Where New Orleans August 2017

AUGUST 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

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WHAT’S NOW

Hot art, cool seafood and sizzling dining deals SATCHMO FEST MUSEUM MONTH RED DRESS RUN

Chef Aarón Sánchez

FOLLOW IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS It should have been impossible. Crossing the world’s widest ocean to answer an attack made by a powerful adversary.

Through hostile terrain and untold suffering, millions of Americans pushed past impossible to win the Pacific War. Follow in their footsteps on The Road to Tokyo, a new immersive experience at The National WWII Museum.

#1 Attraction in New Orleans #4 Museum in the United States

504.528.1944 | NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

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New Orleans CONTENTS

08.17

SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

the plan

the guide 18

7 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Leah Hoyt Concierge at the Windsor Court Hotel.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood.

Plus a taste of red beans and slurping oysters.

8 Editor's Itinerary A 90-minute exploration of Tremé to make the most of your time in the city.

XX 26 SHOPPING

10 Hot Dates

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus stellar spas and wearing your food.

Red Dress Run The crimson tide, James Taylor, Lionel Richie, Satchmo SummerFest and 22 other entertainment ideas to entertain.

14

GALLERIES &

34 ANTIQUES XX

39

ENTERTAINMENT

XX

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and music clubs. Plus cooking classes and jazz Mass.

50

NAVIGATE

XX

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus a Cajun country road trip.

64 Where Inside: New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for sports buffs, LGBTQ travelers and ghost hunters.

ON THE COVER

AUGUST 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

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chez, part of the

WHAT’S NOW

New Orleans

where now

Hot art, cool seafood and sizzling dining deals SATCHMO FEST MUSEUM MONTH RED DRESS RUN

and Irons" exhibit at the Southern Food and Bever-

15

®

Chef Aarón Sán"Shakers, Knives

58

Chef Aarón Sánchez

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age Museum. ©ROMNEY CARUSO

7/6/17 11:36 AM

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus picture-perfect plantation weddings.

A salute to Satchmo: Louis Armstrong landmarks.

Dog days dining deals, family fun and Pops' music.

15 Art + Culture

Museum Month must-sees.

16 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

XX

12 Local Knowledge 14 Out + About

CONNECT WITH US

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Chill meals, hot restaurant dish and a salty-malty ice cream pie.

4 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2 01 7

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 61-63

(LEFT) ©LISA WHITEMAN; (CENTER, TOP) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY/PALACE CAFÉ; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

A citywide gallery crawl.

Plus white-hot art strolls.

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Leah Hoyt Concierge at the Windsor Court Hotel

Q: Restaurants citywide offer COOLinary dining deals this month. Name three visitors should seek out.

A: This a great excuse, if you haven’t already, to experience Commander’s Palace (p. 24).

Between its wonderful COOLinary menu and 25¢ martinis, it’s a great way to spend an afternoon. Angeline (p. 20) and the Pelican Club (p. 24) are other personal favorites.

Q: August is also New Orleans Museum Month. Which museum do you most often recommend to guests?

A: The National WWII Museum (p. 45); it’s so phenomenal. Even someone who visited it five years ago will be astonished by how much it’s grown. I’m also super-excited about the “Pride of Place” exhibit at the New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 46).

Q: White or Dirty Linen Night?

A: That’s a tough one; I like both. You could argue that you can’t go to Dirty Linen until you’ve been to White Linen and sullied yourself.

Q: What art gallery are you most drawn to?

A: Boyd Satellite (p. 34), a pop art gallery on Julia Street.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©PELICAN CLUB

Q: Where would you suggest for a day trip?

A: I love Avery Island—the gardens, the bird sanctuary—and the tour of the Tabasco plant (p. 43) is fascinating. If you don’t feel like driving, they now have a bus that will pick you up and take you there.

You have lunch at their restaurant and come back the same day.

Pelican Club

7

EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY NEWS TO TRAVEL BY

The Essential New Orleans August in New Orleans isn’t for everyone. Even ardent outdoor enthusiasts tend to opt for airconditioned confines. Still there is plenty to draw you out, from Satchmo SummerFest and great dining deals to Museum Month and the Red Dress Run. But this isn’t a marathon; remember to pace yourself and stay hydrated.

90 MINUTES IN

Faubourg Tremé With its vibrant second-line parades, colorful Mardi Gras Indians and roof-raising brass bands, Tremé (p. 51), bordered by Esplanade and N. Rampart and St. Louis and N. Broad, is a hot bed of local culture. The nation’s oldest AfricanAmerican neighborhood is home to Armstrong Park, where jazz is said to have originated, the Mahalia Jackson and Carver theaters and the circa-1841 St. Augustine Catholic Church, where a lively jazz Mass is held each Sunday.

In addition to the popular Backstreet Cultural Museum, the area counts Le Musée de f.p.c and the Degas House, along with Dooky Chase Restaurant, which houses it’s own impressive art collection and has fed everyone from Duke Ellington to President Barack Obama.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

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8 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

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WHERE CALENDAR AUGUST

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TOP STOPS

HOT

19 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

CHAMPIONS SQUARE Aug. 2: Incubus with Jimmy Eat World; Aug. 4: 311 with New Politics. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

DATES

HOUSE OF BLUES Aug. 19: Brewsiana Craft Beer and Music Festival; Aug. 30: Social Distortion. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583 JOY THEATER Aug. 3: 2 Chainz; Aug. 13: Lil Yachty; Aug. 27: MattyB. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569

Red Dress Run

The run on red frocks at area thrift stores is a sure sign the annual Red Dress Run can’t be far away.

“The biggest and best little Red Dress event in the world” moves to Crescent Park this year, where it kicks off at 11 am, fueled by live entertainment and “more beer than you can imagine.” Over the course of the two-mile trek, participants help raise funds for local charities—generating more than $1-million for 100-plus organizations over the past two decades. The race is done by noon, but you’ll spot scarlet-hued stragglers well into the wee hours. Consider yourself warned. nolareddress.com

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

JAMES TAYLOR > AUG. 3 “Sweet Baby James” pulls into the Smoothie King Center, accompanied by fellow Grammy great Bonnie Raitt. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 1

Taylor caption here

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

VAN JONES > AUG. 17 The CNN commentator joins forces with Jay-Z’s Roc Nation for “We Rise,” a national speaking tour that examines the political landscape.

Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 4

SATCHMO SUMMERFEST > AUG. 46 Grab a white hanky and head to the Old U.S. Mint for this 17th annual salute to Louis Armstrong. (See p. 14 for details.) 400 Esplanade Ave.; fqfi.org

5 LIL WEEZIANA FEST > AUG. 25 Mystikal, Big Freedia, Drake, Chris Brown: You never know who might show up during Lil Wayne’s annual celebration of New Orleans rap, hip-hop and bounce music. Champions Square, 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

GREAT AMERICAN SEAFOOD COOKOFF > AUG. 5 Chefs from around the country vie for the title of “King of American Seafood” during this fishy competition at the Convention Center, which coincides with the Louisiana Foodser-

NEW ORLEANS SAINTS > AUG. 26 & 31 The Saints kick off their 51st year with two preseason games at the Superdome, taking on the Houston Texans Aug. 26, before tackling the Baltimore Ravens Aug. 31. Both games take place at 7 pm. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

2

Saints

vice & Hospitality Expo. 900 Convention Center Blvd.; lraexpo.org

3

10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

6

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Aug. 6: Lionel Richie and Mariah Carey; Aug. 9: John Mayer.

1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 THREE KEYS Aug. 2: Helen Gillet; Aug. 24: PJ Morton.

Ace Hotel, 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180 TIPITINA’S Aug. 11, 18 & 25: Free Fridays Concert Series; Aug. 19: Lost Bayou Ramblers with Motel Radio. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477 UNO LAKEFRONT ARENA Aug. 6: Bryson Tiller; Aug. 11: R. Kelly; Aug. 23: Lost ’80s Live Tour.

6801 Franklin Ave., 800.745.3000

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER) ©LISA WHITEMAN; (BOTTOM) ©MICHAEL C. HEBERT

AUGUST 12:

SAENGER THEATRE Aug. 15: “Bring It!” Live. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

where now

New Orleans

The city’s top attractions, events, dining and more LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Searching for Satchmo Retracing Louis Armstrong’s legendary footsteps

BY MICHAEL ZELL

12 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

LOUIS ARMSTRONG,

son of New Orleans, left the city in 1922 on his way to becoming the internationally celebrated “Satchmo.” Though he died in 1971 in his adopted home of Queens, NY, his ghost still walks these streets and his lasting legacy continues to influence the city’s music.

(ALL IMAGES) ©SHAWN FINK; (OPENING PAGE) ©LOUIS ARMSTRONG HOUSE MUSEUM

Satchmo SummerFest (p. 14) returns to the Old U.S. Mint this month. The dates of Aug. 4-6 honor Armstrong’s birthday, as do many of the festival’s performers by incorporating an Armstrong song or two into their sets. Beat the heat by stepping inside for the air-conditioned music stage, a dance lesson and to hear speakers discuss the late jazz great and the context of his era. This year’s headliner is Grammy-winning trumpeter Nicholas Payton, who wrote, “Louis Armstrong’s trumpet is like the voice of God. He’s not asking; he’s telling you.”

