Where Magazine New Orleans Oct 2018

GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS

EAT

DINING ON THE DARK SIDE

PLAY

FALL FESTIVALS

EXPLORE

EERIE ART

FRIGHTFUL FUN

Ghost Tours, Halloween Haunts and Voodoo To-Dos PROMOTION

Scout Island Scream Park, a Halloween fest filled with chills and thrills for the entire family, at City Park.

OCTOBER 2018

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New Orleans CONTENTS

10.18

SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

the plan

the guide 20

9 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Ebony Evans Concierge at Harrah’s Hotel.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood.

Plus spirited dinners and a museum-quality fete.

10 Editor’s Note

Revisiting 50 years of Where New Orleans.

12 Hot Dates

14

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus chapeaux shops and a little kitchen magic.

GALLERIES +

35 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl.

Plus eerie, edgy art.

40

ENTERTAINMENT

XX

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus the New Orleans Film Festival and 100 years of photography.

52 XX

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus St. Louis Cathedral.

64 New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for first-time visitors, romance lovers and sports fans.

ON THE COVER

GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS

Fear and fun EAT

combine in City

DINING ON THE DARK SIDE

PLAY

FALL FESTIVALS

EXPLORE

Park’s new Scout

EERIE ART

Island Scream Park. ©SCOUT ISLAND SCREAM PARK

OCTOBER 2018

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17

where now

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N O L A

9/4/18 11:57 AM

Paper Monuments and fun fall festivals.

17 Local Flavor

25 things we love about New Orleans.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus a colorful history.

Ghosts and vampires and voodoo—oh my! A guide to Halloween haunts and happenings.

16 Out + About CONNECT WITH US

58 XX

14 On the Go

FRIGHTFUL FUN

Ghost Tours, Halloween Haunts and Voodoo To-Dos PROMOTION

Scout Island Scream Park, a Halloween fest filled with chills and thrills for the entire family, at City Park.

NAVIGATE

Black is beautiful...and delicious, hot restaurant dish and coal-roasted sweet potatoes.

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z pages 61-63

(LEFT) ©525 WORLDWIDE; (CENTER, TOP) ©JEFF STROUT/AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY/DICKIE BRENNAN'S STEAKHOUSE

XX 30 SHOPPING

Voodoo Fest Twenty years of worshipping the music, Ed Sheeran, Dance Theater of Harlem, Trombone Shorty’s Hometown Threauxdown and 29 other entertainment ideas to add to your list.

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Ebony Evans Concierge at Harrah’s Hotel Q: The Fillmore at Harrah’s is slated to open early next year. Name a few other music venues visitors should seek out.

A: I usually send people to Vaso on Frenchmen Street, Masquerade in Harrah’s Casino (p. 42) for dancing and partying on the weekend and the Dragon’s Den on Esplanade Avenue on Friday nights when DJ RQ Away is there.

Q: Suggest a couple of restaurants for alfresco dining.

A: The Court of Two Sisters (p. 24), of course, and the balcony at Tableau (p. 26), which overlooks Jackson Square.

Q: Where would you guide guests in search of the spooky side of the city?

A: French Quarter Phantoms’ (p. 44) paranormal tour of St. Vincent’s Infant Asylum, although I’m too scared to go on it myself.

Someone I used to worked with worked there a while back, and he was always talking about how he really would hear things.

Q: What locally made item would you like to find in your trick-or-treat bag?

A: A voodoo doll, though I'd never use one.

Q: Voodoo Fest or Beignet Fest, where are we likely to find you this month?

A: Voodoo Fest should be really good this year. There are two people performing who I would love to see, Janelle Monáe and Ty Dolla $ign.

(ALL IMAGES) ©SHAWN FINK

Q: What do you love most about New Orleans?

A: The culture and our unique style of rhythm and dancing.

9

EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY

A LOOK BACK

Where We Were This year marks Where New Orleans’ 50th anniversary. To commemorate the midcentury milestone, we opened our archives, dusted off back issues and throughout 2018 will be revisiting years past. This month we set the wayback machine to 2001.

That October Where interviewed “Interview With the Vampire” author Anne Rice in her then Garden District home, where faithful followers gathered at the front gate to pay respects to the city’s mistress of the macabre, who once arrived at a book-signing in a horse-drawn casket.

Earlier that year we also chatted with chef Paul Prudhomme, who shared his secrets for making roux; talk-show host Larry King, who ruled over the Bacchus parade; and local artist James Michalopoulos, who was fast gaining international recognition.

We took visitors behind the scenes at the Superdome, on an Uptown architectural outing, back in time through plantation country and for a ride at the Angola Prison Rodeo.

Ernie K-Doe was still funkin’ things up at his Mother-in-Law Lounge, Elton John and Billy Joel rocked the Arena and Celia Cruz poured on the salsa at Jazzfest.

Hospitality Rangers roamed the French Quarter, retro burlesque raged at the Shim Sham Club, and it was a very good year on the foodie front, with GW Fins, Lilette, Muriel’s and Restaurant August all making debuts and lasting impressions.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

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Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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HOT

TOP STOPS 27 additional ideas worth entertaining.

CIVIC THEATRE Oct. 5: Eric Johnson; Oct. 6: Father John Misty; Oct. 9: Public Image LTD; Oct. 15: The Breeders. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865

DATES

HOUSE OF BLUES Oct. 4: Hobo Johnson & the Lovemakers; Oct. 20: John Hiatt. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583 JOY THEATER Oct. 5: Anderson East; Oct. 6: Dirty Heads; Oct. 11: Chvrches; Oct. 12: RuPaul’s Drag Race; Oct. 19: Iliza Shlesinger. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569

Voodoo Music + Arts Experience

“You can never be certain of anything,” Voodoo Music + Arts Experience founder Stephen Rehage told Where on the eve of the fest’s 10th anniversary. “But I had hopes and always envisioned this as becoming something very big.” And indeed it has. Now in its 20th year, the three-day showcase of national musicians and local culture draws thousands of fans from around the globe with more than 60 top-tier acts on multiple stages in City Park. This year’s top picks include Mumford & Sons, Arctic Monkeys, Childish Gambino (aka Donald Glover), Marilyn Manson, Modest Mouse, Janelle Monáe, Odesza and Elle King, among numerous others. voodoofestival.com

5 caption here Trombone Shorty

Ed Sheeran

Great Things Not to Be Missed

1 SATCHMO AT THE WALDORF > OCT. 5-21 Set in the dressing room of the Waldorf Astoria’s Empire Room, where Louis Armstrong last performed prior to his death in 1971, this one-man, three-character show looks back on the highs and lows of the jazz legend’s life and illustrious career. Le Petit Theatre, 616 St. Peter St., 504.522.2081

2 NEW ORLEANS SAINTS > OCT. 8 The Black and Gold take on the Washington Redskins at 7:15 pm at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome in this month’s sole home game.

The fan action gets started three hours earlier with live music in adjacent Champions Square.

1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

3 TROMBONE SHORTY > OCT. 20 New Orleans’ unofficial cultural ambassador has been touring nationwide in celebration of the city’s tricentennial and 300-year musical heritage. Missed him on the road? Catch his Hometown Threauxdown at Champions Square. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

4 DANCE THEATRE OF HARLEM > OCT. 20 The award-winning contemporary dance troupe takes the Mahalia Jackson Theater stage. 801 N. Rampart St., 800.745.3000

5 ED SHEERAN > OCT. 31 No trick, all treat. The frightfully talented English singer/songwriter pulls into the Mercedes-Benz Superdome for his first Crescent City appearance. 1500 Poydras St.; 800.745.3000

For a full calendar of events, go to wheretraveler.com/new-orleans/local-events 12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER Oct. 9-14: Africa Umoja.

801 N. Rampart St. , 800.745.3000 SAENGER THEATRE Through Oct. 7: “Aladdin”; Oct. 12: Ron White; Oct. 20: Hannibal Buress; Oct. 23: Alice in Chains; Oct. 24: Maxwell; Oct. 26: Lauren Daigle. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Oct. 10: Fall Out Boy; Oct. 12: Mercy Me; Oct. 18: Kevin Hart. New Orleans Pelicans Home Games—Oct. 19: vs.

Sacramento Kings; Oct. 23: vs. Los Angeles Clippers; Oct. 26: vs.

Brooklyn Nets; Oct. 27: vs. Utah Jazz. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 LAKEFRONT ARENA Oct. 3: Lauryn Hill. 6801 Franklin Ave., 504.280.7222

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ON THE GO

VOODOO EXPERIENCES

Get Your Boo On

Where to bone up on that hoodoo we do so well.

(TOP) ©JEFF STROUT/AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; (BOTTOM) ©KONOPLYTSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (OPENING PAGE) ©SHAWN FINK

Halloween happenings in “America’s most haunted city” “New Orleans can be very, very gloomy,” said vampire novelist Anne Rice when Where interviewed her in 2001. “The twilight can be oppressive and frightening, but it’s also very beautiful: The sky really does turn violet, the sunsets really can be blood red and the cicadas really do sing in the trees. I’ve described it many times in my books.”

With its gas-lit streets, crumbling cemeteries and three centuries of vampire, voodoo and ghost lore, New Orleans can indeed seem creepy. It’s easy to understand why the city consistently ranks as one of the nation’s top Halloween destinations.

A TOUR OF TOURS When former photographer Sidney Smith decided to focus on tours in 1994, there were only two ghost excursions in town. Today there are nearly two dozen, with Smith’s Haunted History Tours (p. 45) among the most popular, offering a variety of expeditions, from ghost and vampire to voodoo and occult outings. French Quarter Phantoms (p. 44) likewise counts a wide range of tours, from its twice-nightly Ghost & Vampire romps to guided paranormal explorations. The New Orleans Spirits and Spells Tour (p. 45) departs nightly from Hex: Old World Witchery and includes a real-deal ritual, while the American Horror Story Unauthorized Tour (thatothertour.com) revisits legends and locales featured in the series’ “Coven” season.

OH, THE HORROR! Love having the wits scared out of you? There’s no better place than the Mortuary Haunted House (p. 42). Locat-

NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM Dusty and musty, this cluttered collection of relics, altars and oddities offers an overview of voodoo’s origins and its continued practice in the Crescent City. The museum also provides guided tours of Congo Square and St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, home to legendary local voodoo priestess Marie Laveau. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128

Boo at the Zoo

ed in a former funeral home, the acclaimed attraction draws hardcore horror fans with state-of-the-art antimatronics and special effects. This year the Mortuary partners with City Park (p. 40) for the new Scout Island Scream Park. The sprawling fright fest caters to kids early in the evening with a “scare-free zone,” but once the sun sets the fear factor ramps way, way up. Both venues are open Oct. 5-Nov. 3.

SMALL-FRY FUN Trick-or-treating starts early with Ghosts in the Oaks in City Park Oct. 19-21. The annual event draws little goblins with rides, face-painting and a pumpkin patch, as does the Audubon Nature Institute’s Boo at the Zoo (p. 40) Oct. 2628. The Audubon Insectarium (p. 40) gets into the spooky spirit Oct. 27-28 with Crawloween, where kids can gross out over spiders, scorpions and other critters, while vying to see who can “Guess How Many Maggots Are in the Jar.” The daylong Oct. 20 Boo Carré Halloween Haunt in the French Market (p. 42) paves the way for the Krewe of Boo

Parade, which rolls at 6:30 pm.

Revelers line Decatur Street to catch Halloween-themed floats and treats/trinkets thrown by costumed riders.

BIG-KID HAUNTS At 9 am on the morning of the Krewe of Boo parade, the undead rise up for the New Orleans Zombie Run (neworleanszombierun.com) through the Warehouse District. Voodoo priestess Marie Laveau, pirate Jean Lafitte, nortorious Madame LaLaurie and the city’s fabeled Axeman serial killer are brought back to life during the Friends of the Cabildo’s (p. 44) Ghostly Galavant tour Oct. 20-21. The dead (hopefully) stay that way during Save Our Cemeteries’ (p. 45) Tombs by Twilight Oct. 27 after-hours exploration of St. Louis Cemetery No. 1; later that evening natty nosferatu descend on the House of Blues (p. 50) for the Endless Night: New Orleans Vampire Ball.

The adult-oriented and frightfully fun Jim Monaghan’s Halloween Parade rounds things out on All Hallows’ Eve, kicking off at 6 pm from Molly’s at the Market (p. 50).

MARIE LAVEAU’S TOMB Etched with XXXs (allegedly for wish fullfillment) and surrounded by offerings, this ranks as the second-most visited gravesite in the nation…after Elvis’. Due to vandalism, public visitation is limited to tour groups only. 425 Basin St. ISLAND OF SALVATION BOTANICA Modern-day practioneer Sallie Ann Glassman (who helped comedian Joan Rivers purge her home of poltergists) regularly conducts rituals around the city. Stop by her botanica, where she offers crystal ball readings and a wide selection of potions and notions. 2372 St. Claude Ave., 504.948.9961 VOODOO BONE LADY In addtion to private readings, this company provides tours of the city’s supernatural side, including of St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, where a blessing is performed at Laveau’s tomb. 701 Royal St., 504.267.2040 VOODOO AUTHENTICA Specializing in authentic, locally made voodoo dolls, gris-gris bags and potions, this magical shop also mounts a free Voodoofest each Oct. 31, which concludes with an ancestral healing ritual. 612 Dumaine St., 504.522.2111

Voodoo Museum

15

WHERE NOW New

Orleans The Rest of the Fests The Voodoo Music + Arts Experience may be the biggest, but isn’t the only festival around town this month. Check out:

Paper Monuments’ website features a map of related points of interest for further exploration.

OUT+ABOUT

Monumental Issue Over the past year New Orleans, like the rest of the nation, has wrestled with the contentious issue of Confederate monuments, their removal from prominent public spaces and what—if anything—should go in their place. Enter Colloqate Design, a local nonprofit “dedicated to organizing community around the purpose of place before politics,” which canvassed the public for input. The result is Paper Monuments (papermonuments.org), an evolving series of commissioned artworks designed “to honor the erased histories of the people, places, movements and events that have made up the past 300 years.”

The enlightening posters serve as temporary totems memorializing pivotal points in the city’s evolution: the legend of Bras-Coupé, a runaway slave; the 1892 labor union strike; the 1960 civil rights sit-in at McCrory’s; the 1977 gay rights protest against Anita Bryant.

You’ll spot them pasted up at the corner of Canal Street and Elks Place and elsewhere around the city, and find them up for free grabs at the nearby New Orleans Public Library (219 Loyola Ave.), Crescent City Books (p. 30) and other locations.

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

BEIGNET FEST This family oriented affair, a fundraiser for local autism programs, serves up gourmet takes on the city’s signature pastry. Boudin beignets, crabmeat beignets, pecantruffle beignets—you’ll find them all and then some Oct. 6 at City Park’s Festival Grounds, in addition to the Imagination Movers, the Original Pinettes Brass Band and other local bands performing from 10 am to 6 pm. beignetfest.com

Blues & BBQ

CRESCENT CITY BLUES & BBQ FESTIVAL Southern soul served with a serious side of barbecue. The legendary Jimmie Vaughan headlines this 13th annual event, which offers close to 20 additional acts (Don Bryant, Little Freddie King, Walter “Wolfman” Washington) on two stages Oct. 12-14 in Lafayette Square. Did we mention the killer ’cue? jazzandheritage.org/blues-fest WWII AIR, SEA & LAND FESTIVAL The National WWII Museum brings history to life Oct. 12-14 at the Lakefront Airport with three days of flyovers, demos, performances and interviews with veterans. Be sure to check out the art deco aviation murals inside the terminal. airsealandfest.com

Beignet Fest

TREMÉ FALL FESTIVAL Celebrate the nation’s oldest African-American neighborhood Oct. 6-7 on the grounds of the second-oldest African-American Catholic Church. Along with performances by neighborhood notables, food booths and crafts vendors, the free fest features historical walking tours and a spirited gospel get-down at St. Augustine Church. faubourgtreme.wixsite. com/tremefest

NEW ORLEANS FILM FESTIVAL Counted among the “top 25 coolest film festivals in the world”

by MovieMaker magazine, this Academy-accredited competition rolls out the red carpet for more than 200 feature-length and shortfilm screenings Oct. 17-25. (For more info, see p. 40.) neworleansfilmsociety.org NOLA MAC ’N’ CHEESE FESTIVAL Who will take home this year’s coveted, hand-blown noodle award? Taste for yourself Oct. 20 at Armstrong Park, where area eateries think outside of the Kraft box with kicked-up twists on the all-American classic. nolamacncheesefest.com

(TOP LEFT) ©PAPER MONUMENTS; (TOP RIGHT AND BOTTOM) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM

OKTOBERFEST Follow the oompah music to Deutsches Haus on Bayou St. John Oct. 5-6, 12-13 and 19-20. Along with brats, Bavarian-style pretzels, schnitzel and sauerbraten, the month-long party offers more than 20 types of German beers and schnapps, daily stein-holding contests and, yes, Chicken Dancing.

1700 Moss St.; oktoberfestnola.com

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LOCAL FLAVOR

25 Things We Love About New Orleans In honor of the city’s tricentennial, each month during 2018 we are highlighting a few of our favorite things (25 x 12 = 300).

Have one of your own? Share it with us at wheretraveler.com, and we’ll consider it for the next issue.

1

13

2

14 15

Costumed concertgoers at Voodoo Fest (p. 12).

16 17

Putting on the Ritz at the Davenport Lounge (p. 50).

(TOP) ©KATRINA BARBER/VOODOO MUSIC + ARTS EXPERIENCE; (CENTER, LEFT) ©NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM; (CENTER, RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY

Le Petit Theatre (616 St. Peter St.), the nation’s longest-running community playhouse.

Seeing what’s new on the walls at galleries citywide during the annual Art for Arts’ Sake celebration (Oct. 6).

Beefing up before Saints home games at Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse (p. 24).

3

The statue of city founder Bienville (Decatur and Conti streets), close to where French settlers first cleared ground.

4

Mardi Gras Indian Chief Demond Melancon’s beaded portraits at Gallery 2 (p. 35).

Artist Enrique Alferez’s WPAera sculpture and bas reliefs spread throughout City Park (p. 40)

The Mourning Tour at Hermann-Grima House (p. 46), a dead-on depiction of 19th-century funereal customs.

14

5

The New Orleans-inspired inks (Sazerac, streetcar green, Garden District azalea) at Papier Plume (p. 32).

6 7

18

The Grammy-winning Rebirth Brass Band’s jampacked Tuesday night funk fest at the Maple Leaf (p. 50).

Drinking by candlelight at Laffite’s Blacksmith Shop (p. 50).

19

Massoud Dalali’s hand-tooled leather disguises at the Mask Gallery (p. 32).

8

The Saturday morning Vietnamese farmers market in New Orleans East.

Sneaking peeks into private courtyards on a Secret Gardens of the Vieux Carré tour (Oct. 13 & 14; patioplanters.net).

21

8

20 (p. 32).

Globetrotting local musician Trombone Shorty, who returns this month with his Hometown Threauxdown (p. 12).

9

21

10

22

11

23

Newcomb Art Museum’s (p.

48) monthly pottery tours (Oct. 5 at noon).

Hamburgers cooked under hubcaps and the 24-hour Felliniesque floor show at Clover Grill (p. 24).

Acme Oyster House’s (p.

23) “mother shuckers,” who average 6,000 bivalves per day.

Restaurant R’evolution’s (p.

26) Death by Gumbo —what a way to go!

Soaking in the marble bathtub in which Napoleon is said to have signed the Louisiana Purchase at Le Pavillon Hotel (p. 63).

24

Conjuring up long-lost recipes at Kitchen Witch Books (p. 30)

12

Sipping Bela Lugosi’s Ashes tea while being fitted for custom-made fangs at Boutique du Vampyre (p. 32).

Having our tea leaves read at the Bottom of the Cup

2

25

The sun rising from the east…over the Westbank.

17

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, notable and not to be missed.

LEMONSHARK POKE The newest entree to the poke restaurant scene, LemonShark’s unique takes on the popular foodbowl trend set it apart. Along with rice (white or brown) and greens for a base, there is also quinoa, purple-black Forbidden rice and soba noodles. Order the Pokerrito, a big sushi-style roll, filled as you wish from an array of fresh fish, tofu, vegetables and crunchy, cool toppings. 2901 Magazine St., 504.518.6665 Jack Rose

FOOD+DRINK

NOLA Noir Black is the unofficially official color of Halloween, making October the perfect month for seeking out the inky-darkest foods to feed the soul. Think blackened fish, squid-ink pasta, charcoal, lava salt, black vinegar and black sesame seeds. There are loads of ways to dig into New Orleans’ dark side.

One of the dishes that helped launch a thousand others— blackened fish, the creation of dearly departed chef Paul Prudhomme— continues its legendary reign at K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen (p. 25).

And you can believe us when we tell you that almost every local restaurant menu features some sort of blackened item, from the tuna Napoleon at Desi Vega’s Steakhouse (628 St. Charles Ave., 504.523.7600) to tacos at Juan’s Flying Burrito (p.

27) to blackened chicken salad and sliders at District (p. 27).

Squid ink, most commonly used for coloring pasta, is well done (get it?) by chefs Brian Landry and David Whitmore, who pair black campanelle pasta with royal red shrimp and their deliciously murky Muddy Waters sauce at Jack Rose (p. 27). At Avo (p. 28) Nick Lama tosses together sweet Louisiana crabmeat, tomatoes, garlic and toasted breadcrumbs with housemade squid-ink linguini.

Black vinegar is a stunningly sharp condiment that pairs perfectly with the steamed vegetable dumplings at Jung’s Golden Dragon (p. 27). At Luvi (5236 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.605.3340) chef Hao Gong drapes bright orange slices of salmon over black sesame-crusted bananas for his Monkey Snack, while the Notorious Bacon Sundae at Green Goddess (p. 25) is a wild composition of ice cream, bacon, smoked whipped cream and crystals of black lava salt.

Raw Republic’s (4528 Magazine St., 504.324.8234) Sheena Maneena created a thirst-quenching, black-as-night refresher called “Potion X” (rose-hibiscus flower, cardamom, lemon, honey and activated coconut charcoal), which can be poured into an onyx crystal-embedded water bottle (sold separately).

This month, take your hunger… and paint it black. —Lorin Gaudin

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

MANOLITO Two locally beloved bartenders, Chris Hannah and Nick Detrich, put their passion for Cuba into this swish Havana-tribute bar and café. Pressed Cuban sandwiches (roast pork, ham, Swiss, pickles and mustard), Chicken “Gordon” Blue and the tender ropa vieja (long-cooked shredded beef and peppers) are tops for food. For cocktailing, there are no wrongs, but we’re stuck on the Jazz

Daiquiris and martinis, thrown in the Spanish-Cuban style, with orange bitters. 508 Dumaine St., 504.603.2740 NOLA Three words: Pork Cracklin Nachos. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter bistro has undergone a menu facelift, and the crack cooking team is clearly having fun. Dishes change with some frequency, so cross fingers that the Crispy Jerk Turkey leg is available. If not, no worries, there will always be Mama’s Stuffed Chicken Wings, tender Tamarind-Glazed Beef Cheeks and Buttermilk Fried Chicken Thighs with bourbon mashed sweet potatoes. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652 —LG

NOLA

ON THE SIDE Some time back, a powerhouse food magazine declared sweet potatoes “out.” How ridiculous. Sweet potatoes are beautiful, delicious and always “in”—especially when they are tender chunks of coal-roasted sweet potatoes generously dusted with big salt crystals at Marjie’s Grill (320 S. Broad St., 504.603.2234), where the year-round staple, a valuable Louisiana crop, is a menu mainstay. Chef Marcus Jacobs roasts big, orange-fleshed sweet potatoes directly on fire-hot coals until the skin has crackly char and the interior is pillow-soft. The play of silky, crunchy, sweet and salty is about as good as it gets. Marjie’s sweet potatoes come as a side dish option to meat plates, or do as we do and order them on their own with a cold beer. —LG

(TOP) ©RANDY SCHMIDT/JACK ROSE; (CENTER) ©NOLA; (BOTTOM) ©LORIN GAUDIN

WHERE NOW New

the guide A Feast for the (Sixth) Senses

Vine Dining

Sure, there are fortune tellers set up at card tables just steps away in front of St. Louis Cathedral, but do they offer fine dining? For that, head to Tableau (p. 26), where the month-long Evening With Spirits dinner series pairs a three-course, prix-fixe menu with readings by psychic medium Sid Patrick. Limited to groups of 20, the intimate gatherings take place Oct. 3, 9, 17, 30 and 31 in the restaurant’s wine room, where paranormal activity is said to have been recorded. Along with gallery-style sessions, Patrick will provide palm and numerology readings; on Oct. 30 and 31 he’ll be joined by fellow medium Trenny Simmons for individual readings.

Chef Mike Brewer, 2015 King of Louisiana Seafood, is out to reclaim his crown at the new “wine pub” Copper Vine (1009 Poydras St., 504.208.9535). Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, you’ll find Cajun caviar-topped oysters, gnocchi with lump crab and redfish bouillabaisse, as well as meatier options. Cheers!

Central Business/ Warehouse District

COMPANY BURGER—American. Adam Bider-

THE AMERICAN SECTOR— American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Frito pie served in the bag, meatloaf with garlic-mashed potatoes and onion rings and “Victory Garden” carrot cake. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.ww2eats.com.

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 AUCTION HOUSE MARKET— Eclectic. Sister to St.

Roch Market in the Bywater neighborhood, this bright, modern food hall offers a wide variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiian-inspired cuisines. $ B, L, D (daily). www.auctionhousemarket.com. 801 Magazine St., no phone. Map 3, C6 BRIQUETTE—Seafood. Contemporary coastal is the

catch at this sprawling Warehouse District space.

Follow the caramalized sea scallops with lump crab bisque, then dive into Louisiana redfish with crawfish relish or crispy-skin salmon with seafoodwakame salad. $$$ D (nightly). www.briquette-nola. com. 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

CAFÉ CARMO— International. This island-inspired

space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich—a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork—and shrimp-filled black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. $ B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.cafecarmo.com. 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS— Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON— Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7

man’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Handground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; housemade mayo and pickles; fresh-baked buns. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN— Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 EMERIL’S— Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6

(LEFT) ©TABLEAU; (RIGHT) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY/COPPER VINE

Dining October

424 Bourbon St.

|

504-309-1574

Pier424SeafoodMarket.com

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................20

French Quarter.........................................................................................23 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 27 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................27 Mid-City..........................................................................................................27 Uptown..........................................................................................................28

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com

Now Serving Lunch JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ— Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hip eatery puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L, D (daily). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant.com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE— Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. The “Peanut Butter Pie Budino” is a must for dessert. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 LUCY’S RETIRED SURFERS BAR & RESTAURANT— Eclectic. Its name and laid-back vibe hint at the Ca-

li-Mex offerings on the menu at this fun CBD spot.

Serious salads, juicy burgers and a variety of tacos pair perfectly with top-shelf margaritas. $$ L, D (daily); Sa-Su brunch. www.lucysretiredsurfers.com.

701 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.523.8995. Map 3, C6 MAYPOP—Vietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL— International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE— Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

DINING

Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 RED GRAVY— Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open

W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT AUGUST— French. Fine dining at its

finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www. restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHY—Seafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with

East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY— Deli. The St. James

is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. $ L (M-Sa), D (Th-Sa); Br (Su). www.stjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4 TSUNAMI—Sushi. At this sprawling sushi empo-

rium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Big appetites will want to hit the “Sumo Ribeye.” $$ L, D (MSa). www.servingsushi.com. 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE— Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters.

Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANTOINE’S— Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S— Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

“Shrimp Arnaud,” “Oysters Bienville” and “Café Brûlot” are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA— American. Bayona continues its reign

as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE— Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S— Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S— Creole. Broussard’s, established

in 1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots. Chef Jake Shapiro serves up longpopular classics, such as turtle soup and bronzed redfish with lump crab and mirliton slaw. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET— Coffee. Light fare, café drinks

and delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy coffeehouses. Adult beverages offered at Bourbon and Decatur locations. $ B, L, D (daily). Jazz performances daily; times vary. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE— Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CENTRAL GROCERY— Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). centralgrocery.com. 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 CLOVER GRILL— American. The prospect of big juicy

burgers, overstuffed omelets and a cheeky version of retro 1950s ambiance draws all walks of life to this Bourbon Street institution at all hours. $ Open 24 hours. www.clovergrill.com. 900 Bourbon St., 504.598.1010. Map 3, H4 COURT OF TWO SISTERS— Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu.

Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ D (nightly). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CURIO—American. Curious what “American cuisine

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola.com.

301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE— Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN— Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop with superior quality dryaged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard 510 Toulouse St. | 504.524.9632 | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

DINING

Indulge

in Family Traditions at Antoine’s Restaurant for Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Jazz Brunch!

collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan. com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 GALATOIRE’S— Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GREEN GODDESS— Eclectic. Chef Paul Artigues

creates big-flavored, adventurous dishes in the tiny kitchen of this intimate Exchange Alley gem. Possibly the only place in town you’ll find beet hummus and truffle grits sharing menu space with wild-boar meatloaf and decadent bacon sundaes. $ L, D (W-Su). www.greengoddessrestaurant.com. 307 Exchange Place, 504.301.3347. Map 3, E4

504-581-4422 www.a ntoines.com 713 Rue Saint Louis New Orl ea ns, LA 70130

GW FINS— Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has

taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ— American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 IRENE’S CUISINE— Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic

Josephine Estelle

and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. Think of the long wait (no reservations) as part of the charm. $$ D (MSa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5 ITALIAN BARREL— Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.theitalianbarrel.com/. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN— Louisiana. Chef-

Southern fare, the Italian way

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.

His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER POBOYS— Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

600 Carondelet St 504.930.3070 @josephineestelle josephineestelle.com

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH— Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular dining spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL— American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LANDRY’S SEAFOOD—Seafood. Landry’s

locations fittingly offer sweeping views of the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain. The menu is loaded with a wide array of Louisiana coastal cuisine, from shrimp po’ boys to trout meunière, in addition to other specialties. $$ L, D (daily). www.landrysseafood.com. 620 Decatur St., 504.581.9825. Map 3, G5; 8000 Lakeshore Dr., 504.283.1010. Map 1, D1 LONGWAY TAVERN— Eclectic. A proper gastropub

with a comfy chic interior, solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. Fried calamari with blistered tomatoes and charred lemons, hefty steak sandwiches with roasted mushrooms and pork belly home fries will make you linger a while. $ L (F-Su), D (nightly). www.longwaytavern.com. 719 Toulouse St., no phone. Map 3, G4 MEAUXBAR— French. French bistro standards

tweaked with a thoughtful, modern hand. Dishes include escargot with shiitakes in brandy cream and mussels nestled in a harrisa broth, crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. $$ D (nightly); Br (Su). www.meauxbar.com. 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3 MR. B’S BISTRO— Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE— Creole. Overlooking

Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Erik Venéy’s contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfish-andgoat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa, Su jazz brunch). www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE— Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY— Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉ—Vietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle

26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA— American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro recently received a full makeover to mark its 25th anniversary. The new small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oyster-and-brie pot pie. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP— Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com.

132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ— Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL— Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 RED TRUCK CLUBHOUSE— Italian. At this art-filled

restaurant and bar, the pizzas are big, crisp and topped lushly, with options range from vegan to serious carnivore. The Meatzza is packed with pepperoni, salami, alligator sausage, pork jowl and smoked sausage. $$ L, D (daily). www.10footpizza. com. 740 N. Rampart St., 504.407.3484. Map 3, G3 REMOULADE— Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade. com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION— Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ— Eclectic. A two-for-one special.

Downstairs it’s all about the amazing macarons and desserts, while upstairs swings savory with crawfish mac and cheese, chicken poutine, steak frites and wagyu sliders. $$ Br (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon. com. 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 SOBOU— Contemporary. The focus at this “south of

Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 TABLEAU— Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef

DINING

John Martin. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE— Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE— French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 DISTRICT— Coffee. Donuts. Sliders. Brew. That’s the

way District bills itself, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this kicked-up coffee shop: craft-style donuts with rotating flavors (try the Vietnamese coffee variety), savory sliders and nitro-brewed coffee on tap. $ B, L, D (daily). www.donutsandsliders. com. 2209 Magazine St., 504.570.6945. Map 1, D4 JACK ROSE— Contemporary. This bold, contempo-

rary space in the toney Ponchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think tableside Caesers of kale and cauliflower or squid-ink pasta with shrimp in a cayenne-kicked barbecue sauce. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. $$$ L (F), D (W-Su); Br (Su). www.jackroserestaurant.com.

2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4 JUAN’S FLYING BURRITO— Mexican. Can a Mexican

joint be both funky and family friendly? Uh, yes, if it’s called Juan’s, where the jerk chicken and mango salad is almost a spiritual experience, and the “Gutter Punk” burrito will turn you into a regular customer. $ L, D (daily). www.juansflyingburrito. com. 515 Baronne St., 504.529.5825. Map 3, C4; 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.9950. Map 1, D3; 2018 Magazine St., 504.569.0000. Map 1, D4 JUNG’S GOLDEN DRAGON— Chinese. For three

decades Jung’s has been turning out perfectly wonderful American-Chinese cuisine. But the sleeper dishes come from its “secret” menu: tender pan-fried dumplings filled with pork or shrimp, fresh vegetables wok-cooked just right and chicken with hot peppers, to name a few. $$ L, D (daily). www.jungsgoldendragon2.com. 3009 Magazine St., 504.891.8280. Map 1, D4 TURKEY AND THE WOLF— Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L (WM). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL— Eclectic. This combo wine retail

shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dive into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard.

Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO—American. The

menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried Gulf oysters with oyster gravy and jasmine rice; try the rabbit curry. $$ D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www. bywateramericanbistro.com. 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB— Louisiana. Known for its

swimming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into bigflavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 NEW ORLEANS CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY— Dessert.

Steven “the Cake Man” Himelfarb offers breakfast and lunch at his charming Bywater café, but it’s cake that’s the beloved baker’s calling card. Pecan praline with butter-pecan frosting, bananas Foster with banana icing, classic red velvet—yummy. $$ B, L (W-M). www.nolacakes.com. 2440 Chartres St., 504.943.0010. Map 3, K6 PALADAR 511— Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 POKE-CHAN— Hawaiian. The order at this pretty oa-

sis-of-a-restaurant is build-your-own bowls of fresh greens, rice, veg and raw fish. Cooked options include salt-flecked kaarage (fried chicken) and tender unagi (eel). $ L, D (daily). www.poke-chan.com.

2809 St. Claude Ave., 504.571.5446. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION— Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET— Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ— Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN— Louisiana. The

menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. They come as “large” (translation: gargantuan) or “small” (large). Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, ham, turkey, catfish, meatballs and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list. $ L, D

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

(W-M). www.parkwaypoorboys.com. 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2

Fun Cajun Spot in the Warehouse District offering Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & Weekend Brunch!

Happy 3-6pm.

PIECE OF MEAT— Italian. The menu at this petit

butcher shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheese-and-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs. Grab a pint of smoked chicken salad from the take-away fridge. $ L (Th-Tu), D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.pieceofmeatbutcher. com. 3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289. Map 1, D3

Large screen TV, perfect for watching college and NFL games.

RALPH’S ON THE PARK— Louisiana. Veteran restau-

rateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.ralphsonthepark. com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 REVEL CAFÉ & BAR— Eclectic. Cocktail guru Chris

McMillian mans the bar at his casual cafÊ, while chef Chris DeBarr does kitchen duty. The menu offers artisanal meat-and-cheese boards, seasonal soups, seafood salads, lots of daily specials and, of course, great craft cocktails. $ L (F-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.revelcafeandbar.com. 133 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.309.3612. Map 1, D2 1000 FIGS— Mediterranean. This popular Mid-City

spot is the brick-and-mortar space of the team behind the equally popular Fat Falafel food truck.

Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj and lamb. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.1000figs.com. 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2

Fun Cajun Spot in the Warehouse District offering Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner &ÄˆÄ ÄŠĆŤ Ä‹ĆŤ !0!./ĆŤ 0Ä‹ĆŤ Weekend Brunch! !3ĆŤ .(! */ÄŒĆŤ +1%/% * ĆŤÄˆÄ€Ä ÄƒÄ€

719 S. Peters St. New Orleans, Louisiana 70130

TOUPS’ MEATERY— Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

(Toups South) is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,� a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com.

845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3 WILLIE MAE’S SCOTCH HOUSE— Southern. This

beloved neighborhood eatery draws foodies from around the globe with its famous fried chicken and other Southern standards. $ L (MSa). www.williemaesnola.com. 2401 St. Ann St., 504.822.9503. Map 1, D3

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

Uptown AVO— Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE— Southern. Looking for a great

off-the-beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L (Tu-Sa); D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www. boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET— Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s Riverbend restaurant is light and airy. His market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail totsâ€? and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flashfried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and bĂŠarnaise. $$ L (Th-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su).

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018 NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 1, C3 CAVAN—Seafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots and salmon poke tacos before devouring the chicken fried rabbit or turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DTB— Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB

pays homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. Killer cocktail program. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 LA BOULANGERIE— Bakery. This French bakery

doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted.

Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own.

Wine, beer and cocktails are also offered. $ B, L (M-Sa). laboulangerienola.com. 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY— French. An intimate French

KRYSTAL CUSTOM BREAKFAST 3 EGG BREAKFAST & BEVERAGE

5.99

$

bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE— Italian. A New Orleans land-

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS— Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all

of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). www.patoisnola.com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 SAFFRON NOLA— Indian. Chic Indian fare with

contemporary flair. Top picks include the pakoda choti and roti sathi. $$$ L (F-Sa), D (TuSa). www.saffronnola.com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4 SHAYA— Mediterranean. This modern Mediter-

ranean eatery’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant.com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 UPPERLINE— Creole. You’ll see wizards painted on

* Consuming raw or undercooked meats, poultry, seafood, shellfish, or eggs may increase your risk of foodborne illness, especially if you have a medical condition.

©2018 Copyright The Krystal Company. All rights reserved.

the exterior and an eclectic art collection inside, both products of the fully original character of owner JoAnn Clevenger, who invented the musttry fried green tomatoes with remoulade. Don’t miss the oysters St. Claude or duck-and-andouille etouffée. $$ D (W-Su). www.upperline.com. 1413 Upperline St., 504.891.9822. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

Shopping

Hey, Hatter Hatter!

A Charming Idea

Heads up, headwear fans: New Orleans is home to a number of great hat shops. For 124 years Meyer the Hatter (p. 32) has been keeping dudes dapper with classic straws, felts and porkpies, along with contemporary styles. Understated isn’t a word usually associated with the chic chapeaux at Fleur de Paris (p. 32); think feminine, elegant and way over-the-top. Classic designs (cloches, fedoras, flatcaps) get modern-minded updates at Goorin Bros. Hats (p. 32), while self-made milliner Colby Hébert incorporates natural elements, such as alligator, beaver felt and rabbit fur, in his “swamp chic” creations at The Cajun Hatter (4516 Magazine St., 504.875.4644).

Want to leave dinner guests spellbound?

Work your magic with SeaGem Studios’ Voodoo Collection of ceramic toothpick holders and serving trays. You’ll spot them at Crescent City Cooks (p. 43), Defend New Orleans (p. 30) and the gift shop at the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 46), along with SeaGem’s handcrafted oyster shells.

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP— Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. www.beckhamsbookshop.com/. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 CRESCENT CITY BOOKS— Louisiana’s sole member

of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to a large selection of vintage books, the shop offers maps, prints and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. www.crescentcitybooks.com. 124 Baronne St., 504.524.4997. Map 3, E3 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS— For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP— This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 KITCHEN WITCH— New, used and vintage cook-

books are on the menu at this charming shop geared to foodies. Special emphasis is placed on hard-to-find Southern titles and rare volumes devoted to Creole and Cajun cuisine. www.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here.

Catering to locals and in-the-know visiwheretraveler.com LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY— There’s tors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky no better place in town to stock up on graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired new or used CDs by local artists. Select slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., posters, books and videos also offered. www.

504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 H&M— This Swedish-based retail chain is known SKULLY’Z RECORDZ— This small music shop is big around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-toon new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothImports, obscure albums and works by indepening is featured, along with hip home accents. www. dent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4 HEMLINE— Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, accessories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, LaunClothing dry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline.

BILLY REID— Award-winning designer Reed’s chic com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; boutiques are found all over the country—and 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4 now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s PIPPEN LANE— Go ahead and spoil the child at this fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and upscale boutique, which features fine designer accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish Eu504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 ropean shoes, custom furniture and embroidered DEFEND NEW ORLEANS— Part T-shirt shop, part linens. www.pippenlane.com. 2930 Magazine St., boutique and part home store. With its iconic 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4 skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip TASC— Originating in New Orleans, this popular line spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., to its success is its eco-conscious fabric that blends 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5; 504.484.9830. resulting in soft, durable performance apparel.

DIRTY COAST— Just when you thought New Orleans www.tascperformance.com. 3913 Magazine St., couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4 kwcookbooks.com. 1452 Broad St., 504.528.8382. Map 1, D2

THE FRENCH MARKET —the nation’s oldest public produce market—stands on the site of a former Native American trading post established during pre-colonial days.

30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

(LEFT) ©GOORIN BROS. HATS; (RIGHT) ©SEGEMS STUDIOS

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 30

Clothing........................................................................................................ 30 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 32 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 32 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 33 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 33 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 34 Special Services...................................................................................... 34

TRASHY DIVA— Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. www.trashydiva. com. 829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS— A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4

Gifts & Collectibles BOTTOM OF THE CUP— In addition to psychic read-

ings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories. Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. www.bottomofthecup.com. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4 BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRE—Searching for a set of

custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. www.feelthebite.com. 709 St. Ann St., 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4 BUNGALOWS— This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE— Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative 32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILES—Search-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU— Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers handcrafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY—This magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY— This eclectic gift shop features

toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP— You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures.

New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.littletoyshopnola.com/. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 THE MASK GALLERY—Austrian crystals, hand-tolled

leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations. www.neworleansmask.com. 841 Royal St., 504.523.6664. Map 3, F4 NOLA KIDS— This French Quarter children’s bou-

tique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME— It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume. com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4

Hats & Accessories FLEUR DE PARIS— You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fdphats.com. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS— The city’s newest hat shops

National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church

 Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing  Religious Articles  Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street) (504) 525-2495 seelos.org

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date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER— The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer

3436 Magazine st. | 504.899.5415

SHOPPING

and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK— Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

BRING NEW ORLEANS HOME S T E R L I N G S I LV E R J E W E L R Y INSPIRED BY NEW ORLE ANS

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803. Map 1, D4

Health & Beauty/Spas FIFI MAHONY’S— In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ— Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

719 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70116 504.522.9222 © 2018 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME—“The oldest perfumer

in the South” lives on thanks to her great grandnephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines, such as Ormond Jayne, Memo and Eight & Bob, are featured. www.madameaucoinperfume.com. 608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975. Map 3, F4 PLANET BEACH—This French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 504.525.8266. Map 3, F3 THE SPA AT THE RITZ-CARLTON— This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA— Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA— This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

Jewelry ART & EYES— The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. artandeyesneworleansla.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE

FLEUR D’ORLEANS— French Quarter cast iron,

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop.

As its name suggests, fleurs-de-lis are prominent. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4

AROUND THE bea SQUARE bea

Experience the Charm of the Historic French Quarter

GOGO— Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

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Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 KREWE— Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-

nered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4 PORTER LYONS—Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is

a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-andmortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5

Malls/Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER— A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2

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324 Chartres St. ShoeBeDoUSA.com 504-523-7463

THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK— Located

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within walking distance of the CBD and French Quarter. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7

10:30am-6pm 7 days a week

THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE— Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Special Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM— In addi-

tion to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.net. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICES—Why bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

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Galleries+Antiques The Dark Arts Something strange is happening on Royal Street, where a number of galleries now have a decidedly dark edge. Take photographer Frank Relle’s (p. 35) moody “nightscapes” and the haunting “treescapes” at Tanner Gallery & Studio (p. 38).

The walls have eyes at the Funeral Gallery (p. 35), home to artist/owner Vinsantos’ creepy/comical assemblage art dolls, while antique doll parts and prosthetic eyes bring Betsy Youngquist’s beaded surrealist sculptures to life at Gallery 2 (p. 35, shown). At Antieau Gallery (p.

35) taxidermy deer heads are covered with embroidered “memory masks” and infamous murder scenes are recreated in macabre dollhouses, but if it’s really out-there you’re after, pull into Red Truck Gallery (p. 38), where Jesus and Satan go mano a mano in glass bottles and bunnies sprout horns and wings.

Central Business/ Warehouse District ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY— One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY— This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY— This gallery is

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES— Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY— Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 ©GALLERY 2

STELLA JONES GALLERY— New Orleans’ preeminent

exhibition space for African-American artists,

featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www.stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

French Quarter ANGELA KING GALLERY— One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichertl and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery. com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY— Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE— A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS— The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made

at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custombuilt on-site. www.bevolo.com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY— The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY—Award-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FUNERAL GALLERY— Offbeat illustrations, macabre

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.funeralgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4 GALLERY 2— Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4

CHRIS-ROBERTS ANTIEAU counts two local galleries...and her appliqué artworks are counted among the personal collections of Bill Clinton, Oprah Winfrey and John Waters. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 35

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 35

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 35 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................38

GALLERY ORANGE— Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in here. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HAROUNI GALLERY— David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES— Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES— This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY— This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS— The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4

617 B i e nvi lle Stre et

for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4

New O rleans

LUCULLUS— An antique shop specializing in objects

MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY— Renowned photog-

rapher Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques.

Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. www.modernistcuisinegallery. com. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map 3, F4 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

Sun–Wed: 10–6 Thu–Sat: 10–9 michalopoulos .com

THE GUIDE

OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO—

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. Originals, giclées and prints are offered. www.artgallerynola.com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4 RED TRUCK GALLERY— “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO— This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 TANNER GALLERY & STUDIO— Home to local artist

Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.” Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329— A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses and vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART— This gallery features fine

works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by ToulouseLautrec. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

2

C E L E B R AT I N G

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ALEX BEARD STUDIO— This gallery features

the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY—Step into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 STUDIO SOLITARIO— Monet, Hopper, Sargent:

Solitario’s artistic influences are evident in his stunning coastal landscapes and still-life studies.

Counted among the Ogden Museum’s permanent collection, his works are also available for purchase at his Uptown gallery. www.billysolitario.com. 4531 Magazine St., 504.905.4175. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY— Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES— Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

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THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Hooray for Hollywood South

The Big Picture

Movie buffs are in for a big treat this month with the arrival of the 29th annual New Orleans Film Festival (neworleansfilmfestival.org) Oct. 17-25. Culled from 6,000 submissions from 120 countries, the celluloid celebration spotlights 220 films (more than a quarter of which were filmed in Louisiana) at venues citywide. Headquartered at the Contemporary Arts Center (p. 46) the fest features a number of world premieres, including “Buckjumping” by award-winning local director Lily Keber (“Bayou Maharajah”), and closes out with a screening of “A Tuba to Cuba,” which chronicles the Preservation Hall Jazz Band’s exploration of the musical connection between New Orleans and Havana.

The New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 47) held its first photography exhibit in 1918.

Now 100 years later, NOMA has mounted Past Present Future, a three-part presentation that features vintage images included in the 1918 exhibit, along with recent photographic acquisitions and new works that have been promised to the museum.

ARMSTRONG PARK— Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS— This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTARIUM— The nation’s largest museum devoted to

insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK— Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

AUDUBON ZOO— Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

space plays host to free fan fests during 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year.

Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. wheretraveler.com $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 www.champions-square.com. 1500 Poydras ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2 St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open daily CINEBARRE CANAL PLACE 9— This state-of-the-art at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.audubonmovie theater offers nine separate screens, along institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or with in-seat dining from its in-house café and bar.

800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 www.thetheatres.com. The Shops at Canal Place, CEMETERIES— New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 the dead” act as windows on the past, offering inCITY PARK— Abundant live oaks provide a lush sight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; larger even than New York’s Central Park. www.

Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 of her works there. Many are located in high-crime CRESCENT PARK— Looking for a unique view of the areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or day or night. climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEMstreets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront ETERY—Just down the river from where Andrew promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter to Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers jogging his name is the battlefield where he fought the last and biking pathsand picture-perfect picnic areas. battle of the War of 1812. History buffs can check www.crescentparknola.org. Map 3, J6 out the visitor center, listen to daily ranger talks, ESCAPE MY ROOM—The concept of this live, interacexplore Chalmette National Cemetery or relax tive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an under the park’s live oaks. https://www.nps.gov/ hour and you and your teammates “escape” the jela/chalmette-battlefield.htm. 8606 W St Bernard mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and Hwy., 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3 fun) than that. A great activity for families and CHAMPIONS SQUARE—This open-air venue, adjagroup team-building. Reservations required. cent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts www.escapemyroom.com. 633 Constance St., 45,000 sq. ft. and state-of-the-art technology. The 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6

IN THE SUMMER OF 1955, the Pontchartrain Beach amusement park hosted its second annual Hillbilly Jamboree, which featured an up-and-coming regional musician named Elvis Presley.

40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

(LEFT) ©NEW ORLEANS FILM FESTIVAL; (RIGHT) ©NOMA

Attractions & Landmarks

THE GUIDE

10AM UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 61-63.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................40

Cooking Classes .....................................................................................43 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................43 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 46 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 47 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 50

FRENCH MARKET— America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 FULTON ALLEY— Putting a fresh spin on the old

bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor (bocce, foosball, etc.), cool craft cocktails and big-flavored small plates. Not a bowler? Not a prob. Both the bar and restaurant are accessible separately from the alley. www.fultonalley.com.

600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569. Map 3, D6 HARRAH’S CASINO— The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleansthemed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE— The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND PRESERVE— On this 23,000-acre area of protected

wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways allow you to explore deep into the swamp. www.nps.gov/jela. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882.

MARDI GRAS WORLD— It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $22 adults/ children, $17 seniors/students with college ID, $14 ages 11-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDES-BENZ SUPERDOME— The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 THE MORTUARY HAUNTED HOUSE— Named

one of “America’s Scariest Attractions” by the 42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

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Travel Channel, this actively haunted mansion is just a streetcar ride away from the French Quarter. www.themortuary.net. 4800 Canal St., 504.483.2350. Map 1, D2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS—

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK— This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4 OLD URSULINE CONVENT— Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral. org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER— Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of ma-

jor concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH— Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. A jazz Mass is held Sundays at 10 am. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL— Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 WOLDENBERG PARK— This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cooking Classes CRESCENT CITY COOKS!— Learn the secrets

of New Orleans-style cuisine from chefs who conduct two-hour classes daily (10 am), and taste the results afterward during lunch; prices vary.

Hands-on classes are also offered, along with a

large selection of spices and culinary utensils. www.crescentcitycooks.com. 201 Chartres St., 504.529.1600. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISIANA GENERAL STORE— Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES— Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES— Explore Lake

Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did.

Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with moonlight and twilight outings. Transportation available; prices vary. Call for reservations and launch locations. www.canoeandtrail.com.

504.233.0686.

CELEBRATION TOURS— This company provides

intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

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Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. www. celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SEGWAY TOURS— Why walk when you can

glide? Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. Private excursions are also available. www.citysegwaytours.com. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING— This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS— These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered, along with customized bike tours. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER— Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 DRINK & LEARN— Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280.

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS— All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. Tales & Tastes: Your Ultimate Food and Cocktail Tour –Th-Su, 7 pm; call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 FRENCH QUARTOUR KIDS— These guided walks

take children on a journey back in time through the streets of the historic Vieux Carré. Tours offered daily and by appointment; check website for current schedule. Call for reservations and locations. www.frenchquartourkids.com. 504.975.5355.

FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO— Informative, two-hour

walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. $20 adults, $15 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. www.friendsofthecabildo.org. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5 GRAY LINE TOURS— Gray Line offers a variety of city

Celebrating 300 Years of New Orleans As New Orleans celebrates its 300th anniversary, The Historic New Orleans Collection presents exhibitions that chronicle the city’s development and growth, a guided tour of an elegant French Quarter residence, and a museum shop with locally inspired gifts, books, prints, and jewelry. Discover the stories of New Orleans at The Historic New Orleans Collection.

For more details, visit www.hnoc.org.

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs.

Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5/7.25 hrs.

Whitney Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2

Follow us! @visit_thnoc 533 Royal Street & 400–410 Chartres Street In the French Quarter (504) 523-4662 • www.hnoc.org

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hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.

Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.Plantation/Brunch/Swamp Combo –8.75 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS— Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am and 1:15 pm from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.).

Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 and

7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www. hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

KAYAK-ITI-YAT— Kayak tours of beautiful Bayou

St. John, which cuts a scenic swatch through the midsection of the city, are offered daily; call for launch times. $40/two hours; $65/four hours. Combine cruisers and kayaks; $110. www. kayakitiyat.com. (Bayou St. John tours launch across from 3494 Esplanade Ave.) 985.778.5034 ; 512.964.9499. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS— Get fit and

informed at the same time. Guided jogs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized tours are also available.

Groups meet at the corner of Decatur and Barracks streets. www.neworleansjoggingtours.com.

504.858.9988 Map 3, I5 NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOUR—These

guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs nightly at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. www.spiritsandspellstour.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES— St. Louis Cemetery No. 1:

departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm, and Su at 10 am from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under. Lafayette Cemetery No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org.

504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ— The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR— Daily

guided tours, 9 am-4 pm, except major holidays. $5.50; under 4, free. Jungle Gardens and Bird City tours: $8, under 12, $5. www.tabasco.com. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2 VIP CITY TOURS— These two-hour excursions offer

a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm. www.vipcitytours.com.

2314 Iberville St., 504.329.2489. Map 1, D3 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS— These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from701 Royal St.; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

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Museums & Exhibits BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM— Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display.

Admission $10; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www. backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 BEAUREGARD-KEYES HOUSE— This beautifully

restored 1826 villa and garden was the home of Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $9 seniors/ students, $7.50 active military, $4 ages 6-12, under 6 free. www.bkhouse.org. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4

The ONLY Non-Profit Touring Organization Dedicated to Cemetery Promotion, Preservation, Restoration & Education.

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER— The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. $10; $8 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www. cacno.org. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 GALLIER HOUSE— The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4 HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE— Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION— This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM— Children learn

through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans” and “New Orleans: Proud to Call It Home.” Adults/children $8.50. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, noon-4:30 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 Julia St., 504.523.1357. Map 3, C6 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS— Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Arsenal (inside 46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

Join us for walking tours through some of the most fascinating cemeteries in New Orleans. Reserve at SaveOurCemeteries.org or call 504-525-3377.

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the Cabildo)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: “The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History.”

1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St.)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors/ active military, children under 6 free. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St.)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Currently closed for renovations.

New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint

(400 Esplanade Ave.)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Second-floor exhibits trace the history of jazz in the city, from its inception to today. Presbytère (Jackson Square)–Continuing: “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” and “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond.” For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM— This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free

for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries” and “Final Mission” an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM—

Explore this misunderstood religion through the museum’s artifacts and exhibits. $7 adults, $5.50 seniors/military/college students, $4.50 high school students, $3.50 under 12. Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. www.voodoomuseum.com. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART— One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open M-F, 10 am-6 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM— This former

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org.

514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4

NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM— The Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa, 11 am-4 pm. newcombartmuseum.tulane. edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART— The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free).

Open Fri-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM—

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10.50; students/ seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. www.southernfood.org. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3

Cocktails ALTO— Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop

bar, which offers amazing views and poolside

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dining. Open daily, 10 am-9 pm. www.acehotel. com/neworleans/alto. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map3, C5 ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75— Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYOU WINE GARDEN—This casual Mid-City spot

offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. Cheese and charcuterie boards are also available, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. www.bayouwinegarden.com. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3 EFFERVESCENCE—This bubbly spot features 90-plus

bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from grilled octopus to caviar and potato chips. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 HERMES BAR— This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders. www.antoines. com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN— Named after a Tennessee Williams play—

the author once stayed here—this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP— This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 MOLLY’S AT THE MARKET— Musicians and media

types, literati and eccentrics: Good old Molly’s has one of the best mixes of French Quarter folk (and with-the-beat visitors) at any hour of the day or night. www.mollysatthemarket.net. 1107 Decatur St., 504.525.5169. Map 3, I5 NOLA BREWING—Weekly brewery tours, a massive

tap room and in-house barbecue make this a muststop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers. www.nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 PAT O’BRIEN’S— Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB— This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 RICK’S CABARET— This 18,000 square-foot venue—

named one of “America’s Best Strip Clubs” by Playboy magazine—offers two floors, a great sound system and a private VIP section. www.iknowrick. com. 315 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, F4 SAZERAC BAR— Thirties elegance and classic

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Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 WALK-ON’S— Fittingly within walking distance of

the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. Looking for a rowdy atmosphere with selfserve taps in which to watch the game? You’ve found it. www.walk-ons.com. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL— This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE— This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CAROUSEL BAR— Located in the Hotel Monteleone,

this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. Live music nightly. www.hotelmonteleone.com. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4 CHICKIE WAH WAH— This hot venue keeps the

Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 844.244.2543. Map 1, D3 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE— An elegant escape

inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy smll paltes, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 GASA GASA— Live music, local art exhibitions, film

screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown music venue. A rotating cast of food trucks is available, and restaurants are within walking distance. www.gasagasa.com. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3 HI-HO LOUNGE— This legendary dive got a post-

Katrina makeover, complete with an expanded stage and new sound system. But thankfully the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever.

Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque. www.hiholounge.net. 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4 HOUSE OF BLUES— The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 HOWLIN’ WOLF— This locally owned and operated

club features low cover charges and low attitude.

Acts include both local favorites and big names; the music ranges from punk to straight-ahead rock. www.thehowlinwolf.com. 907 S. Peters St., 504.529.5844. Map 3, C7 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE—This stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club

features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LITTLE GEM SALOON— This long-neglected jazz

landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene.

The recently renovated supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAPLE LEAF— A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 MUSIC BOX VILLAGE— Make your own kind of music

at this whimsical wonderland, where ramshackle huts double as instruments. The one-of-a-kind venue also hosts live performances. www.musicboxvillage.com. 4557 N. Rampart St.. Map 1, E3 ONE EYED JACKS— Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-

burlesque: this French Quarter swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. www.oneeyedjacks.net. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4 PRESERVATION HALL— Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS— One of downtown’s

hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. www.republicnola.com. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6 ROCK ‘N’ BOWL— A legendary local favorite, Rock

’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. Highly recommended. www.rockandbowl.com. 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700. Map 1, D3 SNUG HARBOR— An elegant, intimate mainstay of

Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT— This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN— Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE MUSES— This hip venue offers a veritable

nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S— The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic,

always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE

Navigate Praise Worthy

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION— Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY— Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING— It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING— Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY— Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE— Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE— Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING— Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY— A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS— Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES— The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS— New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS— Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2019.

52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

©GLGK PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

A night out on Bourbon Street may suggest a town built on loose morals, but all it takes is a stroll through Jackson Square, the original heart of the city, to find New Orleans’ spiritual center. Since its founding in 1718, religion has played an important role in Crescent City life as evidenced by the location of St. Louis Cathedral—the oldest active Catholic cathedral in the United States—which anchors the French Quarter (p. 53). The third church to occupy the site (a hurricane destroyed the first in 1722; the second burned in the Great Fire of 1788), the current building was completed during the 1850s. Today the cathedral continues to serve as the city’s holy high ground with Mass said daily and the church’s bells tolling every quarter hour.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index General Information........................................................................... 52 Nearby Destinations............................................................................53 Cajun Country...........................................................................................53 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 53 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 53 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................53 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................53 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 53 Transportation ....................................................................................... 52

CENTRAL CITY—This once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER— The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN— Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW— Ranch-style homes and other modern

TAXICABS— Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING— The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS— Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER— A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT (CBD)— The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD— Nearly wiped off the map by

Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include the Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY (FAUBOURG MARIGNY)— Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MID-CITY— Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND— Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ (FAUBOURG TREMÉ)— The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT— This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts.

Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK— A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communi-

ties, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY— Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. Vermillion Parish, “the most Cajun place on earth,” draws outdoor enthusiasts with its hunting, fishing and some of the best birding in the country. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory. www.lafayettetravel.com; www.vermillion.org, www.cajuncountry.org.

JEFFERSON PARISH— Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE— Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com.

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA— Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. 800.688.2732; www.houmatravel.com. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 53

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French Quarter History Tours, Plantation Tours, Cocktail and Culinary Tours, Swamp Tours, Tricentennial and Tour Activities.

Experience New Orleans: 855.353.6634 or 504.484.9135 MustDoNola.com

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Shades of the Past During the early 19th century, plantation homes lacked many modern amenities, but life along River Road was anything but dull and dreary. A number of historic homes that are now open to the public illustrate just how vibrant the era actually was. Take “Steamboat Gothic” San Francisco (shown), for example, with its myriad architectural influences, where skilled artisans were brought in to handpaint the ornate ceilings and faux-grain woodwork. Or Houmas House, the “Crown Jewel of River Road,” where the striking interiors mirror the gorgeous grounds, which provide a year-round riot of color. Laura reflects its Creole heritage with vivid exterior hues of ocher, red and blue, while antebellum homes erected by Americans, such as Nottoway (the “White Castle of Louisiana”) and Oak Alley, were typically painted white.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION— A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION— This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS—

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION— This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM— Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE— This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM— De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION— This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

©SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION— This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T RY

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 58 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 58 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 59 Dining........................................................................................................... 60

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION— Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION— Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS— Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION— Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION— One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION— This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION— “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION— The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE— In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION— This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM— Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN— The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 60 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE— Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE— Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE— During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ— Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ— This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING— Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION— Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s oaks and seasonally inspired Cajun and Creole fare, with daily lunch and dinner specials. The bar, located in what was once the Randolph-family bowling alley, features classic Louisiana cocktails, local beers and an extensive wine list. B, L, D (daily); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT— Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 1 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 2 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

First-Time Visitors

Romantics

Sports Buffs

Predating the city itself, the (1) French Market is the oldest public market in the U.S. The open-air venue offers a number of food stalls, in addition to fresh produce, souvenirs and collectibles.

Due to its below-sea-level positioning, many visitors leave without ever catching a glimpse of the Mississippi River. The (2) Natchez provides the perfect opportunity with both daytime excursions and dinner jazz cruises. Keep an ear out for its high-pitched, steam-powered calliope.

Warm southern nights call for cool jazz, and it doesn’t get much cooler than (3) Preservation Hall, which has been preserving the city’s timehonored jazz customs since 1961. Don’t want to sit on the floor or stand in back? Call ahead to reserve “Big Shot” seats.

“I don’t want you to sell food,” restaurateur Joe Fein told staff when he purchased the (1) Court of Two Sisters in 1963. “I want you to sell romance and history!” That tradition continues with daily jazz brunch in its famed courtyard, where numerous proposals have taken place.

Forget candlelight; it’s flickering gaslight that sets French Quarter visitors’ hearts aflutter.

Stop by (2) Bevolo to see its signature lamps being made by hand. A plantation country day trip takes visitors out of the city and into an entirely different era. (3) Houmas House is one of the most opulent and the setting for countless weddings. Roam the grounds with the roving peacocks, have a drink in the Turtle Bar, then tuck in for the night on site.

The (1) Mercedes-Benz Superdome has played host to seven Super Bowls, five Men’s Final Fours, four BCS National Championships, the Pro Bowl and 42 Sugar Bowls, along with the legendary Ali-Spinks “September to Remember” bout. Football, baseball, track: (2) City Park’s Tad Gromley Stadium has been a popular sporting venue for area athletes since the 1930s. Site of U.S. Track and Field Trials for the 1992 Olympics, the stadium is also where the Beatles performed on their first U.S. tour.

Where to celebrate after the game? Even if you’re not a big sports fan, you’re sure to stumble upon a good time on (3) Bourbon Street.

Just remember, it’s not whether you win or lose…but how you handle your Hurricanes.

64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I O C TO B E R 2018

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UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS