Berlin
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GREEN CITY Take in the spring in Berlin's best gardens PLUS: BERLIN FOR NIGHT OWLS VIRTUAL REALITY TOURS A DRINK AND A BITE
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Berlin
CONTENTS
04.17 See more of Berlin at wheretraveler.com
The Plan Let’s get started
The Guide The best of Berlin
16
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6 Hot Dates
A watchmaking industry that matches the German obsession with punctuality.
Highlights of the month's can't-miss events, from breakdancing illusions to Easter bonfires and lots of music.
SIGHTSEEING
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An inside peek into Le Corbusier Haus, one of the city's most important architectural projects.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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No trip to Berlin would be complete without visiting the famed Museum Island.
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XX food and good drinks Good continue to go hand in hand.
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66 My Berlin
DINING
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Anthea Kreston Music and family tips from a celebrated violinist.
ENTERTAINMENT
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An eccentric night out at the Komische Oper.
Also Inside
NIGHTLIFE
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62 Ask The Concierge What our expert Berlin concierges show off to their personal guests.
No one needs their arm twisted to sample their way through Berlin's best breweries. ESSENTIALS
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After-hour tips that make it well worth staying up late.
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Blue jeans, skinny jeans, flares: denim is a way of life.
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14 Berlin For Night Owls
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PLUS: BERLIN FOR NIGHT OWLS VIRTUAL REALITY TOURS A DRINK AND A BITE
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BY ANNABELLE MALLIA
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Experience the Berlin Wall first hand on a 360-degree virtual reality tour.
LöbeLöbe
BUS TXLL
Take in the spring in Berlin's best gardens
Marvel at the city's springtime botanical delights.
BUNDESTAG Paul-
nel gartentun Tierg
GREEN CITY
16 Virtual Walls
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10 The Outlook Is Green
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Where Now
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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
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YOUR
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From transport to emergency numbers, find useful information for your stay in Berlin.
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Des sauer r Str. r
Berlin
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FLYING ILLUSIONS: COURTESY OF RED BULL FLYING ILLUSIONS; VIRTUAL REALITY TOURS: COURTESY OF WHEN IN BERLIN TOURS; SCHWARZES CAFE: CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 VIA FLICKR USER RICHARD RICCIARDI; GLASSES BY: LIEBESKIND BERLIN; BÜSTE DER KÖNIGIN NOFRETETE NEUES REICH, 18. DYNASTIE, AMARNA, ÄGYPTEN, UM 1340 V. CHR. © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / FOTO: SANDRA STEISS;
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5 Editor’s Note
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4 W H E R E B E R L I n I A P R I L 2017
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WELCOME TO BERLIN
Buds, Leaves, Flowers! The sun is shining, the birds are singing, Berlin is green again... Profound poetry aside, it just feels great to be able to take a walk in the park without feeling trapped under countless layers of clothing. And with more than 40% of its surface covered by parks and forest, Berlin is just the perfect place for a stroll under the trees. This month, we decided to celebrate the botanical side of the city with a comprehensive list of the best plantrelated events in town, from the fabulous spring market at Botanischer Garten to the Tulpenschau (tulip show) at Britzer Garten (p. 10–12). But the most important green event of the month (or decade, actually) is the opening of the IGA international garden expo at the Gärten der Welt in Marzahn, with thousands of plant-related events spread over 186 days – a dream come true for all garden lovers out there.
FIND Festival International New Drama Democracy and Tragedy 30/3/17–9/4/17
And while the city's trees are busy with their photosynthetic activity, there's nothing like grabbing a table at one of the many cafés and watching the reawakening of nature.
PORTRAIT BY THOMAS HEDRICH/FOTOSTUDIO-CHARLOTTENBURG; SKYLINE © TOTALPICS/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK
Have a great spring!
SOLVEIG STEINHARDT EDITOR, WHERE BERLIN
Tickets: 030 890023 · www.schaubuehne.de w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 5
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HOT
DATES April in Berlin is a month of wonderful events, from breakdance to film festivals and plenty of music.
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RECORD STORE DAY SATURDAY
Lovers of vinyl are in for a treat. Every year on the third Saturday in April, indie record stores all over the world unite to celebrate Record Store Day. In Berlin, more than 15 stores will be participating with special promotions, in-store gigs, and lots of parties! Check out the website for locations. www.recordstoredaygermany.de 6 W H E R E B E R L I N I A P R I L 2017
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RED BULL FLYING ILLUSIONS FROM FRIDAY
Breakdance meets illusion. The astounding stage show of the Flying Steps dance company returns to its hometown for two nights with a new spectacle featuring 12 dancers, flying heroes, and dark tricksters battling out the age-old story of good versus evil – all set against a backdrop of elaborate 3D projections and a soundtrack of powerful hip-hop beats as well as recordings of a symphony orchestra. www.tempodrom.de
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SIMPLE MINDS, UNPLUGGED THURSDAY
Jim Kerr and his legendary band are back in Berlin with their mix of anthem-like rock and synth-heavy classics – this time, however, in their acoustic version. Sing along to all-time Simple Minds hits such as Don't You (Forget About Me) and Alive and Kicking, or take in the sound of their sophisticated early material, mixing post-punk and pop. Kerr swears that the shows will be as passionate and energetic as any other Simple Minds concert. www.mehr.de
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EASTER BONFIRE SATURDAY
For much of the Western world, Easter means fluffy bunnies and chocolate eggs. Germans, however, like to take celebrations a step further by lighting up large bonfires that symbolically chase away the dark spirits of winter. Britzer Garten kindles their flames on Easter Saturday, together with music and dancing followed by the highly anticipated egg hunt and games for the whole family on Easter Sunday. www.gruen-berlin.de/ britzer-garten www.wheretraveler.com 7
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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
TOKIO HOTEL TUESDAY
When the German pop-metal band rose to international fame, its oldest member was only 16. Eleven years have passed, but Tokio Hotel's "aliens," as the band's fans call themselves, have not lost their enthusiasm for their idols' distinctive sound and look. This year, Tokio Hotel is back on tour with their new album, Dream Machine, which opens a new chapter in the band's sparkling career. www.huxleysneuewelt.com
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PINK FLOYD TRIBUTE TUESDAY
In its almost 30 years of existence, The Australian Pink Floyd Show has sold more than four million tickets and toured in 35 countries. Attention to every musical detail has made them one of the most acclaimed tribute bands in the world, to the point that when Pink Floyd's guitarist David Gilmour first heard them play, he booked them for his birthday party. Join the Tempodrom show for an evening of unforgettable songs, including Dark Side of the Moon and The Wall. www.tempodrom.de
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ACHTUNG BERLIN FROM WEDNESDAY
Warning! A possible side effect of the eight-day-long Achtung Berlin festival is an addiction to popcorn. Also known as the New Berlin Film Award, the event is a great chance to see work by local cinematic talent and catch a glimpse of Berlin's most videogenic sites, as all films shown are made (at least in part) in Berlin or in the surrounding Brandenburg region. Check out the website for theaters and screenings in English. www.achtungberlin.de
at thrilling martial arts show 1 Marvel Night of the Budo Legends at Velodrom. Admire the Staatsballett in Jewels, by 2 choreography legend George Balanchine. Discover the kooky, fun work of local artist 3 John Bock at Berlinische Galerie's solo show. After a 3-year hiatus, German rockers Tokio 4 Hotel are back on stage at Huxleys tonight. See the Scotch & Soda show at Chamäleon 5 Varieté, a fun circus-meets-jazz hybrid. Join the feast at the Street Food Thursday 6 event at Kreuzberg's Markthalle Neun. off the weekend sampling vodkas at 7 Kick Kvartira 62, a Russian-style bar in Kreuzberg. rock stars perform with an orchestra 8 Classic in Rock Meets Classic, at Tempodrom. antique fans, the Sunday flea market on 9 For Tiergarten's Straße des 17. Juni is a must. a movie at CineStar Potsdamer Platz, 10 Catch one of few theaters to play movies in English. Timbre takes to the stage at Huxleys 11 Timber tonight with their latest dark, moody album. an afternoon Espresso Concert at the 12 Enjoy Konzerthaus – it's "caffeine for the ears!" 2017, a massive, 6-month-long garden 13 IGA expo, opens today in the Marzahn district. along to Sinatra and Friends, a musical 14 Sing show starring classic, beloved Sinatra tunes. are for brunching. Try the fluff y 15 Weekends pancakes at Distrikt Coffee (Bergstr. 68). Easter! Spend the day admiring 16 Happy spring buds at Dahlem's Botanical Garden. by Mozart's celebrated opera 17 BeTheenchanted Magic Flute, on tonight at the Staatsoper. a musical lunch break at the 18 Take Philharmonie's free "lunch concert" at 1pm. fans won't want to miss his masterful 19 Picasso paintings at Museum Berggruen. on the famous, dinner-plate-sized 20 Feast schnitzel at the chic Borchardt restaurant. instrument, 4 styles: the Guitar Festival 21 1concert at Passionskirche has lots in store. Ring the doorbell to try the lauded drinks at 22 Buck & Breck, a hidden Mitte cocktail bar. Abba? You'll love the Thank You for the 23 Like Music Abba musical, on at Admiralspalast. the new exhibit at Martin-Gropius-Bau 24 See exploring Martin Luther's lasting influence. to the Philharmonie for chamber music 25 Go from the Tetzlaff Quartet. Britzer Garten to admire the fields of 26 Visit tulips in their springtime Tulipan festival. Sample the rum & cigars at Lebensstern, the 27 classic bar atop Café Einstein Stammhaus. Red Bull Flying Illusion, a gravity-defying 28 See breakdancing show, at Tempodrom. owls: Stop by Konzerthaus for a late29 Night night piano concert from 10:30 'til midnight. Ball im Savoy, a raucous 1930s operetta 30 Enjoy show at Komische Oper.
See listings for addresses and more info.
BEATLES ALBUMS: © ISTOCK. RED BULL FLYING ILLUSIONS: © RED BULL CONTENT POOL; THE AUSTRALIAN PINK FLOYD SHOW: PHOTO BY WENDY WILSON; EASTER BONFIRE: © ISTOCK; TOKIO HOTEL: COURTESY OF PROMOTION; SIMPLE MINDS: COURTESY OF SIMPLE MINDS AND PROMOTION; ACHTUNG BERLIN: COURTESY OF ACHTUNG BERLIN FESTIVAL.
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WHERE NOW | DANIEL GREEN BERLIN BRÜHL
THE OUTLOO A sigh of relief from Annabelle Mallia, as winter breaks and she can marvel at the city’s floral delights once again.
B
erlin is one of the greenest cities in Europe, leaving the locals with a deep longing for nature during the winter-long hibernation. That’s why spring is the most exciting season, when frost-covered ground and barren trees give way to bright leaf buds and beautiful scatterings of crocuses and snowdrops. It’s the best time for long walks to soak up the newfound sunshine and rediscover Berlin’s botanical side.
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A PUBLIC AFFAIR The easy place to start is Tiergarten, Berlin’s "Central Park." Originally the hunting ground of the Prussian royals, the lush park is filled with peaceful walking trails, romantic canals, lush meadows, and even an open-air lamppost museum. In the middle of it, Café am neuen See (Lichtensteinallee 2, www. cafeamneuensee.de) offers a beer garden and restaurant, if you’re in need of refreshments, and boat rentals. Towards the end of April, follow directions on park maps for the Rhododendron-Hain (grove) and you’ll find yourself amongst 3-meter-high bushes in full pink and purple bloom, straight out of a Monet painting. 10 W H E R E B E R L I N I A F EPBRRI LUA 2017 R Y 2017
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OK IS GREEN Green calendar
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1 and 2 Apr: Annual spring market at Botanischer Garten. 9 Apr: Britzer Garten opens. 13 Apr: Gärten der Welt opens. 13 Apr: IGA begins at Gärten der Welt. 16-17 Apr: Cherry Blossom Festival at Gärten der Welt End of Apr: Rhododendron in full bloom in Tiergarten. End of April, date TBA: Tulip exhibition at Britzer Garten.
In the eastern part of the city, the popular Volkspark Friedrichshain abounds with foliage and impressive monuments, including the Märchenbrunnen fountain inspired by the Brothers Grimm’s fairytales. This public park also features Mont Klamott, a hill built out of WWII rubble, providing great views of the surroundings, and the pond-side Café Schönbrunn (www. schoenbrunn.net), perfect for sunny days. WELCOME TO MY GARDEN For strolls with a global flair, don’t miss Gärten der Welt (Eisenacher Str. 99, www. gruen-berlin.de/gaerten-der-welt) in Marzahn, opening again on 13 April. Take in the beauty of 10 culturally themed gardens, from Italian Renaissance to English landscape. The Japanese garden is an absolute highlight come springtime, when its cherry trees are in full bloom. Celebrations break out at the annual Cherry Blossom Festival, scheduled for 16 and 17 April. But the main attraction this year is the International Garten Ausstellung (IGA), a major garden exhibition taking place only every ten years in the surrounding grounds, with more than 5000 botanical events planned over 186 days, as well as cable cars, playgrounds, and marketplaces. Down at the southern end of the city is w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 11
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Clockwise from this photo: cherry trees in full bloom in Kreuzberg; the Fischerhütte beer garden and restaurant on Schlachtensee; the Japanese garden at the Gärten der Welt; the Renaissance garden at the Gärten der Welt.
Neukölln’s Britzer Garten (Sangerhauser Weg 1, www.gruen-berlin.de/britzer-garten) with acres of well-groomed flowerbeds and hilly meadows, a large scenic pond, and plenty of walking trails and playgrounds. The season officially opens on 9 April with their annual spring concert celebrating the first buds, but the garden really comes to life at the end of the month for the spectacular Tulpenschau, with more than one million tulips of hundreds of varieties exploding in color. Check their website for dates as the exact date always depends on Mother Nature herself. Take your desire for nature to the next level and visit the Botanical Gardens (Königin-Luise-Str. 6-8, www.bgbm.org). Their annual spring market on 1 and 2 April, with plant stalls stretching over a kilometer, is a must for garden lovers. As is the spring trail suggested on their website, which will ensure you discover plants from all over the world currently at their most beautiful and take you inside their grand greenhouse complex. In The Thick Of It Grunewald in the city’s southwest is Berlin's favorite forest. It covers 22 square
kilometers and offers not only plenty of nature, but a bit of history too. Its 120-meter-high "mountain," Teufelsberg (Teufelsseechaussee 10, www.neue. teufelsberg-berlin.eu), is the capital’s highest point of elevation. Made entirely of WWII rubble and covering the remains of a Nazi military training school, it offers stunning city views. Atop the hill sits an abandoned US listening station from the old Cold War days. It’s all fenced off, but you can join a tour to take a closer look. On the shores of the Grunewaldsee lake is the Jagdschloss Grunewald (Hüttenweg 100), a Renaissance-era hunting lodge and the oldest Prussian palace in Berlin. Home to a few grand works by German painter Cranach, it is worth a visit for this reason alone. Afterwards, head to the twin lakes of Krumme Lanke and Schlachtensee for a lovely waterfront breath of fresh air. The first will take you about 40 minutes to complete a circuit, while the second requires about two hours, with a rewarding stop at the Fischerhütte restaurant and beer garden at the end. (Fischerhüttenstr. 136, www. fischerhuette-berlin.de)
The Grand Royale For a nobler jaunt, visit Schloß Charlottenburg (Spandauer Damm 2024). The most majestic and famous palace in Berlin, it was built in 1695 by King Friedrich I as a gift to his wife. You can of course pay for a look inside, but I prefer to take a stroll in the surrounding gardens. Its grand Baroque-style flowerbeds, belvedere, mausoleum, and woodlands typical of an English landscape garden are all you need to while away the hours in good old Pride and Prejudice fashion. For a garden on an even grander scale, head to Schloß Sanssouci (www. potsdam-park-sanssouci.de), just outside of Berlin in Potsdam. Modeled after the Palace of Versailles in France, it was built as Friedrich the Great’s place of retreat in intricate Rococo style above a terraced vineyard. To take in its glory all at once, descend the stairs and don’t turn around until you’re at the bottom. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the palace gardens stretch all the way to the New Palace in the western part of the park, with fountains, statues, and temples to admire along the way.
Credit: Previous page: All photos: © istock. This page: cherry blossoms: © istock. Fischerhütte: Gärten der Welt: courtesy of Grün Berlin.
Where now | Green Berlin
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STORES BERLIN: Kurfürstendamm 36 . 10719 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 88 55 35 65 Leipziger Platz 12 /13 Shop 1.04 EG . 10117 Berlin Tel.: (+49) Ø30 / 20 64 79 95
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Where now | Berlin at night
Berlin For Night Owls
T
his is a city that comes alive at night, showing the most colorful, lively, and enchanting sides of its character under the cover of darkness. Whether you’re an avowed night owl, an insomniac, or just shaking off a touch of jetlag, follow these 10 tips to get your long Berlin night started.
10. Midnight Reading Late-night shopping isn’t really a thing in Berlin, with most shops closing up by 8pm. But luckily for bookworms and music lovers, there’s Dussmann (Friedrichstr. 90, www. kulturkaufhaus.de), a massive emporium of books, magazines, music, and stationery right in the heart of Mitte that stays open until midnight. Tucked away through a back atrium is a separate, two-level Englishlanguage bookstore, filled with cozy leather armchairs.
9. After-Hours Art When the clock strikes 12, long after the city’s galleries and museums have locked their doors, is when Video Art at Midnight is just getting started. Since 2008, this monthly series at Kino Babylon (Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 30, www.videoartat-midnight.info) has been welcoming audiences for a free, late-Friday-night screening of video art. The venue is a cool arthouse cinema in Mitte that dates back to 1929. Set your alarm: This month’s event is on 14 April.
8. Beer Around The Clock As everyone knows, it’s far better to drink with company than to drink alone. At Bei Schlawinchen (Schönleinstr. 34), you’re guaranteed to find a few companions at
any hour of the day, since this 24-hour bar has reputedly been open non-stop for the last three decades. Don’t expect cocktails topped with paper umbrellas: This is a dive bar extraordinaire, with the ambience to match. It may be a little rough around the edges, but that’s part of the Kreuzberg charm – and the people-watching can’t be beat.
7. Got The Munchies? There’s something about the post-midnight air that can really make you hungry, and some of the best late-night eating is in Kreuzberg. The original, ever-popular branch of Burgermeister (www.burgermeister.de), tucked beneath the elevated U1 tracks at Schlesisches Tor, stays open extra late (3am weekdays, 4am weekends) to accommodate ravenous bar-hoppers. Not far off is also Konak Grill (Reichenberger Str. 10, www.konakgrill.de), where the specialty is grilled köfte meat patties stuffed into a crusty bun. For that sweet tooth, head to bakeries Melek Pastanesi (Oranienstr. 28) or Salut Backwaren (Schlesische Str. 1), both of which are open all day, every day.
Clockwise from top left: The streets of Kreuzberg at night; creating drinks at Schwarzes Café; a jam session at A-Trane; a juicy burger from Burgermeister; Lichtblick Kino; late-night reading; Kreuzberg nights.
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6. A Touch Of Class(ical) Who said late nights need to be drunken and depraved? The “Late-Night Concerts” series at Konzerthaus, a genteel neoclassical hall on pretty Gendarmenmarkt square (www.konzerthaus.de), brings music and a touch of class to Berlin’s nights. This month’s event on 28 April features pianist Pierre-Laurent Aimard playing pieces by Hungarian composers Ligeti and Kurtág, plus pianist-turned-poet Alfred Brendel reading some of his poems.
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Marlene Dietrich: courtesy of the marlene dietrich archiv, museum for film and television Berlin. All other
Like to stay up late? Take note of Hilda Hoy’s favorite ways to explore Berlin’s late-night, after-hours side.
When it comes to romance, the old-school kind is sometimes the best. For more than a decade, a tiny movie theater in Prenzlauer Berg has been holding up its own special tradition: Every Saturday at midnight, Lichtblick Kino (Kastanienallee 77, www. lichtblick-kino.org) screens one of the most enduring romance films of all time, the 1942 Casablanca. It’s the story of the doomed love between Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman, set against the backdrop of WWII intrigue.
4. Nighttime Views To see a completely different side to late-night Berlin, take the glass elevator to 16th-floor Solar (Stresemannstr. 76, www. solarberlin.com). It’s a thrilling ride as the elevator zips up the outside façade of the building, and outside the windows is a sea of twinkling lights reaching out to the horizon. The kitchen serves fine European cuisine until late, while the classy lounge floor one level above stays open until 3am with a slew of DJs laying down the soundtrack to the unbeatable night views.
Marlene Dietrich: courtesy of the marlene dietrich archiv, museum for film and television Berlin. All other photos: © istock.-
3. Jazz Jams There’s something about improv jazz that perfectly suits the anything-goes feel of the late-night hours. At A-Trane (Bleibtreustr. 1, www.a-trane.de), a venerable Charlottenburg jazz club dating back more than 20 years, there are monthly jam sessions where the tunes are fresh and the entry free, starting at midnight and going well into the wee hours. Don’t miss this month’s jam session on 1 April.
2. All-Night Café A Charlottenburg institution since 1978, Schwarzes Café (Kantstr. 148, www. schwarzescafe-berlin.de) isn’t your typical 24-hour food joint. It’s got style and character, housed in a grand, two-level, turnof-the-century space complete with original decorative stucco and parquet flooring. The scene is mixed and convivial, especially early on weekend mornings when the post-club breakfast crowd streams in.
1. Hit The Clubs Berlin’s club scene hardly needs an introduction, does it? The city’s legendary nightlife is clearly one its major draws. To experience just a taste of the all-night club action, try Berghain (www.berghain.de) for so-hip-it-hurts minimal techno and house, Watergate (www.water-gate.de) for slick crowd-pleasing house, Kater Blau (www. katerblau.de) for youthful, hedonistic party nights, and Tresor (www.tresorberlin.com) for techno of the hyper-masculine, basspounding type. Wherever you go, the party doesn’t really get started until at least 3am, so bring your stamina.
