Where Berlin September 2016

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Berlin

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

SYMPHONY OF A CITY Why Berlin is the new capital of classical music

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BEST OF FASHION MORE THAN 300 SHOPS

Photo Marc Cain

Monday - Saturday 10am - 9pm

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Berlin

09.16

CONTENTS

See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

16

XX

6 Hot Dates

Vogue Fashion's Night Out offers an equal dose of shopping and clubbing.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from worldrenowned athletes to music festivals and fireworks galore.

SIGHTSEEING

36

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66

10

Untouched by WWII bombs, the Rote Insel Kiez is a historical hidden gem.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

42 XX

Decipher contemporary art and contemplate all the big questions at Berlin Art Week.

6

XX traditional German Sample dishes and wash 'em down with a tall stein of beer at Oktoberfest.

66 My Berlin

With three opera houses and eight first-rate orchestras, Berlin has well earned its title as the capital of classical music.

Gerhard Buskies, concierge at the Hilton Berlin, shares his personal city tips.

Berlin

®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

SYMPHONY OF A CITY Why Berlin is the new capital of classical music

16 A Place On The Platz

BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

BY HILDA HOY

14 In With The Old

18 Change Of Season

Antique dealer Tim Gronert helps us hunt down hidden treasures.

BY ANNABELLE MALLIA

NIGHTLIFE

58

Piazza, plaza, Platz – the public square is where neighborhood life flourishes.

Pull up a bar stool at these authentic German watering holes.

ESSENTIALS

61

His-and-hers autumn essentials to update your wardrobe.

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

BY CLAUDIA KOKSCH

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The Where Pass provides visitors with exceptional discounts to the city’s must-see attractions, as well as a transport ticket and an informative city guidebook. Visiting Berlin has never been more convenient.

See wherepassberlin.com for more details

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61 Ask The Concierge

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Also Inside

Hark! Be that English I hear?

Discover Berlin's most anglo-friendly venues.

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Where Now

ENTERTAINMENT

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Brendan Nash The tour guide and author specializes in Berlin's raucous cabaret scene of the 1920s.

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DINING

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H.-v.GagernStr.

PYRONALE: PHOTO BY M.H. VOGEL; MARKET: © ISTOCK PHOTO; CABARET: PHOTO BY WIRDEIER, COURTESY OF TIPI AM KANZLERAMT; KPM PORCELAIN: COURTESY OF GRONERT KUNSTHANDEL.; IVAN FISCHER: PHOTO BY MARCO BORGGREVE

SHOPPING

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5 Editor’s Note

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

A Fresh Start It's back-to-school season, probably my favorite time of year. New clothes, new supplies, and the clean slate after the summer vacation all bring new opportunities for a fresh start. Every September, I'm inspired to draft new projects, my creativity is at its maximum levels, and my desk becomes a huge pile of to-do, to-cook, to-write, to-try, and to-learn lists that encompass the whole year ahead.

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

It's also back to work for all of Berlin's musicians, as September marks the start of the new musical season. While opera singers clear their throats and violinists rosin their bows, Berliners and visitors consult the city's concert programs and buy tickets to favorite perfomances. To remind us all of this new start, from 3 to 20 September the annual Musikfest brings the best performers of Berlin's top orchestras to the stages of the Philharmonie and Konzerthaus to celebrate the German capital's musical legacy.

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HOT

DATES September in Berlin promises a wide array of events, from cultural celebrations to explosive fireworks.

LOLLAPALOOZA

10 FROM SATURDAY

No European city is better fit to host Lollapalooza than Berlin.

The godfather of music festivals has tranformed into a two-day event that integrates different genres with food, art, street theater, sustainability, and even kids' adventures. This year's lineup at Treptower Park includes Radiohead, Kings of Leon, and New Order (right). www.lollapaloozade.com 6 W H E R E B E R L I N I S E P T E M B E R 2016

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CALENDAR | WHERE NOW

IFA

2

FROM FRIDAY

Ideas for the markets of tomorrow, such as eyeglasses for virtual reality applications, superfast 3D scanners, sensors for fitness and health, and screens for captivating HDR images, are just some of the innovations showcased over six days at this year’s IFA at Messe Berlin, the world’s leading trade show for consumer electronics and home appliances. www.ifa-berlin.de

ISTAF

3 SATURDAY

On your marks, get set, go! Part of the IAAF World Challenge, the ISTAF annual track-and-field event, held at Berlin's Olympic Stadium, is one of the world’s leading athletics meetings, with 180 athletes from 40 countries competing in 15 disciplines. Over the years, spectators have been treated to 16 world records. www.istaf.de

INTERNATIONAL LITERATURE FESTIVAL BERLIN

7

FROM WEDNESDAY

Staged by and for literary enthusiasts, the ILB allows audiences to meet world-renowned authors as well as discover emerging talent. Eleven days filled with prose, poetry, conversations, political discussions, and readings of children’s and youth stories make up approximately 180 events (many of which are in English) with 150 authors at venues across Berlin. www.literaturfestival.com www.wheretraveler.com 7

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September

Pyronale From FRIDAY

9

There's magic in the air above the Olympic Stadium, as the Pyronale firework festival kicks off two days of sparkling competition. Watch the night sky catch on fire as the best pyrotechnicians in the world battle it out with an explosion of creativity and illuminated color, synchronized to music. www.pyronale.de

Justin Bieber

14 From Saturday

Are you a "Belieber"?

Canadian singer, songwriter, and superstar Justin Bieber brings his Purpose World Tour 2016 to Berlin’s MercedesBenz Arena, showcasing hits from his fourth studio album. Since being discovered on YouTube in 2007, the teen heartthob has won countless music industry awards and rocked the hearts of teens around the globe. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

Day Of Open Monuments

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From SUNday

Let’s hear it for cultural heritage! On the Tag des offenen Denkmals, part of European Heritage Days, numerous monuments, historic buildings, and sites that are usually closed to the public open their doors to visitors.

Conservators and other experts are on hand to lead tours and demonstrate their work, drawing attention to details that the untrained eye might otherwise miss. www.tag-des-offenen-denkmals.de

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Hot Dates

Just two days left to catch the Pop-Kultur Festival’s concerts all across the city.

Three days of catwalks kick off during fashion's Bread and Butter at Arena Berlin.

Circus Festival delights – with acrobats, not animals – at Tempelhofer Park.

Fireworks and lasers meet music at the Aquanario show at Spandau Citadel.

Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English.

Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie’s free lunch concert at 1pm.

Pick up a book to fete the start of the Berlin International Literature Festival.

Enjoy ultimate relaxation in the flotation pool and saunas of Kreuzberg’s Liquidrom spa.

Take in a thrilling performance of Bizet’s famed opera Carmen at Deutsche Oper.

Legendary nightclub SO36 celebrates all things '80s with a dance party and three DJs. See the Staatsballett dance Multiplicity, with modern choreography inspired by Bach.

Take a day trip to Potsdam’s Sanssouci Park to admire autumn foliage and lux royal palaces.

Take your pick from an array of citywide art shows at the annual Berlin Art Week.

Pop sensation Justin Bieber melts hearts at Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight.

Visit Chamäleon Theater to see their newest circus show, the joy-filled Underart.

Baroque compositions reverbate from the organ at tonight's Berliner Dom concert.

Enjoy a Saturday night on the town at Mitte’s super-trendy Neue Odessa Bar. For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten’s Straße des 17. Juni is a must.

Explore the legacy of legendary dancer Pina Bausch at a new Martin-Gropius-Bau exhibit.

Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum.

Get into clubbing mode as Danish electronic star Trentemøller hits PBHFCLUB. Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun.

Prost! The local Oktoberfest opens at KurtSchumacher-Damm. Open Wed-Sun. Fancy a big night out? Enjoy decadent dinner, drinks, and dancing at Bar Tausend.

See acclaimed Ben Harper and his Innocent Criminals play live at Columbiahalle.

Last chance! The exhibition of dissident GDR art ends at Martin-Gropius-Bau today.

Check out the new show at the Kulturforum exploring the art of 19th-century drawing.

Enjoy an afternoon Espresso Concert at Konzerthaus – it’s “caffeine for the ears.”

Walk on the wild side at Berlin’s famed zoo, located at the edge of Tiergarten park.

Starting tonight, the annual Berlin Leuchtet fest lights up landmarks across the city.

ISTAF: Camera4/ISTAF; IFA: Miss Ifa Presents products: © IFA; New order: photo by Nick Wilson, courtesy of LollapalooZa; International Literature Festival: © istock photo; Pyronale: photo by M.H. Vogel; Justin Bieber: press portrait; Monument Day: courtesy of Tag des Offenen Denkmals.

Where now | calendar

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section

12/08/2016 10:29

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04/08/2016 11:43 02.08.16 09:58

WHERE NOW | CLASSICAL MUSIC

CITY OF MUSIC

From the world’s most renowned orchestras to music festivals and neighborhood ensembles, Berlin is a perennial concert. Solveig Steinhardt explored Europe’s capital of classical music with the help of a local expert, music critic Wolf Zube of Café Horenstein.

I

t isn’t just its three state-funded opera houses, two concert halls, and eight world-class orchestras that make this city so important in the international classical music scene. Music is so ingrained in local culture that it’s common for Berliners of all backgrounds and ages to attend an opera or a concert, to sing in one of the 1500-plus amateur choirs, or to play an instrument.

Combine that with the city’s generosity towards artists and it’s easy to understand why musicians from around the globe are flocking to the German capital.

Berlin’s musical richness is a result of the city’s long cultural history, particularly during the Cold War: Throughout the 46 years that the Iron Curtain divided the city, East and West competed for musical supremacy, so that when the Wall came down, Berlin

found itself with two sets of premier musical institutions, all of which still stand today. And though its multitude of concert halls, opera houses, and other cultural venues would be enough to satisfy the needs of most any other city, performances sell out more often than not – further proof of the Berlin appetite for music.

HORENSTEIN: CLASSICALMUSIC HEAVEN Berlin is full of cultural treasures, from nondescript museums housed in private apartments to cabinets of curiosity, to places like secret pondside sculpture gardens or old phone booths transformed into lending libraries. One such musical gem is Horenstein (Fechnerstr. 3, www. horenstein.de), a small shop in the Wilmersdorf district where classical music aficionado and former Die Welt and

Berliner Morgenpost music critic Wolf Zube opened his vinyl-record business and café in 2005. Specializing in select and rare classical music recordings, Zube’s shop also serves as a cultural salon and meeting point for musicians. “The sound of vinyl records has accompanied me for 50 years,” he says. “I know a lot about music, and I like to drink good coffee. I decided to create Horenstein because I wanted a place where people could sit with a hot drink while listening to the best interpretations of classical music.”

Conductors and orchestra performers are among his regular customers, and he sometimes hosts small concerts and talks.

“People mainly come here to look for a particular interpretation or for a rendition by a certain conductor,” he explains.

Zube named his shop after Jascha Horenstein, a Jewish conductor who worked with renowned conductor Wilhelm

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IVAN FISCHER: PHOTO BY MARCO BORGGREVE; HORENSTEIN CAFE AND RECORD: PHOTO BY SRS.

Furtwängler in Berlin in the 1920s, before having to flee Nazi Germany in 1933.

“Horenstein never achieved international stardom,” Zube says. “I like to call him the biggest unknown name amongst the major conductors. His interpretations are something else: Each instrument was given its own voice and character while still being part of the overall architecture of the composition.

Listening to his recording of Mahler’s Third Symphony many years ago influenced my life forever: I named my shop – and my son, Jascha – after him. I never met him in person (he died in 1973), but my relationship with this conductor is very deep and personal.”

And Zube is not Horenstein’s only fan. A few years ago, a group of Konzerthaus musicians gathered in the shop to found a new ensemble, which they named after the renowned conductor.

Wolf thinks Berlin’s music scene today can be compared to the musical vibrancy of the early 1920s, when Horenstein was still working here. “So many orchestras, conductors, and composers from around the world were all here together, a bit like today.

I don’t know if Berlin can be considered the world capital of classical music, and I am not sure it even matters. But after all, maybe it is, because it has the only classical record café in Europe!”

A HARMONIOUS MONTH September is the best month to enjoy the city’s classical offerings, as it’s when the Philharmonie and the Konzerthaus Berlin come together to open the year’s

Wolf Zube at the door of Café Horenstein

BERLIN TODAY IS REMINISCENT OF THE 1920S, A PERIOD WHEN CLASSICAL MUSICIANS FROM AROUND THE WORLD FLOCKED TO THE GERMAN CAPITAL.

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Where now | CLASSICAL MUSIC concert season with Musikfest, three weeks of performances featuring the Berliner Philharmoniker, the Konzerthausorchester, and a multitude of guest ensembles and performers. From 2 to 20 September (see program on p. 57), the festival offers 27 concerts featuring 70 works by 35 composers. This year, Muzikfest pays homage to the two-way celebration of Germany’s relationship with Mexico through pieces such as Tutuguri by Wolfgang Rihm, which features a poem by French dramatist Antonin Artaud on his experience with Mexican Tarahumara people. A work that pushes all formal boundaries with a large orchestra, Tutuguri is a furious and complex work of contemporary music, featuring an ensemble of percussionists, amplified choir voices, and a narrator to tie it all together.

