Where Magazine New Orleans Nov 2017

NOVEMBER 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

®

wheretraveler.com BOUDIN, BOURBON & BEER BAYOU CLASSIC PROSPECT.4

BREAD WINNERS Big Easy bakeries, serious sandwiches and more to chew on

Fresh Florida

STONE CRABS Now Available

Open 5 p.m. Daily • 322 Magazine Street • 504.522.7902 • chophousenola.com

ART & EY&S

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494

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New Orleans CONTENTS

11.17

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the plan

the guide 24

9 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

John Fitzpatrick Bourbon Orleans concierge.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood.

Plus eating with Emeril and Isaac Toups’ culinary club.

10 Editor’s Itinerary A 90-minute exploration of Esplanade Avenue to make the most of your time in the city.

12 Hot Dates

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus “experienced” pots and sugarplum central.

Bayou Classic The Battle of the Bands, JayZ, the Tremé Creole Gumbo Festival, the “Nutcracker” goes hip-hop and 30 other entertainment ideas.

14

GALLERIES &

41 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl.

Plus the luxe life and breathtaking beadwork.

47 ENTERTAINMENT XX Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus vocalist Amanda Ducorbie and Saints and Pelican home games.

XX

58

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus the Tammany Trace.

72 New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for sports fans, romance seekers and family visitors.

ON THE COVER Croissant-andoullie pigs in a blan-

NOVEMBER 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

®

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mustard from

where now

XX

66

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus a fresh perspective on the past.

BAYOU CLASSIC

14 Local Flavor

BREAD WINNERS Big Easy bakeries, serious sandwiches and more to chew on

French bread loaves, cakes, cookies, pies and tarts: Big Easy bakeries are back in a big way.

Willa Jean Bakery. ©RUSH JAGOE

17

BOUDIN, BOURBON & BEER

PROSPECT.4

ket with apricot

NAVIGATE

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10/5/17 4:54 PM

16 Local Knowledge CONNECT WITH US

Paging through 300 years for NOLA history.

17 Art + Culture

Prospect.4 international contemporary art exhibit.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

Between the bread, dining dish and say cheese.

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 69-71

(LEFT) ©DEBBY WONG/SHUTTERSTOCK; (CENTER, TOP) ©CHRIS GRANGER/BETH BIUNDO SWEETS; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©MARIA BERRIO AND PRAXIS GALLERY, NEW YORK

XX 34 SHOPPING

YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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8 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

John Fitzpatrick Concierge at the Bourbon Orleans Hotel Q: Where would you send guests for a NOLA history primer?

A: The Cabildo (p. 52) is an excellent historic building on its on—our first city hall— and there are great displays in there, like Napoleon’s death mask. Another place would be the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 52); they always have great exhibits.

Q: What about for a taste of history?

A: One of the city's most historic bars, in one way, is the Sazerac Bar (p. 54) and, in another, Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop (p. 53).

Everybody thinks it’s touristy, and it is, but it’s certainly a legitimate piece of New Orleans history. For traditional New Orleans cuisine and a place with amazing history, even if it were not a great restaurant, Brennan’s (p. 27).

Q: Boudin, Bourbon & Beer or the Tremé Creole Gumbo Fest?

A: I love gumbo; it’s quintessentially New Orleans. Not that boudin and beer aren’t, but when people think of the city, gumbo is one of the things that pops to mind .... whether you like potato salad in it or not.

(TOP) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (BOTTOM) ©LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS

Q: Name the one thing you have to have on your Thanksgiving table.

A: Turkey, though pumpkin pie comes in a close second.

Q: What are you most thankful for this year?

A: The hospitality New Orleans showed people fleeing the storms in Texas and Florida. And that the Bourbon Street project got started, though who knows when it’s going to end.

Napoleon's death mask

9

EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY NEWS TO TRAVEL BY

PIANO LOUNGE • PATIO • RESTAURANT

EAT, DRINK &

The Essential New Orleans With the kickoff of the city’s yearlong tricentennial celebration, the opening of the Prospect.4 contemporary art triennial and the return of chef Emeril Lagasse’s Boudin, Bourbon & Beer throwdown, New Orleans offers a veritable trifecta of fun this month. Which of big to-dos to do? Give them all a try.

90 MINUTES ON

Esplanade Avenue Bordering the French Quarter and Marigny neighborhoods and running from the river to Bayou St. John, Esplanade Avenue served as a major portage route during the early 1800s.

It later became known as Millionaire’s Row, due to the magnificent mansions that line the five-mile stretch, such as the Edgar Degas House, where the French impressionist once resided. The home is now open for tours, as is the Old U.S. Mint near the riverfront. Just past the Degas House you’ll find charming Alcee Fortier Park and a cluster of casual eateries.

Further down is St. Louis Cemetery No. 3, the final resting place of such New Orleans notables as early architect James Gallier Jr. and legendary Storyville photographer E.J. Bellocq.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

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WHERE CALENDAR NOVEMBER

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TOP STOPS

HOT

27 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

CIVIC THEATER Nov. 12: Grizzly Bear; Nov. 13: Primus; Nov. 14: The Shins; Nov. 18: Colin Quinn. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865

DATES

Battle of the Bands

NOVEMBER 24-25:

Bayou Classic

Thanksgiving in New Orleans means playing the ponies at the Fair Grounds Race Course (p. 48). But once the turkey settles, it’s all about football, with Southern and Grambling State universities hitting town for the 43rd annual Bayou Classic at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. The competition gets heated even before the teams take to the field with the fiercely competitive Greek Show and Battle of the Bands Nov. 24 at 6 pm. A parade follows the following morning, leaving the French Market at 9:30 am and ending at the Dome-adjacent Champions Square, where a free fan fest continues until kickoff at 4 pm. For tickets and a full lineup of events, visit mybayouclassic.com.

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

JAYZ > NOV. 9 Mr. Carter and family are often in town for fun.

This visit is all business. Catch him when pulls into the Smoothie King Center on his 4:44 Tour. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 1

Jay-Z caption here

BAYOU ROAD BALLOON FESTIVAL > NOV. 1012 Get up, up and away in nearby Chalmette during this inaugural event at Torres Memorial Park. Tethered balloon and carnival rides are featured, along with live music. 8200 W. Judge Perez Dr.; bayouroadballoonfestival.com 2

Gumbo Fest

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

3 THE KING AND I > NOV. 1419 The recent Broadway revival of Oscar and Hammerstein’s musical masterpiece racked up four Tony Awards. See why when the traveling

12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

production lands at the Saenger Theatre. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 HELL YES FEST > NOV. 1519 Need a good laugh? You’ll get a bellyful during this “bad-ass comedy festival,” which showcases standout stand-ups at venues citywide. hellyesfest.com 4

5 TREMÉ GUMBO FEST > NOV. 1819 Gumbo lovers get their fill during this annual affair at Armstrong Park, where more than a dozen vendors serve up a wide variety while 10 of the city’s top brass bands perform. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets; jazzandheritage.org/treme-gumbo

6 HIP HOP NUTCRACKER > NOV. 28 Tchaikovsky’s 1892 Christmas classic gets a modern-day makeover. Though the score remains the same, the storyline and energetic choreography are anything but. Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

JOY THEATER Nov. 1: Flying Lotus in 3D; Nov. 4: Iron & Wine; Nov. 18: Troyboi; Nov. 20: Tyler, the Creator; Nov. 24: Last Waltz New Orleans; Nov. 25: Partners-n-Crime and DJ Jubilee; Nov. 27: John McLaughlin and Jimmy Herring. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569 MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER Nov. 14: Tori Amos.

