Where New Orleans Oct 2016

New Orleans

OCTOBERYEAR MONTH 2016 CELEBRATING 80 YEARS OF TRAVEL

®

wheretraveler.com

Paint the Town

A+ Exhibits, Artful Architecture, Mapping Murals and More

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VOODOO MUSIC + ARTS EXPERIENCE

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STANDOUT STAND-UP ACTS

Iconic artist James Michalopolous captures the musical essence of New Orleans’ architecture.

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FOLLOW IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS It should have been impossible – crossing the world’s widest ocean to answer an attack made by a powerful adversary. Through hostile terrain and untold suffering, millions of Americans pushed past impossible to win the Pacific War. Follow in their footsteps on The Road to Tokyo, a new immersive experience at the National World War II Museum. #1 Attraction in New Orleans | #3 Museum in the U.S. – 2015 TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice ANDREW HIGGINS DR. BETWEEN CAMP AND MAGAZINE STREETS | 504.528.1944 | NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

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Fresh Florida

STONE CRABS Available October 15

Open 5 p.m. Daily • 322 Magazine Street • 504.522.7902 • chophousenola.com

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ASHLEY LONGSHORE

4537 MAGAZINE STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA (504) 333-6951 EMAIL: ASHLEY@ASHLEYLONGSHORE.COM INSTAGRAM: @ASHLEYLONGSHOREART W W W. A S H L E Y L O N G S H O R E . C O M

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New Orleans CONTENTS

10.16

SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

the plan

the guide 21

11 Ask the Expert

DINING

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Randy Boudreaux Hotel Monteleone concierge.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus Emeril's latest and cheers to Ralph Brennan.

12 Editor's Itinerary An 80-minute exploration of St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 in celebration of Where's 80th anniversary.

XX 32 SHOPPING Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus coloring books and costume shops.

14 Hot Dates Voodoo Fest That voodoo that we do so well, New Orleans Film Festival, Kenny Rogers and 20 other entertaining ideas to entertain.

GALLERIES &

40 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl. Plus pop art princess Sarah Ashley Longshore.

72 Where Inside: New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for supernatural seekers, sports fans and romantics.

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where now 16 Art + Culture COVER PROMOTION "Spiffed Up," one of artist James Michalopoulos' iconic architectural works. ©MICHALOPOULOS

One-on-one with artist James Michalopoulos, plus magnificent murals and other street art.

18 Out + About Comedy central, fall fests and Halloween parades.

CONNECT WITH US

19 Must-See Exhibits Six museums to seek out.

20 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

The art of table setting, hot restaurant dish and cool cutlery cuffs.

ENTERTAINMENT

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and music clubs. Plus arty evenings and Saints XXPelicans home games. and

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PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus ghost stories.

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 69-71

(CENTER) ©OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART; (RIGHT) ©SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE

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Birds of Prey Dress. Thread Painting On Silk

Antieau Gallery • New Orleans THE WORK OF CHRIS ROBERTS-ANTIEAU LOCATED AT 927 ROYAL ST, NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 (504) 304-0849 • www.antieaugallery.com OPEN DAILY 10AM - 8PM Antieau Gallery Uptown Located at 4532 Magazine Street, New Orleans

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YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

NEW ORLEANS

PUBLISHER Lois Sutton EDITOR Doug Brantley ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES

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RETOUCH SPECIALIST

Morton’s The Steakhouse

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Miller

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Tiffany & Co.

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The Theatres at Canal Place

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MVP | NEW ORLEANS

324 Chartres St., 2nd floor, New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 522-6468; (504) 522-0018 (fax) MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris

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Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Randy Boudreaux Concierge at the Hotel Monteleone

Q: You’re a big music fan. What acts are you most anticipating at Voodoo Fest?

A: I grew up with Tool, so I’ll definitely see them. But all the headliner acts look really good: Arcade Fire, The Weeknd, Mutemath.

Q: Any advice for Voodoo first-timers?

A: Plan your day out in advance in order to optimize the experience. And drink a lot of water in between alcoholic beverages. You don’t want to burn out too early.

Q: Name three museums visitors should seek out.

A: The National WWII Museum (p. 52); you could easily eat up three or four hours there, even if you’re not a history buff. The New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 53) and its outdoor sculpture garden and, though I’m not sure it qualifies as a museum, Mardi Gras World (p. 48). It’s really interesting to see the creative process from sketches on paper to the final floats.

Q: The Krewe of Boo! or Jim Monaghan’s Halloween Parade?

A: Krewe of Boo (p. 18) is fun and gives that Mardi Gras feel in October. But I prefer the Jim Monaghan parade because of the creativity that people put into their costumes.

It never ceases to amaze me.

©MARDI GRAS WORLD

Q: What locally made item would you like to find in your trick-or-treat bag?

A: Sucré’s (p. 28) macarons. I can’t get enough of them.

Mardi Gras World

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EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY

vintage CHANEL

CELEBRATING 80 YEARS OF TRAVEL

The Essential New Orleans October marks the official opening of the Crescent City cultural season. Art for Art’s Sake, the New Orleans Film Festival, Hell Yes Fest, opera, ballet, the Voodoo Music + Arts Experience; throw in Halloween festivities, and it’s almost frightening how much there is to do around town this month.

80 MINUTES IN:

St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 With more than 30 “cities of the dead” within the city of New Orleans, one could spend a lifetime exploring them all. St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 (p. 47), just outside of the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest and home to many of its most notable residents. Look for the aboveground tombs of Benjamin Latrobe, “the father of American architecture,” civil rights pioneer Homer Plessy, the city’s first black mayor Ernest “Dutch” Morial and (stillliving) actor Nicolas Cage. Most sought out is the XXX-marked grave of voodoo legend Marie Laveau. Painted pink by vandals in 2013, the tomb has since been restored, and visitor access limited to tour groups only. Sign up with Save Our Cemeteries (p. 51), which promotes preservation.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

in the world

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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WHERE CALENDAR OCTOBER

For more information: wheretraveler.com

Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com

HOT

TOP STOPS 20 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

DATES

CHICKIE WAH WAH Oct. 1: Marcia Ball; Oct. 16: Meschiya Lake; Oct. 29: Susan Cowsill. 2828 Canal St., 844.244.2543; chickiewahwah.com CIVIC THEATER Oct. 3: Andrew Bird; Oct. 7: Local Natives; Oct. 26: The Head and the Heart. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865; civicnola. com

Voodoo Fest

OCTOBER 28-30:

Voodoo Music + Arts Experience

Something magical happens at this time each year in City Park. A coven of followers swoops in and gathers beneath the centuries-old oaks to “worship the music” during the final ritual of the nation’s annual music-fest scene. Now in its 18th year, the Voodoo Music + Arts Experience spotlights more than 60 top-tier acts (Tool, Arcade Fire, The Weeknd) on multiple stages. Interactive art installations, costumed fest-goers and nightly after-parties that go way past the witching hour help round out the Halloween-weekend happening. For a full lineup, visit voodoofestival.com; for tickets, call 800.745.3000.

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Great Things Not to Be Missed

"The Illusionists" caption here

Grupo Corpo

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

1 JAZZ IN THE PARK > OCT. 6, 13, 20, 27 This free concert series takes place in Armstrong Park each Thursday at 5 pm. Oct 6: Soul Rebels; Oct. 13: John Papa Gros Band; Oct. 20: Mike “Soulman” Baptiste; Oct. 27: Los Hombres Calientes. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets; pufap.org

2 KENNY ROGERS > OCT. 8 The Gambler folds ’em on his final world tour.

Catch the Grammy great as he caps off his near-60-year career at the Saenger Theatre.

1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000; saengernola.com

N.O. FILM FESTIVAL > OCT. 1221 And the winner is … you. This annual Oscarqualifying event offers dozens of screenings at venues citywide. For details and a full lineup, visit neworleansfilmsociety.org.

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JOY THEATER Oct. 1: Blue October; Oct. 6: The Naked and Famous; Oct. 15: Greensky Bluegrass; Oct. 18: The New Mastersounds; Oct. 22 & 23: Jason Isbell; Oct. 31: Big Gigantic. 1200 Canal St., 800.745.3000; thejoytheater.com

GRUPO CORPO > OCT. 15 The New Orleans Ballet Association kicks off its 2016-17 season by bringing a bit of Brazil to the Big Easy with this troupe of “arguably some of the best dancers on the planet.”

