BEST OF MORE THAN 300 SHOPS DELICIOUS FOOD HALL
SHOPPING Monday - Saturday 10am - 9pm
LEIPZIGER PLATZ 12
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MALL OF BERLIN
MALLOFBERLIN.DE
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Berlin
12.16
CONTENTS
See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com
The Plan Let’s get started
The Guide The best of Berlin
XX
6 Hot Dates
Come Christmastime, the call of the shopping mall is especially loud.
Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from a Christmas circus to gospel nights and Hanukkah.
10
6
SIGHTSEEING
42 XX
Happy kids make happy parents! Children can get creative while you appreciate the arts.
14
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
48 XX
German history as told by 200 storied artifacts showcased at Martin-Gropius-Bau. DINING
54
XX plenty of space in your Leave belly for the good old goose, a German holiday delicacy.
18
74 My Berlin Tainá Guedes This gallery owner brings together food and art.
There's nothing like Christmas carols and heavenly choirs to lift your spirits.
Also Inside 70 Ask The Concierge
Happy New Year! Find the best events to help kick off 2017.
Where Now
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ON THE COVER
A nostalgic look back at the best things that happened in Berlin this year.
ANNABELLE MALLIA
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09/11/2016 11:12
BY SOLVEIG STEINHARDT AND
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SHOPPING | ENTERTAINMENT | CULTURE | DINING | MAPS 00 WB DEC COVER.indd 1
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GIft ideas for a stress-free Christmas shopping spree.
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18 Best of 2016
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Ballet, concerts, Christmas markets, and other can’t-miss events
BY HILDA HOY
BUNDESTAG Paul-
nel gartentun Tierg
Holiday Magic
Essential tips for a truly magical winter holiday.
14 The Joys Of Giving
Y.-R abinStr. r
10 The Perfect Berlin Christmas
From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.
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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
ESSENTIALS
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Sandra Bösemüller, concierge at The Regent Hotel, shares her tips.
DECEMBER 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM
ENTERTAINMENT
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H.-v.GagernStr.
SANTA ON BIKE: ©ISTOCK PHOTO; POSTDAMER PLATZ: © HARALD PAULENZ; MARKTHALLE 9, COURETSY OF MARKTHALLE NEUN ; KRIGLER: COURTESY OF KRIGLER; JELLYFISH INSTALLATION, TAINÁ GUEDES, © JAVIER BLANCO CHIOCCHIO.
SHOPPING
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5 Editor’s Note
B Mu
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WELCOME TO BERLIN
Goodbye 2016! Another exciting year went by and here we are, ready to jump into the next one, impatient to see what lovely surprises Berlin has prepared for us. 2016 has been a great year for WHERE Berlin: we had the pleasure of interviewing celebrities like Michelinstarred chef Tim Raue and actress Michelle Forbes of True Blood fame, and also paid our own tribute to David Bowie by visiting the Berlin he knew and loved when he recorded his Berlin Trilogy. But that's not all. This year, Christmas came early for us: we received a Premier Print Award of Recognition from the Printing Industries of America, an award that "goes to those firms that demonstrate a unique ability to create visual masterpieces. Chosen from thousands of entries, each represents the unique partnership between designer and printer, need and creativity, technology and craft." I would like to personally thank our wonderful staff, both in Berlin and in London, who work hard every day to help us deliver useful visitor information so beautifully! Happy holidays!
PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE Š TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK
SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN
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HOT
DATES December in Berlin is a month of exciting events, from Christmas markets and circus shows to choir concerts and Santas on bikes.
THE TEHRAN COLLECTION
4
FROM SUNDAY
For the first time ever, artworks from the collection of the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art will be on display outside of Iran, to be shown instead at Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie. Alongside important examples of Iranian art, this collection includes works by Pollock and Mark Rothko and is one of the biggest collections of 20th-century Western art outside of Europe and the US. The exhibition runs until next February, when it will be moving on to Rome's MAXXI museum of contemporary art. www.smb.museum
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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
RONCALLI CHRISTMAS CIRCUS FROM FRIDAY
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Step right up ladies and gentlemen, the circus is coming to town! With lots of amazing acrobats, magicians, music, and funny clowns, the Roncalli Christmas Circus has been an annual Christmas tradition for German kids and kids at heart for more than 30 years. Grab tickets to one of the shows, performing almost daily until 31 December at Tempodrom. www.roncalli.de
DECORATIVE ARTS FAIR
8 HAPPY HANUKKAH
24 FROM THURSDAY
This year, Jews around the world will have to wait until nearly the end of the month for the happy Hanukkah festivities to begin. In Berlin, there will be public menorah lightings in front of the Brandenburg Gate and eIsewhere in the city, but for a more in-depth look at Jewish Berlin, pay a visit to the Jewish Museum, which also features an exhibition on the Golem, the mystical anthropomorphic being that animated Jewish folklore in medieval Prague. www.jmberlin.de
FROM THURSDAY
Berlin's Decorative Arts Fair is one of the leading fairs for contemporary art for everyday use, and an opportunity for upcoming artists to showcase their work to design connoisseurs. Admire the best of German design, from hats to delicate glass bowls and obscure lamps. This four-day event held at the Deutsches Historisches Museum culminates in the awarding of the Berlin Volksbank Prize for Decorative Art. Come after 6pm on Saturday for free entry. zeughausmesse.de
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UNDERART FROM THURSDAY
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The latest show of award-winning Swedish circus troupe Cirkus Cirkör, Underart - Ode to a Crash Landing is one of the most poetically spectacular shows in town these days. With an ensemble of seven artists, the show is full of absurd acrobatic feats, dry Scandinavian humor, and live music, and tells a story of getting up after being knocked down by life. Five shows a week all month, in the cozy, historical ballroom of the Chamäleon Theater. www.chamaeleonberlin.com
CHRISTMAS BIKE TOUR SATURDAY
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Santa Claus start your engine! Every year, hundreds of bikers don the red suit and beard and take to the streets with their hearts filled with the joy of giving. From their starting point in Steglitz, the rumbling convoy of jolly bikers will ride around town delivering goods and presents to homeless shelters and charities, with pit stops at Christmas markets along the way to rustle up donations. www.berlin-christmas-biketour.de
HARLEM GOSPEL NIGHTS
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FROM FRIDAY
Oh Happy Day! Time to clap those hands, sway those hips, and sing along to the soulful harmonies and uplifting chorus lines of Donna Brown and the Golden Gospel Pearls, – tunes that have been reverberating through Schöneberg’s Apostel-PaulusKirche every festive season for over 20 years. The shows take place all month every weekend, while on 20-22 Dec the Admiralspalast will be presenting the farewell show of gospel star Queen Esther Marrow. www.franzhans06.de, www.admiralspalast.de
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HOT DATES
DECEMBER
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Sing along with the one and only Pet Shop Boys, in concert at Tempodrom. Ooh la la! Chippendales, the legendary male strip troupe, will get hearts racing tonight. Toast to the weekend at Hopfenreich, featuring Berlin's biggest craft beer range. Enjoy a cozy Advent Sunday at the historic, elegant Café Einstein Stammhaus. Whee! Go sliding down the 12-meter-high ice slide at the Potsdamer Platz Winter World. Take a musical lunch break at the Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. Fun, kooky Canadian indie band The Hidden Cameras plays live at Musik & Frieden tonight. See that beautiful Christmas classic, The Nutcracker, danced by the Staatsballett. Hear experimental electronic musician Nicolas Jaar work his magic at Columbiahalle. The Harlem Gospel Nights choir fills ApostelPaulus Church with rousing spiritual tunes. Visit Chamäleon Theater to see their newest circus show, the exciting & joy-filled Underart. Catch a film at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, which specializes in movies in English. Head to Friedrichstadt-Palast for The One, a splendid show featuring Gaultier costumes. Hip hop fans: don't miss seeing Talib Kweli perform live at Columbia-Theater tonight. Feast on international delicacies at the Street Food Thursday event at Markthalle Neun. Fancy a big night out? Enjoy decadent dinner, drinks, and dancing at Bar Tausend. Sip Glühwein and shop for unique gifts at the Advent Market at bucolic Domäne Dahlem. Get in the swing of the season at the Christmas in Swing concert at Konzerthaus. Kids and grownups alike will be enthralled by Hansel and Gretel at the Deutsche Oper. Step right up! The exciting Roncalli Christmas Circus is at Tempodrom daily until 27 Dec. Hit the dance floor at Clärchens Ballhaus, Mitte's charming centenarian dance hall. Admire the famous bust of Nefertiti, queen of Ancient Egypt, at the Neues Museum. Mark the weekend with cocktails at Bryk, Prenzlauer Berg's chicest nightlife spot. Hanukkah sameach! Mark the first day of Hanukkah at Brandenburg Gate. Merry Christmas! Celebrate with a concert of Vivaldi's Four Seasons at Passionskirche. Show off your skating moves at the ice rink by the Neptune Fountain on Alexanderplatz. Warm up with coffee and cake by the crackling fireplace at Café am neuen See. Watch Berlin's Eisbären hockey team play at their home rink, Mercedes-Benz-Arena. Admire the Staatsballett in Jewels, from choreography legend George Balanchine. Take a wintry walk around Schlachtensee lake with a stop for refreshments at Fischerhütte. Happy new year! Join the crowds by Brandenburg Gate for festive fireworks.
DUANE HANSON: BOXERS, 1970 | POLYESTER & FIBERGLASS, 178 CM | © TEHRAN MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART; RONCALLI CIRCUS: WWW.RONCALLI.DE; HANUKKAH: ISTOCK PHOTO; ZEUGMESSE: BERLINER KAPPEN, PHOTO BY NANCY WARNKE; UNDERART, ODE TO A CRASH LANDING; PHOTO BY MATS BÄCKER; COURTESY OF CHAMÄLEON; CHRISTMAS BIKE TOUR: © ISTOCK PHOTO; THE HARLEM GOSPEL NIGHTS: © THOMAS BRILL.
WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
For more ideas, see our Entertainment section.
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THE NUTCRACKER
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MAGICAL SHOP WINDOWS
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BAUMKUCHEN CHRISTMAS CAKE
This special Christmas treat is made by brushing thin layers of batter onto a rotating spit, which lends this "tree cake" the distinctive rings behind its name. Keep an eye out for Baumkuchen at Christmas markets around town, or pay a visit to the Konditorei Buchwald café in Moabit. This family-run bakery started out in 1852 making pastries for the royal court, and their Baumkuchen is still just as delicious more than 160 years later. Bartningallee 29, www.konditorei-buchwald.de
London has Harrods, New York has Saks Fifth Avenue, and Berlin has Kaufhaus des Westens, better known as KaDeWe. Every year, the luxury department store creates splendid holiday scenes in its display windows, the perfect spot for window shopping and gift-giving inspiration. Tauentzienstr. 21–24, www.kadewe.de
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THE NUTCRACKER, STAATSBALLETT BERLIN, PHOTO BY YAN REVAZOV; BAUMKUCHEN AND SHOP WINDOWS: © ISTOCK PHOTO.
One of the most loved ballets of all time, The Nutcracker is synonymous with Christmas. Be enchanted with Clara’s Christmas Eve dreamtime world of toy soldiers coming to life, dancing chocolates and candy canes, and the beautiful Sugar Plum Fairy. The Staatsballett Berlin’s stunning show is set in the 1913 era of Art Nouveau, with updated costumes and choreography from Staatsballett director Nacho Duato. Dec. 1, 7–9, 28, 30 at Deutsche Oper. www.staatsballett-berlin.de
11/11/2016 09:44
KU'DAMM, CHRISTMAS MARKETS, ICE SKATING: © ISTOCK; KÄTHE WOHLFAHRT: ©KÄTHE WOHLFAHRT GMBH&CO.OHG; LOUIS LEWANDOWSKI FESTIVAL: COURTESY OF LOUIS LEWANDOWSKI
The holidays are the most magical time of the year here in the capital city. To experience all the wonders of the season, follow Hilda Hoy's tips for the 12 Berlin Christmas essentials.
CHRISTMAS ESSENTIALS | WHERE BERLIN
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A HOLIDAY WONDERLAND
KU'DAMM, CHRISTMAS MARKETS, ICE SKATING: © ISTOCK; KÄTHE WOHLFAHRT: ©KÄTHE WOHLFAHRT GMBH&CO.OHG; LOUIS LEWANDOWSKI FESTIVAL: COURTESY OF LOUIS LEWANDOWSKI FESTIVAL.
WINDOWS: © ISTOCK PHOTO.
It's Christmas all year 'round at Käthe Wohlfahrt. Visiting this store from Germany's most famous ornament maker is truly like stepping into an enchanted Christmas world, with each nook and cranny filled with toys, gifts, and every shiny, beautiful, delicate Christmas ornament imaginable. At the heart of the store is a splendid, two-storyhigh tree, wrapped around with a winding rotunda that lets you admire the festive decorations from every angle. Kurfürstendamm 225–226. www.wohlfahrt.com
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HIT THE ICE
When the weather is nippy, nothing will keep you warm better than a few turns around the ice-skating rink. To practice your spins, head to the Christmas market at Alexanderplatz's Rotes Rathaus, where the star attraction is an ice rink that wraps around the picturesque Neptune Fountain. Rental skates are on hand, and there are regular tutorials for kids. Open Mon–Fri 12–10pm, Sat–Sun from 11am. Closed 24 Dec.
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ADMIRE THE LIGHTS
Winter is long and sunless here in Northern Europe, but Christmas is the one time when that darkness takes on a certain charm, thanks to the twinkling lights that decorate the city. Admire the atmosphere on a stroll down Unter den Linden, where strings of lights festoon the trees all the way down the historic boulevard. Out west on the Ku'damm, the shopping thoroughfare is also aglow with a dazzling light show.