801 N. Rampart St., 800.745.3000 ORPHEUM THEATER Nov. 9: Old Crow Medicine Show; Nov. 11: GRiZ; Nov. 13: Alt-J. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870 SAENGER THEATRE Nov. 3: Jim Gaffigan; Nov. 5: “So You Think You Can Dance”; Nov. 9: The Illusionists Present Adam Trent; Nov. 12: ZZ Top; Nov. 30: Michael Carbonaro. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

(TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; (CENTER) ©DEBBY WONG/SHUTTERSTOCK; (BOTTOM) ©TODD COLEMAN/NOCVB

HOUSE OF BLUES Nov. 3: Issues; Nov. 10: Bustout Burlesque; Nov. 11: Cousin Stizz; Nov. 13: Penny and Sparrow; Nov. 17: Pierce Fulton and Nvdes; Nov. 19: Ani DiFranco; Nov. 30: Yacht Rock Review. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583

where now New Orleans

The city’s top attractions, entertainment, dining and more

Beth Biundo Sweets 14 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

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LOCAL FLAVOR

Get Baked

Clockwise from left: Bellegarde Bakery; a mirrorglazed Black Forest parfait and chocolate cheesecake from Gracious Bakery; Breads on Oak; ogling the pastries at Croissant D’Or

Cookies and cupcakes and breads—oh my!

BY LORIN GAUDIN Bread is nothing new to New Orleans, home of the po’ boy, the muffuletta and bread pudding. But in today’s low- or nocarb, diet-conscious world, where bread products are “bad,” it is notable that Bon Appétit recently named the city’s modern sandwich haven, Turkey and the Wolf, the “Best New Restaurant in America.” It may be about what’s on the sandwiches—fancied-up throwbacks like handmade bologna and chips—but the vehicle to carry the works is no slacker: thick slices of butter-rich white bread from Weiss Guys Bakery, the same craftsmen who make tons of buns for Company Burger.

(ALL IMAGES) ©CHERYL GERBER; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©CHRIS GRANGER/BETH BIUNDO SWEETS

While some restaurants have eliminated their bread service, others—such as Emeril’s, Coquette, Patois and Carrollton Market—continue to whip up an array of freshly made brioche, muffins and focaccia, or drop filled-to-thebrim baskets of locally sourced bakery breads on the table. Roll in places that make their own pizza dough, pita, naan, etc., along with a proliferation of independent bake shops, and it’s evident there has been a noticeable rise in artisan, brick-and-mortar and pop-up bakeries all over the city.

UPTOWN A couple years ago chef Donald Link bought La Boulangerie (p.

33), a long-popular Magazine Street bakeshop, and installed pastry chef Maggie Scales to reinvigorate the place with fresh takes on all of the breads and expand the pastry offerings. Most people come for a coffee and croissant at breakfast, stay for lunch of ham and Brie on baguette and leave with an armload of breads (blue cheese-walnut, olive fougasse) and sweets (apple turnovers, almond croissants).

In the Garden District is an outpost of chef Megan Forman’s Gracious Bakery (p. 31). Her pastries are clever (the “cruffin” is a croissant-muffin) and swoon-worthy, as are the chewy, crusty breads and bagels. Forman’s tart chocolate babka and flourless chocolate-

raspberry bites are musts.

Returning to pastry after an interior design stint, chef Beth Biundo recently opened Beth Biundo Sweets (3917 Baronne St., 504.899.8059). Off the beaten path, the shop is perfect for chilling out with a coffee and a wedding cake cupcake or an almond brittle cookie. Not far away chef Christina Balzebre operates Levee Baking Co. (3824 Dyrades St.), a Saturday pop-up inside a sharedspace/shotgun home.

A stroll up Oak Street will lead you to Breads on Oak (8640 Oak St., 504.324.8271), where baker Sean O’Mahony turns out a big selection of baked goods, including some gluten-free bits. Don’t miss the yeasty miche, olive parisienne or, with luck, the sourdough rye.

DOWNTOWN The Central Business District is restaurant rich, and there are a couple of top-notch hybrid bakery/cafés in the area. Willa Jean (p. 26) has a retail bakery in front that stashes crusty breads and flaky biscuits also used for sandwiches (nothing beats the boudin with collard greens and fried egg), killer chocolate-espresso cookies, Nutella sticky buns and banana bread. At Bittersweet Confections (p. 38) house-made honey-oat bread is the base for a particularly good avocado-tomato toast. The scones, bagels and sweets are special here, too.

Croissant D’Or (p. 28) has been holding down the French Quarter scratch pastry front for close to three decades. It likewise uses baguettes and flaky croissants for sandwiches; the paté with tiny, tart pickles is divine.

In the Marigny neighborhood is New Orleans Cake Café (p.

32), where chef Steve Himelfarb bakes his breads and pastries on site. The case is filled with stellar tarts, cupcakes and a few delightfully quirky creations, such as the tomato-and-egg-stuffed bagel.

15

Orleans

Further downriver you’ll find Bywater Bakery (p. 31), where hungry crowds pile in for chef Chaya Conrad’s stunning baked goods, including the farmer’s white bread. Peruse the cases for cake and be sure to get one of the giant slices; peanut butter-chocolate scratches the itch.

WORTH THE HUNT Louisiana’s expanded cottage food laws give leeway to bakers by easing commercial kitchen

From top: Bywater Bakery’s Chaya Conrad; grilled figs and goat cheese with cane syrup on toasted ciabatta from Willa Jean; a showcase sampler at New Orleans Cake Café & Bakery

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

requirements. The result is bakery entrepreneurs who test the market before taking a bigger plunge. Arrow Café (p. 27) has had some fine bakers pop up, including Ryan McDougall (@ryan.universe on Instagram) who makes gorgeous quick breads and coffeecakes. Port City Pantry (@portcitypantry on Instagram) also pops up at Arrow and at Solo Espresso (1301 Poland Ave., 504.408.1377) with some of the most ethereal savory and sweet baked goods in town.

Graison Gill’s Bellegarde Bakery (bellegardebakery.wordpress.com) brings to life Old World bread production and product. The bread’s aroma and deep, dark and properly dense crust is special for long fermentation, grain sourcing and Gill’s giant stone mill, among the nation’s largest. This is the kind of bread that often doesn’t make it home from the store. It’s worth seeking out Gill’s rye, ciabatta, country loaves and baguettes online or at local grocery/specialty shops.

In New Orleans carbs rule, bakeries are back and the dining populace is dough nuts.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

PAGING NOLA The city kicks off its 300th anniversary celebration (2018nola.com) with a bang Nov. 11 during the New Orleans Book Festival (nolabookfest. org) at City Park, replete with fireworks. Grab one of these great reads for the trip home.

ALL DAT NEW ORLEANS Author Michael Murphy knows his local lore and packs it all into the final installation of his popular Dat series. Funny and informative, Murphy is the consummate city guide, touching on everything from hot sauce to “the only brick-and-mortar vampire shop in America.”

(The Everyman Press) CITYSCAPES OF NEW ORLEANS Tulane University historical geographer Richard Campanella, who wrote the book on Bourbon Street— and eight more—moves beyond the French Quarter to explore the forces and factors that have helped shape the Crescent City’s various neighborhoods over the past three centuries. (LSU Press) NEW ORLEANS: THE FIRST 300 YEARS Music, architecture, race, sports, art, literature, politics, parades, culture, cuisine: This compilation of essays by in-the-know locals provides a sweeping overview of the city, from its founding to its post-Katrina comeback. Part history book, part love letter, 100 percent New Orleans. (Pelican Press) NEW ORLEANS & THE WORLD This scholarly anthology serves as the tricentennial’s official publication.

