Where New Orleans July 2017

JULY 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

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STAR-SPANGLED CITY Fireworks, Ice Cream, Hot Dogs and Sparkling Spritzers

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New Orleans CONTENTS

07.17

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the plan

the guide 20

9 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Anita Graveson Concierge at the Hotel Monteleone.

10 Editor's Itinerary A 90-minute exploration of Rampart Street to make the most of your time in the city.

XX 28 SHOPPING

12 Hot Dates

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus cultural keepsakes and Christmas shopping.

Tales of the Cocktail The world's premier booze fest, Big Freedia, Roger Waters and 26 other entertainment ideas to entertain.

14

GALLERIES &

36 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl. Plus a museum-quality collection.

41

ENTERTAINMENT

XX

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and music clubs. Plus fun factories and outdoor movies.

50

NAVIGATE

XX

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus a Cajun country road trip.

64 Where Inside: New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for first-timers, luxury seekers and history buffs.

ON THE COVER

fireworks display

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STAR-SPANGLED CITY Fireworks, Ice Cream, Hot Dogs and Sparkling Spritzers

BEER TOURS FISHY FUN GAME ROOMS DIVE BARS

on the Mississippi riverfront. ©SHAWN FINK

17

New Orleans

JULY 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

The Fourth of July "dueling barge"

58

where now

PLANTATION COUNTRY

XX

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus picture-perfect plantation weddings.

14 Tour the Town E~NO-WM-170700_01_Cover.indd 1

6/6/17 11:34 AM

Ale, yeah: Get on the beer bus.

16 Out + About

Bull runs, dive bars and swing dancing.

CONNECT WITH US

17 On the Go

Dip into the Aububon Aquarium.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

Refreshed sodas and spritzers, hot restaurant dish and Instagram-worthy ice cream.

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 61-63

(LEFT) ©JENNIFER MITCHELL PHOTOGRAPHY/TALES OF THE COCKTAIL; (CENTER, TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©JEFF STROUT/AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus haute dogs and cool beans.

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Anita Graveson

Concierge at the Hotel Monteleone

Q: Where would you suggest catching the Independence Day fireworks?

A: If you can get to it, Artillery Park next to Café Du Monde (p. 23). If not, at the intersection of Bienville and Decatur, because you’re a little away from the crowds.

Q: Name three places visitors with children should seek out.

A: The Audubon Aquarium (p. 41), the Louisiana Children’s Museum (p. 46) and Mardi Gras World (p. 42).

Q: And for family friendly dining?

A: Palace Café (p. 25) and Tableau (p. 26).

The Pelican Club (p. 25) also has a good children’s menu.

Q: Tales of the Cocktail takes place at the Monteleone. Describe what that’s like.

A: It’s a whirlwind of activity. Anybody who’s interested in anything that has to do with the cocktail world comes in.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©LOUISIANA CHILDREN'S MUSEUM

Q: Any advice for first-time attendees?

A: Pace yourself with the tastings, drink lots of water and have a good time.

Q: Cocktails or beer—and where?

A: I’m a cocktail person. There are too many to name them all, but some of my favorite places are Cure (p. 46), Arnaud’s French 75 (p. 46), the Empire Bar (p. 46), Cane & Table (p. 23) and, of course, the Carousel Bar in the Montelone (p. 49). I could go on and on!

LA Children's Museum

9

EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY NEWS TO TRAVEL BY

The Essential New Orleans What’s hotter than July in New Orleans? Not much. Despite the humidity, there are still plenty of cool things to do and see this month, from brewery tours to bull runs. Even cooler are the city’s air-conditioned streetcars (all except the St. Charles line).

Grab one, chill out and see where the day takes you.

90 MINUTES ON

Rampart Street Named for the wall (or rempart) that originally bordered the French Quarter, Rampart Street runs from Esplanade Avenue through the Central Business District. South Rampart is home to the fast-expanding South Market District and the Eagle Saloon, where early jazz greats performed. North Rampart counts such landmarks as the Saenger Theatre, the circa-1872 New Orleans Athletic Club (which has its own bar, naturally), Our Lady of Guadalupe Chapel and Armstrong Park, where jazz is said to have first taken root. The new Rampart streetcar line makes navigating the busy stretch a breeze and has brought a fresh focus to the street, with the Troubadour Hotel, Homewood Suites and Effervescence among recent newcomers.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

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10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

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WHERE CALENDAR JULY

For more information: wheretraveler.com

Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com

TOP STOPS

HOT

22 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

BLUE NILE July 1: Soul Rebels Brass Band. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583

DATES

HOUSE OF BLUES July 7: Freedom: Live Tribute to George Michael & Wham!; July 22: New Orleans Beatles Festival; July 17: Delta Rae; July 25: Spose; July 28: The Alarm. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583

JULY 18-23:

Tales of the Cocktail

What do you get when you take 20,000 pounds of ice, top it with 9,258 bottles of spirits and garnish with 2,900 limes? The makings for another unforgettable Tales of the Cocktails. Now in its 15th year, the world’s premier booze fest draws bartenders, distillers and industry insiders from around the globe with five days of seminars and tastings at the Hotel Monteleone. Bars citywide host “Dynamic Duos” events throughout the week, pairing famed mixologists with local notables, while area restaurants join in July 21 with “spirited” dinners. For a full lineup, visit talesofthecocktail.com.

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

Big Freedia caption here

1 ESSENCE FESTIVAL > THROUGH JULY 2 The “party with a purpose” mounts its first ladies night July 1 with Mary J. Blige, Chaka Khan and a dozen more top female performers, before closing out with Solange, Trombone Shorty and others the following evening. Mercedes-Benz Superdome, 1500 Poydras St.; 800.745.3000

4 ROGER WATERS > JULY 8 The former Pink Floyd frontman pulls into the Smoothie King Center on his “Us + Them” tour, which culls from early works like “Dark Side of the Moon” to his new album, “Is This the Life We Really Want?” Smoothie King Center, 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

BIG FREEDIA > JULY 1 New Orleans’ “Queen Diva” of bounce joins forces with Tank and the Bangas, winners of the 2017 NPR Tiny Desk Contest, for a hard-tobeat double-header at Tipitina’s. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477

DAVID BLAINE > JULY 16 Now you see him…. Catch the boundarypushing master illusionist on his first North American tour. Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

2

Go Fourth

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

among the “Best 4th of July Events Around the Country” by Travel + Leisure. Judge for yourself at 9 pm.

5

BASTILLE DAY > JULY 14 Celebrate the city’s French connection during this annual fête at New Orleans Museum of Art. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100 6

GO FOURTH > JULY 4 The annual “dueling barge” fireworks display along the Mississippi riverfront was ranked 3

12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

HOWLIN’ WOLF July 2: Hot 8 Brass Band; July 14: New Creations Brass Band; July 29: Mia Borders. 907 S. Peters St., 504.522.9653 JOY THEATER July 28: Stand-up NOLA: An Evening of NOLA Comedy. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569 ORPHEUM THEATER July 6: “Moana” & “Planes, Trains and Automobiles”; July 27: “Alice in Wonderland” & “Singin' in the Rain.”

129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870 SAENGER THEATRE July 25: Idina Menzel; July 28: Sabrina Carpenter. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000; TIPITINA’S July 7, 14, 21 & 28: Free Fridays Concert Series.

501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477

(TOP) ©JENNIFER MITCHELL PHOTOGRAPHY/TALES OF THE COCKTAIL; (CENTER) ©FUSE NETWORK/THE LIPPIN GROUP; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK

CIVIC THEATER July 12: “Welcome to Night Vale.” 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865

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where now New Orleans

The city’s top entertainment, events, dining and more

As the local brewery landscape grows, crafty companies are cashing in on the Crescent City craft beer movement.

14 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

TOUR THE TOWN

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

Tapped In

STOUT FARE

How best to navigate New Orleans’ burgeoning beer scene?

Let someone else do the driving. BY NORA MCGUNNIGLE

N

ew Orleans has a lot more breweries now than it did a year ago. To help visitors (and locals) get to several safely at one time, three beer-focused bus tours have popped up in recent months. They’re all high quality and priced about the same, but each company has its own specialty. Check their websites and reviews to find the best fit for you.

ALL IMAGES ©SHAWN FINK

Urban South Brewery

BEST TOUR FOR NEWLY WEDS OR BEER NERDS WHO LIKE SHINY EQUIPMENT When Urban South Brewery opened in March 2016, Premium Tours and Transportation (premiumtoursandtransportation.com) founders Patrick Healy and Peter Van Dusen decided the time was right for a proper brewery bus tour in the Uptown area.

Their New Orleans Brewery Tour takes place every day at 4 pm, and always hits Courtyard Brewing, Urban South and NOLA Brewing.