More traditional ears should not fret, however: The festival is packed with “lighter” performances that include works

by Bach, Beethoven, Strauss, and Wagner, as well Daniel Barenboim’s interpretation of Edward Elgar’s The Dream of Gerontius, a monumental work of 20th-century music that many consider to be the English composer’s masterpiece.

MINI-GUIDE TO Berlin’S CLASSICAL SCENE With so many venues, Berlin’s classical music scene can be difficult to navigate. Here are the must-know venues:

∙

Philharmonie: The home of the Berliner Philharmoniker orchestra, currently conducted by Sir Simon Rattle, was founded in 1950s West Berlin and includes the Kammermusiksaal, which hosts daily concerts of smaller ensembles and soloists.

∙

Konzerthaus: The concert hall of former East Berlin is

housed in a Neoclassical building from the early 1800s. Acoustically, it is considered to be among the five best concert venues in the world. Iván Fischer is its head conductor.

∙

Deutsche Oper: What appears to be a mere block of cement from the outside is an acoustic wonderland within. Donald Runnicles is head conductor for the company, which was founded in 1950s West Berlin.

∙

Staatsoper: The opera

house on Unter den Linden is currently being restored, so company performances currently take place at the Schiller Theater.

Traditionally staged operas are accompanied by the Staatskapelle and conducted by Daniel Barenboim.

∙

Komische Oper: This opera house has always focused on traditional German-language works, but in recent years the program has veered towards the quirky and experimental.

Philharmonie: © schirmer; Kammermusiksaal: @friedrich.

HIDDEN CLASSICAL HAVENS In Berlin, music can happen just about anywhere, even in an U-Bahn station.

In 2014, the entire neighborhood of Friedrichshain transformed into a concert hall with the “singing balconies” event, in which ensembles played from their windows and terraces. On a more professional level, directors such as Christoph Hegel occasionally stage productions in unusual places, such as stations or museums.

“A great space is the Salon Christophori (www.konzertfluegel.com) in Wedding,” says Zube. Hidden in a former industrial estate, the red-brick concert hall was created by a doctor and piano lover who opened it to the public to promote his favorite instrument through recitals and experimental performances. Zube also recommends Radialsystem V (www. radialsystem.de), a water-pumping station from the early 1900s that has been redesigned to host performances, including frequent classical concerts.

“And of course there’s the Yellow Lounge (www.yellowlounge.com) for the younger audience,” adds Zube. Created by the Deutsche Grammophon music label with the idea that classical music shouldn’t be confined to concert halls, the event marries classical with mainstream and takes place in hip bars and clubs around the city. (See website for event calendar.)

Above: the Philharmonie, This photo: The Kammermusiksaal

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From top to bottom: KPM porcelain at Gronert Kunsthandel; the Suarezstrasse antique festival; flea market treasures.

Between the two world wars, Berlin was known as Europe’s capital of antiques.

Although that claim no longer holds, the vast array of antique stores, auction houses, and flea markets means there’s still a wealth of treasures to be found.

When it comes to objects with a history, Tim Gronert is the person to talk to. His parents set up Gronert Kunsthandel (Giesebrechtstr. 10, www.gronert.com) back in 1968 with a mere 3000 Deutsche Marks (ca. €1500) they’d saved and borrowed from friends. Since then, the store has blossomed into one of the city’s most reputable addresses for arts and antiques, specializing in KPM Berlin porcelain, German paintings and sculpture from 1870 to 1930, Swedish glass, Italian design, and Danish silver, as well as one-off furniture pieces ranging from Neoclassical to mid-century.

“One must not compare the Berlin antique market with other European or American capitals,” says Gronert. “During WWII, most of the famous collectors and dealers were forced to flee, and Berlin’s antique markets simply never recovered from this loss of wealthy connoisseurs and modern merchants who had made it one of the capitals of art.”

But if antique dealers in Berlin are now few and far between, the more modern niches of the antique business have developed

Out With The New In With The Old Never one to resist an antique, Annabelle Mallia enlists the help of expert Tim Gronert.

greatly in the past few decades. Today, Berlin is known for its stores specializing in Danish teak furniture and East German design from the 1960s and 1970s.

“The 20th-century design world is one segment of the decorative arts that is covered quite nicely, with shops like Jacksons Berlin (Lindenstr. 34, www. jacksons.se), a satellite of Jacksons Stockholm, or Galerie Ulrich Fiedler (Mommsenstr. 59, www.ulrichfiedler.com), which spans Schinkel to Bauhaus,” Gronert says. “For antique graphic arts, there are auction houses Galerie Bassenge (Erdener Str. 5A, www.bassenge.com) and Jeschle Van Vliet (Lehrter Str. 57, www.jvv-berlin. de), while GDR design can be found at stores such as Schönhauser Design (www.

schoenhauser-design.de), or, with lots of luck, at the Antikmarkt at Ostbahnhof.”

Altough flea markets are an enjoyable way to spend a Sunday morning, Gronert says that “the offering includes often more contemporary reproductions than authentic originals. The one on Strasse des 17. Juni has a few stalls focusing on very specific topics such as antique frames, prints, and school maps.”

Those looking for more valuable pieces should stroll Suarezstraße (www. suarezstrasse.com), one of the oldest antique roads in Berlin. On 3 September, shopkeepers dress in olden-day fashion to celebrate the Antikmeile festival, displaying pieces from1860 to 1960, all in a festive atmosphere replete with food and drink.

KPM Berlin: courtesy of Gronert Kunsthandel; flea markets: © istock photo; Antikmeile: courtesy of Suarezstrasse Antikfest.

Where now | ANTIQUES

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INE L N S O n.de

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ETe-berli K TICthegat K OO ww. w

Experience 300 years of Berlin history!

„A great must see that taught you a lot about Germany in a very short time.“ (Sam H., Manchester, England) “38 sound channels that leave a lasting impression” (Tagesspiegel)

Film. Sound. Emotion.

DIRECTLY AT THE BRANDENBURG GATE

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GETTING THERE

Brandenburger Tor Pariser Platz 4a 10117 Berlin

OPENING HOURS daily open Monday – Sunday 10am – 8pm

TICKETS AND SERVICE

www. thegate-berlin.de Mail: info@thegate-berlin.de Phone: +49 (0)30 23 60 78 436

15/08/2016 10:59

WHERE NOW | PLATZ

ON THE PLATZ Atmospheric, characterful public squares are one of Berlin’s specialties. Hilda Hoy visited a few of her favorites to round up the best scenic spots for taking in some Platz charm.

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I

talians call it a piazza, the French a place.

For the Spanish it’s a plaza, and for the Germans it’s a Platz (or Plätze, if we’re talking plural). No matter the name, the public square has long been a special feature of European urban planning, a place where neighborhood life flourishes and locals can pick up produce and flowers at outdoor markets, sun themselves, or have a coffee on the sidewalk terrace, where they might bump into a neighbor or two and stop for a chat.

To soak up a bit of distinctively Berlin local life, spend a few hours hanging out at these four charming Plätze around the city:

ALL PHOTOS © ISTOCK EXCEPT PREVIOUS PAGE BOTTOM RIGHT: FLICKR/NICO CARAMELLA; AND THIS PAGE BOTTOM RIGHT: ©SRS.

LUDWIGKIRCHPLATZ: CHARLOTTENBURG-WILMERSDORF With beautiful green lawns, an eye-catching brick church, and historic turn-of-thecentury apartment buildings on all sides, Ludwigkirchplatz epitomizes the stately, bourgeois elegance for which this western district is known. The big playground in the middle of the Platz keeps neighborhood kids happy for hours, and the ice cream cones from Sweet2go (Pfalzburger Str. 79, www.sweet-2-go.com) are a local favorite too. Pick up a couple of the famous croissants and a coffee from Aux Delices Normands (Pfalzburger Str. 76, www. auxdelicesnormands.de) and claim a spot on a bench near the square’s majestic fountain.

When it’s time for more substantial fare, grab a table on the terrace at Weyers (Pariser Str. 16, www.weyers-restaurant.de) and try some of their famous German cuisine, like cabbage rolls or pan-fried Maultaschen (akin to giant ravioli). Gourmands shouldn’t miss Maître Philippe et Filles (Emser Str. 42, www.maitrephilippe.de), the city’s best-known purveyor of French cheese and delicacies, while cigar aficionados should stop at Zigarren Herzog (Ludwigkirchplatz 1-2, www.zigarren-herzog.com) to enjoy a fine Cuban and a snifter of cognac in the smoking lounge.

bask on the grass or by the fountain. Get an ice cream around the corner at Viktoria Eis (Motzstr. 58, www.victoria-eis.de), or splurge on a big brunch at Russian-themed Potemkin (Viktoria-Luise-Platz 5, www. restaurant-potemkin-berlin.de), with lots of tables right on the square. If the sun and fresh air have stirred up your appetite, head to Osteria Ribaltone (Motzstr. 54, www. ribaltone.de) for a heaping plate of truffle pasta.

KOLLWITZPLATZ: PRENZLAUER BERG Named after Expressionist artist Käthe Kollwitz, this square exemplifies what Prenzlauer Berg is best known for: cute cafés and a pleasantly yuppie, kid-friendly vibe. The biggest attractions here are the twice-weekly markets (Thursday 12pm –7pm, Saturday 9am–4pm) and the plethora of cafés and charming clothing, gift, and houseware shops to browse. Pick up some reading material down the block at St. George’s (Wörther Str. 27, www.saintgeorgesbookshop.com), one of the best English-language bookstores in the city, then tear into your new novel over coffee and brunch at Anna Blume (Kollwitzstr. 83, www.cafe-anna-blume.de) or Endlos (Knaackstr. 43-45, www.cafe-endlosberlin.de). Meat-free restaurant Lucky Leek delights both vegetarians and omnivores alike, as does the Israeli hummus at Zula

(Husemannstr. 10, www.zulaberlin.com). For a special treat for the little ones, head to the Kolle 37 “adventure playground” just down the road (Kollwitzstr. 35, www.kolle37.de), where they can pick up a hammer and help build a cool wooden fort.

HOHENSTAUFENPLATZ: KREUZBERG Also known as Zickenplatz, this square is at the heart of Kreuzberg’s most picturesque neighborhood, the Graefekiez. The scenic Landwehr Canal is just a short stroll away, as are the Turkish shops and restaurants that give Kreuzberg much of its unique character.

There’s a small but thriving organic farmers’ market here every Tuesday (12–6:30pm) and Saturday (9am–2pm), and the playground has a popular zipline for kids. Right on the Platz is Le Bon (Boppstr. 1, www.lebon-berlin.com), maker of the neighborhood’s best brunch (try the eggs Benedict or shakshuka), as well as Tire Bouchon (Schönleinstr. 10), which does excellent thin-crust pizzas. Don’t forget Imren (Boppstr. 10, www.imren-grill.de), a no-frills kebab shop that makes one of the tastiest döner kebabs in the city. Make sure to pop into Jean et Lili (Dieffenbachstr. 38, www. jeanetlili.de), which is full of beautiful gift ideas and items for the home, before having a drink at Pony Saloon (Dieffenbachstr. 36, www.pony-saloon.de), a chilled-out and unpretentious local pub.

VIKTORIA-LUISE-PLATZ: SCHÖNEBERG Manicured lawns, colorful flowerbeds, and a gushing fountain make this hexagonal Schöneberg square a sibling to Ludwigkirchplatz. Designed in 1898 and named after the then princess of Prussia, this Platz hosts a lively farmers’ market every Saturday from 10am–6pm. During the rest of the week, the park-like square is a pretty spot to catch up on some reading or simply w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 17

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WHERE NOW | NEW SEASON

A BRAND NEW LOOK FOR HIM FOR HER

1

2

3

5

6

Claudia Koksch shares her picks for the new season.

4

1. Tiger of Sweden, Neue Schönhauser Str. 9.

2. Seidensticker, ALEXA, Grunerstraße 20.

3. Barbour, Kurfürstendamm 26A. 4. Replay, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

5. Marc Cain, Friedrichstr. 61.

6. IKKS, Neue Schönhauser Str. 16.

7. Aigner, Kurfürstendamm 50.

8. Strenesse, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

7

8

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BUY AND SELL PREOWNED LUXURY WATCHES S. Karahan

Expert since 1980

Luxury Watches & Brand Watches Buy / Sell / Service

RheinstraÃ&#x;e 34 I 12161 Berlin I Telefon: 030 851 77 51 I e-Mail: info@juweliersaro.de

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Left: Marc Cain's fashion show. This photo: shopping at the VFNO. Inset below: the KaDeWe.

