Where Magazine New Orleans Sep 2019

T R AV E L E R S K N O W W H E R E ™

NEW ORLEANS SEPT 2019

GET GOING

HANDS-ON HOW-TOS

A TASTE OF THE TOWN

Scope out St. Charles Avenue

Crescent City continuing education courses

Restaurant Week and new eateries

NOLA on Tap and finger-lickin’ chicken

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CONTENTS SEPT 2019

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 8 Ask the Expert 12 Calendar 14 One Block 22 Maps 51 Where Next 54 Parting Shot 56

Cooking courses, fitness classes, burlesque basics— learning can be fun!

19

The Write Stuff

20

Out and About

21

New to NOLA

Cool pens, papers and stationery shops worth writing home about.

Museum Day, Restaurant Week and the new Louisiana Children’s Museum.

ON THE

COVER Food foraging around the Crescent City.



Veal sweetbreads with lemoncaper butter from Bayona, part of Restaurant Week. ©CHRIS GRANGER/BAYONA

(FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©PAPIER PLUME; ©NOMA; ©IMTRAV PHOTOGRAPHY/ PALM & PINE

THE GUIDE Dining 25 Shopping 34 Attractions 38 Entertainment 42 Nightlife 44

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wheretraveler.com

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THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2019

SEPTEMBER

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

B

urgundy (“bur-GUN-dee”), Chartres (“Charters”), Corondelet (“Cuh-ron-duhlette”): Pronouncing New Orleans street names in the local vernacular can be something of a learning curve for first-time visitors. But there’s more to glean from Crescent City culture than just butchered French and life lessons along Bourbon Street.

In this issue we highlight ways in which to brush up on your Big Easy through a variety of hands-on, how-to classes. From cooking and glassblowing to beadwork and pole dancing, we’ve compiled a NOLA crash course that covers a wide range of interests. Foodies will want to further study September’s Restaurant Week menus and the city’s ever-expanding dining scene, while young minds will be broadened by a visit to the new children’s museum in City Park.

Go on, immerse yourself; no tests will be given.

Extra credit to anyone who can say Tchoupitoulas!

ACROSS THE WORLD WhereTraveler ® is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world.

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SEPTEMBER 2019

NEW ORLEANS

- U.S.A. Today

Wood Grilled Redfish & Louisiana Lump Crabmeat Tasso ham & roasted mushrooms, Pontalba potatoes, lemon butter sauce

A Best Seafood Restaurant in U.S.A - Travel & Leisure

115 BOURBON ST, FRENCH QUARTER

Reservations 504-598-1200 • www.redfishgrill.com

Breakfast at “Best Restaurants in the World” - Conde Nast Traveler “South’s Top 10

Best Restaurants”

- Southern Living Magazine

“Restaurant of the Year”

- New Orleans Magazine

4 1 7 R O YA L S T, F R E N C H Q UA R T E R BREAKFAST / LUNCH

•

DINNER

Reservations 504.525.9711

•

PRIVATE EVENTS

www.brennansneworleans.com

WhereTraveler® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, www.morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.

Top 10 Seafood Restaurant

EDITORIAL & DESIGN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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Jennifer Keller Vaz PHOTO EDITOR

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EXPERT TIP: New Orleans is a marathon, not a sprint!

Q: THE LOEWS WEBSITE SAYS ITS CONCIERGES CAN ASSIST WITH JUST ABOUT ANYTHING, INCLUDING “RECOMMENDING THE BEST GUMBO IN TOWN.” SO…WHERE WOULD THAT BE? A: Restaurant R’evolu-

LOCAL HISTORY? A: The Historic New

Orleans Collection; it does a fantastic job with its exhibits. Also for state history, the Cabildo in Jackson Square.

Q: WHAT’S THE MOST DECADENT REQUEST YOU’VE EVER RECEIVED? A: I had a guest who was

Q: THE NATIONAL FRIED CHICKEN FEST TAKES PLACE THIS MONTH. SUGGEST THREE LOCAL SPOTS FOR SPOT-ON FRIED CHICKEN. A: McHardy’s, which is

really good and authentic, Fiorella’s and, of course, the famous Willie Mae’s Scotch House.

CONCIERGE AT THE LOEWS HOTEL

Q: YOUR HOTEL IS ON POYDRAS STREET, WHICH FEATURES A NUMBER OF PUBLIC ARTWORKS. WHERE CAN VISITORS SEE MORE ART IN THE OPEN? A: The Banksy art on

Street. And it’s worth making a special trip to City Park to see the New Orleans Museum of Art’s sculpture garden.

the corner of St. Claude Avenue and Kerelec

Q: WHERE WOULD YOU SEND VISITORS FOR INSIGHT INTO

Q: NAME THE CITY’S MOST UNSUNG MUSIC CLUB. A: The Jazz Playhouse at

the Royal Sonesta Hotel on Bourbon Street. I’ve seen some great performers there.



looking to spoil her significant other. So I hired a chauffer, arranged a picnic lunch in Audubon Park, set up massages and really just rolled out the red carpet to make sure the whole weekend was special for them.

MICHAEL RICHARD

The Historic New Orleans Collection does a fantastic job with its exhibits.

©DOUG BRANTLEY

tion’s Death by Gumbo is incredible. It’s a darkroux, Cajun-style gumbo with a whole, stuffed quail in the middle of it.

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SEPTEMBER 2019

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M / N E W- O R L E A N S / L O C A L - E V E N T S

THE

CALENDAR

SAINTS HOME GAMES SEPTEMBER 9 & 29

KACEY MUSGRAVES

8 GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH Southern Decadence Sept. 1 The annual, over-the-top parade—the largest gay gathering in the South— begins at 2 pm from the Golden Lantern (1230 Royal

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

MERECEDES-BENZ SUPERDOME

St.). www.southern decadence.net Charlie Wilson Sept. 1 The former Gap Band front man drops a bomb on the Smoothie King Center. www.smoothiekingcenter.com Lil Weezyana Fest Sept. 7 Travis Scott, Meek Mill and Megan Thee Stallion are just a few of the performers joining Lil Wayne for this annual get down at the UNO Festival Grounds. www.arena.uno.edu N.O. Burlesque Festival Sept. 14 Striptease artists from

around the globe bump and grind it out for the title of Queen of Burlesque at the Civic Theatre. www.new orleansburlesquefest.com National Fried Chicken Festival Sept. 20-22 This food fete has proven so popular it’s added on a third day in its fourth year.

