Where New Orleans March 2017

MARCH 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

®

FOOD FESTIVALS ST. PATRICK’S PARTIES STEVIE NICKS, JOHN WATERS, CHRIS ROCK AND MORE

RED ALERT The crawfish are coming!

The crawfish are coming!

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FOLLOW IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS It should have been impossible. Crossing the world’s widest ocean to answer an attack made by a powerful adversary.

Through hostile terrain and untold suffering, millions of Americans pushed past impossible to win the Pacific War. Follow in their footsteps on The Road to Tokyo, a new immersive experience at The National WWII Museum.

#1 Attraction in New Orleans #4 Museum in the United States

504.528.1944 | NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

Fresh Florida

STONE CRABS Now Available

Open 5 p.m. Daily • 322 Magazine Street • 504.522.7902 • chophousenola.com

ART & EY&S

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494

artandeyesnola.com

HAPPY ST PATTY’S DAY!

...how many shots can you see?... indy eyewear like no where else.

Theo Frames Handmade in Belgium

New Orleans CONTENTS

03.17

SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

the plan

the guide 20

09 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Janis Herbert Ritz-Carlton club concierge.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood.

Plus creative crawdad dishes.

10 Editor's Itinerary A 90-minute exploration of the Irish Channel neighborhood to make the most of your time in the city.

30

SHOPPING

XX

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus eco-conscious jewelry and pint-size crawfish pots.

12 Hot Dates Tennessee Williams Festival Reading can be fun, Carole King, Stevie Nicks, John Waters, Chris Rock and 26 other entertaining ideas to entertain.

37

XX

GALLERIES & ANTIQUES

A citywide gallery crawl.

Plus masked marvels and art in exile.

42

ENTERTAINMENT

XX

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and music clubs.

Plus Mardi Gras Indians and architecture tours.

50 XX

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus a Cajun country road trip.

Curated Crescent City itineraries for outdoors enthusiasts, LGBTQ travelers and music lovers.

MARCH 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

®

Crawfish season comes to a full boil in March. ©ALENA HAU-

FOOD FESTIVALS ST. PATRICK’S PARTIES STEVIE NICKS, JOHN WATERS, CHRIS ROCK AND MORE

RED ALERT

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E~NO-WM_170300_01_Cover.indd 4

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1/30/17 2:59 PM

Edible altars, five food fests and one Tough Mudder.

17 Must-See Exhibits

An overview of museum mountings.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus picture-perfect plantation weddings.

Where to get your Irish on, and a toast to the city's burgeoning brewery scene.

16 Out + About CONNECT WITH US

58 XX

14 On the Go

The crawfish are coming!

The crawfish are coming!

RYLIK/SHUTTERSTOCK, INC.

14

Talking (and eating) Italian, hot restaurant dish and pasta you can pack in your suitcase.

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 61-63

(LEFT) ©JOAN MARCUS; (CENTER) ©SHAWN FINK

64 Where Inside: New Orleans Your Way

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The Shops at Canal Place

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Janis Herbert Club Concierge at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel

Q: Are you a crawfish fan?

A: My goodness, yes. On the weekends we have a wonderful chef who boils crawfish in the courtyard of the Ritz-Carlton for our quests and shows them how to peel the crawfish and suck them out of the shell. You really don’t have to peel them; if you just suck on the crawfish tail and push from the bottom, it comes right out. Now you know I’m a local.

Q: There are a number of food festivals taking place this month. Which are you most hungry for?

A: The Crab Festival. Crabs are tougher to shell than crawfish, but once you get to that succulent, sweet meat, it’s worth all the effort you put into it. It's the most diverse food; put crab on anything and it tastes wonderful.

Q: Where would you send guests for a St. Patrick’s Day Irish coffee?

A: The Davenport Lounge (p. 49) in the Ritz-Carlton, of course.

(TOP) ©;SHAWN FINK (BOTTOM) ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

Q: Which museum do you most often recommend?

A: The National WWII Museum (p. 46). To pay tribute to the men and women who served and gave the ultimate, I could do no less than refer it to visitors.

Q: What’s your favorite thing about springtime in New Orleans?

A: The heat, believe it or not. I'm sure my fellow citizens wouldn't agree, but I think the heat in this city is so therapeutic. It’s what makes us slow down, smell the roses and enjoy each other.

National WWII Museum

9

EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY NEWS TO TRAVEL BY

PIANO LOUNGE • PATIO • RESTAURANT

EAT, DRINK &

The Essential New Orleans Spring is in the air … along with the scent of backyard crawfish boils. You’ll catch a whiff of New Orleans’ mudbug love all over the city this month, from restaurant menus to St. Patrick’s parties. And what goes better with spicy crawfish than freshbrewed beer? Grab one, and march with us!

90 MINUTES IN

The Irish Channel Though its name may suggest otherwise, the Irish Channel neighborhood has been a melting pot of cultures since the early 19th century.

Bordered by Magazine, Tchoupitoulas, Jackson and Delachaise streets, the area is largely devoted to shipping facilities and simple shotgun houses that reflect its working-class origins, though you’ll see a variety of architectural influences (such as the Egyptian Revival former courthouse at 2219 Rousseau St.). Highlights include retail-packed Magazine Street, NOLA Brewing and Parasol’s, the epicenter of St. Patrick’s celebrations. Two massive churches, St. Alphonsus and St. Mary’s Assumption, erected out of one-upmanship between the Irish and Germans, anchor the neighborhood and are popular pilgrimage destinations.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

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Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

WHERE CALENDAR MARCH

For more information: wheretraveler.com

Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com

TOP STOPS

HOT

24 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

CIVIC THEATER Mar. 18: Conor Oberst. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865

DATES

March 22-26

"America has only three cities,” Tennessee Williams famously once quipped. “New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland.” So it’s only fitting that writers, editors and industry professionals from around the nation gather in the city the “A Streetcar Named Desire” playwright called his “spiritual home” each March to take part in the annual Tennessee Williams/New Orleans Literary Festival. In addition to panels, discussions and readings, the fun affair features productions of Williams’ works (“Sweet Bird of Youth,” “The Milk Train Doesn’t Stop Here Anymore”), food and music events and the can’t-miss Stanley and Stella Shouting Contest at Jackson Square. For a full lineup of participants and happenings, visit tennesseewilliams.net.

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

BEAUTIFUL: THE CAROLE KING MUSICAL > MARCH 712 This traveling Tony-winning production traces the 1970s music icon’s ascent from littleknown singer/songwriter to full-on megastar.

Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

STARS OF AMERICAN BALLET ENCORE! > MARCH 18 New York City Ballet principal dancer Daniel Ulbricht directs an ensemble of top-tier talent culled from his and other leading companies from around the U.S. Mahalia Jackson Theater, 801 N. Rampart St., 800.745.3000

BUKU MUSIC + ART PROJECT > MARCH 1011 Close to 70 EDM, alt and hip-hop acts perform on six separate stages spread in and around massive Mardi Gras World. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 800.745.3000; thebukuproject.com

JOHN WATERS > MARCH 18 “The Pope of Trash," “The Sultan of Sleaze,” “The Godfather of Gross”—filmmaker/author/artist Waters is all that and then some. See for yourself at his new show, “This Filthy World: Filthier & Dirtier.” Joy Theater, 1200 Canal St., 800.745.3000

STEVIE NICKS > MARCH 15 Break out that gypsy shawl and give it a twirl.

