Where Paris May 2017

M AY 2 0 17

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 280

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FINE DINING in Paris FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

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PARIS | CONTENTS

10

Hot Dates

14

The Delicious Talent of Christian Le Squer

This month’s calendar of must-see events

Meet the French chef who serves up creative dishes at Le Cinq

18

Frequenting Foundations

Discover the French capital’s art and cultural foundations

The guide 22 SHOPPING

The latest trends and the hottest fashions 52 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 64 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 78 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and bars 86 NAVIGATE

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings

M AY 2 0 17 Issue N o 280

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

FINE DINING in Paris FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

ON THE COVER

Sample a delicious dessert at Le Cinq Photo © Jean-Claude Amiel

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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

ART DIRECTOR  PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko

Paris boasts an extraordinary number of art and cultural foundations, making it one of the top cultural destinations in the world. In this month’s issue we take you to the magnificent Fondation Louis Vuitton and the Fondation Cartier where unique collections are exhibited.

We also meet French chef Christian Le Squer, the talented culinary wiz behind the George V Hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurants.

To many visitors Paris defines fashion and romance and in our Shopping section we combine the two to bring you our Spring Bride photo shoot with gorgeous dresses that will make your princess dreams come true.

For our foodies our Dining pages offer a delicious round-up of the month’s best restaurants with a special round up of where to eat clean in the culinary capital of the world. Meanwhile, in our Entertainment section we bring you the city’s new bars and clubs as well as a unique experience in Chantilly, turn to page 79 for all the details.

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8 W H E R E PA R I S I M AY 2017

PIERRE SOULAGES

Peinture 92 x 73 cm, 21 mars 1975 Brou de noix and acrylic on canvas, 92 x 73 cm

62 rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris • T. + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 Mon - Sat 10 am - 7.30 pm & Sun 11 am - 7 pm • paris@operagallery.com • operagallery.com

May

HOT DATES Discover the best of May in Paris

California Cuisine FROM MAY 16TH TO 27TH American chef Ari Taymor is being welcomed into the Grand Amour family with the hotel restaurant’s menu featuring a menu within a menu. Besides the restaurant’s standard menu, diners can discover Taymor’s cuisine with the Café Henrie’s menu for lunch and the Alma degustation menu for dinner, both showcasing the chef’s culinary talents, à la California, with lots of flavour and healthy goodness.

18 rue de la Fidélité (10th), 01 44 16 03 30 10 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Café Henrie’s menu © Grand Amour; La vérité entre deux langues, 2016, pascALEjandro, credit photo Dennis Bouchard ; Auguste Rodin, Androm de 1887 marbre ® Artcurial; Cara Delevingne - Cannes Photo © de Grisogono

PARIS THIS MONTH

Combined Talent ALL MONTH The Galerie Azzedine Alaïa is presenting, for the first time, the works of pascALEjandro, the creative works of married couple Pascale Montandon-Jodorowsky and Alejandro Jodorowsky. The exhibition, entitled L’Androgyne Alchimique, showcases the drawings of Alejandro that are brought to life with Pascale’s colours.

18 rue de la Verrerie (4th)

Cannes Film Festival FROM MAY 17TH TO 28TH

A Unique Auction MAY 30 TH Today, Artcurial will be auctioning off Andromède, a rare marble sculpture by Auguste Rodin. Rodin gifted the piece, a long lost masterpiece that is believed to have stayed in the same family for over 130 years, to Chilean diplomat Carlos Morla Vicuña and his wife, Luisa in 1888. Perfectly timed with the centenary of Rodin’s death, the piece will be exhibited from the 26th of the month to the 30th, before it will be auctioned off at 8pm.

7 Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 42 99 20 20

This year marks the 70th anniversary of the film festival, which celebrates international cinema.

Held in the South of France, the festival sees the glamorous stars ascend Les Grandes Marches, draped in couture and diamonds. You can share in all the glitz and glamour of the Cannes Film Festival right here in the French capital by enjoying champagne and cocktails at the Ritz Bar, one of the city’s most popular bars, where you can probably spot one or two of the world’s rich and famous.

15 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 43 16 33 74 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 11

PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs MAY 1-8 FOIRE DE PARIS

Paris Bike Festival FROM MAY 12TH TO 14TH Avid bike riders are invited to discover the very first edition of the Paris Bike Festival being held at the Hippodrome de Longchamp. Bringing together all types of bikes, the festival will showcase all types of bikes including E-Bikes that visitors can test ride. Bike riders can also take part in the Paris Bike Challenge, with two competitions being held, one for adults and the other for children aged between 8 and 14, to show off their talents.

Visit www.parisbikefestival.com for all practical information.

This vast fair, over 100 years young, is the greatest place in Paris to shop for just about anything.

There are unique items for the home, for sport and leisure, well-being as well as fashion and food from around the world. The Concours Lépine International, the international invention competition, is held during the fair, and live shows featuring Caribbean music and dance are held throughout the day. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.foiredeparis.fr Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th)

MAY 4-8 RÉVÉLATIONS This international fair of fine craft and creation organised by Ateliers d’Art de France presents an array of works by designers, creators and craftsmen. This unique, biennial event reveals a wealth of talents and crafts. Chile is the guest of honour this year with films, conferences, guided tours and children’s workshops on the agenda.

The show is open from 10am to 8pm and until 7pm on the 8th. www.revelations-grandpalais.com Grand Palais, ave Winston Churchill (8th)

MAY 6-8 PORTES OUVERTES

MAY 3RD Tonight and every Wednesday night, Très Honoré Restaurant and Bar, holds an open mic night downstairs in the bar where amateur and professional singers can sing their hearts out, and if you’ve ever dreamed of performing in Paris here is your chance. You can sign up by sending an email to soireebuzzthb@gmail.com to register your performance with Buzz de Rocco de Robien & Brian Scott Bagley, the house band, or you can wait until you are at the bar and have had a couple of drinks to build up the courage.

35 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 44 86 97 97

The French Open FROM MAY 22ND Beginning today the French Open will see the Roland Garros courts welcome the world’s top-ranking tennis players who will battle it out for the coveted cup. Watch as the excitement mounts with every passing day of the Open with everyone wondering if Djokovic will walk away the winner again this year.

Visit rolandgarros.fft-tickets.com/uk for all ticketing information.

12 W H E R E PA R I S I M AY 2017

MAY 18-31 CARRÉ RIVE GAUCHE Antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements present fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces at this artful event celebrating its 40th birthday this year. This year’s theme is ExtraORdinaire and objects and works in gold will be featured in the galleries. The galleries are open from 11am to 7pm. www.carrerivegauche.com Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

MAY 27-28 PAGE(S) EN MAI This show brings together beautiful books destined for the contemporary bibliophile with some 30 editors, engravers, artists and poets from France and abroad presenting their books and objects at the Bastille Design Centre. The show is open from 2pm to 8pm on the 27th and from 10am to 7pm on the 28th. www.pages-paris.com 74 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th)

Roland Garros © FFT

Singing in Paris

Some 37 artists in and around the quaint Père Lachaise neighbourhood are opening up their studios to the public offering a visit into the creative world of artists, their techniques and works in progress. This quarter in eastern Paris is rich in studios, gallery-boutiques and venues tucked away in greenery transformed into galleries for the event. The studios are open from 2pm to 8pm. www.apla.fr Information and map available at Librairie Equipages, 61 rue de Bagnolet (20th)

“My job is to respect these tastes [natural produce] and make them more vivid and vital�

Interview

Christian Le Squer ® Stephane de Bourgies - Chef Le Squer 2016; Four Seasons George V, Line-fished Sea Bass, Caviar, Fermented Milk - © Jean Claude Amiel

THE DELICIOUS TALENT OF

Christian Le Squer

T

he tightly furled jade-green cabbage sitting on chef Christian Le Squer’s desk was grown near L’Orient, a port town in the beautiful Morbihan region of Brittany, France’s shaggy, craggy westernmost Atlantic province. It had been offered to the chef, who’s also from the Morbihan region, by one of his suppliers earlier on a busy morning inside the immaculate kitchens of Le Cinq at the Hôtel George V in Paris, but whatever the vegetable’s indisputable gastronomic merits may be it’s also sort of a beautiful totem of Le Squer’s brilliant career.

To wit, beyond the spectacular technical skills Le Squer has mastered during the three decades since he moved to Paris from Brittany and began cooking in a succession of the French capital’s best restaurants, the rudder of his superb cooking will always be a reflexive humility born of a profound respect for the implicit gastronomic perfection found in nature. “Bretons grow up knowing and loving the purity of the sea, and this has a huge impact on our palates, because we know that nature is always honest.

There’s simply nothing better than the tastes of

By Alexander Lobrano

produce as nature made it,” says Le Squer. “My job is to respect these tastes and make them more vivid and vital, and often this is best done with an elegant but profoundly subtle sauce.

These sauces are the genius of the French kitchen,” he adds.

Among the signature dishes of the three-starred Michelin chef, Le Cinq proposes dishes that are angelic, turbot with a puree of tiny ratte potatoes and apple emulsion; flirtatious, large crispy Brittany langoustines with oyster-flavoured whipped cream; and earthy and sensual, including my favourite, smoked black Venere rice with a ruddy cream of boudin noir (blood sausage) and passion fruit coulis, the latter adding a racy acidity to a lusciously funky preparation.

The menu changes every season and offers a range of options to suit all tastes and hungers, including the 9-course “Balade Gourmande” menu served at dinner, and a 4-course or 6-course “Déjeuner Gourmand” menus at lunch.

The consistent wick of Le Squer’s cooking, however, is his spectacular but judicious creativity, the flawless technical precision of

every dish, and the beauty of the way in which they’re plated.

Now a sous-chef steps into the glass-walled office in a corner of the busy kitchen with something for the chef and his guest, me, to taste, a plate of tiny fragile tarts filled with a luscious flan of chicken livers topped with chopped tiny cornichons, those miniature cucumbers in vinegar that are perhaps the most emblematic of all French pickles, and shallots. “I think we need a glass of wine with these tartlettes,” says Le Squer, a warm, enthusiastic and very amiable man. He nods at an assistant, and continues. “So what I’ve learned through the years is to become a composer, a composer of tastes and textures, because aside from the work of sourcing the best possible produce, this is the most fascinating and challenging part of my work, creating compositions that surprise people and delight them. The way that I often work is that I imagine the taste of a dish and then I look for the ingredients that will create it. Sometimes it can take weeks, even months before I get it right, because I am such a perfectionist and a little bit obsessive.” A waiter arrives and serves two w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15

Le Squer sips his wine and grins. “Ahhhh, Alexandre, que la vie est belle, non?” (Life is good, no?). The buttery wine is sublime, and we’ve just started nibbling the exquisite tarts, intriguingly edible cameos of bracingly acidulous tastes tethered by base notes of umami, when a distinguished older gentleman appears in the doorway. Le Squer leaps to his feet. “Serge, Bonjour! Please join us!” Serge Michel, 90, one of the most distinguished businessmen in France and a member of the legendary Club des Cent, the most elite private dining club in Gaul, takes a place at the table. Michel, who has lunch at Le Cinq several times a week, was just stopping by to pay his respects.

Now Le Squer becomes visibly excited, explaining that it was “Monsieur Michel who really taught me how to cook.” What Le Squer means is that it was Monsieur Michel who recruited him from the Grand Hotel, where he’d won his first Michelin star in 1996, to take over the Pavillon Ledoyen in the gardens of the 16 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Champs-Elysées in 1999. “It was a remarkable opportunity for me,” Le Squer says almost breathlessly, and Michel observes him with a gently bemused almost avuncular affection.

“J’avais raison de lui faire venir,” (I was right to bring him along) says Michel, who explains that he dines primarily in three Parisian restaurant, Le Cinq, Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and Restaurant Helen, perhaps because these tables respond to the original criteria of Le Club de Cent when it was founded in 1912, “We seek to create a list of those places where you eat delicious things served on clean plates on immaculate white table cloths.”

Before Monsieur Michel excuses himself to return to his table in the elegant dining room on the other side of the kitchen door, he offers an opinion on the tartlette. “Très, très bonne,” he says with a twinkle in his eye and excuses himself. Le Squer takes the compliment with the happy smile of a child on Christmas Day, and shakes his head.

“You know, I am a very lucky man. I was born happy, that’s what my grandmother always said to me when I was a boy. I came from a happy family, and I saw the beauty of real craft when I was a boy, because my father was a (ebéniste) cabinetmaker. We ate fish that was just a few hours out of the sea and vegetables from our

garden, a diet that was simple but succulent. And I found my métier easily, too. I was working on a boat as a young man, and meals were the highlight of the day, a time of pleasure and conviviality. So one day that was it, I knew that I wanted to be a cook, that I wanted to be the person who created this happiness,” says Le Squer, who studied at a hotel school in Vannes in Brittany and moved to Paris immediately once he graduated.

“I love Paris, because the city offers such a superbly knowledgeable, exigent and adventurous clientele, both French and foreign, for a chef. And I am a profoundly Parisian chef, because the city is my font of inspiration, its smells, sounds, light, colours, markets, architecture, everything about it fascinates me and stimulates.

There’s almost nothing I love more than riding my bicycle to work or going for long walks in the city,” says Le Squer, a decidedly boyish fifty-four-year old. I ask him what it is exactly that makes him a “very Parisian chef,” and he replies, “Maybe it’s breaking and respecting the codes of a certain French gastronomic elegance at the same time. You might even say that my cooking is like a Chanel jacket worn with a pair of jeans.

Parisian good taste is always a little irreverent.”

Four Seasons George V - Dessert © Jean Claude Amiel

glasses of Meursault, one of the greatest of all the white wines produced in Burgundy (The wine list at Le Cinq, which is run by Eric Beaumard, one of the world’s greatest sommeliers, runs to over 50,000 bottles).