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CHRISTMAS CONCERTS
All month long, church concerts around town are reviving the spirit of the season. During Christmas week, the historic Berliner Dom cathedral features several concert highlights, including a concert with the Berlin Radio Choir and the Deutsches Symphonie Orchester Berlin on 22 Dec. (www.berlinerdom.de) On 11 Dec., Bach's Christmas Oratorio will ring out through the Gethsemane Church in Prenzlauer Berg. And from 15–18 Dec., the Louis Lewandoski Festival (photo, above) brings numerous performances of Jewish liturgical music to the city. www.louis-lewandowski-festival.de
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CHRISTMAS MARKETS
It just doesn't feel like Christmas without a visit to at least one of Berlin's numerous Christmas markets for food, drink, games, and browsing. Amongst the most well-known markets are the ones at Gendarmenmarkt and Schloss Charlottenburg, but it's often the smaller markets that have more unique personalities. Don't miss out on the Scandinavianthemed Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt in Prenzlauer Berg's Kulturbrauerei as well. The Domäne Dahlem farm hosts a cozy Advent market every weekend this month, and on 5–6 Dec., Arena will be the site of the unique Japanese Christmas Market. www.weihnachteninberlin.de
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WHERE BERLIN | CHRISTMAS ESSENTIALS
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SLIP AND SLIDE
Try your hand at a game of Eisstockschießen (a Bavarian version of curling) at Café am neuen See, a pond-side locale in Tiergarten park that is undoubtedly one of the most idyllic spots in the city. After you're finished on the ice, head into the cozy inside area to warm up next to the crackling fire with a mug of something hot and delicious. Could there be a nicer way to spend a winter afternoon? Lichtensteinallee 2. www.cafeamneuensee.de
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ADRENALINE RUSH
If a ski holiday isn't in the works this Christmas, a bit of urban sledding is the next best thing. If we're lucky enough to have a white Christmas, Volkspark Friedrichshain and Humboldthain Park in Wedding both have formidable hills that attract droves of sled-happy kids after every snowfall. If the park hills are still looking too green, head to the Potsdamer Platz Winterwelt for a whiz down the 12-meter-high, 70-meter-long hill constructed there amidst the skyscrapers. There are "snowtubes" available for rent for zipping down the steep, icy slope. Winterwelt open 10am–10pm daily (until 4pm on 24 Dec.)
GO FOR GOOSE
The holidays are for feasting, from Christmas market snacks to the plentiful sweet treats of the season. But one dish surpasses all others as the highlight of the German Christmas table: succulent roast goose with stewed cabbage and dumplings. For tips on where to get your goose fix, turn to page 54.
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GLÜHWEIN INDULGENCE
Glühwein, warm red wine gently mulled with cinnamon, cloves, and other spices, is undoubtedly the drink of the season. It's a delicious way to stay warm and cheerful despite the December chill, and you can't take more than a few steps at a Christmas market without finding another vendor hawking the stuff. Pay a deposit to have it served in a ceramic mug that you can take home as a souvenir. Prost!
WINTERWELT POTSDAMER PLATZ: © HARALD PAULENZ; ALL OTHER PHOTOS: ©ISTOCK.
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Magical Ideas For
CHRISTMAS
MEISSEN® BOUTIQUE BERLIN UNTER DEN LINDEN
MEISSEN® BOUTIQUE BERLIN IM KADEWE
Unter den Linden 39 b · 10117 Berlin +49 30 22679028 · berlinu@meissen.com
Tauentzienstraße 21-24 · 10789 Berlin +49 30 21964150 · kadewe@meissen.com
www.meissen.com
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WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE
THE JOYS OF GIVING Solveig Steinhardt and Annabelle Mallia spent a day out and about to find perfect gift ideas for the season.
I
t's beginning to look a lot like Christmas, and to feel like it too. And since we've all got long lists of friends and family members who deserve our love and gifts, we compiled our best original ideas that will also help you discover some of the most interesting shops in town. Experts say that planning ahead and starting early is key to stress-free and enjoyable Christmas shopping.
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"G" for giraffe, "M" for moth, or "R" for raven? These alphabet pillows by Typehype are a soft and comfy present.
Travel in style with this leather beauty case from Manufactum.
Geometric, modular, minimalist: this flower vase by Vitra recalls a honeycomb and looks good with flowers and without.
We all miss the beach these days. These pebble candle holders by Corotos Market will help you remember the distant shores of your dreams.
Give the gift of warmth with this hot water bottle jacket made of boiled wool. You'll find it at design emporium Manufactum.
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This sterling silver Montblanc fountain pen will bring back the desire to write by hand.
AMSmost E R D R E P A P paper, the it
e We lov materials. Vis of ic ique poet s for un to e r o t s pho these urnals, jo , s d r a iting c and wr , s k o o b ents. instrum What's your favorite letter? Typehype makes alphabet-themed stationery and home design for personalized gifts.
A pretty Vitra box to store photos and memories.
Sometimes, your words can say more than the present itself. Frame them in a special card from P&T.
You are never fully dressed without perfume. The Chateau Krigler 12 fragrance, once worn by Grace Kelly, is an exclusive addition to any woman's perfume collection.
Whether on the rocks or neat, we could all use a sip of whisky once in a while. Try Glenturret 1987 Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky, bottled for Manufactum.
A PLEAS FOR THE URE Swee SENS tand w smelling p ES in i
c a sen tr y drinks ks sorial for throu journey gh holid the ays. There is always time for tea. An iconic Russian blend, Tsarevna 150 from historical tea seller Kusmi Tea is a Christmas holiday must have.
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WHERE NOW | GIFT GUIDE
Storybooks don't always need words. Follow the characters through the extravagant scenes of Wimmelbuch books and tell your own tale. The Berlin one by Judith Drews is also a lovely souvenir. Find it at Dussmann.
FULiven Y A L P Y A T S ver be forg
e You'll n tting the little e g mile for for re-fire s se u s a g rin the ones. B te faces with u c re a to their an toys. You m ng Ger oo you never t for fun!
The tallest building in Berlin is made for stacking. The TV Tower Stapelspiel from Phil Goods is a two-in-one toy and souvenir.
Plastic? No way! Germans are proud of their wooden toys. Haba's marble tracks inspire creativity and will have little ones shouting with glee each time the ball drops. Buy one at KaDeWe.
Balance bikes are an essential item for German toddlers, who seem to be riding on two wheels even before being fully toilet trained. This Laufrad from PUKY will have your little one scooting around all over town. Get yours at Toys'R'Us.
Cooking is just more fun in a colorful pot by Le Creuset. The sweetest reminder of your Berlin trip: a Phil Goods cookie cutter shaped as the Branderburg Gate. You can never go wrong with a set of white porcelain serving plates by KPM Berlin.
IN THE KIT C
HEN
Makin someo g food for expres ne is a way o sing f your lo love, so giv e ve right in d ones the strume nts!
ADDRESS BOOK Corotos Market: www.corotosmarket.com; Dussmann: Friedrichstr. 90; Haba: KaDeWe: Tauentzienstr. 21-24; KPM Berlin: Wegelystr. 1; Krigler: Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77; Kusmi Tea: Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 45; Le Creuset: Friedrichstr. 191; Manufactum: Hardenbergstr. 4-5; Montblanc: Friedrichstr. 80; P & T: Bleibtreustr. 4; Phil Goods: www.phil-goods.com; Toys'R'Us: Mall of Berlin: Leipziger Platz 12; Typehype: Rosa-Luxemburg-StraĂ&#x;e 9-13; Vitra and Artek Concept Store: Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 45.
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NUMBER ONE IN SHOPPING, LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN CHRISTMAS OPENING HOURS: FROM 25.11. FR – SA | 10 AM – 10 PM OPEN ON SUNDAYS: FOOD COURT AND LEISURE AREA
SUNDAY SHOPPING: 04. AND 18.12. | 1 PM – 8 PM
180 SHO PS FA S H I O N , ACCESS O E L EC T R R I E S , O N I CS , B O O KS & M UCH M OR S H O PPI N E G
www.alexacentre.com |
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become a fan of ALEXA
07/11/2016 14:34
Berlin’s
Best of
A dedicated nostalgic, Hilda Hoy wanted to look back on the best things to happen in her city over the last year.
2016 Berlin
JULY 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM
®
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
BERLIN'S
THE FOOD ISSUE
STAR CHEF Culinary master Tim Raue on his city's gourmet scene
PLUS
GERMAN WINES ASIAN RESTAURANTS STREET FOOD
As the year winds down to a close, it’s something of a tradition to cast a look back at some of the best (or worst) things that happened over the last 12 months. In the spirit of reminiscing, here’s our Top 8 list of the most exciting and noteworthy Berlin occurrences of the past year.
8
Back And Better Than Ever
After decades of disuse, the beautiful Stadtbad Oderberger Straße swimming pool – built in 1902 in grand Neo-Renaissance style – reopened after extensive renovations. It’s part of a hotel and event space, but open to swimmers. The Zeiss Planetarium in Prenzlauer Berg also reopened in August, and now hosts spiffy new exhibits as well as a gourmet bistro with Tim Raue on board as a consultant.
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Rest In Peace, David bowie
The death of David Bowie in January started the year off on a terrible note, but the outpouring of local tributes was some small consolation. In August, a memorial plaque was unveiled at Hauptstr. 155, the Schöneberg building where Bowie lived in the late 1970s. Normally the bureaucracy to put up such a plaque takes five years, Berlin’s mayor said, but in this case an exception was made.
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More Culinary Stars
This year, the renowned Michelin Guide awarded its much-coveted stars to more Berlin restaurants than ever, with a total of 26 stars bequeathed to 20 eateries (two have since closed, taking the current total down to 18). Horváth in Kreuzberg was thrilled to achieve twostar status for the first time, while recent upstart Nobelhart & Schmutzig was the most exciting Michelin star winner of the year.
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World Renown for Tim Raue
Tim Raue, a longtime holder of a Michelin star for his self-named Berlin restaurant (and cover model for our July issue), won another major distinction this summer: a place (#34) on the celebrated World's 50 Best Restaurants list.
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Markthalle neun, Bigger & Better
Kreuzberg’s hotspot of food culture, the 19th-century Markthalle Neun market hall (www.markthalleneun.de), renovated and expanded and is now better than ever. There’s now a bigger café space, a new chef whipping up lunches in the Kantine, and even more enticing market vendors.
07/06/2016 16:34
Cheers!
As a city that loves to drink, Berlin is always on top of booze trends. Two exciting new bars focused on natural wines opened in Neukölln this year: Wild Things (Weserstr. 172) and Jaja (Weichselstr. 7). Meanwhile, California’s Stone Brewing company opened a huge complex down south in Mariendorf that’s brewery, bistro, and craft beer garden in one (www.stonebrewing.eu).
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Club Culture
In September, legendary techno club Berghain won a longstanding legal appeal. In short, Berghain is now recognized as an institution of cultural significance, meaning it pays the same lower tax rate enjoyed by museums and theaters. A victory for the many club-goers for whom Berghain is a part of the city’s unique cultural fabric.
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Tourism Boom
With 12.4 million tourists visiting Berlin, 2015 was the best year ever for the city’s tourism industry, and 2016 kept that upward trend going strong. The official numbers won’t be tabulated until next year, but figures show that the total number of tourists to Berlin has more than doubled in the last decade. Thanks for coming to visit us!
market pictures: courtesy of markthalle neun; Hotel Oderberger ©Heiko Pense 1230 ; Berghain by Tobias Fiebiger CC via Flickr; Tim Raue on the cover of Where Berlin July 2016, photo by nils hasenau.
Where now | Best of 2016
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THE JOY OF STYLE
10 € OFF *
YOUR INSTORE PURCHASE WHEN SPENDING 60€ OR MORE FROM 01.12 - 31.12.2016 * The offer is valid until 31.12.2016 in the stores in Berlin only. It does not apply to other UNIQLO stores or online on Uniqlo.com. Valid for the complete collection.
100% EXTRA-FINE MERINO CARDIGAN Made with 100% Extra Fine Merino wool for comfort and an elegant shape.
39,90 € UNIQLO FLAGSHIP STORE · Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C UNIQLO LEIPZIGER PLATZ · Leipziger Platz 16 UNIQLO HACKESCHER MARKT · Rosenthaler Straße 42 Shop online www.uniqlo.com/de Bitte beachten Sie, dass die Farben und Proportionen der hier abgebildeten Artikel zueinander anders ausfallen können. Dies kann drucktechnisch bedingt sein. Alle Artikel sind erhältlich, solange der Vorrat reicht. 10.11.2016, UNIQLO EUROPE LTD, German Branch, Tauentzienstraße 7 B/C, 10789 Berlin.
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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE
Clockwise from left: Mall of Berlin; the Bikini Berlin concept mall; the cake counter at KaDeWe. Inset, below: the Alexa mall.
The Call Of The Mall Germany has a small-store, specialist mentality. Doing your groceries involves a trip to the bakery, butcher, drugstore, fruit and vegetable markets, and the (relatively small) supermarket for everything else. But when it comes to Christmas shopping, nothing can beat the convenience of a shopping mall with everything you need under one roof. The newest of them all, opened in September 2014, is the Mall of Berlin (p. 21), on the site where Europe's largest and most luxurious department store, the Wertheim, stood during the Golden Twenties. Reduced to rubble by WWII bombs, the area has been restored back to its former glory and is once again a shopper’s paradise, with more than 270 shops and an impressive glass-domed piazza at the mall's heart. The location near the Reichstag, Brandenburg Gate, and the Holocaust Memorial, together with Berlin’s largest food court, also make it an ideal pit stop
for hungry sightseers. Continuing with the historical theme, concept mall Bikini Berlin (p. 21) was built inside the landmark Bikini-Haus, one of the symbols of West Berlin's post-war reconstruction. The shopping center is now an upscale mix of designer boutiques and flagship stores, and its rooftop terrace, as big as a soccer field, offers sweeping views of the zoo and Tiergarten. In terms of convenience, Alexa (p. 21), centrally located at the Alexanderplatz transport hub, scores high. The red, Art Deco-style building with its golden porches stands out against the otherwise grey Communist-influenced architecture of the square. Fashion and accessories are well represented, as are electronic goods, and toys. Nearby on Alexanderplatz is Galeria Kaufhof
(p. 21) the former East German department store boasting more than 600 luxury brands and an exquisite gourmet section. For luxury shopping, look no further than Quartier 206, home to the upscale shop Departmentstore 206 (p. 21), featuring carefully selected fashion, lifestyle items, and even art from the world's most exclusive designers. But the granddaddy of Berlin's shopping scene is KaDeWe (p. 21). Technically a department store, its six floors of pure luxury products and specialized service mean you’ll be spoiled for choice, and their Christmas window displays are always reason enough to stop by. Do not miss the food hall on the 6th floor, famous for the wide array of premium international food and on-site chefs and a great place for a quick break from the "joys" of Christmas shopping.
courtesy of Mall of Berlin, Bikini Berlin, Alexa, KaDeWe.