Shop ‘Til You Drop A party only starts to heat up when it gets full. Crowded stores, on the other hand, are typically avoided – except during Vogue Fashion’s Night Out, “a global celebration of fashion,” as organizers call it.

Every year in roughly 30 cities around the world, shops and luxury boutiques open their doors until midnight, offering special discounts, limited collections, drinks, music, and an overall party atmosphere, while you give your credit card a workout. Vienna hosts the event on 7 September, Düsseldorf on 9 September, and slotted into the middle is Berlin’s big night out, booked for 8 September at various party locations around the city.

Main hot spots in the German capital are once again concept mall Bikini Berlin (p. 22) and department store KaDeWe (p. 24), where last year's guests were greeted by a virtualreality experience from Samsung before

exploring the six floors of festivities.

The celebration continues along the city's self-proclaimed luxury-shopping mile, Kurfürstendamm, where German designers command the limelight. Last year, Dorothee Schumacher (Schlüterstr. 47) personally hosted her own party at her store just off Ku'damm, where customers could pick up a sleek new pouch and matching outfit to the soundtrack of electronic beats.

Around the corner, Aigner, Porsche Design, and other premium brands also participated.

On the other side of town, Departmentstore Quartier 206 (Friedrichstr. 71) hosts its usual VIP

event and, for the first time, the central Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz (p. 24) also partakes in the soirée. The Vogue website boasts nearly 100 participating venues in all.

Shop to your heart's content, champagne in hand, while discovering the latest trends and new designers from both Berlin and beyond. If you’re lucky, you may even catch a glimpse of a celebrity or two perusing the racks next to you.

Be sure to check the website before leaving home for a full list of participating stores, as well as special in-store and online offers.

8 Sep. www.vogue.de/fno

© julia malisch: markus nass.

Torn between late-night shopping and clubbing, Annabelle Mallia settles on Vogue Fashion's Night Out for an equal dose of both.

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SHOPPING

KRIGLER Perfumer since 1904

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65.

Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 4 September, 16 October, 6 November, 4 December, 18 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

Krigler is perfumer on Unter den Linden in Berlin since 1905.

Known as the perfumer at the Hotel Adlon.

“The history of Krigler is filled with passion, intrigue and secrets. His devotees have included John F. Kennedy, Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly...”

Vanity Fair, Hollywood issue DISCOVER THE COLLECTION AT: KRIGLER - Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77, 10117, Berlin Mo-Su: 11:00-20:00 - T: +49 30 80494144 - WWW.KRIGLER.EU

Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

Department stores & malls Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr.

20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN

for the

label lovers

Designer brands at 30-70% less.* more to love, All year round.

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

SAVE AN EXTRA 10%**

Europa Center

designeroutletberlin.com

This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton

Than RRP. Take this page to our information desk to claim. *

Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de.

Budapester Str. 42-50.

T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

**

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SHOPPING in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality.

If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin

Fired Fusion Inspired by the paintings of masters, Vienna-based jeweler Freywille makes distinctive, handcrafted pieces, each embellished with the brand's signature enamel fused with gold in a process perfected in 1981. The result is a perfect shine with brilliant colors, featuring the trademark Freywille golden glow. Many collections pay homage to specific artists, such as Gustav Klimt and Claude Monet, or are inspired by historical motifs. The new Pharaoh line is a tribute to Tutankhamen and the world of ancient Egypt, with characteristic symbols such as the scarab beetle decorating every piece.

Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030 88676991; Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3. T: 030 23457331. www.freywille.com

270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian

Alte Schönhauser Str. 39 • 10119 Berlin Barbour_where Berlin_September 1_178 x120mm + 3mm.indd 1

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LATENIGHT-SHOPPING from 7pm to midnight at Bikini Berlin

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ROLEX BOUTIQUE

UNIQLO

SHOE CITY

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique.

The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters.

Tauentzienstr. 7B/C. T: 030 29028260 www.uniqlo.com/de

Shoe lovers, rejoice! Shoe City reopened this past May as the largest footwear paradise in Berlin. Discover three floors of shoes for men and women, featuring internationally popular brands such as Birkenstock, Clarks, Lloyd, Tom Taylor, Bullboxer, Think! and Vagabond.

Tauentzienstraße 5. T: 030 21019852 www.shoecity.shoes

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de

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BODO DILG GOLDSCHMIEDE

A master in his field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of stucco and cement tiles.

A stop for soon to wed partners, nestled between the Savignyplatz and luxury-shopping strip Ku'damm.

Watch the jeweler as he creates masterpieces right in the store, or browse the showroom, designed to make customers relaxed and comfortable.

Grolmanstr. 30/31.

T: 030 88675355 www.bodo-dilg.de

shop stop

BELLE REBELLE

The Charlottenburg boutique offers fragrance lovers a break from the everyday, with scents you won't find in your neighborhood department store. Staff are renowned for their expertise, so come prepared to ask your toughest beauty questions. The cosmetics and personal-care products for men and women are as singular as the perfume selection.

Bleibtreustraße 42. T: 030 679672050 www.bellerebelle.de shop stop

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shop stop

shop stop

GOLDSTEG DESIGNER OUTLET For ladies a real treasure trove for exquisite individual fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags.

You find different styles, many different designers in a wide price range.

Enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and friendly reception. Credit cards and Tax Free possible.

Carmerstr. 8.

T: 030 51307933 www.goldsteg.de shop stop

PLANET BERLIN

MEYER & NEHLS

CATHERINE BERLIN

Set yourself apart from the crowd with fashion and accessories from Planet Berlin, described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll." They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr Marten's, as well as new labels like le temps des cerises, whose male and female jeans have already achieved cult status. Get ready for your next glamorous night of clubbing.

Spoil yourself at this intimate boutique. Geared towards self-confident, independent women, Meyer & Nehls stocks unique pieces for that special occasion, as well as business and casual attire. If you are looking for fashion advice, owners and style experts Lars and Frank Nehls are there to help.

Catherine Berlin is a hotspot for hand and nail cosmetic. This nail salon hinges upon expert beauticians and products from Catherine Nail Collection. Founded in Germany almost 35 years ago by Ingeborg Frimmel and named after her daughter, the brand is renowned.

Bleibtreustr. 13. T: 030 88678578 www.meyerundnehls.de

Knesebeckstr. 35-37. T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de

Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717

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CHARLOTTEN

Whether it’s just a trim you need, a whole new style and color, or makeup and styling for a special event, at the Flaconi NEO salon, you’re in expert hands. Their mission is to bring out the individual beauty of each client, and to make sure everyone walks out the door 100% delighted with their new look.

Leipziger Str. 36. T: 030 20674990 www.flaconi-neo.de

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Manufacturing clothing purely from organically grown natural fibers, founding twin sisters Anja and Sandra apply the highest standards of innovation and sustainability when creating their designs.

The focus is on timeless beauty and the art of Japanese cutting, combining flattering silhouettes with precise lines.

Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 24085534 www.umasan-berlin.com

KRIGLER @ Hotel Adlon

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This perfume house was created in 1904 to provide unique luxury fragrances made with the finest ingredients. In 1905, Krigler’s shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s Weimar era, and early fans of Krigler perfumes included celebrities, such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly.

Hotel Adlon Unter den Linden 77.

T: 030 80494144 www.krigler.eu

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Life Happens

You never know what the day may bring. For any event, for every occasion, it helps to be prepared. Life happens. Wear it well.

For the 7-hour flight: Ultra Light Down Compact Jacket 59,90 € Jersey Jogger Pants 29,90 €

For the 3-hour meeting: Smart Style Ankle Length Pants 29,90 € Extra Fine Merino V Neck Cardigan 39,90 € Rayon Blouse 29,90 €

Last-minute business trip UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE · Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C UNIQLO LEIPZIGER PLATZ · Leipziger Platz 16 UNIQLO HACKESCHER MARKT · Rosenthaler Straße 42 Shop online www.uniqlo.com/de Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein.

Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 11.08.2016, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

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COS Deichmann Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren DESIGUAL Dogo Shoes Einblick Optik EPL Diamond Esprit Eterna FALKE FASHION CLUB Fast Forward Foot Locker Fossil French Connection Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw GANT GINA TRICOT GUESS H&M

Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL

BREE

MANKIND

C&A

adidas Neo

CALZEDONIA

Airfield

Casano

Almano -

CHRIST

Ledermanufaktur

CINQUE

ARMANI JEANS

Claire’s

Backlash

Clarks Ecco

Bershka

Coco California

BIJOU BRIGITTE

Codello

BIMBA Y LOLA

Cordon Berlin

HALLHUBER Hollister HUGO BOSS Hunkemöller Intersport INTIMISSIMI Jack & Jones JD Sports KARL LAGERFELD Kingz Konplott LACOSTE LAURÈL Levi’s LIEBESKIND Lief!

Liu Jo LLOYD Look 54 MANGO MARC CAIN Marc O’Polo

MASSIMO DUTTI Mavi MAX & CO. Mephisto MEXX Muji NAVYBOOT Nike Oakley Odlo Olymp One Green Elephant PANDORA Passionata PATRIZIA PEPE Peek & Cloppenburg Pepe Jeans René Lezard Reno Replay Rich & Royal

Runners Point S & D sons and daughters Salamander Sarar Schiesser Schiesser Uncover SCHMUCKRAUSCH Schuh Bode SHOE CITY Shoe Connect Shok Sidestep SNIPES Sportalm Kitzbühel SPORTSCHECK Street Shoes STRELLSON STRENESSE STYLE MODE Sunglass Hut SWAROVSKI

Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO Tom Tailor TOMMY HILFIGER Trigema Triumph TWIN-SET UN1DEUX2TROIS3 Undiz Uniqlo Vans VERO MODA WE-Fashion Wigglesteps WORMLAND ZARA ZERO ...and more.

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE

areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

FASHION Barbour

T: 030.88472949.

U Kurfürstendamm. C4

garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31.

T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

ben|weide

Cinque

Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com.

Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Boggi Milano

The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6.

T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS

Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look.

Customers can also enjoy a shopping break with tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield sofas upstairs. www.barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a T: 030.88001773. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39.

030.23456828. U Weinmeister Straße. F2

The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25.

T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49.

T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

Basler

By Anne

Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220.

PASS VISIT WHEREPASSBERLIN.COM

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or

Cotélac

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700.

U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home accessories, to name just a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING

Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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shop stop

shop stop

COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men.

Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics.

VOLKER LANG STORE

With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Fall-Winter 2016 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.

Accessory heaven in Mulackstraße. The brand VOLKER LANG has been known for more than 30 years for its colorful leather accessories.

The Berlin branch opened on Mulackstraße in 2009 and has been showcasing the label's renowned waiter wallets and leather bags ever since. Mon–Fri 12pm–7pm, Sat 11:30am–6:30pm.

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

Mulackstr. 37. T: 030 28493704 www.volkerlang.de shop stop

HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE

TORSTRASSE

Modomoto Atelier Einhundert

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Rosenthaler Platz TORS

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No 74

SE Kaviar Gauche

An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

shop stop

shop stop

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Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand has a store in Berlin. Check out the classic 59FIFTY baseball cap and a number of other designs, for both men and women. Don't miss the autumn apparel collection in the Berlin flagship store.

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Lala Berlin Rosa-Luxemburg Platz Wolfen Germany Boutique Ganni Berlin MULA RASSE VOLK T S T S ER LA CKSTR Cotélac AUGU Greta NG S ASSE tore & Luis Ka STE tje INS Trippen TRA sC SSE afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka L REBECCA HIRT Be ieb Oh SOP ENS Bimba y Lola n S es r HIE TRA he kin NST SSE Weinmeisterstr.

Freitag RAS rman d 11 SE Trüffelschwein Ma Wrangler vi Oakley Porsche Design Blush Lingerie MÜ Promobo Michael Kors NZ A MCM did STRAS Strellson Gretchen Store SE as Dr IK We yk KS ekd Bu Home on earth ay designer depot UN ffalo orn IQ Hackesche Höfe LO Boots & Shoes Mykita KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store

shop stop

TRÜFFELSCHWEIN

REBECCA STORE

DESIGNER DEPOT

The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed.

He simply looks better than everybody else.

Trüffelschwein carries a seletion of handpicked niche brands from Europe and beyond, featuring a dynamic mix of craftsmanship and modern aesthetics. Brands include YMC, Hansen and Universal Works.

With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Tibi and Alice+Olivia, and all items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad.

Since 2002, this fashion outlet boutique has been offering high class fashion and accessories from major international labels at up to 50% off the original price. Check out their selection, which ranges from unique pieces to dressy garments. Tax Free available.

Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030 70221225 www.trueffelschweinberlin.com

Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780 www.rebecca-berlin.de

Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net

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SHOPPING

shop stop

ADVERTORIAL

The workshop of fine scents PROMOBO Pick up something totally unique at Promobo, a shop concept dedicated to fun, offbeat, eyecatching design objects. Many of the home décor items, fashion, and gifts are made in small workshops around Germany using recycled materials.

Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. T: 030 30347671 www.promobo.de shop stop

UNIQLO High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters.

Mon-Sat 10am to 9pm.

Rosenthaler Str. 42 www.uniqlo.com/de

shop stop

FRAU TONIS PARFUM, near Checkpoint Charlie Almost 85 years ago, film legend Marlene Dietrich fell in love with one very special scent: NO. 37 – Pure Violet. Today, this scent, along with three dozen other select, modern manufacture perfumes, all made in Berlin, can be discovered at FRAU TONIS PARFUM. Vogue Germany describes a visit to the “workshop of fine scents” as “nothing less than a poetic saunter through the sensuous underbrush of one’s own past.” The manufacture’s scent portfolio includes vitalizing classics such as “Berlin Summer” and “Linde Berlin” but also such olfactory stunners as “Aventure”, with notes of cedar wood, or “OUD Weiss”, with incense and amber. Discerning scent aficionados are also given the opportunity to create their own, customized scent in the elegant store near Checkpoint Charlie. The beautiful Online Shop not only stocks all products for global shipping, but also offers an inspiring Scent Test that will lead perfume enthusiasts to their favorite scent in five quick questions.

Zimmerstraße 13, 10969 Berlin, Tel. +49 30 20 21 53 10, www.frau-tonis-parfum.com big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16.

T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966.

U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Gretchen Store Berlin Eclectic combinations of shiny glazed and waxed leathers and elaborate design elements are distinct to the Berlin-based Gretchen look. On offer are exclusive leather bags and accessories, including the signature, award-winning Tango Pouch. www.mygretchen.com. Rosenthalerstr. 4041, Hackesche Höfe, Hof 4. T: 030.20215165.

S Hackesher Markt, U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Marc Cain

HOME ON EARTH Barcelona-founded Home on Earth offers products combining sustainability and Nordic design, each produced without wasting any resources. Using almost exclusively natural materials such as bamboo, wool, coconut, mango and hemp, this store just opened its first branch in Berlin.

Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. www.homeonearth.com

A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany.

Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com.

Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations.

T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte.

E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Meyer & Nehls This intimate boutique is geared towards selfconfident, independent women who appreciate good fashion advice and prefer to steer clear of the “off-the-shelf” look. Owners Lars and Frank Nehls have filled their store with beautiful clothes for that special occasions, and also business attire and casual outfits. www.meyerundnehls.de. Bleibtreustr. 13. T: 030 88678578. S Savignyplatz. B4

Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, beloved by celebrities. Comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1.

T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes

by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

Planet Berlin Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717.

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F A L K E · P.O.BOX 11 09 - D-57376 SCHMALLENBERG / GERMANY

FALKE CELLULITE CONTROL, TIGHTS Art. No. 40520 / PANTY Art. No. 40523

LEG AESTHETICS

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cellulite control For beautiful legs

STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 /13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95

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NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN

Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

SUNDAY SHOPPING: 04.09. | 1 PM - 6 PM

Strellson

18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G

The Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality for their suits and other urban wear, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Twin-Set Italian designer Simona Barbieri began her career in the 1990s focusing her activity on knitwear and female clothing, but soon after expanded her collection to add bags, lingerie, beachwear, and shoes. Today, Twin-Set is known internationally for its style, which is both elegant and feminine.

Mall of Berlin. T: 030.22152081. U Mohrenstraße. E3

www.alexacentre.com |

become a fan of ALEXA

Make it yours.

UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www. uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

Wolfen A Berlin-based brand specializing in knitwear items for both women and men. All products are made with natural fibers and finished by hand. www.wolfengermany.com. Auguststr. 41.

T: 030.49781966. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße.T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics.

Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50.

T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

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Shoes & Accessories

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SHOPPING bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels.

Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens.

Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49.

T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. F2

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500.

U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186.

T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße.

B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38.

T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

years and beyond the dictates of fashion.

Mulackstr. 37. T: 030.284937004. www. volker-lang-accessoires.de. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. F2

JEWELRY WELRY & W WATCHES

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world.

There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap. com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles. An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr.

30/31. T: 030 88675355.

U Uhlandstraße. B4

Giant stamp by Promobo (this page).

Oakley

Chopard

This store showcases Oakley’s entire assortment, from clothing to accessories, but the focus is on the eyewear, which uses the latest technology to cater to the needs of professional sportspeople and amateurs alike. www.oakley.com.

Rosenthaler Str. 34.

T: 030.23457770.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com.

Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980.

U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24.

T: 030.206039830.

U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Volker Lang The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag.

A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE

SHOES UK

US

CLOTHES Euro

UK

WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8 CINQUE LP12 Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12 Cadenzza, Escada by Cadenzza Friedrichstr. 17 NAVYBOOT Store Kurfürstendamm 40/41

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

XS S M L

6 8 10 12 14 16

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

WOMEN 36 37 38 39 41 42

MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

US

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

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reisenthel Store im BIKINI Berlin Budapester StraĂ&#x;e 38-50 | 10787 Berlin

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

The Hidden Island Considering that 35 percent of central Berlin was destroyed by Allied air raids in WWII, it's clear that finding neighborhoods entirely unscathed by bombs can be a difficult task in this city.

One such neighborhood is the Rote Insel, literally "Red Island," a small slice of Schöneberg that still retains its pre-war flavor. A walk around its tree-lined roads provides a glimpse of yesteryear Berlin, as well as informs about the city's urban history.

Bordered by railway lines (hence the name "island") forming a triangle between the S-Bahn stops of Schöneberg, Südkreuz, and Yorckstraße, the Insel is made up of imposing five-story apartment buildings constructed in three phases between 1882 and 1918.

While half of the area was initially used as Prussian army grounds, the buildings were soon populated by left-wing ("red") Berliners.

The Rote Insel's political character remained evident throughout the Nazi era: In 1933, an SA officer was murdered here by a local,

causing the enraged Nazis to temporarily rename the street after the murdered man.

And in the 1940s, resistance fighter Julius Leber, known for being one of the masterminds behind the 20 July plot against Hitler, opened his coal shop in a small building on Torgauer Straße, using the business as a cover for his political activity.

The best way to visit the area is to take the S-Bahn to JuliusLeber-Brücke and cross the street into Leberstraße, where a mural painting at no.

65 marks the building where Marlene Dietrich was born in 1901. Turn left to visit the dome-shaped, ivy-covered Königin-Luise Church on Gustav-MüllerPlatz. Walk around the church and into

Naumannstraße and you'll hit a monumental cemetery and, to the right, Naumann Park, formerly a parking area and now a redeveloped space for creative businesses, including design studios, vintage car dealers, and furniture ateliers, as well as climbing facilities, beach volleyball, and indoor golf fields.

The building that once housed Julius Leber's coal business still stands on Torgauer Str. 24, surrounded by signs with historic explanations, but the Insel's main landmark is without a doubt the gasometer, built in the early 1900s and now part of the city's skyline. To enjoy the view from the top, book a tour by emailing gasometer1@gmail.com.

photos © SRS

Solveig Steinhardt discovers an untouched piece of pre-war Berlin in one of Schöneberg's hidden corners.

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For more information on the

Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue.

Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the

pass visit wherepassBERLIN.com

Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961.

U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4.

ADVERTORIAL

Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating.

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41.

S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Let’s seg Berlin ways!

Want to be cultural while exploring Berlin in a unique way? CooLTourings offers guided Segway tours of Berlin's top 20 sightseeing highlights. Follow your guide and set off on your very own self-balancing electric Segway vehicle for a 1.5- or 3-hour Berlin City Center Tour along the Berlin Wall Trail and Spree River.

Book a group or private VIP tour online. www.Seg-Berlin-Ways.de. Meeting point: Hotel Riverside & Café, Friedrichstr. 106. T: 030 26321381. www.wheretraveler.com 37

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SIGHTSEEING police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www. topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8.

T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

Kids & Families Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult.

Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com.

Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Fresh, farm-picked strawberries are what may initially draw you to Karls Erlebnis-Dorf, just a 30-minute drive from the city center, but it’s the lively market hall and creative playground that will ensure you stay. The strawberry-themed park features a large indoor hall serving everything from candy sheets that are rolled and chopped before your eyes, pots of bubbling strawberry jam, a giant cotton candy dispenser, and a worldrecord collection of 27,000 teapots. Outside, the climbing tower, trampolines, go-carts, pony rides, farm animals, labyrinth, and five-lane potato-sack slide offer more active diversions, while the Eiszeit exhibition of ice-carved figures provides cool relief on hot days. Top off your visit with ample amounts of strawberry cake.

Döberitzer Heide 1, 14641 Elstal. T: 03 82024050. www.karls.de.

www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205.

T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111.

U Bernauer Straße. E2

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de.

Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content.

The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8.

T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de.

Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Madame Tussauds

Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, Stasi Prison One Direction, or a host of other Frederick II, the King of MUST SEE Between 1945 and famous names in entertainment Prussia, did not like the 1989, more than 20,000 people and politics. And, yes, there's German language and suspected of opposing the East even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted preferred to write in French German political system were as a little man standing in despair despite his poor grammar arrested by the Stasi (secret police) in his bunker during his final in that language. and brought to this custody building. days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until In its first and darkest years, the 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, were used to inflict psychological torture on the LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www. inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are madametussauds.com. on the upper floors, next to a seemingly Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3 never-ending corridor lined with interrogation Sea Life & AquaDom rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets central institutions of the SS and Third Reich

courtesy of karls erlebnis-dorf.

Berry Surprised

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SIGHTSEEING

If you’re planning a visit to Tiergarten park, the perfect time to go is Sunday at 3pm, when a free concert is held at Europe's largest carillon. Housed in a 42-meter-tall tower, the instrument is played by carillonneur Jeffrey Bossin using a traditional baton-and-pedal keyboard. Enjoy the performance while lazing on the grass around the base of the tower, where the bass bells are best heard and from where you can watch Bossin bashing away with fists and feet. But don't worry if you can't find a suitable seat: The bells can be heard from 200 meters away. The program includes music written for carillon as well as arrangements of classical and popular works by composers such as Bach, Mendelssohn, and Gershwin.

Afterwards, Bossin offers guided tours through the tower, which boasts a unique view of Berlin’s government quarter.

Corner John-Foster-Dulles-Allee and Große Querallee.

T: 030 8512828. www.carillon-berlin.de available. www.visitsealife.com.

Spandauer Str. 3.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Potsdam Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de.

Georg-Halemann-Allee 99. T: 0331.550740.

Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam.

T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

River Trips Exclusiv Yachtcharter This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusivyachtcharter.de. T: 030.43666836.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.

Tours & GUIDED Walks Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www. berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105.

T: 030.49910517.

CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Fat Tire Bike Tours Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com.

Panoramastr. 1a.T: 030.24047991.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de.

Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg.

T: 0331.7212750.

S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

At the Gärten der Welt park in Marzahn (www.gruen-berlin.de), visitors explore plants and gardening styles from as nearby as Italy and as far away as Japan.

Carillon: Courtesy of Carillon Berlin; japanese Garden: courtesy of grün berlin.

Chiming Of The Bells

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Maximum Ticket. Maximum Berlin.

All public transport for 48 or 72 hours, incl. SXF Airport, Potsdam Sanssouci, Memorial Sachsenhausen Exclusive 156-page guidebook filled with tips, a city map, and public transport map Save up to 50 % on many of Berlin‘s top attractions Also available as PREMIUM Ticket including hop on – hop off tour Available at

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and selected hotels

17/08/2016 09:07

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Top and bottom left: two shots

by Thomas Struth. Right Berenice Abbott's portrait of James Joyce.

What Is Contemporary Art? Berlin's multitude of publicly funded museums, galleries, and exhibition spaces is evidence of the strong artistic synergy between the city and its artists. To celebrate this connection, the annual Berlin Art Week brings contemporary art fairs, special exhibition openings, installations, and performances to various venues around town.

This year, Art Week events revolve around two fairs that represent the city's most prominent contemporary artists and galleries. abc art berlin contemporary is known for providing select German and international galleries with a forum to present their artists’ work. To reflect the experimental and ever-changing nature of the city, abc has chosen a unique location, Station Berlin in Kreuzberg (Luckenwalder Str. 4-6), a former train station turned event space, whose brick walls and converted features make it an attraction in its own right.

The second art fair, Positions Berlin, focuses

on international galleries, capitalizing on the city's cosmopolitan climate to promote and divulge new artistic trends. The art shows, taking place at Postbahnhof, are rounded out with award ceremonies, performances, and talks.

In addition to these two umbrella events, 14 partner institutions present their individual shows and exhibitions.

Opening on 14 September, Anne Imhof's ANGST 2 at Hamburger Bahnhof (p. 47) showcases an atmospheric conglomeration of disturbance, beauty, music, and choreographed acting through images that transform throughout the duration of the exhibition. At C/O Berlin (p. 47) in Charlottenburg, Gordon Parks. I Am You.