Mahalia Jackson Theatre, 801 N. Rampart St., 800.745.3000; nobadance.com

ORPHEUM THEATER Oct. 23: Scott Bradlee’s Postmodern Jukebox; Oct. 28 & 29: LPO presents Brahms’ “Requiem.” 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870; orpheumnola.com

SECRET GARDENS OF THE VIEUX CARRÉ > OCT. 2223 French Quarter homeowners make their private courtyards public during this self-guided walking tour. Different properties are featured each day. 888.756.6250; patioplanters.org

SAENGER THEATRE Oct. 10: Elvis Costello; Oct. 17: Needtobreathe. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000; saengernola.com

6 THE ILLUSIONISTS > OCT. 2530 Levitation, mind-reading, underwater escapes: This traveling Broadway production wows with seven world-class performers skilled the art of trickery. Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000; saengernola.com

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Oct. 15: Keith Urban.

1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000; smoothiekingcenter.com

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(TOP) ©ANDREW GOETZ; (CENTER) ©JOAN MARCUS; (BOTTOM) ©JOSE LUIZ PEDERNEIRAS

HOUSE OF BLUES Oct. 10: Brett Dennen; Oct. 11: Yuna; Oct. 19: RX Bandits. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583; hob.com

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where now New Orleans

The city’s top events, attractions, entertainment, dining and more

ART+CULTURE

Art is everywhere you turn in New Orleans. From its numerous museums and many galleries to its centuries-old architecture and modern-day murals, the Crescent City provides a visual feast for visitors. Get out, explore and experience the art of the city.

“We Groovin’,” by James Michalopoulos

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

The Big Easel

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Q&A James Michalopoulos

PHOTO (TOP) ©SHAWN CREDIT GOES FINK; (BOTTOM) HERE ©THE POYDRAS CORRIDOR SCULPTURE EXHIBITION PRESENTED BY THE HELIS FOUNDATION; (OPENING PAGE) ©MICHALOPOULOS

Though born and raised in the Northeast, over the past three decades James Michalopoulos has become synonymous with New Orleans. The self-taught artist first gained notice during the 1980s on Bourbon Street, where he sketched portraits of passersby for $2 or $3. He has since garnered an international following, built on his trademark takes on local architecture, and positioned himself as one of the city’s most acclaimed talents. You’ll see his influence in knockoffs citywide, and discover the real deal at his eponymous French Quarter gallery (p. 43).

Q: When did you first start drawing, and what drew you to New Orleans?

I started sketching at a McDonald’s in Niagara Falls. Just bored, passing time, but I stayed with it.

I came to New Orleans on a lark about 30 years ago. My artist girlfriend suggested New Orleans so I could paint plein-air in the winter. I fell in love with the town; she did not.

Q: Many of your works, especially your early paintings, were created outdoors at night. What attracts you to nocturnal New Orleans?

There is a nether-worldly quality to New Orleans at night. At times the sky is clearly purple, and sprinkles magic. The shadows are deep, and even the ghosts roam more comfortably. The scent of sweet olive calls, and tunnels of mystery emerge beneath the oaks’ extended arms. And there you are under the stars, painting this impossibly beautiful scene, and thinking nothing could be more majestic, when a young woman rides by on her bike singing, “I-ko, I-ko un-day.”

Q: Is there any one type of architecture or a specific New Orleans neighborhood that most intrigues you?

No, I’m smitten by it all. Every neighborhood has its qualities.

That said, I’m painting a lot of the 9th Ward and Bywater, because I live there.

Q: You’ve said your paintings “move and groove.” Explain.

I like to listen to R&B while I work.

So, I dance and paint. Like any self-respecting New Orleanian, I search for my salvation in orgiastic release. The dance shall set you free!

Hiding in Plain Sight

Q: You have created six of Jazzfest’s most collectible posters: Dr. John, Louis Armstrong, Mahalia Jackson, Fats Domino, Allen Toussaint and Aaron Neville. Are there any other local musicians you’d like to depict?

The Nevilles, Tribe Nunzio, the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, Kumasi, Tommy Malone, Mem Shannon, Rosie Ledet ... who’d I miss?

Q: Where would you send visitors in search of great live music?

Chickie Wah Wah, Siberia, the AllWays Lounge and Saturn Bar. Q: You’re presently in France, where you have a summer home and focus on landscapes, and recently returned from a Hawaiian exhibition of your tropical fish paintings.

Name another destination that calls to you.

Ponchatoula [Louisiana] is a terrific old town; lots of wandering spirits and great bars.

Q: What are you currently working on?

Zen meditation, my lawn mower deck and small canvases of Old Arabi, a lovely neighborhood that sits on the river and reflects on the Big Easy, kind of like Algiers but smaller. The details on the old houses will knock you out.

THE BIGGER PICTURE Sadly, some of the city’s best public art often goes unnoticed. Where Y’Art is out to change that.

The virtual gallery (whereyart.net), which connects art lovers with more than 100 local crafters, recently introduced Hiding in Plain Sight, a blog that maps the growing number of mustsee murals around town. Canvassing New Orleans neighborhoods from Bywater to Uptown, the evolving series adds new entries to Where Y’Art’s Instagram feed each Sunday. See a mural that deserves attention? Snap a shot, and send it in for inclusion. Street art is also celebrated in the exhibit 1900 Block, which opens Oct. 14 at Where Y’Art’s brick-and-mortar space (1901 Royal St., 504.325.5672).

public-art project that began in 2006 as a way of rebuilding the city’s art scene following Hurricane Katrina, has added a few new feathers to its cap. The Poydras Street Corridor Sculpture Exhibition presented by the Helis Foundation, which was once confined to the Central Business District, now stretches from the Mississippi past the Superdome toward Mid-City. Among the recent additions is Texas-based sculptor William Canning’s “Stacked V” at Poydras and Carondelet streets.

Constructed from sheet steel inflated with compressed

air, the installation’s pillowy squares spin separately, changing colors and mirroring life along the busy thoroughfare. But what really stops traffic is “Avian Avatars” by the Boston-based collective The Myth Makers. The series of five 20-ft.-tall birds— a red tail hawk, an owl, a crow, a falcon and a pigeon (symbolizing tourists)— runs along Poydras, between S. Claiborne and S. Galvez streets.

Woven from tree branches and incorporating other notso-natural elements (golf clubs, plastic bags), the giant sculptures keep watch over the expanding street scene.

ARTY AVENUE Sculpture for New Orleans, the ongoing

“Avian Avatars”

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WHERE NOW New

Orleans Silverman

Fall Festing When autumn temps dip, the city’s outdoor festival scene heats up.

Sedaris

BEIGNET FEST “What’s the last iconic food to New Orleans that doesn’t have a festival?” That’s the question Sherwood Collins posed to wife Amy when the two set out to create a fundraiser for kids with developmental delays. Enter the beignet, the city’s signature pastry. Get your fill Oct. 8 at Lafayette Square (St. Charles Ave. and Lafayette

Blues & BBQ Fest

St.), where regional restaurants will serve up sweet and savory versions, backed by live music. beignetfest.com CRESCENT CITY BLUES AND BBQ FESTIVAL Lafayette Square is likewise the setting for this annual celebration of two Southern staples Oct. 14-16.

Presented by the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Foundation, which also produces Jazzfest, the free fete features blues legends, such as Taj Mahal, along with regional acts and New Orleans notables, including recent Grammy winner Jon Cleary. Did we mention the award-worthy barbecue? crescentcitybluesfest.com

THE WALKING DEAD Goblins and ghouls rise up and take to the streets for the annual Krewe of Boo! Parade Oct. 22 at 6:30 pm. Starting at OUT+ABOUT

Good Humor, Man Seriously, there’s nothing better than a good joke.

You’ll hear plenty of them Oct. 7-16 during the 5th annual Hell Yes Fest. The Gulf Coast’s largest comedy festival features more than 20 stand-up acts at various venues around town. NOLA Brewing plays host to Clayton English Oct. 10 and Hasan Minhaja Oct. 14, while the Joy Theater welcomes Cameron Esposito Oct. 11 and Nick Swardson Oct. 14, and Emmy winner Sarah Silverman (“The Sarah Silverman Project”) closes things out Oct. 16 at the Saenger. Don’t arrive until the following week? Funny coincidence: Grammy-winning author and humorist David Sedaris (“Naked,” “Me Talk Pretty One Day”) plays for laughs Oct. 25 at the Orpheum Theater. hellyesfest.com; orpheumnola.com

Elysian Fields and N. Peters Street, the family-friendly affair, featuring spooky floats and locally made throws (Aunt Sally’s pralines, PJ’s coffee packs), rolls through the French Quarter and along Canal Street, ending at Mardi Gras World with a costumed after-party. Big kids get into the spirits with the more adult-themed Jim Monaghan’s Halloween Parade, which kicks off Oct. 31 at 6 pm from Decatur and Ursulines streets. Forget candy corn; horrifyingly risqué costumes are the big treat at this fun free-for-all.