The “Gold Dust Woman” pulls into town on her “24 Karat Gold” tour, with Chrissie Hynde

CHRIS ROCK > MARCH 2527 Something funny is going on at the Saenger Theatre. Catch the standout stand-up on his “Total Blackout” tour. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

1

"Beautiful"

2

Buku Project

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

and the Pretenders in tow. Smoothie King Center, 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

3

12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

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5

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ORPHEUM THEATER Mar. 3: Southern Soul Assembly; Mar. 7: Justin Hayward; Mar. 14: Ryan Adams; Mar. 31: The Charlie Daniels Band. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870 SAENGER THEATRE Mar. 3: Norah Jones; Mar. 15: “Experience Hendrix”; Mar. 16: Bryan Ferry; Mar. 18: Bill Mahr; Mar. 21: Chicago; Mar. 22: “Brain Candy Live!”; Mar. 24: “Impractical Jokers”; Mar. 29: Brian Wilson; Mar. 30: The Avett Brothers. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000; sanegernola.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Mar. 2: Twenty One Pilots and Jon Bellion; Mar. 4: Harlem Globetrotters; Mar. 18: Winter Jam 2017; Mar. 25: Charlie Wilson and Fantasia. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 UNO LAKEFRONT ARENA Mar. 3: The Lumineers.

6801 Franklin Ave., 800.745.3000

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER) ©JOAN MARCUS; (BOTTOM) ©BUKU MUSIC + ART PROJECT

TENNESSEE WILLIAMS FESTIVAL:

JOY THEATER Mar. 3: Circa Survive; Mar. 8: Jimmy Eat World; Mar. 21: William Singe and Alex Aiono; Mar. 23: Randy & Mr. Lahey of “Trailer Park Boys”; Mar. 24: Flogging Molly. 1200 Canal St., 800.745.3000

IT’S AUCTION SEASON! ‘Buy it now’ or bid on exceptional fine art Stop in today for your free auction catalog We’re thrilled to announce the opening of our Spring 2017 Auction Season. Original paintings, stunning bronze sculpture, limited edition graphics and much more.

Warhol, Picasso, Murakami, Miró, Mas, Lalonde, Kostabi, Kondakova, Hofmann, Haring, Hallam, Fressinier, Francis, Erté, Deyber, Dalí, Chagall, Bertho + many others.

LIVE ART AUCTION Lot 44, Andy Warhol, Chanel (#354, Ads)

Sunday, March 26, 2:00 pm (preview 12:30 pm)

Lot 367, Erté, Fire Dancer

Westin New Orleans Canal Place, 100 Rue Iberville SAVE THE DATE!

Meet artist Mark Kostabi in-person Saturday, April 29, 6–8 pm

Martin•Lawrence Galleries 433 Royal Street, New Orleans (In the heart of the French Quarter) 504.299.9055 M ARTIN L AWR ENCE . COM

433 ROYA L@ M ARTIN L AWR ENCE . COM Lot 115, Mark Kostabi, Dreaming in Gold

Lot 60, Takashi Murakami, Nothing Eternal

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Be sure to visit the Golf Club at Audubon Park for world-class golf and dining.

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*Separate fee required. Visit website for details.

where now New Orleans

Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Day Parade 14 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

The city’s top events, attractions, entertainment, dining and more

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ON THE GO

Tracey’s

Green Day

What’s St. Patrick’s Day without beer?

You’ll find plenty brewed right here in New Orleans.

An Irish-eyed guide to St. Patrick’s Day fun.

BY NORA MCGUNNIGLE

I

(TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; (LEFT, CENTER AND BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK; (OPENING PAGE) ©SHAWN FINK

t’s no surprise that a partyloving city like New Orleans would have all sorts of fun on St. Patrick’s Day. The Irish have been a significant part of Crescent City culture since the early 19th century, and were instrumental in building much of New Orleans’ infrastructure. Although most Irish immigrants arrived following the Great Famine of 1845, the city’s first St. Patrick’s Day celebration was in 1806.

From Pat O’Brien’s (p.

48) in the French Quarter

to the Irish House (p. 27) in the Lower Garden District, you’ll find festivities taking place in pretty much every bar citywide on March 17.

Head to the Irish Channel neighborhood early in the day for the giant block parties at Tracey’s (2604 Magazine St., 504.897.5413) and Parasol’s (2533 Constance St., 504.302.1543). Then work your way back to the Quarter to catch the Downtown Irish Club Parade, which kicks off at 6 pm from Bud Rip’s (900 Piety St., 504.945.5762) in the Bywater neighborhood. Similar to a second line, the parade stops at several different bars along the way before hitting Bourbon Street.

Not here for St. Patrick’s Day? Not to worry. There are still lots of parades and parties

BIG EASY BREWERIES

before—and after—to enjoy.

Tracey’s and Parasol’s draw big crowds the Saturday before the big day (March 11), when the Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Day Parade rolls on Magazine Street, between Napoleon and Jackson streets.

It’s a raucous time, with float riders tossing produce (cabbage, potatoes, carrots) to the crowds, while members of Irish-American walking clubs, like the Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Day Club and the Emerald Society of New Orleans, parade in kilts, trading paper flowers for kisses.

That clamor in the Quarter on March 3? That’s the Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Day Club’s practice march.

Starting at 11 am at Jackson Square, the spirited group stops in at traditional Irish bars in the neighborhood, including Fahy’s Irish Pub, Finnegan’s Easy Irish Pub and Ryan’s Irish Pub. Jim Monaghan’s St. Patrick’s Parade rolls the following week (March 10 at 6 pm) from Molly’s at the Market (p. 48). The

annual procession begins and ends at the bar, and features marching groups and riders in mule-drawn carriages.

St. Patrick’s Day and the Italian celebration of St. Joseph’s Day overlap, which is why you’ll spot tuxedo-attired gentlemen engaging French Quarter crowds March 18 during the Italian-American St. Joseph’s Parade. The two nationalities meet in nearby Metairie March 19 for the Louisiana Irish-Italian Parade, while the St. Bernard Irish Italian Islenos Parade in neighboring Chalmette triples the fun April 1 with 43 floats, 1,500 riders and 300,000 pounds of produce.

Missing St. Patrick’s season altogether? There are plenty of ways to get your Irish on year-round. Traditional-yetelevated pub fare is found at the Irish House; the Erin Rose (811 Conti St., 504.522.3573) is all about frozen Irish coffee; and Finn McCool’s (p. 47) is the place to catch a rugby game over a pint of Guinness.

The Irish Cultural Museum (933 Conti St., 504.481.8593) provides weekly live entertainment, along with educational exhibits. And be sure check out St. Alphonsus Church (2030 Constance St., 504.522.6748), which has served as a community gathering ground and an important part of Irish history in New Orleans since the 1840s.

Enjoy an Irish Channel Stout, named for the neighborhood NOLA Brewing (p. 48) calls home, and grab some great barbecue at the same time. Just up the road, Urban South Brewing (p. 48) offers a family friendly tasting room with a wide variety of beer, while Courtyard Brewery (p. 47), a few blocks from the National WWII Museum, brews beer that can’t be found anywhere else in the city. The beer garden at Second Line Brewing (p. 48) has inspired many fun beer styles, and the IPA and Kristalweizen beers at Wayward Owl (3940 Thalia St., 504.827.1646) are perfect after a long day on the town.

In the French Quarter, German-focused brewpub Crescent City Brewhouse (p. 47) now has a regular IPA on draft, alongside pilsner and schwarzbier. In the Warehouse District, Gordon Biersch (p.

21) is a great place for a freshly brewed glass of suds near Harrah’s Casino.

Keep an eye out for nanobrewery Brieux Carré (2115 Decatur St.) which is scheduled to open in the Marigny this month, just off of Frenchmen Street.

Parleaux Beer Lab (4224 Royal St.), a Bywater neighborhood brewery with small batches of experimental beers and a huge beer garden, is also slated to bow in March. Check social media to ensure these two breweries are open before heading out, though.

Crescent City Brewhouse

15

Orleans Food Festing Five food-focused fetes to sink your teeth into.

