Where Magazine Rome Nov 2019

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22 SHOPPING

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34 DINING

Whether you want to dine in or take away, Hosteria del Mercato serves up healthy, all-natural dishes in a charming, verdant space that does double duty as a food market.

THE PORTFOLIO IN ROME Where Rome Russian

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2019

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RUSSIAN EDITION

53 ENTERTAINMENT

Рим: погружение в красоту.

World-renowned pianist Martha Argerich will take the stage for two nights to perform Chopin’s Concerto for Piano no. 1with Sir Antonio Pappano and the Santa Cecilia Orchestra.

l�НАСЛЕДИЕ

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Where Rome Russian Rome Edition is the only magazine exclusively designed for high-spending Russian visitors.

It is published in a uniquely compact luxury format and is bi-annual, fully translated, and found in our partner hotels in Rome. ®

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ROME CITY MAP Detailed map of the city printed in English with descriptions of the most ROME important monuments and places of interest.

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Rome City Map

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56 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

10 Hot Dates An at-a-glance guide to November’s most anticipated events, from Rome’s annual jazz festival to avant-guarde exhibits, from free museums to big-ticket concerts and much more.

20 Any Way You Slice It Opt for a casual lunch on the go (without sacrificing taste) with our picks for some of the best sandwiches in the Eternal City.

14 Secrets Behind the Art Discover the hidden messages behind seven of Rome’s most fascinating masterpieces.

www.wheretraveler.com/rome

18 It’s by Design

STAY

Draw design inspiration from the city's prestigious home décor

IN TOUCH Download past and present issues from across the Where Network via Magzter's app.

boutiques, and take home a oneof-a-kind piece for your own casa.

6 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

64 My Rome

20

Travel professional and co-founder of the Italian Travel Awards, Danielle Di Gianvito, talks about what makes Rome unique, her favorite areas to shop, and the places every tourist must see.

Explore the life’s work of 18th-century goldsmith, furniture maker, and bronze founder Luigi Valadier at the Borghese Gallery’s big fall exhibit.

59 ESSENTIALS

Get insight into Rome's top spots to dine, sightsee, and unwind, straight from the mouth of an expert concierge.

MAP

PAGE 62 A map of Central Rome

w w w.wh ere t r ave l e r. com 6

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8 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 2019

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The Best of Shopping A century and a half ago, Italian department store Rinascente first opened its doors, initially in Milan then across Italy, with stores taking up residence in historic palaces in major cities. A second flagship store opened in the heart of Rome this past October, just steps from the Trevi Fountain and Piazza di Spagna. The inauguration of this fashion legend coincided with the milestone of nearly 150 years of activity, and exactly 100 years since the celebrated poet Gabriele D’Annunzio coined the name of the store, which literally means “renascent,” or in the process of being reborn.

This prestigious department store offers a selection of the finest products in fashion, accessories, beauty care, home décor, design, and food, providing a wide choice of 800 upscale brands, all offering the very best of Italian and international production. After a painstaking restoration of the historic building on Via Tritone, an exciting archeological discovery was made: a well-preserved section

of the Aqua Virgo aqueduct inaugurated

by Emperor Augustus in 19 BC, which can be seen in the basement. The department store also incorporates a smaller building— erected in the early 1900s and known as the “Palazzetto”—literally inside of it, an authentic “building within a building” that adds a fascinating element to the store’s architecture.

Another defining architectural element is the cavaedium, an ancient-style central courtyard that brings light and splendor to every floor. The basement is home to the Design Supermarket, offering innovative and trendsetting brands in home décor, proposals for the dining table and kitchen, fabrics, leather goods and luggage, lighting, and technological gadgetry.

This is where you can also admire the ruins of the Aqua Virgo aqueduct in a special exhibition space, allowing you to combine a shopping trip with a cultural outing. The tax-free lounge and customer service desk are also located here.

AQUA VIRGO AQUEDUCT -1 FLOOR - VIA DEL TRITONE, TERRACE WITH PANORAMIC VIEW

Art Takes Life Only in a city like Rome can art and shopping come together in perfect symbiosis, and no where is that more true that at Rinascente. This season, a monumental piece by contemporary artist Xavier Veilhan is on display in the flagship store. The versatile French artist, whose mediums range from sculpture to painting to installation, presents his new work, Mobile (Rome). The installation, displayed in the open central space, is an enormous mobile consisting of spheres and disks of up to four meters in diameter. The work stretches from the first floor all the way to the sixth, and the spheres interact with the elements around them, capturing the flow of air and the movement of people. The work changes position continuously, and it is this uncertainty that generates its beauty and invites us to interact with these incredibly large forms, without feeling overwhelmed by them. They simultaneously embody strength and lightness, just like certain trees of majestic dimension. Thus, Mobile (Rome) fills the store’s atrium with its evanescent presence and is a metaphor of art itself, representing the artistic gesture within the real world.

ROME, THE CAVAEDIUM - MOBILE

ADVERTORIAL

ROME, VIA DEL TRITONE - FACADE

Every floor is a new treasure trove of products to discover, from jewelry, watches, sunglasses, and accessories on the ground floor, to cosmetics, fragrances, and lingerie on the first floor up. Men’s fashion, footwear, accessories, and underwear are located on levels two and three, and women’s fashions, luxury ready-towear, designer shoes, denim, and athletic footwear on four and five.

Last but not least, the 6th and 7th floors host the food hall, restaurants, food market, café, lounge bar, and panoramic terrace. The gourmet food hall, the first of its kind in the Eternal City, is now fimrly established as “the place to be” in Rome, both for tourists and residents, offering vastly different dining options, all with a glorious view over the rooftops of Rome.

Restaurants include the Feudi di San Gregorio winery, Michelin-starred chef Riccardo Di Giacinto’s MadeITerraneo, Temakinho, serving a delightful combination of Brazilian and Japanese cuisines, and ViVi Bistrot, offering dishes made entirely with natural and organic ingredients.

Try the exclusive On Demand Service: a personal shopper who finds your favorite product in store and delivers it directly to your hotel. Now available also on WeChat.

Tel 3440081600. ondemand@rinascente.it Via del Tritone, 61/Via dei Due Macelli, 23.

Tel 06879161. Mon–Sun, 10am–11pm.

Store: Piazza Fiume. Tel 068841231.

Mon–Fri, 9:30am–9pm; Sat, 9:30am– 9:30pm; Sun, 10am–9pm. rinascente.it

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

HOT DATES November With winter looming, the city is heating up with plenty of events in the coming month, including concerts, festivals, and the chance to visit some popular sites for free!

RICKIE LEE JONES

SATURDAY 16 Forty years after releasing her first album, twotime Grammy Award-winning artist Rickie Lee Jones is performing at the Auditorium Parco della Musica one night only this month. The singer-songwriter has been known throughout her career as one of the first artists to blend pop, rock, and jazz, making a style that is completely her own. Her show comes only a few months after her 17th album, Kicks, was released this past June. auditorium.com

10 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

ROMA JAZZ FESTIVAL FROM FRIDAY 1

The first week of November brings the 43rd annual Roma Jazz Festival with this year’s theme of “No Borders,” since, as the festival states, “boundaries are made to be crossed.” The month-long celebration brings an eclectic variety of artists to the Eternal City such as Dave Holland, Cory Wong, Radiodervish, Dianne Reeves, and Moonlight Benjamin (pictured).

The 21 performances are held across the city at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, the Casa del Jazz, the Monk, and the Alcazar.

Find tickets and a full program at romajazzfest.it.

FREE ENTRY TO NATIONAL MUSEUMS

SUNDAY 3 The first Sunday of every month sees state-run museums all over the country open their doors for free. The National Roman Museum includes the Baths of Diocletian, Palazzo Altemps, Palazzo Massimo, and Crypta Balbi, and is just one of many sites that welcomes tourists gratis on this day. Others include the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, and the National Gallery of Modern Art. Galleria Borghese also takes part, but you must book a time-slot online to ensure entry. Whichever place you pick, get there early to beat the lines!

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m 11

November

GIO PONTI

WEDNESDAY 27 A new exhibit at the MAXXI (Museum of 21st-century Art) explores the career of Gio Ponti.

As one of the most important Italian architects and designers of the 20th century, Ponti has been the subject of much critical literature about his work, ranging from architecture and design to poetry. This exhibition is produced in collaboration with the Gio Ponti Archives and presents materials, models, books, and more from the iconic artist’s large body of work throughout his lifetime. maxxi.art

THANKSGIVING

THURSDAY 28 If you find yourself in Rome this Thanksgiving and want a traditional American dinner, have no fear! Multiple restaurants offer Turkey Day eats, whether it be traditional or with a Roman twist. The Hard Rock Café and Vivi Bistrot are just two of the restaurants where you can find a Thanksgiving feast. For a social event, consider the American International Club, or for something informal, stop in at The Highlander pub for a meal and some American football. St. Patrick's Church also holds a special Thanksgiving Day Mass. If you feel up for the challenge to cook (and you have access to a kitchen), head to international food shop Castroni to find all the ingredients you need. Just make sure to order your bird at the butchershop at least a week in advance.

TUESDAY 12 Singer-songwriter and actor Glen Hansard is set to perform at the Auditorium PDM this month. Hansard started his musical career with The Frames, a local Dublin band, and gained international attention in 2007 when his song “Falling Slowly” won the Oscar for Best Original Song for the film Once, in which he also starred.

Over the past two decades, Hansard has pursued a career as a solo artist while still performing with The Frames. His show at the PDM includes music from his latest solo album This Wild Willing, which was released in April this year.

12 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 2019

© STEPHAN VANFLETEREN

GLEN HANSARD

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

HOT DATES

Attend the Pope’s Angelus speech in St. Peter’s Square for All Saints' Day. Brighten your day at Gyula Várnai’s light installation at Sala S. Rita (Via Montanara).

Don’t miss the last day of the Bulgari exhibition at Castel Sant’Angelo.

The Roman Forum is free today! Get there early to avoid the lines.

Stop at Freni e Frizioni for aperitivo: a drink and a free buffet.

Take a journey to ancient Pompeii and Santorini at the Scuderie del Quirinale’s new exhibit.

Enjoy a healthy meal of seasonal, hand-picked ingredients at Hostaria del Mercato (p34).

Explore Rome’s most fascinating site after dark with a night tour of the Colosseum.

Take the kids to see De Stilte Dance Co. perform Alice in Wonderland at the Mattatoio.

Catch a game of calcio (soccer) when Lazio plays Lecce (Stadio Olimpico).

Be soothed by the jazz stylings of Archie Shepp at the Roma Jazz Fest.

Watch pianist Claire Huangci interpret Brahms and Rachmaninoff at the PDM. The Borghese Gallery showcases the works of neoclassical artist Luigi Valadier.

Catch Mozart’s opera Idomeneo, King of Crete at Teatro Costanzi.

See the Ara Pacis as it once was during one of their Virtual Reality night visits.

Find out where you can try Rome’s most gourmet sandwiches (p20).

Last week to take in a performance of the Romaeuropa Festival.

Genesis tribute band The Musical Box performs at Teatro Brancaccio.

Eleonora Princess of Magic performs her new show Amazing at Teatro Brancaccio.

Rainy day? Head to Palazzo Barberini, one of Rome’s many overlooked museums.

Warm up as the weather gets colder with a pot of tea at Babingtons.

Celebrate the feast of St. Cecilia at the medieval church devoted to her in Trastevere.

Craving Christmas? Visit the National Panettone & Pandoro Festival at the Sheraton.

Want to get active? Run the Deejay Ten Race at Circus Maximus!

Explore the works of Francis Bacon and Lucian Freud at the Chiostro del Bramante.

Make sure to order truffles—they are in season right now!

Architect and writer Gio Ponti’s lifetime of work goes on display at the MAXXI today.

Discover secret meanings and hidden messages begind Rome's greatest masterpieces (p14).

It's Black Friday! Head to the shops to score some deep savings!

Get into the holiday spirit as some Christmas markets begin to open!

For more ideas visit whererome.com

A large, unique shop offering a wide selection of Murano Glass novelties and handmade Murano Jewelry Via Principe Amedeo 7 | Tel 064870875 (Between

Piazza della Repubblica and

Termini Station)

MONDAY SUNDAY 9.30 A.M. 10-30 P.M.

WHERE NOW | ART

Secrets Behind the Art

By Tiffany Parks

O

n a typical visit to Rome, the average tourist sees dozens if not hundreds of works of art. But beyond the subject matter, the genius of the artist, the colors and techniques used, and the sheer beauty of Rome’s countless masterpieces, have you ever wondered: is there something behind the art? In truth, there are several works of art in Rome that hide secrets within their strokes. Some are cryptic messages, some are religious commentary, and some are simply obscure symbolism that only the artist can decode. Read on for seven of the most fascinating, and then go see them with newly opened eyes.

Much of Rome’s art that holds secret meanings can be found inside the Vatican Museums, which is no surprise considering the mysterious nature of the place. Perhaps the most famous is the Vatican’s number-one sight, The Creation of Adam, the centerpiece of the Sistine Chapel ceiling. Surrounding God are a dozen or so figures, including the as-yet-uncreated Eve, and around them all billows a large purple mantle. The shape of this fabric is an unmistakable cross-section of the human brain, down to the position of certain

14 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 2019

figures that make clear outlines of specific parts of the organ. Michelangelo was known to have dissected human corpses in secret, although this was strictly forbidden by the church at the time.

In the same chapel there is a much smaller and more obscure message that Michelangelo included in his masterpiece.

The detail can be found on the spandrel that features the Cumean Sibyl. Contrasting with the other sibyls, who are all young and some strikingly beautiful, the Cumean Sibyl is a hag with a lined face and a manly body. This choice might have been a deliberate slight to Pope Julius II, the pontiff who commissioned the chapel ceiling and was the bane of Michelangelo’s existence. Julius II claimed that when the Cumean Sibyl had prophesized the coming of a savior, she was talking about the pope himself—not Christ. Michelangelo added insult to injury with a rude gesture from the nude figure depicted beside her. His thumb is placed between his first and second fingers, a gesture that was called “giving the fig,” the equivalent of the middle finger today in terms of disrespect and vulgarity.

w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 15

WHERE NOW | ART Just a few rooms away in the dark and secretive Borgia Apartment, we find another mysterious appearance. The work in question is Pinturicchio’s The Risen Christ, a fresco completed in 1494, shortly after the discovery of the Americas. It’s a detail so tiny, you’d never see it if you didn’t know to look—in fact, it was only discovered after heavy restorations. In the background behind the sarcophagus, just to the left of the portrait of Juan Borgia, stands a group of what appear to be Native Americans, replete with feathered headdresses and mohawks. If confirmed by art historians, the work would be the first European painting to depict Native Americans.

Renaissance superstar Raphael frescoed the residence of Pope Julius II—the rooms directly above the Borgia Apartment—a decade later, including the imposing School of Athens, in which Raphael depicts some of the greatest thinkers of ancient times, from Plato and Socrates to Euclid and Pythagoras. In addition, Raphael honored some of the most brilliant artists of his day, placing their features within the portraits of the ancients. Plato bears Leonardo’s face, Euclid appears as the architect Donato Bramante, and most famously, Michelangelo’s face was

depicted in the guise of the cynic Heraclitus. Although it was a great compliment for Raphael to include Michelangelo in the work (particularly since they were by no means friendly), the former did get in an innocent jab at his rival: although every other figure appears barefoot or in sandals, Michelangelo is depicted wearing his worn-out boots, the very ones he infamously never took off, not even to sleep.

Raphael was not the only artist to seek to insult one of his creative rivals within a work of art. Much more damning than Michelangelo’s boots was the portrait of Caravaggio in Giovanni Baglioni’s Sacred and Profane Love, now located at Palazzo Barberini. Baglioni was a mediocre artist who nevertheless enjoyed great popularity and patronage from the church during his lifetime. Although he was derisive of Caravaggio’s work, he copied the chiaroscuro master’s style, a fact that Caravaggio highly resented. When Caravaggio publicly insulted Baglioni’s Sacred and Profane Love, Baglioni created a new version of the work: a chaste and armored Sacred Love interrupts a tryst between Profane Love and the devil himself who has the features of Caravaggio, a not-so-subtle rebuke of the latter’s morals.

Another mystery can be found in one of the Vatican’s greatest treasures, Michelangelo’s Pietà. Many hypothesize that the handsome, mustached face and limp, lifeless body of Christ were modeled on the corpse of Juan Borgia, the son of the Pope at the time. Juan was murdered in 1497 (a crime still unsolved to this day), and his stabbed body was dragged from the Tiber less than a year before Michelangelo started working on this masterpiece. In addition, a detail invisible to a visitor (the sculpture sits behind glass) is the fact that Christ has an extra incisor, in essence, a third front tooth.

Incisors represent sin, and so it could follow that Michelangelo added the tooth to illustrate Christ taking on the sins of the world.

Caravaggio (whose given name was Michelangelo) honored his namesake in his Entombment of Christ, which now hangs in the Pinacoteca of the Vatican Museums. The figure of Nicodemus, who holds the legs of Christ, bears a face identical to portraits of a middle-aged Michelangelo, complete with his high, wide forehead, full beard, and a broken nose. In addition, the stark white arm of Christ that hangs down to touch the tomb is identical to Michelangelo’s marble version in the Pietà, carved over a century earlier.

Pictured, page 14: Top: detail of Michelangelo’s Pietà; detail of Pinturicchio’s The Risen Christ.

Page 15: Detail of Michelangelo’s Cumean Sibyl and Two Ignudi, Sistine Chapel.

This page: Clockwise from left: Caravaggio’s Entombment of Christ; detail from Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel; Sacred and Profane Love by Giovanni Baglioni; detail of Raphael’s School of Athens.

16 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 2019

WHERE NOW | DESIGN

It’s by

Design Everyone knows Milan is the undisputed capital of fashion and all things trendy and new. But Rome, a city that has often been accused of being stuck in the past, holds her own on the design stage. In fact, the Eternal City boasts a number of boutiques of refined contemporary taste where you can shop for original design pieces. Here are a few of our favorite spots to purchase furniture and accessories fit for a modern and unique home.

By Federico Schiaffino

Pictured: clockwise from left: Dispensabile; Ripetta Design; Mia; Arcon; Boschettotre.

18 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 2019

Just steps from Piazza del Popolo, Mia Home Design Gallery is a constantly evolving showroom of expertly blended contemporary and retro furnishings, one-of-a-kind design objects, and limited editions by established designers as well as emerging talents. Mia sees the home as an original and highly personal space, the expression of the owner’s personality and not necessarily the fashions and trends of the moment. VIA DI RIPETTA, 224. GALLERIAMIA.IT In the same neighborhood, not far from the Ara Pacis, Ripetta Design is an elegant gallery of fabrics and accessories in Art Deco and contemporary styles. Rich velvets, silks, embroidered satins, cottons, and linens by the most luxurious names, alongside the finest wallpaper brands—from classic to the most eccentric—and exclusive design objects make this atelier a must-visit for anyone looking to reinvent their space.

VIA DI RIPETTA, 152. RIPETTADESIGN.COM Not far away is Arcon, one of the most interesting shops in the Italian interior design sector. The hyper-specialized staff furnishes the most beautiful houses in Rome with exclusive collections by important national brands such

as Cassina, Fontana Arte, Foscarini, Tonelli, and Flexform. Their two showrooms (the other is located near the Spanish Steps) enchant lovers of beauty with the greatest expressions of “Made in Italy” and international design.

VIA DELLA SCROFA, 104. ARCONROMA.COM Located near Piazza Venezia, Dispensabile is a studio-showroom featuring pieces with a distinctly Nordic flair in a refined and elegant space. Visit the shop to immerse yourself in their furnishings, home accessories, lighting fixtures, and design objects, but also to envision, with the help of the experts on staff, your ideal interior design concept. Brands like Hay, Alessi, Ferm Living, and Louis Poulsen are represented. VIA D ARA COELI, 37/39. DISPENSABILE.IT Wedged between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, you can find Emporio. The eight separate rooms, each numbered in their signature red, comprise a vast showcase of international design, meticulously researched and curated

by Emanuela Onori. Evoking the flavor of an industrial loft, the space contains design pieces and accessories of significant import by leading Scandinavian, French, and, of course, Italian brands, such as Gervasoni and Paola

Want to think bigger? If you’re not satisfied

kable contemporary Italian style.

picking up accessories and design objects,

Make a bee-line for Mobilnovo, Rome’s

consider having an entire room (or indeed

premier furniture and design showroom.

your entire home) redecorated in unmista-

Via Anastasio II, 103. mobilnovo.it

Lenti.

Emporio’s strong point is its informality, as well as its attractive prices, which make it accessible to virtually any budget.

VIA MONTERONE, 2A. TEL 0694264010.

Last but not least, Boschettotre is a concept store in the heart of the Monti district, the brainchild of Oriana Tombolesi, a long-time interior designer who wanted to create a space that reflected her taste and unique vision. The selection includes design furniture from Northern Europe and the Mediterranean, as well as essential accessories like carpets, containers, shelving systems, and lanterns. The boutique also sells a number of pieces designed and handcrafted in its own workshop.