Interview At Ledoyen, he held three Michelin stars for twelve consecutive years, and then in 2014 he was headhunted by José Silva, the general manager of the Four Seasons George V, to take over the kitchens of Le Cinq with the aim of helping the restaurant recover its third Michelin star. This supreme Gallic gastronomic benediction arrived in 2016 after a herculean amount of work. “I could never have done it alone, you know.

The three stars belong as much to my team as they do to me,” says Le Squer, adding, “And now I am completely serene, because I have nothing to prove anymore. I’m completely confident of my knowledge of flavours and my ability to build taste. The stars are a wonderful recognition, of course, but many chefs find them a burden, since there is always the fear they might be withdrawn. I don’t think about this, though, because my goal is to create emotions, and I know that I do this.

Also, the experience of any chef’s cooking is like visiting a museum. You won’t like every painting you see in the museum, you’ll like some better than others, and some not at all. But even if they’re not to your personal taste, you can still admire them.”

Four Seasons George V - Ceps Mushroom & Ham Truffle Spaghetti © Jean Claude Amiel

Commenting on the Paris dining scene today, Le Squer says that he’s very optimistic. “The restaurant offer in Paris today is spectacular, and the produce is incredible. Our butchers, our bakers, our cheese-mongers are better than ever before, and we have all of these passionate young people like Alexandre Drouard and Samuel Nahon, the founders of Terroirs d’Avenir who are passionate about finding the very best small producers in France and showcasing them at their boutiques in Paris and also supplying them to chefs. It’s a remarkable time to live in or visit Paris for anyone who loves good food as much as I do.”

Outside the kitchen, Le Squer is a passionate traveller and reader, pleasures he shares with his wife, and an avid gallery goer. I ask him who his favourite painter is, and I’m not at all surprised by his answer. “Claude Monet. His impressionism makes great sense to me, because it expresses visual images in the same way I aspire to express taste.” Outside of his office, the kitchen is getting busy as the first lunch orders come in, so I thank the charming chef for so much of his time, Le Squer is the kind of man you could happily chat with for hours, and start gathering my things. “It’s a shame we can’t have more of this Meursault together,” he says, gesturing at the wine in an ice bucket, and then, he turns the tables for a second with a few questions of his own before I leave. “Alexandre, the cornichon tartlette, what did you really think?” It was brilliant, I tell him. “But did it need a tiny pinch of Cayenne or Espelette pepper? Or maybe a barely perceptible note of something sweet to temper the acidity of the pickles?” No, not to my palate, I reply, and I’m moved by this fleeting glimpse of the deep reasoning, insistent logic and fierce attention to detail that define the seriousness of his cooking beyond the distraction of his eminently affable personality.

A few days after my chat with Le Squer, I’m still dreaming about those spectacular little chicken-liver, cornichon and shallot tartlettes when I sit down at the kitchen table to eat a quick sandwich in the middle of a very busy work day. I page through a French magazine as I eat, and I come across a little interview with Le Squer. The French journalist asks him what vegetable he would be if he were a vegetable, and he replies, “Un chou.” (a cabbage). Of course he’d be a cabbage, I muse, both the man and the vegetable are humble but full of delicious possibilities and deeply nourishing, and then I can’t stop myself from thinking that when the chou fits, Christian Le Squer won’t wear it, he’ll cook it.

Le Cinq Four Seasons George V Hotel 31 ave George V (8th), 01 49 52 71 5

Exhibitions

FREQUENTING

Foundations

By Patricia Valicenti

18 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Take in the new Art/Afrique exhibition at the Fondation Louis Vuitton (opposite page) and the Autophoto exhibition at the Fondation Cartier (above)

tion (unknown photographer, 1958), Collection of the artist © Luciano Rigolini

Art/Africa, the New Studio exhibition at the Fondation Louis Vuitton, Calixte Dakpogan (1958, Bénin) Médiateur, 2010 Technique mixte, 43 x 36 x 17 cm Inv# BE/CDK.058 Crédit : © Calixte Dakpogan; The Autophoto Exhibition at the Fondation Cartier, Luciano Rigolini, Tribute to Giorgio de Chirico, 2017, Appropria-

Exhibitions

P

aris houses a number of art and cultural foundations offering original and diverse exhibitions along with complementary programmes revolving around concerts, films and conferences. Sleek automobiles, contemporary African art, video games, art in the age of Rembrandt and three generations of German drawings are among the current offerings.

The Fondation Louis Vuitton is housed in a spectacular building designed by American architect Frank Gehry and emerges amidst the greenery of the Bois de Boulogne nestled on the western edge of Paris. The building features spaces dedicated to the permanent collections, temporary exhibitions and commissioned works.

The foundation is currently hosting Art/ Afrique, Le Nouvel Atelier (Art/Africa, the New Studio), showing all month it is presenting recent works created by artists throughout the African continent from subSaharan Africa to South Africa. The show is played out in the foundation’s galleries in three sections. First up, The Insiders brings together a selection of works by 15 iconic artists, dating from 1989 to 2009, emanating from Jean Pigozzi’s collection of African art, which is being presented in Paris for the first time. The artists, each deeply influenced by the spiritual, scientific and craft traditions of their country of origin, depict unique worlds in various mediums. The Fondation Louis Vuitton is also presenting, parallel to The Insiders, Being There, a collective show of works by artists from South Africa. The show includes works by some 15 contemporary

artists working in various mediums ranging from installation works to photography, painting, textile and video.

Complementing these two sections is a third, with works from the Fondation Louis Vuitton Collection that go beyond the African continent to include African artists working outside their countries of origin as well as Afro-American artists. A programme of events revolving around music, poetry, literature and cinema in conjunction with the show is also on the agenda.

Surrounded by a nature-filled garden bursting with biodiversity and housed in a unique light-flooded building designed by architect Jean Nouvel, the Fondation Cartier showcases exhibitions, conferences and artistic productions. The w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19

See the Three Centuries of Drawing in Germany exhibition at the Fondation Custodia

foundation, located footsteps from the Montparnasse neighbourhood, is dedicated to promoting and raising public awareness of contemporary art and organises a programme of exhibitions of individual artists and themes and also commissions works from artists.

Currently on the agenda is a show devoted to the automobile underscoring the links between the car and photography. Running all month and entitled Autophoto, the show aims to show the influence of the car on the techniques and creative process of photographers by giving them new subject materials, a new way of discovering the world and a new method of expression.

The aesthetic, social, industrial and environmental aspects of the automobile 20 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

from 1900 to the present can be discovered through a selection of some 500 photographs by more than 90 photographers including Jacques-Henri Lartigue, William Eggleston, Lee Friedlander and Robert Doisneau. The show offers a complete panorama of the car with, for instance, the chaos of Parisian traffic being captured in the early 20th century. There are series of photographs of road trips, trips facilitated by the rise of the automobile, portraits of cars by themselves, parked on a street and with their proud owners. Cars, too, as images in the show underscore, brought along a host of new photographic techniques, like reflections in the windows or rear-view mirrors and frames that are jostled from the movement of the car. In short, this show pays tribute to the symbol of dreams and freedom that the car embodied in the 20th century.

Meanwhile, within walking distance from the Fondation Cartier over on the scenic Rue Récamier, a pedestrian street that culminates in a cul-de-sac, sits the Espace Fondation EDF, which is free and open to all and which is dedicated to presenting art and creations from all periods. The current show is full of fun for the whole family. Entitled Game and running all month, visitors can discover video games through the ages.

Some 60 games are on hand with over half that can actually be played, demonstrating the evolutions and revolutions in a sector that today generates tens of billions of dollars throughout the planet. The show asks the critical question as to whether or not video games are art while offering some 15 reproductions of emblematic games over the decades. Another portion of the show offers the public a number of interactive

Three Centuries of Drawing in Germany exhibition at the Fondation Custodia, Carl Julius Milde (1803-1875), Figure féminine dans des rinceaux de style pompéien, Aquarelle, 219 x 268 mm © Collection particulière / Photo : Johannes von Mallinckrodt, Londres

Exhibitions

votive procession [to exile], 2015 Laine et fils sur toile de tapisserie 195 x 195 cm © Athi Patra-Ruga/ Courtesy Galerie What If The World

Game exhibition at the Espace Fondation EDF , Le jeu Rayman, 1995 © Ubisoft ; Game exhibition at the Espace Fondation EDF, Assassin’s Creed II Ezio Auditore © Ubisoft / Assassin’s Creed; Art/Africa, the New Studio exhibition at the Fondation Louis Vuitton, Athi Patra-Ruga (1984, Afrique du Sud) The

Exhibitions

Discover the Game exhibition at the Espace Fondation EDF (top and above left) and the Art/Afrique exhibition at the Fondation Louis Vuitton (top right)

experiences notably those revolving around virtual reality.

Nestled within an 18th century mansion in the sophisticated 7th arrondissement near the Assemblée Nationale of the French Parliament, is the Hôtel Turgot. The distinguished building houses the Fondation Custodia, which manages the Frits Lugt collection and hosts temporary exhibitions for the public often featuring masterworks.

Currently two shows are on through to May 7th. The exhibition Du Dessin au Tableau au Siècle de Rembrandt

(From the Drawing to the Painting during the Century of Rembrandt) plunges the visitor into the creation of Dutch painting in the 17th century. Presenting some 25 paintings and 100 drawings, the exhibition features works by, among others, Rembrandt and Ruisdael. Meanwhile, a second show, La Quête de la Ligne. Trois siècles de Dessin en Allemagne (In search of the Line. Three Centuries of Drawing in Germany) brings together 100 works tracing the history of drawing in Germany from the beginning of the 17th century to the 19th century.

FONDATION CARTIER 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01 42 18 56 50 FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON Bois de Boulogne 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01 40 69 96 00 ESPACE FONDATION EDF 6 rue Récamier (7th), 01 40 69 96 00 FONDATION CUSTODIA 121 rue de Lille (7th), 01 47 05 75 19

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21

The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

Diamant Blanc dress de Grisogono white gold and diamond Gocce earrings, and grey gold and diamond Chiocciola ring

22 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Photo © Alex Fadel

For Her | For Him | Gift Ideas | Spas | Beauty | For Children

SHOPPING

For Her

Covered by Chakra The month of May means that the Cannes Film Festival is just around the corner and that wedding fever is at an all-year high, and both major events mean one thing, dresses, and more precisely, beautiful, couture gowns. Lebanese designer Georges Chakra’s Spring/Summer Haute Couture collection perfectly answers, at once, every spring bride’s hope of finding that perfect dress and offers festival attendees a one-of-a-kind dress to turn heads in. the collection is a beautiful marriage between delicate tulle, romantic pastel hues and gorgeous use of embroidery and crystals.

Bohème Rock © Photographie Baptiste Hauville de You Made My Day Photography; Maquillage coiffure Anissa Renko

Georges Chakra Showroom 6 ave du Président Wilson (8th), 01 47 20 11 04

A Parisian Wedding Wedding dress designer David Purves’s latest collection embraces tradition and modernity with voluminous dresses that remain true to the designer’s haute couture background. Inspired by the bohemian feel of the city’s Left Bank and the urban vibe of Paris’s Right Bank, Purves brings to life the romance of the city in the form of wedding gowns that define understated sophistication. Lace, embroidery and silhouettes that elegantly drop and full skirts that create beautiful movements make up the designer’s collection, which lets every bride feel like a Parisian princess.

Bohème Rock by David Purves Atelier - Showroom 3 rue de Fleurus (6th), 01 43 20 71 42 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 23

SHOPPING For Him

Travel in Style Created in 1935, the house of Aubercy is known for its elegant footwear for posh gentlemen, designing shoes that are both comfortable and distinguished. The family-run house also designs a line of leather goods including this new weekend bag, the Dandy.

The Dandy bag is the perfect carry-on size for travelling gentlemen who look for practicality when travelling and also accessories that will complement both their taste and look. What makes this weekend bag so perfect for travel is its ingenious foldout design.

The bag unfolds to reveal a clothes hanger for a suit and a pouch for shirts, making sure that upon arrival your outfit is wrinkle-free.

Aubercy Boutique 34 rue Vivienne (2nd), 01 42 33 93 61

Wear Your Favourite Emoji Following in the success of their first emoji collection, Acne Studios has released a second capsule collection inspired by the brand’s Resort 2017 collection. T-shirts, sweatshirts and hoodies feature a colourful range of emojis, which include rainbow-coloured mushrooms, dancing teddy bears and peace signs. The fun collection is made of 100% cotton and is the perfect wardrobe staple for any gentlemen who cannot get enough of the use of emojis, whether in messages or on clothing items.

Acne Studios 124 Galerie Valois (1st), 01 42 60 16 62

24 W H E R E PA R I S I M AY 2017

Elemental Time Design and innovation are the hallmarks of the house of RJ-Romain Jerome, the independent Geneva-based watchmaking house, founded in the 21st century, which incorporates the elements into its collections be it the magic of the moon, the power of lava or the mysteries beneath the sea. The house has just launched its third collection paying tribute to the Icelandic volcano Eyjafjallajökull as part of the house’s Earth universe. The Eyjafjallajökull-DNA Burnt Lava watch has been brought out in a limited edition of 99 pieces and is housed in a 46mm case in black PVD-coated steel featuring a Swiss-made mechanical self-winding movement and the house’s signature rusted and stabilised steel bezel. It is the highly crafted dial that draws in the eye. Placed on an onyx baseplate the genuine lava rock has been hand worked by a craftsman to reproduce the rock cracking under the lava pressure. - P.V..

Available at Colette 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 55 35 33 90

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

TASAKI

celebrates spring with pearls

By Kyra Brenzinger

S

pring and the bloom of the worldrenown Sakura cherry blossom trees are must-sees in Japan, home to Tasaki, the jewellery brand established in 1954 with over 60 retail stores and its flagship store based in Tokyo. In Paris, Tasaki’s charming pieces are also blossoming throughout the capital, and we invite you to see it first-hand on an exclusive journey.