Krewe of Boo! Parade

(TOP LEFT) ©HELL YES FEST; (BOTTOM LEFT) ©ROBERT BANKS; (TOP RIGHT) ©CHERYL GERBER; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ©RICHARD NOWITZ

TREMÉ FALL FESTIVAL The nation’s oldest AfricanAmerican neighborhood ushers in October with a celebration of its food, music, art and culture. Centered around historic St. Augustine Church (p. 49), the Oct. 1-2 event offers live performances by local greats like Glenn David Andrews and Little Freddie King. Admission is free, but donations are encouraged to help restore the circa-1842 church. tremefest.com

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(FROM TOP LEFT) ©NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART; ©HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; ©HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; ©NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM; ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

“Goods of Every Description” “Shadow Pictures”

Caption 7 pt, Myriad Pro Semi“Marking the Infinite”

“Seeing Nature”

MUST-SEE EXHIBITS

Museum Quality Art for Arts’ Sake, the city’s annual autumnal art stroll (Oct. 1), isn’t confined to just galleries. Museums also mount new exhibitions that continue throughout the month. Stop in, and see what’s new on the walls.

HISTORIC NEW OR LEANS COLLECTION A century of consumerism is chronicled in Goods of Every Description: Shopping in New Orleans, 1825-1925. The free exhibit, which continues through April, explores the city’s evolution as a global trade center. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662 LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS The art of the silhouette is showcased in Shadow Pictures, which continues through Oct. 23. View examples from the

18th through 20th centuries then create your own. 7 Bamboo Rd., 504.488.5488 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART Photography is the focus of Something In the Way and Kenneth Josephson, an overview of the renowned cameraman’s 60-year career.

Opening Oct. 14: Seeing Nature spans four centuries of landscapes through works by Cézanne, Monet and others.

1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100

NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM Contemporary aboriginal art is examined in Marking the Infinite, which features works by nine women from remote areas of Australia.

Also on view: Newcomb Enterprise, select items culled from the museum’s permanent collection. 55 Newcomb Pl., 504.865.5328 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART Simon Gunning and the Southern Louisiana Landscape spotlights the

Australian-born local photographer’s Mississippi River scenes, while Maude Schuyler Clay: Mississippi History captures a quarter-century of life in the Delta. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650 NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM Tom Lea: Life and World War II salutes the Texas muralist/ illustrator/war correspondent who traveled more than 100,000 miles during the 1940s covering the conflict for Life magazine. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944

“Tom Lee: Life and World War II”

Myriad Pro Semi-bold Semi-extended Caption.

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WHERE NOW New

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, notable and not to be missed

Cavan FOOD+DRINK

The Art of the Meal There is a website devoted to showcasing the bizarre things chefs and restaurants use as plates: shoes, flowerpots, mini shopping carts, skateboards, animal-head sculpture, Legos.... The list is endless and endlessly hilarious. WeWantPlates.com is pushback against the insanity, a call to action for bringing back old-school, simple ceramic plates.

BAR FRANCIS Chef Brendan Kahill is turning out smart contemporary dishes at this charming new bistro and wine bar.

The dinner menu’s small plates and veg lists are packed with great bits, like the earthy and tart “Mushroom Toast” with grilled and pickled mushrooms, or snap peas dusted with lavender salt. At dessert, go for the balsamic-marinated strawberries surrounded by a silky cloud of black pepper-laced Italian meringue. Sexy and sinful. 4525 Freret St., 504.371.5043

crunchies, and make sure to scope out the wall art in the bathroom.

739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428 SEAWORTHY In a revived CBD townhouse, a killer culinary team rocks oysters from all over, along with fish, game and cool cocktails. A great lobster roll?

Yep, and there’s a burger made of Louisiana wagyu, topped with country ham; beer-battered softshell crabs; caviar with garnishes; and homey desserts. What about those oysters? Slurp any or all from the Gulf, East and West coasts with no regrets. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071 —LG

TURKEY AND THE WOLF The toy shop-meets diner-meets bar-meets gallery vibe at this fun and funky spot means eating fried baloney with American cheese, hot mustard and chips on locally baked Texas toast, or smokey ham with cranberry, herbed mayo, aged cheddar and arugula. Do not miss the wedge salad with house blue cheese and “everything bagel”

Seaworthy

LOUISIANA PURCHASE Wearable culinary art is a thing: T-shirts emblazoned with

flat or slightly curved, matte-finish plates to support meats and cool salads; cups that fit neatly in hand and are perfect for sipping tea or booze; sweet, lipped bowls for condiments.

Her ceramics have since begun popping up all over. Essig, now a partner at Coquette (p. 27), recently ordered oversize platters for the restaurant’s “Little Bird” bar service and “Fried Chicken and Champagne” family-style dinners.

At Drip Affogato Bar (703 Carondelet St.), you’ll spot straight-sided beakers used for shots of espresso poured over ice cream. Kennedy’s work can also be found at Little Flea NOLA (1923 Sophie Wright Pl.) Oct. 9 and 23 and online at bernceramics.com.

Getting “Bern-ed” is all about setting a special table that supports the arts—culinary and ceramic. —Lorin Gaudin

food images, hair barrettes detailed with oyster shells and, of course, jewelry. The foodies’ newest obsession: bracelets and cuffs by Judy Gamache Digeorge. Made from stainless, copper and copperplate, Gamache Designs’ cuffs are bedecked with a single utensil (fork, knife or spoon) on a slim band or a complete utensil set on a wide cuff. Either way, these tasteful, simple bracelets are great alone or stacked together. A gowith-everything gift, you’ll find them at NOLA Boards (p. 37) and at judydigeorge.weebly.com. —LG

(TOP AND CENTER) ©RUSH JAGOE; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK

New Orleans’ classic restaurants (Brennan’s, Galatoire’s) have never strayed too far from white bone china, while more modern tables around town are set with earthy plates in colors pulling gently from nature. When all things locally made, sourced and grown became part of the dining norm, chefs seized the moment to bring the movement to table setting.

Chef Kristen Essig was fleamarket shopping when she discovered Maureen Kennedy’s Bern Ceramics and fell in love.

“Maureen’s work is beautiful and unfussy, great for showing off food,” says Essig, who commissioned a complete range of plateware for Cavan (p. 31), which she has since departed.

Kennedy completed the Herculean task (she works mostly solo), providing pieces that are gorgeous, textural and enticing:

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the guide Dining October

Emeril City

A Toast to the Host

Emeril Lagasse, who first rose to fame in the kitchen at Commander’s Palace during the 1980s and later took his “New New Orleans” cuisine nationwide, is back in the Big Easy with a brand new restaurant. Meril (424 Girod St., 504.526.3745)—located in the Warehouse District just blocks from Emeril’s (p. 21), the celebrity chef’s first restaurant—is his fourth in the city, joining the French Quarter’s NOLA (p. 26) and elegant Emeril’s Delmonico (p. 28, shown) in the Lower Garden District. More casual than his other venues, Meril is also reflective of Lagasse’s travels over the years, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork-rib tamales.

Restaurateur Ralph Brennan receives the 2016 Ella Brennan Lifetime Achievement in Hospitality Award Oct. 6 at the Ritz-Carlton (nowfe.com). Can’t make the ceremony?

Celebrate at one of his many eateries: Brennan’s (p. 23), Café NOMA (p. 29), Napoleon House (p. 26), Ralph’s on the Park (p. 29) or Red Fish Grill (p. 26).

Central Business/ Warehouse District

(LEFT) ©EMERIL’S DELMONICO; (RIGHT) ©BRENNAN’S

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers

sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Biderman’s

award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Hand-ground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; house-made mayo and pickles; freshbaked buns. Add a side of hand-cut, twice-cooked fries...and dig in. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Luicia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare

and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot is counted among celebrated local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-of-thenorm antipasta, handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship

sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (daily). www.emerils.com.

800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 GRAND ISLE Seafood. This comfy seafood house

boasts such standouts as crab-and-brie handpies, crispy calamari, fisherman’s stew and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the oyster bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer served w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21

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THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................21

French Quarter.........................................................................................23 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 27 Marigny/Bywater....................................................................................28 Mid-City..........................................................................................................29 Uptown..........................................................................................................29

from taps encased in ice. $$ L, D (daily). www. grandislerestaurant.com. 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6 HERBSAINT French. James Beard Award-winning

chef Donald Link’s entrées range from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. The gumbo is a must-get. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com. 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery, snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. The “Peanut Butter Pie Budino” is a must for dessert. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Sa-Su, brunch. www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MANNING’S Southern. The fun, casual menu at

former New Orleans Saints quarterback Archie Manning’s sports-themed restaurant puts fresh spins on tailgating classics. Crab-stuffed deviled eggs, crawfish mac’ n’ cheese—one of everything, please. $$ L, D (daily). www.harrahsneworleans. com. 519 Fulton St., 504.593.8118. Map 3, D6 MULATE’S Cajun. A family friendly restaurant

Now Serving Frozen Daiquiris

where the Cajun food (dark-roux gumbos, fried alligator, catfish smothered in crawfish etouffée) is only one of the highlights. Two-step to live music nightly. Also available for private functions. $ L, D (daily). www.mulates.com. 201 Julia St., 504.522.1492. Map 3, C7 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands. The focus here is on James Beard Award winner chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2016

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DINING

it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

refers to marinara sauce, and at this cozy restaurant, you’ll find rustic Italian specialties such as handmade pasta and homemade meatballs. A farm-to-table restaurant, Red Gravy supports local farmers, fishers and bakers. Come for the Sicilian egg pie at brunch or hand-filled ravioli at dinner. $$ Brunch (daily); D (Th-Sa). www.redgravycafe.com.