VIA DEL BOSCHETTO, 3.

TEL 0648906922.

w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 19

WHERE NOW | FOOD

Any Way You Slice It

Indulge in the best sandwiches the Eternal City has to offer. Kylee Reader digs in.

The hassle of choosing what to eat for lunch can sometimes be overwhelming, especially when you’re in a new city.

For a more informal yet still tasty affair, you can’t go wrong with a quality sandwich! Read on for our top picks. l�Looking for something easy and on-the-go, but don’t want to skimp on quality? Say no more. Trapizzino (pictured bottom right) offers options that can satisfy diverse palates. The sandwiches come in a triangular shape, similar to that of the famous Italian tramezzino, but are so much better. Instead of bread, it’s a pocket of pizza dough, baked fresh to perfection.

The warm flaky wedge becomes a delicate holding-place for all of the delicious ingredients stuffed inside, which include meatballs with tomato sauce, chicken cacciatore, and many more.

Dine in or take away. Via Giovanni Branca, 88. l�If you have a love for traditional Roman sandwiches, and an even bigger appetite, Duecentogradi (bottom left) is your go-to spot.

The bright, modern shop offers specialty sandwiches, each one unique in their concoction of fresh ingredients, and named after a different Roman piazza. The panini are made with traditional Roman focaccia bread, baked at precisely 200 degrees—hence the shop’s name. If you’re looking for a more personalized sandwich, you can pick and choose from the ingredients offered to create the panino of your dreams.

Piazza del Risorgimento, 3. l�After taking inspiration from an Italian native 20 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 2019

who whips up panini in Manhattan, friends Emiliano and Valerio sought to replicate the same dedication to the art of sandwich-making, right here in Rome. So they created La Sandwicheria (top), offering an extensive menu of sandwiches that can satisfy meat-lovers, fish fanatics, and vegetarians alike, all made with fresh, quality ingredients. And its reasonable prices make it a rare find in the Spanish Steps neighborhood.

Largo del Nazareno, 16/17. l�Who said eating a sandwich couldn’t be a luxurious affair? At Panino Divino, just a few blocks from the Vatican, the creations are downright gourmet. The evolving menu changes with the seasons, and each panino is made with quality local ingredients based on what is found in the market that day. Not a fan of meat? No need to fret, the menu also includes a wide assortment of vegetarian options that are just as tasty. To take your evening up a notch, order a chopping board of their signature meats and cheeses—ideal when paired with a glass of wine from their extensive list.

Via dei Gracchi, 11a. l�Hidden in the maze of streets near Piazza Navona is a tiny shop with sandwiches inspired by Italy’s neighbors to the northwest.

Baguetteria del Fico serves delectable sandwiches on freshly baked baguette bread, with a wide selection of cured meats, sauces, vegetables, and other tempting toppings, at decidedly non-Parisian prices. Scrumptious snacks such as charcuterie boards, seasonal fruit, and homemade desserts are also offered.

They carry a large selection of homemade beers, cocktails, and wines, by the glass or bottle too. Via della Fossa, 12. l�Located near the Colosseum, Pane e Vino is the ideal spot for when you need a break from seemingly endless sightseeing and a good, quality sandwich to power you up for more. The simple menu includes panini in two different sizes to suit average as well as extra-large appetites, and ingredients to create delectable veg and non-veg versions. Via Ostilia, 10. l�A favorite among tourists and locals alike, Pane e Salame offers fresh panini loaded with flavor at a price that won’t make your wallet cry.

Unlike a typical sandwich, these delights are assembled and baked as a single unit, with a mix of cheeses, meats, and veggies lovingly inserted between perfectly crisped bread, all melting together to create a sandwich like no other.

Via Santa Maria in Via, 19.

Traditional Japanese Restaurant & Wagyu Steakhouse

Japanese Restaurant Taki represents respect for traditions and ancient flavors. It is the embodiment of elegance and atmosphere, a refined experience capable of taking the heart and mind on an enchanting journey through time to a fascinating, far-off place that has never been so near.

In the heart of Rome’s historic center, we offer high-quality dishes every day, accompanied by an ample and well-curated selection of wines and sparkling wines. Taki is also Italy’s first Japanese Steakhouse of Hida Wagyu, the finest beef in the world and a sensory explosion of unmistakable taste.

Via Marianna Dionigi, 56/60 corner Piazza Cavour - Tel. 063201750 www.taki.it

SHOPPING

Shopping Sensation in the Heart of Rome Stock up on extra sweaters and boots, grab lunch, or test some new makeup, all in one convenient location. Sabina Accetta has the details.

In the center of Rome and looking for a place to do some onestop shopping? On a quest for a new coat or a pair of shoes, and want to get a blowout while you’re at it? You can do all of this and more at Centro Commerciale Aura, located an easy walk of about a quarter mile from the Vatican walls.

This brand-new shopping center was built as part of a large industrial plan to develop the area around the Fornace Veschi archaeological site, an ancient brick-making factory. Modeled after historic galleries from the 19th century, like the Vittorio Emmanuele in Milan, Aura was designed as a place for much more than shopping. It’s a multi-purpose center that houses 60 shops, a gym, a bookstore, multiple restaurants and bars, and even a hair salon and a dentist’s office. The top floor is a terrace where all the restaurants are located, and it provides a wonderful view of Rome.

22 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

Choose from a variety of dining options including American fast food, Mexican-inspired eats, or traditional Italian fare.

Aura is home to well-known Italian and international clothing brands such as H&M, Timberland, Intimissimi, and Calzedonia, as well as more niche shops like Red Enrich, Newfoundland, and AW Lab. If you’re looking for a new lipstick, there are plenty of cosmetics stores to browse, such as Wycon and Yves Rocher. You can find everything you need from electronics to craft items to home accessories from stores such as Euronics, Flying Tiger, and Thun, respectively. Sometimes your shopping needs can only be met by a full-service mall, and Aura is proudly the only one in the city center.

Located at the Valle Aurelia stop on the Metro A line. > Viale di Valle Aurelia, 30. Tel 0639751750. centrocommercialeaura.it

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

KLK (Pantheon)

Le Artigiane (Pantheon) A club of all-women entrepreneurs whose handmade work is available for purchase at this loft-like boutique and exposition space. Browse for clothes, jewelry, or design objects, while supporting local, women-run businesses. Via di Torre Argentina, 72. Tel 0668309347. Map D3 leartigiane.it

Silk, linen, and cotton scarves in bold colors and styles, silver jewelry at affordable prices, and stylish leather bags in a welcoming shop. All products made in Italy. Open daily, 10am–8pm.

Via della Minerva, 6. Tel 066991721. Piazza Sant’Andrea della Valle, 4. Tel 0668802918. All credit cards accepted except Diner’s. Map D3

LesLey (Veneto)

Rome’s only boutique specializing in sustainable goods and cruelty-free apparel. Sells a range of hand-stitched shoes, accessories, outerwear, and other clothing for both men and women.

Brands include Noah Vegan, Quagga, and Fera Libens, all of which are eco-friendly and certified animal-free. Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm.

Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, 4. Tel 3339517931.

Map D6

Designer bags and accessories from recent collections (worn in fashion shows and TV programs) at excellent prices. Chanel, Dior, Fendi, Balenciaga, Lanvin, YSL, Valentino, Versace, Stella McCartney, Jimmy Choo, and more. Open Mon–Fri, 10:30am–7pm. Via Lombardia, 38c. Tel 0642020265. Map F2 Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm. Via Vittoria, 27 (Spanish Steps). Tel 066793646. Map D/E2 Milan store: Via San Nicolao, 3a (corner Corso Magenta).

Metro: Cadorna. Tel 0236527599. Credit cards accepted. lesleyshop.it

Gaja Banchelli (Campo Marzio)

Pas Vu’ (Navona)

Fu(r)ture (Testaccio)

Handmade artisanal bags and purses crafted in python and other precious materials, each embellished with jeweled buckle that can be interchanged or worn on a belt. Innovative styles that nevertheless respect the time-honored traditions of Italian craftsmanship. Open Mon– Sat, 10am–7:30pm. Vicolo della Torretta, 6. Tel 0668308679. All credit cards accepted. Map D3 gajabanchelli.com

Intimate atelier and boutique selling leather bags, accessories, and handmade jewelry. The creations feature contemporary design and are made with only the finest Italian leather.

Collection includes shoppers, totes, hobos, and purses in tumbled, metallized, crinkled leather. Open Tue–Sun, 11am–7:30pm. Via del Pellegrino, 132. Tel 0668802840. Credit cards accepted. Map C3/4 pasvuhandbags.com IG: pasvu_bags

This directory is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of WHERE magazine and includes regular advertisers.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map A1; Map B5; etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map on pages 62-63.

STORE HOURS, ETC. In general, stores in the historic center are open Monday through Saturday from 9:30/10am to 8pm, and Sunday afternoon, with a lot of flexibility. Less central neighborhoods take a lunch break, roughly from 1–4pm. It’s a good idea to call ahead before any visit. Most establishments welcome major credit cards.

See listings for details.

UnionPay Service Hotline: 0080080095516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By December 2018, more than 650,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 30,000 merchants are located in Rome. This allows hundreds of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as Rinascente department stores, Mc Arthur Glen Designer Outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to provide special discounts or services for UnionPay cardholders.

PRICE ABBREVIATIONS: Average price per person for dinner excluding beverages: €: under €25 • €€: €25–40 • €€€: €40–80 • €€€€: €80 & up

Via di Campo Marzio 13 - Tel +39 06 6833668 monocle.it JACQUES MARIE MAGE - KUBORAUM - AHLEM - THOM BROWNE - 8000 EYEWEAR - DITA - LINDA FARROW MYKITA - MATSUDA -CLAUSTRUM - MEO FUSCIUNI PARFUM

HANDMADE EYEWEAR & ACCESSORIES www.wheretraveler.com 23

SHOPPING Revolution Vintage (Pantheon)

Did you BEAUTY – SALONS know?

A cozy boutique in the historic H&B (Prati & Vatican) center selling luxury secondhand Hair, nail, face, and body services using handbags and accessories at For vintage Aveda products in a modern salon. affordable prices. The boutique shopping, hit up Via Ayurvedic massage, hair analysis, carries a wide selection of del Governo Vecchio and holistic facials. Aveda products products from the world’s most on sale. Open Mon–Sat, 9am–7pm. and Via Urbana. prestigious brands, including Piazza della Rovere, 112/113/114. Tel Chanel, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, 0668307889. Map B/C3 hairbeautyrome.com; Gucci, Fendi, Givenchy, Dolce & bioeprofumeriaonline.it. Also: Via Teatro Valle, 50.

Gabbana, Stella McCartney, Prada, Miu Tel 066892893. Map D3 hairbeautyvalle.com Miu, and more. New and rare arrivals are added every day. Open daily, 10:30am–1:30pm and 4:30– Max & Jo’ (Spagna) 7:30pm. Via della Scrofa, 69. Tel 06164162880.

This old-fashioned barbershop offers classic Italian Map D3 men’s cuts, trendy cuts, North American cuts,

shampoo, shave with application of a warm cloth before and after, pre-shave treatments with various types of essential oils, beard styling, and children’s cuts. Shop also houses museum dedicated to 300 years of barbershop history. Open Tue–Sat, 9am–7pm. Via Mario de’ Fiori, 114. Tel 066786126.

Map E2/3 Via dei Cartari, 10. Tel 0668136095.

Map C3 All credit cards accepted except AmEx. maxjobarbershop.it

Trotta Hair Salon (Navona) Since the 1960s, this top hair salon and chignon bar, with two locations in the city center, specializes in top quality and ultra-light customizable wigs and hair extensions. Wella-certified professional hairstylists offer the latest styling and coloring techniques. Open Tue–Sat, 9am–7pm. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 131. Tel 0668801682. Also: Via Nazionale, 249. Tel 064882885. Major credit cards accepted. Map D3 trottawigs.com

BEAUTY – SPAS, WELLNESS, MASSAGE Argiletum Spa (Monti) Luxurious wellness center that offers massage packages, facials, and entrance to its spa, which includes a hydromassage, sauna, and Turkish bath.

Massage options range from sports, anti-cellulite, or Shiatsu to foot reflexology. Offers free herbal tea with every massage and aperitivo for an extra cost. For a meal before or after treatment, visit the the attached restaurant, Humus Bistrot. Open daily, 9am–9pm. Via della Madonna dei Monti, 109. Tel 0688805491. Cel 3488077168. Map F4 casaargileto.it

Dok Fay (Campo de’ Fiori) Authentic Thai massage center offering numerous types of treatments, including traditional Thai massage, Thai massage with oil, relaxing massage with hot oil, plantar massage, and four-hand massage with oil. Open daily, 10am–9pm. Via dei Cappellari, 125. Tel 0668300588. All credit cards accepted. Map D3

RYoga (Barberini) State-of-the-art and environmentally conscious yoga studio offering over 50 lessons per week in 20 different traditions including Ashtanga, Warm Yin, Hot Yoga, Hatha, Restorative, Kundalini, Iyengar, Vinyasa, prenatal, and more, plus Pilates and core classes. Tranquil lounging areas, tearoom, and Ayurvedic counseling available. Via Servio Tullio, 20/22. Tel 0642020900. Via dei Fienaroli, 27/28. Tel 0658334581. Map F/G2 ryoga.com

CLOTHING Banchetti Sport (Campo Marzio) A historic family-owned sportswear store that has been in business since 1918. Find winter and summer apparel and accessories from the store’s own brand along with well-known designers such as Canada Goose, Woolrich, Colmar, Save the Duck, and more. Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am– 7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7pm. Closed Mon morning.

Via Campo Marzio, 38. Tel 066871420. All credit cards accepted. Map D2/3 banchettisport.net

Le Artigiane (Pantheon) A club of all-women entrepreneurs whose handmade work is available for purchase at this loft-like boutique and exposition space. Browse for clothes, 24 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

Ceiling lights, lamps and Venetian masks

Vases, sCUlptURes, neCklaCes, BRaCelets, peaRls, all COmpletelY hand-made

SHOPPING jewelry, or design objects, while supporting local, women-run businesses. Via di Torre Argentina, 72.

Tel 0668309347. Map D3 leartigiane.it

Lungaretta 121 (Trastevere) Chic boutique whose racks include stylish garments from London, Paris, and Rome. A wide range of shoes produced in the artisanal tradition are also available. Open Mon–Thurs, 10am–8pm; Fri–Sat, 10am–12am; Sun, 11am–8pm. Via della Lungaretta, 121/123. Tel 065898876. Map D5 lungaretta121.com

Rinascente (Tritone/Salaria) Large, up-scale department store stocking an ample selection of men’s, women’s, and children’s fashions. Wide array of cosmetics, accessories, and housewares. Tax refunds available. Flagship store: Open Mon–Sun, 10am–10pm. Via del Tritone, 61/ Via dei Due Macelli, 23. Map E2 Store: Store: Open Mon–Fri, 9:30am–9pm; Sat, 9:30am–9:30pm; Sun, 10am–9pm. Piazza Fiume. Tel 068841231. Map G1 Credit cards accepted. rinascente.it

Silly Closet Room (Navona) Small Parisienne-style boutique selling garments, accessories, and jewelry by all-Italian brands.

Opened and run by two young friends who are passionate about bringing independent Italian designers to the shoppers of Rome. All credit cards accepted. Open Mon, 3:30–7:30pm; Tue– Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm. Via della Scrofa, 111. Tel 0694414358. Instagram @sillyclosetroom Map D3

CONCEPT STORES Chez Dédé (Campo de’ Fiori) Everyday accessories are made luxurious at this chic, French-Italian boutique. Shop exclusive scarves, bags, toiletry kits, candles, perfumes,

Leather the Storm

For five generations, the historic Carucci shop has been crafting shoes and leather goods for Rome’s most stylish citizens. It was born in 1902 as a workshop manufacturing handmade trunks, umbrellas, and suitcases, but over the years the store has transitioned to women’s footwear and handbags, all proudly bearing the Made in Italy label. Elegance and convenience define Carucci’s distinctive feminine ideal, with a constant exploration into the highest quality materials, all with the goal of creating a unique and classy style. Their exclusive collection also includes scarves and gloves. Open Mon 3:30pm–7pm, Tue–Sun, 9:30am–7pm. >Via di Ripetta, 68. Tel 063227209. carucci1902.com

Wonder Watch If you want to wear a true time-telling legend around your wrist, there’s no other watch for you than a Patek Philippe. The 175-yearold Swiss watchmaker is opening its first mono-brand boutique in the Eternal City this fall, in collaboration with Hausmann & Co., Rome’s most historic jewelry store, founded in 1794. Holding the distinction of the inventor of the wristwatch (created for a Hungarian Countess in 1868), as well as the creation of the keyless winding system, perhaps no other watchmaker in the world can claim a more storied past. Patek Philippe has been appreciated by the echelons of society since its very inception, even Queen Victoria had two of their timepieces as early as 1851. The list of celebrities who have owned their creations is astounding, and includes Clark Gable, Duke Ellington, Charlotte Bronte, Pablo Picasso, Elizabeth Taylor, Andy Warhol, Tchaikovsky, Walt Disney, J. P. Morgan, Marie Curie, Albert Einstein, and Leo Tolstoy, as well as numerous heads of state and members of royalty. Today, the watches come in a plethora of styles, materials, and functions, each one crafted with the same precision and excellence that has always characterized the Patek Philippe name. >Via Condotti, 28. Tel 066784005. hausmann-co.com stationery, T-shirts, and more, assisted by the kind and attentive staff. Open Mon, 12noon–7:30pm; Tues–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm. Closed Sundays. Via di Monserrato, 35. Tel 0683772934. All credit cards accepted except Diners. Map C3 chezdede.com

EYEWEAR Monocle (Pantheon) Original and sophisticated eyewear by Thom Browne, Kuboraum, Mykita, Ahlem, Linda Farrow, Matsuda, Dita Eyewear, 8000 Eyewear, Rick Owens, Meo Fusciuni Parfum, Jacques Marie Mage. Via di Campo Marzio, 13. Tel 066833668. Map D3 monocle.it

Ottica Efrati (Spagna) Luxurious Italian and international designer eyewear: Armani, Prada, Gucci, Chanel, Cartier, Bulgari, Alain Mikli, Dior, Thom Browne, Michael Kors, Oliver Peoples, Dita, Dita von Teese, Miu Miu, Gentle Monster, Thierry Lasry, Ic! Berlin, Chopard, and Tom Ford. WHERE readers: 10% discount. Piazza di Spagna, 91. Tel 066795361.

Via del Corso, 161. Tel 066792263. Via Frattina, 63. Tel 066781461. Credit cards accepted. Map D/E2 David Marc Store: Via del Corso, 62. Tel 063235102. Map E2/3

FABRICS Casa del Tessuto (Esquilino) Designer fabrics, cashmere, men’s fabrics (Ermenegildo Zegna), fabrics for wedding dresses, pure Italian silks, drapery fabrics, household linens, direct import of English fabric “Liberty”. Итальянские ткани. Dolce e Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli, Etro, Giorgio Armani, Prada, and Gucci. Via dello Statuto, 64/66. Tel 064872813. Tax-free services. Credit cards accepted. Map G3 casadeltessuto.com

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda (Trevi) Valli Tessuti Alta Moda has offered its clientele the best Made-in-Italy fabrics inspired by the most 26 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

beautiful haute couture collections since launching in 1907. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, ceremony attire, coats, shirts, and bridal gowns. Find them on Facebook at Valli Tessuti. Open Mon–Sat, 9:30am–7pm. Via del Tritone, 126. Tel 064880873 and 064882931. All credit cards accepted including UnionPay and PayPal. Map D3 vallitessuti.com

FOOD & WINE Enoteca DiVini Italiani (Veneto) Well-stocked wine shop offering the most important Italian labels. Friendly and helpful service. Open Mon–Fri, 11am–1pm and 2:30–8pm; Sat 4–8pm. Via Ludovisi, 33. Tel 068276303. Map E/F2

Leonidas (Navona) Belgian chocolates in different flavors and forms: cream, praline, ganache, caramel, nougat, coffee, liqueur, marzipan, truffle, and much more. Made with the best ingredients from around the world. Also sugar-free chocolates, marzipan, chocolate figurines, and personalized gift packages. Via dei Redentoristi, 16. Tel 0668192245. Map D3

GIFTS & COLLECTABLES L’Artigianato (Navona) Many gift ideas, from pottery to porcelain, Venetian masks to Bialetti coffee makers, and more. All products Made in Italy. Tax refunds and international shipping available. Open daily, 10am–1:30pm and 3–8pm. Piazza Navona, 84. Tel 066874476. Map D3

Glassy Venezia (Esquiline) Boutique dedicated to authentic Murano glass works.

Look for items for the home, including wine g lasses, candle holders, and vases; a vast jewelry selection of bracelets, necklaces, earrings and rings; and unique pieces depicting the masterpieces of artists like Klimt, Van Gogh, and Monet. Open daily, 9:30am– 10:30pm. Via Principe Amedeo, 7. Tel 064870875.