A morning at Le Bon Marché: This symbolic department store located in the rive gauche area is where the Japanese brand Tasaki chose to set up its shop in 2014, revealing its expertise and collections to a sophisticated Parisian clientèle for the very first time. Its signature Balance ring and its matching earrings turned heads immediately. The ring’s five perfectly aligned Akoya pearls showcase Tasaki’s masterful skill as the number one Akoya pearl producer in the world. Exclusively sold at Le Bon Marché, the brand is launching its new M/G Tasaki collection created with FrancoGreek designer Mélanie Georgacopoulos. Her visionary mindset offers a modern, designoriented perspective on pearls, splitting them in two to reveal their very core. The collection is as contemporary as Le Bon Marché’s highly artistic location.

An afternoon at Printemps: On the right bank of Paris you will find a Tasaki boutique at

Printemps Haussmann, where the brand just launched a temporary pop-up store (open until fall 2017) on the second floor in the espace luxe, surrounded by the most prestigious international brands. It’s the perfect time to browse the many pieces dreamed up by Tasaki’s Creative Director, Thakoon Panichgul, with a markedly contemporary twist on pearls.

architecture, luxurious woodwork and windows offering a glimpse into the very soul of the brand’s creations. Its fine jewellery adornments also showcase diamonds, highlighting the Japanese brand’s privileged status as a sightholder, buying rough diamonds from De Beers in order to size them and garnish their creations.

The Refined Rebellion collection is an ideal example, sporting its cone-shaped garnet or diamond crowns to elongate the pearls. The most recent collection—Balance Note—is a poetic allusion to musical notes with pearl embellishing. This collection is an excellent choice to don on a stroll around Place Madeleine or en route to Place Vendôme when you’re done shopping.

The Fireworks necklace or Balance Unite ring with half white and half black pearls would be a precious companion to join you at l’Espadon, the two-star restaurant in the heart of the Ritz.

A night at the Ritz Paris: To end your Parisian adventure on a high note, why not dine at the world-class Place Vendôme? It is here in the Ritz gallery that Tasaki opened its first boutique in Europe, with refined interior

These accents will transport you into the Parisian fairytale you’ve always dreamed of!

From the top: Jewellery from the Refined Rebellion collection, Akoya pearls, diamonds on white gold.

Stellar ring from the M/G TASAKI collection, Akoya pearl on yellow gold. Balance Unite ring with black and white pearls from the South Sea, diamonds on white gold.

LE BON MARCHÉ RIVE GAUCHE 24 rue de Sèvres, Paris 7th – Tel: +33 (0)1 44 39 80 00 Open 7 days a week PRINTEMPS HAUSSMANN Pop-up store 1st floor Luxe - 64 blvd Haussmann, Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 50 00 RITZ PARIS Galerie du Ritz Paris - 15 place Vendôme, Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 36 33 00. Open 7 days a week www.tasaki.fr w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 25

SHOPPING Gift Ideas

Say

Oui

with…

Amber Sakai’s Oui Oui tiara Available at Mad Lords 316 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 45 25 08 31

Dior’s Oui rings Dior Joaillerie Boutique 8 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 42 96 30 84

Pandora’s charms 132 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 42 22 31 44

Giorgio Armani’s Sì perfume Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 93 22 50 26 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Le Chocolat des Français’s milk chocolate Available at La Grande Epicerie de Paris 38 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 81 00

Macon & Lesquoy broche Available at Le Bon Marché 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00

Le CHocolat des Francais Photo © Le Chocolat Français

Graf’s Yes clutch bag Graf Boutique 3 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 20 53 01

ATTENTE PAGE 27

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SHOPPING Spas

A TREATMENT for EVERY NEED

Icy Cold Increase your cell rejuvenation, boost collagen levels and improve your skin tone with cryotherapy. The latest beauty craze has hit Paris and at PØle, a spa specialising in minus temperature treatments, lets you step into one of their two cryotherapy chambers where for 3 minutes you stand in -196°C, letting the cold work its polar magic and releasing your body of toxins.

PØle 13 rue du Bouloi (1st), 01 40 41 91 18

With the opening of the new hotel, Le Roch, comes a new spa to massage your knots away. Codage, known for creating unique skincare formulas for each client, applies its philosophy to the treatments offered here at the spa, and there is no better treatment to try than the Couture Treatment. The 75-minute massage is a bespoke treatment that starts off by determining what texture you prefer when it comes to skincare products, a balm, a milk, a gel or a lotion, before the masseuse starts the body massage concentrating on the zones that need special attention before working up to your head for a scalp massage. The Couture Treatment ends with a facial, leaving your skin glowing, and that is why we recommend you book your treatment at the end of the day before returning to your hotel to sleep to avoid reapplying your make-up and letting the facial continue to work its magic overnight.

Codage Spa Le Roch Hotel & Spa 28 rue Saint-Roch (1st), 01 70 83 00 00 28 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Codage © Francis Amiand

Bespoke Treatments

SHOPPING Beauty

WEDDED Beauty BLISS Make sure you look your best on your big day with…

1 Aveda’s Tulasãra wedding range with an eye mask to reduce the visible signs of bags under your eyes, and the night mask to help repair your skin overnight, leaving it looking radiant Aveda Salon 7 rue du Louvre (1st), 01 40 26 18 07 2 Make sure you get a good night’s sleep with thisworks’s can’t sleep kit with the stress check roll-on to calm you and the deep sleep pillow spray that will help you slip into your sweetest dreams Available at Sephora 3 Farewell your single life with Kat Von D’s Studded Kiss lipstick in Bachelorette…

Available at Sephora 4 … Before using Burberry’s Liquid Lip Velvet in Light Nude on your wedding day Burberry Boutique 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 72 07 00 21 5 Enhance your glow with Laura Mercier’s Candleglow powder leaving your skin with a candlelit, satin finish Available at Printemps 6 Get yourself ready for your honeymoon with Alessandro’s aptly named Honeymoon nail polish Available at Nocibé

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SHOPPING Fashion

SPRING

Bride

Photographer: Alex Fadel Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Make-Up and Hair Artist: Julie Mandin Model: Nastya Goncharenko from Crystal Model Management Photographer’s Assistant: Batiste Dhont Farcy Special thanks to Hotel Baltimore

Sakina dress Harry Winston platinum and diamond Lariat necklace and platinum and diamond Cluster Chandelier earrings

StĂŠphanie Wolff dress and veil Tasaki white gold and diamond Epiphany necklace

Lambert Creation dress de Grisogono white gold and diamond Gocce earrings, and grey gold and diamond Chiocciola ring

Marylise dress Damiani white gold and diamond Emozioni necklace and earrings

Diamant Blanc dress Giuseppe Zanotti shoes David Morris white gold and diamond bracelet, earrings, ring and tiara

Pronovias dress Chanel white gold and diamond Les BlĂŠs necklace and earrings

Sakina dress Harry Winston platinum and diamond Secret Combination cuff bracelet, platinum and diamond Caftan earrings, and platinum and diamond cocktail ring

SHOPPING

For Children

Flower Girl Fashions

Skating Fashion

Fashion designer Laure de Sagazan, who specialises in wedding dresses, has designed three dresses for childrenswear brand Jacadi. The Laure de Sagazan x Jacadi capsule collection features three designs that are fit for the cutest flower girls. Pleated detailing, capped sleeves and embroidery transform the 20s-inspired dresses into dainty creations for any mademoiselle aged between 2 and 14 years old.

One of our favourite brands for children, Molo, is back this season with more cool and cute pieces for the little ones.

Printed t-shirts are hallmarks of the brand and the Spring/ Summer 2017 collection sees tees get the rebel treatment with short and long-sleeved t-shirts featuring tyres, stars and motorbikes that are sure to impress skater boys as well as skater girls. The collection also features A-line dresses with colourful exotic birds and ice-cream scoop sweaters for girls and boys get a lot of attitude-oozing pieces including slogan t-shirts and hoodies.

Jacadi Boutique 73 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01 45 49 46 88

Available at Galeries Lafayette

Barbie Girl If your little girl is obsessed with Barbie then she will love the new range of Barbie perfumes. Made in France, the three scents are inspired by three different personalities, Sweet Girl, Sporty Girl and Glam Girl. The Sweet version has notes of vanilla, almond and coconut, literally embodying the term sweet with its dessert notes while the Sporty scent is fresher and embraces the outdoors with notes of magnolia, mandarin and blackcurrant.

And for the mini fashionista, the Glam Girl perfume is a mixture of lemon, Granny Smith apples and jasmine. Each bottle comes with a collector’s edition ring, giving every Barbie girl a cool accessory to wear.

Available at Nocibé

38 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

LOUIS QUATORZE

F

Classically Modern

rench knowhow and classic design embodying trendy and original details are the hallmarks of the house of Louis Quatorze. The luxury house brings out fine leather goods in calfskin blending the modern with the traditional to offer that quintessential French touch. It all began back in 1980 in the royal town of Versailles when Paul Baratte, a leather craftsman, founded the house, paying tribute to the Sun King, Louis XIV, who built the Château de Versailles and is regarded as the father of French luxury. The first workshop/ boutique was established in the Madeleine neighbourhood in Paris and the brand quickly drew attention for visitors could see the bags being fashioned out of fine French leather right in the shop.

The house’s Signature collection was launched in 1981 followed by Nostalgie in 1983 whose advertising campaign featured the Orient Express. The brand would quickly become popular in Asia as well and in 1984 the house fashioned a clutch in black crocodile decorated with platinum and adorned with pearls and diamonds. Selling for US$74,816 in Japan, it was at the time the most expensive accessory in the world.

Today, Louis Quatorze’s flagship boutique is nestled in the heart of the Marais inviting guests into a sumptuous and welcoming space that re-incarnates the bedroom of the Sun King. On the ground floor visitors can discover the current collection while upstairs

vintage pieces are on exhibit along with the men’s collection and at times a temporary art exhibition.

The brand frequently showcases French artists working in diverse mediums and recent shows have included the celebrated celebrity portraits of the mythical Parisian Studio Harcourt and the magnificent flowers created by the artist and craftsman William Amor from recycled plastic bags.

The house’s new collection is entitled Future Light and represents the future as seen through the prism of French Modernism drawing its inspiration in particular from Le Corbusier, a figurehead of the movement. The collection’s campaign was shot in a setting featuring an arid and rocky Martian landscape

where in certain sequences an astronaut emerges giving the scene a futuristic aspect.

The astronaut expresses the challenges of the future through contact with the harshness of the raw landscape, which symbolises the beginning of the world. This out of the ordinary encounter between two universes represents the philosophy of French Modernism, the concept of the new collection, which embodies the boundaries of the past and the future. The house has recently opened a corner store designed by Paul Mathieu in the Galeries Lafayette department store.

Louis Quatorze Boutiques 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01 42 72 94 43 Galeries Lafayette, 21 boulevard Haussmann (9th)

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Address Book

SHOPPING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ACCESSORIES

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Le Carré d’Encre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th), 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine

01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries Miki House - 366 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. M° Tuileries Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS

CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1 ), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Espace Weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lampe Berger Paris - 61 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.42.02.69.78. M° Saint-Sulpice Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Maison Abriza - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.43.87.74.69. M° Opera Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal st

BOOKS & MUSIC

FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour

Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

Wempe

| Jewellery & Watches

40 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th),

Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8 ), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt DSquared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. M° Concorde Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Iris Cantabri - 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th), 01.70.23.93.23. M° Hôtel de Ville Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine th

Guerlain

Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Y’s Yohji Yamamoto - 25 rue du Louvre (1st), 01.42.21.42.93. M° Etienne Marcel

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTRES Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (1st),

09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

EYE WEAR

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

FABRICS: COUTURE

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

HOME

Baccarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. M° Boissière

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66.

M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13.

M° Concorde

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12.

M° Madeleine Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78.

M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

| Beauty Spas & Products

SHOPPING

Address Book

Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd),

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 48 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.47.20.48.48. M° George V

A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Rolex ©Thomas Campion

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77.

M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries

By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00.

M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Château Euphorie - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.49.52.09.14. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Garland - 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.17.95. M° Opéra Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra

Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st),

01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1 ), st

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39.

M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine

Rolex

| Jewellery & Watches

01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde

Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th),

01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau

MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard

SHOES Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),

01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards

LINGERIE

LUGGAGE AND BAGS

Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th),

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Cesare Paciotti - 12 ave Montaigne (8th),

01.47.23.75.57. M° Alma Marceau Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

Yumi Katsura Paris

| Clothing: Men & Women w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 41

LUXURY MAP Vendôme

Gare Saint-Lazare

SHOP STOP

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT-LAZARE

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Passage du Havre

Le Carré d’Encre

ARTI CAUM

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• Episode Golfino OPÉRA • Bucherer Tag Heuer Loding • Montblanc Abriza •Mario Dessuti • • ••

Bally Hackett Omega Harmont & Blaine

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• • •Valérie Danenberg Missoni Honoré •Saint Ami • ••M.A.C • Bonpoint Colette

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42 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

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Lancel

• • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty

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Tommy Hilfiger

RU

Hedgren • O N B

H.Stern

41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 www.acaba.fr

L’Occitane

AN

I AR D VI R U E ÈD OU

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

Les Marquis

At Acaba, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will suit you. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. The 2015 collection comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very classic close to quite specials. 11am to 7pm. Closed on Sunday.