125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT AUGUST French. In New Orleans,

chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a vision.

Bo

2 ur 00 bo ns !

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap (including a full line of locally made Abita brews), live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7

RED GRAVY Italian. In New Orleans “red gravy”

The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www. restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 TOMMY G’S PIZZERIA & BAR Italian. Convenient

to the Convention Center, this casual spot serves subs, a variety of pasta entrees, house-made lasagna, calzones and pizza whole or by the slice. $ L, D, (daily). www.tommygspizzeria.com. 901 Convention Center Blvd., 504.561.8881. Map 3, C8 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and lamb pot pie. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell.

Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’ boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Home of the New Orleans Bourbon Society (NOBS).

A spirited society dedicated to the appreciation of fine bourbons. NOBS hosts regular whiskey events and tastings catered towards the bourbon enthusiast.

Please visit www.BourbonHouse.com to sign up!

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 23

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continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (Tu-Su). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Recently renovated,

Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Neal Swindler serves up modern Creole cuisine (crab croquettes with mango glaze), along with Old World classics. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.broussards. com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana. Located in a gorgeous

French Quarter courtyard and carriage house that was once home to Alice Heine, America’s first Princess of Monaco, this is the perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle, satsuma-pepper glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Su brunch. A quick-service offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 412-8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and

delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 10 am. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4

THE

PELICAN CLUB Restaurant & Bar “Their food is marked by a consistent search for excellence in preparing the finest fresh ingredients with superior skill and finesse.”

IN THE FRENCH QUARTER ON EXCHANGE ALLEY (504) 523-1504 PELICANCLUB.COM

CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (Tu-Sa). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The

French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the baby back ribs, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and fresh grilled redfish with soft-shell crab. Live jazz nightly (no cover). $$ L, D (daily). www.crescentcitybrewhouse. com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5 DESIRE OYSTER BAR Louisiana. In addition to its

trademark oysters on the half shell, this Bourbon Street bistro serves up Belgian waffles, po’ boys, burgers and entrées such as crawfish etouffeé and shrimp and grits. $ B, L, D (daily). www.sonesta. com. 300 Bourbon St. (in the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.586.0300. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2016

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beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue ribeye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop featuring superior quality dry-aged meats. A full remodel of the historic space is alone worth a visit, though the hungerinducing menu also impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com.

620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has

taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa- Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 25

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THE GUIDE

MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro is a perennial hot spot. The menu is filled with Emeril creations such as Louisiana crab cakes with Creole tartar sauce, pork cheek boudin balls with tomato-bacon jam and a grilled double-cut pork chop with pecan-glazed sweet potatoes. $$ L (Th-M), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

334 Royal St

7:00am-10:00pm

311 Bourbon St 8:00am-Midnight

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

Photo: Kaela Rodehorst Williams

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 PELICAN CLUB Louisiana. A well-kept secret of sav-

vy gourmets. Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors.

The seared tuna with Gulf shrimp is excellent, as are the roasted baby lamb rack, filet of tenderloin with wild mushroom sauce. Try the seafood martini appetizer. $$ D (daily). www.pelicanclub.com. 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may

Beignets, Coffees, breakfast & lunch menus, with “Local Libations” at the Bourbon Street location!

www.cafebeignet.com

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DINING

wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated; try the turtle soup, shrimp remoulade or oysters from the raw bar. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.revolutionnola.com.

777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. Pastry chef extraordi-

naire Tariq Hanna’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for afternoon tea, a glass of wine and daily protein selections that can be ordered as an app or main course.

Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Brunch, D (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com.

622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south

of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B, L, D (daily). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambi-

ance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner.

The adventuresome can try the Korean beef po’ boy or the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, corned beef hash and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef Gus Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (SaSu). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

Enjoy an afternoon drink in our courtyard.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 THE DELACHAISE WINE BAR Eclectic. Home to

one of the city’s more lively wine scenes with numerous vintages offered by the glass, along with artisan beers and fine liquors. Hungry?

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THE GUIDE

glazed frog legs, pommes frites fried in goose fat, Mofongo (fried plantains stuffed with stewed chicken). Eat—and drink—up. $ L (F-Su), D (nightly). www.thedelachaise.com. 3442 St. Charles Ave., 504.895.0858. Map 1, D4 EMERIL’S DELMONICO Creole. Located on the St.

Charles streetcar line, this elegant circa-1895 restaurant now serves chef Emeril Lagasse’s modern takes on Creole classics. Start with the house-made charcuterie, before moving on to dry-aged steaks, shrimp Bordelaise or reinvented drum meunière. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937. Map 1, D3 JUAN’S FLYING BURRITO Mexican. Can a Mexican

joint be both funky and family friendly? Uh, yes, if it’s called Juan’s, where the jerk chicken and mango salad is almost a spiritual experience, and the “Gutter Punk” burrito will turn you into a regular customer. $ L, D (daily). www.juansflyingburrito. com. 2018 Magazine St., 504.569.0000. Map 1, D4; 515 Baronne St., 504.529.5825. Map 3, C4; 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.9950. Map 1, D3 MIYAKO SUSHI BAR & HIBACHI Japanese. Hibachis

are the draw here, but sushi lovers will be just as happy. Dexterous hibachi chefs wow guests, preparing lobster, prime rib, scallops and more.

Sushi, sashimi and tempura are also on the menu. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.miyakonola.com. 1403 St. Charles Ave., 504.410.9997. Map 1, D3 ROOT/SQUARE ROOT Contemporary. Two hip

restaurants in one. Upstairs the focus is on chef Phillip Lopez’s contemporary twists on culinary standards and creative charcuterie. Downstairs centers around 16 seats flanking an open kitchen and Lopez’s multi-course tasting menu (online reservations only). $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.squarerootnola. com. 1800 Magazine St., 504.309.7800. Map 1, D4 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti. St., 504.708.4366. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. A Sunday-only treasure no

more. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is now a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard.

Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 THE JOINT Barbecue. This funky Bywater fave

is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. Featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.alwayssmokin.com. 701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3 MARIZA Italian. Chef/owner Ian Schnoebelen’s

cozy-chic Italian-inspired space in the trendy Rice Mill Lofts. Try the goat-ricotta bruschetta, yellowfin tuna carpaccio or black linguini with shrimp and crab. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.marizaneworleans.com.

2900 Chartres St., 504.598.5700. Map 1, E3

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N7 French. Counted among the nation’s Top 10

new restaurants by Bon Appetit, this quiet, tuckedaway bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. The menu is divided into plated dishes (steamed mussels, hangar steak with crushed potatoes) and specialty tinned seafood. A lovely wine list, great music and fine service equate to total charm. $$ D (M-Sa). 1117 Montegut St., no phone. Map 1, E3 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au natural. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); brunch (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 CAFÉ NOMA Contemporary. Located within the

New Orleans Museum of Art, Ralph Brennan’s contemporary bistro offers an artful mix of small plates, soups, salads and sandwiches. $ L (Tu-Su), D (F). www.cafenoma.com. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.482.1264. Map 3, D2 DOOKY CHASE Creole. One of the oldest African-

American restaurants in the nation. Chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” has built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as her seemingly simple red beans and rice, steaming gumbo and crispy-yet-tender fried chicken. $$ L (Tu-F), D (F). www.dookychaserestaurant.com.

2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran

restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with eggplant and cranberries, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragou. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great off-the-

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DINING

under $20? Chef/owner Nathaniel Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’ boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s Riverbend restaurant is light and airy. His market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.carrolltonmarket.com.

8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 3, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beauti-

ful deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Ben Thibodeaux’s casual coastal cuisine. Start with the scallop crudo or crab-and-avocado toast, before moving on to the seared Gulf fish. Or just grab a cocktail at the bar, while munching on Old Bayseasoned fries. $$ D (daily). www.cavannola.com.

3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. What once was a

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corner grocery has been exquisitely transformed into an intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére 3/10/15 11:06:43 AM cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.lapetitegrocery.com.