Selected Works. 1934-1978 opens on 10 September, with Parks’ powerful photography bringing to light the historical oppression in American society.

DADA Africa at Berlinische Galerie (p. 47) celebrates the centennial of the aforementioned art movement in a non-European slant, with pieces juxtaposed with works from Africa, Asia, and Oceania, while on 15 September, the Berlinische Galerie presents the work of 2016 GASAG Art Prize winner Andreas Greiner, who uses natural forms, from microorganisms to fattened hens and biological processes, to describe the relationship between nature and people in our industrial society.

13-18 September. www.berlinartweek.de

abc art berlin contemporary, Berlin Art Week 2015; Photo Alexander Rentsch.

Can the essence of human existence be expressed visually? Serene Tseng spends Berlin Art Week looking for answers in contemporary art.

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BERLINER GALERIEN

NEW

The citywide art guide BERLINER GALERIEN contains the current exhibition program for Berlin‘s art galleries and museums. Easy-to-use street maps provide clear directions to the exhibition venues.

The guide is available free of charge at Berlin’s art galleries and museums, visitBerlin tourist information, selected hotels, restaurants, bars.

Pick it up!

The art guide BERLINER GALERIEN is ONLINE now! www.berliner-galerien.de Find all contemporary art events, locations, artists and districts of Berlin in a responsive web design with geolocation service.

Usable for all mobile devices (Android and iOS).

BERLINER GALERIEN also provides a weekly newsletter you can subscribe to online.

Join the art life of Berlin!

Be there!

M E M B E R S Galerie Albrecht Art Cru Axmann Kunst Galerie Galerie Berlin Galerie Berlin-Baku Galerie Bernet Bertram Bernheimer Contemporary Galerie Brockstedt Brutto Gusto C&K Galerie Camera Work Circle Culture Gallery De Freo Gallery Galerie Deschler Galerie Horst Dietrich Galerie Kai Dikhas Galerie Dittmar Edition Block Galerie Eigenheim Entretempo Kitchen Gallery Galerie Friedmann-Hahn Galerie Gerken Grundemark Nilsson Gallery Galerie Michael Haas Galerie Hartwich Rügen Galerie Hirschmann Carlos Hulsch Galerie Galerie Hunchentoot Galerie Irrgang Janinebeangallery Jarmuschek + Partner Jordan/Seydoux – Drawings and Prints Köppe Contemporary Galerie Hilaneh von Kories Galerie Kornfeld Galerie Kremers Lee Galerie Berlin Galerie Leo. Coppi Galerie Gilla Lörcher Anna Jill Lüpertz Gallery Galerie Martin Mertens Mianki. Gallery Migrant Birds Galerie Robert Morat – Schauraum Berlin Salongalerie Die Möwe Mutare. Galerie für zeitgenössische Kunst Neue Galerie Berlin Galerie Georg Nothelfer Photo Edition Berlin Podbielski Contemporary Galerie Poll Michael Reid Berlin Galerie P.W. Richard Galerie Root Schmalfuss Berlin Contemporary Fine Arts Galerie Thomas Schulte Galerie Michael Schultz Semjon Contemporary Galerie Sievi Galerie Springer Berlin Stella A. Subject Object – Art Involvement Tammen & Partner TVD Art Galerie Westphal Berlin. Kunst & Projekte Michael J. Wewerka Galerie Wichtendahl Galerie Woeske Gallery Zellermayer Galerie Zilberman Gallery Zone E S U S T A I N I N G M E M B E R Allianz Deutschland AG - Repräsentanz Berlin

PUBLISHER Galleries Association of Berlin (lvbg)

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MANAGING BOARD Werner Tammen Andreas Herrmann Nana Poll MANAGING DIRECTOR Anemone Vostell EDITOR ART CALENDAR Frank J. Hofmann, M.A. kunstkalender@berliner-galerien.de

berliner-galerien.de 08/08/2016 12:18

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Altes Museum

l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen

Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To Jun 2017: Dangerous Perfection: Antique grave-vases from Apulia. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie (worth

2,80€)

open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Valid until October, 31st 2016.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

Take a walk though

Berlin’s history

A splendorous collection of 19th-century art.

Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 19 Sep: Textile Design Today explores the ever-evolving world of textile design.

Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14.

T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 15 Oct: Thrace 3.0. Coinage in the Land of Orpheus. The coins of the ancient region of Thrace, Greece, and European Turkey. To 31 Dec: ONE GOD – Abraham’s Legacy on the Nile. Jews, Christians, and Muslims in Egypt from Antiquity until the Middle Ages. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben.

T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan-Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehanmuseum.de. Schloßstr. 1a.

T: 030.32690600.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

©ISTOCK

Brücke Museum

®

Berlin

Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color.

Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel.

To 23 Oct: Emil Nolde. The Painter is a retrospective of the painter’s illuminating

works. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.brueckemuseum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029.

U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. From 16 Sep: Cameroon and Kongo – a search of traces and phantom photography from Andréas Lang. To 16 Oct: Multicultural. Germany, a Country of Immigration follows the historical migration movements into Germany, from the quest workers of the 1960s up to the refugees of today. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2.

T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments.

Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540.

U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum) One of the world’s largest and most significant institutions for archiving, researching, and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 31 Oct: Ken. To be destroyed tells the private story of Ken, who was transgender, and Hazel Houston’s relationship through letters and photographs inherited by artist/ photographer Sara Davidmann. To 18 Sep: Millionaires can be trans* // You are so brave* explores parallel themes of narratives of trans individuals and the cisgender-centric notion of equating being trans with bravery. To 20 Nov: Am I Dandy?

Instructions on how to lead an extravagant life explores the definition of a "dandy." Sun– Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum.de.

Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Masterpieces of Spanish handicrafts, including richly decorated furniture, are on display this month at the Artesenía Artistica exhibit at Kunstgewerbemuseum (smb.museum).

Dress with Polka dots: Ballonkleid mit PolkadotsCristóbal Balenciaga, Paris 1958 Seidentaft, Länge: 102 cm© Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kunst-gewerbemuseum / Stephan Klonk

Museums

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Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. From 23 Sep: GOLEM presents the figure found in Jewish mysticism in its iterations in art and literature, questioning what it means to be human. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300.

U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

For Explorers!

Dress with Polka dots: Ballonkleid mit PolkadotsCristóbal Balenciaga, Paris 1958 Seidentaft, Länge: 102 cm© Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Kunst-gewerbemuseum / Stephan Klonk

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. To 21 Oct: The Cologne Käthe Kollwitz Museum as Guest in Berlin – Sketches and Prints from 1910/1911.

Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24.

T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. To 25 Sep: We're off then! Travel pictures from from Albrecht Dürer to Olafur Eliasson. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.smb. museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 3 Oct: Wolfgang Leber – 50 Years of Paintings follows the ever-changing metropolis through the eyes of the artist. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. From 16 Sep: Pina Bausch and the Dance Theatre delves into the influential work of the pioneer of modern dance theater. To 18 Sep: Thomas Struth: Nature & Politics is an exhibition following the contemporary photographer’s work from 2007-2015, exploring the interaction of human ambition and imagination with the complex structures around us. To 26 Sep: Voices of Dissent: Art in the GDR 1976-1989 reexamines the heroically dissident art from the GDR. To 3 Oct: Berenice Abbott – Photographs. Insight into the photographer and artist’s influence and lasting legacy. From 30 Sep: +ultra. knowledge & gestaltung explores the

merging boundaries of reality and simulation.

Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7.

T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591.

U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 30 Oct: Death in Naples – 125th Anniversary of the Death of Heinrich Schliemann pays homage to the archaeologist and excavator. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum. de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 9 Oct: Contrast Syria. Photographs by Mohamad al-Roumi is a photographic presentation of the artist’s multiethnic and multi-religious homeland. www.smb. museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Thomas Olbricht of me Collectors Room (p. 47) is a passionate fan of abstract art, and this month the collector has hand-picked his favorite pieces for the comprehensive, multisensory exhibition My Abstract World. In order to encourage viewers to draw their own personal conclusions on the significance of the art, Olbricht selected expressively bold works with intense color, combining pieces by younger painters with those of established artists, including Ali Banisadr, Paul Fägerskiöld, Katharina Grosse, and Ekrem Yalcindag. My Abstract World opens 14 September, kicking off Berlin Art Week. his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 16 Oct: Studio Cézanne. An electro-acoustic sound installation in four parts is an experimental and musical homage to Cézanne. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1.

T: 030.266424242.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Asian Art The important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Road. To 18 Sep: Summer Pleasures. A focus on landscapes, flowers, and birds that exemplify warm summers. To 8 Jan: Intersections: Contemporary Art and Tradition.

Works contemporary and traditional are presented together, inspiring new dialogue in their juxtaposition. To 8 Jan: Torii Rei: Ise. A fifteenpainting presentation of the city of Ise and the Ise Shinto shrine complex. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat– Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum.

Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242.

Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 20 Nov: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Portraits and street photography from Alice Springs, the widow of Helmut Newton; Helmut Newton’s paparazzi and police photography; and Dutch artist Mart Engelen’s film noir-inspired blackand-white portraits. To 8 Jan: Bernard Larsson.

Leaving is Entering. Works from the German-born photographer function as a visual record of the most pivotal moments in Berlin history. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–

The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr.

103. T: 030.5536854.

U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Art galleries Berlinische Galerie A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. From 15 Sep: Andreas Greiner. GASAG Art Prize 2016 winner Greiner uses art as a vehicle to challenge the industrial society and humanity’s relationship with nature. To 24 Oct: 12×12. Each year, the IBB Video Space features 12 innovative film and video artists in Berlin. To 7 Nov: Dada Africa celebrates the Dada centenary with works paired with artefacts originating from Africa, Asia, and Oceana. To 31 Oct: Modern Visionaries features the utopian paintings and drawings of members of the Glass Chain artistic movement. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de.

Alte Jakobstr. 124-128.

T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. From 10 Sep: Gordon Parks. I am you. Selected Works. 1934-1978. With his weapon of choice, Parks used his camera to capture injustice and the fight for equal rights. To 25 Sep: Talents 38. Method.

Sascha Kurmaz uses the power of perception and

Katharina Grosse, o.T., 2015, ∏ VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn

Color As Evocation And Power

Stasi Museum

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definition to push the power of photography. To 25 Sep: Poppy – Trails of Afghan Heroin, a photography and video installation detailing the effects of the drug and smuggle trade. To 25 Sep: Adam Jeppesen.

Out of Camp recounts the artist’s lone journey from the North Pole to Antarctica. To 4 Sep: Allure is a collection of photographs centering around the theme of allure and elegance. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www. co-berlin.org.Hardenbergstr. 22–24.

T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

addresses issues of migration, politically-enforced nomadism, feminism, gender, and Western regard of the Near East. To 6 Nov: Capital: Debt – Territory – Utopia uses art, film, and objects to explore what exactly is value and capital comprised of. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr.

50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Dalí – The Exhibition

Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles.

Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. From 9 Sep: Sven Drühl . Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €12.50. www.hausamwaldsee.de.

Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935.

U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work.

Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €11. www. daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 30 Oct: COMMON AFFAIRS – Revisiting the VIEWS Award – Contemporary Art from Poland. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutschebank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15.

T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Haus am Waldsee

20 Nov: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Tue–Sun 10am– 6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton. com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

me Collectors Room

Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” From 14 Sep: My Abstract World , bold and intense abstract art. Tue–Sun noon–6pm.

Berlin has more €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. museums (180) than 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger rainy days (106).

Straße. E2

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. To

Commercial Galleries Eigenheim, 13 to 18 Sep: Various artists: Real Image Kitchen. Linienstr. 130. www.galerieeigenheim.de; Berlin-Baku, 04 to 24 Sep: Ernst Leonhardt, Sabine Schneider, Hans-Jürgen Gabriel, Kornelius Wilkens: Passagier. Großgörschenstr. 7. www.galeriebb.de; Kai Dikhas, 10 to 24 Sep: Alfred Ullrich: Rolling Home. Prinzenstr. 84 (entrance 2). Aufbau Haus am Moritzplatz. www.kaidikhas. com; Horst Dietrich, 03 Sep to 1 Oct: Alexandra Huber: Come Together. Giesebrechtstr. 19. www. galeriedietrich.de; Galerie Root, 9 Sep to 7 Oct: Manfred Schieber, Gerard Mas: Appearance . Painting, drawing, Hardenbergstr. 9. www.galerie-root.de.

Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries.

Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 30 Oct: El Siglo de Oro. The Age of Velázquez follows the artistic depictions of major political and social developments in 17th century Spain. To 6 Nov: José de Ribera – Etchings. He was young and needed the money. Focuses on the few but remarkable works by the virtuosic Spanish printmaker. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 18 Sep: Auguste Rodin and Madame Hanako. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de.

Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144.