TOP TACO FESTIVAL This new event pairs top-notch tacos by more than 40 local restaurants (Johnny Sanchez, Juan’s Flying Burrito, Mizado) with top-shelf tequila cocktails March 23 at Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river). toptaconola.com NEW ORLEANS BOURBON FESTIVAL By day it may seem just another scholarly symposium with industry insiders discussing the booze biz. But it’s the nightly tastings of 50-plus bourbons and local cuisine that turn this March 24-25 gathering into a full-fledged party. The Sugar Mill, 1201 Convention Center Blvd.; neworelansbourbonfestival.com

OUT+ABOUT

Altared State Despite its name and Spanish-influenced architecture, the French Quarter was known as “Little Italy” during the late 19th century, due to its large Sicilian population. Each March the city celebrates its Italian heritage by erecting St. Joseph altars in honor of the patron saint Sicilians prayed to during the Middle Ages to stave off famine. Visit one of New Orleans’ many Catholic churches on St. Joseph Day (March 19)—from St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square to St. Alphonsus in the Irish Channel—and you’ll see massive tiered tributes laden with food offerings prepared by parishioners. But altars aren’t just confined to religious spaces. You’ll also spot them at the International House Hotel (March 13-20; p. 63), the Beauregard-Keyes House (March 16-18; p. 45) and Avo (March 18; p. 28), among other locations.

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

BLOODY MARY FESTIVAL The brunch classic is reimagined by a dozen of the city’s top restaurants and bars (Bar Tonique, Commander’s Palace, Sylvain) March 26 beginning at noon. Howlin’ Wolf, 907 S. Peters St.; thebloodymaryfest.com/ festival_event_new-orleans

TREMÉ CRAB FESTIVAL Seafood lovers get their fill March 30-April 1 during this ticketed fundraiser for the free Jazz in the Park concert series. Crab cakes, crabmeat ravioli, crab mac ’n’ cheese—oh, yeah, and performances by jazz greats Roy Ayers and Michael Franks.

Armstrong Park, N. Rampart and St. Ann streets; pufap.org HOGS FOR THE CAUSE The wildly popular pork-a-thon, with more than 100 regional barbecue teams competing for top honors, now doubles as a major music event with 22 bands performing on three stages March 31-April 1. UNO Lakefront Arena Grounds, 6801 Franklin Ave; hogsforthecause.org

NBA All-Star Weekend Tremé Crab Fest

GOOD FILTHY FUN Up for a challenge? The wildly popular Tough Mudder competition pulls into town March 18-19, turning NOLA Motorsports Park (p. 43) into a 10-mile, adrenaline-amped obstacle course.

More a measure of endurance than speed, the team-building tournament features more than 20 military-style exercises that test both participants’ physical strength and mental agility, such as the “Artic Enema,” a dumpster dive into 10 tons of ice water. Half (five miles/13 obstacles) and Mini Mudder (one mile/ kid-friendly) courses are also offered … along with spectator seats for those who would rather watch than wallow around in 500,000 gallons of mud and muck. For tickets and details, visit toughmudder.

Tough Mudder

com/events/2017-new-orleans.

(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER) ©DAVDEKA/SHUTTERSTOCK, INC.; (BOTTOM) ©MILAN TOMAZIN/SHUTTERSTOCK, INC.

WHERE NOW New

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; ©NOMA; ©CAC; ©NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM; NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM; ©OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

“A Life of Seduction”

“About to Happen”

Caption 7 pt, Myriad Pro Semi-

“Clarence John Laughlin and His Contemporaries”

“Waiting on Prime-Time Star”

MUST-SEE EXHIBITS

The Art of the City What’s new on the walls at area museums.

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER About to Happen, which marks the first major U.S. exhibition of Chilean-born installation artist Cecilia Vicuña, is coupled with Improvisational Gestures, the first museum showing of Colorado-based Senga Nengudi’s entire “R.S.V.P.” sculpture series. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION Clarence John Laughlin and His Contemporaries: A Picture and a Thousand Words focuses on the photography pioneer’s correspondence with fellow artists, while Goods of Every Description: Shopping in New Orleans, 1825-1925 explores the city’s evolution as a global trade center. 410 Chartres St.; 533 Royal St.; 504.523.4662 NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM Nazi propaganda posters are examined in State of Deception, a powerful traveling exhibition from the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum that continues through “Toruk” June. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART A Life of Seduction offers insight into Venetian life and culture during the 1700s through gondola models, paintings by Canaletto, Guardi and others, ornate Carnival masks and costumes, ceremonial robes and wigs, opulent furnishings and rare glass objects. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM Waiting on Prime-Time Star puts the spotlight on mixed-media artist Mickalene Thomas, known for her pop-influenced portraits of powerful women (Michelle Obama, Solange Knowles). More than 40 works are featured. 55 Newcomb Pl., 504.865.5328 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The iconic architectural paintings of local artist James Michalopoulos figure prominently in his 36-year-career overview, Waltzing the Muse.

A Place in Time Part II captures Southern photography from the 1940s through today.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650

“State of Deception”

“Waltzing the Muse”

17

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed.

Cochon Butcher FOOD+DRINK

Sicily South I was recently asked about Italian food in New Orleans: “When did Italians come here? What’s the story with the muffuletta sandwich? Why is the red sauce here so sweet?” Time for a piccolo (little) primer on New Orleans Italian cuisine and St. Joseph’s Day, an Italian/ Creole tradition that takes place each March.

A great number of Sicilians settled here during the 1800s.

Many worked on the docks, sold produce at the French Market or opened corner-store markets and cafés. In the early 1900s came businesses like Taormina’s, a pasta factory/grocery/restaurant in the building that is now Muriel’s (p. 25), Central Grocery (p.

24) and many, many more.

The most logical explanation for the genesis of the muffuletta suggests Italian workers on break from the docks cobbled together bits of this (meats and cheeses) and that (olive salad and bread) to form a meal, of sorts. As for style, the ongoing debate is whether to eat a muffuletta hot or cold. Decide for yourself at Central Grocery (cold), Napoleon House (warm; p. 25), Stein’s (cold; p. 28) and Cochon Butcher (warm; p. 20).

New Orleans’ red sauce—commonly called “red gravy”—is indeed sweet, and there are a large

number of restaurants where sweet sauce is signature. To taste, check out the spinach-stuffed cannelloni at Vincent’s (p. 29) or Mandina’s (p. 28) Italian sausage and spaghetti. For a brighter, more tart red sauce, there’s Italian Barrel (p. 25) for family-recipe lasagna, the handmade pasta and meatballs at Red Gravy (p. 21) or the “Ricotta Gnocchi Bolognese” at Altamura (p. 27).

St. Joseph’s Day, a Catholic food-centric tradition honoring the patron saint of famine, is celebrated with private and public altars adorned with pastas, casseroles, cakes and baked goods offered in exchange for monetary donation. Retail and travel-friendly, 100-plus year-old Brocato’s (p. 28) has fresh-baked and packaged St. Joseph’s cookies.

New Orleans Italian cuisine is a unique feast all it’s own. Mangia, mangia. Nothing could be sweeter. —Lorin Gaudin

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MAYPOP Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho, p.

28) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of fresh, warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa; or go spicy with vindaloo chicken with crispy sticky rice cubes and cooling pickled mirliton. Desserts are intense: Get the popcorncrusted, chai-spiced donuts with coffee ice cream. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345

fries with aioli; or the smokey double-patty burger on house brioche. Cocktails are excellent; desserts are divine. 1111 Gravier St., 504.518.5500 BYWATER BAKERY Beloved baker Chaya Conrad now has her own space in the Bywater neighborhood. Along with pastries and cakes, the menu offers straightforward sandwiches, both closed and open-faced (ham, turkey, salmon, avocado, etc.), soups, Mason jar salads and simply the best walking around food: “Breakfast Go-Cups.” Get the boudin hash-and-egg or the shrimp and grits. 3624 Dauphine St., 504.336.3336 —LG

PETIT LION Chef Phillip Lopez (Root/Square Root, p. 27) partnered with the new Troubadour Hotel on this sleek, modern space. Pale colors and pops of metal make a bright canvas for highlighting the upscale bistro food. Dive into a big bucket of mussels adrift in a soft, coconutand-French curry broth; crispy

Petit Lion

LOUISIANA PURCHASE Chef Daniel Esses, one of the owners of Three Muses (p. 28), a popular dining and live-music venue, noticed his handmade pasta dishes were flying off the menu, and it sparked an idea.