4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE American. A New Orleans

landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food.

Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

Israel at this modern Mediterranean eatery from chef Alon Shaya of restaurant Domenica fame.

Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant. com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 SLICE Italian. As its name suggests, this popular

pizzeria offers New York-style pies by the slice, as well as whole. Along with a large selection of topnotch toppings, pasta dishes, calzones and subs are featured, in addition to soups, salads, beer and wine. $ L, D (daily). www.slicepizzeria.com. 5538 Magazine St., 504.897.4800. Map 1, D4; 1513 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.7437. Map 1, D3 TAL’S HUMMUS Mediterranean. Soft, spongy pita

fresh from the oven is a great vehicle for this Israeli restaurant’s creamy hummus, while the tendercrunchy falafel is extra delicious dragged through silky tahini and beef kabobs are cooled by yogurt sauce. $$ L, D (daily). www.ordertalsonline.com.

4800 Magazine St., 504.267.7357. Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE

Shopping

A Colorful Town

Get Your Ghoul On

Add a little Crescent City color to your life with a New Orleans coloring book. NOLA Kids (p. 34) helps keep small hands active with “Doodles Pelican State Coloring Fun,” which combines depictions of local icons (the French Market, Creole tomatoes) with snippets of local lore, while Dirty Coast (p. 32) touches on everything from alligators to zydeco with “A NOLA ABC Coloring Book.” The New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 53) caters to big kids with the “NOMA Coloring Book,” which spotlights pieces from its permanent collection. A fan of Arts and Crafts pottery? Give the Newcomb Art Museum’s (p. 53) “Newcomb Enterprise: Coloring Book” (shown) a spin.

Half the fun of Halloween is dressing the part. Locals line up at Funky Monkey (p.

32) and Uptown Costume (4326 Magazine St., 504.895.7969) for masks, makeup and all manner of get-ups and guises. Wig out at Fifi Mahony’s (p. 36, shown), or go full-on Hollywood at Southern Costume Company (951 Lafayette St., 504.895.7969).

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS William Faulkner lived

at this address in 1925, and it was here he penned his novel Soldiers’ Pay. First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings.

Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New

Orleans couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

FLEURTY GIRL When Lauren Thom

began printing T-shirts in her kitchen in 2009 little did she know just how big the small venture would quickly become. Today her popular designs are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3 FUNKY MONKEY Come Halloween the line to

get in this vintage clothing shop can stretch clear down the block. Once inside you’ll understand why. This place is packed with kitschy castoffs that make for great costumes. 3127 Magazine St., 504.899.5587. Map 1, D4 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3308 Magazine St., 504.269.4005. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City

love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie.com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2

PENELOPE Affordable luxury is the key phrase at

this sophisticated women’s boutique. Searching for edgy elegance with a European accent? You’ll find it here at hard-to-beat prices: All items are under $100. 328 Chartres St., 504.522.5893. Map 3, F4 TOTAL WOMAN This boutique offers such design-

ers as Diane von Furstenberg, Trina Turk, Vince and Shin Choi, in addition to shoes and accessories

by Tracy Reese, Robert Rodriguez and Gucci. www.totalwomanola.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.891.3964. Map 1, D4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 YVONNE LAFLEUR Designer Yvonne LaFleur has

been one of New Orleans’ foremost designers for

“MAKIN’ GROCERIES,” a local expression for visiting the supermarket, is a derivation of the French phrase “faire son marché,” which means “to do one’s market shopping.”

(LEFT) ©TRACEY BELLINA-MILAZZO; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Books & Music

Crescent City-inspired slogans. www. dirtycoast.com. 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; 2121 Chartres St. 504.324.6459. Map 3, J5

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THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Books & Music ......................................................................................... 32

Clothing........................................................................................................ 32 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 34 Gourmet Food & Spirits ................................................................. 35 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 35 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 36 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 37 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 37 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 39 Special Services...................................................................................... 39

more than four decades, crafting custom millinery, business attire, ball gowns, lingerie—even her own signature fragrance. www.yvonnelafleur.com. 8131 Hampson St., 504.866.9666. Map 1, C3

Gifts & Collectibles BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRESearching for a set of

custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. www.feelthebite.com. 709 St. Ann St, 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4 BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including

designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

everything from toys and kitchen accessories to sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. are also available. www.ideafactoryneworleans.com.

924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s bou-

tique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2016

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items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume. com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 RAZZLE DAZZLE Searching for great gift items?

Step into this French Quarter boutique, where Mardi Gras masks and collectibles are coupled

with jewerly, locally made candles, seasonal home accents and more. www.razzledazzle.com. 742 Royal St., 504.568.0001. Map 3, G4 RED ARROW WORKSHOP Louisiana-themed gifts,

art prints, handmade leather goods and apparel can be found at this hip shop. Opened as an extension of its Lafayette home base, the store features work by dozens of New Orleans and Acadian artists. www.redarrowworkshop.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.5304. Map 1, D4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods

geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LAURA’S CANDIES Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

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locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on buying from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

The Shops at Canal Place 333 Canal Street, Second Level New Orleans, LA 70130 www.wehmeiers.com • 504-681-2082

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4

Hats & Accessories FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for pro-

fessionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.goodfeet.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

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QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4 SHOE BE DO “NOLA’s newest addiction” offers

high-fashion women’s shoes without the high prices that usually accompany them. Get a step ahead with a large selection of cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

FOR INFANTS, TODDLERS AND CHILDREN

nola kids

WEHMEIER’S This emporium stocks a wide

variety of super-premium items in exotic leathers, including alligator, ostrich and lizard belts, bags and accessories. Fine leather boots for both men and women from Lucchese, Old Gringo and Lane are featured. www.wehmeiers.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.681.2082. Map 3, E5

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and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country. www. meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4

Experience the Charm of the Historic French Quarter

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

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antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink wig?

Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. www.fifimahonys. com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 MECCA ESSENTIAL SALTS & BATH PRODUCTS

Over the past two decades Mecca Davis has traveled the South, searching out natural skin-care remedies. The result is her popular line of organic bath bombs and scented Epsom salts, found at the French Market. www.meccaessential.com. French Market, 504.408.3402. Map 3, H5 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., level A. Map 3, D7; 140 Carondelet St. Map 3, D3

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THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City branch

of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments, along with rejuvenating facials and more. www.neworleans.woodhousespas. com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

ADVERTISEMENT

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Home & Garden THE ARTISTIC HOMEThis spot features home

furnishings made by local artists. Shoppers will find everything from handmade jewelery to tables, chairs and coffee tables made from reclaimed materials. 1920 Magazine St., 985.869.3339. Map 1, D4 COUTELIER Form and function combine at this Riv-

erbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are knife-sharpening services, cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks.com. 8239 Oak Street, 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222 Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET

NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 RAZZE DAZZLE HOME Contemporary furnishings

and tableware meld with estate pieces at this home decor shop. www.razzledazzle.com. 2014 Magazine St., 504.523.9525. Map 1, D4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring s also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com.

3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop.

As its name suggests, fleurs de lis are prominent. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 KREWE DU OPTIC Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett

has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade frames. www.kreweduoptic.com.

809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 37

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• Clocks • Puzzles • Office

Toys • Boxes • Games •

Gizmos • Gadgets • Gifts of Wood

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MOST MAGICAL COURTYARD, ENJOY OUR UNFORGETTABLE CUISINE A

Wednesday-Friday Lunch & Dinner Saturday & Sunday Brunch & Dinner

Papier Plume 842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

FRENCH QUARTER FAVORITE

912 Royal Street at Dumaine 504-412-8965

www.cafeamelie.com

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MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

Mid-Century Modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to friends, or to themselves and then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4

Malls/Major Retailers GULFPORT PREMIUM OUTLETS It may be an hour’s

drive, but a day trip to this popular outlet mall is well worth the investment for bargain hunters.

The sprawling complex offers deep savings at more than 70 leading retailers (from Ann Taylor and J. Crew to Coach and Nike). Open daily. www. premiumoutlets.com. 10000 Factory Shops Blvd., Gulfport, Miss., 228.867.6100.