S Heerstraße. Off Map

Hamburger Bahnhof

©Märkisches Museum

Katharina Grosse, o.T., 2015, ∏ VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 18 Sep: Julian Rosefeldt.

Manifesto is an installation of 13 concurrentlyrunning films and monologues, all embodied and presented by Cate Blanchett. To 23 Oct: Gülsün Karamustafa. Chronographia presents Karamustafa’s highly influential works, in which she

Immortalizing The Past 50 Years Artists have long been inspired to make dynamic metropolises their subject. For Berlin painter and sculptor Wolfgang Leber, the city has served as the focal point of his creativity. Leber was born in 1936 and experienced the division of the city firsthand, as the building of the Berlin Wall abruptly ended his art education in West Berlin. Through Leber’s perspective and his colorfully expressive, snapshot-like impressions and compositions, half a century of city history and the lives of Berliners both come to life and remain frozen in time. Through 2 October, the Märkisches Museum (p. 45) presents 50 Years of Paintings, a retrospective of the artist's work and a way to experience and understand Berlin with new eyes. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Not-To-Miss German Specialties Want to eat like a local? Follow Hilda Hoy’s picks for the tastiest traditional German dishes around town.

Eisbein at Max & Moritz It translates as “ice leg,” but it’s actually a pork knuckle, slow-roasted into a homely but rich and tasty mass. Legend has it that back in the day, people would strap the leftover bone to the bottom of their shoes and go ice-skating – hence the name. Gnaw on this Berlin classic at Max & Moritz, a piece of pub history in the middle of Kreuzberg. Named after a classic children’s book, the pub opened in 1902 and has managed to preserve much of its original interior.

Oranienstr. 162, www.maxundmoritzberlin.de

Königsberger Klopse at Marjellchen Most every cuisine around the world has a famed meatball in its repertoire, and Königsberger Klopse are Germany’s favorite. The delicately seasoned meat morsels, bathed in caper cream sauce and served with boiled potatoes, are traditionally from Königsberg, land that once lay in the far eastern reaches of Prussia and now belongs to Russia.

Try them at Charlottenburg’s Marjellchen, a cozy, down-to-earth restaurant specializing in traditional East Prussian dishes.

Mommsenstr. 9, www. marjellchen-berlin.de Schnitzel at Schneeweiß Purists may argue that schnitzel has its roots in Austria, but let’s not get into that here. What’s important is that schnitzel is delicious, perhaps

no more delicious than at Friedrichshain’s Schneeweiß, a pretty, pure-white restaurant with an Alpine theme. Their veal schnitzel is thin, crispy, tender, and never greasy.

Simplonstr. 16, www.schneeweiss-berlin.de Wurst at Wilhelm Hoeck 1892 This classic pub in Wilmersdorf, which really does date back to 1892 and has the charming old wooden interior to prove it, has a couple of classic Wurst options on its menu, such as pan-fried Bockwurst and the unique (and highly recommended) Blutwurst, aka blood sausage or black pudding. The ones served here are made by the famed (and award-winning) Blutwurstmanufaktur of Neukölln and are a delicately seasoned treat, served with sautéed apples and potato puree.

Wilmersdorfer Str. 149, www.wilhelm-hoeck.de

schnitzel courtesy of schneeweiss; all other images: © istock.

Don’t be fooled by the name: Oktoberfest actually kicks off in September, both in its hometown of Munich and here in Berlin.

This month, in honor of the big beer festival that has become one of Germany’s most famous traditions, we’re shining the culinary spotlight on classic German cuisine, which just happens to go down very well with a tall stein of golden beer. Without further ado, these are the four dishes you won’t want to miss, and the best places to try them.

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SCHNITZEL COURTESY OF SCHNEEWEISS; ALL OTHER IMAGES: Š ISTOCK.

RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) ₏: under ₏15. ₏₏: ₏15–₏40. ₏₏₏: ₏40–₏80. ₏₏₏₏: over ₏80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlßssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

FINE DINING For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco PÊrez Catalan star chef Paco PÊrez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. ₏₏₏₏. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1.

T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil

First Floor Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. â‚Źâ‚Źâ‚Źâ‚Ź. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45.

T: 030.25021020.

S+U Zoologischer Garten, U KurfĂźrstendamm. C4

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. â‚Źâ‚Źâ‚Źâ‚Ź.

Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com.

Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363.

U FranzĂśsische StraĂ&#x;e. E3

Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com ǧ ͗ Ǥ

NEW

Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its dÊcor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. ₏₏₏₏. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3.

T: 030.590051234.

S Potsdamer Platz. D3

16./17. Sep. 2016

Oktoberfest

2 bonus days!

30. Sep. and 1. Oct. 2016

Maximilians.

Friedrichstr. 185 ¡ U-Bhf. Stadtmitte www.maximiliansberlin.de

Frßhsammers Sonja Frßhsammer is Berlin’s most celebrated female chef, and her culinary prowess was further confirmed when her restaurant received a Michelin star in late 2014. This gourmet getaway in a green corner of the city is much loved for its relaxed, approachable take on excellent cuisine. ₏₏₏. Thu– Fri L, Tue–Sat D. www.fruehsammers-restaurant. de. Flinsberger Platz 8. T: 030.89738628.

S Hohenzollerndamm. A5

Horvåth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. ₏₏₏. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a.

T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4 www.wheretraveler.com 49

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DINING Hugos On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine, with a well-earned reputation as one of Berlin's go-to gourmet destinations. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapesterstr. 2.

T: 030.26021263. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de.

Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196.

S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13.

T: 030.33006070.

S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu.

Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214.

U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€.

Tue–Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930.

U Kochstraße. E4

Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23.

T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Glass Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes

daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195.

T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes

fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6.

T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr.

49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRiedrichshain Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transitrestaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415.

S Ostkreuz. Off Map

Kreuzberg Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city.

The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr.

10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Jolesch Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www.jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4

Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website

for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house

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specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com.

Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203.

U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4

M A K E H UM MUS, NOT WA LLS.

Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint

Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities and journalists from the Tageszeitung newspaper upstairs. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23.

T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4

Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21.

T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4

MITTE Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot

of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47.

T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3

Hummus & Friends R E STAUR A N T & BA R Make your reservation: 0049.(0).30.55471454 info@hummus-and-friends.de Monday to Sunday: 10.30 am – 24:00 pm Oranienburger Straße 27, 10117 Berlin

www.hummus-and-friends.de

Chicago Williams BBQ American. A culinary ambassador for the American

BBQ tradition, Chicago Williams specializes in meat and more meat. Order a combo of sticky ribs, pulled pork, or jerk chicken, and sides like coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, or mashed potatoes. €€. Daily D. www.chicagowilliamsbbq. de. Hannoversche Str. 2. T: 030.28042422.

U Oranienburger Tor. E2

restaurant & club

köpenicker str. 16/17 kreuzberg www.spindlerklatt.berlin

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55.

T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Crackers German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158.

T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3

Dóttir Scandinavian. After Dóttir opened in the spring of 2015, chef Victoria Eliasdóttir quickly became known as something of a prodigy. The confident and very talented 20-something Icelandic chef creates minimalist yet potently delicious Nordic cuisine, with an emphasis on the freshest seafood available. €€€.

Tue–Sat D. www.dottirberlin.de. Mittelstr. 40.

T: 030.330060760. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins

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DINING raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333.

U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54.

T: 030.66408710. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians transports a piece of Bavaria to Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr.

185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3

Schöneberg Thanks in no small part to the book and movie The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, the confection known as Turkish delight has achieved fame well beyond the borders of its native Turkey, where it’s known as lokum. Given Berlin’s significant Turkish population, these sweet, prettily pastel treats with a texture similar to jelly beans are available across the city, but nobody can beat the delights from Confiserie Orientale. This simple, stylish shop and café in Mitte stocks top-quality lokum made by hand according to old-fashioned recipes, in flavors such as rose, pomegranate, or cardamom, with added pistachios and hazelnuts for some crunch. Get a selection wrapped up for a unique Berlin souvenir, or take a seat to nibble a few delights with a strong Turkish-style coffee and a wedge of baklava.

Linienstr. 113. T: 030.60925957. www.confiserie-orientale-berlin.com

reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin.com.

Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555.

U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Grill Royal German/French. A beloved

destination of Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com.

Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288.

S Friedrichstraße. E3

Katz Orange German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22.

T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more

than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de.

Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

It's standard to tip around 10% in Berlin restaurants.

Katjes Café Grün-Ohr Café. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop

and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and freshsqueezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32. T : 030.97894702. www.katjes.de. F2

Prenzlauer Berg I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is

Café Aroma Italian. A long-standing neighborhood favorite, the Italian restaurant believes in pairing highquality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere.

The Sunday brunch buffet is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€.

Mon–Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafearoma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5

Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine.

Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€.

Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54.

T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Tiergarten Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can sit in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or by the fireplace in winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2.

T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3

Joseph-Roth-Diele The warm, wood-paneled spot with 1920s charm is very popular at lunchtime, thanks to affordable, tasty daily specials. €. Mon–Fri L&D. www.joseph-roth-diele.de. Potsdamer Str. 75.

T: 030 26369884. U Kurfürstenstraße. D4

Paris-Moskau German/French. This rustic house, built in 1898 and lucky to survive two world wars, was a Russian restaurant in two of its past lives. Today, it seamlessly incorporates French, Russian, and German cuisines. €€€. Daily D. www.paris-moskau. de. Alt-Moabit 141. T: 030.3942081.

S+U Hauptbahnhof. D3 Kurfürstenstr. 58.

T: 030.26391918. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

© alice liefeld

Delightful Turkish Sweets

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THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT

Hark! Be That English I Hear? eine frau, die weiss, was sie will © iko freese/drama-berlin.de/komische oper.

Jenna Rose Robbins got seats to some of Berlin's best English-language shows.

With expats and travelers from around the globe converging on Berlin, English may not be the official language, but it has earned its status as the lingua franca. That means there’s no shortage of performances for the anglophone to enjoy, either at English-dedicated venues or one-off shows staged around town.

To get yourself acquainted with the city, head over to Kookaburra, a comedy club featuring the long-running, English-language How to Become a Berliner in One Hour? (13, 20, 27 September). Headliner Karsten Kaie promises to teach you the survival skills to navigate the capital during your visit, as well as deliver sidesplitting laughs based on everyday situations, from hailing a cab to paying your restaurant tab. On September 16, bar 1820 (Rosa-Luxembourg-Str. 41, www.liveberlin.co) plays host to the double bill of Danny O’Brien and Ger Staunton, two rising comedy talents from Ireland. O’Brien has played at the renowned Edinburgh Festival and lands in the

German capital after a round-the-world tour, while Staunton’s deadpan humor has earned him accolades that include “one of the best comedy writers in Ireland.”

Beginning 22 September, The ONE Grand Show takes up residency on the world’s largest theater stage, at the Friedrichstadt-Palast (p.

56). The glitz and glam gets upped a notch with costumes by legendary couturier Jean Paul Gaultier, perhaps most notorious as the designer of Madonna’s famed bullet-bra bustier. Because of the theater’s notoriety among visitors, Palast productions are geared toward an international audience—no language barrier here.

Even when the primary language isn’t English, several theaters make their productions accessible through surtitling (translations projected onto an above-stage screen). The Maxim-Gorki Theater’s (english. gorki.de) legacy for groundbreaking productions began well before the fall of the Berlin Wall and continues to this day, with

thought-provoking plays that have earned it a much-deserved reputation as one of the most progressive theaters in the city. September’s program includes Othello and Verrücktes Blut, a play that examines the theme of identity in today’s modern world.

Perhaps the most advanced theater to offer surtitles is the Komische Oper (p. 54), whose system offers several languages to choose from, then displays the text on the seatback in front of you. September’s calendar includes Richard Wagner’s Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg and Eine Frau, Die Weiß, Was Sie Will!

(A Woman Who Knows What She Wants), a musical comedy featuring two actors playing twenty different roles.

For cinephiles, the best bet is to head to CineStar at Potsdamer Platz (p. 55), which not only screens films in their original language (listed as OmU on theater schedules) but is also one of the few movie houses to sell salty (not sweet) popcorn—which is how it should be. www.wheretraveler.com 53

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S.I.C. Stars in Concert Veranstaltungs GmbH, Berlin

ENTERTAINMENT

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STARS LIVE ON STAGE

Ballet & Opera Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 9, 11, 17 Sep: Carmen (Bizet). 10, 18 Sep: Il barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). 16, 21, 24 Sep: Un ballo in maschera (Verdi). 25, 28 Sep: Cosí fan tutte (Mozart). www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

Bismarckstr. 35. T: 030.34384343.