Major credit cards accepted. Map G3

Style Capital DOK FAY Traditional Thai massage draws its roots from Indian medicine, which believes that the body is made up of channels of energy and these inform other bodies, such as the mental or emotional body, that are tightly attached to our physical selves. Thai massage works on the second body, which is the energetic body and is used to correct the circulation of energy, which is why it combines accupressure and assisted yoga poses. This is the essence of traditional Thai massage, which is offered by qualified experts at Dok Fay, an intimate and charming wellness center in the heart of Rome. Dok Fay also offers a variety of other treatments such as a Thai massage with oil, a relaxing massage with hot oil, a plantar massage, or a luxurious four-hand massage with oil. Indulge in the massage of your choosing at their elegant location, which is just a short walk from Piazza Navona. Open daily, 10am–9pm.

Via dei Cappellari, 125. Tel 0668300588. All credit cards accepted.

LESLEY Every once in a while, dreams come true. LesLey carries exclusive designer accessories worn once in fashion shows and TV programs. Get yourself an almost new Balenciaga bag, Fendi’s Spy bag, or exclusive garments and accessories from Chloè, Stella McCartney, Alberta Ferretti, Chanel, Dior, Fendi, D&G, Prada, and Gucci. The collections are a maximum of two years old, and the prices are slashed down by 70%. The large store is the brainchild of two sisters, Wendy and Lesley, who will help you choose the right bag or bring you a coffee as you pick out your purchases. All credit cards accepted. Open every day.

Via Lombardia, 38c. Tel 0642020265.

Via Vittoria, 27. Tel 066793646.

Milan store: Via San Nicolao, 3a. (Corner Corso Magenta).

Metro: Cadorna. Tel 0236527599. lesleyshop.it

H&B This sleek salon located just a fewsteps from the Vatican is run by an international staff of Aveda-trained professionals headed by Pasquale del Prete and Annamaria di Carlo. They offer a full range of services including hair treatments, manicures, pedicures, facials, waxing, make-up, and several varieties of massage. Indulge in a relaxing 90-minute holistic body treatment, or have your hair type analyzed in the hair-spa and choose from a number of services including treatments, cuts, coloring, and styling. Shop the full line of Aveda products from shampoo and conditioner to hair-styling, facial care, body care products, massage oils, chakra candles, and a wide array of make-up. Credit cards accepted.

Open Mon–Sat, 9am–7pm.

Piazza della Rovere, 112/113/114. Tel 0668307889. hairbeautyrome.com

LEONIDAS Leonidas’ bonbons are made of the finest ingredients from all over the world: Belgian chocolate, Turkish peanuts, Morello cherries from the Perigord, Italian almonds, Valencia oranges, and Chilean nuts, all prepared with great care in the old traditions.

The chocolates are available in more than 100 flavors and varieties including cream, praline, ganache, caramel, nougat, coffee, liqueur, marzipan, truffle, and many more, and the range of products doesn’t end there. You will also find sugar-free chocolates, marzipan and chocolate figurines, gift baskets, and other personalized, elegant gift packages, prepared while you wait. Leonidas chocolates make the perfect gift for any occasion, for friends, family, or colleagues.

Via dei Redentoristi, 16 (corner of Largo Teatro Valle).

Tel/Fax 0668192245.

A D V E R T I S I N G PA G E

[ FA S H I O N D E S I G N E R S ]

Luxury Top Brands When it comes to shopping, the Eternal City does not disappoint. The birthplace of iconic brands like Bulgari, Fendi, and Valentino, Rome holds its own in the world of high fashion, offering visitors and locals a chance to shop some of the world’s most celebrated luxury brands. If you want a glimpse into the soul of top designer fashion, look no further than the city’s exclusive Via dei Condotti. This glam street is virtually a couture candy store, lush with boutiques by Gucci, Ermenegildo Zegna, Dior, Alberta Ferretti, Dolce & Gabbana, and more.

The nearby Piazza di Spagna, Via Borgognona, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, and Via del Babuino are also must-see spots for fashion mavens.

ALBERTA FERRETTI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm; Sun, 10am–1:30pm and 2:30–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 34. Tel 066991160. albertaferretti.com Map E2

DOLCE&GABBANA Open daily, 10:30am–7:30pm.

Via dei Condotti, 51/52. Tel 0669924999. dolcegabbana.com Map E2

ALTARIVA Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm; Sun, 10am–1:30pm and 2:30–7pm. Via del Tritone, 31/32/33. Tel 0686984609. altarivashoes.it Map E3

EMILIO PUCCI Open daily, 10am–7pm. Piazza di Spagna, 87. Tel 066784058. emiliopucci.com Map E2

ASPESI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm.

Via del Babuino, 144a. Tel 063230376. aspesi.com Map D2 BALENCIAGA Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm.

Via Borgognona, 7e. Tel 0687502260. balenciaga.com Map E2 BLUMARINE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7pm. Via Borgognona, 31. Tel 066790951. blumarine.com Map E2 BORSALINO Open Mon, 3:30pm–7:30pm; Tue– Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm. Via di Campo Marzio, 72a.

Tel 066783945. Map E2. Piazza del Popolo, 20.

Tel 0632650838. Map D1. Via Sistina, 58a. Tel 066788821. Map E2. borsalino.com BOTTEGA VENETA Open Mon–Sat, 10am– 7:30pm; Sun 10am–7pm. Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 9/13. Tel 0668210024. bottegaveneta.com Map D3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Open daily, 10:30am– 7:30pm. Via Borgognona, 33. Tel 066787680. brunellocucinelli.com Map E2 BULGARI Open daily, Mon & Sun, 11am–7pm; Tue–Sat, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 10.

Tel 06696261. bulgari.com Map E2 CAR SHOE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun 11am–7pm. Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina, 5.

Tel 0689385111. carshoe.com Map D3 CARTIER Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7pm; Sunday 11am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 82/83.

Tel 06696751. cartier.com Map E2 CÉLINE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm. Via dei Condotti, 20a. Tel 066787594. celine.com Map E2 CHANEL Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm.

Piazza di Spagna, 85. Tel 0669769999. chanel.com Map E2 CHURCH’S Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 57. Tel 0669190920. church-footwear.com Map E2 DAMIANI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm.

Via dei Condotti, 84. Tel 0669200477. damiani.com Map E2 DIOR Open daily, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 1–4. Tel 0669924489.

(Women’s). Piazza di Spagna, 70/71.

Tel 0669190944. dior.com Map E2

Strut into winter with these sleek leather sneakers from Giorgio Armani.

28 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

EMPORIO ARMANI Open daily, 10:30am–7:30pm.

Via del Babuino, 140. Tel 063221581. armani.com Map D2 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 58. Tel 0669940678. zegna.com Map E2 ETRO Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 10:30am–7:30pm. Via del Babuino, 102.

Tel 066788257. etro.com Map E2 FENDI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 10:30am–7:30pm. Largo Goldoni. Tel 06334501. fendi.com Map E2 FRATELLI ROSSETTI Open Mon–Sat, 10am– 7:30pm; Sun, 10am–2pm, 3pm–7pm.

Via del Babuino, 59.a Tel 0636003957. fratellirossetti.com Map E2 GIORGIO ARMANI Open daily, 10:30am–7:30pm.

Via dei Condotti, 77. Tel 066991460. Map E2.

Via Tomacelli, 144. Tel 0668808160. Map D2 armani.com GUCCI Open Sun–Fri, 10am–7pm; Sat, 10am– 7:30pm. Via dei Condotti, 8. Tel 066790405. gucci.com Map E2 HERMÈS Open daily, 10:30am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 67. Tel 066791882. Via Bocca di Leone, 23a. Tel 066791882. hermes.com Map E2 HOGAN Open daily, 10:30am–2pm and 3pm– 7:30pm. Via del Babuino, 110. Tel 066786828. hogan.com Map E2 JIMMY CHOO Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 68a.

Tel 0669922667. jimmychoo.com Map E2 LORO PIANA Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30-pm; Sun, 11am–2pm and 3pm–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 24.

Tel 0669924906. loropiana.com Map D2 LOUIS VUITTON Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7:30pm. Piazza di S. Lorenzo in Lucina, 41. Tel 0668809520. Map D3. Via dei Condotti, 13. Tel 0669940000. Map E2 louisvuitton.com MAX & CO Open daily, 10am–8pm. Via dei Condotti, 46. Tel 066787946. maxandco.com Map E2 MAX MARA Open daily, 10am–8pm. Via dei Condotti, 17/19. Tel 0669922104. maxmara.com Map E2 MICHAEL KORS Open daily, 10am–8pm. Via dei Condotti, 36. Tel 0669941372. michaelkors.com Map E2 MISSONI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm; Sun, 10:30am–7:30pm. Piazza di Spagna, 78.

Tel 066793419. missoni.com Map E2

Take your cool weather look to the next level with this stark and striking ensemble by Fendi.

MIU MIU Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 10am–7pm.

Via del Babuino, 91. Tel 0636004884. miumiu.com Map E2

MONTBLANC Open Tue–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7pm.

Via dei Condotti, 70. Tel 0669941894. montblanc.com Map E2 MOSCHINO Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am– 7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7:30pm. Via del Babuino, 156. Tel 066781144. moschino.com Map E2

Michael Kors’ new Black Reid watch combines sporty and elegant in the perfect everyday accessory.

POMELLATO Open Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm.

Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 38. Tel 0668809790. pomellato.com Map D3 PRADA Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 92/95 (women’s). Via dei Condotti, 88 (men’s).

Tel 066790897. prada.com Map E2 ROBERTO CAVALLI Open daily, 10:30am– 1pm and 2–7pm. Via Borgognona, 25. Tel 0669925469. robertocavalli.com Map E2 SAINT LAURENT Open daily, 10am–8pm.

Piazza di S. Lorenzo in Lucina, 17. Tel 066795577. ysl.com Map E2 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 10:30am–7:30pm.

Via dei Condotti, 65. Tel 066781130. ferragamo.com Map E2 TOD’S Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7:30pm. Via dei Condotti, 53a.

Tel 066991089 (women’s). Via Fontanella Borghese, 56a. Tel 0668210066 (men’s) tods.com Map E2 TOM FORD FOR MEN (GENTE) Open daily, 10:30am–7:30pm. Via del Babuino, 185. Tel 063226975. tomford.com Map E2 TRUSSARDI Open daily, 10am– 7:30pm. Via Frattina, 42/43. Tel 0669380939. trussardi.com Map E2 VALENTINO Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun 10am–7pm.

Piazza di Spagna, 38. Tel 0694515710. valentino.com

Sizing

Women clothes Euro

US

UK

34 36 38 40 42 44

00 0 2 4 6 8

2 4 6 8 10 12

Women shoes Euro

US

UK

36 37 38 39 40 41

6 7 8 9 10 11

3 4 5 6 7 8

Men clothes (chest) Euro

US

UK

44 46 48 50 52 54

34 36 38 40 42 44

34 36 38 40 42 44

Map E2 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 15. Tel 069025481. vancleefarpels. com Map E2 VERSACE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 10:30am–7:30pm. Piazza di Spagna, 12.

Tel 066780521. versace.com Map E2 ZILLI Open Mon–Sat, 9:30am–7:30pm; Sun, 10:30am–6:30pm. Via Vittorio Veneto, 144.

Tel 06486972. zilli.com Map F2

Men shoes Euro

US

UK

41 42 43 45 46 47

8 9 10 11 12 13

7 8 9 10 11 12

www.wheretraveler.com 29

SHOPPING Promotional sale

up to 50% ARC’TERYX BARBOUR CANADA GOOSE COLMAR FJALLRAVEN PARAJUMPERS SAVE THE DUCK WOOLRICH K-WAY

Via Campo Marzio, 38 Tel 066871420 banchettisport.net

Make In Roma (Navona/Pantheon) Reproductions of ancient Roman and Etruscan jewelry, urns, vases, sculptures, busts, armor, weapons, and hand-painted glass. Each piece is handcrafted from natural materials using ancient techniques. 5% discount for WHERE readers. Piazza Madama, 1. Tel 0668192514 or 3383332023. Also: Piazza della Rotonda, 69a. Tel 066790483. Visa and MC accepted. Map D3 make-in.it

Original Murano Glass (Trevi) A myriad of brilliant colors and flowing crystal forms at competitive prices. Also carries Ferrari products. Worldwide shipping with UPS and FedEx. Open daily, 9:30am– 8pm. Via del Lavatore, 33 and 87a/b. Tel 066789860.

Credit cards accepted. Map E3 muranoglass@virgilio.it

Savelli (Vatican) Founded in 1898, this family-run shop sells religious articles, souvenirs, mosaics, marble, porcelain, and ceramic objects in a welcoming, courteous, organized atmosphere. Open daily, 9am–6:30pm. Via Paolo VI, 27/29. Piazza Pio XII, 1/2. Tel 0668307017. V, MC, AE, D, and JCB accepted. Map B3

Trevi Gallery (Trevi) Murano glass in traditional, classic, and modern designs, as well as jewelry and signed artwork. Official purveyor of Ferrari and Ducati products. World-wide shipping with UPS and FedEx. Tax refunds available. Open daily, 9:30am–8pm. Via delle Muratte, 15. Tel 0669200725.

Map E3 trevigallery.it; info@trevigallery.it

FASHION OUTLETS & MALLS Castel Romano Designer Outlet (Pontina) Over 200 brands with the best designer labels, with price reductions from 30% to 70% all year round.

Wide range of high fashion, sportswear, accessories, home furnishings, and cosmetics. Open Mon–Thu, 10am–8pm; Fri–Sun, 10am-9pm. Shuttle service from Rome Termini (Via Giolitti, 48) departs 5 times daily.

Also stops at Ostiense station and P.le P. Nervi (EUR) once daily. €15.00. Tickets can be purchased online.

Via Ponte di Piscina Cupa, 64. Tel 065050050. Off Map mcarthurglen.it/castelromano

Centro Commerciale Aura (Aurelio) A brand-new shopping mall has opened its doors right in the heart of the city, just a ten minute walk from the Vatican. Features 60 big-name shops, 15 restaurants, and a gym. Viale di Valle Aurelia, 30.

Tel 0639751750. Metro A: Valle Aurelia. Off Map (See A2) centrocommercialeaura.it

Porta di Roma (Bufalotta) Spacious shopping mall bursting with fashion, beauty, sportswear, children’s, and jewelry shops, including Pandora, Imaginarium, Sephora, Swarovski, Calvin Klein Jeans, MAC, Nike, Michael Kors, the Disney Store, O Bag, Liu-Jo, Apple Store, the Lego Store (the only one in Rome) and hundreds more. Open daily, 10am–10pm.

Via Alberto Lionello, 201. Tel 0687074217. Off Map galleriaportadiroma.it

HOME & FURNISHINGS C.U.C.I.N.A. (Spagna) Vast kitchen store offering a wealth of cooking instruments, small appliances, pots and pans, linens, gadgets, tables settings, utensils, storage containers, and gourmet oils and vinegars. The high quality of the products on offer is matched only by the ingeniousness and creativity of the design. Open Tue–Sat, 10am– 30 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

Land of Arts an d Treasures t Savelli’s “Arte e Tradizione” we offer art and handicrafts, precious and innovative souvenirs, religious articles, stamps, jewels, coins, books and more.

The charm of tradition and the newest production co-exist in the multitude of items that Savelli Enterprise is able to propose to its clients, Thinks to experience that started in 1898 and is still continuing with passion in the St. Peter’s area.

Particular attention is given to mosaic art, with the production of original articles for purchase. In the “Savelli Gallery”, you can visit a precious collection of mosaics, dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries.

Savelli’s “Colonnato” is also a comfortable and convenient refreshment point, offering typical local dishes and bar service.

Galleria Savelli Religious Articles Piazza Pio XII, 1/2 - Roma Savelli Arte e Tradizione Mosaic Art Gallery Via Paolo VI, 27/29 - Roma Savelli Gift Religious & Gift Shop Via della Conciliazione, 47 - Roma Museo Mosaici Minuti Romani Largo Alicorni, 27 - Roma Il Colonnato Restaurant Self Service Piazza Sant’Uffizio, 6 - Roma

SHOPPING 7:30pm; Sun, Mon, 11:30am–7:30pm. Via Mario de Fiori, 65. Tel 066791275. All credit cards accepted.

Map E2 cucinastore.com

Mobilnovo (Veneto) Prestigious furnishings and the expert advice of architects and interior designers. B&B Italia, Flou, Kartell, and Zanotta. Worldwide shipping and installation. Via Sicilia, 267. Open Mon–Sat, 9:30am–2pm and 3:30–8pm; Fri, 9:30am–1:30pm and 3:30–8pm. Closed Mon morning. Map F/ G1 Also: Via Anastasio II, 103. Open Mon–Sat, 9am–1pm and 4–8pm. Off Map Via G. Ferrari, 7.

Map C1 mobilnovo.it

JEWELRY Ansuini (Navona) Founded in Rome, this historic jewelry house creates exquisite adornments encrusted with precious and semi-precious stones, opals, pearls, coral, and more. Designs range from classic and traditional to daring and innovative, and include a bridal collection, a men’s collection, and a formal collection. Open Mon, 3:30–7:15pm; Tue–Sat, 10am–7:15pm. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 151. Tel 0668806909. Map D3 ansuini.it

Angela Caputi Giuggiù (Navona) Combining contemporary and classical styles, this jewelry brand comes from the imagination and skill of Angela Caputi, a Florentine artisan who has been creating fashionable costume jewelry by hand since 1975, and now has shops around Europe. Each piece is still created by hand with synthetic resins in bold, sophisticated designs. Open Tue–Sun, 10:30am– 1:30pm and 2:30–7:30pm. Via delle Carrozze, 67. Tel 0687165157. Map D/E2 angelacaputi.com

Nicotra di San Giacomo (Navona)

This shop is located in Piazza Navona and specializes in gifts, home furnishings, and handmade objects.

Merchandise ranges from classics – such as Capodimonte chinaware, artistic china, Murano glassware, and table games – to a more modern style, including articles from famous design companies like Alessi, Bialetti, and Giannini. All items are exclusively Made in Italy, the world-renowned stamp of careful manufacturing and extreme attention to detail. Open daily, 10am–8pm. Tax-free shopping for non-EU residents.

Worldwide shipping available. Special prices for WHERE readers.

This thoroughly unique jewelry line takes the Renaissance gold-working technique of weaving precious metals with threads of silk, and combines it with modern, innovative designs. The result is a plethora of bracelets, rings, necklaces, earrings (and even shoes!), that can be identified as both jewel and garment. Each piece is one-of-a-kind and crafted by hand. Via del Governo Vecchio, 128. Tel 0668210407.

Map C/D3 ndsg.it

LEATHER Il Bisonte (Spagna/Navona) This historic Florentine leather goods boutique offers handcrafted purses, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, agendas, belts, and other accessories made with time-honored traditions. The brand’s signature material is a vegetable-tanned cowhide that improves with age. Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm; Sun, 11am– 6:30pm. Via Borgognona, 13. Tel 0668808097. Map E2 Via dei Coronari, 105a/106. Tel 066834092. Map C/D3 Major credit cards accepted. ilbisonte.com

Carlo Cecchini (Trastevere) High-quality leather creations in a vast range of designs conceived for a varied crowd of all ages.

Selling bags, shoes, and accessories crafted in the old Italian leather-making traditions, in classic, simple styles. Via della Lungaretta, 65/65a. Tel 065809877.

Piazza G. T. Arquati, 122. Tel 065898876. Map C4

PASSION SHOPPING Culti House Roma (Spagna) This small, charming boutique characterized by 32 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

maple wood furniture was designed to stimulate the senses with a mix of perfume, design, and art. The space showcases all the Culti brand’s collections of home fragrances, including diffusers, sprays, candles, and scented sachets, as well as their new cosmetics lines for personal care. Open daily, 10:30am–2pm and 3–7:30pm. Via Vittoria, 61. Tel 0645493442. Map E2 culti.com

PERFUMERIES Campomarzio70 (Corso) Luxury perfume shop offering brands such as Acqua di Parma, Bruno Acampora, Carthusia, Clive Christian, Creed, Lorenzo Villoresi, Penhaligon’s, and Vero Profumo.

Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm. Via di Campo Marzio, 70. Tel 0669202123. Map D3 Piazza della Rotonda, 70a. Tel 0669202394. Via Vittoria, 52. Tel 0669797739. Map D/E2 campomarzio70. it

Cherry (Spagna) Wide selection of perfumes by Agonist, Andy Tauer, Nishane, 777, NasoMatto, Otto Parisi, Creed, Beaufort, Tola, Oliver, Montale, Mancera, Quartana, Le Galion, Map of the Heart, Room 1015, Naomi Goodsir, and more. Men’s shaving accessories from England and home fragrances.

Via F. Crispi, 73. Tel 066787428. Map E2

Via della Scrofa, 69 - Tel 06164162880

The Merchant of Venice (Spagna) This historic fragrance brand celebrates the Venetian art of perfume making, carrying a luxury line comprised of a wide array of exclusive scents for men and women, bath and body collections, home fragrances, and accessories; all presented in elegant flacons that recall the designs of the Murano glass blowers. Open every day, 10:30am–1:30pm and 2:30– 7:30pm. Via Bocca di Leone, 93/94. Tel 066780834.