So much shopping to do, so little time. Fortunately, Berlin has many one-stop spots. Annabelle Mallia lays out the merits of the city's malls.
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SHOPPING
THE
where GUIDELINES
This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.
INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 72-73. Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 4 December, 18 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights. Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.
Department stores & malls
Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Galeries Lafayette
throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platzarkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors The quiet Suarezstraße rise up around this centerpiece, in Charlottenburg packed with perfumes, clothing, and is the place to go for accessories. The food counter offers antiques. Departmentstore a wide range of French specialties and Quartier 206 there’s a corner selling teas from the This multi-brand store inside the Quartier famed French tea house Mariage Frères. 206 luxury mall carries select men’s and women’s www.galerieslafayette.de. fashion, beauty products, books, art, and flowers. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. www.dsq206.com. Friedrichstr. 71. U Französische Straße. E3 T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3
Concept Stores
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe)
The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s
Herrlich Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2. T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5
Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but
ADVERTORIAL
Alexa Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
ADVERTORIAL
BIKINI BERLIN Opened in April 2014, BIKINI BERLIN is an extraordinary urban market square that exemplifies the idea of mixed-use space. Amid the mixture of public and commercial endeavors, the striking rooftop the size of a football field offers sensational views of Tiergarten and access to a plethora of restaurants and shopping attractions. www.bikiniberlin.de. Budapester Str. 42-50. T: 030.55496425. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map
Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de.
Krigler, The Scent Of Tradition Ever since 1904, when Albert Krigler launched his line of artisanal perfumes, the Krigler brand has been synonymous with unique luxury fragrances made with the finest ingredients sourced around the world. In 1905, Krigler’s original shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s legendary music and cabaret scene, and in 1909 his scents went abroad when he opened a new boutique in the south of France, where he became the perfumer of F. Scott Fitzgerald, Hemingway, and Picasso. Over the years, his fragrances have been appreciated by celebrities such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Coco Chanel. After more than a century, Ben Krigler, Albert's fifth-generation descendant, brought the Krigler storied legacy back to Berlin with a perfume boutique right on Unter den Linden, where it all began. Krigler, Hotel Adlon. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030 80494144. www.krigler.eu.
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1. Marc Cain, Friedrichstr. 61 and Kurfürstendamm 69. 2. Seidensticker Store Berlin, Alexa, Grunerstr. 20. 3. Tiger of Sweden, Neue Schönhauser Str. 9. 4. Montblanc, Friedrichstr. 80. 5. Navyboot, Kurfürstendamm 40/41 and Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 6. Marc Cain, Friedrichstr. 61 and Kurfürstendamm 69. 7. Day Birger et Mikkelsen, www.day.dk. 8. Rolex Boutique, Kurfürstendamm 184. 9. Oscar de la Renta, Cadenzza, Friedrichstr. 172.
BACKGROUND © ISTOCK
Claudia Koksch shares her picks for a classy New Year's Eve.
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Are you ready for the original? A Niessing Ring® with a floating diamond.
NIESSING BERLIN Stilwerk Kantstraße 17 berlin.niessing.com
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IT'S ALL IN THE DETAILS Check out Claudia Koksch's favorite accessories for partying in style.
1. Necklace by Niessing, stilwerk Berlin, Kantstr. 17. 2. Earrings by Versace, Cadenzza, Friedrichstr. 172. 3. Bracelet by Wagner Preziosen, Mommsenstr. 4. 4. Necklace by Wempe, Kurfürstendamm 215 and Friedrichstr. 81. 5. Rings by Wempe, Kurfürstendamm 215 and Friedrichstr. 81. 6. Happy Dreams Necklace by Chopard, Chopard Boutiques Berlin, Kurfürstendamm 54 and KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. 7. Ring by APM Monaco, Kurfürstendamm 217.
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Chopard Boutiques Berlin Kurfürstendamm 54 · Tel. +49 (0) 30 - 700 969 80 e-Mail: boutique.berlin@chopard.de
HAPPY DIAMONDS
KaDeWe · Tauentzienstraße 21-24 · Tel. +49 (0) 30 - 2060 398 30 e-Mail: boutique.kadewe-berlin@chopard.de www.chopard.com
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SHOPPING
KRIGLER
better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3
Parfümeur seit 1904
Krigler, perfumer on Unter den Linden since 1904, is also known as the perfumer of the Hotel Adlon.
Fashion Barbour & Barbour Heritage Store Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look. Customers can also enjoy a shopping break with tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield sofas upstairs. www. barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a.T: 030.88001773. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 030.23456828. U Weinmeister Straße. F2
Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
“The history of Krigler is filled with passion, intrigue and secrets. His devotees have included John F. Kennedy, Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly...” Vanity Fair, Hollywood issue
Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4
DISCOVER THE COLLECTION AT: KRIGLER, Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77, 10117 Berlin Mon-Sun: 11am-8pm | T: +49 30 80494144 | www.krigler.eu
ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com. Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
yve sde lorm eparis.c om
BOSS
BERLIN - Kurfürstendamm 51
The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3
By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2 26 W H E R E B E R L I n I D E C E M B E R 2016 YVES_DELORME_AP_WHERE_BERLIN_118X124.indd 1
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Creations for the Audrey Hepburns of our time
Autumn/Winter 2016 Figure-chilling cuts, clear forms and soft-falling fabrics are the attributes of the Ellen Eisemann creations. Complex jacquard dresses and flowing jerseys with exciting prints are the core pieces of every collection. Fine details, precise fits and a high wearing-comfort characterise each design. The inspiration source for Ellen Eisemanns feminine creations are the 60s. A tribute to the Audrey Hepburns of our time with a huge focus on pure femininity. The collection is available throughout Europe in selected stores and boutiques. Come and discover the world of Ellen Eisemann.
www.ellen-eisemann.com
photo: Nancy Warnke
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SHOPPING Ganni Berlin
The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-towear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni.com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode. de. Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4
Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home accessories, to name just a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16. T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4
Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3
Nehls have filled their store with beautiful clothes for that special occasions, and also business attire and casual outfits. www.meyerundnehls.de. Bleibtreustr. 13. T: 030 88678578. S Savignyplatz. B4
Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, beloved by celebrities. Comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3
Shops are usually closed on Sundays, but there are two exceptions this month on 4 and 18 December.
MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte. E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Meyer & Nehls This intimate boutique is geared towards selfconfident, independent women who appreciate good fashion advice and prefer to steer clear of the “off-the-shelf” look. Owners Lars and Frank
Eat Up Edible souvenirs always make great gifts for our friends back home, and the Eat Berlin shop inside the Hackescher Höfe specializes in fine foods made exclusively by Berlin manufacturers. The quality sauces, spices, spreads, drinks, and other goodies are not only delicious, they also come in attractive packaging that make them perfect for gift-giving. Take home the Original Berliner Senfsauce mustard, or the Alexander Plätzchen do-it-yourself cookies. If you’ve become hooked on the Currywurst, Berlin's street food staple, you can buy a Currywurst Maker, while the Cookomania Bacon Jam is a delicious lard spread for an energizing breakfast. Try the Trink Apfelstrudel apple and cinnamon liquor, or get a jar of Berliner Honig, made by the city’s very own bees. And for someone very special there's the handmade Superior Gold Dressing (photo) finished with 22-carat gold leaf. Hackesche Höfe, Hof 7, Rosenthaler Str. 40. T: 030 52283260. www.eatberlinstore.de
Patrick Hellmann
Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4
Planet Berlin Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717. S Savignyplatz. B4
Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www. trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Twin-Set Italian designer Simona Barbieri began her career in the 1990s focusing her activity on knitwear and female clothing, but soon after expanded her collection to add bags, lingerie, beachwear, and shoes. Today, Twin-Set is known internationally for its style, which is both elegant and feminine. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.22152081. U Mohrenstraße. E3
UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www.uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3
Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and
eat berlin, © milena schlösser.
Cotélac
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SHOPPING international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3
SHOES & ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes. www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4
bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T:030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors. com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2
MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
New Era Flagship Store Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. There are more than 1000 styles over two
floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater and hip hop crowd. www. neweracap.com. An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030.27890578. S Hackescher Markt. F2
Volker Lang The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and other accessories loved by their owners for years and beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37. T: 030.284937004. www.volker-lang-accessoires.de. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
JEWELRY & WATCHES Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles. An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Chopard Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com. Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
ADVERTORIAL
Deck The Halls Nothing like some Santas here and there to remind us that it's Christmas. For that, there's French design emporium Pylones. This month, their wide selection of stationery, kitchenware, toys, gift ideas, and such practical necessities as key rings and phone cases has been enriched with a Santa line, featuring Christmas-themed funnels, umbrellas, whisks, and cheese graters that will brighten up your festivities. www.pylones.com. Schloßstr. 32/32a. T: 030 92357108. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Kurfürstendamm 225. T: 030 92362488. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3. T: 030 80928130. Daily 10am-9pm.
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Lalic Schmuck This family-run jewelry store near Savignyplatz prides itself on having been the first jewelry gallery in Germany. All pieces are carefully selected by owner and expert Maren Meyee-Ringe, who only picks the best handmade items from more than 30 famous goldsmiths and designers. www.lalic-schmuckgalerie.de. Bleibtreustr. 47. T: 030.8819762. E3
ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2
Wempe One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe. de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. U Französische Straße. E3
Home Décor Home on Earth Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this store offers home décor items made from natural materials combined with Scandinavian design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. S Hackescher Markt F2
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Promobo Many of the fun offbeat, eye-catching design objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts are made by hand in small workshops around Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de. Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. S Hackescher Markt. F2
Pylones These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
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Yves Delorme Add a Parisian touch to your home with a brandnew set of linens by Yves Delorme, specializing in fine textiles since 1845. The collection includes bed and bath lines as well as exquisite tableware and baby items for the everyday and special occasion alike. www.yvesdelormeparis.com. Kurfürstendamm 51. T: 030.88724777. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Manufactum Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www.manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3
MIX ALL MUSIC TO START A PARTY! Just plug in your MP3 player, laptop or Bluetooth® transmitter. STORE: SCHÖNHAUSER ALLEE 44A, 10435 BERLIN
POKKETMIXER.COM
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Books & Music Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus Germany’s biggest selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction, kids’ books, and audio books. With over two levels of wall-to-wall books, DVDs, and CDs, all genres are covered. Mon-Sat until midnight. Friedrichstr. 90. T: 030.20251111. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Shakespeare and Sons After spending 10 years selling English and French books in the Czech Republic, this cute little store has expanded to Berlin, with an impressive range of Eastern European literature available in English translations. www.shakesbooks.de. Raumerstr. 36. T: 030.40003685. U Eberswalder Straße. F1; Warschauerstr. 74. T: 030.40003685. S+U Warschauer Straße. G4
BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3
Catherine Nail Salon The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475. U Uhlandstraße. E3
with everything needed for the perfect wet shave, like beautiful razors with chrome or tortoiseshell handles and soap brushes with soft badger bristles. www.muehle-shaving.com. Rosenthaler Str. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe IV. T: 030 60269429. S Hackescher Markt. E3
Parfumsalon An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all hand-picked by owner and perfume expert Mario Worms. www.parfumsalon.de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030.8827306. E3
halls and samples from vendors. Mon-Fri 8am8pm, Sat 8am-6pm. www.meine-markthalle.de. Marheinekeplatz 15 T: 030.61286146. U Gneisenaustraße. E5
Markthalle Neun
One of only three historic market halls remaining in Berlin, the 1891 building has undergone a revival in recent years, now hosting a farmers’ market (Fri–Sat 10am–6pm). See website for other foodie events, such as the popular Street Food Kurfürstendamm has Thursdays. www.markthalle9.de. been likened to Paris's Eisenbahnstr. 42-43 Champs- Élysées for its T: 030.577094661. U Görlitzer cafés and couture. Bahnhof. G4
FOOD & Gourmet Fassbender & Rausch Berlin’s undisputed temple of confections features the world's longest chocolate counter and eyepopping sculptures, such as a model Reichstag made from 300kg (660lb) of dark chocolate. www.fassbender-rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3
Marheineke Markthalle One of the main market halls over 100 years ago continues to be a culinary highlight, with exquisitequality provisions, many produced organically and regionally. Rounding off the epicurean offerings are crafts, art exhibitions, and guided culinary tours that include a history of the city’s market
Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt The company store teaches about the process of chocolate production through an interactive exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de. Französische Str. 24 T: 030.20095080. U Französische Straße. E3
Winterfeldt Schokoladen The chocolate shop/café's gorgeous wooden interior dates back to 1892, when the space was still a pharmacy. Sample gourmet hot chocolates and stock up on chocolates from around the globe. Daily B&L. www.winterfeldt-schokoladen. de. Goltzstr. 23 T: 030.23623256. U Nollendorfplatz, U Eisenacher Straße. D4
Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4
Harry Lehmann The grandson of this perfume shop’s founder continues an 80-year-long family tradition, mixing perfume from a spectrum of 50 scents. www.parfum-individual.de. Kantstr. 106. T: 030.3243582. U Wilmersdorfer Straße, S Charlottenburg. C4
Krigler Founded in 1904, Krigler was born out of the desire to create unique luxury fragrances made with the finest ingredients from around the world. From 1905, Krigler’s original shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s legendary music scene and the fragrances were appreciated by celebrities such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. www.krigler.eu. Adlon Hotel. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030 80494144. S Brandenburger Tor. E3
Liquidrom Treat yourself to a blissful evening with an outdoor spa, a thermal bath with mood lighting and underwater music, and five different saunas. Best of all are the infusions, which take place in the Finnish sauna on the hour, or the honeyand-salt body scrubs. www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Möckernstr. 10. T: 030.258007820. U Möckernbrücke. E4
Mühle Traditional shaving culture for the modern gentleman. MÜHLE is a classic German brand
Keep The Luxury Rolling In the digital world we live in, there's nothing as traditionally luxurious and classy as a beautiful, Swiss-made wristwatch. With its technical perfection and timeless appeal, Rolex represents more than a century of watchmaking excellence. The company has pioneered the development of wristwatches since 1905, setting milestones in timepiece history. One of their major successes was the creation of the first waterproof case, the Oyster, still featured as one of their lines today. Discover the range of materials, bezels, dials, and bracelets at the Rolex Boutique, and rest assured that each component has been designed, developed, and manufactured to meet the most stringent requirements in watchmaking. Rolex Boutique, Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010. Email: rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de
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SENSUALS
STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 / 13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95
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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®
Berlin
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latz Savignyp
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ROLEX BOUTIQUE
PARFUMSALON
UNIQLO
More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.