Capitalizing on a market niche, he invested in large-scale pastamaking equipment and applied to sell his pastas and sauces under the name Esses Foods. Now his products, in a variety of shapes (spirals, linguini, shells) and flavors (squid ink, rye, saffron), along with sauces (vodka, marinara, tomato-basil) and some incredible prepared dishes (ravioli, vegetable lasagna, mac ’n’ cheese), have landed on local store shelves. You’ll find them at Dryades Public Market (p. 22) and Whole Foods (p. 34), or see what’s on the menu at Three Muses. —LG

Esses Foods

(TOP) ©COCHON BUTCHER; (CENTER) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©GOOD EGGS

WHERE NOW New

the guide Dining March Bugging Out Is In Crawfish season comes to a full boil this month with the mighty mudbug taking its annual star turn on restaurant menus.

Locals load up on crawdads fresh from the pot at Melba’s (p. 29) and Rouses (p. 33), which served up more than 50,000 pounds of them at last year’s French Quarter Fest, where Muriel’s (p. 25, shown) crawfishand-goat cheese crepes are always a crowd pleaser. Boiled beauties are also devoured at Deanie’s (p. 24), along with fried crawfish tails, etouffée and bisque. Restaurant R’evolution (p. 26) elevates humble mudbugs to fine-dining status with its crawfish-stuffed redfish Napoleon, as does Arnaud’s (p. 23), where they’re baked in a brandy-infused tomato sauce, while Commander’s Palace (p. 27) takes the standard croque madame sandwich to a whole new level with crawfish, escargot and crawfishboiled mozzarella and Gruyeré.

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BALISE French. Chef Justin Devillier of La Petite

Grocery and “Top Chef” fame now has a second space in a beautifully restored 1830s building with cool art, smart cocktails and a small menu with depth. Must-haves include the fried smoked oysters and chicken and ricotta dumplings. $$ L (Tu-F), D (M-Su); Sa-Su brunch. www.balisenola.com. 640 Carondelet St., 504.459.4449. Map 3, C5 BORGNE Seafood. At this seafood-centric John

Besh restaurant (helmed by mega-talented chef Brian Landry), fantastic apps (such as duck-andjalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with easy-going sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. $$ L, D (daily). www.borgnerestaurant.

20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

com. 601 Loyola Ave. (in the Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504.613.3860. Map 3, C3 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Bider-

man’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Handground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; house-made mayo and pickles; fresh-baked buns. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St.,

504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Luicia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com.

535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA Italian. This hot spot is counted among

celebrated local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-of-the-norm antipasta, handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship

sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened

©MURIEL’S JACKKSON SQUARE

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THE GUIDE

in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (daily). www.emerils.com.

800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 GORDON BIERSCH Brewhouse. This national chain

of brewpubs features a glassed-in working brewery and a full menu: garlic fries, hearty entrées, woodfired pizzas and some seriously good stir-fry dishes.

L, D (daily). www.gordonbiersch.com. 200 Poydras St., 504.552.2739. Map 3, D6 HERBSAINT French. The entrées at James Beard

Award-winning chef Donald Link’s comfy, fine-

dining spot range from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com. 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chefs (and old friends) John Besh and Aarón Sánchez teamed to create this hip eatery, which puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant. com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4

JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual eatery,

snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some surprising element that lingers long after the meal. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Sa-Su, brunch. www.josephineestelle.com.

600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands. The focus here is on award-winning chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap, live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT AUGUST French. In New Orleans,

chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a vision. The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style with Gulf Coast ingredients. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St.

James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-theline delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. $ L (M-Su), D (M-Sa). www.stjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4 TOMMY G’S PIZZERIA & BAR Italian. Convenient

to the Convention Center, this casual spot serves subs, a variety of pasta entrees, house-made lasagna, calzones and pizza whole or by the slice. $ L, D, (daily). www.tommygspizzeria.com. 901 Convention Center Blvd., 504.561.8881. Map 3, C8 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and lamb pot pie. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

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Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................20

Central City..................................................................................................22 French Quarter........................................................................................22 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 27 Marigny/Bywater............................................................................ .......28 Mid-City..........................................................................................................28 Uptown..........................................................................................................28 Other Locations......................................................................................29

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Pit master Rob

Bechtold turns out stellar barbecue and out-ofthe-norm sides at his sprawling smokehouse.

Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L (Th-M). www.centralcitybbq. com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 DRYADES PUBLIC MARKET Eclectic. With its local

vendors and crystal chandeliers, this Central City newcomer merges down-home with up-market.

The soaring space serves as both a grocery/gathering spot for area residents and a destination for visitors hungry for a taste of the contemporary Crescent City. 1307 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.333.6100. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell.

22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

Oyster Happy Hour M-F 3-6PM in our Oyster Bar.

DINING

Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’ boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the Gulf shrimp and country ham with butterbeans and sweet potatoes.

$$$ D (W-Su); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola. com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4

ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Bayona continues its reign

as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (M-Su). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Recently renovated,

Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Neal Swindler serves up modern Creole cuisine (crab croquettes with mango glaze), along with Old World classics. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.broussards. com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana. Located in a gorgeous

French Quarter courtyard and carriage house, this is the perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle, satsuma-pepper glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L (W-Su), D (W-Su); Sa-Su brunch. A quick-service offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 412-8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and

delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restau-

rant provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

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clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as jerk chicken and plantain dumplings. $$ L (F), D (nightly); brunch, Sa-Su. www.caneandtablenola. com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L, D (Daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 CLOVER GRILL American. The prospect of big juicy

burgers, overstuffed omelets and a cheeky version of retro 1950s ambiance draws all walks of life to this Bourbon Street institution at all hours. The theatrics on both sides of the counter are often worthy of a Fellini film. $ Open 24h. www.clovergrill.com.

900 Bourbon St., 504.598.1010. Map 3, H4 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The

French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the baby back ribs, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and fresh grilled redfish with soft-shell crab. Live jazz nightly (no cover). $$ L, D (daily). www.crescentcitybrewhouse. com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Live Jazz • Real Food • Serious Beer 527 Decatur St. • 504.522.0571 www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com

Live Jazz Nightly (no cover)

DEANIE’S Seafood. For years, locals have driven to

the lakefront Deanie’s for groaning boards of freshly fried seafood and grilled fish. Its French Quarter location offers the same great menu in posher surroundings, with oodles of cold shrimp and topquality lump crabmeat. $$ L, D (daily). www.deanies.com. 841 Iberville St., 504.581.1316. Map 3, E4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue ribeye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop featuring superior quality dry-aged meats. The hunger-inducing menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ D (nightly), L (F-Su). www.dorismetropolitan.com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has

taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017 104853-XX-57.indd 1

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duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. Live music four nights a week. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe. com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ Dauphine St.: B, L (W-M); Conti St.: L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys.com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole. Overlooking

Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Erik Veney’s contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfishand-goat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (Daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro is a perennial hot spot. The menu is filled with Emeril creations such as Louisiana crab cakes with Creole tartar sauce, pork cheek boudin balls with tomato-bacon jam and a grilled double-cut pork chop with pecan-glazed sweet potatoes. $$ L (Th-M), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4

Where do you want to go?

REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com.

309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www. revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. Pastry chef extraordi-

naire Tariq Hanna’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for afternoon tea, a glass of wine and daily protein selections that can be ordered as an app or main course.

Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Brunch, D (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com.

622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance

meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the Korean beef po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily).