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•Basler Waskoll A. Lange • • Christofle & Söhne • AM • Repetto EC U R Corthay Y Garland • Lalique E Cartier Harrison • • OLN Piaget • Diesel V • Yumi Katsura Hugo Boss • E Panerai U • Bodum • R Jimmy Choo X •Dinh Van I IWC • PA Burma • A Alexander McQueen • E L • Lery Louis Vuitton Van Cleef • & Arpels • E D • Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier U Jaquet Droz R • • Dubail Dior Bvlgari • Anshindo • Damiani Miki • •Vacheron Constantin House Graff • • • • • • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Diamond’s Jaeger- Rolex • • R UE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Kusmi Tumi • S Blancpain • A N O Tea • de Grisogono VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU • • ST Breguet • Hublot RU • Zadig & ED Dior Patek Philippe Place du Marché FreyWille • ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz

MADELEINE

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ACABA

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Sephora

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J.M. Weston•

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Exaltation Lana di Capra

•Zwilling

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

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Uniqlo •

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12 bvld des Capucines - Paris 9th (M° Opéra) Tel: +33 (0)1 43 87 74 69 / www.abriza.fr

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This beautiful jewel-box of a boutique just footsteps from the Place Vendôme is specialised in decorative scented candles made in France by master craftsmen. The nine fine fragrances are made in Grasse from rare essences and noble raw materials and the candles themselves are enclosed in fine white Limoges porcelain beautifully decorated with refined touches of 24-carat enamelled gold.

RUE DE

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Lana Di Capra’s boutique in Place de l’Opéra is where you will find the designer’s world of cashmere. Discover the elegant handmade collection, which offers shoppers 180 colours to choose from.

ABRIZA

RUE DE

Printemps R U E JO U B ER T Mode

Printemps Beauté-Maison HAVRE- • Guerlain • CAUMARTIN Cerruti

LANA DI CAPRA

1 rue Aubert - Paris 9th (M° Opéra) Tel: +33 (0)1 44 94 01 73 www.lanadicapra.com

Printemps Homme

RUE

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Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann

LA DESTINATION MODE(1) Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

Situées en plein coeur de Paris, les Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann, symbole de l’élégance parisienne, s’étendent sur 70 000 m² et proposent plus de 3 500 marques, des plus abordables aux plus prestigieuses.

Fashion Show

A whole host of events and

VIP SERVICES

From March 3, 2017, at tend our fashion show and discover the latest fashion trends! Fashion shows take place each Friday at 3 PM in a private salon on the 4 th floor of Coupole. Reservation or information at: haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en

shopping opportunities every

Let us open the doors to a world of luxury and exclusivity.

Our experts in Fashion and Lifestyle offer you a unique experience through their exclusive tailored services.

Défilé de mode À partir du 3 Mars 2017, ne manquez pas l’occasion de découvrir les dernières tendances des plus grandes marques de mode.

Défilé tous les vendredis à 15h00 au 4 ème étage de Coupole.

Cet évènement est disponible uniquement sur réservation : haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en

sunday under the dome From 8 January 2017 to 31 December 2017

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann invites you to round off your weekend in style, every Sunday from 11am to 7pm!

TASTIER THAN EVER BRUNCHES After a workout, time to refuel! Calling all foodies, some of Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann’s trendiest eating spots are now offering brunch: Angelina, Big Fernand, L’ice cube bar, Jour...and more besides.

Le plein d’animations et de shopping tous les dimanches sous la Coupole Du 8 Janvier 2017 au 31 Décembre 2017

Les Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann vous donnent rendezvous tous les dimanches de 11h00 à 19h00 pour finir le weekend en beauté !

DES BRUNCHS PLUS GOURMANDS QUE JAMAIS Après l’effort le réconfort ! Avis aux foodistas, les points de restauration les plus branchés des Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann proposent à présent leur brunch : Angelina, Big Fernand, L’ice cube bar, Jour... et bien d’autres encore.

EXCLUSIVE SERVICES Fashion consulting Beauty care Hands-free shopping Express alterations

Les services personnalisés Laissez-nous vous ouvrir les portes d’un univers luxueux et exclusif. Nos experts en Mode et Art de vivre à la française vous offriront une expérience unique à travers des services sur mesure.

DES SERVICES EXCLUSIFS : Conseil en style Soins de beauté Accompagnements en magasin

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN: 40, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN, 75009 PARIS METRO: CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE - Open Monday through Saturday from 9.30 AM to 8.30 PM and on Sunday from 11 AM to 7 PM. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 - haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/ (1) The ultimate shopping destination

Limousines / taxis on request Valet service

Retouches Express Limousines / taxis sur demande Service voiturier

LUXURY MAP

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

Leica •

• Sothys

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•Tom Ford N • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger • Coach • Alexander McQueen • Emporio Armani • Marc Jacobs • David Morris

• Burma Ciro pour

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AVE NU E GA BR IEL

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ROQ

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44 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

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• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • J.M. • Arije Weston •

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling

VA

Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

Yamamoto

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

•

RUE TRONCHET

• Eres • Swarovski

Lauren Église de la Madeleine • Lancaster • •Furla Marella • • Max Mara Kenzo ULE

RUE DE RIVOLI

Césaire•

• Yohji

WEMPE

DH

RUE

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

L ’A R C

MADELEINE

• •• •Wempe Ralph•

BO

Valentino •

Jardin des Tuileries

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

’

RG

•

•

• Royal Poiray Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

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RUE ROYALE

CONCORDE

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla Ermanno Scervino Longines Prada Pinko Chanel Dior Gucci

• •• • • • •

Lanvin

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

SHOP STOP

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t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

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JANSSENS & JANSSENS In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

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• Sotheby’sS G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Bally • •55 Croisette •Burberry Capel •Brunello Cucinelli Hogan • Ermenegildo U Zegna ’A N J O Roger Vivier • • • RUE D D’ANJOU RUE Valentino • Janssens Mettez Heurgon • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Dandys • Crockett • Chanel • Boucheron • &Jones Tod’s • • Givenchy IE R U Q S A • Cartier • RUE P Burberry Hermès Alessi • • RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette •

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Élysée Palace

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26 blvd Malesherbes - Paris 8 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 66 34 21 www.capelstore.fr

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With a 60-year experience, Capel is the French brand specialised in luxury ready-to-wear for big and tall men. The collections are the perfect combination of French style, perfect fitting, comfort and quality for both business and casual occasions. They also carry selected brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Paul & Shark and Pal Zileri. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-7pm.

EN

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Rimowa• Mugler • RUE • Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe

Daniel Levy

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• Christie’s

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RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

LUXURY MAP

Saint-Germain

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Atelier Valentin

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46 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

RUE

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MONTPARNASSE-BIENVENÜE

Tikibou Toy Store B V D

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Jardins du Luxembourg

RUE DE COND É

Parfums

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33 blvd Edgar Quinet - Paris 14 Tel: +33 (0)1 43 20 98 79 20 ave Félix Faure - Paris 15th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 58 17 44 www.tikibou.fr

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The oldest toy store in Paris where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites including Tintin, model cars, music boxes... There is a wonderful and fun selection for young and old alike, including a fine choice of scale models.

Église Saint-Sulpice RUE MÉZ IÉR ES

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BOULEV

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TIKIBOU TOY STORE

• Fabrice

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8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

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Poiray • Liu Jo BO Christian U • Façonnable L RUE • E VA Louboutin DE L Stella • RD Louis ’A B • SAI B AY • Agent Luna Etro • N Vuitton E T • Provocateur G • ERM Sonia • • Brunello • AIN Rykiel Moncler •Burberry Cucinelli Ralph Hugo Emporio • SAINT-GERMAIN Voyeurs • Lauren • Paul Smith • Boss DES-PRÉS Armani Paul & BOU • •Ami Joe • • Shadé • Césarée • LEV • De Fursac L.K. ARD • Y’s Stefanel• Cartier SAIN • Céline Bennett T-GE RMA Ferragamo Rolex• • Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON • Hackett• Crockett & Jones Alexis Mabille Montblanc • • Kenzo • • Gas Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Bijoux Saint Laurent• L’Ibis Rouge • O U R Silk & • DU F RUE • Cashmere Sportmax• Prada • Marina • Tod’s Rinaldi Max&Moi • • U FOUR La Perla • Alain Mikli • D • Durance RUE M.A.C.• Dot-Drops • • Repetto Le Mont Implicite Omega Lampe Berluti • RES • • Berger Paris Saint Saint Michel • E SÉV D • • E RUE DE BABYLONE • RU Agnès b Laurent Longines •• Camper •Wille Lancaster • SU LP IC E T• Frey IN SA SÉVRES-BABYLONE Longchamp RUE • • Eléonore • Hermès Emaldi Robert • E IC Galet • ULP Clergerie -S SAINT-SULPICE Zadig ST E U R Le Bon Loxwood & Voltaire ES R V • Marché S É

S PA IL ARD RA

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality.

DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials.

Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

EJ AC

Faienceries • de Gien

RUE BON A PA

BOULEV

DOT-DROPS®

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30 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 44 07 04 28 www.ateliervalentin-paris.com

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Atelier Valentin, situated in the heart of Saint-Germain, offers a large selection of glasses and sunglasses, all handcrafted by the most distinguished designers and brands in the world, including Francis Klein, Anne & Valentin, Mykita and Olivier Goldsmith (pictured above). The boutique offers customers original and unique glasses, ensuring you stand out in a crowd.

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Musée d’Orsay

-10

% **

S P E C I A L T O U R I ST O F F E R

WEDNESDAY AGENCY - 44 GL 552 116 329 RCS PARIS

ON PRESENTATION OF THIS ADD AND YOUR FOREIGN PASSPORT BEFORE PAYMENT(1).

-12 % **

T O U R I ST TA X R E F U N D

FOR NON EUROPEAN UNION RESIDENTS ON TOTAL PURCHASE OVER 175€ NET (AFTER DISCOUNTS DEDUCTED) MADE ON THE SAME DAY, IN THE SAME STORE. THE 12% TAX REFUND CAN BE CUMULATED WITH THE 10% DISCOUNT(2).

G A L E R I E S L A F AY E T T E M O N T P A R N A S S E C E N T R E C O M M E R C I A L M O N T P A R N A S S E – 2 2 R U E D U D É PA R T T É L . : 0 1 4 5 3 8 5 2 8 7 – D U L U N D I A U S A M E D I D E 10 H À 2 0 H *The ultimate shopping destination **See store conditions. Voir conditions en magasin. (1) Offre touriste sur présentation de votre passeport étranger avant le paiement en caisse. (2) Détaxe pour tout résident hors Union Européenne. Offre valable à partir de 175€ d’achats nets réalisés le même jour dans le magasin. La détaxe -12 % peut se cumuler à l’offre touriste -10 %.

LUXURY MAP

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15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

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Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

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Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

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3-15 Galerie de Montpensier - Paris 1 Tel: +33 (0)1 40 15 07 98 M° Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre www.amber-paris.com

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Goyard • •Dubail Church’s• Paule Ka• TUILERIES Jack Russell • • Perrin

LA MAISON DE L’AMBRE

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Jamin Puech Hedgren

RU E CA MB ON Max&Moi • • • RU E • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • CA MB ON • Kiton Messika• • Hervé Léger Maison Tommy • Coach • Abriza Morabito• Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Chloé• • Brioni Ports • •Emporio Armani DsQuared2 • •Marc Jacobs Tumi• •David Morris Tasaki Arije Bally • J.M. • • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST

Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : 01 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

In the very heart of historic Paris this unique specialized amber store pleasantly surprises you with its diverse and exceptional designs of amber jewelry. All items are made exclusively of highquality natural amber.

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling • Lipault

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Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury.

Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands.

Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

Musée de l’Orangerie

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

Poiray • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

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Champs-Élysées-Montaigne

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•Adidas • Banana Republic • Weleda • Les Champs d’Or AVEN

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COURS

29 ave Montaigne - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 03 09 paris.montaigne@harrywinston.com www.harrywinston.com

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Founded in New York City, in 1932, The House of Harry Winston continues to set the standard for the ultimate in fine jewelry and high-end watch making.

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Armani Collezioni Corneliani PIER • GE V • Lacoste • RE 1 ER DE S Omega • EOR G ERB E IE NU Eric Bompard• AVE • Ellie • Bvlgari • Dubail Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard A Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • • E C • • AR Christofle Creed M Altan Bottier RUE UE Les Suites • EN • AV Arije• • PIE• RRE CHA Cartier •Givenchy Kusmi RRO • Rolex Scabal Tea • N • Chaumet Dubail •EORGE V Beretta • G E U N De Fursac Paule Ka • Arabian • AVE • R Oud Burma U • • E MARB Sicis • Franck • EUF •Tom FordRUE PIER•R Carvil Namani E JLC Opticien • CHA • Zilli RRO RUE •Balenciaga DE L N Guy Laroche • Kiton • A TR RUE • • Vionnet • Smalto ÉMO

By Marie&Gas Bijoux MA ILLE Wolford R Diane Von Berluti • BEUF • Furstenberg • Balmain Karl Graf • • ALMA •Courrèges Lagerfeld• MARCEAU Zadig&Voltaire • Caron• Valentino Davidor • A Thomas • V • ENUE Harry Pink Giorgio Armani MO Winston • Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello NAN E Dior UE DE MARIG Cesare Paciotti • Cucinelli R • • Joseph • Nina Ricci PSG • • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton Versace D.ROOSEVELT • Dior • Ferragamo • AVENU•E MSalvatore Akris Chanel Dior ONT• • Givenchy A Fendi • Chanel • IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Loewe•• Van Pucci • •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • Dolce&Gabbana •• Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine LT ST Dupont EVE PORT DE LA CO

HARRY WINSTON

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63 ave des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 43 59 59 59 www.arabianoud.fr

Lancel •

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On the most famous avenue in the French capital you will find the intoxicating scents of Arabian Oud. This perfume house showcases an array of perfumes with strong notes of agar wood, musk, incense and scented oils.

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48 rue Pierre Charron - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 47 20 48 48 www.rolex.com

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Enter into the world of Rolex in this boutique devoted exclusively to the brand. Operated with the house of Arije, the shop showcases a wide selection of watches ranging from the Oyster and Cellini collections. Service is a hallmark of the boutique.

