Where Berlin Oct 2016

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Berlin

CONTENTS

10.16 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com

The Plan Let’s get started

The Guide The best of Berlin

14

SHOPPING

20

5 Editor’s Note

XX

6 Hot Dates

Technology and gadget stores that will keep the boys occupied while the girls shop.

Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from light shows and rum festivals to horror nights.

SIGHTSEEING

36

XX

66

Pay your respects at the graves of the famous.

12

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

42

DINING

49

6

Sate all Spanish cravings XX friends at these with tapas-happy locations.

66 My Berlin Marianna Evenstein This TV presenter knows Berlin very well.

Berlin

BY JENNA ROSE ROBBINS ®

12 Industrial Poetry RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

YOU

CIT YR G UIDE

Berlin's abandoned factories and buildings transformed into techno clubs and cultural centers.

These cafés are more than just spots for getting your next caffeine hit.

Good drinks with a twist.

These themed bars guarantee a memorable night out.

BY HILDA HOY

It's the boys' turn to shine in the limelight.

From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.

BY CLAUDIA KOKSCH

BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT

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Marlene Dietrich. © Deutsche Kinemathek – Marlene Dietrich Collection Berlin. Shanghai Express 1931, photo by Don English.

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The legacy of Berlin's film goddess Marlene Dietrich.

NIGHTLIFE

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14 Cafés To Linger In

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10 Forever Marlene

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Where Now

Two new shows storm the stage: a Vegas-style production and a spectacular circus performance.

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Also Inside

ENTERTAINMENT

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4 W H E R E B E R L I n I O C TO B E R 2016

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WELCOME TO BERLIN

For The Love Of Art The fall is always an exciting month for culture lovers: With the start of the new concert season and a plethora of major exhibitions, it's time to get out our calendars and mark the most important cultural dates.

PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

This year, Berlin's museums have so many exhibitions in store, it's just going to be hard to pick. Fans of neoclassical art should not miss Canova and the Dance at the Bode Museum, which opens on 21 Oct with many of the sculptor's drawings and statues. From 13 Oct, the Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg will be presenting surrealist art, while from 19 Nov, the Museum Berggruen across the street will be comparing the works of great masters such as Picasso, Cézanne, and Matisse with those of American modernist painter George Condo.

You will have to wait until 11 Nov to delve into the hallucinogenic world of Flemish painter Hieronymus Bosch at the Gemäldegalerie, but meanwhile you can gaze at marvelous photography at C/O Berlin and at the Museum of Photography (p. 42), or learn about German history at the Martin-GropiusBau, where the exhibition The British View: Germany – Memories of a Nation, opening on 8 Oct, presents 200 British Museum artefacts that outline 600 years of German history.

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HOT

DATES October in Berlin is a month of exciting events, from food and rum festivals to lilluminations and lots of music.

BERLIN FOOD WEEK

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FROM SATURDAY

Foodies, prepare to take a big bite out of Berlin Food Week. The annual culinary smorgasbord at the enormous Kraftwerk hall features workshops, tastings, exhibitions, special dinners, and the Stadtmenü program, for which 50 Berlin restaurants across the city – including Jungbluth, Le Faubourg, and Nola’s am Weinberg – offer a special prix-fixe menu. With Mexico on board as this Food Week’s partner country, look out for spicy Mexican influences throughout the festival, not to mention delish tequila cocktails. www.berlinfoodweek.de

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

GERMAN RUM FESTIVAL SATURDAY & SUNDAY

15–16

Yo-ho-ho, and a bottle of rum! Once known as the drink of pirates and other swarthy seafarers, rum today is back in trend and living up to its connoisseur status.

Get to know some truly special and memorable rum varieties at the 6th German Rum Festival, taking place mid-month at STATION-Berlin. Look forward to sampling a stunning array of specialty rum brands from across the Caribbean, South and Central America, and even as far away as Japan. Cheers! www.rumfest-berlin.com

BERLIN LEUCHTET

1

FROM SATURDAY

The pretty pastel sunsets of summer may be behind us, but come October, the Berlin Leuchtet festival sets the city aglow in colorful lights every evening. The initiative brings prominent landmarks like the Siegessäule Victory Column, the Oberbaum Bridge, and the churches on Gendarmenmarkt to life with colorful light installations flickering across their façades.

Admire them every evening until 16 October on one of the custom light tours, by boat or double-decker bus. www.berlin-leuchtet.com

ZUCCHERO FRIDAY

28

He was born Adelmo Fornaciari, but he’s best known as Zucchero, or, even better, the “father of Italian blues.” Since launching his career in the late 1970s, Zucchero has sold more than 60 million albums around the world and collaborated with the likes of Eric Clapton, Sting, Miles Davis, and Bono. Boogie along with his unique Italian brand of soul-, blues-, and R&B-influenced music at this month’s concert at Mercedes-Benz Arena. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de www.wheretraveler.com 7

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Horror Nights

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FROM SATURday

Think you’ve got the guts to handle the city’s most frightful Halloween horror fest?

Get your fill of the spooky Halloween spirit at Horror Nights, the annual scare-fair held at Filmpark Babelsberg in Potsdam. The haunted houses, twisted labyrinths, and monsters, zombies, and mutants roaming the dark alleys are so scary, only visitors 16+ are allowed. Open 8, 14–15, 22, and 28–30 October. www.filmparkbabelsberg.de

Paul Simon

20 THURSday

More than five decades after recording his first smash hit (that would be The Sound of Silence, 1964), Paul Simon, folk rock legend and 12-time Grammy winner, is still going strong. Simon left behind his Simon & Garfunkel duo in 1970, and went on to build a successful and prolific solo career. At his concert at Tempodrom this month, he’ll be playing his latest, 13th album, Stranger To Stranger, which is both experimental and critically acclaimed. www.tempodrom.de

Schöneberg Pumpkin Festival

1–2

Saturday & Sunday

Every fall, the humble pumpkin is the star of the season. This month, the 17th annual Schöneberg Pumpkin Festival once again puts the cheerful orange squash at center stage. Besides an array of pumpkin delicacies both savory (pumpkin soup, lasagna, quiche), sweet (pumpkin cake, jam, chutney), and even alcoholic (pumpkin wine, anyone?), there will be live music and pumpkin carving stands for the kids. More than 10,000 pumpkins will be trucked in for the occasion. www.ms-event-agentur.com

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Hot Dates

October

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Explore Berlin's multifaceted urban food culture at the Stadt Land Food festival.

Get crafty at the Maker Faire at STATIONBerlin, a festival dedicated to DIY creativity.

Head to Brandenburg Gate to celebrate today's Day of German Unity holiday.

Admire the autumn foliage next to Schlachtensee while lunching at Fischerhütte.

Enjoy beer and Wurst under the chestnut trees at Prater, the city's oldest Biergarten.

The DOKU.ARTS documentary film festival kicks off today at the Zeughaus Kino (p. 56).

Fire jugglers, fireworks and a market light up the night at the Spandau Citadel's Lichterfest.

Enjoy the season's bounty at Domäne Dahlem's bucolic harvest festival all weekend.

Join the fun and sing your heart out at Mauerpark flea market's open-air karaoke.

Explore the legacy of legendary dancer Pina Bausch at Martin-Gropius-Bau. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm.

Prost! It's the last week of Oktoberfest at KurtSchumacher-Damm, open daily until Sun. Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun.

Electronica superstar Schiller promises a riveting show at Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight.

Enjoy a lively performance of Dvořák's lyric fairy tale opera Rusalka at Komische Oper.

Lordi, the monstrous Finnish metal band that won 2006 Eurovision, is at Columbia Theater.

Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English.

English rock legends The Cure will rock Mercedes-Benz Arena tonight.

Sample the famous Apfelstrudel at the historic, elegant Café Einstein Stammhaus.

Head to Friedrichstadt-Palast for The One, a splendid show featuring Gaultier costumes.

Hit the dance floor at Clärchens Ballhaus, Mitte's charming centenarian dance hall.

Mark the weekend with cocktails at Bryk, Prenzlauer Berg's chicest nightlife spot.

For antique fans, the Sunday flea market on Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must.

Explore German history in Martin-GropiusBau's new Memories of a Nation exhibit.

Visit Chamäleon Theater to see their newest circus show, the exciting & joy-filled Underart.

Delve into a world of secret intrigue at the thrilling Spy Museum by Potsdamer Platz.

Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum.

Toast to the weekend at Hopfenreich, featuring Berlin's biggest craft beer range.

Fancy a big night out? Enjoy decadent dinner, drinks, and dancing at Bar Tausend.

Picasso fans: don't miss the collection of masterful paintings at Museum Berggruen.

Sing along to Total Eclipse of the Heart at Bonnie Tyler's Tempodrom concert tonight.

Berlin food week: courtesy of berlin food week; german rum festival: photo by nady el tounsy; berlin leuchtet: photo by w. jahnke; zucchero: courtesy of press office; horror nights: courtesy of babelsberg film studio; paul simon: courtesy of live nation; pumpkin festival: © istock photo.

Where now | calendar

For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.

13/09/2016 09:52

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Jenna Rose Robbins made the pilgrimage to several unofficial shrines of Berlin’s own Blue Angel.

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tor’s Once tip yo u a the M re done visit a r ing lene D Collec ietric tio Kinem n at the De h u the cu athek , pay a tsche rrent e visit to x hibitio to Com n, Th e . Sc how fi ience Fictio ings n, on lm and TV imagin ed the have future .

dietrich galerie and marlene dietrich: courtesy of the marlene dietrich collection berlin, deutsche kinemathek. Photo by don english.

F

rench actor Maurice Chevalier once said, “Dietrich is something that never existed before and may never exist again. That’s a woman.”

The legacy Marlene Dietrich left on cinema – and Germany as a whole – cannot be underestimated. She was a luminary in the fledgling world of film, an iconoclast when it was least acceptable to be one, and an unwavering symbol of self-assuredness and individualism.

Today, Dietrich remains one of Berlin’s most famous and beloved natives, and a visit to at least one of her former haunts is practically compulsory. A logical place to start is in the Schöneberg district at Leberstraße 65, where the future starlet was born two days after Christmas in 1901.

The otherwise nondescript building bears both a plaque and a mural dedicated to the cinematic legend.

In her obituary, The New York Times called her “the quintessential cabaret entertainer of Weimar-era Germany,” which is fitting given that her entertainment career began in cabaret-studded Berlin.

While the Eldorado nightclub, famed for its decadence and anything-goes atmosphere, has long since shuttered, the doors of Charlottenburg’s Komödie Theater (Kurfürstendamm 206/209) are still open, and the venue still produces revues similar to the ones Dietrich starred in on its stage.

Just a short stroll away is the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (p. 37), where Dietrich exchanged vows with husband Rudolf Sieber. Although the two remained married until Sieber’s death in 1976, Dietrich was well known for her numerous romances, including affairs with Hollywood’s leading men – and, befitting her iconoclast nature, women. John Wayne, Claudette Colbert, Frank Sinatra, and – some say – John F. Kennedy are just a few of the names rumored to have been her romantic conquests.

Dietrich’s breakthrough role came with The Blue Angel, in which she played cabaret star and femme fatale Lola Lola. Much of the film was shot at nearby Potsdam’s Babelsberg Studio (p. 40), today Europe’s largest movie studio and home to the Marlene-Dietrich-Halle soundstage. The adjacent Filmpark Babelsberg offers fans a

A collection of Marlene Dietrich’s portraits at the Deutsche Kinemathek.

behind-the-scenes glimpse into the world of cinema, with vintage sets, rides, and shows laden with special effects.

In 1930, on the day The Blue Angel premiered, its star left Berlin to seek out her fame in Hollywood. Dietrich wouldn’t return to her hometown until 1945. The actress was staunchly anti-Nazi, refusing Hitler’s offer to return to Germany to continue her film career. Her wartime work earned her the Medal of Freedom, the U.S.’s highest award for a civilian.

Upon Dietrich’s death in 1992, the city of Berlin paid $5 million to secure her estate of roughly 300,000 pieces, the largest such acquisition in history. Much of this memorabilia can be viewed at the Deutsche Kinemathek - Museum for Film and TV (Potsdamer Str. 2. www.deutschekinemathek.de), a trove of German cinema, located, aptly enough, a stone’s throw from Marlene-Dietrich-Platz. Dietrich was nearly as important a fashion icon as she was a film star, and her predilection for pantsuits and other masculine-inspired attire can

be viewed at the museum’s permanent exhibition dedicated to her, along with letters, personal items, and even the screen test for The Blue Angel, which was long believed lost but was rediscovered shortly before her death.