APPAREL & ACCESSORIES 3536 Toulouse Street nolatilyadie.com

#nolatilyadie

JAX BREWERY This 1891 brewhouse is now a

537 ROYAL ST. 2048 MAGAZINE ST. trashydiva.com 504.299.3939

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away

Put the power of Where® in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

riverfront marketplace with three levels of shops and restaurants. www.jacksonbrewery.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.566.7245. Map 3, G5 LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Coach, Macy’s Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Canal Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio, Coach and Le Creuset. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place

features some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers, such as Mignon Faget and Wehmeier’s, and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Special Services LUXE LIMOSINESThis professional car service

provides top-notch transport around the city in chauffeured sedans, SUVs, stretch limos and minibuses. www.neworleansluxurylimos.com. 7233 General Haig St., Metairie, 504.324.4028 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 39

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Galleries+Antiques This Place Pops Town & Country compared her to Andy Warhol; Forbes calls her one of the South’s leading female entrepreneurs. Both are fitting descriptions of local artist Sarah Ashley Longshore, whose popular pop art is counted among private collections worldwide. Like Warhol, Longshore’s colorful works target celebrities (Anna Wintour, Frida Kahlo, Lil Wayne), brand names (Chanel, Veuve Clicquot, Louis Vuitton) and consumerism. Best known for her series of quirky Audrey Hepburn paintings (“Audrey in Space,” “Audrey With Siamese Fighting Fish”), Longshore also dabbles in home décor, fashion and performance art. Step into her Uptown studio and gallery (4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951), with its giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll instantly understand why Elle dubbed her “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.”

ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 608 Julia St., 504.309.0394. Map 3, C5 ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contem-

porary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are featured. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’

preeminent exhibition space for AfricanAmerican artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www.stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

wheretraveler.com

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This

gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. www.jonathanferraragallery.com.

400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary

is the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. www. martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery. com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Steve Taylor and Charles Thysell. www.angelakinggallery.com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern

France on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-

BOTH AN ART LOVER and cocktail connoisseur? Invest in a bottle of Old New Orleans Rum, which features artist/founder James Michalopoulos’ iconic imagery on its rear label.

©SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE

Central Business/ Warehouse District

artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary.com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6

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3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494

artandeyesnola.com

CUTTING EDGE FRAMES ..... indy eyewear like nowhere else.....

Luca Pagni and Kuboraum.

Both hand made in Italy.

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THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 40

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 40 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................45 Collectives ................................................................................................. 45 Other Locations .................................................................................... 45

Sole and Simple | 27” x 19”

this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4; 611 & 619 Royal St. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast

majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo.com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4 CALLAN FINE ART Specializing in fine European

paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery features museum-quality examples from the Academic, Barbizon, Impressionistic and Post-Impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FOUNDATION GALLERY This gallery is as in-

novative as the Louisiana artists it spotlights.

A portion of proceeds from monthly rotating exhibits benefits New Orleans nonprofits. www. foundationgallerynola.com. 1109 Royal St., 504.568.0955. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. D4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive

showroom features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture.

You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JACK GALLERY Rediscover the golden age of

advertising with recreated vintage posters by Cappiello, Steinlen, Toulouse-Lautrec and others. The works of Tom Everhart (the only artist authorized to use “Peanuts” characters in his designs), and creations by Rolling Stones guitarist Ron Wood are also featured. www.jackgallery.com. 813 Royal St., 504.588.1777. Map 3, H4 JACK SUTTON ANTIQUES The Sutton family has

been one of Royal Street’s most prominent since 1915. This emporium is an elegantly decorated living room filled with 19th- and 20th-century decorative antiques, vintage watches, fine jewelry, dinnerware and paintings. 315 Royal St., 504.522.0555. Map 3, F4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s

established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals in

international oil paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in objects

for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining

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tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware and rustic farmhouse implements are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MAISON ROYALE Original impressionistic and post-

impressionistic oilworks are the focus here. Featured artists include Camille Pisarro, Maurice Utrillo and Raoul Dufy, among others. www.maisonroyale. com. 501 Royal St., 504.524.5045. Map 3, F4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MARTIN WELCH ART Martin “the Crab Man” Welch

has been capturing crustaceans on canvas since 2002. His brightly hued, sea-themed works have been showcased at the New Orleans Museum of Art as well as on the HBO series “Treme.” www.martinwelchart.com. 223 Dauphine St., 504.388.4240. Map 3, F3 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com.

411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

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504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for history and Hollywood

buffs, this hip shop is filled with maps, signed collectibles and one-of-a-kind jewelry. Marilyn Monroe glamour pics, first-edition novels and assorted music memorabilia are among the many offerings.

329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 43

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with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec. Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection, along with sculpture by Richard McDonald, Martin Eichinger and Paige Bradley. www.windsorfineart. com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown AS YOU LIKE IT SILVER SHOP This shop stocks

silver flatware in hundreds of active and inactive patterns. Browse among tea services, goblets and more. www.asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. 3033 Magazine St., 504.897.6915. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 GARDEN DISTRICT GALLERY This gallery, located

near Commander’s Palace restaurant, features rotating exhibits by local, regional and national artists. www.gardendistrictgallery.com. 1332 Washington Ave., 504.891.3032. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture found here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works (oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks) by dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 100 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

YOUR EVENT WILL BE CELEBRATED IN HISTORY. H E R M A N N -GR I M A H O US E N E W O R LE A N S ’ H I S T O R I C EVENT S ET T ING .

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5

Other Locations FRENCHMEN ART MARKET This plein air art market

fills an alley tucked among Frenchmen Street’s famed music halls. From handcrafted jewelery to handmade soaps to folk art, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares. Open Th-Su, 7 pm-1 am. 619 Frenchmen St., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5 STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ giant graffiti-style mu-

820 saint louis street | events@hgghh.org hgghh.org

rals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space in the Bywater neighborhood. The evocative collection explores African-American life, from the Civil RIghts era to the Black Lives Matter movement, through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr. and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm.

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THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Art in the Park

Two+Two=Score!

From the 1930s until his death in 1999, Mexican-born sculptor Enrique Alférez made his mark on New Orleans with dozens of public art works scattered around town, from Lakefront Airport to City Park (p. 47), where he created everything from benches to water fountains as part of the WPA project. This month the park’s Helis Foundation Enrique Alférez Sculpture Garden pays homage to its namesake with weekly Evenings With Enrique events. Each Wednesday, from 5:30 to 8 pm, guides will be on hand to discuss Alférez’s work and his lasting influence on the city, while local musicians perform and area food trucks serve up mojitos and Mexican fare.

The New Orleans Saints play two home games at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome (p. 48) this month, taking on the Carolina Panthers Oct. 16 and the Seattle Seahawks Oct. 30. At the adjacent the Smoothie King Center (p. 48), the New Orleans Pelicans tip off against the Denver Nuggets Oct. 26 and the Golden State Warriors Oct. 28.

Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT) ©MICHAEL C. HEBERT

AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $24.95 adults, $18.95 seniors and $18.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times.

This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $23.95 adults, $18.95 seniors and $17.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUMThe nation’s largest museum devoted to

insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $19.95 adults, $14.95 seniors, $14.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On

the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute. org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

There’s a lot more going onthis thisOctober. month. on Visit us online:

worleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2

wheretraveler.com

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800

animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. $19.95 adults, $14.95 seniors, $14.95 ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities

of the dead” act as windows on the past, offering insight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, just outside the Quarter, is the city’s oldest; Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number of her works there. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night.

CHAMPIONS SQUAREThis open-air venue, adja-

cent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts 45,000 sq. ft. and state-of-the-art technology. The space plays host to free fan fests during New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year. www.champions-square.com.

1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2 CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush

canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www.ne-

CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade.

Stretching from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers jogging and biking paths, a dog run and picture-perfect picnic areas www.crescentparknola.org.

ENTERGY GIANT SCREEN THEATER Eye-popping

features are shown on a five-and-a-half-story screen. $10.50 adults, $9.50 seniors, $8 ages 2-12.

Opens at 10 am daily; call for schedule and closing times. Eye-popping features are shown on a five-and-a-half-story screen. $10.50 adults, $9.50 seniors, $8 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for schedule and closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Place, 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleans-

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themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 THE HAUNTED MORTUARY Dare to visit a real

haunted house. Named one of “America’s Scariest Attractions” by the Travel Channel, this actively haunted mansion is just a streetcar ride away from the French Quarter. www.themortuary.net. 4800 Canal St., 504.483.2350. Map 1, D2 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street

shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MARKET Part concert hall/

coffee shop/community center, this multifaceted facility throws the spotlight on both the city’s jazz legends and rising stars. phnojm.org. 1436 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.371.5849. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.588.7608. Map 3, F4

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 69-71.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................47 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................49 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 51 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 53 Dance Clubs................................................................................................55 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 55

NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-Sa, 10 am-4 pm.

$5 adults, $4 seniors, $3 students; ages 6 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2

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ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

PIANO LOUNGE • PATIO • RESTAURANT

EAT, DRINK &

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic Church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org.

1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. www. stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 THE THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-

of-the-art movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining from its in-house Gusto Café and Bar. www.thetheatres.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake

Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with moonlight and twilight outings. Transportation available; prices vary. www.canoeandtrail.com.

504.233.0686.

