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Head-turning

h b herbs

Herbs are often plonked here and there, wherever space allows, as a bit of an afterthought. But, as Benedict Vanheems argues, their well-heeled looks, seductive aroma and wildlife appeal should earn them prized position on our plots.

Keep a few pots of herbs close to the kitchen for ease of picking

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PHOTO: Rhonda Fleming Hayes

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t’s been a busy start to summer. In spring I put in five new vegetable beds and have just converted a tired, overgrown tangle of weedy shrubs into (what I hope will be) a stunning new herbaceous border. Time will tell!

During the epic tidy-up I was stopped in my tracks by a threadbare rosemary which, despite years of obvious neglect, was still blooming its aromatic socks off. We have a wild bees’ nest in the garden and, let me tell you, the rosemary was alive with them. What a joy to watch them flit from flower to flower in their industrious trance.

They go crazy for a clump of apple mint too, gorging on its nectar-rich flowers later on in the summer.

Herbs can be every bit as stunning as traditional ornamental plants

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XXX HARD-WORKING HERBS

Herbs, you see, aren’t just about a few tasty pickings to liven up mealtimes, important though that is. They also contribute colour, scent and texture to the garden, while bringing in movement and sound from both pollinators and pest predators – insects such as bees, butterflies, hoverflies and lacewings.

Planted symmetrically and clipped to perfection, herbs can lend a sense of formality.

But leave them to loll about and do their thing and they’ll create an effortlessly relaxed, cottage garden feel. Use them to fringe paths, edge beds or as bold, statuesque eruptions bursting from the middle of the border. Pick the right herbs for the right place and anything is possible! So let’s see if we can’t elevate herbs from piecemeal plants to stylish stalwarts in their own right.

Here are a few ideas to plant herbs in a more considered way.

Formal backbone softened by relaxed planting in the ‘Summer Solstice’ garden at RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2008

FORMAL FLAIR

The secret behind the order and ‘tidiness’ that comes with formal elements of the garden is symmetry. Think of a neatly trimmed rosemary spiral or perhaps a pair of standard bay trees either side of a front door and you get the idea.

Perennial herbs that can be repeatedly trimmed are obvious candidates for adding a touch of formality to proceedings, but so too is the type of container you grow your herbs in. A tall, slender planter of herbs, or repeated terracotta pots of, for example, lavender add rhythm to your garden, offering structure and backbone.

Formal doesn’t mean stuffy or aloof. It is possible to stick to symmetry without going all stiff upper lip! A stunning example was on display at Chelsea Flower Show 2008. It used herbs – a lively mix of all sorts: big and small, mousy and brassy – planted into identical wattle panelhidden planters. The disparate gaggle of herbs knitted together beautifully because they were all in the same planters and laid out in a grid pattern.

It had both order and extreme beauty – a haze of leaf colours and textures and, of course, a heady scent that intensified with the warmth of the day.

Tall, slender pots add a sense of sleek style and formality to these mixed herbs

Terracotta is a timeless choice for this lavender

PATHS, CIRCLES AND SPIRALS

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PHOTO: Arpent Nourricier

A recently planted herb spiral. Note the mint in the bottom, confined to a pot to stop it spreading

Paths can lend either formality – straight and with purpose – or a relaxed, take-your-time informality by weaving through planting like a lazy stream. The classic herb garden of intersecting paths with central bed, urn or planter creates a formal framework into which relaxed plantings of various herbs can sit, combining the very best of both worlds.

Line paths with aroma-pumping sun-lovers, such as lavender, cotton lavender or sage. Chives also work well as edging and look glorious when they come into flower (bees love them), while parsley is a great choice for shadier areas, its flowers beloved by aphid-munching hoverflies and lacewings.

Few of us have the space for a full-blown herb garden complete with paths, arches and benches, but a smaller-scale version is always possible.

You could measure and mark out sections with ➤ string, then frame and line your creation www.kitchengarden.co.uk | 31

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PHOTOS: Karen Roe

NOOKS AND CRANNIES N

A classic herb garden, with intersecting paths, at Mill Dene Garden, Gloucestershire

with bricks, cobbles, block edging or paving slabs set edge-on. Simple herb wheels look great, and you can still leave space for a central feature plant such as lofty, feathery fennel.

Another option is to create a herb spiral. This is a variation on the circle theme, which will add height to your herb garden by spiralling gradually from the ground up. The lower levels are generally moister, so this is great for fleshier herbs like coriander, parsley, basil and chives.

In contrast, the peak of the spiral, being welldrained and less likely to be overshadowed, is perfect for resinous Mediterranean herbs such as oregano, thyme, sage or rosemary.

Wheel of fortune: Pack in the herbs into a simple but stunning herb wheel

Creeping herbs like thyme can help to soften the hard edges of paving

APPLE MINT: Its attractive, slightly fuzzy leaves and strong aroma make it the perfect mint for a thirstquenching mint tea. Delicious!

CHOCOLATE MINT: Bright green leaves contrast with chocolate-brown stems – what a stunner! The perfect mint for ice creams and puds.

GINGER MINT: A stripy mint that’s far from ordinary.

The ginger-tingly leaves are great for a tea that both invigorates and revives.

GRAPEFRUIT MINT: The flowers of this tangy mint are very popular with pollinators such as bees. It makes a top cut flower too.

PINEAPPLE MINT: This citrusy mint, with its whitefringed leaves, is a good choice for fruit salads or plonking into ice-cold drinks.

Mint is famously fast-growing and will quickly spread if left unch ecked. To avoid this invasive behaviour, grow mints in th eir own pots.

Terracotta looks best or sink pots into the grou nd up to their rims.

PHOTO: Bryn Pinzgauer

Garden-fresh mint is a mustgrow on anyone’s list. Use the leaves in salads, soups, pestos or puddings. Crush them into summer coolers and cocktails. Or steep the leaves for a refreshing cuppa. Don’t limit yourself to peppermint and spearmint – essentials as they are – but put together a magnificent minty medley.

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One of the most satisfying uses of herbs is to ssoften hard edges. Use thymes or chamomile to creep out from cracks in the paving or from path edges to blur the boundaries. Stepping on plants from f time to time won’t harm them, and will release their aroma. There are many thymes to ttry, with golden, silvery or variegated leaves, and pink, purple or white flowers. Needless to say p tthe blooms are a boon for bees. Mint also works well in areas where it is hemmed in on all sides to prevent it from becoming too rambunctious.