Map E2 www.themerchantofvenice.com

SHOES Altariva (Spagna/Trevi) Since 1976, this boutique has been selling the finest Made in Italy and international footwear and leather goods. The staff helps clients discover an array of fashionable brands and handmade items.

Excellent price/quality ratio and impeccable service. Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm; Sun, 10am–1:30pm and 2:30–7pm. Via del Tritone, 31/32/33. Tel 0686984609. 5% discount for Union Pay cardholders on all non-sale priced items. Map E3 altarivashoes.it

Find them on Instagram and Facebook.

Casa del Tessuto Since 1927

®

Итальянские ткани Dolce e Gabbana - Roberto Cavalli - Etro Giorgio Armani - Prada - Gucci

Vast assortment of Italian fabrics: silk, cotton, linen, wool and cashmere ��High quality and fabulous prices ��Wide range of fabrics for wedding dresses ��Direct sales from the factory with menswear fabric ‘Ermenegildo Zegna’ ��Direct import of English fabric “Liberty” Via dello Statuto, 64/66.

Tel 064872813 - Fax 064870510 www.casadeltessuto.com info@casadeltessuto.com

Petrocchi (Navona) Numerous styles of elegant and classy handmade shoes, both made-to-measure and ready-to-wear, in the finest leather. Vicolo Sugarelli, 2. Tel 066876289.

Open Mon–Fri, 8am–5:30pm; Sat 9am–1pm. Open by appointment Sun, in the evening, and after closing hours. All credit cards accepted. Map C3 calzoleriapetrocchi.it

STATIONERY Antica Cartotecnica (Pantheon) Antique and modern pens, leather bags, planners, address books, desk accessories, pencils, greeting cards, antique stationery, world maps, and typewriters from the ‘40s. Brands include MontBlanc, Piquadro, Omas, Caran d’Ache, Aurora, Filofax, and more. Piazza dei Caprettari, 61. Tel 066875671/066877093. Map D3

Via della Minerva, 6. Tel 066991721.

Piazza Sant’Andrea della Valle, 4. Tel 06688802918. klkstore.com

www.wheretraveler.com 33

DINING

Picture of Health Half restaurant, half market, Hosteria del Mercato delights with healthy, organic fare.

Antonella Mastrosanti fills you in.

In a Renaissance-style garden a short jaunt from Piazza di Spagna lies Hosteria del Mercato, a charming eatery that wears many hats: restaurant, organic juice bar, tea room, cocktail bar, and organic food market.

Hostaria del Mercato’s innovative concept allows guests to either dine at the restaurant or bring home 100% exclusively natural, organic, and sustainable products. Inspired by markets like Queens Road Farmers’ in London, the bio-mercato features goods sourced directly from farms, distinguishing it as a place where it is effortless to acquire delicacies from small businesses that have dedicated themselves entirely to the land and the seasons.

Fruits and veggies, freshly picked and gathered, cured meats and organic cheeses, pastas made with hemp or legume flour, a rich selection of rices, gluten-free bread, rustic breads naturally leavened and made with ancient grain flours, baguettes baked with a variety of seeds, extra-virgin olive oils, and certified organic wines 34 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 2019

make up the healthy and satisfying gastronomic offering.

Even the market’s “junk food” becomes nutritious, organic, and often vegan: things like corn and whole wheat farro, and red lentil, sweet potato, parsnip, beetroot, or carrot chips crowd the shelves.

All of the pizzas on tap are made with organic flour and are naturally leavened to preserve their aromas and flavors along with their nutritional properties. The pizza is rolled out by hand with a rolling pin until each disk of dough is paper thin, guaranteeing a crispy crust—a hallmark of Roman-style pizza.

In the restaurant, gourmet panini, salads, and meat-andcheese boards are listed alongside other more substantial dishes, like ravioli with sheep’s milk ricotta and spinach; tonnarelli cacio e pepe with zucchini blossoms; sesame encrusted tuna sneak; grilled octopus; steak with black truffle; and for dessert, vanilla crème brulée with blueberries and zuppa inglese with meringue and black cherry. > Via Bocca di Leone, 46.

Tel 0669923705. hosteriadelmercato.it

DINING HAUTE CUISINE Assaje – Hotel Aldrovandi Villa Borghese (Parioli) Gourmet restaurant located inside a luxe hotel.

The talented chefs concoct masterpieces of Mediterranean cuisine with top-notch ingredients and technical precision. Menu highlights include seared sea scallops with purple potatoes, asparagus, and beetroot; ravioli with squid, potatoes, creamed tomatoes, and smoked provolone; and oxtail tortelli with broccoli, pears, and Castelmagno fondue. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi, 15. Tel 063216126. (€€€€) Off Map aldrovandi.com

The Flair Rooftop Restaurant – Hotel Sina Bernini Bristol (Barberini)

rooftop terrace of the Grand Hotel de la Minerve.

Order a decadent six-course tasting menu, or choose a visually stunning dish off the à la carte menu. Open daily, 7:30–11pm. Piazza della Minerva, 69. Tel 06695201. (€€€€) Map D3 minervaroofgarden.it

Mirabelle (Veneto) Rooftop restaurant where Chef Stefano Marzetti serves Mediterranean flavors with a touch of imagination. Try beer-glazed wild salmon with chili pepper sponge, sweet gorgonzola, and peanuts. Via di Porta Pinciana, 14. Tel 06421689.

Credit cards accepted. (€€€€) Map E2

La Pergola (Trionfale) World-renowned chef Heinz Beck offers exquisite

Italian cuisine at Rome’s only 3-Michelinstarred restaurant, boasting panoramic views of the whole city. Teotonic precision married to Mediterranean flavors makes for an exceptional dining experience. Try spaghetti cacio e pepe with white shrimp marinated in lime; lamb with mushrooms and Jerusalem artichokes; or lobster with radicchio and crunchy lentils. For dessert, coconut variation with banana and lime. Open for dinner Tue–Sat. Reservations essential. Via A. Cadlolo, 101. Tel 0635091. (€€€€) Off Map

Salone Eva (Spagna) Located inside luxurious Hassler Hotel, this elegant locale is both a restaurant and bar offering a chic dining experience. Come for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, or dinner, and

Located on the top floor of the 5-star hotel, The Flair is a brand-new, ultra-panoramic restaurant led by the young expert chef Alessandro Caputo who crafts high Mediterranean cuisine with superior ingredients, impeccable technique, and creativity. The design is contemporary and the enormous windows offer sweeping views of the entire city. Extensive wine list and high-class service. Open Mon–Sat, 7–11pm. Piazza Barberini, 23. Tel 0642010469. (€€€) Map F2

Harry’s Bar (Veneto) An elegant restaurant and bar with live music nightly and exclusive outdoor dining. Try steamed lobster salad; smoked provolone and champagne risotto; turbot with artichokes; or lamb cutlets with spinach, walnuts, and mint. Standout desserts include apple puff pastry with vanilla and cinnamon ice-cream. Bar: Open 11am–2am.

Restaurant: Open 12:30–2:45pm and 7:30pm– 1am. Credit cards accepted. Via V. Veneto, 150.

Tel 06484643. harrysbar.it (€€€/€€€€) Map F2

Imàgo-Hassler Panoramic Restaurant (Spagna) Top chef Andrea Antonini offers a creative menu atop the Spanish Steps, featuring a magnificent view of the entire Roman horizon. Try the Fassona tartare with anchovies and chicory, riso with asparagus and scampi prawns, tagliolini with rabbit, cedar and nori seaweed, octopus with lettuce and burrata cheese, lamb with potatoes and caprino cheese; and ricotta millefeuille with cubeba pepper and apricot. Open daily, 7–10:30pm. Piazza Trinità dei Monti, 6. Tel 06699340. Credit cards accepted. (€€€€) Map E2 imagorestaurant.com

Le Jardin de Russie (Spagna) Offers classic Italian dining at its best.

Tantalizing Mediterranean dishes made from only the freshest ingredients are created by Chef Nazzareno Menghini, with the exceptional contribution of top chef Fulvio Pierangelini. Via del Babuino, 9. Tel 0632888870. Credit cards accepted. (€€€€) Map D1/2

MadeITerraneo (Trevi) Glorious rooftop bar/restaurant atop Rinascente department store with sweeping views of the city.

The menu features creative pan-Mediterranean cuisine by Michelin-starred chef, Riccardo Di Giacinto, gourmet desserts, and a vast selection of wines, sparkling wines, and cocktails. Via del Tritone, 61. Second entrance: Via Due Macelli, 23.

Tel 066992284. (€€€) Map E3 madeiterraneo.com

Minerva Roof Garden (Pantheon) Dine fine Mediterranean cuisine on the panoramic www.wheretraveler.com 35

DINING choose among an array of sandwiches, pizzas, salads, meat, pasta, and fish. Wine by the glass and expertly prepared cocktails also available.

Live piano music in the evening. Open daily, 11am–late. Piazza Trinità dei Monti, 6. Tel 06699340. (€€€) Map E2

Sapori del Lord Byron (Parioli) In an elegant yet contemporary ambience, the chef offers seasonal menus to ensure freshness and quality, matched with diligent service. Sapori offers all the ingredients for a sensational meal.

Open for lunch and dinner. Via G. de Notaris, 5. Tel 063220404. Credit cards accepted. (€€€) Off Map

RESTAURANTS BY AREA APPIA ANTICA Hostaria Antica Roma (Italian) Notable restaurant in an evocative, historic setting along the Ancient Appian Way in the shadow of the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella. The menu offers historic ancient recipes like Columella-style gilt-head bream, traditional Roman dishes such as bucatini all’amatriciana and rigatoni cacio e pepe, grilled meats, fresh fish, a large selection of fine wines and liqueurs, and house-made desserts.

Outdoor dining in warm weather. Open Tue–Sun, 12:15–2:45pm and 7:30–10:45pm. Via Appia Antica, 176. Tel 065132888. All credit cards accepted. (€€€) Off Map hostariaanticaroma.it

36 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 2019

CAMPO DE’ FIORI & JEWISH GHETTO

also on offer. Open daily, 11am–11:30pm. Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 61/65. Tel 0668801607. All credit cards accepted. (€€) Map D4 lareginella.it

Il Giardino Romano (Jewish Roman)

La Taverna del Ghetto (Jewish Roman)

This cozy restaurant offers traditional RomanJewish recipes like fried artichokes, fried salt cod, amatriciana, cacio e pepe, oxtail stew, lamb scottadito, and many more. Open Thu–Tue, 12noon–3pm and 7–11pm. Via Portico d’Ottavia, 18.

Tel 0668809661. (€/€€) Map C5 ilgiardinoromano.it

Welcoming restaurant offering the best of Judaeo-Roman cuisine, such as carciofi alla giudia; stuffed Roman zucchini; fried salt cod filet; fettuccine with braised meat; a kosher version of carbonara; salt cod with cherry tomatoes, raisins, and pine nuts; veggie burgers; and Kosher meat kebabs. Wide selection of Italian and Israeli wines. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 8. Tel 0668809771. Map C5 latavernadelghetto.com

Giggetto al Portico (Jewish Roman) Tucked behind the Portico d’Ottavia, this friendly spot serves hearty Jewish-Roman cuisine including deep-fried artichokes, baccalà, and stuffed zucchini flowers. Closed Mon. Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 21a.

Tel 066861105. Credit cards and travelers’ cheques accepted. (€€) Map D4 giggettoalportico.com

Pierluigi (Italian) In a lovely piazza, sample excellent fresh seafood, arriving daily from the Lazio coast, as well as creative pasta dishes, perfectly prepared vegetables, and sinful desserts. Excellent wine list. Open Tues–Sun, 12noon–3pm and 7pm– 12midnight. Piazza de’ Ricci, 144. Tel 066868717. (€€€) Map C3 pierluigi.it

I Sofà Bar Restaurant & Roof Terrace (Italian/Roman) Elegant restaurant with rooftop terrace offering views of the entire city. Revisited Roman cuisine with local ingredients. Live music Fri, Sat, Sun nights. Buffet breakfast also offered. Open 12–2:30pm and 7–10:30pm. Via Giulia, 62. Tel 0668661846. All credit cards accepted. (€€€) Map C3 isofa.it

La Reginella (Jewish Roman)

CIRCUS MAXIMUS & AVENTINE

Elegant restaurant dedicated to the rediscovery of the ancient Jewish-Roman culinary tradition, revisiting classic dishes with a modern and gourmet twist. Thin-crusted Roman-style pizza

Rooftop oasis offering seafood, vegetable, pasta, and meat dishes made with local, quality ingredients. The evolving menu includes risotto

47 Circus Roof Garden (Italian)

BISTROT WINE BAR Open daily, 10am–12midnight. All credit cards accepted.

Via Principe Amedeo, 7/B l Tel 064823138 l bottegaamodei.it The simple neighborhood Italian grocer is tran-

bianca, salads, carpaccio meats, and Fassona beef

sformed into a gourmet bistro by Amodei. In

tartare, as well as the variety of dishes prepared

this intimate restaurant and shop, you can buy

on site like eggplant parmigiana, lasagna, strips

high-quality Italian wines, olive oils, and other

of beef marinated in red wine, and meatballs in

delicacies to take home as tasty souvenirs. Diners

tomato sauce. Don’t miss the stand-out desserts

can stop in to enjoy a variety of warm and cold di-

such as Cantucci cookies served with Vinsan-

shes, all crafted with the finest ingredients. Make

to dessert wine, peaches in syrup with chantilly

sure to try the unmissable Roman pizza, DOP

cream, a variety of cakes and, of course, tiramisù.

(Protected Designation of Origin) cured meats

There is a wide variety of high quality wines to

and mozzarella, goose meat salami, stuffed pizza

choose from as well. Also open after dinner.

DINING with asparagus and black truffle; spaghetti with clams and parsley; and sea bass with vegetable caponata. Open Mon–Sun, 12noon–12midnight.

Via Luigi Petroselli, 47. Tel 066787816. (€€€) Map E4 47 circusroofgarden.com

Osteria Circo (Roman) Cozy and informal restaurant nestled into the ancient ruins of the Palatine. The menu combines high-quality seasonable produce and expert preparation: classic Roman pasta, hearty meat dishes, veggie burgers, pizza, and more. Tempting dessert menu and ample wine list. Open daily, 8am–2am. Via dei Cerchi, 79. Tel 0631078932. All credit cards accepted. (€€) Map E5 circoroma.it

Parole in Libertà Bistrot (Bistro)

carpaccio meats, Fassona beef tartare and other delicacies. Open daily, 10am–12midnight. Via Principe Amedeo, 7b. Tel 064823138. All credit cards accepted. (€€) Map G3 bottegaamodei.it

Centro (Mediterranean)

You’re in luck!

salmon burger, slow-cooked rack of lamb, and many more.

Open all day. Via Cavour, 61. Tel 0648913935. (€€/€€€) Map G3 centrorestaurant.it

Chestnuts are in season! Find them freshly roasted by street vendors around Diana’s Place (Italian) the city.

A warm, inviting restaurant passionate

Modern restaurant combining exemplary ingredients, an exceptional kitchen team, and a wait staff that strives to make their guests feel right at home. Dishes range from traditional to innovative and include fettuccella pasta with porcini mushrooms, paccheri all’amatriciana, spaghettone with butter and anchovies, Danish beef filet,

about Italian gastronomy and quality ingredients, serving original dishes and reinterpreted classics, while still maintaining a sense of tradition. Their wine cellar has over a thousand carefully selected labels. Open Mon– Sat, 10am–12midnight; Sun, 5pm–12midnight.

Via Volturno, 54. Tel 0687818000. (€€) Map G2 dianasplace.it

This restaurant brings its unique “gastrophilosophy” to the Roman dining scene. Inspired by the Futurist movement, the dishes are meant to be eaten with the hands or with the help of a focaccia specially designed to enhance the flavors.

Restaurant: open daily, 7pm–12midnight; bar: open daily, 5:30pm–12midnight. Via Luigi Petroselli, 47. Tel 066787816. (€€) Map E4 paroleinlibertabistrot.com

COLOSSEUM & CELIO Angelino ai Fori (Roman) Family-run trattoria in business since 1947 in a charming setting with views of the ancient city.

The cuisine exalts simple, high-quality, seasonal ingredients, and the menu is strictly traditional, offering pasta dishes such as carbonara, amatriciana, gricia, cacio e pepe, or classic Roman meat or fish dishes. Open daily, 12noon–11pm.

Largo Corrado Ricci, 40/43a./Via dei Fori Imperiali, 25. Tel 066791121. (€€/€€€) Map E/F4 angelinoaifori.com

Sitar (Indian) Authentic North Indian dishes like paneer tikka and chicken curry as well as tawa prantha cuisine. Fixed veg (€15) or non-veg (€18) menus at lunch. Open Tue–Sun 12noon–3pm and 7pm–12midnight. Via Cavour, 256a. Tel 0689026710.(€/€€) Map F4 sitarroma.org; sitar.ristoranteindiano2002@gmail.com

Where Taste Meets Sight

The originality of the chef, superior quality of ingredients and technical mastery come together for a taste experience with an unrivaled view of Ancient Rome.

EUR & OSTIENSE AQVI Pool (Italian/Mediterranean) A trendy spot to spend your leisure time in Rome, this sunlit and spacious area emerged in the greenery of a private Mediterranean garden awaits guests for a relaxing lunch in shade, a refreshing swim, or a delicious cocktail. AQVI’s boasts a wide range of Italian specialties and international classics, all prepared with local, seasonal ingredients of the highest quality. Open daily, 6:30am–11:30pm. AQVI bar: 10am–1am. Viale del Pattinaggio, 100. Tel 3336230822. (€€/€€€) Off Map aqvirestaurantrome.com

MONTI,NAZIONALE, TERMINI & REPUBBLICA Amodei Bistrot Wine Bar (Italian) This bistrot and wine bar offers a wide array of tempting Italian dishes, such as eggplant parmesan, lasagna, beef straccetti marinated in red wine, and meatballs in tomato sauce to be enjoyed in their cozy dining room. They also offer unmissable Roman-style pizza, DOP cured meats and cheese, goose meat salami, www.wheretraveler.com 39

DINING Indian Affairs (Indian) Serving cuisine from all over India with a selection of traditional dishes like tandoori chicken, prawn vindaloo, and aloo gobi in an elegant setting. Open daily, 11:30am–3:30pm and 6:30–11:30pm. Via Palermo, 6b. Tel 0645437655. Credit cards accepted. (€€) Map F3 ristoranteindianaffairs.com

iconic fountain. of the Four Rivers.

Open daily, 11am–11pm. Pza Navona, 37. Tel 066864028. Credit cards accepted. (€€/€€€) Map D3 ristorante-4fiumi.com

The Abbey Theatre (Irish)

Did you know?

Governo Vecchio, 79. Tel 0668808124. (€€) Map D3 bistrotwinebarpasquino.com

The Bombay Blues (Indian) Amatriciana, gricia, Easily the most elegant Indian carbonara, and cacio e restaurant in Rome, this intimate pepe are the royal flush eatery offers diners a luxurious culinary journey through the of Roman pasta traditional flavors, colors, and scents dishes.

Try the tandoori specialties, curries, kerala paratha, samosas, and more at this authentic and inviting Indian restaurant. Tripadvisor’s Certificate of Excellence 2010–2015. Open daily, 11am–4pm and 7–11:30pm. Via Foscolo, 13. Tel 067005267. (€/€€) Map F3/4 krishna13ristorante.com

Irish beers on tap: Guinness, Harp, and Kilkenny plus bottled beer, and a long list of Irish whiskeys. Open for lunch and dinner. Fast menu: burger, fries, and a beer for €10. Cowboy menu: 250g steak, fries, salad, and beer for €16. Open Sun–Thu, 11am–2am; Fri–Sat, until 3am. Via del Governo Vecchio, 51/53. Tel 066861341. (€€) Map C/D3 abbey-rome.com

of the subcontinent. Enjoy specialties such as tandoori chicken, rice biryani, fresh naan, aloo palak, tikka masala, lamb vindaloo, samosas, and many other delicacies. Open daily, 11am–3pm and 6–11:30pm. Via del Piè di Marmo, 36. Tel 0689830199. (€€/€€€) Map D/E3 thebombaybluesroma.com

Mother India (Indian)

Antica Trattoria da Luigi (Italian)

Capranica Enoteca & Taverna (Italian)

Enjoy authentic Indian delicacies including mixed tandoori, shrimp vindaloo (slightly spicy), fish kofta, and chicken or mutton Madras. Fixed menus: vegetarian (€14), meat (€19), shrimp or fish (€22). Open daily. Via dei Serpenti, 148. Tel 064740777. Credit cards accepted. (€€) Map F4 motherindia.it; motherindia68@yahoo.com

Typical Roman and Mediterranean dishes such as octopus carpaccio, fettuccine alla Luigi (shellfish, tomato, and arugula), and baked turbot with potatoes. Open for lunch and dinner.