Credit: A-Trane Jazz: CC BY-NC 2.0 via Flickr user Joao M. Nogueira; Lichtblick Kino © Caterina Gili Photography; Burger by Burgermeister, CC BY NC-ND 2.0 via Flickr User Paula Graham; Schwarzes Cafe: CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 via Flickr user Richard Ricciardi. all other photos: © istock.
5. Play It Again, Sam
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Where now | virtual reality
HIstory Through an astonishingly accurate virtual reality tour, Rachel Stern saw Berlin’s former divide when it was still standing.
wind, and the brown and dingy facades of buildings to the east were sharp and vivid. My guide advanced the year to 1979, and suddenly I noticed how much West Berlin had developed, the polished highrise apartment buildings towering above the border, while the unrenovated, wardamaged buildings to the East remained the same. “Fifteen years ago [Berlin Wall] guides would have had photo albums with them, five years ago they would have pulled up photos on a phone, and now we have this incredibly powerful product,” said Brian Fellbusch, co-founder of When in Berlin
Tours. “From five to 80 years old, people seem to get it in a way that they couldn’t otherwise.” To date, about 800 people have gone on the tour, which is offered privately or through a group. The companies worked with several Berlin academics to capture the minute details of the past. They didn’t want to trivialize it, or turn it into a video game. They wanted a way for people to reflect upon history by feeling like they had actually lived it. "It’s a serious topic, and there are still more walls being constructed in the world,” said Fellbusch. “If we have provoked a conversation, we feel like we’ve done our job.”
From top to bottom: A view of the Berlin Wall; the Chapel of Reconciliation, used as a tower for snipers before being blown up in 1985; Views of the Death Strip; Visiting students trying VR.
Check out wheninberlintours.com for details, or email vr@wheninberlintours.com to book.
All photos: when in berlin tours/Time rift tours
I
n the summer of 1961, residents of Bernauer Straße in Mitte watched as a giant barrier was built down the middle of the street, slowly obliterating their view of the other side. The Berlin Wall stood for a full 28 years, splitting friends, families, and neighbors into the capitalist West and communist East. On a frigid February afternoon 56 years later, I stood on the same street, which now hosts a 1.4-kilometer-long memorial with scattered pieces of the once-imposing barrier. Bundled-up tourists read memorial placards detailing deadly escape attempts and visit a reconstructed chapel, once blown up as it stood in construction’s way. As a self-proclaimed history nerd, I’d visited here many times. Yet even standing amid remnants of the past, I had a hard time feeling connected to it. Suddenly, however, that changed. I put on a large set of goggles to begin my first 360-degree virtual reality tour, a collaboration between When in Berlin Tours and Time Rift Tours. My exact location suddenly looked and felt like it did in 1965, as I stood eerily alone in the middle of the Death Strip, the passage between either side of the wall, covered with gravel so that footsteps would be easily detectable. I could see a soldier with a gun, stepping out of his military vehicle and slowly walking towards me. Feeling uneasy, I glanced to the left where a sharp barbed-wire fence, set to electrocute anyone who touched it, laced another layer of concrete. The set-up seemed so real that I could even see dark green tree leaves outside rustling in the
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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE
The colorful "Götterfunken" set by Lilienthal Berlin. Inset, below: Chopard
Perfect timing Watches from Swiss manufactures have rightfully earned their status as the crème de la crème of timepieces. There’s the technical perfection and timeless allure of a Rolex wristwatch (Kurfürstendamm 184), the pure luxury of Chopard (Kurfürstendamm 54, www.chopard.com), and the extraordinary pieces by Maurice Lacroix (Friedrichstr. 166, www.mauricelacroix.com), with particular expertise in chronographs and moon-phase indications. Then there’s Hublot (Kurfürstendamm 56, www.hublot.com), best known for its avant-garde sports watches worn by stars such as Usain Bolt and combining centuries-old craft with innovative technology. However, brands based here in Germany have definitely caught up with the exclusive club of Swiss manufacturers. The undisputed center of the German watchmaking industry,
the town of Glashütte, is once again thriving after half a century of dormancy, having recovered from WWII and communism. This little village near Dresden has a watch company on almost every street. Glashütte Original is particularly noteworthy, as is A. Lange & Söhne, the granddaddy of them all. Using only gold and platinum and astounding attention to detail, it produces some of the best timepieces in the world. A more affordable newcomer thriving in the midst of the old masters is Nomos, mixing Bauhaus style with an element of fun. The Black Forest town of Pforzheim is another watchmaking hub and home to the brand Stowa, selling updated models of the
original Flieger watches worn by Luftwaffe pilots in WWII. Another favorite among adventurers is the Sinn name, said to be able to survive an apocalypse. Their use of clever innovations, such as submarine steel and injected Argon gas, makes the watches almost indestructible. While these brands don’t have boutiques of their own in Berlin, they can be found at luxury jewelry stores such as Wempe (Kurfürstendamm 215, www. wempe.com) and Bucherer (Kurfürstendamm 45, www.bucherer. com). But for a watch with a Berlin heart, check out Lilienthal Berlin. Their lively and colorful designs are all the rage among young Berliners, and can be bought online on www.lilienthal.berlin.
courtesy of Lilienthal berlin and chopard.
The Germans and the Swiss are known for their punctuality. It's no wonder their watch industries are among the best in the world, says Annabelle Mallia.
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THE
Happy
where GUIDELINES
Easter!
This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Every effort is made to provide accurate and updated information. However, information may be subject to last minute changes, so it is always advisable to call ahead.
INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS T: Telephone number S: S-Bahn, Above-ground train system U: U-Bahn, Underground train system MAP LOCATIONS Note that the reference bolded at the end of each listing (A1, B5, etc.) refers to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 63-65. Opening Hours Opening hours may vary, so it’s best to call ahead. Shops are open Mon–Sat only, and Sunday shopping is only possible on certain Sundays of the year. This year, these are: 7 May, 3 September, 1 October, 5 November, 3 December, 17 December. Groceries can be bought on Sundays at major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, at Ullrich at Zoologischer Garten, or Ostbahnhof ). Shopping malls are open 10am–8pm and smaller stores only until 6pm. Tourist Information VisitBerlin is the official source of information on the city. Call T: 030.25002333 for specific Berlin information, or go to www.visitberlin.de for details on all information centers, events, and sights.
Let us invite you to experience our finest confectionery with chocolates, truffles, pastries, candies and our large selection of lovely wrapped Easter presents.
Tourist Info Points: Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz, daily 9:30am–6pm (until 7pm in summer). Hauptbahnhof – Europaplatz 1, Level 0, daily 8am–9pm. TV Tower Alexanderplatz – Panoramastr. 1a, daily 10am–4pm.
Department stores & malls Alexa
#
19 stores in Berlin! Find your nearest Hussel Confiserie.
Voucher
Get your sweet surprise with this voucher – valid April 1st through April 22nd 2017.
Selected shops for the savvy shopper
Hardcore shoppers love this mall for its sheer size, with over 180 stores spread over five levels. Highstreet retailers are well represented, and a large food court obliges when hunger overwhelms your desire to shop. www.alexacentre.com. Grunerstr. 20. T: 030.269340121. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines the shopping with a fun and relaxing experience. The historical building complex in Berlin's west end makes for interesting strolls, also offering beautiful views of the Berlin zoo and its animals, which can be admired both from indoors as well as from the rooftop terrace. But the main attraction is the curated selection of shops, which include individual pop-up boxes frquently showcasing new designers, popular brands, and many design stores. www.bikiniberlin. de. Budapester Str. 38-50. T: 030.55496455. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Designer Outlet Berlin Your favorite designer brands with discounts up to 70 percent, at just 30 minutes from the city center. Also features cafes and restaurants, a children’s play area, free parking and more that 100 international brands. Shuttle bus from center on Fri-Sat. Bring a copy of Where Berlin to the office and get a further 10% off. Mon–Thu 10am–7pm, Fri and Sat to 8pm. www.designeroutletberlin.com. Alter Spandauer Weg 1. T: 033234.9040. Take the regional train to Elstal. Off Map Listings continue on p.22
©istock
courtesy of Lilienthal berlin and chopard.
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TRUE BLUE Claudia Koksch thinks nothing shouts spring more than denim.
1. Sunglasses by Liebeskind Berlin, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12 and Alexa, Grunerstr. 20 and Neue Schรถnhauser Str. 8. 2. Scarf by Codello, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 3. Jeans by Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 4. Shirt by Closed, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 38-50 5. Shoes by Manila Grace, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 48 and Rosenthaler Str. 23. 6. Bag by Guess, Potsdamer Platz Arkaden, Alte Potsdamer Str. 7 and Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 7. Shoes by Liu Jo, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12. 8. Top by Manila Grace, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Str. 48 and Rosenthaler Str. 23. 9. Jeans by 7 For All Mankind, Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12.
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SHOPPING Europa Center This shopping mall on the Ku’damm offers a range of goods from over 70 shops. Check out the ingenious water clock designed by Bernard Gitton in 1982. www.europa-center-berlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9–12. T: 030.26497940. U Kurfürstendamm, U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Galeria Kaufhof The former East German department store, renovated in 2006, showcases more than 600 exclusive brands and an exquisite gourmet section covering 35,000sq.m (377,000sq.ft) of space. www.galeria-kaufhof.de. Alexanderplatz 9. T: 030.247430. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Galeries Lafayette The Berlin branch of the exclusive Parisian department store is developed around an extraordinary glass cone. The three circular floors rise up around this centerpiece, packed with perfumes, clothing, and accessories. The food counter offers a wide range of French specialties and there’s a corner selling teas from the famed French tea house Mariage Frères. www.galerieslafayette.de. Friedrichstr. 76–78. T: 030.209480. U Französische Straße. E3
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) The biggest and oldest department store in Germany sells only products of the highest quality. If you're short on time, the legendary gourmet food
Manufactum
hall on the sixth floor is not to be missed. www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstr. 21–24. T: 030.21210. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
Mall of Berlin 270 shops, 270 apartments, gyms, and pedestrian areas define the new Mall of Berlin on Leipziger Platz, a world of shopping opportunities a stone’s throw from the city’s main tourist attractions. www.mallofberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Potsdamer Platz Arkaden This large shopping center offers more than 120 shops over three floors, stocking everything from clothes and accessories to electronics and groceries. Its restaurants and bars, both inside and in surrounding streets, also make it a very popular meeting spot. www.potsdamer-platzarkaden.de. Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030.2559270. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Their catalogue enjoys an almost cult-like status for its German language prowess, but better still is to visit the store itself. They collect mainly household and garden goods made with traditional manufacturing methods and materials. www. manufactum.de. See website for other locations. Hardenbergstr. 4. T: 030.24033844. U Ernst-Reuter-Platz. B3
FASHION Barbour & Barbour Heritage Store
Showcasing its collection for women, men, and children, this British label has a trendy, rugged look. Customers The quiet Suarezstraße can also enjoy a shopping break with in Charlottenburg tea and coffee on cozy Chesterfield is the place to go for antiques. sofas upstairs. www.barbour.com. Kurfürstendamm 26a.T: 030.88001773. U Uhlandstraße, U Kurfürstendamm. C4 Alte Schönhauser Str. 39. 030.23456828. U Weinmeister Straße. F2
CONCEPT STORES Herrlich Germany’s first concept store for men’s gifts offers unique trinkets that beat socks any day, from an old-fashioned brush-and-blade shaving set to a miniature espresso machine for en route. www.herrlich-berlin.de. Bergmannstr. 2. T: 030.7845395. U Gneisenaustraße. E5
Basler Founded in Berlin in 1936 and now sold around the globe, Basler stands for femininity and versatility, aiming to make women of all ages and sizes look and feel good. From everyday style to business casual to something elegant for a night out, you’ll find plenty to add to your wardrobe. Second store at Schloßstr. 28. www.basler-fashion.com. Kurfürstendamm 220. T: 030.88472949. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
ADVERTORIAL
Spring Has Sprung Flowers, flowers everywhere! It's spring at French design emporium Pylones, with a wide selection of stationery, kitchenware, toys, gift ideas, and accessories inspired by cherry blossoms and blue skies. And with dozens of other patterns and many animal-inspired gadgets and design objects, Pylones is a celebration of color, nature, and joie de vivre! www.pylones.com. Schloßstr. 32/32a. T: 030 92357108. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Kurfürstendamm 225. T: 030 92362488. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3. T: 030 80928130. Daily 10am-9pm.
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Beatrice von Tresckow Sumptuous, elegant, somewhat extravagant. Beatrice Von Tresckow women's clothes are lively and colorful, an eye-catching addition to any wardrobe. www.beatricevontresckow.com, Leibnizstr. 60. T: 030 308318. U Adenauer Platz. C4
ben|weide Modern fashion for the 21st-century man. The Berlin-based label uses only the highest-quality materials and ensures all work is done under fair working conditions. www.benweide.com. Mulackstr. 1. T: 030 40054048. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Boggi Milano Italian elegance for men. Specializes in highquality suits that are formal while also remaining comfortable, and also carries a sport casual collection. www.boggi.com. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOSS The German luxury fashion brand is synonymous with elegance and caters to men, women and kids. www.hugoboss.com. BOSS: Kurfürstendamm 25. T: 030.88624614. U Kurfürstendamm. C4; BOSS: Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3; HUGO: Rosenthaler Str. 49. T: 030.28884550. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2; BOSS: Mall of Berlin. U Mohrenstraße. E3
By Anne By Anne offers designer fashion from sought-after European labels such as cool Danish brand NÜ, Beate Heymann Street Couture, playful Spanish label Uno Piu Uno, and bags from By Lou Lou, together with other accessories to complement your new outfit. Unique art pieces are also on sale to help you express your individuality in the home or garden. www.byanne.de. Rosenthaler Str. 31. T: 030.28879436. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Cinque Exquisite elegance for men and women defines this label, whose products are inspired by the Italian lifestyle and Mediterranean views. www.cinque.de. Rochstr. 1. T: 030.28099999. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
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Cotélac The French just have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are fine fabrics, subtle details and unique prints created with special dye and fabric techniques. Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074. www.cotelac.fr. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
18 0 S H O PS FA S H IO N , ACCESS O R IE S , E LEC TR O N IC S , BO O KS & MUCH M ORE S H O P P IN G
designer depot This boutique in Mitte offers selected designer fashion, shoes, and accessories for men and ladies at up to 50 percent off. There are more than 30 international labels such as Calvin Klein, Iceberg, Roberto Cavalli, and Valentino. www.designerdepot.net. Rochstr. 2. T: 030.28046700. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
www.alexacentre.com |
become a fan of ALEXA
Finn's Mode This tiny store near Savignyplatz stocks a large variety of fashion items with a personality, for women "who know who they are and like to dress well." Brands include Piazza Sempione,
Make it yours.
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SHOPPING Zenggi, Cambio, Le Tricot Perugia, and more, and the selection ranges from dresses and skirts to accessories like shoes and bags. www.finns-mode. de. Bleibtreustraße 47. T: 030.8832202. U Uhlandstraße B4
Frosch & Königin This fairytale store is filled with beautiful things – fashion from 0039 Italy, jewelry by Nicola Hinrichsen, and Day Birger Mikkelsen home accessories, to name just a few. For the woman who has kissed a lot of frogs but still believes in the big love. www.froschundkoenigin.de. Rochstr. 16. T: 030 28873734. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
Ganni Berlin Founded in Copenhagen, Ganni carries easy-to-wear pieces for women with an attitude who like to mix things up. Elegant and effortless clothing, lingerie, accessories, and shoes. www.ganni. com. Alte Schönhauser Str. 6. T: 030.27590966. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
E3; Kurfürstendamm 178. T: 030.8852545. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Michael Sontag The Berlin designer sets himself apart with his masterful draping techniques, creating simple yet flattering feminine silhouettes out of flowing fabrics with equal measures of elegance and sex appeal. www.michaelsontag.com. Muskauer Str. 41. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4
Onepiece A popular Norwegian brand, best known for its jumpsuits, beloved by celebrities. Comfortable pants, hoodies, shirts, and dresses complete the offering. www.onepiece.com. Litfaßplatz 1. T: 030.27580644. S Hackescher Markt. F3
The Wednesday and Saturday market on Winterfeldtplatz is the largest outdoor food market in Berlin.
Goldsteg Designer Outlet This outlet store carries one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, exciting accessories and high-quality Italian leather bags by a wide range of designers. www.goldsteg.de. Carmerstr. 8. T: 030 51307933. S Savignyplatz. B4
Liu Jo Since 1995, this major Italian fashion company has been aiming to bring out every woman’s natural beauty with elegance and quality. Contemporary and glamorous, practical yet professional, Liu Jo’s collection ranges from clothing to shoes to beachwear, including selections for men and children. www.liujo.com. Mall of Berlin. T: 030.20624744. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Marc Cain A worldwide premium brand for women’s fashion with its own production facility in Germany. Marc Cain effortlessly combines aesthetics and innovation in design and materials, making a declaration of love to women. www.marc-cain.com. Friedrichstr. 61. See website for more locations. T: 030.20077219. U Stadtmitte. E3
MaxMara One of the oldest and most prestigious Italian fashion houses, known for its quality craftsmanship and ready-to-wear clothing. www.maxmara.com. Friedrichstr. 184, T: 030.20074945. U Stadtmitte.
Patrick Hellmann
Among the most successful luxury brands in the fashion world, Patrick Hellmann stands for timelessness, elegant designs, quality materials, and extravagant details. There are also clothes by Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. www.patrick-hellmann.com. Kurfürstendamm 190–192. T: 030.88487711. U Adenauerplatz, U Uhlandstraße. B4
Planet Berlin Described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll," the store will have you decked out for your next glamorous night of clubbing. They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr. Martens, as well as new labels like Japan Rags, whose jeans for both men and women have already achieved cult status. www.planetwear.de. Schlüterstr. 35. T: 030 8852717. S Savignyplatz. B4
Strellson This Swiss company creates fashion for men who are on their way up or, as they say, for young men with big plans. Concentrating on clarity, the Strellson philosophy is based on clear cuts and top quality
A Man’s World Known around Germany as the men’s fashion expert for the modern lifestyle, Wormland brings a diverse range of fashion brands to the capital. From newcomers such as Drykorn, Diesel, and G-star to high-end names such as Armani and Calvin Klein, the collection stands for a confident and exclusive style that mixes contemporary looks with classic chic. The offering also includes Wormland's own label Theo, named after Theo Wormland, who founded the company in 1935, and their line of perfume called Identify your DNA, presented to the sound of a personally curated soundtrack from their own music label, for a multisensorial shopping experience. LP12 Mall of Berlin - Leipziger Platz 12. T: 030 229088200. www.wormland.de
for their suits and other urban wears, as well as transparent values and work attitudes. www.strellson.com. Münzstr. 8. T: 030.24724042. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Rebecca Store With a unique boudoir atmosphere, this concept store is a harmonious medley of European and American designers, including Yigal Azrouel, Vera Wang, and Gas Bijoux. All items are personally selected by owner Rebecca Zehden on her many trips abroad. www.rebecca-berlin.de. Alte Schönhauser Str. 41. T: 030 34620780. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
Talbot Runhof Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits and accessories. Discover the comprehensive range of dresses, separates, and knitwear, plus shoes and accessories in their Charlottenburg boutique. A brand hallmark is the complex, precise cuts and unusual seam placement used to create feminine, flattering silhouettes. Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170. www.talbotrunhof.com. U Uhlandstraße, S Savignyplatz. B4
Trüffelschwein The Trüffelschwein man is never overdressed – he simply looks good, with a collection of small niche brands from London, Paris, and New York. www.trueffelschweinberlin.com. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21. T: 030.70221225. U Weinmeisterstr. F2
UNIQLO Originally a chain of roadside stores in suburban Japan, this brand quickly became an Asian sensation and has now expanded to trendy urban hubs around the globe. Their Berlin flagship store has three floors of quality basics and fashion for women, men, and children. www. uniqlo.com. Tauentzienstr. 7. T: 030 29028260. U Wittenbergplatz. C4; Leipziger Platz 16. S+U Potsdamer Platz. E3; Rosenthaler Str. 42; S Hackescher Markt. F3
Wormland This men’s boutique carries the best German and international brands, catering to a demanding man and offering a variety of styles, from classy to casual, from business to sporty. Brands include Calvin Klein, Black Kaviar, Lee Jeans, and Hugo Boss. www.wormland.de. Mall of Berlin. Direct entrance from Voßstraße. T: 030.229088200. U Mohrenstraße. E3
SHOES & ACCESSORIES AIGNER The Munich label is one of Germany’s most important leather accessory brands, combining tradition and
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Jewelry & Watches Aris Diamond Since 1906, ARIS has been specializing in diamond jewelry, delivering everything from pendants, necklaces, and earrings, to fabulous engagement rings. Got a special occasion coming up? Check up their new shop in the Mall of Berlin for refined pieces. www.arisdiamond.com. www.mallofberlin. de. Leipziger Platz 12. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Bodo Dilg Goldschmiede A master in the jewelry field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of historical stucco and cement tiles. An essential stop for soon to wed partners. www.bodo-dilg.de. Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Yours Sincerely
Chopard
Fans of stationery and notebooks will feel right at home at Luiban. This emporium of luxury stationery was conceived in 2013 to provide a sensory experience where products from pen manufactories and paper greats like KaWeCo and Le Typographe could be tangibly experienced. Notebooks, sketchbooks, calendars, letter paper, and even origami paper are complemented by an equally lovely line of fountain pens, ink, and pencils in all colors and sizes. From picture frames designed in Brooklyn to sealing wax made in Bern and pretty washi tape from Japan, Luiban’s curated selection is sourced from all around the world. Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 28. T: 030.88941192. www.luiban.com.
bagatt Milano Bagatt epitomizes the appreciation for beauty for which Italy is known. With its core philosophy of fine Italian craftsmanship, bagatt Milano applies the highest quality standards to its collection of shoes, handbags and accessories. Browse the shelves for contemporary, comfortable looks for everyday wear or elegant heels. Email: bagattberlino@gmail.com. Bikini Berlin: Budapester Str. 38–50. T: 030 25759777. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Boots & Shoes With their air-cushioned sole, lace-up style, and yellow stitching, the popular Doc Martens boots launched in the UK in 1960 wasc based on a prototype by German army doctor Klaus Märtens. Check out many designs and colors of the famous boots at Boots & Shoes, from the classic 1460 model, to shiny blue, or floral print. Ballerinas, booties, clothing, and accessories round off the offering. www.drmartens.com. Dircksenstr. 49. T: 0800.2070700. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Falke Flagship Store This legwear shop caters to both men and women with all kinds of socks, stockings, tights, knee-highs, and anything that will keep your legs warm. They also have a good selection of sports accessories and knitwear, as well as delightful kids’ socks. www.falke.com. Kurfürstendamm 36. T: 030.88553565. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Str. 12. T: 030.20647995. U Mohrenstraße. E3
Michael Kors The New York-based designer Michael Kors is known for his ready-to-wear fashion and luxury accessories – bags, watches, jewelry, shoes, and other award-winning designs. www.michaelkors.com. Kurfürstendamm 219. T: 030.81825760. U Uhlandstr. C4; Rosenthaler Str. 37. T: 030.24088690. F2
MCM Mode Creation Munich crafts luxury leather goods, handbags, apparel, footwear, and accessories. www.mcmworldwide.com. Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946500. U Französische Straße. E3; Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.8811104. U Uhlandstraße. B4; Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. U Weinmeisterstraße. F2
New Era Flagship Store
Lalic Schmuck This family-run jewelry store near Savignyplatz prides itself on having been the first jewelry gallery in Germany. All pieces are carefully selected by owner and expert Maren Meyee-Ringe, who only picks the best handmade items from more than 30 famous goldsmiths and designers. www.lalicschmuckgalerie.de. Bleibtreustr. 47. T: 030.8819762. E3
ROLEX Boutique One of the most famous brands in luxury, Rolex has been making wristwatches since 1905. First created in England, the company soon moved to Switzerland, and its perfect timepieces are recognized worldwide as the ultimate symbol of elegance and refinement. www.rolex.de. www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Uhlandstraße. E2
Wempe
One of the oldest family businesses in Germany is renowned for its passion for fine jewelry and watches, and in particular for its precision timepieces and attention to detail. www.wempe.de. Kurfürstendamm 215. See website for more locations. T: 030.8826878. U Uhlandstraße. Bookstore Dussmann C4; Friedrichstr. 82. T: 030.20399920. has a large EnglishU Französische Straße. E3
Looking for a new cap? This is the largest and fastest growing headwear producer in the world. language section. There are more than 1000 styles over two floors, ranging from the classic baseball cap to modern designs, including Home on Earth their bestseller 59fifty, popular with the skater Located in the historical Hackesche Höfe, this and hip hop crowd. www.neweracap.com. store offers home décor items made from An der Spandauer Brücke 7. natural materials combined with Scandinavian T: 030.27890578. design. Founded by a German-Danish pair in S Hackescher Markt. F2 Barcelona, this is the first store to hit Germany. www.homeonearth.com. Hackesche Höfe/Hof V, Volker Lang Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. T: 030 2834354. The success story of Volker Lang started in 1983 in S Hackescher Markt F2 Hamburg, when he designed his first handbag. A functional, pure look with playful details define his Promobo style, resulting in timeless purses, handbags, and Many of the fun offbeat, eye-catching design other accessories loved by their owners for years and objects, such as jewelry, handbags, and gifts beyond the dictates of fashion. Mulackstr. 37. are made by hand in small workshops around T: 030.284937004. Germany, using plenty of recycled materials like www.volker-lang-accessoires.de. bike inner tubes and cork. www.promobo.de. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
Home Décor
courtesy of luiban
innovation with luxury classics. Choose between handbags, belts, and luxury travel luggage, as well as gift items such as corkscrews, keyrings and backgammon boxes.www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683638. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Jewelry and watches loved by celebrities. This luxury jewelry brand combines Swiss perfection with timeless style for the elite. www.chopard.com. Kurfürstendamm. 186/187. T: 030.70096980. U Adenauer Platz. B4 KaDeWe, Tauentzienstr. 21-24. T: 030.206039830. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
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CLOSED BERLIN BIKINI WOMEN & MEN
CLOSED BERLIN MITTE WOMEN & MEN
closed.com
Budapester Straße 38 – 50, 10787 Berlin
Alte Schönhauser Straße 32b, 10119 Berlin
#closedofficial
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SHOPPING
SIZING GUIDE SHOES UK
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CLOTHES Euro
UK
WOMEN 3 4 5 6 7 8
5 6 7 8 9 10
Belt & Jumpsuit both by Marc Cain Kurfürstendamm 69, Friedrichstr. 61, and Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12 Shoe by Replay Mall of Berlin Leipziger Platz 12
8 9 10 11 12 13
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34 36 38 40 42 44
MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47
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MEN 7 8 9 10 11 12
US
34 36 38 40 42 44
44 46 48 50 52 54
CHILDREN 24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5
4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15
4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13
110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170
Rosenthalerstr. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe 3 & 5. S Hackescher Markt. F2
your own bottle. www.frau-tonis-parfum.com. Zimmerstr. 13. T: 030.20215310. U Kochstraße. E4
www.rausch.de. Charlottenstr. 60. T: 030.20458443. U Stadtmitte. E3
Pylones
Krigler
Hussel
These household products are created to add a spark to our daily lives, filling it with color and fun. The designers choose zoomorphic themes. www.pylones.com. Kurfürstendamm 225 (check website for other store locations). T: 030.92362488. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
From 1905, Krigler’s original perfume shop on Unter den Linden witnessed the flourishing of Berlin’s legendary music scene and the fragrances were appreciated by celebrities such as John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. www.krigler.eu. Adlon Hotel. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030 80494144. S Brandenburger Tor. E3
For more than 60 years, Hussel has been a go-to destination for the sweet-toothed, stocking a mouthwatering assortment of chocolate pralines, truffles, and sweets, from fruit gummies to nougat to marshmallows. Ready to enjoy, or perfect for gifting. Locations across the city, including in Alexa mall at Grunerstr. 20. T: 030. 27576927. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3. Potsdamer Platz Arkaden, Alte Potsdamer Str. 7. T: 030. 25296724. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Yves Delorme Add a Parisian touch to your home with a brandnew set of linens by Yves Delorme, specializing in fine textiles since 1845. The collection includes bed and bath lines as well as exquisite tableware and baby items for the everyday and special occasion alike. www.yvesdelormeparis.com. Kurfürstendamm 51. T: 030.88724777. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
BEAUTY & WELLNESS Babor Specializing in beauty driven by science, Babor creates skincare solutions for every woman’s unique needs. Top-sellers at the flagship store include vitamin-rich skin serums and deluxe foundations with a lifting effect. www.babor.de. Französische Str. 48. T: 030. 20622222. U Französische Straße. E3
Catherine Nail Salon The popular Catherine nailcare brand now has a nail salon here in Berlin. Stop by or make an appointment for some grooming time between shopping and sightseeing. www.catherine-berlin.de. Knesebeck Str. 35. T: 030. 55214475. U Uhlandstraße. E3
Frau Tonis Parfum The perfume boutique offers scents inspired by the city, like Pure Violet, originally composed for Marlene Dietrich. Take a scent test to find the fragrances that suit you best or ask customize
Mühle Traditional shaving culture for the modern gentleman. MÜHLE is a classic German brand with everything needed for the perfect wet shave, like beautiful razors with chrome or tortoiseshell handles and soap brushes with soft badger bristles.www.muehle-shaving.com. Rosenthaler Str. 40–41, Hackesche Höfe IV. T: 030 60269429. S Hackescher Markt. E3
Parfumsalon
Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt The company store teaches about the process of chocolate production through an interactive exhibit, while in the shop you can mix and match chocolate and fillings for that perfect and personalized creation. www.ritter-sport.de. Französische Str. 24 T: 030.20095080. U Französische Straße. E3
An exclusive perfume boutique that has been offering fragrances for more than five decades. The shop's selection include rarities and special aromas, all Easter is sweeter hand-picked by owner and with this festive chocolate perfume expert Mario bunny by HUSSEL Confiserie. Worms. www.parfumsalon. Available at Alexa, Grunerstraße 20, de. Uhlandstr. 173-174. and Potsdamer Platz Arkaden, T: 030.8827306. E3 Alte Potsdamer Str.
ELECTRONICS
FOOD & GOURMET Rausch
Berlin’s undisputed temple of confections features the world's longest chocolate counter and eye-popping sculptures, such as a model Reichstag made from 300kg (660lb) of dark chocolate.
Sennheiser
This German brand stands for innovation in the world of audio electronics, from microphones and speakers to headsets and more. Sennheiser’s cuttingedge wireless headphones in particular are prized by pro musicians, DJs, music fans, and gamers alike. Because hearing is believing, test out all the latest models at the Charlottenburg store. www. sennheiser.com. Tauentzienstr. 17. T: 030.23630162. U Wittenbergplatz. C4
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ADVERTORIAL
The Color Of The Sky
Dive into the spring with Volker Lang's "Vintage Azzurro" collection, including a whole range of light blue accessories for a stylish Berlin exploration.
SHOPPING
find a surprise at volkerlang.de/ surprise
Josephine, sling bag and clutch in one
The specials: iPhone and key holder
Ida, the disco companion
For him and her: Robin
MĂŠnage, the Volker Lang classic
Beauty case Grimage I
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SHOPPING MAPS
Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper
wonderful to wander bikini berlin IMAGE © THINKSTOCK
CONTEMPORARY FASHION, FABULOUS FOOD AND GREAT DESIGN American Vintage | Artek | Bensimon | Carhartt | Closed | GANT | Kusmi Tea Labo.Art | Lakrids by Johan Bülow | Mammut | Mykita | Premiata | Samsøe & Samsøe Scotch & Soda | Teufel / Raumfeld | The North Face | Vans ... and many more exceptional stores and pop up boxes. Bikini Berlin, Budapester Straße 42– 50, 10787 Berlin Zoologischer Garten
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Eu nter rn Ce Satu UNIQLO s Bu l NTZ Yvecher ffa Kurfürstendamm sigua Ap IEN Ro e BO lo ple S D T K R S a i Shoe City A r S Ba Sto stad SSE sk rbo re t M KP rov iser Wittenbergur AM Kä M wa nhe etton D S Be N t he W platz rlin STE Py Sen Ben NIEBUHRSTR. ohlf lone GO FÜR ahrt LEtore EN e s KUR M S S W Uhlandstraße IS e e FALKE TOM ichae Talbot Runhof BR MmE KaDDeW MY l Kor EE i Ka AIGNER S s HIL Wem MOMMSENSTR. teiff F L I G p A Po ER MOMMSENSTR. van COS e rs B Laa TE Ren che D uche Tumi ck Yves Saint Laurent BCBG rer esi éL M g e A Louis Vuitton Lag zar n XA MM erfe d ZR Augsburger Str. Hermès NDA ld Q Parfu IA 208 msa RSTE Ro Ch Ü F B Bo s R lon op ally ent U Val tte K GIE B a hal erlin e r ga SE SØR E Ven ntino d BR Ma SCA eta EC uri DA Bu HT Milano BOGGI c l eL ST ga D acr ri TR. Jens Richard R. oi Jil S olce & RGER S Gucci x LIETZENBU and Ga b Bu er ban MM rbe ENDA a rry Cartier | Campbell | Chanel ÜRST M KURF Ele axM na Adenauer- Pal Mulberry ara M Z MCM | PRADA ile platz ri iro Ermenegildo Zegna ROLEX Boutique
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ROLEX BOUTIQUE
PARFUMSALON
TALBOT RUNHOF
More than a century of precision craftsmanship comes to the Ku'damm in the form of Germany's first Rolex Boutique. The flagship store offers a distinctive experience, including an exclusive setting and world-class service.
This exclusive perfume boutique has been offering extraordinary fragrances since the 1960s. Mario Worms is an expert in perfume counseling, offering advice on the perfect scent for every client, and the shop's selection includes rare bottles and unusual aromas. Uhlandstr. 173-174. T: 030 8827306 www.parfumsalon.de
Designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof launched their label in Munich but have since gone global, branching out from glamorous evening gowns into everyday outfits from dresses, separates, and knitwear to shoes and accessories. Complex, precise cuts create feminine, flattering silhouettes.
Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030 55669010 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de
Schlüterstr. 50. T: 030 23363170 www.talbotrunhof.com
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WINTER ? VIVE LA DIFFÉRENCE. Mademoiselle Maurices Spring Installation 23. 03. — 30. 04. 2017 Wonderful to Wander. Bikini Berlin WB BIKINI BERLIN.indd 1
Budapester Str 42 – 50 10787 Berlin www.bikiniberlin.de
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BELLE REBELLE
The Charlottenburg boutique offers fragrance lovers a break from the everyday, with scents you won't find in your neighborhood department store. Staff are renowned for their expertise, so come prepared to ask your toughest beauty questions. The cosmetics and personal-care products for men and women are as singular as the perfume selection.
Bleibtreustr. 42. T: 030 679672050 www.bellerebelle.de shop stop
CATHERINE NAIL SALON Make a good first impression with beautifully manicured hands. This hotspot for hand and nail cosmetics hinges upon expert beauticians and top-quality products from the Catherine Nail Collection. Delivering to beauty salons worldwide, the brand is renowned in nail design and presents their selection now in their own studio just off Berlin’s luxury shopping strip, the Ku’damm.
Knesebeckstr. 35-37. T: 030 55214475 www.catherine-berlin.de
SAVIGNYPLATZ STR.
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Ernst-Reuter-Platz
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NIEBUHRSTR. Meyer & Nehls
stilwerk Berlin
NST
Spoil yourself at this intimate boutique. Geared towards self-confident, independent women, Meyer & Nehls stocks unique pieces for that special occasion, as well as business and casual attire. If you are looking for fashion advice, owners and style experts Lars and Frank Nehls are there to help.
Savignyplatz
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Set yourself apart from the crowd with fashion and accessories from Planet Berlin, described as "luxury with a touch of rock and roll." They stock classic labels such as Converse and Dr Marten's, as well as new labels like le temps des cerises, whose male and female jeans have already achieved cult status. Get ready for your next glamorous night of clubbing.
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Zeppelin Mode Goldsteg Chapeaux Hüte und Mützen Goldschmiede-Kutzbach Cimp Schmuckdesign Paper & Tea GRO
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BODO DILG GOLDSCHMIEDE
A master in his field, Bodo Dilg creates unique pieces of contemporary jewelry using gold and precious stones against a backdrop of stucco and cement tiles. A stop for soon-to-wed partners, nestled between Savignyplatz and the luxury-shopping strip Ku'damm. Watch the jeweler as he creates masterpieces right in the store, or browse the showroom, designed to make customers relaxed and comfortable.
Grolmanstr. 30/31. T: 030 88675355 www.bodo-dilg.de
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COS Massimo Dutti Wempe Montblanc BABOR
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Quartier 206 Umasan
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MO HR EN ST R. MEISSEN im Hilton Stadtmitte/U2 Gudrun Sjödén
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Manufacturing clothing purely from organically grown natural fibers, founding twin sisters Anja and Sandra apply the highest standards of innovation and sustainability when creating their designs. The focus is on timeless beauty and the art of Japanese cutting, combining flattering silhouettes with precise lines. Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 24085534 www.umasan-berlin.com shop stop
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Inspired by geometric lines and the use of "non-colors" such as black, beige, white, and gray, fashion brand Annette Görtz combines comfort with understated elegance, also adding elements such as embroidered roses and stripes for that extra individual touch. Markgrafenstr. 42. T: 030 20074613 www.annettegoertz.com
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FRAU TONIS PARFUM This perfume manufactory has been described as Berlin’s most unique perfumery. Try classics such as Linde Berlin, or Pure Violet, Marlene Dietrich’s favorite fragrance. For something more personal, join other scent aficionados from all over the world and create your own, private perfume. Zimmerstr. 13 (Checkpoint Charlie). T: 030 20215310 www.frau-tonis-parfum.com www.wheretraveler.com 33
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SHOPPING MAPS COS
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Look 54
Replay
Taschenparadies
Deichmann
H&M
MANGO
Rich & Royal
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Denim & Supply by
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MARC CAIN
Runners Point
Ralph Lauren
Hollister
Marc O’Polo
S & D sons and
DESIGUAL
HUGO BOSS
MASSIMO DUTTI
daughters
Dogo Shoes
Hunkemöller
Mavi
Salamander
Tom Tailor TOMMY HILFIGER Trigema Triumph
Einblick Optik
Intersport
MAX & CO.
Sarar
Engelsrufer & Co.
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Mephisto
Schiesser
TWIN-SET
Esprit
Jack & Jones
MEXX
SCHMUCKRAUSCH
UN1DEUX2TROIS3
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Eterna
JD Sports
Muji
Schuh Bode
Undiz
MANKIND
Calvin Klein Jeans
FALKE
KARL LAGERFELD
NAVYBOOT
SHOE CITY
Vans
Airfield
CALZEDONIA
FASHION CLUB
Kingz
Nike
Shok
ARIS Art of
Casano
Fast Forward
Konplott
Oakley
Sidestep
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Foot Locker
LACOSTE
Olymp
SNIPES
Fossil
LAURÈL
PANDORA
Sportalm Kitzbühel
French Connection
Levi’s
Passionata
SPORTSCHECK
Frisco Jeans
LIEBESKIND
Peek &
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WE-Fashion
Diamond
Change
ARMANI JEANS
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Backlash
CINQUE
Street Shoes
ZARA
Bershka
Claire’s
Lief!
Cloppenburg
STRELLSON
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G-Star Raw
Clarks Ecco
GANT
Liu Jo
Pepe Jeans
Sunglass Hut
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Codello
GINA TRICOT
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Reno
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...and the biggest Foodhall.
Wigglesteps WORMLAND
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Selected shops for the Savvy Shopper ®
Berlin
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A PLACE FOR SHOPPING ARKADEN SHOPS geöffnet Mo.–Sa., 10–21 Uhr POTSDAMERPLATZ.DE
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COTÉLAC The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to style. Laid-back, breezy, comfortable, and nonetheless elegant, the Cotélac collections are created by Raphaëlle Cavalli and capture that quintessential French style in clothing and accessories for both women and men. Brand hallmarks are special dyes and folding techniques, inlays, unique prints, and exquisite detail when it comes to treating fabrics.
ATELIER EINHUNDERT Here you can try on Berlin fashion label Sigorzia and watch designer Silke Gorzialka hard at work. From classic shirts for the office to elegant dresses for a special event, all pieces are handmade in small batches in her onsite atelier.
www.cotelac.fr
With over 100 boutiques in France and abroad, you can check out the latest Spring-Summer 2017 collection in their store on Mulackstraße, Berlin’s so-called designer central.
Mulackstr. 6. T: 030 53604074 www.cotelac.fr
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Torstr. 100. Open Tue-Fri 12pm-7pm, Sat 1pm-6pm. www.einhundert-berlin.de
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Looking for a new cap? The world's leading headwear brand is now the official headwear of the NBA. Check out the latest New Era NBA collection at the New Era store in Berlin.
An der Spandauer Brücke 7. T: 030 27890578 de.neweracap.eu shop stop
CAFÉ GRÜN-OHR It's heaven for the sweet-toothed. The shop and café by Katjes stocks the brand's line of vegetarian-friendly, gelatin-free gummy candy and a rainbow of vegan cupcakes, coffee, and fresh-squeezed juices. And with their Magic Candy Factory, a 3D food printer, customers can easily create their own vegan fruit gum.
Rosenthaler Str. 32. T: 030 97894702 www.katjes.de
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Lala Berlin Rosa-Luxemburg Platz Wolfen Germany Boutique Ganni Berlin E S S A M R V T ULAC OLKE S T S U K Cotélac R LA S AUG Greta NG S TRASSE tore & Luis Ka STE tje INS Trippen TRA sC SSE afé GIPSS Gr TRAS SE ün Onitsuka L REBECCA HIRT O i Be eb SOP ENS Bimba y Lola n S es hr HIE TRA he kin NST SSE Weinmeisterstr. Freitag RAS rman d 11 SE Trüffelschwein Ma Wrangler vi Oakley Promobo Porsche Design Blush Lingerie MÜ Michael Kors N ZST MÜHLE Store Berlin Ad MCM RA Strellson ida SSE Gretchen Store W Anine Bing s B Dr IK ee Home on earth UGGuffa ykor KS kda designer depot l n y UN Pop o Hackesche Höfe IQ -up Boots & Shoes LO Mykita Volution Sports KSENSTRASSE Riccardo Cartillone DIRC MO Frosch & Königin NB IJO New Era Flagship Store UP L. SE Hackescher Markt TRAS S H C RO Onepiece Concept Store
shop stop
OAKLEY Established in 1975 and headquartered in southern California, Oakley is one of the leading sports brands in the world. Known for its sporty line of sunglasses, goggles, and prescription eyewear, Oakley provides insuperable lens technologies featuring high-definition optics, polarized lenses, UV protection, PRIZM technology, and a trademarked switch-lock hinge mechanism. All lenses can be customized according to taste and purpose and mounted on Oakley's extremely light frames, while branded clothing and accessories round off their offering.
Hackescher Markt, Rosenthaler Str. 34. T: 030 23457770 www.oakley.com
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SHOPPING MAPS
LUXURY Brands AIGNER
DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER
www.aignermunich.com. Kurfürstendamm 50. T: 030.88683668. U Uhlandstraße. B4
www.dorothee-schumacher.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030 20946099. U Französische Straße. E3
BALLY www.bally.com. Kurfürstendamm 52. T: 030.88707688. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOGGI MILANO www.boggi.it. Kurfürstendamm 195-196. T: 030.88921730. U Uhlandstraße. B4
BOSS www.hugoboss.com. Friedrichstr. 165. T: 030.20613890. U Französische Straße. E3
BOTTEGA VENETA www.bottegaveneta.com. Kurfürstendamm 59-60. T: 030.70550770. U Adenauerplatz. B4
BUCHERER www.bucherer.com. Friedrichstr. 45. T: 030.2041049. U Kochstraße. E4
BULGARI www.bulgari.com. Kurfürstendamm 190-192. T: 030.8857920. U Uhlandstraße. B4
EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com. Friedrichstr. 169-170. T: 030 20615660. U Stadtmitte. E3
ETRO www.etro.com. Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstr. 71. T: 030.20946120. U Französische Straße. E3
MAURICE LACROIX www.mauricelacroix.de. Friedrichstr. 166. T: 030.33024852. U Französische Straße. E3
MCM www.mcmworldwide.com. Rosenthaler Str. 38. T: 030.28493793. S Hackescher Markt. F2
PAL ZILERI www.palzileri.com. Kurfürstendamm 175-176. T: 030.88910700. U Adenauerplatz. B4
PRADA www.prada.com. Kurfürstendamm 186. T: 030.887110840. U Adenauerplatz. B4
CHOPARD
ROLEX
www.chopard.com Kurfürstendamm 54. T: 030 70096980. U Uhlandstraße. B4
www.rolex.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.55669010. U Adenauerplatz. B4
DOLCE & GABBANA www.dolcegabbana.com. Kurfürstendamm 187. T: 030 33096590. U Adenauerplatz. B4
annette görtz - Store Berlin Markgrafenstraße 42. Tel: 030 20074613 www.annettegoertz.de
ESCADA www.escada.com. Kurfürstendamm 195. T: 030.88923815. U Uhlandstraße. B4
WEMPE www.wempe.com. Kurfürstendamm 184. T: 030.8826878. U Adenauerplatz. B4
Luxury mall Quartier 206 on Friedrichstraße.
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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE
Bärb publi el Högner cation 's the s in “Chan coffee-tab clude Corbu digarh. Liv le book in s and t ier” (Jovis, g with Le Solveig Steinhardt spoke with Le Corbusier expert Bärbel Högner to learn the secrets “Chan he ethno in Englis g h of Berlin's Corbusierhaus. d (Reim igarh nac raphy boo ) h Le C k er, in Ge or corbu After WWII, the need for social housing in Unfortunately, financial restrictions and the long corridors sierha rman). Visit busier” u www m s o b re info er urgent need for flats in the 1950s did not allow that recall a Berlin brought many architects to town for rmatio lin.org for . na the bu the development of the Interbau 57 project for such luxury in Berlin. hospital, or a ilding bout . in the bombed Hansaviertel. One of them prison. But actually
A Vertical Village
What is the concept behind the Corbusierhaus? The basic idea was to keep the ground for open spaces and go vertical in housing, creating a sort of "vertical village." Most of the flats here are maisonettes, so it's like living in a small house inside a big building. Le Corbusier also imagined a completely autonomous social structure, with an internal shopping area and even a swimming pool on the rooftop.
As a resident, do you think the building still has the advantages it was planned to have? Some of Le Corbusier's ideas work very well. The apartments are sunny and well-lit thanks to the east-west orientation and the long windows. Also, the organization is extremely efficient, both technically and financially: you share services and expenses with more than 500 other units. It's also socially interesting. Some residents live in complete anonymity , others create strong neighbourhood relations. And there's another intersting aspect: Apparently, this is not the biggest building unit in Berlin, but it is the biggest with just one entrance. It's a small but psychologically important detail: everybody has to walk through the same door. What is the most unusual thing about it? Visitors are usually shocked when they see the
the interior was inspired by an ocean liner. Personally, I think that the weirdest thing is the building's structural dimension. Imagine: 530 apartments in one block standing on pillars! And it's amazing how diverse life is behind theses masses of concrete. Are there any other interesting architectural spots that you would recommend in Berlin? If one is interested in the 1950s, it makes sense to walk around the Hansa-Viertel. But I also suggest a visit to the “other” modernity on Karl-Marx-Allee, where you can see the socialist version of post-war housing. A comparison of these places in former East and West Berlin reveals the political dimensions of architecture. At Karl-Marx-Allee, I would end my tour with a movie at the GDR-era Kino International.
ALL PHOTOS: © BÄRBEL HÖGNER
was French architect Le Corbusier, who readapted the design of his Unité d'Habitation building in Marseille to the city's needs. His project turned out to be too big for the Hansaviertel, so it was built near Olympiastadion instead. We asked photographer and anthrolopologist Bärbel Högner, who lives in the building, to tell us more about this interesting building.
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM
MAJOR SIGHTS The “Alex” TV Tower The 368m- (1027ft)-high TV tower of Alexanderplatz can be seen from almost any point in the city and has been iconic of Berlin ever since it was built by the GDR in 1969. The giant steel-clad sphere atop houses a revolving restaurant and café as well as a viewing platform. The elevator ride lasts 40 seconds. Arrive early to avoid lines. Daily 9am–midnight (Nov–Feb from 10am). €13/8.50. www.tv-turm.de. Panoramastr. 1a. T: 030.24757537. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
Berliner Dom The city’s neo-Renaissance cathedral was begun in the late 1700s, finished in 1905, and renovated in simplified form after WWII damage. Walk up 267 steps for glorious views of the city from the dome, or stay on the ground floor to gaze at elaborate sarcophagi containing the royal remains of Hohenzollern family members. Thanks to the church’s perfect acoustics and a 7200-pipe organ, the Dom is also an important concert venue. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 9am–8pm (winter until 7pm). €7/5. www.berlinerdom.de. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269119. S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Brandenburg Gate MUST SEE The definitive Berlin icon, Carl Gotthard Langhans’ Neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed the city’s best and worst moments, from the military parades of the Third Reich to the Wall being raised and torn down. Formerly behind GDR borders, today the gate acts mainly as the backdrop for festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, and tourist snapshots. U Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3
Potsdamer Platz Before the war, Potsdamer Platz was the city’s beating heart, with department stores, banks, internationally known theaters, dance halls, and cafés. WWII bombs obliterated 80 percent of the square, which was left in limbo for a few years and then enclosed in a no-man’s-land between the Wall and barbed wire fences. The square came back to life in the 1990s as a modern reinterpretation of its original self. Divided in three slices, it includes the Sony building with its central plaza; Daimler City, home to a large shopping mall; and the Manhattan-style Beisheim Center building. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Reichstag and Foster’s Glass Cupola MUST SEE In the last 100 years, the massive neo-Renaissance building, now the seat of German
Parliament, has been bombed, set on fire, wrapped by artist Christo, and renovated by Lord Norman Foster. Climb the glass cupola for a 360-degree view of the city, then gaze down at parliament in session. The plenary hall can be visited only on guided tours. Cupola: Daily 8am–midnight by appointment only. Free. Register on website; it is recommended to do so at least three days prior to your visit. Audio tours available. www.bundestag.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030.22732152. U Bundestag. D3/E3
HISTORIC SITES Asisi’s Wall Panorama Yadegar Asisi created a panorama of divided Berlin, presenting everyday life against the backdrop of the Wall on an imaginary day in the 1980s. The artist's aim was to show how the population came to terms with the situation, and the result gives onlookers a glimpse of East German life. Daily 10am–6pm. €10/4. www.asisi.de. Friedrichstr. 205. T: 0341.3555340. U Kochstraße. E3/E4
Berlin Wall Documentation Center MUST SEE Walk along one of the few surviving stretches of the Berlin Wall in an area of the city where its impact was particularly dramatic, then delve into its storied history at the documentation center. Documents and original radio broadcasts from both East and West chronicle one of Germany’s saddest historical periods. Open-air
Charlottenburg Palace The summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of King Friedrich I of Prussia, reflects the grandeur of the Hohenzollern family. Begun in 1695, the luxury Baroque complex consists of a main building with a central cupola and two side wings, added in later years, that enclose a courtyard. The picturesque park surrounding the castle includes a formal French-style garden, English garden with pond and statues, belvedere, and mausoleum. The castle hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm). €12/8. www.spsg.de. Spandauer Damm 20-24. T: 030.9694200. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
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Hackesche Höfe An intricate series of interconnected courtyards provides an example of early-19th-century German Secessionist style. The first courtyard is entirely decorated with glazed blue-and-white tiles in geometric designs, while the apartment buildings and narrow, maze-like alleys lined with cafés, shops, and theaters give the Höfe an atmosphere both familiar and fascinating. Rosenthaler Str. 40-41. S Hackescher Markt. E2/F2
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche
PHOTO COURTESY OF BAUM UND ZEIT
ALL PHOTOS: © BÄRBEL HÖGNER
and the area still retains its ancient character, although most of the buildings in the narrow medieval alleys are replicas of destroyed originals that dated back to the 1200s. The late-Gothic Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest surviving building, is now a museum. Other points of interest include the Ephraim Palais Museum and the Biedermeierstyle Knoblauchhaus, a 19th-century middleclass townhouse that escaped WWII damage. Knoblauch Haus: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. www.knoblauchhaus.de. Poststr. 23. T: 030.240020171. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
The church’s bombed-out bell tower has been an anti-war memorial and symbol of West Berlin ever since its ruins were restored to their present state in 1957. The old church now hosts an exhibition of before-and-after photos documenting its and Ku'damm's former splendor. Inside, look up to admire what remains of the old mosaic. Daily 9am–7pm. www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Breitscheidplatz. T: 030.2185023. U Zoologischer Garten, U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Nikolaiviertel and Knoblauchhaus The Nikolaiviertel is where Berlin was born,
Healing Treetops If you’ve ever visited Beelitz-Heilstätten, you’ll already know the eerie charm this place holds. This sanatorium and park were built at the end of the 19th century as a place of recovery for Berliners suffering from tuberculosis, offering woodlands and fresh air. During the two world wars, the building served as a German military hospital (Hitler was its most famous patient,) and in 1945, it was taken over by the Red Army, remaining the largest military hospital outside of the USSR until 1994. Since then, the site’s impressive architecture has been left to decay, and the best view of this fading glory is from the Baumkronenpfad Baum & Zeit. This path takes you on a 23-meter-high journey back in time over the treetops and the ruins, offering tidbits of information here and there about the history of the sanatorium and life of the patients. The 36-meter high observation tower also provides a striking view of the surrounding landscape. Opening times are usually from 10am to 7pm, but on 9 April early birds can join the sunrise tour and bird concert. Straße nach Fichtenwalde 13, Beelitz-Heilstätten. T: 033204.634723. www.baumundzeit.de www.wheretraveler.com 39
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SIGHTSEEING Dungeon provides a terrifying interactive journey through the city's dark past via a sometimesspooky, actor-led experience. Visitors are taken through attractions such as the old library of Berlin, a plague-infected street, a torture chamber, a secret court, and more. Not recommended for young children. Daily 10am–6pm (winter weekends until 5pm). €20.50/12.30(discount when booking online). Under-14s must be accompanied by adult. Combined LEGOLAND, Madame Tussauds, and Sea Life tickets available. www.thedungeons.com. Spandauer Str. 2. S+U Hackescher Markt. F3
ADVERTORIAL ADVERTORIAL
Berlin Zoo and Aquarium
So Much Fun, It's Scary! Berlin Dungeon is a uniquely thrilling attraction that will whisk you way back into the city’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the chillingly amusing characters of the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you. Will you lose yourself in fear or in mirth? Either way, it’s not looking good for your underwear. Surprises await you, for the past is dark and full of scares. Will you escape the deadly plague AND get a double seat on the rebellion boat ride? Uncover the legend, the ‘leg end’, as well as the rest of the body of the dreaded WHITE LADY. Meet Karl Grossman. He’s dying proof that murder loves company. Berlin Dungeon. Spandauer Str.2. www.thedungeons.com/berlin. S+U Alexanderplatz or Hackescher Markt exhibition: 8am-10pm daily; documentation center: Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. Free. www.berliner-mauergedenkstaette.de. Bernauer Str. 111. U Bernauer Straße. E2
Checkpoint Charlie During the Cold War, Checkpoint Charlie was the main gateway between East and West. Shortly after the Wall went up, US and Soviet tanks faced each other on this spot. Today, the crossing point acts primarily as a backdrop for tourist photographs. U Kochstraße, U Stadtmitte. E3/E4
East Side Gallery While West Berliners loved to express their creativity by drawing graffiti and painting on the Wall, East Berliners were never allowed to use the dividing structure as a canvas. To make up for all the artless years, artists from 21 countries were called upon in 1990 to decorate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
Holocaust Memorial MUST SEE Berlin’s tribute to the victims of the Holocaust is as big as a soccer field and consists of 2711 tombstone-like slabs of equal size and varying heights, placed on uneven ground to convey a sense of claustrophobia and disorientation. The underground information center provides a timeline of Jewish persecution. Accessible 24 hours a day. Free. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Cora-Berliner Straße. T: 030.2639430. U Brandenburger Tor. E3
MUST SEE One of the city’s main attractions and the oldest zoo in Germany includes pavilions that provide ample indoor space, making the venue suitable for rainy days. The zoo boasts the largest number of species and total animal residents in the world. The aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, features large tanks with piranhas, sharks, and alligators. Daily 9am–6:30pm. Zoo or aquarium: €14.50/7.50, under-4s free. Combined ZooAquarium ticket: €20/10. www.aquarium-berlin.de, www.zoo-berlin.de Hardenbergplatz 8. T: 030.254010. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
Children’s Museum MachMit MUST SEE The hands-on children’s museum offers a climbing structure, a maze, a soap-making workshop, a cinema, and lots of activities to encourage discovery through playing. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5.50 for all over-3s. www. machmitmuseum.de. Senefelderstr. 5/6. T: 030.74778200. S Prenzlauer Allee. F1
Currywurst Museum Learn about Berlin’s most famous street food at this small but entertaining museum. Delve into Currywurst history, discover the secrets of its yellow sauce in the "spice chamber," and watch movies starring the delicious sausage. Daily 10am–8pm. €11/7, under-6s free. www.currywurstmuseum.de. Schützenstr. 70. T: 030.88718647. U Kochstraße. E4
Stasi Prison
MUST SEE Between 1945 and 1989, more than 20,000 people suspected of opposing the East German political system were arrested by the Stasi (secret police) and brought to this custody building. In its first and darkest years, the prison’s cellars, known as “the submarine,” were used to inflict psychological torture on the inmates, while Madame Tussauds the relatively more humane cells are on the upper Have your picture taken with Angela Merkel, Albert floors, next to a seemingly never-ending corridor Einstein, One Direction, or a host of other famous lined with interrogation rooms. Tours in English on names in entertainment and politics. And, yes, Wed, Sat, and Sun at 2:30pm in winter, daily at there's even a wax Adolf Hitler, depicted 11:30am and 2:30pm in summer. €6/3. as a little man standing in despair in en.stiftung-hsh.de. Genslerstr. 66. his bunker during his final days. T: 030.98608230. S Landsberger Daily 10am–7pm (Aug until 8pm). Allee, then Tram M5 to €23.50/18.50, discounts if you Freienwalder Str., then 10-minute book online. Combined Berlin Four Germans set a Guinness walk. Off Map Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Sea
Topographie des Terrors MUST SEE On the site of the
World Record in November 2014 by traveling all 173 U-Bahn stations in Berlin in 7 hours, 33 minutes and 15 seconds.
former headquarters of the SS and the Third Reich’s most important offices, this permanent exhibition recounts the tragic history of Nazi forced labor, focusing on the central institutions of the SS and Third Reich police and the crimes they committed throughout Europe. A segment of the Wall runs along the grounds. Daily 10am–8pm. Free. www.topographie.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 8. T: 030.2545090. U Kochstraße. E4
Kids & Families Berlin Dungeon Much like the London Dungeon, the Berlin
Life tickets available. www.madametussauds.com. Unter den Linden 74. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Sea Life & AquaDom Dazzling clownfish, scary sharks, crawling spider crabs, and quirky seahorses are just some of the 5000 creatures inhabiting this small but interesting aquarium. Discover the ethereal dance of the jellyfish and observe the eagle rays on your way to the Aquadom, a 16m-tall cylindrical tropical fish tank that can be viewed from a slow elevator. Daily 10am–7pm. €17.95/14.50 (discounts when booking online). Under-3s free. Combined Berlin Dungeon, LEGOLAND, and Madame Tussauds tickets available. www.visitsealife.com. Spandauer Str. 3. S+U Alexanderplatz. F3
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SIGHTSEEING Tempelhof Airport Park MUST SEE What used to be the city’s most central
airport is now a four-hectare (10-acre) public park whose six kilometers (3.75 miles) of runways are used for cycling, skating, and a variety of other sports. This is where many Berliners spend their weekends, bringing BBQ equipment or just picnicking on the grass while their kids fly colorful kites. Tempelhofer Damm. S Tempelhof, U Platz der Luftbrücke, U Boddinstraße. Off Map
Tiergarten Park Created as hunting grounds for the Electors of Brandenburg, the park we know today was designed in the early 1800s by landscape architect Peter Joseph Lenné and includes a pond with boat rentals and a café, as well as many pleasant trails to explore. The park also houses a zoo, a number of embassies, and the Schloss Bellevue, the residence of the President of Germany. S Tiergarten, S Bellevue. C3, D3
Tours & GUIDED Walks Berlinagenten These luxury tour agents specialize in “urban lifestyle guidance,” introducing their clients to exclusive locations, people, shops, and clubs. Offerings include a “Pimp Me Up” spa and makeover tour, culinary experiences, private house visits, limo tours, and – for an authentic urban experience – a graffiti workshop. From €300. www.berlinagenten.com. Bornholmer Str. 4. T: 030.43720701.
Berlin Music Tours Choose from a score of music-themed tours, including a visit to the famous Hansa Studios, a musical walk through Prenzlauer Berg, a David Bowie journey, and a classic trek through the colorful history of Berlin music. Booking required. From €12. www.musictours-berlin.com.
GDR. Visitors drive their personal Trabis, while, via the car’s radio, the group leader provides historical and quirky facts. Three different tours available, lasting one or two hours. €30-50. www. trabi-world.de. Zimmerstr. 97. T: 030.30201030. orate one mile of the Wall's eastern segment with their work, creating what is now known as the East Side Gallery. Mühlenstraße. S+U Warschauer Straße, S Ostbahnhof. G4
Potsdam Biosphäre Potsdam This tropical indoor garden features a greenhouse with more than 20,000 plants, including a palm grove and mangrove swamp, as well as animals such as iguanas, parrots, geckos, frogs, and butterflies. Daily Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, from 10am on weekends and holidays. €11.50/9.80. Under-3s free. www.biosphaere-potsdam.de. Georg-Halemann-Allee 99. T: 0331.550740. Tram 96 from Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map
Filmpark Babelsberg In the early 1900s, the Babelsberg film studios produced some of the most important films of the silent era, including Metropolis, until the facilities were taken over by the Nazi regime to produce political propaganda. Today, the studios are still in use, but part of the complex has been turned into a theme park, with old sets, stuntmen, special effects, and children’s sections dedicated to popular TV characters. Daily 10am–6pm from April to October, closed Mon in May and on Mon and Tues in September, on 6 and 13 October. €21/14,
under-4s free. www.filmpark-babelsberg.de. Grossbeerenstr., Potsdam-Babelsberg. T: 0331.7212750. S Griebnitzsee. Off Map
Sanssouci MUST SEE The sumptuous Rococo castle of Potsdam's Sanssouci was commissioned in 1745 by Frederick the Great, who wanted "a place to be without cares." The king of Prussia employed the finest architects of the day to design the Baroque park, the Schloß placed above terraced vineyards, the more sober New Palace, and a few other pavilions scattered in the park. Daily 10am–6pm (winter until 5pm); Mon closed. €15/11. www.spsg.de. An der Orangerie 1, Potsdam. T: 0331.9694200. S Potsdam or regional train from Zoologischer Garten to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof. Off Map
River Trips Exclusiv Yachtcharter This boat tour company offers yacht and luxury boat tours around Berlin, including a bridge tour and many different cruises through Berlin’s network of canals and lakes. www.exclusivyachtcharter.de. T: 030.43666836.
Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt Choose from 30 different boat tours along the city’s rivers and canals, including bus-boat combination tours of the Brandenburg region. buchung.sternundkreis.de. T: 030.5363600.
ADVERTORIAL
Berliner Unterwelten (Underground Tours) Since 1997, the Berlin Underworlds Association has been offering regular tours of underground structures and subterranean complexes that are otherwise inaccessible. Cold War nuclear shelters, Hitler’s underground fortress, escape routes to the West, and WWII bunkers are just some of the adventures on offer. From €10. www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Brunnenstr. 105. T: 030.49910517.
CooLTourings Segway Tours Covering Berlin’s top 20 sightseeing highlights, CooLTourings takes individual visitors or large groups on an exciting ride aboard a Segway, a fun and fast way to explore the city. www.seg-berlin-ways.de.T: 030.26321381.
Fat Tire Bike Tours Comfort comes first on Fat Tire Tours, whose company concept was created around its curvy bicycles with soft seats, individually adjusted handlebars, and, obviously, fat tires. Tour themes vary. The all-in-one city bike tour is particularly popular. Times vary seasonally. Call ahead in winter. From €25. www.fattirebiketours.com. Panoramastr. 1a.T: 030.24047991.
Trabi World For a quintessential Berlin tour experience, hop inside real Trabants, the iconic cars of the former
Highlights At Madame Tussauds Instead of just fantasizing about your dream date, why not meet them up close and personal at Madame Tussauds? The one-of-a-kind interactive exhibition lets you walk down the red carpets of the world and immerse yourself in the lives of all your favorite stars, using elaborate sets and costumes plus technology like Augmented Reality. Snuggle up with a shirtless Justin Biber, rock out with Taylor Swift, and shoot some selfies with George Clooney or Robert Pattinson. From sports heroes to Hollywood stars, they’re all there in the famed collection of more than 120 wax figures. The newest addition to the Dream Dates series: Zac Efron chilling out at the beach. Madame Tussauds Berlin: Unter den Linden 74. T: 01806 545800. S+U Brandenburger Tor. www.madametussauds.com/berlin
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Clockwise from this photo: The Pergamon Museum; The Alte Nationalgalerie; The Bode Museum; the Altes Museum. Inset, below: back view of the Pergamon Museum.
From Antiquity To Now Serene Tseng spends a day indoors, enjoying the exhibitions on Museum Island. No trip to Berlin would be complete without a visit to Museum Island and its famed institutions’ exhibitions. One of the defining landmarks of the German capital, the island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is also the spot where Berlin was founded about 800 years ago. The oldest museum on the island is the Altes Museum (p. 43), situated right next to the Berliner Dom. Known for its collection from classical antiquity, the museum houses Greek and Roman sculptures, which adorn the main floor, and numerous works of Etruscan art on the upper floors. In the current special exhibition, Dangerous Perfection – Ancient Funerary Vases from Apulia, running until 18 June, illustrations and paintings on the two-millennia-old vases illuminate the funerary practices of the southern Italian indigenous population. Fans of Caspar David Friedrich’s melancholy
romanticism and of the his19th-century contemporaries will enjoy spending a few hours at the Alte Nationalgalerie (p. 43). The gallery’s three floors are home to nearly 2000 Romantic, Impressionist, and Realist paintings and sculptures. Up until 30 July, the exhibition Small Masterpieces will be showing miniature masterpieces from 19th-century artists such as Anselm Feuerbach and Hans Thoma, with many pieces that have never been exhibited before. Next door from the Alte Nationalgalerie is the Pergamon Museum (p. 45). Although it is partially closed for restoration, visitors can still admire the comprehensive collection of Islamic, Middle
Eastern, and Ancient Art. Further down at the head of the island, rising majestically from the Spree River, is the Bode Museum (p. 43). The museum is home to the capital’s Byzantine art collection, with works dating back to the Eastern Roman Empire, as well as a substantial numismatic collection, with coins and monetary tokens from the beginnings of humanity to the present day. In a relevant fusion of themes, Art Coins Money, running until 27 May, questions the existence of art, uncorrupted and independent of money and power. The three-part special exhibition explores artistic autonomy in a capitalist art market, the re-imagination of medallions, and art about money.
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Alte Nationalgalerie Museumsinsel Berlin-Mitte © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Foto: Maximilian Meisse; Bode-Museum Museumsinsel Berlin-Mitte © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Foto: Atelier Tesar; Pergamonmuseum. Altes Museum Museumsinsel Berlin-
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE
Altes Museum Berlin’s collection of classical antiquities, housed inside a breathtaking Neoclassical building. Take in the mosaic floor of Hadrian’s villa, a wealth of Greek sculptures, and a number of Etruscan and Roman finds. To 18 Jun: Dangerous Perfection: Antique grave-vases from Apulia. Featuring 13 largescale vases from the indigenous population of southern Italy 2,500 years ago. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www. smb.museum. Am Lustgarten. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Alte Nationalgalerie A splendorous collection of 19th-century art. To 30 Jul: Small Masterpieces features masterpieces small and miniature in size. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6 with exhibition, €10/5 museum only. www.smb.museum. Bodestr. 1–3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Bauhaus Archiv The avant-garde building designed by Walter Gropius is home to documents, photographs, and models illustrating the Bauhaus philosophy, which combines artistic beauty with architectural functionality. To 18 Sep: Jasper Morrison. Thingness. A retrospective of Morrison’s work and design. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Sat–Mon €8/5, Wed–Fri. €7/4. www.bauhaus.de. Klingelhöferstr. 14. T: 030.25400278. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Bode Museum An extensive collection of Old Masters’ paintings, a section dedicated to ancient coins, and many works of Roman and Byzantine art adorn the MGB17-03_Anz_whereBerlin_118x124mm_.indd 1 museum’s impressive interior, built by Ernst von Ihne in 1904. To 27 May: Art Coins Money: MUSE POWER MONEY examines the interaction between art, money, and power. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www.smb.museum. Am Kupfergraben. T: 030.266424242. U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
Hundreds of listings every month
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Bröhan Museum Starting in 1966, collector Karl Bröhan amassed hundreds of Art Nouveau and Art Deco objects and various paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement. Browse through pieces of furniture, housewares, ceramics, and glassware from this fascinating artistic period. To 21 May: Jan Toorop. Song of the Times. Presenting the oeuvre of the famous Dutch symbolist. To 23 Jul: Kieser, Posters. Celebrating the innovations of one of Germany’s most prolific graphic designers. Open Tue–Sun 10am–6pm www.broehan-museum.de. Schloßstr. 1a. T: 030.32690600. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Brücke Museum Founded in Dresden in 1905, the Die Brücke movement drew inspiration from primitive art and expressed extreme emotion and political opposition through lively, exaggerated color. Features the paintings of such artists as Emil Nolde and Erich Heckel. To 3 Sep: The Artists of Die Brücke – Paintings, Illustrations, and Prints. An interchanging selection of prints and paintings, in celebration of the museum’s 50th anniversary. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. €5/3. www.bruecke-museum.de. Bussardsteig 9. T: 030.8312029. U Oskar-Helene-Heim. Off Map
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Alte Nationalgalerie Museumsinsel Berlin-Mitte © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Foto: Maximilian Meisse; Bode-Museum Museumsinsel Berlin-Mitte © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Foto: Atelier Tesar; Pergamonmuseum. Altes Museum Museumsinsel BerlinMitte © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Foto: Maximilian Meisse; Pergamonmuseum (Eingang) Museumsinsel Berlin-Mitte © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Foto: F. Friedrich; Museumsinsel Berlin. Eingang über BodestraSSe 1-3. © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin
Museums
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
A Whole Weekend Of Art Spring is a time of transformations in more ways than one. Every year, scores of the city’s best galleries come together on the last weekend in April to open their new exhibitions in a citywide extravaganza called Gallery Weekend (28–30 April). This year’s edition includes nearly 50 participating venues, each of which can be visited for free on Friday, 28 April, from 6–9 pm, and from 11am–7pm on Saturday and Sunday. The best way to take part in the action is to focus on one of the city’s art districts and then meander from one exhibition opening to the next on foot, following the crowds. Mitte’s ever-popular gallery district between Hackescher Markt and Rosenthaler Platz is a good place to start, including the venerable Sprüth Magers (Oranienburger Str. 18, www. spruethmagers.com), which will be opening a show by Lucy Dodd and Pamela Rosenkranz. Auguststraße and Linienstraße are filled with galleries, such as Eigen + Art (Auguststr. 26, www.eigen-art. com) and neugerriemschneider gallery (Linienstr. 155, www. neugerriemschneider.com). The equally high-caliber gallery district around Potsdamer Straße in the Tiergarten district includes Blain|Southern (Potsdamer Str. 77-87, www.blainsouthern.com) and the Tanya Leighton gallery (Kurfürstenstr. 156, www.tanyaleighton. com), both very much worth a visit for all art aficionados. www.gallery-weekend-berlin.de
Learn about daily life in the former East Germany at this hands-on museum. Closets filled with GDR (DDR in German) fashion and a Trabant (the GDR car) are just some of the items on display, while photographs illustrate Communist habits, such as collectively potty-training babies or going on nudist holidays. Mon–Sun 10am–8pm, Sat until 10pm. €7/4. www.ddr-museum.de. KarlLiebknecht-Str. 1. T: 030.847123731. S Hackescher Markt, U Alexanderplatz. E3
Deutsches Historisches Museum MUST SEE Learn about the milestones in German history from the Roman occupation of the Germanic areas to the present day. To 14 May: German Colonialism, Fragments of Its Past and Present confronts the controversial topic of Germany’s colonial past. Daily 10am–6pm. €8/4 (under-18s free). www.dhm.de. Unter den Linden 2. T: 030.203040. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Deutsches Technikmuseum MUST SEE At the museum for all things
technology, the old locomotives and aviation rooms are the most popular attractions, while a Rosinenbomber, a 1948 Berlin Airlift aircraft, is mounted on the museum’s roof. A hands-on section allows kids to conduct experiments. To 4 Apr: From Department Store to Tacheles. Photographs of the Friedrichstraßen-Passage. A photographic documentation of the life of this historic landmark. To 2 Jul: Oceans – An Expedition in Unexplored Depths. Featuring photographs of the enormous blue world. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €8/4. www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Str. 9. T: 030.902540. U Möckernbrücke, U Gleisdreieck. E4
The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous
fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3
The Gay Museum (Schwules Museum)
times, the institute known in English as the Museum of Prints and Drawings boasts 150,000+ pieces, including masterpieces by Botticelli, Dürer, and Goya. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am– 6pm. €6/3. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
One of the world’s largest and most significant Martin-Gropius-Bau institutions for archiving, researching, and MUST SEE One of the city’s best art and communicating the history and culture of LGBTQ photography exhibition spaces and an important communities. Changing exhibitions take diverse example of early 20th-century architecture, the approaches to lesbian, gay, transsexual, imposing building combines Italian bisexual, and queer biographies and Renaissance elements with local concepts in history, art, and culture. features, such as mosaics of Sun–Mon, Wed–Fri 2–6pm, Thu allegorical figures. From 12 Apr: 2–8pm, Sat 2–7pm. €6/4. The Luther Effect. Protestantism – 500 www.schwulesmuseum.de. Years in the World. Honoring the The Stasi Museum in Lützowstr. 73. T: 030.69599050. Reformation’s 500th anniversary, Lichtenberg showcases U Nollendorfplatz. D4 telling the story of its legacy some of the spying
Jewish Museum MUST SEE Daniel Libeskind’s
instruments once used by the East German secret police.
architectural jewel, shaped as a deconstructed Star of David, explores millennia of German Jewish history, including the alternating glories and persecutions of the community. Daily 10am–8pm, Mon until 10pm. €8/3. www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstr. 9-14. T: 030.25993300. U Hallesches Tor, U Kochstraße. E4
Käthe Kollwitz Museum Introduces the powerful and tortured art of one of the most relevant German women artists of the last century. Her primary focus was the daily struggles of the poor and the tragedy of war. Featuring works from Kollwitz’s most intensive and emotionally-charged years. Daily 11am–6pm. €6/3. www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. Fasanenstr. 24. T: 030.8825210. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Kupferstichkabinett MUST SEE With a collection begun in 1652 by the Great Elector and works dating back to medieval
worldwide. From 20 Apr: Juergen Teller. Enjoy Your Life! Featuring 250 works of one of the most soughtafter music and fashion photographers. Wed–Mon 10am–7pm. Prices vary by exhibition. www.gropiusbau.de. Niederkirchnerstr. 7. T: 030.254860. U Kochstraße. E4
Museum Berggruen MUST SEE A can’t-miss for Picassophiles. The Spanish painter is the star of this Charlottenburg museum, which boasts dozens of rooms filled with his paintings. The collection encompasses 75 years of his life and all of his creative phases. Expanded in 2013, the museum also features many famous works by Matisse, Klee, Giacometti, Van Gogh, Cézanne, and many more. To 12 Mar: George Condo. Confrontation. A retrospective of the American painter’s oeuvre. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 1. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Museum of Photography Diverse and comprehesive exhibitions curated
Photo courtesy of Gallery Weekend, Galerie Thomas Schulte
DDR Museum
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People, Cables, Data Streams
wall basics Here’s our little guide to the five most important Wall sights in town.
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To see what the Wall really looked like in all its gray and intimidating might, visit its last remaning untouched stretch at the Gedenkstätte Berlin Mauer, between Nordbahnhof and U Bernauer Straße.
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For a more colorful stretch of the infamous barrier, check out the mural paintings on the East Side Gallery (S+U Warschauer Str.), painted by artists in the early 1990s.
A new exhibition about the networked world For explorers!
Those running short of time can still admire a still-standing portion of the Berlin Wall without leaving the center, on the western side of the Topographie des Terrors grounds in Niederkirchstraße.
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If you want a more emotional Wall experience, artist Yagedar Asisi did a fantastic job recreating the Wall atmospheres, views, and noises on an October day in 1980 in his Wall Panorama installation in Friedrichstrasse DTM_Anz_Netz-118x124_FINAL.indd (www.asisi.de).
om n.c sig hde rap e g ly .d : po ege tion chla stra ans Illu g: B / taltun T D s © S Ge
A world of exhibitions
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Now that you’ve seen the main views, go pro by examining the rest of the Wall at the so-called “Wall cemetery,” an abandoned field in Teltow (Oderstraße, S Teltow Stadt then bus X1), just outside of Berlin, where the city placed dozens of Wall slabs, some artfully painted, some gray, all surrounded by overgrown grass.
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Trebbiner Str. 9, 10963 Berlin | Entrance Ladestrasse | Möckernstr. 26 | www.sdtb.de
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Photo courtesy of Gallery Weekend, Galerie Thomas Schulte
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES from the Berlin Art Library’s vast photographic collection are housed in a Neoclassical 1909 building built for the Prussian army’s officer corps, whose lower two floors are occupied by the Helmut Newton Foundation. To 2 Jul: ‘The Field Has Eyes…’: Images of the Surveillant Gaze. A presentation of surveillance, from the 16th to 20th century. To 2 Jul: Watching You, Watching Me. A Photographic Response to Surveillance. Raising important questions of the blurred lines between public and private in our surveillance culture. To 14 May: Alice Springs: The MEP Show/Helmut Newton: Yellow Press/Mart Engelen: Portraits. Portraits and street photography from Alice Springs, the widow of Helmut Newton; Helmut Newton’s paparazzi and police photography; and Dutch artist Mart Engelen’s film noir-inspired black-and-white portraits. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.266424242. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3–C4
Museum für Naturkunde Home to the world’s largest dinosaur skeleton, the natural history museum also features extensive collections of shells, insects, and prize-winning
mounted animal dioramas. Tue–Fri 9:30–6pm, Sat– Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Invalidenstr. 43. T: 030.20938591. U Naturkundemuseum. E2
Museum Story of Berlin Almost 800 years of Berlin history arranged into 23 rooms, each describing a different theme or era and an atomic bunker for visitors to better understand the WWII air raid experience. An entertaining way to learn about the development of the city. Open daily 10am–8pm. €12/5. www.story-of-berlin.de. Kurfürstendamm 208. T: 030.88720100. U Uhlandstraße. B4
Neues Museum MUST SEE The 3300-year-old bust of Queen Nefertiti is the museum’s top attraction. Examine a world-famous Egyptian collection that includes many important papyruses, while hundreds of artifacts relate early human history. Badly damaged during WWII and left abandoned until the 1980s, the museum reopened in 2009. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €12/6. www. neues-museum.de. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3
Pergamon Museum One of Berlin’s main attractions, the Pergamon houses the outcome of Germany’s early-20thcentury archeology excavations. The imposing Ishtar Gate of Babylon with its glazed blue bricks is a feast for the eyes, as are the Market Gate from Myletus, the reconstructed interiors of an Assyrian palace, and many other splendorous testimonies to the ancient world. The altar room is closed for restoration through 2019. To 2 Apr: The Heritage of the Ancient Kings. Ctesiphon and the Persian Sources of Islamic Art. An exhibition tracing the origins of Islamic art and cultural heritage. www.smb. museum. Bodestr. 1-3. T: 030.266424242. S+U Friedrichstraße, S Hackescher Markt. E3
The German Spy Museum Delve into the world of espionage with two floors of interactive exhibits covering some 3500 years of espionage history. Highlights include presentations on James Bond and other famous fictitious spies and a laser maze that tests your agility to break into – or out of – compromising locations. €12/8. Daily 10am-8pm. www.deutschesspionagemuseum.de. Leipziger Platz 9. S+U Potsdamer Platz E3
Stasi Museum
Art galleries Akademie der Künste Hanseatenweg The Berlin Art Academy’s long and prestigious history dates back to 1696. Today, this important exhibition space houses one of the most comprehensive interdisciplinary archives of 20thcentury art. Daily 11am–7pm. €6/4 (Free entry Tue 3–7pm). www.adk.de. Hanseatenweg 10. T: 030.200572000. S Bellevue, U Hansaplatz. C3
Berlinische Galerie
The Art Of Surveillance Whether through the video cameras at banks or algorithm-based advertising, we are always being watched and tracked. This month, Berlin's museums examine the theme of surveillance from various perspectives. The exhibition Watching You, Watching Me. A Photographic Response to Surveillance at the Museum of Photography (p. 44) explores how photography can be an instrument of surveillance, with its pros and cons. Just across the street, C/O Berlin’s exhibition (this page) Watched! Surveillance Art and Photography casts light on the complexities of modern surveillance, creatively and critically showcasing both technologies used by government agencies and those that have become embedded in the fabric of our everyday lives. Twenty artists, including Ai Wei Wei and James Briddle, examine technologies such as facial recognition, Google Street View, and digital lifelogging, pondering just how much oversight we really need.
A modern art collection of 5000+ works of German and Eastern European paintings. To 9 Oct: Christine Streuli – Works by the Fred-Theieler-Prize 2017 recipient. To 24 Apr: Cornelia Schleime – A Blink explores this year’s Hannah-Höch-Preis winner, whose dissident work in the GDR days resulted in her getting banned from East Berlin. To 24 Apr: Tatjana Doll – New World Atlas presents the HannahHöch-Förderpreis winner’s large-scale work that question phenomena in mass culture. To 21 Aug: John Bock. Bock’s work celebrates the absurdity in the world. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. €8/5 (€10/7 during exhibitions). www.berlinischegalerie.de. Alte Jakobstr. 124-128. T: 030.78902600. U Hallesches Tor. E4
C/O Berlin MUST SEE Contemporary art and photography has finally reopened in the Amerika Haus, which housed the American library during the Cold War era. To 23 Apr: WATCHED! Surveillance Art & Photography. Exploring how we navigate the contemporary surveillant society. To 23 Apr: Total Records. Vinyl & Photography. A presentation of album covers, both classic and lesser-known, that have
Mishka Henner, Nato Storage Annex, Coevorden, Drenthe, 2011, from the series Dutch Landscapes, © Mishka Henner
The GDR’s Ministry of State Security, the Stasi, has been described as one of the most repressive intelligence and secret police agencies to ever have existed. Explore the agency’s headquarters and learn about their spying techniques, inc. cameras hidden in watering cans or inside fake trees. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun noon–6pm. €5/4. www.stasimuseum.de. Ruschestr. 103. T: 030.5536854. U Magdalenenstraße. Off Map
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Haus am Waldsee
The permanent exhibit features more than 400 works, most from private collections, by the Surrealist painter, with a focus on drawing, illustration, and film. Dalí fans explore new perspectives of the artist’s life and work. Daily noon–8pm (10am–8pm in summer). €12.50. www.daliberlin.de. Leipziger Platz 7. Toll number: 0700.3254237546. U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Since 1946, this Zehlendorf villa has organized contemporary art exhibitions that cover a wide spectrum of media and styles. Each show is complemented by events – lectures, concerts, and performances – for children and adults. The multi-sensory sculpture garden is one of the city’s finest and worth a visit on its own. For an unusual yoga class, try Yoga Amidst the Art, offered Wed 9-10:30am. To 12 Feb: Julian Röder – Right and Space. A comprehensive exhibition of Röder’s oeuvre, which challenges power relations, globalization, and surveillance. Open Tue–Sun 11am–6pm. €7/5. www.hausamwaldsee.de. Argentinische Allee 30. T: 030.8018935. U Krumme Lanke. Off Map
Deutsche Bank KunstHalle
Helmut Newton Foundation
With an emphasis on paper and photography, the Deutsche Bank’s art collection is a stroll along the timeline of modern art. Every year, the bank pays tribute to young artists by organizing an international prize. To 18 Jun: Kemang Wa Lehulere: Bird Song. The Artist of the Year presents his first solo exhibition, with works centering on black South African history Daily 10am–8pm. €4/3. www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.de. Unter den Linden 13/15. T: 030.2020930. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Gemäldegalerie – Old Masters Painting Gallery MUST SEE One of the finest collections of
European art from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Lots of Dutch and Flemish painters, including Rembrandt and Vermeer, and a vast collection of Italian Renaissance art, including Botticelli, Titian, and Canaletto. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Matthäikirchplatz 50. T: 030.266424242. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Georg-Kolbe-Museum An idyllic garden houses the former studio of German Secessionist artist Georg Kolbe, who used the human body as an expression of the human spirit, challenging the role of sculpture as a representation of mythological or heroic symbolism. The museum displays a wide selection of works and hosts frequent exhibitions. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm. €5/3. www.georg-kolbe-museum.de. Sensburger Allee 25. T: 030.3042144. S Heerstraße. Off Map
Hamburger Bahnhof The permanent collection of this former railway station includes a selection of works from the Friedrich Christian Flick Collection, and the many temporary exhibitions focus on painting and sculpture from the past 50 years, as well as videos, music, and design. From 27 Apr: Raimund Kummer. Sublunar Interference. Works from various stages in the sculptor’s life, with “vision” as its theme. To 3 Sep: Adrian Piper. The Probable Trust Registry: The Rules of the Game #1-3. An intimately interactive installation of promises and principles. To 17 Sep: moving is in every direction. Environments – Installations – Narrative Spaces. A sensory learning experience of the history of installation art. To 17 Sep: Rudolf Belling. Sculptures and Architectures. Highlighting the oeuvre of the classical modernism sculptor. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm (Thu until 8pm), Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. €14/7. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Invalidenstr. 50-51. T: 030.266424242. U Naturkundemuseum, S Hauptbahnhof. D2
l museum Internatiotna exhibition permanen
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Before dying in a car accident on Sunset Boulevard in 2004, the art photographer donated all of his work to his hometown of Berlin. Best known for his nude photography of American stars, Newton now has an entire museum dedicated to his oeuvre. Tue–Sun 10am–6pm, Thu until 8pm. €10/5. www.helmutnewton.com. Jebensstr. 2. T: 030.31864856. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
Liebermann Villa on Lake Wannsee CL904 MUST SEE The former summer residence of artist Max Liebermann, co-founder and head of the German Secessionist movement. Before being dismissed and banned by the Nazis in 1933, Liebermann painted around 200 works in this villa, some of which are on display in his studio on the upper floor. €3 plus museum entry. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm (11am–5pm in winter). €7/4 (€6/4 in summer). www.liebermann-villa.de. Colomierstr. 3. T: 030.80585900. S Wannsee. Off Map
me Collectors Room
2,80€)
open daily:
Mon - Sun 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. July + August 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. (24th December closed)
Potsdamer Platz entrance: Leipziger Platz 7 Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial
Dalí – The Exhibition
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75**| Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
(**0,14€/ Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42€/ Min.) *only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until June, 30th 2017.
With over 450 exhibits from private collections this permanent exhibition provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous mastery in almost all art techniques in Berlin’s lively city centre.
www.daliberlin.de
Take a walk through
Berlin’s history
Thomas Olbricht created this space to bring together other international art collectors and to organize exhibitions, workshops, and concerts. The upper floor houses his “cabinet of curiosities.” To 2 Apr: My Abstract World. From 28 Apr: Sigmar Polke – The Editions. Highlighting 200 works from the notable contemporary photographer and painter. To 4 Jun: Picha/Images – Between Nairobi and Berlin. Tue–Sun noon–6pm. €7/4. www.me-berlin.com. Auguststr. 68. T: 030.86008510. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg The Scharf-Gerstenberg collection houses three floors of works by some of the giants of Surrealism, including Paul Klee, Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, and René Magritte. Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. €10/5. www.smb.museum. Schloßstr. 70. T: 030.266424242. U Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. A3
Commercial Galleries Galerie Kai Dikhas, opening 6 Apr: Delaine Le Bas, Damian Le Bas, Krzysztof Gil, Małgorzata Mirga-Tas, Tamara Moyzes, and others: Kali Berga. Prinzenstr. 84/2. www.kaidikhas.com; Galerie JeanMichelBerlin, opening 6 Apr: Alexander Reznichenko: Symbolism & Art Nouveau, German Dontsov: Impressionism. Kantstr. 28. www.jeanmichelberlin.de, Galerie Art Cru Berlin, opening 7 April: Anthony Stevens. Oranienburger Str. 27. www.art-cru.de; Galerie Martin Mertens, opening 15 Apr: Yuka Kashihara. Linienstr. 148. www.martinmertens.com; Galerie Tammen & Partner, opening 22 Apr: Anke Eilergerhard: Sculpture – Objects. Hedemannstr. 14. www.galerie-tammen-partner.de; Galerie Poll, opening 22 Apr: Peter Herrmann. Gipsstr. 3. www.poll-berlin.de.
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Mishka Henner, Nato Storage Annex, Coevorden, Drenthe, 2011, from the series Dutch Landscapes, © Mishka Henner
advanced photography as an art form. Daily 11am–8pm. €10/5. www.co-berlin.org Hardenbergstr. 22–24. T: 030.28444160. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
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DINING | THE GUIDE
Left: Jaja wine bar. Above, and inset, below: Cordobar. This photo: Briefmarken Weine.
Part Bar, Part Restaurant Good food and good drink have always gone hand in hand. Still, the divide between bar and restaurant has long been a pretty distinct one and, until recently, bars seldom strayed beyond standard fingerfood snacks on their menus. These days, however, bars that venture into restaurant territory are a place where innovative restaurateurs and gastronomes are pushing the boundaries, capturing a demographic of dedicated foodies as a result. Jaja wine bar (Weichselstr. 7, www. jajaberlin.com) is focused purely on one of the coolest booze trends du jour: natural wines, which are produced with zero additives to allow the complex flavors of the grapes and the terroir they grew in speak for themselves. In addition to its laudable French wine selection, this cozy establishment in the heart of Neukölln’s bar district also features a changing menu of seasonal, experimental, and above all tasty dishes. From small bites to filling mains, the chef’s creations are
representative of modern European cuisine, like octopus with cured Spanish sausage and pleasantly bitter fried radicchio leaves, or homemade ravioli filled with seasonal produce like butternut squash, kale, or wild mushrooms. Try it with a glass of unique orange wine, produced by handling white wine grapes using red-wine methods. A predecessor to one-yearold Jaja was Cordobar (Große Hamburger Str. 32, www.cordobar.net), which shines the spotlight on German and Austrian wines. Though the wine collection at this Mitte hotspot is indeed impressive, equal attention is paid to the tantalizing menu of gourmet “bites” that can be combined to make a satisfying meal. The menu changes every month to reflect the flavors and ingredients of the season, like braised sweetbreads with red cabbage in the
winter, and salmon carpaccio with peach in summer. A more traditional but equally tasty gastronomic approach is taken at Briefmarken Weine (Karl-Marx-Allee 99, www. briefmarkenweine.de). Housed in a former stamp collectors’ shop on East Berlin’s most architecturally striking boulevard, this Italian wine bar has charm to spare. Leaving the shop’s lustrous wooden cabinets and retro neon sign out front in place, the space was transformed into an inviting local wine bar, whose Italian owners highlight both the wines and food of their native country. The menu categorizes the wines by the four elements of fire, air, water, and earth, though the staff are also happy to advise. Whatever you try, it’s sure to go well with the bountiful platter of mixed antipasti or the daily pasta special.
courtesy of cordobar, briefmarken weine, and jaja wine bar
Hilda Hoy likes a glass or two with dinner. If that’s you too, check out her favorite bars that also double as dining spots.
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DINING
DINING KEY Alc (à la carte): Prices are per person for three courses (excl. drinks) €: under €15. €€: €15–€40. €€€: €40–€80. €€€€: over €80. Restaurants listed in Fine Dining have at least one Michelin star. Letter/ number codes correspond to map at back of book. Recommended by Die Goldenen Schlüssel Deutschland e.V./U.I.C.H. Les Clefs d’Or.
Fine Dining For a complete list of Berlin's Michelin-starred restaurants, visit wheretraveler.com/berlin.
5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez Catalan star chef Paco Pérez’s very first endeavor outside Spain is this Michelin-starred restaurant in Das Stue Hotel. His aim is to tickle all five senses with avant-garde taste experiences that take full advantage of the flavors and ingredients of his home country. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.5-cinco.com. Drakestr. 1. T: 030.3117220. S Tiergarten. C3
Facil Situated in a glass atrium of The Mandala Hotel and ringed by the courtyard’s trees, Facil has mastered understated elegance in both its décor and cuisine. Double-Michelin-starred chef Michael Kempf is particularly masterful with seafood when creating his fine menus. €€€€. Mon–Fri L&D. www.facil.de. Potsdamer Str. 3. T: 030.590051234. S Potsdamer Platz. D3
from local game are a highlight. €€€. Daily L&D, closed Sun. www.paulysaal.com. Auguststr. 11–13. T: 030.33006070. S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Reinstoff Chef Daniel Achilles didn’t earn two Michelin stars by playing it safe. The two nightly dinner menus at Reinstoff – one focused on regional tastes, the other incorporating influences from farther afield – are successful experiments in exciting, avantgarde cuisine. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.reinstoff.eu. Schlegelstr. 26c. T: 030.30881214. U Naturkundemuseum, S Nordbahnhof. E2
Rutz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant in one, Rutz offers perfectly paired meals by Chef Marco Müller, whose six-, eight-, and 10-course “Inspiration Menus” combine simple yet diverse ingredients into creative taste sensations. €€€€. Tue–Sun D. www.rutz-weinbar.de. Chausseestr. 8. T: 030.24628760. U Oranienburger Tor. E4
Charlottenburg– Wilmersdorf Café Wintergarten im Literaturhaus German/Austrian. Classic elegance permeates the high-ceilinged rooms of this café, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century literary salons. Snag a table
in the greenhouse-like vestibule, or settle down by one of the grand windows to enjoy breakfast, bistro-style meals, or a glass of wine. €. Daily B, L, D. www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 23. T: 030.8825414. U Uhlandstraße. C4
Duke Restaurant French. The Ellington Hotel’s signature restaurant is
all about French haute cuisine with modern, creative twists. Both the à la carte options and the menu of monthly specials illustrate the restaurant’s dedication to top-quality best meat, seafood, and regional produce. €€€. Mon–Sat L&D. www.duke-restaurant. com. Nürnberger Str. 50-55. T: 030.683154000. U Augsburger Straße. C4
Lamazère Brasserie French. Proof that fine dining needn’t break the bank is Lamazère Brasserie, a much-lauded dining spot that earned “Bib Gourmand” status in the revered Michelin Guide, a category commending great food at good value. The three-course dinner menu for €35 will allow you to sample various French food musts, like oeufs cocotte baked eggs, charcuterie platters, duck confit, beef tartare, and tarte tatin for dessert. Whatever the kitchen has cooking that night, every delicacy has that je ne sas quoi that has made French cuisine so famous. €€€. Tue-Sun D. www.lamazere.de. Stuttgarter Platz 18. T: 030.31800712. S Charlottenburg. B4
Fischers Fritz Pure, straightforward luxury is the formula at this restaurant in the Regent Berlin Hotel. One of just a handful of Berlin restaurants to earn two Michelin stars, Fischers Fritz will not fail to impress with its elevated cuisine and finely honed service. €€€€. Daily B, humuD. www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Charlottenstr. 49. T: 030.20336363. U Französische Straße. E3
Horváth Austria-born chef Sebastian Frank built a reputation – and earned a Michelin star – with his highly creative, oftentimes minimalist use of seasonal ingredients, from sunchokes to candied parsley root to spruce needles. Wooden interior and lovely outdoor patio. €€€. Wed–Sun D. www.restaurant-horvath.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a. T: 030.61289992. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Hugos
Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer The Hotel Adlon restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and a well-earned spot in the upper echelon of Berlin’s finest restaurants. No detail is spared in the creation of an unforgettable dining experience, presided over by chef Hendrik Otto. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.lorenzadlon-esszimmer.de. Unter den Linden 77. T: 030.2661196. S+U Brandenburger Tor. E3
Pauly Saal The chic, hip décor is matched by a menu of equally creative German cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Meat dishes made
An Intergalactic Culinary Adventure Berlin’s love affair with Asian fusion cuisine continues unabated, and Mitte’s Roy & Pris is one of the latest additions to this culinary scene. Just a stone’s throw from busy Rosenthaler Platz lies this sleek, chic, ultra-futuristic-looking eatery – named after characters from dystopian sci-fi film Blade Runner – with a menu as colorful in flavors and ingredients as the pink-hued lights on the walls and rainbow lasers on the ceiling. The menu takes inspiration from co-owner Guanfeng Guan’s native China and ties in a wide variety of modern culinary influences, resulting in flavor-filled dishes like octopus salad with tangy rhubarb, finger-licking-good sticky veal ribs, crispy five-spiced quail nuggets, and fresh scallops steamed with Guangzhou-style seasonings. It’s a successful formula Berlin foodies know well from Guan’s other gastronomic ventures, including Kreuzberg’s Long March Canteen and Yumcha Heroes, next-door-neighbor to Roy & Pris and purveyor of trendy dim-sum-style dumplings. Weinbergsweg 8a. T: 017622018245. www.royandpris.de
Courtesy of roy and pris
On the 14th floor of the InterContinental Hotel, Hugos offers panoramic views of the city along with Michelin-starred French-German cuisine, with a well-earned reputation as one of Berlin's go-to gourmet destinations. €€€€. Tue–Sat D. www.hugos-restaurant.de. Budapesterstr. 2. T: 030.26021263. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
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COURTESY OF ROY AND PRIS
Paris Bar
RESTAURANT | BAR | CLUB | EVENTS
French. Many celebrities – including
Madonna, Sophia Loren, and Robert De Niro – have patronized this West Berlin institution over the years. The bistro-style menu includes French classics like oysters and steak-frites, though the legend alone is enough to draw guests. €€€. Daily L&D. www.parisbar.net. Kantstr. 152. T: 030.3138052. S Savignyplatz. C4
Restaurant Le Faubourg Mediterranean. This classy restaurant features modern art and a crisp, stylish interior alongside its menu of both classic and updated French cuisine. Housed in the Hotel Sofitel Kurfürstendamm, this is the perfect spot for either a posh business lunch or a romantic dinner. A sizable selection of starters, designed for sharing, tempts as much as do the sumptuous main dishes and desserts. €€. Daily L&D. www.sofitel.com. Augsburger Str. 41. T: 030.8009990. U Kurfürstendamm. C4
Wilson's – The Prime Rib Restaurant American. Juicy, high-quality meats cooked the American way and served with salads, potatoes and extravagant desserts. €€€. www.restaurant-wilsons. de. Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre. Nürnberger Str. 65. T: 030.21007000. U Augsburger Straße. C4
Zwölf Apostel Italian. The interior of this Charlottenburg
restaurant is frescoed like a Renaissance church, and the famed pizzas are named after each of Jesus’s twelve apostles. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas are sinfully delicious, as are the other Italian menu items. Second location: Georgenstr. 2, Mitte. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.12-apostel.de. Bleibtreustr. 49. T: 030.31 21433. S Savignyplatz. B4
Open daily: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 23.00 CET Saturday and Sunday: 18.00 - 23.00 CET Make your Reservation: Tel. 030 / 278 909 95 55 www.the-grand-berlin.com
FRIEDRICHSHAIN Matreshka Russian. Simple, homey Russian fare. Borscht, meatstuffed pelmeni dumplings and their vegetarian equivalent, vareniky, a selection of Georgian wines, and, of course, plenty of vodka. €. Daily L&D. Boxhagener Str. 60. T: 0163.9870767. S Ostkreuz. H3
Transit Asian Fusion. The long menu of tapas-style Thai and Indonesian dishes, each just a few euros, allows diners to cobble together a meal encompassing a wide range of tastes and ingredients. Second location in Mitte at Rosenthaler Str. 68. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.transit-restaurants.com. Sonntagstr. 28. T: 030.26948415. S Ostkreuz. Off Map
KREUZBERG Jolesch Austrian. The dining room is elegant yet understated and this Austrian restaurant divides its menu into two sections: “modern” and “classic.” The former means creations like smoked veal tartare with elderflower; the latter refined renditions of home-style dishes like Tafelspitz beef or schnitzel. €€. Daily L&D. www.jolesch.de. Muskauer Str. 1. T: 030.6123581. U Görlitzer Bahnhof. G4
Sale e Tabacchi Italian. A stone’s throw from Checkpoint
Charlie, an area that’s something of a culinary wasteland, lies this elegant Italian restaurant known for attracting celebrities. Try the ricotta-and mint-stuffed zucchini blossoms, a popular starter. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.sale-e-tabacchi.de. www.wheretraveler.com 51
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DINING Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23. T: 030.2521155. U Kochstraße. E4
Spindler & Klatt Asian-European fusion. Restaurant, lounge, and club in one, Spindler & Klatt makes full use of its prime river location. In the summer, the waterside terrace is a memorable spot to enjoy the menu of Pan-Asian dishes, from fine sushi to sizzling tuna steaks and dry-aged Irish steaks hot off the grill. Even in colder months, the chic, post-industrial interior – built in the 1800s as an army bakery – is unforgettable too. On Fridays and Saturdays, the spot transforms into a club from 23pm. €€€. Daily D. www.spindlerklatt.com. Köpenicker Str. 16–17. T: 030 319881860. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
Volt German. The name of this restaurant and the edgy, post-industrial interior remind diners that the space was once an electricity station. Chef Matthias Gleiss has edge, too – he was named Newcomer of the Year in 2011 by a jury of top Berlin chefs. Refined yet exciting German food is his calling card. €€€. Mon– Sat D. www.restaurant-volt.de. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21. T: 030.61074033. U Kottbusser Tor. G4
like Brandenburg roast duck. €€€. Daily L&D. www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Französischestr. 25 T: 030.203751850. U Französische Straße. E3
Tue–Sat D. www.cookiescream.com. Behrenstr. 55. T: 030.27492940. U Französische Straße. E3
Barist
Crackers
Italian. Healthful, filling breakfasts, quick business
German. Heinz “Cookie” Gindullis' latest entry into the hybrid club/restaurant space features an innovative bar that serves experimental drinks and a rotating roster of international and local DJs four nights a week from 9pm until late. www.crackersberlin.com. Friedrichstr. 158. T: 030.680730488. U Französische Straße. E3
lunches, happy-hour cocktails, and dinner with friends in the red-bricked arches under the trains at S Hackescher Markt station. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.barist.de. Am Zwirngraben 13. T: 030.24722613. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3
Borchardt German/French. A favorite hobnobbing spot
of the rich and famous, Borchardt is popular for both its food (especially the schnitzel) as well as the opportunity to see and be seen. €€. Daily L&D. www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Französische Str. 47. T: 030.81886262. U Französische Straße. E3
Beef Bull Club Steaks. Juicy, delicious steaks and high-quality meats on the bustling, lively Platz at Hackescher Markt. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.beefbullclub.de. Neue Promenade 7. T: 030.27582849. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3
Mitte
Cookies Cream
AIGNER am Gendarmenmarkt
dining. First, there’s getting there, which feels more like going to an underground club than a restaurant. Then there’s the food, vegetarian eating gone haute cuisine, thanks to celebrity chef Stephan Hentschel. €€–€€€.
Austrian/German. The Mitte restaurant boasts
an elegant interior and a view on stately Gendarmenmarkt. Styled after Vienna's famed coffeehouses, AIGNER adds a local touch with dishes
Vegetarian. A whole new kind of vegetarian
Grand Rocka International. Inside, the restaurant takes over the historic arched space under S Hackescher Markt station, featuring a grand old wooden bar that lives up to the restaurant’s name, and out front, the terrace spills out across the busy Platz. The large international menu ranges from steaks to pizzas to burgers. €€. Daily B, L, D. www.grandrocka.de. Am Zwirngraben 6–7. T: 030.24638606. F2
The Grand German. The sophisticated supper club, with origins reaching back to 1842, boasts an American grill that makes its international array of steaks among the best in town. The upstairs lounge (and, in particular, its cocktails) attracts a decadent late-night scene. €€€. Mon–Fri L, Daily D. www.the-grand-berlin. com. Hirtenstraße 4. T: 030.278909555. U RosaLuxemburg-Platz. F2
Grill Royal German/French. A beloved destination of
Mitte’s well-dressed creative scenesters. There’s more to the menu than just grilled meat, though the steaks are indeed excellent. Lobster cocktail, ceviche, and oysters are just a few other additions to the fine menu. €€€. Daily D. www.grillroyal.com. Friedrichstr. 105b. T: 030.28879288. S Friedrichstraße. E3
Hummus & Friends Israeli. Creamy, rich, and fluffy hummus with warm pita bread might just be Israel’s national dish, and with the opening of Hummus & Friends, it’s easy to get in the German capital too. Also on the menu are fresh, colorful salads and side dishes like roasted whole cauliflower with tahini sauce. The bar even serves kosher Israeli wine. €. Daily L&D. www.hummus-and-friends.com. Oranienburger Str. 27. T: 030.55471454. S Oranienburger Straße. F2
Jolly
Since opening in 2010, The Barn has established itself as one of the city’s favorite destinations for good coffee. Still, there were big shoes to fill with their latest venture: taking over the location of the former Café Kranzler, one of Berlin’s most famous cafés of all time. Before being demolished by WWII bombs, the corner Kaffeehaus right on the bustling Kurfürstendamm shopping boulevard was the place to see and be seen. After reconstruction in the 1950s, Café Kranzler returned to its former glory to become one of West Berlin’s hotspots, but closed in 2000. Last December, however, the Kranzler Eck, as the building is called, was revived once again when The Barn opened its third location in the spacious upstairs rotunda. The café’s premium brews are a welcome addition to a neighborhood that was once something of a coffee desert, and the views from the panoramic terrace with its distinctive red-and-white-striped awning can revive even the weariest of shoppers. Kurfürstendamm 18. www.thebarn.de
Käfer Dachgarten-Restaurant of the German Bundestag German. The Reichstag is for more than sightseeing. Thanks to the culinary team behind Käfer, it’s also a fine dining destination. On the roof of the famed landmark, Käfer boasts splendid views and refined, modern German cuisine. Advance reservations required. Due to security precautions, each guest must provide official photo I.D. upon entry. €€€. Daily B, L, D. www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Platz der Republik 1. T: 030 2262990. U Bundestag, S Brandenburger Tor. D3/E3.
© ISTOCK
Revival Of A Classic
Chinese. Just across the water from Museum Island, Jolly’s location couldn’t be better for a tasty Chinese meal in between sightseeing stops. Bring an appetite to try as many of the steamed dim sum dumplings as possible before moving on to the menu’s extensive variety of Sichuan-style and Cantonese dishes. Traditional Peking duck is the house specialty. €€. Daily L and D. www.restaurant-jolly.de. Am Kupfergraben 4/4A. T: 030.20059500. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
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DINING Katz Orange
Restauration 1840
German/European. Housed in a former brewery, the
German. An elegant, old-timey restaurant
warm, stylish interior decoration of this restaurant is met with a menu of top-quality, updated comfort foods. The kitchen’s pride and joy is the “Slow Food” section of the menu, starring 12-hour, sous vide roasted pork neck, ribs, or lamb shoulder. €€. Daily D, closed Sun. www.katzorange.com. Bergstr. 22. T: 030.983208430. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
decorated in the style of Berlin’s Golden 1920s. Think curved brick ceilings and lots of warm wood everywhere, plus an outdoor terrace. The menu: classic German meets modern European.€€. Daily B, L, D. www.berlin-1840.de.de. Am Zwirngraben 10. T: 030.24727401. S Hackescher Markt. F2/F3
Maximilians German. Maximilians recreates the feel of a cozy Bavarian beer hall with hearty food and plentiful beer to match. Meaty specialties include pork knuckle served with dumplings and sauerkraut, freshly baked pretzels, and the tempting “Munich sausage parade.” From the four kinds of Paulaner beer on tap to the warm hospitality, Maximilians goes to great lengths to transport a piece of Bavaria to the heart of Mitte. €–€€. Daily L&D. www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Friedrichstr. 185–190. T: 030.20450559. U Stadtmitte. E3
Nante Eck German. With delightful dishes from Berlin’s
traditional cuisine and a menu that changes every month, the Nante Eck restaurant offers a refined cuisine made with fresh local ingredients. Specialties include extra-big currywurst with potato and cucumber salad and Flammkuchen pies. Very long beer menu. €. Daily L&D in summer. www.nante-eck.de. Unter den Linden 35. T: 030.22487257. U Französische Straße. F2
Prenzlauer Berg I Due Forni Italian. The atmosphere in this pizza hall is raucous and the service notoriously surly, but that doesn’t keep the pizza-loving crowds at bay. The generously sized and traditional-style thin-crust concoctions are famed around the city. €. Daily L&D. Schönhauser Allee 12. T: 030.44017333. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Lucky Leek Vegetarian. It’s not luck that makes Lucky Leek
so good, but rather a dedication to creating topnotch gourmet cuisine that is also 100-percent vegan and incorporates international tastes. The small but comprehensive menu changes regularly. €€. Wed–Sun D. www.lucky-leek.de. U Senefelderplatz. F2
Schöneberg Café Aroma Italian. A long-standing neighborhood favorite, this Italian restaurant believes in pairing high-
quality food with a relaxed, homey atmosphere. The Sunday brunch buffet is a generous mix of irresistible cold and warm Italian dishes. €€. Mon– Fri D, Sat L&D, Sun B, L, D. www.cafe-aroma.de. Hochkirchstr. 8. T: 030.7825821. S+U Yorckstraße. D5
Renger-Patzsch German. All dark wood and white tablecloths, the look at Renger-Patzsch is as simple and elegant as is its menu of refined German-Austrian cuisine. Meat dishes are a specialty, as are the Alsatian Flammkuchen, bases of thin dough baked with topping combos like apple and blood sausage. €€. Daily D. www.renger-patzsch.com. Wartburgstr. 54. T: 030.7842059. U Eisenacher Straße. D5
Tiergarten Café am Neuen See and Biergarten German/European. A waterside location in the middle of the Tiergarten park makes this a lovely spot come warm weather or chilly. Besides satisfying meals, visitors can enjoy a seat in the beer garden or a row on the lake in summer or glowing fireplaces and games of Eisstockschiessen – a Bavarian ice game similar to curling – in the winter. €. Daily B, L, D. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE
Broadway On Unter den Linden Solveig Steinhardt just can't get enough of German operetta. Of the three opera houses in Berlin, the Komische Oper is undoubtedly the most eccentric one: Sets made entirely of cartoon animation, polyglot productions, and casts mixing opera singers and cabaret stars give classic pieces a whole new twist. It all started in 2012, when Australian art director Barrie Kosky landed at the Komische Oper with a bag filled with new experimental concepts. Since then, the once all-German opera house has become more international and technological, with electronic screens displaying surtitles in four languages at every seat, a brand-new program exploring broad horizons of music, and a side schedule filled with quirky activities, including makeup workshops on how to create a bald head, or the yearly sale of original stage costumes, an event that keeps Berliners in line for hours. But fresh and fun ideas aren't the only thing Barrie Kosky brought to Berlin; by rediscovering long-lost music scores from
Berlin's pre-WWII era, he also revived an entire musical genre, the German operetta. Banned by the Nazis for being decadent, foreign, and "too Jewish," the Berlin operetta combined cabaret, jazz, and musical, and could be seen as a predecessor of the Broadway show. One great example of this is Paul Abraham's Ball at the Savoy, performed for the last time in 1932 before Hitler's ban. This captivating musical blend of klezmer, gypsy music, and jazz tells the story of a newly married high-society couple who struggles to remain faithful amid promiscuous dances, farce-like plots involving Turkish diplomats and servants, and fast-moving scenes, eventually ending
with the triumph of love when the two get back together and forgive each other's sentimental weaknesses. Catch it on 8, 16, and 30 April. For more Weimar-era flavor, the show Heute Nacht oder nie, scheduled for 6 and 27 April, presents a collection of the best satirical cabaret songs by Russian Jewish composer Mischa Spolianski, whose erotic and daring shows perfectly embodied the Berlin of the 1920s. Although his name never achieved the fame of some of his contemporaries, such as the cabaret composer Friedrich Hollaender, Spolianski's operettas enjoyed great success in Berlin, sometimes even starring Marlene Dietrich herself.
ball at the savoy, photo by iko freese, drama.berlin.de; heute nacht oder nie, photo by robert recker, robert-recker.de, courtesy of komische oper berlin.
A scene from Ball at The Savoy. Inset, below: Heute Neacht oder nie.
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com
Ballet & Opera Deutsche Oper A 1960s décor-free box of acoustic magic. Director and conductor Donald Runnicles puts together rich programs with lots of Verdi, Rossini, and Mozart. 1, 2, 5, 9, 14, 15, 17 Apr: Der Ring des Nibelungen (Wagner). 21, 30 Apr: La Traviata (Verdi). 22 Apr: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 23, 28 Apr: Death in Venice (Britten). www.deutscheoperberlin.de. T: 030.34384343. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Komische Oper
Staatsoper im Schiller Theater While its home on Unter den Linden gets revamped, the Staatsoper has temporarily moved all performances to the Schiller Theater. Daniel Barenboim’s perfect productions range from Baroque operas to contemporary premieres. 7 Apr: The Wiener Philharmoniker (cond. Daniel Barenboim). 8, 14 Apr: Parsifal (Wagner). 9, 13, 16 Apr: Die Frau ohne Schatten (Strauss). 17, 21, 23 Apr: Die Zauberflöte (Mozart). 22, 25, 28, 30 Apr: Le Nozze di Figaro (Mozart). 27, 29 Apr: La Traviata (Verdi).www.staatsoper-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Young and daring opera productions won this theater the title of Opera House of the Year 2013. Australian intendant Barrie Kosky is also the artistic director of some of the performances, with Berliner Dom mesmerizing results. 1 Apr: My Berlin’s main cathedral presents a Fair Lady (Loewe). 2, 9, 14, 22 plethora of sacred music concerts The Komische Oper brings Apr: The Fairground Scene, from year round. www.berlinerdom.de. back forgotten cabaret pieces Sorochintsky Fair (Mussorgsky), Am Lustgarten. T: 030.20269136. and German operettas in Russian. 5 Apr: Don Giovanni S Hackescher Markt. E3/F3 that were banned by (Mozart). 8, 16, 30 Apr: Ball im the Nazis. Savoy (Abraham). 13 Apr: Carmen Hochschule für Musik Hans (Bizet). 15 Apr: My Fair Lady (Loewe). 17 Eisler Apr: Les Contes d'Hoffmann (Offenbach). 29 One of Berlin’s most prestigious music Apr: The Coronation of Poppea (Monteverdi/Elena academies. Its students are members of Katz-Chernin). www.komische-oper-berlin.de. important orchestras, choirs, and bands, and Behrensstr. 55-57. T: 030.47997400. the stage presents hundreds of concerts every U Französische Straße. E3 year – many of which are free. www.hfm-berlin.de.
on this month
Classical Concerts
Staatsballett Berlin’s ballet company currently performs at various locations. 1, 2, 6 Apr: Jewels by George Balanchine at Schiller Theater. 7 Apr: Herrumbre by Nacho Duato, at Schiller Theater. 21, 23, 28 Apr: Duato/Schechter, at Komische Oper. www.staatsballett-berlin.de. T: 030.34384140. U Deutsche Oper. B3
Charlottenstr. 55. T: 030.688305700. U Stadtmitte. E3
Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie Part of the Philharmonie, this concert hall presents daily chamber-music concerts and free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays. 5 Apr: The Freiburger Barockorchetser (cond. von der Goltz) plays music by Gluck, Boccherini, and Mozart. 6 Apr: Artemis Quartet in concert. 29 Apr:
Underart at Chamäleon.
The tent-like interior of the Tempodrom.
THEATER, MUSICALS & DANCE BLUE MAN GROUP Bluemax Theater, all month
THE ONE: GRAND SHOW Friedrichstadt-Palast, all month
cape town opera chorus, photo by lucienne van der mijle; tempodrom: courtesy of tempodrom.
robert-recker.de, courtesy of komische oper berlin.
SCOTCH AND SODA Chamäleon Theater, all month
LIKE BERLIN Wintergarten Berlin, all month
SHARON BRAUNER & BAND Tipi am Kanzleramt, 29 & 30 Apr
ROCK, JAZZ, POP THE AUSTRALIAN PINK FLOYD SHOW Tempodrom, 11 Apr
DAVID GARRETT Mercedes-Benz Arena, 28 Apr
BALLET & CLASSICAL MARTHA ARGERICH & DANIEL BARENBOIM Philharmonie, 11 Apr
African Angels Fly Back to Berlin Whether opera, chorus, or folk music, the Cape Town Opera Chorus sings straight from the soul, tapping into their motto that “when I sing, I celebrate.” On 19 April, the powerful performance group is coming to the Berlin Philharmonie for African Angels, a multifaceted concert that includes percussion, piano, and of course vocal renditions in German, Italian, English, and the languages of South Africa. The audience is bound to recognize some classic songs, and also be surprised by rich renditions of traditional African melodies. www.ctoafricanangels.com
THE CORONATION OF POPPEA Komische Oper, 29 Apr
ARTEMIS QUARTET Chamber Music Hall of the Philharmonie, 6 Apr
MAURIZIO POLLINI Philharmonie, 3 Apr
BALL IM SAVOY Komische Oper, 8, 16, 30 Apr
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ENTERTAINMENT Iskandar Widjaja and the Berliner Camerata play Bach. 15 Apr: The European Vivaldi Players (cond. Bevier) in concert. 16 Apr: The Berliner Camerata (cond. Manassi) performs Beethoven, Smetana, Mozart. 21 Apr: Pianist Kateryna Titova plays Beethoven, Mendelssohn, Scriabin. 26 Apr: The Kammerakademie Potsdam (cond. Manacorda) performs Mozart. 29 Apr: Alice Sara Ott (piano) plays Grieg and Liszt. www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de. Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Konzerthaus
Beethoven. 3 Apr: Maurizio Pollini in concert. 8 Apr: The Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchetser Berlin (cond. Roth, piano Juan Perianes) perform Ravel, Stravisky, de Falla. 11 Apr: The Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. Barenboim, violin Anne-Sophie Mutter) play Beethoven, Debussy, Berg. 15 Apr: The Staatskapelle Berlin (cond. Barenboim, piano Martha Argerich) plays Brahms, Schönberg, Liszt. 19 Apr: Cape Town Opera Chorus' African Angels. 27–29 Apr: The Berliner Philharmoniker (cond. Jansons) perform SIbelius, von Weber, Bartòk. www.berliner-philharmoniker.de. Herbert-vonKarajan-Str. 1. T: 030.254880. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
This charismatic 1821 concert hall is the base theater of the Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Konzerthausorchester, but other Berlin orchestras and soloists grace its Injecting new expression into 19thstage regularly. In its ‘36 Hours’ travel and 20th-century classical works 1 Apr: The Konzerthausorchester feature, the New York Times under the lead of Marek Janowski, (cond. Saraste) performs lists the Friedrichstadt-Palast the oldest German radio orchestra Shostakovich and Lindberg. as one of the top 10 with its 103 members has won a 3 Apr: Andreas Gabalier in must-see places in place in the top tier of European concert. 6 Apr: musica reanimata, Berlin. concert orchestras. www.rsb-online. illegal music from 1944 Poland. 7 de. Tickets: 030.20298715. Apr: The Armida Quartett performs Haydn, Beethoven, Shostakovich. 12 Apr: The Karl-Forster Chor performs Brahms' Ein Deutsches Requiem. 15 Apr: Easter concert with the Berliner Virtuosen-Ensemble. 21–23 Apr: Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. de Vriend) Dock 11 Studios & Eden perform Schubert and Beethoven. 27–29 Apr: Avant-garde dance shows and contemporary Konzerthausorchester Berlin (cond. Kitajenko) performances inside an old factory. Two locations, perform Shostakovich and Prokofiev. www. one in Prenzlauer Berg, one in Pankow. www. konzerthaus.de. Gendarmenmarkt. dock11-berlin.de. Dock 11 Studios: Kastanienallee T: 030.203092101. U Hausvogteiplatz. E3 79. T: 030.4481222. U Eberswalder Straße, Philharmonie Rosenthaler Platz. F2; Eden Studios: Breite Str. 43 The iconic concert venue is home to the acclaimed (Pankow). T: 030.35120312. Berliner Philharmoniker, currently led by Sir S+U Pankow. Off Map Simon Rattle, but also hosts other ensembles and soloists. Free lunchtime concerts Tuesdays 1pm. HAU (Hebbel am Ufer) Cutting-edge shows and hip performances at this 1 Apr: The Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin (cond. Kent Nagano) plays Schubert, Strauss, off-theater and cultural point. www.hebbel-am-
DANCE AND EXPERIMENTAL SPACES
Triple Englishness
Enjoy Berlin’s widest range of undubbed English versions all-day at CineStar Original and see undubbed versions of documentaries and blockbusters at IMAX as well – on Berlin’s largest screen! Our tip: Every first Tuesday of the month Sneak-previews in original version with german subtitles at KulturBrauerei. More info and tickets at cinestar.de
Continuing The Chain Captivating audiences since the 1980s, the Scottish indie rock band The Jesus and Mary Chain is slated to perform at Berlin’s Huxley’s Neue Welt on Monday, 24 April. Their Damage and Joy tour features melodic songs from the group’s first new album in 18 years, as well as classics such as Psychocandy and Darklands. The group split up at the end of the '90s after a fight between its founders and brothers and, since reuniting in 2007, has been playing sold out shows. Hasenheide 107. www.huxleysneuewelt.com
the jesus and mary chain: photo by steve gullick.
at CineStar Original, IMAX, and KulturBrauerei!
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Radialsystem V Once a turn-of-the-century pumping station for the Berlin Water Services, this creative space is now a cultural center and idea factory that hosts performances of all kinds, from classical concerts to jazz jam sessions to contemporary dance. www.radialsystem.de. Holzmarktstr. 33. T: 030.288788588. S+U Jannowitzbrücke. G3
Sophiensaele Choreographer Sasha Waltz’s center for avantgarde dance, contemporary theater (mainly in German), music, and experimental performance artists. www.sophiensaele.com. Sophienstr. 18. T: 030.2835266. U Weinmeisterstraße, S Hackescher Markt, S Oranienburger Straße. E2
Movie Theaters
Phil Nichol
CinemaxX Potsdamer Platz Multiplex cinema. Most of the movies are screened in their original language, with or without subtitles. www.cinemaxx.de. Potsdamer Str. 5. T: 040.80806969. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Sol Bernstein
Cinestar Sony Center The latest Hollywood blockbusters, in English, every day. www.cinestar.de. Potsdamer Str. 4. T: 030.26066400. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Chris Davis Allyson June Smith
Odeon This old-school single-screen cinema was Berlin’s first English-language theater and still screens both cult movies and new releases. Hauptstr. 116. T: 030.78704019. U Rathaus Schöneberg, S Schöneberg. C5
Rock, Pop, Jazz
The best events in town
A-Trane Since 1992, this intimately sized but important venue (it was named Best German Jazzclub in 2011) has welcomed both emerging and A-list talent, including Wynton Marsalis, Herbie Hancock, and Diana Krall. Daily from 8pm, free entry Sunday after 10:30pm. www.a-trane.de. Pestalozzistr. 105. T: 030.3132550. S Savignyplatz. B3/B4
Arena A very large music hall that used to be a bus depot. www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstr. 4. T: 030.5332030. S Treptower Park, Schlesisches Tor. G4
B Flat Jazz Club Small jazz bands play almost every night at this bar. Free jam sessions every Wednesday. www.b-flatberlin.de. Dircksenstr. 40. T: 030.2833123. S+U Alexanderplatz. F2
Café Bilderbuch Frequent jazz concerts and readings at this Schöneberg café. Second Wednesday of the month: Michael Gechter’s Vocaljazz Trio. www.cafe-bilderbuch.de. Akazienstr. 28. T: 030.78706057. U Eisenacherstraße. D5
Columbiahalle/C-Halle The multi-function event space hosts some of today’s most popular pop and rock acts. www.columbia-theater.de. Columbiadamm 13-21. T: 030.69812814. U Platz der Luftbrücke. E5
Estrel Festival Center Berlin Enjoy an evening with the world’s top look-andsound-alike artists and taste a three-course dinner
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the jesus and mary chain: photo by steve gullick.
ufer.de. Stresemannstr. 29; Tempelhofer Ufer 10; Hallesches Ufer 32. T: 030.2590040. U Hallesches Tor. E4
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ENTERTAINMENT
Graced By The Guitar, In Four Styles JETZT IM WINTERGARTEN www.wintergarten-berlin.de Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin
The guitar is an incredibly versatile instrument, as skillfully showcased by four acclaimed acoustic guitar players from the German group Four Styles. The masters of their craft will spend the evening of 21 April playing classical, jazz, fingerstyle, and flamenco melodies inside one of Berlin’s oldest and most ornate evangelical churches, the Passionskirche in Kreuzberg. Guests will be delighted by melodies from catchy Latin American rumbas to the sly Pink Panther theme song. Marheinekepl. 1. www.akanthus.de. during Stars In Concert, a live performance of legends like Elvis, Abba, Johnny Cash, Buddy Holly, and more. www.stars-in-concert.de. Wed– Sat 8:30pm, Sun 7pm. Sonnenallee 225. €20, from €60 with dinner. Off Map
Havanna
SPOTLIGHTS
The place to go for salsa, merengue, bachata, R&B, and Reggaeton. Check website for program. www. havanna-berlin.de. Hauptstr. 30. T: 030.7848565. S Julius-Leber-Brücke, U Eisenacher Straße. D5
SO36 The heart of Kreuzberg’s radical scene. The Dead Kennedys and Die Toten Hosen played here a few times, while today’s program ranges from punk and hard rock concerts to flea markets and tea afternoons. www.so36.de. Oranienstr. 190. T: 030.61401306. U Kottbusser Tor. F4
Tempodrom
Lido
This large concert building resembling a circus tent – and situated on the former grounds of the now-gone Anhalter Bahnhof – hosts an array of events, from classical concerts and pop-rock productions to mixed martial arts and dance. 2 Apr: Loreena McKennitt. 8 Apr: Rock Meets Classic. 11 Apr: The Australian Pink Floyd Show. 18 Apr: Monster High Live. 28–29 Apr: Red Bull Flying Illusion. www.tempodrom.de. Möckernstr. 10. Toll number: 0186.554111. S Anhalter Bahnhof. E4
CRISTINA AUS AMSTERDAM LIVE
A former cinema turned club and concert venue for rock-indie lovers. Check website for program. www.lido-berlin.de. Cuvrystr. 7. T: 030.69566840. U Schlesisches Tor. G4
THEATER, CABARET & MUSICALS
Singt Lieder von Zarah Leander und Anderen. Am Flügel begleitet von Michael Ashton.
Mercedes-Benz Arena Berlin
Admiralspalast
20:00 Uhr, Konzert, Tickets ab 34,90 €*
HOMMAGE AN ELLA FITZGERALD Mit Uschi Brüning, Della Miles, Queen Yahna und Bettina Labeau sowie Andrej Hermlin & his Swing Dance Orchestra
09.05.2017 20:00 Uhr, Liederabend, Tickets ab 15,00 €*
15.05.2017 20:00 Uhr, Konzert, Tickets ab 33,00 €*
LINDA HESSE + BAND LINDA HESSE GEHT MIT IHREM TOP 15-ALBUM AUF AKUSTIK-TOUR
www.wintergarten-berlin.de *Preise zzgl. 10% Vorverkaufs-/Abendkassen-Gebühr und 2,00 € Systemgebühr/Ticket
KulturBrauerei The early-1900s brewery complex now houses various restaurants and art spaces, with a rich combination of programs, as well as a very popular street-food market most Sundays. www.kulturbrauerei.de. Schönhauser Allee 36. T: 030.44352614. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
A massive arena for world-touring pop concerts and sports events, including those of Berlin’s professional ice hockey team, the Eisbären. 28 Apr: David Garrett. www.mercedes-benz-arenaberlin.de. Mühlenstr. 12–30. T: 030.2060708899. U Warschauer Straße. G4
One of Berlin’s few preserved pre-WWII variety venues offers an international, high-caliber program of musicals, cabaret, and concerts in an elegant hall from the 1920s. www.admiralspalast. de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.47997499. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Quasimodo
Bar Jeder Vernunft
One of Berlin’s historic music cafés. Diversified program with many musical styles, from jazz to blues, R&B to soul. www.quasimodo.de. Kantstr. 12a. T: 030.31804560. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C4
A 1912 tent housing song-and-dance shows, comedy, and cabaret. Many shows in German only. www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de. Schaperstr. 24. T: 030.8831582. U Spichernstraße. C4
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Blue Man Group The unmistakable Blue Man Group has its own permanent theater, the Bluemax Theater, where the blue-domed performers present an energetic combination of music, art, pantomime, and comedy. The few spoken words are in English. Shows take place almost every night. Check website for info. www.stage-entertainment.de. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4. Toll number: 01805.4444. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
Bimah, the Jewish Theater Most shows are in German, but there are frequent Yiddish song performances. Check website for info. www.juedischestheaterberlin.de. Friedrichstr. 101. T: 030.2511096. S+U Friedrichstrasse. E3
Chamäleon Variete An old ballroom where it is not unusual to see trapeze artists, jugglers, tap dancers, and cabaret singers. All month: Scotch and Soda – Circus. Jazz. Served Straight Up! www.chamaeleonberlin.de. Rosenthaler Str. 40/41. T: 030.4000590. S Hackescher Markt. E2
Friedrichstadt-Palast Special effects, glitzy Vegas-style live show productions at this modern theater. All month: The One, Grand Show, a dreamlike journey through time in search of the person we love. www.palast.berlin Friedrichstr. 107. T: 030.23262326. U Friedrichstraße. E3
Kookaburra Tuesday is English Comedy Night at this popular comedy club, and there’s also an English intermezzo late on Saturday nights. www.comedyclub.de. Schönhauser Allee 184. T: 030.48623186. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
Quatsch Comedy Club
Discover Europe’s capital of nightlife
This popular club hosts frequent stand-up comedy shows and a regular English-language night. www. quatschcomedyclub.de. Friedrichstr. 107. Toll number: 01806.999000969. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Schaubühne A popular West Berlin theater in the 1960 and 1970s, this Ku’damm performance venue still hosts some interesting productions. Check website for program. www.schaubuehne.de. Kurfürstendamm 153. U Adenauerplatz. C4
Tipi am Kanzleramt The big tent in the Tiergarten has a vast program of musicals, magic, cabaret, dance, and theater. Many shows are in German. 10–11 Apr: The Real Group, three decades of vocal music. 22 Apr: Sven Ratzke & Band, Starman. 18–26 Apr: The 12 Tenors. 29–30 Apr: Sharon Brauner & Band. www.tipi-amkanzleramt.de. Große Querallee. T: 030.39066550. U Bundestag. D3 An experimental multimedia theater and cultural center where you can see plays, readings, lectures, concerts, and more. Check website for program. www.volksbuehne-berlin.de. Linienstr. 227. T: 030.24065777. U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. F2
Wintergarten Varieté This sumptuous variety theater that has earned a reputation for its revitalized Vaudeville-inspired productions, as well as world-famous acts. All month: LIKE BERLIN. www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Potsdamer Str. 96. T: 030.588433. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4
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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
The beer variety at BRLO. Inset, below: Vagabund Brauerei.
Beer Makes Everything Better There is no doubt that Germany is known worldwide for its beers. Yet only over the past few years have a handful of artisan crafters been hitting the established scene, bringing inspiration from around the globe. Read on for some of our favorites. Named after the old Slavic origin of the word “Berlin”, BRLO (Schöneberger Str. 16, brlo.de) is one of the newest additions to Berlin’s craft beer scene. Situated in a metallic and sprawling two-story space next to Park am Gleisdreieck, the brewery not only offers a creative selection of craft beers, but also delicately layered food platters which appear to be abstract works of art. Wash down the beet and ricotta cheese appetizer with some of their beer tasters, including the slightly bitter German IPA and fruity pale ale. Migrate to Neukölln’s neighborhood newbie Berliner Berg (Kopfstr. 59, berlinerberg.com), known for its five distinct handcrafted flavors. Try the light and fruity California Wheat, made with hops from America’s Golden State, or the
darker Irish Stout, made from Irish and German malt, lending it a rich chocolate and coffee flavor. Situated in a polished but sparsely lit space, with candles burning from empty beer bottles, the brewery boasts a distinctly hip Berlin atmosphere to match its trendsetting tastes. Head to Wedding in northern Berlin where the Two Fellas Brewery (Hochstr. 2, twofellas. beer) is hidden in the Castle Pub, known for its packed sports viewings and Monday Trivia Nights. Especially worth sampling are the Rogue Agent Pale Ale, which pairs a slight maltiness with whirlpool chinook hops, and also the unique and refreshing Blood Orange Wit, a Belgian-style witbeer paired with natural blood orange juice and coriander. Run by three Americans who brew their own beer, the nearby Vagabund Brauerei (Antwerpener Str. 3, www.vagabundbrauerei.
com) in Wedding is a cozy but perpetually packed nano brewery. The brews are prepared in batches to allow the distinct flavors to seep in. Try the smooth and crisp Szechuan Saison, made with wild yeast and crushed coriander seeds, or the malty Social Smoker. While they don’t serve food, they allow you to bring in your own eats from outside – a notable trait in a 'hood with many good late-night döner kebab options. Also well worth the trek up north is Eschenbräu (Triftstr. 67, www.eschenbraue.de) a homey hidden gem that brews a unique assortment, such as the surprisingly tasty Rauchbier (smoked beer with a meaty flavor). If you feel like branching out from beer, the establishment also distills its own fruit schnapps and squeezes all-natural apple juice. In warmer weather, bask outside below the stars in the massive patio.
BRLO: photo by stephanie lowe. vagabund brauerei: courtesy of vagabund brauerei.
Rachel Stern took a tour of some of Berlin’s best breweries, sampling their unique and often unconventional array of flavors.
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Beer Ankerklause A canal-side tavern where drinks come with beautiful views of passing boats. Daily from 10am (Mon from 4pm). www.ankerklause.de. Kottbusser Damm 104. T: 030.6935649. U Schönleinstraße. F4
Café am Neuen See and Biergarten A pleasant lakeside beer garden inside the verdant Tiergarten park. Open daily from breakfast onwards. www.cafeamneuensee.de. Lichtensteinallee 2. T: 030.2544930. S Tiergarten. C3
Club der Visionäre This canal-side boat-shack attracts young crowds till early morning and beyond. Daily from 2pm until very late (from noon Sat & Sun). www. clubdervisionaere.com. Am Flutgraben 1. T: 030.69518942. U Schlesisches Tor, S Treptower Park. G4
Dicke Wirtin This old Berliner Kneipe restaurant is a Charlottenburg institution. Great beer and traditional German dishes. Daily from 11am. www.dicke-wirtin.de. Carmerstr. 9. T: 030.3124952. S Savignyplatz, S+U Zoologischer Garten. B4
Prater Berlin’s oldest Biergarten serves simple and homely cuisine, seasonal specialties, and lots of beer of course! Daily from 6pm (from noon Sat). www.pratergarten.de. Kastanienallee 7-9. T: 030.4485688. U Eberswalder Straße. F1
Schleusenkrug A relaxing spot for beer lovers amid the lush greenery of the Tiergarten. German specialties to go with your beer include a variety of cakes, Flammkuchen, and a few breakfast options. Daily from 11am. www.schleusenkrug.de. Müller-BreslauStr. T: 030.3139909. S+U Zoologischer Garten. C3
Casinos Spielbank Berlin A modern casino offering three floors of fun and games, including 20 tables of roulette, blackjack, and an extensive variety of poker options, as well as 350 gaming machines. Daily from 11am. www. spielbank-berlin.de. Marlene-DietrichPlatz 1. T: 030.255990. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3/D4
Wine & Cocktails Bar Tausend Celebrities mingle while watching the expert mixologists do their magic at this futuristic bar. Thu–Sat from 7:30pm. www.tausendberlin.com. Schiffbauerdamm 11. T: 030.27582070. S+U Friedrichstraße. E3
Fragrances
©istock photos.
BRLO: photo by stephanie lowe. vagabund brauerei: courtesy of vagabund brauerei.
NIGHTLIFE
The Ritz-Carlton’s bar is the world’s only to pair cocktails with perfumes. Each drink is represented by a tester bottle of the perfume it’s based on and a photo illustrating the final presentation, which ranges from playful to whimsical. www.ritzcarlton. com. Potsdamer Platz 3. T: 030.337777. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D3
The Grand A former school building has been transformed into a super-hip restaurant, bar and club all mixed into one. Enjoy top cocktails and a selection of cigars on the green leather couches in the 1920s-inspired bar, then dance the night away in the chic, intimate club. www.the-grand-berlin.com. Hirtenstr. 4. T: 030.2789099555. S+U Alexanderplatz. B4
Green Door Cocktail Bar One of Berlin’s most relaxing cocktail bars, with a retro style and lots of kitsch décor. The cocktail list is long and the barman famous. Daily 6pm–3am (Fri–Sat until 4am). www.greendoor.de. Winterfeldtstr. 50. T: 030.2152515. U Nollendorfplatz. D4
Harry’s New York Bar An international drink menu with 200+ different cocktails, served to a jazz soundtrack. Mon–Sat from 4pm. www.esplanade.de. Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin, Lützowufer 15. T: 030.254780. Bus M29, stop Lützowplatz. D4
LaBanca Bar The Hotel de Rome’s bar team specializes in avantgarde cocktails made with unusual ingredients such as balsamic vinegar, rose petals, or ginger beer. Live music Wed–Sat, rooftop terrace in summer. www.hotelderome.com. Behrenstr. 37. T: 030.4606090. U Französische Straße. E3
Newton Bar Cigars, champagne, whiskey, and cocktails define this bar, which is entirely dedicated to fashion photographer Helmut Newton. Daily 10am–3am (until 4am Fri–Sat). www.newton-bar.de. Charlottenstr. 57. T: 030.20295421. U Französische Straße. E3
Reingold A classic cocktail bar, 1920s style. Elegant leather sofas, sumptuous lighting, and gilded elements with a soundtrack ranging from soul and funk to R&B. Tue–Sat from 7pm. www.reingold.de. Novalisstr. 11. T: 030.28387676. U Oranienburger Tor. E2
Schwarzes Café A 24-hour combination of a bar and a café, with a good selection of beer and wine and hot meals at any time of night. Lovely garden. 24h a day except Tue from 3–10am. www.schwarzescafeberlin.de. Kantstr. 148. T: 030.3138038. U Uhlandstraße, U Savignyplatz. B4
Times Bar A fine and luxurious bar inside the Savoy Hotel, offering modern drinks and Caribbean cocktails alongside a selection of Cuban cigars. www.weinrotrestaurant.com. Fasanenstr. 9-10. T: 030.311030. S Savignyplatz. C4
Victoria Bar Top-notch cocktails and a marvelous, elegant interior with dark-wood walls, leather couches, and art aplenty. Open daily 6.30pm–3am (until 4am on Friday & Saturday). www.victoriabar. de. Potsdamer Str. 102. T: 030.25759977. S+U Potsdamer Platz. D4 Venetian wine bar Il Calice (www.enoiteca-ilcalice.de, Walter-Benjamin-Platz 4) is the place to go for Italian fine wines.
CLUB GUIDE Berghain/Panorama Bar The world's most famous techno club – and with the toughest doormen too. Fri 12am– Mon. www.berghain.de. Am Wriezener Bahnhof. G3
Kater Blau A top-notch soundsystem driving house and techno beats from the best DJs, and a carnival-like atmosphere. Fri–Sat from midnight. www.katerblau.de. Holzmarktstr. 25. G3
Tresor Housed in the safe of a department store, Tresor was the first techno club in Berlin’s post-Wall years. www.tresorberlin.com. Köpenicker Str. 70. F3
Watergate A two-story electro, house, and drum & bass temple, right on the Spree River. Tight doors. Mon, Wed–Sat from midnight. www.water-gate.de. Falckensteinstr. 49. G4
House of Weekend Three floors, fabulous views over the city, and the best DJs playing techno and house. Fri–Sun from 11pm. www.week-end-berlin. de. Alexanderplatz 7. F3
Clärchens Ballhaus A popular, century-old dance hall. It's salsa on Mon, tango on Tues, swing on Wed, cha cha on Thu, and live ballroom music on Fri+Sat. www.ballhaus.de. Auguststr. 24. U Rosenthaler Platz. E2
Horns & Hooves An eccentric combination of club, piano bar, cabaret, and circus. www.hornsandhooves. de. Danziger Str. 1. F1
Gretchen Funk, hip hop, drum & bass and electronica at this eclectic Kreuzberg club. Fri & Sat. www.gretchen-club.de. Obentrautstr. 19-21. E4
Felix Club A favorite among the rich and famous. Mon, Thu–Sat. www.felix-clubrestaurant.de. Behrenstr. 72. E3
Puro Sky Lounge High-heeled crowds in a sleek, luxurious setting on the roof of the Europa Center. Wed–Sat from 8pm. www.puroberlin.de. Tauentzienstr. 9-12. C4
The Pearl Luxurious club for the poshest crowds, Thu–Sat until 7am. www.thepearl-berlin.de. Fasanenstr. 81. G4
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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE Useful Information Emergency numbers Police, call 110 free from any phone. Ambulance or fire, call 112 free from any phone. Medical Services, T: 030.310031. 24h Pharmacy: Hauptbahnhof Apotheke.
T: 030.20614190. S Hauptbahnhof. Berlin Police hotline, T: 030.46644664. Emergency dental services, T: 030.89004333. Poison hotline, T: 030.19240. National emergency number for on-call medical service, T: 116117. Berlin lost and found office, T: 030.902773101.
Berlin Airports Berlin Tegel (TXL) Approx. 10 km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By bus: Buses 109 or X9 to Zoologischer Garten
run every 10 mins, taking approx. 20 mins. The TXL express bus to Alexanderplatz via Hauptbahnhof runs every 5–10 mins, taking. 25 mins. Single tickets cost €2.80 and can be bought on board. By U-Bahn: Bus 109 or X9 connects to the U-Bahn system at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz. Bus 128 links to the U-Bahn at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz and runs every 10 mins, taking approx. 25 mins. Tickets cost €2.80. By taxi: Regular cabs take 10–20 mins to city center. Approx. €20–€35. Left luggage: Service center in Terminal A (ground floor). T: 030.41012315.
Ask the Concierge
Berlin Schönefeld (SXF)
Sandra Bösemüller, Regent Berlin I take my guests to the Reichstag dome, so they can see Berlin from above, followed by the Turkish market at Maybachufer. At the end of the day, I usually take them to my local restaurant, Nobelhart & Schmutzig.
dinner at the top of the TV tower with a great view over Berlin.
Torsten Kaminski, Ritz-Carlton Berlin Apart from the classic sights in Mitte, I take them to Kreuzberg, to the Oberbaumbrücke, to Oranienstraße and the Paul-Lincke-Ufer, and then for a drive through green Berlin, visiting places such as Schlachtensee lake, Peacock Island, or Potsdam.
Swen Roessler, Grand Hyatt Berlin Definitely Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Wall, and also Museum Island, Hackescher Markt, Karl-Marx-Allee, and the Gardens of the World.
Sam Ndiaye, Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm I want to give them a glimpse of the various facets of the city. This can be achieved via the hop-on, hop-off buses and, in good weather, with a boat trip along the Spree River or a "seven-lakes cruise" on the Wannsee. Hatem Ferjani, Berlin Marriott Hotel I recommend visiting the Gardens of the World in Marzahn: It makes for a great day out for young and old. I also like taking my guests on a boat ride through the government quarter, followed by a sunset
Lutz Schneider, Westin Grand Berlin To the Reichstag, Berlin Wall Memorial, Galeries Lafayette, Scheunenviertel around Hackescher Markt, and Nikolaiviertel.
Gerhard Buskies, Hilton Berlin Brandenburg Gate and Museum Island are a must, but I also take them to explore my local district of Friedrichshain, with a pub crawl along Simon-Dach-Straße, a visit to the weekly market on Boxhagenerplatz, a walk in the trendy area of Revaler Straße, and a canoe trip around the Stralau Peninsula. Carina Gerber, Ritz-Carlton Berlin I like to take my guests on a 6am walk on Marschallbrücke bridge, to see the beautiful view of the Bundestag and the Spree River. Images: Clockwise from left: Oberbaumbrücke; fauna sightings in Berlin's green spots; Checkpoint Charlie.
Approx. 20 km (12 miles) southeast of the city center. www.berlin-airport.de. T: 030.60911150. TO AND FROM CENTRAL BERLIN By regional train: Deutsche Bahn-operated
RE7 or RB14 to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten. RE9 to Hauptbahnhof via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz. Trains take approx. 45 mins. Tickets cost €3.40. By S-Bahn: Trains S9 and S45 to Hauptbahnhof, via Ostkreuz and Südkreuz respectively, run. every 20 mins, taking approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By U-Bahn: Bus X7 and X11 to Rudow station connect with the U-Bahn system and run every 10 mins. Journey approx. 1 hr. Tickets cost €3.40. By (night) bus: Arrivals between midnight and 4am Mon–Fri can take bus N7 to central areas. By taxi: Regular cabs take approx. 30 mins to city center, costing €30–€40. Left luggage: At the multi-storey car park P4. T: 030.60911150.
Getting Around Public Transport www.bvg.de.
Fares Buy tickets from machines in the station, and be sure to validate them in the posts next to the ticket machines. Single tickets cost €2.80; or save by paying €9 for four single-trip tickets, which you can validate as you need. If traveling fewer than three train stations or six bus or tram stops, buy a short-trip ticket for €1.70. Day tickets cost €7 for unlimited travel until 3am the following day, or if you are traveling with others, a small group ticket will get up to five people unlimited travel for €19.90. For those staying longer, a pass valid for seven days may be a better value at €30.
All photos © istock.
Nobody knows the city better than your expert concierges. When we asked them what they show their visitors, here is what they recommended. www.lcdg.org
62 W H E R E B E R L I n I A P R I L 2017
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U-Bahn The underground system is extensive. Most lines run every five minutes (less frequently outside working hours), 4am–12:30am (replaced by night buses outside of these times). The entire U-Bahn and S-Bahn network runs all night on weekends.
S-Bahn The above-ground system is faster than the U-Bahn but less frequent. Trains run every 10–20 mins. Timing and ticket rules apply as above.
Public Ferries With a regular BVG ticket ,you can hop on one of the six public ferry lines. Most beautiful is the trip from Wannsee to lakeside Kladow village; ferries leave every hour and take about 20 minutes.
Rail Travel Deutsche Bahn is the railway company that manages the Regional Bahn (RB) and Regional Express (RE) trains, operating around greater Berlin and Potsdam. The Intercity (IC) and European City (EC) trains travel further afield. www.bahn.de. Toll number: 0180.6996633.
Rent A Bike Explore Berlin by bike.
Stadtmitte The name of the Stadtmitte U-Bahn station is rather fitting: It literally means “city center,” which aptly describes the location of this busy transfer station in Mitte at the junction of Friedrichstraße and Leipziger Straße. The station’s long pedestrian tunnel connecting the U6 and U2 lines was bricked up from 1961–1990, as the former belonged to West Berlin and the latter to the East.
Taxis
Tax-Free Shopping
Würfelfunk: T: 030.210101.
German law entitles all non-EU residents to a VAT tax refund. Look for stores displaying the Premier Tax Free sign and ask for a "tax-free form." When leaving the EU, goods and the completed form must be shown to a customs agent, from which a customs stamp must be obtained no more than three months after the date of purchase. Goods must be unused. Present the stamped form at the refund counter in the airport, or send it to Premier Tax Free as soon as you reach your destination. www.premiertaxfree.com.
Money Services
Deutsche Bahn Call-a-Bike service:
Banks and Foreign Exchange
www.callabike.de. Berlin and Bike: www.berlinandbike.de. T: 0163.5120124.
Exchange AG: Friedrichstr. 172. T: 030.20649296. Deutsche Bank: Kurfürstendamm 111. T: 030.8904370.
Rent a Car
American Express: T: 069.97972000 Diners Club: T: 07531.3633111 MasterCard: T: 0800.8191040 Visa: T: 0800.8118440
Avis: www.avis.com. T: 0180.6217702 (toll number) Europcar: www.europcar.com. T: 040.52018765 Hertz: www.hertz.com. T: 0180.6003690
STATIO OF N MONTTHE H
Lost Cards and Cheques
MAP LICENSE NUMBER: BVG-0050.16; UBAHN: © ISTOCK photo.
All photos © istock.
ESSENTIALS
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16/03/2017 09:45
U
WHERE NOW | ANTHEA KRESTON
ANTHEA KRESTON VIOLINIST
To the delight of Europe’s classical music fans, celebrated American violinist Anthea Kreston moved to Berlin last year to join the Artemis Quartet, an award-winning string ensemble noted especially for its renditions of Beethoven. (Hear them perform on 6 April in the Philharmonie’s Chamber Music Hall.) She also blogs weekly at www.slippedisc.com, which is one of the most-read classical music blogs in the world. www.antheakreston.com
You moved to Berlin just last year to join the Artemis Quartet. Has living here been what you expected? It has been a surprisingly easy city to get comfortable in – easier than, say, NYC. It is affordable and drivable and the public transportation is fantastic. What neighborhood do you call home? What are some things about that neighborhood that you like? We started in Kreuzberg, which was a blast because of the food options, the eateries and outdoor markets. We also loved the mix of cultures. Then we moved to Halensee to be closer to my work and to international schools for the girls. It is more calm here, and very convenient to get anywhere in the city. It also helps that we live above a gelato store. Do you think having Berlin as its base has influenced the Artemis Quartet over the years? Absolutely. I consider the Artemis to be a symbol of Berlin – the quartet of Berlin. We (they) started as a group of incredible young musicians and hit the ground running with a string of international awards. Then they became road warriors – traveling the globe at breakneck speeds, winning Echo awards for their numerous recordings – and now we are parents, teachers, and amongst the legends of
living quartets on the planet, playing around 70 concerts per year. How lucky am I? Incredibly. What other musical offerings of the city would you recommend? The Artemis Quartet has its own concert series in the Philharmonie – we play three times a year, next on 6 April. Come have a beer with us after the concert at the lovely backstage cafe. I had the opportunity to perform at Piano Salon Christophori the other week – what a great venue! They have concerts in a warehouse with dismantled piano corpses lining the walls and a hodgepodge of vintage chairs for the audience. Keep an eye out for “Cello Cinema” from the Runge/Ammon Duo. It’s the cellist of the Artemis Quartet performing famous movie music, with the movie on a big screen. Despite a busy performance schedule that has you traveling a lot, what are some favorite Berlin discoveries? My time at home is precious, and family oriented. This means biking in Tiergarten or the gardens at Schloss Charlottenberg, going to the Lego store, to Museum Island to see Nefertiti and the Gates of Ishtar, or for croissants, gelato, and hot chocolate. It also means finding
fresh foods at the many street markets or eating with friends. Thalassa in Kreuzberg (Gneisenaustr. 57) has great Greek food, and Mr. Minsch (www.mr-minsch-torten.de) and Princess Cheesecake (www.princesscheesecake.de) have incredible desserts. Imagine you have a day off to spend however you choose. What would your perfect day look like? My favorite day: wake up late, make pumpkin waffles, take the M29 bus (sitting in the front seats on top with our girls) to Loxx Miniature World (www.loxx-berlin.com), and then to Museum Island. Grab a bite close to the museum (something healthy and easy like Dean & David). Spend a couple of hours, then have a snack at the beautiful café in the Bode Museum. Come home, make a nice dinner, read Harry Potter, then bedtime for the kids! Then, have a glass of wine with my husband and curl up by the fireplace with a good book and some Beethoven. The Artemis Complete Beethoven Box Set is a favorite. Clockwise from top left: Museum Island; Anthea Kreston; ice cream ""mit Streusel," a German kids' favorite; Anthea Kreston and her children in front of the Charlottenburg palace; the bust of Nefertiti; cheesecake from Princess Cheesecake.
MUSEUM ISLAND, ICE CREAM, VIOLIN: © ISTOCK; ANTHEA KRESTON AND ANTHEA WITH KIDS IN FRONT OF SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG: COURTESY OF ANTHEA KRESTON; BÜSTE DER KÖNIGIN NOFRETETE NEUES REICH, 18. DYNASTIE, AMARNA, ÄGYPTEN, UM 1340 V. CHR. © STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN / FOTO: SANDRA STEISS; PRINCESS CHEESECAKE: COURTESY OF PRINCESS CHEESECAKE
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