26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

Find the best of the city

DINING

www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ALTAMURA Italian. An antebellum mansion with

mid-century modern decor and northeastern American Italian food? Yes, and the combination is molto bene. Try the clams casino, airy gnudi, killer pasta puttanesca and fork-tender osso bucco. $$$ D (nightly). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D3 COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 IRISH HOUSE International. Chef Matt Murphy’s

gastro pub may be housed in a former Mexican eatery, but the focus now is solidly Irish. Lunch is kicked up with a slew of stews and sandwiches.

Dinner is a wee more up-market: think braised lamb shanks in apple-brandy broth over grits. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.theirishhouseneworleans.com.

1432 St. Charles Ave., 504.595.6755. Map 1, D3 JUAN’S FLYING BURRITO Mexican. Can a Mexican

joint be both funky and family friendly? Uh, yes, if it’s called Juan’s, where the “Gutter Punk” burrito will turn you into a regular customer. $ L, D (daily). www.juansflyingburrito.com. 2018 Magazine St., 504.569.0000. Map 1, D4; 515 Baronne St., 504.529.5825. Map 3, C4; 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.9950. Map 1, D3 MIYAKO SUSHI BAR & HIBACHI Japanese. Hibachis

are the draw here, but sushi lovers will be just as happy. Dexterous hibachi chefs wow guests, preparing lobster, prime rib, scallops and more.

Sushi, sashimi and tempura are also on the menu. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.miyakonola.com. 1403 St. Charles Ave., 504.410.9997. Map 1, D3 ROOT/SQUARE ROOT Contemporary. Two hip

restaurants in one. Upstairs the focus is on chef Phillip Lopez’s contemporary twists on culinary w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

standards and creative charcuterie. Downstairs centers around 16 seats flanking an open kitchen and Lopez’s multi-course tasting menu (online reservations only). $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.squarerootnola. com. 1800 Magazine St., 504.309.7800. Map 1, D4 STEIN’S MARKET & DELI Deli. A real-deal Jewish

deli in New Orleans? Finally! Philadelphia native Dan Stein brings a taste of the Northeast to the Deep South with authentic Reubens on rye, knishes, matzo ball soup and crusty Davidovich bagels. $ B, L, D (Tu-Su). www.steinsdeli.net. 2207 Magazine St., 504.527.0771. Map 1, D3 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates and musthave macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre. com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti. St., 504.708.4366. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/

bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 THE JOINT Barbecue. This Bywater fave is slim on

frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides.

Featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.alwayssmokin.com.

701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3 PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian. New York-style pies

with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.pizzadelcious.com. 617 Piety St.,, 504.676.8482. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com.

2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3 THREE MUSES Eclectic. This Frenchmen Street hot

spot offers a clubby vibe, live music, smart cocktails and amazing eats. Raves are drawn for the chef Daniel Esses’ stellar preparations of small plateportioned lamb sliders, feta fries and a stunning rendition of braised pork belly atop a crisp scallion pancake. $ D (W-M). www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5

Mid-City ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery. This century-old ice

cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with glass-topped tables, slow-turning ceiling fans and some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo.

28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

$ Open Tu-Su. www.angelobrocatoicecream.com.

214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.1465. Map 1, D2 BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and

Philip Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts.. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www. blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

DOOKY CHASE Creole. One of the oldest African-

American restaurants in the nation. Chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” has built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as her seemingly simple red beans and rice. $$ L (TuF), D (F). www.dookychaserestaurant.com. 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3 MANDINA’S Italian. This local treasure, estab-

lished in 1932, still hums with full-flavored fried trout almandine, veal Parmesan, golden-brown shrimp, tender pork chops and perhaps the best roast beef po’ boy in the Gulf South. $$ L, D (daily). www.mandinasrestaurant.com. 3800 Canal St., 504.482.9179. Map 1, D2 MIZADO COCINA Mexican. Mexico meets Latin

America on the menu at this off-the-beaten-path restaurant. Carrot-and-ginger margaritas, fresh guacamole, Peruvian-style ceviches and lobster tacos make Mizado well worth seeking out. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.mizadococina.com. 5080 Pontchartrain Blvd., 504.885.5555. Map 1, D2 MOPHO Vietnamese. Chef Mike Gulotta rocks

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available Napoleon Ave.

modern Vietnamese-inspired dishes at his 895-4877 • 1838 naughty-named restaurant near the Canal streetcar line. The sweet-and-spicy chicken wings and pepper jelly-glazed clams are must-haves. $$ L, D (daily). www.mophonola.com. 514 City Park Ave., 504.482.6845. Map 1, D2 NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran

restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-gen-

eration Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with eggplant, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragou. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great off-the-

beaten-path place? You’ve found it. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’ boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L, D (TuSa). www.boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 BRIGTSEN’S Creole. A protegé of Paul Prud-

homme, chef Frank Brigtsen’s food is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

ingredients. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.brigtsens.com. 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3 CAMELLIA GRILL American. Say burger in New Or-

leans, and Camellia Grill instantly comes to mind.

Why? Juicy cheeseburgers, crispy fries and savory chili at one of the most coveted lunch (and dinner) counters in the city—that’s why. $ B, L, D (daily).

626 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.309.2679. Map 1, C3; 540 Chartres St., 504.522.1800. Map 3, G4 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beauti-

ful deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Ben Thibodeaux’s casual coastal cuisine. Start with the scallop crudo or crab-and-avocado toast, before moving on to the seared Gulf fish. $$ B (F-Su), D (nightly). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate French

bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE American. A New Orleans land-

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa).

1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

Israel at this modern Mediterranean eatery from chef Alon Shaya of restaurant Domenica fame.

Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant. com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 VINCENT’S Italian. The atmosphere at this Sicilian

family-run restaurant is as authentic as its traditional Italian fare. Start with an eggplant “sandwich” before moving on to the veal-and-spinach cannelloni, osso buco and seafood-stuffed pork chop. $$ www.vincentsitaliancuisine.com. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su).

7813 St. Charles Ave., 504.866.9313. Map 1, C4

Other Locations DONG PHUONG Vietnamese. The menu at this

“Little Vietnam” restaurant is crammed with pho, noodle dishes and a variety of rice plates. But it’s the adjacent bakery that draws foodies from far and wide for what the New York Times has called the most authentic banh mi bread in the U.S. $ Open 9 am-4 pm (W-M). www.dpbanhmi.com.

14207 Chef Menteur Hwy., 504.254.0214. Map 1, G1 MELBA’S Southern. Fast, friendly service, over-

stuffed po’boys and crispy fried chicken drive locals (and in-the-know visitors) to this off-thebeaten-path spot just minutes from the French Quarter. $ B, L, D (daily). www.eatatmelbas.com.

1525 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.267.7765. Map 1, D3

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

Shopping

Purposefully Designed

Pot-ty Training

Taylor Swift, Jennifer Lawrence, Cameron Diaz: Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons has a large celebrity following, which makes sense given her California upbringing. But it’s her New Orleans roots (dating to the 1860s) that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-and-mortar space. Mardi Gras Indians, voodoo, alligators (shown), oysters and oil spills are all included in the collections at Porter Lyons (631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348), each symbolic of the city’s history, people and environment. But Lyons’ designs don’t just borrow from local culture; they also give back, with five percent of all profits going to coastal restoration efforts.

Grown men can get as excited as little boys when it comes to crawfish boils. Now kids can safely get in on the adult fun with the Lil Bit Crawfish Boil Set, which comes with a plastic pot, strainer and paddle, in addition to pretend mudbugs, veggies and sesaoning. You’ll find them at Dirty Coast (p. 30) and other area gift shops.

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel Soldiers’ Pay. First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings.

Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and

accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DIRTY COAST Just when you thought

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

New Orleans couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-toresist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www. hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3308 Magazine St., 504.269.4005. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 KIT AND ACEThis lululemon offshoot is known for

its line of “technical cashmere” clothing. Geared to both sexes, the chic shop’s luxe street wear is

both versatile and machine-washable. www.kitandace.com. 3913 Magazine St., 844.548.6223. Map 1, D4

NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie.com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4 WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European womenswear,

from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store,

THE PRALINE, that quintessential Crescent City souvenir, was created in 17th-century France as a digestive aide and named for French diplomat Cesar du Plessis-Praslin.

