Where New Orleans February 2017

FEBRUARY 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

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BEAD DAZZLE Mardi Gras parades and must-catch moments

NBA ALL-STAR GAME CIRQUE DU SOLEIL SWEET EATS SURREAL SCULPTURE STING, BILLY JOEL AND MORE

FOLLOW IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS It should have been impossible. Crossing the world’s widest ocean to answer an attack made by a powerful adversary.

Through hostile terrain and untold suffering, millions of Americans pushed past impossible to win the Pacific War. Follow in their footsteps on The Road to Tokyo, a new immersive experience at The National WWII Museum.

#1 Attraction in New Orleans #4 Museum in the United States

504.528.1944 | NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

ART & EY&S

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494

artandeyesnola.com

Carnival Time.

Get stoned‌..or just festive!

indy eyewear like no where else.

Francis Klein hand made in Paris

HIGHEST RATED

STEAKHOUSE IN NEW OR LEA NS

VOT ED BY OPEN TA BLE DI NER S'

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Open 5 p.m. Daily • 322 Magazine Street • 504.522.7902 • chophousenola.com

Top (Left). Salvador DALI. Costume de L’An 2000. 1966. Original watercolor and ink. Top (Middle). Jose BASSO. Nieblina Matinal. 2016. Original oil on canvas. Top (Right).Paige BRADLEY. Balance. Bronze. Bottom (Left). Pablo PICASSO. Femme au Corsage au Fleurs. 1957. Original lithograph. Bottom (Middle). Jules CHERET. Theatre de L’Opera Carnival 1892. Original lithograph. Bottom (Right). Joan MIRO. Le Brahmane. 1978. Original aquatint and carborundum.

Located on Royal Street in the heart of New Orleans historic French Quarter, Windsor Fine Art has remained a resource for discriminating collectors since its founding in 2000 and features an impressive collection of original paintings, works on paper, and sculpture by history’s most revered artists.

REMBRANDT. DURER. LAUTREC. CHERET. STEINLEN. MUCHA. GAUGUIN. DEGAS. MATISSE. CHAGALL. MIRO. PICASSO. DALI. FRANCIS. HIRST. WARHOL. BASSO. ZUPAN. ROYO. OTTIERI. BRADLEY. EICHINGER. TORRES. BATTISTIN. FLATTMANN.

221 Royal Street I New Orleans I 504.586.0202 I www.windsorfineart.com

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Metairie French Quarter Uptown 3000 Severn Ave 539 Bienville St 2109 Magazine St 504.888.7080 504.875.2929 504.309.7702

O R LE A N S S H O E S . C O M

New Orleans CONTENTS

02.17

SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

the plan

the guide 22

11 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Ron Laigaie Bourbon Orleans concierge.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood.

Plus Maypop and aphrodisiacs on the half shell.

12 Editor's Itinerary A 90-minute exploration of the Historic New Orleans Collection to make the most of your time in the city.

XX 35 SHOPPING Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus Anthony Davis' athleisure wear line.

14 Hot Dates Mardi Gras Mask Market The art of disguise, Family Gras, Billy Joel, Dave Chappelle, Chris Tucker, Sting and 16 other entertaining ideas to entertain.

GALLERIES &

43 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl. Plus breathtaking bead art.

48

ENTERTAINMENT

XX

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and music clubs.

Plus swamp tours and a fresh look at femininity.

58 XX

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus the new Rampart streetcar line.

ON THE COVER

FEBRUARY 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

®

"Walter," one of

FIND

THE BEST OF THE CITY where traveler.com

many beaded sculptures by

BEAD DAZZLE

artist Betsy

Mardi Gras parades and must-catch moments

NBA ALL-STAR GAME

Youngquist found at Gallery Two.

CIRQUE DU SOLEIL SWEET EATS SURREAL SCULPTURE STING, BILLY JOEL AND MORE

E~NO-WM_170200_01_Cover.indd 1

©GALLERY TWO

1/3/17 12:26 PM

16

where now

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus picture-perfect plantation weddings.

Carnival atmosphere: A month full of parades, pagentry and Mardi Gras must-dos.

NBA All-Star Game, Fat Tuesday finery and booking it through the city's bars and brothels.

19 Center Stage

Cirque du Soleil's "Toruk—The First Flight."

20 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

PLANTATION COUNTRY

16 On the Go

18 Out + About CONNECT WITH US

66 XX

Hot chocolate, king cake and life-changing cocoa.

8 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 69-71

(LEFT) ©JSTONE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (CENTER) ©SHAWN FINK

72 Where Inside: New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for family travelers, luxury seekers and romantics.

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Ron Laigaie Concierge at the Bourbon Orleans Hotel

Q: Name three Mardi Gras parades visitors should seek out.

A: Nothing dents Zulu or Rex on Mardi Gras morning, but I think for color and to get a real feel for Mardi Gras, it would be Endymion, Bacchus and Orpheus. I also think Krewe du Vieux is very clever. It’s smaller, satirical and kind of risqué.

Q: What is your favorite Carnival season tradition?

A: I’m not a big king cake person, but I do like some of the plainer varieties, like the French-style galette des rois at Croissant d’Or (p. 27). It’s not quite as sweet; it’s more elegant and rich.

Q: Any advice for Fat Tuesday firsttimers?

A: Go out and have fun, but watch the drinking; you can have a good time without being totally blitzed. Also stay with your friends, and try to not get separated.

Q: The NBA All-Star Game returns to town this month. Suggest a few places for all-star dining.

A: People love the barbecue shrimp at Mr. B’s Bistro (p. 29). And guests also really like Tableau (p. 31); they have some great desserts there.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©TABLEAU

Q: And for a Valentine’s Day? A: For a special occasion, Commander’s Palace (p. 32) is always a good choice. It’s not particularly small, though, so in that sense, it might not be thought of as romantic. Angeline (p. 25) is more intimate and romantic, as is Café Sbisa (p. 27), which recently reopened.

Tableau

11

EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY NEWS TO TRAVEL BY

The Essential New Orleans It may seem as though Mardi Gras is all about beads and booze, but like many local traditions it’s rooted in history. Dating to the Middle Ages, Fat Tuesday was first celebrated stateside in 1699 by French explorers en route to Louisiana. Catch a krewe cup along the parade route… and raise a toast to history.

90 MINUTES IN

The Historic New Orleans Collection With its numerous French Quarter properties, hundreds of holdings and various exhibits exploring the city’s 300-year backstory, the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 52) is a must-visit for lovers of local lore. Its free Louisiana History Galleries serve as the perfect primer. Divided among different time periods, each room offers insight into New Orleans’ evolution through a wide range of artifacts and ephemera, from hand-hewn cypress logs and early Mardi Gras memorabilia to the first Jazzfest poster and a shovel used at the Superdome’s groundbreaking. Friendly docents are on hand to provide details and answer questions, while a free smartphone tour helps you explore on your own.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

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WHERE CALENDAR FEBRUARY

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TOP STOPS 14 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

HOUSE OF BLUES Feb. 2: The Brass-aHolics; Feb. 13: The Expendables; Feb. 16: Wax Tailor. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583; hob.com HOWLIN’ WOLF Feb. 19: Hot 8 Brass Band; Feb. 27: Rebirth Brass Band; Feb. 27: Lundi Gras with Big Sam’s Funky Nation & Naughty Professor. 907 S. Peters St., 504.522.9653; thehowlinwolf.com

HOT DATES

February 24-27

Impressed by the inventive costumes along the parade routes? Don’t just admire from the sidelines; join in the fun with a disguise of your own. While mass-produced synthetic masks are found at souvenir shops citywide, for true Carnival aficionados the most coveted are the intricate, hand-tooled works of art on display at the annual French Market Mardi Gras Mask Market. Now in it’s 34th year, the bizarre bazaar spotlights colorful creations by more than a dozen mask makers from around the U.S. Sculpted leather satyr horns, fantastical beasts, towering feathered headdresses—if it’s unusual and unique you’re looking for, look no further. Dutch Alley, between Dumaine and St. Phillip streets

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

DANCING WITH THE STARS > FEB. 4 Olympic gold medalist and new “Stars” champion Laurie Hernandez, joined by finalists from the show’s 23rd season, leaps from the small screen to the big stage of the Saegner Theater. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 1

Joel

ROCK ’N’ ROLL MARATHON > FEB. 35 This fun run features live bands along a 26-mile route, which ends in City Park with a performance by the Dirty Dozen Brass Band. Halfmarathon, 5K and 10K races are also held, along with a free fitness expo. runrocknroll.com 2

Family Gras

There’s a lot more going on this month.

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BILLY JOEL > FEB. 10 The “Piano Man,” who captivated crowds at Jazzfest in 2013, returns to town with his jampacked, Grammy-winning songbook. Some 3

14 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

things just get better with age. Smoothie King Center, 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 DAVE CHAPPELLE & CHRIS TUCKER > FEB. 1518 What do you get when you put two top comedians together on one stage? Four nights of fun. Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 4

5 FAMILY GRAS > FEB. 1719 This Mardi party in nearby Metairie is more kid-friendly than adult-oriented. Live concerts by top local and national acts are followed by nightly parades. Veterans Blvd. and Causeway Blvd.; familygras.com

6 STING > FEB. 22 The former Police frontman pulls into the University of New Orleans' Lakefront Arena in support of his new album, “57th and 9th.” 6801 Franklin Ave., 800.745.3000

THE SPOTTED CAT Feb. 7: Smokin’ Time Jazz Club; Feb. 18: Meschiya Lake & the Little Big Horns; Feb. 24: Washboard Chaz Blues Trio. 623 Frenchmen St., no phone; spottedcatmusicclub.com ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Feb. 15: The Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra and the Historic New Orleans Collection present “Uniquely New Orleans: The Classical Tradition and Jazz.” Free. Jackson Square; hnoc.org TIPITINA’S Feb. 1: The Dean Ween Group; Feb. 10: Spider Stacy’s Poguetry & the Lost Bayou Ramblers; Feb. 25 & 27: Galactic.