Where space is really tight, go vertical. Old pallets, often picked up for free, can be painted then lined with weed fabric or membrane to create compact planting pockets. These are just the job for a range of at-the-ready, often-picked herbs, including leafy herbs and sprawlers like prostrate rosemary or thyme. And, of course, don’t forget the classic but ever-popular herb pots, troughs and upcycled wine crates.

There’s always room for herbs, but I implore you to make more of them. They deserve to bask in the spotlight, rewarding the gardener with both flavoursome pickings for the kitchen and food for the soul.

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ESSENTIAL HERBS Looking to liven up a dreary corner of the garden? How about one of these nifty ideas? ê RUB A HERB TUB: Fill a wooden crate with a mix of compatible herbs. Line the crate before planting it up so the wood lasts longer.

é THYME OUT: Take some time out from the weeding on a garden bench planted up with thyme for the seat.

ç IN THE CAN: Upcycle an old can into a herb planter. Smaller cans can be attached to a fence to bring the scent up to nose level.

è TURN UP THE BASE: Bring the base of big planters to life with an underplanting of herbs – here chives, prostrate rosemary and sage, plus alpine strawberries.

ê PALLET CLEANSER: Make the most of vertical spaces. Old pallets make fantastic planters from which herbs like thyme can spill. ■

PHOTO: Sami Sieranoja

Most herbs can broadly be divided by habit. There’s the creeping or groundcovering plants (the spillers), the bushy herbs (the fillers) and the attention-seeking, vertical-thrusting herbs (the thrillers). Use a combination of spillers, fillers and thrillers to create a standalone herb border or to add to existing borders, patios and container gardens.

Right: Vertical-thrusting herbs such as fennel and angelica bring drama to the border

SPILLER

FILLER

THRILLER

Creeping and woolly thymes

Culinary thyme

Angelica

Oregano and marjoram

Sage

Fennel (try bronze fennel!)

Prostrate rosemary

Rosemary and lavender

Bay (grown as a standard tree)

Chamomile

Chives, coriander, basil, dill

Bergamot

Corsican mint

Most mints

Golden hops (trained up an obelisk)

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Make your own seed trays – they could last a lifetime

The

lo low-carbon

garden

Gardeners are green-minded folk, but even our seemingly innocuous pastime has its impacts. With more of us looking to be planet-friendly and lower our carbon footprints, Benedict Vanheems asks: how can kitchen gardening play its part?

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ver the past year, climate change – perhaps more appropriately termed the ‘climate crisis’ in the wake of its urgency – has been hitting the headlines. Recent wildfires in Australia and floods closer to home bring the shocking reality of the situation to life. No longer is it a distant threat; the climate is changing now, with weather turning ever more extreme and global temperatures already up a full degree Celsius over the past century. The rate of change is gathering pace too.

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At first glance gardening isn’t a huge contributor, but every aspect of our life contributes to our carbon footprint: from what we wear, to how we travel, the way we heat our homes and, yes, how we garden. The good news is gardens can be a powerful force for good, helping to chip away at our impact and shining a light on the positive ways we can push back at this very grave threat.

This article concentrates on ways to lower the carbon footprint of how we garden, but many of the principles will also help to give wildlife a helping hand, while making our neighbourhoods happier, healthier places to be.

GOODBYE PEAT

Talk of banning peat from compost and growing bags has been around for decades, so I’m unsure why it’s still available! Peatlands are an important store of carbon because they remove it from the atmosphere to sequester it (lock it up), frozen in time, as organic matter. Estimates put the carbon locked up in UK peatbogs as equivalent to eight years of the country’s entire carbon emissions.

Draining and extracting peat releases prodigious quantities of carbon, while compromising the peatland’s ability to continue locking it up. www.kitchengarden.co.uk | 29

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COLLECT MORE WATER

The treatment and distribution of mains water generates around 0.5% of the UK’s total carbon emissions – a small but easily tackled proportion.

Every water butt saves a couple of hundred litres of water every time it’s filled, which adds up.

Crops grow better with natural rainwater too, so it makes good sense to collect what you can. Got one already? Then add another using a water butt connector kit.

Clear gutters regularly so you’re collecting every last drop of rain. This can make a big difference during a hot, dry summer, when a few short but sharp downpours can quickly refill depleted butts.

GROW YOUR OWN FERTILISER

Growing food is a fantastic way to tackle the carbon emissions derived from buying produce grown elsewhere. But why not take things a step further by growing your own soil amendments and fertilisers too?

The best way to nourish the long-term health of your soil and the plants growing in it is to feed it lashings of compost. Compost all you can – from garden clippings to kitchen scraps

– and dote on your compost bin like another member of the family. Adding compost – and other organic matter – to the soil builds up the proportion of humus it contains. This stable layer of organic matter helps to lock up carbon in the soil for longer and is a great way to help your garden become a natural carbon sink.

Artificial fertilisers take a lot of energy (almost always fossil fuel-derived) to make. So why not grow your own liquid feeds instead? Steep nettles in water to create a nitrogen-rich liquid feed for leafy crops such as kale or lettuce, or plant a patch of comfrey for regular cutting for a feed high in potassium – ideal for fruiting crops like tomatoes.

A GREENER LAWN

In fact, lawns can demand a lot of mollycoddling. Aside from the mowing there’s scarifying to remove the build-up of thatch and moss, as well as applications of lawn fertilisers and conditioners. But lawns only really need feeding because we remove the clippings and then dispose of them elsewhere (hopefully on the compost heap!). Alternatively, simply leave the clippings to fall back on to the lawn – something I have been doing for a few years with no ill effect, just a lovely green sward. Invest in a mulching mower if you’re a stickler for a neat finish. These shred clippings into tiny fragments that are taken back down into the soil, very quickly, by all those worms and microorganisms to re-release the nutrients they contain.

A more radical approach is to ditch the lawn altogether. Push out the borders then turn all, or at least part, of the lawn that’s left into a miniature wildflower meadow. Meadows – and in fact lawns left to grow longer – lock up more carbon and are better for wildlife too.

Photto: readyzeal.ccom

As gardeners, the solution’s simple: avoid peat! Buy carefully – if it doesn’t explicitly say ‘peat free’ on the packaging it most likely isn’t.