The tour includes two beers at each stop and an up-close look at the breweries’ inner workings—the only one of the three companies to do so.

Healy says friendships are often facilitated between tour attendees. “We once had two recently married couples on the tour,” he recalls. “They loved craft beer, were staying at the same hotel, got married on the same day and didn’t

know each other until they got on the bus. Three hours later they had dinner plans together for the next two nights.”

BEST TOUR FOR BACHELOR PARTIES OR ANY KIND OF PARTY Matt Marsiglia’s NOLA Brew Bus (nolabrewbus.com) is a customized party mobile, on which he and business partner Jesse Barry conduct three weekly brewery tours.

On Friday afternoons they cross Lake Pontchartrain to tour the Abita Brewing Company; on Saturdays and Sundays, the Brew Bus hits three of the eight in-town breweries, switching routes every month. Participants get a tour at one of the three stops, two beers at each and some history about the city and its rich brewing background in between.

NOLA Brew Bus also offers a Saturday afternoon “To-Go Cup” walking beer tour, which focuses on one of the city’s newest breweries—Brieux Carré, just off of Frenchmen Street in the Marigny neighborhood—along with a couple of French Quarter bars where guests can sample local brews. Private tours are also available for groups and parties.

“We promote not just craft beer in New Orleans, but our city in general,” Marsiglia

NOLA Brew Bus

NOLA Brewing

says. “As a licensed tour guide company in the Big Easy, we really pride ourselves on being the liaison between tourists, breweries, new locals finding their groove and small businesses.”

BEST TOUR FOR THE SOMEWHAT SERIOUS BEER EXPLORER New Orleans Brews Cruise (brewscruise.com) is Amber and Brad Gunn’s tribute to Louisiana beer and the people who love it. New Orleans tours are offered three times a week—Fridays and Saturdays at 6 pm and Sundays at 2 pm—and include a rotating three out of 10 local breweries with samples at each stop and a tour of one.

The Brews Cruise also makes monthly brewery tours to the Northshore (to visit Abita, Old Rail and either Covington or Chafunkta), Baton Rouge (with stops at Gnarly Barley, Southern Craft and Tin Roof) and Lafayette (home base for Bayou Teche, Cajun Brewing and Parish Brewing Co.).

“The majority of our customers seem to be craft beer fans who are interested in learning more about what New Orleans has to offer,” says Amber. “They are also looking for someone who is knowledgeable and can bring them to places the locals would go to.”

Have a bite with your beer.

It’s important to eat while drinking, so the fun can carry on all day. Many local breweries have a rotating slate of food trucks that set up shop on different days of the week, but there are a few where you can count on a permanent chef and menu.

Brewpubs are by definition restaurants that also make and serve their own beer. Crescent City Brewhouse (p. 23) in the French Quarter offers a variety of New Orleans and Louisiana cuisine to pair with founder/brewer Wolfram Koehler’s German-style beers.

The local outpost of the nationwide Gordon Biersch (p. 21) chain serves a wide array of food that complements in-house brewer Nick Anzalone’s experimental beers (such as New England IPAs and barrel-aged stouts), along with the classic German styles the brewery is known for.

Neil McClure, pit master of McClure’s BBQ, moved his operation from a stand-alone restaurant to NOLA Brewing’s tap room (p. 46).

Beer and barbecue lovers can get his smoked meats, lauded burgers and creative sides every day from 11 am to 11 pm.

The recent opening of Port Orleans Brewing (4124 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.266.2332) brought The Stokehold, a new restaurant partnership between three local chefs who plan to create specific dishes that pair with each beer on tap.

McClure’s BBQ

15

WHERE NOW New

Orleans

Dive On In

OUT+ABOUT

Forget glitz and polish. Some of New Orleans’ best-loved bars are downright dives.

AUNT TIKI’S Don’t let the name fool you; there are no umbrella drinks here. And don’t even think about ordering one; the bartender might toss you out. What you will find is a worn sofa, well-stocked jukebox and extra-strong cocktails at rockbottom prices. Who needs Mai Tais? 1207 Decatur St., 504.680.8454

MS. MAE’S Another Magazine Street hole-inthe-wall hot spot. There are pool tables, air hockey, foosball and a small patio, but the real draw is the friendly patrons and crazy cheap drinks. 4336 Magazine St., 504.218.8035

SATURN BAR In recent years Bywater has become hipster central, but the cool-kid crowd has been orbiting around the Saturn Bar for more than four decades and still lands there today. 3067 St. Claude Ave., 504.949.7532 SNAKE & JAKE’S A NOLA dive-hunter rite of passage; even Anthony Bourdain has boozed it up in this tumbledown shack. Gritty, grungy and lit mostly

by Christmas lights, this legendary land of the lost is eternally cool and quintessentially New Orleans.

7612 Oak St., 504.861.2802

RED, WHITE AND SWING Independence Day may culminate with fireworks over the river, but the patriotic party continues throughout the month Running of the Bulls

Bull Maneuvers

New Orleans takes a page from Pamplona with the 11th annual Running of the Bulls July 7-9. Unlike Spain’s encierro, however, the bulls here are hornwearing members of the Big Easy Rollergirls and other flat-track derby leagues. Swinging plastic bats, the roller-skating “bulls” chase thousands of participants decked in red and white attire as they run, weave and squeal through the streets of the city.

The ridiculously fun run kicks off July 8 at 8 am from the Sugar Mill (1021 Convention Center Blvd.), and is followed by a sangria-saturated post-party. For more information, visit nolabulls.com.

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

at the National WWII Museum (p. 46). In addition to its new “Arsenal of Democracy” exhibit, PT-305 boat rides and “Behind the Lines” tours, the museum offers a number of fun events at its Stage Door Canteen. On Saturdays, beginning July 8, the Victory Swing Orchestra gets visitors in the mood with its big band beat, while swing is the thing on Sundays, starting July 9. Instructors offer dance lessons before you hit the floor to the accompaniment of local swing bands. Lindy Hop lover? Sign up for “Dancing With the Stars & Stripes,” the museum’s debut swing-dance competition, which gets going July 11. Andrews Sisters fans will want to catch the Victory Belles trio performing wartime classics July 15.

(TOP LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (TOP RIGHT) ©CHERYL GERBER; (BOTTOM) ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©DIGITAL ROUX/AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE

BROTHERS THREE Despite its sunny yellow exterior, inside this low-key lounge it’s dark, dank and divey 24/7. There’s country on the jukebox, a rotating cast of colorful characters at the bar … and the drink prices are almost as low as the ceilings. 4520 Magazine St., 504.897.9912

Snake & Jake’s

ON THE GO

Underwater World Step into the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas (p. 41) and leave summer’s swelter behind. Sharks and sea turtles cavort in the 400,000-gallon Gulf of Mexico exhibit, while lion fish and moray eels keep watch over the Great Maya Reef. Scene-stealing sea otters make a big splash, as do penguin feedings and stingray touch tanks, where small fries have big hands-on fun. Big kids are catered to July 13 with a “Summer of Sustainability” dinner. Highlighting the importance of the local seafood industry, the multicourse meal, which takes place in front of the Gulf of Mexico habitat, spotlights a number of the city’s top culinary talents. For tickets and details, visit audubonnatureinstitute.org/audubon-gulf-seafood-dinner-series.

17

Orleans

FOOD+DRINK

Puttin’ On the Spritz

New Orleans is a fun place to eat and drink. In early May, James Beard Awards (culinary Oscars) were given to stellar chefs Rebecca Wilcomb (Herbsaint) and Zachary Engel (Shaya), and there was a long overdue nod to the city’s cocktail culture with a win for Arnaud’s French 75. Raise a toast to star barman Chris Hannah; the summer sipping scene is full of fizzy options, with or without booze.

On the soda side there’s Big Easy Bucha, a local business that bottles fermented tea in various flavors. You’ll find it tucked into drink cases at Poke Loa (p. 26) and St. Roch Market (p. 26). From the Vietnamese drinks canon comes Soda Chanh, a sparkly limeade; try one at Nine Roses Café (p. 25).

Restaurants are keen on creating their own sodas, which can be “corrected” with spirits. Kebab (p. 26) has a sweet-tart beet-citrus soda to drink plain over ice or with a shot of vodka or gin. At Shaya (p. 27) there are seasonal sodas to drink as is, or order the “Birth of Athena,” which combines a fizzy blend of sloe gin, cider beer and rose.

Spritzers are back in a big way, with bars/restaurants taking effervescent drinks to the next level using locally distilled spirits, house-made shrubs, syrups and sodas. At Lula Restaurant Distillery (p. 26) they use their own vodka. Try the “Basil Smash” (lemon, basil, cane sugar and bubbles).