Closed Mon. Piazza Sforza Cesarini, 23/24. Tel 066865946/0668805463. Credit cards accepted. (€€) Map C3

NAVONA & PANTHEON

Bistrot Pasquino (Italian)

Krishna 13 (Indian)

4 Fiumi (Italian) Situated inside stunning Piazza Navona and serving Mediterranean cuisine from pasta to fish to meat. Outdoor seating in front of Bernini’s

40 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

Cozy, quaint restaurant serving pizza, pasta, mixed cheese platters, and much more. Spark your appetite with a bruschetta with various toppings, charcuterie board, or a salads, then continue with a plate of classic Roman pasta like carbonara or cacio e pepe. Specializes in wine and cocktails. Open every day, 7am–2am. Via del

Elegant restaurant with a refined menu featuring truffle gnocchi, homemade pasta with porcini mushrooms, charcuterie, swordfish, grilled meats, and pizza. The wine bar boasts over 1000 labels, distilled liquors, and Italian draught beers. Buffet menu at lunch. Open Tue–Sun, 11am–2am. Piazza Capranica, 104. Tel 066790860. Cel 3357581781.

Credit cards accepted. (€€) Map D/E3

Il Falchetto (Italian) Serving customers since 1916 just steps from bustling Via del Corso in the heart of the city, with charming indoor and outdoor seating. The well-stocked wine list allows for perfect pairing with classic Roman pasta dishes like cacio e pepe and carbonara as well as fish and meat secondi.

Where_novemb_2019_206x276.qxp_Layout 1 22/10/19 10:38 Pagina 1

ROOF TOP EXPERIENCE Les Etoiles

Lunch and Dinner Italian Aperitivo Cocktails Wines and spirits

Ristorante e Terrazza

In the heart of historical Rome, two blocks from Vatican City, come and experience Roof Garden Restaurant “Les Etoiles� and a huge panoramic Terrace Bar. Open every day from 10:00 am till midnight.

Via dei Bastioni, 1 (corner Via G. Vitelleschi) Tel. +39 06 686386 www.atlantehotels.com

The Gourmet Guide to Rome RISTORANTE PIZZERIA PASQUINO PIAZZA PASQUINO, 1.

TEL 066893043. �RISTORANTEPIZZERIAPASQUINO.COM

Tradition and innovation join forces for a cuisine that is in constant evolution. Here, clients hail from all over the world, and the restaurant’s food reflects that, offering a variety of dishes that will suit a range of palates.

The universally beloved pizza is naturally on the menu, along with soups, pastas, and meat and fish entrées.

The staff is welcoming and cordial.

Located in charming Piazza di Pasquino, a quick jaunt from Piazza Navona.

JAZZ CAFÉ VIA GIUSEPPE ZANARDELLI, 12.

TEL 0668210119.

DID YOU KNOW?

�JAZZCAFEROMA.COM

In ancient times, the Parione neighborhood was home to a sprawling wall, most likely belonging to the Stadium of Domitan, where Piazza Navona now stands. The locals gave it the nickname Parietone (translated as “big wall” in old Italian), which eventually evolved into the modern moniker “Parione.” Its symbol is a rampant griffon, a Greek mythological creature with the head of an eagle and the body of a lion, a motif that represents pride and nobility.

Indulging in an excellent pizza in the historic center is one of the best ways to soak up the city. Jazz Café bakes to perfection a vast range of pizzas, from the classic Margherita to gourmet options topped with carefully sourced ingredients. The preparation of their meat and fish dishes strictly follows Roman tradition. Make sure to leave room for dessert, in particular their signature tiramisù! Intrigued? The restaurant is located on the splendid Via Zanardelli, right behind Palazzo Altemps.

PASQUINO THE TALKING STATUE A true curiosity in Rome is its collection of so-called talking statues.

By far the most famous is Pasquino, who gave his name to a small square adjacent to Piazza Navona. Legend has it that the original Pasquino was a tailor who lived nearby in the 15th century and was known for critiquing the leaders and dignitaries of the day with a particularly quick and cutting wit. When Pasquino died, an ancient statue took over his work. A highly damaged Greek sculpture was discovered nearby and placed in the aforementioned piazza.

Quickly a tradition sprung up: anyone with an axe to grind against the power that be would write their anonymous complaint

and affix it to the base of the statue. And so, Pasquino the talking statue was born. Over the years, these commentators became more creative, writing criticisms in rhyme or with clever wordplay that caused as much laughter as indignation. A few of these verbal gems have survived the centuries, the most famous being, when Pope Urban VIII Barberini ordered the bronze decorating the Pantheon to be melted down and used for the Baldacchino in St. Peter’s: “What the barbarians didn’t do, the Barberini did!” The tradition is still used in Rome, although it’s no longer permitted to affix notices directly to the statue. Now there is a special board placed beside Pasquino for that purpose.

MAPS © MARIO CAMERINI

RISTORANTE DA NAVONA PIAZZA NAVONA, 67.

TEL 0668806827. �RISTORANTEPIZZERIANAVONA.COM

Let history surround you at this exquisitely placed restaurant! Treat yourself to traditional Roman cuisine and pizza all while taking in breathtaking Piazza Navona. Seats in the outdoor veranda offer views of the glorious works by Bernini and Borromini in the square. Not in the mood for a full meal? Stop by before dinner for an aperitivo, with the city’s most famous square as your backdrop. It doesn’t get any better than this.

BISTROT PASQUINO VIA DEL GOVERNO VECCHIO, 79.

TEL 0668808124. �BISTROTWINEBARPASQUINO.COM

This bistrot is beloved by both locals and tourists, attracting a mix of nationalities and languages. An all-day affair, Pasquino is open for breakfast (classic Italian coffee and cornetti are on tap along with more international breakfast offerings), lunch, aperitif, and dinner. While the location on Via del Governo Vecchio is historic, dishes are modern and creative. The warmth and professionalism of the staff is well-known throughout the neighborhood.

BEHIND PIAZZA NAVONA Long, oval-shaped Piazza Navona is one of the top attractions of Rome, as well as being arguably the most beautiful square in the world, but not everyone knows the rich history behind it. Where we see the piazza today, with its three splendid fountains and colorful sidewalk cafés, there was once an ancient stadium. A long oval racetrack was built here by Emperor Domitian in the 1st century AD, where footraces and Olympic-style games were held.

As the centuries passed and the stadium fell into ruin, resourceful medieval families built homes into the stone foundation that had once been the seating area. More and more homes were built, following the curving path of the stadium seats, and the result is one of the sites that most

illustrates the continuation of Rome throughout the centuries, the passage of time imprinted on the very urban fabric of the city. Much of the stadium’s ruins are open to the public via a small museum at Via di Tor Sanquinia, 3. Another fascinating chapter in Piazza Navona’s history was the naumachia. Every weekend in August, from 1652 to 1865, the piazza was flooded up to a meter deep, and large horse-drawn carriages would parade to the merriment and delight of all. This tradition, which provided the Roman populace with much needed frolicking and refreshment, came about as a throwback to the miniature naval battles that were staged in the Stadium of Domitian and even the Colosseum during the Roman Empire.

TheArt Art of The ofDining Dining CAPRANICA ENOTECA & TAVERNA �Piazza Capranica, 104. Tel (+39) 3357581781. tavernacapranica.it tavernacapranica@virgilio.it

The atmosphere is magical at Capranica Enoteca & Taverna, one of the most beautiful restaurants in town. Situated in a 15th-century building (PALAZZO CAPRANICA), halfway between Montecitorio and the Pantheon, the Taverna features cherry-wood furnishings and copper objects. Bottles cover the high walls all the way up to the vaulted ceilings, offering an exciting view of the wines, distilled liqueurs, and high quality grappas. The cuisine is traditional and exquisitely Mediterranean, with many different kinds of homemade pastas, grilled meats, DOP Italian cheeses, and skillfully prepared thin and crunchy pizzas. Dine together with politicians, artists, and tourists, and enjoy an intimate evening surrounded by traditional decorations from the Italian countryside. Pleasant outdoor space. Free WiFi. Open daily, 11am–1am. Closed Mon. All credit cards accepted.

LE MANI IN PASTA

�Via dei Genovesi, 37. Tel 065816017. lemaniinpasta.net

Tucked amid the winding paths of the lively neighborhood of Trastevere, this welcoming restaurant takes pride in its outstanding Italian cuisine. The place is popular with locals, thanks to the traditional Roman dishes, made with only the freshest, in-season ingredients, and the professionalism of the staff, boasting more than 30 years’ experience. The talented chef spoils his guests with the highest quality fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, and other local ingredients. For a first course, try the linguine with lobster or the delectable homemade ravioli. For a heartier second course, a particular specialty is the baked turbot with sea bass and potatoes, or choose from a long list of meat and seafood dishes. When it’s time for dessert, tempt your taste buds with a classic tiramisù or a more daring semifreddo al gorgonzola.

Reservations are a must as this buzzing little restaurant fills up quickly. Open daily, 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11:30pm. All credit cards accepted except Diner’s.

SU DA FRANCESCO �Via del Corallo, 3. Tel 0687725655. dafrancesco.it/da-francesco-su

Located in the heart of Rome, just around the corner from Piazza Navona, Su Da Francesco is a new restaurant that offers an excellent selection of Italian and French wine and a meticulous selection of high-quality fresh ingredients, all in one of the most exclusive Roman “living rooms.” From Japanese Wagyu meat to Iberian Pastores lamb, from the vast selection of Italian cured meats and cheeses to the legendary Jamón Ibérico and incomparable French cheeses, Su Da Francesco proudly offers some of the most famous national and international culinary products. The passion for food and haute cuisine has led to new dishes that brilliantly bring together ingredients in original ways. Their spirits menu has more than one hundred labels, ushering the diner into an entertaining and exclusive after-dinner experience. Open daily, 7pm–12:30am.

A D V E R T I S I N G PA G E

TheArt Art of The ofDining Dining TRINITÀ DEI MONTI

�Piazza Trinità dei Monti, 15. Tel +390669921135. ristorantepiazzadispagna.com At this gorgeous restaurant located atop the Spanish Steps, wine connoisseurs can sip excellent vintages of Sassicaia, Gaja, Frescobaldi, and Antinori, and foodies can fulfill all their gourmet wishes with excellent Mediterranean cuisine. Stand-out first courses include ravioli stuffed with braised beef in a Barolo wine sauce; pumpkin risotto with duck breast and rosemary; mezze maniche pasta with gorgonzola cheese, walnuts, and arugula; lobster tagliolini; risotto with prawns and champagne; Gragnano paccheri with truffled carbonara sauce; and ravioli stuffed with sea bass. Second courses are no less tempting. Indulge in a wok of suckling pig with crispy vegetables; lamb chops with artichokes and celeriac; beef fillet with porcini mushrooms; tuna steak with sesame seeds and vegetables; fillet of sea bream baked with crisp vegetables, and a plateau royal of grilled shrimp and prawns. The elegant location is also an ideal spot for an after-dinner cocktail, with stunning views of the city and live music. Free Wi-Fi. 10% discount for WHERE Rome readers.

4 FIUMI

�Piazza Navona, 37. Tel 066864028. ristorante-4fiumi.it

Located in Piazza Navona, arguably the most beautiful square in Rome and perhaps the world, 4 Fiumi offers diners the chance to enjoy traditional Italian cuisine while gazing at breathtaking masterpieces of baroque art. With dozens of tables both inside and out, 4 Fiumi is the ideal venue for a large celebration, a business lunch, or an intimate dinner, and with the combination of top-notch cuisine and the open-air museum that is Piazza Navona, any meal here is guaranteed to be unforgettable. The menu is Mediterranean, serving fresh fish, select cuts of meat, classic pasta dishes, seafood antipasti and other tempting appetizers, homemade desserts, and, of course, seemingly endless varieties of Roman-style pizza. Every dish is made with strictly fresh ingredients. The ample wine list features only the finest national labels. Open daily,11am–11pm.

VITTI IN LUCINA

�Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina, 33. Tel 066876304. caffetteriavittiroma.it This pleasant outdoor location in picturesque Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina is the perfect spot for enjoying a delicious gelato or a homemade pastry while watching Rome’s most fashionable people stroll by. Your gluttonous dreams can come true thanks to the professionalism of Onorio Vitti, who holds fast to his century-old family tradition of sublime pastrymaking. The delicious cakes and desserts are prepared according to recipes handed down through generations of the Vitti family; try the famous Sacher Torte, Sicilian cannoli, cassata, chocolate rolls, and much more. Or simply enjoy a coffee or a tea in one of the most elegant squares in Rome. Besides being a gelateria and a pasticceria, Vitti is also a restaurant, offering a select menu of delicious homemade pastas and Roman specialties, with a small but well-chosen wine cellar. All credit cards accepted. Open daily, 6am–11pm.

A D V E R T I S I N G PA G E

DINING Open daily, 12noon–11pm. Via dei Montecatini, 12. Tel 066791160/066798590. (€€) Map E3 ristoranteilfalchetto.it

Fortunato al Pantheon (Roman) Elegant restaurant serving traditional Roman cuisine with a glorious view of the Pantheon. Wide array of fresh seafood, pasta, and meat dishes. Menu highlights include tonnarelli cacio e pepe, rigatoni all’amatriciana, and Roman-style steak. For dessert try the tiramisù with mascarpone and wild berries.

Open Mon–Sat, 12:30–4pm and 6:45–11:30pm. Via del Pantheon, 55. Tel 066792788. All credit cards accepted. (€€€) Map D3 ristorantefortunato.it

casserole), stuffed rabbit with new potatoes, olive ascolane, paccheri cacio e pepe with zucchini flowers and fava beans, or fresh tagliolini with white truffles. Via Panama, 2. Tel 068551379. (€€€) Off Map ristorantealceppo.it

Duke’s (International) American-style restaurant that skillfully combines Mediterranean and more exotic flavors to create innovative dishes made with quality ingredients from all over the world, such as Argentine angus, Pacific Ahi tuna, and foie gras from Dordogne. The wine list is Californian and the service is friendly and easy-going. Open Tue–Sun, 6:30pm–12midnight; bar until 2am (10pm Sun). Viale Parioli, 200. Tel 0680662455. All credit cards accepted. (€€€) Off Map dukes.it

QUIRINAL & TREVI FOUNTAIN Rinaldi al Quirinale (Italian)

Jazz Café (Italian/Pizzeria) Italian restaurant serving a variety of handcrafted wood-oven-made pizza, as well as classics of the Roman tradition such as seafood salad and tonnarelli alla gricia. Cozy interior and lively nightlife. Try the homemade tiramisù for dessert.

Open every day,11am–12midnight. Via Giuseppe Zanardelli, 12. Tel 0668210119. (€€) Map D3 jazzcaferoma.com

Ristorante Da Navona (Italian) Inviting restaurant with a large outdoor seating area with views of Piazza Navona. Stop in for a glass of wine or to sample the traditional Italian dishes on the menu. The kitchen also offers many classic Roman dishes and pizzas with a variety that is capable of satisfying any palate. Open every day, 10am–1am. Piazza Navona, 67. Tel 0668806827. (€€) Map D3 ristorantepizzerianavona.com

Ristorante Pizzeria Pasquino (Pizzeria) Enjoy outdoor seating with a picturesque view and a slice of handmade pizza, or explore the wide array of quality seafood,s meat, or pasta dishes, including tonnarelli with salt cod or Jewish-style artichokes.

Dessert menu changes daily. Open every day, 11am– 12midnight. Piazza di Pasquino, 1. Tel 066893043. (€€) Map C3 ristorantepizzeriapasquino.com

Su Da Francesco (Italian) This elegant restaurant on the upper floor of a 17th-century building offers a true epicurean experience, with skillfully crafted dishes made with high-quality ingredients and a vast array of French and Italian wines, designed to be paired.

Open daily, 7pm–12:30am. Via del Corallo, 3.

Tel 0687725655. All credit cards accepted. (€€€) Map C/D3 dafrancesco.it/da-francesco-su

PARIOLI & FLAMINIO Al Ceppo (Regional) Excellent regional cuisine from Le Marche served in an elegant, refined atmosphere. Try specialties like padellotto di mare (seafood 46 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

This elegant restaurant offers the best of surf and turf. Their specialties include dishes made with such exquisite ingredients as white and black truffles, porcini mushrooms, lobster, and oysters. 3500+ wine labels. Quick and friendly service. Open daily, 12noon–3pm and 7–11:30pm. Via Parma, 11a. Tel 0647825171.

Credit cards accepted. (€€€) Map D3 rinaldialquirinale.com

Sacro e Profano 11 (Italian) Top-notch cuisine in a deconsecrated church dating to the Middle Ages. Chef Roberto Scarnecchia helms the kitchen, whipping up tempting creations from traditional Roman cuisine, as well as more unusual options like cavatelli with n’duja, mezze maniche with guanciale and chestnuts, grilled salmon in a saffron and leek sauce; and tuna steak with balsamic vinegar and Tropea onions in a sweetand-sour sauce. Open daily, 11:30am–11:30pm.

Via dei Maroniti, 29. Tel 0694894627. (€€) Map E3 sacroeprofano11.it

cuisine and seasonal specials. Also offers after-dinner cocktail, accompanied by live music and panoramic views of the city. Candlelit dinners make it an ideal date spot. Available to book for private events. Piazza Trinità dei Monti, 15. Tel 0669921135. (€€€) Map E2 ristorantepiazzadispagna.com

TESTACCIO, TRASTEVERE & MONTEVERDE Da Teo (Roman) Traditional dining in a gorgeous piazza. Romanstyle artichokes, spaghetti with lobster, fresh pasta with ricciola sauce, and grilled swordfish with capers and tomato. Relaxed and efficient service. Book ahead. Piazza dei Ponziani, 7a. Tel 065818355. (€€) Map D4trattoriadateo.it

Felice a Testaccio (Roman) This family-run Testaccio institution has proudly been preparing traditional Roman cuisine since 1936. They serve classic Roman pasta favorites, as well as many meat dishes (particularly offal), and plenty of homemade desserts. The wine cellar stocks more than 200 Italian and international labels. Open daily, 12:30–3pm and 7:30pm– 12midnight. Via Mastro Giorgio, 29. Tel 065746800. (€€/€€€) Credit cards accepted.

Map D6 feliceatestaccio.it

Gelateria Tony (Gelateria) Newly renovated and enlarged, this historic gelateria in the Monteverde neighborhood is a favorite with locals, who have been enjoying their decadent concoctions for over fifty years. Famous for creamy vanilla gelato topped with fresh strawberries and gelato “spaghetti” smothered with nutella, whipped cream, and a myriad of toppings. Open Tue–Sun, 8:30am–9pm. Viale dei Colli Portuensi, 335. Tel 0658201002. Off Map gelateriatony.it

Ivo a Trastevere (Pizza)

SPANISH STEPS

A favorite among locals and celebrities. The pizza is thin and crunchy, and the menu includes sweet pizza with nutella. Via San Francesco a Ripa, 158.

Tel 065817082. (€/€€) Map D5

Antica Osteria Croce

Le Mani in Pasta (Italian)

Warm, inviting restaurant serving the classic recipes of the traditional Roman cuisine. Choose from pasta, pizza, pinsa, meat, or fish dishes, each prepared with fresh, local ingredients.

The ample wine cellar favors local labels from the Castelli Romani region. Cocktails, tea, and hot chocolate also available. 10% discount for WHERE Rome readers. Free Wifi. Open every day, 10:30am–11:30pm. Via della Croce, 38. Tel 066780355. (€€/€€€) Map E2

Il Gabriello (Italian) Traditional cuisine by Signora Livia, Vincenzo, and Chef Gabriele in a cozy and intimate setting.

Highlights of the menu include bombolotti pasta with shrimp and porcini mushrooms, fish all’acqua pazza (cooked in seawater), and a wide array of Roman specialties. Vast wine list.

Open Mon–Sat, 7pm–12:30am. Via Vittoria, 51.

Tel 0669940810. Credit cards accepted. (€€/€€€) Map D2 ilgabriello.com

Trinità de Monti (Italian) Located at the top of the Spanish Steps, this elegant restaurant serves traditional Italian

Traditional Roman and Italian fare made with fresh, seasonal ingredients and served in a cozy yet buzzing atmosphere. Pair the chef’s creations with a bottle from the vast wine list. Open Tue–Sun, 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11:30pm. Via dei Genovesi, 37. Tel 065816017. All credit cards accepted except Diner’s. (€€) Map D5 lemaniinpasta.com

Roma Sparita (Roman) This restaurant, with a cozy interior and lively outdoor space, is famed for its creamy tagliolini cacio e pepe, served in a bowl made of cheese.

Other highlights: oxtails in tomato sauce and pizza. Open Tue–Sat, 12:30–2:30pm and 7:30– 11:30pm. Sun lunch only. Piazza S. Cecilia, 24. Tel 065800757. Credit cards accepted (€/€€) Map D5

TRIDENT Antica Norcineria Al Civico 24 (Food Market) This gourmet Italian food shop and delicatessen features products that originate from the famed town of Norcia in Umbria, a village that is

The best dishes of Roman cuisine in a warm, convivial atmosphere.

Close to Termini Station and Santa Maria Maggiore.