While there, be sure to scope out the recently christened New Orleans Jazz Museum, particularly to see Louis’ first cornet, which is on display.

The spirit of Satchmo perhaps most prominently exists in modern-day musician Kermit Ruffins, who performs regularly at the Little Gem Saloon, Blue Nile and various other venues, as well as at Satchmo Fest Aug. 6. “Louis played simplicity at its best,” says Ruffins. “This was a real strong man to be able to do what he did.

Armstrong Park

I’m blessed enough to play some of the notes—they actually hurt like hell—and he did it constantly, night after night. To follow in his footsteps, you have to first be physically strong and then technically able to do it.”

The most noticeable Satchmo landmark in New Orleans is, of course, Armstrong Park in Tremé, just outside the French Quarter.

Enter under the arched name in lights. To the left is Congo Square,

New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint

where enslaved Africans once danced and sold goods on Sundays; elsewhere the beautifully landscaped park is dotted with sculptures of Buddy Bolden, Sidney Bechet and other music legends. Appropriately, Armstrong’s statue stands in a prominent central spot—trumpet in one hand, handkerchief in the other—taking in all that surrounds him.

But that’s not the only place you’ll feel Pop’s presence. As a youth, Armstrong worked at the Karnofsky family tailor shop on S. Rampart Street, a stone’s throw from the present-day Little Gem Saloon. He felt so connected to the Jewish family who helped him purchase his first horn that he

Armstrong’s birthplace marker

Armstrong’s ghost still walks these streets and his lasting legacy continues to influence the city’s music. wore a Star of David for the rest of his life. The Karnofskys, whose surname has since been shortened to Karno, now operate the Cornet restaurant at 700 Bourbon Street.

Stop in for a plate of red beans and rice—Louis’ favorite dish.

One of Armstrong’s bestknown tunes is “Basin Street Blues.” Take a stroll along Basin, from the Saenger Theatre to St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, and imagine bygone days when Storyville, the notorious red-light district of the early 1900s, was in full, hedonistic swing. Satchmo not only played there but also starred in “New Orleans,” the 1947 movie about the district, along with Billie Holiday. Razed in 1917, Storyville and the music it gave rise to is also the subject of

author David Fulmer’s acclaimed mystery series and a free exhibit currently on view at the Historic New Orleans Collection’s Williams Research Center.

A handful of other Armstrongrelated sites are also worth a visit.

Catch the Louisiana State Museum’s ongoing Carnival exhibition at the Presbytère in Jackson Square, which chronicles Satchmo’s return to New Orleans for Mardi Gras in 1949, when he rode as king of Zulu. Then check out the Zulu memorabilia store at 807 N. Broad Street, not far from Gravier and Broad, where a commemorative plaque in the plaza of the Municipal Court building marks the site of Armstrong’s birthplace.

What a wonderful way to celebrate such a wonderful talent.

13

WHERE NOW New

Orleans Kidding Around School bells will soon be ringing. Soak up the family fun while you can.

ABITA MYSTERY HOUSE Remember those kitschy roadside attractions that once ruled the family road trip? The offbeat and oddball live on at this over-the-top fun house: hair-comb collections, animated dioramas, paint-bynumbers art. Well worth the hour drive … and $3 admission. 22275 Hwy. 36, Abita Springs, 985.892.2624; abitamysteryhouse.com AIRBOAT ADVENTURES These guided, high-speed excursions cover 20,000 acres of tidewater cypress swamp, affording up-close encounters with local wildlife. Ever petted a gator? You will. 504.689.2005; airboatadventures.com AUDUBON COOL ZOO Too hot to hoof it around all 58 acres of the zoo? Chill out at this animal-themed splash park, where a massive white alligator dumps 400 gallons of water at regular intervals.

Or tube it around the Gator Run

OUT+ABOUT

lazy river while live elephants look on. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629; auduboninstitute.org CITY PARK Between the pedal-boat rentals and gondola rides, the centuryold carousel and the pint-size amusement park, the miniature golf course and the botanical train garden, there’s plenty to keep small fries (and their big-kid counterparts) active in this sprawling urban oasis. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888, neworleanscitypark.com RIVER CRUISES The Creole Queen paddlewheeler and the steamboat Natchez both offer daily Mississippi River cruises that are perfect for bringing Huck Finn fantasies to life. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.567, creolequeen.com; Toulouse St. and the river, 504.569.1401, steamboatnatchez.com

POPS CULTURE The trademark trumpet and waving white handkerchief, the

Deals on Meals

joyful eyes and signature smile: All things Armstrong—the late

Summer’s swelter can really squelch an appetite. To help battle soaring temps and boost sales, local restaurants roll out hard-to-resist dining deals during the dog days. From Palace Café’s (p. 24) “Temperature Lunch” priced at the previous day’s high (95 degrees = $9.50) to Restaurant R’evolution’s (p. 24) fifthanniversary dinner special (five courses for $55), you’ll find great values all over town. Throughout August dozens of area eateries take part in COOLinary New Orleans, a citywide culinary celebration that makes fine dining affordable with prix fixe lunch and dinner specials. For a full lineup of venues and menus, visit coolinaryneworleans.com.

17th annual Satchmo SummerFest at the Old U.S. Mint (400

14 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

great Louis Armstrong—will be celebrated Aug. 4-6 during the Esplanade Ave.). For a mere $5 attendees are treated to performances by more than 100 leading local musicians (such as James Andrews, John Boutte, Ellis Marsalis and Kermit Ruffins), along with a variety of seminars and panel discussions featuring jazz scholars and Armstrong experts. Among the weekend’s high notes is a Sunday second-line parade and jazz Mass at historic St. Augustine Church. A complete list of performers, stages, times and related events is available at fqfi.org.

(LEFT) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY; (RIGHT) ©LISA WALTON; (BOTTOM) ©ZACK SMITH

Palace Café

Abita Mystery House

w w w.wheretrave ler.c o m

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM; ©ASHLEY LORRAINE/OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART; ©NOMA; ©ROMNEY CARUSO; ©HNOC

“Louisiana Contemporary”

Caption 7 pt, Myriad Pro Semi“Arsenal of Democracy”

ART+CULTURE

Museum Must-Sees

New Orleans Antiques Forum

Looking for a cool way to cool off? August—New Orleans Museum Month—is the perfect time to explore the city’s many museums. Purchase a membership to one, and visit the others for free all month. For details, visit touristathome.com. Among participating venues: HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION In addition to its Giants of Jazz exhibit, which pays homage to African-American music pioneers, and Storyville: Madams and Music, which revisits the city’s fabled redlight district, the HNOC offers A Most Significant Gift: The Laura Simon Nelson Collection and its 10th annual New Orleans Antiques Forum Aug. 3-6. 533 Royal St.; 410 Chartres St.; 400 Chartres St.; 504.523.4662 NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM The recently opened Arsenal of Democracy attraction salutes Home Front forces and life stateside during the global conflict. American industrial-

ization and racial divisions during the era are also examined.

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART Pride of Place frames the private collection of contemporary art dealer Arthur Roger.

Japanese Landscape: Inner Journeys explores similarities between early Asian works and the landscapes of local artist Regina Scully; Jim Steg: New Works celebrates the late great Crescent City printmaker. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART Opening Aug. 5, Louisiana Contemporary is a juried

exhibition of up-and-coming area artists. The impact of color film on regional photography is the focus of The Colorful South, while Troubled Waters turns the lens on Mississippi Delta photographer William Eggleston. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM Photographer Romney Caruso, known for his food and drink imagery, goes behind the bar and beneath the chef’s jacket to examine the art of tattooing in Shakers, Knives and Irons. Fine dining from the mid 1880s through World War I is digested in The Age of Elegance. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405

“Shakers, Knives and Irons”

“Pride of Place”

Myriad Pro Semi-bold Semi-extended Caption.

15

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed.

Johnny Sánchez FOOD+DRINK

FAUBOURG BISTRO Neatly tucked into the 700 Club bar near Armstrong Park, Faubourg rocks a menu of hearty pub food with humor. Food with humor? Yep. Evidence the “PB, B & J Wings” with Thai-style peanut sauce, bacon and spiced grape jelly, the red beans-and-rice veggie burger and the list of mac and cheese skillets—one of which tackles the flavor of pizza. With hours until 2 am and delivery service until midnight, there’s a lot to love here. 700 Burgundy St., 504.439.5842

Cold Comfort Food pundits tell us that the optimal way to cool down is to spice up what we eat. But, to be honest, cold foods—soups, snoballs, fruits and salads—are more appealing and obvious. The trick is finding dishes with cool on several levels.

Fruity Cool When ripe melons come in, High Hat Café (4500 Freret St., 504.754.1336) rolls out a juicy watermelon-and-crab salad with shaved red onion and lime vinaigrette. Equally exquisite is the snapper crudo with watermelon, lime, gardenia and jalapeño at Coquette (p. 24).