At Arnaud’s French 75 (p. 46), order the “Candelabra” (Singani 63, Sancerre, pomegranate syrup, lime and club soda); or go with a “Roffignac” (cognac, homemade raspberry shrub and soda) at Bakery Bar (p. 20).

Cocktail goddess Laura Bellucci’s “Iridescent Gods” at SoBou (p. 26) is a smokyfruity composition that gets a smidge of heat from ginger and fizz from elderflower kombucha. At Café Henri (p.

26) it’s all about the tart and intriguing “Venetian Spritz,” made with Cappelletti Aperitivo, soda, Champagne, olive, black pepper and lemon.

—Lorin Gaudin

Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed.

DTB “Coastal Cajun” is the concept here.

There’s a cool surf-and-turf starter of crisp oysters and slow-cooked brisket perched atop sturdy bread garnished with Gruyere and horseradish aioli. Check out the “Cornmeal Gnocchi and Shrimp Rice Bowl,” and do not miss the cocktails by famed bartender Lu Brow. DTB also has a great brunch that includes “Crawfish Pie Benedict.” Get it. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889 BRATZ Y’ALL A bit of Bavaria on the bayou. This Bywater bistro/bakery/biergarten offers a German menu of bratwurst, sandwiches, schnitzels and platters to wash down with draft beer. The chewy soft pretzels are

made for dragging through mustard or dips; the “NOLA Schnitzel” combines breaded, fried pork loin with crawfish-remoulade slaw on a muffuletta bun; and the wursts are some of the city’s best. Hit the apple strudel for dessert. 617-B Piety St., 504.301.3222 CELLAR DOOR Chef Tommy Finch, a Commander’s Palace vet, helms the kitchen at this historic “sporting house” turned restaurant and bar.

At lunch, chicken-and-andouille gumbo with fried rice and hardcooked egg is a nice precursor to the pork and pickled veg “Gris Gris Po Boy.” For dinner, it’s a tough call between the “Coconut Lime Mussels and Frites” and the “Crispy Duck Confit Tacos.” Just be sure to save space for this dessert: Oreo beignets with a brandy milk punch shake. 916 Lafayette St., 504.265.8392 —LG

DTB

LAST BITE At its root, ice cream is a simple delight. That simplicity, coupled with the food world’s quest for innovative eats, makes ice cream often tapped for clever twists and tweaks. On Fridays and weekends, Dat Ice Roll sets up a chilled flat-top table outside of Dat Dog on Magazine Street (p. 26), and serves up ice cream a la minute with a show. A silky liquid milk base is spread over the frozen tabletop surface, worked with a spatula, then scraped into delicate rolls and served standing upright in a cup. Grab a spoon and dig in, but not before nabbing that

Café Henri

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

Instagram pic, of course. Feed the need … and feed the feed. —LG

(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (TOP RIGHT) ©MAX CUSIMANO; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK

WHERE NOW New

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494 artandeyesnola.com

BACKWARD..... OR FORWARD in time?

INDY EYEWEAR LIKE NO WHERE ELSE.

the guide Dining July

A Frank Discussion

Truck Stop

The dog days of summer beg for a great hot dog. You’ll find a variety around town, each with its own NOLA flavor and flare. At Dat Dog (p. 26, shown) traditional German beef and pork sausages are on the menu, along with brats and Polish kielbasa. For a local twist, try the duck, alligator and crawfish versions. Vegan, kosher and halal dogs are the order at Dreamy Weenies (p. 24), where house-made buns are topped with everything from curry sauce to grits. Diva Dawg, in the Roux Carré food court (p. 21), crowns its red bean chili dogs with fried chicken, while Café Adelaide (p. 20) kicks up its signature shrimp-andtasso “corndogs” with pepper jelly and Crystal hot sauce butter.

When Geoffrey Meeker began roasting beans in his laundry room in 2012, little did he know how popular French Truck Coffee (p. 26) would become. Now found in restaurants citywide, New Orleans’ first micro-roaster recently opened its third “third wave” coffee shop at 221 Chartres Street. Stop in and see what’s brewing.

Central Business/ Warehouse District

CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BAKERY BAR Eclectic. This sweet spot is both a bar

and a restaurant, but mostly a bar. There are crafty cocktails, a smallish brunch menu (served until 3 pm) and a case of beautiful cakes. Open until midnight. $ Brunch (Tu-Su). www.bakery.bar. 1179 Annunciation St., 504.265.8884. Map 3, A7 CAFÉ ADELAIDE Louisiana. Chef Meg Bickford

helms the kitchen at this bistro spinoff of Commander’s Palace in the Loews Hotel. Bickford serves up playful takes on modern Creole cuisine.

Try the oyster and pork belly po’ boy. B (daily), L (MF), D (M-Su). www.cafeadelaide.com. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6

20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot is counted among celebrated local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-of-thenorm antipasta (octopus carpaccio), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www. domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6

(LEFT) ©DAT DOG; (RIGHT) ©FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

DINING

GORDON BIERSCH Brewhouse. This national chain

of brewpubs features a glassed-in working brewery and a full menu: garlic fries, hearty entrées, woodfired pizzas and some seriously good stir-fry dishes.

Sports fans will appreciate the plasma TVs in the bar. L, D (daily). www.gordonbiersch.com. 200 Poydras St., 504.552.2739. Map 3, D6 HERBSAINT French. James Beard Award-winning

chef Donald Link’s entrées range from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com.

701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5

MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 NEW ORLEANS SOCIAL HOUSE Contemporary.

Noshing on sharable small plates—lobster tacos, bison sliders, salmon tartines—while sipping on craft cocktails and fine wine, is the idea here. Live music nightly. $$ D (nightly). www. noshneworleans.com. 752 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.7101. Map 3, C6

PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap, live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT AUGUST French. In New Orleans,

chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a vision. The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s award-winning Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a wide wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and lamb pot pie. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue

and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L, D (W-Su). www.centralcitybbq.com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 ROUX CARRÉ Eclectic. A food port for emerging

businesses representing New Orleans’ diverse culinary culture. Vendors include Diva Dawg, Estralita’s Express, Johnny’s Jamaican Grill, Black Swan Food Experience and the Pupusa Lady. $ L (daily), D (FSa). www.rouxcarre.com. 2000 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.309.2073. Map 1, D3 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 21

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................20

Central City..................................................................................................21 French Quarter........................................................................................22 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 26 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................26 Mid-City..........................................................................................................27 Uptown..........................................................................................................27

goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup or crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree. $$$ D (W-Su); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola.com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Bayona continues its reign

as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

DINING

D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established

in 1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots. Chef Neal Swindler serves up modern Creole cuisine (Caribbean fish with smoked black bean sauce), along with Old World classics. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks,

and delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant

provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as deepfried ribs with papaya chutney. $$ L (F), D (nightly); brunch, Sa-Su. www.caneandtablenola.com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard 510 Toulouse St. | 504.524.9632 | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The

French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the baby back ribs, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and fresh grilled w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

redfish with soft-shell crab. Live jazz nightly (no cover). $$ L, D (daily). www.crescentcitybrewhouse. com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue rib eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DREAMY WEENIES American. Kosher, vegan, halal;

curry sauce, pico de gallo, tzaziki. This isn’t your average hot dog vendor...and its all the better for it.

Cash only. $ L, D (daily). www.dreamyweenies.com.

740 N. Rampart St., 504.872.0158. Map 3, G3 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled din24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Live Jazz • Real Food • Serious Beer 527 Decatur St. • 504.522.0571 www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com

Live Jazz Nightly (no cover)

DINING

ing experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro is a perennial hot spot. The menu is filled with Emeril creations such as Louisiana crab cakes with Creole tartar sauce, pork cheek boudin balls with tomato-bacon jam and a grilled double-cut pork chop with pecan-glazed sweet potatoes. $$ L (Th-M), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 PELICAN CLUB Louisiana. Chef-owner Richard

Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The seared tuna with Gulf shrimp is excellent, as are the roasted baby lamb rack, filet of tenderloin with wild mushroom sauce. $$ D (daily). www.pelicanclub.com. 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4

Visit us at Crazy Lobster Destin. Located in the Village of Baytowne Wharf

REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com.

309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.revolutionnola.com.

777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south

of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B, L, D (daily). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE Coffee. Named for the

vintage Citroën vehicles it uses for deliveries to local restaurants and grocers, French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. $ Open daily. www. frenchtruckcoffee.com. 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, A7; 504.298.1115. Map 1, D4 LULA RESTAURANT DISTILLERY Louisiana. The

menu here pairs with the vodka, rum and gin made on site. Think boudin eggrolls with fig-molasses sauce, rum-lacquered shrimp and braised rabbit with white beans. Ask for a tour of the distillery. $$ 26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.lulanola.com. 1532 St. Charles Ave., 504.267.7624. Map1, D3 POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-

you-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes (edamame, fish roe, etc.). $ L, D (daily) www.eatpokeloa.com. 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and hot mustard, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L, D (W-Su). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/

bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 CAFÉ HENRI Mediterranean. The menu at this

casual corner café is smartly small and neat. Start with the boquerones toast, then slip into risotto with beets and hazelnuts or a seafood stew loaded with Gulf fish, shrimp and clams. A frozen Negroni?

Yes, please. $$ D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). henri. cafe. 800 Louisa St., no phone. Map 1, E3

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual dining. Dive into big-flavored small NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1 plates (crawfish beignets, bone marrow tartine), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Sa-Su (brunch). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 DAT DOG American. Here, the ho-hum hot dog

stand gets glammed up with imported wieners and sausages tucked into sweet sourdough rolls.

Toppings range from standard to sublime (crawfish etouffée), and sodas are made in-house. $ (L, D) daily. www.datdognola.com. 601 Frenchmen St., 504.309.3362. Map 3, J5; 3336 Magazine St., 504.868.4391. Map 1, D4; 5030 Freret St., 504.899.6883. Map 1, D3 KEBAB Mediterranean. At this creative eatery/pin-

ball parlor, spit-turned meats or crisp-fried falafel are piled on fresh-baked, herb-topped bread, loaded with fresh vegetables and lashed with your choice of sauces. $ L, D (W-M). www.kebabnola. com. 2315 St. Claude Ave., 504.383.4328. Map 3, K4 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran

restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown APOLLINE Louisiana. In this renovated shotgun

house, chef Matt Farmer makes diners feel right at home with his contemporary twists on French/ Creole cuisine. Char-broiled oysters with bacon marmalade, cold-smoked pork chops, seared scallops with maque choux and pork plank; at brunch try the confit duck with potato hash, duck cracklin and Hollandaise. $$$ Brunch, D (Tu-Su). www.apollinerestaurant.com. 4729 Magazine St., 504.894.8881. Map 1, D4

Where do you want to go?

Find the best of the city

CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s casual coastal cuisine, such as Old Bay-seasoned fries and catfish Hoppin’ John. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays

homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine.

Think oyster toast, alligator chorizo-stuffed squash blossoms and gumbo with crab fat rice. Killer cocktail program. $$ D (M-Sa); brunch (F-M). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE American. A New Orleans

landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa).

1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

Israel at this modern Mediterranean eatery from chef Alon Shaya of restaurant Domenica fame.

Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant. com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

Shopping

Stuck on NOLA

Christmas In July

Fans of Crescent City culture get their fill with a visit to Dirty Coast (p. 28), which celebrates local customs with everything from T-shirts (“Be a New Orleanian Wherever You Are”) and notecards (“Let’s do lunch and talk about dinner”) to water-meter mouse pads and “Smells Like Home” candles. “Everything we do, everything we make is a proclamation of our love for New Orleans,” reads the company’s mission statement. Show your own love—wherever you are—by wearing one of its enamel-and-gold plate pins depicting local icons. Hurricane cocktails, shotgun houses, snoballs, po’ boys, gumbo, oysters, shrimp boots; more than 20 are offered.

Take a break from the heat by ducking into Santa’s Quarters (p. 31), a year-round winter wonderland. The air conditioning will pull you in, but it’s the cool holiday collectibles that will make you linger. Themed trees are decked with all manner of ornaments, including New Orleans-centric items like alligator reindeer and crab-shell St. Nicks.

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, along with a large selection of New Orleans-related books. www.gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 KITCHEN WITCH New, used and vintage

cookbooks are on the menu at this charming shop geared to foodies. Special emphasis is placed on hard-to-find Southern titles and rare volumes devoted to Creole and Cajun cuisine. www.kwcookbooks.com. 1452 Broad St., 504.528.8382. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5

SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music

shop is big on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. wheretraveler.com www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 BUFFALO EXCHANGE Unhappy with the clothes

you packed? Trade ’em for a whole new look. The ever-changing inventory at this resale shop keeps the fashions fresh and affordable. Used clothing may be exchanged for any item in the store. www.buffaloexchange.com. 4119 Magazine St., 504.891.7443. Map 1, D4 DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part

boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5 DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New

Orleans couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to

FLEURTY GIRL Lauren Haydel has become a

mini mogul, thanks largely to her popular line of women’s T-shirts, which debuted in 2009. Today her designs celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3 H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hardto-resist prices. www.hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HATTIE SPARKSThis sleek boutique’s well-curated

stock features everything from select women’s wear and hip home accents to cool cards and outof-the-norm gift items. www.hattiesparks.com. 939 Girod St., 504.510.5060. Map 3, B4 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.269.4005. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and acces-

MORE THAN 10 MILLION tourists visited the city during 2016, according to an annual study by the University of New Orleans, generating $7.41 billion in revenue.

28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

(LEFT) ©DIRTY COAST; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www. louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 28

Clothing........................................................................................................ 28 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 30 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 31 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 32 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 32 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 33 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 33 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 34 Shoes............................................................................................................... 35 Special Services...................................................................................... 35

sories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 KIT AND ACEThis lululemon offshoot is known for

its line of “technical cashmere” clothing. Geared to both sexes, the chic shop’s luxe street wear is both versatile and machine-washable. www.kitandace. com. 3913 Magazine St., 844.548.6223. Map 1, D4 LILI VINTAGE BOUTIQUE Retro rules at this chic

shop, where yesteryear’s castoffs are given new leases on life. The hand-selected inventory, with a focus on vintage cocktail dresses, is top-quality and constantly changing. Costume jewelry and other accessories are also featured. www.lilivintage.com. 3329 Magazine St., 504.891.9311. Map 1, D4 LOST AND FOUND What you’ll find at this fun

French Quarter shop is a constantly changing inventory of women’s clothing and accessories mixed with offbeat gift items. www.lostandfoundnola. com. 323 Chartres St., 504.595.6745. Map 3, F4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 PENELOPE Affordable luxury is the key phrase at

this sophisticated women’s boutique. Searching for edgy elegance with a European accent? You’ll find it here at hard-to-beat prices: All items are under $100. 328 Chartres St., 504.522.5893. Map 3, F4 PERLIS Mudbug season lasts year-round at Perlis,

purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. In addition, Perlis carries such specialty items as Mardi Gras-hued rugby shirts. The place for classic seersucker suits. www.perlis.com. 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661. Map 1, D4 PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child at this

upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish Eu30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

ropean shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. www.pippenlane.com. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4 RUBENSTEIN’S The Rubenstein family has been

outfitting locals since 1924. But the fashions here are anything but dated: Zegna, Canali and Paul Smith are just a sampling of the designers in stock. www.rubensteinsneworleans.com. 102 St. Charles Ave., 504.581.6666. Map 3, E4 TOTAL WOMAN This boutique offers such design-

ers as Diane von Furstenberg, Trina Turk, Vince and Shin Choi, in addition to shoes and accessories

by Tracy Reese, Robert Rodriguez and Gucci. www.totalwomanola.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.891.3964. Map 1, D4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 TUXEDOS TO GEAUXWhy rent a tux when you can

own one? This formal wear shop dresses men to the nines—complete with shirt, tie and cummerbund—for under $200. www.tuxedostogeaux.com.

3400 16th St., Metairie, 504.455.5393. Map 1, C2 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4 URBAN OUTFITTERS The local branch of this

national chain has infused the French Quarter with a big dose of youthful trendiness. Fun casual wear for both sexes is featured, along with cool accessories. www.urbanoutfitters.com. 400 N. Peters St., 504.558.9459. Map 3, F5 WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European women’s wear,

from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by such leading designers as Piazza Sempione and Stella McCartney. www.weinsteinsinc.com. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4

Gifts & Collectibles BOTTOM OF THE CUP In addition to psychic read-

ings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories. Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. www.bottomofthecup.com. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4 BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM

Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré.

www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers hand-crafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop,

you’ll find fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery—along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 622 Royal St., 504.522.0950. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4; 407 Decatur St., 504.510.4030. Map 3, F5 GEM DE FRANCE Where do French Quarter Franco-

philes go for authentic French Country table linens, shea-butter soaps and trés chic home accents? To Gem de France, naturally, where you’ll find plenty of Parisian imports to ooh-la-la over. www.gemdefrance.com. 729 Royal St., 504.571.6304. Map 3, G4 HERB IMPORT CO. This popular smoke shop

features a large selection of cigarettes and herbal smoking blends, in addition to pipes and related goods. Offbeat gift items are also offered, along with aromatherapy, vitamins and detox products. www.herbimport.com. 711 St. Peter St., 504.525.4372. Map 3, G4; 5055 Canal St., 504.488.4889. Map 3, D3; 712 Adams St., 504.861.4644. Map 1, C3 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4

SHOPPING

NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 PLUM This hip home and gift shop is devoted to

YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY

“cool stuff for stylish living,” much of which is created by local crafters. Handmade housewares, artful accents, jazzy jewelry: If it’s both fun and functional, you’ll likely find it here. www.plumneworleans.com.