Peat-free composts give excellent results and are used by professional growers up and down the country, so you really aren’t missing out. Even better, make your own potting compost by mixing garden-made compost and leaf mould – two parts of the former to one part of the latter – then add some slow-release organic fertiliser or worm compost for a boost of nutrients.

Electric trumps petrol when it comes to powering tools such as lawnmowers

POWER-DOWN Power tools – from lawnmowers to hedge trimmers – must run on something other than elbow grease! Petrol-powered tools aren’t great for the environment. For example, a medium-sized lawnmower running for an hour and consuming a litre of fuel will emit a fairly considerable 2.1kg of carbon dioxide. That’s the equivalent of driving about 15 miles in a mediumsized car.

Electric tools, on the other hand, have a dramatically smaller footprint. A lawnmower rated at 1400 watts would emit around a tenth of the carbon of our petrol-powered equivalent, and if your energy company supplies you with renewable energy it will be a lot less still.

Those with a tiny patch of lawn may even consider a manual mower and enjoy a little gentle exercise as they push!

Photo: Martin Cathrae

A simple human-powered lawnmower is more than enough for smaller areas of lawn

Replacing small areas of lawn with a miniature meadow of wild flowers is a great way to sequester more carbon in the soil

PLANT SOME TREES

“Fruit trees and bushes offer a double whammy: they lock up carbon and they produce tasty pickings”

There’s currently a big drive to plant more trees, and for good reason. Trees sequester a considerable weight of carbon in their trunk, branches and roots.

If you have the room for a full-sized tree, complete with graceful canopy, then planting a tree is the single biggest contribution you can make in the fight against climate change.

Most of us won’t have the space for a mighty oak, but almost everyone can make room for a fruit tree or two. Fruit trees and bushes offer a double whammy: they lock up carbon and they produce tasty pickings. Make use of a sunny wall and you can grow even more, adding warmthloving fruits such as nectarines and peaches to your repertoire. Many fruits are airfreighted from other parts of the world – grow and store fruits correctly and you could be enjoying your own fruits for most of the year.

REDUCE INPUTS

What we consume – the stuff we buy – has a very large impact on the carbon-intensity of our lives, and gardening is no exception. A frugal, make-do-and-mend attitude will reduce the impact on both the planet and our wallets.

Repurpose items from the recycling bin into pots, seed trays and plant labels. Buy well-made hand tools that will last – buy well once. Make www.youtube.com/kitchengardenmagazine

your own miniature polytunnels from old water pipes and polythene sheets.

Get handy with a screwdriver and make a wooden frame for an old window to create a bespoke cold frame.

The arrival of the seed catalogues is always a thrilling time of year. Buy what you love and keep on experimenting with new varieties, but save some of your own seeds too.

Standard open-pollinated (non-hybrid) varieties are all fair game, with easy-to-save crops like beans, tomatoes, lettuce and carrot high up the self-save list.

Preserve and store all your gluts, and share what you can’t manage. I always find a bag of garden-grown goodies goes a long way in charming the neighbours – a bundle of runner beans, a couple of onions and perhaps a cheeky courgette or two – and while it’s always done selflessly, these simple acts of generosity are always reciprocated at some point.

None of us are going to move back into wattle and daub shelters to resume hunting and gathering anytime soon, but with a little conscious effort we can at least make our gardens a zero-impact area of our lives. Love the soil and treat its wildlife with respect and they may even shrink our carbon footprints – a cheering thought in scary times.

Above: Fruit trees such as apples both lock up carbon in their roots and branches and avoid the carbon associated with shop-bought produce Below: Save a little of your own seed and trim your seed bill too

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GO PLASTIC FREE Plastic is derived from oil and its disposal has certainly been grabbing the headlines over the past few years. Could you go plastic free in your garden?

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1 SEED TRAYS: Make your own wooden seed trays. They last longer than plastic, are easily repaired and because they breathe, promote a healthier environment at the roots.

2 POTS: Use old newspaper to make biodegradable pots for seedlings and young plants. Old egg trays and loo rolls can also be used as containers for seedlings.

3 LABELS: Use lollipop sticks, bits of bamboo, smooth pebbles – anything you can write on – to make quirky plant labels.

Cutting strips from yoghurt pots is another great way to create labels; write on them with indelible ink.

4 COMPOSTING: Old pallets make sturdy sides to a composting setup. Screw them together with corner brackets and line the outside with chicken wire to keep it neat.

5 STORING: Go old school with damp sand for root crops, tree fruits among straw, hessian sacks for potatoes, freshly cut herbs in water, or salad leaves wrapped up in a damp tea towel in the fridge.

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LOW-CARBON GARDENING

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5 Photo: Karen Jackson

Increasing the proportion of our diet derived from plants can help reduce our carbon footprint. Home-grown can reduce this even further by cutting out emissions generated by the crop’s transport, preparation, packaging and storage.

Here are the carbon footprints associated with the commercial production of some common fruits and vegetables. Unless stated otherwise, the figures are for 1kg (2.2lb) of UK-grown produce.

PERMACULTURE Permaculture, a fusion of the words ‘permanent’ and ‘agriculture’, offers us a way to grow in harmony with nature in a way that creates thriving gardens, agricultural systems and, ultimately, communities at all scales. Permaculture combines three aspects – an ethical framework, an understanding of how nature works and a design approach – to develop stable systems that work within natural limits, indefinitely. A lot of the principles involved are plain-old common sense! n For more on permaculture and how it can help you reduce your impact on the planet visit the Permaculture Association’s website at www.permaculture.org.uk

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Fruit or vegetable

Emissions in kg CO2e

Apples, cherries, pears, plums

0.32

Asparagus

1.94

Beans, green

1.55

Beans, green – imported from outside Europe

10.7

Cabbage

0.22

Carrots, turnips

0.35

Cauliflower, broccoli

1.94

Chillies, peppers

5.88

Cucumber, tomato

3.79

Cucumber, tomato – imported from Europe

1.30

Currants, gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries

0.84

Lettuce

1.15

Onions, shallots

0.37

Peas

0.29

Potatoes

0.26

Pumpkins, squash – imported from Europe

2.22

*Source: http://assets.wwf.org.uk/downloads/how_low_report_1.pdf

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The tradition of growing flowers on the allotment is a great one and there is none lovelier and more useful than sweet peas. KG editor Steve Ott offers tips for success

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o allotment or veg garden is complete without some flowers and they have been part of the mix of annual sowings and plantings for as long as there have been allotments. One such flower that has long been a favourite is sweet peas; the combination of wonderful colour and scent is just irresistible. What’s more, pollinators and other beneficial insects love them too, so we get the double benefit of a lovely cut flower for the house and a plant that also attracts insect friends to our crops to aid pollination and mop up troublesome pests.