Seafood Cool Maïs Arepas (p. 19) serves all kinds of cool Colombian food, and the ceviches—tarted up with lime, onion and avocados—are divine. At Johnny Sánchez (p. 19) chefs Aarón Sánchez and Miles Landrem are always playing around with the architecture of Mexican food. Their ceviche pairs fresh-tasting cobia with sweet cucumbers and tomatoes, creamy avocado, passion fruit, habanero and crispy hominy for a slight Southern spin.

Soup Cool The gazpacho at the Standard (p.

25) changes on the chef’s whim,

but you can bank on cool combos like watermelon, cucumber Hot Tin and tomato. Café Degas (p. 25) is known for its heavenly potato and leek vichyssoise. Add some crusty French bread and good butter … magnifique.

Salad Cool Hit Haiku (4430 Magazine St., 504.301.0850) for its killer “King Cake” sushi roll—cream cheese and coconut shrimp inside, tuna, “eel sauce” and toasted almonds on top. Or make it Maypop (p.

19) for the crazy good “Chaat Salad” with coconut-cucumber ranch dressing.

Sweet Cool The flavors at Creole Creamery (4924 Prytania St., 504.894.8680) are both simple (chocolate, vanilla, etc.) and supremely cool; think honey-lavender, magnolia or jasmine flower. Café Bar packaged ice cream bars feature a coffee shell and ice cream centers. Grab a box at Rouses (p. 30) … and chill. —Lorin Gaudin

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

Faubourg Bistro

PICAYUNE SOCIAL HOUSE The menu at this CBD bar/pub, along what was once known as “Newspaper Row,” is eclectic and global, pulling heavily from the Mediterranean and East Asia.

There’s tandoor-baked naan bread topped with everything from pulled pork to falafel with tzatziki and feta. Check out the robust selection of salads, then dig into aromatic curry fries, homey deviled eggs and a creamy, buttery crab dip. Or hit happy hour, when all breads and spreads, as well as flatbreads, are half-priced. 326 Camp St., 504.308.3583 PUBLIC SERVICE At this new space in the recently rehabbed NOPSI Hotel, chef de cuisine Dustin Brien leads the kitchen, which honors Gulf Coast fishers and farmers in smart, modern style.

A whole roasted fish is glitzed with Champagne-laced agrodulce and tempered by popcorn rice; the “Basque Flat” is complex with white anchovies, roasted garlic, tarragon, Manchego and a fried egg. Kick things off with steak fries blanketed in cheddar bechamel. 317 Baronne St., 504.962.6527 —LG

LAST BITE Chef Mike Nelson, executive chef at GW Fins (p. 22), has a long history of whipping up desserts at the restaurant. Known and noted for his fondness of salty-sweet (his cheddar cheese-crusted apple pie, for instance), Nelson incorporated the yeasty flavor of malt for his Salty-Malty Ice Cream Pie. So airy, a side view of a slice appears to have layers like a Napoleon, but that’s the malty ice cream. On the bottom, a pretzel crust provides the salt, and then there is the caramel whipped cream, the caramel drizzle and a couple of chocolate-covered pretzels for garnish. Leaning slightly savory, this is a dessert for everyone, including the picky non dessert-lovers at the table. —LG

Caption

(LEFT) ©BEAU CIOLINO/JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ; (CENTER AND BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK

WHERE NOW New

the guide Dining August

The Red Beans Scene

Come Out of Your Shell

Louis Armstrong was so fond of New Orleans’ traditional Monday meal that he signed his letters “Red Beans and Ricely Yours.” Creamy, slow-cooked red beans are still a Monday menu mainstay at Mr. B’s Bistro (p. 23) and other eateries that pay homage to the city’s culinary heritage. They’re also given clever contemporary twists in dishes like the fried red beans-and-rice balls at Capdeville (p. 18, shown) or Dreamy Weenies’ (p. 22) rice- and beans-topped “Satchmo Dog.” But it’s Maypop (p. 19) that takes the cake with its sweet/ savory “Red Beans and Rice” dessert—a red bean-and-andouille tart, served with toastedrice ice cream, candied red beans, grapefruit and ginger.

National Oyster Day may fall on Aug. 5, but in New Orleans we slurp salty bivalves yearround. Belly up to the oyster bar at Acme (p. 20), Bourbon House (p. 21, shown), Pascal’s Manale (p. 25), Pêche (p. 19), Remoulade (p. 24) or Seaworthy (p. 19), where Gulf Coast beauties are joined by East and West Coast varieties.

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 CAFÉ ADELAIDE Louisiana. Chef Meg Bickford

helms this bistro spinoff of Commander’s Palace in the Loews Hotel, serving up playful takes on modern Creole cuisine. Try the oyster and pork belly po’ boy. B (daily), L (M-F), D (M-Su). www.cafeadelaide. com. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6 CAPDEVILLE American. Named for early 1900s

New Orleans mayor Paul Capdeville, this hip and sharply designed space turns out big, juicy burgers, hand-cut fries with delectable toppings (such as chorizo sausage and Manchego cheese) and other fresh spins on classic bar food. $ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.capdevillenola.com. 520 Capdeville St., 504.371.5161. Map 3, C6 18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com.

535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront res-

taurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot is counted among celebrated local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-ofthe-norm antipasta, handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 HERBSAINT French. James Beard Award-winning

chef Donald Link’s entrées range from confit of

(LEFT) ©CAPDEVILLE; (RIGHT) ©BOURBON HOUSE

Central Business/ Warehouse District

DINING

Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com.

701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Cauliflower tacos,

pig ear chilaquiles, tuna tostadas, crawfish enchiladas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare.

Celebrity chefs (and old friends) John Besh and Aarón Sánchez teamed to create this hip eatery, which puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www. johnnysanchezrestaurant.com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4

MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta (Mo-

Pho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining

venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants.com/meril.

424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6

NEW ORLEANS SOCIAL HOUSE Contemporary.

Noshing on sharable small plates—lobster tacos, bison sliders, salmon tartines, octopus salad—while sipping craft cocktails and wine, is the idea here. Live music nightly. $$ D (nightly). www.noshneworleans.com. 752 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.1103. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap (including a full line of locally made Abita brews), live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RESTAURANT AUGUST French. In New Orleans,

chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a vision. The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s award-winning Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a wide wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and braised lamb pasta. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue

and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L, D (W-Su). www.centralcitybbq.com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS Latin. This upscale Creole-Colombi-

an restaurant puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. Off the beaten path, but worth the hunt. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 ROUX CARRÉ Eclectic. A food port for emerging

businesses representing New Orleans’ diverse culinary culture. Vendors include Diva Dawg, Estralita’s Express, Johnny’s Jamaican Grill, Black Swan Food w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 19

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................18

Central City..................................................................................................19 French Quarter........................................................................................20 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 24 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................24 Mid-City..........................................................................................................24 Uptown..........................................................................................................25

Experience and the Pupusa Lady. $ L (daily), D (FSa). www.rouxcarre.com. 2000 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.309.2073. Map 1, D3 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell.

Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’ boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the Gulf shrimp and country ham with butterbeans and sweet potatoes. $$$ D (W-Su); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola. com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospital20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

DINING

ity and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Neal Swindler serves up modern Creole cuisine (Caribbean fish with smoked black bean sauce), along with Old World classics. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks,

and delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restau-

rant provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails, such as the Bombo, are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as jerk chicken, plantain dumplings and deep-fried ribs with w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 21

THE GUIDE

papaya chutney. $$ L (F), D (nightly); brunch, Sa-Su. www.caneandtablenola.com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 CLOVER GRILL American. The prospect of big juicy

burgers, overstuffed omelets and a cheeky version of retro 1950s ambiance draws all walks of life to this Bourbon Street institution at all hours. The theatrics on both sides of the counter are often worthy of a Fellini film. $ Open 24h. www.clovergrill.com.

900 Bourbon St., 504.598.1010. Map 3, H4 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The

French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the baby back ribs, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and fresh grilled redfish with soft-shell crab. Live jazz nightly (no cover). $$ L, D (daily). www.crescentcitybrewhouse. com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue rib eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. Save room for the killer coconut cake. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DREAMY WEENIES American. Kosher, vegan, halal;

curry sauce, pico de gallo, tzaziki. This isn’t your average hot dog vendor...and all the better for it.

Cash only. $ L, D (daily). www.dreamyweenies.com.

740 N. Rampart St., 504.872.0158. Map 3, G3 FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE Coffee. Named for the

vintage Citroën vehicles it uses for deliveries to local restaurants and grocers, French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first microroster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. $ Open daily. www.frenchtruckcoffee.com. 221 Chartres St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, F4; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, A7; 4536 Dryades St., 504.298.1115. Map 1, D4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Owners Gary Wollerman and

chef Tenney Flynn have taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

Oyster Happy Hour from 3-6pm. Monday-Friday. .50 Raw & $1.00 char-grilled with an adult beverage purchase.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

DINING

prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet, Fats Domino’s autographed piano top and Madonna’s G-string. Live music four nights a week. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

Visit us at Crazy Lobster Destin. Located in the Village of Baytowne Wharf

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro is a perennial hot spot. The menu is filled with Emeril creations such as Louisiana crab cakes with Creole tartar sauce, pork cheek boudin balls with tomato-bacon jam and a grilled double-cut pork chop with pecan-glazed sweet potatoes.