But don’t expect some dull, dry read; this is New Orleans, after all, and the book’s contributors— including former Time magazine editor Walter Isaacson and “Queen of Creole Cuisine” Leah Chase—are some of the city’s greatest talents.

(Louisiana Endowment for the Humanities)

(LEFT, TOP AND BOTTOM) ©CHERYL GERBER; (LEFT, CENTER) ©RUSH JAGOE/WILLA JEAN

WHERE NOW New

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) ©GENEVIEVE GAIGNARD AND SHULAMIT NAZARIAN, LOS ANGELES; ©LOUIS ARMSTRONG HOUSE MUSEUM, QUEENS, NEW YORK; ©BARKLEY L. HENDRICKS AND JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK; ©NAAMA TSABAR, ART BASEL, PAUL KASMIN GALLERY; SPINELLO PROJECTS; ©KATHERINE BRADFORD, EDWARD THORPE GALLERY, NEW YORK; CANADA GALLERY, NEW YORK

Louis Armstrong

Caption 7 pt, Myriad Pro SemiGenevieve Gaignard

ART+CULTURE

Paint the Town The Big Easy becomes the Big Easel this month with the opening of Prospect.4: The Lotus in Spite of the Swamp.

The fourth iteration of the largest periodic international contemporary art exhibition in the U.S. runs from Nov. 18 to Feb. 25, spotlighting 73 artists from more than 25 countries working in a wide range of media at 17 different venues. Aligning with New Orleans’ tricentennial celebration, P.4 is reflective of the city’s varied cultural influences and features 38 commissioned original works, in addition to 60-plus satellite exhibit spaces.

While past Prospects have been scattered throughout the city, P.4 is more linear, with special emphasis on the Mississippi riverfront. Crescent Park features sculpture

by Atlanta’s Radcliffe Bailey and others, a video by Miami filmmaker Jillian Mayer and a mural by Runo Lagomarsino, who was recently featured in the Venice Biennale.

Manhattan-based artist Derrick Adams created a multimedia installation for the Riverfront streetcar; take it to the end of the line and you’ll find another by Nigerianborn abstract artist Odili Donald Odita at the Algiers ferry landing. Take the ferry across the river and you’ll discover a new work by Kara Walker (of “Sugar Sphinx” fame) in collaboration with jazz pianist Jason Moran, along with a

river-themed installation by fellow New Yorker Mark Dion.

Opening weekend is packed with talks, performances, tours and parties, with the majority of artists in attendance.

Highlights include collages created by Louis Armstrong at New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint (p. 53), Londonbased filmmaker John Akomfrah’s featurelength documentary on jazz pioneer Buddy Bolden at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art (p. 53), the late Barkley L. Hendricks’ post-modern portraits of people of color at the New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 53) and a musical “happening” at the Music Box Village (p. 54).

For a complete lineup of artists, venues and related events, visit prospectneworleans.org.

Barkley L. Hendricks

Naama Tsabar

Myriad Pro Semi-bold Semi-extended Caption.

Katherine Bradford 17

WHERE NOW New

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed.

Killer PoBoys FOOD+DRINK

Sandwich One In It may seem too obvious, but old-school, sliced-bread sandwiches are having a serious moment, especially if there’s an interesting twist or unique filling. Check out what’s between the “toast bread” (as locals say) and more than worth the carbs.

Killer PoBoys’ (p. 29) two locations (“Big Killer” on Dauphine and “Lil Killer” inside the Erin Rose bar on Conti) mean two menus. At “Big” there’s the Roasted Cauliflower Sandwich with romesco sauce, avocado, radish and crispy kale on whole grain bread. At “Lil” there’s a Jameson Grilled Cheese with aged English cheddar and Jameson Irish whiskey on whole grain.

Within walking distance of the New Orleans Museum of Art, petite 1000 Figs (p. 32) is well known for its falafel, fries and scorched Brussels sprouts. But the sleeper is a cozy chicken salad sandwich on fat slices from a Leo’s Bread loaf.

Aglio (p. 24), a South Market neighborhood deli with house-cured meats, condiments and fresh veg, has a fine list of sandwiches, among which is the Uncle B.B. Sammy—a hot ham and cheese with garlic gremolata, lettuce and tomato on loaf slices of

the shop’s signature black brioche.

The buttery white bread at Turkey and the Wolf (p. 31) forms the foundation for Leighann’s Fried Bologna. But the current star is a triple-decker Collard Green Melt: slow-cooked collards, Swiss cheese, pickled cherry, pepper dressing and coleslaw on rye.

In addition to its gorgeous new décor, The Country Club (p.

31) features a lovely menu from chef Chris Barbato that includes a ramped-up BLT called the BEAT—bacon, sunny side up egg, avocado and tomato on brioche pan bread.

Oak Street’s specialty grocery store, Simone’s Market (p. 38), features Louisiana-made, -grown and -raised products, a great prepared-food case and an easy menu of salads and sandwiches.

Get the Pimento Grilled Cheese with bacon jam and house pickles on sourdough. —Lorin Gaudin

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

RIMON Chef Dan Esses (of Three Muses fame) has taken over the kitchen at Tulane University’s Hillel House.

This is a great place to grab a kosher meal while taking in the area. Breakfast is simple and straightforward with tacos and avocado toast, but lunch and dinner get Esses’ next-level treatment with double-fried Korean Chicken

Empanola

Wings, killer falafel, shawarma plates and fresh-cut fries. Add Bubbie’s Gravy; just do it. 912 Broadway, 504.232.0758 EMPANOLA At a stall in the St. Roch Market are empanadas—hand pies of flaky, toasty dough with a choice of 10 fillings. Blending the proprietors’ cultures (Argentine and Chilean) with a New Orleans vibe, the inventive menu includes fillings of ham and cheese, ratatouille, even gumbo. Get one for a sturdy snack or two for a meal. Baked to order means time to peruse the rest of glam food hall. Grab a dulce de leche-filled shortbread cookie (alfajores) to nibble on. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813 —LG

LAST BITE There’s something particularly lovely about closing out a meal with a cheese plate, either as a precursor to or in lieu of dessert. Slicing into creamy, earthy, salty, soft and aromatic cheeses, nipped with bits of fresh fruit, nuts, mustards, jams or honey, is divine. Many restaurants offer cheese plates or boards, and most source from the gurus at St. James Cheese Company (p. 25), where there’s always a robust and interesting selection of cheeses, condiments, bread and crackers. Not sure what’s what?

Order a three-cheese board with guidance from friendly, lowkey cheesemongers who know their way around a wheel, add on a sparkling water, glass of wine or beer and settle in. —LG

(LEFT) ©KYLIE MCDONALD/KILLER POBOYS; (RIGHT) ©EMPANOLA; (BOTTOM) ©RUSH JAGOE/ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY

THE FLYING PIG At this new restaurant, owned by a local DJ and her chef husband, gently reworked casual New Orleans food dominates the menu. Best options: spicy deviled eggs, Smothered Pork Chop with sautéed green beans and garlic mashed potatoes and the Caribbean Fried Chicken with collard greens, cornbread and pimento mac ’n’ cheese. At brunch there are fights over the chicken and waffles. 4920 Prytania St., 504.644.2982

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GIFT GUIDE

Holiday Hits Searching for a standout stocking stuffer, that special something for that special someone? Add a bit of Crescent City charm to your gift-giving this season.

