Where Paris November 2016 by Morris Media Network

NO V E MBE R 2 0 16 ®

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 274

PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION

PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE

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the Fashion Capital

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DRIVE DE CARTIER L ARG E DATE , RETROG R ADE SECON D TI M E ZON E AN D DAY/N IG HT I N DICATOR 19 04 - FU MC THE DRIVE DE CARTIER COLLECTION IS ELEGANCE REDEFINED. THE SLEEK LINES OF THIS CUSHION-SHAPED WATCH CREATE A TRULY STYLISH PIECE, BROUGHT TO LIFE BY THE MAISON MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904-FU MC. ITS THREE COMPLICATIONS ARE COORDINATED DIRECTLY BY THE CROWN. ESTABLISHED IN 1847, CARTIER CREATES EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES THAT COMBINE DARING DESIGN AND WATCHMAKING SAVOIR-FAIRE. # D R I V E D E C A RTI E R

PARIS 8e - 14, rue de Berri TÃ©l. 01 45 62 62 45 - www.elysees-horlogerie.com

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November PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

PARIS | CONTENTS

The guide 26 SHOPPING

The latest trends and the hottest fashions 58 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 72 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 84 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and bars 94 NAVIGATE

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings NO V E MBE R 2 0 16 Issue N o 274

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION

PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE

PRINTEMPS CLIMBS

Hot Dates

The Perfect Vintage of Alain Ducasse: 1956

This month’s calendar of must-see events

Meet the famous French chef

Time on all Sides We take you on a tour of the city where time stands still

NOVEMBER 2016/#274

the Fashion Capital

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ON THE COVER

Printemps Cover Photo © Arnaud Pyvka Model is wearing a BA&SH dress available exclusively at Printemps

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Welcome to Paris

THE TEAM | WHERE PARIS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 EDITOR Sandra Iskander* GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

ART EDITOR Shelley Varley DESIGNER Grant Pearce PRODUCTION MANAGER/LONDON Melanie Needham

He is one of the most renowned chefs around the world and in this issue our very own Alexander Lobrano meets the extraordinary Alain Ducasse who shares with Where his passion, his drive and of course his love of food. The French capital is home to a staggering 109 sundials and in our Time on all Sides feature we take you on a tour of some of the more famous ones as well as take you to the Clock Room in Versailles and Opéra Bastille where you can discover the seven metre-long clock donated by Vacheron Constantin. Our fashion shoot is also inspired by time, bringing collectors the latest offerings from our favourite luxury houses. For our readers who are craving a hit of culture make sure you turn to our Arts & Attractions section where we have rounded up the mustsee exhibitions taking place this month. A highlight is the Oscar Wilde exhibition that is taking place at the Petit Palais, celebrating the life and talent of the celebrated writer. Meanwhile, in our Dining section foodies will find the latest offerings from the culinary capital with tables to savour fine, French cuisine as well as contemporary fare showcasing the talents of the city’s chefs. And in our Entertainment section a Cuban circus, a group of magicians and a troupe of breakdancers are only some of the fun shows taking place this month around Paris and on our pages. We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

SENIOR PRODUCTION ASSISTANT & RETOUCHER Jennifer Bourne PRODUCTION ASSISTANT & RETOUCHER David Weeks CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* DESIGNER AND PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

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Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2015). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: novembre 2016. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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November

HOT DATES Discover the best of November in Paris

Shark Attack Through to November 15th Get your kids out of the cold and get them to the Aquarium de Paris to discover the underwater world of sharks. The exhibition retraces the evolution of sharks from being predators to becoming prey due to climate change and overfishing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01 40 69 23 23

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PARIS THIS MONTH

Winter Wonderland november 17th to 20th

French Bread © Emilie Burgat; Winter Wonderland Photo © VIANNEY Thibaut - Agence Zoom

Saint-Germain-des-Prés is turning into a winter wonderland for four days only with almost 40 chalet stands and even an ice-skating rink being set up around Place Saint-Sulpice to give visitors the ultimate ski resort experience. Neighbouring streets including Rue des Canettes and Rue Princesse are also getting into the spirit with bars and restaurants taking part in the festivities.

The Art of French Bread November 5th Learn how to bake bread and impress your friends with your new skills by reserving yourself a spot in today’s Atelier du Pain (bread workshop) at Le Cordon Bleu Paris’s new locale. 13-15 Quai André-Citroën (15th), 01 85 65 15 00 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 11

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A Magical Evening NOVEMBER 5TH Looking for a little more magic while visiting the City of Light? The first Saturday of November and December the Plaza Athénée will be hosting Dîner Secret, an evening of fine dining and magic. In the hotel’s elegant Haute Couture salon magician Stefan Leyshon will perform his incredible tricks while Alain Ducasse’s talented team serve a three-course dinner. Reservations are required. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 30 39 20 77

Monet’s Garden If you are lover of the Claude Monet’s work make sure you visit his home and its beautiful gardens, which inspired some of his most famous works, before they close for the winter on the 2nd, reopening again next year. 84 rue Claude Monet, 27620 Giverny, 02 32 51 28 21

Monet © Eric Sander

NOVEMBER 1ST TO 2ND

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PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs November 3-6 SALON PHILATELIQUE D’AUTOMNE The autumn stamp show brings together 60 stamp dealers from France and abroad and is one of the leading European stamp shows. This year the Netherlands is the guest of honour and eight European post offices will be present including Monaco and the Vatican. The show is open from 10am to 6pm and until 4pm on the 6th. www.cnep.fr Paris-Espace Champerret Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th)

November 6-10 EQUIP’HOTEL This trade show brings together everything for professionals in the hotel and restaurant industries. Some 1600 exhibitors are on hand presenting everything from food products, furniture, tableware, architecture, swimming pools and more. Conferences, workshops and new concepts and innovations round out the agenda. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 10th. www.equiphotel.com Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

November 10-14 SALON DE LA PHOTO

november 6th to 10th If you have ever wondered what it would be like to get around a hotel room if you were blind, deaf or in a wheelchair then a visit to the Senses Room booth at the Equip’Hotel trade show will be quite the interesting stop for you. Showcasing their design concept for hotel rooms to accommodate clients with all different needs, Senses Room has set up a suite where visitors can partake in a virtual tour to experience how much easier it is to get around with an improved design of a room. Refer to our Trade Shows & Art Fairs round-up for all the information on how to get to the trade show.

Night-time Art all month If you are looking for something to do after dinner head to the Palais de Tokyo. Open until midnight every day the exhibition space is a perfect art rendezvous after a day spent discovering the city. Among the exhibitions currently held is the Tino Seghal show, which will see a selection of the artist’s major works brought to life with dance, speech and song. 13 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01 81 97 35 88

Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

November 11-13 FOTOFEVER This art fair devoted to photography and the visual image brings together over 75 French and international galleries showcasing photography, digital art and video. The show is geared towards collectors and it organises a Start to Collect programme featuring a guide to collecting, conferences and a selection of works priced at under 5000€. The show is open from 11am to 7:30pm and closes at 6pm on the 13th. www.fotofeverartfair.com Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)

November 18-21 SALON MES CREATEURS JOAILLIERS This jewellery fair showcases the arts and crafts techniques used in French jewellery-making. Some 20 exhibitors will show the pieces that they design and create themselves in France. Unique, made-tomeasure and Made in France are hallmarks of their creations. The show is open from noon to 7pm on the 18th, from noon to 8pm on the 19th and 20th, and from noon to 6pm on the 21st. www.mescreateursjoailliers.com Hôtel de l’Industrie 4 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th)

Tino Sehgal Photo Courtesy Asad Raza

The Sixth Sense

This show is devoted to the latest evolutions in photography and is geared for both amateurs and professionals and offers encounters with leading photographers working in the field. Exhibitions, conferences and the awarding of prizes are all on the agenda. This year the major exhibition is devoted to the French humanist photographer Jean Marquis. The show is open from 10am to 7pm and closes at 6pm on the 14th. www.lesalondelaphoto.com

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BOUCHERON - BUCCELLATI - CHAUMET CHOPARD - DE GRISOGONO - FRED - MESSIKA

Tel: +33 (0)1 42 89 89 88 www.elysees-horlogerie.com

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By Patricia Valicenti

The Perfect Vintage of Alain Ducasse: 1956 By Alexander Lobrano

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Interview

Alain Ducasse Portrait © Patrick Tourneboeuf; Restaurant Photos © Pierre Monetta

he table inside the glassed-in alcove is set with white-napkin-lined silver baskets of gorgeous freshly baked pastries, fragile golden croissants, brioche with pink icing, and raisinstudded pinwheel pastries, but Alain Ducasse leaves them untouched. He doesn’t explain himself but my guess is that someone whose palate is their principal professional tool dismisses them as extraneous. You see, Ducasse is a man who tastes more than he eats everyday from dawn to dusk, and this year, the one in which he celebrated his sixtieth birthday, has been an exceptionally busy one even for an exceptionally busy man. He opened Champeaux, a vast modern brasserie in Les Halles, the old market district in the heart of Paris this past Spring, and, in a project that’s a source predictably muted by still very palpable pride and joy, Ore, a new restaurant at the Château de Versailles in midSeptember. He’s also published several new cookbooks, and needless to say, he has a raft of other projects in the wings, including the list of

the 100 best bistros in Paris he’s preparing for the Paris Tourist Office and a restaurant in Los Angeles on Wilshire Drive. At 9am on a recent Indian summer morning, I’m his second meeting of the day in the impromptu office he’s created from the chef’s table, the single and much coveted behindthe-scenes table inside of the kitchen of his eponymous restaurant at the Plaza Athénée hotel in Paris. The well-groomed silver-haired man, who today is arguably the most famous chef in France after Paul Bocuse, looks up and cocks his head with a smile that is both wry and shy when I join him at the table. Fiercely selfdisciplined and always on message, he’s one of the easiest men in the world to interview if for no other reason than the fact that he is so omnivorously curious. I’m eager to talk about his just opened restaurant, Ore, at the Château de Versailles, but Ducasse has other ideas. The visitor who proceeded me in the space known as “l’aquarium” was the president of TripAdvisor, the well-known and frequently

controversial Boston-based consumergenerated travel-ratings website, with whom Ducasse had been discussing the future of geolocalisation. What this means is new ways of meshing the known behaviour of a consumer with his or her exact location so that someone who has contributed to TripAdvisor in the past might find themselves receiving an SMS with a list of nearby restaurants similar to those they’ve indicated they enjoyed in the past as they were walking down the street at noon. “This convergence of consumer behaviour, media and mapping will become the new frontier for restaurant marketing,” Ducasse observes enthusiastically. Though he’s an acclaimed chef and a formidable businessman, Ducasse’s life force has always struck me as being his insatiable desire to learn more, know more, try everything, and push out the walls. He’s a man who won’t be cooped up, a very private and rather elusive person with a distaste for small talk and social niceties but an archer’s perfect aim in terms of what’s important in any situation, financial or w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 17

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gastronomic, and what should happen next. A large measure of the intrepidness some interpret as egotistical can surely be attributed to the gruesome airplane accident he suffered as a young man, the four passengers in the small plane were killed and he spent thirteen months with his limbs suspended in midair over a hospital bed while he healed and underwent some thirteen different operations. I’ve always attributed his essential steeliness to a childhood spent on a farm in south-western France in a family of modest means. The elegant man with tiny navy blue initials, A.D., sited in the middle of a midriff covered by an expensive white cotton shirt, mentally wobbles, very briefly, when I ask about the origins of his gastronomic vocation. “The points on the compass of my palate are those memories of things that were so delicious I could never forget them. Many of them go back to being a child in the country, my grandmother’s cooking, the taste of things that had been brought in from the garden just an hour earlier. We ate according to the seasons, and we ate what we grew. There was no waste, but there was such a universe of tastes,

smells, and textures. I don’t think I ever really understood how well we actually ate until I left home and went into a world where not everyone has a garden or keeps chickens,” says the chef, who left home at the age of sixteen to do an apprenticeship in a local restaurant, Le Pavillon Landais in Soustons, before the Ecole Hôtelière de Talence near Bordeaux. “This is what I’ve never forgotten, too, because the product is the only truth. A turbot without a stroke of genius is better than a genius without a turbot,” says Ducasse with a bemused look on his face, perhaps because for him this article of culinary truth is just so obvious. His first taste of the glamour that might be associated with a culinary career occurred in 1975 when he went to work for chef Michel Guérard in the elegant spa town of Eugénieles-Bains. After two years there, he moved to Moulin de Mougins in 1977 to work for Roger Vergé. Handsome, hard-working and extremely observant, Ducasse fell in love with Provencal cooking and also the sunny palmy life-style of La Côte d’Azur, which was a long way from the isolated rusticity of Les Landes, that vast stretch of forest and moors in south-western

France where the natural fragrances of life are most often leaf mould and manure instead of lavender and truffles. So even if he’d been born a campagnard, the French word for a rural hick, he’d use the same skills needed to create a great sauce, timing, confidence, a natural sense of good taste, patience, unflagging attention, and persistence, to transform himself into a man of the world. Another professional pirouette, and Ducasse went to work for the late chef Alain Chapel in Mionnay outside of Lyon. Though he’s reticent about his past and sparing of praise, Ducasse acknowledges that it was the gustatory exigency he learned while working for Chapel that first gave him a nascent idea as to what his own cooking style might become. Ducasse went to cook at L’Amandier in Mougins, where he’d been recommended by Roger Vergé, and began to attract the attention of his colleagues. Following a lunch cooked by Ducasse in 1979, chef Jacques Maximin, told fellow chef and tablemate Franck Cerutti, “This guy is going to become a star.” Maximin, a spectacularly talented chef who’s hugely admired by his colleagues but lesser-known to the general