Head to the Woldenberg Park to see what everyone’s clucking about. www. friedchickenfestival.com NOLA on Tap Sept. 21 Day drinking for a cause!

The state’s largest beer festival—toasting more than 400 national, local

and home brewers in City Park—is also a fundraiser for the Louisiana SPCA. www.nolaontap.org Kacey Musgraves Sept. 27-28 The recent Grammy-winning country crossover pulls into town for a double-header at the Fillmore. www.fillmorenola.com Gretna Heritage Festival Sept. 27-29 This 25th annual affair features 40-plus national (The Wallflowers, Rick Springfield) and local (Irma Thomas, Lost Bayou Ramblers) music acts on multiple stages. www. gretnafest.com

SEPTEMBER 2019

©(LEFT) ©JAMIE LAMOR THOMPSON/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (RIGHT) ©KATHY ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY/NEWORLEANS.COM

THE LINEUP

Are you ready for some football? The Black and Gold kick off their 2019 season by messing with Texas this month at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. Drew Brees and company square off against the Houston Texans Sept. 9 at 6:10 pm, before tackling the Dallas Cowboys Sept. 29 at 7:20 pm. Both matchups are preceded by free fan fests, which take place at the Dome-adjacent Champions Square starting three hours prior to game time. www.mbsuperdome.com



WHAT’S HAPPENING

NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

YOGA AT THE CABILDO

Class Action Get schooled in New Orleans culture Doug Brantley & Lorin Gaudin

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©ERIKA GOLDRING/NEWORLEANS.COM; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUM

JOY THE BAKER

NOLA JITTERBUGS

S

o long, summer, school bells are ringing. Stop stomping your feet; learning needn’t be boring—especially in New Orleans, where even funerals promise a party.

Here, we’ve compiled a Crescent City course curriculum that’s both fun and informative.

WHAT’S COOKIN’

Anything food or drink related is a no-brainer in New Orleans. When it comes to cooking and imbibing, there’s a lot to discover—a veritable gumbo of learning opportunities. Joy Wilson, aka Joy the Baker (yes, the famous one), is a local treasure who opens her kitchen/studio/home (www.joythebaker.com) for pie and cake-decorating classes that sell out fast. Cattail Cooking chefs Sierra Torres and Grace Treffinger are New

Orleans Center for Creative Arts graduates, who conduct classes at their alma mater (www.noccainstitute. com). September’s syllabus includes Preservation & Canning (Sept. 7), Southern Desserts (Sept. 14) and Outdoor Cooking (Sept. 21). Craft cocktail guru Daniel Victory runs a great bar (p. 44) and a chill cocktail learning program (www.drinklabnola.com), where enthusiasts can be schooled on New Orleans classics and mixology 101, or take whiskey- and wine-tasting courses.

FIT FOR FUN

For a city known for overindulgence, New Orleans offers an inordinate amount of wellness classes. There are free zumba courses every Saturday at City Park (p. 38) and early morning yoga gatherings at the

DRINK LAB NOLA

Louisiana State Museum’s Cabildo (p. 40) and in the outdoor sculpture garden at New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 40), where tai chi is practiced amid its indoor galleries on Monday evenings. New Orleans Jogging Tours (p. 43) lets you work in a local history lesson during your workout, while Move Ya Brass (www.moveyabrass.com) incorporates bounce and hip-hop into its free, twice-weekly sessions at Crescent Park.

DANCE, DANCE, DANCE

Swing by the Maison on Frenchmen Street Sundays at 10 am for free dance lessons from NOLA Jitterbugs (www.nolajitterbugs.com). The popular troupe also offers hands-on how-tos Sunday afternoons and evenings at d.b.a and the AllWays Lounge; you’ll find them Mondays at

17

the Dragon’s Den and Wednesdays at Rock ’n’ Bowl. Local legend Bella Blue shares the tricks of her trade at the New Orleans School of Burlesque (www.nolaschoolofburlesque.com), where you can drop in on Wednesday nights for just $15. Crescent Lotus (www.crescentlotus.com) will bring its burlesque, belly dancing and bounce classes to you, or you can visit its studio on Sunday mornings for 75 minutes of pole-dancing pointers.

CRAFT SERVICES

RAISE A GLASS

In addition to free daily demonstrations, the New Orleans School of Glassworks and Printmaking Studio (p. 34) conducts “Wine + Design” classes, in which students create their own wine glass or vino-themed artwork while enjoying their favorite vintage. Across the river at Rosetree Glass Studio (p. 35), artist Mark Rosenbaum leads twice-monthly “Blow Your Own” courses. The focus Sept. 21 and 28 is on tumblers and vases. Or sign up for a “Make & Take” workshop at Lizano’s Glass Haus (www.lizanosglasshaus. com), where visitors can fashion their own ornaments, party platters and sugar skulls.

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) MYTH GALLERY, N.O. WEAVING STUDIO AND THE N.O. SCHOOL OF GLASSWORKS

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

SEPTEMBER 2019

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©MYTH GALLERY; ©NEW ORLEANS WEAVING STUDIO; ©SHAWN FINK

New Orleans is a haven for craftspeople. Every nook and cranny of the city finds fascinating makers with incredible skills who are willing to share their knowledge. Home of the beautiful,

quirky beadwork of Betsy Younquist, Myth Gallery (p. 34) is holding a “sip & string, bead & booze” event Sept. 6. Create assemblage necklaces with both contemporary and vintage beads, the same used in Youngquist’s sculptural mosaic work. Weaving artist and upcycle expert Lena Kolb leads loom and needlecraft classes at her sunny New Orleans Weaving Studio (www.lenakolb.com), and also sells supplies you can take home to continue the obsession. The Ogden Museum (p. 40) offers more than just exhibits, including Thursday evening “after-hours” concerts and various workshops. Get your inner Monet on Sept. 21 with a class that explores the fundamentals of pastel techniques.