U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper

Nacho Duato, at Komische Oper. www.staatsballettberlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 18, 21, 24, 27 Sep: Tosca (Puccini). 22, 25, 28 Sep: Don Giovanni (Mozart). www.staatsoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Classical Concerts

Young and daring opera productions won this theater the The Komische Oper brings title of Opera House of the Year back forgotten cabaret pieces 2013. Australian intendant Barrie and German operettas Chamber Music Hall of the Kosky is also the artistic director that were banned Philharmonie by the Nazis. of some of the performances, with Part of the Philharmonie, this concert mesmerizing results. 4 Sep: Season hall presents daily chamber-music opening, Peter Pan. 4, 16, 18, 24 Sep: concerts and free lunchtime concerts A woman who knows what she wants! (Oscar Tuesdays. 2–19 Sep: Musikfest. 23 Sep: Straus). 17 and 18 Sep: Turkish music festival.

Freiburger Barockorchester (cond. Bezuidenhout) 25 Sep: The Master Singers of Nuremberg (Wagner). plays CPR Bach, JC Bach, Mozart and Haydn. 28 www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57.

Sep: The Orchester des Musikgymnasiums Schloss T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3 Belvedere (cond Jörg Brückner) performs works

by Ligeti, Jacob, and Mendelssohn. 29 Sep: Carte Staatsballett Blanche, the Orchestra Academy of the Berliner Berlin’s ballet company currently performs Philharmoniker. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. at various locations. 3 Sep: Season opening Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. performance at Deutsche Oper. 2, 4, 5, 6 Sep: S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3 Romeo and Juliet (Berlioz, choreography by Sasha Waltz) at Deutsche Oper. 11, 23 Sep: Multiplicity, Konzerthaus Forms of Silence and Emptiness, Choreography by This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base

ESTREL FESTIVAL CENTER BERLIN WWW.STARS-IN-CONCERT.DE TICKETS: +49 (0)30 6831 6831 Wed – Sat 8:30 p.m., Sun 5:00 p.m. from 24 to 52,50 Euro plus fee

They may have a lot of haters out there, but that hasn’t stopped Nickelback from becoming one of Canada’s best-selling acts of all time. Even Foo Fighter frontman Dave Grohl has taken pot shots of the band on Twitter, but someone’s buying the 50 million albums they’ve sold worldwide. After cancelling last year’s Europe tour dates due to singer Chad Kroeger’s health issues, the Silver Side Up rockers pick up where they left off, this time in support of their eighth studio album, No Fixed Address. Whether you’re a closeted fan or proudly out, catch the well-manscaped quartet – along with opening act Monster Truck, also from the Great White North – as they bring their tenth world tour to Mercedes-Benz Arena.

26 Sep. Mercedes-Benz Arena. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de

photo courtesy bb promotion

The World’s Most Hated Band?

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theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly.

Until 4 Sep: Young Euro Classic. 7 Sep: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Fischer) opens the new orchestra season. 11 Sep: The Syrian Expat Philharmonic Orchestra plays Syrian Sounds in Berlin.

12 Sep: Il Viaggio Musicale, music by Vivaldi, Scarlatti, and others. 16 Sep: The Rundfunk Orchester and Choir in concert. 18 Sep: The Berliner Bach Akademie perfoms Bach's Mass in B minor. 23 and 24 Sep: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. de Billy, violin de Faust) performs Dutilleux, Bartok, and Ravel. www.konzerthaus.de.

Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101.

U Hausvogteiplatz. E3

Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm.

Until 20 Sep: Musikfest. 9–10 Sep: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Nelson) perform works by Debussy and Berlioz. 15–17 Sep: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. John Adams, Josefowicz violin) perform works by John Adams. 22–24 Sep: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Daniele Gatti) performs Honegger, Dutilleux, Debussy.

29 and 30 Sep: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond.

Honeck) perform Dvorák, Strauss, and Schubert. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de.

Tickets: 030.20298715.

Hundreds of listings every month

Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Rock, Pop, Jazz Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts.

25 Sep: Ben Harper and the Innocent Criminals in concert. www.columbia-theater.de.

Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814.

U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5 The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www.havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30.

T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program.

3 Sep: Soul Explosion. 10 Sep: Balkanbeats. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

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Havanna

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ENTERTAINMENT

Classical Iconoclasts Filled with both earnestness and humor, Salut Salon’s performances offer a refreshing change from those of other chamber music ensembles. Composed of two violinists, a cellist, and a pianist, the Hamburg-based quartet has become a YouTube sensation thanks to videos showcasing their combination of genuine virtuosity and pop-classical fusion. Throw in some musical acrobatics – playing violins upside down, dueling with a bass violin – and you’ve got a group that’s been hailed as “the Harlem Globetrotters of string quartets.” The musicians take their latest performance, Ein Karneval der Tiere und Andere Phantasien (A Carnival of Animals and Other Fantasies), on tour to showcase their own compositions as well as those of well-known masters, including Camille Saint-Saëns’ own Carnival.

21-23 Sep. Berliner Ensemble. www.berliner-ensemble.de

Triple Englishness at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!

Now: IMAX goes IMAX Laser!

Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen!

Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More Info and tickets at cinestar.de

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären.

14 Sep: Justin Bieber. 26 Sep: Nickelback. www. mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30.

T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance.

17 Sep: Matthew Barney. 30 Sep–2 Oct: Salsa Congress. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10.

Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. 16 Sep: Vladimir Korneev performs French and Russian songs. www.bar-jedervernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582.

U Spichernstraße. C4

Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and

comedy. The few spoken words are in English.

Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Underart, a new circus performance by CirkusCirkör. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41.

T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater.

From 22 Sep: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3

Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater.

Many shows are in German. To 4 Sep: Cabaret, The Musical. 12–14 Sep: Starman. www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550.

U Bundestag. D3

Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de.

Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

Photo by André Reinke

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

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MUSIKFEST PROGRAM Every year, the Musikfest celebrates the start of the classical music season at the city's most important concert halls. Visit www.berlinerfestspiele.de/ musikfestberlin for more info and tickets.

2 Sep – GrauSchumacher Piano Duo: Manoury at Kammermusiksaal; Isabelle Faust: Nono at Kammermusiksaal.

3 Sep – The Symphonieorchester des Bayerischen Rundfunks: Rihm's Tutuguri at the Philharmonie.

5 Sep – The Danish String Quartet: Shostakovich, Beethoven at Kammermusiksaal.

6 Sep – The Münchner Philharmoniker: Ustvolskaya / Shostakovich at the Philharmonie.

7 Sep – Orchester und Chor der Deutschen Oper Berlin: Langgaard and Wagner at the Philharmonie.

8 Sep – Konzerthausorchester Berlin: Henze and Bruckner at the Philharmonie.

9 Sep – Ensemble Intercontemporain: Pintscher and Rihm at Haus der Berliner Festspiele; The Berliner Philharmoniker: Debussy, Varèse, Berlioz at the Philharmonie.

10 Sep – IPPNW Charity Concert: music by Beethoven and Shostakovich at Kammermusiksaal.

The best events in town

Conductor Daniel Harding.

11 Sep – The Deutsches SymphonieOrchester Berlin: Ligeti, Neuwirth, Dvorák at the Philharmonie.

12 Sep – Pierre-Laurent Aimard, Tamara Stefanovich: Homage à Pierre Boulez at Kammermusiksaal.

13 Sep – The Orquesta Sinfónica Simón Bolívar de Venezuela: Villa-Lobos and Messiaen at the Philharmonie.

14 Sep – The Bayerisches Staatsorchester: Ligeti, Bartók, Strauss at the Philharmonie.

15 Sep – The Berliner Philharmoniker: John Adams at the Philharmonie.

17 Sep – Tabea Zimmermann & Ensemble Resonanz perform Schubert, Poppe, Saunders at Kammermusiksaal.

18 Sep – Ensemble Musikfabrik performs Varèse and Frank Zappa at Haus der Berliner Festspiele.

19 and 20 Sep – The Staatskapelle Berlin plays Elgar at the Philharmonie.

©ISTOCK

PHOTO BY MATHIAS AHLM

16 Sep – Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Film concert at Konzerthaus Berlin.

®

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Top: The bar at Reingold; the Reingold staff; Bottom: Destille.

Kneipe Or Lokal?

When hitting the town, it’s all about the atmosphere, and the city’s wide variety of nightlife options means that – somewhere out there – there’s a barstool with your name on it. And if it’s local flavor you’re after, look no further than these Kneipen and Lokale for a bona fide Berlin experience.

Similar to a British pub, a Lokal acts as both a grub and grog dispensary and a communal gathering place, whether that be to knock back pints or root for a favorite sports team with like-minded fans. In the Bergmannkiez neighborhood of Kreuzberg, Destille (Mehringdamm 67, www.destille-kreuzberg. de) fetes the everyman by starting off the day with regulars out front sipping coffee, nibbling on light fare, and people-watching, then later transforms into a raucous magnet for locals. Since 1870, patrons have come here to chat with their neighbors, enjoy a cold one, and occasionally break out in song,

sloshing beer suds on the bar as they give it their all.

Over in Charlottenburg, Dicke Wirtin (Carmerstr. 9, www.dicke-wirtin.de) is something of an institution, having catered to thirsty clientele for more than 80 years.

And while the venue brands itself as a Kneipe, most Berliners would agree it has more the vibe of a Lokal, not least due to its menu of traditional German dishes that come in super-sized portions. Several beers on tap and more than 30 house brandies and liqueurs set this Lokal/Kneipe apart from the others, while an unassuming appearance keeps the atmosphere as warm and casual as when original owner Anna Stanscheck ran the establishment back in the early 1900s.

A Kneipe, on the other hand, may serve food but doesn’t forget what’s most important in fostering communal spirit: alcohol. And while each Kneipe tends to attract its own flavor of patron – punk-rock,

sports-loving, digerati – and flaunts its own particular ambiance, anyone is welcome, so long as a drink is in hand. For a step back in time, head over to Reingold (p. 60), a speakeasy-style Mitte bar with gilded décor befitting its name. The out-of-the-way location means it's mostly locals stretched out in the plush chairs, enjoying one of the house-specialty cocktails. Just make sure to keep it classic when ordering: Frou-frou drinks are frowned upon by the bartenders.

Die-hard metalheads congregate at Paules Metal-Eck (Krossener Str. 15) in Friedrichshain. Befitting the theme, handaxes and gothic accoutrements adorn the walls, while pool and foosball tables invite friendly competitions among customers, many of who sport numerous facial piercings. Even if you’re not a card-carrying member of the head-banging crowd, Paules welcomes you with open arms – just don’t ask them to turn down the music.

reingold: courtesy of reingold; destille: photos by jenna rose robbins.

In an endeavor to live more like a local, Jenna Rose Robbins knocked a few back at some authentic German watering holes.

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Beer Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1.

T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9.

T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688.

U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Casinos Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

Clubs Adagio A popular destination for the posher crowds, the Potsdamer Platz dancehall is housed in a gorgeous vaulted cellar and furnished in decorativechic style. Fri–Sat 11pm–6am. www.adagio.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.2589890.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Amber Suite

© istock

reingold: courtesy of reingold; destille: photos by jenna rose robbins.

NIGHTLIFE

This fun club for over-27s is the perfect place to socialize while dancing and drinking. There are two dance floors (playing house, dance music, and black beats), three bar lounges, a buffet with barbecue in summer, and a pleasant terrace for chats under the stars. Open Fri from 7pm till late, Sat from 8pm. www.ambersuite.info. Mariendorfer Damm 1. T: 030.74070609.

U Ullsteinstraße. Off Map

Berghain/Panorama Bar Known as the “world capital of techno,” the club straddling the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain (thus the name) is famous for its incredible sound system, atmosphere, and ultraselected crowd: The doormen are known to be the toughest in town. Fri midnight–Mon morning. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof.

T: 030.29360210. S Ostbahnhof. G3

Clärchens Ballhaus Dance to a different style of music every night at this popular, century-old dance hall. It’s salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, cha cha on Thursday, and live Tanzkapelle on Friday and Saturday. Daily from 11pm. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. T: 030.2829295.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous, Felix has welcomed celebrities like Nicolas Cage, Robbie Williams, and Paris Hilton. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72.

T: 030.301117152. U Französische Straße. E3

Gretchen The DJs play funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this international and eclectic Kreuzberg club. Occasional live concerts. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21.

T: 030.25922702. U Mehringdamm, U Hallesches Tor. E4

Horns & Hooves This Prenzlauer Berg newcomer is an eccentric combination of a club, a piano bar, a cabaret, and a circus. www.hornsandhooves.de.

Danziger Str. 1.

U Eberswalder Str. F1

place to go for disco, R&B, Latin, dance, electro, house, and techno, played on five different dance floors. www.matrix-berlin.de. Warschauer Platz 18.

T: 030.29369990.

S+U Warschauer Straße. G4

The Pearl One of the most luxurious clubs in town attracts the poshest crowds, mostly due to a huge bar serving potent cocktails and a large dance floor populated by professional dancers. Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81.

T: 030.31518890. S+U Zoologischer Garten. G4

Prince Charles A stylish club set in an old swimming pool building.