Dietrich may have spent most of her life outside of her native country, but she reserved a place for it in her heart, recording numerous songs about Berlin, including Ich Hab’ Noch Einen Koffer in Berlin (I Still Have a Suitcase in Berlin), Das War in Schöneberg (That Was in Schöneberg), and an album featuring her interpretations of popular 20th-century Berliner tunes, which she considered her best musical work. Although she died in Paris, where she spent the last decade of her life in seclusion, Dietrich chose her hometown as her final resting place (p. 36), much to the delight of Berliners. But if further evidence is needed for the icon’s devotion to the German capital, one need only read the German title of her autobiography: Thank God I’m a Berliner.

Marlene

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Where now | INDUSTRIAL SPACES

Berlin’s post-INdustrial

revolution From old barges to swimming pools, water pumps to performance spaces, and power plants to clubs, Berlin’s abandoned industrial buildings are buzzing with life once more. Solveig Steinhardt went on a tour of the city’s most interesting repurposed factories and warehouses.

W

hen the Berlin Wall came down 27 years ago, Berliners woke up to a city filled with many abandoned factories and buildings just waiting to find a new purpose.

This abundance of large, low-cost, empty spaces is what made Berlin the unique city it still is today: It encouraged creative minds from all over the world to move here and open studios, showrooms, and performance halls, and it gave the city an informal, youthful face. While the first conversions happened in the early 1990s, when some private citizens turned factories into techno clubs and alternative cultural centers, transformations later became more organized and regulated, and today most of the onceempty warehouses have been renovated by architects to be turned into shops, restaurants, working spaces, and even homes with lots of urban history and character.

Culture Bricks In the early 1900s, many industrial buildings in Berlin were designed in the so-called brick-Gothic style, consisting of exposed brick facades, large windows, and geometric

The owners of J&V store; Right: restaurant Volt.

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ornamentation including tiles, bas reliefs, and artistic logos. A good example of this style is the Radialsystem V (Holzmarktstr.

33), a water-pumping station from 1885 now turned into a performance space for contemporary arts. The building was modernized in 1999 and expanded with a glass structure and a large terrace overlooking the Spree River.

Another building from that era is Kreuzberg’s former transformer station on Paul-Lincke-Ufer, which now houses the aptly named restaurant Volt (PaulLincke-Ufer 28), an established spot for sophisticated, contemporary German cuisine. The high ceilings and large windows are counterbalanced by low-hanging copper lamps and warm wooden tables, which add a cozy feel to the space. Not far from Volt is Arena (Eichenstr. 4), a brick and steel bus depot from the 1920s, now used for events and festivals, but mostly known for housing the popular Badeschiff, a floating swimming pool made from an old barge.

For a combination of factory style and interior design, visit restaurant Eins44 (Elbestr. 28/29) in Neukölln, created in a former distillery from the late 1800s. The tiled

Most of Berlin’s old factories and warehouses are now shops, restaurants, and cultural spaces with lots of urban history and character.

Kraftwerk; Below: Radialsystem V.

walls are a perfect background for the largesized photographs of what the distillery looked like right before renovations, and the factory lamps and wooden tables add that extra raw touch to the contemporary German dishes on the menu.

An even more impressive conversion is the Kulturbrauerei. This large brewery complex in Prenzlauer Berg was built in the 1870s and kept producing beer until 1967.

Repurposed in 1999, it now hosts a cinema, pubs, and clubs, and is the epicenter of the neighborhood’s nightlife.

COLD WAR RELICS

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One of the first reconverted factory spaces of the post-1989 era to achieve world fame was Berghain (Am Wriezener Bahnhof ). Said to be Europe’s most popular club, Berghain is housed inside a DDR-era power plant built in the 1950s in the socialist neoclassical style. Sold to the club owners in 2011 by the Vattenfall electricity company, the enormous building boasts an 18-m-high dance floor and space for 1500 partiers. The space is divided into a main room and a smaller space upstairs, the Panorama Bar. Another power station from that era, the Kraftwerk (Köpenicker Str. 70) is now used for events.

On the other side of the Spree, on Köpenicker Straße, the elegant and minimalist pan-Asian restaurant Spindler & Klatt (Köpenicker Str. 16) is housed inside a former industrial bakery. With a large terrace right on the Spree, this posh eatery feels more like a cruise ship than a factory.

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fittings from Berlin’s factories are in high demand. A good place for factory lamps is the Bergmannstraße flea market (Sat 9am– 4pm), which has a stand selling recovered industrial lighting. Or pay a visit to J&V Fine Industrial Vintage in Schöneberg (www. jandv.eu), where owners Jools and Vince restore items from old industrial complexes and warehouses. Their best-selling items are factory lamps and train station clocks, but you’ll also find metal furniture, old office chairs, neon letters, and other eyecatching objects. Another good source of industrial design items is Urban Industrial (Holzmarktstraße 19-23 /Arch of S-Bahn 4142), housed in the ex-industrial complex of Holzmarkt in Friedrichshain. The store stocks items such as porcelain clocks, metal office chairs, antique school benches, vintage gym equipment, drawer cabinets, factory warning signs, industrial relics from the GDR and the Soviet Union, and a plethora of Siemens lamps used in factories around town.

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WHERE NOW | CAFÉ LIFE

T

Not just good coffee, but a special atmosphere too: Hilda Hoy picked out her must-visit cafés all around the city.

he café is more than just a place for getting a cup of coffee. In previous generations, cafés and coffeehouses were where the literati gathered, where authors penned masterpieces, where art movements were birthed and political revolutions were plotted. These days, you’re far more likely to see the characters at a local café hunched over a laptop or paging through the latest lifestyle magazine. But both then and now, cafés are part of a city’s social and cultural fabric, a great place to people watch, while away a few hours, and, of course, get that all-important caffeine fix.

OLD IS GOLD Berlin never quite had the grand, opulent coffeehouse culture that, say, Vienna or Budapest did in the early 20th century, and what establishments the German capital did have were wiped out in WWII. Still, if it’s a more traditional, historical café experience you seek, a few special spots should be on your itinerary.

Foremost is Café Einstein Stammhaus (Kurfürstenstr. 58, www.cafeeinstein.com), an elegant coffeehouse in a Neo-Renaissance, 19th-century villa in Schöneberg. With gilded walls, soaring ceilings, and marble tabletops, the look is modeled after the classy coffeehouses of turn-of-the-century Vienna.

Head there for a milky Wiener Melange coffee with warm Apfelstrudel on the side, a deluxe breakfast, or a classic German-Austrian meal.

There’s another lovely Café Einstein right on Unter den Linden in Mitte (Unter den Linden 42, www.einstein-udl.com), though don’t make the mistake of assuming it’s affiliated with the Café Einstein Stammhaus.

(Nor do either of them have anything to do

LINGER IN Silo

SILO COFFEE: COURTESY OF SILO COFEE; COFFEE PROFILERS: COURTESY OF COFFEE PROFILERS; CAFÉ EINSTEIN, © ROSEMARIE VOEGTL/FLICKR.COM; WESTBERLIN: COURTESY OF WESTBERLIN; THE BARN: COURTESY OF THE BARN.

CAFÉS TO

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ADVERTORIAL

Enjoy Berlin’s true colors

MAIN IMAGE: © MARIDAV – STOCK.ADOBE.COM

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WHERE NOW | CAFÉ LIFE

Coffee Profilers

with the Einstein Kaffee franchises you might spot around town.) Though it’s just 20 years old, the Mitte Café Einstein feels much older, thanks to its classic atmosphere. Wooden booths, Art Deco lamps, black-and-white celebrity portraits lining the walls, and waiters clad in dapper uniforms give this place a 1930s feel. With cakes, strudel, a menu of Austrian dishes (try the schnitzel), and decadent, alcohol-spiked and whippedcream-topped coffee creations, this is a great spot to relax after some sightseeing around Brandenburg Gate.

Out west on famous Kurfürstendamm boulevard, Grosz (Kurfürstendamm 193–194, www.grosz-berlin. de), coffeehouse by day and restaurant-slash-bar by night, lives up to its elegant environs with a stunningly opulent interior that is posh to the max. There’s a Frenchinspired selection of pastries to go with your coffee, but if you’re truly feeling decadent, get the hot chocolate: scoops of rich cocoa cream that you mix to your taste into hot milk, served with Meissen porcelain.

MODERN & TRENDY On the other end of Berlin’s café spectrum

Café Einstein

are the new, hip establishments that have popped up in recent years as part of the so-called “third-wave” coffee movement.

Proponents seek to elevate the beverage to new, discriminating heights, focusing on the highest-quality beans, single-origin roasts (as opposed to blends), and brewing methods (such as pour-over and vacuum brewing) that go beyond the well-trodden espresso method.

One of the original third-wave coffee shops in Berlin is The Barn, which started out in 2010 as a snug café on Mitte’s Koppenplatz (Auguststr. 58, www.thebarn. de) and has since branched out to open a second, spacious location which also doubles as their roastery (Schönhauser Allee 8). In recent years, as Berlin’s café offerings have multiplied exponentially, The Barn has hung onto its reputation as one of the places with the most stringent coffee standards in town.

Whether it’s a filter coffee, a flat white, or a plain old espresso that’s your go-to drink, The Barn is a stop no coffee aficionado should miss.

Friedrichshain has two coffee locales to delight caffeine addicts, including Coffee Profilers (Karl-Marx-Allee 136, www.

westberlin

coffeeprofilers.com), right on grand, historic Karl-Marx-Allee. Several varieties of espresso are available, but the highlight is the brew bar, where your barista will painstakingly make your filter coffee of choice, with a smooth, flavorful brew guaranteed. After all, one of the owners was the World Brewers Cup champion in 2014. A short walk away is Aussie-run Silo Coffee (Gabriel-Max-Str. 4, www.silo-coffee.com), which serves up velvety smooth cappuccinos and flat whites in beautiful lipstick-red cups. For an extrapotent caffeine kick, try their cold-brewed coffee. An extra bonus is the delicious brunch menu, including treats like oven-baked skillet pancakes topped with bacon, making Silo one of the most popular weekend spots in the ‘hood.

To recharge and refuel after some downtown sightseeing, westberlin (Friedrichstr. 215, www.westberlin-bar-shop. de), just steps away from Checkpoint Charlie, is the place to go. Besides great coffee, the cool, modern atmosphere and selection of great reading material make this a place to linger for hours. The owner is an architect, who’s lent his keen eye for style to both the sleek décor and the well-curated selection of magazines and design books for purchase.

Insider’s tip: don’t pass up a slice of their famous cheesecake.

The Barn

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WHERE NOW | MEN'S FASHION

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JUST FOR MEN Claudia Koksch's picks throw the boys into the limelight.

1. MCM, Rosenthaler Str. 38, Kurfürstendamm 186. 2. Bench, Rosenthaler Str. 50. 3. Topman, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. 4. Minimoto Scooter Rental, Rykestr. 27, berlin@minimoto.me.

5. Barbour Heritage Store, Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 6. Sony Store, Sony Center, Potsdamer Str. 4.

7. Tiger of Sweden, Neue Schönhauser Str. 9. 8. Strellson, Münzstr. 8 und Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 9. Navyboot, Kurfürstendamm 40/41 and Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.

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Life Happens

You never know what the day may bring. For any event, for every occasion, it helps to be prepared. Life happens. Wear it well.

From the office to the gym: Dry Stretch Sweat Full-Zip Hoodie 39.90 €, Dry Stretch Sweat Pants 29.90 €, Ultra Light Down Parka 79.90 €

From the airport to the office: Comfort Jacket 59.90 €, Comfort Jersey Long Sleeve Shirt 29.90 €, Jogger Pants 39.90 €

Last - minute business trip UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE · Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C UNIQLO LEIPZIGER PLATZ · Leipziger Platz 16 UNIQLO HACKESCHER MARKT · Rosenthaler Straße 42 Shop online www.uniqlo.com/de Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein.

Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 10.09.2016, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

This image: The Sony Center. Inset below: the Apple Store.