Where Now

The Write Stuff

Paper, pens, journals and planners are having a serious moment. On the local front, there are makers who create their own papers and inks, and branded pens that are as pretty to look at as they are lovely to hold. Get back into the art of letter writing, or take a digital break by filling a journal. LORIN GAUDIN

PAPIER PLUME

BOX, PAPER, SCISSOR

At this tiny but mighty French Quarter shop, Italian papers, journals and Japan’s beloved Tomoe River tablets are shelved alongside gorgeous pens and leather goods. The New Orleans Collection of inks includes “Streetcar Green,” “Sazerac,” and “Bayou Nightfall” to name a few. www.papierplume.com

Run by an artist and self-described “pen geek,” this store’s two front display tables are an ever-changing array of writing implements, stencils, rulers and desk objects. The main room’s big glass case holds metal Kaweco pens arranged to resemble an art installation. www.boxpaperscissor.com

SCRIPTURA

LIONHEART PRINTS

Plan to spend a solid hour or more browsing and basket-filling here. The house-designed grocery-list tablets feature local icons and phrases, the cocktail calendar includes recipes, the leather-covered journals are lush and there’s always a fabulous new pen for scribbling notes. www.scriptura.com

Liz Maute Cooke is known for her beautiful hand-lettering, cleverly worded (sometimes saucy) cards and wall art.

Her retail space is bright, open and packed with the latest stationery brands, a rainbow of gel and brush pens, Corkcicle canteens, books and chic home goods. www.lionheartprints.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PAPIER PLUME; BOX, PAPER, SCISSOR; LIONHEART PRESS; AND SCRIPTURA

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Out & About

BR E

E

ments, such as Commander’s Palace, to casual spots like Longway Tavern (shown), Restaurant Week lets you get a real taste of the town without blowing your budget.

www.smithsonianmag.com/ museumday.

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C N OU S ROM OP SE

MUSEUM DAY Drop a note to the folks at Smithsonian Magazine to thank them for free admission for two to eight of the city’s top museums Sept. 21. The New Orleans Museum of Art (shown), National WWII Museum and historic Gallier House are all part of the package; all you have to do is download your tickets.

DREN S MUSEUM

NOM

www.coolinaryneworleans.com/ restaurant-week

C OC

Missed out on last month’s COOLinary bargain menus? Make up for lost time Sept. 9-15, when dozens of eateries throughout the city serve up special prix fixe offerings as part of this annual dine-around.

From white-tablecloth establish-



RESTAURANT WEEK

E SE M N-M ONE

ON

ERN

What’s new, now and not to be missed

LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Travelers with tykes in tow will want to pay a visit to City Park to check out the Louisiana Children’s Museum’s new $47.5-million digs. Geared to kids eight and under, the 56,000 square-foot, state-of-the-art facility is spread over 8.5 acres, and features a variety of fun, interactive exhibits. Highlights include “Move With the River,” which traces the mighty Mississippi from its origins in Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico, and “Follow That Food,” a Louisiana culinary journey that tracks the state’s foodstuffs from field to family table. www.lcm.org

Where Now

NEW TO NOLA N

ew Orleans’ food scene is nonstop.

Recently there has been an uptick of next-gen chef/restaurateurs putting everything on the table, from beautiful baked goods to new renditions of traditional dishes. There is no better time than now to be a food explorer.

ONE STONE RESTAURANT A quick ferry ride across the river or zip over the bridge to Algiers Point finds this sweet café, where a badass barista mans the coffee and there’s a killer cook in the kitchen. Go for the daily Tomlet (spe-

PALM & PINE This progressive and soulful restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America.

There is a deep, dark Oaxacan Mole with duck and tamales, or dig into closerto-home flavors of a crab claw cocktail. Save room for dessert; there’s a silky, yet sturdy flan to devour. www.palmandpinenola.com

LEVEE BAKING CO. The enticing, warm scent of yeast and sugar will lure into this new-ish bakery.

The buttery, flaky pastries

are addictive: mini babka, crumbly salted chocolate-chip cookies, an array of croissants, fresh-fromthe-oven breads—yes, please. www.levee bakingco.com

THE MUNCH FACTORY Start with the meat-andseafood gumbo at this Lower Garden District Creole eatery —a must in any weather. Chef Jordan Ruiz’s Oysters Gentilly (fried oysters on creamed spinach) and a pressed crisp Hot Sausage Patty Melt make the case for ditching your diet. That said, there is a big, complete menu with lovely salads and grilled fish, too. Decisions, decisions. www.themunch factory.net

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©ONE STONE RESTAURANT; ©IMTRAV PHOTOGRAPHY/PALM & PINE; ©LEVEE BAKING CO.; ©THE MUNCH FACTORY

LORIN GAUDIN

cial omelet) at breakfast, Bayou Taquitos at lunch or Thursday-Saturday dinner for chicken pot pie. www.onestonenola.com

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ONE STONE, PALM & PINE, LEVEE BAKING CO. AND THE MUNCH FACTORY

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F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O D O O N S T. C H A R L E S AV E N U E , V I S I T W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

ONE BLOCK FIND THE BEST ON

ST. CHARLES AVENUE BETWEEN POYDRAS AND GIROD

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: LAFAYETTE SQUARE, DNO, HERBSAINT

SEE

PLAY

EAT

SHOP

Anchored by Gallier Hall ( formerly city hall), Lafayette Square has a decidedly governmental vibe. The Federal Reserve Bank is home a free museum, while the art deco Hebert Federal Building starred in “JFK.”

On the Carondelet side of the block at the Ace Hotel, you’ll find local bands and DJs mixing things up in the downstairs Three Keys lounge, and hipsters hanging poolside at Alto on the rooftop. The French-accented Bar Marilou is just steps away.

Grab a sidewalk seat at the award-winning Herbsaint and watch the streetcar roll by. Italian is the order at Marcello’s and Josephine Estelle; oyster lovers will swoon over Seaworthy.

Chic women’s wear and locally made St. Claude Jewelry is the get at Freda, while Friend is all about the guys.

At DNO, the easygoing Ts, tanks and NOLA-themed gift items are designed with everyone in mind.

 Lafayette Square

 Three Keys

St. Charles Ave. and Lafayette St.

600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180, www.threekeysnola.com

 Museum of Trade & Finance 525 St. Charles Ave., 504.593.3200

 Gallier Hall 545 St. Charles Ave.

 Hebert Federal Building 600 S. Maestri Place

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W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

 Alto

 Herbsaint 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114, www.herbsaint.com

 Marcello’s 715 St. Charles Ave.,504.581.6333, www.marcelloscafe.com

 Freda 600 Carondelet St. #130, 504.309.7515, www.shop-freda.com

 Friend

600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180, www.acehotel.com/neworleans

 Josephine Estelle 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070, www.josephineestelle.com

600 Carondelet St. #120, 504.342.2162, www.friendneworleans.com

 Bar Marilou

 Seaworthy

 DNO

544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711, www.barmarilou.com

630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071, www.seaworthynola.com

600 Carondelet St. #140, 504.324.7463, www.dno.la.com

SEPTEMBER 2019



MARILOU

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©PHOTO.ECCLES/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ©DNO; ©HERBSAINT; ©BAR MARILOU

AND BAR

THE

GUIDE OUR

CHOP TO IT

At Toups South (p. 27), the star of the show isn’t celebrity chef Isaac Toups (host of the Food Network’s “Kitchen Takeover”), but his perfectly fried, bone-in pork chops.

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.



©TOUPS SOUTH

Dining

DINING Central Business/ Warehouse District THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Victory Garden salads and Frito pie. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6; www.ww2eats.com AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic. This bright, modern food hall offers a variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiianinspired cuisines. B, L, D (daily).

801 Magazine St., 504.372.4321.

Map 3, C6; www.auctionhousemarket.com

BRIQUETTE Contemporary coastal is the catch at this sprawling space.

Follow the caramalized sea scallops with lump crab bisque, then dive into Louisiana redfish with crawfish relish. D (nightly).

701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496.

Map 3, C6; www.briquette-nola.com CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats.

D (nightly). 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5; www.chophousenola.com COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s

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THE GUIDE

BAR MARILOU With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an afternoon appertif while nibbling on sophisticated bites, such as crisped potato stacks topped with crème fraïche and caviar. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711.

Map 3, D4; www.barmarilou.com

lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. L, D (daily).

930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; www.cochonrestaurant.com COMPANY BURGER American. Adam Biderman’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320.

Map 1, D3; www.thecompany burger.com COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes with pineapple tartar sauce and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. L, (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; www.comperelapin.com

D IN IN G

COPPER VINE American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up caviar-topped oysters and heartier fare, such as skirt steak with duck fat fries. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4. www.coppervinewine.com COUVANT French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include English peas with duck egg and lardons, hanger steak Bordelaise and moules frites.

B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400.

Map 3, D5; www.couvant.com THE DAILY BEET Vegetarian. Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrial-chic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L, D (daily).

1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413.

Map 3, B4; 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377. Map 1, D4 www.thedailybeetnola.com

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DOMENICA Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasta (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. Mangia, mangia!

L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; www.domenicarestaurant.com EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum and more. L (M-F), D (nightly). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com GIANNA Italian. James Beard Awardwinning chef Rebecca Wilcomb pays tribute to her grandmother with homey fare, such as creamy polenta with lamb-sausage gravy, tortellini in bordo and veal saltimbocca.

700 Magazine St, 504.399.0816.

Map 3, C6; www.gianna restaurant.com

St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4; www.johnnysanchez restaurant.com

Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777.

Map 3, E5; www.restaurant august.com

MARCELLO’S Italian. Modern renditions of old-school Italian classics.

Start with a crisp, cold Caesar with anchovies, move into an earthy chicken cacciatore or beefy lasagna, and finish with a perfect tiramisu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 715 St. Charles Ave., 504.581.6333. Map 3, C5; www.marcelloscafe.com

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE Steaks. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb, sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily).

525 Fulton St., 504.587.7099.

Map 3, D6; www.ruthschris.com

MAYPOP Vietnamese. Asian-fusion food in a bright, open space. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345.Map 3, B4 ; www.maypop restaurant.com MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. L, D (daily).

424 Girod St., 504.526.3745.

Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com

GRILL ROOM Contemporary. The fine dining room at the Windsor Court Hotel is a favorite of both locals and visitors. Refined yet relaxed, the Grill Room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. B, D (daily), L (M-F); jazz Br (Sa-Su). 300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6: www.windsorcourthotel.com

PÊCHE Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better.

From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong.

L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; www.pecherestaurant.com

HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes fequently, with entrées such as confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114.

Map 3, C5; www.herbsaint.com

RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro offers traditional Italian dishes and not-so-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Open W-M. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5; www.redgravycafe.com

JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare.

Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hot spot puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. L, D (daily). 930 Poydras

RESTAURANT AUGUST French. Fine dining at its finest.

The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. L (MF), D (nightly); Su brunch. 301

SEAWORTHY Seafood. This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, East and West coasts and other sustainably sourced seafood.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071.

Map 3, C5; www.seaworthy nola.com TSUNAMI Sushi. At this sprawling sushi emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Big appetites will want to hit the Sumo Ribeye. L, D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474.

Map 3, C5; www.serving sushi.com WILLA JEAN BAKERY Contemporary. Pastry chef Kelly Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory side as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. B, L (MF); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334.

Map 3, B4; www.willajean.com

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue and kicked-up sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. L, D (daily). 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3; www.centralcitybbq.com MAÎS AREPAS Latin. An upscale CreoleColombian restaurant that puts overstuffed, filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center. L (TuSa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5

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Dining

TOUPS SOUTH Southern. Chef Isaac Toups creates museum-quality cuisine at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery. Biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (Su).

1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3; www.toupssouth.com

French Quarter

A new spirited sanctuary for cocktails, French fare and easy elegance. Located at Maison de la Luz and in partnership with Parisian group Quixotic Projects. barmarilou.com

@barmarilou

ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; www.antoines.com ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of the many famous dishes. D (daily); jazz brunch (Su).

813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433.

Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com BAYONA American. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; www.bayona.com

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544 Carondelet Street

ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. L, D (daily). 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. www.acmeoyster.com Map 3, E4; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6; www.acmeoyster.com

BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes share menu space with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp.

B, L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; www.bourbonhouse.com BRENNAN’S Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; www.brennansneworleans.com

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CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics.

B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530.

Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554. Map 3, G5; www.cafebeignet.com CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a must-do.

On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open 24h (daily). 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; www.cafedumonde.com CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection.

Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; www.caneandtablenola.com CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5; www.centralgrocery.com

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COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu of Creole and Cajun cuisine. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; www.courtoftwosisters.com DIAN XIN Chinese. Dim sum craving?

Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L (Su), D (Tu-Su). 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecued rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters.

D (nightly). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; www.dickiebrennanssteak house.com DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (nightly). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; www.dorismetropolitan.com FRENCH TOAST Breakfast. Breakfast is the focus of this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily).

1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518.

Map 3, H5; www.toastneworleans.com GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (Tu-Su).

209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021.

Map 3, E4; www.galatoires.com

HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain, filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings.

L, D (daily). 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4; www. hardrockcafe.com ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine, Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso buco-topped polenta and top-notch tiramisu.

L, D (daily). 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5; www.theitalianbarrel.com JEWEL OF THE SOUTH Contemporary. This aptly named gem takes its cue from a 19th-century restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, Roffigacs) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu of late-night bites. D (nightly). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; www.jewelnola.com JUSTINE French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: steak tartar, tuna Niçoise salad, moules frites. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su).

225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533.

Map 3, E4; www.justinenola.com K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.

His restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, such as bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders.

D (M-Sa). 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530.Map 3, F4; www.kpauls.com KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This tiny holein-the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. B, L, D (W-M).

219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731.

Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St.,

504.252.6745.Map 3, F4; www.killerpoboys.com KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers. 24h (daily). 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4; www. krystal.com LONGWAY TAVERN Eclectic. A proper gastropub with a comfy chic interior, solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. The pork belly home fries, fried calamari and hefty steak sandwiches will make you linger. L (F-Su), D (nightly).

719 Toulouse St., 504.962.9696.

Map 3, G4; www.longway tavern.com MANOLITO Cuban. A taste of Cuba in the heart of the French Quarter.

Pressed Cuban sandwiches, tender ropa vieja and shrimp ceviche are top food picks.

Pair with a martini, thrown Spanish-Cuban style. L (W-Su); D (nightly). 508 Dumaine St., 504.603.2740. Map 3, H4; www.manolitonola.com MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Musttries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su).

201 Royal St., 504.523.2078.

Map 3, E4; www.mrbsbistro.com NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas.

L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; www.napoleonhouse.com NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole. Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, char-grilled oysters and a raw bar. L, D (daily).

510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632.

SEPTEMBER 2019

Dining

Map 3, G5 ; www.neworleans creolecookery.com NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter bistro’s small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oyster-and-brie pot pie. L, D (daily). 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652.

Map 3, F5; www.emerils.com

Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard Happy Hour 3-6 PM Daily in our Oyster Bar! Book your reservation on Open Table.

Fresh oysters, Southern-inspired cocktails and weekend brunch from 11am–3pm, starting August 31.

630 Carondelet St. 504 930 3071 @seaworthynola seaworthynola.com

PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish.

B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; www.palacecafe.com RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. L, D (daily). 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200.

Map 3, E4; www.redfish grill.com RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; www.revolutionnola.com

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510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former Saint Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle.

B, L, D (daily). 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4; www.olesaint.com

SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Chick Syl-vain sandwiches and pasta Bolognese.

D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123.

Map 3, G4; www.sylvainnola.com TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily).

616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463.

Map 3, G4; www.tableaufrench quarter.com

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TUJAGUE’S Creole. Open since 1856, Tujague’s (“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5; www.tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere.

L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; www.commanderspalace.com COQUETTE French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have fried chicken. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2800 Magazine St.,

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Oktoberfest

WE WANT YOU IN GRETNA DURING OCTOBER! Concerts on the River - Every Friday night Movies on the River - Every Saturday night Oktoberfest - October 12 Citywide Yard Sale • Art Walk - October 12 Gretna Goblin Night - October 31

504-363-1552 • scook@gretnala.com • www.GretnaLA.com

Gretna Goblin Night

Gretna Art Walk

SEPTEMBER 2019

Dining

504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; www.coquettenola.com MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE Breakfast. The sandwich gurus behind Turkey and the Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast spot. Collard greens and grits, sweet potato burritos, deviled egg tostadas—expect the unexpected. B (W-M). 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896.

Map 1, D4; www.mollysriseandshine.com

Elegant Northern Italian Cuisine in a Quaint French Quarter Setting

430 Barracks Street (near the Historic French Market)

www.italianbarrel.com Reservations: 504.569.0198 | Catering or Private Parties: 504.982.6969 Open: Sunday - �ursday 11am - 10pm; Friday - Saturday 11am - 11pm Italian Breakfast: Monday - Friday 8am -11am; Saturday & Sunday 9am - 12pm

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily).

600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111.

Map 1, E3; www.bacchanal wine.com BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO American. Along with pastries and cakes, this sweet neighborhood spot makes happiness happen with an easygoing menu of sandwiches, soups, salads and breakfast go-cups.

B, L (daily). 3624 Dauphine St., 504.366.3336. Map 1, E3; www.bywaterbakery.com THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; www. thecountryclubneworleans.com

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Reservations Recommended

TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M).

739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428.

Map 1, D4; www.turkeyandthe wolf.com

ELYSIAN BAR Eclectic. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as whipped ricotta with preserved mushrooms on flatbread or chicken confit with white beans and roasted apples. L, D (daily). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6768. Map 1, E3; www.theelysianbar.com THE JOINT Barbecue. This funky Bywater fave is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. L, D (M-Sa).

701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232.

Map 1, E3; www.alwayssmokin.com

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PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; www.paladar511.com ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns.

The stunning space features 11 food vendors, along with a bar. L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813.Map 1, E3; www.strochmarket.com

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts.

If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D, (Tu-Su). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583.

Map 1, D3; www.blueoakbbq.com PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN Louisiana. The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oys-

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ter, shrimp, catfish and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list.

L, D (W-M). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; www.parkwaypoorboys.com PIECE OF MEAT Deli. The menu at this petit butcher shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheese-and-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs.

L (Th-Tu), D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su).

3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289.

Map 1, D3; www.pieceofmeat butcher.com RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000.

Map 1, D2; www.ralphsonthepark.com TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana .Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L, D (TuSa); Br (Su). 845 Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999.Map 1, D3; www.toupsmeatery.com WILLIE MAE’S SCOTCH HOUSE Southern. This beloved neighborhood eatery draws foodies from around the globe with its famous fried chicken and other Southern standards. L (M-Sa).

2401 St. Ann St., 504.822.9503.

Map 1, D3 ; www.williemaesnola.com ZASU Seafood. Award-winning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate, Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, citrus-poached shrimp, saltine-crusted grouper with braised greens and crawfish.

Word of advice: Do not skip dessert. D (M-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; www.zasunola.com

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE

WHEN YOU SEE LES CLEFS D’OR KEYS. PLAY. EXPLORE. FEAST. ACCOMPLISH. No one knows more or can do more for you than Les Clefs d’Or Concierges. Search beyond the internet, and discover for yourself why anything is possible with Les Clefs d’Or Concierges.

SEPTEMBER 2019

UPCYCLED DESIGNER STADIUM BAGS

(504) 522-9222 719 Royal St New Orleans LA 70116

BAR FRANCES American. The food is divine at this warm and homey spot.

Start with whipped feta and toasty country bread before diving into mussels with pistachio pesto or an excellent hanger steak and fries with Argentinian chimichurri. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 4525 Freret St., 504.371.5043. Map 1, D3 ; www.barfrances.com CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as New Orleans-style cassoulet.

No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise.

D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928.

Map 1, C3; www.carrollton market.com CAVAN Southern. This Victorian home’s “beautiful deterioration” is an ideal setting for modern Southern cuisine.

Start with the crawfish-andgoat cheese king cake before tackling the double burger with Sazerac BBQ sauce. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4; www.cavannola.com

F E ATUR E D A RTI ST: JOAN SLI FKA

ESTATE & CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELRY NEW ORLEANS & VINTAGE CHARMS 534 Royal St. • (504) 522-1305 www.lapetitfleur.com

COSTERA Spanish. The Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas (papas bravas, blistered peppers, grilled octopus), along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. L, D (W-M).

4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332.

Map 1, D4 ; www.costera restaurant.com

LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted.

Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. $ B, L (M-Sa). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; www.laboulangerienola.com PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4; www.pascalsmanale.com PATOIS Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois combines Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a low-key neighborhood bar scene. L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4; www.patoisnola.com PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY Southern. Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this playful Commander’s Palace offshoot. Begin with the smoked fish dip and finish with cookie-dough s’mores.

L, D (daily). 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4; www.nolapicnic.com SABA Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees,

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© Copyright 2017-Ronaldo Designer Jewelry, Inc-All rights reserved

AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; www.restaurantavo.com

DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine.

Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3; www.dtbnola.com

Dining

Bungalow’s

Uptown

such as octopus with shawarma spices. L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 3, D4; www.eatwithsaba.com SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare with contemporary flair. Top picks include the pakoda choti and roti sathi. L (F-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; www.saffronnola.com

SHOPPING Art Galleries & Antiques

SH O P P IN G

A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; www.agallery.com ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired

by Mick Jagger, among other collectors. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4; www.alexbeardstudio.com ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Woodrow Nash and Patterson & Barnes. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; www.angelakinggallery.com ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries.

927 Royal St., 504.304.0849.

Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4; www.antieaugallery.com ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France on Royal Street, featuring 17thand 18th-century antiques,

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including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars.

623 Royal St., 504.529.4342.

Map 3, G4; www.antiques deprovencellc.com ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999.

Map 3, C5; www.arthurroger gallery.com ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works—oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks—by dozens of regional artists. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5; www.artistsmarketnola.com BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485.

Map 3, F4; www.bevolo.com CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; www.craigtracy.com FISCHER-GAMBINO An eclectic shop specializing in fine lighting fixtures, as well as statuary, furniture and home interesting home accents.

637 Royal St., 504.524.9067.

Map 3, G4; www.lighting neworleans.com FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and

the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others.

910 Royal St., 504.388.7601.

Map 3, H4; www.frankrelle.com FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861.Map 3, E4; www.gofrenchantiques.com FUNERAL GALLERY Offbeat illustrations, macabre assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4; www.funeralgallery.com JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and others.

Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured.

400A Julia St., 504.522.5471.

Map 3, C6; www.jonathanferrara gallery.com LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6; www.lemieuxgalleries.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660.

Map 3, G4; www.rauantiques.com MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERIES This branch of the nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings and sculpture by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4; www.martinlawrence.com

MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable.

You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes.

617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; www.michalopoulos.com MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques.

305 Royal St., 504.571.5157.

Map 3, F4; www.modernist cuisinegallery.com MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery, which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4; www.mossantiques.com MYTH GALLERY Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases the whimsical sculpture of R. Scott Long. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312.Map 3, H4; www.myth-gallery.com NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASSWORKS & PRINTMAKING STUDIO This working artists’ studio features free demonstrations by local master crafters in blown glass, printmaking and fine silver. Designs made in the studio are for sale. 727 Magazine St., 504.5297277. Map 3, C6; www. neworleansglassworks.com OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space spotlights local and international artists. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6; www.octaviaartgallery.com RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art” by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4; www.redtruckgallery.com

SEPTEMBER 2019

Shopping

RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark is devoted to the works of the late great “Blue Dog” master, George Rodrigue. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; www.georgerodrigue.com ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8; www.rosetreegallery.com SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.”

4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; www.ashleylongshore.com

TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life.

3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; www.terranceosborne.com VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and retro barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This fine art gallery features

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STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space.

The evocative collection explores African-American life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm.

2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231.

Map 1, E3; www.ephemeral eternal.com

original works from the old masters (Durer, Rembrandt) and masters of the belle époque, (Cheret, Lautrec, Mucha) to the modern masters (Picasso, Dali, Miro, Matisse, Chagall) and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art (Warhol, Francis, Frankenthaler, Motherwell).

Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4; www.windsorfineart.com

Books & Music BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare, antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5; www.beckhamsbookshop.com

SH O P P IN G

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940.

Map 3, G4; www. faulkner housebooks.com GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books.

Frequent author appearances.

2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266.

Map 1, D4; www.gardendistrict bookshop.com LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Live performances on Saturdays.

421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; www.louisianamusicfactory.com SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

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Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; www.billyreid.com DIRTY COAST You won’t find your standard Bourbon Street T-shirts here.

Catering to locals and in-theknow visitors, Dirty Coast’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans.

713 Royal St., 504.324.6730.

Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745.Map 1, D4; www.dirtycoast.com GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear and stylish stores are found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890.

Map 1, D3; www.goorin.com HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, accessories by such lines as BCBG and Laundry are found here. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009.

Map 1, D4; www.shophemline.com QUEORK Cork is the get at this sleek boutique, where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more.

838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585.

Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803.Map 1, D4; www.queork.com TRASHY DIVA Original and vintage-inspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie and accessories. 537 Royal St.,504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; www.trashydiva.com

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; www.shopual.com

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and great gift items.

719 Royal St., 504.522.9222.

Map 3, G4; www.shop bungalows.com DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with his decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; www.derbypottery.com HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY This magical emporium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners, and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558.

Map 3, I5; www.hexwitch.com LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770.

Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5; www.littletoyshopnola.com MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME “The oldest perfumer in the South” lives on thanks to her great grand-nephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines are featured.

608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975.

Map 3, F4; www.madame aucoinperfume.com

NOLA BOARDS Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. 4304 Magazine St., 504.435.1485. Map 1, D4; www.nolaboards.com NOLA KIDS This children’s boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340.

Map 3, F4; www.shopnola kids.com ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with select serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4; www.shoprouxroyale.com

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and topof-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090.

Map 1, D4; www.aidangillfor men.com BELLADONNA DAY SPA Attempting to cover the entire six-mile stretch of Magazine Street can run even the most ardent shopper ragged.

Thankfully, Belladonna sits at the halfway point, providing rejuvenation before heading back out on the hunt. 2900 Magazine St., 504.891.4393.

Map 1, D4; www.belladonna dayspa.com HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that has been in business for 80-plus years.

Among the perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents.

434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827.

Map 3, F5; www.hoveparfumeur.com

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THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious, award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café.

921 Canal St., 504.670.2929.

Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10 private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate French clay, roses and water lilies. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200.

Map 3, E3; www.roosevelt neworleans.com

AT T R A C T IO N S

TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these centrally located relaxation stations, which specialize in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget.

Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; www. artandeyesneworleansla.com FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254.

Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4; www.fleurdorleans.com KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of glasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New

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Orleans street. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462.

Map 1, D4; www.krewe.com LA PETIT FLEUR Specializing in estate and contemporary jewelry, La Petit Fleur is well known for its own line of pendants based on the fleur de lis. The shop also offers Crescent City-themed charms..

534 Royal St., 504.522.1305.

Map 3, G4; www.lapetit fleur.com PORTER LYONS Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 631 Toulouse St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G5; www.porterlyons.com

Malls/ Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and the airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora.

3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; www.lakesideshopping.com THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio.

500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; www.riverwalkneworleans.com THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; www. theshopsatcanalplace.com

Shoes GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers to dress shoes.

539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929.

Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2; www.orleansshoes.com JOHN FLUEVOG “Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers.

321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296.

Map 3, F4; www.fluevog.com NOLA FOOT CANDY Sweet treats for your feet.

Located along Jackson Square, this womens shoe shop stocks a wide variety of fun and fashionable styles. 510 St. Peter St., 504.252.9144. Map 3, G4; www.nolafootcandy.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cutting-edge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; www.shoebedousa.com

Special Services PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICES This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with 40 related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415.

Map 1, D4; www.packrat shipping.com

AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater.

Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN & INSECTARIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36).

St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of the dead” act as windows on the past, offering insight into local history and customs. Many are located in high-crime areas.

Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night.

Attractions & Landmarks

CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888.

Map 1, D2; www.neworleans citypark.com

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre green space is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root.

N. Rampart and St. Ann streets.

Map 3, H2

CRESCENT PARK Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; www.crescentparknola.org

ATTRACTIONS

SEPTEMBER 2019

Sun–Thu 10 – 6, Fr i – S a t 10 – 9 • 6 1 7 B i e nv i l l e S t , N e w O r l e a n s

JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5

NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This pocket park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and live music.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608.

Map 3, F4; www.neworleans musicallegends.com NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & STORE Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320.

Map 3, F5; www.nosoc.com

LAFITTE GREENWAY This 2.6-mile bike and pedestrian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park. The ADAcompliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. Map 3, F2; www.lafittegreenway.org

OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; www.stlouiscathedral.org

MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; www.mardigrasworld.com

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ; www.smoothiekingcenter.com

MERCEDES-BENZ SUPERDOME The recently revamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; www.mbsuperdome.com

ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH The second-oldest AfricanAmerican Catholic church in the nation. A jazz Mass is held Sundays at 10 am. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2; www.staugustine catholicchurch-neworleans.org

NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS This popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. 919

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily.

615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square), 504.525.9585.

Map 3, G4; www.stlouis cathedral.org

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THE GUIDE

637 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA 504.524.9067 / 888.524.9067 www.lightingneworleans.com

HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino features 2,100 slots, 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6; www.harrahsneworleans.com

Josephine St., 504.525.2495.

Map 1, D3; www.seelos.org

Attractions

LIGHTING - ART - FURNITURE

FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5; www.frenchmarket.org

WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Museums BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous sendoffs and second-line parades.

Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm.

1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2; www.backstreetmuseum.org

AT T R A C T IO N S

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. 900 Camp St.,

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504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; www.cacno.org GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; www.hgghh.org HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/ museum provides a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; www.hgghh.org HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions and permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa,

9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; www.hnoc.org LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates five French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbyère, the circa-1789 Madame John’s Legacy (presently closed ofr repairs); the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. 504.568.6968. www. louisianastatemuseum. org NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.”

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944.

Map 3, B6; ww.nationalww2 museum.org

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free outdoor sculpture garden.

Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm.

1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; www.noma.org NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm.

514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027.

Map 3, G4; www.pharmacy museum.org OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open F-W, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St.,

SEPTEMBER 2019

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SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB features exhibits, along with cooking classes.

Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm.

1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3; www.southernfood.org

Attractions

504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; www.ogdenmuseum.org

Plantations DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley.

Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Closed all major holidays.

13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095. www.destrehan plantation.org 520 Royal Street www.hnoc.org • (504) 523-4662

HERMANN- GRIMA + GALLIER HISTORIC HOUSES

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds.

Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877.303.1776 for details.

40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380. www.houmas house.com LAURA PLANTATION TripAdvisor’s top-rated River Road plantation tour authentically details 200 years of lives of Creole owners, women, slaves and children. The property features 12 historic structures, along with a slavery museum and French garden. Guided tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm. 2247 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. www.laura plantation.com NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White Castle of Louisiana” is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South.

Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Overnight accommodations available; reservations

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THE GUIDE

#artofthecitynola

recommended.

31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. www.nottoway.com OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture-perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a spectacular sight.

“The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers overnight accommodations in century-old cottages. Guided tours daily, 9 am-5 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. www.oakalleyplantation.org

EN T ER TA IN M EN T

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home, built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. Closed major holidays.

2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. www.sanfrancisco plantation.org ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of 19th-century architect Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. 535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. www.stjosephplantation.com WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300. www.whitneyplantation.com

ENTERTAINMENT Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore Louisiana swamplands via guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an addi-

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tional fee. 504.689.2005 or 888.

GO.SWAMP. www.airboat adventures.com CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. 504.587.7115. www.celebrationtoursllc.com CITY SEGWAY TOURS Why walk when you can glide?

Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. www.city segwaytours.com Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING This double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; www. citysightseeingneworleans.com CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored neighborhoods. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468.

Map 3, J5; www.confederacyof cruisers.com

St. Joseph Plantation -Family owned since 1877.

St. Joseph Plantation -Original cabins of the Enslaved.

St.-Annual Joseph Plantation -Family owned since 1877.

Creole Mourning Tour the

-Original cabins of the Enslaved.

-Family owned since 1877. month of October.Tour the -Annual -OriginalCreole cabinsMourning of the Enslaved.

-Birthplace of 19th century architect, October.Tour -Annualmonth Creole of Mourning the Henry H. Richardson.

-Birthplace of 19th century month of October.architect, -ToursHenry offered days a week.

H.seven Richardson.

-Birthplace of 19th century architect, -Tours offered days aLAweek.

Henry H.seven Richardson.

3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, 70090 -Tours offered seven days a week.

3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, LA 70090

STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM

3535 Hwy. 18 (River Road), Vacherie, LA 70090

STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM STJOSEPHPLANTATION.COM

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; www.creolequeen.com DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter.

504.578.8280. www.drinkandlearn.com FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost

SEPTEMBER 2019

Entertainment

and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. All tours depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street); reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; www.frenchquarter phantoms.com FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5; www.friendsofthecabildo.org GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line offers a variety of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, Steamboat and River Cruises—and all possible combinations. All depart from the Toulouse Street Wharf.

Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; www.graylineneworleans.com

JEAN LAFITTE SWAMP TOURS This privately owned company with trained guides provides an up-close look at local flora and fauna. Daily swamp and airboat tours are offered. Transportation from area hotels available. 6601 Leo Kerner Lafitte Pkwy., Marrero, 504.529.4567. www.jeanlafitte swamptour.com NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and informed at the same time. Guided runs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized excursions are also available. 504.858.9988. www.neworleansjogging tours.com

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HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. www.haunted historytours.com

NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOUR These guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city.

Departs Friday to Sunday at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5; www.spiritsandspellstour.com RIVERBOAT CITY OF NEW ORLEANS The city’s newest riverboat has all of the flair and flavor of the city, with great dining, jazz, bars, history and culture. Daily jazz brunch and dinner cruises are offered. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401.

Map 3, E7; www.riverboatcity ofneworleans.com

N IG H T L IF E

SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm from Backatown Coffee Parlour (301 Basin St.). Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). 504.525.3377. www.save ourcemeteries.org STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; www.steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails EFFERVESENCE This bubbly spot features 90plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. Open W-Su. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; www.nolabubbles.com HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the author

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once stayed here) this sophisticated space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3; www.hottinbar.com LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H4; www. lafittesblacksmithshop.com PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; www.patobriens.com

We’ve combined five tours into ONE EXCITING CITY TOUR FRENCH QUARTER • KATRINA RECOVERY • HITORIC CHEMETERIES GARDEN DISTRICT • NEW ORLEANS ARCHITECTURE

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip.

State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354.

Map 3, E4; www.penthouse clubneworleans.com SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic cocktails in the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.309.6530. Map 3, E3; www. therooseveltneworleans.com VICTORY Mixologist Daniel Victory is shaking things up at his hip gastro lounge with killer classics and cool, contemporary combos. Sip a cocktail of the day while nibbling on truffle popcorn, pizza and other light bites.

339 Baronne St., 504.522.8664.

Map 3, D4 ; www.victorynola.com WALK-ON’S Within walking distance of the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. 1009 Poydras St., 504.648.1200. Map 3, C4; www. walk-ons.com

JUST STEPS AWAY FROM

THE ALGIERS POINT FERRY! SEPTEMBER 2019

APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.766.6193. Map 3, J5; www.bluenilelive.com D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively weehours scene. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5; www.dbaneworleans.com

In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church - Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing - Religious Articles - Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street)

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GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown music venue. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3; www.gasagasa.com HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; www.hob.com THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features a rotating roster of leading local talent nightly at 8 pm.

MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; www.mapleleafbar.com PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Don’t want sit on the floor or stand in the back?

Call ahead for Big Shot seats.

726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841.

Map 3, G4; www.preservationhall.com SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly.

626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696.Map 3, J4; www.snugjazz.com THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) . 623 Frenchmen St., no phone.Map 3, J5; www.spot tedcatmusicclub.com STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6; ww.stagedoorcanteen.org THREE MUSES This hip space is a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; www.3musesnola.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars.. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; www.tipitinas.com

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National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS

THE FILLMORE NEW ORLEANS Harrah’s Casino ups the live-music ante with this 22,000 sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which feaures top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; www.fillmorenola.com

300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299.

Map , F4; www.sonesta.com/ jazzplayhouse

Nightlife

Live Entertainment

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19-HRCSE-1546 WHERE MAGAZINE.indd 1 3/7/2019 11:16:33 AM

NEW ORLEANS Maps

NEW ORLEANS NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

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THE GUIDE

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NEW ORLEANS CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

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New Orleans International Cruise Terminal 1/8 mi 200 m

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SEPTEMBER 2019

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Maps

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 K CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 1 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 2 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 3 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 4 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott at the Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 St OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 ia n e Av OR vOmni e Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 Sp ch lin A Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 Ro FrankOO t S PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RF Royal Frenchman, 400 Esplanade Ave., 619-9660 J4 7 Street Direction RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 French Quarter RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like.

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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THE GUIDE

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WHERE NEXT THROUGH YOUR LENS

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PARTING SHOT

Strike a Pose Silver Man, Uncle Sam, the American Worker: Like music, mimes are an intrinsic part of the city’s entertainment scene. You’ll find them in Jackson Square and along Bourbon Street.

56

W HERETRAVELER ® NEW ORLE A NS

SEPTEMBER 2019

Double Plantation Tour OAK ALLEY

LAURA

Three Unique Stories of Plantation Life

Choose a TWO plantation combination Whitney & Laura | Laura & Oak Alley | Whitney & Oak Alley ENJOY OUR OTHER TOURS: SUPER CITY • SWAMP • AIRBOAT • KATRINA PLANTATION/BRUNCH/SWAMP • COCKTAIL GARDEN DISTRICT • FRENCH QUARTER CEMETERY & VOODOO • GHOSTS & SPIRITS • GROUPS • SEASONAL

Locally owned & touring New Orleans since 1924!

504-569-1401 | 800-233-2628 | GrayLineNewOrleans.com

steamboat

Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com