30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

(LEFT) ©PORTER LYONS; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www. louisianataxfree.com.

vintage CHANEL

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 30

Clothing........................................................................................................ 30 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 32 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 33 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 34 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 34 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 34 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 35 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 35 Shoes............................................................................................................... 36 Special Services...................................................................................... 36

which features the latest by such leading designers as Piazza Sempione and Stella McCartney. www.weinsteinsinc.com. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including

designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything form clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5

YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY

IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

everything from toys and kitchen accessories to sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. are also available. www.ideafactoryneworleans.com.

924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann 32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222 Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET

SHOPPING

St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 RAZZLE DAZZLE Searching for great gift items?

Step into this French Quarter boutique, where Mardi Gras masks and collectibles are coupled with jewerly, locally made candles, seasonal home accents and more. www.razzledazzle.com. 742 Royal St., 504.568.0001. Map 3, G4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, travel diaries and photo albums. www.scriptura.com.

5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.809.1026. Map 1, D4 LAURA’S CANDIES Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on buying from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 33

THE GUIDE GLOW-IN-THE-DARK SILICONE PINT WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2

Hats & Accessories FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4 WEHMEIER’S This emporium stocks a wide

variety of super-premium items in exotic leathers, including alligator, ostrich and lizard belts, bags and accessories. Fine leather boots for both men and women from Lucchese, Old Gringo and Lane are featured. www.wehmeiers.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.681.2082. Map 3, E5

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international

34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., level A. Map 3, D7; 140 Carondelet St. Map 3, D3 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

123 Baronne St., 504.335.3190. Map 3, E3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City

branch of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments—reflexology, volcanic stone massages, seaweed wraps, expresso-mud scrubs—along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www. neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

3536 TOULOUSE ST NOLATILYADIE.COM

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 COUTELIER Form and function combine at this Riv-

erbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks. com. 8239 Oak Street, 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 RD HOME Contemporary furnishings and table-

ware meld with estate pieces at this home decor shop. www.razzledazzle.com. 2014 Magazine St., 504.523.9525. Map 1, D4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 SPRUCE Does your space need a spruce up? Start

by stopping in at this eco-conscious interiors studio. Funky fabrics, one-of-a-kind wallpaper and design consultation services are offered. www.sprucenola.com. 2043 Magazine St., 504.265.0946. Map 1, D4

537 ROYAL ST. 2048 MAGAZINE ST. trashydiva.com 504.299.3939

SHOPPING

Jewelry ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich cre-

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ates handmade jewelry on site at this small space in the Rink shopping center. New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, streetcars) and bits of nature (leaf and bone imprints) are featured in her designs and works by national crafters. www.adornandconquer. com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.702.8036. Map 1, D4

books, toys, gifts & apparel

ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

1 3 1 DEC ATU R ST. C LA I RE E LI ZA B ETHG A LLERY.C O M

nola kids

St. a r tre s 333 Ch 6.134 0 6 5 0 4.5 aily Open d

www.facebook.com/nolakids

FOR INFANTS, TODDLERS AND CHILDREN

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop.

As its name suggests, fleurs de lis are prominent. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4

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KREWE DU OPTIC Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett

has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.kreweduoptic.com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

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Mid-Century Modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to friends, or to themselves and then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4 WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely

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devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, aong with new designer lines such as Thistle & Bee. www.wcjewelry.com.

505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

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Malls/Major Retailers

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JAX BREWERY This 1891 brewhouse is now a

riverfront marketplace with three levels of shops and restaurants. www.jacksonbrewery.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.566.7245. Map 3, G5 LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses

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THE GUIDE

more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Canal Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio, Coach and Nordstrom Rack. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within walking distance of the Cental Business District and French Quarter. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place

features some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Allen Edmonds, J. Crew, Banana Republic, lululemon athletica and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

• Clocks • Puzzles • Office

Toys • Boxes • Games •

Gizmos • Gadgets • Gifts of Wood

Shoes DONALD J. PLINER This Canal Place retailer is

devoted to shoes, handbags and accessories from designer Donald J. Pliner. www.donaldjpliner.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.522.1720. Map 3, E5 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2

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Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction” of-

fers high-fashion women’s shoes without the high prices that usually accompany them. Get a step ahead with a large selection of cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services

Papier Plume 842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

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FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In

addition to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility offers Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.com. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 ROYAL MAIL SERVICE Can’t fit all the goodies

you bought into the overhead bin? Send them home via this postal center, which offers DHL, Federal Express and UPS pickups. 828 Royal St., 504.522.8523. Map 3, H4

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3/10/14 11:24:10

THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques

A Change of Face

Beyond Borders

Last month’s Mardi Gras parades may have passed but the Carnival spirit rolls on throughout March with the Masked/Unmasked exhibit at Claire Elizabeth Gallery (p. 38). The group exhibition, which explores the art of “masking”—and the psychology behind it— spotlights up-and-coming Southern talents working in a wide range of media (including local photographer Jason Kruppa, shown). “The subject matter is something that has always intrigued me, both as a native of New Orleans and lover of Carnival, as well as a keen observer of human nature” says gallery director Claire Thriffiley. “Sometimes the masks we wear reveal more about ourselves than when we’re unmasked.”

Intercultural identity is the focus of Black Contemporaries in Mexico at Stella Jones Gallery (p. 37), which examines the influence living outside of the U.S. had on renowned African-American artists Elizabeth Catlett and Joseph Lofton. Original drawings by Catlett (shown) are showcased alongside Lofton’s paintings.

Central Business/ Warehouse District ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 608 Julia St., 504.309.0394. Map 3, C5

(LEFT) ©CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY; (RIGHT) ©STELLA JONES GALLERY

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contem-

porary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are featured. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international

artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary.com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This

gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery. com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured. www.martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as

well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com.

400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6

STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent exhibition space for AfricanAmerican artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www. stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Steve Taylor, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com.

241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern

France on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18thcentury antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive

NIGHT GALLERY: Local crafters display their works during the nocturnal Frenchmen Art Market (619 Frenchmen St.), Thur.-Mon., from 8 pm until midnight. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 37

THE GUIDE

michalopoulos.com

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

617 Bienville Street | New Orleans

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 37

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 37 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................41

jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4; 611 & 619 Royal St. Map 3, G4 ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works (oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks) by dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here.

Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5

WE GROOVIN 96 X 60

New Exhibition opening March 11th at the Ogden Museum!

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

623 royAL street

French quArter

new orLeAns

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

THE GUIDE

first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4

A PIC T UR E AND A T H OU SAND WOR DS

HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

AN E XH I B I T I O N O N V I E W T H R O U G H M AR C H 2 5 , 2 0 1 7

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. D4

AD M I S S I O N I S F R E E

KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4

Clarence John Laughlin, 1974, by Michael P. Smith; THNOC, gift of Mrs. Clarence John Laughlin, 2006.0019.1.50

A Louisiana native, Clarence John Laughlin began his career as photographer in the 1930s, eventually emerging as one of America’s pioneers in surrealist and experimental photography. This exhibition displays the enigmatic photographer’s letters to and from fellow artists, writers, editors, and curators alongside the prints he exchanged with his photographer contemporaries.

LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MARTIN WELCH ART Martin “the Crab Man” Welch

has been capturing crustaceans on canvas since 2002. His brightly hued, sea-themed works have been showcased at the New Orleans Museum of Art as well as on the HBO series “Treme.” www.martinwelchart.com. 223 Dauphine St., 504.388.4240. Map 3, F3 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4

40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

Williams Research Center 410 Chartres Street in the French Quarter Tuesday–Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

(504) 523-4662 www.hnoc.org

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for history and Hollywood

buffs, this hip shop is filled with maps, signed collectibles and one-of-a-kind jewelry. Marilyn Monroe glamour pics, first-edition novels and assorted music memorabilia are among the many offerings.