This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstraße 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de
High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters. Tauentzienstr. 7B/C. T: 030 29028260 www.uniqlo.com/de
Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de 34 W H E R E B E R L I N I d e c E M B E R 2016
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Your beloved ones will be amazed
Extraordinary gifts and berlin‘s most exclusive wrapping Station AT BIKINI BERLIN
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BODO DILG GOLDSCHMIEDE
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A master in his field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of stucco and cement tiles. A stop for soon to wed partners, nestled between the Savignyplatz and luxury-shopping strip Ku'damm.
Catherine Berlin is a hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics. This nail salon hinges upon expert beauticians and products from Catherine Nail Collection. Founded in Germany almost 35 years ago by Ingeborg Frimmel and named after her daughter, the brand is renowned worldwide.
Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355 www.bodo-dilg.de
Knesebeckstr. 35-37. T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de
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BEATRICE VON TRESCKOW
CATHERINE BERLIN
Beatrice creates opulent, bold and colorful clothes for women who like to turn heads. Sumptuous fabrics and detailed embroidery communicate Beatrice's international upbringing and form the hallmarks of the collections' jackets, blouses and dresses.
Leibnizstr. 60 T: 03030831810 www.beatricevontresckow.com
SAVIGNYPLATZ STR.
BISMARCK
Ernst-Reuter-Platz
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Berlingold M NDAM RSTE Ü F R KU
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Planet Berlin
Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933 www.goldsteg.de shop stop
FiNNs Mode
STRASSE Rahaus Living Margulies Jeannette Junior ROCKS & ROCKS Loewe Galerie Berlin HYGGE INTERIØR VINI CULTURE Goldschmiede Bodo Dilg
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stilwerk Berlin
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A real treasure trove for exquisite individual fashion pieces, exciting accessories, and high-quality Italian leather bags for women. You'll find different styles and many different designer brands in a wide price range. Enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and friendly reception. Credit cards accepted and Tax Free possible.
Schuhtick Savignyplatz Anamel Fashion
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PLANET BERLIN
FINNS MODE
LALIC SCHMUCK
Set yourself apart from the crowd with fashion and accessories from Planet Berlin, described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll." They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr Marten's, as well as new labels like le temps des cerises, whose male and female jeans have already achieved cult status. Get ready for your next glamorous night of clubbing.
Looking to express your individual style? Since 2003, FINNs Mode has been offering women an ample selection of fashion items with a statement, stocking a variety of Italian brands such as Piazza Sempione, Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more. From dresses and skirts to bags and shoes, the items are picked for women "who like to dress well".
This splendid family-run jewelry store prides itself on having been the first jewelry gallery in Germany. Each piece on display is carefully selected by owner Maren Meyer-Ringe, who chooses only handmade and premium-quality items from 30 well-known goldsmiths and designers.
Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717
Bleibtreustr. 47. www.finns-mode.de
Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030 8819762 www.lalic-schmuckgalerie.de
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FriedrichstraSSe
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JOH AN NIS STR .
Friedrichstadt-Palast
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AllSaints Superdry
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Gerry Weber
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Annette Görtz Store Berlin
Französische Straße
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COS Massimo Dutti Wempe Montblanc BABOR
BOSS Maurice Lacroix
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KPM Berlin LACOSTE
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Gucci Galeries Lafayette
Quartier 206 Umasan
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Marina Rinaldi Thomas Sabo MaxMara
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Gendarmenmarkt
The Q.
Stefanel
MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén
Comptoir des Cotonniers
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Checkpoint Charlie Frau Tonis Parfum
Manufacturing clothing purely from organically grown natural fibers, founding twin sisters Anja and Sandra apply the highest standards of innovation and sustainability when creating their designs. The focus is on timeless beauty and the art of Japanese cutting, combining flattering silhouettes with precise lines. Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 24085534 www.umasan-berlin.com shop stop
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This perfume house was created in 1904 to provide unique luxury fragrances made with the finest ingredients. In 1905, Krigler’s shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s Weimar era, and early fans of Krigler perfumes included celebrities, such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. Hotel Adlon, Unter den Linden 77. T: 030 80494144 www.krigler.eu
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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most beautiful perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Marlene Dietrich’s favorite perfume, Pure Violet. Join other fragrance aficionados from all over the world, and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 37
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COS Deichmann Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren DESIGUAL Dogo Shoes Einblick Optik EPL Diamond Esprit Eterna FALKE FASHION CLUB Fast Forward Foot Locker Fossil French Connection Frisco Jeans G-Star Raw GANT GINA TRICOT GUESS H&M
Fashion & Accessories 7 FOR ALL
BREE
MANKIND
C&A
adidas Neo
CALZEDONIA
Airfield
Casano
Almano -
CHRIST
Ledermanufaktur
CINQUE
ARMANI JEANS
Claire’s
Backlash
Clarks Ecco
Bershka
Coco California
BIJOU BRIGITTE
Codello
BIMBA Y LOLA
Cordon Berlin
HALLHUBER Hollister HUGO BOSS Hunkemöller Intersport INTIMISSIMI Jack & Jones JD Sports KARL LAGERFELD Kingz Konplott LACOSTE LAURÈL Levi’s LIEBESKIND Lief! Liu Jo LLOYD Look 54 MANGO MARC CAIN Marc O’Polo
MASSIMO DUTTI Mavi MAX & CO. Mephisto MEXX Muji NAVYBOOT Nike Oakley Odlo Olymp One Green Elephant PANDORA Passionata PATRIZIA PEPE Peek & Cloppenburg Pepe Jeans René Lezard Reno Replay Rich & Royal
Runners Point S & D sons and daughters Salamander Sarar Schiesser Schiesser Uncover SCHMUCKRAUSCH Schuh Bode SHOE CITY Shoe Connect Shok Sidestep SNIPES Sportalm Kitzbühel SPORTSCHECK Street Shoes STRELLSON STRENESSE STYLE MODE Sunglass Hut SWAROVSKI
Taschenparadies THOMAS SABO Tom Tailor TOMMY HILFIGER Trigema Triumph TWIN-SET UN1DEUX2TROIS3 Undiz Uniqlo Vans VERO MODA WE-Fashion Wigglesteps WORMLAND ZARA ZERO ...and more.
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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®
Berlin
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SIZING GUIDE SHOES US
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CLOTHES Euro
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WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8
5 6 7 8 9 10
8 9 10 11 12 13
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Yves Delorme Boutique Kurfürstendamm 51
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CHILDREN 7 8 9 10 11 12
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MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12
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34 36 38 40 42 44
44 46 48 50 52 54
CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5
4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15
4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13
110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170
sun sho day ppin g De
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Arkaden Shops open from Mon-Sat, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE
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SHOP STOP
SHOP STOP
COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics. With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Fall-Winter 2016 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.
Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr
DESIGNER DEPOT Since 2002, this fashion outlet boutique has been offering high class fashion and accessories from major international labels at up to 50% off the original price. Check out their selection, which ranges from unique pieces to dressy garments. Tax Free available.
Rochstrasse 2. T: 030 28046700 www.facebook.com/ddmitte www.designer-depot.net SHOP STOP
HACKESCHER MARKT AND MITTE
TORSTRASSE
Modomoto Atelier Einhundert
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Rosenthaler Platz TORS
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No 74
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Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 9. T: 030 28098565 www.aninebing.com
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Fashion fans rejoice: Germany’s first and only Anine Bing store is now open in Berlin Mitte. A former model turned designer, Anine Bing combines Scandinavian chic with laid-back L.A. flair. Visit the Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. boutique for brand highlights like perfectly fitting skinny jeans, leather jackets, cool boots, and much more.
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Lala Berlin Rosa-Luxemburg Platz Wolfen Germany Boutique Ganni Berlin MULA RASSE VOLK T S T S ER LA CKSTR Cotélac AUGU Greta NG S ASSE tore & Luis Ka STE tje INS Trippen TRA sC SSE afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka L REBECCA HIRT Be ieb Oh SOP ENS Bimba y Lola n S es r HIE TRA he kin NST SSE Weinmeisterstr. r d m Freitag RAS 11 a n SE Trüffelschwein Ma Wrangler vi Oakley Promobo Porsche Design Blush Lingerie MÜ Michael Kors NZ MÜHLE Store Berlin A MCM did STRAS Strellson Gretchen Store W SE as Anine Bing B Dr IK ee Home on earth UG uffa ykor KS kda designer depot n y UNG Pop lo Hackesche Höfe IQ -up Boots & Shoes LO Mykita Volution Sports KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store
SHOP STOP
MÜHLE STORE BERLIN Bringing traditional shaving culture to the modern man, german manufacturer MÜHLE offers a wide range of traditional shaving accessories: beautiful razors and shaving brushes, soaps, cremes and skin care products. Get a haircut or enjoy a straight razor shave at the elegant barbershop.
Rosenthaler Str. 40-41, Hackesche Höfe IV. T: 030 60269429. muehle-shaving.com
UNIQLO High-quality wardrobe essentials for the whole family can be found at this Japanese fashion chain that has taken the world by storm. Deftly marrying fashion with practicality, UNIQLO is especially known for its innovative fabrics and luxurious yet affordable cashmere sweaters. Mon-Sat 10am to 9pm. Rosenthaler Str. 42 www.uniqlo.com/de
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LUXURY Brands TRÜFFELSCHWEIN The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed. He simply looks better than everybody else. Trüffelschwein carries a seletion of handpicked niche brands from Europe and beyond, featuring a dynamic mix of craftsmanship and modern aesthetics. Brands include YMC, Hansen and Universal Works.
Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030 70221225 www.trueffelschweinberlin.com shop stop
AIGNER
DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER
www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4
www.dorothee-schumacher.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 20946099. U Französische Straße. E3
BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3
BOTTEGA VENETA www.bottegaveneta.com. Kurfürstendamm 59-60. T: 030.70550770. U Adenauerplatz. B4
BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4
BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4
EMPORIO ARMANI
UGG Pop-up Store Nothing keeps feet cozier and warmer on cold winter days than a pair of UGG shoes, the soft sheepskin shoes from California that have earned a cult following around the world. Until the end of February, visit the UGG pop-up store on Rosenthaler Straße for classic UGG shoes plus the latest from the brand’s footwear, clothing and accessories lines.
www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3
CHOPARD www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4
DOLCE & GABBANA www.dolcegabbana.com. Kurfürstendamm 187. T: 030 33096590. U Adenauerplatz. B4
ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4
ETRO www.etro.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946120. U Französische Straße. E3
MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3
MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2
PAL ZILERI www.palzileri.com. Kurfürstendamm 175-176. T: 030.88910700. U Adenauerplatz. B4
PRADA www.prada.com. Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.887110840. U Adenauerplatz. B4
ROLEX www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4
WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Rosenthaler Str. 43. www.ugg.com/de shop stop
IMAGE © ISTOCK
ONEPIECE Popular Norwegian apparel brand Onepiece has become globally recognized in large part due to their celebrity-adored and very comfortable jumpsuits. In the shop you will find a huge variety of perfect Christmas gifts: Onesies, pants, hoodies, jackets and much more.
Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030 27580644 www.onepiece.com
Luxury mall Quartier 206 on Friedrichstraße.
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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE
Museums For All Ages Annabelle Mallia seeks out entertainment for the kids so she can appreciate the arts. Berlin is said to have more museums than rainy days. With kids in tow, however, it’s difficult to even get through a handful. Luckily for us, Berlin’s kid-friendly nature, combined with its generous investment in the arts, means there are plenty of activities in museums to keep everybody happy. If you’re a design fan, you’re sure to have heard of Bauhaus, the influential school of architecture, design, and art that emerged in Germany in the 1920s. Its students broke away from the tradition of fine arts and developed their style using simple geometric shapes and primary colors, creating products that could be easily massproduced. The Bauhaus Archiv (p. 49) has a collection of items stemming from the school, and every Saturday this month until 17 December they will be holding their Bauhaus Lab, where kids can engage with varying themes of design in hands-on workshops, encompassing everything from weaving to building miniature houses. The workshops are
completely free and registration is not required, but do arrive punctually at 11am to secure a spot. The Atelier Bunter Jakob inside the Berlinische Galerie (p. 52) provides space for little ones to be creative. Every Wednesday until 21 December you can join their Offenes Atelier, where experienced artists guide drawing, painting, printing, or collage activities.