Deep cells such as Rootrainers are ideal for sweet peas

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SOWING

If sowing outside, you may need to take Sweet peas can be sown in the spring, but precautions against mice which may steal the the earliest flowers come from sowing in the seeds or nibble the young shoots. autumn, from September onwards. You can sow If sowing in cells or small pots for planting direct where the plants are to grow – perhaps out later, fill them with any fresh peat-free around the base of some supports such as hazel multi-purpose or sowing compost. Sow the large or bamboo canes or an obelisk, or you can seeds individually in Rootrainers or five seeds per start them off in deep cells such as Rootrainers, pot in 9cm (3½in) pots or similar. Cover with home-made paper tubes or pots.

2cm (¾in) of compost and water well.

If opting to plant direct in the open soil, choose Some gardeners like to soak the seeds a sunny, sheltered spot and scatter some overnight to soften the hard seed coat general fertiliser such as Growmore prior to sowing, but this is not or sheep or chicken manure strictly necessary. pellets over the soil and Water well, label and place rake in a few days before your trays or pots in a warm sowing. Put your supports place, such as on a sunny Moisture is important to keep the in place (the height windowsill or greenhouse plants growing vigorously and these will need to be will bench, but protect from to reduce powdery mildew later depend on the variety so excessive heat. Check the on. Dig in plenty of well-rotted do check the seed packet) compost each day for manure or garden compost and then sow two or three signs of drying out and and/or cover the soil with a thick seeds at the base of each water as necessary. Your mulch when planting. upright 2cm (¾in) deep. seedlings should emerge Water well. within about 10-14 dayys.

Of course, you u can also sow direct in nto a patio tub or trouggh, the trough perhaps backed by a trellis to support the plan nts.

If so, just follow the method abovve. www.yyoutube.com/kitchengardenmagazine

Try growing your sweet peas with climbing beans to entice pollinators to your crop

Seedlings emerge in around 10 days

Sweet peas look lovely in containers, here with an obelisk for support

GROWING ON

If you sowed direct, the shoots may need some protection from birds in the early stages and also some help to find the supports as they inevitably flop and need tying in initially. Slugs and snails may also take an interest in the young shoots and you will need to take precautions against those using pet-friendly pellets, barriers, traps or nematodes.

If however, you sowed in pots or trays, you can largely avoid these early stage problems. You can choose to keep your September-sown plants under cover over winter to protect them from the worst of the weather and if your soil is heavy and wet – or if you garden in a cold or exposed part of the country – this would be advisable.

Or you can simply plant out once the plants are 10-15cm (4-6in) tall.

If sowing in October/November, plants can stay in a cold frame or cold greenhouse or polytunnel until planting out in April/May. Similarly, if you sowed in January in heat (10C/50F) you would need to harden the plants off (acclimatise them to outdoor temperatures) prior to planting out in spring.

Plant so that the compost is just below the surface of the soil and firm gently before watering in and tying loosely to the supports.

Continue to tie into the supports as necessary, water during dry spells and as the plants start to produce buds, usually from June onwards, feed with a high-potash fertiliser such as a liquid tomato feed every seven to 10 days.

Good supports are essential for most varieties

VARIETIES

Cut regularly and remove seed pods

If your plants have not branched naturally you can pinch out the growing tips after planting or when they reach 10-15cm (4-6in) tall. This will encourage sideshoots and so more flowers next season.

There are so many single colours and mixtures available, the choice comes down to what you like and where you wish to grow them since some, such as the Spencer types, are taller than others. Scent also varies greatly, so that may well influence your choice. Check the seed catalogues or look to a specialist such as Matthewman’s Sweetpeas (www.sweetpeasonline. co.uk) for a great selection. ■ www.kitchengarden.co.uk | 43

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Radishes to relish The summer radish is firmly imprinted on our minds, says Rob Smith, but don’t neglect its winter cousin – milder, bigger and more varied than you might expect

I Fermented mooli

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doubt there is a gardener around who hasn’t tried growing a spring sown, round, fiery radish. In fact I have vivid memories of it being the first seed I ever ggrew as a child!

That said, I want to encourage more people to ggrow the more majestic and sophisticated winter rradish. Usually bigger in size, these slowerggrowing types are sown after midsummer and u usually take a couple of months to mature in ssize and flavour, but don’t think they are going tto be extra hot and spicy because of their size.

Normally milder than spring sown varieties N ((but sometimes with a kick), winter radish aare definitely not just for salads; they are to be eenjoyed cooked or pickled rather than snacked oon in the garden.

I’m not sure why more of us don’t grow winter radish as they used to be very popular in years gone by, yet we seem to think of small, round, red types when we think ‘radish’. It may be that you have tried to grow them but they bolted, putting you off trying again. My main bit of advice is to sow later so they don’t bolt, ideally between June-August, depending on the variety (check the seed packet).

You may be forgiven for thinking that winter radish are usually white (mooli/daikon types) or black (‘Spanish Black’), but they come in reds (‘China Rose’, ‘Red Dragon’), violet (‘Violet de Gournay’), green (‘Green Luobo’) and even white-skinned with a pink centre (‘Watermelon’, ‘Mantanghong’), so there is definitely some colour to be had with these delicious roots. www.youtube.com/kitchengardenmagazine

WINTER RADISHES

There aren’t that many veg seeds to start sowing later in the year, so being able to sow these into beds that you’ve harvested onions, garlic or broad beans from is a real bonus, especially when they store well for months.

Sowing is a little different to the spring types – think of it more like growing parsnips for spacing. I like to sow two seeds per station,1-2cm (½-¾in) deep with around 10-15cm (4-6in) between them, then 25cm (10in) between rows. Just make sure to water the area first so you don’t wash the seeds away. By sowing like this you can thin the weakest seedling, but you don’t have to thin lots of excess plants to get to your final spacing. It’s also good to start them off like this because as they grow they have more airflow between the plants, and as autumn sets in it is best to not have cramped plants which can start to rot or spread disease quickly.