501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477; tipitinas.com

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER) ©JSTONE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BOTTOM) ©PISAPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

MARDI GRAS MASK MARKET:

JOY THEATER Feb. 16: Yonder Mountain String Band. 1200 Canal St., 800.745.3000; thejoytheater.com

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For a taste of New Orleans, add a cigar maker to your next party.

where now New Orleans

The city’s top events, entertainment, attractions, dining and more

The countdown to Fat Tuesday is on. Mardi Gras Day doesn’t arrive until month’s end, but the party gets started a lot earlier than that. Grab a go-cup and get ready to revel!

Zulu

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

ON THE GO

w w w.wheretrave ler.c o m

Roll ’Em! It’s not often that the bulk of Carnival parades take place all in one month. But this year a full 36 Mardi Gras processions roll during February. Brace— and pace—yourself for the “biggest free party on earth.”

There’s a lot more going on this month. wheretraveler.com Visit us online.

Feb. 11

Krewe du Vieux, French Quarter, 6:30 pm Krewe Delusion, French Quarter, 7:30 pm

Feb. 17

Krewe of Cork, French Quarter, 3 pm Oshun, Uptown, 6 pm Cleopatra, Uptown, 6:30 pm

Feb. 18

Pontchartrain, Uptown, 1 pm Choctaw, Uptown, 2 pm Freret, Uptown, 2:30 pm ’tit Rex, Marigny, 5 pm Sparta, Uptown, 6 pm Pygmalion, Uptown, 6:15 pm Chewbacchus, Marigny, 7 pm

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER) ©CHERYL GERBER; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK; (OPENING PAGE) ©CHERYL GERBER

Feb. 19

Femme Fatale, Uptown, 11 am Carrollton, Uptown, noon King Arthur, Uptown, 1 pm Alla, Uptown, 1:30 pm Barkus, French Quarter, 2 pm

Feb. 22

Druids, Uptown, 6:30 pm Nyx, Uptown, 7 pm

Feb. 23

Babylon, Uptown, 5:45 pm Chaos, Uptown, 6:15 pm Muses, Uptown, 6:30 pm

Feb. 24

Hermes, Uptown, 6 pm Krewe d’Etat, Uptown, 6:30 pm Morpheus, Uptown, 7 pm

Feb. 25

Iris, Uptown, 11 am Tucks, Uptown, noon Endymion, Mid-City, 4:15 pm

Society of St. Anne

Mardi Gras Moments

Uptown along the St. Charles Avenue parade route, deep down in the Bywater or smack in the middle of Bourbon Street? It can be hard deciding just where to position yourself to make the most of the Mardi Gras mayhem. Take our advice, and keep moving; pop-up parties and rowdy revelry are at every turn. But if you must make an agenda, add these fun festivities to your mustcatch list.

GREASING OF THE POLES Each year on the Friday before Fat Tuesday (Feb. 24), the Royal Sonesta Hotel (300 Bourbon St.) slicks up its balcony with petroleum jelly in an effort to deter unwanted merrymakers from shimmying up.

What was once purely a preventive measure has since morphed into a massive street party, complete with live music and celebrity “greasers.” The Carnival kookiness kicks off at 10 am.

FOOT PARADES Sure, superkrewes such as Endymion wow with their supersize

MEETING OF THE KINGS Zulu and Rex roll on Mardi Gras Day, but their kings meet up at 6:30 pm the night before (Lundi Gras) at Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. and the river), where the mayor hands over the keys to the city. A free riverfront fest precedes the procession, beginning at 11 am.

Feb. 26

Okeanos, Uptown, 11 am Mid-City, Uptown, 11:45 am Thoth, Uptown, noon Bacchus, Uptown, 5:15 pm

Feb. 27

Proteus, Uptown, 5:15 pm Orpheus, Uptown, 6 pm

Feb. 28

Zulu, Uptown, 8 am Rex, Uptown, 10 am

floats, but it’s the season’s smaller parades that really charm. Make an effort to make it to the Marigny for ’tit Rex (Feb. 18 at 5 pm), in which entries are no larger than a shoebox, and to the too-cute French Quarter kids parade along Royal Street (Feb. 23 at 11:30 am).

Legume lovers get their fill during the Red Beans and Rice parade, which kicks off Feb. 27 at 2 pm from 725 St. Ferdinand Street, but the real showstopper is the always creative Society of St. Anne, which wades into the Quarter from the Bywater neighborhood on Fat Tuesday, starting at 10 am.

Greasing of the Poles

BATTLE OF THE BANDS Prior to the Bacchus parade, work

Battle of the Bands

your way to the corner of Napoleon and Tchoupitoulas, where marching bands warm up with a little friendly competition. Hope you like horns.

BOURBON STREET AWARDS Prancing peacocks, way-out Willy Wonkas, a walking Manhattan skyline: If it’s outrageous and overthe-top, you’re likely to see it—and then some—during “the most famous drag queen competition in America.” This campy costume contest, now in its 53rd year, draws thousands to the 800 block of Bourbon at noon on Mardi Gras Day. 17

WHERE NOW New

Orleans All-Star City Charlotte’s loss is New Orleans’ gain Feb. 17-19 with the return of the NBA All-Star Weekend, which the city last hosted in 2014. The National Basketball Association’s top talents and biggest names come a-courtin’ for the 66th annual bigticket, big-league matchup at the Smoothie King Center, with Grammy winner John Legend thrown in for good half-time measure. Prior to

the Jan. 19 East-West tip-off, you’ll find a number of parties and related events taking place citywide over the weekend. The fun tips off Feb. 17 with a Celebrity Game at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome and the Rising Star Challenge at the Center, followed by the All-Star Saturday Night skills showcase Feb. 18. For a full lineup, visit allstarweekendneworleans2017.com

NBA All-Star Weekend

COSTUMING CUSTOMS Move over, Mardi Gras World (p. 49), there’s a new Carnival

Of Vice and Men

collection in town. The Mardi Gras Museum of Costumes

Liquor and lust; it’s a hard-to-resist combo that has helped fuel New Orleans’ reputation as a hedonistic haven over the past 300 years, and one that continues to draw pleasure seekers to Bourbon Street today. Two new books hitting shelves this month examine the city’s licentious allure. In Drink Dat New Orleans (The Countryman Press), Drink + Learn (p. 51) tour guide Elizabeth Pearce (shown above) toasts the city’s liquid lore while imbibing in more than 100 of the city’s most beloved bars. Guidebooks to Sin (The Historic New Orleans Collection) focuses on Storyville, a long-gone section of the city where prostitution was legal during the late 1800s. Using the notorious “blue books,” which advertised the area’s numerous brothels and bars, author Pamela Arceneaux explores the fabled red-light district that paved the way for modern-day Bourbon Street.

January, but rather than floats, here the focus is on Fat Tuesday

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

and Culture (1010 Conti St., 504.949.4009) debuted in early finery. Culled from the private collection of Carl “Mr. Costume” Mack, whose rental shop is connected to the sprawling space, the museum showcases everything from the elaborate outfits worn by krewe royalty to bejeweled Mardi Gras Indian outfits and traditional Cajun country getups. Spotlighting the construction and artistry behind the designs, the museum features a “costume closet,” where visitors are encouraged to explore their own creativity and snap selfies.

You’ll also find the art of costuming on display at the Germaine Cazenave Wells Mardi Gras Museum (p. 52), the Backstreet Cultural Museum (p. 52) and in the Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival time in Louisiana exhibit at the Presbytére (p. 53).

Mardi Gras Museum of Costumes and Culture

(TOP LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (TOP RIGHT) ©NATIONAL BASKETBALL ASSOCIATION; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©2015 CIRQUE DU SOLEIL, PHOTO: JESSE FAATZ, COSTUMES: KYM BARRETT

OUT+ABOUT

CENTER STAGE

FLIGHT OF FANTASY A 15,000 sq.-ft. stage, giant indoor kites, 28 acrobats, a boomerang specialist: Cirque du Soleil has once again raised the bar for performance art with Toruk—The First Flight, which pulls into the Smoothie King Center Feb. 1-5. In “Toruk,” the high-flying acrobatics of Cirque combine with the world of Pandora, the fictional moon that’s the setting for director James Cameron’s big-screen blockbuster “Avatar.” Set 1,000 years before the movie, the storyline follows three Na’vi (the blue-hued, humanlike inhabitants of Pandora) as they set out to save the sacred Tree of Souls.

Huge, human-powered puppets bring viperwolves, woodsprites and other exotic creatures to life, while inflatable screens and high-definition projectors transform the stage into a mythical galaxy far, far away. Even audience members get in on the act via a downloadable app that turns smartphones into part of the lighting design. For tickets, call 800.745.3000.

“Toruk”

Orleans Hot Dish A taste of king cake on restaurant menus.

NEW ORLEANS CAKE CAFÉ Famous for so many delicious things both savory and sweet, Cake Café’s king cakes are always popular and sell out fast. Call ahead to order the apple-goat cheese ring, or ask if they’ve got boudin king cake with bacon-cane syrup topping. There is no wrong; all of the king cakes rule. 2440 Chartres St., 504.943.0010 Carrollton Market

FOOD+DRINK

Chocolate City Boxed chocolates are great, and possibly the most cliché thing to write about in February. That said, New Orleans has loads of divine confectioners crafting beautiful candies (Sucré, Bittersweet Confections, Southern Candymakers). For alternatives to the norm, think outside the box and beyond the bar to restaurants with killer chocolate desserts.

With the return of the Caribbean Room (p. 31) comes “Mile High Pie.” Pastry chef Erin Swanson’s towering wedge of ice cream layers (chocolate, vanilla and fresh mint) with crushed chocolate cookies and a heavy pour of chocolate fudge sauce tastes of nostalgia.

Dining at K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen (p. 29) evokes homey vibes with plates of etouffée and blackened fish. Keep up the coziness with the “Chocolate Hill,” an old-school Bundt cake atop decadent ganache, garnished with white- and dark-chocolate sauce.