329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec. Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection, along with sculpture by Richard McDonald, Martin Eichinger and Paige Bradley. www.windsorfineart. com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 FRENCHY GALLERY Art of the moment takes on

new meaning in the hands of Randy Leo Frechette, who captures moments on canvas as they unfold.

From music fests to sporting events to Carnival parades, you’ll find the real-time artist fast at work among the crowds. www.frenchylive.com. 8319 Oak St., 504.861.7595. Map 1, C3 GARDEN DISTRICT GALLERY This gallery, located

FEBRUARY 17 – MAY 21, 2017 Pietro Longhi, The Perfume Seller (detail), 1750 – 1752 Oil on canvas, Venice, Ca’ Rezzonico

www.noma.org

04-0217 Venice Where Magazine sixth page Ad.indd 1

near Commander’s Palace restaurant, features rotating exhibits by local, regional and national artists. www.gardendistrictgallery.com. 1332 Washington Ave., 504.891.3032. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with it pop-art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 THE SPIELMAN COMPANY Photographer David

Spielman is known for his black-and-white takes of famous Southern scribes, and for chronicling the city in the days after Katrina. His works are found 2/2/17 4:06 PMat the Ogden Museum of Southern Art...and at his Garden District gallery. www.davidspielman.com.

2727 Prytania St., 504.899.7670. Map 1, D4 THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O This innovative de-

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of designers. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2113. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture found here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE

Entertainment

In Their Sunday Best

Spring Fling

Once hard to find, in recent years Mardi Gras Indian tribes have become a must-see, especially on Super Sunday (March 19), when they parade their feathered and beaded finery around the Central City neighborhood. Outfitted in colorful, hand-stitched creations that can weigh 100-plus pounds, tribe members strut and preen through the streets, battling it out to see who is “prettiest.” The procession begins at 1 pm at A.L. Davis Park (Washington Avenue and LaSalle Street), unless the forecast calls for rain. Missed the big show? Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian suits are on view year-round at the Backstreet Cultural Museum (p. 45) and the House of Dance & Feathers (1317 Tupelo St., 504.957.2678).

With the azaleas come the annual Spring Fiesta home tours. Now in its 81st year, the March 25 and 26 affair allows visitors entry into private French Quarter and Garden District properties. Guided walking tours focusing on area architecture are also offered. Call 504.581.1367 for tickets, or visit springfiestanola.com.

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to

insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

ENTERGY GIANT SCREEN THEATER

1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Eye-popping features are shown on a Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. five-and-a-half-story screen. $10.50 adults, wheretraveler.com $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 $9.50 seniors, $8 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from daily; call for schedule and closing times.

St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Opens at 10 Eye-popping features are shown on a five-andam daily; call for closing times. www.audubona-half-story screen. $10.50 adults, $9.50 seniors, $8 institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for schedule 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 and closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org.

Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, 1 Canal St., CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 of the dead” act as windows on the past, offering FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market insight into local history and customs. St. Louis dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown No. 1, just outside the Quarter, is the city’s oldest; specialties, the market also features a number of Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Place, of her works there. Many are located in high-crime 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night.

HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush located at the foot of Canal Street. This mamcanopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, moth pleasure palace features five New Orleanslarger even than New York’s Central Park. www. themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., table games, live entertainment and a lavish 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or originally known as Place d’Armes, and was reclimb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres named to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter to op. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers jogging and biking paths, a dog run and picture-perfect MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year picnic areas www.crescentparknola.org. Map 3, J6 long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the

MORE THAN 100 MILES of dedicated bicycle lanes have been added around New Orleans over the past decade, making it one of the most bike-friendly cities in the U.S. 42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

(ALL IMAGES) ©SHAWN FINK

Attractions & Landmarks

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.588.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2

pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5 NOLA MOTORSPORTS PARK Racing fans, start your

engines. This state-of-the-art facility offers car and motorcycle tracks geared for both competitive and recreational use, along with kart rentals and racing. www.nolamotor.com. 11075 Nicolle Blvd., Avondale, 504.302.4875.

OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4

THE THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-of-

the-art movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining. www.thetheatres.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake

Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with moonlight and twilight outings. Prices vary. www. canoeandtrail.com. 504.233.0686.

CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

group city and plantation tours, in addition to private excursions. Hotel pickups available; rates vary. www.celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 43

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 61-63.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................42 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................43 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 45 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 47 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 48

then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery.Super City Tour –2 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs.

Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.Original Cocktail Tour – 2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour-5.5 hrs. For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans. com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs.

Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 pm and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

where you are. ®

(and where you’re going.)

All the latest buzz about the city from the experts at Where Magazine.

Shopping, dining, attractions, it’s all here 24/7.

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm and 7:30 pm) from

Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

JEAN LAFITTE HISTORICAL TOURS These National

Park Service walking tours focus on the history of the Mississippi River Delta and depart 9:30 am daily (except Christmas and Mardi Gras). Tickets are free, but there is a 25-person limit per tour; pick up tickets after 9 am (one pass issued per person). www.nps.gov/jela. 419 Decatur St., 504.589.2636. Map 3, F5 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under.

Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

WHEEL FUN RENTALS This company offers a

variety of ways to explore City Park. Surrey, chopper, cruiser and tandem bikes are among the many cycles available for hourly rentals, in addition to kayaks, pedal boats, paddle boards and more.

Open daily at 10 am. www.wheelfunrenatals.com.

Big Lake Trail, City Park, 504.300.1289. Map 1, D2

Museums & Exhibits BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display.

Admission $10; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. www. backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 BEAUREGARDKEYES HOUSE This beautifully

restored 1826 villa and garden was the home of Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $9 seniors/students, $4 ages 6-12, under 6 free. www.bkhouse.org. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 45

THE GUIDE

$5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $10; $8 seniors/ students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo, Map 3, G4)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History. 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St., Map 3, G5)– Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St., Map 3, G5)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave., Map 3, I5)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint.

Presbytère (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–Continuing: Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana and Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond. For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film Beyond All Boundaries, while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $26 adults, $22.50 seniors, $16.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. Beyond All Boundaries: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings.

The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm; free. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2

YOUR EVENT WILL BE CELEBRATED IN HISTORY. H ERMANN- G RIMA H O US E NEW O RL EA NS ’ H IS T O RIC EVENT S ET T ING .

NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/stu46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

820 saint louis street | events@hgghh.org hgghh.org

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

dents, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org.

514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM The Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-4 pm. www.newcombartgallery. tulane.edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free).

Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10.50; students/ seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. www.southernfood.org. 1507 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3

Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAR TONIQUE This sleek and chic boite brings a

welcome air of sophistication to North Rampart Street. Dark woods and candlelight set the mood for top-shelf cocktails, house-made tonics and an extensive selection of wines by the glass. www.bartonique.com. 820 N. Rampart St., 504.324.6045. Map 3, H3 COURT OF TWO SISTERS CARRIAGEWAY BAR Lo-

cated in a 19th-century French Quarter carriageway, this bar features an picturesque courtyard, fireplace and tons of ambiance. www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 COURTYARD BREWERY Beer lovers will fall for the

small batches with big taste at this micro-micro brewery. A snack with your brew? Check the rotating schedule of food trucks. www.courtyardbrewing.com. 1020 Erato St.. Map 3, A7 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only

brewpub. Microbrews, nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5 FINN MCCOOL’S Thirsty for an authentic Irish pub?

Skip the Irish Channel and head for Mid-City, where Finn’s packs ’em in every St. Patty’s Day and on any given Monday with its wildly popular trivia night. www.finnmccools.com. 3701 Banks St., 504.486.9080. Map 1, D3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 47

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 MOLLY’S AT THE MARKET Musicians and media

types, literati and eccentrics: Good old Molly’s has one of the best mixes of French Quarter folk (and with-the-beat visitors) at any hour of the day or night. www.mollysatthemarket.net. 1107 Decatur St., 504.525.5169. Map 3, I5

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NAPOLEON HOUSE Offered to the emperor if

2

he could escape exile (so the tale goes), this is a legendary watering hole. An hour spent enjoying a a Pimm’s Cup in the courtyard is a quintessential N’awlins experience. www.napoleonhouse.com.