Once the seedlings start to grow there are two main pests to watch out for: slugs and flea beetle. The former should be controlled in your preferred manner and the latter can be prevented by covering the seedlings in Enviromesh. Once the plants are a little bigger the damage caused to the leaves shouldn’t bother the plant too much, but as seedlings it can kill them.

Water the drills first before sowing

As your plants grow, be sure to water well in dry spells and within eight to 10 weeks you should be harvesting your first crisp roots. If you are a little more impatient you can always snip a few leaves from each plant as they add a spicy kick to salads and sandwiches, or you can cook them like spinach and serve as a side dish.

Now and again the odd plant may start to bolt due to lack of watering; however, this can be a bonus as it can give you another couple of tasty treats!

The flowers of winter radish are edible and taste like mild radish (funny that), but if you leave them even longer you’ll be rewarded with a few radish seed

pods, which are crunchy and spicy when picked young. With this in mind, don’t compost the plants just because they’ve started to bolt, eat them!

Plants stand well in the ground and are best left in situ during autumn with a 15cm (6in) covering of straw held down with fleece or netting to protect the tops from the frost; as the temperature plummets, just lift before the soil freezes.

Traditionally, they would then have been stored in a clamp or boxes of sand, yet I find them much easier to store in the fridge as long as you remove the leaves and keep the root in a plastic bag to keep it nice and crisp. ➤

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Freshly harvested mooli

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When it comes to eating the roots, they aren’t just for salads. Winter radish are ideal to cook like swede or turnip; in fact, they make a superb addition to soups and casseroles, where they keep their shape when cooked. Don’t be worried about them adding a spicy kick to food – when they are cooked they lose their fierce flavour and become mellow and delicious.

With winter radish being so easy to grow and versatile in the kitchen, I really don’t know why more people don’t grow them, especially as you sow them later in the year when your veg beds are starting to empty. So why not have a go and make space for these rather special winter roots?

‘Spanish Black Long’

There are plenty of varieties to choose from, with ‘Spanish Black’ (both round and long) being one of the most popular with their dark skin contrasting well with the ice white centre.

Japanese ‘mooli’ types are also very popular with several varieties in the UK, both F1 and regular varieties are available and these types are traditionally pickled in Japan and served with sushi – you may have had these without even knowing it!

One of the most showy varieties has to be

‘MANTANGHONG F1’: British-bred version of the ‘Chinese’ radish. You can grow these tasty roots up to tennis ball size and leave in the ground until required. Roots can grow up to 450g/1lb. The attractive, sweet red flesh has a peppery, nutty taste – ideal for use in winter salads and stir-fries. www.dobies.co.uk

‘BLACK SPANISH ROUND’: The skins of this heritage variety may be virtually black, but the crisp, tasty flesh is pure white. An unusual addition to the salad bowl, this is a very old variety well worth growing. Also known as ‘Noir Gros de Paris’ or ‘Nero Tondo’. www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk

NEVER MISS AN ISSUE...

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£20

‘VIOLET DE GOURNAY’: This is a top quality French heirloom variety that has long, tapering, dark purple roots with white flesh and very little woodiness. It produces strong, vigorous growth with a tangy, piquant taste both to the roots and leaves but is not overpowering. www.jandlseeds.com

‘Watermelon’

‘Mantanghong’, which looks pretty boring at first with its creamy white skin and green leaves. It’s not until you cut it in half that you are surprised by a bright pink centre which looks absolutely stunning sliced thinly in salads or sandwiches for a little crunch and heat. Similarly, ‘Watermelon’ has a coloured centre, which graduates to green and almost resembles a cross-section of a real watermelon (hence the name) and this has a lot milder taste, almost sweet with a slight radish kick. ■

‘RED DRAGON F1’: Quicker maturing and with a slightly milder taste than most. Earliest sowings are ready in 50 days. This variety is fully winter hardy, producing smooth, pinky-red skinned roots that are superb sliced in salads and stir-fries. www.thompson-morgan. com

‘GREEN LUOBO’: This is an amazing heirloom from northern China. A mild winter radish, this variety has distinctive bright green flesh and a green/white skin. It can be harvested young at 13cm (5in) or later up to 26cm (10in), turning hotter as it matures. www.realseeds.co.uk

ON PAGE 24 www.youtube.com/kitchengardenmagazine

GET COOKING

SEASONAL RECIPES

With beetroot, red cabbage and leeks on the menu, treat yourself to a feast of colour and flavour with Anna Cairns Pettigrew’s delectable introduction to the new year

XXX

A welcome burst of colour at this time of year. Serve as a side salad or in a pitta bread for a satisfying lunch.

SERVES 4 Preparation time: 15 minutes ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 red cabbage 3 clementines 1 little gem lettuce A handful of walnuts, chopped 1 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper

1. Thinly slice the cabbage and little gem, place in a large bowl.

2. Peel and chop the clementines (any spare juice can be poured on to the salad).

3. Pour over the oil and mix in the walnuts.

Season with salt and pepper and serve.

A fragrant Thai-style fish dish which is perfect with a crunchy side of cabbage slaw. You can make the curry paste in advance to cut down on prep time.

SERVES 4 Preparation time: 35 minutes Cooking time: 25 minutes THAI RED CURRY PASTE: ■ 1 tsp cumin seeds ■ 2 tsp coriander seeds ■ ½ tsp black peppercorns ■ 6 long red chillies, deseeded and roughly chopped ■ 4 ‘Bird’s Eye’ chillies, deseeded and roughly chopped ■ 1 lemongrass, pale section only, sliced ■ 5cm/2in piece galangal or ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped ■ 6 cloves garlic ■ 2 shallots or 1 small brown onion, coarsely chopped ■ 1 tbsp shrimp paste (optional) ■ 1 bunch fresh coriander ■ 1 tbsp vegetable oil www.youtube.com/kitchengardenmagazine

FOR THE SALMON: ■ 2 tbsp vegetable oil ■ 400ml/14fl oz coconut milk ■ 3 kaffir lime leaves, finely shredded ■ 2-3 tbsp fish sauce ■ 3 tbsp brown sugar ■ 4 salmon fillets ■ 1-2 tbsp lime juice FOR THE SLAW: ■ ½ red cabbage, finely sliced ■ 1 pear, sliced ■ 1 carrot, peeled into ribbons ■ 1 spring onion, chopped ■ 1 lime, juice of 1. Preheat oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.