Some may debate white chocolate as legit … until spooning into the “White Chocolate Banana Pudding” at Tableau (p. 31). Not convinced? Then there’s an elegant, deep and dark “Three Layered Chocolate Torte” to devour.

At Domenica (p. 23) powdered sugar-dusted chocolate-espresso cookies called brutti are served as lagniappe at meal’s end. At sister

property Willa Jean (p. 24) these same cookies are topped with ice cream and a shot of espresso, and served as affogato.

Chef Jason Goodenough’s Carrollton Market (p. 33) is all charm and unfussy fine dining. A dessert staple he says “cannot ever leave the menu” is the immensely popular, super silky and completely addictive “Milk Chocolate Pot de Crème with Sweet and Salty Beignets and Chantilly.” Eating gluten free? Goodenough will happily make this dessert happen for you.

Frey Smoked Meat Co. (4141 Bienville St., 504.488.7427) is a new Mid-City barbecue joint.

As a finale to tender, smokey meats and savory sides, there are insane milkshakes. The “Cookie Monster” is a giant chocolaty mug of milkshake with whipped cream, chocolate drizzle, cookie crumbles and a cupcake topper.

Or go for the peanut butter and hazelnut-chocolate “Nutella Reese’s.” —Lorin Gaudin

20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

adds, “I’m working on something new with Creole cream cheese.”

900 Royal St., 504.412.8065 BOURBON HOUSE The food here is great, for sure, but come Carnival season the bar busts out its boozy, creamy, cinnamon, almond, orange and vanilla “King Cake” cocktail, which perfectly imitates the flavor of the actual confection. In addition to the adult bevvy, the kitchen whips up Mardi Gras-inspired desserts, such as single-serving sweet dough king cakes and cheese cakes. 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111 —LG

PETITE AMELIE A few years ago owners Danny Akers and Jerry Mixon had a revelatory, throw-your-hat-in-the-air babka moment in Manhattan, which resulted in the unique (plain, chocolate or Nutella) babka king cakes on Petite Amelie’s menu.

Their bakery case has also housed king cake donuts and cupcakes, which they say may make a return appearance this year, and Mixon

Bourbon House

LOUISIANA PURCHASE Local chocolate maven Carol Morse sources cacao from South American growers and Louisiana cane sugar for her bean-tobar business Acalli Chocolates. Using a labor-intensive artisan method, Morse produces a small-but-serious chocolate bar lineup, each with its own flavor profile, all with a decidedly bright fruit acidity. And then there are her dreamy drinking chocolates—rich, smooth cocoas to melt into milk, whisk and serve warm. The 1579 blend is based on a 16th-century Guatemalan recipe, while the “Spicy Drinking Chocolate” adds chili-pepper heat and “The Original” is made with just two ingredients: cocoa and cane sugar. Fair warning: This is life-changing chocolate.

You’ll find it at Arrow Café (p. 25), St. James Cheese Company (p.

24) and acallichocolate.com. —LG

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY/BOURBON HOUSE; (BOTTOM) ©LUKE AULD-THOMAS/ACALLI CHOCOLATES

WHERE NOW New

Antieau Gallery • New Orleans

“Ascension,” 58 x 46.5”, Fabric Appliqué & Thread Painting

THE WORK OF CHRIS ROBERTS-ANTIEAU 927 ROYAL ST, NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 (504) 304-0849 • www.antieaugallery.com OPEN DAILY 10AM - 8PM Antieau Gallery Uptown Located at 4532 Magazine Street, New Orleans

the guide Dining February

Love on the Half Shell

MMMPop

For centuries folklore held that oysters had aphrodisiac qualities. While there is no scientific evidence to support the theory, oysters are a certainty on Valentine’s Day menus all over town. Bourbon House (p. 26) offers three different types of Gulf-grown oysters, while at Seaworthy (p. 24), fresh-shucked local bivalves are joined by East and West Coast varieties. Drago’s (p. 23) woos with its charbroiled beauties, as does Balise (p. 22) with its smoked-fried version and Kenton’s (p. 34) wood-fired oysters with smoked onion and country ham. For a taste of tradition, order the oysters Rockefeller at Antoine’s (p. 25), where the iconic dish originated in 1899.

Southeast Asia meets southeast Louisiana at Maypop (611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345).

The new offshoot of chef Michael Gulotta’s popular MoPho (p. 32) blends elements of New Orleans’ Vietnamese, Cajun, Creole and Sicilian cuisines. Stop in and see why Food + Wine counted Gulotta among the “Best New Chefs” of 2016.

Central Business/ Warehouse District

CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BALISE French. Chef Justin Devillier of La Petite

Grocery and “Top Chef” fame now has a second space in a beautifully restored 1830s building with cool art, smart cocktails and a small menu with depth. Must-haves include the fried smoked oysters and chicken and ricotta dumplings. $$ L (Tu-F), D (M-Su); Sa-Su brunch. www.balisenola.com. 640 Carondelet St., 504.459.4449. Map 3, C5 BORGNE Seafood. At this seafood-centric John

Besh restaurant (helmed by mega-talented chef Brian Landry), fantastic apps (such as duck-andjalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with easy-going sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. $$ L, D (daily). www.borgnerestaurant.

22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

CAFÉ ADELAIDE Louisiana. Chef Meg Bickford

helms the kitchen at this bistro spinoff of Commander’s Palace in the Loews Hotel. Bickford serves up playful takes on modern Creole cuisine.

Try the oyster and pork belly po’ boy. B (daily), L (MF), D (M-Su). www.cafeadelaide.com. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6 CAFÉ CARMO International. This island-inspired

space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious—dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork) and shrimp-filled black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. $ L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.cafecarmo.com. 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6 CAPDEVILLE American. Named for early 1900s

New Orleans mayor Paul Capdeville, this hip and sharply designed space turns out big, juicy burgers, hand-cut fries with delectable toppings (such as chorizo sausage and Manchego cheese) and other fresh spins on classic bar food. $ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.capdevillenola.com. 520 Capdeville St., 504.371.5161. Map 3, C6

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Biderman’s

award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Hand-ground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; house-made mayo and pickles; freshbaked buns. Add a side of hand-cut, twice-cooked fries...and dig in. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St.,

(LEFT) ©RUSH JAGOE/SEAWORTHY; (RIGHT) ©MOPHO

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

com. 601 Loyola Ave. (in the Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504.613.3860. Map 3, C3

THE GUIDE

504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Luicia,

chef Nina Compton’s island roots are evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi.

For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront res-

taurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot is counted among celebrated local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-ofthe-norm antipasta (octopus carpaccio, roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as

lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 DRAGO’S Louisiana. Drago’s has been wow-

ing Metairie diners for four decades. With its riverfront location, it’s now wooing the downtown crowd with its trademark charbroiled oysters and oversized lobster. Save room for the famous cinnamon-topped apple cobbler. $$$ L, D (M-Sa). www.dragosrestaurant.com. 2 Poydras St. (in the Hilton Riverside), 504.584.3911. Map 3, D7; 3232 N. Arnoult Rd., Metairie, 504.888.9254. Map 1, C2 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship

sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (daily). www.emerils.com.

800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 GRILL ROOM Contemporary. Refined yet relaxed,

For an authentic New Orleans experience

the Grill Room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. Excellent wine program. $$$ B, L, D (daily); brunch (Su). www.windsorcourthotel.com.

300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6 HERBSAINT French. James Beard Award-winning

chef Donald Link’s entrées range from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com.

701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chefs (and old friends) John Besh and Aarón Sánchez teamed to create this hip eatery, which puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant. com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery, snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. $ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Sa-Su, brunch. www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 LÜKE International. A throwback to Old World

New Orleans brasseries. German specialties, such as house-made sausage, meld with classic French bistro fare and fresh Louisiana seafood. Extensive wine and beer selections. $$ B, L, D (daily). www. lukeneworleans.com. 333 St. Charles Ave. (in the Hilton St. Charles hotel), 504.378.2840. Map 3, D4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

Located in the heart of the French Quarter www.FrenchQuarter-Dining.com

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6

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THE GUIDE

POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap, live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. Live music Sa-Su. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT AUGUST French. In New Orleans,

chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a vision. The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 REVELATOR Coffee. Sleek, chic and perfect for

the coffee (juice or tea) geek. The baristas here are friendly educators who share their passion for impeccably sourced beans roasted to spec. $ B, L (daily). www.revelatorcoffee.com. 637 Tchoupitoulas St., 205.224.5900. Map 3, C6 RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE Steaks. Founded

in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb, sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.ruthschris.com. 525 Fulton St., 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6 SACALAIT Louisiana. Chefs Cody and Samantha

Carroll bring country dishes with a city spin. Proof: a mildly wild-tasting turtle boudin over duck-egg risotto with sherry sauce piquant, frog leg-and-alligator gumbo with potato salad or slate-blackened redfish with shrimp dirty rice. $$$ L (F), D (Tu-Su). www.sac-a-laitrestaurant.com. 1051 Annunciation St., 504.324.3658. Map 3, B7 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s award-winning Grand Banks oyster bar cast a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a wide wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (daily). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St. James

is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. Dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. $ L (M-Su), D (M-Sa). www.stjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4 TOMMY G’S PIZZERIA & BAR Italian. Convenient

to the Convention Center, this casual spot serves subs, a variety of pasta entrees, house-made lasagna, calzones and pizza whole or by the slice. $ L, D, (daily). www.tommygspizzeria.com. 901 Convention Center Blvd., 504.561.8881. Map 3, C8

24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and lamb pot pie. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City CASA BORREGA Mexican. This funky space

serves up some seriously authentic Mexican fare. Handmade tortillas are topped with brisket, pescado (grilled trout) and citrus-marinated

pork, while the bar turns out tequila-punched cocktails. $$ B, L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa); Sa brunch. www. casaborrega.com. 1719 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.427.0654. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 PRIMITIVOAmerican. “Open hearth, urban cave-

man cooking” is the concept here. Inspired by

DINING

backyard grill-offs, the menu changes often with dishes such as smoked oysters with green tomato chow chow and rib eye with bone-marrow butter. $$ D (M-Sa). www.primitivonola.com. 1800 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.881.1775. Map 1, D3 ROUX CARRÉ Eclectic. A food port for emerging

businesses representing New Orleans’ diverse culinary culture. Vendors include Diva Dawg, Estralita’s Express, Johnny’s Jamaican Grill, Black Swan Food Experience and the Pupusa Lady. $ L (daily), D (F-Sa). www.rouxcarre.com. 2000 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.309.2073. Map 1, D3 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. Since 1910,

Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell.

Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’ boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6

ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the Gulf shrimp and country ham with butterbeans and sweet potatoes. $$$ D (W-Su); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola.com.

1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com.

713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 ARROW CAFÉ Coffee. This shop merges coffee

service with vintage housewares and locally made gift tems. Grab an excellently pulled espresso and a savory scone, along with a set of gold-flocked highball glasses. $ B, L (daily). 628 N. Rampart St., 504.410.5647. Map 3, G3

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................22

Central City..................................................................................................24 French Quarter........................................................................................25 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 31 Marigny/Bywater............................................................................ .......32 Mid-City..........................................................................................................32 Uptown..........................................................................................................33

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w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

B.B. KING’S BLUES CLUBSouthern. The music

334 Royal St

7:00am-10:00pm

311 Bourbon St 8:00am-Midnight

and lasting legacy of the late “King of the Blues” lives on at the local branch of his Memphisbased supper club. In addition to its trademark barbecue, the menu features a variety of New Orleans classics. Live entertainment daily. $$ L, D (daily). www.bbkingblues.com. 1104 Decatur St., 504.934.5464. Map 3, H5 BACKSPACE BAR & KITCHEN American. Typewrit-

Photo: Kaela Rodehorst Williams

ers and books line the walls of this comfy spot, which pays homage to the French Quarter’s rich literary legacy. The bar serves drinks fashioned after famed authors’ faves, while the kitchen offers gumbo and sandwiches. Try the “Whitman,” roast beef with fried oysters and Swiss on ciabatta. $ L, D (daily). www.backspacenola.com. 139 Chartres St., 504.322.2245. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4

Beignets, Coffees, breakfast & lunch menus, with “Local Libations” at the Bourbon Street location!

www.cafebeignet.com

BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (M-Su). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Recently renovated,

Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Neal Swindler serves up modern Creole cuisine (crab croquettes with mango glaze, Caribbean fish du jour with smoked black bean sauce), along with Old World classics. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.broussards. com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana. Located in a gorgeous

French Quarter courtyard and carriage house that was once home to Alice Heine, America’s first Princess of Monaco, this is the perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle, satsuma-pepper glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L (W-Su), D (W-Su); Sa-Su brunch. A quick-service offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 412-8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and

delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D

26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

Where do you want to o Find the best of the city

DINING

(daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CAFÉ SBISA Creole. Dating to 1899, the city’s

third-oldest fine-dining venue is the perfect setting for chef Alfred Singleton’s French-Creole classics.

Turtle soup, courtbouillon, crab-topped paneed veal; the gumbo may change daily, but Old World charm is always on the menu. $$$ (W-Su); brunch (Sa-Su). www.cafesbisanola.com. 1011 Decatur St., 504.522.5565. Map 3, H5 CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restau-

rant provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails, such as the Bombo, are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as jerk chicken, plantain dumplings and deep-fried ribs with papaya chutney. $$ L (F), D (nightly); brunch, Sa-Su. www.caneandtablenola.com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L, D (Daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The

French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the baby back ribs, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and fresh grilled redfish with soft-shell crab. Live jazz nightly (no cover). $$ L, D (daily). www.crescentcitybrewhouse. com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5 CRIOLLO Louisiana. Spanish for “Creole,” Criollo’s

menu is globally inspired with locally sourced ingredients, reflecting the blending of cultures that form the foundation of Crescent City dining.

The evidence is found in such dishes as sugarcanemarinated pork tenderloin and crawfish flatbread with eggplant caviar. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.criollonola.com. 214 Royal St. (in the Hotel Monteleone), 504.681.4444. Map 1, E4 CROISSANT D’OR PATISSERIE Bakery. Abandon

all hope of counting calories, ye who enter here.

This venerable pastry shop produces a stunning array of buttery croissants, fresh fruit danishes and any number of dreamy creations devised from storehouses of chocolate, cream and magic.

Savory dishes are also available, along with a variety of coffees. $ B, L (W-M). 617 Ursuline Ave., 504.524.4663. Map 3, H4 DESIRE OYSTER BAR Louisiana. In addition to its

trademark oysters on the half shell, this Bourbon Street bistro serves up Belgian waffles, po’ boys, burgers and entrées such as crawfish etouffeé and w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

shrimp and grits. $ B, L, D (daily). www.sonesta. com. 300 Bourbon St. (in the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.586.0300. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue ribeye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. Save room for the killer coconut cake. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop featuring superior quality dry-aged meats. A full remodel of the historic space is alone worth a visit, though the hungerinducing menu also impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ D (nightly), L (F-Su). www.dorismetropolitan. com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 EL GATO NEGRO Mexican. This popular cantina

turns out some the most authentic south-ofthe-border fare in the city. The ingredients are fresh, tortillas are made to order and the handsqueezed maragaritas are a must. $$ L, D (daily). www.elgatonegronola.com. 81 French Market Place, 504.525.9752. Map 3, I5; 800 S. Peters St., 504.309.8864. Map 3, C7; 300 Harrison Ave., 504.488.0107. Map 1, D2 EL LIBRE Cuban. Of course there are rum-based

cocktails and sturdy-sweet coffee on the menu at this tiny Cuban café, but there’s also day-long food in the guise of pressed sandwiches. The signature “Cubano” is best capped off with “Drunken Tres Leches Cake” for dessert. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.ellibrenola.com. 508 Dumaine St., 504.309.2699. Map 3, H5 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GALATOIRE’S 33 BAR & STEAK Steaks. This

modern-day steakhouse adds a new chapter to Galatoire’s century-old story. Craft cocktails and USDA prime cuts are the focus, along with beef Wellington, lobster Thermidor and classic sides.

The handsome space also features an elegantly appointed bar and private dining rooms. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www.galatoires33barandsteak.com. 215 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GREEN GODDESS Eclectic. Chef Paul Artigues

creates big-flavored, adventurous dishes in the tiny kitchen of this intimate Exchange Alley gem.

Possibly the only place in town you’ll find beet hummus and truffle grits sharing menu space with wild-boar meatloaf and decadent bacon sundaes. $ L, D (W-Su). www.greengoddessrestaurant.com.

307 Exchange Pl., 504.301.3347. Map 3, E4 GUMBO SHOP Creole. Housed in a circa-1794

building, the Gumbo Shop features traditional and contemporary Creole cuisine, including several types of gumbos, etouffée, jambalaya and other Louisiana favorites. A variety of fresh fish, from amberjack to tuna, is offered, as are more than 30 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

wines by the glass. $ L, D (daily). www.gumboshop. com. 630 St. Peter St., 504.525.1486. Map 3, G4 GW FINS Seafood. Owners Gary Wollerman and

chef Tenney Flynn have taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional

and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet, Fats Domino’s autographed piano top and Madonna’s G-string. Live music four nights a week. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic

and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. Think of the tight quarters as “cozy” and the long wait (no reserva-

DINING

tions) as part of the charm. $$ D (M-Sa). 539 St. Philip St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, H5 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ Dauphine St.: B, L (W-M); Conti St.: L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys.com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa- Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LATITUDE 29 Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru

Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s seriously cool, newschool tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Island flurishes, brilliant bartenders and chefs with a strong local following make this one a winner. $$ (L, D) Tu-Su. www.latitude29nola. com. 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Live Jazz • Real Food • Serious Beer 527 Decatur St. • 504.522.0571 www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com

Live Jazz Nightly (no cover)

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole. Overlooking

Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Gus Martin’s contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfishand-goat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

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drum and pain perdu bread pudding. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (Daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro is a perennial hot spot. The menu is filled with Emeril creations such as Louisiana crab cakes with Creole tartar sauce, pork cheek boudin balls with tomato-bacon jam and a grilled double-cut pork chop with pecan-glazed sweet potatoes. $$ L (Th-M), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 PELICAN CLUB Louisiana. A well-kept secret of sav-

vy gourmets. Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors.

The seared tuna with Gulf shrimp is excellent, as are the roasted baby lamb rack, filet of tenderloin with wild mushroom sauce. Try the seafood martini appetizer. $$ D (daily). www.pelicanclub.com. 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated; try the turtle soup, shrimp remoulade or oysters from the raw bar. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

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RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.revolutionnola.com.

777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. Pastry chef extraordi-

naire Tariq Hanna’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for afternoon tea, a glass of wine and daily protein selections that can be ordered as an app or main course.

Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Brunch, D (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com.

622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south

of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B, L, D (daily). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 SPITFIRE COFFEE Coffee. Short on space but big

on flavor, this third-wave coffee shop, just off Jackson Square, is heating things up with hand-pulled espressos and custom-crafted brews. $ Open daily. www.spitfirecoffee.com. 627 St. Peter St., 225.384.0655. Map 3, F4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambi-

ance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner.

The adventuresome can try the Korean beef po’ boy or the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, corned beef hash and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 TRINITY Louisiana. The menu here pays homage

to the “trinity” of flavors, elements and techniques in New Orleans cuisine. Hush puppies get richness from duck fat, while the cucumber salad refreshes with crisp apples and pairs perfectly with the citrusy seared snapper. $$$ D (nightly). www. trinityrestaurantneworleans.com. 1117 Decatur St., 504.325.5789. Map 3, I5

Garden District/ Lower Garden District CARIBBEAN ROOM Eclectic. This Garden District

gem, shuttered since the 1990s, was recently reopened by John Besh with chef Chris Lusk at the helm. Like the décor, the menu melds old and w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

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new, with long-popular favorites like Mile High Pie joining modern additions, such as wagyu beef and beet tartare. Jackets required; jeans discouraged. $$$ L (F), D (daily); Su brunch. www. thecaribbeanroom.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3 COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes and decadent chocolate beignets making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 EMERIL’S DELMONICO Creole. Located on the St.