What Men Want Forget pipes and shaving sets: These days, the gadgets guys are into need to at least have a digital screen and lots of memory.

Here are the top shops carrying the latest technology and accessories.

Recalling an art gallery more than a store, the Apple Store (www.apple.com, Kurfürstendamm 26) is conveniently located in West Berlin’s shopping hub. Rows of tables display the latest products from Apple for everyone to try out, with specialists on hand to answer questions. The staff will even help you set up your newly purchased device just the way you want it. Your tech-loving travel partner will be happy to hang here while you peruse the premium fashion houses along this luxury strip.

Sony too has a flagship store in Berlin, the Sony Style Store (www.sony.de), situated of course in the Sony Center on Potsdamer Platz.

In addition to three floors of innovative

entertainment electronics and expert advice, customers can get a sneak preview of the next generation of Sony products. The PlayStation area and the 3D-world in particular are fun places to spend some time while the less-interested family members take a twirl through the nearby Mall of Berlin.

Loyal Microsoft customers should pay a visit to The Digital Eatery (www.digitaleatery.de, Unter den Linden 17) near Brandenburg Gate. You can't buy Microsoft products here, but you can try out the latest tablets, Oculus Rift virtual reality glasses, and Xbox game stations while regenerating with a fresh seasonal salad and vegetable juice.

For men’s accessories, you can’t go past the Porsche Design Store (www.porsche-design. com, Kurfürstendamm 48), established by German-born Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, the designer of the legendary Porsche 911 sports car. This luxury brand focuses on functional, timeless, and purist designs in watches, luggage, and other accessories. Those who can't let go of tradition should pay a visit to Montblanc (www.montblanc. com, Friedrichstr. 21) Germany's manufacturer of premium handcrafted writing tools. Alongside luxury ballpoint pens, pencils, and fountain pens, they also stock elegant screenwriting pens for tablets and smartphones.

courtesy of sony center; courtesy of apple store.

Annabelle Mallia knows how to keep the boys busy so she can focus on her shopping.

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#moveinmavi

mavi-store.de facebook/mavi twitter/mavieu instagram/mavieu

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SHOPPING

THE

where GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information.

However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 64-65.

Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead.

Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: , 16 October, 6 November, 4 December, 18 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ).

Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm.

Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.

Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer).

Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm.

TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.

Department stores & malls Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com.

Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50.

T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Designer Outlet Berlin Your favourite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com.

Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040.

Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map

Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton

in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940.

U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4

www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

Galeria Kaufhof

This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de.

Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9.

T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78.

T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3

Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality.

If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24.

T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions.

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

Fashion Barbour & Barbour Heritage Store Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look.

Customers can also enjoy a shopping break with tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield sofas upstairs. www.barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a T: 030.88001773. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39.

030.23456828. U Weinmeister Straße. F2

Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr.

28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220.

T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4

ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The

ADVERTORIAL

New Scent Box with sleek laboratory vials by FRAU TONIS PARFUM

There are three good reasons why Berlin is an important capital in the world of fine scents: Frau Tonis Parfum, Berlin’s hippest perfume manufacturer, has created a scent box with three sleek laboratory vials for everyday use. The box Edgy Berlin combines unisex perfumes that evoke sensuous memories of one’s own past. Oud Weiss is a smooth amalgamation combining notes of incense, amber, and oud resin; Bogota Berlin, with its alluring scent of figs, cedar wood, and violet leaves, conjures up excursions into the (urban) jungle; and Aventure is a warming mix of vetiver and patchouli rounded off with spicy notes of rose pepper. A must have!

Frau Tonis Parfums's Edgy Berlin scent box includes three 7.5-ml vials and costs €39.

Zimmerstr. 13.

T: 030.20215310. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

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KRIGLER Parfümeur seit 1904

Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com.

Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4

BOSS The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25.

T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49.

T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3

By Anne

By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31.

T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Krigler is perfumer on Unter den Linden in Berlin since 1905.

Known as the perfumer at the Hotel Adlon.

“The history of Krigler is filled with passion, intrigue and secrets. His devotees have included John F. Kennedy, Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly...”

Vanity Fair, Hollywood issue DISCOVER THE COLLECTION AT: KRIGLER - Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77, 10117, Berlin Mo-Su: 11:00-20:00 - T: +49 30 80494144 - WWW.KRIGLER.EU

Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6.

T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Selected shops for the savvy shopper

designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700.

U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home accessories, to name just a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the

©istock

Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode. de. Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030.8832202.

U Uhlandstraße B4

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

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UNIQLO

More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique.

The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.

This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas.

Uhlandstraße 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de

High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters.

Tauentzienstr. 7B/C. T: 030 29028260 www.uniqlo.com/de

Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de 24 W H E R E B E R L I N I O C TO B E R 2016

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Find your Something Pretty

Where style comes to wander.

Bikini Berlin

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shop stop

shop stop

BODO DILG GOLDSCHMIEDE

A master in his field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of stucco and cement tiles.

A stop for soon to wed partners, nestled between the Savignyplatz and luxury-shopping strip Ku'damm.

Watch the jeweler as he creates masterpieces right in the store, or browse the showroom, designed to make customers relaxed and comfortable.

PLANET BERLIN Set yourself apart from the crowd with fashion and accessories from Planet Berlin, described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll." They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr Marten's, as well as new labels like le temps des cerises, whose male and female jeans have already achieved cult status. Get ready for your next glamorous night of clubbing.

Grolmanstr. 30/31.

T: 030 88675355 www.bodo-dilg.de

Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717 shop stop

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Ernst-Reuter-Platz KNESEBECKSTR.

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shop stop

BELLE REBELLE

The Charlottenburg boutique offers fragrance lovers a break from the everyday, with scents you won't find in your neighborhood department store. Staff are renowned for their expertise, so come prepared to ask your toughest beauty questions. The cosmetics and personal-care products for men and women are as singular as the perfume selection.

Bleibtreustraße 42. T: 030 679672050 www.bellerebelle.de

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A real treasure trove for exquisite individual fashion pieces, exciting accessories, and high-quality Italian leather bags for women.

You'll find different styles and many different designer brands in a wide price range. Enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and friendly reception.

Credit cards accepted and Tax Free possible.

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LALIC SCHMUCK

Looking to express your individual style?

Since 2003, FINNs Mode has been offering women an ample selection of fashion items with a statement, stocking a variety of Italian brands such as Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more. From dresses and skirts to bags and shoes, the items are picked for women "who like to dress well".

This splendid family-run jewelry store prides itself on having been the first jewelry gallery in Germany. Each piece on display is carefully selected by owner Maren Meyer-Ringe, who chooses only handmade and premium-quality items from 30 well-known goldsmiths and designers.

Bleibtreustr. 47. www.finns-mode.de

Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030 8819762 www.lalic-schmuckgalerie.de

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Comptoir des Cotonniers

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Annette Görtz Store Berlin

Wempe Montblanc BABOR

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Manufacturing clothing purely from organically grown natural fibers, founding twin sisters Anja and Sandra apply the highest standards of innovation and sustainability when creating their designs.

The focus is on timeless beauty and the art of Japanese cutting, combining flattering silhouettes with precise lines.

Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 24085534 www.umasan-berlin.com

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This perfume house was created in 1904 to provide unique luxury fragrances made with the finest ingredients. In 1905, Krigler’s shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s Weimar era, and early fans of Krigler perfumes included celebrities, such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly.

Hotel Adlon Unter den Linden 77.

T: 030 80494144 www.krigler.eu

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COS Deichmann Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren DESIGUAL Dogo Shoes Einblick Optik EPL Diamond Esprit Eterna FALKE FASHION CLUB Fast Forward Foot Locker Fossil French Connection Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw GANT GINA TRICOT GUESS H&M

Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL

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MANKIND

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Airfield

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Claire’s

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Clarks Ecco

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Coco California

BIJOU BRIGITTE

Codello

BIMBA Y LOLA

Cordon Berlin

HALLHUBER Hollister HUGO BOSS Hunkemöller Intersport INTIMISSIMI Jack & Jones JD Sports KARL LAGERFELD Kingz Konplott LACOSTE LAURÈL Levi’s LIEBESKIND Lief!

Liu Jo LLOYD Look 54 MANGO MARC CAIN Marc O’Polo

MASSIMO DUTTI Mavi MAX & CO. Mephisto MEXX Muji NAVYBOOT Nike Oakley Odlo Olymp One Green Elephant PANDORA Passionata PATRIZIA PEPE Peek & Cloppenburg Pepe Jeans René Lezard Reno Replay Rich & Royal

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Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO Tom Tailor TOMMY HILFIGER Trigema Triumph TWIN-SET UN1DEUX2TROIS3 Undiz Uniqlo Vans VERO MODA WE-Fashion Wigglesteps WORMLAND ZARA ZERO ...and more.

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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®

Berlin

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE

PASS VISIT WHEREPASSBERLIN.COM

big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16.

T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966.

U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4

Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany.

Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com.

Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations.

T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3

MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com.

Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte.

E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545.

U Adenauerplatz. B4

Meyer & Nehls

In A Bottle Ever since 1904, when Albert Krigler launched his line of artisanal perfumes, the Krigler brand has been synonymous with unique luxury fragrances made with the finest ingredients sourced around the world. In 1905, Krigler’s original shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s legendary music and cabaret scene, and in 1909 his scents went abroad when he opened new boutiques in the south of France, where he became the perfumer of F. Scott Fitzgerald, Hemingway, and Picasso. Over the years, his fragrances have been appreciated by celebrities such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Coco Chanel. After more than a century, Ben Krigler, Albert's fifth-generation descendant, has brought the Krigler legacy back to Berlin with a perfume boutique right on Unter den Linden, where it all began.

Adlon Hotel. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030 80494144. www.krigler.eu.

This intimate boutique is geared towards self-

A PLACE FOR SHOPPING

Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE

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COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men.

Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics.

ONEPIECE

With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Fall-Winter 2016 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.

Popular Norwegian apparel brand Onepiece has become globally recognized in large part due to their celebrity-adored jumpsuits. In the shop you will find a huge variety of leisure and lifestyle wear: Onesies, jumpsuits, pants, hoodies, shirts, dresses and much more.

Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr

Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030 27580644 www.onepiece.com

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HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE

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An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu

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Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand has a store in Berlin. Check out the classic 59FIFTY baseball cap and a number of other designs, for both men and women. Don't miss the autumn apparel collection in the Berlin flagship store.

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Lala Berlin Rosa-Luxemburg Platz Wolfen Germany Boutique Ganni Berlin MULA RASSE VOLK T S T S ER LA CKSTR Cotélac AUGU Greta NG S ASSE tore & Luis Ka STE tje INS Trippen TRA sC SSE afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka L REBECCA HIRT Be ieb Oh SOP ENS Bimba y Lola n S es r HIE TRA he kin NST SSE Weinmeisterstr.

Freitag RAS rman d 11 SE Trüffelschwein Ma Wrangler vi Oakley Porsche Design Blush Lingerie MÜ Promobo Michael Kors NZ A MCM did STRAS Strellson Gretchen Store SE as Dr IK We yk KS ekd Bu Home on earth ay designer depot UN ffalo orn IQ Hackesche Höfe LO Boots & Shoes Mykita Volution Sports KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store

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DESIGNER DEPOT UNIQLO High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters.

Mon-Sat 10am to 9pm.

Rosenthaler Str. 42 www.uniqlo.com/de

Since 2002, this fashion outlet boutique has been offering high class fashion and accessories from major international labels at up to 50% off the original price. Check out their selection, which ranges from unique pieces to dressy garments. Tax Free available.

Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net

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ADVERTORIAL

PROMOBO Pick up something totally unique at Promobo, a shop concept dedicated to fun, offbeat, eyecatching design objects. Many of the home décor items, fashion, and gifts are made in small workshops around Germany using recycled materials.

Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. T: 030 30347671 www.promobo.de shop stop

designer depot Mitte's Outlet Boutique

Find a surprise at: volkerlang.de/surprise

VOLKER LANG STORE Accessory heaven in Mulackstraße. The brand VOLKER LANG has been known for more than 30 years for its colorful leather accessories.

The Berlin branch opened on Mulackstraße in 2009 and has been showcasing the label's renowned waiter wallets and leather bags ever since.

Mon–Fri 12pm–7pm, Sat 11:30am–6:30pm.