OPEN ALL DAY LONG Via Cavour, 61 - Tel 0648913935 info@centrorestaurant.it - www.centrorestaurant.it

MEDITERRANEAN EXPERIENCE Il Giardino Romano Via del Portico d’Ottavia,18 – Tel 0668809661– ilgiardinoromano.it Located in the heart of the Jewish ghetto, this charming restaurant is a garden abundant with fresh, authentic flavors. Try Roman classics like Jewish-style fried artichokes, barbecued and grilled meats, fried salt cod, pasta cacio e pepe, oxtail stew, trippa alla romana, and lamb scottadito. Or try something more unusual like vegetarian lasagne or artichoke carpaccio. The pasta is always homemade and delicious, and the meat and fish are as fresh as can be. Or try one of their delectable Roman pizzas. End with the heavenly crème caramel or crème brulée.

On request, the kitchen will also prepare Egyptian specialties. The ample wine list makes choosing a chore at this lovely and original restaurant. For a romantic, candlelit dinner, request to be seated in the quaint and intimate garden. Open every day except Wed, 12noon–3:30pm and 7–11:30pm.

Antica Norcineria al Civico 24 Via della Scrofa, 24 – Tel 0668192695 – anticanorcineria.com This delightful oasis of Italian delicacies, located on one of Rome’s most historic streets, Via della Scrofa—just a few steps from famous Piazza Navona—boasts an ancient culinary tradition just waiting to be discovered. Here you can explore authentic flavors of Norcia through tastings and an excellent glass of red or white wine. You can also purchase the tempting delicacies to enjoy later. Choose from a variety of fresh and seasonal products, including, in particular, goodies from Norcia, a small medieval town in Umbria famous for its sausage and cured meats, as well as Italian specialties like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Corallina salami, and wine from Barolo, Chianti, and Brunello di Montalcino. Antica Norcineria constantly stocks its shelves with the precious flavors and rich aromas that tell the story of its territory and delicious history. Open daily, 10am–9pm. All credit cards accepted.

Eleonora D’Arborea Corso Trieste, 23 – Tel 0644250943 – ristoranteeleonoradarborea.com A delicious slice of Sardinia right here in Rome, this elegant yet homey restaurant serves up the traditions and flavors of the island with skill and care. The vast array of antipasti include carpacci, mullet roe with cream of wild cardoons, shellfish crudité (oysters, hard clams, shrimp, sea urchins, and scampi), and balsamic vinegar tuna. But pasta is the true star of the menu. Try the classic linguine with mildly spicy lobster; paccheri pasta with amberjack and cherry tomatoes; potato and sea bass ravioli in mint sauce; or fettuccine with calamari, zucchini flowers, and saffron. In terms of second courses, the entire Mediterranean is yours for the taking: angler fish, John Dory fish, amberjack, blue spotted bream, sea bream, sea bass, swordfish, lobster, and more. Don’t miss the fried prawns with the chef’s own mayonnaise. For dessert, try the seadas (a traditional Sardinian pastry) accompanied by homemade Filu Ferro & Mirto liqueur. Wine cellar favors Tuscan labels. Open Tue–Sun, 12:30–3:30pm and 7:30–11:30pm. All credit cards accepted.

La Taverna del Ghetto Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 8 – Tel 0668809771 – latavernadelghetto.com Tradition, authenticity, and freshness are the notable characteristics of La Taverna del Ghetto, a welcoming restaurant in the heart of Rome’s Jewish Ghetto offering gourmets a tempting and tasty menu featuring the best dishes of the Judaeo-Roman cuisine. Among the classic or deliciously creative proposals on the menu, don’t miss carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichokes), the gastronomic symbol of the neighborhood; stuffed Roman zucchini; fried salt cod filet; fettuccine with braised meat; a kosher version of carbonara (with dried meat, smoked veal, and zucchini); salt cod with cherry tomatoes, raisins and pine nuts; veggie burgers; and Kosher meat kebabs. For dessert try the exquisite torta della nonna accompanied by a glass of Middle Eastern mint iced tea. The wine list offers a wide selection of Italian and Israeli labels, perfect for complementing any course.

Reservations advised. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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MEDITERRANEAN EXPERIENCE Antica Osteria Croce Via della Croce, 38 – Tel +39066780355 This quaint restaurant near the Spanish Steps is a real find in a neighborhood that can otherwise prove pricey. Antica Osteria Croce boasts delicious food that is not expensive but always good. They serve the traditional Roman dishes such as amatriciana, carbonara, cacio e pepe, and freshly baked pizza and pinsa. The wide array of second courses includes lamb chops, Italian T-bone steak, and locally caught fresh fish. The ample wine list favors labels from the nearby Castelli Romani hills, mostly proudly 0 km, along with some of the most important Italian reds and whites from across the peninsula. But everyone’s tastes are accounted for, whether you prefer an Aperol Spritz, a pot of tea, or even hot chocolate. Free Wifi.

10% discount for WHERE Rome readers.

Open every day, 10:30am–11:30pm.

Antica Trattoria Da Luigi Piazza Sforza Cesarini, 23/24 – Tel 066865946/0668805463 trattoriadaluigi.com In Piazza Sforza Cesarini (near the austere palazzo that once belonged to the Borgia family), Restaurant Da Luigi is constantly put to the test by lovers of Roman cuisine, and passes with flying colors thanks to their successful Mediterranean and seafood variations. Many famous faces at the tables set up on the piazza fight for the first spot in line to enjoy the house specialties such as the excellent octopus carpaccio, spaghetti with clams, baked turbot with potatoes, and traditional Roman dishes like tripe, lamb, and ossobuco. Desserts are classic and tempting (tiramisù, panna cotta, and wild strawberries with ice cream) and the service is truly exemplary for its efficiency and kindness, notwithstanding the fact that the place is always full.

This is a restaurant where you will come and return willingly. Open Tue–Sun, 12noon–12 midnight. Closed Mon. All credit cards accepted.

La Reginella Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 61/65 – Tel 0668801607 Located in the Jewish quarter, La Reginella is dedicated to the rediscovery of the ancient culinary traditions of the area, bringing to the table the classic dishes of Jewish-Roman cuisine, revisited with a modern and gourmet twist. Roman favorites such as amatriciana and carbonara are complemented by recipes from the Jewish-Roman tradition, such as carciofi alla giudia, allowing diners to savor the oldest culinary traditions of Italy’s capital. La Reginella also offers crunchy, thin-crusted Roman-style pizza, made with natural 72-hour rising dough and highly prized ingredients. With the backdrop of the ancient Portico of Octavia, La Reginella offers the opportunity to taste unique, genuine flavors in a historic and timeless atmosphere. The pastry chef offers authentic, flavorful, and expertly prepared classic desserts like Crostata Frangipane and Torta Saint Honorè. Open every day, 11am–11:30pm. All credit cards accepted.

Papa Rex Via Aurelia, 87 (St. Peter’s/Vatican) – Tel 06634998 – paparex.it Located just a few steps from the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican, Papa Rex has been serving delicious cuisine since 1991. The restaurant boasts four themed rooms, each decorated in the classic Roman style, that are ideal for any occasion, whether it be a casual dinner or a formal celebration. The gastronomic philosophy of Papa Rex exudes respect for traditional local recipes, so you can be sure you are getting the real thing when you order famous Roman dishes like carbonara, amatriciana, saltimbocca alla romana, or stewed artichokes, not to mention the plethora of meat and seafood options. Pair your meal with a bottle of local red or white from Papa Rex’s ample wine cellar. Finish your meal with a classic dessert like tiramisù or lemon sorbet. Papa Rex keeps traditional Italian and Roman cuisine at the center of their specialties, while using the highest quality ingredients from the countryside around Rome. All credit cards accepted. Open every day, 12noon–11pm.

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MEDITERRANEAN EXPERIENCE Piccolo Abruzzo

Via Sicilia, 237 – Tel 0642820176 – piccoloabruzzo.it This inviting restaurant, in business since 1974, has recently reinvented itself under a new management team, power duo Massimiliano and Domenica. In the restaurant business practically since birth, Massimiliano has helmed various establishments around the city, culminating in nearly four decades of experience in the industry. His restaurants have gained popularity for the quality of food as well as the service, making then some of the best-loved in the city, and now he has brought his experience to Piccolo Abruzzo. All the ingredients and products served, including the wines, are of exceptional quality, selected from trusted local suppliers. The cured meats and cheeses, tempting first courses, local meats, fresh produce and homemade desserts are all subject to rigorous standards. The ambiance is intimate, cozy, and welcoming, with a rustic interior featuring exposed brick walls. Its splendid setting is right in the heart of Rome, just steps from glamorous Via Veneto.

Open Mon–Sat. All credit cards accepted. Reservations recommended.

Trattoria da Teo Piazza dei Ponziani, 7a – Tel 065818355 – trattoriadateo.it Eating in enchanting Piazza dei Ponziani on the quiet side of Trastevere means satisfying the eye even before the palate. From typical Roman cuisine to well-presented marinated suggestions, your taste buds will be equally gratified. For starters, try mushroom salad, Roman-style artichokes, fried monkfish, or Catalan salmon. For a first course, try fettuccine with porcini mushrooms, spaghetti with lobster, fresh pasta with ricciola sauce or spaghetti with anchovies and pecorino cheese. Taste the grilled swordfish with capers and tomatoes, tuna steak with balsamic vinegar, stewed oxtail, or baby lamb cutlets. Tiramisù or fresh strawberries with mascarpone are succulent dessert options. In addition to all this, Da Teo offers a commendable wine list with a variety of labels, as well as a relaxed and super-efficient service. Reservations are essential. Open Mon–Sat, 1pm–3pm, 8pm–11:30pm. Closed Sunday.

L’Arcangelo Via G. G. Belli, 59 – Tel 063210992 – ristorantelarcangelo.com The subtly vintage atmosphere of this charming restaurant provides an interesting juxtaposition to its daring and innovative cuisine.The restaurant’s aim is to overcome the limitations of tradition to find new sources of inspiration and creativity.

A few of the menu’s highlights include pecorino fondue with caramelized pears, cold tomato soup with Roman ricotta dumplings, rabbit with sweet and sour vegetables, seared tuna in a celery and candied orange sauce, and beef cutlet with sea salt, beer, and rosemary. Traditional Roman dishes are also on offer, such as the fantastic classic amatriciana or mint-infused tripe with pecorino cheese. The dessert menu boasts many temptations, including chocolate cake with pears and hot peppers, and chestnut mousse with hazelnut cream and persimmon. All credit cards accepted. Closed Saturday at lunch and all day Sunday.

Roma Sparita Piazza S. Cecilia, 24 – Tel 065800757 – romasparita.com Roma Sparita’s delicious cacio e pepe, served in a bowl made of parmesan cheese, can be described as the quintessence of Roman cuisine. This iconic Trastevere establishment is lively and welcoming, serving a vast array of great Roman dishes.

Try their Jewish-style artichokes, fried cod and zucchini flowers, bucatini all’amatriciana, or pasta with oxtail sauce. Second courses include tripe alla romana and an exceptional tagliata steak served on a layer of arugula with raw artichokes or porcini mushrooms. The pizzas are made in the wood-burning oven and homemade desserts include apple pie served warm with vanilla ice cream. Well-stocked wine cellar. This is the perfect place if you want to discover the flavors of the past. Open Tue–Sat, 12:30–2:30pm and 7:30–11:30pm; Sun, 12:30–2:30pm. Credit cards accepted. Reservations strongly recommended.

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renowned for, above all, its sausages and cured meats. Also serves tastings of cured meats and cheeses. Open daily, 10am–9pm. Via della Scrofa, 24. Tel 0668192695. All credit cards accepted. (€€) Map D3 anticanorcineria.com

Babette (Italian) Exquisite restaurant on secluded, leafy Via Margutta with a menu that is updated as the seasons change with innovative, original recipes.

The delightful inner courtyard offers shaded tables for romantic candlelit meals, and rotating works by young contemporary artists hang on the walls inside. Open Tue–Thu, 12:30–3pm and 7–10:30pm; Fri, Sat, 12:30–3pm and 7–11pm; Sun, 12:30–3pm and 7–10pm. Via Margutta, 1d. Tel 063211559. Map D1/2 babetteristorante.it

Osteria Margutta (Italian) Creative dishes like tonnarelli Margutta, penne in vodka and salmon sauce, pork with chestnuts, or tuna fillet with radicchio, with a private art collection as a backdrop. 100+ wine labels. Open Mon–Sat, 12:30pm–3pm and 7:30pm–12midnight.

Via Margutta, 82. Tel 063231025. V, MC, and JCB accepted. (€€/€€€) Map D2 osteriamargutta.it

Vitti in Lucina (Café) Outdoor seating on a lovely piazza. Enjoy a gelato, sacher torte, cannolo, chocolate roll, or a traditional Roman meal of seafood, pasta, or meat. Open daily, 11am–11pm. Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina, 33. Tel 066876304. Piazza Capranica 75/55. Tel 0669921720 Credit cards accepted. (€/€€) Map D3

VATICAN & PRATI L’Arcangelo (Italian) Innovative cuisine served in a quaint, vintage setting. Classic Italian favorites as well as unusual dishes like rabbit with sweet and sour vegetables and seared tuna in a celery and candied orange sauce. Closed Sat at lunch and all day Sun. Via G. G. Belli, 59. Tel 063210992. (€€/ €€€) Map C/D2

La Cucaracha (Mexican) Enjoy Mexican specialties such as enchiladas, guacamole, tacos, burritos, chili con carne, chimichangas, fajitas, and homemade corn tortillas. The family of owners hails from Acapulco and the proof is in the margaritas. Open Mon–Sat, 6:30pm–12midnight. Closed Sun. Via Mocenigo, 10a. Tel 0639746373. Credit cards accepted. (€€) Map A2 lacucaracha.it

Les Etoiles (Mediterranean) Prestigious restaurant and cocktail bar just a few steps from the Vatican. Sip a glass of wine or a cocktail on the spectacular rooftop terrace with views of St. Peter’s Basilica and Castel Sant’Angelo. Open 10am–2am. Via Vitelleschi, 34. Tel 066873233. All credit cards accepted. (€€€/€€€€) Map B/C2 atlantehotels.com

Papa Rex (Roman) Quality of ingredients, respect for culinary tradition, and courtesy of the staff are the points of pride of this welcoming restaurant. The first courses include such well-loved classics as rigatoni all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara, fettuccine with porcini mushrooms, and gnocchi with mussels and pecorino. Mains include Florentine steak, saltimbocca alla romana, or veal piccata with Amalfi lemons. Open every day, 10am–11pm. Via Aurelia, 87. Tel 06634998. (€€) Map A/B3 paparex.it www.wheretraveler.com 51

DINING Siciliainbocca (Regional) In this elegant restaurant located near the Vatican area, you can taste scrumptious Sicilian specialties like warm octopus salad, maccaroncelli alla Norma, spaghetti with sea urchins, linguine with shrimp and cherry tomatoes and eggplant parmesan, with cannoli or cassata for dessert. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Via Faà di Bruno, 26. Tel 0637358400. All credit cards accepted. (€€/€€€) Map B1 siciliainbocca.com

Taki (Japanese) Tasting menus–sushi or sashimi in Moriawase style–as well as an à la carte menu, in a minimalist style. Offers unique dishes like gohanmono, oshizushi, or grilled meats with Asian sauces.

Open daily, 12:30–3:15pm for lunch; 4–7pm for tea; 7:30pm–12:15am for dinner. Via Marianna Dionigi, 56. Tel 063201750. Credit cards accepted. (€€/€€€) Map D2

Famous signature dishes from all parts of India carefully selected for you. The freshness and the quality of the ingredients make each and every flavor work together to create wonderful combinations of dishes from our Indian Kitchen.

These are an expression of the care and love our Chefs have for the craft of pure Indian cooking

VENETO & PORTA PIA Bottega Italia (Italian) Large space with themed stations dedicated to every aspect of Italian cuisine: pizza, pasta, street food, grilled and cured meats, pastries, gelato, smoothies, wine, craft beer, and espresso. Graze for your favorite foods, or enjoy a full meal. All produce and ingredients held to high standards of freshness and quality. Open daily, 7am–2am.

Via V. Veneto, 15/23. Tel 0642390752. (€€) Map E/F2 bottegaitaliaroma.it

Edoardo (Italian) Italian and Abruzzese specialties featuring seasonal produce, fresh fish, and steak from Val di Chiana. Live music on weekends. 50+ wine labels.

Open Mon–Sat, 1–3:30pm and 7:30pm–1am. Via Lucullo, 2. Tel 06486428. Credit cards accepted. (€€€) Map D4 ristorante-edoardo.it

Eleonora D’Arborea (Regional) Elegant restaurant offering the traditional flavors of Sardinia. Choose from their wide selection of fresh seafood courses and don’t miss the seadas (traditional Sardinian pastries) for dessert. Pair your meal with a bottle from their Tuscany-heavy wine cellar. Open Tue–Sun, 12:30–3:30pm and 7:30–11:30pm. Corso Trieste, 23. Tel 0644250943.

Map H1

Piccolo Abruzzo (Regional) This cozy restaurant, seating only 45 people, specializes in the hearty cuisine from the region of of Abruzzo. The traditional furnishings, exposed brick walls, and warm colors make this a welcoming establishment, and each dish is prepared with love according to ancient recipes. Open Mon–Sat for lunch and dinner. Via Sicilia, 237. Tel 0642820176. (€€) Map F2

Viva (Seafood) Bright and charming seafood restaurant taking diners on a culinary journey through the tastes and traditions of the Mediterranean. Their specialty is raw fish, but the generous menus also features classic Roman pasta dishes and a small selection of meat entrées. The wine cellar stocks over 300 national labels, from both small and large producers. Open Mon–Sat, 12noon–3pm and 6–11pm. Via Sicilia, 47. Tel 066786115.(€€/€€€) Map F2 ristoranteviva.com 52 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

ENTERTAINMENT Marvelous Martha Piano legend Martha Argerich electrifies the Eternal City this month with a performance at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Alexandra Bruzzese reports.

Ask any classical music aficionado to rank the greatest artists of the past 50 years and Martha Argerich will surely top the list. Critics feel similarly; The New York Times has called her “one of the greatest pianists in the world;” and Argerich is ‘’dazzling” and “extraordinary in every respect” according to The Guardian. Conductor Gábor Takács-Nagy, meanwhile, once wrote in his programme notes that Argerich transforms into “both a tiger and a poet on stage.”

Argerich’s journey to fame began at just six years old, when her mother brought her to see a performance by pianist Claudio Arrau in her native Argentina. It was Arrau’s interpretation of Beethoven’s Concerto for Piano, no. 4 that first captivated her, and she began lessons shortly after. A mere two years later, the prodigy gave her debut concert, and in 1955 the family uprooted from Buenos Aires and moved to Austria to nurture Martha’s breathtaking

talent for the piano. The move turned out to be the right one; Argerich’s European career flourished as a teenager, and at 24 she swept the International Chopin Piano Competition and debuted at Lincoln Center, all within the same year. Recordings of works by Chopin, Brahms, Ravel, Prokofiev, and Liszt followed, propelling Argerich onto the international stage. Throughout her career, she has struggled with the limelight and is notoriously wary of the press, occasionally cancelling performances last minute.

Thus, every appearance is met by audiences with equal parts delight and relief.

On 1 and 2 November, Argerich teams up with conductor Sir Antonio Pappano and the prestigious Orchestra di Santa Cecilia to perform Chopin’s Concerto for Piano, no.1 at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Also on the bill are Weber’s Euryanthe: Ouverture and Schumann’s Symphony no. 2. Tickets and details at santacecilia.it. www.wheretraveler.com 53

ENTERTAINMENT CINEMA Casa del Cinema Historic cinema located inside Villa Borghese park showing classic and new films and hosting themed film festivals. Open Mon–Fri, 9am–6pm.

Largo Marcello Mastroianni, 1. Tel 06423601.

Map E/F1 casadelcinema.it

Original Language Cinemas Films in their original language are unfortunately hard to come by in Rome. Check out these cinemas for authentic audio. Find updated showtimes for all original language films at romereview.com.

An Electric End to Romaeuropa

Alcazar—Via Merry del Val, 14. Tel 065880099.

(Tuesdays only) Map D5

Alva Noto and Ryuichi Sakamoto, a German electronic musician and Japanese pianist,

Multisala Barberini—Piazza Barberini, 24.

Tel 0642010392. Map F2

blending their distinct musical backgrounds to form one unique sound. Their collabo-

Nuovo Olimpia—Via in Lucina, 16g. Tel 06680099. Map D2/3 Nuovo Sacher—Largo Ascianghi, 1 (corner Via Induno). Tel 065818116. Map D5

composer, and singer, respectively, have been working together for almost two decades, rations include the Golden Globe-nominated score for The Revenant (2015), starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Tom Hardy. This month, they appear as one of the final acts in the annual Romaeuropa Festival, a multi-disciplinary contemporary performance event. In this one-night-only show, Sakamoto’s piano goes up against Noto’s electronic music to create a new sensory experience. Catch it on 25 November at the PDM.