CELEBRATION DISTILLATION TOURS The mak-

ers of Old New Orleans Rum offer tours of their facility—the oldest premium distillery continually operating in the United States—M-F (noon, 2 and 4 pm) and Sa-Su (2 and 4 pm). Get a taste of the distillation process...and of the company’s awardwinning spirits. Reservations recommended. Grab a cab. $10; 21+ only. www.oldneworleansrum.com.

2815 Frenchmen St., 504.945.9400. Map 1, E2 CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

group city and plantation tours, in addition to private excursions. Hotel pickups available; rates vary. www.celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SEGWAY TOURS Why walk when you can

glide? Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. Private excursions are also available. www.citysegwaytours.com. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative dou-

EST. 1933. LOCALLY OWNED WWW.PATOBRIENS.COM

ble-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited sightseeing for up to three days, plus three free walking tours. Adults, $39; children (12 and under), $10. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.636.1080 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

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and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 CRESCENT CITY BIKE TOURS These three-hour

guided bike rides explore the French Quarter and Tremé neighborhoods, along with Armstrong Park and the Mississippi riverfront. Tours are $49; rentals are $25/day. www.crescentcitybiketours.com. 626 N. Rampart St., 504.322.3455. Map 3, G3 DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours. The New Orleans Experience (“three centuries in five drinks in two hours”) is a sit-down affair at Broussard’s Empire Bar, while the Cocktail Tour roams the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn.com.

504.578.8280.

FRENCH QUARTER HISTORY & GHOSTBUSTER TOURSThis company offers a variety of experiences, from cemetery explorations to the Ultimate French Quarter History & Ghostbuster Tour, which

departs nightly at 7:30 pm. Group and customized excursions by request. Call for tour times and availability. www.frenchquarterhistorytours.com. 622 1/2 Pirates Alley, 504.561.8687. Map 3, G4

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$22. Departs daily at 10 am. True Crime Tour –$20. Departs Th-Su at 6 pm. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour

walking tours of the French Quarter are offered Tu-Su at 10 am and 1:30 pm. $20 adults, $15 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. www.friendsofthecabildo.org. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Isle of Orleans Tour –3.5 hrs. Plantation Life Tour –7.25 hrs.

Oak Alley Plantation Tour –4.5 hrs. Laura Plantation Tour –4.5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs.

Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.5 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. New Orleans’ Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs.

Big Easy Jazz Tour –2.5 hrs. New Orleans at Night Tour-3.25 hrs. For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs.

Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm

and 7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

JEAN LAFITTE HISTORICAL TOURS These National

Park Service walking tours focus on the history of the Mississippi River Delta and depart 9:30 am daily. Tickets are free, but there is a 25-person limit per tour; pick up tickets after 9 am (one pass issued per person). www.nps.gov/jela. 419 Decatur St., 504.589.2636. Map 3, F5 JEAN LAFITTE SWAMP TOURS Located just 25

minutes from downtown, this privately owned

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company with trained guides provides an up-close look at local flora and fauna. Daily swamp and airboat tours (10 am, noon, 2 and 4 pm) are offered.

Transportation from area hotels available. www. jeanlafitteswamptour.com. 6601 Leo Kerner Lafitte Pkwy., Marrero, 504.529.4567.

NEW ORLEANS FOOD AND FUN TOURS Custom-

ized to your areas of interest, these private walking tours accommodate up to four guests (ask for quotes for additional participants). Tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and CBD/Warehouse District are featured, in addition to a Vieux Carré Bar Crawl and Eat Dat Culinary Tour. Rates vary. www.foodandfuntours.com. 844.504.8687.

NEW ORLEANS LEGENDARY WALKING TOURS

Two-hour tours depart daily from 941 Decatur St.; meet guides 20 to 30 minutes prior to tour time. $25 adults, $15 children. French Quarter & Cemetery Tours –10 am and 1 pm. Ghost Tours –5:30 and 8 pm. www.neworleanslegendarywalkingtours. com. 941 Decatur St., 504.503.0199. Map 3, H5 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under.

Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz

cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

Museums & Exhibits

Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $9 seniors/students, $4 ages 6-12, under 6 free. www.bkhouse.org. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $8; $6 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas lived

BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display.

Admission $8; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. www. backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 BEAUREGARDKEYES HOUSE This beautifully

restored 1826 villa and garden was the home of

during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works. Two-hour tours of the 1852 property, conducted by the artist’s great-grand-niece, are offered daily at 10:15 am and 1:30, and by appointment. $15. Reservations required. www.degashouse.com. 2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu

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*Separate fee required. Visit website for details. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 51

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and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, I4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LE MUSÉE DE F.P.C. This museum explores the

history, culture and contributions of New Orleans’ free people of color. Spanning three centuries, exhibits include original manumission documents, 19th-century paintings and an 1864 right-to-vote petition. Open Sa-Su, noon-4:30 pm and by appointment. $10; docent-led tours $15 adults, $10 students/seniors. www.lemuseedefpc.com. 2236 Esplanade Ave., 504.914.5401. Map 1, D3 LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS Designated

a National Historic Landmark, this 1939 Classical Revival home is modeled after an English country estate, with eight acres of gardens to explore. Guided tours available daily. $10 adults, $9 seniors/military, $5 students/children, 2 and under free. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4:30 pm; Su, 1-5 pm. www.longuevue.com. 7 Bamboo Rd., 504.488.5488. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo, Map 3, G4)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History. 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St., Map 3, G5)– Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St., Map 3, G5)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave., Map 3, I5)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint.

Presbytère (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–Continuing: Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana and Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond. For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film Beyond All Boundaries, while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2016

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“Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $23 adults, $20 seniors, $14 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. Beyond All Boundaries: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM

Explore this misunderstood religion through the museum’s artifacts and exhibits. Readings are also offered. $5 adults, $4 college students/seniors, $3 children (free under 5). Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. www.voodoomuseum.com. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa, 10 am-5pm; Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $10 adults, $8 seniors/students, $6 children 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 9 am-6 pm; free. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, 10 am-5 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM The Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-4 pm. www.newcombartgallery. tulane.edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $6.25 children (under 5 free).

Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic

Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ first mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $7 adults, $5 children, free ages 6 and under. www.louisianalandmarks.org. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10; students/ seniors, $5; children under 12, free. Open Th-M, 11 am-5:30 pm www.southernfood.org. 1507 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3

Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

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aud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft

beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. www. theavenuepub.com. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3 BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-

school games (Jenga, skeeball, air hockey) are the draw...along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry?

Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. barcadianola.com.

601 Tchoupitoulas St, 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6 THE BULLDOG The patio is the way to go at

this British-themed pub, where the fountain is fashioned from dozens of old beer taps. Only fitting given the dog-friendly tavern’s 50-plus draft beers and additional 100 varieties offered by the bottle. www.draftfreak.com. 3236 Magazine St., 504.891.1516. Map 1, D4; 5135 Canal Blvd., 504.488.4191. Map 1, D2 COURT OF TWO SISTERS CARRIAGEWAY BAR Lo-

cated in a 19th-century French Quarter carriageway, this bar features an picturesque courtyard, fireplace and tons of ambiance. www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 COURTYARD BREWERY Beer lovers will fall for

the small batches with big taste at this Lower Garden District micro-micro brewery. A snack with your brew? Check the rotating schedule of food trucks. www.courtyardbrewing.com. 1020 Erato St.. Map 3, A7 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only

brewpub. Microbrews , nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5 CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed

in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4

LIVE. PLAY.

JAZZ EVERY NIGHT

JOIN US FOR HAPPY HOUR

MON-FRI | 5-7PM | $5 DRINK SPECIAL

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 NAPOLEON HOUSE Offered to the emperor if

he could escape exile (so the tale goes), this is a legendary French Quarter watering hole. An hour spent enjoying a muffuletta and a Pimm’s Cup in the courtyard is a quintessential N’awlins experience. www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a mas-

sive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www.

300 BOURBON STREET | NEW ORLEANS, LA ROYAL SONESTA NEW ORLEANS | 504.553.2299 SONESTA.COM/IMJAZZPLAYHOUSE

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nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 THE NOTE Housed in a revamped 19th-century

residence just off Bourbon Street, the Note is noteworthy for its classic cocktails...and cool back patio.

Open W-Su evenings. www.notenola.com. 817 St. Louis St., 504.304.3991. Map 3, F4 OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such

bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehouse.com. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 PATRICK’S BAR VIN Krewe of Cork founder and

all-around grape guy Patrick Van Hoorebeek’s namesake wine bar offers dozens of vintages by the glass and even more by the bottle. Cocktails and small plates, cheeses and charcuterie are also served. www.patricksbarvin.com. 730 Bienville St., 504.581.7300. Map 3, F4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

Where do you want to go?