Mulackstr. 37. T: 030 28493704 www.volkerlang.de

shop stop

Few things in life are as exciting as finding the perfect designer item that fits perfectly and costs 50% off the tag price. At Designer Depot in Mitte you'll find factory outlet sales, inventory samples, and previous collections for men and women by more than 30 fashion designers. The owner focuses on Italian pieces, both casual and classy, and brands include big names like Armani, Calvin Klein, Roberto Cavalli, and Versace, but also cool, young labels such as Gaëlle Paris, Gaudi, or Liu Jo. With so many styles and looks, there is something for everyone here.

Rochstr. 2. T: 030 28046700. Open Mon–Sat noon–8 pm. www.designer-depot.net confident, independent women who appreciate good fashion advice and prefer to steer clear of the “off-the-shelf” look. Owners Lars and Frank Nehls have filled their store with beautiful clothes for that special occasions, and also business attire and casual outfits. www.meyerundnehls.de.

Bleibtreustr. 13. T: 030 88678578. S Savignyplatz. B4

Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, beloved by celebrities. Comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1.

T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3

Patrick Hellmann Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes

by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com.

Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711.

U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4

VOLUTION SPORTS Sports, lifestyle, and fashion in perfect combination.

That's what Volution Sports Store in Berlin is all about. Volution Sports not only sells sneakers (more than 20 brands), it also provides a way of living and fashion inspiration, with sports items and lifestyle accessories. Label Arkk Copenhagen is the latest addition to the store's brand repertoire.

Oranienburger Str. 84. T: 030 40054777 www.volutionsports.com

store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780.

U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2

Twin-Set Italian designer Simona Barbieri began her career in the 1990s focusing her activity on knitwear and female clothing, but soon after expanded her collection to add bags, lingerie, beachwear, and shoes. Today, Twin-Set is known internationally for its style, which is both elegant and feminine.

Mall of Berlin. T: 030.22152081. U Mohrenstraße. E3

UNIQLO

Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717.

S Savignyplatz. B4

Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www. uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3

Rebecca Store

Wormland

Planet Berlin

With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept

This men’s boutique carries the best German and www.wheretraveler.com 31

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F A L K E · P.O.BOX 11 09 - D-57376 SCHMALLENBERG / GERMANY

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STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 /13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95

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international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße.T: 030.229088200.

U Mohrenstraße. E3

NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN MO - SA 10am - 9pm ALEXA AT ALEXANDERPLATZ OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA

Shoes & Accessories

18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G

AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics.

Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50.

T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4

bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels.

Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

www.alexacentre.com |

Boots & Shoes

become a fan of ALEXA

Make it yours.

With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens.

Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49.

T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760.

U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37.

T: 030.24088690. F2

MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500.

U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186.

T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2

New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7.

T: 030.27890578. S Hackescher Markt. F2

Volker Lang The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his www.wheretraveler.com 33 Client - McAG

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SHOPPING style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37.

T: 030.284937004. www.volker-lang-accessoires.de.

U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

JEWELRY & WATCHES Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles. An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31.

T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com.

Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980.

U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24.

T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4

ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184.

T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2

Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry

and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße.

C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920.

U Französische Straße. E3

HOME DÉCOR Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41.

T: 030 2834354.

S Hackescher Markt F2

Promobo Many of the fun offbeat, eye-catching design objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts are made by hand in small workshops around Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de.

Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5.

S Hackescher Markt. F2

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with

a lifting effect. www.babor.de.

Französische Str. 48.

T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3

Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com.

Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310.

U Kochstraße. E4

Krigler Founded in 1904, Krigler was born out of the desire to create unique luxury fragrances made with the finest ingredients from around the world. In 1905, Krigler’s original shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s legendary music scene and the fragrances were appreciated by celebrities such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. www.krigler.eu. Adlon Hotel.

Unter den Linden 77.

T: 030 80494144.

S Brandenburger Tor. E3

Mühle Traditional shaving culture for the modern gentleman. MÜHLE is a classic German brand with everything needed for the perfect wet shave, like beautiful razors with chrome or tortoiseshell handles and soap brushes with soft badger bristles. www.muehle-shaving.com. Rosenthaler Str. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe IV. T: 030 60269429.

S Hackescher Markt.E3

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE

SHOES UK

US

CLOTHES Euro

UK

WOMEN

Bag AIGNER, Kurfürstendamm 50 Dress gsus, www.g-sus.com Sneakers Replay, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12

3 4 5 6 7 8

5 6 7 8 9 10

8 9 10 11 12 13

XS S M L

6 8 10 12 14 16

8 9 10 11 12 13

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12

Euro

WOMEN 36 37 38 39 41 42

MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12

US

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Graves Of The Famous Berlin may not have a cemetery as famous as Paris’s Père Lachaise, whose numerous notable inhabitants make it the most-visited non-secular graveyard in the world, but the German capital can lay claim as the final resting place of many a household name.

Perhaps the most famous permanent resident is Marlene Dietrich (p. 10), whose burial site can be found at Städtischer Friedhof III in Friedenau (Am Bürgerpark 24). The Berlin-born actress is now neighbor to famed fashion photographer Helmut Newton, who had professed a love for Dietrich since he was a schoolboy. The infatuation greatly influenced his photography, which can be viewed at the Charlottenburg foundation named for him (p. 48).

Although well known in his German homeland, Horst Buchholz is known to cinephiles worldwide as the star of Billy Wilder’s One, Two, Three (shot in Berlin) and The Magnificent Seven, as well as the more recent Life Is Beautiful. His memorial at the Friedhof Heerstraße (Trakehnerallee 1), a tranquil space

surrounding Sausuhlensee lake, features a photo of the chiseled actor from his glory days.

The dark and woodsy enclave of Friedhof Grunewald-Forst (Havelchaussee 92B), located in Berlin’s far west, would have made an apt setting for an Andy Warhol film, which makes it fitting that his protégée Nico lies here. The singer and actress, often hailed as one of the world’s first supermodels, had deep roots in Berlin, having worked at the KaDeWe department store before getting her first big break and launching to stardom.

For a more classical bent, the Alter St.Matthäus-Kirchhof (Großgörschenstr. 26) in Schöneberg is home to the Brothers Grimm.

All four brothers – not just Wilhelm and Jakob, who published their first collection of folk tales in 1812 – lie at rest here, with monuments far less ostentatious than some of the lesser-known cemetery inhabitants.

A stroll through the lush grounds of Charlottenburg Palace (p. 37) leads to a mausoleum holding the remains of several Hohenzollers, including Emperor William I, Frederick William III of Prussia and wife Duchess Louise of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, whose love for one another is renowned.

A veritable trove of artistic greats rests at Mitte’s Dorotheenstädtischer and Friedrichswerder Friedhof (Chausseestr. 126). Pay homage to philosopher Georg Hegel, poet/ playwright Bertolt Brecht, and architect Karl Schinkel, the genius behind some of Berlin’s most famous buildings, including the Altes Museum on Museum Island.

© istock photo.

Jenna Rose Robbins paid her respects to some of the luminaries of film, politics, and the arts at cemeteries around Berlin.

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Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a.

T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue.

Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard

Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3

Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions.

Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24.

T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage.

Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23.

T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3

Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler

pass visit wherepassBERLIN.com

City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session.

The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours.

Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only.

Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1.

T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3

Siegessäule (Victory Column) The triumphal column on the Straße der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish war, while the angel on top was added after two further war victories against Austria and France. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961.

U Hansaplatz. C3/D3

Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms

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Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating.

Rosenthaler Str. 40-41.

S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.

Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Madame Tussauds Madame Tussauds Berlin brings together the figures of all six James Bonds. The wax figures of all six James Bonds will be revealed at the beginning of October. Sean Connery, George Lazenby, Roger Moore, Timothy Dalton, Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig will appear at the waxworks attraction Madame Tussauds Berlin for three months only, before embarking on the next tour. Each of these new figures will be featured in a classic 007 dinner suit and guests are invited to take a stand out profile picture with our Bonds.

Take the unique chance and meet your favorite 007.

Ask your reception team for tickets, including priority entry, or save time by booking online at MadameTussauds.com/Berlin.

Madame Tussauds Berlin, Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor

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SIGHTSEEING

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floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en. stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map

Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www. topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8.

T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4

Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears)

The Berlin Dungeon Visit the Berlin Dungeon, the “Home of Halloween“. Experience an eerily funny show about Berlin’s darkest past in 70 minutes of extraordinary entertainment including two thrilling rides and over 800 years of Berlin’s darkest history. Discover the ancient Grey Friary, wander through the maze of the Hohenzollerns, and find out if you’re brave enough for the darkest fall into the unknown by the EXitus, Berlin’s only indoor drop tower. And in October only, you can experience a new, unique, spine-chilling show about another shocking crime that happened in our city. Stay tuned, and visit the Berlin Dungeon for your ultimate Halloween adventure.

Ask your reception team for tickets, including priority entry, or book online at TheDungeons.com/Berlin.

Berlin Dungeon. Spandauer Straße 2. S+U Alexanderplatz or Hackescher Markt.

Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111.

U Bernauer Straße. E2

Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4

East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße.

S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4

Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution.

Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www. holocaust-mahnmal.de. CoraBerliner Straße. T: 030.2639430.

U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Kids & Families Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult.

Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com.

Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main

attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that Berlin is not only the largest provide ample indoor space, city in Germany: It is also the Karl-Marx-Allee making the venue suitable for greenest, with almost 32 Berlin’s best example of GDRrainy days. The zoo boasts the percent of the city surface era Neorealist architecture is a largest number of species and covered in forest 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built total animal residents in the world. and water. between 1950 and 1960 to provide The aquarium, one of the largest in housing for thousands of residents and Europe, features large tanks with to act as a backdrop for military parades. piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily The street quickly became a source of national 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower under-4s free. Combined Zoo-Aquarium ticket: blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin. nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. boulevard is an important architectural showcase.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4 U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3

Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than

20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper

Botanischer Garten

This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants.

Daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset.

Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org.

Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8. T: 030.83850100.

S Botanischer Garten. Off Map

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with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205.

T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4

Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm).

Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17.

T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

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SIGHTSEEING Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70.

T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4

Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online.

Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com.

Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3

Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com.

Spandauer Str. 3. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3

pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam.

T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

River Trips Exclusiv Yachtcharter This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www. exclusiv-yachtcharter.de.

T: 030.43666836.

Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt

house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop.

From €300. www.berlinagenten.com.

Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.

Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours)

Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de.

The city reached its highest Brunnenstr. 105. population in 1942.

T: 030.49910517.

At that time, 4,478,102 people lived in Berlin.

Today, there are 3.5 million.

Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung. sternundkreis.de.

T: 030.5363600.

Tours & GUIDED Walks Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs.

Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private

CooLTourings Segway Tours

Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway human transporter, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.segberlin-ways.de. T: 030.26321381.

Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.

Potsdam Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de.

Georg-Halemann-Allee 99. T: 0331.550740.

Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map

Filmpark Babelsberg

Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other

Up For A Challenge With its golden foliage, autumn is a great time to visit Berlin’s forests. And if going for a stroll sounds too tame, why not take the challenge of a canopy climb?

Waldhochseilgarten Jungfernheide offers tree-climbing adventures, starting with a 30-minute orientation. The climb starts about 6 meters/19 feet high and ends with a 17-meter-/56-foot-high "black run," with lots of balancing beams, ropes, and ziplines. By day's end, you're sure to be on a pure adrenaline high. Kids too can test their skills at about 3 meters/10 feet up, while anyone averse to heights can simply relax at the on-site beer garden.

Heckerdamm 260. T: 030 34094818. www.waldhochseilgarten-jungfernheide.de

©istock photo.

In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14, under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de.

Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg.

T: 0331.7212750.

S Griebnitzsee. Off Map

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Maximum Ticket. Maximum Berlin.

All public transport for 48 or 72 hours, incl. SXF Airport, Potsdam Sanssouci, Memorial Sachsenhausen Exclusive 156-page guidebook filled with tips, a city map, and public transport map Save up to 50 % on many of Berlin‘s top attractions Also available as PREMIUM Ticket including hop on – hop off tour Available at

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Upper row: photos by Gordon Parks. This row: Salvatore Valente's Bull Jumping. Carol Lyon's The Anointed; Valerie Leonard, Lightly Suspended.

Inset below: Pakistan by Steve Mc Curry.