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public, was right, too. Ducasse moved to the palmy Hotel Juana in Juan-les-Pins, and by 1984, he’d won two Michelin stars. Suddenly everyone was taking note of the young chef, including Prince Rainier of Monaco, who in 1987 invited him to create a gastronomic restaurant at the celebrated Hôtel de Paris in the principality. The goal, of course, was for this new table, Le Louis XV, to win three Michelin stars. Thirty three months later when Ducasse was just 33, Bibendum’s benediction occurred in 1990, when the Louis XV became the first hotel restaurant to ever be awarded three Michelin stars. And the rest, as they say, is history. Ducasse, who acknowledges that his default social response is “impatience,” and admits to two character flaws, “I am greedy and curious,” was suddenly on a roll, and because his motto is “Savoir-Faire, Faire-Faire et FaireSavoir”(which roughly translates as, expertise, implementation, and teaching how), he’s rarely looked back. In 1995, Ducasse, now blossoming as a businessman as well as a chef, opened his country inn, the charming La Bastide de Moustiers in the Gorges de Verdon, the rugged

back country of Provence, the kitchen here won a star in 2002. By 1996, however, he set his eyes on a larger and even more challenging target. Paris. He took over the former premises of Joel Robuchon’s restaurant in the Avenue Raymond Poincaré, renamed it Alain Ducasse, and 1997 he won three Michelin stars here as well. Within a few years, Ducasse was president of Groupe Alain Ducasse, a company with an estimated capital of $50 million that was buying and opening restaurants and hotels, often in association with other partners, creating concepts, and running a hotel association, Châteaux & Hôtels, and a cooking school. When his New York restaurant at the Essex House hotel won three Michelin stars in 2000 despite having been panned by many New York restaurant critics, Ducasse became the first chef in the world to have three restaurants with three Michelin stars at the same time. Today, his realm runs to fifteen restaurants in Paris, including several historic restaurants like Benoit, Allard, Rech and Aux Lyonnais that might not have survived had they not been taken into Ducasse’s stable, and restaurants everywhere

from London to Las Vegas, Monaco to Tokyo. There have, of course, been some failures, like his attempt to create an enduring French haute cuisine table in New York, where the Ducasse flag flies today only above the excellent local branch of the celebrated Parisian bistro Benoit. Michelin’s opinion notwithstanding Ducasse’s restaurant in the Essex House never found a following among New Yorkers, while joint ventures in Tunisia and Tuscany ended for business reasons. But it’s always what comes next that interests Ducasse, who is planning a restaurant for the Gare Montparnasse in 2017 and who has become fascinated by the challenge of feeding larger numbers of people well in places like train stations or airports. Since Ore, Ducasse’s new restaurant at the Château de Versailles, proves that it’s possible to offer quality cooking at varying price points all day long, I tell him I wish he’d open a restaurant or two at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris where the gastronomic offer is mostly a franchise and fast-food outlet embarrassment to a country as renowned for its gastronomy as France. He nods. “You should tell the president w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 19

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of Aéroports de Paris [Paris Airports],” he says with a grin. “I remember when there was a branch of Maxim’s at the airport and you could have a really good meal before you got on your plane. There’s no doubt we need something like that again today, especially since people often have so much time after clearing security.” He’s been signing a copy of his new cookbook, Nature: Simple, Sain et Bon (Nature: Simple, Healthy and Good) while we’ve been discussing airport restaurants, a sign that our hour-long conversation, a generous slot from such a busy man is ending. In fact, his driver is waiting for him, he’s late, he must go, and we shake hands, he does. As I’m packing up my things, I toy with the idea of eating one of the gorgeous brioche with rose-coloured icing that has been tempting me for the last sixty minutes, but in deference to Monsieur Ducasse, I exercise some rare self-restraint when it comes to things edible. In the bus on the way home, I muse on

our chat. For a very public figure, Ducasse is that rarest of modern personalities, someone who keeps his private life private and who only offers a rather crenelated and carefully curated glimpse of his psyche as the man he has become. You rarely see him in the “celebrity columns” unless he’s announcing a new project of some stripe or another, and those who’ve worked closely with him adhere to both a public respect for his vast talent and capacity for work and a wary omerta that prevents them from commenting on the man himself. The French food press often finds Ducasse enigmatic and rather exasperating, but I’ve always ascribed this sullenness to a very Gallic disdain for other people’s success. Still, where it all lands in the end is in attempting to understand what makes him do it, the perpetual work, endless travel, relentless selfexigency. If it’s often said that the reason most chefs cook is to make love visible, there’s more to it than that for Ducasse.

He doubtlessly wants to be admired, and, perhaps even in spite of his deeply wary world view, liked. And as someone who has known him for almost thirty years, I might surprise a colleague or two by saying that the man himself is actually eminently likable, especially these days when you can almost sense his deserved if reserved pleasure and bemusement at the wealthy, influential worldly man he has become. Not only does the wily old peasant he still probably thinks of himself as possibly have a couple of gold bricks buried in his garden somewhere, he’s found a place for himself in the history books as an arbiter of good taste, and for any good Gaul, that’s just about the ultimate personal apotheosis.

Ore Château de Versailles Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles First floor, Pavillon Dufour 01 30 84 12 96

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TIME ON ALL SIDES By Patricia Valicenti

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The Laudator Temporis monumental clock at the Opéra Bastille. © Vacheron Constantin

Time & Culture

ime is never far away in Paris, if you take the time to look up, down or over, for time and time keeping isn’t new to the town, it has long been a part of the city’s culture. No less than 109 sundials can be spied on walls and facades of churches, monuments, private homes, courtyards and in the gardens of all of the arrondissements of Paris with the possible exception of the 17th. They initially served to tell the time of day by the apparent position of the sun in the sky and later were used to regulate watch and clocks to solar time. Some of the capital’s sundials date back to the 17th century like the one on the Lycée Louis le Grand on Rue Saint Jacques at number 123 or on a more modern note down the block at number 27, where the whimsical sundial done by Salvador Dali in 1968 is found. A walk down Boulevard Saint-Michel and over

the bridge brings the stroller to the sundial on the Tribunal Correctionnel and to the magnificent clock on the Tour de l’Horloge (the watch tower) on the Ile de la Cité, which has been keeping time for Parisians since the 14th century. Commissioned by Charles V, it was the city’s very first public clock and it remains one of the most spectacular in the capital with its azure blue and gold fleur-de-lis details. And just a short walk away, the Swiss watchmaker of legend AbrahamLouis Breguet had his dwelling and workshop on the fittingly named Quai de l’Horloge (the watch quay) on the Ile de la Cité between the Pont au Change and the Pont Neuf. The Quai was built over the 16th and 17th centuries and was once home to wig makers. Breguet would set up his watch workshop at number 39 back in 1775 and he would become world renowned through his various inventions like the tourbillon.

Meanwhile, the fascinating story of Breguet is played out in a museum dedicated to the house on the first floor of its Place Vendôme boutique. Here conserved are the precious archives of the brand, notably the sales registers tracing the history of each piece produced since the end of the 18th century. Some one hundred exceptional pieces manufactured by the house are on display including precious old tourbillions, chronometers from the 19th century, when Breguet was the clockmaker to the Royal French Navy, alongside travel pendulettes and rare, elaborate pieces made for the Turkish court in spectacular enamel and gold. The museum is a unique journey into the emblematic creations of the man who probably created the first known wristwatch, for the Queen of Naples in 1810, and from whose workshops emerged timepieces for Napoleon, MarieAntoinette, Tsar Alexander I and King George IV. w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 23

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The Swiss watchmaking house of Longines has also recently opened a museum in the Parisian capital above its new store on the Right Bank. Ensconced in a VIP salon of warm wood and leather, some ten exceptional pieces fashioned by the manufacture are on display retracing the history of the house including one of the first Longines movements dating from 1869, an 18-carat gold pocket watch from 1907, one of the three pieces on display to have won the Grand Prize awarded at Universal Exhibitions, and an 18-carat gold chronograph dating from 1940. Short films recounting the house’s history and current events are projected in the space and also on display is a re-edition of the Longines Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch, which was conceived by the celebrated aviator Charles A. Lindbergh with

Longines in 1931 and re-released with a limited edition of 75 pieces in 2002, 75 years after his historical Trans-Atlantic flight in 1927. And on the first floor above its Rue de la Paix boutique, Piaget has opened up its Piaget Polo S Lounge to admire its latest men’s watch collection over a glass of champagne and a culinary chocolate creation from French chef Jean-François Piège, the collection’s ambassador. The muted lounge has been especially re-decorated for the occasion as a private circle. A virtual digital experience is on the agenda as well with a 360° total immersion, via a headset, into a polo field. Traveller-filled train stations, too, have proved to be another backdrop for clocks in Paris. An intriguing “clock” in the capital is the accumulation work by the French artist Arman in front of the Gare

Saint-Lazare. Entitled L’heure pour tous (time for all), the work is an accumulation of bronze clocks. The clock tower of the Gare de Lyon train station dates back to 1901 and rises 67 metres into the Parisian sky. Its intriguing cube shape houses a watch face with a diameter of 6.4 metres on each of its four sides. The handsome clocks of the Musée d’Orsay are vestiges of the structure’s original vocation as a train station that was completed in 1900 and whose trains departed in the direction of southwestern France. Right down the street from the Musée d’Orsay a stunning exhibition is being played out at the Galerie J. Kugel where some 30 automaton clocks of the Renaissance are on display. The stunning pieces represent a pivotal combination of the arts of sculpture and horology and take the visitor into

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The clock of the Musée d’Orsay. Photo © 169 Matthew Pullicino; The 14th century clock on the Tour de l’Horloge on the Ile de la Cité. Photo © iStock/stocknshares

Opposite page: The Breguet museum on the Place Vendôme. This page (clockwise from top left): The clock at the Musée d’Orsay; The 14th century clock on the Tour de l’Horloge on the Ile de la Cité; Chocolates recalling a polo ball by Jean-François Piège at the Piaget Polo S Lounge

a menagerie of exotic animals of lions, camels, elephants, bears and monkeys. Every hour the magical, mechanical menagerie of clockwork goes into motion and the animals open their jaws, stick out their tongues, raise their paws or swing their tails from side to side while their eyes move to the rhythm of the clock, coming to life some 400 years after their creation. Though animals dominate the kingdom, a few humans are on hand as well including a Turkish horseman swinging his sword and lion and bear tamers pulling on leashes. Meanwhile, one of the most famous timepieces in the world is found in the Château of Versailles in the Clock Room. The extraordinary astronomical clock was presented to Louis XV of France, who took a great interest in clocks. And a stunning clock is to be found inside of the Opéra Bastille Opera

House. The monumental wall clock was donated to the French National Opera by the Swiss house of haute horology, Vacheron Constantin. Baptised Laudator Temporis, the spectacular clock, seven metres long, two and a half meters high and weighing in at two tonnes embodies the house’s know-how. Conceived by the Neuchâtel artist and painter Ivan Moscatelli, the work is made up of 56 mouth-blown stained glass windows made by the master stained glass window maker Werner Weyhe of Lausanne. It colourfully represents a map of the world made up of clocks telling the exact time in 10 of the world’s capitals, among them New York, Los Angeles, Moscow, Beijing and Rio. The work was inaugurated in 2007 and installed over a five-day period, during the night from 1am to 10:30am, so as not to disturb the performances.

Breguet 6 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 47 03 65 00 Galerie J. Kugel Exhibition through to November 5th 25 Quai Anatole France (7th), 01 42 60 86 23 Longines 16 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 45 22 00 16 Opéra Bastille Place de la Bastille (12th), 08 92 89 90 90 Piaget Polo S Lounge Open through to November 15th 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 58 62 37 00 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 25

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The Guide

Shopping

By Sandra Iskander

For Her | For Him | Timepieces | For the Home | Grooming for Him

Light up your home with Diptyque’s latest collection of candleholders (page 42)

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Shopping For Her

Roland Resort He is the designer behind the Galaxy dress that was worn by every celebrity and socialite around the world, notably Victoria Beckham, and now Roland Mouret’s resort 2017 collection is sure to attract more to his fan base. Monochrome colours with sharp and graphic cuts create the collection that will see ladies move from summer nights to cooler evenings with elegant ease. The collection embraces asymmetrical lines and digitallyprinted detailing and features key statement-making pieces including a raspberry-red dress that is sure to make a pop at cocktail parties. Available at Printemps

Tracking Fashion Feel the wind in your hair and the glamour of driving down the coast in your Mercedes-Benz cabriolet with Found, Maison Kitsuné’s limited edition capsule collection of accessories celebrating the carmaker’s new car. The collection includes a scarf, available in two colours, white and blue, and a handmade panama hat, and with the fashionable pieces fitted with a chip you can track them thanks to an app that will make sure you will never lose your hat or scarf to the wind again. Mercedes-Benz Gallery 118 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 83 00 53 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 27

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Going Marbles Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975 where she embarked on creating colourfully original pieces. Today, she has her gallery-like jewellery boutique here in Paris where you can find her unique designs. And her latest collection, Marbles, does not stray from her quirky and original designs when it comes to statement pieces. Inspired by, as the name suggests, marbles, the collection features baubles in hues of blue, black and grey, which delicately hit each other with every move, recalling the joyful sounds of the game. 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01 40 39 01 51

Welcoming Autumn in Colour

The moon and the stars will find their way to your wrist this month with Dodo Paris’s dream-filled charms. The moon crest and twinkling stars delicately hang from a rose gold bracelet that makes a beautiful gift, no matter the style, from rock chicks to ballerinas, who doesn’t like a glowing star? Adding an extra luxurious sparkle is the moon crest, which is available in black or white diamonds, making sure that with every wave a twinkle is glimpsed.

Orange really is the new black at luxury brand Akris. The current collection sees the autumnal colour rule everything from sleek knee-high boots to warm knitted dresses. The warm shade works beautifully to ease you from summer to winter while keeping your wardrobe fresh and striking. The collection also features shades of deep burgundy and black with accents of leather and velvet for the ladies who are big believers that black will always be the new black.

Dodo Paris Boutique 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 31 55

Akris Boutique 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 20 47 49

To the Stars and Back

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Shopping

For Him

Colourful Steps Ladies aren’t the only ones who get to walk in colour this season with J.M. Weston’s new colourful range of footwear giving stylish gentlemen a rainbow of colours to choose from. The footwear brand’s 281 Le Moc grained leather loafers now come in paprika orange and curcuma yellow, giving the classic design an original accent, injecting a little bit of colour to traditional footwear. You can discover the other colours that make up the collection at the brand’s new Parisian boutique, on the iconic Avenue des Champs-Elysées. J.M. Weston Boutique 50 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 62 26 47

Time Approved Dominique Siby, the founder of luxury brand Felio Siby, is the bad boy of watches, he breaks the rules, makes new ones, and all along creates extraordinary timepieces that only a select few can get their hands on. Named after his father, the brand is focussed on luxury items. “I remember the first watch I liked was a Cartier watch, I like the finest things in life and I think the finest things in life come with a price tag,” Siby confesses. First launching a ready-to-wear collection then a leather goods line, Siby launched his watches. Designing Felio Siby watches was a natural step for the founder. “I started the watch line because I believe if you are a true gentleman and you love your fashion there is no other accessory you can wear. Men are judged by their watch, you can dress like a bum but by your watch people will know who you are,” he declares. “I have always loved watches, my Dad is the one who introduced me to watches. My first watch was like everybody’s, a Swatch. I have a lot watches and the one I love the most is a watch my dad gave me, a Rado, it was the most expensive piece I had at the time,” he confides. Swiss-made, Felio Siby watches are intertwined with Siby’s love of sport. “I love sports, I love Formula 1, I see similarities between car-racing and timepieces, the precision is so important for the two and having a Formula 1 brand ambassador [Felipe Nasr] is amazing for me, I always wanted to be associated with that sport,” he says. Weighing only 80 grams, the Felipe Nasr watch is made of a Vaucher Manufacture automatic movement with a power reserve of 50 hours and features a diamond in the top left hand side corner of the dial, giving the lightweight timepiece a sparkling detail. With all Felio Siby watches, the Felipe Nasr model is available only upon approval, with clients requested to simply fill in a contact form on the brand’s website. www.feliosiby.com

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Shopping Fashion

About

time

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Photographer: Nicolas Receveur & Michael Mohr Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Make-up and Hair Stylist: Alan Quiaba Model: Christopher Michaut from Bananas Models Special thanks to Nolinski Hotel

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore watch Eden Park boardshorts

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Rolex Cellini Date watch Dior t-shirt

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de Grisogono New Retro watch Huawei P9 phone De Fursac shirt and jacket

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Chaumet Dandy watch Azzaro Paris shirt and suit Hilditch & Key bowtie

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Wempe Chronograph watch Ron Dorff sweatshirt

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Gucci GG2570 watch Oliver Spencer pullover Huawei P9 phone

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Cartier Drive watch Azzaro shirt and suit Hilditch & Key bowtie

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A. Lange & Sรถhne watch Eden Park shirt and jeans

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WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

CHRISTMAS DREAM at Printemps

he famous department store, which elegantly stands on boulevard Haussmann in the bustling 9th arrondissement of the French capital, is already getting in the Christmas spirit.