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• Melodies Graphiques • Calligrane PONT MARIE

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Mi-Mai • Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE Ambali • • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay Aesol ■ The Slowear Store • • ➞ Claudie Pierlot Marionnaud Paris RUE DES Penhaligon’s FRANCS BO Musée • Chanel URGEOIS • • • •Esteban Pandora • Carhartt Carnavalet Fragonard • RU E DE • • Ted Baker ■ Repetto • • • Axes • S FRANCS BOURGEOIS •• •• ➞ Iro • Essentiel Michael • • • Femme • • Kors Uniqlo Aubade • Lancel J.M. Weston • • Eres a Ekyog •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN d a o UX • Te &S ry Bimba y Lola • •Maje• Scoth Kusmi d Per Devernois Iris Cantabri • • Alain Mikli e • r Maison Chanel • • •F Créa Concept L’Argenterie • Francis Kurkdjian Wolford • R U E D ES Cos de Turenne Lipault RO • • SIERS • • Heschung• • • • Moustaches Thomas All Saints RUE DU PLATRE Durance Cire DE JARENTE Ugg Sabo • Paule Ka RUEMasha Huygens Sandro• Trudon • K.Jacques • • • J.Crew RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE • Thierry •Carven Keja • Gucci• •John Galliano • Lacoste • •Mode en Villenave Nike Fleux RUE D'ORMESSON Givenchy Karl Demeure • Crockett • • BHV Marais • Valentino & • RUE DU ROI •DE SICILE • Le l’Homme Jones Lagerfeld Moncler • Fendi Chevignon• E • T- AN TO IN • RU E SA IN Paraboot RUE DE LA VERRERI E Psyché

Le BHV Marais

16 rue du Bourg-Tibourg - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 67 82 84 30 www.crockettandjones.com

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A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the english luxury brand for mens and ladies is committed to maintaining the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship, and custom-made service.

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• Merci • OUX Atelier Oska • UX CH Ami • NT A • • Lords&Fools U PO D Cologne French E U SAINT-SÉBASTIEN Sandro• R Tom Greyhound • Trotters • FROISSART • Maison Labiche Florian Robinson Christophe • • P O IT O U Denicourt DE E Les Bains A U D E• Lemaire U R • •-CL • Saint James Pas de Jack Gomme • A I N T APC Calais • S E Stephane U Marcel by R Wooyoungmi Verdino • Cheap • • Customellow • Monday Nice• • Louis Quatorze Eclectic • Things Vanessa Bruno •Mr • Bonastre •Fred Marzo • Les Petites • Musée • Le Mont Saint Michel National Magnanni • Picasso RU E DE S 4 • La Fée Maraboutée FI LS • Consuelo Zoelly E

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41 rue des Francs Bourgeois - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)1 44 54 18 51 www.michaelkors.com

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MICHAEL KORS Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern.

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106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

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Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.

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La Boutique Extraordinaire

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w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 51

The Guide

ARTS& ATTRACTIONS

By Patricia Valicenti

Romy Schneider and Alain Delon, Lustre 1959 © Michel Brodsky, Paris Match La Galerie de l’Instant

Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours

Take in the romance captured in photos between Romy Schneider and Alain Delon (opposite page) 52 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Romy Schneider and Alain Delon, Baiser © Philippe Le Tellier, Paris Match, La Galerie de l’Instant ; Portrait de Dalida. Robe du soir, Pierre Balmain 1973. © Bridgeman Images / United Archives / Roba Archive / Max Schweigmann

Exhibitions

Magnificent Moments Romy Schneider and Alain Delon, one of the mythical and highly charismatic couples of cinema, bring to mind beauty, glamour, and summertime visions of the French Riviera as depicted in La Piscine, The Swimming Pool, the iconic and unforgettable film they starred in together, although by that time they were no longer linked romantically. As eyes and ears turn towards the 70th Cannes Film Festival, you can get a glimpse of glamour at the Galerie de l’Instant, which is hosting an exhibition devoted to photographs of the two stars entitled Romy Schneider & Alain Delon, Les Amants Magnifiques (The Magnificent Lovers). The photographs taken by leading photographers offer an up close and personal view of the couple, having a meal in Cannes in 1962, a rare shot of them in their home in Tancrou in 1959, and the gloriously gracious shots from the set of La Piscine.

Showing all month 46 rue de Poitou (3rd), 01 44 54 94 09

A Wonderful Wardrobe Dalida, the great singer and beauty, was also a great lover of fashion. The Palais Galliera, the city’s museum devoted to fashion, is paying tribute to the star through an exhibition of her wardrobe, entitled Dalida, Une GardeRobe de la Ville à la Scène (Dalida, a Wardrobe from the City to the Stage), the object of a recent donation

by Dalida’s brother Orlando. The greatest designers dressed her both for the stage and in day-to-day life, and this exhibition brings her style to centre stage. The strapless red velvet dress by Jean Dessès that Dalida wore on stage at Bobino for a hit performance in 1958, and later at the Olympia in 1981 to celebrate her 25 years of a successful career is among the outfits on display.

The exhibition offers an astonishing array of fashion by major designers including pieces by Pierre Balmain, Loris Azzaro and Carven.

Showing all month 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01 56 52 86 00 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 53

GALERIE TAMÉNAGA IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART Exhibition TOM CHRISTOPHER May 17 - June 7

TOM CHRISTOPHER MODERN MASTERS: Cézanne, Renoir, Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Gris, Klee, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet,...

CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano,...

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 / www.tamenaga.com

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY OF THE STARS

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities.

Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s.

MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

54 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

France is home to no less than 22,000 parks and gardens of historic, botanical or scenic interest, with almost 2000 of which are classed as historic monuments. This rich heritage is being played out in an exhibition at the Galeries Nationales of the Grand Palais entitled Jardins (Gardens), which takes a look at both the history of garden art as well as the history of exhibitions on the theme. The show brings together a fine assembly of paintings, sculptures, photographs, drawings, and films demonstrating in a collage-like setting how the garden is a complete work of art stimulating all of the senses. The show focuses on experiments carried out in Europe and more specifically in France from the Renaissance to the current day concerning plants and gardens, with perceptions moving from a notion of plants as being useful to something that could be collected.

Showing all month 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17

Albrecht Durer, Akelei, watercolour, Austria, Vienna © Albertina, Vienna

Glorious Gardens

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

A MOVING JOURNEY

T

he wonderful world of cinema can be discovered right in Paris at La Cinémathèque française, home to one of the finest collections and archives in the world devoted to film. It was back in 1936 that Henri Langlois, a French film archivist, cinephile and a pioneer in film preservation, created La Cinémathèque française to save from destruction films, projection machines, costumes, posters and other cinematic treasures.

He would be given an Honorary Oscar in 1974, “for his untiring devotion to the art of film, for his massive contributions towards preserving its historical past and for his unswerving faith in its future.”

©Stéphane Dabrowski/La Cinémathèque française

Eight decades later the world of cinema that Langlois endeavoured to conserve lives on in a light-filled modern building designed by Frank O. Gehry in which the world of motion pictures is revealed through a museum, exhibitions, projections, a film library and bookshop. It offers a complete cinematic experience for film lovers and is a perfect place for neophytes to discover cinema of the world, of all ages and of all genres.

projection machines and cameras, accessories and costumes), as it does to films.

La Cinémathèque’s Musée du Cinéma exhibits some 600 objects enabling visitors to journey over three centuries into the universe of animated images. Magic Lanterns, optical boxes as well as costumes worn by, among others, Vivien Leigh and Greta Garbo, are on hand as well as a host of extraordinary objects, notably the robot from Metropolis by Fritz Lang and the head of Mrs Bates in Psycho by Alfred Hitchcock.

Temporary exhibitions devoted to major figures in film are regularly presented as well showcasing the links that cinema maintains with the other arts and the shows have honoured, among others, Tim Burton, François Truffaut, Jacques Tati, Stanley Kubrick and Martin Scorsese. The current show, running through to July 31st, is dedicated to the American filmmaker Gus Van Sant who is honoured for his movies

like Elephant, Good Will Hunting, Milk, as well as his paintings, photographs, music and artistic collaborations.

Some 40 films are projected each week at La Cinémathèque française in the establishment’s four movie theatres with programmes revolving around major directors, actors and technicians but also the young generation of filmmakers.

A host of activities including conferences and master classes are also organised around the projection programmes. There is also an excellent restaurant serving homemade dishes using seasonal products.

The current temporary exhibition, entitled Mômes & Cie, meaning Kids & Company, explores how children and childhood are portrayed in cinema. The show runs through to July 30th.

51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01 71 19 33 33 www.cinematheque.fr

Visitors enter the Gehry building, which is built around a monumental hall that is thoroughly drenched by incoming light and outfitted with large bay windows and small balconies, and within will discover collections where over 40,000 films, 3000 costumes, 23,000 posters, 14,000 drawings and 2,300 objects are conserved. For conservation, restoration and enrichment are the missions of La Cinémathèque française, which lends as much importance to non-film objects (archives, books, w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 55

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

On Nature

Showing all month 62 rue des Archives (3rd), 01 53 01 92 40

Perusing Picasso The exhibition space at the Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport is hosting a show devoted to Pablo Picasso, entitled Picasso. The Sunlit Years. The show brings together 35 original works reflecting the artist’s relationship to the French Riviera where he lived after World War II discovering the region’s sun and its mythological lore.

The exhibition, which was conceived by the Musée National Picasso-Paris, aims to restore the deep and happy connection that Picasso finds between his region of adoption and the ancient world of the Mediterranean.

Picasso made regular stays to the French Riviera from the 1920s onwards, setting up his studio in the fall of 1946 in the castle museum of Antibes. He moved to Vallauris in May of 1948, close to potters practicing the ancient art of ceramics. Images of Bacchanalia and the Golden Age, which emanates from Greek mythology and legend, would grace his works underscoring the history and mythology of the Mediterranean coast.

Showing all month Espace Musées, Terminal 2E Hall M, Aéroport Paris-Charles de Gaulle 56 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Marlène Mocquet, Candide connaissance, 2013, Grès et porcelaine émaillés de Sèvres, émail or © Yann BohacCollection privée. Picasso, Plein Soleil Exhibition © Courtesy Olivia Brooks

An enchanted world of fruits, flowers and beings with fanciful forms is unfolding at the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, a unique museum devoted to nature and hunting nestled in the Marais. The show, entitled En Plein Coeur (Right at the Heart), brings together the fanciful ceramic works and paintings by French artist Marlène Mocquet. The 28 sculptures made for the most part at the Manufacture Nationale de Sèvres (France’s national porcelain and ceramic manufacture) and 27 paintings are interspersed within the museum’s permanent collections.

The flora and fauna that emerge from the artist’s imagination and art and craftsmanship offer a rich, colourful and aesthetic visual experience. A guided visit animated by the artist is slated to be held on May 4th at 8pm. Meanwhile, the museum is also hosting a show entitled Unleashed, juxtaposing the works of photographer Roger Ballen with the drawings of Hans Lemmen, evoking the world of animals.

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Exhibitions

Eduard Steinberg, Sans titre, 1962, huile sur toile, courtesy Galerie Le Minotaure

A Galaxy of Galleries Some 70 galleries in the Saint-Germain neighbourhood are opening up their doors for Art Saint-Germain-des-Prés this month showcasing exceptional objects and pieces and putting on special exhibitions for this art show that has been held in this gallery-laden neighbourhood for over 20 years.

Diverse mediums are all on the agenda ranging from figurative painting to sculpture, arts from faraway lands, photography and drawings. The Galerie Claude Bernard, the Galerie Alain Le Gaillard and the Galerie Le Minotaure will be presenting collectively the works of Eduard Steinberg, the 20th century Russian artist while the Galerie Claudine Legrand will be bringing out for the event a painting by the leading contemporary artist Philippe Vasseur.

Meanwhile, the Galerie Pièce Unique in its two exhibition venues is presenting the intriguing sculptures of Laure Boulay in a show entitled Brave New World and Variations.

From May 18 through to June 3 Maps and information are available at the Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Prés 3 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th)

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments

The Sacré-Coeur de Montmartre

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am -10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free.. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before

58 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

closing. Entry fee (7-17€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr 1-Sep 30: 10am-5:45pm; Oct 1-Mar 31: 10am-4:45pm.

10€. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10 M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER-OPÉRA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English

daily at 11:00am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05.

Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

SACRÉ COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking.

There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

SAINTE-CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time, times may vary. 10€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26.

2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

Sacré-Coeur Cathedral photo © iStock 2017 © Nightman1965

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

Your cruise, Made in Paris.

Vedettes de Paris welcome you every day of the year, at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, for the most beautiful cruise of Paris... Make your tour unforgettable with a glass of champagne !

C RO I S I Ăˆ R ES - C R U I S ES

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with this barcode Where Paris* * To be presented at the cashier. From 01/05/17 to 30/06/2017. Limited to 4 people, only for adults tickets. Available for Sightseeing cruise, +Champagne, +Gourmand & +Snack

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Address Book

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ART GALLERIES Galerie Bartoux Elysées A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen.

01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble

by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.

18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Opera Gallery Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

ATTRACTIONS Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua) Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing.

5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Canal Saint-Martin This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Flight Experience | Attractions 60 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Flight Experience Paris

You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04.

M° Quai de la Gare

France Miniature

This fun and educational park presents all of the major sites and monuments of France in miniature.

The six major regions of France are covered with some 117 monuments and 2,000 scale models on view in spacious settings. Attractions, educational tools and a restaurant offering regional specialties round out the agenda. Blvd André Malraux, 78990 Elancourt, 01.30.16.16.30. Take the A13 highway direction Versailles/Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines then the A12 direction Dreux, exit at Elancourt

La Mer de Sable

Located in an exceptional natural setting, this adventure-filled park offers a fine day out for the whole family with 30 attractions and a host of fun activities. There are four major shows including two featuring horses, encounters with animals, themed restaurants and the park is less than an hour from Paris. 60950 Ermenonville, 03.44.54.00.96.