Camera Exposure Since the opening of the Museum of Photography in 2004, whose initial permanent collection was immediately endowed with Helmut Newton's entire oeuvre, Berlin has become a photography hub of European importance. Today, photography galleries such as C/O Berlin, Camera Work, and Carpentier Galerie dot the museum's surroundings, hosting exhibitions all year long and turning Charlottenburg into the city's epicenter for photographic art, while other important spaces such as Lumas, Galerie fĂźr Moderne Fotografie, and Photo Edition Berlin display and sell portraits and compositions in the gallery district of Mitte.

This month, the Berlin Foto Biennale (www. berlinfotobiennale.com) celebrates the city's status of photography capital from 6 to 30 October, with works by 446 artists from 41 countries adorning the walls of Palazzo Italia on Unter den Linden. Focusing on pressing topics such as the refugee crisis, the Biennale will be presented by special guest Steve

McCurry, best known for his 1984 "Afghan girl," National Geographic cover image. The photo is on display at the Biennale along with another 130 of his photojournalistic shots. Another highlight are Yusuke Suzuki's

two series Aleppo, Syria, City of Chaos and Refugee Crisis, Lesbos, Greece, shedding light on war and migration in the Mediterranean.

Back in Charlottenburg, C/O Berlin will be presenting I am you. Selected Works by Gordon Parks. The US photographer profiled America's deeply divided society between 1942 and 1978, dealing with everything from poverty and segregation in the AfricanAmerican community to the rich and glitzy world of fashion and cinema. The 150 images on show portray important historic moments and civil rights activists such as Malcolm X and Martin Luther King Jr., but also music and film stars like Duke Ellington, Ingrid Bergman, and more. C/O Berlin also has a great bookshop selling photography books and cards. But if you want to bring home a photo souvenir of your Berlin trip, visit Lumas Berlin (Fasanenstr. 73, www.lumas.de) and pick from exclusive photo art and limited editions in various formats.

FIRST ROW: PHOTOGRAPHS BY GORDEN PARKS, COURTESY AND Š: THE GORDON PARKS FOUNDATION. PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BERLIN FOTO BIENNALE.

Solveig Steinhardt admires the world through the lens of the world's best photographers.

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Deutsche Bank KunstHalle Unter den Linden 13/15 10117 Berlin

Polnisches Institut Berlin Burgstraße 27 10178 Berlin

Organized with the financial support from the city of Warsaw

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The Network

Museums

People, Cables, Data Streams

Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To Jun 2017: Dangerous Perfection: Antique grave-vases from Apulia. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Alte Nationalgalerie

A new exhibition about the networked world

A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 20 Nov: An Urban Landscape – A 360º Panorama of Rome by Friedrich Loos. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr.

1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

For explorers!

Bauhaus Archiv

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A world of exhibitions

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The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. From 5 Oct: Lucia Moholy – The English Years. Presenting Moholy’s landscape and architectural photography work. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www. bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14.

T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

/

Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | Entrance Ladestrasse | Möckernstr. 26 | www.sdtb.de

Bode Museum

An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 15 Oct: Thrace 3.0. Coinage in the 04.02.16 13:00 Land of Orpheus. The coins of the ancient region of Thrace, Greece, and European Turkey. From 21 Oct: Canova and the Dance. Sculptures centering on the motif of dance. To 31 Dec: ONE GOD – Abraham’s Legacy on the Nile. Jews, Christians, and Muslims in Egypt from Antiquity until the Middle Ages. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben.

T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

Bröhan-Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. Open Tue–Sun 10am– 6pm www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a.

T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Brücke Museum

©istock

Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color.

Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 23 Oct: Emil Nolde. The Painter is a retrospective of the painter’s illuminating works. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.brueckemuseum.de. Bussardsteig 9.

T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map

®

Berlin

DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany

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Deutsches Historisches Museum

rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 3 Oct: Technology for Hitler’s Olympics. The 1936 Olympics were the first to receive live media broadcasting Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9.

T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4

MUST SEE Learn about the

l museum Internatiotna exhibition

The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum)

milestones in German history from Berlin has more the Roman occupation of the One of the world’s largest and most museums (180) than Germanic areas to the present day. significant institutions for archiving, rainy days (106).

From 14 Oct: German colonialism, researching, and communicating Fragments of Its Past and Present. To 16 the history and culture of LGBTQ Oct: Multicultural. Germany, a Country of communities. Changing exhibitions take Immigration follows the historical migration diverse approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, movements into Germany, from the quest workers bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts of the 1960s up to the refugees of today. To 31 in history, art, and culture. To 31 Oct: Ken. To be Dec: Focus Königgrätz. An exploration of the destroyed tells the story of Ken and Hazel Houston’s decisive battle between Prussia and Austria Daily relationship through letters and photographs. .

10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de.

To 17 Oct: Stage Design: Peter Kothe. An East-West Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040.

German Life. A focus on the stage designer’s S+U Friedrichstraße. E3 work that spanned both Berlins. To 20 Nov: Am I Dandy? Instructions on how to lead an extravagant life Deutsches Technikmuseum explores the wide varieties of what and who is a dandy Sun–Mon, MUST SEE At the museum for all things Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. technology, the old locomotives and aviation

permanen

(worth

2,80€)

open daily:

mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial

at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731.

S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers.

Valid until November, 30th 2016.

With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.daliberlin.de

Erlebe die große Runde Freiheit

Emotion, fun and adrenaline from 49,90 EURO! 5 EURO discount with this coupon* More information:

Medical Mysteries For anyone with an interest in what makes our bodies tick, the Museum of Medical History is a must-see. Part of Berlin’s renowned Charité Hospital, the museum uses objects, pictures, and creepy medical devices to trace 300 years of medical history. But the museum’s most sensational draw is its collection of 750 anatomical preparations collected by 19th-century Dr. Rudolf Virchow, known as “the father of modern pathology.” Rows of shelves hold jars of diseased organs, cancerous tumours and shocking malformations, all of which are hair-raising, sobering, and fascinating in equal measure. Due to the intense subject matter, under-16s must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. Charitéplatz 1. T: 030.450536156. www.bmm-charite.de

*Valid until November 30th 2016. Only in combination with a booking.

Cannot be combined with other offers. No refunds or cash payment.

courtesy of the museum of medical history.

+ 49 (0)30 206 2019 - 41 info@oktb.de

Start and end at Potsdamer Platz

www.oldie-kaefer-tour-berlin.de

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860.

U Kochstraße. E4

Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 16 Oct: Studio Cézanne. An electro-acoustic sound installation in four parts is an experimental and musical homage to Cézanne. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242.

U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Museum of Asian Art

Museum of Photography

The Bridge Of Expression At the turn of the 20th century, when Berlin was on the cusp of becoming a modern and booming metropolis, many painters were inspired to immortalize this transitory moment on canvas. One of them was Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, a spearheader of Die Brücke and Expressionism. With his coarse brushstrokes, he captured the capital’s dynamism in hieroglyphic-like expressions, leaving room for the viewer to bridge the gap between reality, the past, and change. Hieroglyphics at Hamburger Bahnhof (p. 48) presents 18 of his works complemented by contemporary artists Rosa Barba and Rudolf Stingel’s film and large-scale painting pieces, with the interaction of past and present artistry fostering new discussion on change. Until 26 Feb. www.schwulesmuseum.de. Lützowstr. 73.

T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 29 Jan: GOLEM presents the figure found in Jewish mysticism in its iterations in art and literature, questioning what it means to be human.

Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www. jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300.

U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. To 21 Oct: The Cologne Käthe Kollwitz Museum as Guest in Berlin – Sketches and Prints from 1910/1911.

Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24.

T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4

Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the

Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am– 6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Märkisches Museum Documents, photos, books, and weapons walk visitors through 750 years of Berlin history in a neoGothic setting. To 3 Oct: Wolfgang Leber – 50 Years of Paintings follows the ever-changing metropolis through the eyes of the artist. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3 (under-18s free; free entry first Wed of month). www.stadtmuseum.de. Am Köllnischen Park 5.

T: 030.24002162. U Märkisches Museum. F3

Martin-Gropius-Bau MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and

photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. From 8 Oct: The British View: Germany – Memories of a Nation. From 21 Oct: Building with Timber – Paths into the Future. A presentation on modern architecture made of this renewable resource. To 8 Jan: +ultra. knowledge & gestaltung explores the merging boundaries of reality and simulation. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de.

Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 20 Nov: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Portraits and street photography from Alice Springs, the widow of Helmut Newton; Helmut Newton’s paparazzi and police photography; and Dutch artist Mart Engelen’s film noir-inspired blackand-white portraits. To 8 Jan: Bernard Larsson.

Leaving is Entering. Works from the German-born photographer function as a visual record of the most pivotal moments in Berlin history. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2.

T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4

Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. To 16 Oct: Art/Nature.

Intervention Round II. Contemporary art at the museum. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de.

Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591.

U Naturkundemuseum. E2

Museum The Kennedys When he delivered his famous “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech, John F. Kennedy automatically became Berlin’s favorite US president. Tue–Sun 11am–7pm. €5/2.50. www.thekennedys.de. Auguststr. 11–13.

T: 030.20653570. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Museum Story of Berlin Almost 800 years of Berlin history arranged into 23 rooms, each describing a different theme or era and an atomic bunker for visitors to better understand the WWII air raid experience. An entertaining way to learn about the development of the city. Open daily 10am–8pm. €12/5. www.story-of-berlin.de. Kurfürstendamm 208.

T: 030.88720100. U Uhlandstraße. B4

Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, Badende am Strand (Fehmarn), 1913 Öl auf Leinwand, 76 x 100 cm© bpk / Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Nationalgalerie / Jörg P. AndersErnst

The important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Road. To 8 Jan: Torii Rei: Ise. A fifteen-painting presentation of the city of Ise and the Ise Shinto shrine complex. Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum.

Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242.

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Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen

Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. To 30 Oct: Death in Naples – 125th Anniversary of the Death of Heinrich Schliemann pays homage to the archaeologist and excavator. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.neues-museum. de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 30 Oct: Contrast Syria. Photographs by Mohamad al-Roumi is a photographic presentation of the artist’s multiethnic and multi-religious homeland. www.smb. museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242.

S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3

his camera to capture injustice and the fight for equal rights. To 4 Dec: Adam Broomberg & Oliver Chanarin. Don’t Start With the Good Old Things But the Bad New Ones. A Brechtian approach to documentary photography.

Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin. org.Hardenbergstr. 22–24.

T: 030.28444160.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Dalí – The Exhibition

Deutsche Bank KunstHalle

With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 30 Oct: COMMON AFFAIRS – Revisiting the VIEWS Award – Contemporary Art from Poland. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutscheYou love Picasso? The bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Berggruen Museum has Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. an impressive collection S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

The permanent exhibit features of paintings by the more than 400 works, most from Spanish master. . private collections, by the Surrealist Gemäldegalerie – painter, with a focus on drawing, Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €12.50 Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including www.daliberlin.de.

Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546.

Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, U Potsdamer Platz. D3 and Canaletto. To 30 Oct: El Siglo de Oro. The Age of

Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr.

103. T: 030.5536854.

U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map

Art galleries Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10.

T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3

Berlinische Galerie Hannah-Hoech Aus einem etnhographischen Museum ohne Titel III

Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, Badende am Strand (Fehmarn), 1913 Öl auf Leinwand, 76 x 100 cm© bpk / Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Nationalgalerie / Jörg P. AndersErnst

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 31 Oct: 12×12. Each year, the IBB Video Space features 12 innovative film and video artists in Berlin. To 7 Nov: Dada Africa celebrates the Dada centenary with works paired with artefacts originating from Africa, Asia, and Oceana. To 31 Oct: Modern Visionaries features the utopian paintings and drawings of members of the Glass Chain artistic movement.

Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128.

T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4

C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 4 Dec: Gordon Parks. I am you. Selected Works.

1934-1978. With his weapon of choice, Parks used

Dada Beyond Europe Exactly 100 years ago, the Dada movement was born in Switzerland as a protest against the outbreak of WWI, which Dadaists considered a bourgeois war, and came to Berlin soon after.