2. Make the slaw by mixing all the ingredients together, set aside.

3. To make curry paste, place cumin seeds, coriander seeds and peppercorns into a small frying pan. Roast over a medium heat for two minutes or until fragrant. Place into a small bowl and allow to cool slightly.

4. Place remaining curry paste ingredients into a small food processor bowl, along with roasted spices.

Process until very smooth, scraping down the sides. Add vegetable oil to help with processing. Season with salt.

5. To prepare curry, heat oil in a medium, deep frying pan over a moderate heat. Cook three tablespoons of the curry paste for 1-2 minutes or until fragrant, then add coconut milk, kaffir lime leaves, lime juice, fish sauce and sugar.

Set aside.

6. Add salmon fillets to an oven dish that fits the salmon snugly, and pour over the curry sauce. Cover with a piece of foil. Cook for 20 minutes or until salmon is medium-rare and golden on the edges.

7. Remove from the oven and serve with rice and slaw. ➤

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GET COOKING

Very similar to a classic carrot cake, but without the mandatory cream-cheese frosting.

This rustic beetroot cake is perfect to enjoy with a relaxing cup of afternoon tea.

SERVES 8 Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 1 hour ■ 250g/8¾oz self-raising flour ■ 2 tsp baking powder ■ 1 tsp cinnamon ■ 150g/5¼oz soft brown sugar ■ 100g/3½oz dried cranberries ■ 50g/1¾oz walnuts, chopped ■ 50g/1¾oz sunflower seeds ■ 200g/7oz beetroot, peeled and grated (if the beetroot are woody, boil them for 10 minutes first) ■ 150ml/5¼fl oz ghee or sunflower oil ■ 2 medium eggs, lightly beaten ■ 3 tbsp milk

1. Preheat oven to 160C/fan 150C/gas 3.

Grease and line a 18-20cm/7-8in springform cake tin. Set aside.

2. Sift the flour and baking powder into a large bowl and stir in the soft brown sugar, cinnamon, walnuts and sunflower seeds. Add the cranberries and grated beetroot.

3. Whisk the oil and eggs together then add the milk. Add the wet ingredients to the dry.

Combine with a wooden spoon.

4. Spoon the mixture into the prepared springform cake tin and bake in the oven for 50 minutes to one hour, until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean.

5. Cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then turn out and serve with crème fraîche if desired.

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Roasting root vegetables caramelises them slightly and intensifies their natural flavours. Serve with couscous, as a healthy vegetarian main, or it could be eaten alongside a roast meat dish.

SERVES 4 Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes – one hour ■ 800g-1kg/2lb mixed vegetables such as potatoes, beetroot, carrots, celeriac, Jerusalem artichokes, squash, parsnips, red onions or shallots, kohl rabi, turnip or swede ■ 6 padrón peppers ■ 4 garlic cloves ■ 2-3 tbsp olive oil for drizzling ■ 1 tsp thyme leaves ■ Salt and pepper ■ 1 avocado ■ 3 tbsp natural yogurt

1. Preheat oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.

2. Peel the vegetables and cut them into 5cm chunks. Leave shallots, peppers and garlic whole.

3. Parboil the potatoes for two minutes, then drain. Put all the vegetables in a roasting tray in a single layer, add the garlic and drizzle with olive oil.

4. Sprinkle with the thyme and season well.

5. Place in an oven and roast for about 45 minutes to one hour, turning halfway through, until all the vegetables are tender.

6. Meanwhile, mash the avocado together with the yogurt. Once the dish is out of the oven, dollop with the mixture.

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XXX

A really easy dish to throw together and pop in the oven.

A really delicious pizza with leeks and olives and the unusual addition of green raisins give each bite a burst of sweetness.

MAKES 2 PIZZAS Preparation time: 1 hour Cooking time: 20 minutes FOR THE DOUGH: ■ 300g/10oz strong white flour ■ ½ teaspoon salt ■ 7g /¼oz sachet fast action yeast ■ 190ml /1⁄3 pint warm water ■ 1 tbsp olive oil FOR THE TOPPING: ■ 4 tbsp passata sauce ■ 1 tbsp sugar ■ 2 leeks, sliced ■ 3 tbsp large green olives ■ 1 tbsp green raisins ■ 1 ball mozzarella, sliced ■ 2 tsp oregano 1. Tip the flour, salt and yeast into a large mixing bowl. Pour over the water and oil and, using a spoon, mix together until you have a sticky dough.

2. Dust the work surface with more flour, then tip out the dough. Knead until the dough starts to feel elastic and smooth, about 10 minutes. www.youtube.com/kitchengardenmagazine

3. Clean and lightly oil the mixing bowl, and then return the dough to it. Cover the bowl and leave in a warm place until the dough has doubled in size, about 1-2 hours. (Or slow prove it overnight in the fridge, removing from the fridge 30 minutes before needed.)

4. To make the pizzas: preheat the oven to its highest setting and put a baking sheet in the oven to heat up.

5. Turn the dough out on to a lightly floured surface and knead for a couple of minutes to knock out the air, then divide the dough into two equal balls.

6. Roll and stretch a dough ball until you get a round, about 25cm/10in in diameter.

7. Making one at a time, lightly flour the hot baking sheet and put the rolled-out dough on it.

8. Mix the sugar into the passata and add two tablespoons of passata to the top of the pizza and spread it out to cover.

9. Next top with the leek, olives, raisins, oregano and cheese.

10. Bake in the oven for 12 minutes until golden at the edges.

SERVES 4 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes ■ 3 leeks, sliced ■ 1 tin chickpeas, drained ■ 1 tin baked beans ■ ½ cauliflower, chopped ■ 2 sticks celery, sliced ■ 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped ■ 1 tin chopped tomatoes ■ 400ml/14fl oz vegetable stock ■ ½ tsp saffron strands ■ ½ tsp smoked paprika ■ ½ tsp sea salt ■ 2 bay leaves ■ 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil ■ 1 tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped, for garnish 1. Place the saffron strands in a small bowl and add 2 tbsp hot water. Leave to steep for 10 minutes.