500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F5

• Open 6 Days • Closed Tuesdays • Dinner served 5pm-till • Live Music

NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a mas-

sive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www. nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4

536 Frenchmen 504.252.4801 3musesnola.com

OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such

bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehouse.com. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4

c

PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

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of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone,

this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and features live music Tu-Sa. www.hotelmonteleone.com. 214 Royal St., 504.304.4714. Map 1, F4 CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the

Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 504.304.4714. Map 1, D3 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape

inside the Ritz-Carlton offering a large selection of classic New Orleans cocktails, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of

Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYSThis hip venue in the über-hip Ace

Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing local history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers two locations

and a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; 7537 Maple St., 504.510.2749. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 49

THE GUIDE

Navigate Hit the Road

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, complete with a new 35-gate terminal due to open in 2018.

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

©SHAWN FINK

Worlds apart from New Orleans, but just a short drive away, Cajun country (p. 51) is almost a state within a state, comprising 22 parishes in the southwest portion of Louisiana.

Take a group of Nova Scotians and Québécois displaced by Canada’s French and Indian War during the 1750s, add a handful of Native American tribes and a sprinkling of German immigrants, and you get the rich cultural mix that is Acadiana. With the bustling city of Lafayette at its center, it’s easy to explore the hundreds of tiny towns that dot the region. From the low rolling hills in the north to the muddy bayous in the south—and all the crawfish, boudin and zydeco between—a visit to Cajun country is well worth a day (or two) trip.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index General Information........................................................................... 50 Nearby Destinations............................................................................51 Cajun Country...........................................................................................51 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 51 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 51 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................51 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................51 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 51 Transportation ....................................................................................... 50

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters and a growing number of popular eateries. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5 CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military

outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residental shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE ARTS DISTRICT This “Southern

SoHo” adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history

and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

LAFOURCHE PARISH Founded in 1807, Lafourche

was one of the Louisiana’s original parishes when it became a state in 1812. Situated along Bayou Lafourche, which extends to the Gulf of Mexico, the area is rich in fish and wildlife, making it an ideal location for early Acadian settlers. The Jean Lafitte National Park Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux, the parish seat, offers insight into Cajun life, while swamp tours provide an upclose look local flora and fauna. Thibodaux is also home to the Laurel Village Sugar Plantation and Museum (the largest surviving 19th–century sugar plantation in the U.S.) and Nicholls State University (aka “Harvard on the Bayou”). www.visitlafourche. com. 985.537.5800.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time, cher. www. houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

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MAGAZINE STREET STRETCHING SIX MILES parallel to the Mississippi River from Canal Street to Audubon Park and the zoo, Magazine Street slices through many different New Orleans neighborhoods. The Central Business District (CBD) and Warehouse Arts District, the Irish Channel, as well as the Lower Garden District, Garden District proper and Uptown—all are inter sected by Magazine. Along the way, you can find some of the city’s best clothing boutiques for children, women and men plus galleries, antique stores, restaurants, cafes, gourmet shops and more.

HISTORIC NEIGHBORHOODS

2

Between parts of Magazine Street and St. Charles Avenue lies the Garden District and Uptown neighborhoods, perhaps the grandest of New Orleans’ neighborhoods. The Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne-style homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available.

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2 1

THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Retro Romance Destination weddings take on whole new meaning along historic River Road, where bridal parties don’t just travel to another time zone, but to an entirely different era.

Most plantations offer wedding packages, from elaborate affairs to simple ceremonies. At Destrehan, for example, vows are exchanged in a rustic 1830s mule barn, while Nottoway (shown), with its exquisite all-white ballroom, full-service salon and on-site honeymoon suite, is more refined.

At Oak Alley couples gather beneath a picturesque canopy of 300-year-old oaks to say their “I dos.” Houmas House, with its 38 acres of lush gardens and varied venues (from the pristine Grand Lawn to the Asianinspired Tea House), can conduct multiple ceremonies at once, helping secure its placement among The Knot’s list of the nation’s best wedding facilities.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $18 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African fold Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the CIvil War; today only a handful remain.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

©NOTTOWAY PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 58 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 58 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 59 Dining........................................................................................................... 60

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 60 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

MAP 1 NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

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THE GUIDE

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62 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 t S Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 in e RH a v OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 Sp hA AveOmni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 OO c n i l o kPL n R a Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 Fr St PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 7 Street Direction SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 French Quarter WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 E4 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 Jazzy Passes WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Outdoors Lover

LGBTQ Travelers

Music Fan

As one the nation’s most bike-friendly cities, New Orleans has seen a boom in two-wheel vendors. (1) Crescent City Bike Tours is among the most popular, offering guided rides as well as private rentals. Set off on your own along the riverfront Crescent Park. Surrey with the fringe on top more your speed?

(2) Wheel Fun provides single and double surreys for exploring City Park. Cruiser bikes are also available, along with kayak, pedal boat and canoe rentals. Or explore the Tammany Trace, which spans 26 miles through five Northshore communities just across Lake Pontchartrain. The Northshore is also home to (3) Canoe & Trail Adventures, which launches daily eco-conscious expeditions that work both your brain and your body.

Duck into (1) Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, which provided safe haven for the legendary pirate and for “bohemian types," such as Tennessee Williams and Noel Coward, from the 1940s until 1953, when the proprietors lost their lease. Then check out Café Laffite in Exile—one of the nation’s oldest gay bars—just a block away. Or take a spin at the revolving (2) Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone, where Truman Capote claimed to have been born and Liberace was first to tickle the ivories. When the clubs clear out, the party continues at (3) Clover Grill. Open 24/7, the raucous diner is beloved for its burgers cooked under hubcaps, all-day breakfasts, acerbic waiters and late-night floor shows starring eccentric Bourbon Street characters.

From Jelly Roll Morton to Troy “Trombone Shorty” Andrews, New Orleans has a long and rich musical heritage. Home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater, (1) Armstrong Park is also home to Congo Square, where jazz is said to have first germinated—hence the statues of Louis Armstrong, Buddy Bolden and other musical giants that pepper the park. A little live music with your eggs Benedict? The concept of the weekend jazz brunch originated at (2) Commander’s Palace, where it’s been perfected to an edible art form. With few seats, no air conditioning and no booze, you wouldn’t think folks would be lining up to get in (3) Preservation Hall. But the music is worth the wait; traditional New Orleans jazz at its very best.

64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2017

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; ©CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©KERRI MCCAFFETY; ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©COMMANDER'S PALACE; ©HOWARD LAMBERT

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS.

HOUMAS HOUSE Plantation and Gardens Houmas House Plantation and Gardens makes memories of legendary proportions. Tour the original plantation house built in the 1770s, stroll through 36 acres of breathtaking gardens, discover unique items at the gift shop, and dine at Houmas House’s exquisite restaurants. The Inn at Houmas House now offers 21 luxurious rooms for overnight stays. Plan your visit to the “Crown Jewel of Louisiana’s River Road” today!

Houmas House Plantation and Gardens 40136 Hwy 942 • Darrow, LA 70725 • 225-473-9380 • www.HoumasHouse.com

VISIT THE HISTORIC GRAND DAME RESTAURANT AND COURTYARD VALE PARK T ING NO W AVA ILABL

Sunday Brunch!

819 RUE CONTI

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J O I N U S F O R O U R FA M O U S J A Z Z B R U N C H E V E RY S U N D AY F R O M 1 0 : 3 0 A M - 2 : 3 0 P M I N C L U D I N G BOTTOMLESS MIMOSAS AND CLASSIC CREOLE FARE.

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