Don’t leave without tasting the banana pudding layer cake. $$ L (Th-M), D (nightly). www.emerils. com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 PELICAN CLUB Louisiana. A well-kept secret of sav-

vy gourmets. Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors.

The seared tuna with Gulf shrimp is excellent, as are the roasted baby lamb rack, filet of tenderloin with wild mushroom sauce. Try the seafood martini appetizer. $$ D (daily). www.pelicanclub.com. 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated; try the turtle soup, shrimp remoulade or oysters from the raw bar. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed (Limoges china, purse stools), while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www. revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south

of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

with grilled pineapple). $$ B, L, D (daily). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance

meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the Korean beef po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 TRINITY Louisiana. The menu here pays homage

to the “trinity” of flavors, elements and techniques in New Orleans cuisine. Hush puppies get richness from duck fat, while the cucumber salad refreshes with crisp apples and pairs perfectly with the citrusy seared snapper. $$$ D (nightly), brunch (F-Su). www.trinityrestaurantneworleans.com. 1117 Decatur St., 504.325.5789. Map 3, I5

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes and decadent chocolate beignets making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 LULA RESTAURANT DISTILLERY Louisiana. The

menu here pairs with the vodka, rum and gin made on site. Think boudin eggrolls with fig-molasses sauce, rum-lacquered shrimp and braised rabbit with white beans. Ask for a tour of the distillery. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.lulanola.com. 1532 St. Charles Ave., 504.267.7624. Map1, D3 POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-

you-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes (edamame, fish roe, etc.). $ L, D (daily) www.eatpokeloa.com. 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and hot mustard, chicken

fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L, D (W-Su). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. A Sunday-only treasure no

more. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is now a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard.

Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 CAFÉ HENRI Mediterranean. The menu at this

casual corner café is smartly small and neat, the cocktails are cool and the vibe is easy. Start with the boquerones toast, then slip into risotto with beets and hazelnuts or a seafood stew loaded with Gulf fish, shrimp and clams. A frozen Negroni? Yes, please. $$ D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). henri.cafe.

800 Louisa St., no phone. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crawfish beignets, bone marrow tartine), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Sa-Su (brunch). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 DAT DOG American. Here, the ho-hum hot dog

stand gets glammed up with imported wieners and sausages tucked into sweet sourdough rolls. Toppings range from standard to sublime (crawfish etouffée, mango-habanero sauce), and sodas are made in-house. Great beer selection. $ (L, D) daily. www.datdognola.com. 601 Frenchmen St., 504.309.3362. Map 3, J5; 3336 Magazine St., 504.868.4391. Map 1, D4; 5030 Freret St., 504.899.6883. Map 1, D3 KEBAB Mediterranean. At this creative eatery/pin-

ball parlor, spit-turned meats or crisp-fried falafel are piled on fresh-baked, herb-topped bread, loaded with fresh vegetables and lashed with your choice of sauces. $ L, D (W-M). www.kebabnola. com. 2315 St. Claude Ave., 504.383.4328. Map 3, K4 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3

DINING

CAFÉ DEGAS French. Artist Edgar Degas briefly

lived and painted just a few blocks from this French café bearing his name. An all-weather patio provides the perfect setting for such signature French fare as escargots, lamb, roasted duck and an array of daily specials. $$ L, D (W-Su); Su brunch. www.cafedegas.com. 3127 Esplanade Ave., 504.945.5635. Map 1, D2 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran

restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

(Toups South, Emeril’s Delmonico) is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown APOLLINE Louisiana. In this renovated shotgun

house, contemporary twists on French/Creole cuisine make diners feel right at home. Char-broiled oysters with bacon marmalade, cold-smoked pork chops, seared scallops with maque choux and pork plank; at brunch try the confit duck with potato hash, duck cracklin and Hollandaise. $$$ Brunch, D (Tu-Su). www.apollinerestaurant.com. 4729 Magazine St., 504.894.8881. Map 1, D4 AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great off-the-

beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathaniel Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’ boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s Riverbend restaurant is light and airy. His market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.carrolltonmarket.com.

8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 3, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s casual coastal cuisine. Start with the clam chowder or catfish Hoppin’ John, before moving on to the seared Gulf fish. Or just grab a cocktail at the bar, while munching on Old Bay-seasoned fries. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.cavannola.com.

3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DEL FUEGO Mexican. Chef David Wright and bar

gal Shannon Solomon’s ramped-up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during

their travels to Mexico. House-made tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.delfuegotaqueria.com. 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays

homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine.

Think oyster toast, alligator chorizo-stuffed squash blossoms and gumbo with crab fat rice. Killer cocktail program. $$ D (M-Sa); brunch (F-M). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 HANSEN’S SNOBLIZ Dessert. SInce 1934 locals

have been lining up for Hansen’s signature snowballs. Topped with a huge assortment of made-from-scratch syrups, the shaved-ice treats are a summer must-have. www.snobliz.com. 4801 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.891.9788. Map 1, D4 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. What once was a

corner grocery has been exquisitely transformed into an intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.lapetitegrocery.com.

4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 MAGASIN Vietnamese. This hot spot’s minimal-

ist design is almost as much of a draw as its filet mignon pho, grilled pork banh mi and lemongrasschicken spring rolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.magasincafe.com. 4201 Magazine St., 504.896.7611. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE American. A New Orleans

landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food.

Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS Louisiana. Chef Aaron Burgau has earned

all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a young man “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Su brunch. www.patoisnola.com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

Israel at this award-winning modern Mediterranean eatery from chef Alon Shaya of restaurant Domenica fame. Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant.com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 THE STANDARDSouthern. “Normal food for nor-

mal people” is draw at this casual neighborhood spot. Lunch brings above-standard salads and sandwiches, while dinner turns on the Southern charm with buttermilk fried chicken, pork chops and more homey goodness. $$ L, D (Tu-F); brunch (Sa-Su). 504.509.7306. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

THE GUIDE

Shopping

Relaxation Stations

Flatware Finery

Need a vacation from vacationing? Treat yourself to a little end-of-summer indulgence with a visit to one of the city’s stellar spas. The Spa at the Ritz-Carlton (p. 31) offers more than 100 treatments; double your pleasure with a couple’s massage, which includes Champagne for two. Balance Spa in the Loews Hotel (504.595.5333) caters to frequent fliers with a “Traveler’s Tonic Massage,” while the elegant Spa at the Windsor Court (504.596.4736, shown) helps them refresh with its oxygen-infused “Royal Facial” and the Roosevelt Hotel’s Waldorf Astoria Spa (p. 31) pampers with diamonds and gold; all three provide spa-goers with free access to their fitness centers and pools.

New Orleanians love their food so much ... they wear it. Take Gamache Designs’ culinary cuffs, for example. The tasteful bracelets feature a single utensil (fork, knife or spoon) on a slim band or a complete set on a wide cuff. You’ll find them at NOLA Boards (p. 32), along with other cool kitchen collectibles.

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, along with a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live in-store performances on Saturdays. www.louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings.

Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s

fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www. billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

BUFFALO EXCHANGE Unhappy with

the clothes you packed? Trade ’em for a new look at this award-winning resale shop. An everchanging inventory keeps the fashions fresh and affordable. Used clothing may be exchanged for any item in the store. www.buffaloexchange.com.

4119 Magazine St., 504.891.7443. Map 1, D4 DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part

boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5 DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans

couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 FLEURTY GIRL When Lauren Haydel began print-

ing T-shirts in her kitchen in 2009 little did she know just how big the small venture would quickly become. Today her popular designs celebrat-

ing local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3

H&M The Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hardto-resist prices. www.hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HATTIE SPARKSThis sleek boutique’s well-curated

stock features everything from select women’s wear and hip home accents to cool cards and outof-the-norm gift items. www.hattiesparks.com. 939 Girod St., 504.510.5060. Map 3, B4 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.269.4005. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 JADE AUSTIN Designed with the Southern woman

in mind, this breezy boutique specializes in linen and cotton clothing by such makers as FLAX, Match Point and Mosaic. Select bamboo items are also featured. www.jadeaustinllc.com. 3652 Magazine St., 504.702.8515. Map 1, D4

TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE, produced in Avery Island, La., is labeled in 22 languages and sold in more than 165 countries and territories around the globe.

26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

(LEFT) ©SPA AT THE WINDSOR COURT; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

SHOPPING

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www. louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 26

Clothing........................................................................................................ 26 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 28 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 30 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 30 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 30 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 31 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 32 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 33 Shoes............................................................................................................... 33 Special Services...................................................................................... 33

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4 WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European women’s wear,

from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by such leading designers as Piazza Sempione and Stella McCartney. www.weinsteinsinc.com. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

KIT AND ACEThis lululemon offshoot is known for

its line of “technical cashmere” clothing. Geared to both sexes, the chic shop’s luxe street wear is both versatile and machine-washable. www.kitandace. com. 3913 Magazine St., 844.548.6223. Map 1, D4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 PENELOPE Affordable luxury is the key phrase at

this sophisticated women’s boutique. Searching for edgy elegance with a European accent? You’ll find it here at hard-to-beat prices: All items are under $100. 328 Chartres St., 504.522.5893. Map 3, F4 TOTAL WOMAN This boutique offers such design-

ers as Diane von Furstenberg, Trina Turk, Vince and Shin Choi, in addition to shoes and accessories

by Tracy Reese, Robert Rodriguez and Gucci. www.totalwomanola.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.891.3964. Map 1, D4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers hand-crafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4

LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

TUXEDOS TO GEAUXWhy rent a tux when you can

NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s

own one? This formal wear shop dresses men to the nines—complete with shirt, tie and cummerbund—for under $200. www.tuxedostogeaux.com.