1914 Magazine St., 504.897.3388. Map 1, D4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222 Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET

FREE LIFETIME ALTERATIONS • YEAR ROUND SERVICE

ROCKET FIZZ Candy connoisseurs get their fill

at this oh-so-sweet shop, packed with nostalgic sweets and novelty treats. A large selection of British and Asian imports is offered, along with hundreds of sodas in fun flavors. www.rocketfizz. com. 831 Decatur St., 504.566.7500. Map 3, H5 SANTA’S QUARTERS Need a little Christmas right

this very minute? Load up the sleigh at this holidaythemed shop—the South’s largest—selling nativity sets, specialty lights and locally crafted ornaments year-round. www.santasquartersno.com. 1027 Decatur St., 504.581.5820. Map 3, H5 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits AUNT SALLY’S PRALINE SHOP Chances are you’ll

HOME OF THE $169 TUXEDO SET! Why Rent? OWN IT!

At Tuxedos To Geaux, we don’t believe in rentals.

Why hassle with returning your tuxedo the morning after?

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(504) 455-5393 • 3400 16TH STREET, METAIRIE, LA 70002 • NEXT TO IMPASTATO’S RESTAURANT

catch the sweet scent of Aunt Sally’s clear down the block. Created from Louisiana cane sugar and pecans, pralines are made fresh daily in the store’s kitchen. The shelves are also stocked with Crescent City souvenir items. www.auntsallys.com. 810 Decatur St., 504.524.3373. Map 3, H5 BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS Crescent City

confectioner Cheryl Scripter has built a loyal following with her incredible truffle collections. Her Warehouse District location also offers fresh morning pastries, coffees and teas, along with delicious cakes, cookies, dipped fruits, toffees and handmade nonparelis. www.bittersweetconfections. com. 725 Magazine St., 504.523.2626. Map 3, C6 BLUE FROG CHOCOLATES Chocolate gets

elevated to an art form at this oh-so-sweet shop, which features delectable imported and domestic chocolates, truffles, Italian candy flowers, pralines and other New Orleans specialties. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

THE GUIDE

www.bluefrogchocolates.com. 5707 Magazine St., 504.269.5707. Map 1, D4 KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.809.1026. Map 1, D4 LAURA’S CANDIES Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 MARTIN WINE CELLAR Wine Spectator has recog-

nized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4; 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504.896.7300. Map 1, C2 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4 SIMONE’S MARKETA small, independent grocery

devoted to thoughtfully selected local and regional products. Prepared foods are also available, along with daily deli specials. www.simonesmarket.com.

8201 Oak St., 504.273.7706. Map 3, C3 SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERSYou can catch a sugar

buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). www.southerncandymakers. com. 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2 WINE INSTITUTE NEW ORLEANS In addition to

recreational wine classes, professional certification courses and private tasting sessions, this shop/ school offers fine vintages for sale, along with a tasting room featuring 120 wines for sampling. www.winoschool.com. 610 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.8000. Map 3, D6

Hats & Accessories BELLA UMBRELLA Cloudy skies? This shop helps

you keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature 32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

pagoda-style umbrella. www.bellaumbrella.com.

2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4 FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4 WEHMEIER’S This emporium stocks a wide

variety of super-premium items in exotic leathers, including alligator, ostrich and lizard belts, bags and accessories. Fine leather boots for both men and women from Lucchese, Old Gringo and Lane are featured. www.wehmeiers.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.681.2082. Map 3, E5

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 AVERY FINE PERFUMERY This artisanal fragrance

”smell gallery” is one of only 18 in the world and the Italian-based InterTrade Europe group’s sole stand-alone, stateside location. Hard-to-find niche brands such as Blood Concept and Boadicea are featured. www.averyfineperfumeries.com. 527 St. Joseph St., 504.522.7102. Map 3, B6 FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international

SHOPPING

success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 SEPHORA The local branch of the nation’s leading

cosmetics and perfume retailer offers more than 13,000 products from 200-plus brands, all of which can be tested on site. www.sephora.com. 414 N. Peters St., 504.561.9889. Map 3, F5; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.830.4567. Map 1, C2 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7; 140 Carondelet St. Map 3, D3 2048 MAGAZINE ST | 537 ROYAL ST

WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

123 Baronne St., 504.335.3190. Map 3, E3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City

branch of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments—reflexology, volcanic stone massages, seaweed wraps, expresso-mud scrubs—along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www. neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 COUTELIER Form and function combine at this Riv-

erbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks. com. 8239 Oak St., 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved ap-

plause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 LOOMED NOLA Hand-woven cotton, linen and silk

in a range of colors forms the basis of the organic Turkish textiles found here. Scarves, robes, towels and bedcovers are among the offerings. www. loomednola.com. 2727 Prytania St., Suite 13, 504.304.2047. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 THE SHOPS AT 2011 MAGAZINE This interiors

marketplace features more than 20 vendors.

Custom-made home furnishings, select antiques, art, jewelry and gift items are among the many offerings. www.theshopsat2011.com. 2011 Magazine St., 504.407.0499. Map 1, D4 SPRUCE Does your space need a spruce up? Start

by stopping in at this eco-conscious interiors studio. Funky fabrics, one-of-a-kind wallpaper and design consultation services are offered. www.sprucenola.com. 2043 Magazine St., 504.265.0946. Map 1, D4

Jewelry ADLER’S Since 1898, Adler’s has been New Or-

leans’ most respected repository for fine jewelry, watches, china and silver. www.adlersjewelry.com.

722 Canal St., 504.523.5292. Map 3, E4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.523.1952. Map 1, C2 ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich cre-

ates handmade jewelry on site at this small space in the Rink shopping center. New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, streetcars) and bits of nature (leaf and bone imprints) are featured in her designs and works by national crafters. www.adornandconquer. com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.702.8036. Map 1, D4 ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St.

Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs de lis designs are prominent. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 33

THE GUIDE

KENDRA KENDRA SCOTT SCOTT JEWELRY JEWELRYAlong Along with with its its signature signature

line line of of go-anywhere go-anywhere and and -with-anything -with-anything designs, designs, this innovative innovative jewelry jewelry shop shop lets lets you you customize customize this pieces to to your your own own taste. taste. www.kendrascott.com. www.kendrascott.com. pieces 5757 Map 1, 1, D4 D4 5757 Magazine Magazine St., St., 504.613.4227.

504.613.4227. Map

KREWE KREWE Eyewear-maker Eyewear-maker Stirling Stirling Barrett Barrett has has gargar-

nered a a national national following following with with his his locally locally designed designed nered line of of sunglasses. sunglasses. Each Each of of his his iconic iconic styles styles is is named named line for for a a New New Orleans Orleans street street and and features features handmade handmade acetate acetate frames frames with with gold gold hardware. hardware. www.krewe. www.krewe.

Map 3, 3, H4 H4 com. 809 809 Royal Royal St., St., 504.407.2945.

504.407.2945. Map com.

Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

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MARION CAGE CAGE “Jewelry “Jewelry is is a a form form of of architecture, architecture, MARION

and and the the body body is is its its landscape” landscape” is is the the mantra mantra of of Marion Marion Cage Cage McCollam, McCollam, whose whose elegant, elegant, minimalist minimalist creations reflect reflect her her industrial-design industrial-design training. training. creations Cool home home accents accents and and hardware hardware are are also also feafeaCool tured. tured. www.marioncage.com. www.marioncage.com. 3719 3719 Magazine Magazine St., St., 504.891.8848.

Map 1, 1, D4 D4 504.891.8848. Map

MIGNON FAGET FAGET Beloved Beloved local local designer designer Mignon Mignon MIGNON

Faget has has created created extraordinary extraordinary jewelry, jewelry, using using Faget semiprecious semiprecious stones stones and and precious precious metals, metals, for for more more than than four four decades. decades. New New Orleans Orleans icons icons and and images images figure prominently prominently in in her her work. work. www.mignonfaget. www.mignonfaget. figure Map 1, 1, D4 D4;; com. 3801 3801 Magazine Magazine St., St., 504.891.7545.

504.891.7545. Map com.

Lakeside Lakeside Shopping Shopping Center, Center, 3301 3301 Veterans Veterans Blvd., Map 1, 1, C2 C2;; The The Blvd., Metairie, Metairie, 504.835.2244.

504.835.2244. Map Shops at at Canal Canal Place, Place, 333 333 Canal Canal St., St., 1st 1st fl., fl., Shops Map 3, 3, E5 E5 504.524.2973.