This year marks the centenary of this innovative and defining 20th-century movement, and the Berlinische Galerie (this page), in conjunction with the Museum Rietberg in Zurich, is celebrating this milestone by presenting Dada Africa, a new exhibition that invites dialogue between European Dadaist works and non-European artistic creations pitted together in juxtaposition. The exhibition incorporates artefacts from Africa, Asia, and Oceania and engages viewers to question the different understandings between traditional art and cultures in the vein of Dadaist criticism and non-European traditions. Until 7 Nov. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Velázquez follows the artistic depictions of major political and social developments in 17th century Spain. To 6 Nov: José de Ribera – Etchings. He was young and needed the money. Focuses on the few but remarkable works by the virtuosic Spanish printmaker. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum.

Matthäikirchplatz 50.

T: 030.266424242.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

ADVERTORIAL

Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 18 Sep: Auguste Rodin and Madame Hanako. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de.

Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144.

S Heerstraße. Off Map The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 23 Oct: Gülsün Karamustafa.

Chronographia presents Karamustafa’s highly influential works, in which she addresses issues of migration, politically-enforced nomadism, feminism, gender, and Western regard of the Near East. To 6 Nov: Capital: Debt – Territory – Utopia uses art, film, and objects to explore what exactly is value and capital comprised of. To 26 Feb: Ernst Ludwig Kirchner. Hieroglyphics. Hieroglyphic paintings as a sign of expressionism. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www. hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51.

T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2

Berlin Foto Biennale The largest collective photography exhibition ever held in Europe, the Berlin Foto Biennale brings together 1230 images shot by 446 artists across 41 countries under the one roof at Palazzo Italia. This year's theme is "Emotions & Commotions Across Cultures," and highlights not to be missed include Steve McCurry’s retrospective exhibition of 130 selected works, portfolios by emerging talent Yusuke Suzuki on Lesbos’ refugee crisis and chaos in Syria’s Aleppo, and Andrea Star Reese’s visual documentary on abuses on mental patients in Indonesia and the lives of New York’s homeless. Open every day between 6 and 30 October. Ticket cost: €10.

Unter den Linden 10. T: 030 30807418. www.berlinfotobiennale.com

Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 6 Nov: Sven Drühl . Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de.

Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935.

U Krumme Lanke. Off Map

Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre.

To 20 Nov: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/ Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com.

Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist

A Fialka rotor, a machine used to cipher information, exposed at the Spy Museum (www.spymuseum.berlin.com).

Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon

10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de.

Colomierstr. 3.T: 030.80585900.

S Wannsee. Off Map

me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts.

The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.”

To 2 Apr: My Abstract World , bold and intense abstract art. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www. me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr.

70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3

Commercial Galleries Michael Reid Berlin, 5 to 29 Oct: Jason Benjamin,

Pippin Drysdale. Ackerstr. 163. www.michaelreid. com.au; Galerie P.W. Richard, 7 Oct to 12 Nov: Robert Indiana, Nicholas Krushenick. Wielandstr.

13. www.galerie-p-w-richard.de; Zilberman Gallery, 11 Nov to 3 Dec: The Red Gaze, collectiveexhibition.Goethestr.82.www.zilbermangallery. com; Köppe Contemporary, 13 Oct to 12 Nov: Bodo Rott: Hortus Convulsus. Knausstr. 19. www.villakoeppe.de; Schmalfuss Berlin, 14 Oct to 19 Nov: Thomas Jessen. Paintings. Knesebeckstr. 96 (3rd floor). www.galerie-schmalfuss.de.

PHOTO BY Steve McCurry

Hamburger Bahnhof

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THE GUIDE | dining

The style-conscious interior at Bar Raval

Tapas Happy

bar raval, courtesy of bar raval; all other photos, © istock.

For a taste of Spain right here in the German capital, follow Hilda Hoy’s picks for the city’s top tapas.

I have yet to meet a Mediterranean cuisine I did not like, but it has to be said – there’s something especially commendable about the way the Spaniards do food. Not only have they got an enviable mastery of cheese, wine, and charcuterie, but in my opinion, tapasstyle eating – ordering a variety of small plates to share amongst a table – is one of the nicest ways to eat out. Thankfully, there are plenty of places in Berlin to sate all Spanish cravings.

One of the better-known tapas spots is Kreuzberg’s Bar Raval (Lübbener Str. 1, www. barraval.de), thanks in part to its celebrity owner, Spanish-German actor Daniel Brühl (Good Bye Lenin!, Inglourious Basterds, The Bourne Ultimatum). Star owner aside, however, the place stands out on its own merits, both in terms of the menu and the ambience. As one would expect with an A-list celebrity founder, the look at Bar Raval is cool and styleconscious. All the must-have classics are on the menu, like patatas bravas, tortilla, and garlicky gambas, though there are some

modern, fusion touches as well. Make sure to try the lusciously tender tataki of Iberico pork and the eggplant tempura drizzled with honey, a specialty from Córdoba. On the first Monday of every month, they cook up a special paella feast.

Every tapas fan should also put Volver (Luisenstr. 41, www.volver-tapas.berlin) on their dining agenda. This beloved, cozy spot in the

heart of Mitte is the place to go for classic Andalusian tapas made according to old family recipes, and the dedication to top-quality ingredients is evident in every bite. My must-haves are the grilled calamari, meatballs in white wine sauce, and fried mini peppers, with a glass (okay, two) of Tempranillo red wine. Make sure to save room for a crema catalana – Spain’s answer to the crème brûlée – for dessert.

Oftentimes in Spain, tapas are served as little nibbles accompanying a round of drinks at the bar. Gastón (Weichselstr. 18, www.gastontapasbar.com) is a tapas hotspot right in the center of Neukölln’s busiest bar district whose Spanish owners have imported a taste of the dining-meets-nightlife culture from their home country. Given the festive location and atmosphere, this isn’t the place to go for a quiet, sedate dinner, but rather to enjoy a lively night out with flowing food and drink. Do as the Spanish do and embrace the vivacious atmosphere. Olé! www.wheretraveler.com 49

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DINING

DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book.

Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.

Fine Dining For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.

5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1.

T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3

Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3.

T: 030.590051234.

S Potsdamer Platz. D3

First Floor Named Best German Restaurant of 2012, recipient of a Michelin star, and with head chef Matthias Diether named Berlin Master Chef 2013, First Floor has clearly earned its gourmet stripes. Part of the Hotel Palace Berlin, the fine dining spot serves inspired French haute cuisine. €€€€. Daily D, closed Mon. www.firstfloor.palace.de. Budapester Str. 45.

T: 030.25021020. S+U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4

Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€.

Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com.

Charlottenstr. 49.

T: 030.20336363.

U Französische Straße. E3

Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a.

T: 030.61289992.

U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de.

Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196.

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Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13.

T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2

Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€.

Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8.

T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4

Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€.

Tue–Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930.

U Kochstraße. E4

Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf AndaLucia Spanish. This Savignyplatz establishment is the place to go for authentic Spanish tapas and food, including paella, tortilla, zarzuela, as well as tasty meat and fish grilled on hot lava stone. Wellstocked wine cellar and very helpful staff. €€. Daily D only. www.andalucia.berlin. Savignyplatz 2.

T: 030.54710271. S Savignyplatz. B4

Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s signature restaurant is all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality best meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant. com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000.

U Augsburger Straße. C4

Glass Mediterranean. A 2013 addition to the west-end gourmet scene, Glass is the baby of Israeli chef Gal Ben Moshe. Guests in the sleek, modern space get wowed with an innovative tasting menu that changes daily and the show-stopping “Candy Box” dessert, which includes a chocolate mousse frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen. €€€. Daily D, closed Sun–Mon. www.glassberlin.de. Uhlandstr. 195.

T: 030.54710861. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

That’s the way … … we like it. Fresh draught beer, pretzels and pork knuckle.

Maximilians – the German way.

Friedrichstr. 185, direct – Stadtmitte. www.maximiliansberlin.de

Paris Bar French. Many celebrities – including

Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152.

T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4

Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian

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DINING menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr.

49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4

FRiedrichshain Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3

Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transitrestaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415.

S Ostkreuz. Off Map

Kreuzberg Barcelona Spanish. Savor the best Spain has to offer, from original paella, fish and meat dishes grilled on lava stone, as well as a large selection of imported wines and home made tapas. Lunch served daily from 11:30am to 3:30pm. €€. Daily L&D. www.barcelona.berlin. Friedrichstr. 211.

T: 030.70228336. U Kochstraße. E3/4

Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be

the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city.

The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr.

10. T: 030.6142373.

U Kottbusser Tor. F4

Spindler & Klatt

Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian

dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55.

T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3

Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, The Grand and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes German. The sophisticated supper club, full use of its prime river location. In with origins reaching back to 1842, the summer, the waterside terrace boasts an American grill that makes is a memorable spot to enjoy the its international array of steaks among Barcelona, Andalucia, menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from the best in town. The upstairs lounge and Tres Tapas serve fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts great Spanish tapas dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. a decadent late-night scene. €€€. and wine.

Even in colder months, the chic, postMon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grandindustrial interior – built in the 1800s as berlin.com. Hirtenstraße 4. an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On T: 030.278909555.

Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2 club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.

Hummus & Friends com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Israeli. Creamy, rich, and fluffy hummus with warm Schlesisches Tor. G4 pita bread might just be Israel’s national dish, and with the opening of Hummus & Friends, it’s easy to get in the German capital too. Also on the menu are Borchardt fresh, colorful salads and side dishes like roasted German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The bar even of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular serves kosher Israeli wine. €. Daily L&D. www. for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as hummus-and-friends.com. Oranienburger Str. 27. the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. T: 030.55471454. S Oranienburger Straße. F2 www.borchardt-restaurant.de.

Katjes Café Grün-Ohr Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262.

Café. It’s heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop U Französische Straße. E3

Mitte

köpenicker str. 16-17 / kreuzberg www.spindlerklatt.berlin

restaurant open thursday to saturday from 7 pm

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and café by Katjes not only stocks the brand’s full line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy, but also a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and fresh-squeezed juices that can be enjoyed on site or to go. €. Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030.97894702. www. katjes.de. F2

DUKE "MEATS" OTTO GOURMET

Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag

MONDAY, 10.10.2016 | RECEPTION 06.30 PM | BEGIN 07.00 PM

German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing.

OTTO GOUMET is an online shop specializing in high-quality meat from animal welfare-friendly farms. Share our passion for good meat over a five-course meal including corresponding wines from the Horst Sauer vineyard. Wine connoisseur Gunnar Tietz will be your host for the evening.

Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€.

Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de.

Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990.

U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.

Five-course meal: EUR 139.00 per person including aperitif, corresponding wines, water and coffee

FOODWINEJAZZ

Maximilians

SATURDAY, 22.10.2016 | RECEPTION 07.00 PM | BEGIN 07.30 PM

German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr.

185–190. T: 030.20450559.

U Stadtmitte. E3

Enjoy an exclusive dinner and concert combination with the Desney Bailey Trio, presented by JazzRadio and DUKE chef Florian Glauert. After an aperitif reception with finger food, you will be served a four-course meal including corresponding wines.

Dinner & Concert: EUR 129.00 per person including aperitif, fingerfood, corresponding wines, water and coffee

RESTAURANT DUKE @ ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN +49 (0)30 68 315-4000 | CONTACT@DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM | NÜRNBERGER STRASSE 50-55 | 10789 BERLIN | GERMANY

WWW.DUKE-RESTAURANT.COM / HIGHLIGHTS & SPECIALS

Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s

traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies.

Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35.

T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2

Berlin’s most delicious restaurants

Prenzlauer Berg I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12.

T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2

Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Kollwitzstr. 54.

T: 030.66408710. U Senefelderplatz. F2

restaurant, which also serves a variety of dishes such as paella, zarzuela and tortilla, as well as meat and fish g rilled on hot lava stone. The wine is imported directly from Spain. Ask the waiter for the perfect wine to go with your meal. €€. Daily D only. www.tres-tapas.berlin.

Lychener Str. 30.

T: 030.41715718. U Eberswalder Str. F1

©istock

Tres Tapas Spanish. Tapas are the specialty at this Spanish

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Taking to the Stage Every night of the week, Berlin offers a smorgasbord of events. Two new shows that premiered in late September have just made the offering even better.

If you’re looking for a piece of Las Vegas right here in the German capital, go no further than the world’s biggest stage at the Friedrichstadt-Palast (Friedrichstr. 107, www.palast.berlin). In 97 years of storied history, the venue has become famous for its huge, revue-style theatrical productions. The Palast's latest show, THE ONE Grand Show, was created with the help of haute couture legend Jean-Paul Gaultier, who provided the costumes, while Emmy Award-winner Peter Morse designed the spectacular lighting effects. With the aim of representing this buzzing metropolis's cultural diversity and colorful lifestyles, THE ONE provides a collage of spectacular sketches recounting a young man’s journey through the splendor of past times, in search of someone to love ("the one.") In pure Friedrichstadt-Palast style, all performances are

supplemented with high-tech special effects, courtesy of the 100+ artists that the show brought on board.

For something a bit more intimate, the historic ballroom of the Chamäleon Theater (Rosenthaler Str. 40/41, www. chamaeleonberlin.com) recently debuted the

award-winning Cirkus Cirkör and their show UNDERART – Ode to a Crash Landing. This Swedish circus troupe was founded by Tilde Björfors, one of the few professors of contemporary circus. Their latest piece tells a story about getting up again after being knocked down, and about the strength required to overcome life’s adversities. The idea came from director Olle Strandberg’s personal experience: After an accident while attempting a triple somersault left him paralyzed from the neck down, he ultimately made a full recovery thanks to his admirable determination. With an ensemble of five artists and two musicians, the show is full of absurd acrobatic feats, dry Scandinavian humor, and live music compositions.

Come early to explore the rest of the sprawling courtyard complex of Hackesche Höfe, designed in Art Nouveau style and brimming with interesting little shops. Both venues also have pre-show dining options, and performances will continue well into 2017.

underart: courtesy of chamaeleon berlin; The one: courtesy of friedrichstadt-palast.

Annabelle Mallia has always dreamed of starring on stage, but sitting in the audience is the next best thing.

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Ballet & Opera Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1, 8, 11, 14 Oct: Cosí fan tutte (Mozart).

2 Oct: Carmen (Bizet). 3, 6 Oct: L'elisir d'amore (Donizetti). 15 Oct: La Traviata (Verdi). 16, 20, 22, 30 Oct: Parsifal (Wagner). 21, 23, 29 Oct: Rigoletto (Verdi). 27 Oct: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). www. deutscheoperberlin.de. Bismarckstr. 35.

T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013.

Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 1 Oct: A woman who knows what she wants! (Oscar Straus). 2, 8, 22 Oct: The Master Singers of Nuremberg (Wagner). 13, 16, 19, 28 Oct: Il barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). 15, 21, 30 Oct: Rusalka (Dvorák). 23, 29 Oct: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). www.komische-oper-berlin.de.

Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3

Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 3 Sep: Season opening performance at Deutsche Oper. 7, 9, 19, 28 Oct: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky). Choreography by Nacho Duato, at Deutsche Oper. 21, 22 Oct: Giselle (Adam, choreography by Patrice Bart). www.

The Cure: courtesy of promotion; COSI FAN TUTTE © Alexander Wenzel, courtesy of Deutsche Oper

underart: courtesy of chamaeleon berlin; The one: courtesy of friedrichstadt-palast.

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140.

U Deutsche Oper. B3

Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres.

1 Oct: Don Giovanni (Mozart). 2 Oct: Tosca (Puccini). 3, 7, 9, 14, 16, 25, 28 Oct: Fidelio (Beethoven). 8, 13, 15, 19 Oct: Orfeo ed Euridice (Gluck). 23, 26, 29 Oct: Elektra (Strauss). 27 Oct: Madama Butterfly (Puccini). www.staatsoper-berlin. de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3

Classical Concerts Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www. berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136.

S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3

Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies.

Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55.

T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3

on this month theater, MusicaLS & Dance Blue Man group Bluemax Theater, all month

UNDERART Chamäleon Theater, all month

The one: Grand show Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month

Pop, Rock & Jazz The cure Mercedes-Benz Arena, 18 Oct

paul simon Tempodrom, 20 Oct A scene from Mozart's Cosí Fan Tutte at Deutsche Oper.

Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime

Balkanbeats Lido, 18 Oct

zucchero Mercedes-Benz Arena, 28 Oct

Goran Bregovic Konzerthaus, 30 Oct

BONNIE TYLER Tempodrom, 31 Oct

The Gods Of Gothic Rock Break out the eyeliner for the return of The Cure, the Brit band best known for the charttopping 1989 album Disintegration, which propelled them out of the college radio stratosphere and secured their name in the annals of music. Frontman Robert Smith and company return for their first European tour since 2008, playing a combination of fan favorites, deep cuts, and new recordings that span a 37-year career. Modern acts as diverse as My Chemical Romance and The Shins have cited The Cure as a major influence, a testament to the black-clad rockers' musical legacy. And while the band is often mocked as being overly morose (mostly by those unfamiliar with their work), hits such as Just Like Heaven and Friday I'm In Love can still spur a crowd to get out of their seats and dance – or at least crack a smile.

18 October. Mercedes-Benz Arena. www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de.

Ballet & Classical Cosí fan tutte (Mozart) Deutsche Oper, 1, 8, 11, 14 Oct

JU Percussion group Konzerthaus, 3 Oct

Daniil trifononov (piano) Chamber Music Hall, 5 Oct

The Nutcracker Staatsballett, 7, 9, 19, 28 Oct

Die zauberflöte Komische Oper, 23 & 29 Oct

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ENTERTAINMENT S U I TA B L E F O R I N T E R N AT I O N A L V I S I T O R S

Documenting Observation

80‘S HITS & ACROBATICS

The eighties were a glitzy time.

The new Wintergarten Show combines outstanding acrobatics with the soundtrack of a whole generation – backed by a passionate live band and grandiose singers.

Relax – please do it!

Till 19 February 2017 Tickets from € 32,00* #wigaberlin

The documentary and essay film genre is firmly rooted in observation, imagination, and experimentalism, and the documentary film festival DOKU.ARTS, now in its tenth edition, brings to town 22 international films that highlight the cultural relevance of this niche genre. From 6–23 October, the festival's ESSAYDOX program presents various themes in essayistic form, including politics, poetry, travel, and human emotions. Look out for screenings such as Kandahar Journals and Koudelka–Shooting Holy Land, both about photographers working in troubled parts of the world; Sans Soleil, which juxtaposes the theme of seeing and the inability to see in an introspective story; and A Subsequent Fulfilment of a Pre-Historic Wish, which explores the continuous change of perspective that traveling entails.

Zeughauskino at the Deutsches Historisches Museum. www.doku-arts.de concerts Tuesdays. 2 Oct: Christian Gerhaher (baritone) and Gerold Huber (piano) perform works by Dvorák and Schumann. 5 Oct: Pianist Daniil Trifonov plays Schumann, Shostakovich, and Stravinsky. 28 Oct: Carte Blanche, the Orchestra Academy of the Berliner Philharmoniker. 29 Oct: Bolero Berlin. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Konzerthaus

Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm.

1 Oct: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Honeck) perform Dvorák, Strauss, and Schubert. 6–8 Oct: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Haitink) perform Schubert and Mahler. 13–15 Oct: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Sokhiev, piano Lugansky) perform Franck, Rachmaninov, RimskyKorsakov. 26–28 Oct: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Fischer, soprano Karg) perform Bartók and Mozart. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbertvon-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester grace its stage regularly.

Berlin 3 Oct: Ju Percussion Group, Injecting new expression into 30th Anniversary Tour. 8–10 In its ‘36 Hours’ travel 19th- and 20th-century classical Sep: The Konzerthausorchester feature, the New York Times works under the lead of Marek (cond. Valery Gergiev) lists the Friedrichstadt-Palast Janowski, the oldest German radio performs Tarnopolski, as one of the top 10 orchestra with its 103 members Prokofiev, and Strauss. 16 Oct: must-see places in has won a place in the top tier of Vienna classics. 22–23 Oct: The Berlin.

European concert orchestras. www.

Konzerthausorchester (cond. Fischer) rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715. performs Beethoven. 21 Oct: The Horenstein Ensemble performs Brahms and others. 29 Oct: The Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin performs Händel, Boyce, and more.

30 Oct: Goran Bregovic and his Wedding and Funeral Band.

Dock 11 Studios & Eden www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt.

Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3 performances inside an old factory. Two locations, Philharmonie one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www.

The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße,

Potsdamer Straße 96 · 10785 Berlin Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 www.wintergarten-berlin.de * Prices plus advance booking fee and € 2,00 system fee/ticket

EXIL: © RITHY PANH.

DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES

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EXPERIDANCE and

Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312.

S+U Pankow. Off Map

THE BUDAPEST GYPSY SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRA

HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040.

U Hallesches Tor. E4

Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de.

Holzmarktstr. 33.

T: 030.288788588.

S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3

Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5.

T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

SIS ISSI SI

Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4.

T: 030.26066400.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

18.- 22.10.2016 Admiralspalast Berlin www.experidance.de www.experidance .de

Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116.

T: 030.78704019.

U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5

Tickets: 01806 - 999 0000

20 Cent/Anruf aus dem Festnetz, max. 60 Cent/Anruf aus Mobilfunknetzen

The best events in town

Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale is situated near the Zoologischer Garten station and now offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010.

S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4

Rock, Pop, Jazz A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105.

T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4

Arena A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4.

T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4 Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar.

Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123.

S+U Alexanderplatz. F2

Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio.

©ISTOCK

B Flat Jazz Club

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S.I.C. Stars in Concert Veranstaltungs GmbH, Berlin

ENTERTAINMENT

6

STARS LIVE ON STAGE

Blue Man Group

www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28.

T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5

Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts.

5 Oct: Birdy in concert. 15 Oct: Blue PIlls and Kavadar. 19 Oct: Three Doors Down. 27 Oct: The Cat Empire. www.columbia-theater.de.

Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5

Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map

Havanna The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www.havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30.

T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5

Lido A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers.

Check website for program. 3 Sep: Soul Explosion. 1 Oct: Soul Explosion. 8 Oct: Balkanbeats. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7.

T: 030.69566840.

U Schlesisches Tor. G4

Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the nowgone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. To 2 Oct: Salsa Congress. 3 Oct: Madness in concert. 20 Oct: Paul Simon in concert. 31 Oct: Bonnie Tyler in concert. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4

TICKETS: +49 (0)30 6831 6831 Wed – Sat 8:30 p.m., Sun 5:00 p.m. from 24 to 52,50 Euro plus fee

Most shows are in German, but there are frequent Yiddish song performances. Check website for info. www.juedischestheaterberlin.de. Friedrichstr.

101. T: 030.2511096.

S+U Friedrichstrasse. E3

Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Underart, a new circus performance by CirkusCirkör. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41.

T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2

Friedrichstadt-Palast

and German operettas that were banned by the Nazis.

A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären.

1 Oct: Comedy show with Luke Mockridge. 14 Oct: Schiller. 18 Oct: The Cure in concert. 28 Oct: Zucchero in concert. www.mercedes-benz-arenaberlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899.

U Warschauer Straße. G4

WWW.STARS-IN-CONCERT.DE

Bimah, the Jewish Theater

Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater.

All month: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www. palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107.

T: 030.23262326.

The Komische Oper brings back forgotten cabaret pieces U Friedrichstraße. E3

Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin

ESTREL FESTIVAL CENTER BERLIN

The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English.

Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de.

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444.

S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

Kookaburra

Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184.

T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Quatsch Comedy Club This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4

Tipi am Kanzleramt

Theater, Cabaret & Musicals

The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 3 Oct: Groove Symphonies, Double Drums. www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550.

U Bundestag. D3

Admiralspalast

Volksbühne

One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227.

T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2

Bar Jeder Vernunft

This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de.

Potsdamer Str. 96.

T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4

A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24.

T: 030.8831582.

U Spichernstraße. C4

Wintergarten Varieté

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Edi tion

International Festival for Films on Art DOKU.ARTS Essaydox

22 documentary and essayfilms from 16 countries (in English or with English subtitles) Zeughauskino Deutsches Historisches Museum Unter den Linden 2, 10117 Berlin www.doku-arts.de

Funded by

DA_Anzeige_2016_print_WhereBerlin_RZ.indd 1 WB DOKU ARTS.indd 1

In cooperation with

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Fragrances Bar - Ritz Carlton

Costume Party It should go without saying that the party capital of Europe has a myriad of good bars.

But night owls looking for more unique places to have a drink should check out these themed spots for an experience they won't forget.

You don't have to wait until 31 October to dress up – at Last Cathedral (www.lastcathedral.com, Schönhauser Allee 5) it's Halloween all year long.

This horror-themed rock bar in trendy Prenzlauer Berg recalls a dark tomb from the outside and a haunted house on the inside.

Skeletons, neon bats, and coffins adorn every corner, and with a mix of Gothic rock and metal and waiters dressed all in black, their regular events are a feast for horror fans. Despite all the doom and gloom, the atmosphere is light and friendly.

"Party 'til you drop" is the motto at hospitalthemed Sanatorium23 (www.sanatorium23. de, Frankfurter Allee 23). Lounge on hospitalbed-style couches as you sip your drink and

enjoy the DJs at the turntables, closing the transparent curtains for a little privacy. The cocktail menu is inspired by the periodic table: for example, “Li”, or lithium, will order you a Long Island Iced Tea. At Madame Claude (www. madameclaude.de, Lübbener Str. 19) in Kreuzberg you will see the world upside down even before you’ve started drinking.

Located in a former brothel, this bar hosts live music and DJs and has a completely furnished living room attached to the ceiling. The main activity here is dancing, with a bit of ping pong and table football on the side.

Inspired by the Brothers Grimm fountain across the road in Volkspark Friedrichshain, Fairytale (www.fairytale.bar, Am Friedrichshain 24) is an enchanting little bar full of references to Alice in Wonderland and other fables. The bar

staff are in full costume and the drinks menu is a pop-up children’s book with dreamy concoctions inside.

Follow your nose to Fragrances (www. ritzcarlton.com, Potsdamer Platz 3) at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel at Potsdamer Platz.

This is the first bar in the world dedicated to combining the art of cocktails with the world of perfume. Scents from Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent, and Guerlain form the inspiration for the unique drinks and artistic presentation of each.

Groups should definitely go for the perfume cocktail tasting package.

And you guessed it, the Barbie Bar (www. barbiebar.de, Mehringdamm 77) in Kreuzberg displays the famous, skinny Barbie doll everywhere. Go there for cake and cookies in the afternoon and cocktails and the occasional drag show in the evening.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF FRAGRANCES BAR, RITZ CARLTON.

It's not all about good drinks and music. The best bars have a unique twist, says Annabelle Mallia.

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BEER Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4

Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de.

Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930.

S Tiergarten. C3

Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1.

T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4

Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9.

T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4

final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3.

T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3

The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com.

Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555.

S+U Alexanderplatz. B4

Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de.

Winterfeldtstr. 50.

T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4

Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15.

T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4

LaBanca Bar

Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9.

T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1

The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090.

U Französische Straße. E3

Schleusenkrug

Newton Bar

A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3

Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar. de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421.

U Französische Straße. E3

Prater

CASINOS Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of classic roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www.spielbank-berlin.de. MarleneDietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4

WINE & COCKTAILS Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com.

Schiffbauerdamm 11.

T: 030.27582070.

S+U Friedrichstraße. E3

Fragrances ©ISTOCK PHOTOS.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF FRAGRANCES BAR, RITZ CARLTON.

NIGHTLIFE

The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes.

Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the

Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de.

Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676.

U Oranienburger Tor. E2

Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden in summer.

24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www. schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038.

U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4

Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. Open daily from noon to late evening. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10.

T: 030.311030.

S Savignyplatz. C4

Ask the bartender to mix you something special at Galander, Großbeerenstr. 54 in Kreuzberg.

CLUB GUIDE BERGHAIN/PANORAMA BAR The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am– Mon. www.berghain.de.

Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3

KATER BLAU A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de.

Holzmarktstr. 25. G3

TRESOR Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com.

Köpenicker Str. 70. F3

WATERGATE A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de.

Falckensteinstr. 49. G4

HOUSE OF WEEKEND Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house.

Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin. de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3

CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de.

Auguststr. 24.

U Rosenthaler Platz. E2

HORNS & HOOVES An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves. de. Danziger Str. 1. F1

GRETCHEN Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de.

Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4

FELIX CLUB A favorite among the rich and famous.

Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de.

Behrenstr. 72. E3

PURO SKY LOUNGE High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center.

Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de.

Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4

THE PEARL Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu– Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de.

Fasanenstr. 81. G4

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE Useful Information Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone.

Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone.

Medical Services, T: 030.310031.

24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.

T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.

Tourist Passes and Discount Cards Where Pass Berlin: public transport and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. Get it at the S-Bahn Berlin machines and service centers. www.wherepassberlin.com

Berlin Airports Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

Clockwise from left: Katz Orange; A cocktail at Bryk Bar; A fish dish at Dae Mon; Becketts Kopf.

Ask the Concierges We've asked the concierges from Berlin's top hotels to share their tips on their favorite spots for food and drink around town. Here are some of their recommendations: Robert Helfrich, Louisa’s Place: Dinner Dae Mon (Monbijouplatz 11, www.dae-mon. com). Korean-influenced fine dining Drinks The Hat (Lotta-Lenya-Bogen 550, www. thehatbar.de). Jazz and drinks with a 1920s film noir vibe.

Stefanie Bäslack, Hotel Zoo: Dinner Kochu Karu (Eberswalder Str. 35, www. kochukaru.de). Korean food with creative Spanish tapas influences.

Drinks Bryk (Rykestr. 18, www.bryk-bar.com).

Classy cocktails in Prenzlauer Berg.

Christoph Hundehege, Waldorf Astoria: Dinner Bocca di Bacco (Friedrichstr. 167, www. boccadibacco.de). The best of Italian cuisine, in the heart of Mitte.

Drinks Lost in Grub Street (Jägerstr. 4, www. lostingrubstreet.de). Old-timey bowls of punch to share with friends.

Nicolai Laaser, Sofitel Gendarmenmarkt: Dinner Katz Orange (Bergstr. 22, www. katzorange.com). Laid-back, Slow Food cooking in a brick brewery building.

Drinks Eastwood (Rosmarinstr. 8, www. eastwood-berlin.de). High-end bar and lounge in the heart of Mitte.

Thomas Munko, The Ritz-Carlton Dinner Yumcha Heroes (Weinbergsweg 8, www. yumchaheroes.de). Dumplings and other trendy Asian treats.

Drinks Buck & Breck (Brunnenstr. 177). Ring the bell and hope for a seat at this tiny Mitte cocktail bar.

Joachim Lenk, Hotel Adlon: Dinner Ushido (Lychener Str. 18, www.ushidobbq.com). Japanese grilled meat cooked right at your table.

Drinks Beckett’s Kopf (Pappelallee 64, www. becketts-kopf.de). Some of the best drinks in Prenzlauer Berg.

run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be bought on board.

By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70.

By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35.

Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.

Berlin Schönefeld (SXF) Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated

RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz.

Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30.

By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30.

By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas.

By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40.

Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4.

T: 030.60911150.

Getting Around Public Transport www.bvg.de.

Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €17,30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.

KATZ ORANGE: photo by Thanasis Boucharas; DAE MON: photo by oliver Plath; Becketts Kopsf: courtesy of becketts kopf; bryk bar: courtesy of bryk bar

TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten

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For more information on the where pass BERLIN, visit wherepassBERLIN.com

U-Bahn

Rent a Car

The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.

Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. T: 0180.6003690

S-Bahn

Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.

The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.

Money Services

Public Ferries

Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296.

Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.

With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.

Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.

Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.

Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:

MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG-0050.16 ; cityscape: © shutterstock/ lisa kolbasa.

www.callabike.de.

Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de.

T: 0163.5120124.

FREE TRAVEL ON PUBLIC TRANSPORT

IST TOUCROUNT DIS PASS

Banks and Foreign Exchange

Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440

Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused.

Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.

CITY GUIDE

CITY MAP

Where Pass Berlin The city of Berlin is a magnificent place, bursting with things to see and do. The all-new Where Pass Berlin makes experiencing the city convenient and hassle-free. Users of the Where Pass Berlin are able to travel around using the public transport system, enjoy shopping and dining throughout the city, gain discounted access to top attractions, and find valuable information in the included Berlin guidebook. Immerse yourself in everything Berlin has to offer with the Where Pass Berlin.

Visit www.wherepassberlin.com for details.

DISCOUNTS

STARTING AT 25 €

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hananREAD g r Al l HOW TO THIS MAP: ns str line

all tThe pink line follows the Bize rbee ns old Berlin Wall trail. erhmtr.

Bra Mey Orange-colored areas Gü instr.

Chop lst indicatertestreets of tourist r. interest. nns-E Mich isl Buselalines of tourist interest erng elo Str outlined are in red. . str .

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U

WHERE NOW | MARIANNA EVENSTEIN

My Berlin

MARIANNA EVENSTEIN For anyone keeping up with the news coming out of Germany, Marianna Evenstein will be a familiar face. A longtime news presenter for the Deutsche Welle TV network, she is also a multitalented event host, moderator, and voiceover actor.

Born and raised in New York, Evenstein has lived in Germany for 17 years and settled in Berlin in 2008. www.marianna-evenstein.com How would you compare Berlin to the city where you grew up, New York? New York is inspiring and intense. But it’s also incredibly loud, crowded, and chaotic. I love going back to New York to visit, but I always return to Berlin with a renewed appreciation for what a wonderfully livable city this is. There is also an amazing and creative energy here, and it’s so wonderfully green.

What part of the city do you call home?

I live in a neighborhood that straddles the districts of Wedding and Mitte, near where the Wall stood. I love it as it’s a bit removed from the tourist areas, but close to the trendier parts of Prenzlauer Berg and Mitte.

A favorite spot in your neighborhood?

One of my favorite places for incredible coffee and Italian sandwiches and cakes is La Caffètteria (Brunnenstr. 153). The owner is a trained pastry chef and he makes all the cakes, cantuccini and delicious pastries himself. Order the apple-walnut cake – it’s an old family recipe from Angelo’s grandmother!

If Berlin were a person, what do you think their voice would sound like? I suppose Berlin – which a former mayor once

described as “poor but sexy” – would have a voice to fit that description. Female for sure, a bit scratchy and husky from too many cigarettes and coffee, but raw and real.

When you have friends come to visit, where do you take them? A few key landmarks are a must, like the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. I am always moved by the sight of the bombed-out church that was left as a memorial to peace. Other sights I find particularly worthwhile are the Berlin Wall Memorial on Bernauer Straße, the East Side Gallery, and the Soviet War Memorial in Treptow. I love taking visitors around Hackescher Markt for fun shopping, and then along the Spree River to Museum Island.

I often take visitors on a walk up Weinbergsweg, stopping at Café Galão (Weinbergsweg 8), a Portuguese espresso bar with awesome pastel de nata. The street turns into Kastanienallee, lined with cafés, boutiques, and quirky shops. For dinner, a fun place is I Due Forni (Schönhauser Allee 12),

my favorite “punk” pizzeria with spotty service but fantastic food. And for jazz lovers, a great place is the B-flat club (Dircksenstr. 40).

If you had an entire day off, how would you spend your perfect day?

I would start with a quick breakfast in my neighborhood at La Caffètteria, then head to Center of Dance (Schönhauser Allee 36) for a ballet class. Afterwards, I would treat myself to a Thai massage at Lotus (Zionskirchstr. 34).

Then I’d head to the other side of the city for lunch at NENI, a fabulous restaurant on the top floor of the 25hours Hotel with breathtaking panoramic views. I’d pop into Berlin’s Museum of Photography (Jebensstr. 2), then stroll to Savignyplatz and pick a café to unwind with a good book. For dinner I’d meet friends at Good Friends (Kantstr. 30), one of Berlin’s oldest and most authentic Chinese restaurants. After dark I’d head to Lido (Cuvrystr. 7) to catch some live music. On the way back to my part of town, I’d stop for a late-night drink at Scotch & Sofa (Kollwitzstr. 18), an eclectic, retro, and very charming bar.

Clockwise from top left: The East Side Gallery; Marianna Evenstein; Museum Island; coffee and cantuccini; pastel de nata; sabich at Neni; the Berlin Wall memorial on Bernauer Straße.

MARIANNA EVENSTEIN: PHOTO BY THOMAS RAFALZYK, COURTESY OF MARIANNA EVENSTEIN; FOOD: COURTESY OF NENI; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: ©ISTOCK.

TV HOST AND EVENT PRESENTER

66 W H E R E B E R L I N I O C TO B E R 2016

66 WB OCT MY BERLIN.indd 66

16/09/2016 11:18

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