Charles streetcar line, this elegant circa-1895 restaurant now serves chef Emeril Lagasse’s modern takes on Creole classics. Start with the housemade charcuterie, before moving on to dry-aged steaks, shrimp Bordelaise or reinvented drum meunière. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com.

1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937. Map 1, D3 MIYAKO SUSHI BAR & HIBACHI Japanese. Hiba-

chis are the draw here, but sushi lovers will be just as happy. Dexterous hibachi chefs wow guests, preparing lobster, prime rib, scallops and more.

Sushi, sashimi and tempura are also on the menu. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.miyakonola.com. 1403 St. Charles Ave., 504.410.9997. Map 1, D3 ROOT/SQUARE ROOT Contemporary. Two hip res-

taurants in one. Upstairs the focus is on chef Phillip Lopez’s contemporary twists on culinary standards and creative charcuterie. Downstairs centers around 16 seats flanking an open kitchen and Lopez’s multi-course tasting menu (online reservations only). $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.squarerootnola. com. 1800 Magazine St., 504.309.7800. Map 1, D4 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti. St., 504.708.4366. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches

are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and hot mustard, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L, D (W-Su). www.turkeyandthewolf. com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. A Sunday-only treasure no

more. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is now a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Up32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

stairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 ELIZABETH’S American. “Real food done real

good” is the motto at this homey neighborhood spot, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. $$ B, L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa); brunch (Sa-Su). www.elizabeths-restaurant.com. 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3 THE JOINT Barbecue. This funky Bywater fave

is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. Featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.alwayssmokin.com. 701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3 MARIZA Italian. Chef/owner Ian Schnoebelen’s

cozy-chic Italian-inspired space in the trendy Rice Mill Lofts. Try the goat-ricotta bruschetta, yellowfin tuna carpaccio or black linguini with shrimp and crab. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.marizaneworleans.com.

2900 Chartres St., 504.598.5700. Map 1, E3 N7 French. This quiet, tucked-away bistro is named

for France’s Route Nationale 7. The menu is divided into plated dishes (steamed mussels, hangar steak with crushed potatoes) and specialty tinned seafood. A lovely wine list, great music and fine service equate to total charm. $$ D (M-Sa). 1117 Montegut St., no phone. Map 1, E3 NEW ORLEANS CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY Dessert.

Steven “the Cake Man” Himelfarb offers breakfast and lunch at his charming Bywater café, but it’s cake that’s the beloved baker’s calling card.

Bananas Foster with banana icing, classic red velvet—yummy. $$ B, L (W-M). www.nolacakes.com.

2440 Chartres St., 504.943.0010. Map 3, K6 OXALIS Contemporary. While the bar at this cool,

rambling space focuses heavily on whiskey, the kitchen is “bar forward,” turning out small plates of house-made charcuterie, Korean-style chicken wings and a variety of veggie options. Even better, nothing on the menu tops $20. $ D (nightly); Su brunch. www.oxalisbywater.com. 3162 Dauphine St., 504.267.4776. Map 1, E3 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au natural. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); brunch (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian. This pop-up pizzeria

grew so popular that it now has its own brickand-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.pizzadelcious.com. 617 Piety St.,, 504.676.8482. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at

its best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com.

542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 SATSUMA CAFÉ Eclectic. At this hipster hangout

vegan and veg-friendly dishes, such as chilled corn-and-lime soup and goat cheese-stuffed French toast, are the draw, along with stunning

fresh-pressed vegetable and fruit juices. $ B, L (daily). www.satsumacafe.com. 3218 Dauphine St., 504.304.5962. Map 1, E3; 7901 Maple St., 504.309.5557. Map 1, D3 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3 THREE MUSES Eclectic. This Frenchmen Street

hot spot offers a clubby vibe, live music, smart cocktails and amazing eats. Raves are drawn for the menu’s variety and chef Daniel Esses’ stellar preparations of small plate-portioned lamb sliders, feta fries and a stunning rendition of braised pork belly atop a crisp scallion pancake. $ D (W-M). www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 BROWN BUTTER SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR Southern. This tucked-away gem serves up

creative eats with Bible Belt roots. Evidence: pimento cheese crostini with apple and pecans and braised short ribs with grits and boiled peanut salad. $$ L (F), D (Th-Sa); Sa-Su brunch. www. brownbutterrestaurant.com. 231 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.609.3871. Map 1, D2 CAFÉ NOMA Contemporary. Located within the

New Orleans Museum of Art, Ralph Brennan’s contemporary bistro offers an artful mix of small plates, soups, salads and sandwiches. $ L (Tu-Su), D (F). www.cafenoma.com. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.482.1264. Map 1, D2 DOOKY CHASE Creole. One of the oldest African-

American restaurants in the nation. Chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” has built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as her seemingly simple red beans and rice, steaming gumbo and crispy-yet-tender fried chicken. $$ L (Tu-F), D (F). www.dookychaserestaurant. com. 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3 MOPHO Vietnamese. Chef Mike Gulotta rocks

modern Vietnamese-inspired dishes at his naughty-named restaurant near the Canal streetcar line. The sweet-and-spicy chicken wings and pepper jelly-glazed clams are must-haves. $$ L, D (daily). www.mophonola.com. 514 City Park Ave., 504.482.6845. Map 1, D2 PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN Louisiana. The

menu here is long but simple: po’ boys and more po’ boys. They come as “large” (translation: gargantuan) or “small” (large). Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, ham, turkey, catfish, meatballs and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list. $ L, D (W-M). www.parkwaypoorboys.com. 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran

restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally

DINING

inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 REVEL CAFÉ & BAR Eclectic. Cocktail guru Chris

McMillian, wife Laura and their family run this casual café with an in-house bread program (thank you son-in-law Jose), a sandwich-heavy menu (get the crawfish grilled cheese) and, of course, great craft cocktails. $ L, D (Tu-Sa). 133 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.309.3612. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with eggplant and cranberries, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragou. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great off-the-

beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathaniel Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’ boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 BRIGTSEN’S Creole. Secluded in the Riverbend

neighborhood, Brigtsen’s has a lower profile than many other first-rank local restaurants. A protegé of Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen’s food is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.brigtsens.com. 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3 CAMELLIA GRILL American. Say burger in New Or-

leans, and Camellia Grill instantly comes to mind.

Why? Juicy cheeseburgers, crispy fries and savory chili at one of the most coveted lunch (and dinner) counters in the city—that’s why. $ B, L, D (daily).

626 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.309.2679. Map 1, C3; 540 Chartres St., 504.522.1800. Map 3, G4 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s Riverbend restaurant is light and airy. His market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.carrolltonmarket.com.

8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 3, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beauti-

ful deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Ben Thibodeaux’s casual coastal cuisine. Start with the scallop crudo or crab-and-avocado toast, before moving on to the seared Gulf fish. Or just grab a cocktail at the bar, while munching on Old Bay-seasoned fries. $$ B (F-Su), D (nightly). www.cavannola. com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE

DEL FUEGO Mexican. Chef David Wright’s ramped-

up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during his travels to Mexico. House-made tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.delfuegotaqueria. com. 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797. Map 1, D4

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. What once was a

corner grocery has been exquisitely transformed into an intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.lapetitegrocery.com.

4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR

LILETTE French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and

feels French, but makes a mean Italian eggplant Parmigiano as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.liletterestaurant.com. 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4

streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

PASCAL’S MANALE American. A New Orleans

landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food.

Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4

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PATOIS Louisiana. Chef Aaron Burgau has earned

all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a young man “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Su brunch. www.patoisnola.com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

Israel at this modern Mediterranean eatery from chef Alon Shaya of restaurant Domenica fame.

Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant. com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 SLICE Italian. As its name suggests, this popular

pizzeria offers New York-style pies by the slice, as well as whole. Along with a large selection of top-notch toppings (Gulf shrimp, grilled salmon, andouille sausage), pasta dishes, calzones and subs are featured, in addition to soups, salads, beer and wine. $ L, D (daily). www.slicepizzeria. com. 5538 Magazine St., 504.897.4800. Map 1, D4; 1513 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.7437. Map 1, D3 TAL’S HUMMUS Mediterranean. Soft, spongy pita

fresh from the oven is a great vehicle for this Israeli restaurant’s creamy hummus, while the tendercrunchy falafel is extra delicious dragged through silky sesame tahini and beef kabobs are cooled by yogurt sauce. The baklava is sticky, nutty, decadence. $ L, D (daily). www.ordertalsonline.com.

4800 Magazine St., 504.267.7357. Map 1, D4 34 W H E R E XC I T Y I M O N T X 2 01 X

8132 Hampson St. 504.252.9928 carrolltonmarket.com

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THE GUIDE

Shopping Shopping February

Books & Music BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel Soldiers’ Pay. First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings.

Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing ©SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

AMERICAN APPAREL Everyone needs those

wardrobe staples—basic Ts and tanks, jeans and sweats—and that’s exactly what you’ll find (in just about any color you can image) at the local branch of this international chain. www.americanapparel. net. 3310 Magazine St., 504.895.4970. Map 1, D4

BALLIN’S The latest fashions-from

cocktail attire to sportswear-from such well-known designers as Marisa Baratelli, Vera Wang, Lafayette 148 and Laundry, as well as accessories. www.ballinsltd.com. 721 Dante St., 504.866.4367. Map 1, C3

Fashionable Forward “Athletes get a lot of TV coverage, especially if it’s a big game,” says New Orleans Pelican Anthony Davis, who plays three home games this month and takes part in the NBA All-Star Weekend (p. 18). “That time is yours to show your fashion to the world.” All-Star attendees will also see Davis’ fashion on the racks at Saks Fifth Avenue, which recently collaborated with “The Brow” on a line of limitededition athleisure wear. “Being 6’10”, it’s really tough to find clothes, even more so luxury fashion,” says Davis, dressed in reinforced-knee sweatpants and a two-tone T from the collection, which also includes hoodies, neoprene shorts and bomber jackets. “I tried to bring my style to the fashion world—simple, but elegant as well.” Saks Fifth Avenue, The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 504.524.2200

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans

couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 FLEURTY GIRL When Lauren Thom began printing

T-shirts in her kitchen in 2009 little did she know just how big the small venture would quickly become. Today her popular designs celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net.

3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3 FUNKY MONKEY Come Halloween and Carnival

season the line to get in this vintage clothing shop

can stretch clear down the block. Once inside you’ll understand why. This place is packed with kitschy castoffs that make for great costumes, along with new apparel at reasonable prices. 3127 Magazine St., 504.899.5587. Map 1, D4

H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-toresist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www. hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3308 Magazine St., 504.269.4005. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 KIT AND ACEThis lululemon offshoot is known for

its line of “technical cashmere” clothing. Geared to both sexes, the chic shop’s luxe street wear is both versatile and machine-washable. www.kitandace. com. 3913 Magazine St., 844.548.6223. Map 1, D4 LOST AND FOUND What you’ll find at this fun

French Quarter shop is a constantly changing inventory of women’s clothing and accessories mixed with offbeat gift items. www.lostandfoundnola. com. 323 Chartres St., 504.595.6745. Map 3, F4

MORE THAN 750,000 king cakes are sold (and shipped) by New Orleans bakeries each Carnival season between Twelfth Night (Jan. 6) and Mardi Gras Day. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 35

THE GUIDE

SHOPPING

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www. louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 35

Clothing........................................................................................................ 35 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 36 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 36 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 38 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 39 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 40 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 40 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 40 Shoes............................................................................................................... 41 Special Services...................................................................................... 41 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child

at this upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls. www.pippenlane.com. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4 RUBENSTEIN’S The Rubenstein family has been

outfitting locals since 1924. But the fashions here are anything but dated: Zegna, Canali and Paul Smith are just a sampling of the designers in stock. www.rubensteinsneworleans.com. 102 St. Charles Ave., 504.581.6666. Map 3, E4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4 WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European womenswear,

from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by such leading designers as Piazza Sempione and Stella McCartney. www.weinsteinsinc.com. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including

designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM

Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré. www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything form clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop which offers hand-crafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

everything from toys and kitchen accessories to sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. are also available. www.ideafactoryneworleans.com.

924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 THE MASK GALLERYAustrian crystals, hand-

tolled leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations. 841 Royal St., 504.523.6664. Map 3, F4 MASKARADE A small shop offering one of the larg-

est selections of Venetian masks in the country, in addition to hundreds of handmade masks by local and international artists. www.themaskstore.com.

630 St. Ann St., 504.568.1018. Map 3, G4 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 MOONSHINE NETTIE Kicked-up kitsch is the trade-

mark of this women’s boutique. Vintage clothing,

funky jewelry, glitter makeup, tutus, tiaras—if it’s fun and fab, you’ll find it here. 901 Chartres St., 504.523.7625. Map 3, H4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 PLUM This hip home and gift shop is devoted to

“cool stuff for stylish living,” much of which is created by local crafters. Handmade housewares, artful accents, jazzy jewelry: If it’s both fun and functional, you’ll likely find it here. www.plumneworleans.com.

1914 Magazine St., 504.897.3388. Map 1, D4 RAZZLE DAZZLE Searching for great gift items?

Step into this French Quarter boutique, where Mardi Gras masks and collectibles are coupled with jewerly, locally made candles, seasonal home accents and more. www.razzledazzle.com. 742 Royal St., 504.568.0001. Map 3, G4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 ROYAL MASK In the market for Mardi Gras masks?

You’ll find plenty here, from traditional Venetian varieties to towering feathered creations. 841 Royal St., 504.913.6646. Map 3, H4 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS Crescent City

confectioner Cheryl Scripter has built a strong following with her incredible truffle collections. Her Warehouse District location also offers fresh morning pastries, coffees and teas, along with delicious cakes, cookies, dipped fruits, toffees and handmade nonparelis. www.bittersweetconfections. com. 725 Magazine St., 504.523.2626. Map 3, C6 KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy

THE GUIDE

tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.809.1026. Map 1, D4 LAURA’S CANDIES Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on buying from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 VOM FASS Pop into this local branch of the growing

German chain of condiment stores, and taste your way through several walls of wonderful oils, vinegars and spirits. Select from a wild array of “from the cask” flavors—from chili-fig vinegar to nutty pistachio oil. www.vomfassusa.com. 29 Carondelet St., 504.302.1455. Map 3, E4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2

Hats & Accessories FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. Worldwide shipping is available.

Located just off Canal Street. www.meyerthehatter. com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4 WEHMEIER’S This emporium stocks a wide

variety of super-premium items in exotic leathers, including alligator, ostrich and lizard belts, bags and accessories. Fine leather boots for both men and women from Lucchese, Old Gringo and Lane are featured. www.wehmeiers.com.

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vintage CHANEL

SHOPPING

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.681.2082. Map 3, E5

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 BELLADONNA DAY SPA Attempting to cover the

entire six-mile stretch of Magazine Street can run even the most ardent shopper ragged. Thankfully, Belladonna sits at the halfway point, providing rejuvenation before heading back out on the hunt. www.belladonnadayspa.com. 2900 Magazine St., 504.891.4393. Map 1, D4

YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY

719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222 Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET

FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., level A. Map 3, D7; 140 Carondelet St. Map 3, D3 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

123 Baronne St., 504.335.3190. Map 3, E3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City

branch of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments—reflexology, volcanic stone massages, seaweed wraps, w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 39

THE GUIDE

expresso-mud scrubs—along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www. neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 COUTELIER Form and function combine at this Riv-

erbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are knife-sharpening services, cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks.com. 8239 Oak Street, 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 RD HOME Contemporary furnishings and table-

ware meld with estate pieces at this home decor shop. www.razzledazzle.com. 2014 Magazine St., 504.523.9525. Map 1, D4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 SHAUN SMITH HOME “Simplicity is at the core of

my aesthetic sense,” says designer Shaun Smith, whose chic home boutique is a study in the art of blending styles and periods. Vamped-up vintage furnishings meld seamlessly with modern designs. Select art and accessories is also featured. www.shaunsmithhome.com. 3947 Magazine St., 504.896.1020. Map 1, D4 SPRUCE Does your space need a spruce up? Start

by stopping in at this eco-conscious interiors studio. Funky fabrics, one-of-a-kind wallpaper and design consultation services are offered. www.sprucenola.com. 2043 Magazine St., 504.265.0946. Map 1, D4

Jewelry ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich cre-

ates handmade jewelry on site at this small space in the Rink shopping center. New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, streetcars) and bits of nature (leaf and bone imprints) are featured in her designs and

40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

works by national crafters. www.adornandconquer. com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.702.8036. Map 1, D4 ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St.

Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs de lis are prominent, with more than 75 different designs featured. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE DU OPTIC Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett

has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.kreweduoptic.com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

Mid-Century Modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to friends, or to themselves and then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4 WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely

devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, along with new designer lines such as Thistle & Bee. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

Malls/Major Retailers JAX BREWERY This 1891 brewhouse is now a

riverfront marketplace with three levels of shops and restaurants. www.jacksonbrewery.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.566.7245. Map 3, G5 LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city

SHOPPING

and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2

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THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Canal Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within walking distance of the CBD and French Quarter. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

books, toys, gifts & apparel

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GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2

www.facebook.com/nolakids

St. a r tre s 333 Ch 6.134 0 6 5 0 4.5 aily Open d

DONALD J. PLINER This Canal Place retailer is

devoted to shoes, handbags and accessories from designer Donald J. Pliner. www.donaldjpliner.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.522.1720. Map 3, E5

FOR INFANTS, TODDLERS AND CHILDREN

nola kids

Shoes

JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction” of-

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fers high-fashion women’s shoes without the high prices that usually accompany them. Get a step ahead with a large selection of cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In

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addition to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility offers Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.com. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4

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PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4

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ROYAL MAIL SERVICE Can’t fit all the goodies

you bought into the overhead bin? Send them home via this postal center, which offers DHL, Federal Express and UPS pickups. 828 Royal St., 504.522.8523. Map 3, H4

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THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques Catch This What to do with all of those beads you caught at the parades? Stop by the new Gallery Two (831 Royal St., 504.513.8312) for a little inspiration. “Beads form the backbone of the materials I use,” says Illinois-based artist Betsy Youngquist, whose stunning mosaic sculptures incorporate vintage beads, antique porcelain doll parts, prosthetic glass eyes and other repurposed objects. “The colorful, textured threedimensional nature of beadwork allows me to explore the world of detail,” she adds.

Part animal/part human, Youngquist’s surrealistic, anthropomorphic figures are all amazingly intricate. The gallery is also home to the whimsical sculptural jewelry of friend and fellow Midwesterner Ann Marie Cianciolo, who, like Youngquist, has garnered a large local following exhibiting at Jazzfest in recent years. Hey, mister—throw us one of these!

Central Business/ Warehouse District ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 608 Julia St., 504.309.0394. Map 3, C5 ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contem-

©GALLERY TWO

porary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are featured. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international

artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary.com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6

There’s a lot more going on on this this month.

FebruVisit us online: ary. wheretraveler.com Visit us online:

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This

gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery. com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured. www.martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as

well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com.

400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6

STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent exhibition space for AfricanAmerican artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www. stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Steve Taylor, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com.

241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern

France on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18thcentury antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive

ARTISTS HAVE BEEN GATHERING around Jackson Square’s cast-iron fence for more than half a century, making it the city’s oldest—and largest—art gallery. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 43

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 43

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 43 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................46 Other Locations .................................................................................... 46

jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4; 611 & 619 Royal St. Map 3, G4 ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works by dozens of regional artists. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here.

Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

623 royAL street

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504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

THE GUIDE

an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. D4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in objects

for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MARTIN WELCH ART Martin “the Crab Man” Welch

has been capturing crustaceans on canvas since 2002. His brightly hued, sea-themed works have been showcased at the New Orleans Museum of Art as well as on the HBO series “Treme.” www.martinwelchart.com. 223 Dauphine St., 504.388.4240. Map 3, F3 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS This boutique has

specializes in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate.

A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www.neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue

46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

Place to Perch | 60” x 36”

Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for history and Hollywood

buffs, this hip shop is filled with maps, signed collectibles and one-of-a-kind jewelry. Marilyn Monroe glamour pics, first-edition novels and assorted music memorabilia are among the many offerings.

329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine

works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by ToulouseLautrec. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 GARDEN DISTRICT GALLERY This gallery, located

near Commander’s Palace restaurant, features rotating exhibits by local, regional and national artists. www.gardendistrictgallery.com. 1332 Washington Ave., 504.891.3032. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with it pop-art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O The showplace of

“techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of designers. www.thomasmann.com.

1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2113. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture found here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Paul Schaffer, Mariah Carey and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net. 3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKET This plein air art market

fills an alley tucked among Frenchmen Street’s famed music halls. From handcrafted jewelery to handmade soaps to folk art, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares. Open Th-Su, 7 pm-1 am. 619 Frenchmen St., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5 ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8

A PICTURE AND A THOUSAND WORDS

AN E XH I B I T I O N O N V I E W T H R O U G H M AR C H 2 5 , 2 0 1 7 F R E E AD M I S S I O N

A Louisiana native, Clarence John Laughlin began his career as photographer in the 1930s, eventually emerging as one of America’s pioneers in surrealist and experimental photography.

This exhibition displays the enigmatic photographer’s letters to and from fellow artists, writers, editors, and curators alongside the prints he exchanged with his photographer contemporaries.

Clarence John Laughlin, 1974, by Michael P. Smith; THNOC, gift of Mrs. Clarence John Laughlin, 2006.0019.1.50

Williams Research Center 410 Chartres Street in the French Quarter Tuesday–Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. | Closed February 25–28, 2017 (504) 523-4662 | www.hnoc.org @visit_thnoc | #discoverlaughlin

FEBRUARY 16 – MAY 21, 2017

Pietro Longhi, The Seller of Essences, 1750 – 1752, Oil on canvas, Venice, Ca’ Rezzonico

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THE GUIDE

Entertainment

The Feminist Touch

Swamp Thing

Newcomb College, the former women’s division of Tulane University, is famed for the Arts and Crafts pottery its students turned out during the early 20th century. Today you’ll find examples of the highly collectible objects on view at the Newcomb Art Museum (p. 53), along with Mickalene Thomas: Waiting On Prime-Time Star. The ongoing exhibit spotlights more than 40 works by the internationally acclaimed mixed-media artist that celebrate the power of women, while redefining the concept of gender. Counted among museum collections nationwide, Thomas’ portraits meld historical art references with pop influences, painting a thoroughly modern depiction of 21st-century femininity.

Need a little nature? Set off on a high-speed Airboat Adventures (p. 50) tour through 20,000 acres of cypress swamp for up-close encounters with alligators, egrets and other beasts of the Southern wild. Opt for an early morning outing when the wildlife is hungry for company. Ever petted a gator?

You will.

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $24.95 adults, $18.95 seniors and $18.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM Located in the circa-1860 U.S. Custom

House, this ranks as the nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $19.95 adults, $14.95 seniors, $14.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

ENTERGY GIANT SCREEN THEATER

1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Eye-popping features are shown on a Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. five-and-a-half-story screen. $10.50 adults, wheretraveler.com $19.95 adults, $14.95 seniors, $14.95 $9.50 seniors, $8 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from daily; call for schedule and closing times.

St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Opens at 10 Eye-popping features are shown on a five-andam daily; call for closing times. www.audubona-half-story screen. $10.50 adults, $9.50 seniors, $8 institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for schedule 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 and closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org.

Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, 1 Canal St., CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 of the dead” act as windows on the past, offering FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market insight into local history and customs. St. Louis dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown No. 1, just outside the Quarter, is the city’s oldest; specialties, the market also features a number of Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Place, of her works there. Many are located in high-crime 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night.

HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush located at the foot of Canal Street. This mamcanopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, moth pleasure palace features five New Orleanslarger even than New York’s Central Park. www. themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., table games, live entertainment and a lavish 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or originally known as Place d’Armes, and was reclimb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres named to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter to op. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers jogging and biking paths, a dog run and picture-perfect LAFITTE GREENWAYThis 2.6-mile bike and pedespicnic areas www.crescentparknola.org. Map 3, J6 trian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park.

DURING MARDI GRAS 2016, 819 floats rolled through the streets of New Orleans and more than 142,000 visitors passed through Armstrong International Airport.

48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

(LEFT) ©NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Attractions & Landmarks

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The ADA-compliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. www.lafittegreenway.org. . Map 3, F2 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

Party with the Krewe at Pat O’Briens!

Where It’s

Party Gras all the time!

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3

tio Mardi Gras on The Pa

NEW ORLEANS BOTANICAL & TRAIN GARDENS

City Park’s beautiful Botanical Gardens feature more than 2,000 tropical and subtropical plants, along with the Historic Train Garden, a miniature railroad exhibit with landmarks constructed of botanical matter. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm; train garden, weekends only. $6 adults, $3 children. www.neworleanscitypark.com. Victory Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MARKET Part concert hall/

Dine at our Cour tyard

Restaurant

coffee shop/community center, this multifaceted facility throws the spotlight on both the city’s jazz legends and rising stars. phnojm.org. 1436 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.371.5849. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.588.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 49

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 69-71.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................48 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................50 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 52 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 54 Dance Clubs................................................................................................56 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 56

Catholic Church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 THE THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-

of-the-art movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining from its in-house Gusto Café and Bar. www.thetheatres.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

group city and plantation tours, in addition to private excursions. Hotel pickups available; rates vary. www.celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

YOUR EVENT WILL BE CELEBRATED IN HISTORY. H ERMA NN- G RIMA H O US E NEW O RL EANS ’ H IS T O RIC EVENT S ET T ING .

820 saint louis street | events@hgghh.org hgghh.org

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 CRESCENT CITY BIKE TOURS These three-hour

guided bike rides explore the French Quarter and Tremé neighborhoods, along with Armstrong Park and the Mississippi riverfront. Tours are $49; rentals are $25/day. www.crescentcitybiketours.com.

626 N. Rampart St., 504.322.3455. Map 3, G3 DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth

Pearce leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn.com. 504.578.8280.

FRENCH QUARTER HISTORY & GHOSTBUSTER TOURSThis company offers a variety of experiences, from cemetery explorations to the Ultimate French Quarter History & Ghostbuster Tour,

which departs nightly at 7:30 pm. Group and customized excursions by request. Call for tour times and availability. www.frenchquarterhistorytours. com. 622 1/2 Pirates Alley, 504.561.8687. Map 3, G4 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery.Super City Tour –2 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs.

Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs.

Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp

& Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.

Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour-5.5 hrs. For tickets and further information:

www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.).

Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm and 7:30 pm) from

Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

JEAN LAFITTE HISTORICAL TOURS These National

Park Service walking tours focus on the history of the Mississippi River Delta and depart 9:30 am daily (except Christmas and Mardi Gras). Tickets

are free, but there is a 25-person limit per tour; pick up tickets after 9 am (one pass issued per person). www.nps.gov/jela. 419 Decatur St., 504.589.2636. Map 3, F5 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under.

Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required. All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour – Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm. For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

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Be sure to visit the Golf Club at Audubon Park for world-class golf and dining.

Brunch, lunch and dinner. Uptown in Audubon Park.

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*Separate fee required. Visit website for details. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

THE GUIDE

Museums & Exhibits BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Admission $8; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. www.backstreetmuseum.org.

1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $8; $6 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, I4 GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish

gowns, costumes, and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 22 Mardi Gras balls. Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours (nightly, 6-10 pm). www. arnauds.com/museum.html. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Children learn

through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans” and “New Orleans: Proud to Call It Home.” Adults/children $8.50. Open M-Sa, 9:30 am-5 pm; Su, noon-5 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 Julia St., 504.586.0725. Map 3, C6 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo, Map 3, G4)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square, 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Map 3, G4)–This historic structure next to St.

Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History. 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St., Map 3, G5)– Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St., Map 3, G5)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave., Map 3, I5)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint.

Presbytère (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–Continuing: Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana and Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond. For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film Beyond All Boundaries, while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $23 adults, $20 seniors, $14 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. Beyond All Boundaries: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings.

The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $10 adults, $8 seniors/students, $6 children 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, 10 am-5 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM The Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-4 pm. www.newcombartgallery. tulane.edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $6.25 children (under 5 free).

Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twicew w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 53

THE GUIDE

weekly cooking classes. Adults, $10; students/ seniors, $5; children under 12, free. Open Th-M, 11 am-5:30 pm www.southernfood.org. 1507 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3

Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 COURT OF TWO SISTERS CARRIAGEWAY BAR Lo-

cated in a 19th-century French Quarter carriageway, this bar features an picturesque courtyard, fireplace and tons of ambiance. www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only

brewpub. Microbrews , nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5 CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed

in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 NAPOLEON HOUSE Offered to the emperor if

he could escape exile (so the tale goes), this is a legendary French Quarter watering hole. An hour spent enjoying a muffuletta and a Pimm’s Cup in the courtyard is a quintessential N’awlins experience. www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a mas-

sive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www. nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such

bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehouse.com. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest and toniest along the 54 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

You’re invited to the original Rick’s Cabaret New Orleans You haven’t seen Bourbon St. until you’ve seen Rick’s

315

Cabaret Bourbon Street

www.Rickscabaretnola.com

Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 RICK’S CABARET This recently revamped

18,000-sq.-ft. venue—named one of “America’s Best Strip Clubs” by Playboy—offers three floors, a great sound system and a private VIP section. www.iknowrick.com. 315 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, F4

b

RICK’S SPORTING SALOON The traditional sports

bar gets kicked up several notches at this Bourbon Street hot spot, which scores extra points with its handsome decor and gorgeous entertainers. The club features 10 high-definition TVs, along with 10 beers on draft, each kept at a cool 32 degrees. iknowrick.com. 522 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, G4

2

SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

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NEW ORLEANS, LA 504.942.3731

Dance Clubs BOURBON HEAT This massive party palace offers

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two floors, a courtyard, patio bar and balcony, along with laser light shows and first-rate DJs. www.711bourbonheat.com. 711 Bourbon St., 504.324.4669. Map 3, G4 THE BOURBON PUB & PARADE The city’s largest

gay bar and nightclub. Parade, the second-floor danceteria, features techno, house and classic disco. www.bourbonpub.com. 801 Bourbon St., 504.529.2107. Map 3, H4

• Open 6 Days • Closed Tuesdays Dinner Q•U A Rserved T E5pm-till R • Live Music

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oldest gay bar, Lafitte’s creates a party with high-energy music, hi-def plasma video screens and a great balcony on Bourbon Street. All are welcome. www.lafittes.com. 901 Bourbon St., N. RAMPART 504.522.8397. Map 3, H4

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New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta Hotel recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by rotating roster of top-tier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/us/louisiana/neworleans/royal-sonesta-new-orleans/jazzplayhouse.

300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz

landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene.

The recently renovated supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 PALM COURT JAZZ CAFÉ This excellent venue

for traditional live jazz is a favorite of locals in the know and well-informed visitors. Creole dining is also featured. www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com. 1204 Decatur St., 504.525.0200. Map 3, I5 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay

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of Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Ellis Marsalis and Charmaine Neville are regulars. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYSThis hip venue in the über-hip Ace

Hotel mixes thins up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3

Escape for 2 nights/3 days to the city that never sleeps! Win airfare for two, round-trip airport transfer, 2-night stay at the Muse Hotel and more.

Also receive two round-trip tickets on Acela Express Business Class service to travel to/from New York City and any other Amtrak Northeast Corridor station.

Enter daily through February 28 at wheretraveler.com/contest

THREE MUSES This hip venue offers two locations

and a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; 7537 Maple St., 504.510.2749. Map 1, D4 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s is where the late

great Professor Longhair played, and it features an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup. Sunday afternoons feature a fais do-do with live Cajun music. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 57

THE GUIDE

Navigate Making the Connection

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

NEW ORLEANS was recently named No. 2 among the “Best Cities in North America”—and No. 7 in the world—by readers of Travel + Leisure magazine.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

©SHAWN FINK

It’s one of New Orleans’ biggest attractions, and—at $1.25 a ride—one of its cheapest. The Crescent City’s signature streetcars (p. 58) are a must-do for visitors looking to get off the beaten French Quarter path and explore other parts of the city. In operation since 1835, the St. Charles line offers an ideal vantage for viewing Uptown’s ornate homes and giant oaks. The Canal line travels the street’s full length, with an offshoot to scenic City Park, while the Riverfront line affords river views and access to the lower Quarter. The Loyola line makes getting to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome super-easy, and connects with the new Rampart/St. Claude line (shown), which covers the upper Quarter corridor from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian Fields. All aboard!

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index General Information........................................................................... 58 Nearby Destinations............................................................................59 Cajun Country...........................................................................................59 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 59 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 59 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................59 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................59 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 59 Transportation ....................................................................................... 58

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters and a growing number of popular eateries. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5 CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military

outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residental shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE ARTS DISTRICT This “Southern

SoHo” adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history

and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

LAFOURCHE PARISH Founded in 1807, Lafourche

was one of the Louisiana’s original parishes when it became a state in 1812. Situated along Bayou Lafourche, which extends to the Gulf of Mexico, the area is rich in fish and wildlife, making it an ideal location for early Acadian settlers. The Jean Lafitte National Park Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux, the parish seat, offers insight into Cajun life, while swamp tours provide an upclose look local flora and fauna. Thibodaux is also home to the Laurel Village Sugar Plantation and Museum (the largest surviving 19th–century sugar plantation in the U.S.) and Nicholls State University (aka “Harvard on the Bayou”). www.visitlafourche. com. 985.537.5800.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time, cher. www. houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

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MAGAZINE STREET STRETCHING SIX MILES parallel to the Mississippi River from Canal Street to Audubon Park and the zoo, Magazine Street slices through many different New Orleans neighborhoods. The Central Business District (CBD) and Warehouse Arts District, the Irish Channel, as well as the Lower Garden District, Garden District proper and Uptown—all are inter sected by Magazine. Along the way, you can find some of the city’s best clothing boutiques for children, women and men plus galleries, antique stores, restaurants, cafes, gourmet shops and more.

HISTORIC NEIGHBORHOODS

2

Between parts of Magazine Street and St. Charles Avenue lies the Garden District and Uptown neighborhoods, perhaps the grandest of New Orleans’ neighborhoods. The Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne-style homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available.

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Retro Romance Destination weddings take on whole new meaning along historic River Road, where bridal parties don’t just travel to another time zone, but to an entirely different era.

Most plantations offer wedding packages, from elaborate affairs to simple ceremonies. At Destrehan, for example, vows are exchanged in a rustic 1830s mule barn, while Nottoway (shown), with its exquisite all-white ballroom, full-service salon and on-site honeymoon suite, is more refined.

At Oak Alley couples gather beneath a picturesque canopy of 300-year-old oaks to say their “I dos.” Houmas House, with its 38 acres of lush gardens and varied venues (from the pristine Grand Lawn to the Asianinspired Tea House), can conduct multiple ceremonies at once, helping secure its placement among The Knot’s list of the nation’s best wedding facilities.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $18 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African fold Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $20 adults, $7.50 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $4.50 ages 6-12. Group rates availby Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are able. www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, offered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the CIvil War; today only a handful remain.

66 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

©NOTTOWAY PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 66 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 66 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 67 Dining........................................................................................................... 68

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $18 adults, $16 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 67

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 68 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 t S Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 in e RH a v OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 Sp hA AveOmni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 OO c n i l o kPL n R a Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 Fr St PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 7 Street Direction SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 French Quarter WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 E4 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 Jazzy Passes WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Family Travelers

Luxury Seekers

Romantics

Penguins and sea otters and leucistic alligators—oh, my! Kids are encouraged to take part in daily feedings at the (1) Audubon Aquarium and to go deep with the new “Great Maya Reef” exhibit, which features a 30-ft.-long underwater tunnel that allows them to get eye-to-eye with stingrays, yellow snapper and other liquid assets. The city’s Carnival spirit lives on year-round at (2) Mardi Gras World, a 400,000 sq.-ft. riverfront warehouse where Paul Bunyan rubs shoulders with King Kong and Elvis cavorts with mermaids. “Hands-on” is the key phrase at the (3) Louisiana Children’s Museum.

The “Little Port of New Orleans” exhibit lets pint-size pilots steer simulated barges down the mighty Mississippi, while the “Kid’s Café” caters to budding chefs.

Royal Street has long ruled as the South’s antiquing epicenter, with (1) M.S. Rau its crown jewel. The massive showroom spans centuries and continents. Searching for an 1800s porcelain papal tazza or a circa-1903 Fabergé walking cane accented with diamonds and pearls? You’ll find it here. Tiffany & Co., Coach, lululemon, Saks Fifth Avenue—luxe is the key word at (2) The Shops at Canal Place, where the in-house, nine-screen movie theater offers in-seat dining. One state-of-the-art kitchen, two nationally acclaimed chefs: That’s the recipe for success at (3) Restaurant R’evolution. Take the “Caviar Staircase” before diving into “Death by Gumbo." After dessert (“White Chocolate Bread Pudding Crème Brûlée”), a jewelry box arrives at your table, filled with bonus bites.

With couples canoodling on park benches and Andrew Jackson tipping his hat toward the former residence of his alleged lover, (1) Jackson Square has been wooing romantics since 1851. Mule-drawn carriage tours line up in front, providing the perfect opportunity to snuggle together. Forget candlelight; it’s flickering gaslight that sets French Quarter visitors’ hearts aflutter. Stop by (2) Bevolo to see its signature lamps being made by hand, and take one with you to keep the love fire burning back home. Indulge in each other in elegance at the award-winning (3) Spa at the Ritz-Carlton. Book your own private suite for a sensual couple's massage that incorporates coffee and pralines; Champagne for two completes the ritzy "Le Charme Romantique" package.

72 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 17

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©JEFF STROUT/AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; ©MARDI GRAS WORLD; ©LOUISIANA CHILDREN'S MUSEUM; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©M.S. RAU; ©THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE; ©RESTAURANT R'EVOLUTION; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; ©THE SPA AT THE RITZ-CARLTON

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS.

HOUMAS HOUSE Plantation and Gardens Houmas House Plantation and Gardens makes memories of legendary proportions. Tour the original plantation house built in the 1770s, stroll through 36 acres of breathtaking gardens, discover unique items at the gift shop, and dine at Houmas House’s exquisite restaurants. The Inn at Houmas House now offers 21 luxurious rooms for overnight stays. Plan your visit to the “Crown Jewel of Louisiana’s River Road” today!

Houmas House Plantation and Gardens 40136 Hwy 942 • Darrow, LA 70725 • 225-473-9380 • www.HoumasHouse.com

VISIT THE HISTORIC GRAND DAME RESTAURANT AND COURTYARD VALE PARK T ING NO W AVA ILABL

Sunday Brunch!

819 RUE CONTI

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J O I N U S F O R O U R FA M O U S J A Z Z B R U N C H E V E RY S U N D AY F R O M 1 0 : 3 0 A M - 2 : 3 0 P M I N C L U D I N G BOTTOMLESS MIMOSAS AND CLASSIC CREOLE FARE.

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