Dehix and the Printemps creative teams. Designed like an artistic show with each window representing an act of a play, the

windows are carefully crafted, with hair and make-up artists, painters and model makers all playing a part in making the windows come

Listed as a historical monument, Printemps is a drawing card to all visitors to the French capital with one million visitors alone passing by the department store every year to see the extravagant window displays. To celebrate Christmas 2016, the windows on boulevard Haussmann will be lit up and animated thanks to the expert hands and enthusiasm of the puppeteer Jean-Claude

6. 5.

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WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

alive to celebrate the festive season. Working around the story of two children, Jules and Violette, waking up in the middle of the department store in the middle of the night, the windows are dressed with magic and a lot of imagination. Jimmy Choo, David Yurman and Bonpoint are this year’s major partner brands injecting the store’s windows with fashionable glamour. The ChooGirls, the group of fashionistas Jules and Violette spot dancing are beautifully dressed in Jimmy Choo accessories while the jewellery box found by Violette is bursting with David Yurman jewellery, and Cerise, the tightrope walker, who helps the duo fly off the moon and who takes them on a tightrope walk is elegantly dressed in Bonpoint.

And of course these fashionable brands are not reserved only for the characters in the windows with a David Yurman pop-up store installed at the main entrance of Printemps offering shoppers exclusive designs available only at the store. Bonpoint will also be setting up shop in the atrium of the main store on boulevard Haussmann where the children’s ready-towear brand will be showcasing an exclusive collection designed especially for Printemps. And naturally Jimmy Choo has also gifted Printemps with exclusive designs including a “Cloud” clutch bag and a pair of very sparkly stilettos.

64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00 www.printemps.com

(1) Clutch €3,350 (2) Bag €1,250 (3) ‘Avril’ stilettos €3,495 (4) ‘Romy’ stilettos €525, all Jimmy Choo exclusively for Printemps. (5) Musical animated teddy bear €55 (6) Composed outfit €175, all Bonpoint exclusively for Printemps .

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Shopping

For the Home

Night Cap Designer Thibault Pougeoise, who has previously worked for Estée Lauder and Bang & Olufsen, has collaborated with Habitat, the home décor specialists and has designed La Lampe Funky. The desk lamp is both a practical element as well as a fun design object that sees a simple light bulb-shaped lamp dressed in four different styles of hats, from a sunny yellow floppy hat to a red newsboy cap. The lamp is sold with the four hats, letting you dress your office or room according to your mood of the day. Habitat Boutique 8 rue du Pont Neuf (1st), 01 53 00 99 88

Unique Homeware In the forever evolving neighbourhood of the Marais is where you will find the recently opened Empreintes store. Focusing on promoting French artists, the concept store showcases over 1000 original and at times one-of-a-kind pieces made by French designers in their respective ateliers. Sprawled over four floors the store specialises in home décor with pieces resembling more works of art than practical objects for the home, giving shoppers here a sense of shopping in an art gallery. The store also boasts a café and a library, as well as a jewellery store-in-store where you will find handmade jewellery pieces. Empreintes Store 5 rue de Picardie (3rd), 01 40 09 53 80

Synonymous with candles, Diptyque has given homes all around the world a delicate scent, giving at once a cosy ambiance and a signature smell to each home. Now the masters in candle making have embarked on dressing the rest of your living space by releasing a new collection of throw pillows, to make your home even cosier. Part of the 34 Collection, the pillows feature abstract designs, inspired by the French house’s archive prints. And bringing it all together the house has also released a collection of new candleholders to nestle your favourite scented candle in, including the Carrousel Photophore that is made up of suspended birds, which slowly turn from the heat generated from the candle. Diptyque Boutique 34 blvd Saint-Germain (5th), 01 43 26 77 44

Empreintes Store Photo © HerveTernisien; Cartier Photo © Cartier

At Home with Diptyque

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Shopping

Grooming for Him

Signature Scents Three new fragrances for three masculine styles, we break down the notes and match each scent with a gentleman. Cartier’s new L’Envol de Cartier eau de parfum is a sweetly musky scent with notes of honey and patchouli, creating a fragrance for a traditional gentleman who spends his time in the boardroom. Black violet, lavender and cedar wood are all notes that are brought together in the new Roberto Cavalli Uomo eau de toilette. Oozing a strong and captivating scent, it suits every gentleman who is a bohemian creative type. Vodka on the Rocks by Kilian is a refreshing scent capturing the freshness and coolness of coriander and lily of the valley and which is rounded out by the sweet smell of roses. Sweet, fresh and intoxicating it captures the essence of a man in a power suit Monday to Friday and in sportswear at the gym on the weekends. Cartier Boutique 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 58 18 23 30

Roberto Cavalli Uomo Available at Sephora

Kilian Boutique 20 rue Cambon (1st), 01 40 39 94 14

Getting Physical Work out your frustration on the courts at the exclusive gym, Front de Seine, where you will find the city’s best squash courts. Open daily, the gym boasts four squash courts, giving members and non-members the space to thrash their opponents after a day in back-to-back meetings. The gym also holds boxing classes for those looking for an outlet that is both empowering and that offers a great full-body workout, leaving you to enjoy a glass of wine and cheese guilt-free while in the French capital.

Empreintes Store Photo © HerveTernisien; Cartier Photo © Cartier

44 rue Emeriau (15th), 01 45 75 35 37

Grooming on the Go Gentlemen, you too need to take care of your skin even when travelling, and that’s why we love Marionnaud’s Men by Marionnaud line of skincare. Formulated with gentlemen in mind the collection includes everything needed to keep your skin looking good and youthful. For men who are constantly travelling the Boarding Set is a must on your packing list. With a shaving cream, cleansing gel and a daily cream, the set is everything you need to make sure your skincare routine isn’t forgotten while travelling. Available at all Marionnaud boutiques w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 43

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SHOPPING

Timepieces

TRAVELS WITH TUDOR By Patricia Valicenti

world of wide-open spaces, adventures, explorations and expeditions unfolds with the watches of the Swiss brand Tudor. Robust, precise and durable, they’ve gone to harsh lands, like Greenland, beneath the sea and have been worn by divers of the U.S. and French navies. “For several years, I have studied the possibility of making a watch that our distributors could sell at a lower price than our Rolex watches [but] that was worthy of the same traditional trust. So I decided to create a company in its own right to fashion and sell this new watch. The company is called Tudor Watches,” said Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, and the brand was registered 90 years ago in 1926. A landmark date for the company was back in 1952 when the Tudor Oyster Prince, whose hallmarks were resistance, reliability and precision, was introduced. That same

year 26 of these watches participated in a British scientific expedition organised by the Royal Navy to Greenland underscoring the watch’s robustness. The company introduced diving watches in 1954 with its Oyster Prince Submariner, which was waterproof to 100 metres. Diving watches, outfitted with a screw-down back and large hour markers and hands with luminous material for easy reading in deep water, would become a specialty of the brand and for over 45 years the Oyster Prince Submariner would evolve and adapt to the requirements of the company’s diver clientele, becoming waterproof to 200 metres in the 1950s. In 1969 its iconic, highly readable snowflake hands were introduced and the Oyster Prince Submariner would also be adopted for periods of time by among others, the French National Navy and the U.S. Navy. Today, Tudor’s Heritage Black Bay and

Pelagos models, waterproof to respectively 200 and 500 metres, carry on the diving and adventure-filled traditions. In 2015, the Pelagos, which means the deep in Greek, would be the first to be outfitted with an officially certified (COSC) movement made in-house at Tudor. The Pelagos is tested in conditions specific to extreme diving in places around the world including Lake Geneva near Tudor’s headquarters. Tudor also fashions the Heritage family notably with the Black Bay Dark Black Bay and the Black Bay in blue, red and black and outfitted with a new movement manufactured by Tudor. Also on hand is the new Black Bay Bronze, which draws its inspiration from the burnished patina of old ships and diving suits. Tudor watches are available at Chronopassion 271 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) 01 42 60 50 72

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Depuis 1970

Throughout the year, Espace Cachemire offers clients a prestigious space where exceptional collections of cashmere, silk, leather and accessories, the best prices are found.

For ladies

children a

, gentlem

en,

nd for th

e home.

101 rue RĂŠaumur 75002 Paris Tel: 01 42 36 68 53 - Parking Lot Bourse Metro Sentier (Exit Rue du Sentier)

www.cachemire.com

For over 40 years Espace Cachemire has been offering clients the finest materials whose origins guarantee authenticity and quality.

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Address Book

shopping

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris aCCEssoRIEs Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Le Carré d’Encre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th), 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine Vertu - 18 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.56.66. M° Madeleine

bEautY sPas & PRoduCts Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Espace Weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lampe Berger Paris - 61 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.42.02.69.78. M° Saint-Sulpice Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

ChILdREN’s CLothING & toYs Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries Kids Around - 113 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01.45.05.19.50. M° Victor Hugo Miki House - 366 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. M° Tuileries

Tikibou Toy Store

| Children’s Clothing & Toys

Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

CLothING: mEN & WomEN Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 27 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.30.18.72. M° Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt DSquared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. M° Concorde Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Fendi - 51 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.49.52.84.52. M° Franklin Roosevelt Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Marina Rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. M° Madeleine Mettez - 12 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.65.33.76. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Y’s Yohji Yamamoto - 25 rue du Louvre (1st), 01.42.21.42.93. M° Etienne Marcel

dEPaRtmENt stoREs & shoPPING CENtREs

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (1st),

09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

EYE WEaR

Francis Klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th),

01.44.07.04.28. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

FabRICs: CoutuRE

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

homE

Baccarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. M° Boissière

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),

01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

JEWELLERY & WatChEs A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

| Clothing: Men & Women

46 WHERE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2016

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shopping

Address Book

Damiani ©Esterno

Anna Rivka - 27 rue de Richelieu (1st), 09.81.04.61.53. M° Palais Royal Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Château Euphorie - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.49.52.09.14. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Gas Bijoux - 26-28 rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Opéra Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Opéra Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde

Damiani

Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st) , 01.40.20.21.00. M° Opéra Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire

Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V

Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries

Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th),

01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau Tumi - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.45.79.70.30.M° Concorde

muLtI-bRaNd boutIquEs

LINGERIE

Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard Montaigne Market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

shoEs

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

LuGGaGE aNd baGs

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Fauré Le Page - 21 rue Cambon (1st), 09.82.50.92.30. M° Madeleine Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde

| Jewellery & Watches

Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Arche - 11 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01.40.15.91.85. M° Madeleine

Cesare Paciotti - 12 ave Montaigne (8th),

01.47.23.75.57. M° Alma Marceau Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Galet – 8 rue de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.54.56.24. M° Odéon Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

Château Euphorie

| Jewellery & Watches

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LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

•

ofle •

RUE ROYALE

•

MA INES

APUC

DES C

RUE

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

• AV

de iso l’A n m br e •D id •An ier •Q L na R ee ud i lin ot vka

L’O

Palais Royal

• Ma

• • • • • • • •

rre Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

•

Pie

•

RUE DU LOUVR E

•

• •

All Saints Y’s

Bonpoint IRO

Christian Louboutin

Hartford

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

by Terry Xavier Lust

Maje

’AB

• • •

Place des Victoires

Galerie Véro-Dodat

0039 Italy

• • • •

RUE DE RIVOLI

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

RUE VIVIENNE

Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : 01 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

RUE DE VALOIS

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

• De Fursac

RUE RICHELIEU

Galerie de Montpensier

Musée du Louvre

Acaba•

PALAIS ROYAL

Francesco Russo

ÉR

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

’OP

• PYRAMIDES

Galerie de Valois

Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

L DE

•

RUE DE RIVOLI

• RedLine Printemps du Louvre

•

E NU

CIN

•

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

FreyWille

SHOP STOP

Opéra Garnier

Lamarthe

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

•Nodus •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

Chemins• Blancs

RUE DE LA PA IX

RUE SAINT-ROCH

•Cotélac

Vendôme

ONORÉ

Carrousel du Louvre

RUE S A IN T -H

13-15 Galerie de Montpensier, Jardin du Palais Royal - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 40 15 07 98 M° Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre www.amber-paris.com

RUE S A IN T -H

Place

•Dodo Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka • •Moynat TUILERIES •Lyubov Jack Russell • • Perrin • Burma •Stuart Weitzman Ami • • Balenciaga Manoush• Montagut Kiehl’s • • Place du Marché • Saint-Honoré Barbara Rihl • • Saint Honoré Colette •M.A.C Chantal Thomass • Notify• Peuterey • • Paraboot La Prairie • The Kooples •

•

Goyard •

•Dubail

IG LI ON E

SHOP STOP

16 rue Royale - Paris 8 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

RU E CA MB ON Max&Moi • • • RU E • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • CA MB ON •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger • Messika• Tommy • Coach Morabito• Hilfiger • Alexander McQueen Chloé• • Emporio Armani Ports • Marc Jacobs • 2 DsQuared • •Miki House Tumi• Arije Bally • J.M. • • Wine Weston Chopard RU E CA ST by One •

In the very heart of historic Paris this unique specialized amber store pleasantly surprises you with its diverse and exceptional designs of amber jewelry. All items are made exclusively of highquality natural amber.

