving Movement? After 10 years running an e-commerce business in the UK, I read a great book by Tim Ferriss called “The Four Hour Work Week”; the book helped me reevaluate my life and goals. A defining moment in the book, for myself, was a question that you had to ask yourself; ‘If I continue living this life in the same way for 10 years, and I get 10 times more of what I am working towards, will I be any happier?’ The idea is that if the answer is “no”, you need to make a change. At the time my business, as is for most people, was based purely on financial gain and it didn’t motivate me. I had a vision for what the next chapter of my life would look like and that was to find a way to put my time and energy into a project that would not only provide the financial stability we all need to survive but where the main focus was being able to positively impact the lives of those who are most in need. As my impact was limited by the hours I could spend working in a day, I chose to create a brand where the vision was to donate $4 from every item to charities who support those who are less fortunate. Rather than being a vehicle for positive change,
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I could create a vehicle for positive change that everyone could use. Why was it important for you to make everything in the UAE? ‘True cost’ is a term that is being referred to more and more in fashion. It’s the idea that whilst you might be able to buy a T-shirt for Dhs5 or Dhs10 from fast-fashion brands, often when the supply chain is looked into it might be at the cost of unethical practices such as forced labour, or even child labour. By producing the clothes locally in the UAE, we could not only support the local economy, but we could ensure the clothes were made ethically under our watch. Talk us through the sustainability elements and the decisions behind the choices of fabrics. One of the biggest surprises I had when developing the fabrics was how readily available sustainable yarns are, but how little they are used because they are around double the price of traditional fabrics. This really disappointed me when reviewing the choices major brands made and made me even more determined to make a change through The Giving Movement. Our soft skin sustainable activewear fabric is made from polyester, which is manufactured entirely from recycled water bottles. Our loungewear is made from sustainably sourced, FSC certified organic bamboo. Sustainability has never looked more stylish; does the design element play a significant role in shifting the fashion landscape into a conscious direction? Our primary design goal was to make sustainability cool. I personally love the shift we are seeing towards athleisure, and specifically streetwear. I feel like many countries have put their spin on streetwear, such as Japan and Korea, and so our focus is merging sustainability with activewear and streetwear. How did you decide on the charities to support through the sales? My goal, even before deciding to produce clothes as part of The Giving Movement, was to focus on the major challenges we face in the world today. If we can provide the basic needs for those most in need, such as food and education, this offers them the best chance of breaking out of poverty. Our chosen charities are Dubai Cares & Harmony House, whose focus is just that. Why did you decide to donate exactly $4 from each sale? $4 is a rough estimate widely recognised by several charities to be the rough amount required to provide one child or adult with shelter, food and education for a week. The concept was that; in every item you purchase, you can impact one person’s life for the better. How has your background helped shape the brand? Growing up in the north of England, I got to see all the different standards of living. I was always frustrated and upset by inequality and the difference between the poles of wealth and the impact that would have on the quality of life or health. It seemed so unfair. It makes me uncomfortable even now to enjoy a nice meal without the thought of those who aren’t so lucky coming into my mind, it unsettles me. I think that was my primary motivation to want to do something that could help those most in need. Did you aim for the brand to have a balance of functional activewear and day-to-day lifestyle pieces? Why? We have designed a mix of both active and loungewear, which is now more commonly referred to as athleisure. We chose to focus on this, as it’s what we believe the market is moving towards in fashion, especially post-COVID. Whilst a few years ago it was more common to wear a suit, we are seeing a shift towards more comfortable attire. What were the most challenging elements to get right? Because it is now so much easier to create a brand than only a few years ago
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thanks to apps like Instagram and websites like Alibaba where you can pick clothes off the shelf and stamp your logo on them, and have it delivered from China in a few days. The real challenge in creating a brand, in my opinion, is the points of difference you create. These are what separate you from the rest and will ensure your long-term success in any industry. We have tried some of the pieces and they are extremely comfortable. Thank you! Points of difference are for me the most challenging, but most important factors to success. I looked at products from every major sports brand, tried to establish what the ‘standard’ was and then spent the majority of the 12 months developing the fabric to ensure it was noticeably softer and more comfortable than anything else available on the market. The ethical elements stretch into production, how do you make sure that the team behind the brand is treated fairly? By producing the garments locally, it’s much easier for us to keep tight control on the sup-
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
“Our primary design goal was to make sustainability cool. I personally love the shift we are seeing towards athleisure, and specifically streetwear.”
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ply chain and its practices. We have established various policies around only working standard hours, five days a week. My philosophy on employment is to build a team where each person is doing what they love every day. If you love what you do, it won’t feel like work and that’s what we want everyone to feel like at The Giving Movement. How has the pandemic impacted your business plans? Having a 24/7 lockdown on our launch date wasn’t ideal! It made preparing the items for packing and delivery really challenging. We managed to solve this by working with third-party logistics companies. The rise in popularity of Zoom made working as a team from home fairly straight forward. Do you feel it’s now easier than ever to be sustainable and shop consciously? I really do. If we can fly into space and land back safely, there are very few limitations on what we can do here on Earth. Google is a great tool to be able to learn anything and a lot of my research was done working from home on Google. So, I do believe all fashion brands can be sustainable, it’s a choice. In terms of shopping consciously, there are very few brands that have made the shift to sustainable products, but we are hoping we will create a movement towards that with The Giving Movement. What can we as consumers do more? The awareness I think is always the first step. There is so much information available online about brands that are sustainable and/or ethical. There is a lot of information around the most sustainable fabrics and the least sustainable fabrics. I believe if we all make small changes, it will have a big impact. And what can the industry do? I do believe sustainability is a choice in most cases. It depends on what your goal is and what’s more important, bottom line profit or looking after the planet and its people. What goals are you setting yourself for 2021? We are on track to deliver over $150,000 (approximately Dhs550,980) in donations in 2020. In 2021, we have an aggressive growth strategy in place to grow to 10 times our current size and this will hopefully take our second-year donations to more than $1 million per year. This is ‘The Power Issue’, when was the last time you felt empowered? The Giving Movement is the first brand I have ever created. I wasn’t university educated; most of what I have learnt about business has been self-taught through reading books or watching YouTube videos ever since leaving school. So, it took a lot of courage to have the confidence to create a brand and publicly share it to strangers online. I was told countless times that it was too competitive of an industry, sustainability is too expensive, and $4 is too much to give to charity and often, this came from the people closest to me. Seeing the positive response we received on the first day of launching was the last time I felt truly empowered. How do you empower the team? I have always believed that an autocratic management style is out of date and that instead, a col-
laborative environment is one that is the most motivating one to create. The Giving Movement’s vision is to be a movement towards conscious consumerism and I want everyone in the team that’s involved, and every customer to feel a part of that. How can fashion be a powerful tool for change? Clothing is something everyone needs, and this was one of the reasons for choosing this as the product, to donate $4 an item. The more items we sell, the more we donate and the more impact it has. The philosophy of The Giving Movement is that small acts multiplied by many people can transform the world. What is next for the Giving Movement? Our only KPI at The Giving Movement is the positive impact we can have through our donations. Our goals as a team and brand are firmly set on disrupting the fashion industry and proving that conscious consumerism is possible! Fashion that looks and feels good? Join the movement by consciously shopping at www.thegivingmovement.com.
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THE DIRECTORY
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
Opt for the softest leather in autumnal shades The Chain Pouch clutch Dhs14,339 Bottega Veneta available at NET-A-PORTER
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