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 SECOND LINE BREWING Housed in a repurposed

Find the best of the city

industrial space, this brewery brings hoppy goodness to the Mid-City neighborhood. Flagship ales, growlers and test brews, as well as a rotating cast of food trucks, can be found in its outdoor beer garden Th-Su. www.secondlinebrewing.com. 433 N Bernadotte St., 504.248.8979. Map 1, D2 SNEAKY PETE’SThis lower French Quarter water-

ing hole draws locals and visitors alike with its easygoing atmosphere and daily drink specials. www.sneakypetesnola.com. 135 Chartres St., 504.587.7701. Map 3, E4 WALKON’S Fittingly within walking distance of

the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. Looking for a rowdy atmosphere with selfserve taps in which to watch the game? You’ve found it. www.walk-ons.com. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3 WORLD OF BEER Five hundred beers in both

bottles and cans, 40 taps and a full menu of beerfocused fare make this Warehouse District tavern a great game-day destination, or for any fan of international brews. www.worldofbeer.com. 324 Julia Street, 504.299.3599. Map 3, C6

Dance Clubs BOURBON HEAT This massive party palace offers

two floors, a courtyard, patio bar and balcony, along with laser light shows and first-rate DJs. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 55

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www.711bourbonheat.com. 711 Bourbon St., 504.324.4669. Map 3, G4 THE BOURBON PUB & PARADE The city’s largest

gay bar and nightclub. Parade, the second-floor danceteria, features techno, house and classic disco. www.bourbonpub.com. 801 Bourbon St., 504.529.2107. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ LAFITTE IN EXILE Billing itself as America’s

oldest gay bar, Lafitte’s creates a party with high-energy music, hi-def plasma video screens and a great balcony on Bourbon Street. All are welcome. www.lafittes.com. 901 Bourbon St., 504.522.8397. Map 3, H4

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OZ This two-level disco has top-notch DJs,

2

lively female impersonators and a mostly gay and gay-friendly crowd up for wee-hours dancing. www.ozneworleans.com. 800 Bourbon St., 504.593.9491. Map 3, H4

Live Entertainment

LIVE LOCAL MUSIC 7 NIGHTS A WEEK

APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

dbaneworleans.com

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. Steamy windows face the nightlife bustle of Frenchmen Street, and the benches outside make ideal perches for people-watching. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5

618 FRENCHMEN ST.

NEW ORLEANS, LA 504.942.3731

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BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5

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legendary dive got a postKatrina makeover, Historic complete with an expanded N.O. system. But thankfully stage and new sound PIRATE’S PERE Collection ALLEY ANTOINE the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever.

ALLEY ROYAL Vieux Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to Carré Police burlesque. www.hiholounge.net. 2239 St. Claude Station Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4

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this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. The recently revamped venue now features live music Tu-Sa. www.hotelmonteleone. Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park com. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4

GOV. NICHOLLS

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IRVIN MAYFIELD’S JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish

spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. In addition to performances by Grammy-winning trumpeter Mayfield, the club features a nightly, rotating roster of top-tier local talent with no cover.

Retro burlesque Fridays at midnight; brass bands Saturdays. www.irvinmayfield.com. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz

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landmark recently received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene, with performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 ONE EYED JACKS Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-

burlesque: this French Quarter swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. www.oneeyedjacks.net. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4 PALM COURT JAZZ CAFÉ This excellent venue

for traditional live jazz is a favorite of locals in the know and well-informed visitors. Creole dining is also featured. www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com. 1204 Decatur St., 504.525.0200. Map 3, I5 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS One of downtown’s

hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. www.republicnola.com. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay

of Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Ellis Marsalis and Charmaine Neville are regulars. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

M

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5

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STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE MUSES This hip Frenchmen Street venue

offers a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates by chef Daniel Esses and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s features an

eclectic, always-entertaining lineup. Sunday afternoons feature a fais do-do with live Cajun music. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 57

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HOUMAS HOUSE Plantation and Gardens Houmas House Plantation and Gardens makes memories of legendary proportions. Tour the original plantation house built in the 1770s, stroll through 36 acres of breathtaking gardens, discover unique items at the gift shop, and dine at Houmas House’s exquisite restaurants. The Inn at Houmas House now offers 21 luxurious rooms for overnight stays. Plan your visit to the “Crown Jewel of Louisiana’s River Road” today!

Houmas House Plantation and Gardens 40136 Hwy 942 • Darrow, LA 70725 • 225-473-9380 • www.HoumasHouse.com

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MAGAZINE STREET STRETCHING SIX MILES parallel to the Mississippi River from Canal Street to Audubon Park and the zoo, Magazine Street slices through many different New Orleans neighborhoods. The Central Business District (CBD) and Warehouse Arts District, the Irish Channel, as well as the Lower Garden District, Garden District proper and Uptown—all are inter sected by Magazine. Along the way, you can find some of the city’s best clothing boutiques for children, women and men plus galleries, antique stores, restaurants, cafes, gourmet shops and more.

HISTORIC NEIGHBORHOODS

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Between parts of Magazine Street and St. Charles Avenue lies the Garden District and Uptown neighborhoods, perhaps the grandest of New Orleans’ neighborhoods. The Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne-style homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available.

National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Haunted History With 300 years of backstory to cull from, New Orleans is rife with ghost legends, especially along historic River Road, where nearly every plantation claims some form paranormal activity. At Oak Alley (shown), former owner Josephine Stewart is said to still be spotted in the lavender room … despite her death in 1972. Houmas House is home to a darkeyed, brunette-haired girl in a blue dress (and to a grove of ghost trees), while overnight guests at stately Nottoway share third-floor bedrooms with a woman in black and another in nightclothes.

But it’s the Myrtles Plantation, featured on everything from “Ghost Hunters” to “Unsolved Mysteries,” that touts the title of “one of America’s most haunted homes,” with more than a dozen spirits in residence.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $18 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African fold Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $20 adults, $7.50 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $4.50 ages 6-12. Group rates availby Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are able. www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, offered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the CIvil War; today only a handful remain.

©OAK ALLEY PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

66 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2016

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P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 66 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 66 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 67 Dining........................................................................................................... 68

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $18 adults, $16 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 67

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THE GUIDE

main house is composed of a series of connected buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The

restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are of- fered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldson- ville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

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THE GUIDE | MAPS

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THE GUIDE

MAP 3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 t S RH Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 in e OC a v A eOmni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 Sp v h A OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 c lin Ro FrankPL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 St PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 7 Street Direction SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 E4 French Quarter WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Haunt Hunters

Sports Fans

Romantics

Voodoo has had a hold on the Crescent City since the early 1700s and continues to today.

Brush up on vodun’s backstory, from its West African roots to its Catholic connection, at the (1) New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum, which is packed with authentic artifacts and ritualistic relics. Founded by two warlocks, (2) Hex: Old World Witchery has outposts in New Orleans and Salem. Real-deal practitioners provide psychic readings, while the Witches’ Altar of the Dead puts you in touch with the dearly departed. The undead are catered to at (3) Boutique du Vampyre with zombie jerky and blood-red energy drinks in transfusion-style pouches. Velvet capes and gothic jewelry keep the natty Nosferatu eternally fashionable; the living will want to invest in emergency stake kits.

A nod to the New Orleans Saints’ 2010 Super Bowl victory, (1) Champions Square, an outdoor gathering ground next to the Superdome, swarms with fans during home games.

Along with free live entertainment beginning three hours prior to kickoff, the multi-use space offers open-to-the-public pregame parties in its swanky Club XLIV and Opening Act sports bar. On the opposite side of the Dome is the (2) Smoothie King Center, the New Orleans Pelicans’ roost, where two NBA All-Star games have played out and another is due in February. Where to celebrate after the game? Even if you’re not a big sports buff, you’ll still stumble upon a good time on (3) Bourbon Street. Just remember, it’s not whether you win or lose … but how you handle your Hurricanes.

With couples canoodling on park benches and Andrew Jackson tipping his hat toward the residence of his rumored lover, (1) Jackson Square has been wooing romantics since 1851. Mule-drawn carriage tours line up in front, providing the perfect opportunity to snuggle together. Forget candlelight; it’s flickering gaslight that sets French Quarter visitors’ hearts aflutter. Stop by (2) Bevolo to see its signature lamps being made by hand, and take one with you to keep the love fire burning back home. A plantation country excursion takes you out of the city and into an entirley different era. Gorgeous (3) Houmas House Plantation is the setting for countless weddings. Roam the grounds with the roving peacocks, have a drink in the Turtle Bar, then tuck in for the night on site.

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ALL IMAGES ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©PHILIP GOULD; ©MARK WAGUESPACK; ©COSMO CONDINA/NEWORLEANSONLINE.COM; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; ©KERRI MCCAFFETY/HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS.

72 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2016

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