PORTER LYONS The Zodiac Collection- Give your loved ones the gift of the stars. Solid 14K Gold & Kimberly Certified (Conflict Free) diamonds float creating each Zodiac constellation, a unique and personal present this holiday season. Available in yellow, white and rose gold necklace and earrings. (Pictured: Capricorn). Find us at our flagship store at 631 Toulouse St., French Quarter; www.porterlyons.com.

ADORN & CONQUER Natural Druzy Stone with nature pressed silver, by local artist Maria Fomich. Adorn & Conquer showcases handmade jewelry and gifts from local and national artists. There’s something unique for everyone, ranging from $10-$400. Jewelry Artists are working in house, stop by and say hello!

Adorn & Conquer, 2727 Prytania St., The Rink, Suite 6, New Orleans, LA 70130 www.adornandconquer.com

QUEORK This women’s wallet is made using REAL CORK! The outer fabric is sealed with silicone making it durable like leather, water resistant and easy to clean with a damp cloth. $65 838 Chartres Street, 504-481-4910, www.queork.com

BIJOUNOLA New Designs from some of Poland’s most prestigious artists, starting at $169.00.

635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001 www.bijounola.com.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

BEATRIXBELL HANDCRAFTED JEWELRY Beatrixbell Handcrafted Jewelry & Gift is a design studio located on the banks of the Mississippi River in historic Algiers Point, only blocks from the ferry landing. Featuring their namesake jewelry line as well as local art, Louisiana made gifts, and other curated treasures. Modern and fresh, these geometric earrings are created with mixed metals, luscious patinas and semi precious stones. 14 karat gold dipped ear wires. 337 Morgan Street, Suite A 504-507-0955, beatrixbell.com

VINTAGE CHANEL BRACELET Substantial gilt oval link with toggle clasp bracelet hung with seven large iconic Chanel charms. Circa 1986. Made in France. Vintage 329, 329 Royal Street NOLA, 504.525.2262

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION Add warmth to your home with these exclusive nightlights from Heather Elizabeth, featuring images from The Historic New Orleans Collection’s holdings. $28 each. Shipping available.

533 Royal St. Open Tue–Sat, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Sun, 10:30 am–4:30 pm.

(504) 598-7147, www.hnoc.org/shop

BEVOLO GAS AND ELECTRIC LIGHTS The Governor Pool House Lantern from Bevolo, can be used to fill the night with a soft candlelight glow, display seasonal items, or your favorite collections. Available in antique copper or stainless steel. 304/316/318 Royal St. French Quarter, Bevolo.com

NOLA TIL YA DIE A tried-and-true brand with a fantastic selection of apparel and accessories. There’s something for everyone online or at their fun Mid City shop. Be sure to check out the Til Ya Die® collections too. Custom designs and orders welcome. NOLA Til Ya Die, 3536 Toulouse St, 504.281.4928, nolatilyadie.com

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Holiday Hits

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

SHOE BE DO New Orleans greatest addiction importing shoes from all over the world. ‘Curing the world of ugly shoes, one foot at a time’.

Shoe Be Do 324 Chartres Street.

504.523.7463 www.ShoeBeDoUSA.com.

VINTAGE 329 Specializing in vintage barware like these Culver Prado design with 22kt gold overlay “low ball” or “rocks” glasses. 329 Royal Street, (504) 525-2262

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION Remember your time in New Orleans year after year with a keepsake ornament. These hand-blown glass ornaments come in multiple designs, each capturing a different aspect of the city’s colorful culture. Item shown is $42. Shipping available.

533 Royal St. Open Tue–Sat, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Sun, 10:30 am–4:30 pm. (504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop

RODRIGUE STUDIOS Rodrigue Jewelry Collection Each stunning piece was originally designed by artist George Rodrigue, and meticulously handcrafted by Douglas Magnus of Santa Fe, NM. Available only through Rodrigue Studio. Starting at $475. Rodrigue Studio, 730 Royal Street, 504.581.4244, georgerodrigue.com

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RALPH BRENNAN RESTAURANT GROUP Feed your favorite foodie this holiday season with these coveted cookbooks! Grab your autographed copies of the award-winning Ralph Brennan’s New Orleans Seafood Cookbook, along with The Original Brennan’s RALPH BRENNAN RESTAURANT GROUP Cookbook online at www.neworleans-food.

Feed your favorite foodie this holiday season com/shop with these coveted cookbooks! Grab your autographed copies of the award-winning Ralph Brennan’s New Orleans Seafood Cookbook, along with The Original Brennan’s Cookbook online at www.neworleans-food. com/shop

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

GALLERY TWO Design your own rhythm, create a signature look, collect at your own pace with stacking rings by Ann Marie Cianciolo. Two Women.

Two Artists. Two Expressions. Gallery Two. 831 Royal St., 504-513-8312, gallerytwonola.com Open late on weekends.

FLEUR D’ORLEANS The Designers at Fleur d’ Orleans have created hundreds of jewelry and gift designs inspired by the architectural treasures of New Orleans. At the heart of the French Quarter the Cabildo (1795) was the seat of government during the colonial period. These unique earrings, inspired by a wrought iron balustrade on the Cabildo, celebrate New Orleans’ design heritage and history. 14KT gold plated earrings $50. Visit Fleur d’Orleans in the Quarter or on Magazine Street: 818 Chartres / 3701a Magazine 504.899.5585 / 504.475.5254

ART & EYES Art & Eyes carries over 1500 handmade frames, optical and suns, starting from $75. In addition, some of the finest accessory artisans are featured here. Pictured Thierry Lasry, handmade in France.

3708 Magazine Street, (504)891-4494, www.Artandeyesnola.com

COMMANDER’S PALACE Ella Brennan, “Miss Ella,” changed the way America eats. At 18 years old, she went to work at her brother’s bar on Bourbon Street.

The New Orleans dining scene had no idea what was about to hit it. Turns out it was one of America’s greatest business coaches, whose impact on the restaurant industry and Creole cuisine is evident across the nation today. Available at CommandersPalace. com; Amazon.com, in local book stores, or pick one up at Commander’s Palace, 1403 Washington Ave.

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the guide Dining November

Emeril City

Counter Culture

Want to kick your visit way up a notch? November offers double the opportunity with the Emeril Lagasse Foundation’s annual Boudin, Bourbon & Beer and Carnivale du Vin fundraisers. The boots-and-blue jeans Boudin blowout packs Champions Square Nov. 3, with more than 60 top chefs from around the nation serving up creative takes on Louisiana’s signature sausage. Buffalo Trace and local brewers help keep the party going, while Nathaniel Rateliff & the Night Sweats and others perform. The black-tie Carnivale, a multicourse gala featuring Lagasse’s chefs du cuisines, takes place Nov. 4 at the Hyatt Regency and includes a live wine auction. boudinbourbonandbeer.com; carnivaleduvin.com

Chef Isaac Toups takes diners off-menu and on a delicious journey with his new monthly Counter Club at Toups’ South (p.

26). The five-course, $50 themed dinners center on the open kitchen bar, where Toups entertains an intimate crowd while working his culinary magic. Sign up for his Nov. 16 boucherie feast.