2. Preheat oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.

3. In a large casserole dish, place all the ingredients, including the saffron and soaking liquid. Give it a gentle stir.

4. Place in the oven and bake for 45 minutes.

Remove the bay leaves before serving. Serve with crusty bread or potatoes.

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GET GROWING

Grow tomatoes

galore!

This month KG editor Steve Ott offers his top tips on growing a UK garden and greenhouse favourite, the tomato

TOMATOES

I

t’s official! Brits love tomatoes. When it comes to growing and eating them, we think they are tops and there is hardly a greenhouse, patio or veg patch that won’t be home to at least one tub or growing bag bursting with them. Surely, only the Italians can lay greater claim to their love of these sweet ripe fruits – but then they have the sunshine on their side, while we battle on no matter what the weather and how bothersome the blight.

Look to the seed catalogues and you’ll be offered two basic types – greenhouse and outdoors – although some have roots in both camps.

Greenhouse crops can be sown early – from January onwards – giving them a long growing season to ripen heavy crops and protection from the weather and that dreaded blight. However, these tender crops need lots of light and heat, which in our climate makes them expensive to grow well in the early stages.

Those destined for growing outside can be started in March or April when natural light levels and temperatures are on the rise and greenhouse crops started at this time are easier to handle. I don’t start my cold greenhouse crop until March.

PROPAGATION

Stocky strong seedlings with healthy roots and a short space between leaves (nodes) are the aim and this does take some skill and attention to detail. Lashings of light and temperatures of at least 15C (60F) day and night are essential for good germination and to stop the plants from quickly becoming weak and stretched. If you can’t provide those conditions, simply sow later or even consider buying in ready-grown plants and let someone else do the hard bit!

If you choose to raise your own plants – which is great fun and gives you a wide range of varieties, including some very lovely heritage types – here’s what to do in easy steps.

1. Find clean pots or trays. These can be recycled plastic pots or cell trays, biodegradable paper or

Most gardeners start sowing in March when temperatures and light levels are naturally higher

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Tomatoes can be grown in the smallest of spaces

other plastic alternatives such as bamboo. I use 9-11cm (3½-4in) pots for although it means pricking out and disturbing the roots, it gives you the opportunity to bury the seedlings deeper if stems have stretched and takes up less room in the propagator.

2. Sow on to a good peat-free compost and sieve over more compost, vermiculite or sharp sand to a depth of 3mm (¼in). The latter helps to remove the hard seed coat from the seed leaves as they emerge.

3. Water well with tap water and label clearly, especially important if growing a number of varieties. Place in a heated propagator to provide at least 15C (60F), but 18C (65F) is better. Cover with a propagator lid or cut down recycled plastic bottle.

4. Your propagator should be placed in a bright position.

Stocky young plants are the aim

TOMATO FIRST AID

As mentioned, it is important with tomatoes to prevent spindly growth since this gives rise to weak plants which are less productive and which often miss the first truss, only setting fruit a long way up the stem. But if despite all your best efforts your seedlings and young plants become spindly, there are things you can do: ■ When pricking out (potting on) your seedlings, bury the stems down to the seed leaves.

■ Likewise, when potting young plants, bury the stems as far down as possible in the compost.

Tomatoes will then produce more roots from further up the stem and actually become stronger and more fruitful.

■ Very stretched larger plants can actually be planted sideways with their stems buried under the soil surface, the top 15cm (6in) or so of the plant kept above ground and gently supported.

Artificial lighting and heating allows for earlier sowing

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GET GROWING

It will soon stand upright in response to light and the stem will produce roots.

■ Alternatively, consider removing the excess growth so encouraging the plant to reshoot lower down or, in severe cases and if there is time, consider sowing again when natural light levels have improved.

GROWING ON

Once most of your seedlings have pushed through the surface, remove the covering and give them as much light as possible, while still maintaining a steady temperature. Watch for dry spots in the compost and water as necessary, preferably early in the day so that the plants have time to dry out before nightfall. Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them out into individual pots or cell trays to grow on, burying the stems so that the seed leaves just touch the surface of the compost.

Once pricked out the temperature can be dropped to a minimum of 10-13C (50-55F), again giving as much light as possible (the greenhouse glass should be free from algae, dirt and moss to allow as much light through as possible).

Pot regularly into larger pots until you reach 13cm (5in) diameter, each time potting on before the roots become thickly matted around the inside of the pot and before the

MarchMay

May-June

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Plant outside into well prepared soil when all fear of frost has passed

Growing bags were first introduced in the ’70s and were an immediate hit

plants become pale and growth slows. They are now ready to be moved into their final positions.

By now the frosts should be over in your part of the world (if not, hold the plants inside for a while longer) and if they are destined to be grown outdoors you will need to acclimatise them (harden them off) to life outside. This involves moving them out during the day and back inside at night for a week or 10 days before finally moving out permanently. This has to be done carefully as if it is too cold, the leaves of your plants will take on a blueish tinge, a sure sign that growth has been checked and this is to be avoided if at all possible.

preparing the soil by adding some well-rotted manure or garden compost in the winter. You can either dig it in or allow the worms to do the job for you. Under cover you may well have to soak the soil thoroughly if it has dried out over winter and I do this before adding 56g sq m (2oz sq yd) of general fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone and lightly raking it in or adding to the planting holes and backfilling. The same method is used for outdoor crops too.

You may instead decide to use growing bags or the larger tomato planters and both of these can give great results. Ordinary growing bags are not particularly big so I like to either plant into bottomless pots, which are pushed firmly into the compost in the bag. or to stand the bags on their sides and to plant into the side of the bag. The benefit of this is that it will give a little more room for the roots to travel down into the compost. You can plant two, or more usually three, plants per growing bag. Alternatively, large patio pots are perfect.

I also have some self-watering containers – pots of compost which sit over a reservoir of water connected via a wick of capillary matting.

These are great if you are away all day at work or when on holiday; growth is never checked due to a lack of water, and food can also be added when topping up.

PLANTING

Perhaps more than any other crop, there is an enormous range of products available for planting tomatoes, from self-watering kits to growing bags or of course planting straight into the border soil in the greenhouse or outside.