From Paris take the North Autoroute A1, direction Ermenonville then take exit 7

Les Étoiles du Rex

Travel to the heart of cinema. A unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest

movie theatre in Europe. Fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family. WedSun 10am-7pm including bank holidays and everyday during French school holidays. 1 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.58. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Manoir de Paris The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm.

18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Asterix This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park.

Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).

Paris Story A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin

Parc Zoologique de Paris This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25.

M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Pavillons de Bercy Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

Aquarium Sea Life Plunge into the intriguing world of cephalopods at this educational display featuring several species of octopus. The giant Pacific octopus, the nautilus and the Wonderpus will join the 5000 creatures that are already housed at the aquarium.

France Miniature | Attractions

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

Centre Commercial Val d’Europe, 14 Cours du Danube, 77711 Marne-la-Vallée, 01.60.42.33.66, RER A to Val d’Europe station, 10 min by foot

BOAT CRUISES Bateaux Parisiens

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm).

Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm.

For dinner cruises please see the Dining section.

Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm.

08.25.05.01.01

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart.

Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet.

84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Chartres

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

The town of Chartres is known for its splendid cathedral with magnificent stained glass windows. You can also visit the Centre International du Vitrail, a workshop and museum devoted to stained glass which is unique in Europe. SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr); last return train to Paris about 9pm.

Château de Fontainebleau A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Château de Versailles

Jardin d’Acclimatation

A traditional French children’s park in the scenic Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions, pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy, restaurants and picnic grounds. Daily 10am-6pm.

Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.40.67.90.85. M° Les Sablons

Jardin des Tuileries

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

Jardin du Luxembourg

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection.

Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

DAY TRIPS

Giverny

The French countryside and the village where Van Gogh spent the last months of his life are

GARDENS

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures

by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions as well as nightly gourmet dinner cruises. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

Auvers sur Oise

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris.

Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Yachts de Paris

Bateaux-Mouches ©iStock

just 27 km from Paris. In town you can visit a 17th century chateau and the Maison Van Gogh (open Mar through Oct). SNCF from Gare du Nord to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-sur-Oise (about 1 hr 15 min)

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened

Mer de Sable | Attractions

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

GUIDED TOURS 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie

These innovative concept tours are conducted on board the mythical 2CV car. Tours throughout Paris and the surroundings are available as well as thematic visits for children, or for romance for example. Customised visits and services may be organised as well. 06.67.32.26.68.

Bustronome

This original tour combines fine food with sightseeing. During the lunch or dinner tour you

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book

L’Open Tour Paris Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Mon Beau Paris

This company offers unique sightseeing experiences and travel services for visitors who are made to feel like guests. Classic guided tours, personalised private tours, expert private, licensed guides and vacation packages are available. 06.50.69.66.91

My STS

Luxury and custom-made excursions are the hallmarks of this company whose drivers are licensed guides. Tours are available in English with expert commentary on history, the arts and antiques and the guides can also take visitors into museums and monuments. 01.74.54.50.08. www.mysts.fr

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. Enjoy Paris by day or night, champagne in Montmartre, historic landmarks, luxurious places, secret neighbourhoods, tailor-made tours. 06.64.50.44.19

left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Espace Dali In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm.

261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Fondation Louis Vuitton This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation.

Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Institut du Monde Arabe

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts.

Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm.

1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38.

M° Jussieu

Retro Tour

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

Paris City Vision

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com

MUSEUMS & FONDATIONS Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée d’Orsay

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de ParisLe Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de l’Orangerie

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm.

Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

Mona Bismarck American Center

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm,

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine | Museums & Fondations 62 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that

Musée d’Orsay | Museums & Fondations

Musée d’Orsay ©Sophie Boegly

can see the city’s major sites and monuments from the double decker bus with a panoramic glass roof while enjoying a complete meal revolving around seasonal products. 2 ave Kléber (16th), 09.54.44.45.55. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS

Address Book

boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39.

M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm.

107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée du Louvre

Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15pm), late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm.

79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Musée du Vin

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Palais Galliera

Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum.

Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau

Musée Grévin

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie.

Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm.

Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05.

M° Grands Boulevards

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

Musée Guimet

Monnaie de Paris

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée Jacquemart-André

The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities.

Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Musée Picasso

Musée Marmottan Monet

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 9 rue Scribe (9th), 01.47.42.04.56. M° Opéra

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel.

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia,

Musée Rodin ©Hervé Abbadie

Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Rodin

Musée des Arts et Métiers | Museums & Fondations

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm.

11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Palais de Tokyo

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century.

Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm.

Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00.

M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets.

Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm.

Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

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The Guide

DINING

Dine al fresco at La Cour Jardin (opposite page)

64 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Photo © Jacques P+®pion

Al Fresco Dining | Japanese Cuisine | Fine Dining | Healthy Fare

DINING

Restaurants

Al Fresco Dining Spring is in the air and that means one of our favourite seasonal restaurants is reopening. The 10th of this month will mark the reopening La Cour Jardin, the Plaza Athénée Hotel’s patio restaurant, which opens for the warmer months only. Nestled in the heart of the hotel, the patio is a magical place, with its hanging garden and open-air breeze. One of the most iconic Parisian restaurants, La Cour Jardin is perfect for a sophisticated lunch after shopping along Avenue Montaigne or for a romantic dinner for two. This year chef Mathieu Emeraud has put together the perfect summer menu with dishes including a cream of green pea soup garnished with an almond royale, and grilled sea bass served with a Mediterranean medley of zucchini and olives, while pastry chef Angelo Musa has created a menu with fruit-based options that will change throughout the season, bringing diners a sweet yet bikini-friendly treats to end a perfect meal with. - S.I. La Cour Jardin Plaza Athénée Hotel 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 53 67 66 02

La Cour Jardin © Niall Clutton

Sushi for One The French stock exchange no longer occupies the elegant pillared limestone 19th century Palais Brongniart in the heart of Paris, but an influx of web start-ups are giving life to this quartier, which explains why it’s suddenly filled with new restaurants. One of the best is the excellent Yoko Bourse from the city’s stylish Black Code group. It’s just the place you want to go to for a good uncomplicated meal of beautifully made sushi and perfectly prepared tempura, among other offers, at the end of a busy day of sightseeing, in meetings, or shopping. It’s also an ideal address for anyone dining solo who wants some place quiet and accommodating of people on their own. The handsome dining room with brass-and-milk glass sconces, oak tables and a black-granite counter from which you watch the sushi masters is well-lit and service is prompt and charming.

– Alexander Lobrano Yoko Bourse 3 rue de la Bourse (2nd), 01 85 73 41 29 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 65

DINING

Restaurants

Fine Dining Near the Arc Many travellers to Paris know that the city’s gastronomic axis has shifted to eastern districts like the 11th, 12th, and 19th arrondissements where low rents make it easy for young chefs to set up shop. But where do you go if you want to sample some of the best of the new creative contemporary French cooking in Paris without travelling across town? That’s easy. Restaurant Alan Geaam, which just opened near the Arc de Triomphe. For those who don’t know, Geaam, a charming man who was born in Liberia to Lebanese parents before living in the Czech Republic, the U.S., and Italy, arrived in Paris twenty years ago with no French and a pittance in his pockets. Today, due to what he calls “the French Dream,” he’s the proprietor of L’Auberge Nicolas Flamel, the oldest restaurant in the city, AG Saint-Germain, AG Les Halles, and his latest, Restaurant Alain Geaam.

Hard-working Geaam explains that the point of his new table is to allow him to do food that’s more gastronomically ambitious than in his other very good restaurants. The two tasting menus change often, but a recent seven-course tasting menu began with a wonderfully classic dish of asparagus, morels and breaded deep-fried quail’s egg with Hollandaise sauce, and continued with a langoustine ravioli with garnishes of Nori seaweed and a langoustine-head sauce seasoned with Vietnamese cardamom. Then monkfish seasoned with vadouvan (a French curry blend that includes curry leaves, mustard seeds, fenugreek and other spices) to give the monkfish some character was served before pigeon roasted with pomegranate molasses, a common Middle Eastern condiment, and then an assortment of perfectly aged cheeses from Bernard Antony, the celebrated Alsatian cheesemonger, with date chutney. Given the quality of the cooking and the service here, even if it’s not cheap, this is one of the best-value addresses in Paris right now. – A.L. Restaurant Alan Geaam 19 rue Lauriston (16th), 01 45 01 72 97

Many visitors to Paris feel a little guilty after they’ve been in town for a couple of days and find themselves wanting something other than French food. To this quandary, I say, No worries! Paris increasingly has foreign tables that are as worthy of your attention as its storied bistros and brasseries of yore. A great example of how cosmopolitan the city’s become when it sits down to eat is Tavline, an excellent casual little Israeli restaurant in the Marais. Tavline means herb in Hebrew, and once you’ve tasted Israeli-Moroccan chef Kobi Villot Malka’s cooking, you’ll know where the inspiration for this moniker came from. Malka, who cooked in various Alain Ducasse restaurants after completing his diploma at Le Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris, approaches flavour-rich Israeli cooking with French technique.

The menu evolves regularly, but don’t miss the excellent Assiette Degustation, a tasting plate of roasted beets with labnah, roasted cauliflower with a tangy pesto sauce and a vinaigrette of tomato pulp, charred eggplant with a coulis of tomatoes and pimentos, and roasted sweet potatoes with tahina. Main courses run to dishes like shakshuka, or eggs coddled in a rich stew of tomatoes and peppers, and memoulaim, or onions stuffed with lamb on a bed of barley in a ruddy sauce of roasted lamb juice brightened by sumac and pomegranate molasses. Unsurprisingly, this very reasonably priced new spot has become very popular, so make sure you book. – A.L. Tavline 25 rue du Roi de Sicile (4th), 09 86 55 65 65 66 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Tavline © Romain Villot

Oriental Flavours

DINING

Pastries

Millefeuille Photo © Laurent Fau

5-Star Pastries Pastry chef Yann Couvreur made his sweet mark on the pastry world when he worked at the Prince de Galles hotel as the hotel’s pastry chef but now Yann has left the hotel business behind and has opened up his own pastry shop. Situated in the up-and-coming 10th arrondissement of the city, the pastry shop offers freshly baked scrolls, perfect layers of buttery pastry enrobing dark chocolate and pistachios, and fluffy and sweet brioche to perfectly accompany your morning or afternoon cup of coffee. The talents of the chef who seduced 5-star hotel patrons is further showcased here with a window of cakes that will leave anyone with a sweet tooth salivating, however, if a choice needs to be made, it is the chef’s famous Millefeuille. The signature dessert is made in front of your eyes with the layers of the delicate pastry mounted carefully with vanilla cream.

The Millefeuille is limited to only 50 a day and is sold on the condition that it is to be devoured immediately with the chef unwilling to compromise the flaky and golden pastry becoming moist from the vanilla if it is taken away and eaten later. With such a condition you really do not need an excuse to not bite into it immediately. - S.I. Yann Couvreur 137 ave Parmentier (10th), 06 05 97 63 01

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DINING

Restaurants

Deliciously Affordable When it comes to gastronomy, the French have a huge talent for recognising the virtues of simplicity. To wit, if you work with really good spectacular produce, it would be a shame to disguise the natural goodness of its flavours. This is the idea behind L’Atelier Carnem, which has become a standout address for good eating in a part of the Latin Quarter popular with students and tourists since it opened a few months ago. The menu features a selection of some of the world’s best beef, including sirloins steaks from Galicia (Rubia de Galicia), Australia (Riverine), New Zealand (All Black), Uruguay and several other countries, which are served with frites, salad or a mix of organic vegetables. The restaurant is the brainchild of Alexandre Pucci, who owns a neighbouring wine bar, and Luc Garnier, proprietor of the organic crepe restaurant Alizee next door, and their idea was to improve the local restaurant offering by offering exceptional quality at great prices in a handsome setting with exposed stone walls and a convivial atmosphere. They’ve succeeded beautifully, and if you’re wondering which of the special breeds of beef is the standout, I’ll give you a hint: Australia. Open daily, for lunch and dinner. – A.L. L’Atelier Carnem 5 rue du Pot de Fer (5th), 01 72 34 56 94

Occupying sleek premises with mocha leather banquettes and copper suspension lamps just off the lobby of the new Maison Albar Hotel in the Les Halles district of Paris, Odette is the latest restaurant of Caroline and Sophie Rostang, the talented daughters of chef Michel Rostang (the sisters are the 6th generation of their family to be in the restaurant business). “We wanted to create some conviviality here,” says Caroline Rostang, explaining why the menu has many dishes that are meant to be shared, including an excellent veal chop for two and sea bass cooked in pastry. The Rostangs have succeeded, too, since this new table is not only popular with hotel guests, but a growing crowd of regulars who live in the surrounding neighbourhood. It’s these stylish young Parisians, in fact, who give the place its atmosphere, and they love dishes like carrots roasted with bergamot and crushed hazelnuts, burrata with mustard greens and oregano, foie gras en brioche with date chutney and marinated salmon with quinoa and cranberries in a citrus sauce. Cheeses come from one of the best fromagers in Paris, Martine Dubois, and desserts are inventive and alluring, too, including coffee crème brûlée with banana mousse and caramelised apples with shiso sorbet. – A.L. Odette 25 rue Pont Neuf (1st), 01 44 88 92 78 68 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Carnem ® Mariaspera Carnem ; Odette © Lisa Klein Michel

Contemporary Odette

DINING

Restaurants

Eat well and healthy

By Sandra Iskander

With the promise of warmer days comes the urge to eat clean, and while it isn’t always easy to do in the culinary capital where butter is a key ingredient in pretty much every dish we have managed to find a few establishments where you will find healthy options and still feel satisfied after your meal.