AGLIO Italian. This ramped-up neighborhood deli

pays homage to the chefs’ Louisiana and Sicilian heritages with family favorites like fig cookies, red gravy and meatballs taken to the next level. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.aglionola.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.827.1090. Map 3, B4 THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BORGNE Seafood. At this seafood-centric John

Besh restaurant (helmed by mega-talented chef Brian Landry), fantastic apps (such as duck-andjalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with easy-going sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. $$ L, D (daily). www.borgnerestaurant. com. 601 Loyola Ave. (in the Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504.613.3860. Map 3, C3 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Biderman’s

award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Hand-ground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; house-made mayo and pickles; freshbaked buns. Add a side of hand-cut, twice-cooked fries...and dig in. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St.,

504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com.

535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot is counted among local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-of-the-norm antipasta (octopus carpaccio), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3

(LEFT) ©BOUDIN, BOURBON & BEER; (RIGHT) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY

Central Business/ Warehouse District

DINING

EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship

sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 HERBSAINT French. James Beard Award-winning

chef Donald Link’s entrées range from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com.

701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5

JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chefs (and old friends) John Besh and Aarón Sánchez teamed to create this hip eatery, which puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant. com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery, snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long

after the meal. B (M-F); L, D (daily); Sa-Su, brunch. www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 NEW ORLEANS SOCIAL HOUSE Contemporary.

Noshing on sharable small plates—lobster tacos, bison sliders, salmon tartines—while sipping craft cocktails and wine, is the idea here. Live music nightly. $$ D (nightly). www.noshneworleans.com.

752 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.1103. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com.

800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap, live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT AUGUST French. In New Orleans,

chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a vision. The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style with Gulf Coast ingredients. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This offshoot of New York’s

Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. $$ D (nightly). www.seaworthynola.com.

630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St.

James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-theline delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. $ L (M-Su), D (M-Sa). www.stjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................24

Central City..................................................................................................26 French Quarter........................................................................................26 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 30 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................31 Mid-City..........................................................................................................32 Uptown..........................................................................................................32

WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and lamb pot pie. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue

and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L, D (W-Su). www.centralcitybbq.com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS’ SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the Gulf shrimp and 26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

DINING

country ham with butterbeans and sweet potatoes. $$$ D (W-Su); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola. com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 ARROW CAFÉ Coffee. This shop merges coffee

service with vintage housewares and locally made gift tems. Grab an excellently pulled espresso and a savory scone, along with a set of gold-flocked highball glasses. $ B, L (daily). 628 N. Rampart St., 504.410.5647. Map 3, G3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell

with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is back

on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Jake Shapiro serves up long-popular classics, such as broiled black drum with rosemary-mustard crust and ginger-apple glaze. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www.broussards.com.

819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks,

and delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5

CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restau-

rant provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as jerk chicken and plantain dumplings. $$ L (F), D (nightly); brunch, Sa-Su. www.caneandtablenola. com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The

French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring micro-

BY MEAL. BY DRINK. BYWATER. The time-honored tradition of New Orleans neighborhood dining is alive and well at The Country Club. Think chef-driven cuisine meets casual elegance, and you begin to understand why this hidden gem of the Bywater is a local favorite for great meals, great company and for 40 years – an even greater time.

504.945.0742 | 634 Louisa St. TheCountryClubNewOrleans.com Must Be 21 or Older

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

brews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the baby back ribs, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and fresh grilled redfish with soft-shell crab. Live jazz nightly (no cover). $$ L, D (daily). www.crescentcitybrewhouse. com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5 CROISSANT D’OR PATISSERIE Bakery. Abandon

all hope of counting calories, ye who enter here.

This venerable pastry shop produces a stunning array of buttery croissants, fresh fruit danishes and any number of dreamy creations devised from storehouses of chocolate, cream and magic. $ B, L (W-M). 617 Ursuline Ave., 504.524.4663. Map 3, H4 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with faro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.curionola. com. 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue rib eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 FAUBOURG BISTRO Eclectic. Tucked into the 700

Club bar, Faubourg rocks a menu of hearty pub fare: wedge salads; wings topped with peanut sauce, bacon and jelly; red beans-and-rice burgers; mac-and-cheese skillets. Open until 2 am; delivery until midnight. $ L, D (daily). www.faubourgbistro. com. 700 Burgundy St., 504.439.5842. Map 3, G3 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has

taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Enjoy an afternoon drink in our courtyard.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

DINING

introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS Contemporary. This tiny

hole-in-the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys.com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

Locally Inspired, Nationally Recognized Palace Cafe

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Bourbon House

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro recently received a full makeover to mark its 25th anniversary. The new small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings with peanut sauce and smoked crab cheesecake boulettes. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils. com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse

OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse

PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

Tableau

www.FrenchQuarter-Dining.com

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4

504.274.1958

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

(nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com.

309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.revolutionnola.com.

777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south

of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B, L, D (daily). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ATCHAFALAYA Creole. Look for the giant cast-iron

skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and menu standouts such as free-form crab ravioli and pan-seared Gulf fish with twice-cooked fingerlings and Vidalia onion beurre blanc. $$$ D (nightly); brunch (Th-M). www.atchafalayarestaurant.com.

901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4 COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

DINING

with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 DISTRICT Coffee. Donuts. Sliders. Brew. That’s

the way District bills itself, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this kicked-up coffee shop: craft-style donuts (try the Vietnamese coffee variety), savory sliders and nitro-brewed coffee on tap. $ Open daily. www.donutsandsliders.com. 2209 Magazine St., 504.570.6945. Map 1, D4 GRACIOUS BAKERY Bakery. Gorgeous baked

goods line the cases at this popular bakery. Ease your way into the day with twice-baked French toast with berry compote. For lunch, make it the house-cured salmon with herbed goat cheese, pickled beets and spinach on rye. $ B, L (daily). www.graciousbakery.com. 2854 St. Charles Ave., 504.301.3709. Map 1, D3; 1000 Jefferson Davis Hwy., 504.301.3709. Map1, D3 POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-

you-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes (edamame, fish roe, etc.). $ L, D (daily) www.eatpokeloa.com. 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4 ROOT/SQUARE ROOT Contemporary. Two hip

restaurants in one. Upstairs the focus is on chef Phillip Lopez’s contemporary twists on culinary standards and creative charcuterie. Downstairs centers around 16 seats flanking an open kitchen and Lopez’s multi-course tasting menu (online reservations only). $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.squarerootnola. com. 1800 Magazine St., 504.309.7800. Map 1, D4 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti. St., 504.708.4366. Map 3, F4 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and hot mustard, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L, D (W-Su). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/

bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 BYWATER BAKERY Bakery. Along with pastries and

cakes, the menu at this sweet neighborhood spot offers straightforward sandwiches, both closed and open-faced, soups, Mason jar salads and “Breakfast Go-Cups.” $ B, L (daily). www.bywaterbakery. com. 3624 Dauphine St., 504.336.3336. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crawfish beignets, bone marrow tartine), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Sa-Su (brunch). w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

THE GUIDE

www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 MARIZA Italian. Chef/owner Ian Schnoebelen’s

cozy-chic Italian-inspired space in the trendy Rice Mill Lofts. Try the goat-ricotta bruschetta, yellowfin tuna carpaccio or black linguini with shrimp and crab. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.marizaneworleans.com.

2900 Chartres St., 504.598.5700. Map 1, E3 NEW ORLEANS CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY Dessert.

Steven “the Cake Man” Himelfarb offers breakfast and lunch at his charming Bywater café, but it’s cake that’s the beloved baker’s calling card. Pecan praline, bananas Foster with banana icing, classic red velvet—yummy. $$ B, L (W-M). www.nolacakes. com. 2440 Chartres St., 504.943.0010. Map 3, K6 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); brunch (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

historic marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com.

2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3 THREE MUSES Eclectic. This Frenchmen Street

hot spot offers a clubby vibe, live music, smart cocktails and amazing eats. Raves are drawn for the menu’s variety and chef Daniel Esses’ small plate-portioned lamb sliders, feta fries and braised pork belly atop a crisp scallion pancake. $ D (WM). www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 BROWN BUTTER SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR Southern. This tucked-away gem serves up

creative eats with Bible Belt roots. Evidence: Pimento cheese with apple-pecan preserves and baby arugula on toasted seven-grain bread and braised short ribs with grits and boiled peanut salad. $$ L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa); Sa-Su brunch. www. brownbutterrestaurant.com. 231 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.609.3871. Map 1, D2 PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN Louisiana. The menu

here is long but simple: po’ boys and more po’ boys. They come as “large” (translation: gargantuan) or “small” (large). Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, ham, turkey, catfish, meatballs and, of course, alligator sausage— and that’s just the top of the list. $ L, D (W-M). www.parkwaypoorboys.com. 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2

RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran

restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 1000 FIGS Mediterranean. This popular Mid-City

spot is the brick-and-mortar space of the team behind the equally popular Fat Falafel food truck.

Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj and lamb. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.1000figs.com. 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown APOLLINE Louisiana. In this renovated shotgun

house, contemporary twists on French/Creole cuisine make diners feel right at home. Char-broiled oysters with bacon marmalade, cold-smoked pork chops, seared scallops with maque choux and pork plank; at brunch try the confit duck with potato hash, duck cracklin and Hollandaise. $$$ Brunch, D (Tu-Su). www.apollinerestaurant.com. 4729 Magazine St., 504.894.8881. Map 1, D4 AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great off-the-

beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathaniel Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’ boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

BRIGTSEN’S Creole. Secluded in the Riverbend

neighborhood, Brigtsen’s has a lower profile than many other first-rank local restaurants. A protegé of Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.brigtsens.com. 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet.

No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough— flash-fried oysters with bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.carrolltonmarket. com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 3, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the salmon poke tacos before moving on to the tuna-and-crab picatta or a double-stacked burger

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017 NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

with Sazerac-spiked barbecue sauce. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays

homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine.

Think oyster toast, alligator chorizo-stuffed squash blossoms and gumbo with crab fat rice. Killer cocktail program. $$ D (M-Sa); brunch (F-M). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery

doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. $ B, L (MSa). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate French

bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE American. A New Orleans

landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food.

Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS Louisiana. Chef Aaron Burgau has earned

all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a young man “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Su brunch. www.patoisnola.com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare with

contemporary flare. Top picks include the pakoda choti, roti sathi and any of the crispy dosa on the brunch menu. $$ D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.saffronnola.com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Live Jazz • Real Food • Serious Beer 527 Decatur St. • 504.522.0571 www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com

Live Jazz Nightly (no cover)

Israel at this modern Mediterranean eatery, named “Best New Restaurant” in the nation by the James Beard Foundation in 2016. Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slowcooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant.com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 TAL’S HUMMUS Mediterranean. Soft, spongy pita

fresh from the oven is a great vehicle for this Israeli restaurant’s creamy hummus, while the tendercrunchy falafel is extra delicious dragged through silky sesame tahini and beef kabobs are cooled by yogurt sauce. The baklava is sticky, nutty, decadence. $ L, D (daily). www.ordertalsonline.com.

4800 Magazine St., 504.267.7357. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 33

THE GUIDE

Shopping

‘Tis the Seasoned

Candy Land

Visitors with a taste for retro cookware should check out the Southern Food and Beverage Museum (p. 53), where, among the various displays, they’ll spot a small section devoted to the local shop Seasoned (3824 Dryades St., 860.604.4650). As its name suggests, the tiny, culinary-minded boutique is packed with cool kitchen collectibles sourced from area estate sales. “Experienced” pots and pans, cookbooks and other tools of the trade fill the front room, while a second is devoted to serving pieces and vintage barware. Tucked away off St. Charles Avenue, the homey space is shared with Levee Baking Co. (see p. 15) and the Mosquito Supper Club (mosquitosupperclub.com).

Sweet tooth? Satisfy it at Kilwins (600 Decatur St., 504.345.2462). Dating to 1946, the Michigan-based confectioner now has more than 100 branches nationwide and recently opened its first Louisiana location in Jax Brewery. Buttery toffee, sea-salt caramels, truffles, brittles, fudge, caramel-coated apples, cream-filled chocolates—yes, please!

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS William Faulkner lived

at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, along with a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings.

Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and

accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DIRTY COAST Just when you thought

There’s a lot more going on this month .

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

New Orleans couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing from such

sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline.com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4 3310Magazine St., 504.269.4005. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 KIT AND ACEThis lululemon offshoot is known for

its line of “technical cashmere” clothing. Geared to both sexes, the chic shop’s luxe street wear is both versatile and machine-washable. www.kitandace. com. 3913 Magazine St., 844.548.6223. Map 1, D4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or

cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie.com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2

TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintage-inspired designs with a modern sensibility. Women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie and accessories are offered. www.trashydiva. com. 829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 TUXEDOS TO GEAUXWhy rent a tux when you can

own one? This formal wear shop dresses men to the nines—complete with shirt, tie and cummerbund—for under $200. www.tuxedostogeaux.com.

3400 16th St., Metairie, 504.455.5393. Map 1, C2

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS

THE PRALINE, that quintessential Crescent City souvenir, was created in 18th-century France as a digestive aide and named for French diplomat Cesar du Plassis-Preslin.

34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

(LEFT) ©SEASONED; (CENTER) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (RIGHT) ©KILWINS

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www. louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 34

Clothing........................................................................................................ 34 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 34 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 38 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 38 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 38 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 39 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 39 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 40 Shoes............................................................................................................... 40 Special Services...................................................................................... 40

for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away

LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 SANTA’S QUARTERS Need a little Christmas right

this very minute? Load up the sleigh at this holidaythemed shop—the South’s largest—selling nativity sets, specialty lights and locally crafted ornaments year-round. www.santasquartersno.com. 1027 Decatur St., 504.581.5820. Map 3, H5 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

WHITE ELEPHANT SALE & AUCTION

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n auction, yard sale, and raffle — something for everyone! Some of the best French Quarter businesses, restaurants, hotels, art galleries and shops donate gift certificates and auction items for this event. Baskets of Cheer containing wine and spirits are raffled off throughout the day. Yard sale items include jewelry, books, women’s & men’s clothing, and assorted plants.

Since 1946, Patio Planters of the Vieux Carré has organized and produced Caroling in Jackson Square. The White Elephant Sale & Auction is one of the primary fund-raising activities in support of this event.

For more information, to become a member, donate an auction item or to make a 501(c)3 donation, please visit www.patioplanters.net.

Saturday, November 11 10 am — 4 pm Auction at noon Homer Plessy Schoolyard (Royal & St. Philip St.) Free & Open to the public Credit Cards accepted for Auction Purchases

Put the power of Where® in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

THE GUIDE

cards and travel diaries. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS Crescent City

confectioner Cheryl Scripter has built a loyal following with her incredible truffle collections. Her Warehouse District location also offers fresh morning pastries, delicious cakes, cookies, dipped fruits and toffees. www.bittersweetconfections.com. 725 Magazine St., 504.523.2626. Map 3, C6 KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5

FOR INFANTS, TODDLERS AND CHILDREN

nola kids

ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4

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books, toys, gifts & apparel

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St. a r tre s 333 Ch 6.134 0 6 5 0 4.5 aily Open d

www.facebook.com/nolakids

Gourmet Food & Spirits

SIMONE’S MARKETA small, independent grocery

devoted to thoughtfully selected local and regional products. Prepared foods are also available, along with daily deli specials. www.simonesmarket.com.

8201 Oak St., 504.273.7706. Map 3, C3

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324 Chartres St.

VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ShoeBeDoUSA.com 504-523-7463

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4

Hats & Accessories FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

10:30am-6pm 7 days a week

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4

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Health & Beauty/Spas AVERY FINE PERFUMERY This artisanal fragrance

”smell gallery” is one of only 18 in the world and 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

ADVERTISEMENT

SHOPPING

the Italian-based InterTrade Europe group’s sole stand-alone, stateside location. Hard-to-find niche brands such as Blood Concept and Boadicea are featured. www.averyfineperfumeries.com. 527 St. Joseph St., 504.522.7102. Map 3, B6 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222 Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET

FREE LIFETIME ALTERATIONS • YEAR ROUND SERVICE

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7; 140 Carondelet St. Map 3, D3

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4

HOME OF THE 169 TUXEDO SET! $

Why Rent? OWN IT!

At Tuxedos To Geaux, we don’t believe in rentals.

Why hassle with returning your tuxedo the morning after?

Free ery Delivur to yo hotel room

(504) 455-5393 • 3400 16TH STREET, METAIRIE, LA 70002 • NEXT TO IMPASTATO’S RESTAURANT

NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com.

519 Wilkinson St., 504.516.2601. Map 3, G4; 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 39

THE GUIDE

Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4

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Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

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KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-

nered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4

Papier Plume

Malls/Major Retailers

842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach and Michael Kors. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2

THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, ululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace. com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Gizmos • Gadgets • Gifts of Wood • Clocks • Puzzles • Office

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7

Toys • Boxes • Games •

THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

Shoes GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop

for professionally fit arch supports designed for everything from sneakers to high heels. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5

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JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” NO-WM_140400_IdeaFactory.indd 1 among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4

3/10/14 11:24:10 AM

SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

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Special Services

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PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

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ADVERTISEMENT

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THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques

To the Manor Born

Two to See

Longing for long ago? Step into M.S. Rau Antiques (p. 44) and set off on a grand tour of Victorian-era England with Aristocracy: Luxury and Leisure in Britain. The free exhibition examines the evolution of entertainment and recreation in affluent 19th-century England. From fine furnishings—such as a porcelain dinner service owned by the Duke of Hamilton, Baccarat crystal centerpieces and candlesticks by renowned silversmith Paul Storr—to portraits of nobility on the hunt and a rare German Schuetzen sporting rifle, the exhibit offers insight into upper-crust culture of the day. Need a nécessaire de voyage (an ornate vanity set designed for traveling)? You’ll find it here.

Bead art fans should visit Gallery 2 (p. 42), where, in addition to Betsy Youngquist’s beaded surrealist sculptures, they’ll find an intricately beaded Mardi Gras Indian suit hand-sewn by Big Chief Demond Melacon.

The stunning work depicts Bras-Coupé, an enslaved African prince who was brought to New Orleans in the early 1800s.

Central Business/ Warehouse District ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6

(LEFT) ©M.S. RAU ANTIQUES; (RIGHT) ©GALLERY 2

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent

exhibition space for African-American artists,

featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www.stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

There’s a lot more going on this month Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery. com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Woodrow Nash, Steve Taylor, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com.

241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, lime-

stone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com.

623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS

The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo.

Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo.com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4

M.S. RAU, dating to 1912, ranks as one of New Orleans’ oldest antiques stores and, at 25,000 square feet, one of the largest in the United States. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 41

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 41

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 41 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................44 Collectives.....................................................................................................46 Other Locations.......................................................................................46

GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art

LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

623 royAL street

French quArter

new orLeAns

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

THE GUIDE

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. Originals, giclées and prints are offered. www.artgallerynola.com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

where you are. ®

(and where you’re going.)

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec.

Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Step-by-step directions from where you are to where you want to go. wheretraveler.com Now on your iPhone.

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists.

44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

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“Inversion” Fabric Appliqué & Embroidery

Antieau Gallery • New Orleans THE WORK OF CHRIS ROBERTS-ANTIEAU

927 ROYAL ST, NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 • (504) 304-0849 • antieaugallery.com

OPEN DAILY 10AM - 8PM

THE GUIDE

www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. www.galleryosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works by dozens of regional artists.

Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. 2028 Magazine St., 504.523.7945. Map 1, D4

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net.

3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKETThis after-dark art

mart takes place in a converted auto body shop (aka the Art Garage). From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares, Th-Sa, 8 pm-1 am. www. frenchmenartmarket.com. 2231 St. Claude Ave., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5 ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in a renovated

art deco theater, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., Algiers, 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8 46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

617 Bienville Street | New Orleans michalopoulos.com

THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Finding Her Voice

Goal Oriented

That voice wafting through the hotel lobby sound familiar? It should. Since her breakout appearance on season three of “The Voice,” singer/songwriter Amanda Ducorbie has been sounding off all over town. From Tipitina’s to the Orpheum Theater, the smokyvoiced Ducorbie, whose influences range from Billie Holiday to Rihanna, has garnered a strong following among locals and visitors alike. And they don’t have to travel far to hear her. Along with pop-up performances at hip hot spots like the Drifter and Troubadour hotels, Ducorbie appears weekly at the Saint (Wed., 8-11 pm), NOPSI (Sat., 4:30-7:30 pm) and Roosevelt (Fri. and Sat., 8-11 pm) hotels.

Sports fans score big this month with the New Orleans Pelicans playing eight home games at the Smoothie King Center (p. 48), beginning and ending with the Minnesota Timberwolves (Nov. 1 and 29), while the Saints take on Tampa Bay (Nov. 5) and the Washington Redskins (Nov. 19) at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome (p. 47).

Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre green space is so known as Congo Square. I was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

(LEFT) ©THE EHRHARDT GROUP; (RIGHT) ©MICHAEL C. HEBERT

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to

insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4 AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals,

the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95

ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St. Charles streetcar stop 36.

Open Tu-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su, 10 am-5 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org.

6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4

There’s a lot more going on this month .

Visit us online:

FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest

public market dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Pl., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5

wheretraveler.com

CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities

of the dead” offer insight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number of her works there.

Many are located in high-crime areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night.

CHAMPIONS SQUAREThis open-air venue, adja-

cent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts 45,000 sq. ft. and state-of-the-art technology. The space plays host to free fan fests during New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year. www.champions-square.com.

1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2 CINEBARRE CANAL PLACE 9 This state-of-the-art

movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining from its in-house Gusto Café and Bar. www.thetheatres.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush

canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2

HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleans-themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered

THANKSGIVING DAY in the Crescent City means a pilgrimage to the New Orleans Fair Grounds Race Course, which draws thousands for its annual season opener. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 47

THE GUIDE

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS FAIR GROUNDS RACE COURSE In

operation since 1872, this ranks as the nation’s third-oldest Thoroughbred race course.

The site serves as home base for the annual New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. www. fairgroundsracecourse.com. 1751 Gentilly Blvd., 504.944.5515. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2

48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to 3 hours; rates vary. www. celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden

District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$22. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs.

Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 69-71.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................47 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................48 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 52 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 53 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 54

Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information:

www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs.

Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 pm and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires,

10AM UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm and 7:30 pm) from

Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under.

Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

We have DIRECTV NFL Sunday Ticket Riverside Dining SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER Across from Harrah’s Casino next to Hilton Hotel

Enjoy noon an after ur o drink on patio!

21 47" LG LCD T.V.’s Gourmet Burgers, Wings, Gourmet Pizzas, Salads & Po-Boys Serving breakfast daily • Weekend Brunch

504-247-9265 • www.poppystimeoutsportsbar.com

THE GUIDE

All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

Museums & Exhibits CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $10; $8 seniors/ students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/ seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, I4

Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 am - 4 pm by Admission

HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Children learn

through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans” and “New Orleans: Proud to Call It Home.” Adults/children $8.50. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-5 pm; Su, noon-4:30 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 Julia St., 504.586.0725. Map 3, C6 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo, Map 3, G4)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History. 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St., Map 3, G5)– Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St., Map 3, G5)–Built in 1789, this is one of 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Unlock History. hgghh.org | 504.274.0746

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave., Map 3, I5)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint.

Presbytère (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–Continuing: Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana and Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond. For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $26 adults, $22.50 seniors, $16.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries”: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings.

The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm;

free. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smith-

sonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free).

Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10.50; students/ seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. www.southernfood.org. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3

Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-plus

bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from rilled octopus to caviar and potato chips. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3

HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance and access to the historic eatery’s full menu.

Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines. com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 RICK’S SPORTING SALOON The traditional sports

bar gets kicked up several notches at this Bourbon Street hot spot, which scores extra points with its handsome decor and gorgeous entertainers. The club features 10 high-definition TVs, along with 10 beers on draft. iknowrick.com. 522 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, G4

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 53

THE GUIDE

SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta Hotel recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of top-tier local talent nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 MUSIC BOX VILLAGE Make your own kind of music

at this whimsical wonderland, where ramshackle huts double as instruments. The one-of-a-kind venue also hosts live performances. www.musicboxvillage.com. 4557 N. Rampart St.. Map 1, E3 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Don’t feel like standing?

Call ahead for Big Shot seats. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends). www.spottedcatmusicclub.com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable

nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic,

always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4

54 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

You’re invited to the original Rick’s Cabaret New Orleans You haven’t seen Bourbon St. until you’ve seen Rick’s

315

Cabaret Bourbon Street

www.Rickscabaretnola.com

THE GUIDE

Navigate Give It a Spin

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2018.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

©ST. TAMMANY PARISH TOURISM COMMISSION

With more than 100 miles of designated paths (including the Lafitte Greenway, which runs from the French Quarter to Mid-City), New Orleans ranks among the top cities in the U.S. for urban biking. More a nature lover than city cyclist? Grab a twowheel rental and explore the Tammany Trace just across Lake Pontchartrain, which spans 31 miles through five Northshore (p.

59) communities, connecting Covington, Abita Springs, Mandeville, Lacombe and Slidell. Recently inducted into the national Rail-Trail Hall of Fame, the paved hike and bike path follows the now-defunct Illinois Central Railroad corridor, winding through piney woods and marshy bayous. The Trace offers plenty of shade, 31 bridges, covered pavilions, restroom access and close encounters with local wildlife. For maps, suggested stops and bicycle rental info, visit tammanytrace.org.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index General Information........................................................................... 58 Nearby Destinations............................................................................59 Cajun Country...........................................................................................59 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 59 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 59 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................59 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................59 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 59 Transportation ....................................................................................... 58

CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map

by Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include actor Brad Pitt’s Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts.

Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of

the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. www.houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

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Between parts of Magazine Street and St. Charles Avenue lies the Garden District and Uptown neighborhoods, perhaps the grandest of New Orleans’ neighborhoods. The Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne-style homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available.

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Rethinking River Road In 1971 the newly formed River Road Historical Society set out to restore longneglected Destrehan Plantation, turning a crumbling eyesore into a shining example of civic pride, and jumpstarting a new era of reconstruction along the historic highway. Nearly a half century later, Destrehan is once again part of a River Road revival, joining other area plantations, such as Laura and Whitney, in embracing the once-unspoken subject of slavery. At one time counting more than 200 enslaved workers, Destrehan was the site of an 1811 tribunal to determine punishment in the largest slave revolt in American history. But it also served as a home colony for the Freeman’s Bureau, housing more than 700 newly freed slaves by 1866. Think there’s nothing new to learn in old plantation country? Think again.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

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OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

DESTREHAN PLANTATION mounts its 45th annual Fall Festival Nov. 11-12, from 9 am to 4 pm, featuring more than 100 craft vendors and Creole/Cajun food booths.

66 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

©DESTREHAN PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 66 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 66 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 67 Dining........................................................................................................... 68

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 67

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 68 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 5 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 t S NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 in e NO a v OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 Sp hA AveOmni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 RH c n i l o kOC n R a Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 Fr St OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 6 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 7 Street Direction ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 French Quarter SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Jazzy Passes WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 1 day - $3 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 3 day - $9 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Sports Buffs

Romantics

Family Travelers

A nod to the Saints’ 2010 Super Bowl victory, (1) Champions Square, located next to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, swarms with football fans during home games. Beginning three hours prior to kickoff, the massive, multi-use space mounts free concerts. On the opposite side of the Dome is the New Orleans Pelicans’ roost, the (2) Smoothie King Center, where three NBA All-Star games and two Women’s Final Fours have played out. Check out the view from the Party Porch. Where to celebrate after the game?

Even if you’re not a big sports fan, you’re still guaranteed to stumble upon a good time along (3) Bourbon Street. Just remember, it’s not whether you win or lose … but how you handle your Hurricanes.

If City Park’s centuries-old live oak trees don’t make you swoon, the (1) New Orleans Museum of Art’s Besthoff Sculpture Garden will. More than 60 works are peppered amid lush landscaping, including Robert Indiana’s iconic “LOVE” sculpture. Forget candlelight; it’s flickering gaslight that sets French Quarter visitors’ hearts aflutter. Stop by (2) Bevolo’s Royal Street showroom to see the shop’s signature lamps being made by hand, and take one with you to keep the love fire burning back home. Indulge in each other in elegance at the (3) Spa at the Ritz-Carlton. Book your own private suite for a tandem couple’s massage.

Even sweeter is the champagne for two that’s included in the ritzy, relaxing “Le Charme Romantique” package.

Bourbon Street is known as an adult playground. But what’s there for kids to do in New Orleans? Plenty. The (1) Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium is home to 50,000 creepy crawlers. Junior entomologists craving something unique will get their fill in the “Bug Appétit” area. “Hands-on” is the key phrase at the (2) Louisiana Children’s Museum, where the “Little Port of New Orleans” allows small fries to pilot huge simulated barges down the Mississippi. Paul Bunyan rubs shoulders with King Kong and Elvis cavorts with giant mermaids at (3) Mardi Gras World, where the bigger-than-life creations are sure to get young imaginations moving. A tour of the compound also provides an educational overview of Carnival traditions.

72 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2017

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UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS

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LAURA

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504-569-1401 | 800-233-2628 | GrayLineNewOrleans.com

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Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com