Tomatoes are hungry and thirsty plants and it is well worth

June-July

July-October

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TOMATOES

FAVOURITE VARIETIES

This is almost impossible since there are so many to choose from and varieties that are ideal for different uses. Here are just a few of my more recent favourites.

■ ‘SUNGOLD’: A highly popular orange cherry type which is very sweet, prolific and delicious in a salad or lunchbox. (Kings)

■ ‘HONEYCOMB F1’: A new orange-red cherry tom with a lovely sweet taste.

(Suttons, Pennard Plants)

■ ‘COSTOLUTO FIORENTINO’: Italian heritage beefsteak. Great for sauces, passata and soups.

(Mr Fothergill’s, Chiltern Seeds, Suttons)

■ ‘OH HAPPY DAY F1’: A great variety for indoors or out. Blight resistant with good flavour. (T&M, Plants of Distinction)

■ ‘SHIMMER F1’: Brown-red, striped cherry tom producing sweet, almond-shaped fruit with a lovely complex flavour. Good blight resistance. (Suttons)

■ ‘SUPER MAMA F1’: A Roma type. Very prolific despite its size. Can be grown indoors or out and is great for sauces and soups. (D T Brown)

■ ‘HONEYMOON F1’: Large pinky-red fruits produced in large numbers. Great for soups, passata or sandwiches. Good blight resistance. (Kings)

■ ‘CONSUELO F1’: A new cherry tom with great blight resistance. Long trusses of sweet but slightly acidic fruits which ripen all summer. (Pennard Plants)

Tomatoes grow very well in large pots

GET GROWING ESSENTIAL TASKS

Tomatoes are usually either bush (determinate types) that have a natural branching habit, or cordon (indeterminate) which grow upwards on one straight stem and require that any sideshoots are removed. This should be done regularly while the shoots are still small so as not to leave snags or to cause damage which may subsequently allow diseases to enter.

Staking, especially of cordon types, is essential.

Outdoors a strong stake should be put in place for each plant at planting time and this should be strong enough to support the plant when in full fruit and during windy weather. A wooden rose stake is perfect.

Inside in the greenhouse a bamboo cane or similar should be fine, but I prefer to support mine with a string tied at the base of the plant or buried under the rootball when planting and wrapped around the stem as the plant grows.

Take care not to pass the string just below a fruit truss or it may be damaged should the plant sag under the weight of the developing fruit.

Regular feeding should start when the first fruit sets on the first truss and a liquid tomato food or other high potash feed is usually recommended. Feed every 10-14 days or as instructed or I like to feed at every watering using the liquid feed diluted at half strength. In pots or baskets you can use controlled-release fertiliser pellets or plugs when planting and these will feed for the whole season.

De-leafing starts once harvesting begins.

This involves removing the oldest leaves from the base of the plant upwards to just above the truss which is currently being harvested and no further. This has the effect of helping to expose the fruit to the sunlight, so speeding ripening and allows air to circulate around the plants – especially important in the polytunnel or greenhouse. It also removes the oldest leaves which will be more of a drain on the plant than an asset.

The growing tip of outdoor plants should be removed once five trusses have formed to concentrate the plant’s energies on ripening the crop. Inside plants can be allowed to reach the eaves of the structure before being pruned.

Feed your plants every 10 days from when the first fruit sets

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Tie your plants regularly as they grow

HARVESTING Pick the fruit regularly as soon as it has ripened. I find the best way to do this is to push against the knuckle which forms above the fruit with the thumbnail and usually the fruit will come away easily without damaging the rest of the truss.

Excess fruit can be turned into delicious soups or passata, the latter of which is great as a pasta sauce or to top a pizza.

WATCH OUT FOR WHITEFLY: This pest often strikes from mid to late summer. Symptoms include tiny white moths that flit from leaf to leaf when disturbed and tiny scales under the leaves.

Infestations quickly develop and give rise to sooty mould, which soils the leaves and fruit below. Introduce the biological control Encarsia formosa when the first whitefly is spotted.

TOMATO BLIGHT: Often much more of a problem on outdoor plants where it spreads from potato crops. Infected plants should be removed and destroyed immediately.

The fruit will not store. Choose blightresistant varieties for outdoor growing; there are lots including some of the above.

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LAST WORD

For Sherry Bryan an article that appeared in the October issue of KG sparked off some fond memories of her childhood and her dad’s allotment

I

was delighted to be given a subscription me continuing the one passion we were able to to Kitchen Garden by one of my daughters share together. for Mothering Sunday 2020. What a Dad had an allotment during my growing up, wonderful gift, which I avidly read from and I remember him wheeling my little brother cover to cover each month. I keep all the free in the wheelbarrow the mile or so to his plot from seeds in a shoe box and have enjoyed planting our newly built house, and then later that day some this year, and eating the proceeds. As a returning with a wheelbarrow full of produce. passionate and fairly new allotmenteer, I find Both my brother and I can remember the plenty to interest me in every issue. However, mountains of delicious tomatoes and rhubarb and the October issue was particularly exciting for other vegetables we enjoyed as a family. me as it took me right back to my childhood.

But the reason I write is because in your I have recently retired from my work as a October issue of KG you featured the very vicar, which I’ve carried out for nearly 30 years allotment site that we both knew so well. here in Cornwall. Now that I have more time, Dad was one of the first to gain a plot on the I can devote many happy hours to Longmeadow Allotments at Shard End my allotments, just over the in the ’50s. I was therefore thrilled road from our cottage. I to read about the “Plot Saving “What a thrill have often looked back Mission” of Dave Taylor, who to my childhood in to think that the together with others, has the Midlands and taken on the job of clearing place where our to my father who the site after years of father used to was responsible for neglect. I even know well instilling my love of the site he had previously dig is going to be gardening. I’m sure been on at Minworth, as productive once that though we did not I used to ride my ponies again!” always see eye to eye, he past it as a teenager. What a would be delighted to see small world, and what a thrill 98 | www.kitchengarden.co.uk

to think that the place where our father used to dig is going to be productive once again!

Well done to Dave Taylor and to Nigel Jewkes for a fascinating and inspiring article. Dad is long gone, but he would be so pleased to know that the work at Longmeadow continues. And as I dig away in my Cornish allotments, I like to think he’d also be pleased to see that his once rebellious daughter is following in his footsteps.

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