CONCERT VENUES AND THEATERS Auditorium Conciliazione Elegant auditorium near the Vatican. 18 Nov: An Evening with Manuel Agnelli. Via della Conciliazione, 4. Tel 066832256. Map B2/3 auditoriumdellaconciliazione.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica (PDM) Major arts complex hosting important events, bringing international performers of varying genres, from dance and video art, to classical, rock, and jazz. 1 Nov: Radiodervish (Roma Jazz Festival). 2 Nov: Dianne Reeves (RJF). 4 Nov: An Evening with Andy McKee. 7 Nov: Park of Contemporary Music Ensemble Tonino Battista (Romaeuropa Festival 2019). 12 Nov: Glen Hansard. 16 Nov: Rickie Lee Jones. 18 Nov: PFM sings De André – Anniversary.

24 Nov: Fatoumata Diawara (Ref19). 24 Nov: Ryuchi Sakamoto and Noto (Ref19). 30 Nov: Roberto Ottaviano “Eternal Love” (RJF). Viale de Coubertin, 30. Tel 0680241281 Off Map auditorium.com

Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia One of Europe’s most prestigious classical music organizations, presenting world-class performers and conductors and their renowned orchestra and chorus. 1, 2 Nov: Martha Argerich interprets Chopin with the Santa Cecilia Orchestra. 10 Nov: Minimalist Dream House Quartet: Katia and Marielle Labeque, David Chalmin, and Bryce Dessner (Ref19). 15–17 Nov: Violinist Emmanuel Tjeknavorian plays Kachaturian with Juraj Valcuha conducting. 20 Nov: Pianist Beatrice Rana plays Chopin, Albéniz, and Stravinsky in recital. 21–23 Nov: David Afkhan conducts Brahms, Wagner, and Lindberg. 28, 30 Nov: Verdi’s Requiem under the baton of Mikko Franck. Viale de Coubertin, 30. Tel 0680241281. Off Map santacecilia.it

Casa del Jazz 20th-century villa located in Villa Osio park hosting jazz concerts and events, including live music and shows outdoors. This month it hosts performances of the Roma Jazz Festival. Viale di 54 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 2019

Porta Ardeatina, 55. Tel 0680241281. Off Map (See F6) casajazz.it

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti The classical and contemporary chamber music institution organizes concerts at the official venue of La Sapienza University. 9 Nov: Violinist Domenico Nordio and Pianist Mikhail Lidsky in concert. 12 Nov: Pianist Claire Huangci’s Rome debut. 19 Nov: Emerson String Quartet. 30 Nov: Violinist Gabriele Pieranunzi and Pianist Jin Ju with the Philharmonia Chamber Players.

Aula Magna. Piazzale Aldo Moro, 5. Off Map concertiiuc.it

Orion Club Live performance venue and disco hosting mostly rock concerts. 3 Nov: Italian rock band Lacuna Coil. 8 Nov: Italian rapper Lazza. 13 Nov: Christian metal band P.O.D. 30 Nov: ItalianFrench rapper Speranza. Viale John F. Kennedy, 52. Tel 0689013645. Off Map concertiiuc.it

Sala Casella Smaller alternative venue (and principal summer venue) of the Roman Philharmonic Academy. 10 Nov: Lyskamm Quartet performs Beethoven’s complete string quartets. 17 Nov: Pianist Stefano Andreatta plays Chopin and Rachmaninoff.

24 Nov: Final of the 40th Valentino Bucchi International Competition for composition. Via Flaminia, 118. Tel 063201752. Off Map (see D1) filarmonicaromana.org

Stadio Olimpico Rome’s major stadium hosts AS Roma and SS Lazio home games (soccer). 2 Nov: Roma vs.

Napoli. 7 Nov: Lazio vs. Celtic (European League).

10 Nov: Lazio vs. Lecce. 24 Nov: Roma vs.

Brescia. Via del Foro Italico. Off Map ticketone.it

Teatro Argentina Historic opera house now presenting plays as well as musical performances organized by the Roman Philharmonic Academy. Hosting some of the performances of the RomaEuropa Festival.

7 Nov: Cellist Sol Gabetta accompanied by

– S. Accetta

pianist Nelson Goerner in recital. 14 Nov: Pianist Filippo Gamba plays Beethoven, Brahms, and Debussy. 28 Nov: Pianist Piotr Anderszewski interprets Bach, Beethoven, and Schumann. Largo di Torre Argentina, 52. Tel 06684000311. Map D4 teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Brancaccio Large historic theater putting up vastly varied performances, from Shakespeare to modern drama to hit musicals. 18 Nov: Genesis tribute band The Musical Box performs.

19 Nov: “Amazing – The Magic Show” by Eleonora Princess of Magic. 27 Nov: “Human”

by Francesco Tesei. Via Merulana, 244. Tel 0680687231. Map G4 teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Costanzi The official opera house for the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma and their Ballet Corps. The spectacular interior and the talent residing within make for memorable performances. 8–16 Nov: Mozart’s “Idomeneo, King of Crete.” 22–24 Nov: Vittorio Montalti’s opera “Un Romano a Marte.” Piazza Beniamino Gigli, 1. Tel 06481601. Map F3 operaroma.it

Theater of Marcellus Augustus’ first-century BC theater is the magnificent backdrop for nightly classical music concerts. Via del Teatro Di Marcello, 44. Tel 0645615180. Map D/E4 tempietto.it

Teatro Olimpico Main venue for the Rome Philharmonic Academy, offering talented musicians and innovative performances. Also hosts modern dance. 2, 3 Nov: Balletto del Sud presents Swan Lake. 5–10 Nov: Sondheim’s musical “Sweeney Todd” (dialogue in Italian). Piazza Gentile da Fabriano, 17. Tel 063265991. Off Map teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Sistina Important theater hosting big names in Italian pop, folk, and rock, and Broadway-style revues, musicals, and plays. Until 1 Dec: “Mary Poppins,” the musical. Via Sistina, 129. Tel 064200711.

Map E2 ilsistina.it

PUBS AND BARS The Abbey Theatre (Navona) Irish pub with Guinness, Harp, and Kilkenny on tap, plus bottled beer and many Irish whiskeys.

Happy hour 11am–8pm. Open for lunch and dinner. €12 Fast menu: burger (150gr/50oz), fries, and a beer. Open Sun–Thu rs, 11am–2am; Fri– Sat until 3am. Via del Governo Vecchio, 51/53.

Tel 066861341. Map C/D3 abbey-rome.com

Fluid (Navona) This bar’s interior is a cosmic forest with metal vines along the stairway and a high-tech waterfall along the back wall. The aperitivo buffet is abundant, and the after-dinner scene is lively. Live sax, electric violin, and body painting on weekends; DJ on weeknights. Open daily, 6pm–3am. Via del Governo Vecchio, 46/47.

Tel 066832361. Map C/D3

Freni e Frizioni (Trastevere) Freni e Frizioni is one of the most popular meeting points on the Roman nightlife scene, where aperitivo and the end-of-evening cocktail have become rituals. The younger set flocks here until late at night, clogging the square in front of the bar to sip their drinks and listen to live music. Occupying what was once a mechanic’s garage, the interior is simply furnished with vintage items, but holds no shortage of charm. Open daily 6pm. Via del Politeama, 4/6. Tel 0645497499. Map D4

Il Sorpasso (Prati) Trendy and crowded, this is a go-to venue for great cocktails and select wines in a vintagestyle setting featuring exposed brick walls and warmly colored paint. The imaginative bartender mixes traditional and innovative ingredients, garnishing them ad hoc in containers, glasses, and vintage cups. Open Thu–Sun, 7.30am–1am. Via Properzio, 31/33.

Tel 0689024554. Map C2 ilsorpasso.info

Micca Club (Spanish Steps) A popular spot famous for burlesque performances, variety shows, DJ sets, concerts, and themed aperitivo nights. Mixologist Daniele Gentili specializes in experimental cocktails, and the bar has a distinct international character, recalling the chicest clubs in New York, London, and Paris. Via degli Avignonesi, 73. Open daily, 8pm. Showtime 9pm. Via dei Due Macelli, 75.

Tel 3922243672. Map E2 miccaclub.com

Mons (Navona) This one-of-a-kind cocktail bar is famous for its gothic-chic décor and anything-goes vibe.

Come early for a full meal, or stay late for the fabulous mixed drinks, mesmerizing mood music, and dark vibe. Open daily, 5pm–2am.

Via della Fossa, 16. Tel 066893426. Map C/D3 monscrew.com

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Scholars’ Lounge (Venezia) Quintessential Irish pub serving hot food all day.

Twenty-two beers on tap including Guinness, Kilkenny, Murphy’s, and Magners, and more than 250 whisky bottles lining the walls (Italy’s largest selection). Major sporting events shown on 17 HD screens. Live music, karaoke, pub quiz, and student nights weekly. Open daily, 11am–3:30am. Wheelchair access. Via del Plebiscito, 101b. Tel 0669202208. Map D/E3 scholarsloungerome.com

ROME CITY GUIDE

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Splendor of Centuries Past This season’s major exhibit at Galleria Borghese explores the extraordinary work of an 18th-century master. Tiffany Parks shares her preview.

In the mid-1700s, when Rome had already spent over a century as the unparalleled capital of the art world, the city began a process of renewal that sought to remake its image after the excesses of the baroque period.

Luigi Valadier, a goldsmith, furniture designer, and bronze founder, became one of the protagonists of Rome’s new style in the second half of the 18th century.

The exhibit showcases Valadier’s unrivaled technique in working with silver and bronze, which led him to develop his avantgarde style. This, in turn, broadened his artistic output from the creation of furniture to the realization of more ambitious and monumental enterprises, such as large bronze sculptures, often with Classical inspiration.

The Borghese Gallery is a fitting setting for this monographic show, as the villa was a hotbed for forward-looking art in the 18th century. In fact, Princes Camillo 56 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 2019

and Marcantonio Borghese were two of Valadier’s most generous patrons, for whom he designed furnishings and fireplaces, built monumental tableware, and composed entire rooms, thus infusing the entire villa with his unmistakable style.

The exhibit brings together a number of Valadier’s works, created for the leading noble families of Rome and beyond, with pieces on loan from prestigious museums across Europe, as well as drawings and designs of the same. Perhaps most remarkable is the bronze statue of St. John the Baptist, brought from the Baptistery of San Giovanni in Laterano for the first time in its history. The work, arguably the most important in Valadier’s oeuvre, is in the process of a thorough restoration, taking place at the gallery during the exhibition.

Visitors have the opportunity to observe the restorers at work as they lovingly renovate this unique work of art.

See listing on page 65 for visiting information.

Treasures of Eternity

Through the artifacts that have been unearthed in Pompeii and Akortiri (the ancient destroyed city on the island of Santorini), one can take a rare peek into life in these fascinating locales over 2000 years ago. Pompeii and Santorini: An Eternity in One Day, a new exhibit on at the Scuderie del Quirinale, brings together pieces never seen by the public before, including frescoes, vases, statues, paintings, and gems that date all the way back to the Bronze Age. The discoveries on exhibit give visitors a glimpse into what life was like in these towns. See listing on p66.

– S. Accetta

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS TOP SIGHTS Castel Sant’Angelo Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, transformed into a fortress centuries later, now a museum. For the kids, there’s also an ancient weapon section.

LAST CHANCE Until 3 Nov: Bulgari, the History, the Dream. The luxury jewelry brand’s 100 years of history as recounted through their most iconic pieces. Until 11 Nov: Armor and Power in Renaissance Europe. Both exhibits also on display at Palazzo Venezia. Open daily, 9am–7:30pm.

Lungotevere Castello, 50. Tel 0632810. €4, €7 reduced. Map C2/3 castelsantangelo.com

Colosseum Begun in 70 AD, the Colosseum had seating for 50k and a sail-like roof covering. Until 29 Mar 2020: Carthage: The Immortal Myth. Open daily, 8:30am–7:15pm. Piazza del Colosseo. €12, €2 reduced, includes admission to Palatine Hill/ Roman Forum. Map F4

Pantheon The best preserved Roman monument, constructed by Agrippa in 27 BC and rebuilt

by Hadrian in 117–125 AD. In 608 AD, it was transformed into a Christian church. It contains the tombs of Vittorio Emanuele and Raphael. Open daily, 9am–7:30pm, Sun until 6pm. Piazza della Rotonda. Free. Map D3

Piazza Navona One of the most beautiful squares in Rome, it boasts Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers, which encompasses an Egyptian obelisk and a sculpture of four river gods. Free. Map D3

Quirinal Palace The center of Italian government is open to visitors by appointment. See Cappella Paolina, Sala dei Corazzieri, and works by Borromini, Reni, da Cortona, da Forlì, and more. Open Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun, 9:30am–4pm. Piazza del Quirinale. Tel 0639967557. Free. Guided tour: €10 (€5 reduced).

Map E3 palazzo.quirinale.it

Roman Forum/Palatine Hill The heart of Ancient Rome. See the Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, the House of the Vestal Virgins, and more. Climb the Palatine Hill to find the Domus Flavia and the Museo Palatino. A 1stcentury ramp that leads from the Roman Forum to the Palatine Hill is now officially open to the public following a six-year restoration project. LAST CHANCE Until 3 Nov: Kronos and Kairos: The Times of Contemporary Art. Via dei Fori Imperiali.

Tel 066990110. Open daily, 8:30am–7:15pm. €12, €2 reduced, includes admission to the Colosseum.

(House of Augustus: Tue–Sun, 9am –1:30pm, site included in €16 superticket). Map E/F4/5

Saint Peter’s Basilica The longest church in the world with art including Michelangelo’s Pietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino. No shorts, short skirts, or bare shoulders. Open daily, 7am–7pm.

Tel 0669883229. Free. Map B3

Sistine Chapel/Vatican Museums Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, Renaissance, and baroque art; works by Michelangelo, Raphael, Caravaggio, Canova, and many more. Open Mon–Sat, 9am–6pm, last entrance 4pm. Viale del Vaticano. Tel 0669883332. €17, €8 reduced.

(Free last Sun of each month, 9am–2pm.) Map B2 Advanced reservations at vatican.va.

Spanish Steps

MACRO

Climb the most famous staircase in the world for a fantastic view of the city and visit the stunning Trinità dei Monti church at the very top. Piazza di Spagna. Free. Map E2

Contemporary art museum located in former Peroni beer factory. Open Tue–Sun, 10am–8pm.

Via Nizza, 138. Tel 0667107900. Free. Map G1 museomacro.org

Trevi Fountain

Mattatoio di Roma

Nicola Salvi’s iconic fountain is newly restored and finally reopened to the public. Make sure to toss a coin or two into its famous waters. Piazza di Trevi.

Free. Map E3

Once the seat of MACRO’s Future branch, this contemporary art museum located in a former slaughterhouse highlights cutting-edge art. Open Tue–Sun, 4pm–10pm. Piazza O. Giustiniani, 4. €6, €5 reduced. Map D6 mattatoioroma.it

ARCHAEOLOGY Ara Pacis

The imposing altar devoted to peace is housed in Richard Meier’s museum, the first work of contemporary architecture in the historic center since the Fascist Era. Open daily, 9:30am–7:30pm.

Lungotevere in Augusta. Tel 0682059127. €10.50, €8.50 reduced. Map D2

Catacombs Miles of underground tunnels contain the remains and the graves of martyrs, saints, and ordinary people, buried in the early Christian era. Via Appia Antica. Prices vary. Off Map

Baths of Caracalla Monumental 3rd-century bath complex, once the center of Roman civic, social, and political life, built

by Emperor Caracalla. Learn the ancient techniques for heating water and imagine how it looked before it was stripped of its marble and mosaics. Via delle Terme di Caracalla, 52. Open Tue–Sat, 9am–7:15pm; Mon 9am–2pm. €8, €4 reduced. Map F6

Trajan’s Markets The semicircular market was ancient Rome’s mall and an office building. The site also houses an archaeology museum, and occasional contemporary installations. Via IV Novembre, 94.

Tel 066790048. Open daily, 9:30am–7:30pm. €16, €14 reduced. Map E4

ART GALLERIES & EXHIBITION SPACES Chiostro del Bramante Exhibition space housed in Bramante’s cloister of Santa Maria della Pace’s church. It hosts temporary exhibits by important international artists. Until 23 Feb 2020: Bacon, Freud, and the School of London.

Works from the Tate. Open Mon–Fri, 10am–8pm; Sat, Sun until 9pm. Via della Pace. Tel 0668809098. €14, €12 reduced. Map C/D3

Galleria Borghese Arguably the most beautiful museum in the city, it includes works by Bernini, Correggio, Titian, Canova, Raphael, and Caravaggio, as well marble sculptural works from antiquity. Until 20 Feb 2020: Luigi Valadier: Splendor in 18th-century Rome. Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5. Tel 0632810. Open Tue–Sun, 8:30am–7:30pm. €13, €6.50 reduced. Map F1 galleriaborghese.it

Galleria Doria Pamphilj A rich collection of works by major Italian artists including Titian, Raphael, Correggio, Caravaggio, Guercino, Reni, and Bernini, all located in a glorious masion. The audio guide was recorded by living members of the Pamphilj family who grew up in the palace. Open daily, 9am–7pm. Via del Corso, 305. Tel 066797323. €12, €8 reduced. Map E3 doriapamphilj.it

MAXXI Museum of 21st-century art showcasing latest trends in art and architecture. NEW From 27 Nov: Exhibit of the works of Italian architect Gio Ponti.

Until 22 Dec: Elisabetta Catalano (photography).

Until 31 Dec: Alberto Garutti’s public art project set in Piazza del Popolo. Until 12 Jan 2020: Maria Lai: Altan, Pimpa, Cipputi, and other thinkers. Until 26 Jan 2020: Contemporary Italian painter Enzo Cucchi. Until 8 March 2020: Exhibition dedicated to the spiritual matter of art. Open Tue–Sun, 11am–7pm (Sat until 10pm). Via Guido Reni, 4a. Tel 064824184. €12, €9 reduced, kids under 14 free.

Off Map maxxi.art

National Gallery of Ancient Art at Palazzo Barberini This baroque palace is home to the larger portion of the country’s national art collection, including Raphael’s Fornarina and works by Holbein, Bronzino, Caravaggio, and more. Until 6 Jan 2020: Michelangelo in Color: Marcello Venusti, Lelio Orsi, Marco Pino, Jacopino del Conte. Open Tue–Sun, 8:30am–7pm. Via delle Quattro Fontane, 13. Tel 064824184. €12, €2 reduced, kids under 18 free. Map F3 barberinicorsini.org

National Gallery of Ancient Art at Palazzo Corsini This lovely noble palace houses part of the country’s national art collection, and is decorated with frescoes and trompe l’oeils. The collection includes works by Guercino, Carraci, Rubens, Fra Angelico, and Caravaggio. Open Wed–Mon, 8:30am–7pm. Via della Lungara, 10. Tel 066874845. €12, €2 reduced, kids under 18 free. Map C4 barberinicorsini.org

National Gallery of Modern Art (GNAM) Largest collection of Italian art from the 19th and 20th centuries. LAST CHANCE Until 3 Nov: Joint is out of Time. Until 12 Jan 2020: Mo(nu)mentum: Robert Morris 2015–2018. Viale delle Belle Arti, 131. Tel 06322981. €10, €5 reduced. Map E1 lagallerianazionale.com

Palazzo delle Esposizioni (PalaExpo) Imposing 19th-century building by Pio Piacentini hosting contemporary art and photography exhibits. Until 6 Jan 2020: Evasion Techniques.

Subversive Strategy and the Derision of Power in the Hungarian Avant Garde in the 1960s and ‘70s. Also: Sublime Anatomies. Exhibit of objects and documents of immense historical, artistic, and scientific importance illustrating the history of the observation of the human body. Also: The Mechanics of Monsters: From Carlo Rambaldi to Makinarium. Also: Katy Couprie: Crazy Dictionary of the Body. Exhibit inspired by the French author/artist’s eponymous book. Open Tue–Sun, 10am–8pm; Fri, Sat until 10:30pm. Via Nazionale, 194. Tel 0639967500. €10, €8 reduced. Map F3 palazzoesposizioni.it www.wheretraveler.com 57

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS d’Arpino, Guercino, Caravaggio, and more.

LAST CHANCE Until 3 Nov: Luca Signorelli and Rome: Oblivion and Rediscoveries. Until 26 Jan 2020: Rediscovered Art: An exhibit of impressive archeological finds celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Arma Carabinieri’s Cultural Heritage Protection mission. Open daily, 9:30am–7:30pm. Piazza del Campidoglio, 1. Tel 0639967800. €15, €13 reduced. Map E4 museicapitolini.org

Carlo Bilotti Museum

Les s ons f rom Leonardo

Five hundred years after the death of Leonardo da Vinci, his legacy still lives on in Rome.

Villa Farnesina, a small museum in Trastevere, is currently home to an exhibit exploring Da Vinci’s work and, specifically, his impact on the artists of his time. On display are works

by Da Vinci’s direct and indirect students that show his influence and permanence on their art, as well as on the city of Rome.

Alongside the pieces by Leonardo’s protégés, life size recreations of the great master’s most famous paintings are also on display. In addition, his library and workshop are recreated to allow visitors to immerse themselves into what his creative atmosphere was like.

For more information, see listing below.

–S. Accetta

Palazzo Bonaparte Brand-new exhibit space in what was once the residence of Napoleon’s mother, long closed to the public. Filled with glorious wall and ceiling frescoes and mosaic floors. Until 8 Mar 2020: Secret Impressionism. Little-known works by Monet, Renoir, Cezanne, and more. Open Mon–Fri, 9am–7pm; Sat, Sun, 9am–9pm. Piazza Venezia, 5. Tel 068715111.

Map E3/4 mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

Rome’s Gallery of Modern Art Italian and international works by 20th-century artists. Sculptures, paintings, and applied art by Manzù, Donghi, Tato, Capogrossi, De Chirico, Guttuso, and Scipione. Open Tue– Sun, 10am–6:30pm. Via Francesco Crispi, 24.

Tel 060608. €7.50, €6.50, reduced. Map E2 galleriaartemodernaroma.itì

Scuderie del Quirinale Former stables of the Quirinale Palace, now a space for major art and history exhibits. Until 6 Jan 2020: Pompeii and Santorini: An Eternity in One Day. Open daily, 10am–8pm; Fri, Sat, 10am– 10:30pm. Via XXIV Maggio, 16. Tel 0634467500. €12, €9.50 reduced. Map E3 scuderiequirinale.it

Vittoriano Complex – Altare della Patria Exhibition site located inside the vast white monument to King Victor Emmanuel II hosts up to three exhibits, as well as a permanent collection on the Italian Risorgimento. Elevator to rooftop terrace provides one of the best views in the city. Open daily, 9:30am–5:30pm. Piazza Venezia. €7, €3.50. Map E4

MUSEUMS Capitoline Museums Oldest museum in the world houses Roman antiquities and works by Bernini, Cavalier

58 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 2019

Small, intimate museum in Villa Borghese beside the orange garden, with works by De Chirico, Warhol, Manzù, and other 20th-century masters.

Open Tue–Fri, 1–7pm; Sat, Sun, 10am–7pm.

Viale Fiorello La Guardia, 6. Free. Map E1 museocarlobilotti.it

Centrale Montemartini Over 400 ancient sculptures, sarcophagi, mosaics, and other artifacts are displayed in one of Rome’s first power plants, along side industrial-era turbines and machinery making a vibrant and fascinating dicotomy. Dozens of previously archived works are now part of the permanent collection. Until 2 Feb 2020: Colors of the Etruscans. Open Tue–Sun, 9am–7pm. Viale Ostiense, 106. Tel 065748030. €9, €8 reduced. Off Map (see E6) centralemontemartini.org

Leonardo da Vinci Museum This museum brings to life the genius of Leonardo da Vinci as an inventor, artist, scientist, anatomist, engineer, architect, and much more.

The interactive museum is a fascinating and inspirational experience, perfect for visitors of all ages and suitable for the whole family to enjoy.

Open daily from 10am–7pm. Piazza del Popolo, 12.

Map D1 museodavinci.it

Goethe Museum The house where German poet Goethe lived with painter Hans Tischbein, filled with diaries, letters, and art. Hosts concerts and events. Until 9 Feb 2020: Views of Italy: 1780–1850. Open Tue–Sun, 10am–6pm. Via del Corso, 18. Tel 0632650412. €5, €3 reduced. Map D1

Museum of Rome at Palazzo Braschi Paintings, drawings, and photographs in a historic palace tell the evolution of Rome from the Middle Ages to today, with particular focus on 18th and 19th centuries. Until 15 March 2020: Canova.

Eternal Beauty. Open Tue–Sun, 10am–7pm. Piazza San Pantaleo, 10. Tel 0667108346. €13, €9 reduced.

Map D3 museodiroma.it

Museum of Rome in Trastevere Former convent accommodates Rome’s folklore museum, with permanent collections on the history of Trastevere and photography exhibits.

LAST CHANCE Until 24 Nov: 1989: Velvet Revolution: 30 years of Czechoslovak Freedom.

Also: Photo IILA. Winner and finalists of the IILA Photography Award.Open Tue–Sun, 10am–8pm.

Piazza Sant’Egidio 1b. €6, €5 reduced. Tel 065816563. Map C4 museodiromaintrastevere.it

Museums of Villa Torlonia Set in a lush park, three museums, Casino Nobile, Casino dei Principi, and Casina delle Civette, showcase a variety of works from ancient sculptures to art glass. Until 19 Jan 2020: The Garden of Marvels: Paintings and frames by Garth Speight. Until 26 Jan 2020: Jewel: An intimate

interview. Jewelry and sculptures by Maria Paola Ranfi. Open Tue–Sun, 9am–7pm. Via Nomentana, 70. Tel 060608. €9.50, €7.50 reduced. Map H1 museivillatorlonia.it

National Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Explore Etruscan art at this spectacular Renaissance villa near Villa Borghese. Open Tue–Sun, 9am–8pm. Piazzale di Villa Giulia, 9. Tel 063226571. €8, €4 reduced. Off Map villagiulia. beniculturali.it

National Roman Museum at the Baths of Diocletian Rome’s largest baths complex hosts a vast number of ancient works including sarcophagi, statues, and bas-reliefs. Open Tue–Sun, 9am– 7:30pm. Via Enrico da Nicola, 79. Tel 06684851. €10, €2 reduced. Off Map

National Roman Museum at Palazzo Altemps Renaissance palace housing collections of ancient art that once belonged to great Roman families.

Until 2 Feb 2020: Medardo Rosso. Works by the Italian impressionist sculptor. Open Tue–Sun, 9am– 7:45pm. Piazza Sant’Apollinare, 46. Tel 06684851. €10, €2 reduced. Map D3

National Roman Museum at Palazzo Massimo One of the most important ancient art collections in the city, consisting of Imperial busts, bronze Roman statues, mosaics, sarcophagi, and breathtaking frescoes. Open Tue–Sun, 9am–7:45pm. Largo di Villa Peretti, 1. Tel 06684851. €10, €2 reduced. Map G3 museonazionaleromano.beniculturali.it

Palazzo Merulana Private museum displaying Cerasi Foundation collection, 90 works of modern art, predominantly paintings by 20th-century Italian artists, from the Scuola Romana to the 1960s. Until 23 Feb 2020: Jan Fabre: The Rhythm of the Brain. Open Mon, Wed–Fri, 2–8pm; Sat, Sun, 10am–8pm. Via Merulana, 121. €5, €4 reduced. Map G4/5 palazzomerulana.it

Palazzo Venezia National Museum Fascinating museum with an impressive art collection containing pieces from all eras, from terracotta models by Bernini to Venetian glass to medieval decorative art. LAST CHANCE Until 3 Nov: Bulgari: The History, the Dream. 100 years of history recounted through their most iconic pieces.

Until 11 Nov: Armor and Power in Renaissance Europe. Exhibits are also on at Castel Sant’Angelo.

Combined ticket available. Open Tue–Sun, 8:30am–7:30pm. Piazza di San Marco, 49. Tel 0669994284. €10, €2 reduced. Map E3/4

The Mosaic Museum The Savelli mosaic laboratory has been collecting rare works of micromosaic for decades. The private collection is now a museum showcasing more than 200 pieces. Open daily, 10:30am–4pm. Largo degli Alicorni, 27. Free. Map B3

Villa Farnesina Renaissance villa designed by Baldassare Peruzzi and Giulio Sangallo with frescoes by Raphael and his atelier. Until 12 Jan 2020: Leonardo in Rome: Influences and Inheritance. Open Wed–Mon, 10am–7pm (last entry 5pm). Via della Lungara, 230. Tel 0668027268. €10, €9 reduced. Map C4 villafarnesina.it

ESSENTIALS Ask the Concierge

TRANSPORTATION My Vespa See Rome like the Romans do, from perched atop your very own Vespa. This company offers both short- and long-term Vespa rentals, so you can have your own set of wheels no matter how long you intend to stay. They also offer a range of tours, so you can visit the city’s sites by Vespa (you can choose to drive your own or be a passenger), Segway, bicycle, and more. Open daily, 9am–7pm.

Via Cavour, 80. Tel 064815669. All credit cards accepted. myvespa.it

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Principal bus terminals: Termini Station, Pza Venezia, Largo Argentina. Metro lines A and B operate daily, 5:30am–11:30pm, Sat until 1:30am. Single ticket: €1.50; valid 100 minutes on one or more buses and/ or one metro ride. Validate ticket on bus or upon entering metro. 1-day pass: €7; 3-day pass: €18; 7-day pass: €24. Tickets available at ticket machines, bars, tobacconists, and newsstands. Tel 800431784.

TAXIS Valerio Scione is the concierge of Splendide Royal, a luxury boutique hotel affiliated with Condé Nast Johansens and situated between glamorous Via Veneto and the Spanish Steps. Replete in modern baroque décor, the hotel boasts a number of terraces that overlook the Eternal City and a rooftop restaurant. Scione shares with WHERE his expert tips on seeing Rome at its best.

1 What makes Rome different from other capital cities?

You can take in the masterpieces of Bernini in Piazza Navona and the wonders of Ancient Rome in the span of a few minutes.

Wandering the narrow streets throughout the city center, you can see and feel centuries of history and art like nowhere else in the world.

2 What are your favorite of the city’s hidden corners?

Campo de’ Fiori, to me, is an example of authentic Rome. It is one of my favorite parts of the city, where I usually go during the spring and summer after dinner to get a drink or a delicious espresso in one of the cozy bars that border the piazza.

3 In your opinion, what are some of the most romantic spots in the city?

Via dei Portoghesi and Via dell’Orso, both close to the Pantheon, are two stunning streets inside a quiet area of the city. In the evening, stop for a candlelit dinner at one of the local trattorias in the area.

4 When your friends come to visit, where do you take them?

I would start with a stroll through classical Rome, visiting its various squares and fountains and then stop into a nice local trattoria for an authentic pasta lunch. We’d then move on to St. Peter’s Basilica and the next day the ancient section of the city.

5 What’s the strangest thing that’s happened to you during your time as concierge?

I’ve managed to make arrangements like trips by helicopter, gastronomic tours in the countryside out of Rome or even a private ship with a crew to cover the short distance between Naples and Capri.

6 Is there an event on this month that you’d recommend to visitors?

The city is hosting dozens of fascinating exhibits at any given time. My top picks would be the Canova exhibit at Palazzo Braschi and the exploration of Pompeii at the Scuderie del Quirinale.

7 What’s your number one piece of advice for tourists visiting Rome?

My advice is to rely on the concierge of your hotel in order to make the most of your time in the city. Send him or her an email in advance, state what you’re interested in seeing, and ask for help organizing an itinerary.

8 Any suggestions for a restaurant with a great price/quality ratio?

Hosteria Romana on Via del Boccaccio is a small, rustic, family-run trattoria. Price wise, it’s reasonable and the food is excellent: classic Roman dishes served in a laid-back atmosphere.

9 Lastly Rome is most beautiful…

At sunset in Villa Borghese or along the Tiber River.

Can be picked up at taxi stands or hailed. Don’t trust people who approach you at stations, airports, or tourist sites offering taxis. Authorized taxis can be called at: 064994, 063570, 066645, 065551, 0688177. €48 flat fare between Fiumicino and center; €30 between Ciampino and center.

AIRPORT TRANSFERS To Fiumicino and Ciampino Airport (by train and coach) Non-stop Leonardo Express departs Termini Station and arrives inside Fiumicino Airport. 31 mins. €14 one-way. Trains also run to and from Trastevere, Ostiense, Tuscolana, and Tiburtina stations, €8 one-way. trenitalia.it

CAR RENTALS Avis (Fiumicino)—Tel 0665011531/06419941 Europcar—Tel 800014410/064882854 Hertz—Tel 199112211/064740389 Maggiore (Fiumicino)—0665010678/064880049 CHAUFFEUR SERVICES Limu Event Hire an all-white 8.6 meter limousine and enjoy Happy Hour on board your private eight-person vehicle, with music under your control when you bring an iPod. Daily Ferrari and Lamborghini rental also available. Tel 3668079203. limuevent.it Editor’s Note: In our previous issue, the Ask the Concierge interview featured an incorrect photo of the hotel. A photo of Hotel Parco dei Principi was included instead of the correct one, Hotel Splendide Royal. We apologize to our readers and the interested parties for our error, and republish the interview here with the correct photo.

YOUR OFFICE ABROAD Currency Exchange Take a passport or other ID. Commission rates vary from zero to €5 per transaction. Banks and post offices also have exchange bureaux.

>American Express Piazza di Spagna, 38. Tel 0667642413. Map E2 www.wheretraveler.com 59

ESSENTIALS >Bettini Via Veneto, 4a. Tel 064871458. Map E/F2

Banks Most banks have 24-hour ATM (Bancomat) machines. Opening hours vary, but most operate Mon–Fri, 8:30am–1:30 pm and 2:45–4:30pm. Closed on public holidays. Map E5

MAILING SERVICES Postal System Stamps (francobolli) can be bought at any post office.

Red mailboxes can be found on the walls of buildings.

Central post office in Piazza San Silvestro. Map E3

Mail Boxes, Etc. Postal, business, and communications company offering 24-hour access mailbox service, fax service, overnight packages, professional packing, money transfer, binding, laminating, printing, office supplies, Internet access, and more. Open Mon–Fri, 9:30am– 7pm, Sat until 1pm. Via E. Q. Visconti, 12/14. Tel 063612849. Fax 063226712. mbe075@mbe.it Map C/ D2 Via Lazio, 10. Tel 0642014774. Fax 0642014217. Most credit cards accepted. Map E/F2 mbe328@tin.it

MSB Shipping Broker Offers fax service, digital printing, graphic design, binding, laminating, photocopying, plotter printing, adhesive labelling, worldwide shipping with tracking number, and more. Via dei Salentini, 17. Tel 0698185496.

Map H3 shippingbroker.it

TELECOMMUNICATIONS DIRECTORIES

Artistic maps of all Italian cities, paintings, graphic novels, digital prints, high quality art pieces. mariocamerini.it

Mobile phone operators US—US cell phoned must be tri- or quad-band to be used in Italy. Some US service providers offer international roaming. Contact your provider for details.

UK—Cell phones are compatible within the Italian network. Most UK service providers offer international roaming. Contact your provider for details.

Pre-paid SIM cards can be used with unlocked, compatible phones. Networks: TIM, Vodafone, 3, and Wind.

INTERNET Mail Boxes, Etc. Open Mon–Fri, 9:30am–7pm; Sat, 9:30am–1pm. Via Ennio Q. Visconti, 12/14. €4/hr. Map C/D2

Exto Cafe Open Mon–Fri, 8:30am–8:30pm; Sat, 8:30am–6pm.

Piazza Firenze, 255. €3/hr. Map D3

SERVICES Disabled Travelers The main information centers for disabled travelers are C.O.I.N. (Tel 0657177001; coinsociale.it), and Roma Per Tutti (Tel 0657177094; romapertutti.it).

Rental in Rome Instead of being cooped up in a hotel room, why not opt for a spacious apartment all to yourself?

Rental in Rome features apartments, villas, and castles for rent in the heart of Rome so you can experience the city like a local. Via Marianna Dionigi, 57. Tel 063220068 Map D2 rentalinrome.com

Tax-Free Shopping Non-EU residents are entitled to a VAT tax refund

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Y with min. purchase of €155. Ask for an invoice (fattura) or a Tax-free Cheque when shopping.

Goods must be stamped by customs agent upon departure no more than three months after date of purchase. Stamped invoice must be mailed to place of purchase within four months of purchase.

JewishRom historian eyes. Gh available and anci info@jew

TOURS & COURSES

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Bespoke Tours Tailor-made tours that allow you to discover Rome through the eyes of the locals. The Vatican and the Colosseum are unmissable experiences, as well as the undergrounds of San Clemente and the Roman houses of the Celio. You can also choose exciting shopping tours with personal guides and cooking classes run by expert chefs. Tel 3388491670. info@bespoketours.it bespoketours.it

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This cooking school near Piazza Navona offers handson cooking classes and culinary walking tours. Learn how to make fresh pasta, pizza, gelato, and tiramisù from professional chefs or wander the streets of Rome with gastronomic guides to discover historic food shops and sample the best of Roman food and wine. Private and group tours available. Corso del Rinascimento, 65. Tel 0668805375. Cel 3883646013. inromecooking.com

RomebySegway

Italia

Visit Rome on a Segway: it’s less tiring and ecofriendly. Visit ancient wonders, marvelous churches, and Baroque palaces with audio/video guides.

Bike tours also available, with guide or self-guided with map, programmed SatNav, audio-guide, and helmet-mounted camera. Tel 0677591822. romebysegway.com; info@romebysegway.com

Mail Boxes Services

Rome with Aly If you’ve ever wished you could have a local tell you all the best places to go, things to see, and food to try (and even take you there), you’re in luck. Aly has lived in Rome for many years, and her experience in the gastronomic sector has made her distinctly qualified to offer food-based tours all around the city. Choose from a wide range of walking tours exploring local markets, authentic eateries, wine bars only the locals know, and much more. All tours customizable. Tel 3385289958. romewithaly.com; info@romewithaly.com

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PRIVATE HOSPITALS/ENGLISH-SPEAKING DOCTORS

NEED A PERSONAL ASSISTANT?

Dr. Roberto Coronelli (Dentist) Dental surgeon and implantologist Roberto Coronelli will see to all your dental needs during your stay in Rome, from cavity fillings to prosthetics to oral surgery. The studio in the Termini area utilizes all the latest dental technologies and equipment.

Open 9:30am–1:30pm and 2:30pm–7pm. Via Castelfidardo, 8. Tel 0642013296. Map G2 studiodentisticorobertocoronelli.it

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My Rome

Danielle Di Gianvito [travel professional] Danielle Di Gianvito is a versatile travel professional with more than 20 years of experience in the industry, working for airlines, travel agencies, tour operators, and tourism offices, with a particular emphasis on marketing, PR, and communications. She is the founder and managing director, along with Roberta D’Amato, of ITA Italian Travel Awards, a prestigious honor that has become considered the Oscars of the Italian tourism industry.

What makes Rome different from other capital cities?

The light that transforms the city differently each day, making it a sort of ever-changing kaleidoscope. It is a city that gives and surprises.

What is one of your favorite places in the city?

I adore Villa Ada [pictured top right]. It is perhaps the most untamed and “wildest” park of Rome (which is, by the way, the greenest city in all of Europe). This park is vividly described in Niccolò Ammaniti’s novel Che la festa cominci.

What are the most photogenic places in the city? Do you see Rome through the lens of films like The Great Beauty or do you have your own “secret city” that is equally attractive?

The Great Beauty is a gorgeous tribute to the 64 W H E R E R O M E I N O V E M B E R 20 19

city, a great artistic and aesthetic feat that captivates the viewer instantly.

In your opinion, what are some of the most unmissable aspects of the city that no tourist should neglect?

The Rome of the Caesars, meaning ancient sites like the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Imperial Fora, and the Circus Maximus, all of which exalt the timeless grandeur of ancient Rome. This is where the original spirit of the city resides. Another truly unmissable place is the Tiber River, which has unquestionably shaped Rome’s destiny.

And to jump forward a few centuries, I’d recommend a visit to the neighborhood of Tor Marancia to see their spectacular murals [pictured bottom right] that represent a contemporary side of the Capital; this street art allows us to see Rome through a modern and unconventional lens.

Which restaurants would you suggest to our readers?

I would recommend restaurants in the Jewish Quarter, like Giggetto al Portico [Via

del Portico d’Ottavia, 21] [pictured bottom left] or La Taverna del Ghetto [Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 8] in order to properly sample the authentic flavor of Rome and its rich culinary tradition.

Where do you like to go shopping in the historic center?

The area around Piazza di Spagna and Via del Babuino is scattered with luxurious boutiques that represent the best of “Made in Italy” fashion and design.

What is your idea of a perfect evening's entertainment?

For me, it's all about dining outdoors. I like to find a table in one of the splendid little piazzas of the historic center, when the weather permits of course. Luckily, Rome’s temperatures are pretty mild all year round.

Lastly, Rome is most beautiful when...

When everyone goes on vacation in August and the city is empty and practically all yours.

Another exquisite time is at dawn’s first light, when the city is slowly waking.

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Which three adjectives best describe Rome?

Unique, captivating, unforgettable.

Legendary Harry’s Bar is the

aperitif, enjoy the live piano bar

unique place that evokes the

every evening and dive into the

“Dolce Vita” as if it were a clip

magic of the Via Veneto from the

from the film, creating a fla-

exclusive and fascinating Harry’s

shback to the golden era of the

Bar. The refined cuisine recalls

Via Veneto, when Frank Sinatra

the freshness of Mediterranean

sang at the piano and all the

www.harrysbar.it

flavours based on prime ingre-

stars made their appearance in

dients. Tradition and fantasy in-

this bar/restaurant full of gla-

spire the elegant dishes, accom-

mour and style. As in the roa-

panied by the most prestigious

ring sixties, you can still sip an

labels and a high class service.