504.524.2973. Map

Papier Plume 842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

TIFFANY TIFFANY & & CO. CO. Founded Founded in in 1837 1837 as as “a “a stationery stationery

mid-century modern modern stylishness stylishness are are Warby Warby mid-century Parker’s Parker’s trademarks. trademarks. An An in-store in-store photo photo studio studio lets lets customers customers email email images images of of their their new new glasses glasses to themselves, themselves, or or to to friends, friends, then then purchase purchase later later to online. www.warbyparker.com. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 3964 Magazine Magazine St., St., online.

504.799.2830.

Map 1, 1, D4 D4 504.799.2830. Map

WELLINGTON WELLINGTON & & COMPANY COMPANY This This shop shop is is largely largely

devoted to to antique antique and and estate estate jewelry, jewelry, with with an an devoted emphasis on on Victorian, Victorian, Edwardian Edwardian and and art art deco deco emphasis designs. designs. A A large large selection selection of of diamond diamond engageengagement ment rings rings is is also also featured, featured, along along with with new new designer lines. lines. www.wcjewelry.com. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 505 Royal Royal St., St., designer Map 3, 3, F4 F4 504.525.4855.

504.525.4855. Map

Toys • Boxes • Games •

WARBY PARKER PARKERAffordable Affordable eyewear eyewear and and WARBY

Gizmos • Gadgets • Gifts of Wood • Clocks • Puzzles • Office

and and fancy fancy goods goods emporium,” emporium,” Tiffany’s Tiffany’s has has since since become synonymous synonymous with with top-of-the-line top-of-the-line luxury luxury become jewelry, and and famed famed worldwide worldwide for for its its signature signature blue blue jewelry, boxes. boxes. www.tiffany.com. www.tiffany.com. The The Shops Shops at at Canal Canal Place, Place, 333 Map 3, 3, E5 E5 333 Canal Canal St., St., 1st 1st fl., fl., 800.843.3269.

800.843.3269. Map

Malls/Major Retailers Retailers Malls/Major

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GULFPORT GULFPORT PREMIUM PREMIUM OUTLETS OUTLETS It It may may be be an an hour’s hour’s

drive, drive, but but a a day day trip trip to to this this popular popular outlet outlet mall mall is is well worth worth the the investment investment for for bargain bargain hunters. hunters. The The well sprawling complex complex offers offers deep deep savings savings at at more more sprawling than than 70 70 leading leading retailers retailers (from (from Ann Ann Taylor Taylor and and J. J. Crew Crew to to Coach Coach and and Nike), Nike), along along with with a a food food court court to keep keep shoppers shoppers fueled fueled and and on on the the go. go. www. www. to premiumoutlets.com. 10000 10000 Factory Factory Shops Shops Blvd., Blvd., premiumoutlets.com.

Gulfport, Gulfport, Miss., Miss., 228.867.6100.

228.867.6100.

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JAX JAX BREWERY BREWERY This This 1891 1891 brewhouse brewhouse is is now now a a

riverfront marketplace marketplace with with three three levels levels of of shops shops riverfront and restaurants. restaurants. www.jacksonbrewery.com. www.jacksonbrewery.com. 600 600 and Decatur Map 3, 3, G5 G5 Decatur St., St., 504.566.7245.

504.566.7245. Map

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LAKESIDE LAKESIDE SHOPPING SHOPPING CENTER CENTER A A favorite favorite shopping shopping

stop of of New New Orleanians Orleanians for for more more than than 30 30 years, years, stop Lakeside is is conveniently conveniently located located near near the the city city Lakeside and and Louis Louis Armstrong Armstrong Airport.

Airport. The The mall mall houses houses more more than than 120 120 stores, stores, including including Apple, Apple, Coach, Coach, the the Disney Store, Store, Macy’s, Macy’s, Michael Michael Kors, Kors, Microsoft Microsoft and and Disney

34 W WH HE ER RE E N NE EW W O OR RL LE EA AN NS S II JJ U U LY LY 2017 2017 34

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SHOPPING

Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

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along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7

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books, toys, gifts & apparel

THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

131 DECATUR ST. C LAI RE E LIZA B ETHG A LLERY.C O M 131 DECATUR ST. C LAI RE E LIZA B ETHG A LLERY.C O M

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FOR INFANTS, TODDLERS AND CHILDREN

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Shoes DONALD J. PLINER This Canal Place retailer is

devoted to shoes, handbags and accessories from designer Donald J. Pliner. www.donaldjpliner.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.522.1720. Map 3, E5 FEET FIRST More than 50 lines of women’s brand-

name shoes, handbags, jewelry and accessories are offered here, along with items by local designers. www.feetfirststores.com. 526 Royal St. 504.569.0005. Map 3, G4; 4122 Magazine St., 504.899.6800. Map 1, D4 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction” of-

fers high-fashion women’s shoes without the high prices that usually accompany them. Get a step ahead with a large selection of cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In addition

to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. www. frenchquarterpostal.com. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

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with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4

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ROYAL MAIL SERVICE Can’t fit all the goodies

you bought into the overhead bin? Send them home via this postal center, which offers DHL, Federal Express and UPS pickups. 828 Royal St., 504.522.8523. Map 3, H4

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THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques The Art of the Dealer Ever wondered what a gallery owner’s personal art collection might look like?

Find out at the New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 46), where Pride of Place spotlights more than 80 works recently gifted to NOMA by Arthur Roger. Over the past four decades, Roger’s eponymous gallery (p. 36) has become synonymous with contemporary Crescent City art, giving rise to local talents like Douglas Bourgeois and Simon Gunning (shown) and introducing regional collectors to such nationally recognized artists as Deborah Kass, Catherine Opie and John Waters, all of whom are featured in the collection. The accompanying catalog includes an interview between Roger and frequent exhibitor Waters, whose film “Pink Flamingos” screens at the museum July 21, followed by “Polyester” July 28. After the exhibit, check out Roger’s Julia Street gallery.

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to

the cutting-edge creations on its walls. www.martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASS WORKS AND PRINTMAKING STUDIO

This working artists’ studio features free demonstrations by local master crafters in blown glass, printmaking and fine silver. Designs made in the studio are on display—and for sale—in the front showroom. How-to classes are also offered. www.neworleansglassworks.com. 727 Magazine St., 504.529.7277. Map 3, C6 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ pre-

eminent exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www. stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY

The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery.com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4

ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Woodrow Nash, Steve Taylor and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery. com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French

ANTIQUES ROADSHOW pulls into the New Orleans Convention Center July 22 in search of Crescent City collectibles; catch the episode on PBS in 2018.

36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

©NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

Central Business/ Warehouse District

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

ST RY VILLE

View of Basin Street (detail); ca. 1908; The Historic New Orleans Collection, gift of Alber t Louis, Lieutaud, 1957.101

MADAMS & MUSIC

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 36

An exhibition on view through December 9, 2017 THNOC’s Williams Research Center 410 Chartres Street Tuesday–Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

Admission is free.

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 36 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................40 Collectives.....................................................................................................40 Other Locations.......................................................................................40

Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4

The varied attractions of sex, music, and dance emanating from New Orleans’s former red-light district lured visitors from around the country.

Stor yville: Madams and Music traces the rise and fall of the neighborhood that helped shape the notorious reputation that adheres to New Orleans today.

BRASS MONKEY This tiny storefront offers one

of the largest selections of Limoges boxes in the Quarter, as well as antique walking sticks and other collectible curios. 407 Royal St., 504.561.0688. Map 3, F4

www.hnoc.org | (504) 523-4662 |

CALLAN FINE ART Specializing in fine European

paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery features museum-quality examples from the academic, Barbizon, impressionistic and post-impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here.

Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5

a n tiques

d e p r o v e n c e, l l c F R E N C H

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CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4

38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

FRENCH ANTIQUES • GARDEN & LIGHTING FRENCH ART • MIRRORS • OLIVE JARS NEW SOFA SHOWROOM! 623 ROYA L ST. FREN CH Q UA RT ER 50 4. 529. 4 342 A N T I Q U E S D E P R O V E N C E.C O M

#madamsandmusic

Galleries+Antiques

GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4

HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. Map 3, F4

JACK SUTTON ANTIQUES The Sutton family has

been one of Royal Street’s most prominent since 1915. This emporium is an elegantly decorated living room filled with 19th- and 20th-century decorative antiques, vintage watches, fine jewelry, dinnerware and paintings. 315 Royal St., 504.522.0555. Map 3, F4 JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation,

family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. www.cohenantiques.com. 437 Royal St., 504.524.0802. Map 3, F4 JAMIE HAYES GALLERY The colorful works of

artist and children’s book author Hayes have been said to capture “the true spirit of New Orleans,” and acquired by such famous collectors as Robin Williams, k.d. lang and Muhammad Ali. Original paintings, prints and fun gift items are featured. www.jamiehayes.com. 617 & 621 Chartres St., 504.592.4080 ; 504.596.2344. Map 3, G4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

Maturation Saturation | 60"×36"

617 B i e nv i l l e S t re e t | N ew O r l e a n s michalopoulos.com 617 B i e nv i l l e S t re e t | N ew O r l e a n s michalopoulos.com

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4

Fu l l ret ro s p e c t i ve o n v i ew n ow t h ro u g h J u ly 1 6 at t h e O g d e n M u s e u m

O

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART Maturation Saturation | 60"×36"

925 CAMP STREET NEW ORLEANS OGDENMUSEUM.ORG

Fu l l ret ro s p e c t i ve o n v i ew n ow t h ro u g h J u ly 1 6 at t h e O g d e n M u s e u m

O

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

925 CAMP STREET NEW ORLEANS OGDENMUSEUM.ORG

KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KEZIC GALLERY Diego Lukezic is triple talented.

Perhaps best known for his popular “Tango Dog” series, the local artist also creates New Orleans architectural images using the pseudonym “Martin Luke” and 4-D florals as “Kezic.” www.kezic.com.

343 Royal St., 504.298.1096. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals

in international oil paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 39

THE GUIDE

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com.

411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 PENNINGTON FINE ARTWith no formal training,

Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others at Boston’s Museum of Fine Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. www.penningtonart.com. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4 PHOTO WORKS This gallery showcases the work of

photographer Louis Sahuc, known for his dramatic shots of the city, which have been called “the quintessential images of New Orleans.” Sahuc specializes in black-and-white, but also creates vivid color prints. www.photoworksneworleans.com. 521 St. Ann St., 504.593.9090. Map 3, G5 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 TANNER GALLERIES & STUDIO Home to local

artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.”

Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 TRESOR GALLERY Offbeat illustration, macabre

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.tresorgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.309.3991. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for history and Hollywood

buffs, this hip shop is filled with signed collectibles, vintage jewelry and retro bar ware. Marilyn Monroe glamour pics, first-edition novels and assorted music memorabilia are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Du40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

rer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec. Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection, along with sculpture by Richard McDonald, Martin Eichinger and Paige Bradley. www.windsorfineart. com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 AS YOU LIKE IT SILVER SHOP This shop stocks silver

flatware in hundreds of active and inactive patterns to complete an existing set or begin a new one.

Browse among tea services, goblets and more. www.asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. 3033 Magazine St., 504.897.6915. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 FRENCHY GALLERY Art of the moment takes on

new meaning in the hands of Randy Leo Frechette, who captures moments on canvas as they unfold.

From music fests to sporting events to Carnival parades, you’ll find the real-time artist fast at work among the crowds. www.frenchylive.com. 8319 Oak St., 504.861.7595. Map 1, C3 GARDEN DISTRICT GALLERY This gallery, located

near Commander’s Palace restaurant, features rotating exhibits by local, regional and national artists. www.gardendistrictgallery.com. 1332 Washington Ave., 504.891.3032. Map 1, D4 KEVIN STONE ANTIQUES This dealer scours Euro-

pean estate sales for top-quality antiques, with an emphasis on unusual 18th- and 19th-century items from France and Italy. The inventory here runs the gamut from fine furnishings to decorative accessories. www.kevinstoneantiques.com. 3420 Magazine St., 504.891.8282. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. www.galleryosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530.

THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O This innovative de-

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of designers. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2113. Map 1, D4

WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Other Locations BARRISTER’S GALLERY A bit off the beaten

Royal Street path but well worth the sidetrack for Southern and African folk art fans. Barrister’s is packed with the odd and the interesting. www. barristersgallery.com. 2331 St. Claude Ave., 504.710.4506. Map 1, E3 DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey, Harry Shearer and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net. 3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 5 PRESS GALLERY Part of the New Orleans Center

for Creative Arts, this airy space spotlights works by professional artists with strong ties to the nationally acclaimed high school, from notable alumni to visiting artists-in-residence. www.5pressgallery.com. 5 Press St., 504.249.5624. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKETThis plein air art market

fills an alley tucked amid Frenchmen Street’s famed music halls. From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps to folk art, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares. Open Th-M, 7 pm-1 am. www.frenchmenartmarket.com. 619 Frenchmen St., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5 ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works (oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks) by dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.523.7945. Map 3, E5

THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Play Stations

Cinema Safari

Gamers, get your thumbs loosened up. Dave & Buster’s (1200 Poydras St., 504.226.3300), the Texas-based video arcade and sports bar chain, has finally landed in Louisiana, bringing with it 40,000 square feet of fun. Open until 2 am on Fridays and Saturdays, the sprawling good-times emporium features more than 165 video games (half-priced on Wednesdays), along with bowling, billiards and numerous HD TVs for sports watching. But D&B’s isn’t the only gaming game in town. Nearby Barcadia (p. 46) offers life-size Jenga, giant Connect Four boards and retro arcade games, while Fulton Alley (p. 41, shown) puts a modern-day spin on the old bowling alley.

Grab a blanket, confiscate the kids’ smartphones and head into the great outdoors for Dinner and a ZOOvie. The Audubon Zoo (p. 41) wraps its summer film series this month with screenings of “Finding Dory” July 14 and “Trolls” July 28, both at 8 pm.

Something more than popcorn? Scope out the on-site food trucks.

Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

(LEFT) ©FULTON ALLEY; (RIGHT) ©AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE

AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM Located in the circa-1860 U.S. Custom

House, this ranks as the nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month .

Visit us online:

worleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. wheretraveler.com CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 view of the city? Hop on the Elysian Fields ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from Avenue elevator or climb the arching St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Opens at footbridge at Piety and Chartres streets, and 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.audubonstroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade. institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or Stretching from the French Quarter to the Bywater 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 neighborhood, the park offers jogging and biking CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of paths, a dog run and picture-perfect picnic areas the dead” act as windows on the past, offering inwww.crescentparknola.org. . Map 3, J6 sight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, ENTERGY GIANT SCREEN THEATER Eye-popping just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; features are shown on a five-and-a-half-story Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans screen. $11.95 adults, $9.95 seniors, $9.95 ages of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for schedule of her works there. Many are located in high-crime and closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, 1 Canal St., day or night.

504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEM ETERYJust down the river from where Andrew

Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears his name is the battlefield where he fought the last battle of the War of 1812. History buffs can check out the visitor center, listen to daily ranger talks, explore Chalmette National Cemetery or relax under the park’s live oaks. https://www.nps.gov/ jela/chalmette-battlefield.htm. 8606 W St Bernard Hwy., 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3 CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush

canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www.ne-

FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Pl., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 FULTON ALLEY Putting a fresh spin on the old

bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor (bocce, foosball, etc.), cool craft cocktails and big-flavored small plates. Not a bowler? Not a prob. Both the bar and restaurant are accessible

CITY PARK’S DUELING OAK, near the entrance to the New Orleans Museum of Art, is where men would gather during the 1800s to conduct affaires d’honneur. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 41

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 61-63.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................41 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................44 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 46 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 46 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 47

separately from the alley. www.fultonalley.com.

600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569. Map 3, D6 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleansthemed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.588.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also

42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

Unlock History. hgghh.org | 504.274.0746

FOLLOW IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS It should have been impossible. Crossing the world’s widest ocean to answer an attack made by a powerful adversary.

Through hostile terrain and untold suffering, millions of Americans pushed past impossible to win the Pacific War. Follow in their footsteps on The Road to Tokyo, a new immersive experience at The National WWII Museum.

#1 Attraction in New Orleans #4 Museum in the United States

504.528.1944 | NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

THE GUIDE

10 A.M. UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 THE THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-

of-the-art movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining from its in-house Gusto Café and Bar. www.thetheatres.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

group city and plantation tours, in addition to private excursions. Hotel pickups available; rates vary. www.celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

We have DIRECTV NBA league pass Riverside Dining SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER

Across from Harrah’s Casino next to Hilton Hotel

Come ll watch a est the hott ! tion MLB ac

21 47" LG LCD T.V.’s

Gourmet Burgers, Wings, Gourmet Pizzas, Salads & Po-Boys

504-247-9265 • www.poppystimeoutsportsbar.com

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 CRESCENT CITY BIKE TOURS These three-hour

guided bike rides explore the French Quarter and Tremé neighborhoods, along with Armstrong Park and the Mississippi riverfront. Tours are $49; rentals are $25/day. www.crescentcitybiketours.com. 626 N. Rampart St., 504.322.3455. Map 3, G3 FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$22. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 am - 4 pm by Admission

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs.

Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.

Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs.

Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 pm and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm and 7:30 pm) from

Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under.

Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 45

THE GUIDE

am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7

special focus on European and American paintings.

The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm; free. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2

VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free).

Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6

Museums & Exhibits

Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-

CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

small batches with big taste at this Lower Garden District micro-micro brewery. www.courtyardbrewing.com. 1020 Erato St.. Map 3, A7 CURE This cutting-edge lounge, housed in a former

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe a. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3

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400

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of local historic treasures features free changing EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-plus exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries and a variety of small plates, ranging from caviar S. RAMPART are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while and potato chips to grilled octopus. Open W-Su. 200 the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art Louisiana www.nolabubbles.com.

1036 N. Rampart St., Superdome are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres LA O Map 3, H3 UNIV 504.509.7644.

Y LO ERSIT St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 Y PL. FE EMPIRE BAR PaulEEGustings, who Esquire has called (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 100 O'K “the crustiest bartender on earth,” serves up 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 classic cocktails at Broussard’s casually elegant Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 BARO NNE in-house bar. www.broussards.com.

819 Conti St., LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Children learn 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked museum. Adults/children $8.50. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite am-5 pm; Su, noon-4:30 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 CARONDELET from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great amJulia St., 504.586.0725. Map 3, C6 biance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribthe historic eatery’s full menu. www.antoines.com. ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class . CHARLES 3, G4 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422.STMap military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. FreeEXCHANGE ALLEY cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends dom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Missurrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the sion: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers.

DORSIERE the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $26 MP www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com.

941 Bourbon St., adults, $22.50 seniors, $16.50 students/military, free CA E 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 DECATUR for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All RIVERFRONT ZIN GA STREETCAR STOPS MA Boundaries”: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an1 NOLA BREWING Weekly brewery tours, a massive Esplanade additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 tap room and in-house barbecue make this Insecterium a must- . PETERS 2 Ursulines N Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 stop for beer fans. www.nolabrewing.com. 3001 3 Dumaine Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the 4 Toulouse Canal South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive colRS PAT O’BRIEN’S BirthplaceS of thePHurricane cocktail, Place ETE S. ULA lection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with5 aBienvillethis complex features Ofour IT bars, a full menuShopping and the P

ORLEANS

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $10; $8 seniors/ students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6

COURTYARD BREWERY Beer lovers will fall for the

ST. PETER

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

school games (Jenga, skeeball, air hockey) are the draw...along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry?

Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. barcadianola.com.

601 Tchoupitoulas St, 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6

TOULOUSE

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6

ST. LOUIS

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items from second-line parades. Admission $10; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. www.backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2

CONTI

BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

BIENVILLE

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

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You’re invited to the original Rick’s Cabaret New Orleans You haven’t seen Bourbon St. until you’ve seen Rick’s

315

Cabaret Bourbon Street

www.Rickscabaretnola.com

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

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cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

b

URBAN SOUTH BREWERY Housed in a 19th-century

warehouse, this modern-minded brewery is out to “re-establish New Orleans as the beer capital of the South.” Its kid-friendly taproom (yes, you read right) features a variety of brews crafted on site. www.urbansouthbrewery.com. 1645 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.67.4852. Map 1, E4

• Open 6 Days • Closed Tuesdays • Dinner served 5pm-till • Live Music

Live Entertainment BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5

536 Frenchmen 504.252.4801 3musesnola.com

CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone,

this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. Live music Tu-Sa. www.hotelmonteleone.com. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4

c

D.B.A. This chic hangout p features 20 premium

draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5

LIVE LOCAL MUSIC

FRENCH QUARTER

7 NIGHTS A WEEK

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the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of top-tier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4

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since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4

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quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

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ahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park

American Aquatic Garden

SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of

Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers two locations

and a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 49

THE GUIDE

Navigate Hit the Road

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, complete with a new 35-gate terminal due to open in 2018.

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

©SHAWN FINK

Worlds apart from New Orleans but just a short drive away, Cajun country (p. 51) is almost a state within a state, comprising 22 parishes in the southwest portion of Louisiana.

Take a group of Nova Scotians and Québécois displaced by Canada’s French and Indian War during the 1750s, add a handful of Native American tribes and a sprinkling of German immigrants, and you get the rich cultural mix that is Acadiana. With the bustling city of Lafayette at its center, it’s easy to explore the hundreds of tiny towns that dot the region. From the low rolling hills in the north to the muddy bayous in the south—and all the crawfish, boudin and zydeco between—a visit to Cajun country is well worth a day (or two) trip.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index General Information........................................................................... 50 Nearby Destinations............................................................................51 Cajun Country...........................................................................................51 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 51 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 51 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................51 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................51 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 51 Transportation ....................................................................................... 50

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters and a growing number of popular eateries. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5 CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military

outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residental shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE ARTS DISTRICT This “Southern

SoHo” adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history

and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

LAFOURCHE PARISH Founded in 1807, Lafourche

was one of the Louisiana’s original parishes when it became a state in 1812. Situated along Bayou Lafourche, which extends to the Gulf of Mexico, the area is rich in fish and wildlife, making it an ideal location for early Acadian settlers. The Jean Lafitte National Park Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux, the parish seat, offers insight into Cajun life, while swamp tours provide an upclose look local flora and fauna. Thibodaux is also home to the Laurel Village Sugar Plantation and Museum (the largest surviving 19th–century sugar plantation in the U.S.) and Nicholls State University (aka “Harvard on the Bayou”). www.visitlafourche. com. 985.537.5800.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time, cher. www. houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Retro Romance Destination weddings take on a whole new meaning along historic River Road, where bridal parties don’t just travel to another time zone, but to an entirely different era.

Most plantations offer wedding packages, from elaborate affairs to simple ceremonies. At Destrehan, for example, vows are exchanged in a rustic 1830s mule barn, while Nottoway (shown), with its exquisite all-white ballroom, full-service salon and on-site honeymoon suite, is more refined.

At Oak Alley couples gather beneath a picturesque canopy of 300-year-old oaks to say their “I dos.” Houmas House, with its 38 acres of lush gardens and varied venues (from the pristine Grand Lawn to the Asianinspired Tea House), can conduct multiple ceremonies at once, helping secure its placement among The Knot’s list of the nation’s best wedding facilities.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $18 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the CIvil War; today only a handful remain.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

©NOTTOWAY PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 58 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 58 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 59 Dining........................................................................................................... 60

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 60 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

MAP 1 NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

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THE GUIDE

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62 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 t S Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 in e RH a v OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 Sp hA AveOmni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 OO c n i l o kPL n R a Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 Fr St PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 7 Street Direction SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 French Quarter WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 E4 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 Jazzy Passes WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

First-Time Visitor

Luxury Seeker

History Buff

Track the trail of powdered sugar down Decatur Street, and you’ll find folks lined up outside (1) Café Du Monde, as they have since 1862. Don’t let the long lines deter you; the trademark café au lait and beignets are worth the wait. Celebrating death may seem macabre, but here it’s a way of life. New Orleans’ most popular “city of the dead” is (2) St. Louis Cemetery #1, just outside of the French Quarter, which counts voodoo priestess Marie Laveau and (still-living) actor Nicolas Cage among its aboveground tombs. The crumbling walls at the (3) Napoleon House hint at its early age. A warm muffuletta and an icy Pimm’s Cup in the courtyard make for a picture-perfect NOLA moment.

It seems only fitting that a city so obsessed with food would be home to the first culinary antiques store. (1) Lucullus sates epicureans’ hunger for fine-dining collectibles with gastronomic treasures from the 17th through 20th centuries. Its location in a small industrial space near the Contemporary Arts Center provides the first whiff of evidence that (2) Avery Fine Perfumery isn’t your average scents shop. At this “smell gallery” perfume is elevated to an art form via rare fragrances.

An elegant escape inside the equally elegant Roosevelt Hotel, the (3) Waldorf Astoria Spa offers a wide range of body services, in addition to lavish indulgences that incorporate diamonds and 24-carat gold.

The (1) French Market is the nation's oldest public market. Recently revamped, the open-air venue retains its historic ambience while offering a number food stalls, along with fresh produce and souvenir items. With its numerous properties and hundreds of holdings, the (2) Historic New Orleans Collection is the perfect place to brush up on the city’s backstory; check out its Louisiana History Galleries. (3) Antoine’s has been the standard-bearer of local culinary traditions for 175 years. The longest-operating, familyrun restaurant in the U.S. has fed and feted everyone from Calvin Coolidge to Whoopi Goldberg with such signature dishes as oysters Rockefeller, which originated here.

64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2017

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK; ©SHAWN FINK; ©NAPOLEON HOUSE (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; ©ROOSEVELT HOTEL; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©HNOC; ©GOURMET REISE/NOCVB

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS