Where Magazine New Orleans October 2017

New Orleans

OCTOBER 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

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ART FOR ARTS’ SAKE ULTIMATE INDULGENCES SAINTS HOME GAMES FOOD FETES

CREEPERIFIC! Monstrous fun, from Halloween haunts to the Voodoo Experience and more

ART & EY&S

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494

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boo!!

Cutting edge frames.......

INDY EYEWEAR LIKE NO WHERE ELSE.

New Orleans CONTENTS

10.17

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the plan

the guide 20

9 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Robert Bergeron Concierge at Harrah’s Hotel.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood.

Plus blue-ribbon po’ boys and a renewed NOLA.

10 Editor’s Itinerary A 90-minute exploration of the Warehouse District to make the most of your time in the city.

XX 28 SHOPPING Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus a Wilkinson Street stroll and little shops of horror.

12 Hot Dates Halloween Haunts Frightful fun, the Voodoo Music + Arts Experience, Bruno Mars and 22 other entertainment ideas.

15

GALLERIES &

35 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl.

Plus Art for Arts’ Sake and dog-tagged jewelry.

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus the New Orleans Film Festival and music for the record.

XX

50

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus the Tammany Trace.

64 New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for supernatural seekers, music fans and history geeks.

ON THE COVER "Wolfman,"

New Orleans

OCTOBER 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

®

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NAVIGATE

18

where now

XX

58

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus a fresh perspective on the past.

from artist Chris Roberts-Antieau’s "Misunderstood

ULTIMATE INDULGENCES

A 10-stop, top-notch tour of the town.

SAINTS HOME GAMES FOOD FETES

Monsters" series. ©ANTIEAU GALLERY

14 City Style

ART FOR ARTS’ SAKE

CREEPERIFIC! Monstrous fun, from Halloween haunts to the Voodoo Experience and more

E~NO-WM_171000_01_Cover.indd 2

8/31/17 3:03 PM

16 Out + About

Sports events, Algiers Point and Eastern imagery.

CONNECT WITH US

17 Local Flavor

Food fests for thought.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

Neighborhood noshing, hot restaurant dish and Gateau to Go.

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 61-63

(LEFT) ©KAI Z FENG; (CENTER, TOP) ©ROYAL SONESTA HOTEL; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©DOUG BRANTLEY

41 ENTERTAINMENT XX

YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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8 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Robert Bergeron Concierge at Harrah’s Hotel Q: The Saints play three home games this month. Where would you suggest watching them if you don’t have tickets?

A: Walk-On’s (p. 48) is close to the Superdome and Champions Square, so there are always a lot of people there.

Second would be Manning’s (p. 21), which has a great patio, a 13-ft. TV and the barbecue pit going on games days. And, third, the Bulldog (p. 46) on Magazine Street.

Q: There are also a number of food fests in October. Which are you most hungry for?

A: The Oak Street Po’ Boy Festival (p. 17). I like the diversity of it; they have seafood, meat, vegetarian varieties—a little bit of everything. And I like the Oak Street/ Riverbend area. A lot of festivals take place at Woldenberg Park, Jackson Square and the Old U.S. Mint, so it’s nice to get away from the same old, same old.

Q: Name an often-overlooked neighborhood visitors should seek out.

A: Again, the Riverbend. It’s away from downtown, accessible by streetcar and gives you a different vibe and scenery. And there are so many great restaurants around there, like Brightsen’s for fine dining (p. 27) and Cowbell (p. 27) for a good burger.

Q: What’s the scariest thing about Halloween in New Orleans?

A: Some of the more risqué costumes you see. It seems they’re getter smaller and smaller … or people are getting bigger.

Maybe both.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©MANNING'S

Manning's

9

EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY NEWS TO TRAVEL BY

The Essential New Orleans October signals the official opening of the Crescent City’s cultural season, starting with the Art for Arts’ Sake gallery stroll and capped by the Voodoo Music + Arts Experience. In between are numerous events for just about every area of interest, from cutting-edge films to contemporary ballet. Get out and get cultured.

90 MINUTES IN

The Warehouse District Once devoted to crumbling19th-century warehouses, the aptly named Warehouse District is now known as “the SoHo of the South,” thanks to its many museums and art galleries. The Contemporary Arts Center, Ogden Museum of Southern Art, Confederate Memorial Hall Museum and National WWII Museum are all within a three-block radius of each other, while Julia Street offers dozens of great galleries, monthly art strolls and annual events, such as Art for Arts’ Sake (Oct. 7). The area also counts a number of notable restaurants, including Emeril’s and Pêche, the Morial Convention Center, Mardi Gras World and the Port of New Orleans, through which more than a million cruise passengers pass each year.

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10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

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TOP STOPS

HOT

18 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

CHAMPIONS SQUARE Oct. 19: The XX; Oct. 26: Jason Aldean. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

DATES

HISTORIC NEW OR LEANS COLLECTION Oct. 20: Robin Barnes. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662

Boo at the Zoo

OCTOBER 20-31:

Halloween Happenings

Looking to scare up a good time? A month full of frightful fun kicks off with the Audubon Zoo’s kid-friendly Boo at the Zoo (Oct. 20-21 and 27-28) and City Park’s Ghosts in the Oaks (Oct. 20-22).

Things really get rolling Oct. 21 at 6 pm, when the family oriented Krewe of Boo Parade passes through the French Quarter. Big kids are catered to with Jello shots, an open beer bar and other tricks and treats Oct. 27 during Brews and Boos at City Park and with the more adult-themed Jim Monaghan’s Halloween Parade, which takes to the streets of the Quarter Oct. 31 at 6:30 pm.

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

Mars caption here

1 PONDEROSA STOMP > OCT. 57 “Celebrating the unsung heroes of American music,” this biennial affair offers two nights of rockabilly, swamp pop, R&B and soul performances at the Orpheum Theater, along with a tandem music-history conference and record show. 800.745.3000; ponderosastomp.com

BOOK OF SAINTS > OCT. 68 The Marigny Opera Ballet opens its 2017-2018 season with the world premiere of this new work by New York-based choreographer Teresa Fellion. Marigny Opera House, 725 St. Ferdinand St., 504.948.9998 2

Voodoo Fest

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

ESCAPE TO MARGARITAVILLE > OCT. 2028 Calling all parrotheads! Singer/songwriter/ author/actor/mogul Jimmy Buffett tosses his 3

12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

multitalented hat into the musical theater ring. Catch his pre-Broadway premiere at the Saenger Theatre. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 4 BRUNO MARS > OCT. 21 The multiple Grammy winner brings a little “24K Magic” to the Smoothie King Center. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, 800.745.3000

5 VOODOO FEST > OCT. 2729 Kendrick Lamar, the Foo Fighters and The Killers headline the 18th annual music and arts experience, joined by 60-plus additional acts on multiple stages at City Park’s Festival Grounds. 800.745.3000; voodoofestival.com

6 WWII AIR, SEA & LAND FEST > OCT. 2729 The art deco Lakefront Airport is an ideal setting for this show of the military force that helped propel “the greatest generation” to victory. Aircraft flyovers and boat tours are featured. nationalww2museum.org/events

JOY THEATER Oct. 1: Cameron Esposito & Rhea Butcher; Oct. 17: Roadcase Royale; Oct. 21: Gogol Bordello; Oct. 26: Keller Williams’ Grateful Grass. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569 MUSIC BOX VILLAGE Oct. 13: Peaches; Oct. 14: “Pitch Dark”; Oct. 21 & 22: “Treemonisha”; Oct. 31: Airlift’s Halloween Bash. 4557 N. Rampart St.; musicboxvillage.com ORPHEUM THEATER Oct. 13: In This Moment; Oct. 15: Herbie Hancock. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Oct. 6: Comedy Get Down. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 TIPITINA’S Oct. 5: Rainbow Kitten Surprise; Oct. 6: Thundercat. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477

(TOP) ©JEFF STROUT/AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; (CENTER) ©KAI Z FENG; (BOTTOM) ©CHARLES REAGAN HACKLEMAN

HOUSE OF BLUES Oct. 7: Bustout Burlesque; Oct. 28: New Orleans Vampire Ball 2017. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583

where now New Orleans

Former New Orleans Saint Lance Moore sporting a black-andgold tux from Fellow Suits 14 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

The city’s top attractions, events, dining and more

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CITY STYLE

Big-Ticket Big Easy

(TOP) ©AVERY FINE PERFUMERY; (RIGHT) ©M.S. RAU ANTIQUES; (CENTER) ©ROYAL SONESTA HOTEL; (BOTTOM) ©COMMANDER’S PALACE; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©FELLOW SUITS

Put down the smartphone, shut out the work noise and don’t even think about making that bed. You’re on vacation. The idea is to elevate your stay from the everyday. That’s not hard to do in New Orleans, where out-of-the-ordinary is the norm. No worries, no responsibilities and no penny-pinching. Just let go and indulge.

AVERY FINE PERFUMERY Step into this “smell gallery” and set off on a world tour of fragrances. Scent stylists help you build a customized “fragrance wardrobe” with art perfume brands from around the globe. More a fan of home than body fragrance? The shop’s chic ceramic sculptures double as diffusers. 527 St. Joseph St., 504.522.7102

M.S. Rau

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES One of the city’s oldest antiques galleries is also one of the nation’s largest. For more than a century, M.S. Rau has ruled Royal Street with a stellar selection of 18thand 19th-century art, jewelry and collectibles. Beginning Oct. 21 it mounts “Aristocracy: Luxury and Leisure in Britain,” a free exhibit exploring Victorian-era England.

630 Royal St., 504.523.5660 BEHIND THE LINES TOUR One could easily spend two full days taking in all of the National WWII Museum’s holdings and attractions, and its exclusive fivehour, behind-the-scenes experience lets you do just that. Climb inside a Sherman tank, get handson with historic artifacts, grab lunch with a curator and receive a pass for a second day to explore on your own. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944

Avery Fine Perfumery

WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This elegant escape inside the equally elegant Roosevelt Hotel provides a full line of spa services, from facials to massages, along with specialty treatments and lavish luxuries. Take the decadent Diamond Body therapy, which incorporates precious stones and gold-enriched creams. A complimentary glass of champagne?

Yes, please. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Tiffany & Co., Coach, Saks Fifth Avenue, lululemon: That’s just a small sampling of the many highend retailers found at this upscale mall. On the third floor is a ninescreen theater, where moviegoers can order gourmet snacks and cocktails straight from their seats.

333 Canal St., 504.522.9200

Commander’s Palace

FELLOW SUITS Where do sharp-dressed Saints like Roman Harper and Brandon Coleman turn for fashion advice?

Fellow Suits, where tailors take up to 30 measurements to ensure the perfect fit, and guide guys through the process of selecting the right fabrics, styles and personal touches for a handcrafted, one-of-a-kind look. fellowmenswear.com WINDSOR COURT TEA With paintings of British royal life adorning its lobby, hallways and Polo Club Lounge, the Windsor Court Hotel emits a decidedly English air, which makes its traditional afternoon tea all the more authentic. Sip from 26 different varieties and nibble on truffled egg salad sandwiches and scones with lemon curd, while Rachel Van Voorhees, principal harpist for the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra, strums in the background. 300 Gravier St., 504.523.6000 COMMANDER’S CHEF’S TABLE A place at Commander’s Palace’s Chef’s Table, located smack in the middle of the kitchen, is an exciting experience, full of people, bustle, energy and, of course, amazing food. Chef Tory McPhail chats with diners ahead of time, so he and his team can create a pitch-perfect,

specialized and thoughtful menu.

Cocktail and wine pairings can also be arranged. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221 EFFERVESCENCE Champagne is the order at this French Quarter bubbles bar, where a tony crowd toasts the 90 different bottles (and 18 bythe-glass) on offer. Settle in for an international flight of French, Italian, Spanish or American varieties, while noshing on caviar and sophisticated small plates. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644

The Jazz Playhouse

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE Walk-ins are welcome at the Royal Sonesta Hotel’s swanky jazz club, where visiting musicians, such as Stevie Wonder, have been known to stop by for an impromptu set.

But why take your chances on finding a seat when you can secure a front row spot for just $20?

300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299 15

WHERE NOW New

Orleans On Point

Old Point Bar

St.), an enormous Gothic cathedral; and Rosetree Glass Studio (p.

40), located in a restored 1930s art deco theater.

Grab a bite at one of the neighborhood cafés (p. 18), tip a pint at the British-themed Crown & Anchor Pub (200 Pelican St.) or catch a band at the Old Point Bar (p.

46), one of the city’s best-kept live music secrets. Music lovers should also check out the free Wednesdays on the Point concert series (wednesdaysonthepoint.com), which continues through Oct. 18.

EASTERN EXPOSURES Though many 19th-century American landscape photographers focused on the eastern half of the nation, their images are often Saints quarterback Drew Brees

OUT+ABOUT

overshadowed by the vast vistas of the West. East of the Mississippi, a joint exhibition co-organized by the New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 46) and the National Gallery of Art in Washing-

Sportsman’s Paradise

ton D.C., is out to change that. On view are 150 works charting the

Sports worlds collide during October, with the city hosting a trio of both NFL and NBA games. The New Orleans Saints kick things off Oct. 15, taking on the Detroit Lions at the Superdome, then tackle the Green Bay Packers Oct. 22, before squaring off against the Chicago Bears Oct. 29. All games take place at noon. B-ball fans score Oct. 20, when the New Orleans Pelicans hit the hardwood at the Smoothie King Center against the Golden State Warriors at 8:30 pm in their first home game of the season. The following week they tip off against the Cleveland Cavaliers (Oct. 28 at 6 pm) and the Orlando Magic (Oct. 30 at 7 pm). Soccer buff? Catch the U.S. Women’s National Team’s match against the Korea Republic Oct. 19 at 7 pm at the Dome.

the oldest photos ever made in the U.S. From daguerreotypes to

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

evolution of the art form, from 1839 to 1899, including some of stereoscopic cards, the exhibit captures the ravages of the Civil War and the onslaught of industrialization, along with early urban infrastructure and the rise of tourism.

“East of the Mississippi”

(LEFT) ©MICHAEL C. HEBERT; (RIGHT) ©CHERYL GERBER; (BOTTOM) ©NOMA; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©GEORGE DOLGIKH/ISTOCK

That area across the river from the French Quarter? That’s Algiers Point, New Orleans’ second-oldest neighborhood, which is easily accessed via the Algiers ferry (p.

50). Established in 1719 and largely unchanged for 100 years, the Point is a network of small streets lined with charming houses in an array of architectural styles. Get a peek inside Oct. 21-22, during the Algiers Point Tour of Homes (algierspoint.org).

Neighborhood businesses join forces Oct. 7 for Get to the Point! (info@nolacitybeach.com), a free, self-guided champagne stroll with stops at local shops and eateries.

Other points of interest include the Jazz Walk of Fame, directly to the right of the ferry landing; the circa-1896 Algiers courthouse (225 Morgan St.), with its combination of Moorish and Romanesque architectural elements; Holy Name of Mary Church (400 Verret

w w w.wheretrave ler.c o m

LOCAL FLAVOR

What’s There to Eat? Eight great food events to sink your teeth into.

OKTOBERFEST Chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski mount their inaugural Tchouptoberfest, “a block party with beer, brats and rock,” Oct. 1 in front of Cochon (p. 20). Deutsches Haus keeps the suds flowing and the Oktoberfest party going Oct. 6-7, 13-14 and 20-21 on the grounds of its future home along Bayou St. John. linkstryjewski.org; deutscheshaus.org TASTE AMERICA The James Beard Foundation presents “A Night of Culinary Stars,” Oct. 6 at the Royal Sonesta Hotel, featuring 11 of the city’s top chefs, including Rebecca Wilcomb of Herbsaint (p. 21), winner of the foundation’s 2017 Best Chef: South award. jamesbeard.org/tasteamerica-new-orleans BEIGNET FEST More than a dozen vendors serve up both sweet and savory beignets Oct. 7 at City Park’s Festival Grounds, while live bands (Eric Lindell, the Imagination Movers) perform. beignetfest.com CRESCENT CITY BLUES AND BBQ FESTIVAL Two Southern staples combine for one fun weekend Oct. 13-15 at Lafayette Square (St. Charles Avenue and Lafayette Street). Load up on ribs while grooving to Grammy winners Robert Cray, Bobby Rush and others. jazzandheritage.org COCHON DE LAIT FESTIVAL Pig out on pork Oct. 21 at Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), during this fundraiser for local police. nolaporkfest.com NOLA MAC ’N’ CHEESE FEST More in the mood for mac? You’ll find plenty Oct. 21 at Armstrong Park (N. Rampart and St. Ann streets), where vendors vie for the coveted glass noodle trophy. nola-macncheesefest.com OAK STREET PO’ BOY FESTIVAL Pastrami brisket, shrimp and pimento cheese, pork schnitzel: There’s something for everyone at this annual salute to the city’s signature sandwich. Chow down Oct. 22 at Oak Street and S. Carrollton Avenue. poboyfest.com

Caption 7 pt, Myriad Pro Semibold Semi-extended Caption 7/9pt, Avenir Medium flush

17

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed.

Tavolino Pizza & Lounge

FOOD+DRINK

Over the River There is something magical about taking the Algiers ferry across the mighty Mississippi: the feel of the wind, the scent of the air, views of the shore, bridge and city. Then there’s the destination: Algiers Point (p. 16)—historic, beautiful and with lots delicious dining options.

Steps from the ferry landing is the Dry Dock Café, (133 Delaronde St., 504.361.8240) for classic local cuisine. Get messy with buttery barbecued shrimp or a gravy-drenched Cajun Roast Beef Po’ Boy. The Crawfish Maureenica (sautéed crawfish tails in garlic cream sauce over pasta) is sturdy and a clever twist on the popular Jazzfest staple.

Tavolino Pizza & Lounge (141 Delaronde St., 504.605.3365) is a relative newcomer to the Point.

The thoughtful Italian menu includes fun starters like Ping (pork-and-beef-stuffed fried Castelvetrano olives), bread knots with a choice of spread (try the honey-truffle goat cheese) and thin-crusted Neapolitanstyle pizzas (go meaty with the Carne—prosciutto, sausage and pepperoni).

A short walk from the ferry is Congregation Coffee (240 Pelican Ave., 504.265.0194), recently recognized by Food & Wine

magazine for its stamp on the booming local coffee scene. Wellsourced beans are roasted on-site for various blends spanning a variety of tastes. The brief-butmighty food menu is highlighted by homemade boudin with a side of cane syrup for dipping (weekends only), toasts, yogurt and coconut rice pudding. Yum. Chef Peter Vazquez operates the Appetite Repair Shop (p. 27), where the wildly varied menu crosses many cultures and cuisine styles of entrées, snacks, terrines, salads, sandwiches, sweets and other edibles based on whim.

Check his Facebook page for current offerings. Take note: Vazquez keeps later hours (generally after 5 pm) and his food sells out fast, but it’s a definite must.

Hop on the ferry to Algiers Point for an eating adventure across the river. Fear not, there’ll be plenty of time to relax and recover on the return trip, before continuing French Quarter-side. —Lorin Gaudin

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

AGLIO NEIGHBORHOOD DELI Chefs Michael Mericle and Marie Guevara have worked together at several restaurants, including the South Market sandwich spot Part & Parcel, which they now co-own and have renamed.

They’ve also ramped up the dishes, paying particular homage to their Louisiana and Sicilian heritages with family favorites like red gravy, fig cookies and meatballs taken to another level.

Happy hour runs long (3 to 7 pm) with lots of snacks; get the warm, creamy shrimp dip—seriously.

611 O’Keefe St., 504.827.1090 BLAKE’S ON POYDRAS Southern comfort food for a cause? Yes. Blake’s is named for owner Alex Miller’s autistic son, and proceeds from some dishes are donated to local autism organizations. Menu standouts include smoked gouda-and-bacon grits topped with jumbo shrimp and the N.Y.M. grilled cheese, which combines several cheeses,

bacon marmalade, avocado, bacon and tomato on toasted brioche. Huge breakfast options, a something-for-everyone dinner service and smart kids’ menus; nothing but good here. 920 Poydras St., 504.679.0991 SAFFRON NOLA Saffron’s Westbank restaurant is legendary for chic Indian dishes with contemporary flare. At its new Magazine Street location, you’ll find blistered naan bread on its own and alongside an Indian rendition of chargrilled oysters with onions, garlic and ginger. Top picks are the pakoda Choti Plate, the six for $25 Roti Sathi and any of the crispy dosa on the brunch menu. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626 —LG

Blake’s

LAST BITE Pastry chef Doyle DeForest has an enormous following for his stunning, special-occasion cakes from his bakery, Flour Power Confectionery, in nearby Chalmette. Answering the call of his many fans for single servings of cake, and recognizing that slices can be messy and don’t travel well, DeForest devised Gateau to Go—individual lidded containers holding layers of his amazing cakes, mousse fillings, icing and more—to sate cravings and solve the cake-crush conundrum. Available in seven flavors (red velvet, strawberry Bavarian, white chocolate-strawberry, peanut butter-chocolate, wedding cake, carrot cake and chocolate mousse) and perfect for sharing, you’ll find them at Martin Wine Cellar (p. 30), and soon at

Caption

local coffee shops. —LG

(LEFT) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (CENTER) ©BLAKE’S ON POYDRAS; (BOTTOM) ©DOUG BRANTLEY

WHERE NOW New

the guide Dining October

Po’ Boy Wonders

Kicked Up a Notch

Not in town during the Oak Street Po’ Boy Festival (p. 17)? Not to worry. You can still get a taste of blue-ribbon winners at Red Fish Grill (p. 25), which has taken home top honors six times over the past 11 years. Shrimp lovers will fall for 2010’s grilled shrimp po’ boy with blackened avocado relish and smoked onion mayo and last year’s shrimp-and-pimento cheese panini, while surf-and-turf fans will want to bite into 2015’s hot sausage-and-crispy catfish entry. All three are great and make seasonal star turns on the menu, but you’ll always find the barbecue oysters with blue cheese dressing version (shown), which was crowned “Best Seafood Po’ Boy” in 2010, 2014 and 2016.

Some things do get better with age. Take NOLA (p. 25), the second of celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse’s four restaurants in the city, which turns 25 this month. In celebration, it recently received a full overhaul, from the massive downstairs bar and to the small plates-focused menu. Stop in for a taste of the next quarter century.

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector.

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 CAFÉ ADELAIDE Louisiana. Chef Meg Bickford

helms the kitchen at this bistro spinoff of Commander’s Palace in the Loews Hotel. Bickford serves up playful takes on modern Creole cuisine.

Try the oyster and pork belly po’ boy. B (daily), L (MF), D (M-Su). www.cafeadelaide.com. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Biderman’s

award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Hand-ground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; house-made mayo and pickles; freshbaked buns. Add a side of hand-cut, twice-cooked fries...and dig in. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylob-

ster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot is counted among celebrated local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-ofthe-norm antipasta (octopus carpaccio, roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 GRILL ROOM Contemporary. The Mobile four-star

fine dining room at the Windsor Court Hotel is a favorite of both locals and visitors. Refined yet relaxed, the Grill Room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and

(LEFT) ©RED FISH GRILL; (RIGHT) ©NOLA

Central Business/ Warehouse District

DINING

local ingredients. Excellent wine program. $$$ B, L, D (daily); brunch (Su). www.windsorcourthotel.com.

300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6 HERBSAINT French. James Beard Award-winning

chef Donald Link’s entrées range from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com.

701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 MANNING’S Southern. The fun, casual menu at

former New Orleans Saints quarterback Archie Manning’s sports-themed restaurant puts fresh

spins on tailgating classics. Chicken wings with a trio of sauces, alligator sausage dogs, crab sliders—one of everything, please. $$ L, D (daily). www.harrahsneworleans.com. 519 Fulton St., 504.593.8118. Map 3, D6 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4

MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 NEW ORLEANS SOCIAL HOUSE Contemporary.

Noshing on sharable small plates—lobster tacos, bison sliders, salmon tartines—while sipping craft cocktails and wine, is the idea here. Live music nightly. $$ D (nightly). www.noshneworleans.com.

752 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.1103. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap, live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT AUGUST French. In New Orleans,

chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a vision. The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s award-winning Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. $$ D (nightly). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and lamb pot pie. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue

and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L, D (W-Su). www.centralcitybbq.com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 21

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................20

Central City..................................................................................................21 French Quarter........................................................................................22 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 26 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................26 Mid-City..........................................................................................................26 Uptown..........................................................................................................26 Other Locations......................................................................................27

Enjoy an afternoon drink in our courtyard.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

MAÎS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the Gulf shrimp and country ham with butterbeans and sweet potatoes. $$$ D (W-Su); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola. com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Live Jazz • Real Food • Serious Beer 527 Decatur St. • 504.522.0571 www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com

Live Jazz Nightly (no cover)

DINING

over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Neal Swindler serves up modern Creole cuisine (Caribbean fish with smoked black bean sauce), along with Old World classics. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks,

Locally Inspired, Nationally Recognized Palace Cafe

and delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

Bourbon House

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

Tableau

www.FrenchQuarter-Dining.com

504.274.1958

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue rib eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. Save room for the killer coconut cake. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 FAUBOURG BISTRO Eclectic. Tucked into the 700

Club bar, Faubourg rocks a menu of hearty pub fare: wedge salads; wings topped with peanut sauce, bacon and jelly; red beans-and-rice burgers; mac-and-cheese skillets. Open until 2 am; delivery until midnight. $ L, D (daily). www.faubourgbistro. com. 700 Burgundy St., 504.439.5842. Map 3, G3 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Owners Gary Wollerman and

chef Tenney Flynn have taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet, Fats Domino’s autographed piano top and Madonna’s G-string. Live music four nights a week. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

DINING

the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro. com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro is a perennial hot spot. The menu is filled with Emeril creations such as Louisiana crab cakes with Creole tartar sauce and pork cheek boudin balls with tomato-bacon jam. $$ L (Th-M), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com.

309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed (Limoges china, purse stools), while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www. revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south

of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B, L, D (daily). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-

you-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes (edamame, fish roe, etc.). $ L, D (daily) www.eatpokeloa.com. 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and hot mustard, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L, D (W-Su). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/

bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 MARIZA Italian. Chef/owner Ian Schnoebelen’s

cozy-chic Italian-inspired space in the trendy Rice Mill Lofts. Try the goat-ricotta bruschetta, yellowfin tuna carpaccio or black linguini with shrimp and crab. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.marizaneworleans.com.

2900 Chartres St., 504.598.5700. Map 1, E3 26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); brunch (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran

restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

(Toups South, Emeril’s Delmonico) is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

Uptown APOLLINE Louisiana. In this renovated shotgun

house, contemporary twists on French/Creole cuisine make diners feel right at home. Char-broiled oysters with bacon marmalade, cold-smoked pork chops, seared scallops with maque choux and pork plank; at brunch try the confit duck with potato hash, duck cracklin and Hollandaise. $$$ Brunch, D (Tu-Su). www.apollinerestaurant.com. 4729 Magazine St., 504.894.8881. Map 1, D4 AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great off-the-

beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathaniel Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’ boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L,

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

DINING

D (Tu-Sa). www.boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 BRIGTSEN’S Creole. A protegé of Paul Prudhom-

me, chef Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.brigtsens.com. 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3 COWBELL American. Chef Brack May’s happy din-

ing space turns out fresh, simple fare that makes dining decisions tough. Hand-ground burgers with cool toppings, fresh-cut fries shrouded in cheese and organic beef chili and grilled Gulf fish tacos— yum. $$ L, D (M-Sa); Sa brunch. www.cowbell-nola. com. 8801 Oak St., 504.298.8689. Map 1, C3 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays

homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine.

Think oyster toast, alligator chorizo-stuffed squash blossoms and gumbo with crab fat rice. Killer cocktail program. $$ D (M-Sa); brunch (F-M). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. What once was a

where you are. ®

(and where you’re going.)

corner grocery has been exquisitely transformed into an intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.lapetitegrocery.com.

4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE American. A New Orleans

landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food.

Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

Step-by-step directions from where you are to where you want to go. wheretraveler.com Now on your iPhone.

Israel at this modern Mediterranean eatery from chef Alon Shaya of restaurant Domenica fame.

Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant. com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4

Other Locations THE APPETITE REPAIR SHOP Eclectic. From this

hard-to-find Algiers hole in the wall, chef Pete Vazquez serves up delicious—and deliciously healthy—prepared foods to go. Grab some chicken curry, chickpea salad and a few veggie samosas, then picnic along the nearby levee. $ D (Th-Su). 400 Vallette St., 504.602.9990. Map 3, H8 DONG PHUONG Vietnamese. The menu at this

The new travel website from Where Magazine

>

“Little Vietnam” restaurant is crammed with pho, noodle dishes and a variety of rice plates. But it’s the adjacent bakery that draws foodies from far and wide for what the New York Times has called the most authentic banh mi bread in the U.S. $ Open 9 am-4 pm (W-M). 14207 Chef Menteur Hwy., 504.254.0214. Map 1, G1

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

Shopping

New Kids on the Block

Occult Accouterments

Not too long ago Where Magazine was the sole business on Wilkinson Street, a block-long row adjacent to Jackson Square. But in recent months a trio of stylish shops has opened along the once sleepy stretch on the ground floor of The Wilkinson (519 Wilkinson St.), a new luxury apartment complex, with more soon to follow. Foodies will find cool cooking accessories at NOLA Boards (p. 33, shown). At Hundred Acre (Suite 101, 504.301.2821) the well-curated stock runs the gamut from New Orleans-themed collectibles and fun gift items to jewelry and home accents. Footwear fan? Step into Charleston Shoe Company (Suite 102, 855.996.7463 x.332).

Need a new cauldron? What about a wand?

Some vampire wine or a blood-red energy drink in a transfusion-style bag? Head to Hex: Old World Witchery (p. 30, shown), Boutique du Vampyre (p. 30) and Bottom of the Cup (p. 30), where you’ll find all sorts of potions and notions, along with psychic readings.

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, along with a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings.

Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s

fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www. billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

JADE AUSTIN Designed for the Southern

woman, this breezy boutique specializes in linen and cotton clothing by such makers as FLAX, Match Point and Mosaic.

Select bamboo items are also featured. www.jadeaustinllc.com. 3652 Magazine St., 504.702.8515. Map 1, D4

wheretraveler.com

DIRTY COAST Just when you thought

New Orleans couldn’t possibly fit another Tshirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. www.dirtycoast. com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 FLEURTY GIRL Lauren Haydel has become a

mini mogul, thanks largely to her popular line of women’s T-shirts, which debuted in 2009. Today her designs celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.269.4005. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4

KIT AND ACEThis lululemon offshoot is known for

its line of “technical cashmere” clothing. Geared to both sexes, the chic shop’s luxe street wear is both versatile and machine-washable. www.kitandace. com. 3913 Magazine St., 844.548.6223. Map 1, D4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4

HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY features an altar on which visitors can leave notes to deceased loved ones; they are later burned in their honor.

28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

(LRFT) ©NOLA BOARDS; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

TUXEDOS TO GEAUXWhy rent a tux when you can

own one? This formal wear shop dresses men to the nines—complete with shirt, tie and cummerbund—for under $200. www.tuxedostogeaux.com.

3400 16th St., Metairie, 504.455.5393. Map 1, C2 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4 WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European women’s wear,

from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by such leading designers as Piazza Sempione and Stella McCartney. www.weinsteinsinc.com. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4

Gifts & Collectibles BOTTOM OF THE CUP In addition to psychic read-

ings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories. Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. www.bottomofthecup.com. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4 BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRESearching for a set of

custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. www.feelthebite.com. 709 St. Ann St, 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4 BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers hand-crafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits AUNT SALLY’S PRALINE SHOP Chances are you’ll

catch the sweet scent of Aunt Sally’s clear down the block. Created from Louisiana cane sugar and pecans, pralines are made fresh daily in the store’s kitchen. The shelves are also stocked with Crescent City souvenir items. www.auntsallys.com. 810 Decatur St., 504.524.3373. Map 3, H5 KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.809.1026. Map 1, D4 LAURA’S CANDIES Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 MARTIN WINE CELLAR Wine Spectator has recog-

nized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4; 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504.896.7300. Map 1, C2 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4

3536 TOULOUSE ST NOLATILYADIE.COM 504.281.4928

SHOPPING

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www. louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 28

Clothing........................................................................................................ 28 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 30 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 30 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 31 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 31 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 32 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 33 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 34 Shoes............................................................................................................... 34 Special Services...................................................................................... 34 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.WINE. Map 3, F4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2

Hats & Accessories FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222 Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accesw w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

THE GUIDE

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc sories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6

FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

AVERY FINE PERFUMERY This artisanal fragrance

”smell gallery” is one of only 18 in the world and the Italian-based InterTrade Europe group’s sole stand-alone, stateside location. Hard-to-find niche brands such as Blood Concept and Boadicea are featured. www.averyfineperfumeries.com. 527 St. Joseph St., 504.522.7102. Map 3, B6 FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

623 royAL street

French quArter

new orLeAns

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7; 140 Carondelet St. Map 3, D3 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4

32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of Where® in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

SHOPPING

COUTELIER Form and function combine at this

Riverbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Cookbooks and other kitchen accessories are also offered. www.nolaknifeworks.com. 8239 Oak St., 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3

A

324 Chartres St.

HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

ShoeBeDoUSA.com 504-523-7463 10:30am-6pm 7 days a week

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com.

519 Wilkinson St., 504.516.2601. Map 3, G4; 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 SPRUCE Does your space need a spruce up? Start

by stopping in at this eco-conscious interiors studio. Funky fabrics, one-of-a-kind wallpaper and design consultation services are offered. www.sprucenola.com. 2043 Magazine St., 504.265.0946. Map 1, D4

C

books, toys, gifts & apparel

B

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4

nola kids

St. a r tre s 333 Ch 6.134 0 5 0 4.56 aily Open d

www.facebook.com/nolakids

FOR INFANTS, TODDLERS AND CHILDREN

FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop.

As its name suggests, fleurs de lis are prominent. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 C

KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-

nered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4

B A

MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4;

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THE GUIDE

SHOPPING

Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5

Malls/Major Retailers

A

B

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within walking distance of the CBD and French Quarter. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

Shoes GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

Papier Plume

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4

842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.

SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services ELECTRIC LADYLAND Looking for a lasting

souvenir? This popular tattoo parlor draws locals, tourists, and visiting celebrities with its awardwinning artists and large selection of designs.

Custom creations and body piercing are also offered, along with laser removal services. www. electricladylandtatoo.com. 610 Frenchmen St., 504.947.8286. Map 3, J5

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PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

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THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques

Street Scenes

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New Orleans morphs into a sprawling contemporary art showcase Oct. 7 during the citywide Art for Arts’ Sake celebration, with galleries, museums and retailers along Royal, Julia and Magazine streets extending hours from 6 to 9 pm, popping a few corks and inviting collectors to check out what’s new on the walls. Must-visits include Royal Street’s Antieau Gallery (p. 35, shown) and Gallery 2 (p. 36), Arthur Roger Gallery (p. 35) and Jonathan Ferrara Gallery (p. 35) on Julia and Terrance Osborne Gallery (p. 40) and Sarah Ashley Longshore Studio (p. 40) on Magazine. For additional information on participating venues, visit artsdistrictneworleans.com and magazinestreet.com.

In the early 2000s the late great Louisiana artist George Rodrigue joined forces with renowned Santa Fe silversmith Douglas Magnus on a Blue Dog jewelry line. The handcrafted works of wearable art (sterling rings, bracelets, pins, etc.) have now been reissued. You’ll find the full limited-edition collection at Rodrigue Studio (p. 40).

Central Business/ Warehouse District ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com. 440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6

(LEFT) ©ANTIEAU GALLERY; (RIGHT) ©RODRIGUE STUDIO

CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to

the cutting-edge creations on its walls.

Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured. www. martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5

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OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ pre-

eminent exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www. stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leon-

ard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery.com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4

ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4

BLUE DOG ARTIST George Rodrigue was commissioned to paint presidents Ronald Reagan, George H.W. Bush and Bill Clinton, as well as five Louisiana governors. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 35

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 35

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 35 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................40 Collectives.....................................................................................................40 Other Locations.......................................................................................40

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

THE GUIDE

porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JACK GALLERY Rediscover the golden age of

advertising with recreated vintage posters by Cappiello, Steinlen, Toulouse-Lautrec and others. The works of Tom Everhart (the only artist authorized to use “Peanuts” characters in his designs), and creations by Rolling Stones guitarist Ron Wood are also featured. www.jackgallery.com. 813 Royal St., 504.588.1777. Map 3, H4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals

in international oil paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5

Special Guest Artist

BIG CHIEF DEMOND MELANCON OF THE YOUNG SEMINOLE HUNTERS Traditional wearable components and contemporary beadwork will be showcased at Gallery Two October 26 - December 7, 2017 Opening Reception: Thursday, October 26, 6 - 9 pm

LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in objects

for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

831 ROYAL STREET FRENCH QUARTER NEW ORLEANS, LA 504.513.8312

GALLERYTWONOLA.COM

THE GUIDE

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. Originals, giclées and prints are offered, along with live-painting event services. www.artgallerynola.com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for history and Hollywood

buffs, this hip shop is filled with signed collectibles, vintage jewelry and retro bar ware. Marilyn Monroe glamour pics, first-edition novels and assorted music memorabilia are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec.

Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 FRENCHY GALLERY Art of the moment takes on

new meaning in the hands of Randy Leo Frechette, who captures moments on canvas as they unfold.

From music fests to sporting events to Carnival parades, you’ll find the real-time artist fast at work among the crowds. www.frenchylive.com. 8319 Oak St., 504.861.7595. Map 1, C3 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE STUDIOStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. www.galleryosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530.

Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works (oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks) by dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. 2028 Magazine St., 504.523.7945. Map 1, D4

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey, Harry Shearer and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net. 3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 5 PRESS GALLERY Part of the New Orleans Center

for Creative Arts, this airy space spotlights works by professional artists with strong ties to the nationally acclaimed high school, from notable alumni (such as Brandon Odums) to visiting artistsin-residence. www.5pressgallery.com. 5 Press St., 504.249.5624. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKETThis after-dark art mart

takes place in a converted auto body shop (aka the Art Garage). From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps to folk art and photography, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares, Th-Sa, 8 pm-1 am. www.frenchmenartmarket.com. 2231 St. Claude Ave., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5 ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8

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THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Ready for Their Close-up

Mint Conditioned

The Crescent City rolls out the red carpet for the 28th annual New Orleans Film Festival Oct. 11-19. Headquartered at the Ace Hotel, the Oscar-qualifying competition draws thousands of moviegoers and hundreds of filmmakers with director panels, roundtable discussions and more than 200 feature-length and short-film screenings. The Louisiana-shot “Mudbound” (shown), directed by Dee Rees (“Pariah,” “Bessie”) and adapted from Hillary Jordan’s award-winning novel, serves as 2017’s centerpiece selection and reflects the most diverse lineup in fest history, with 53 percent of this year’s films directed by women and 45 percent by people of color. For details, visit neworleansfilmfestival.org.

Be a part music history at the Old U.S. Mint (p. 44), where Deacon John & the Ivories (shown) play Oct. 6, followed by Walter “Wolfman” Washington Oct. 27, as part of the monthly Friends of the Cabildo concert series (friendsofthecabildo.org).

Performances are archived for the Louisiana State Museum’s music collection.

Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6

(LEFT) ©NEW ORLEANS FILM FESTIVAL; (RIGHT) ©CYRIL VETTER

AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to

insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4 AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals,

the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open Tu-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su,

10 am-5 pm. www.auduboninstitute. org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4

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CHAMPIONS SQUAREThis open-air

venue, adjacent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts 45,000 sq. ft. and stateof-the-art technology. The space plays host to free fan fests during New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year. www.champions-square.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2 CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush

canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market.

Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org.

French Market Pl., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleans-themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games and live entertainment. www.harrahsneworleans. com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose

statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5

MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open

VITASCOPE HALL, the world’s first permanent for-profit movie theater, opened at 623 Canal Street in 1896; the site is now home to a souvenir/liquor store. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 41

THE GUIDE

M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI,. www. stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 THE THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-of-

the-art movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining. www.thetheatres.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane

Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to 3 hours; rates vary. www. celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SIGHTSEEING This double-decker bus tour

allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. Buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. www.confederacyofcruisers.com.

634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280.

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart

Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$22. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs.

Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.

Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs.

Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Guidelines PIANO LOUNGE • PATIO • RESTAURANT

EAT, DRINK &

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 61-63.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................41

Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................42 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 44 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 46 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 48

Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 pm and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm and 7:30 pm) from

Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

NEW ORLEANS BREWS CRUISE Get a taste of the

local craft-beer scene with a tour of area breweries.

Learn about the brewing process while sampling three to five varieties at each stop. www.neworleansbrewscruise.com. 504.517.4671.

SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under. www. saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

EST. 1933. LOCALLY OWNED WWW.PATOBRIENS.COM

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 43

THE GUIDE

Museums & Exhibits CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Louisi-

ana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $10; $8 seniors/ students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/ seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, I4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo, Map 3, G4)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–Site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase.

Continuing: The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History. 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St., Map 3, G5)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here.

Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St., Map 3, G5)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave., Map 3, I5)–The only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Presbytère (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–Continuing: Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana and Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond. For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $26 adults, $22.50 seniors, $16.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All

44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

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Boundaries”: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM

Explore this misunderstood religion through the museum’s artifacts and exhibits. $7 adults, $5.50 high school students, $3.50 children (free under 5).

Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. www.voodoomuseum. com. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings.

Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm; free. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free).

Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB features rotating and permanent exhibits. Adults, $10.50; students/seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. www. southernfood.org. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3

Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 THE BULLDOG The patio is the way to go at this

British-themed pub, where the fountain is fashioned from dozens of old beer taps. 3236 Magazine St., 504.891.1516. Map 1, D4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only

brewpub. Microbrews, nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-

plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated spot, tucked inside

Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance and access to the eatery’s full menu. www.antoines. com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 OLD POINT BAR Located on Algiers Point (a quick

ferry ride from the French Quarter. Local musicians abound—both on stage and in the audience. Hip 46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

We have DIRECTV NFL Sunday Ticket Riverside Dining SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER Across from Harrah’s Casino next to Hilton Hotel

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THE GUIDE

local crowd; no attitude. www.oldpointbar.com.

545 Patterson Dr., 504.364.0950. Map 3, G8 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 RICK’S SPORTING SALOON The traditional sports

bar gets kicked up several notches at this Bourbon Street hot spot, which scores extra points with its handsome decor and gorgeous entertainers. The club features 10 high-definition TVs, along with 10 beers on draft. iknowrick.com. 522 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans. www.therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 WALKON’S This popular game-day gathering

ground near the Superdome is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. Looking for a rowdy atmosphere with self-serve taps in which to watch the game? You’ve found it. www.walk-ons.com.

1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3

Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 am - 4 pm by Admission

Live Entertainment BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

features local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio, along with national musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot recre-

ates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday, with performances by a rotating roster of top-tier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. www. sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. www.preservationhall. com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-

back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. www.spottedcatmusicclub.com.

623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable

nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

Unlock History. hgghh.org | 504.274.0746

THE GUIDE

Navigate Give It a Spin

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2018.

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

©ST. TAMMANY PARISH TOURISM COMMISSION

With more than 100 miles of designated paths (including the Lafitte Greenway, which runs from the French Quarter to Mid-City), New Orleans ranks among the top cities in the U.S. for urban biking. More a nature lover than city cyclist? Grab a twowheel rental and explore the Tammany Trace just across Lake Pontchartrain, which spans 31 miles through five Northshore (p.

51) communities, connecting Covington, Abita Springs, Mandeville, Lacombe and Slidell. Recently inducted into the national Rail-Trail Hall of Fame, the paved hike and bike path follows the now-defunct Illinois Central Railroad corridor, winding through piney woods and marshy bayous. The Trace offers plenty of shade, 31 bridges, covered pavilions, restroom access and close encounters with local wildlife. For maps, suggested stops and bicycle rental info, visit tammanytrace.org.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index General Information........................................................................... 50 Nearby Destinations............................................................................51 Cajun Country...........................................................................................51 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 51 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 51 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................51 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................51 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 51 Transportation ....................................................................................... 50

CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the SOuthern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residental shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map

by Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include actor Brad Pitt’s Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts.

Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of

the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. www.houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

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3

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3 2 1

THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Rethinking River Road In 1971 the newly formed River Road Historical Society set out to restore longneglected Destrehan Plantation, turning a crumbling eyesore into a shining example of civic pride, and jumpstarting a new era of reconstruction along the historic highway. Nearly a half century later, Destrehan is once again part of a River Road revival, joining other area plantations, such as Laura and Whitney, in embracing the once-unspoken subject of slavery. At one time counting more than 200 enslaved workers, Destrehan was the site of an 1811 tribunal to determine punishment in the largest slave revolt in American history. But it also served as a home colony for the Freeman’s Bureau, housing more than 700 newly freed slaves by 1866. Think there’s nothing new to learn in old plantation country? Think again.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

©DESTREHAN PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 58 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 58 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 59 Dining........................................................................................................... 60

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 60 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I S E P T E M B E R 2017

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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THE GUIDE

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62 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

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Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 5 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 t S Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 in e OV a v RH Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 Sp hA AveOmni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 OC c n i l o kOO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 n R a Fr St PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 6 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 7 Street Direction SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 French Quarter SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 Jazzy Passes WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 1 day - $3 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Haunt Hunter

Music Lover

History Buff

In New Orleans, ghost and cemetery tours aren’t offered just during October but year-round. There are dozens of “cities of the dead” to explore; if you can visit only one, make it St. Louis No. 1 and make it with the nonprofit group (1) Save Our Cemeteries, which helps fund tomb restoration and preservation. Voodoo has had a hold on the Crescent City since the early 1700s and continues to today. Brush up on vodun’s backstory at the (2) New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum. “America’s most haunted city” is home to numerous ghost excursions, with (3) Haunted History Tours among the most popular. Daytime outings are offered but after-dark walks on the city’s supernatural side are all the eerier.

Home to the popular Jazz in the Park concert series, (1) Armstrong Park is also home to Congo Square, where jazz is said to have first germinated—hence the statues of Louis Armstrong, Buddy Bolden, Sidney Bechet and other musical greats. The jazz brunch may have started at Commander’s Palace, but the (2) Court of Two Sisters is famed for keeping it going all week long. Grab an outdoor table then work your way along the bountiful buffet, while live jazz wafts through the courtyard.

Quiet during the day, Frenchmen Street makes big noise after sunset with a number of mustvisit music clubs. (3) The Spotted Cat gets in the groove early with bands taking the stage at 3 pm on weekends (4 pm weekdays). Up to three acts perform nightly.

With its numerous properties, hundreds of rare holdings and free exhibits, the (1) Historic New Orleans Collection is the perfect place for a Crescent City primer. Its gift shop offers a wealth of history books and collectibles you won't find elsewhere. The Sazerac cocktail was first poured in the French Quarter in 1838, and later become synonymous with the Roosevelt Hotel, home to the (2) Sazerac Bar since the 1930s. Raise a toast to the WPA-era murals that adorn the walls. (3) Antoine’s has been the standard bearer of local culinary traditions for 175 years. The nation’s longest-operating, family-run restaurant has fed everyone from Calvin Coolidge to Whoopi Goldberg with such signature dishes as oysters Rockefeller, which originated here.

64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2017

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ALL IMAGES ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©COURT OF TWO SISTERS; ©CHRIS GRANGER/NOCVB; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©HNOC; ©ROOSEVELT HOTEL; ©GOURMET REISE/NOCVB

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS

Double Plantation Tour OAK ALLEY

LAURA

Three Unique Stories of Plantation Life Choose a TWO plantation combination Whitney & Laura | Laura & Oak Alley | Whitney & Oak Alley

ENJOY OUR OTHER TOURS: SUPER CITY • SWAMP • KATRINA • KATRINA/CITY AIRBOAT • COCKTAIL • GARDEN DISTRICT • FRENCH QUARTER CEMETERY & VOODOO • GHOSTS & SPIRITS • GROUPS

Locally owned & touring New Orleans since 1924!

504-569-1401 | 800-233-2628 | GrayLineNewOrleans.com

steamboat

Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com