Nearby, the Jewish Museum (p. 50) has what they call the "Children’s Island,” displaying objects from different areas of Jewish life, together with touch-and-feel boxes, a giant puzzle, and drawing tables. For the slightly older children, the Rafael Roth Learning Center has an interactive computer game called Sansanvi’s Park, teaching them more about Judaism. And just in time for Hanukkah, you can sign up for the reading and hobbyhorse-handcrafting workshop on 11 December. One-day workshops for families are also on offer at museums such as the Gemäldegalerie (p. 53) and Altes Museum (p. 49) and the Martin-Gropius-Bau (p. 50). At the German Historical Museum (p. 49) English-speaking youngsters can pick up an explorer bag from the information desk and set off on a journey through the 17th and 18th centuries, discovering paintings, body armor, machines, paintings, model ships and maps by completing various assignments. Happy kids make happy parents!
martin-gropius-bau activities: courtesy of martin-gropius-bau; Familien mit dem HERAKLES-Magazin in der Rotunde des Alten MuseumsFoto: © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Altes Museum / Valerie Schmidt, 2016; Zwei Jungen spielen mit dem HERAKLES-Magazin eine antike Theaterszene nach Foto: © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Altes Museum / Valerie Schmidt, 2016
Kids' activities at the Altes Museum and Martin-Gropius-Bau.
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SIGHTSEEING Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4
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Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born, and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Panoramapunkt am Potsdamer Platz
Madame Tussauds Berlin The wax figures of ALL SIX James Bonds are now to be seen at Madame Tussauds Berlin. But watch out! Sean Connery, George Lazenby, Roger Moore, Timothy Dalton, Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig will appear at the legendary waxworks attraction Madame Tussauds Berlin only until the end of December, before they embark on their next journey to another one of the Madame Tussauds attractions around the world. Each of these new figures is featured in a classic 007 dinner suit and guests are invited to take a stand out profile picture with our Bonds. So be quick and take this unique, last chance to secure your tickets for a meet-and-greet with your favorite 007. Ask your reception team for tickets, including priority entry, or save time by booking online at MadameTussauds.com/Berlin. Madame Tussauds Berlin, Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor
Major Sights The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3
Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-CharlottePlatz. A3
Hackesche Höfe
In 20 seconds, an elevator whisks you to the top of a 100m-high platform with one of the best views in Berlin. Visitors can enjoy drinks and cake at the café, with the city’s skyline as a backdrop. Daily 10am–8pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). €6.50/5. www.panoramapunkt.de. Kolhoff Tower, Potsdamer Platz 1. S Potsdamer Platz. D3
Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola
MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www. Berlin is not only the largest bundestag.de. Platz der Republik city in Germany: It is also the 1. T: 030.22732152. U greenest, with almost 32 Bundestag. D3/E3 percent of the city surface
An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early19th-century German Secessionist covered in forest style. The first courtyard is entirely Siegessäule (Victory and water. decorated with glazed blue-andColumn) white tiles in geometric designs, while The triumphal column on the Straße the apartment buildings and narrow, der 17. Juni, in the middle of Tiergarten maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and park, commemorates victory in the Prusso-Danish theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar war, while the angel on top was added after two and fascinating. further war victories against Austria and France. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. Daily 9:30am–6:30pm (weekends until 7pm); winter S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2 10am–5pm (weekends until 5:30pm). €3/2. Großer Stern 1. T: 030.3912961. U Hansaplatz. C3/D3
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche
The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and
Historic Sites Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin,
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SIGHTSEEING presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4
Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2
Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4
East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the
artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Karl-Marx-Allee Berlin’s best example of GDR-era Neorealist architecture is a 90m- (295ft-)wide boulevard built between 1950 and 1960 to provide housing for thousands of residents and to act as a backdrop for military parades. The street quickly became a source of national pride for East Germany, due to its residential tower blocks inspired by Moscow and by Stalin’s ideal style: nationalistic in form but socialist in content. The boulevard is an important architectural showcase. U Weberwiese, Strausberger Platz. F3/G3
Stasi Prison MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi
(secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while the relatively more humane cells are on the upper floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. en. stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Allee, then Tram M5 to Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute walk. Off Map
Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www. topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4
Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) Until 1990, the departure hall of the Friedrichstraße station was also a border crossing for West Berliners on their way home after visiting relatives and friends in the East. The many painful farewells brought locals to rename the building the “palace of tears.” Tue–Fri 9am–7pm (Sat–Sun until 6pm). Free. www.hdg.de. Reichstagufer 17. T: 030.46777790. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
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SIGHTSEEING
Kids & Families
Potsdam
Berlin Dungeon
Biosphäre Potsdam
Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3
This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-Halemann-Allee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map
Berlin Zoo and Aquarium MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Botanischer Garten This large park was designed in the Romantic English style, with hills, lakes, and pretty greenhouses. There is a palm house and a whole section dedicated to exotic plants, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. Daily 9am–ca. one hour before sunset. Museum closes at 6pm. €6/3. www.bgbm.org. Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8. T: 030.83850100. S Botanischer Garten. Off Map
Sanssouci
exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.
Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours)
Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s The city reached its highest underground fortress, escape population in 1942. routes to the West, and WWII At that time, 4,478,102 bunkers are just some of the people lived in Berlin. adventures on offer. From €10. Today, there are 3.5 www.berliner-unterwelten.de. million. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.
MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map
Tours & GUIDED Walks Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to
CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlinways.de.T: 030.26321381.
Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www.trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030.
Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4
Madame Tussauds Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted as a little man standing in despair in his bunker during his final days. Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). €23.50/18.50, discounts if you book online. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
From Atari To Zaxxon Those who think museums are boring have never been to the Computer Games Museum, a hands-on exploration of the world of digital entertainment. All the incarnations of games throughout the decades are here, starting from the early arcade games of the 1960s, to the explosion of home-computer titles that proliferated during the 1980s. Grown-ups will enjoy the nostalgia, while the younger set will marvel at the clunky, 8-bit graphics that were the precursor to today’s Wiis and Xboxes. Museum highlights include Nimrod, the giant 1951 machine known as the first computer game in history, as well as classics such as Pong, and a first-generation 3D simulator from 1994. There’s even a working version of Poly-Play, the only video game produced in East Germany. Karl-Marx-Allee 93A. T: 030 60988577. www.computerspielemuseum.de
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An Enchanting Christmas Season at Sony Center Fascinating dance show Ć– Amazing light fairies Thousands of sapphire and golden sparkles Enjoy a fabulous Christmas season!
www.sonycenter.de/en
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE
Clockwise from left: A poster from the Bauhaus period; the legendary Volkswagen "Beetle"; Ernst Barlach's angel; an early car model. Inset, below: Bauhaus design.
History As Told By Things The timeline of German history is a long list of events, some tragic and some glorious, that have shaped the history of Europe. Episodes such as the birth of Protestantism, the great achievements of literature and philosophy, Germany's contribution to science, as well as the Berlin Wall and the horrors of the Holocaust, have contributed to the collective memory not only of a country, but of its continent as a whole. The exhibition The British View: Germany – Memories of a Nation, on until 9 Jan at Martin-Gropius-Bau (p. 50), showcases 200 objects belonging to London's British Museum, offering a unique perspective on 600 years of German history. With objects allowed to speak for themselves, the exhibition offers a digestible historic representation for beginners as well as a new, unusual approach experts will enjoy. One of the most interesting objects on show is an astrolabe from 1596, proof of the
high standards of German craftsmanship in gold manufacturing and of the scientific progress of the time. Nearby, Albrecht Dürer's famous rhinoceros woodcut from 1515, displayed together with its threedimensional, porcelain reproduction made by Johann Gottlieb Kirchner in 1730, recounts the stories of two worldchanging inventions: modern printing, first introduced in the 1430s by Johannes Gutenberg, and porcelain, redeveloped in the 18th century in Meissen after centuries of attempts to recreate the secret Chinese formula. Bauhaus furniture and posters outline the ideals of the Weimar-born artistic and architectural movement, explaining its focus on function and simplicity, while the
world-renowned success of the German automotive industry is displayed through specimens of some of the world's first engines and German car models, such as the popular Volkswagen "Beetle." The two world wars are also portrayed extensively: A bronze angel with folded wings and closed eyes by Ernst Barlach symbolizes the sorrow and losses of the First World War, while a woodcut by Käthe Kollwitz, who lost her son in the war in October 1914, represents the pain of all grieving mothers. To express the horrors of the totalitarian Nazi regime, the curators chose photographs of the Buchenwald concentration camp, together with art and documents that reveal the philosophy, but also the fragility, of the Nazi ideals.
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF MARTIN GROPIUS BAU, THE BRITISH VIEW. NEXT PAGE: THE GOLEM: SOUVENIRFIGUR, COURTESY OF THE JEWISH MUSEUM.
Some objects have a lot to say. Solveig Steinhardt examines 200 storied artifacts at Martin-Gropius-Bau.
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MUSEUMS
Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To Jun 2017: Dangerous Perfection: Antique grave-vases from Apulia. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3 A splendorous collection of 19thcentury art. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Bauhaus Archiv
Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 8 Jan: Exotic Worlds. Cacti and Flowering Plants features Emil Nolde and Karl Schmidt-Rottluff’s rarely-shown paintings of nature from around the world. To 8 Jan: Berlin has more Ways of Expressionism. Paintings museums (180) than and Graphics of Artist Group Die rainy days (106). Brücke. Selected works from Die Brücke artists, including works by Max Pechstein and Erich Heckel. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map
The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 27 Feb: The Frankfurt Art School – Modernism on the Main. A focus on the down-toearth and practical variety of Bauhaus-influenced works. To 27 Feb: Lucia Moholy – The English Years. Presenting Moholy’s landscape and architectural photography work. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 22 Jan: Canova and the Dance. Sculptures centering on the motif of dance. To 31 Dec: ONE GOD – Abraham’s Legacy on the Nile. Jews, Christians, and Muslims in Egypt from Antiquity until the Middle Ages. To 27 May: Art Coins Money: MUSE POWER MONEY examines the interaction between art, money, and power. Tue–Fri 10am– 6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
SOUVENIRFIGUR, COURTESY OF THE JEWISH MUSEUM.
Bröhan Museum
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open daily:
(24th December closed)
Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7
DDR Museum Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3
2,80€)
Mon - Sun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. July + August 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.
Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial
Alte Nationalgalerie
Brücke Museum
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until January, 31st 2017.
With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.
www.daliberlin.de
Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 31 Dec: Focus Königgrätz. A deconstruction the decisive battle between Prussia and Austria. To 26 Feb: Cameroon and Congo – a search of traces and phantom photography from Andréas Lang To 14 May: German colonialism, Fragments of Its Past and Present confronts the controversial topic of Germany’s colonial past. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
For Explorers!
Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things
technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www. sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4
Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 8 Jan: Martin Brandenburg and Hans Baluschek – A The Gay Museum Friendship of Two Artists follows (Schwules Museum) the friendship of two Berlin One of the world’s largest and artists with diverging styles who most significant institutions were the early vanguard of the for archiving, researching, and Berlin Secession. To 29 Jan: Do communicating the history and It Yourself-Design examines the This month, the Jewish Museum culture of LGBTQ communities. historical development of DIY design, which was born during (p. 50) presents the mystical figure Changing exhibitions take of the Golem in art and literature. diverse approaches to lesbian, the art nouveau period. Open
Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | www.sdtb.de /deutschestechnikmuseum
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Martin-Gropius-Bau Berliner Festspiele gay, transsexual, bisexual, and queer biographies and concepts in history, art, and culture. To 20 Nov: Am I Dandy? Instructions on how to lead an extravagant life explores the wide varieties of what and who a dandy is. To 30 Jan: “So, It’s a Girl”: Homage to Erika and Klaus Mann. A focus on the two eldest Mann siblings whose lives and creative works led them everywhere in the western hemisphere. Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. www.schwulesmuseum. de. Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. To 29 Jan: GOLEM presents the figure found in Jewish mysticism in its iterations in art and literature, questioning what it means to be human. To 5 Mar: A Muslim, a Christian and a Jew. Artist Eran Shakine depicts the trio in humorous everyday settings while underscoring their similar hopes and dreams. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4
Omer Fast »Talking is not always the solution« 18.11.2016 – 12.3.2017
Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Wed–Mon, 10am – 7pm Closed on Tue Open on holidays, closed 24.12. and 31.12
www.gropiusbau.de
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1976—86
Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the 07.11.16 15:36
Great Elector and works dating back to medieval times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am– 6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Martin-Gropius-Bau
MUSEUM FOLKWANG DAS REBELLISCHE BILD 09/12/2016—19/02/2017 C/O BERLIN KREUZBERG—AMERIKA 10/12/2016—12/02/2017 SPRENGEL MUSEUM HANNOVER UND PLÖTZLICH DIESE WEITE 11/12/2016—19/03/2017
MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and photography exhibition spaces and an important example of early 20th-century architecture, the imposing building combines Italian Renaissance elements with local features, such as mosaics of allegorical figures. From 9 Dec: Robert Doisneau – Photographs. To 8 Jan: +ultra. knowledge & gestaltung explores the merging boundaries of reality and simulation. To 9 Jan: The British View: Germany – Memories of a Nation. To 15 Jan: Building with Timber – Paths into the Future. A presentation on modern architecture made of this renewable resource. To 12 Mar: Omer Fast: Talking Is Not Always the Solution. Presenting seven of Fast’s works, which question the boundary between an experiencer’s account and the media, fact and fiction. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4
Museum Berggruen Supported by
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MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh,
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LOVE Is All Around Berlin is in LOVE! Or is LOVE in Berlin? The iconic steel Pop Art sculpture by Robert Indiana has made its way to the capital and is here to stay. Following a grand unveiling in mid-September this year, Indiana’s ubiquitous Imperial Love sculpture now greets all Hamburger Bahnhof (p. 53) visitors. Described by the artist as the visual representation of a “one-word poem,” the original 1964 design consisted of the letters L and O over V and E, forming a brilliantly simple and bold red square. Imperial Love takes the original design a step further with a mirrored half. The conciseness of Imperial Love encapsulates visual art, popular culture, religion, and politics, so no matter where the admirer stands, the message of love shines through. Cézanne, and many more. To 12 Mar: George Condo. Confrontation. A retrospective of the American painter’s oeuvre. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Museum of Asian Art The important collection of East Asian and Indian works includes fabulous lacquered objects, ceramics, Japanese paintings, and a section on art along the Silk Road.To 8 Jan: In the Autumn of the Tradition: Rinpa Painting. Examines the interactions between Rinpa painters, European collectors, and publications. To 8 Jan: Chrysanthemums, Autumn Leaves and Snow is a seasonal exhibition of selected works telling the story of autumn transitioning to winter. To 8 Jan: Torii Rei: Ise. A fifteen-painting presentation of the city of Ise and the Ise Shinto shrine complex. To 8 Jan: The Ruins of Koco: Traces of Wooden Architecture from the Ancient Silk Road. A presentation of the ancient architectural traces found in the Xinjiang Autonomous Region in China Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €8/4. www.smb.museum. Arnimallee 25. T: 030.266424242.
Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 8 Jan: Bernard Larsson. Leaving is Entering. Photographs 1961-1988. Works from the German-born photographer function as a visual record of the most pivotal moments in Berlin history. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb. museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4
Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2
Museum Story of Berlin
Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 2 Apr: The Legacy of the Ancient Kings. Ctesiphon and the Persian Sources of Islamic Art. An exhibition tracing the origins of Islamic art and cultural heritage. www. smb.museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3
Stasi Museum The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map
Art galleries
Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3
Berlinische Galerie
A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 24 Apr: Cornelia Schleime – A Blink explores this year’s Hannah-Höch-Preis winner, whose dissident work in the GDR The Stasi Museum in days resulted in her getting Lichtenberg showcases banned from East Berlin. To some of the spying 24 Apr: Tatjana Doll – New World instruments used by Atlas presents the Hannah-Höchthe East German Förderpreis winner’s large-scale secret police. work that question phenomena in mass culture. To 2 Jan: 12×12. Each year, the IBB Video Space features 12 innovative film and video artists in Berlin. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 Neues Museum (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie. MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4 world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www. era. To 4 Dec: Gordon Parks. I am you. Selected Works. neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. 1934-1978. With his weapon of choice, Parks used S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 his camera to capture injustice and the fight for Pergamon Museum equal rights. To 4 Dec: Adam Broomberg & Oliver One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon Chanarin. Don’t Start With the Good Old Things But the houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thBad New Ones. A Brechtian approach to century archeology excavations. The imposing documentary photography. From 10 Dec:
Almost 800 years of Berlin history arranged into 23 rooms, each describing a different theme or era and an atomic bunker for visitors to better understand the WWII air raid experience. An entertaining way to learn about the development of the city. Open daily 10am–8pm. €12/5. www.story-of-berlin.de. Kurfürstendamm 208. T: 030.88720100. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Robert Indiana: Imperial Love, 1966/2006 | Cortenstahl, 244 x 488 x 152 cm (ohne Sockel) | Donation of the Morgan Art Foundation to the Verein der Freunde der Nationalgalerie 2015 | © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Nationalgalerie / Thomas Bruns / VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2016 / Morgan Art Foundation
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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Kreuzberg – Amerika. Workshop for Photography 1976-1986. An exploration of the perspectives and narratives photography brought to the workingclass neighborhood Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www. co-berlin.org.Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Dalí – The Exhibition The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (Sun from 10am). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Deutsche Bank KunstHalle With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 5 Mar: Bhupen Khakhar: You Can’t Please All. A survey of the courageous and internationally recognized artist from 20th century India. Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bankkunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery
Haus am Waldsee Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 12 Feb: Julian Röder – Right and Space. A comprehensive exhibition of Röder’s oeuvre, which challenges power relations, globalization, and surveillance. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map
Helmut Newton Foundation Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www. helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being
dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map
me Collectors Room Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 2 Apr: My Abstract World , bold and intense abstract art. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Commercial Galleries Galerie Jean Michel Berlin, 8 Dec to 21 Jan: Hiraki Koichi: Solo Show. Kantstr. 28. www.jeanmichelberlin. de; Westphal Berlin. Kunst & Projekte, 10 Dec to 4 Feb: Artists of the gallery and guests: Retrospective and Prospective. Kurfürstendamm 207 / 208. www. westphal-berlin.de; Janinebeangallery, 10 Dec to 18 Feb: Anna Borowy: Let's Get Lost. Torstr. 154. www.janinebeangallery.com; Galerie Tammen & Partner, 10 Dec to 28 Jan: Thorsten Zwinger, Freddy Langer: Painting – Photography. Hedemannstr. 14. www.galerie-tammen-partner.de.
MUST SEE One of the finest collections of European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. To 19 Feb: Hieronymus Bosch and His Pictorial World in the 16th and 17th Century. A celebration of Bosch’s 500 years of lasting influence, featuring originals, copies, and work that was inspired by his. From 4 Dec: The Tehran Collection. Works from the Tehran Museum for Contemporary Art will be on display, giving visitors a glimpse into modern Iranian art Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
khakhar: courtesy of deutsche Bank kunsthalle.
Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2016 / Morgan Art Foundation
Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. To 8 Jan: Alexandra Ranner. Karma Collapse. A retrospective of the Berlin artist and art professor’s surreal multimedia work. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www. georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map
Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. To 26 Feb: Ernst Ludwig Kirchner. Hieroglyphics. Hieroglyphic paintings as a sign of expressionism. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www. hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2
Courageously Candid Autobiographical and frank, complex and provocative: words often used to describe Bhupen Khakhar’s work. But above all, Khakhar (1934–2003) aimed to tell the story of the ordinary man in India. Despite being self-taught, the accountant-turned-artist became central to the development of modern Indian art, and quickly garnered international acclaim for his intuitive ability to tease out the extraordinary in scenes seemingly ordinary and mundane. Khakhar's work fuses South Asian and European elements and influences with themes of class difference, desire, and homosexuality. In a time and place that was not accepting of homosexuality, Khakhar bravely explored his identity in his powerful work. You Can’t Please All, showing at the Deutsche Bank Kunsthalle (this page), is the first posthumous retrospective of Khakhar’s work. Until 5 Mar. www.wheretraveler.com 53
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DINING | THE GUIDE
Good Old Christmas Goose Make time this month to feast on a German holiday delicacy, Hilda Hoy advises. On Christmas Eve, our Swedish neighbors to the north feast on meatballs and ham, while in Mexico, the Christmas meal wouldn’t be complete without tamales. In the Czech Republic, fried carp is the star of the holiday table, while the Brits prefer turkey. There are countless Christmas dinner traditions around the world, but here in Germany, the most beloved holiday dish is roast goose: rich meat under a layer of crisp, golden skin, served with stewed red cabbage and dumplings to soak up the gravy. If you’re hungry for a festive meal this month, give goose a try at one of these spots, from traditional spreads to modern gourmet. Throughout the year, Aigner (Französische Str. 25, www. aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de) is a popular spot on elegant Gendarmenmarkt for top-notch German-Austrian food, with one of the best schnitzels in town. But throughout December, the roast goose is the real star. Each portion comes with red cabbage and stick-to-your-ribs stewed kale – another
German winter specialty – plus potato dumplings. Prater is well known as the oldest beer garden in the city, but even when the weather outside is wintry and the beer garden tables are packed up for the season, indoors is a cozy restaurant serving hearty GermanAustrian food to go with the Prater beer. Home-style roast goose is a special feature on the menu until 22 December. Pre-ordering is a must, and only a whole goose – which feeds up to four – can be ordered at a time. If you can’t wrangle up a crew, don’t worry: single-serving portions of roasted Brandenburg duck is also on the menu, served with the same tasty cabbage and dumplings. To give Christmas dinner a gourmet, fancy twist, head to Le Faubourg (Augsburger Str.
41, www.lefaubourg.berlin) for modern French cuisine, a chic yet warm and intimate spot for a special night out. Especially for Christmas Eve, the chef will be whipping up a special four- and five-course Christmas menu featuring gourmet twists on the traditional meal, starting with red cabbage soup with goose liver crisps, roast duck with salsify root, and goose pâté with popcorn and pistachios. And if the standard European cuisines don’t appeal, there’s always the American Jewish tradition of going out for Chinese on Christmas. Duck, the goose’s close cousin, is a specialty at Ming Dynastie (Brückenstr. 6, www.ming-dynastie.de), a riverside restaurant just across from the imposing Chinese embassy. Peking duck, anyone?
La Faubourg food: ©Amin Akhtar; interior: Courtesy of Sofitel Kurfürstendamm; Aigner: Courtesy of Aigner; goose by Stijn Nieuwendijk, CC BY TNC-ND 2.0 via flickr.
Clockwise from below left: Basting the Christmas goose; delicacies at Le Faubourg; the dining room at Le Faubourg; Inset, below: Aigner.
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DINING
DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.
Fine Dining For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.
5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3
www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3
Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3
Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Facil
Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer
Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D.
The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de.
Market Munchies Christmas markets: come for the holiday spirit, stay for the food. Here’s our guide to the tastiest seasonal delights to snack on at Christmas markets around town.
Glühwein Red wine mulled with spices and fruit, this warming concoction is a Weihnachtsmarkt classic. Pay a small deposit to have your drink served in a festive ceramic mug that you can take home if you choose.
Grog The boozier counterpart to Glühwein, Grog is a blend of hot water, rum, and brown sugar that will warm you right down to your toes.
Rostbratwurst No festival in Germany would be complete without sausages. A popular Christmas market offering is the smaller Rostbratwurst from Nuremberg, stuffed three at a time into a bun.
Lángos Though originally Hungarian, this deliciously greasy treat is a popular star at Berlin’s markets. Plate-sized discs of dough are deepfried before being topped with garlicky sour cream, cheese, and ham.
The store kitchen © Kirchner Kutt. market munchies: © istock photo.
by Stijn Nieuwendijk, CC BY TNC-ND 2.0 via flickr.
Kartoffelpuffer
Top Lunch Healthy eating is now cooler than ever, and nowhere in Berlin is this better illustrated than at The Store Kitchen. Located on the ground floor of the Soho House club in Mitte (but fully open to non-members), this fresh, high-caliber eatery is tucked into the side and back of The Store, a concept shop selling everything from designer handbags to covetable homewares to eye-catching houseplants. The incredibly hip yet incredibly welcoming café space is open from 10am–7pm, with plenty of spacious, comfortable seating making it the perfect spot for a long, lingering breakfast or lunch with a book or your laptop. The small menu features tasty items like roast chicken with charred leek or Sichuan noodles with spicy peanut sauce and refreshing cucumber, but where the creativity of the kitchen really shines is in the changing array of salads and soups, which combine fresh, seasonal, and local produce in unusual, surprising, and always delicious ways. Keep an eye out for their regular special dinner events headed by culinary talents flown in from London and further afield. Torstr. 1. T: 030 405044550. www.thestores.com/berlin
Also known as Reibekuchen, these goldencrisp potato pancakes are the perfect thing to stave off a Grog hangover.
Grünkohl Chopped kale and chunks of sausage are cooked down to a hearty, stick-to-your-ribs stew that is a classic German winter dish.
Gebrannte Mandeln Everything about this sounds delicious: whole almonds coated in buttery caramel syrup and then roasted until crunchy. Sold in paper cones for convenient snacking, even with mittened hands.
Baumkuchen This dense “tree cake” is made by brushing batter layer by layer onto a rotating spit, leaving the finished product with tree-like rings that give the cake its name.
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DINING Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2
Rising In The Ranks The eye-catching, lushly green wallpaper might be the first thing you notice when you step into Tulus Lotrek, but by the time you leave, the food is sure to have made just as strong an impression. Opened earlier this year on a quiet residential street in Kreuzberg, Tulus Lotrek may look small and unassuming from the outside, but its culinary ambitions are anything but. On the menu is refined French-German cuisine, starting off with some local ingredients such as duck, ox, and veal but confidently departing on delicious flights of fancy from there, resulting in taste sensations like poached egg yolk served with a scallop and celery puree, or a beetroot macaron as an amuse bouche, filled with malted buttercream and goat cheese. Chef Max Strohe has a special knack for playful, creative twists and combinations, which has not gone unnoticed: In October, he was crowned this year’s Newcomer of the Year in the Berlin Master Chef awards. Fichtestr. 24. T: 030 41956687. www.tuluslotrek.de
Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4
Tim Raue From his humble beginnings growing up in Kreuzberg, Tim Raue has become one of the bestknown culinary names in Berlin. Plumbing the Far East for inspiration, his namesake restaurant serves refined interpretations of Asian cuisine, such as his famed personal take on Peking duck. €€€€. Tue–Sun L&D. www.tim-raue.com. Rudi-DutschkeStr. 26. T: 030.25937930. U Kochstraße. E4
CHARLOTTENBURG– WILMERSDORF Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s signature restaurant is
all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality best meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant. com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4
Kushinoya Japanese. This upscale Japanese restaurant makes
fried finger-food taste gourmet. The specialty is kushiage, skewers of delicate morsels like steak cubes, quail eggs, or shiitake mushroom caps that are lightly breaded and fried using a special nongreasy technique. www.kushinoya.de. Bleibtreustr. 6. T: 030.31809897. S Savignyplatz. B4
Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the
bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the
Transit
revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4
Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transitrestaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map
Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant
KREUZBERG
American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the
American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4
Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4
FRIEDRICHSHAIN Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3
Hasir Turkish. The little Turkish grill house rumored to be the birthplace of the döner kebab in the 1970s has since expanded to six locations around the city. The original restaurant, near Kottbusser Tor, is a very popular spot for trying the full spectrum of what Turkish cuisine has to offer – far beyond the kebab. €€. Daily L&D. www.hasir.de. Adalbertstr. 10. T: 030.6142373. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Kimchi Princess Korean. “Let them eat kimchi,” implores the website
for this hip, popular Korean restaurant. The house specialty is the meaty tabletop barbecue to be split between two or more diners, which comes with all the traditional side dishes including, of course, kimchi. €€. Daily D. www.kimchiprincess.com. Skalitzer Str. 36. T: 0163.4580203. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. F4
Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint
Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant
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NEW YEARS EVE 2016 / 2017
www.the-grand-berlin.com
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DINING
Hospitality is our passion.
Maximilians. Friedrichstr. 185 · U-Bhf. Stadtmitte www.maximiliansberlin.de
known for attracting celebrities. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4
Spindler German/European. Head chef Nicolas Gemin, formerly of Michelin-starred Pauly Saal, wows diners with upscale twists on German-European cuisine: Think cured salmon with beet pickles and ricotta, octopus and chorizo, or lamb shoulder with smothered Jerusalem artichokes. Also serves breakfast and weekend brunch. €€–€€€. Mon–Fri L, daily D. www.spindler-berlin.net. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42. T: 030.69598880. U Kottbusser Tor, U Schönleinstraße. F4
Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Mitte
Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot
Berlin’s most delicious restaurants
of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3
Cookies Cream Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian
dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3
Crackers German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158. T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3
The Grand
©istock
German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin. com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. F2
Hummus & Friends ®
Berlin
Israeli. Creamy, rich, and fluffy hummus with warm pita bread might just be Israel’s national dish, and with the opening of Hummus & Friends, it’s easy to get in the German capital too. Also on the menu are fresh, colorful salads and side dishes like roasted
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whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The bar even serves kosher Israeli wine. €. Daily L&D. www. hummus-and-friends.com. Oranienburger Str. 27. T: 030.55471454. S Oranienburger Straße. F2
Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.
Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3
Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s
traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2
the prime rib restaurant
Prenzlauer Berg I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Our focus is the U.S.-Prime Rib, which is cut from the core of lean prime rib. Other classics of the upscale U.S. kitchen can be also enjoyed.
Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. Koll U Senefelderplatz. F2
Tiergarten Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
IT`S PRIME TIME in Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre Nürnberger Straße 65 · 10787 Berlin T: +49 30 2100 7000 info@restaurant-wilsons.de www.restaurant-wilsons.de www.wheretraveler.com 59
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Disney's beauty and the beast, photo by Stefan Malzkorn. andrej hermlin and his swing dance orchestra, © hauth.
THE GUIDE | ENTERTAINMENT
Musical Days Rachel Stern scanned the city from east to west to find the best Christmas concerts. With its carols, heavenly choirs, and cabaret shows, the days around Christmas are a very musical time. Berlin gets ready for this melodious feast with a myriad of festive concerts. We've selected a few of our favorite ones. If dancing is your favorite way to celebrate, the annual Christmas Ball at the Hotel MOA (www.hotel-moa-berlin.de) is the place to be. Berlin-based Andrej Hermlin and His Swing Dance Orchestra (photo, right) take center stage on 17 Dec., playing not only hit American and German swing songs from the 1930s, but also waltz, tango, and Latin American rhythms. A ticket includes a dinner buffet and an impressive selection of drinks. If you've missed them on the 17th, you can still catch them on stage the following day, this time in the more sober setting of the Konzerthaus (p. 63), for Christmas in Swing, a festive show full of evergreen classics such as Santa Claus is Coming to Town. No visit to Berlin would be complete
without a visit to the Philharmonie (p. 63), home to the Berliner Philharmoniker. On 25 Dec., Stanley Dodds will be conducting the orchestra through the beauty of Rachmaninoff's powerful Piano Concerto No. 2 and Tchaikovsky's Romeo and Juliet Ouverture. Kids 10 and up will enjoy the operatic rendition of Hansel and Gretel by Engelbert Humperdinck, on from 18 Dec.–1 Jan. at the Deutsche Oper (p. 62). Conducted by Donald Runnicles, the story of the two siblings that end up in a witch's gingerbread house is a
classic for audiences big and small. From 8–17 Dec., Admiralspalast (p. 66) presents another great classic, the Disneyinspired musical Beauty and the Beast, with its Oscar-winning music and moving storyline. Later in the month, the Palast will add a pinch of tropical flavor to the winter with the legendary "grandfathers of Cuban music," Buena Vista Social Club, who will be presenting The Bar at Buena Vista, a show made up of a bit of Cuban humor and lots of Caribbean rhythm (25–31 Dec.). If you are looking for the royal treatment, book a table for a Residenzkonzert inside the Big Orangerie of the Charlottenburg Palace (24–26 Dec.), and enjoy a holiday gala dinner while listening to musicians in 1700s period dress perform Baroque pieces such as Corelli's magnificent Christmas Concerto, as well as excerpts from Bach's Christmas Oratorio and Handel's Messiah (www.residenzkonzerte. berlin). www.wheretraveler.com 61
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ENTERTAINMENT
FROM 15 DEC. AT
Ballet & Opera
ENGLISH ORIGINAL VERSION
A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 2 Dec: Salome (Strauss). 3, 29 Dec: Carmen (Bizet). 4, 11, 17 Dec: Lohengrin (Wagner). 6 Dec: Die Entführing aus dem Serail (Mozart). 10 Dec: Tosca (Puccini). 12, 15, 20 Dec: Evgeny Onegin (Tchaikovsky). 7, 13 Dec: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 4, 16, 21, 26 Dec: Aida (Verdi). 3, 6, 25, 27 Dec: La Boheme (Puccini). T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3
EXCLUSIVELY AT SONY CENTER
ON BERLIN´S LARGEST SCREEN!
Deutsche Oper
Komische Oper Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with mesmerizing results. 2, 6, 25 Dec: Evgeny Onegin (Tchaikovsky). 4, 16, 26 Dec: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini). 3, 7, 10, 13, 15, 19, 21, 28, 31 Dec: Die Perlen der Cleopatra (Straus). 11, 23 Dec: Eine Frau, die weiss, was sie will (Straus). 14, 17, 29 Dec: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 18, 30 Dec: Marinka (Kálmán). 22 Dec: Rusalka (Dvorak). www.komische-operberlin.de. Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. U Französische Straße. E3
Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 1, 7, 8, 9, 28, 30 Dec: The Nutcracker (Tchaikovsky). 3, 5, 6 Dec: Duato & Kylian. 5, 27 Dec: Multiplicity. Forms of Silence and Emptiness (Nacho Duato). www.staatsballett-berlin. de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved
all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres.2, 10, 18, 23, 25 Dec: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 4, 8, 11, 16, 19, 22 Dec: Manon Lescaut (Puccini). 9, 15, 17, 21, 26, 28 Dec: La Boheme (Puccini). 20 Dec: Christmas Concert. www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Classical Concerts Berliner Dom Berlin’s main cathedral presents a plethora of sacred music concerts year round. www. berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Hochschule für Musik Hans Eisler One of Berlin’s most prestigious music academies. Its students are members of important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and the stage presents hundreds of concerts every year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de. Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3
Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 2 Dec: Das Sinfonie Orchester (cond. Rössler, violin Zhang) performs von Weber, Saint Saens, Tchaikovsky. 3 Dec: Barock Orchester Berlin, cond. Stefan Bevier. 7 Dec: Gerald Finley and Antonio Pappano perform works by Beethoven, Liszt, and others. 11 Dec: The 14 Berlin Flutists in concert. 14 Dec: Elena Bashkirova piano recital. 21 Dec: Axel Zwingenberger performs boogie-woogie hits on the piano. 27 Dec: Festival Orchestra Berlin (cond. Bevier) performs Vivaldi, Paganini, Puccini, Grieg. www.berliner-
Only at Sony Center facebook.com/IMAX
Berlin's range of holiday season events got a new addition this year: the Christmas Garden, a series of plant-themed celebrations held at the Botanical Gardens all month. Take a break from the crowded Christmas markets and go for a stroll through the sparkling fairytale landscapes, including hundreds of lights and glowing 3D holiday characters decorating a 1.5-kilometer trail providing beautiful views, including the garden's unique weeping willows, "dressed" in lights for the occasion. At the end, take a spin on the ice skating rink or simply enjoy the regional culinary specialties on offer, which can be savored around cozy fire pits. Gates open every evening at 5pm, and the winter magic will continue until 1 January, excluding Christmas and New Year’s Eve. Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8. T: 030 83850100. www.botanischer-garten-berlin.de
© istock photo.
A Botanical Christmas
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philharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Konzerthaus This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Konzerthausorchester, but other orchestras and soloists grace its stage regularly. 2, 3, 4 Dec: The Konzerthausorchester (cond. Fischer) and the Thomanerchor Leipzig perform Bach's Christmas Oratorio. 5 Dec: Cameron Carpenter, All You Need is Bach. 10 Dec: Brass Band Berlin in concert. 11 Dec: The Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Sanderling) performs Mozart. 13 Dec: Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. Barenboim) performs Smetana. 18 Dec: Old Russia's Best Songs. 18 Dec: Christmas in Swing with Andrej Hermlin and his Swing Orchestra. 19 Dec: Denis Matsuev recital. 21, 22 Dec: Jauchzet, frohlocket, Variations on Bach's Christmas Oratorio. 30 Dec: Pietro Massa piano recital. 31 Dec: The Rundfunk-Sinfornieorchester Berlin and the Rundfunkchor Berlin (cond. Marek Janowski) perform Beethoven's 9th Symphony. www.konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3
Philharmonie The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. 2–4 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Gilbert, violin Zimmermann) perform Adams, Bartók, Tchaikovsky. 5 Dec: The English Baroque Soloists and the Monteverdi Choir (cond. Gardiner) perform Bach. 7–10 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Thielemann) perform works by Sofia Gubaidulina and Bruckner. 15–17 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Thielemann, piano Buchbinder) perform works by Beethoven and Bruckner. 20–22 and 31 Dec: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Rattle, piano Trifonov) perform works by Kabalevsky, Rachmaninov, Walton, Dvorak. 25 Dec: Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin (cond. Dodds) performs Tchaikovsky, Mendelssohn, and others. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin Injecting new expression into 19th- and 20thcentury classical works under the lead of Marek Janowski, the oldest German radio orchestra with its 103 members has won a place in the top tier of European concert orchestras. www.rsb-online.de. Tickets: 030.20298715.
DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES Dock 11 Studios & Eden Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary performances inside an old factory. Two locations, one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www. dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. S+U Pankow. Off Map
HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-amufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4
excalibur
abc
13.12.16 · Mercedes-Benz Arena
+ lewiS & leigh 14.12.16 · Huxleys
avenged Sevenfold + diSTurbed + chevelle
walking on carS
The celTic rock opera of alan Simon
15.02.17 · Arena Berlin
lindSey STirling
09.03.17 · Max-schmeling-Halle
02.03.17 · Huxleys
johnoSSi 10.03.17 · columbiahalle
dave maTThewS korn + heaven Shall burn + hellyeah 28.03.17 · Velodrom
& Tim reynoldS 30.03.17 · columbiahalle
rock meeTS Simple mindS + kT TunSTall claSSic 13.04.17 · Admiralspalast 08.04.17 · tempodrom
bryan ferry 19.05.17 · tempodrom
propheTS of rage 07.06.17 · Zitadelle
bluegraSS jamboree! gallanT
feSTival of bluegraSS and americana muSic
04.12.16 · columbia theater 1977 - 20Th anniverSary Tour
aSh
07.12.16 · Lido
08.12.16 · Frannz
The Temperance movemenT + The gravelToneS
13.12.16 · Lido
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ENTERTAINMENT
Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3
Movie Theaters CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5
Zoo Palast The historic seat of the Berlinale is situated near the Zoologischer Garten station and now offers English-language screenings of the latest blockbusters. www.zoopalast-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4
B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2
Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacher Straße. D5
Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5
Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. Off Map
Havanna
Rock, Pop, Jazz
The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5
A-Trane
Lido
Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011)
A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program.
Figaro Here, Figaro There It is hard to believe that The Barber of Seville, Giacomo Rossini's best-known opera, premiered in such a disastrous way: Its first performance in Rome in 1816 featured several on-stage accidents, and the audience hissed throughout the show as an act of support for Rossini's rival Paisiello, who had just composed another opera with the same name. The second performance, however, was a great success, paving the way for exactly 200 years of standing ovations all over the world. This month, the Komische Oper brings Rossini's famous barber to Berlin in a production by one of the most exciting Russian directors out there, Kirill Serebrennikov, who staged the opera as a modern game of hide-and-seek. 4, 6, 16 Dec. Komische Oper (p. 62)
Credit: Tansel Akzeybek, Dominik Köninger, Nicole Chevalier, photo by MOnika Rittershaus.
Radialsystem V
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ENTERTAINMENT
on this month theater, MusicaLS & Dance Blue Man group Bluemax Theater, all month
UNDERART Chamäleon Theater, all month
The one: Grand show Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month
BEauty and the beast Admiralspalast, 8–17 Dec
With thrilling acrobatics, live music, dazzling lasers, and daredevil motorcross freestylers soaring through the air, Flic Flac is a modern, unconventional circus for all ages that’s filled with unexpected surprises. For its 25thanniversary edition, Flic Flac has set up base right behind Bahnhof Zoo station – just look for the big yellow-and-black tent. www.flicflac.de
Tempodrom, from 22 Dec
Pop, Rock & Jazz Pet Shop Boys Tempodrom, 1 Dec
The bar at buena vista Admiralspalast, 25–31 Dec
The Harlem Gospel Singers Admiralspalast, 21 Dec
Carrington brown Tipi am Kanzleramt, 6 Dec
Ballet & Classical Beethoven's 9th symphony Konzerthaus, 31 Dec
Denis Matsuev, Piano Konzerthaus, 19 Dec
The nutcracker Deutsche Oper, all month
Il Barbiere di siviglia Komische Oper, 4, 16, 26 Dec
Die zauberflöte Deutsche Oper, 7, 13 Dec Cuban rhythms, The Bar at Buena Vista.
www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 2 Dec: The Scorpions in concert. www.mercedesbenz-arena-berlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4
Tempodrom This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 1 Dec: Pet Shop Boys in concert. 2, 3 Dec: Chippendales, Break The Rules tour. 4 Dec: Klassik Radio live in concert. 6 Dec: Jose Feliciano. 16 Dec–2 Jan: Roncalli Christmas Circus. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4
comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Underart, a new circus performance by CirkusCirkör. www. chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2
Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. All month: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of "the one." www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3
Quatsch Comedy Club
Theater, Cabaret & Musicals
This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www.quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Admiralspalast
Schaubühne
One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. 8–17 Dec: Beauty and The Beast. 21 Dec: The Harlem Gospel Singers Show. 25–31 Dec: The Bar at Buena Vista. www.admiralspalast.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4
Bar Jeder Vernunft A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4
Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and
Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 6 Dec: Carrington Brown; 31 Dec: Paul Morocco & Olé, New Year's eve show. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3
Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4
The bar at buena vista, photo by nilz boehme; flic flac, courtesy of flic flac.
Roncalli Christmas Circus
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Tickets from
7€
Book Online
Brandenburg Gate Museum
Film • Sound • Emotion
“38 sound channels that leave a lasting impression” (Tagesspiegel)
Special Christmas Event
“Stunning images“ (RBB Radio)
Sunday, 11.12.2016
Entrance to the Brandenburg Gate Museum and afterwards during a guided walk through the festively illuminated city you learn more about German history and Christmas traditions. The tour ends at one of the prettiest Christmas markets of the city. Start: 2:00pm Duration: 2,5 hours Tickets* Adult 17€ Reduced 15€ *An short trip ticket is required for this tour.
DIRECTLY AT THE BRANDENBURG GATE
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GETTING THERE
Brandenburger Tor Pariser Platz 4a 10117 Berlin
OPENING HOURS daily open Monday – Sunday 10am – 6pm
TICKETS AND SERVICE
www. brandenburggate-museum.com Mail: info@brandenburgertor-museum.de Phone: +49 (0)30 23 60 78 436
17/11/2016 08:40
NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
Happy New Year! There is no doubt that Berlin is one of Europe’s top cities for nightlife – a reputation that is especially upheld on New Year’s Eve, or Silvester as the night is known in German. Here is a list of the most important parties and celebrations not to miss this year. Every year, a former coin minting factory, the historic Alte Münze Berlin (Molkenmarkt 2, www.alte-muenze-berlin.com), converts into a stylish dance space with six floors, 18 DJs and a massive fireworks display on 31 Dec. Situated right next to Alexanderplatz, it also reveals a stunning view of the Spree River and TV Tower. Nearby is the glamorous Kino International (Karl-Marx-Allee 33, www.kino-international. com), a theater that formerly premiered GDR films on Karl-Marx-Allee, East Germany's main
shopping drag and characteristically large boulevard. Now, it hosts a star-studded event every New Year’s Eve, with seven DJs spread across five dance floors, one with panoramic windows overlooking the TV Tower and firework shows. For another spectacular 360-degree view, head to HomeBase Lounge/ Academie Lounge (Köthener Str. 44, www.academie-lounge. de), situated a short distance from the bustling Potsdamer Platz. While the €59 to €79 (for last-minute tickets) price tag of the event is a bit heavier than that for other venues this night, it’s one of the best bargains: guests can indulge in an open bar as well as gourmet
finger food served right up until midnight. The sleek nightclub blasts beats ranging from '90s hits to house. But one of the most popular ways to celebrate the new year in Berlin is the Silvester event at Brandenburg Gate (Pariser Platz 5). The monument is the starting point of a two-kilometer stretch of Straße des 17. Juni that hosts a festival of live music performances, light and laser shows, and food stands serving specialties from around the world. Stick around 'til the clock strikes midnight, and witness one of Berlin’s best firework displays and outdoor after-parties.
©istock photos.
Rachel Stern rounds up the top festivities, from fireworks over the Spree to dance parties in historic buildings and theaters, that are helping to usher in 2017 in the German capital.
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Beer
The Grand
Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4
Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4
Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4
Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
Casinos Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www. spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4
Wine & Cocktails
A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4
Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4
LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3
Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3
Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2
Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafe-berlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4
Bar Tausend
Times Bar
Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. Open daily from noon to late evening. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4
Fragrances
©istock photos.
©istock photos.
NIGHTLIFE
The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www. ritzcarlton.com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Victoria Bar The Moet & Chandon champagne bar inside KaDeWe (Tauentzienstr. 21) is the place to go to taste and buy the best champagne in town.
Top-notch cocktails and a marvelous, elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. Open daily 6.30pm–3am (until 4am on Friday & Saturday). www. victoriabar.de. Potsdamer Str. 102. T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4
CLUB GUIDE Berghain/Panorama Bar The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am– Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3
Kater Blau A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3
Tresor Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3
Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4
House of Weekend Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin. de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3
Clärchens Ballhaus A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
Horns & Hooves An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves. de. Danziger Str. 1. F1
Gretchen Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4
Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. E3
Puro Sky Lounge High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4
The Pearl Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.
T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof.
Tourist Passes and Discount Cards Where Pass Berlin: public transport and discounted entry to a long list of attractions. Get it at the S-Bahn Berlin machines and service centers. www.wherepassberlin.com
BERLIN AIRPORTS Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten
run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.70 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.70. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315. Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150.
Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierge. Sandra Bösemüller, of the Regent Hotel, is here to help. www.lcdg.org What does your perfect day look like? My perfect day would start with a session at Ride Berlin, a new spinning studio, and end with the deluxe package at the Zoopalast cinema.
What are your wildest experiences as a concierge? I always find marriage proposals charming; each one is different and enchanting. I’ve already organized at least 50.
When you have visitors, what do you show them? I love everything around Rosenthaler Platz: Münzstraße, Neue Schönhauser Straße, and Kastanienallee. Berlin must also be admired from above, so a climb up to the top of the Siegessäule is always included in my tour.
Which event do you recommend in December? I love the performances at the Märchenhütte theater. Cozy space, high-quality shows, and incredibly entertaining.
Any secret tips for Berlin? My favorite beer garden Birgit & Bier. On Fridays and Saturdays it’s also a party location. Describe Berlin in three words. Lively, noisy, extroverted. (Just like me!) What do you do after work? You can often find me at Cordobar. Tell us about your hotel. I lovingly call it the "marble palace."
Tips for a German specialty? The Windbeutel (cream puffs) from Marjellchen restaurant (www.marjellchen-berlin.de). What makes Berlin different from other big cities? Berlin is constantly evolving – this presents a huge challenge as a concierge. A romantic suggestion? A carriage ride for two through the city. Images: Clockwise from left: The lobby at the Regent Hotel; the Siegessäule, Berlin's victory column; the staff at Cordobar.
TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated
RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.30. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.30. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.
GETTING AROUND Public Transport www.bvg.de.
Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.70; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €17,30. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.
70 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2016
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MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG-0050.16; UBAHN: © ISTOCK PHOTO.
ASK THE CONCIERGE
THE REGENT AND CONCIERGE PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF THE REGENT; SIEGESSÄULE: © ISTOCK PHOTO; CORDOBAR: COURTESY OF CORDOBAR.
Berlin Schönefeld (SXF)
U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.
S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.
Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.
Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.
Rent A Bike
Platz der Luftbrücke
STATIO OF N MONTTHE H
Opened in 1926 with the name "Kreuzberg," this stop on the U6 was renamed "Flughafen" (airport) in 1937 for its direct connection to Tempelhof airport. When civil aviation moved to Tegel in 1975, the station was renamed once more to receive its current name.
Rent a Car Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. T: 0180.6003690
Taxis Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.
Money Services Banks and Foreign Exchange
Explore Berlin by bike. Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:
www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.
MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG-0050.16; UBAHN: © ISTOCK photo.
The regent and concierge portrait: courtesy of the regent; siegessäule: © istock photo; cordobar: courtesy of cordobar.
ESSENTIALS
FREE TRAVEL ON PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.
Lost Cards and Cheques American Express: T: 069.97972000
CITY GUIDE
CITY MAP
Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440
Tax-Free Shopping German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.
DISCOUNTS
STARTING AT 25 €
WWW.WHEREPASSBERLIN.COM
www.wheretraveler.com 71
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11/11/2016 15:19
U
WHERE NOW | TAINÁ GUEDES
TAINÁ GUEDES GALLERY OWNER
Tainá Guedes wears many creative hats: artist, curator, chef, food activist, cookbook author, initiator of Berlin Food Art Week… and that’s just for starters. In Berlin since 2009, Tainá has been running her Entretempo Kitchen Gallery in Prenzlauer Berg for the last two years. Drop by all month to see the exhibition Sacred Food, a visual and culinary exploration of food and spirituality. Senefelderstr. 29, www.entretempo-kitchen-gallery.com
How did you end up in Berlin? Back in Brazil, I was running my own restaurant and designing a fashion label. I was working all the time and had no time for my art. So I left everything and moved to Germany with a German guy that I had met in Brazil. While I was studying Japanese in Düsseldorf, I met Stephan Hentschel, the owner of Cookies Cream restaurant in Berlin, and he offered me a job. In the end the job didn’t work out, but it was actually perfect because I was here in Berlin and had time to work on my projects. Entretempo Kitchen Gallery explores the intersection of food and art. What kinds of things do you do in this unique space? We do about four exhibitions a year, plus workshops and other events – for example, we did a series of themed literary dinners inspired by Goethe and Gertrude Stein. It’s not necessarily a commercial gallery – we want to address socio-economic and environmental issues through our work. I spent time in Japan studying Shojin Ryori philosophy, and it made me think about how much food affects our world and relates to our socio-economic and environmental issues. What are ways that food lets you express
your creativity? I enjoy creating concepts that bring together food and art. For example, we did the catering for an event at the University of the Arts with the theme “future art.” So we made futuristic food, such as food in pill form. It’s quite exciting how easy it is for people to communicate through food. Everyone has a relationship to food. It’s simply the perfect medium. How is Berlin as a place to do this creative work? When I came here, people were really closed. When I talked to chefs about doing food and art together, they didn’t understand. I think that’s changed a lot. Now people are open to try more experimental things. The worlds of food and art were once very separate, but now it’s normal to see creative people doing things with food. What are some other places in Berlin doing creative things with food? The Cookies Cream vegetarian restaurant (Behrenstr. 55, www.cookiescream.com) is breaking rules and changing people’s
perspectives. I take my friends there who think that they can’t survive without meat so they can challenge themselves. Imagine you had the whole day off. What would your perfect day look like? I would definitely spend the day doing something nice with the people I work with. If it was summer, I would go out on my inflatable boat, or go canoeing. What’s special about Berlin is that we have a lot of parks and nature nearby. In the winter, I think it is important to keep moving, to try new challenges, so I would go iceskating at Erika Hess Eisstadion in Wedding (Müllerstr. 185) – it’s a really big, really cool building. I enjoy drinking whiskey, so at night I would go to Keith bar in Neukölln (Schillerpromenade 2, www.keithbarberlin.de). The guy there is amazing – he is so passionate about whiskey. He talks to you and figures out which whiskey best suits you. Clockwise from top left: An exhibition of Entretempo; Tainá Guedes; creative catering at Entretempo food events.
TAINÁ GUEDES PORTRAIT: © IARA GUEDES; "JELLYFISH" INSTALLATION ©JAVIER BLANCO CHIOCCHIO; FOOD SHOTS OCHAZUKE AND YAKI ONIGIRI; © NAOKO YASUKOCHI; TABLE SETTING: ©AMADEUS LINDMANN; WHISKEY © ISTOCK.
My Berlin
74 W H E R E B E R L I N I D E C E M B E R 2016
74 WB DEC MY BERLIN.indd 74
11/11/2016 15:22
CHRISTMAS GARDEN BERLIN MIT DER DÄMMERUNG BEGINNT DIE MAGISCHE REISE … FROM THE PRODUCERS OF CHRISTMAS AT KEW IN LONDON
MORE THAN A MILLION POINTS OF LIGHT 300 M² ICE SKATING RINK INCLUDED!
17 TH OF NOVEMBER – 1 ST OF JANUARY BOTANICAL GARDEN BERLIN Book your Tickets and choose your time online at or www.christmas-garden.de * As well as at +49 (0) 1806 - 777 111 , at the ticket offices at the Botanical Garden Berlin or at any other established ticket agency. *(€0.20 per call from German landline, maximum of €0.60 per call from German mobile)
WB CHRISTMAS GARDEN.indd 1
07/11/2016 14:56
kaufhof.de
A house full of presents Welcome to the world of Christmas Your Galeria Kaufhof Berlin Alexanderplatz
Ch r
is inistmas the air
December 29th & 30th, 2016 from 9:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. December 31st, 2016 from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Open on Sunday: December 4th & 18th, 2016 from 1:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.
162164/4
Our opening hours in December 2016: December 1st – 23rd, 2016 Monday–Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. December 24th, 2016 from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. December 27th & 28th, 2016 from 9:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Galeria Kaufhof GmbH | Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1 | 50676 Köln
BERLIN, ALEXANDERPLATZ P
Underground car park at Alexanderplatz (open 24 hours a day)
WP GALERIA KAUFHOF.indd 1 ET:xx.xx.xxxx 162164_Weihnachten_Sonderoeffnung_Berlin210_206x276_0112 Stand:28.09.2016 162164_Weihnachten_Sonderoeffnung_Berlin210_206x276_0112.indd 1
07/11/2016 15:00 03.11.16 16:39