For vegetarians, vegans and anyone preferring to eat organic and gluten-free, Paris isn’t always easy, however, the good news is Parisians are slowly embracing a healthier lifestyle and Wild & The Moon, which first opened up in Dubai, has come to the City of Light. Focusing on offering customers delicious dishes without nasty additives, Wild & The Moon serves up organic cold-pressed juices, salads and sandwiches all made using local and ethically sourced ingredients. Perfect for breakfast, lunch or something to eat on the run, the menu includes buckwheat granola with dried fruit and seeds and served with almond milk, La Sicilia, a ready-toeat quinoa salad with olives capers and pine nuts, and a focaccia sandwich made with seasonal vegetables and vegan mayonnaise.

Everything here is gluten, dairy and refined sugar free.

Wild & The Moon 55 rue Charlot (3rd), 01 86 95 40 46

Another great address for gluten-free and vegan visitors is Juice It. This healthy take-away juice bar offers coldpressed juices as well as ready-made salads. Juice It also prepares two hot dishes every day that change on a regular basis but could include a spicy lentil dhal.

Everything here is organic, vegan and gluten-free bar a daily quiche made especially for the yet to be converted Parisians. Visitors with a sweet tooth should not miss the Bliss Balls, which are, for a lack of a better word, just bliss for when you’re craving something sweet. Made with coconut, honey, dates and vanilla, they are a vegan’s equivalent to rum balls.

Juice It 32 rue Jean Mermoz (8th), 01 72 38 24 24

While some health food eateries don’t offer a well-todo décor, Juvia proves that you can eat green without compromising creature comforts like a contemporary décor to appease the eyes. It’s easy to stay on the right path to clean eating here with the house’s Détox salad, which mixes quinoa, crabmeat, lettuce and juicy Granny Smith apples, making it low in calories and gluten-free.

Juvia 105 rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 09 66 82 41 08 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 69

DINING

Restaurant Advertorial

RATN Indian-Moghol gastronomy / Paris 8th Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in Indian Moghol Gastronomy of the 17th century and immortalises the beautiful north Indian culinary traditions. RATN invites you to discover the finest specialties in tandoori and curries.

Recommended by Michelin, Gault Millau, Pudlo, Bottin.

9 rue de la Tremoille, Paris 8th Metro: George V Tel: +33 (0)1 40 70 01 09 www.restaurantratn.com

LA TRUFFIÈRE Cuisine d’Auteur / Paris 5th Chef Christophe Poard offers up a creative and modern cuisine based on the seasons of the various kinds of truffles. There is a wine list with some 4,200 offerings and which has received the Best of Award of Excellence from the Wine Spectator. Come and discover the ABCs of Wine boutique featuring the table arts and a wine cellar. Lunch from 40€, Dinner from 65€/ 95€ on Saturdays 4 rue de Blainville - Paris 5th Mº Place Monge (line 7) or RER B: Luxembourg Tel: +33 (0)1 46 33 29 82 www.latruffiere.com

LE CINQ CODET Classic French / Paris 7th In the heart of the 7th arrondissement, a stone’s throw away from the Invalides, this intimate address is perfect for a business lunch or a dinner with friends. Using seasonal products, chef Ricardo Lucio serves a delicious and creative menu that frequently changes.

The restaurant boasts a patio, tranquil and serene, where diners can lunch or dine or just enjoy signature cocktails with tapas or platters of Pierre Oteiza charcuterie and Griffon cheese.

Every Saturday night the restaurant hosts jazz night.

Set menus from 27€ A la carte from 14€ 5 rue Louis Codet, Paris 7th Metro: Ècole Militaire Tel. +33 (0)1 53 85 15 60 www.le5codet.com

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ADVERTORIAL

CHACHA CLUB Classic French / Paris 1st The Chacha Club, it’s two venues in one, a trendy club located right in the heart of Paris just footsteps from the Louvre. A restaurant where pianists and singers doing soul and jazz accompany you during dinner for a pleasant moment. Both sophisticated and gastronomic, the menu showcases contemporary French cuisine with gourmet dishes that have been given a new twist. In nice weather, our restaurant offers a beautiful sunny terrace looking out over the gardens of the Chamber of Commerce.

In our club you can savour delicious cocktails and dance until dawn. The trendy club is a celebrated Parisian venue, the quintessence of a spot frequented by a posh clientele in a highly festive, muted and nonchalant atmosphere. The Chacha Club has always been popular with Parisians.

Celebrities and hip DJs from all over the world constantly come by to hit the dance floor until the early hours of the morning. It is an establishment with an atypical décor, strongly influenced by the 1930s with plenty of hidden corners and nooks propitious to an escape for an evening or all night. The spot, spread out over two floors can be custom-adjusted and can be totally or partially privatised during the day or at night.

The musical programme is varied and specialised during the week and geared for a general public over the weekend. And the club offers a wide variety of entertainment throughout the week with live shows on Thursdays, magicians on weekends, events revolving around fashion and photography and on Wednesdays the not to be missed after work sessions. At the Chacha club everything comes together for the magic to endure. From Wednesday to Saturday from 8pm to 6am.

47 rue Berger, Paris 1st (M° Louvre Rivoli) Tel. +33 (0)1 40 13 12 12 chacha@chachaclub.fr

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DINING

Restaurant Advertorial

LE BISTROT DU LOUCHÉBEM

LE LOUCHÉBEM

Traditional French cuisine

Traditional French cuisine

47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 04 10 4Unlimited carpaccio: 25.90€ 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr

431 rue Berger, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 12 99 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr

Succulent meats from the butcher are to be savoured here. Inventive, refined appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured Camembert are worth the detour.

The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm.

This quintessential les Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes.

The pot roast salad is superb and the unique all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham and leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.

WEPLER

TRUFFES FOLIES

Traditional French cuisine

Fine cuisine with truffles

414 Place de Clichy, Paris 18th / Metro: Place de Clichy 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 22 53 24 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Lunch & Dinner menu 30€ 4Set-menu 24.50€ 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com

A full menu for all your lunches and dinners: one of the finest French Onion soups in the capital, seafood plates or traditional house dishes as Fish from the market or Andouillette AAAAA , our restaurant has something for everyone .

437 rue Malar, Paris 7th / Tel: +33 (0)1 44 18 05 41 4Metro: Latour Maubourg/ Pont de l’Alma 4Lunch: 12pm to 3pm (except Sunday) 4Dinner: 6:30pm to 9:30pm (except Saturday/Sunday) 4www.truffesfolies.fr

Located near the Invalides, the restaurant Truffes Folies welcomes you in an elegant, warm and intimate setting. You will savour a selection of truffle-based dishes (risotto, tagliatelle, foie gras, salads) and regional products. We have carefully selected for you the finest of gourmet products, a large assortment of truffles (black and white) and exceptional foie gras.

SIGHTSEEING CRUISES LUNCH & DINNER CRUISES Discover the spirit of Paris from the River Seine…

Located at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, Bateaux Parisiens provides every day an intense and tasty journey along the most beautiful of Parisian boulevards. Embark aboard its entirely glassed-over boats for a unique cultural and gastronomic experience. www.bateauxparisiens.com • +33 (0)1 76 64 14 45 a

company

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Address Book

DINING

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

AROUND LOUVRE & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - CambodianVietnamese-Laotian (€€)

A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town.

Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde

Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04.

M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted freerange chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy.

The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast).

There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Chacha Club - Classic French

(€€)

This restaurant offers up a great atmosphere that includes an outdoor terrace with a smart view in good weather. Starters include raviolis of Royan in a creamy broth or foie gras with homemade apricot jam while for a main course sample the tagliatelle with smoked salmon or lamb chops with mashed potatoes. There is a cheese board and a host of delectable desserts. Wed-Sun D. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01.40.13.12.12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef JeanFrançois Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Goust - Gourmet (€€€)

Located on the 1st floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterranean-style cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01.40.15.20.30. M° Opéra

Kinugawa - Japanese (€€€)

Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries

La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary

(€€€)

Two minutes away from the magnificent opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat crepes. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais

Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Bistrot de Louchébem - Classic French (€)

Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the housemade foie gras or the warm goat cheese salad.

Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L & D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Louchébem - Bistro (€)

Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20.

M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)

Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal | Contemporary (1st) 74 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2016

Aux Lyonnais | Bistro (2nd)

DINING

Address Book

lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

La Tour de Montlhéry -Chez Denise - Bistro (€€)

This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am.

5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles

Lavinia - Classic French (€€)

Nicely prepared traditional French food is on the agenda in this casually elegant eatery. Homemade foie gras with lemon chutney is a nice starter and the main courses include a fish and a dish of the day. The restaurant is attached to the Lavinia wine cellar and you can choose from 100 prestigious wines by the glass and from all of the wines carried by the house, some 6,000, by the bottle to accompany your meal. Mon-Sat noon-10pm. 3 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01.42.97.20.27. M° Madeleine

QUARTIER LATIN & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th)

well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s

by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite.

Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31.

Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00.

Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Taokan - Chinese (€€€)

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas.

Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11.

Mº Sèvres Babylone

Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° Saint-Sulpice

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha.

Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

LE MARAIS (3 , 4 ) rd

th

Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry.

Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45.

Mº Saint-Paul

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest.

Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine.

Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER & LES INVALIDES (7th) 58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)

Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Lavinia | Classic French (1st)

Lapérouse | Gourmet (6th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 75

DINING

Address Book (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire

Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star.

Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

L’Ami Jean - Classic French (€€€)

Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm.

5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Le Restaurant du Cinq Codet - Classic French (€€) Enjoy savoury and authentic cuisine in a warm atmosphere in this restaurant serving classic French cuisine. The menu revolves around the seasons and includes homemade desserts. A snack menu is served everyday throughout the day. MonSat L& D, Sun, L only, snack menu in the evening.

5 rue Louis Codet (7th), 01.53.85.15.60. M° Ecole Militaire

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli.

Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00.

Mº Alma-Marceau

AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space.

7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary

(€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Mon-Fri L&D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18.

Mº George V

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine.

Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region.

Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons.

Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99.

Mº Alma Marceau

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Adrien Trouilloud serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Mon-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L only.

17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

La Table du Lancaster - Gourmet

(€€€€)

This delightful one-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms.

Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)

The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

Epicure | Gourmet (8th) 76 W HE RE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2016

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau

Le Safran | Gourmet (8th)

DINING

Address Book a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips.

Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards

Café Pouchkine - Café (€)

This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin

Le Lumière - Gourmet

(€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary

(€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

Wepler - Brasserie (€)

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

L’Auberge Dab - Classic French (€€€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff.

Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot

AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th)

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood

(€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th)

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

Blue Elephant - Thai (€€€)

Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille

East Mamma - Italian (€)

This welcoming restaurant serves up authentic and seasonal Italian food in an inviting atmosphere with an open kitchen. The pizzas are baked in a wood fire oven and the homemade pasta dishes can be ordered for one or for four and are served in individual copper pans. Daily L&D. 133 rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine (11th), 01.43.41.32.15. M° Ledru-Rollin

Le Train Bleu - Classic French

(€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91.

Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

Jamin - Classic French (€€)

The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Monsieur Bleu - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower.

Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS Le Kavéri – Indian (€€)

This restaurant, recommended by Gault&Millau, serves refined dishes from the repertoire of Indian gastronomy. Starters include chicken tikka and vegetable samosas while butter chicken, tandoori masala quail or shrimp with eggplant are among the many main courses. Daily, L&D. 3-5 quai Aulagnier, Asnières-sur-Seine, 01.40.86.10.11. M° Gabriel Péri

Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the SaintOuen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb.

Desserts include fun selections like floating island and baba au rum. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Le Bar à Huîtres | Seafood (14th)

Shang Palace | Chinese (16th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 77

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Celebrate cocktail hour at Da Nico (page 80)

78 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Da Nico © Benoit Linero

Shows | Bars | Nightclubs | Cabarets | Gentlemen’s Clubs | Wine Bars

ENTERTAINMENT

Shows

Field of Romance Everything in France spells romance and nothing says romantic more than enjoying a horse-drawn carriage and being serenaded by an opera singer. A Cheval Chez Les Princes is specialised in putting together bespoke experiences in and around the sprawling grounds of the Chantilly forest, making your visit to the famous chateau unforgettable. You can choose to wander through the lush forest or even organise for a picnic to be laid out in a clearing in the forest to be savoured tête-à-tête.

A cheval chez les princes © Clémence Faivre; Les Jardins du Marais © Mateja Lux

To reserve visit www.achevalchezlesprinces.fr or call 03 44 21 24 40.

At the Movies If you couldn’t make it down to Cannes for the film festival do not fret, the French capital’s Les Jardins du Marais hotel has inaugurated its very own movie theatre so you can now host your very own screening. Decked out with double armchairs, the theatre, which accommodates up to 8 people, is the perfect rendezvous for movie-lovers who enjoy nothing more than settling in for a couple of hours in front of their favourite movie. The theatre can be privatised and you can choose the movie you want to watch from its movie library, and with popcorn, soft drinks and ice-cream served, you and your guests will feel like movie stars.

Les Jardins du Marais 74 rue Amelot (11th), 01 40 21 20 00 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 79

ENTERTAINMENT Cocktail Bars

Big Love Cocktails The 10th arrondissement is fast becoming the fashion world’s go-to for the coolest bars and true to form for fashionable addresses most of these places are so off-the-beaten track that unless you know where to find them you will be none the wiser. One of said hottest addresses is the Hôtel Grand Amour where designers, fashion editors and artists have made it their cocktail rendezvous during Paris Fashion Week.

The bar/restaurant is not only great for people watching but it also boasts a cocktail menu with plenty of original drinks to choose from including the Rosemary Gin made with gin, lemon juice, rosemary syrup for an original herby twist, and cucumber. The best seat in the house is in the patio with fairy lights twinkling above your heads.