3400 16th St., Metairie, 504.455.5393. Map 1, C2

28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift

3536 TOULOUSE ST NOLATILYADIE.COM 504.281.4928

ART & EY&S

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494

artandeyesnola.com

It’s SUMMER.....

How HOT are you?

INDY EYEWEAR LIKE NO WHERE ELSE.

THE GUIDE

SHOPPING

items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 PLUM This hip home and gift shop is devoted to

“cool stuff for stylish living,” much of which is created by local crafters. Handmade housewares, artful accents, jazzy jewelry: If it’s both fun and functional, you’ll likely find it here. www.plumneworleans.com.

1914 Magazine St., 504.897.3388. Map 1, D4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 SANTA’S QUARTERS Need a little Christmas right

this very minute? Load up the sleigh at this holidaythemed shop—the South’s largest—selling nativity sets, specialty lights and locally crafted ornaments year-round. www.santasquartersno.com. 1027 Decatur St., 504.581.5820. Map 3, H5 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits AUNT SALLY’S PRALINE SHOP Chances are you’ll

catch the sweet scent of Aunt Sally’s clear down the block. Created from Louisiana cane sugar and pecans, pralines are made fresh daily in the store’s kitchen. The shelves are also stocked with Crescent City souvenir items. www.auntsallys.com. 810 Decatur St., 504.524.3373. Map 3, H5 KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.809.1026. Map 1, D4 LAURA’S CANDIES Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4 SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERSYou can catch a sugar

buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). www.southerncandymakers. com. 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2

Hats & Accessories FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 AVERY FINE PERFUMERY This artisanal fragrance

”smell gallery” is one of only 18 in the world and the Italian-based InterTrade Europe group’s sole stand-alone, stateside location. Hard-to-find niche brands such as Blood Concept and Boadicea are featured. www.averyfineperfumeries.com. 527 St. Joseph St., 504.522.7102. Map 3, B6 FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outra-

2048 MAGAZINE ST | 537 ROYAL ST

Where do you want to go?

Find the best of the city

SHOPPING

geous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 SEPHORA The local branch of the nation’s leading

719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222 Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET

FREE LIFETIME ALTERATIONS • YEAR ROUND SERVICE

cosmetics and perfume retailer offers more than 13,000 products from 200-plus brands, all of which can be tested on site. www.sephora.com. 414 N. Peters St., 504.561.9889. Map 3, F5; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.830.4567. Map 1, C2 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7; 140 Carondelet St. Map 3, D3 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

123 Baronne St., 504.335.3190. Map 3, E3

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Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 COUTELIER Form and function combine at this

Riverbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are knifesharpening services, cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks.com. 8239 Oak St., 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

(504) 455-5393 • 3400 16TH STREET, METAIRIE, LA 70002 • NEXT TO IMPASTATO’S RESTAURANT

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also feaw w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

THE GUIDE

tured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com.

519 Wilkinson Row, 504.516.2601. Map 3, G5; 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4

Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

Gizmos • Gadgets • Gifts of Wood Toys • Boxes • Games •

NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

A

SPRUCE Does your space need a spruce up? Start

• Clocks • Puzzles • Office

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4

Papier Plume 842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

by stopping in at this eco-conscious interiors studio. Funky fabrics, one-of-a-kind wallpaper and design consultation services are offered. www.sprucenola.com. 2043 Magazine St., 504.265.0946. Map 1, D4

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear NO-WM_140400_IdeaFactory.indd 1

3/10/14 11:24:10 AM

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-

nered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4

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MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5

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WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

mid-century modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to themselves, or to friends, then purchase later

32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

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SHOPPING

online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4 WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely

devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and art deco designs. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

B

A

Malls/Major Retailers JAX BREWERY This 1891 brewhouse is now a

riverfront marketplace with three levels of shops and restaurants. www.jacksonbrewery.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.566.7245. Map 3, G5 LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace. com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

books, toys, gifts & apparel

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professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. www.shoebedousa.com.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In addition

to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. www. frenchquarterpostal.com. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4

C B A

PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques Street Scenes Art goes alfresco this month with two great gallery crawls taking place within a week of each other.The Warehouse District goes monochromic Aug. 5 during White Linen Night (cacno.org), when thousands of art lovers decked in their breezy best canvas Julia Street to see what’s new on the walls at galleries between the 300 and 600 blocks and along adjacent side streets. Live bands perform while local restaurants and bars serve up edible art d from 5:30 to 9:30 pm; the party then continues at the Contemporary Arts Center (p. 44). The following week (Aug. 12) Dirty Linen Night (dirtylinennola.com) takes over Royal Street with galleries between the 200 and 1000 blocks offering cool exhibits and even cooler cocktails and entertainment, from 6 to 10 pm. Both events are free.

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY Home to the

cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. www. jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to

the cutting-edge creations on its walls.

Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured. www. martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASSWORKS AND PRINTMAKING STUDIO This working artists’ stu-

dio features free demonstrations by local master crafters in blown glass, printmaking and fine silver.

Designs made in the studio are on display—and for sale—in the front showroom. How-to classes are also offered. www.neworleansglassworks.com. 727 Magazine St., 504.529.7277. Map 3, C6 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent

exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www.stellajones-

gallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY

The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery.com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Woodrow Nash, Steve Taylor, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com.

241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4

AREA ARTISTS have been gathering around Jackson Square’s iron fence for more than half a century, making the site one of the oldest active art colonies in the U.S. 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

©SHAWN FINK

Central Business/ Warehouse District

THE GUIDE

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 34

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 34 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................37 Collectives.....................................................................................................38 Other Locations.......................................................................................38

CBEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast

majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo.com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4 BRASS MONKEY This tiny storefront offers one

of the largest selections of Limoges boxes in the Quarter, as well as antique walking sticks and other collectible curios. 407 Royal St., 504.561.0688. Map 3, F4 CALLAN FINE ART Specializing in fine European

paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery features museum-quality examples from the academic, Barbizon, impressionistic and post-impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local

and regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here. Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www. claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 CREASON’S FINE ART GALLERY Here, artist-owner

Greg Creason’s vibrant “modern art with a traditional flair” shares wall space with with contemporary works by Darrell George, Tracy Jarmon, Mary Pat Wallen and others. www.creasonsfineart.com.

831 Chartres St., 504.304.4392. Map 3, H4 ELLIOTT GALLERY Fine contemporary and

modern art from world-renowned artists is the standard here. Artists represented include Theo Tobiasse, James Coignard, Max Papart, Nissan Engel, Garrick Yrondi, David Schneuer, Petra Seipel, Picasso, Miró and Chagall. www.elliottgallery.com.

540 Royal St., 504.523.3554. Map 3, G4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. Map 3, F4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive

showroom features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture.

You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com.

409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation,

family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. www.cohenantiques.com. 437 Royal St., 504.524.0802. Map 3, F4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this off-

beat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, woodturnings, pottery, bottle-cap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com.

536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s

established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KEZIC GALLERY Diego Lukezic is triple talented.

Perhaps best known for his popular “Tango Dog” series, the local artist also creates New Orleans architectural images using the pseudonym “Martin Luke” and 4-D florals as “Kezic.” www.kezic.com.

343 Royal St., 504.298.1096. Map 3, F4

KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals in

international oil paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com.

906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MANN GALLERY Specializing in French impres-

sionist and post-impressionist paintings, this gallery features such 19th-, 20th- and 21stcentury artists as Luc Didier, Edmond Petitjean, Jac Martin-Ferrieres and Pierre Gaston Rigaud. www.vincentmanngallery.com. 305 Royal St., 504.523.2342. Map 3, F4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com.

433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques. com. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 PENNINGTON FINE ARTWith no formal training,

Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others at Boston’s Museum of Fine Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. www.penningtonart.com. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4

PHOTO WORKS This gallery showcases the work of

photographer Louis Sahuc, known for his dramatic shots of the city, which have been called “the quintessential images of New Orleans.” Sahuc specializes in black-and-white, but also creates vivid color prints. www.photoworksneworleans.com. 521 St. Ann St., 504.593.9090. Map 3, G5 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art” View of Basin Street (detail); ca. 1908; The Historic New Orleans Collection, gift of Alber t Louis, Lieutaud, 1957.101

ST RY VILLE

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4

MADAMS & MUSIC

RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

An exhibition on view through December 9, 2017 THNOC’s Williams Research Center 410 Chartres Street Tuesday–Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

Admission is free.

The varied attractions of sex, music, and dance emanating from New Orleans’s former red-light district lured visitors from around the country.