•

Jamin Puech Hedgren

LEI

• Barrie

CA MB ON

LA MAISON DE L’AMBRE

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling • Lipault

Hublot • Chronopassion • Maje• Parakian Paris •RU E

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

•

Le Jacquard Français

Césaire

•

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Carel • Swarovski

Marella

WEMPE

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

Église de la Madeleine

•

■

MADELEINE

•

Jeu de Paume

RUE ROYALE • •Vertu Wempe • Lancaster • Tory Burch • Max Mara

• Oliver Grant

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE DE RIVOLI

■

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

Musée de l’Orangerie

Poiray • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

•Lanvin •La Perla •Ermanno Scervino •Prada Chanel Gucci Dior • ••

Espace Cachemire

•

rist Ch

CONCORDE

•

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai

Burberry

•

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

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If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

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LUXURY MAP Vendôme SHOP STOP

Gare Saint-Lazare

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT-LAZARE

Passage du Havre

HAVRECAUMARTIN

BOU

OT D

N ARTI CAUM

•

I AR D VI

• •

R U E ÈD OU

•Gant • •

Bucherer

Montblanc

•

Boggi

•Bally • • • IKKS

Hackett

EL OU

Tommy Hilfiger

Waskoll A. Lange Omega • • Christofle & Söhne • Harmont • Repetto E U & Blaine Mauboussin R • Lalique Cartier Harrison • Piaget • • Diesel Hugo Boss • Bodum Panerai • Jimmy Choo X •Dinh Van I IWC • PA Burma Alexander McQueen Wine by One • Van Cleef • L A • E • Lery • Louis Vuitton & Arpels • E D • Breitling Emporio Armani U Jaquet Droz R • Cartier • Dior Bvlgari Dubail • Anshindo • Miki • •Vacheron Constantin •• Graff House • Diamond’s • • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger•Boucheron • • R UE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Kusmi Tumi • S Blancpain • A N O Tea • de Grisogono VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU • • ST Breguet • Hublot RU • Zadig & ED FreyWille Dior Patek Philippe Place du Marché ES Voltaire PE • Saint-Honoré TIT M CA

C AP

UCI

NES

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

D’

-H

TIN

•

Montagut • • Dodo RU Moynat Richard • ED • U M Grand ON • • Balenciaga T Paule Ka

T LLE JUI 29

L HU

H OC S

DE MI

ES RU

ED U

D’A

-H

EM É

E IÉR UD

E RA PY

•

T-R

Penhaligon’s • Mulberry •

Tourist Office • PYRAMIDES

Acaba RU

ET HÉ

RÈ

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

Perrin •

S-C

NE IO GL

Piquadro

• • •Valérie Danenberg Missoni Honoré •Saint •Ami ••M.A.C • Bonpoint Colette

• Frank Namani

• Jovoy

-H

-TH

•

H.Stern Arije

41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 www.acaba.fr

Lancel

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

•

At Acaba, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will suit you. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. The 2015 collection comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very classic close to quite specials. 11am to 7pm. Closed on Sunday.

RUE MOG ADOR

Tag Heuer

• • • Samsonite • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty •Basler

•

Les Marquis

ACABA

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

SHOP STOP

•

• Episode

Golfino

RUE

•

RUE

GOD

• Fragonard

13 bis Rue des Mathurins - Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 84 19 43 26 www.lecarredencre.fr

•

Sephora

DES

Le Carré d’Encre is a prestigious space where you can find the largest selection of stamps, postcards and paper in France. This boutique offers a rich selection of Made in France souvenirs and it is also the only place where you can personalise your stamps.

Opéra Garnier

INS

RUE

THE HOUSE OF STAMPS

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

J.M. Weston•

HUR

Exaltation Lana di Capra

Mario Dessuti

•Zwilling

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

MADELEINE

MAT

RUE BOUDREA U

• Loding

Église de la Madeleine

DES

VIGN

AUR

CH ON TR E

RUE

•

Le Tanneur

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

Le Carré d’Encre

• Fauchon

U EA

Paraboot•

LEV

•

SHOP STOP

Galeries Lafayette Homme

Andrea

URIN

IBE

ATH

ES CR

ES M

DE CA RU ED

RUE

’AR

L DE

P R O V EN

• Moda di

RU E JO UB ER

Guerlain •

RUE DE

•

VICTOIRE

ADOR

Printemps Beauté-Maison

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

LA RUE DE R U E JO U B ER T

Printemps Mode

MOG

Printemps Homme

RUE

RU E DU HA VR

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

Galeries du Diamant •

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CACHEMIRE

Authenticity, Elegance

Handmade

APERTURE OCTOBRE 2016

Â©KBelouaar

1 Rue Auber 75009 Paris

A u t h e n t i c i t y. elegAnce

Handmade

1 rue Aubert - Paris 75009

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LUXURY MAP

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

Leica •

Steiger

OÉT OÉT IE

NORÉ

SAINT-AUGUSTIN

UÉP

AN N

BOUR

RUE

RUE D

U FAU

INE

ATHU

DES M

RINS

RUE D

PASSAGE

ES MA T H U R IN

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO

RUE D S

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

•

E SÈZE

•

Omega•

INES

•

Bucherer

APUC

Lacoste •

• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch Basler • INE

DES C

Hackett •

RUE

EVA

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

•

Tommy Hilfiger

Wine by One

Place Vendôme

RUE D

Hedgren

•Tom Ford N • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger • Coach • Alexander McQueen • Emporio Armani • Marc Jacobs • Miki House

IG LI O

•

RU E CA M BO

EIN

F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el

DEL

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

T H U R IN

Lavinia

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

ES MA

NORÉ

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

SSM

UÉP

•Guerlain

• Barrie

NE • Burma Ciro pour

• Eres • Swarovski

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling

R U E CA ST

RUE TRONCHET

•

Marina Église de la Madeleine Rinaldi Lancaster • • •Gianfranco Lotti • Marella • Max Mara Kenzo VA

• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • J.M. • Arije Weston •

•

Wempe

ULE

RUE DE RIVOLI

Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Maje •

Yamamoto

247-251 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 86 54 66 www.dsquared2.com

•

L ’A R C

MADELEINE

Valentino •

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

Césaire•

• Yohji

With a renowned reputation for quality and Italian craftsmanship, Dsquared2 designs, manufactures and distributes highly desirable products such as men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrances for men and women.

ROQ

• Royal Poiray Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

•

Jardin des Tuileries

•

RUE ROYALE

CONCORDE

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla Ermanno Scervino Longines Prada Escales Pinko Chanel Dior Gucci • • • Ralph Lauren

• •• • • • •

Lanvin

•

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

Place de la Concorde

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

DSQUARED2

’

RUE

RUE DE SURÈNE

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

SHOP STOP

O AST

BLV

INE

RU E DE DU RA

MANN

ÉS

ROQ

ÉR

RUE

B AM

• Sotheby’s G TOR • Burma D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • •Bally •55 Croisette •Burberry Capelstore •Brunello Cucinelli Hogan • Ermenegildo U Zegna ’A N J O RUE D Lancôme • • • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Glashütte Original • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Dandys • • Crockett Chanel • Boucheron • &Jones Tod’s • • Givenchy IE R U Q S A • RUE P Cartier • Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette •

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

R D H A U SS

• Loriblu

B O U LE VA

ESN

• Miu-Miu • RUE D Caron ES US

ESN

IÈV

NT-HO

ESN

G SAI

MIR

RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

SHOP STOP

E ED

Élysée Palace

MIR

14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde - Paris 8 Tel: +33 (1) 44 94 01 74 www.crockettandjones.com

E ED

•

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

OÉT

Azzaro • Vhernier • E F.P. Journe

Pierre Cardin

•

Gratianne Bascans

•

A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the english luxury brand for mens and ladies is committed to maintaining the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship, and custom-made service.

CIER

•

AVE NUE DE MATIGN

L DE

PER

NUE

IRQU

AVE

CROCKETT & JONES

DU C

RUE

OÉT

•

MATIGNON

Puiforcat

Richard Mille Cifonelli E

• VENUE D•

• Christie’s

MIROMESNIL

• Emanuel Berg • Sothys

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

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BESPOKE SHOES SINCE 1932

www.waltersteiger.com

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LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées-Montaigne

SHOP STOP

LLOT

EM AR AV EN U

Dinh Van • Hugo Boss

•

NUE

Ekso Watches

•

Kenzo

• Swarovski • Bang & Olufsen • GrandOptical RUE BALZAC

•

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

1 ER

ÇOIS

FRAN

RUE

DOR

OCCA

DU B

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RUE

ALBERT

RA UE F

OU JO N

1ER

AVE

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

• Marionnaud Paris • Marks&Spencer RUE

DE B ERR Elysées I Shopping

Elysées Joaillerie

•

•M.A.C. •Levi’s •Furla •Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE

LA B

OÉT

• Chanel • J.M. Weston • RUE DU

• •

Elysées Horlogerie

RUE DE PONTHIEU

COURS

57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

• Cartier

Montblanc

LIS Disney ÉE

• Quicksilver Château Euphorie

•Galerie 26

•Adidas • Banana Republic • Weleda • Les Champs d’Or AVEN

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

ATIG

NON

NFÉRENCE

Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.

GEORGE V Louis • IKKS Vuitton•

CEA

Armani Collezioni JP Gaultier PIER • GE V • Lacoste • RE 1 ER DE S OR Omega • ERB E GE U IE N Eric Bompard• AVE • Bvlgari Ellie • Dubail • Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • • EA C • • R A Christofle Creed M Altan Bottier RUE UE Les Suites • • EN AV Arije• • PIE• RRE CHA Cartier •Givenchy Kusmi Audemars • RR Scabal Arije ON • • Chaumet Tea • Piguet •EORGE V Beretta G E Dubail U • Paraboot N Paule Ka E • Burma• AV RUE M• • Sicis • RUE Carvil ARBEU F P •Tom Ford IER•R EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE •Balenciaga RON DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • A TR R • Vionnet É U M By Marie&Gas Bijoux E M• • Smalto OILL A E Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain Karl Graf • • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld ALMA MARCEAU Zadig&Voltaire • Caron• Valentino Paul&Joe • Wine by One • • AVE • Thomas • Harry N UE M Bonbon Watch • Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O • Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello IGNAN Lampe Berger E E MAR Cesare Paciotti Cucinelli• Paris RUE D Joseph• • Nina Ricci • Giorgio Armani • FRANKLIN • Maison Ullens Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo NU Akris Chanel • E MON • Givenchy TAIGN • Fendi • Chanel • E • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Chloé• • Van Loewe • • •Marni Pucci •• ••• Ralph Lauren Dolce&Gabbana Gucci Jil Sander Blumarine LT EVE S.T.Dupont OOS Elie Saab • LIN D.R PORT DE LA CO

BERETTA GALLERY

•

• Milady

E AV

AVE

SHOP STOP

CA EN AV

U CEA

Lancel •

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

SANO

RUE

E BAS

A EDL

JEAN GIRAUDOUX

RUE D

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

NA D’IÉ

AVE

FRI

ALILÉ

AHO

RUE G

50 avenue des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 62 26 67 www.jmweston.fr

NU AVE

’IÉ UE D

AC M

NUE AVE

Galerie-Musée Baccarat

M NUE

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

Publicis Drugstore •

RUE DE CHAI

J.M. Weston, master shoemaker since 1891, cultivates a quintessentially french elegance with its iconic models, such as the famous 180 loafers. The brand opened in October 2016 its latest shop on the Champs-Elysées. J.M. Weston settles in the cinema Gaumont Ambassade in order to propose a unique customer experience to discover the collections in a movie set.

AVE

SHOP STOP

J.M. WESTON

Arc de Triomphe

Place des États-Unis ■

ALILÉ

DOUX

19 rue François 1er - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 47 23 72 00 www.thomaspink.com

RUE G

AVENUE KLÉBER

RUE JEAN GIRAU

THOMAS PINK Created in London on the mythical Jermyn Street, this shirt maker draws its inspiration from the legendary 18th century tailor Thomas Pink. It proffers an exceptional line of shirts and accessories and offers a semi-tailoring service for your shirts. Thomas Pink is a modern house, offbeat, bringing together quality, originality and a way with details in the purest of British traditions.

ISTO

FOC

Fabio Caviglia•

LAUR

NUE

RUE

AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

AVE

AV Marina • ENUE VIC Rinaldi TOR

NUE

AVE

IN NKL

EVE

OOS

D.R

FRA

Grand Palais

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Saint-Germain SHOP STOP

ÉRES SAIN

•

TS-P

DE B

NEU

RUE

VER

DES TS-P DES

R TE

RUE BON A PA

DRA

GON

S PA IL ARD RA

RUE

RU E DE CO ND É

RUE DE L’ODÉON

RUE DE SEINE

RUE MA BIL LON

RUE PRI NCE SSE

RUE SERVANDONI

VÉ RI L’A R

RUE FÉROU

Jamin • Puech

RU E BO NA PA RT E

ASS

RUE MAD AME

ARN

RUE DE TOURNON

NES

REN

DE RUE

NES

NTP

REN

Montparnasse

RUE DES CANETTES

E RU

Église Saint-Sulpice RUE MÉZ IÉR ES

▼ DU

• Rive Gauche

MONTPARNASSEBIENVENÜE

Tikibou Toy Store B V DE DG A

•

ES SA RU E D’OD

5 rue de Tournon - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 40 46 02 90 / www.emaldi.fr

• Rowena Forrest

BVD

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

E-M

IDI

RUE BON APAR TE

RUE MA DAM E

RUE

RUE DE LA CH

DE R

A IS E

ENN

• Guerlain

S PA IL ARD RA

BOULEV

• Wolford

Fashionable, elegant and extremely flattering: Eleonore Emaldi’s ready-to-wear collections are all created with luxurious, high quality fabrics for the ultimate in comfy-chic. Made in Italy, they represent all that a Parisian woman would adore, from day to evening and all occasions. Visit our intimate boutique for a chance to meet the designer and have her personally choose something elegant for you to wear.

•

Poiray Inédit Joaillier • Liu Jo BO Christian • U • Façonnable L E VA RUE • Cremieux • • Louboutin DE L RD Louis • ’A B SAI • Agent B AY Repeat NTVuitton E Sonia • • Provocateur GER • Rykiel • M • AIN The Brunello Cucinelli Slowear • Burberry SAINT-GERMAIN Hugo Ralph Store Emporio • Voyeurs • • Paul Smith • Boss Lauren DES-PRÉS Armani Paul & • Ami BOU • Shadé • Césarée Joe • • • LEV L.K. ARD Stefanel• Cartier SAIN • Céline Bennett Lancel T-GE • RMA Ferragamo Rolex• Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON • • Hackett• Crockett & Jones Alexis Mabille • Montblanc • Kenzo• Gas • Paraboot • Bijoux • • J.M. WestonUR Saint Laurent• L’Ibis Rouge • Vicomte A • • RUE DU FOSilk & • • Cashmere Sportmax• Prada • • Tod’s Marina Rinaldi IKKS • Max&Moi •DVF • U FOUR Sir Gentleman La Perla • Alain Mikli • D • Driver Durance RUE M.A.C.• Dot-Drops • • Repetto Le Mont Implicite Omega Lampe S Berluti • • • Berger Paris Saint Saint Michel ÉVRE • DE S Swatch • • E U RUE DE BABYLONE • R • Agnès b Laurent • Longines •Derhy Camper • • RUE SAINT-SULPICE SÉVRES-BABYLONE Longchamp • • Eléonore • Hermès Emaldi Robert • E IC Galet • LP U Clergerie -S SAINT-SULPICE Zadig ST E U R Le Bon Loxwood S & Voltaire E My Tokki • • Marché S É V R

•

ELEONORE EMALDI

Gab&Jo

•

Francis Klein • Faienceries •• de Gien Emaux de Longwy Fabrice

BOULEV

SHOP STOP

EJ AC

RU E MA ZAR INE

Debauve &

RUE

RU E DE SEI NE

ÉRES

Elsa

• Vanier

• John Lobb Gallais • Bang DS • & Olufsen AI NT Edward Green • -G Zadig & Voltaire Roche Bobois• ER MA • Karl Lagerfeld IN • • Aubercy

61 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 02 69 78 www.lampeberger.fr

A PA R BON RUE

Escales •

▼ • JLC Opticien

LAMPE BERGER PARIS

RUE

•

Poltrona Frau • Silvera

Hartwood • Deyrolle The Kooples

RUE

RUE DU BAC

As beautiful as it is useful for exhaling a cleaner and more fragrant air, the Lampe Berger is available in an incredible variety of styles, designs and materials in order to meet every individual’s desires.The collection today is made up of around a fifty lamps and fragrances.

E E AU N

ITÉ

Maje •

Gérard • Darel

LTA I

SAIN

SHOP STOP

Ofée . •

•

LIL

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.mydotdrops.com

IVE

RUE

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

DOT-DROPS

•

ED EL ’UN

DU B

RUE

Renaissance •

Moissonnier

• Aga

RUE

Santiago Lomelli•

E AU V

DE B

LIL

DU B

RUE

Musée d’Orsay

UIN

VAU G RUE DE

IR A R D

Jardins du Luxembourg

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LUXURY MAP Le Marais

SHOP STOP

A IR E

YM E

CALV S

VIEIL

RUE

DE THORIGNY

RUE

LE TEMP

RUE DES ARC HIV ES

RU E DU PA

RUE SA

RC RO YA L

IN T -G IL

LES

LE DU

RUE PAY ENN E

▼

RUE PAVEE

RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE

DE TURENNE

S É V IG N

LHE

MIRON

ARLEM

AGNE

Village Saint Paul ■

• Melodies Graphiques • Calligrane • Les Exprimeurs PONT MARIE

RUE SAINT-PAUL

Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier •

RUE CH

• Iki •Pierre Boisset

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

ANÇOIS

RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE

RUE RUE DE LOBAU

RUE

RUE DU TEMPLE

Place des Vosges

Bobby Brown Kiehl’s Swatch L’Occitane

SAINT-PAUL Sentou

•

RIVOLI RUE DE

HOTEL DE VILLE

RUE

•

VI GN É RU E SÉ

VIEIL

•

RUE

Nicolaï

Millen Karen i Parma Acqua d tyque Dip in Guerla

Mi-Mai • Ambali • RUE BARBETTE Manoush • • Jamin Puech Musée Cognacq-Jay Officinal Slowear • Aesol ■ • ➞ • Paul & Joe Marionnaud Paris RUE DES Penhaligon’s FRANCS BO • Chanel URGEOIS Ted • ■ Musée • Carhartt • •Esteban Baker Fragonard • Carnavalet RUE DES Repetto • • FRANCS BO • URGEOIS • Barbara •• •• ➞ Iro • Michael • • Essentiel • Bui Uniqlo Aubade Kors •• • • J.M. Weston Eres a •TEAUX RUE DES BLA NCS MAN d a o e • Bimba y Lola &S iT rry oth Fusalp • • • sm Pe Sc u d Maje Devernois K • • • Alain Mikli Maison • re Créa Concept L’Argenterie Francis Kurkdjian Wolford • •RFU • Cos E de Turenne D ES Lipault RO • • SIERS • • Heschung• • • • Moustaches All Saints RUE DU PLATRE Durance Cire Ugg Paule Ka RUE DE JARENTE Huygens K.Jacques • • • Trudon Thomas Sabo• Masha J.Crew Vicomte A • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE • Carven Keja • • Gucci• •John Galliano • Fleux Lacoste • • Mode en Thierry Villenave Nike RUE D'ORMESSON Givenchy Crockett • Karl • Valentino • ILE • • Demeure Le BHV Marais • & Jones Lagerfeld • • Moncler RUE DU ROI DE SIC • • l’Homme Chevignon E • Fendi T- AN TO IN • RU E SA IN Paraboot RUE DE LA VERRERI E Psyché

Le BHV Marais

7 rue des Blancs-Manteaux - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 71 76 76 www.franciskurkdjian.com

M IN E

TEMP

LE DU

TO NG E

RU E DE SA IN

CH AR LO T

RUE DES ARC HIV ES

RU E

RUE DU TEMPLE

PE RL E

•

Our fragrance house, eponymous of one of the most celebrated perfumers of our time, offers a full collection of fine fragrances, sketched like an olfactive wardrobe. Our creations are crafted with attention to details and in the purest heritage of luxury French perfumery.

COM

EL LE R U E D EB

RU E CH AR LO

RUE DU TEMPLE

Centre Pompidou

RU E DE LA

RIVOLI RUE DE

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN

SHOP STOP

ENN

82 rue des Tournelles - Paris 3rd Metro: Chemin Vert Tel: +33 (0)6 48 62 47 74 Instagram: aux_tresors_de_babeth

Gloss

T O IS S A R JLC Opticien Le Slip RUE FR • de APC • Cuisse Les Prairies de Paris • Français • Le Labo grenouille • Merci • X Atelier Oska • CHOU Ami • Lords&Fools P O N T A U X Cologne • • • U French UE D SAINT-SÉBASTIEN R Sandro• Helmut • Trotters FROISSART • Lang Florian • ITOU Robinson Denicourt Christophe • DE PO Les Bains A U D E• Lemaire RUE • Gant •-CL • Pas de Jack Gomme • A I N T • Calais • APC S E Stephane Sonia U Marcel by R Wooyoungmi Verdino • Rykiel Cheap • • Customellow • Monday • Louis Quatorze Nice• Eclectic Tom Vanessa Bruno • • Things • Greyhound • Les Petites •James •Mr • Bonastre • Le Mont Saint Michel Fred Marzo • Aux Trésors La Fée de Babeth Maraboutée ■ • RU E DE S 4 Consuelo FI LS Musée National Picasso • Zoelly TUR

AUX TRÉSORS DE BABETH A few steps away from the place des Vosges. Cosy vintage boutique: luxury costume jewellery, accessories and women's clothing. Chanel, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, YSL. First class shopping. English and Spanish spoken. Delivery at your hotel and worldwide shipping.

UD RI ET TE

Maison

• Kitsune • Melinda

E E D

RU E DE S HA

White Bird • Bonton•

SHOP STOP

• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty • Pierre Meurgey

•

RUE PASTOURELLE

S DU

RU E CH AR LO

RU E DE PI CA

RU E DE CA FF

• DE

•

État Libre d'Orange

Paul Smith

ENN

106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

FILLES DU CALVAIRE

Monsieur Paris • Mes Demoiselles •

ILL

AG NE

Liquides • April 77

UR E T E D

RU E DE BR ET

LOUIS QUATORZE

13 Bonaparte Isabel •NOR• MA Marant ND • Ron Dorff IE • March La.B Popelini •

RD IE

AR EL LI

•

Verreries de Brehat

La Boutique Extraordinaire •

•

RU E PE RR ÉE

ENN

The Broken Arm

TUR

RUE DU TEMPLE

E E D

Carreau du Temple ■

Empreintes •

Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.

RUE

F IL L E

UAR

THO

DES

ETIT

RUE

DU P

▼

RUE

RUE DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE QUAI DES CÉLESTINS

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The Guide

arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti

Discover the Musée de l’Armée (page 64)

Dôme des Invalides Photo © Paris, musée de l’Armée/ Anne-Sylvaine Marre-Noël

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Exhibitions

The Fabulous A highly visual and aesthetic exhibition awaits at the Galerie de L’Instant. The show brings together great fashion models and great designers all photographed by great photographers. The leading names in fashion photography and in just photography are all here, among them Herb Ritts, Richard Avedon, Paolo Roversi and Peter Lindbergh. The pictures are striking and at times haunting. Kate Moss, statuesque in the lens of Bruce Weber, Naomi Campbell, sculptural by Herb Ritts, Ina in a quintessential East Hampton setting by Jeanloup Sieff along with an anonymous portrait of a big-eyed Twiggy looking the perennial school girl are all being showcased, as well as a superb shot of Yves Saint Laurent, besuited and elegant as ever with bolts of fabric, captured by Dominique Berretty. Showing all month 46 rue de Poitou (3rd), 01 44 54 94 09

Kate Moss, 1996 © Bruce Weber/La Galerie de L’Instant; Malick Sidibé, Nuit de Noël, 1965 Courtesy Collection agnès b.

Dôme des Invalides Photo © Paris, musée de l’Armée/ Anne-Sylvaine Marre-Noël

arts&attractions

Dense Diversity An exhibition of remarkably diverse works and fittingly entitled Vivre ! (Life!) is on display at the Musée National de l’Histoire de l’Immigration, France’s national museum devoted to immigration. The works on display emanate from the extraordinary collection of contemporary art constituted by the designer agnès b. and it marks the first time that she has chosen to exhibit a selection of works from her entire collection, photographs, installations, paintings and videos, in Paris. The works dialogue with those in the permanent collection of the museum. Childhood, love, writing and identity are among the themes explored in the show, which features over 100 works. Among the artists on display are Claude Lévêque, Henri Cartier-Bresson and John Giorno exhibited alongside Mona Hatoum, Kader Attia and Chéri Samba offering an evocative glimpse into the stories of those who have come from elsewhere. Showing all month 293 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01 53 59 58 60 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 59

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Olwen Forest JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

Galerie TaménaGa IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART

Into Wilde

Lorenzo Fernandez, Dos Virtudes Oil on panel - 135 x 135 cm MODERN MASTERS: Cézanne, Renoir, Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Gris, Klee, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet,... CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano,... 18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 / www.tamenaga.com

The Petit Palais is devoting a major exhibition to the celebrated writer and major literary figure Oscar Wilde, a Francophile who spoke brilliant French and who died in Paris in 1900 and is buried in the city’s Père Lachaise cemetery. It brings together an exceptional ensemble of 200 documents, some of which have never been shown to the public before. Manuscripts, photographs, drawings, paintings, caricatures and personal effects emanating from collections throughout the world retrace the life and work of the author of The Picture of Dorian Gray. The show brings together a number of portraits of the artist and will exhibit for the first time 13 of the original oversize photographs taken by Napoleon Sarony during Wilde’s tour of America in 1882. His most significant manuscripts will be on show with special importance given to Salomé, which he originally wrote in French, with its celebrated illustrations by Aubrey Beardsley. Showing all month Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01 53 43 40 00

Aubrey Beardsley, J’ai baisé ta bouche Ioka¬naan, The Studio, n°1, April 1893. Collection Merlin Holland

Exhibition: Lorenzo FERNANDEZ November 17 to December 8

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Seo Young-Deok Despair # 205, 2016 Stainless chain 90 x 70 x 70 cm - 35.4 x 27.6 x 27.6 in.

62 rue du faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ, 75008 Paris - T. +33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 paris@operagallery.com - operagallery.com Monday - Saturday: 10 am - 7 pm. Sunday: 11 am - 7 pm

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arts&attractions

A Journey with the Grand Condé An exhibition underway at the Domain of Chantilly is showcasing one of the more flamboyant individuals in the history of France, Louis II de Bourbon, the Prince de Condé from 1621 to 1686 and better known as the Grand Condé. The show will enable the visitor to discover the personality of a great warrior and hero of his time and who would also transform Chantilly into a prestigious residence. The show also takes a look at the Grand Condé’s relationship to his cousin Louis XIV and asks if he was on a political, military and cultural level his rival. The paintings from the extraordinary collection of the Grand Condé are a highlight of the show with Old Masters like van Dyck and the great painters of the time like Le Brun and Mignard amongst the artists on show. Some 120 works and historic documents have been brought together to celebrate the Grand Condé including paintings, arms, drawings and books. Showing all month Domain of Chantilly, Chantilly 60500, 03 44 27 31 80

Looking at Leonardo Five hundred years ago, Leonardo da Vinci arrived in France and after crossing the Alps made his way to Amboise where the French king, Francis I, who had named him the first painter, architect and engineer to the king, was waiting for him. To celebrate this anniversary, the Italian embassy in Paris is hosting an exhibition entitled The Master and His Students, 500 Years after the Crossing of the Alps, 1516-2016. The show, which is free, brings together a host of documents and 10 master works by Leonardo and his closest students, Franceso Melzi who followed him to France and Gian Giacomo Caprotti known as Salaì who journeyed to Amboise when Leonardo sojourned there. The works, which are presented in a comparative style, are on loan from major Italian museums. Leonardo’s masterpiece, The Head of a Woman known as La Scapigliata, which depicts the face of a woman and is in the collection of the National Gallery of the Complesso della Pilotta in Parma is the pivotal point of the show. Through to November 20 Daily from 11am to 5pm Hôtel de la Rochefoucauld-Doudeauville 47 rue de Varenne (7th)

Pierre Mignard, La Délivrance. d’Andromède, Paris, musée du Louvre. © RMN-Grand Palais (musée du Louvre) / Franck Raux; The Head of a Woman known as La Scapigliata, Léonardo da Vinci, Parma, National Gallery

Exhibitions

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Trompe-l’Oeil An intriguing show of some 20 contemporary still life paintings curiously resembling photographs is being held at the Galerie Taménaga. The Spanish artist Lorenzo Fernandez who has devoted his artistic career to painting, which is often described as Neo-Pop realism, marked by the traditional Spanish pictorial tradition in which space, light and ambiance play a leading role, is all in evidence in his works exhibited in the show. He stages a host of objects like plastic figurines, fuses, old photographs, bar codes, candies and religious symbols, in his thought-provoking paintings. He takes the resemblance to photography to its full limit, even incorporating out of focus “shots” or placing a reflection in his “image” that are truly paintings, which he creates in oil and acrylic on wood panels. From November 17 through to December 8 18 avenue Matignon (8th), 01 42 66 61 94

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arts&attractions Exhibitions

A Divine Dialogue A spectacular show bringing together two of the greatest artists of the 20th century is being played out at the Musée Picasso. Entitled Picasso-Giacometti, it has gathered together some 200 works in diverse mediums, painting, sculpture and drawing, by the two masters from the rich collections of the Musée Picasso and the Fondation Giacometti as well as works on loan from collections in France and aboard. Previously unseen documents, drawings and notebooks are also on display shedding light on the little known relationship, both friendly and formal, between the two artists. From their encounter in the 1930s to their vibrant post-war exchanges on the quarrels about the return of Realism, the two artists constantly talked about their creative process. Organised in 8 sections, the exhibition offers a chronological and thematic journey into the various aspects of the artistic production of Pablo Picasso and Alberto Giacometti.

Monumental and Military The Musée de l’Armée, the national military museum of France, is one of the three leading military museums in the world. It is housed in the splendid Hôtel National des Invalides that is capped with a glistening golden dome. The institution’s permanent collections are bountiful, diverse and emanate from myriad sources. Some 500,000 works, objects and documents dating from the Bronze Age to the 21st century form the backbone of the museum’s collections. Among the exceptional pieces in the museum one finds the armour given to Louis XIV by the Republic of Venice as well as the imposing armour of Francis 1st, an object that gives an idea of the king’s incredible height, estimated at 1.98 metres. The museum has a fine collection of military music instruments including a wide array of wind and percussion instruments .The structure also houses the tombs of Napoleon Bonaparte and Field Marshal Foch. Some 170 multi-media devices are found throughout the museum including films and animated and commentated battle and military campaign maps. The section devoted to Charles de Gaulle is an entirely audio-visual and multimedia experience and is visited with an audio-guide. The museum organises two temporary exhibitions each year while special events, concerts, a boutique, a bookstore and a cafe-restaurant round out the agenda. 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 08 10 11 33 99

Pablo Picasso, Portrait de Dora Maar, Paris, 1937. Huile sur toile, Musée national Picasso-Paris © Succession Picasso 2016; Dôme des Invalides Photo © Paris, musée de l’Armée/ Emilie Cambier

Showing all month 5 rue de Thorigny (3rd), 01 85 56 00 36

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Paul Gauguin, Aha oé feii ? (Are You Jealous?), 1892 The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, Moscow © The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts

M o n et , M ati s s e , C éz a n n e , Pi c a s s o, Va n G o g h , R e n o ir, D e g a s , R o u s s e a u , G a u g uin , To ul o u s e - L a u tre c …

Fondation Louis Vuitton, The State Hermitage Museum, The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts

22 october 2016 > 20 february 2017

Book now : fondationlouisvuitton.fr and fnac.com #fondationlouisvuitton |

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8 avenue du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne, Paris

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arts&attractions Monuments

Notre-Dame Cathedral

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am -10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before

closing. Entry fee (7-17€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr 1-Sep 30: 10am-5:45pm; Oct 1-Mar 31: 10am-4:45pm. 10€. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10. M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm Jul-Aug

and school holidays; rest of year Wed, Sat and Sun, same times (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacrecoeur-montmartre.fr. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily 9am-5pm, MonFri closed between 1pm & 2:15pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time, times may vary. 10€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

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Address Book

arts&attractions

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris

Galerie Bartoux Elysées A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Canesso This gallery has a fine selection of Old Master and Italian paintings. Its museum-quality works date from the Renaissance to the 18th century. A host of themes are found in the paintings ranging from religion and mythology to landscapes and portraits. 26 rue Laffitte (9th), 01.40.22.61.71. M°Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette

Galerie Lelong This quintessential Parisian gallery features the works of leading contemporary artists. Tues-Fri 10:30am-6pm. Sat 2pm-6:30pm.13 rue de Téhéran (8th), 01.45.63.13.19. M° Miromesnil

Galerie NMariño This sophisticated and welcoming gallery in the Marais neighbourhood specialises in geometric abstraction and kinetic art. The house showcases both confirmed and emerging talents and regularly hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent collections. William Barbosa, Martha Boto and Hans Kotter are among the artists represented by the gallery. Tues-Sat 1pm-6pm. 8 rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais (3rd), 01.48.87.49.75. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Galerie Olwen Forest Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.

Parc Zoologique de Paris | Attractions

18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Russkiy Mir

This well-appointed gallery features works by contemporary Russian artists including Anatoly Poutilline, Masha Schmidt, Marina Nikolaeva, Andrei Tyrtyshnikov and Vladimir Sichov. 7 rue Miromesnil (8th), 01.44.71.07.41. M° Miromesnil

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

attractions Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Canal Saint-Martin

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Les Étoiles du Rex

Travel to the heart of cinema. A unique and interactive visit into the magical world of

cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. Fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family. WedSun 10am-7pm including bank holidays and everyday during French school holidays. 1 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.58. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Manoir de Paris

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Paris Story

A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin

Pavillons de Bercy

Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

Aquarium Sea Life

Plunge into the intriguing world of cephalopods at this educational display featuring several species of octopus. The giant Pacific octopus, the nautilus and the Wonderpus will join the 5000 creatures that are already housed at the aquarium. Centre Commercial Val d’Europe, 14 Cours du Danube, 77711 Marne-la-Vallée, 01.60.42.33.66, RER A to Val d’Europe station, 10 min by foot

boat cruises Bateaux Parisiens

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux Parisiens | Boat Cruises

Parc Zoologique de Paris ©MNHN

art galleries

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arts&attractions

Address Book

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 08.25.05.01.01

devoted to stained glass which is unique in Europe. SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr); last return train to Paris about 9pm.

Château de Fontainebleau A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Château de Versailles

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

River Limousine

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

Yachts de Paris

The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions as well as nightly gourmet dinner cruises. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

Château de Vaux le Vicomte This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

day trips Auvers sur Oise

The French countryside and the village where Van Gogh spent the last months of his life are just 27 km from Paris. In town you can visit a 17th century chateau and the Maison Van Gogh (open Mar through Oct). SNCF from Gare du Nord to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-sur-Oise (about 1 hr 15 min)

Chartres

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

The town of Chartres is known for its splendid cathedral with magnificent stained glass windows. You can also visit the Centre International du Vitrail, a workshop and museum

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

Yachts de Paris | Boat Cruises

Troyes

A delightful small city in the heart of the Champagne country. Narrow streets of halftimbered houses with gabled roofs and private mansions dating from the Renaissance are an integral part of the charm of this quintessential provincial town, which became the seat of the Counts of Champagne in the 9th century. The city is doted with a fine array of museums, a superb cathedral and spectacular churches. Direct trains depart regularly from the Gare de l’Est (about 90 minutes)

gardens Jardin d’Acclimatation

A traditional French children’s park in the scenic Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions, pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy, restaurants and picnic grounds. Daily 10am-6pm. Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.40.67.90.85. M° Les Sablons

Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

guided tours 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie

These innovative concept tours are conducted on board the mythical 2CV car. Tours throughout Paris and the surroundings are available as well as thematic visits for children, or for romance for example. Customised visits and services may be organised as well. 06.67.32.26.68.

Bustronome

This original tour combines fine food with sightseeing. During the lunch or dinner tour you

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L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

My STS

Luxury and custom-made excursions are the hallmarks of this company whose drivers are licensed guides. Tours are available in English with expert commentary on history, the arts and antiques and the guides can also take visitors into museums and monuments. 01.74.54.50.08. www.mysts.fr

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Retro Tour

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com

museums & fondations Albert-Kahn Musée et Jardins

The home and gardens of a 19th century philanthropist who hired pioneer photographers to document life around the world. The permanent collection includes 72,000 glassplate autochromes. From 1909 to 1931, the philanthropist Kahn sent reporters all over the world to document the lifestyles of indigenous peoples that he believed would soon disappear. 14 rue du Port, Boulogne-Billancourt, 01.55.19.28.00. M° Boulogne - Pont de Saint-Cloud

Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon,

Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Espace Dali In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Institut du Monde Arabe Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

Mona Bismarck American Center The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine | Museums & Fondations

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée d’Orsay A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de ParisLe Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée de l’Homme The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de l’Orangerie In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac ©Cyril Zannettacci

can see the city’s major sites and monuments from the double decker bus with a panoramic glass roof while enjoying a complete meal revolving around seasonal products. 2 ave Kléber (16th), 09.54.44.45.55. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Fondation Louis Vuitton | Museums & Fondations

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arts&attractions

Address Book

and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 9 rue Scribe (9th), 01.47.42.04.56. M° Opéra

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac ©Cyril Zannettacci

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun

11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée du Vin

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Palais Galliera

Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau

Musée Grévin

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm (last tickets one hour before closing). 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée Jacquemart-André

The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée Marmottan Monet

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Musée Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private

Musée des Arts et Métiers | Museums & Fondations

mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15pm), late night Wed until 9pm; garden closes at 5:00pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

Monnaie de Paris

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Palais de Tokyo

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

practical information Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

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The Guide

dining

Mediterranean Cuisine | French Fare | Dining with a View | Bistro Fare

Sample La Tour d’Argent’s new menu courtesy of chef Philippe Labbé (page 74)

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dining

Restaurants

Dining at the Four Seasons When visiting Paris tourists dream of three things, seeing the Eiffel Tower, having accordion music playing in the background when they are romantically walking through the cobblestone streets of the French capital and dining at a fancy French restaurant. One fine dining establishment worth reserving a table for two at is Le Cinq, where talented chef Christian Le Squer has orchestrated a culinary experience that will be very difficult to forget. The 3-star Michelin restaurant is everything diners expect to experience when they think of French dining, an opulent décor, impeccable service and a refined cuisine. In the dining room, overlooking the hotel’s courtyard, diners are invited to sample the chef’s creations, which include Dublin Bay prawns served with a dollop of creamy mayonnaise and crispy buckwheat pancakes, and Australian Black Market beef covered with a veil of mozzarella cheese and shavings of mushrooms. The dining experience is of course incomplete without a wine pairing and Eric Beaumard, the restaurant’s award-winning sommelier, is on-hand to recommend the perfect drop, selected from the restaurant’s wine cellar that boasts 50,000 bottles of wine, which have been carefully selected by Eric himself. – S.I. Le Cinq 31 ave George V (8th), 01 49 52 71 54

Le Cinq © Bernhard Winkelmann; Tomy & Company © Guilaume Lechat

Fresh from the Garden After making a big hit as chef at Pirouette, a bistro in Les Halles, talented young Franco-Cambodian chef Tomy Gousset has just opened his own restaurant, Tomy & Company, on a quiet side street in the 7th arrondissement that is rapidly becoming one of the most gastronomically well-endowed lanes on the Left Bank (among others, Restaurant David Toutain, another superb modern French table, is also located here). Gousset’s dining room looks like it could be in Shoreditch in London, Silverlake in Los Angeles, or Brooklyn, bien sûr, instead of this bourgeois turf, since it’s simple, loft-like and unpretentious. The chef works with vegetables from his own garden in Normandy and assiduously follows the seasons to create a regularly changing menu that includes such inventive dishes as sea bream with baby potatoes and aubergine puree, chicken stuffed with foie gras and a garnish of broccoli-corn puree, and his sublime Ossau-Iraty cheesecake with a black cherry glaze for dessert. – Alexander Lobrano Tomy & Company 22 rue Surcouf (7th), 01 45 51 46 93 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 73

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dining

Restaurants

Dining with a View It’s not easy to give a grande dame a makeover, but with patience, kindness, subtlety and respect you can make a success of it. Or at least that’s what André Terrail has proved since he hired the exceptionally talented chef Philippe Labbé to take over the kitchens of La Tour d’Argent, one of the most legendary restaurants in Paris. Labbé, who previously worked at L’Abeille at the Shangri-La Paris Hotel, has devised a superb menu that’s making a meal in the dining room with the most beautiful view in Paris more exciting than it’s been for a very long time. It follows the seasons, but runs to dishes like frog’s legs with nettles and razor shell clams as a starter, and a new three-course riff on its famous fowl, the duckling for which every diner receives an individually numbered post card as a souvenir. The dessert not to miss is the all apple dessert, or, for chocolate lovers, the milk chocolate mousse with white chocolate ice-cream, and the lunch menu at 105 euros is an excellent buy. – A.L. La Tour d’Argent 15 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01 43 54 23 31

The cobblestone streets of Montmartre exert a galvanic hold on the imagination of many visitors to Paris because the little hilltop farm town that was once known for its moulins (windmills) eventually became one of the world’s most famous and fructive bohemian boltholes at the end of the 19th century. Those were the days when artists like Toulouse Lautrec, Utrillo and others frequented its bars and dance halls and memorialised their patrons by making them subjects of their canvases. If Montmartre is still a delightful place for strolling, the volume of travellers has unfortunately made it an often-difficult place to find a decent meal, since too many restaurants here deal in a mediocrity deemed safe for single-visit customers. Now, talented pâtissier Gilles Marchal has opened Bistrot de la Galette, a charming bistro that looks like it has been here forever but is in fact a recent address that was created with flea-market finds, including a big oak and stone bar from a tavern in Belgium. The menu spins around the idea of the galette, those flaky buttery pastries that can be a base for both savoury and sweet preparations. So start with some oeufs Mimosa, aka devilled eggs, and maybe the tomato tarts, and then order one of the bistro dishes, perhaps the sea bream with a sauce Dugléré (fish fumet, butter, tomatoes, shallots, white wine) or the financière of creamed veal sweetbreads, or maybe an omelette and scrambled eggs with smoked salmon or bacon, potatoes and fresh herbs. The pièce de résistance here, however, are the savoury galettes, including my favourite, which is filled with ham, roast pork, Comté cheese, sautéed mushrooms and a dribble of raw cream, it just might be one of the best things to eat in Paris right now. Then finish up with a homemade baba au rhum, or maybe the puits d’amour, a puff pastry filled with vanilla pastry cream. – A.L. Bistrot de la Galette 102ter rue Lepic (18th) 01 46 06 19 65

Bistrot de la Galette © Anne Emmaunuelle Thion

Bistro Dining

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THE CHOCOLATIER OF KINGS AND THE KING OF CHOCOLATIERS Founded in 1800, supplier to the Kings of France, we offer more than 40 varieties of chocolates, from old-fashioned pralines to the creamy raspberry or coffee-ﬂavoured ganache. Aﬁcionados will love our chocolate bars made from different varieties of chocolate beans and orange rind Lily shaped gift box

decorated with gold leaves

Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday 9.30am to 7.30pm

30 rue des Saints-Pères, 75007 Paris = Tel: 01 45 48 54 67 = M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés 33 rue Vivienne, 75002 Paris = M° Bourse 333 N Bedford Road, Suite 150, Mt. Kisco, NY 10549 = Tel: 914 244 89 98

www.debauve-et-gallais.com = www.debauveandgallais.com

181x132 WHERE-FEVRIER_14.qxp_Mise en page 1 17/12/2013 11:46 Page1

Seafood, a Parisian culture.

L’Auberge Dab Tel. 01 45 00 32 22 161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from noon - 3pm and from 7pm to 2am - Valet parking available www.auberge-dab.com Congrès Maillot Tel. 01 45 74 17 24 80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 2am Valet parking available www.congres-maillot.com

Bistrot de la Galette © Anne Emmaunuelle Thion

Les Grandes Marches Tel. 01 43 42 90 32 6, place de la Bastille - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.grandes-marches.com L’Européen Tel. 01 43 43 99 70 21 bis, boulevard Diderot - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 1am www.l-europeen.com

Agence-pashmina.com - Crédit photo : Francis Hammond

Congrès Auteuil Tel. 01 46 51 15 75 144, boulevard Exelmans - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.congres-auteuil.com

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DINING DINING

Restaurant Restaurant Advertorial Advertorial

WEPLER WEPLER

LE LOUCHÉBEM LE LOUCHÉBEM

Traditional French cuisine Traditional French cuisine th

Traditional French cuisine Traditional French cuisine st

414 Place de Clichy, Paris 18 / Metro: Place de Clichy th 414 de Clichy, Paris 4Tel:Place +33 (0)1 45 22 53 2418 / Metro: Place de Clichy 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 22 53 24 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Daily 12:30menu am 30€ 4Lunchuntil & Dinner 4Lunch & Dinner menu 30€ 4Set-menu 24.50€ 4Set-menu 24.50€ 4English spoken 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com 4www.wepler.com

431 rue Berger, Paris 1 st 431 rue Berger, 4Metro: ChâteletParis / Les1 Halles 4Metro: / Les 4Tel: +33Châtelet (0)1 42 33 12 Halles 99 4Tel: +33 (0)1 means 42 33 12 99 4Louchébem butcher 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed Sundays 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr 4www.le-louchebem.fr

A full menu for all your lunches and dinners: A fullofmenu for allFrench your lunches and dinners: one the finest Onion soups in the one of the finestplates FrenchorOnion soups in the capital, seafood traditional house capital, seafood plates or traditional house dishes as Fish from the market or Andouillette dishes Fishrestaurant from the market or Andouillette AAAAAas, our has something for AAAAA , our restaurant has something for everyone . everyone .

This quintessential les Halles butcher’s This quintessential Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers les a full gamut of meat dishes. restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes. The pot roast salad is superb and the unique The potcan roast is superb the unique all you eatsalad platter of beef,and roast ham and all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.and leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.

LE BISTROT DU LOUCHÉBEM LE BISTROT DU LOUCHÉBEM

LA MARÉE LA MARÉE

Traditional French cuisine Traditional French cuisine st

Fish & Seafood cuisine Fish & Seafoodth cuisine

Succulent meats from the butcher are Succulent meatshere. fromInventive, the butcher are to be savoured refined to be savoured here. crispy Inventive, refined appetizers including thyme-fl avoured appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured Camembert are worth the detour. Camembert detour. The calf’s liverare is aworth sheerthe delight and the The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm. ambiance warm and full of charm.

This establishment dedicated to the art of This establishment dedicated art of preparing fine fish and seafoodtoisthe ideally preparing fi ne fi sh and seafood is ideally located near the Champs-Elysées (since located Champs-Elysées 1963) in near an Artthe Nouveau building. (since 1963) in an Art Nouveau building. Every month the chef imagines new dishes Every theseasons. chef imagines new dishes in tunemonth with the in tune with the seasons.

47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1 st 47 rue des Prouvaires, 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Paris Halles1 4Metro: / Les 4Tel: +33Châtelet (0)1 45 08 04 Halles 10 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 0425.90 10 € 4Unlimited carpaccio: 4Unlimited carpaccio: 25.90€ 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr

41 rue Daru, Paris 8 th 41 rue Daru, Paris 4Metro: Etoiles or 8Courcelles 4Metro: Courcelles 4Tel: +33Etoiles (0)1 43or80 20 00 4Tel: +33 (0)1day,12am-2:30pm 43 80 20 00 4Open every / 7pm-10:30pm 4Open every day,12am-2:30pm / 7pm-10:30pm 4www.lamaree.fr 4www.lamaree.fr 4contact@lamaree.fr 4contact@lamaree.fr

INDIAN INDIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMY

33 MINUTES PRODUCTS. SPECIALISING IN MINUTES FROM FROM PARIS. PARIS. THE THE ONLY ONLY INDIAN INDIAN RESTAURANT RESTAURANT WITH WITH 22 GAULT GAULT && MILLAU MILLAU TOQUES. TOQUES. FINE FINE QUALITY QUALITY && FRESH FRESH PRODUCTS. SPECIALISING IN TANDOORI TANDOORI PM PM PM PM 2.30 / 7 11.30 DISHES, CURRIES AND BIRYANIS. PRIVATE & COMPLIMENTARY VALET PARKING. OPEN DAILY 12 PM PM PM PM DISHES, CURRIES AND BIRYANIS. PRIVATE & COMPLIMENTARY VALET PARKING. OPEN DAILY 12 - 2.30 / 7 - 11.30 3-5 3-5 quai quai Aulagnier, Aulagnier, 92600 92600 Asnières-sur-Seine Asnières-sur-Seine // M° M° Gabriel Gabriel Péri Péri (line (line 13) 13) Tel: Tel: +33 +33 (0)1.40.86.10.11 (0)1.40.86.10.11 // +33 +33 (0)6.99.05.40.40 (0)6.99.05.40.40 www.kaveri.fr www.kaveri.fr // restaurant@kaveri.fr restaurant@kaveri.fr 76 WHERE Pa r i s I N O V E M B E R 2016

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dining

Restaurant Advertorial

bustronome French cuisine / Place Charles de Gaulle Étoile, on the corner with Avenue Kleber (16th) Combine sightseeing and bistro dining aboard Bustronome, the city’s restaurant on wheels. With a glass roof, the bus-cum-restaurant allows diners to take in every inch of the splendour the city has to offer. Enjoy an entrée of seasonal vegetables flavoured with olive oil, lime and honey as you ride along the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, sample a filet of guinea fowl served with puréed corn, romanesco cabbage and roasted pear and take in the Musée d’Orsay before savouring vanilla panna cotta, sorbet and blackcurrant meringue, Genoa cake and sweet crystallized violet as you pass by the Eiffel Tower. Bustronome operates for lunch and dinner and can also be privatised. Tel: +33 (0)9 54 44 45 55 / www.bustronome.com

Au CoIn Des Gourmets Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near Notre-Dame. Advisable to reserve. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr

Paris 1st

5 rue Dante, Paris 5th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92

BOUILLON DES COLONIES

A Restaurant of the World / Paris 6

BOUILLON RACINE

A Parisian restaurant since 1906 / Paris 6th

This restaurant offers a change of pace with its subdued lighting, an atmosphere somewhere between Africa and Asia, propitious for a meal in tête à tête but also among friends. While the setting carries one away what invites the patron in is truly the innovative cuisine, which proposes the best of Middle Eastern, African or Caribbean cooking to the classics of French cuisine. Fine dishes found on the menu include shrimp risotto, Tahitian-style tuna tartar, beef satay or the African-Middle Eastern platter. Lunch menu priced at 15.95€ and à la carte menu at 25.90€ at lunch and dinner. Sunday brunch.

Opened in 1906, the Bouillon Racine is one of the rare bouillons or precursor of the brasserie still present in Paris today and going strong. Its interior decor is listed as a historic monument and is a two-floor delight that takes you back a century in time. Alexandre Belthoise invites you to savour his traditional bouillon with chicken and vegetables, French onion soup, beef stew, stuffed and spit roasted suckling pig and risotto with Saint Jacques and prawns. For dessert try the waffle with crème brûlée. Reasonably priced lunch menu at 16.95€, set menus at 33€ and 43€.

3 rue Racine, Paris 6th Tel: 01 44 32 15 64

3 rue Racine, Paris 6th Tel: 01 44 32 15 60

PHARAMOND

Cuisine of Normandy since 1832 / Paris 1st

This institution in the first arrondissement is breath taking. The decor, listed as a historic monument, is an astonishing blend of woodwork, mirrors and painted mirrors. Sébastien Richard is delighted to share his cuisine with you from the nostalgic dishes like tripe à la mode de Caen or homemade andouillette along with savoury new dishes like sea bass carpaccio, rack of lamb in a crust of herbs, roasted and potted Norman pig without forgetting the teurgoule, traditional rice pudding from Normandy. A generous and savoury cuisine to be discovered through two menus, a lunch menu priced at 16.90€ or the à la carte menu starting at 35€. 24 rue de la Grande Truanderie, Paris 1st Tel: 01 40 28 45 18

LA VILLA CORSE

Corsican Restaurant / Paris 15th Enter into the Villa Corse for a gourmet journey between the sea and the mountains for enchanting gastronomy and an oenological discovery. The open kitchen raises the curtain on the on going culinary operations and it is in full view of the guests that chef Cyril Gauzit and his team prepare the savours of the Ile of Beauty from broccoli cannelloni to a suckling pig, cromesquis of figatellu (fried fresh sausage), mashed potatoes with truffles and blood sausage to wind it all up with a brocciu en fiadone païsanu (flan). Lunch menu: 25€. A la carte menu 45€. 164 boulevard de Grenelle, Paris 15th Tel: 01 53 86 70 81

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DINING

Restaurants

Corsican Tastes in Paris If you’re looking to take your taste buds on a culinary voyage, a charming address that offers just that is La Villa Corse. In a contemporary setting chef Cyril Gauzit serves up authentic Corsican cuisine with seasonal dishes. The Mediterranean menu includes traditional starts such as sardines served with fresh vegetables and a lemon dressing while mains include Linguine à la Calvaise, a pasta dish with king prawns, cherry tomatoes, prisuttu (Corsican ham) and Tomme cheese, just like in Corsica. The restaurant also offers a fine wine list with a selection of wines from Corsica. - S.I. La Villa Corse 164 blvd de Grenelle (15th), 01 44 32 15 63

Photo © Anthony Guerra

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Address Book

dining

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd)

signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Au Coin Des Gourmets - CambodianVietnamese-Laotian (€€)

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde

Aux Lyonnais - Bistro

(€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted freerange chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Goust - Gourmet (€€€)

Located on the 1 floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this one-star restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterranean-style cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01.40.15.20.30. M° Opéra st

Kinugawa - Japanese (€€€)

Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries

La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary

(€€€)

Two minutes away from the magnificent opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat crepes. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Bistrot de Louchébem - Classic French (€)

Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the housemade foie gras or the warm goat cheese salad. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Louchébem - Bistro (€)

Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)

Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

La Tour de Montlhéry -Chez Denise - Bistro (€€)

This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles

Lavinia - Classic French (€€)

Nicely prepared traditional French food is on the agenda in this casually elegant eatery. Homemade foie gras with lemon chutney is a nice starter and the main courses include a fish and a dish of the day. The restaurant is attached to the Lavinia wine cellar and you can choose from 100 prestigious wines by the glass and from all of the wines carried by the house, some 6,000, by the bottle to

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

La Table du Lancaster | Gourmet (8th)

Canard & Champagne | Classic French (2nd)

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Address Book

accompany your meal. Mon-Sat noon-10pm. 3 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01.42.97.20.27. M° Madeleine

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Georges - World Cuisine (€€€)

Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a spaceage decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and

other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€) Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A

stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Taokan - Chinese (€€€)

Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° Saint-Sulpice

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) 58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)

Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire

Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

Septime ©Ph. Baumann

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Septime | Classic French (11th)

Au Moulin à Vent | Bistro (5th) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 81

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Address Book L’Ami Jean - Classic French (€€€)

Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie

(€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Adrien Trouilloud serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Mon-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L only. 17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

La Table du Lancaster - Gourmet (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

This delightful two-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Mon-Fri L&D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V

Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)

Fine French gastronomy and international

cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Penati Al Baretto - Italian (€€)

In the exclusive 8th arrondissement, a minute away from the Arc de Triomphe, is where you can enjoy a real treat of fine Italian cuisine in Paris. Into the elegant surroundings of this one Michelin starred restaurant - Chef Alberico Penati proposes a seasonal Menu reflective of the regions of his native Italy along with an extended wine list selection to take you on a refined gastronomic tour of that country. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat D only. 9 rue Balzac (8th), 01.42.99.80.00.M° George V

Around oPérA GArnier & PiGALLe (9th, 10th, 18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)

The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards

Café Pouchkine - Café (€)

This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

Ledoyen | Gourmet (8th)

Le Safran | Gourmet (8th)

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Address Book décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

Wepler - Brasserie (€)

Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) Blue Elephant - Thai (€€€)

Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille

East Mamma - Italian (€)

This welcoming restaurant serves up authentic and seasonal Italian food in an inviting atmosphere with an open kitchen. The pizzas are baked in a wood fire oven and the homemade pasta dishes can be ordered for one or for four and are served in individual copper pans. Daily L&D. 133 rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine (11th), 01.43.41.32.15. M° Ledru-Rollin

Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with

creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56 floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse th

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

L’Auberge Dab - Classic French (€€€)

Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Monsieur Bleu - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th)

suBurBs not too fAr froM PAris

Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

Le Kavéri – Indian (€€)

A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

Jamin - Classic French (€€)

The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers

This restaurant, recommended by Gault&Millau, serves refined dishes from the repertoire of Indian gastronomy. Starters include chicken tikka and vegetable samosas while butter chicken, tandoori masala quail or shrimp with eggplant are among the many main courses. Daily, L&D. 3-5 quai Aulagnier, Asnières-sur-Seine, 01.40.86.10.11. M° Gabriel Péri

Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the SaintOuen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Desserts include fun selections like floating island and baba au rum. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

L’Abeille | Gourmet (16th)

Les Ombres | Contemporary (7th) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 83

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The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Meet saxophonist Guillaume Perret at Café de la Danse (page 87)

Photo © Guillaume Perret

Shows | Cocktail Bars | Nightclubs | Cabarets | Gentlemen’s Clubs

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Shows

A Cuban Circus Starting on the 12th of November, CirkaCuba will take you from the City of Light to Havana and back again. This original circus show will see 50 artists under the big top at Cirque Phénix with dancers, singers and musicians all performing to the sounds of Cuba. Acrobats, aerial performers and a contortionist are only some of the daring acts and with the contagious Cuban music playing a major role in soundtracking the energetic show, CirkaCuba promises to be a circus like no other. Cirque Phénix Pelouse de Reuilly (12th), 01 40 55 50 55

It’s Magic!

Circus © Laurent Bugnet

Photo © Guillaume Perret

entertainment

If you love magic then you will love the new The Illusionists show, which is bringing together the 7 most famous magicians in the world. Starting on the 17th of this month Folies Bergère will be welcoming The Illusionists, a mind-blowing magic show that you have to see to believe with the group of seven magicians leaving you wondering with every act “how are they doing it?” The magic troupe includes The Unusualist, The Weapon Master, The Deceptionist, The Master Magician, The Escapologist, The Elusive and The Manipulator, with each performing unbelievable tricks that will leave you stunned. Folies Bergère 32 rue Richer (9th), 08 92 68 16 50 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 85

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TO EXPLORE

No. 43: Before dawn, hike to Mesa Arch in Canyonlands National Park for an epic sunrise view. For more amazing destinations go to wheretraveler.com

Explorers:

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PICK THE PLACE. SEIZE THE STAY.

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entertainment

Shows

Not Just Jazz Saxophonist Guillaume Perret mixes contemporary jazz with a wah-wah pedal and throws in a little bit of metal, creating a distorted kind of sound that is difficult to classify in any one music category, and he is bringing his unique music to Paris on the 17th of November. Performing music from his latest album, Free, released in September, Guillaume demonstrates his musical talents and celebrates the essence of jazz, the freedom of music. Café de la Danse 5 Passage Louis-Philippe (11th), 01 47 00 57 59

Café de la Danse © Guillaume Perret

Retro Moves For three nights only, from the 4th to the 6th of November, you can try to catch Flying Steps’s new show, Red Bull Flying Illusion. Flying Steps, the dance troupe that brings together the world’s best break-dancers, including four French dancers, is finally bringing their new phenomenal show, which mixes breakdance and hip-hop to the French capital. The show, which took three years to create, sees 12 dancers take to the stage to perform breakdance moves, the street dance style that originated in the 70s and which has regained its popularity in recent years. The dancing, punctuated with a light and music show make Red Bull Flying Illusion a must-see show for audiences who love energetic dancing executed beautifully. Tickets are available at Fnac. Le Zénith 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01 44 52 54 56 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 87

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entertainment Bars & Clubs

Tacos and Cocktails In the fashionable 3rd arrondissement is where a small restaurant, Candelaria, serves authentic tacos. However, Candelaria’s secret isn’t the hidden ingredient in the Mexican dish but rather the restaurant’s back wall. With no sign or even a doorknob, a simple white door pushes open onto one of the coolest bars in town. Only people-in-the-know know this bar exists as there is no signage, and if you do not know there is a bar in the back you will simply think that Candelaria is a hole-inthe-wall taco joint, but really it is where you can enjoy refreshing cocktails from 6pm every night. Candelaria 52 rue de Saintonge (3rd), 01 42 74 41 28

The City of Light has always been known for its exclusive, and “reserved for the elite”, night spots and the Matignon makes sure the city’s reputation stands, at an even haughtier scale. Charles Tassin designed the club and shows off a sexy 70’s vibe complete with animal print detailing, to get clubbers roaring into the night. Being very selective we recommend you make sure you get your A-game on but once you are given access to the club you are promised a night to remember with pumping music and sparkling champagne magnums making their way around the club. The Matignon hosts themed nights, from rock to pop, catering to everyone’s favourite kind of music, and of course any elite club would not be complete without VIP areas, so if you want the star treatment book ahead and ask for a table where the champagne and vodka is guaranteed to flow. The club is open from Monday to Saturday, from 11pm to 5am. Matignon 3 ave Matignon (8th), 01 42 89 64 72

Matignon © Roberto Badin

An Elite Evening

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ADVERTORIAL

As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching

nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become Parisian

in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves. It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor. Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

Matignon © Roberto Badin

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH

FRIDAY & SATURDAY @ 7PM / SUNDAY @ 6PM / MONDAY @ 8PM Théâtre des Nouveautés (theater with air conditioning) 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards

Tickets at www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Not recommended for kids under 16 years old w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 89

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Cabarets

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01.47.23.32.32. M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01.43.25.28.28. M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

LIDO

MOULIN ROUGE

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.

This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily.

www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.56.10. M° George V

www.moulinrouge.fr. 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01.53.09.82.82. M° Blanche

Crazy Horse Photo © Antoine Poupel

Crazy Horse

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LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE !

DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 190 € REVUE À 21H ET À 23H À PARTIR DE 77 €

MONTMARTRE

82, BLD DE CLICHY - 75018 PARIS TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82

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THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !

DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM €190 SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

WWW.MOULIN-ROUGE.COM FACEBOOK.COM/LEMOULINROUGEOFFICIEL

07/10/2016 11:37

Address Book

entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

The Ballroom | Bars & Wine Bars

Hotel Costes Bar

Moonshiner

Le Bar Brûlé

Ô Chateau

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries This bar inside the W Hotel is a wonderful spot to enjoy drinks or cocktails from an eclectic menu in elegant well-dressed company. Tues-Sat 7pm-3am. 2 rue Meyerbeer (9th), 01.77.48.94.94. M° Chaussée d’Antin La Fayette

Le Bristol Bar

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin You can taste over 40 different wines by the glass in this fun wine bar, which has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Vintage Bordeaux, Château d’Yquem and fine champagnes are among the offerings. 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01.44.73.97.80. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ice Kube

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Chill out and sip 3 Finlandia cocktails and one shot at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting. Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle

Wine by One

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Enjoy a total unique wine experience in this lovely space next to the Champs-Elysées proposing 100 different wines by the glass. This atmospheric and eclectic bar has wines from all over the world that you can taste by the glass (at any time with your WINEcard), and also purchase bottles to take away. Mon-Sat noon-11pm. 27 rue de Marignan (8th), 01.45.63.18.98. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Le Lucien Bar

casino

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

jazz clubs Café Universel

Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal

Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this

Le Bar Long | Bars & Wine Bars

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New Morning ©Philippe Pirangeli

Badaboum

The Ballroom ©Kristen Pelou

bars & wine bars

Address Book

location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

Gentlemen’s clubs Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s only aphrodisiac restaurant and cabaret is a temple to glamour. Sensual savours are featured on the Aphrodisiac Menu like satay, sesame, hot peppers, cinnamon and ginger accompanied by a fine selection of wines and champagne. The show features 20 to 30 dancers in a jewel-box ambiance. 8:30pm-4am. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

niGht clubs L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 01.53.57.40.82. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

New Morning ©Philippe Pirangeli

The Ballroom ©Kristen Pelou

entertainment

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

La Fidelité

This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Showcase

Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby atmosphere. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Matignon

This exclusive club has a sexy 70s vibe complete with animal print detailing and serves up fabulous cocktails and champagne in a musicfilled ambiance to an elite crowd. The club hosts themed nights and is equipped with VIP areas. 3 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.89.64.72. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Palais Maillot

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Queen Club

This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des Champs-

L’Arc Paris | Nights Clubs

Elysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

maGical and opera shows Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

Titty Twister

| Nights Clubs

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RUE minutes, 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from E TO CHARLES DE GAULLE LE O Pyrénées R . D IA N T RU T RÉG BOR BR E DU GUÉ airport (12€ D E one way, 20€ round trip). E ES ST U RG D E R IE N S E AIRPORT N NV RU AV (ROISSY) SO RI PI RA ES E U IS GO R. D AT HE AU UB Belleville www.aeroportsdeparis.fr LE VAAL RIC GE ERT R. D R. DU T RAN S S Le EBus Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 FA R A L IBDirect-Paris CH Jacques AU SIER SA I N TF O N CI N PLE TES ONE RU Parc de ÂT P L M Bonsergent . J. M A E R T RA E L EA St-Fargeau GE V Edaily Belleville 20) leave from Montparnasse R . (14 rue du C RU U LOU PTE DE TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT N R. NT MÉNIL M. DU D' S A IL L O E D T H R Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) N 'O EA . E L I LMO U RG M É Nthe R. D Buses leave daily from bus parking lot on Blvd R. OU LIN UE UX B E R A U H and Gare 12th, M° Gare M Couronnes OU FA de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, UR UE L. J B O U LA I D E Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M°S R. S Goncourt NG Pershing near RO ITE ER LV D de Lyon), 5:30am-10:30pm, AM RON R U E every 30 minutes, AD S T-M DU MA AU ARTI République Pelleport S DE Porte Maillot). Arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before R. E E N D S A I N airport U R.D ET LA LE 6:15am-10:45pm, from (17€ R . DE ON N ES FONT DU B A one way, 30€ DOL M ES 'IS E LAY PLACE DE LA 3 C O UR R. TIM RUE RUE S A time (13€). Or Ltake TER trainRUfrom DE C A RGare DE NE ER FIL RÉPUBLIQUE round trip). These buses N A Z AR P. M . D U OR also leave from the ArcMénilmontant departure RB OR LA ETH 3 B RE AR DE R FE X U E I E C H taxi P. YA P N O Nord to Beauvais IS ES O AL R S (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then MO AV E Temple R . DU LA UR E PF R. D CA BI G de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M°EEtoile), PorteRUE DES PAdu LIE NT NUE TUR IBŒ KAM VIL R N UF OB to airport. SOR R. E JE A S Parmentier S R. RU R. DE ERS Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), O BI I R D TH DUP D N BO E E CE .D OU ETI RUE É AU PORTE DE E S P A R TA N T S R EN AR T UL MU MC HA Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Rue Wilson, S PLACE St-Maur 16th, R BAGNOLET P L . NA D AU D T L EDU EV VE MPF R. DE RIS Z LA RKA GAMBETTA AR R. ETS RU E O LE T AV OB E R. BLU B ELGR AN D AGN TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE B A Oberkampf S D M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean E T E Gambetta .D BET DE A3 RÉP R . DES GAM UBL LA C NO Porte de E e D UES Rey, 7th,E RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel),ANevery IQ U 30 R. GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT D Bagnolet NUE S RU E CA E BR V A R E RU RT ET R. ERT B PA EL R . from airport DE AG LE minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, Père Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave daily from ST LI Filles du PO OU NE Lachaise ER E RE RT Calvaire T O IS C LL B R RER B (9.50€) or .D VER E way, 30€ round trip). Take AN ES Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 6am toLISFR10:15pm R. FR (17€ one AM St-Sébastien IN OISS R. S TRIE M E E A TT Froissart RT DE R. ES C H M° P LP O EN TI R. Cimetière S catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, DU M A I R. TO U St-Ambroise R U E for Orly Airport/departures from Orly Airport to DE PONT AUX CHO TE T- S ÉB SD UX DU du Père R. S Musée ES Richard 4F Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, Picasso R Lachaise E Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. Lenoir ILS VO RU O D UR . D L R. S T- CL A U DE E É L T E P E LA PE AI every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm E RL (21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency:RUevery 20 UVE E e and RUE RE E LL TE EI R R T UET VI PA . DU every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 VER RC R O Q minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also e RER VBIT RO Philippe YAL LA PLACE FR IN Auguste AN E EM R . S T 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr D LÉON BLUM T H C CS - G I L LE from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then LE S RUE Musée NO BO R. OS DU E Voltaire CL DE AG UL IN Carnavalet E to Orly Sud. BOrlyVal metros leave Chemin S U LTthe OrlyVal service DA RU EV DU RO BO GNA SE Vert E E R. F. R É UR SI A T Bréguet D RU E T G D T ER RO U EOI Sabin UE LFOR I D S R. daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. S E B Q R E TO ORLY AIRPORT UE E S R . DU RU B O R. DE ME R RO E PAS DE IC I S DES ND . LE RU LA M U ELS ULE PLACEThe Travel timeNNbetween the two airports is about LA SO R IV O RT E A EV RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with LOrlyval, E HN OLI DES PL.DE LA UX MIRON O Alexandre A R Charonne CHAR S RÉUNION VOSGES DE O Dumas A M D 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com DE an automatic train, D U UVE E at Antony. Orlyval runs every S-Paul U E Pont R NE RU X Marie I E R RO NE e RU TER 5-7 minutes, AC PLACE6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction RON E L Porte de E DE CHA DRE R. D Bastille DE LA R . Montreuil S PORTE DE S TDE XAN DE A NMassy-Verrières R. 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navigate

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.10€). This map includes the new tramway line.

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“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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My Paris

BENJAMIN CAMUS-DURAND

Head Concierge at Le Roch Hotel & Spa Hôtel de Ville

Restaurant Hotel Le Roch

Jardin des Plantes La Défense

Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? Often unfairly forgotten, the Tour Saint Jacques in the heart of the capital offers a breathtaking view. At the top, the 360° view allows you to see Notre Dame, l’Hôtel de Ville, the Eiffel Tower, the Sacré Coeur Basilica, but also La Défense… all of Paris from above just for you. What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? I recently discovered a place that combines “culture” and “gastronomy”. The restaurant La Scène Thélème offers diners the possibility before every dinner to attend a reading, a play or any other cultural performance. At dinner diners are then invited to discover the

exceptional cuisine of Pierre Rigothier assisted by Clément Pina. What is a location in Paris that pleasantly surprised you? I had not been there since my childhood and I have had the pleasure of rediscovering with joy the Great Gallery of Evolution in the Jardin des Plantes. The place is ideal for children and adults, to discover or rediscover the animals of the whole world. Take the opportunity to also visit the greenhouses and of course the palaeontology gallery. The closest way to feel like being in Jurassic Park or on a safari. Where would you recommend our readers to celebrate a birthday party or a bachelor/ bachelorette party? Friends, cocktails and singing often do not mix well together, unless it’s at BAM Karaoke, the ideal place for your parties. This is really the latest trend where you can sing the greatest tunes of French and international music in an incredible atmosphere. Bachelorette party, birthday party, any party is a good one to sing until the end of the night. Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisurely stroll? For me, the Haut Marais district (Rue de Bretagne, Rue de Poitou, Rue de

Normandie) and Beaumarchais is the perfect neighbourhood to stroll. Everything is there. The Parisian spirit with cafés on the Rue de Bretagne and the mythic Marché des Enfants Rouges. The shops of new designers in the zeitgeist include Maison Labiche, APC and Ami, as well as addresses for food lovers, with Popelini, Les Chouettes and Le Clown Bar all there. Where have you recently enjoyed a fine dining experience? I had the chance recently to have dinner at Le Grand Restaurant by Jean-François Piège. Everything was amazing. The service, the place but also in the quality of the tableware, all to allow his incredible cuisine to show all its flavours. A journey for all the senses.

My perfect day 9am: Healthy breakfast at Café Coutume 12pm: Lunch with friends at Le Roch Hotel & Spa 3pm: Stroll through some of the Marais’s secret gardens 9pm: Dinner at Pierre Sang

where

Your Guide to the World

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? Le Bon Saint Pourçain is for me a typical French bistro. Hidden near the church of Saint Sulpice in the 6th arrondissement, the simple and refined cuisine make it an authentic address serving dishes including leeks vinaigrette or veal sweetbreads. The place is as small as it is pleasant, a restaurant that says, “Welcome to Paris”.

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Where Paris_210x297mm_France(Mount Bromo) copy.pdf

9/20/16

9:56 PM

Mount Bromo, East Java • Indonesia

CMY

Up here you'll find out just how small the world is In a world with many heart-pumping captivations, there is a sense of obligation to overtake all the many earth's challenges. Step into the edge of a magnificent realm where you can undertake Mother Nature's offerings in one swoop. Choose your experience: everlasting mountains, unforgiving streams of gorgeous oceans, fantastic mystical beasts, and fiery lakes. Face the life's many delicacies, because when you truly experience it, only then you can truly experience life. www.indonesia.travel indonesia.travel @indtravel indonesia.travel

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SIGNATURE DE CHANEL NECKLACE IN WHITE GOLD, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMONDS

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