Hôtel Grand Amour 18 rue de la Fidélité (10th), 01 44 16 03 30

Our favourite bar at the moment is Da Nico, and it is not because it is found at one of our favourite restaurants, it is because this speakeasy bar offers patrons quite the original cocktail menu thanks to the talents of mixologist Nico de Soto, who updates his offerings on a regular basis. The bar is hidden behind the lush velvety curtains at the back of Daroco, the Italian restaurant that was formerly Jean Paul Gaultier’s boutique. Once you make yourself through the restaurant and push the curtains to the side you will walk into the contemporary bar, both in décor and its cocktail offerings. Travelling the world and staying ahead of cocktail trends has given Nico the unique talent of making drinks with interesting ingredients, and the result is a menu that includes cocktails with fun names and surprising mixes such as the Vodka Not Too Sweet made with vodka, green tea, kale, lemon juice and quinoa. The bar is open daily from 6pm to 2am and is perfect for drinks before or after dinner.

Da Nico 6 rue Vivienne (2nd), 01 42 21 93 71 80 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Da Nico © Benoit Linero

Creative Cocktails

ENTERTAINMENT Nightclubs

Salo © Tom de Peyret

Art in Da Club Where Social Club once was, one of the city’s most loved clubs, is where Salò now resides, the French capital’s address where free expression and artsy movements are celebrated. Every week a new artist is invited to make the space his or her own by changing the vibe of the space using visual and of course audio effects, recent guests included fashion designer Julien Dossena and French writer and director Christophe Honoré.

Installations and videos are used to animate the concert or the performance before a guest or one of the resident DJs takes over taking the crowd into the wee hours of the morning.

Salò 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06 16 85 11 10 ADVERTORIAL

As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light.

Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return

to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian.

Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hard-hitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab?

Putting together a one man show, How to become Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up

comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light.

Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves.

It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor.

Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more.

This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH Théâtre des Nouveautés (theater with air conditioning) 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards

Tickets at www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Not recommended for kids under 16 years old

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Cabarets

Lido

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity .

Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin.

The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears.

Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes.

Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

82 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

Lido de Paris © Pascaline Labarrere

LIDO

© Pauline NICOLAS -

© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2017- Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE !

DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 175 € REVUE À 21H ET À 23H À PARTIR DE 77 €

MONTMARTRE

82, BLD DE CLICHY - 75018 PARIS TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82

THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD!

DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM €175 SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

WWW.MOULIN-ROUGE.COM FACEBOOK.COM/LEMOULINROUGEOFFICIEL

Address Book

ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha Bar

on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78.

M° Boissière

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar.

The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

Hotel Costes Bar

The Ballroom

Hotel Providence

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas.

58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65.

M° Les Halles

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am.

25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00.

M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12.

M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49.

M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all

Buddha Bar | Bars & Wine Bars (8th) 84 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Le Bristol Bar

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical.

Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière.

46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you

can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Moonshiner

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

Ô Chateau

You can taste over 40 different wines by the glass in this fun wine bar, which has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.

Vintage Bordeaux, Château d’Yquem and fine champagnes are among the offerings. 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01.44.73.97.80.

M° Louvre-Rivoli

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila.

23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ice Kube

Chill out and sip 3 Finlandia cocktails and one shot at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting.

Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle

Wine by One

Enjoy a total unique wine experience in this lovely space next to the Champs-Elysées proposing 100 different wines by the glass. This atmospheric and eclectic bar has wines from all over the world that you can taste by the glass (at any time with your WINEcard), and also purchase bottles to take away.

Mon-Sat noon-11pm. 27 rue de Marignan (8th), 01.45.63.18.98. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

CASINO Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

Experimental Cocktail Bar | Bars & Wine Bars (2nd)

ENTERTAINMENT Address Book

JAZZ CLUBS Café Universel

Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal

Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V

NIGHT CLUBS

Raspoutine

L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe.

The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges.

Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 01.53.57.40.82. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

La Fidelité

This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS

Palais Maillot

Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night.

Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers

Duc des Lombards ©Philippe Marchin

performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

Le Social Club

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Queen Club

This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies

Duc des Lombards | Jazz Clubs (1st)

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté.

58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am.

5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

MAGICAL AND OPERA SHOWS Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

Jazz Club Etoile

| Jazz Clubs (17th)

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A I D Châtelet A AN VE DE EL CS RUE AM É G IS Île LA PLACE VIC R. d M DE VE SER DAUPHINE TO Hôtel de DE QUA e l a C RR VOI Car RIA IE C S I i E t L l'Institut E R D é O ' HOR RO DE E IE QU Ville NT A ER R. R. DES de France Varenne LOG S A Champ V D I AV D IE SIT E DE T E B X. AR RO U U BO RS R. Monnaie de Mars ARS I T R. E É S IM O L M L Rue AV GA .

G D E R Hôtel B E S U ESV PD de Paris AUD Tour GR UR RUE Conciergerie EN du Bac AV de Ville IC I Q CH A M RE EN Eiffel ÉG QU VI SC O N T I LE R. Ste-Chapelle SQ D O R. DU PI EL ÉN E N UE AI GE RUE R RUE DE GU UAI LE R IV JA PER UE FR. R. RM NN UE L DE OLI RON MIRON CO R . JE A N J. Cité A C O Champ QU L'HÔ .

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V Q S T IO T-A N S D R É DE S A R T S PL.ST- T M ARD UA PID PLACE DAME N EN CHANAL EIL L ES I Île S Militaire OU CÉ E ICH V IL DE VAUBAN EL L L LE EL MICHEL Mabillon BO t - L o FL PONT ST E L UR R OQ ON IS R DA Q. INS BO u i s FOU R. T- L O U NT .

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M CO DE PLACE DE Mutualité QU MP ÉD L Q DE AI PO A CHA E E U E D D FONTENOY Dupleix Cluny L LA LA EB CI N D AV E PLACE VI A ES NE ÉTH RU L LY S T La Sorbonne UE T I O R E C ST-SULPICE E B A O D IN E SU UN R. DE MÉZIÈRES OUL NE HE UR E D VE RU VR OUD E DE RY NE RU E VA R. D' E RO SÈ DE E E La Motte LLE RD UE RUE I NT O LIVET LL ID R. F AV Piquet PO S T- G E R M A I N Vaneau DES G E UNESCO M ALL É R L TIP ÉB VAU G E N Grenelle EM La Sorbonne HA RD Rennes E P IN IR A R D INE R. DU EL R. S NA R. LET AV LE ECO D E B E R INSTITUT S DE RU DE ELL PLACE Cambronne S E L E S T-VIC R . S TR. IE R DU MONDE OC TO UF HE QU CAMBRONNE S Palais du DUR Ségur C GIN ARABE R É D .

N R TH FR OU ER AR SS DE Luxembourg BO IGNO O U RT PLACE DE ÉA X FO PÉR G IR CH EN ÉMIC TR UL VAU E FR R. BRETEUIL Panthéon Université E EV FO RU SOU PL. DU R U Pierre et Marie Curie ND R. A St-Placide L PANTHÉON Cardinal ZOLA RD SA AR E Luxembourg F F LOT ÉMIL E Y Paris VI & VII NA Lemoine XE DU RUE DI Avenue Y DE CL O VI R. GA ÉLÉM AR R. BO S Jardins du Luxembourg JU ST R. D Émile Zola Duroc ER OI R I B BARTH E -J LLIS s VI UL DE XN SS RU A MIO A I S V s EV CU ERT IE LD Notre Dame RUE UE R. U PL. DU EN GR CR R. A R D R des Champs Sèvres I Arènes de Jussieu AM TR COMMERCE R. P Lecourbe ME R . DE Lutèce R. EP NO . ET Ménageries PL.DE LA Falguière IN L ' E S TR Commerce M. C RE VIN OU APA D E CONTRESCARPE TR R. L E U R IE NE VA ARD TH R. AUG. COM T E R .

AKA E R. L DE RB Place UR GIR NAL ACÉ DE L OU RU Montparnasse PÈD S VAU Monge 'ABB Jardin des L'E LEC E GL É Bienvenue E D D E A M MOI S E ISE E L 'E RUE R . OR T O Plantes LLE LAN FER PÉE OM U JA DE DU BL R. D VE Félix La DE R. E L RUE B URDELLE POT R. E R . L H E RMI TTE Faure O RU Grande R. MICHELET DE VÉ OS Gare Volontaires Muséum E R AS R . P. E Mosquée RI CA M SQ STE E E U R Montparnasse 'A BR OS R d’Histoire naturelle R UR RU LAMBERT RO S. de Paris Pasteur L R . J. DE FEU FA R .

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NA BO RU MOU Vaugirard AR R. CE A R. D U R UN U R RU I R LEV AR FA D N R U FE E C O T EN TI U G LON -M BR ARD R. D LY O R . D E NT CA E VA I ON IL Cimetière S RBE L O N V A E U L NA S BA O SA M IL R. BR DE IS EC R. VÉ .F R du Montparnasse R. Gaité D D GU

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Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO ORLY AIRPORT The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the DenfertRochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La Motte-Picquet (88 ave de Suffren, 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes,

4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° Porte Maillot). Arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before departure time (13€). Or take TER train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.

TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly Airport/departures from Orly Airport to Charles de Gaulle Airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm.

(21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles de Gaulle to the Antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com

Visitors Bureau

Other branches include Gare du Nord (10th), Gare de l’Est (10th), Paris Rendez-vous (4th) M° Hôtel de Ville and Montmartre/Anvers (18th) M° Anvers. www.parisinfo.com

M A S S A G E

A N D

S P A

10€

CHAUFFEURED SERVICES AVAILABLE 24/7 CEIVE

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Ban Thaï Spa SH

4 SPAS IN PARIS Paris 2nd / Paris 4th / Paris 6th / Paris 16th +33 9 81 10 74 47

www.paris-massage.fr

CHANEL - DIOR - LACROIX YSL - LANVIN

L’IBIS ROUGE

Reception teams, documentation and bookings are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centres. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 25 rue des Pyramides (1st), M° Pyramides.

Opening Hours: From November 1st to April 30th, 10am to 7pm.

T H A Ï

VINTAGE & DESIGN

Airport transfers Sightseeing and excursions Shopping tour Personal shopper Concierge services

+33 (0)9 82 25 90 46 www.carlounge.fr reservations@carlounge.fr

This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery.

You will also find a fine selection of vintage alligator bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers.

35 Blvd Raspail - Paris 7th M° Sevres Babylone Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr Tuesday to Saturday 12-7pm Facebook.com/L’Ibis Rouge

Body Relaxation High quality massage, directly in your hotel room.

English, French, Spanish spoken.

7/7 call 06 85 81 09 05 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 87

NAVIGATE

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

88 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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My Paris

VICTOR REGO

HEAD CONCIERGE AT HOTEL DU COLLECTIONNEUR

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do?

I would advise them to extend their stay by one more day! Breakfast at Carette, enjoy the view of the Left Bank from the esplanade, cross the River Seine and visit the Eiffel Tower, zoom off to Saint-Germain for a light bite at Café de Flore or Deux Magots, then visit the Notre-Dame Cathedral.

Change banks and head to the Louvre to pay a visit to Mona Lisa. It will then be teatime, or more likely hot chocolate time at Angelina found two steps from the Louvre.

Take the opportunity to walk inside the Tuileries gardens and along the Avenue des Champs-Elysées until the Arc de Triomphe.

And finally, end up at Hotel du Collectionneur for a relaxing dinner in a New Orleans atmosphere at the Safran restaurant.

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table?

I do believe in authentic French gastronomy values. Le Violon d’Ingres is for me the most representative of authentic French cuisine.

It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn?

At 2am the night is still young in Paris, especially next to the Arc de Triomphe.

L’Arc nightclub is a nightlife must do.

90 W HE RE PA R I S I M AY 2017

Angelina

Jules Verne

Notre-Dame Cathedral

Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city?

When it comes to the best view from a Parisian monument, the answer, without a doubt is from the Eiffel Tower. Afraid of the line? Ask your concierge, as he or she will surely have a solution for you.

What is a location in Paris that pleasantly surprised you?

The deluxe trattoria, Caffè Artcurial, which in my opinion is worth some certain stars, where chef Enrico Einaudi delivers a fabulous taste of Italy.

As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions?

Everywhere in Paris, but certainly much more on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Avenue Montaigne and lately along Boulevard Saint-Germain.

For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner?

The second floor of the Eiffel Tower offers one of the most romantic dinner places in town, at the Jules Verne. Starting with the private lift of the restaurant (South pillar of the tower), astonishing view of the city and an amazing menu, these are the keys for a successful romantic dinner.

What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see?

Usually forgotten by our visitors, the east part of Paris does offer some hidden treasures.

Musée des Arts Forains is one of them, two steps away from Bercy Village, this museum is dedicated to old fairground arts and is an interactive surprising travelling time machine.

Where would you recommend our readers to celebrate a birthday party or a bachelor/ bachelorette party?

For the ladies, an afternoon spent in a spa followed by a karaoke evening at Bam Karaoke Box. For the gentlemen, dinner at Nos Ancêtres les Gaulois, to feast all evening.

Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisurely stroll?

Along Canal Saint-Martin between Republique and Quai de Valmy. The atmosphere of that pedestrian area on weekends punctuated by several boat locks and bistro terraces will provide you a more authentic view of our capital.

My perfect day 9am: A ristretto at the Purple Bar, outside on the terrace 12pm: Lunch at Parc Monceau with the sun shining down on me 3pm: A little chat with a regular guest about newest play or restaurant in town to see 9pm: After work drinks at Le Valois with office colleagues

where

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Your Guide to the World

Angelina © DR; Notre-Dame Cathedral Istockphoto 2017 © IakovKalinin; Jules Verne © Matt Aletti

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