Tiled walls and concrete flooring are the main elements of its décor. Cocktail bar in the evening, wild dance club at night. Fri–Sun night. www.princecharlesberlin.com. Prinzenstr. 85F. U Moritzplatz. F4

Puro Sky Lounge High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting, with fabulous views from the roof of the Europa Center. Dress up. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9-12. T: 030.26367875.

U Zoologischer Garten, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Roses Kitsch is the word at this fun gay- and straight-friendly Kreuzberg bar. Cheap drinks. Daily from 9pm.

Oranienstr. 187.

T: 030.6156570.

U Kottbusser Tor. F4

House of Weekend

Salon zur Wilden Renate

Set atop a tall building in Alexanderplatz, House of Weekend is spread over three floors, including a rooftop terrace for the summer. The fabulous views match the music: The DJs are among the best in the world. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-endberlin.de. Alexanderplatz 7. T: 030.24631676.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

In an old residential building on the cooler side of Friedrichshain, Wilde Renate is hugely popular with young and wild Berliners.

Antlers, grand pianos, and heavy curtains create the atmosphere, and the sound system is impeccable. Thu–Sat from midnight. www.renate.cc.

Alt-Stralau 70.

T: 030.25041426. S Treptower Park, S Ostkreuz. H4

Kater Blau

Soda Club

Born out of the ashes of the legendary Katerholzig club, Kater Blau features a top-notch soundsystem driving beats from the best DJs. Raucous weekend parties with a carnival-like atmosphere. The place to go for those who don’t get past the bouncer at Berghain. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau. de. Holzmarktstr. 25. S Ostbahnhof. G3

This Prenzlauer Berg instituition is a hot weekend location for locals and visitors alike. From Thursday to Sunday, dance all night to electro and techno. www. soda-berlin.de. Alte Kantine, Knaackstr. 97.

T: 030.44315155. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

Tresor Housed in the safe of an old department store, Tresor was

Matrix Located under the basement vaults of the Warschauer Straße railway station, this club is the

Prenzlauer Berg's Bryk Bar (Rykestr. 18) is renowned for its top-shelf cocktails, like the classic gin and tonic.

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NIGHTLIFE the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. Its décor-free interior was exclusively designed for aficionados of the music genre. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70.

T: 030.69537731.

S Ostbahnhof. F3

Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. The modern interior boasts floor-to-ceiling glass windows that overlook the water. Doors are tight on weekends.

Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49.

T: 030.61280394.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Wine & Cocktails Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar.

Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11.

T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Bebel Bar and Velvet Room The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat and rooftop terrace in summer.

9am–1am. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37.

T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3

Buck and Breck You’ll need to ring the doorbell to get into this tiny bar, hidden away next to a Mitte police station.

Sleek and elegant interior, dim lighting, and great drinks. Daily from 7pm. www.buckandbreck.com.

Brunnenstr. 177. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

entertainment program packed full with Moulin Rouge Burlesque nights to Studio 54 danceoffs, karaoke, and open mic on Sundays. www. knutschfleck-berlin.de. Alexanderstr. 3.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

Luzia Vintage furniture, Baroque elements, and decorated wallpaper give this comfy bar a bohemian feel. Probably the most luxurious bet on shabby Oranienstrasse. www.luzia.tc.

Oranienstr. 34. T: 030.81799958. U Kottbusser Tor, Moritzplatz. F4

LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Aperitivo appetizers also served. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www. hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090.

U Französische Straße. E3

Le Croco Bleu Expert bar staff puts great care into each of the elaborate, oftentimes inventive drinks they make, and creative presentation makes the drinking experience even more memorable. www.lecrocobleu.com. Prenzlauer Allee 242.

T: 151.58247804. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar. de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421.

U Französische Straße. E3

The Oscar Wilde Irish Pub The first Irish pub in Mitte, offering classics like Kilkenny and Guinness. Big screen for sporting events. Daily 10am-3am (Fri-Sat until 4am). www. oscar-wilde-irish-pub.de. Friedrichstr. 112a.

T: 030.2828166. U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de.

Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676.

U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden in summer. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafeberlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038.

U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. Open daily from noon to late evening. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030.

S Savignyplatz. C4

Victoria Bar Top-notch cocktails and a marvelous, elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. Open daily 6.30pm–3am (until 4am on Friday & Saturday). www.victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102. T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

Fragrances The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton. com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com.

Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555.

S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de.

Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515.

U Nollendorfplatz. D4 An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

Knutschfleck Cocktailbörse At Berlin’s first cocktail stock exchange, the more people drink, the more prices drop. Alongside an

Craft beer and an inventively designed menu are the calling cards of Redwood Bar in Mitte. Look for the glowing "BAR" sign. Bergstr. 25. www.redwoodbar.de

courtesy of redwood bar

Harry’s New York Bar

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THE GUIDE | ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

OBERBAUMBRÜCKE AND BRANDENBURGER TOR: © ISTOCK PHOTO; DIEGO VELÁZQUEZ: DIE DREI MUSIKANTEN, UM 1616-20 © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN, GEMÄLDEGALERIE / JÖRG P. ANDERS; GERHARD BUSKIES: COURTESY OF GERHARD BUSKIES.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes and Discount Cards Where Pass Berlin: public transport and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. Get it at the S-Bahn Berlin machines and service centers. www.wherepassberlin.com

BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

ASK THE CONCIERGE Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge.

Gerhard Buskies, of the Hilton Berlin, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does it mean to you personally to wear the Golden Keys?

The Golden Keys is an indispensable network of international concierges whose aim is to meet the special needs of guests. The keys metaphorically open locked doors to a world of experience in hotel service. I am very proud to be a part of this network.

What does your perfect day look like?

I like to meet friends for breakfast in one of the city’s many cafés.

Refueled, I enjoy walking through the districts of Berlin, because every neighborhood has its own unique character to discover. I also like visiting the city’s many galleries to let the art inspire me.

When you have visitors, where do you take them?

Brandenburg Gate and Museum Island are old favorites, but I also like to take them for walks in my neighborhood, Friedrichshain, with a pub crawl along Simon-Dach-Straße, a visit to the weekly market on Boxhagenerplatz and the trendy area of Revaler Straße, and a kayak trip around the Stralau Peninsula.

Any secret tips for Berlin?

The baroque Schloss (Castle) Köpenick is located on an island in the Dahme River near the Köpenicker Altstadt. Just a few minutes away is the town hall where the legendary Captain of Köpenick stole the city treasure.

Some other secret tips of mine are a cruise on Müggelsee lake, which is surrounded by the Müggelberge hills, or a walk along the nature trails around Teufelssee lake.

Describe Berlin in three words.

Shrill, "Wall-less," en vogue.

What do you do after work?

Opera, concerts, food, friends, and sometimes just a regular TV evening.

What events do you recommend in September?

El Siglo de Oro: The Age of Velázquez at the Gemäldegalerie.

Favorite German specialty?

Königsberger Klopse (meatballs in a white sauce with capers) and boiled potatoes.

Berlin’s most romantic place?

The Paul and Paula shore on Rummelsburger lake at sunset overlooking the small yachts.

Images: Clockwise from top: Friedrichshain, Brandenburg Gate, a painting by Velázquez.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins.

Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be purchased on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn train system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run approx. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for www.wheretraveler.com 61

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ESSENTIALS

Concierge Secrets Want even more expert tips for the best food and drink around town?

We asked the concierges from Berlin’s top hotels about their favorite spots:

Stefanie Bäslack, Hotel Zoo: DINNER Martha’s (Grunewaldstr. 81, www.marthas. berlin). Modern, inventive European cuisine in Schöneberg.

Kochu Karu (Eberswalder Str. 35, www.kochukaru.de). Korean food with creative Spanish tapas influences.

DRINKS Bryk Bar (Rykestr. 18, www.bryk-bar.com).

Classy cocktails in Prenzlauer Berg.

Hops & Barley (Wühlischstr. 22, www. hopsandbarley-berlin.de). A microbrewery serving its own beers and cider.

Thomas Munko, The Ritz-Carlton: DINNER Yumcha Heroes (Weinbergsweg 8, www.yumchaheroes.de). Dumplings and other trendy Asian treats.

District Mot (Rosenthaler Str. 62, www. districtmot.com). Vietnamese food like you would eat on a Haiphong street.

N STATITOHE F O TH MON

Französische Straße There are many reasons to like U6 Französische Straße: The very central station is where locals and tourists alike disembark to head to the Komische Oper, stroll along Unter den Linden, shop at Galeries Lafayette, or feast on the famed schnitzel at Borchardt. But its days are numbered: When the current work to extend the U5 line is completed in 2019, Französische Straße will be closed and replaced with the joint U5/U6 Unter den Linden station. €17,30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven consecutive calendar days may be a better value at €30.

U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-European Union residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free shopping sign and ask for a "tax-free form" when shopping. Upon departure from the EU, purchased goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

Deutsche Bahn is the national railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, which operate around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield and internationally. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin’s great sights by bike and choose your own destinations.

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

www.callabike.de.

Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de.

T: 0163.5120124.

Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com.

The interior of District Mot

DRINKS Buck & Breck (Brunnenstr. 177). Ring the bell and hope for a seat at this tiny Mitte cocktail bar.

Victoria Bar (Potsdamer Str. 102, www.victoriabar.de). Elegant ambiance, modern art, and talented bartenders.

Toll number: 0180.6003690

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

MONEY SERVICES Banks and Foreign Exchange Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111.

T: 030.8904370.

IST TOUCROUNT DIS PASS

Where Pass Berlin

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U

Where now | brendan nash

Brendan Nash [Tour Guide & Author]

When he moved to Berlin from Britain seven years ago, he thought he was coming here to retire. But Brendan Nash instead became an avid researcher of the culture of 1920s Berlin, especially the raucous cabaret scene in Schöneberg. He shares the fascinating stories he’s dug up on his Cabaret Berlin blog, in his book A Walk Along The Ku'damm, and every Saturday morning on his popular walking tour, Isherwood’s Neighborhood – The Cabaret Tour. Visit the website for dates and to sign up. www.cabaret-berlin.com

How did you become interested in the history of 1920s Berlin, specifically its cabaret culture?

In a previous life, I was a cabaret performer in London in the 1980s. I went on to manage nightclubs and bars, moving to Scotland in the early 1990s. After relocating to Berlin, I was simply trying to find out more about the history of my new neighborhood, and it all grew from there. Now seven years have passed, and I’m still learning new things every week.

Is there something you find especially fascinating about Weimar-era Berlin?

The Weimar era was an extraordinarily short period of time, just 14 years, but it left such a remarkable legacy. Once you get started, you soon realize just how complex and troubled a time it was. The aftermath of a catastrophic world war had left people with the feeling that anything was possible and that the old rules no longer applied. The pace of social and technological change must have been exciting and breathtaking for some but unnerving and bewildering for others. Also, the comparisons to modern-day life and politics are too obvious to ignore.

What is one Cabaret Berlin tour location that people tend to be excited by?

It has to be the former Eldorado nightclub.

There aren’t many buildings from the period that are not only still standing but also still in everyday use. It's now an organic supermarket. Visitors get a thrill standing outside as I tell the story of the building’s history and of the people that came before. I have photos of the club and its customers from 1929, and, having now met the descendants of the club’s original owners, I have some extraordinary stories to pass on.

My guests are often visibly moved by what they hear and see.

What part of the city do you call home, and what drew you to it?

Home is a quiet side street in Schöneberg, just by Wittenbergplatz. It was always going to be Schöneberg – it instantly felt like home.

A favorite spot in your neighborhood?

There are so many. From the Finovo café in the Alter St.-Matthäus graveyard to the rooftop swimming pool of the Europa Center. The tranquility of Tiergarten is 10 minutes’ walk away and the cafés of

Nollendorfplatz are the same distance in the opposite direction.

When you have friends visiting, where you do you take them?

Potsdam, Pfaueninsel, and the gardens of Schloss Charlottenburg are perennial favorites. I always try and find something new to show people. Sometimes it’s the simple things, like a walk along the canal for lunch in the Schleusenkrug beer garden in Tiergarten, that do the trick.

If you had an entire day off to spend however you like, what would you do?

I would grab my bike and head off in the direction of the Grunewald and see which lake grabs my attention first, or which is the most deserted. That would be followed by an enormous late lunch on the terrace at the Scheune Restaurant by the S-Bahn station.

The menu is almost exclusively meat and potatoes, but I’m cycling, right? The evening would be spent at the Tipi am Kanzleramt, watching Cabaret, of course!

Clockwise from top left: The rooftop pool at Europa Center; Brendan Nash; cycling around Berlin; Cabaret, the Musical at Tipi am Kanzleramt; the Charlottenburg Palace; a hearty German meal.

Pool: courtesy of Thermen Europa Center: Brendan Nash: courtesy of Brendan Nash; bike, Charlottenburg Palace, and food: © Istock Photo; Cabaret: courtesy of tipi am Kanzleramt, photo by Wirdeier.

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