Stor yville: Madams and Music traces the rise and fall of the neighborhood that helped shape the notorious reputation that adheres to New Orleans today. www.hnoc.org | (504) 523-4662 |

#madamsandmusic

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 SONIAT ANTIQUES Architectural Digest, Town and

Country and Art & Antiques have all featured this gallery. French painted furniture (18th- and 19thcentury), as well as Italian pieces, can be found in this collection. www.soniatantiques.com. 1130 Chartres St., 504.212.0200. Map 3, I4 TANNER GALLERIES & STUDIO Home to local

artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.”

Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 THE ARTIST’S STUDIO Home to artist Harriette

Prevatte’s detailed depictions of second-line parades and local street musicians. 604 Chartres St., 504.267.1962. Map 3, G4 TRESOR GALLERY Offbeat illustration, macabre

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.tresorgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.309.3991. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for history and Hollywood

buffs, this hip shop is filled with signed collectibles, vintage jewelry and retro bar ware. Marilyn Monroe glamour pics, first-edition novels and assorted music memorabilia are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec. Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection, along with sculpture by Richard McDonald, Martin Eichinger and Paige Bradley. www.windsorfineart. com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

623 royAL street

French quArter

new orLeAns

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 AS YOU LIKE IT SILVER SHOP This shop stocks silver

flatware in hundreds of active and inactive patterns to complete an existing set or begin a new one.

Browse among tea services, goblets and more. www.asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. 3033 Magazine St., 504.897.6915. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 37

THE GUIDE

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

BRITISH ANTIQUES A dash of Old England in the

heart of Uptown New Orleans. This showplace of English, French and Asian antiques also offers sophisticated gift items and accessories for the home. 5415 Magazine St., 504.895.3716. Map 1, D4 CAROL ROBINSON GALLERY Spotlighting local

and national artists such as Jere Allen, Karen Jacobs and Elliot Snellings, this gallery showcases paintings, sculpture and ceramics. www. carolrobinsongallery.com. 840 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.6130. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 FRENCHY GALLERY Art of the moment takes on

new meaning in the hands of Randy Leo Frechette, who captures moments on canvas as they unfold.

From music fests to sporting events to Carnival parades, you’ll find the real-time artist fast at work among the crowds. www.frenchylive.com. 8319 Oak St., 504.861.7595. Map 1, C3 GARDEN DISTRICT GALLERY This gallery, located

near Commander’s Palace restaurant, features rotating exhibits by local, regional and national artists. www.gardendistrictgallery.com. 1332 Washington Ave., 504.891.3032. Map 1, D4 KEVIN STONE ANTIQUES This respected dealer

scours European estate sales for top-quality antiques, with an emphasis on unusual 18thand 19th-century items from France and Italy.

The inventory here runs the gamut from fine furnishings to decorative accessories. www. kevinstoneantiques.com. 3420 Magazine St., 504.891.8282. Map 1, D4 NEW ORLEANS PHOTO ALLIANCE GALLERY This

growing photography collective strives to stimulate “artistic growth while preserving the rich and diverse photographic culture of New Orleans and the southern region” through rotating monthly exhibits. www.neworleansphotoalliance.org. 1111 St. Mary St., 504.513.8030. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle magazine calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Artist Osborne has

garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned

by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. www.galleryosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530.Map 1, D4 THE SPIELMAN COMPANY Photographer David

Spielman is known for his black-and-white takes of famous Southern scribes, and for chronicling the city in the days after Katrina. His works are found at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art...and at his Garden District gallery. www.davidspielman.com.

2727 Prytania St., 504.899.7670. Map 1, D4 THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O This innovative de-

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

designers. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2113. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for

undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works (paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, jewelry, masks) by dozens of regional artists. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 GREAT ARTISTS COLLECTIVE Works by more than

20 local artists, who dabble in everything from glass-blowing and textile-making to photography and jewelry, are showcased at this French Quarter collective. www.greatartistscollective.com. 815 Royal St., 504.525.8190. Map 3, H4 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.523.7945. Map 3, E5

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net.

3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKETThis plein air art market

fills an alley tucked amid Frenchmen Street’s famed music halls. From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps to folk art, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares. Open Th-M, 7 pm-1 am. www.frenchmenartmarket.com. 619 Frenchmen St., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5 JAZZFEST GALLERY Illustrator David Stone Martin

created hundreds of jazz album covers during the 1940s and ’50s. This exclusive dealer of his images offers museum-stock prints produced from vintage-edition plates. www.jazzfestgallery.com.

504.218.0304.

ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8

THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Cooking With Class

Mass Appeal

Bring a taste of New Orleans to your home kitchen by signing up for a Cajun/Creole cooking class. Located in a former molasses warehouse, the New Orleans School of Cooking (p. 40, shown) offers twice-daily how-to courses on gumbo, jambalaya, pralines and other local dishes, which students get to enjoy afterward. Both educational demo and handson classes are offered. The attached “general store” is stocked with products to recreate the recipes learned. Shrimp and grits, etouffée and bananas Foster are on the demo class menu at Crescent City Cooks! (p. 40). Not in the mood to cook? Shop the store, which is filled with great gadgets and gift items.

One of the highlights of Satchmo SummerFest is the jazz Mass at St. Augustine Church (p. 40). But Sunday Mass (10 am) at the nation’s second-oldest African-American Catholic church—with its spirited choir and welcoming congregation—is always a jazzy and joyful experience, no matter the month or your religious leanings.

Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

(LEFT) ©NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM Located in the circa-1860 U.S. Custom

House, this ranks as the nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

space plays host to free fan fests during 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year.

Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. wheretraveler.com $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 www.champions-square.com. 1500 Poydras ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2 St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Opens at CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.audubonlush canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or larger even than New York’s Central Park. www.

800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 the dead” act as windows on the past, offering inCRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the sight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter to of her works there. Many are located in high-crime the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers jogging areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, and biking paths, a dog run and picture-perfect day or night. picnic areas www.crescentparknola.org. Map 3, J6 CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEM ETERYJust down the river from where Andrew

Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears his name is the battlefield where he fought the last battle of the War of 1812. History buffs can check out the visitor center, listen to daily ranger talks, explore Chalmette National Cemetery or relax under the park’s live oaks. https://www.nps.gov/ jela/chalmette-battlefield.htm. 8606 W St Bernard Hwy., 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3 CHAMPIONS SQUAREThis open-air venue, adja-

cent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts 45,000 sq. ft. and state-of-the-art technology. The

ENTERGY GIANT SCREEN THEATER Eye-popping

features are shown on a five-and-a-half-story screen. $11.95 adults, $9.95 seniors, $9.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for schedule and closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org.

Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 ESCAPE MY ROOMThe concept of this live, interac-

tive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an hour and you and your teammates “escape” the mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and fun) than that. A great activity for families and group team-building. Reservations required.

VITASCOPE HALL, the world’s first permanent for-profit movie theater, opened at 623 Canal Street on July 26,1896; the site is now home to a souvenir/liquor store. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 39

THE GUIDE

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 61-63.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................39

Cooking Classes .....................................................................................40 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................40 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 44 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 46 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 48

www.escapemyroom.com. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Pl., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 FULTON ALLEY Putting a fresh spin on the old

bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor (bocce, foosball, etc.), cool craft cocktails and big-flavored small plates. Not a bowler? Not a prob. Both the bar and restaurant are accessible separately from the alley. www.fultonalley.com.

600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569. Map 3, D6 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleansthemed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND PRESERVE On this 23,000-acre area of protected

wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways allow you to explore deep into the swamp. www.nps.gov/jela. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882.

MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.588.7608. Map 3, F4 NOLA MOTORSPORTS PARK Racing fans, start your

engines. This state-of-the-art facility offers car and motorcycle tracks geared for both competitive and recreational use, along with kart rentals and racing. www.nolamotor.com. 11075 Nicolle Blvd., Avondale, 504.302.4875.

OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 THE THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-

of-the-art movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining from its in-house Gusto Café and Bar. www.thetheatres.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cooking Classes CRESCENT CITY COOKS! Learn the secrets

of New Orleans-style cuisine from chefs who conduct two-hour classes daily (10 am), and taste the results afterward during lunch; prices vary.

Hands-on classes are also offered, along with a large selection of spices and culinary utensils.

www.crescentcitycooks.com. 201 Chartres St., 504.529.1600. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5

Cruises & Tours A BICYCLE NAMED DESIRE Located at the address

of Stanley and Stella Kowalski’s fictional residence, this bike shop (an offshoot of Confederacy of Cruisers) provides “rentals for the independent traveler.”

Half, full, multi-day and weekly rates are offered. www.abicyclenameddesire.com. 632 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.345.8966. Map 3, J5 AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CAJUN ENCOUNTERS Daily tours for both large

and small groups are offered, along with hotel pickups and drop-offs. Call for times, prices and reservations. Honey Island Swamp Tour –2 hrs. City Cemeteries Tour –2 hrs. Oak Alley & Laura Plantation Tour –4 hrs. www.cajunencounters.com. 55345 Hwy. 90, Slidell, 504.834.1770. Map 2, G1 CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake

Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with moonlight and twilight outings. Transportation available; prices vary. www.canoeandtrail.com.

504.233.0686.

CELEBRATION DISTILLATION TOURS The mak-

ers of Old New Orleans Rum offer tours of their facility—the oldest premium distillery continually operating in the United States—M-F (noon, 2 and 4 pm) and Sa-Su (2 and 4 pm). Get a taste of the distillation process...and of the company’s awardwinning spirits. Reservations recommended. Grab a cab. $10; 21+ only. www.oldneworleansrum.com.

2815 Frenchmen St., 504.945.9400. Map 1, E2 CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

group city and plantation tours, in addition to private excursions. Hotel pickups available; rates vary. www.celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SEGWAY TOURS Why walk when you can

glide? Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. Private excursions are also available. www.citysegwaytours.com. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter

te r f r e nc h q u a r ghos t tour

F i v e In One Tour

HAUNT ED PUB CR A WL

THE #1 TOUR OUR IN NEW ORLEANS… ORLEANS…A MUST DO! -The Travel Channel

SAVE

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THE GUIDE

and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered, along with customized bike tours. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 CRESCENT CITY BIKE TOURS These three-hour

guided bike rides explore the French Quarter and Tremé neighborhoods, along with Armstrong Park and the Mississippi riverfront. Tours are $49; rentals are $25/day. www.crescentcitybiketours.com. 626 N. Rampart St., 504.322.3455. Map 3, G3 DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280.

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$22. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour

walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10 am and 1:30 pm. $20 adults, $15 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. www.friendsofthecabildo.org. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs.

Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.

Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs.

Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette 42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

Unlock History. hgghh.org | 504.274.0746

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Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 pm and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm and 7:30 pm) from

Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

HONEY ISLAND SWAMP TOURS These profession-

ally narrated, two-hour tours are limited in size, allowing guides to maneuver small boats deep into scenic Honey Island Swamp, where you’ll see everything from live alligators to bald eagles. $23 adults, $15 children. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. Call for tour times and reservations. www.honeyislandswamp.com. 985.641.1769.

KAYAKITIYAT Kayak tours of beautiful Bayou

St. John, which cuts a scenic swatch through the midsection of the city, are offered daily; call for launch times. $40/two hours; $65/four hours. Tours of Bayou Bienvenue are also featured; $70. www. kayakitiyat.com. (Bayou St. John tours launch across from 3494 Esplanade Ave.) 985.778.5034 ; 512.964.9499. Map 1, D2 LAFITTE’S BARATARIA MUSEUM & WETLAND TRACE Charting the 200-year backstory of the

town of Jean Lafitte, this museum explores the fishing village’s history and pirate lore through a variety of multimedia exhibits while also examining the effects of coastal erosion. A nature trail leads

visitors through a mile and a half of cypress swamp. $12 adults, $6 children. www.townofjeanlafitte.com.

4917 City Park Dr., 504.689.7009.

NEW ORLEANS BREWS CRUISE Get a taste of the

local craft-beer scene with a tour of area breweries.

Learn about the brewing process while sampling three to five varieties at each stop. City breweries are spotlighted Fri.-Sat. at 6 pm and Sun. at 2 pm; Northshore brewery tours are also offered.

Great for groups or corporate outings; private and customized excursions are also available. www. neworleansbrewscruise.com. 504.517.4671.

NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and

informed at the same time. Guided jogs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized tours are also available. Groups meet at the corner of Decatur and Barracks streets. www.neworleansjoggingtours.com. Map 3, I5 NOLA GONDOLA A romantic retreat in the heart of

the city. Board the Bella Mae, an authentic Venetian gondola, for a guided glide through City Park’s Big Lake and moss-draped lagoons. Tours are 50 minutes and can accommodate up to six. $90/ couple; $10 per additional passenger. Open daily, 1-8 pm. www.nolagondola.com. Big Lake Trail, City Park, 504.450.4400. Map 1, D2 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors

Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under.

Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR Free

guided daily tours, 9 am-4 pm, except major holidays. www.tabasco.com. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

WHEEL FUN RENTALS This company offers a

variety of ways to explore City Park. Surrey, chopper, cruiser and tandem bikes are among the many cycles available for hourly rentals, in addition to

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10 A.M. UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

kayaks, pedal boats, paddle boards and more.

Open daily at 10 am. www.wheelfunrenatals.com.

Big Lake Trail, City Park, 504.300.1289. Map 1, D2

Museums & Exhibits ABITA MYSTERY HOUSE This one requires a car,

but is well worth the price of a rental for outsider art fans. Housed in a former filling station in nearby Abita Springs, artist John Preble’s eccentric sendup of “redneck culture” features offbeat oddities fashioned from more than 50,000 found objects. $3 (free 3 and under). Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. www. abitamysteryhouse.com. 22275 Hwy. 36, Abita Springs, 985.892.2624. Map 2, F1 BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display.

Admission $10; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. www. backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 BEAUREGARDKEYES HOUSE This beautifully

restored 1826 villa and garden was the home of Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $9 seniors/students, $4 ages 6-12, under 6 free. www.bkhouse.org. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $10; $8 seniors/ students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas lived

during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works. Two-hour tours of the 1852 property, conducted by the artist’s great-grand-niece, are offered daily at 10:15 am and 1:30 pm, and by appointment. $15. Reservations required. www.degashouse.com. 2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, I4 GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish

gowns, costumes, and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 22 Mardi Gras balls. Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours (nightly, 6-10 pm). www. arnauds.com/museum.html. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

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Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LE MUSÉE DE F.P.C. This museum explores

the history, culture and contributions of New Orleans’ free people of color. Spanning three centuries, exhibits include original manumission documents, 19th-century paintings and an 1864 right-to-vote petition. Open W-Su, 1-4 pm, and by appointment. $15 adults, $12 students/groups. www.lemuseedefpc.com. 2236 Esplanade Ave., 504.914.5401. Map 1, D3 LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS Designated

a National Historic Landmark, this 1939 Classical Revival home is modeled after an English country estate, with eight acres of gardens to

explore. Guided tours available daily. $12 adults, $10 seniors/military, $8 students/children, 2 and under free. Open W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm. www.longuevue.com. 7 Bamboo Rd., 504.488.5488. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Children learn

through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans” and “New Orleans: Proud to Call It Home.” Adults/children $8.50. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-5 pm; Su, noon-4:30 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 Julia St., 504.586.0725. Map 3, C6 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo, Map 3, G4)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History. 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St., Map 3, G5)– Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St., Map 3, G5)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave., Map 3, I5)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint.

Presbytère (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–Continuing: Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana and Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond. For

tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

MARDI GRAS MUSEUM OF COSTUMES AND CUL TURE Carl “Mr. Costume” Mack displays his Car-

nival get-ups in this sprawling space connected to his rental shop. Spotlighting the artistry behind the designs, the museum features a “costume closet,” in which visitors can explore their own creativity.

Open daily. $15 adults, $10 LA residents, $5 seniors and ages 16 and under. themardigrasmuseum. com. 1010 Conti St., 504.218.4872.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $26 adults, $22.50 seniors, $16.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries”: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM

Explore this misunderstood religion through the museum’s artifacts and exhibits. Readings are also offered. $7 adults, $5.50 college students/seniors, $3.50 children (free under 5). Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. www.voodoomuseum.com. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4

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NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings.

The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm; free. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org.

514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM The Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-4 pm. www.newcombartgallery. tulane.edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free).

Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic

Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ second mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $7 children, free ages 6 and under. www.louisianalandmarks.org. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2 PRESERVATION RESOURCE CENTER The PRC is

an essential stop for lovers of local architecture, and contains a wealth of information on the city’s buildings and neighborhoods. Open M-F, 9 am-5 pm. www.prcno.org. 923 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.7032. Map 3, B7 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10.50; students/ seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. www.southernfood.org. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3 WILLIAMS RESEARCH CENTER The research arm

of the Historic New Orleans Collection houses a sparkling repository of documents as well as rotating exhibits and a knowledgeable, friendly staff. Free. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. www.hnoc.org. 410 Chartres St., 504.598.7171. Map 3, F4

Cocktails ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop

bar, which offers sweeping views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9pm. www.acehotel.

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com/neworleans/alto. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map3, C5 ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and clas-

sic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. Winner of the 2017 James Beard Award for “Outstanding Bar Program.” www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft

beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. www. theavenuepub.com. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3 BAR TONIQUE This sleek and chic boite brings a

welcome air of sophistication to North Rampart Street. Dark woods and candlelight set the mood for top-shelf cocktails, house-made tonics and an extensive selection of wines by the glass. www.bartonique.com. 820 N. Rampart St., 504.324.6045. Map 3, H3 BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-

school games (Jenga, skeeball, air hockey) are the draw...along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry?

Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. barcadianola.com.

601 Tchoupitoulas St, 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6 BARREL PROOF From Japanese Yamazaki to

Kentucky-aged Old Grand-Dad, the top shelf at this hip Lower Garden District spot holds more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. Candles and string lights illuminate walls of repurposed tin roofing; dig the stuffed bobcat and cow-skin rugs. www.barrelproofnola.com. 1201 Magazine St. 504.299.1888 Map 3, A7 BAYOU BEER GARDEN One of the first bona fide

beer gardens in the city, Bayou offers a huge patio with plenty of seating. The beer list is extensive with more than 100 choices on tap and in the bottle or can. www.bayoubeergarden.com. 326 N. Jefferson Davis Pkwy., 504.302.9357. Map 1, D3 BAYOU WINE GARDENThis casual Mid-City spot

offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. Cheese and charcuterie boards are also available, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. www.bayouwinegarden.com. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3 THE BULLDOG The patio is the way to go at

this British-themed pub, where the fountain is fashioned from dozens of old beer taps. Only fitting given the dog-friendly tavern’s 50-plus draft beers and additional 100 varieties offered by the bottle. www.draftfreak.com. 3236 Magazine St., 504.891.1516. Map 1, D4; 5135 Canal Blvd., 504.488.4191. Map 1, D2 COURTYARD BREWERY Beer lovers will fall for

the small batches with big taste at this Lower Garden District micro-micro brewery. A snack with your brew? Check the rotating schedule of food trucks. www.courtyardbrewing.com. 1020 Erato St. Map 3, A7 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only

brewpub. Microbrews, nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5 CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed

in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is

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also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-plus

bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from caviar and potato chips to grilled octopus. For a unique treat order the Champagne-topped frozen grapefruit. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play

(the author once stayed here), this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1452. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a mas-

sive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www. nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such

bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehouse.com. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 TIKI TOLTECA A bit of the tropics on the edge of

the French Quarter. Totems and coconut heads grace the bar, which serves up mai tais, zombies and flaming Escorpion Punch W-M nights. www. tikitolteca.com. 301 N. Decatur St. (inside Felipe’s), 504.267.4406. Map 3, F5 URBAN SOUTH BREWERY Housed in a 19th-century

warehouse, this modern-minded brewery is out to “re-establish New Orleans as the beer capital of the South.” Its kid-friendly taproom (yes, you read right) features a variety of brews crafted on site.

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www.urbansouthbrewery.com. 1645 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.67.4852. Map 1, E4 WALKON’S Fittingly within walking distance of

the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. Looking for a rowdy atmosphere with selfserve taps in which to watch the game? You’ve found it. www.walk-ons.com. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. Steamy windows face the nightlife bustle of Frenchmen Street, and the benches outside make ideal perches for people-watching. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone,

this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. The recently revamped venue now features live music Tu-Sa. www.hotelmonteleone. com. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4 CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the

Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 504.304.4714. Map 1, D3 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape

inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film

screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown music venue. A rotating cast of food trucks are available and restaurants are within walking distance. www.gasagasa.com. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3 HIHO LOUNGE This legendary dive got a post-

Katrina makeover, complete with an expanded stage and new sound system. But thankfully the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever.

Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque. www.hiholounge.net. 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 HOWLIN’ WOLF This locally owned and operated

club features low cover charges and low attitude.

Acts include both local favorites and big names;

the music ranges from punk to straight-ahead rock. www.thehowlinwolf.com. 907 S. Peters St., 504.522.9653. Map 3, C7 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz

landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene.

The recently renovated supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 ONE EYED JACKS Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-

burlesque: this swanky dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. www.oneeyedjacks. net. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS One of downtown’s

hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. www.republicnola.com. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of

Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYSThis hip venue in the über-hip Ace

Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers two locations

and a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic,

always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of WhereÂŽ in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

THE GUIDE

Navigate Hit the Road

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, complete with a new 35-gate terminal due to open in 2018.

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

©SHAWN FINK

Worlds apart from New Orleans but just a short drive away, Cajun country (p. 51) is almost a state within a state, comprising 22 parishes in the southwest portion of Louisiana.

Take a group of Nova Scotians and Québécois displaced by Canada’s French and Indian War during the 1750s, add a handful of Native American tribes and a sprinkling of German immigrants, and you get the rich cultural mix that is Acadiana. With the bustling city of Lafayette at its center, it’s easy to explore the hundreds of tiny towns that dot the region. From the low rolling hills in the north to the muddy bayous in the south—and all the crawfish, boudin and zydeco between—a visit to Cajun country is well worth a day (or two) trip.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index General Information........................................................................... 50 Nearby Destinations............................................................................51 Cajun Country...........................................................................................51 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 51 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 51 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................51 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................51 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 51 Transportation ....................................................................................... 50

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters and a growing number of popular eateries. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5 CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military

outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residental shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE ARTS DISTRICT This “Southern

SoHo” adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history

and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

LAFOURCHE PARISH Founded in 1807, Lafourche

was one of the Louisiana’s original parishes when it became a state in 1812. Situated along Bayou Lafourche, which extends to the Gulf of Mexico, the area is rich in fish and wildlife, making it an ideal location for early Acadian settlers. The Jean Lafitte National Park Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux, the parish seat, offers insight into Cajun life, while swamp tours provide an upclose look local flora and fauna. Thibodaux is also home to the Laurel Village Sugar Plantation and Museum (the largest surviving 19th–century sugar plantation in the U.S.) and Nicholls State University (aka “Harvard on the Bayou”). www.visitlafourche. com. 985.537.5800.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time, cher. www. houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

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MAGAZINE STREET STRETCHING SIX MILES parallel to the Mississippi River from Canal Street to Audubon Park and the zoo, Magazine Street slices through many different New Orleans neighborhoods. The Central Business District (CBD) and Warehouse Arts District, the Irish Channel, as well as the Lower Garden District, Garden District proper and Uptown—all are inter sected by Magazine. Along the way, you can find some of the city’s best clothing boutiques for children, women and men plus galleries, antique stores, restaurants, cafes, gourmet shops and more.

HISTORIC NEIGHBORHOODS

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Between parts of Magazine Street and St. Charles Avenue lies the Garden District and Uptown neighborhoods, perhaps the grandest of New Orleans’ neighborhoods. The Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne-style homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available.

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Retro Romance Destination weddings take on a whole new meaning along historic River Road, where bridal parties don’t just travel to another time zone, but to an entirely different era.

Most plantations offer wedding packages, from elaborate affairs to simple ceremonies. At Destrehan, for example, vows are exchanged in a rustic 1830s mule barn, while Nottoway (shown), with its exquisite all-white ballroom, full-service salon and on-site honeymoon suite, is more refined.

At Oak Alley couples gather beneath a picturesque canopy of 300-year-old oaks to say their “I dos.” Houmas House, with its 38 acres of lush gardens and varied venues (from the pristine Grand Lawn to the Asianinspired Tea House), can conduct multiple ceremonies at once, helping secure its placement among The Knot’s list of the nation’s best wedding facilities.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $18 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the CIvil War; today only a handful remain.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

©NOTTOWAY PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 58 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 58 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 59 Dining........................................................................................................... 60

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 60 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 5 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 t S Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 in e OV a v RH Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 Sp hA AveOmni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 OC c n i l o kOO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 n R a Fr St PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 6 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 7 Street Direction SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 French Quarter SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 Jazzy Passes WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 1 day - $3 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Sports Fans

LGBTQ Travelers

Haunt Hunters

A nod to the Saints’ Super Bowl XLIV victory, (1) Champions Square swarms with football fans during home games. Beginning three hours prior to kickoff, the massive, multiuse space mounts free concerts. Football, baseball, track: (2) City Park’s Tad Gromley Stadium has been a popular venue for area athletes since the 1930s. Site of U.S. Track and Field Trials for the 1992 Olympics, the WPA-era stadium is also where the Beatles performed on their first U.S. tour in 1964.

Where to celebrate after the game? Even if you’re not a big sports fan, you’re still guaranteed to stumble upon a good time along (3) Bourbon Street. Just remember, it’s not whether you win or lose … but how you handle your Hurricanes.

Though no longer clothing-optional, the pool at the (1) Country Club still corrals a crowd.

Housed in a circa-1884 Italianate cottage, the club is also home to a top-notch restaurant.

Wear your swimsuit to the Saturday drag brunch, and spend the afternoon poolside with a mixed crowd of locals. Did we mention the bottomless mimosas? Take a spin at the revolving (2) Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone, where Truman Capote claimed to have been born and Liberace was the first to tickle the ivories. When the clubs clear out, the party continues at (3) Clover Grill. Open 24/7, the raucous diner is beloved for its acerbic waiters, greasy burgers cooked under hubcaps, all-day breakfasts and late-night floor shows starring Bourbon Street characters.

In “America’s most haunted city,” ghost and cemetery tours aren’t offered just in October but year-round. There are dozens of aboveground “cities of the dead” to explore; if you can visit only one, make it St. Louis No. 1 and make it with the nonprofit tour group (1) Save Our Cemeteries, which helps fund tomb restoration and preservation. Voodoo has had a hold on the Crescent City since the early 1700s and continues to today. Brush up on vodun’s backstory at the (2) New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum. Founded by two warlocks, (3) Hex: Old World Witchery plays host to the annual Hex Fest Aug. 11-13. Stop by, get a real-deal reading and leave a note to a departed loved one on the Witches’ Altar of the Dead.

64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2017

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©SMG NEW ORLEANS; ©SHAWN FINK; ©F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©ROMNEY CARUSO; ©KERRI MCCAFFETY; ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT, ALL IMAGES) ©SHAWN FINK

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS