Where Magazine New Orleans May 2018

MAY 2018 MONTH YEAR CELEBRATING THE COMPLETE80GUIDE YEARSTOOFGO® TRAVEL

New Orleans

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MUSIC FESTS FOOD FETES PLEIN AIR ART

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Flower Powered Edible Blossoms, Fresh-Picked Finds and Garden Strolls

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New Orleans CONTENTS

05.18

SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

the plan

the guide 22

11 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Barbara Askew Concierge at the Westin Canal Place Hotel.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood.

Plus five food fests to feast on.

12 Editor’s Note

32

Revisiting 50 years of Where New Orleans.

SHOPPING

XX

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus culinary collectibles and red beans-and-rice chips.

14 Hot Dates Wednesday at the Square Mid-week music, the final weekend of Jazzfest, Tank and the Bangas and 26 other entertainment ideas to put on your list.

17

39

XX

GALLERIES + ANTIQUES

A citywide gallery crawl. Plus an arty block party and the Modernist Cuisine Gallery.

47

ENTERTAINMENT

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs.

Plus more music festivals and a 300-object tricentennial exhibit.

72 New Orleans Your Way

ON THE COVER “Day Lily Bouquet on Violet,” by Benjamin Shamback at LeMieux Galleries, part of Jammin' on

MONTH MAY 2018 YEAR THE COMPLETE80GUIDE CELEBRATING YEARSTOOFGO® TRAVEL

58

®

MUSIC FESTS FOOD FETES

+

Flower Powered Edible Blossoms, Fresh-Picked Finds and Garden Strolls

Julia (p. 39).

wheretraveler.com E~NO-WM_180500_01_Cover.indd 1

4/4/18 11:14 AM

©LEMIEUX GALLERIES

NAVIGATE

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus Blue Bike-sharing.

New Orleans

PLEIN AIR ART

XX

Curated Crescent City itineraries for history lovers, LGBTQ visitors and supernatural seekers.

19

where now

XX

66

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus plantations’ starring roles.

16 Local Knowledge

From restaurants to shops, flowers are in season.

18 Out + About

Six picturesque garden strolls.

CONNECT WITH US

19 Local Flavor

25 things we love about New Orleans.

20 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

8 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

Must-try Mexican menus, hot restaurant dish and floral-flavored ice creams.

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 69-71

(LEFT) ©GUS BENNETT JR.; (CENTER, TOP) ©INTERNATIONAL HOUSE HOTEL; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK

XX

BAg of Donuts • shamarr allen & the underdogs

naughty professor • sweet cradle • bucktown allstars • darcy malone & the tangle • lost bayou

ramblers • sweet crude • mulligan brothers

JUNE 2 & 3 SHUCKING STARTS

You will enjoy great live music and delicious oyster dishes from some of the most famous restaurants in New Orleans. So whether you like your oysters raw, charbroiled or fried and served on a po-boy, you are sure to find something to cure your cravings. Come on out to Woldenberg Park and celebrate our city’s delicious oyster cuisine.

PURCHASE YOUR VIP TICKETS TODAY NOLAOysterFest.org

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NEW ORLEANS

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EDITORIAL & DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Jennifer CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

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MVP is a proud sponsor of Les Clefs d’Or USA

10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Barbara Askew Concierge at the Westin Canal Place Q: The weather is perfect for alfresco dining. Recommend a restaurant with outdoor seating.

A: Café Amelie (p. 25) has a beautiful courtyard and an interesting history. Having brunch, lunch or dinner there is very special.

Q: Suggest a few activities for visitors with children.

A: In addition to the Audubon destinations (p. 47), I think the French Quarter can be a magical place for children: exploring on a carriage tour, enjoying the street entertainers, visiting the French Market, having beignets at Café Du Monde (p. 25). Top it off with a ride on the Natchez (p. 51) or Creole Queen (p. 48).

Q: The Westin is known for its amazing river vistas. Where else would you guide guests for cool views of the city?

A: The Hot Tin (p. 54) rooftop bar at the Pontchartrain Hotel has unique views of the skyline...and handcrafted cocktails.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©RANDY SCHMIDT

Q: The Westin also connects to the Shops at Canal Place. Name two stores visitors should step into.

A: LA Guild (p. 45), for traditional and contemporary arts and crafts representing 250 members throughout the state, and Mignon Faget (p. 37), for locally designed jewelry.

Q: What do you love most about New Orleans?

A: Its many historic neighborhoods and its food and music cultures. The Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 53) is a great resource for exploring all three.

Hot Tin

11

EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY

A LOOK BACK

PIANO LOUNGE • PATIO • RESTAURANT

EAT, DRINK &

Where We Were This year marks Where New Orleans’ 50th anniversary. To commemorate the mid-century milestone, we opened our archives, dusted off back issues and throughout 2018 will be revisiting years past. This month we set the wayback machine to 1982.

Jazzfest offered Fats Domino, Chuck Berry, James Booker, Etta James and B.B. King (along with $6 tickets), while the Budweiser Superfest touted Stevie Wonder, Quincy Jones and James Ingram. The KOOL Jazz Fest brought Dizzy Gillespie, Sarah Vaughn and Art Blakey to City Park, and the Festival de Musique Acadiens drove two-steppers to Lafayette.

Ethel Merman opened the New Orleans Pops’ summer season, Itzhak Perlman performed at the Orpheum and Tipitina’s drew “a loose half-hippie and half-serious confederation of people who love music but don’t put artists on pedestals.” The lakefront bustled with restaurants and Pontchartrain Park, steamboat races churned up the Mississippi, and moviegoers were serenaded by the Saenger’s “Wonder Organ” prior to shows.

Restaurant Jonathan wooed diners with its Continental cuisine and art deco elegance, Mexican eateries were all the rage and the Fish Market used “only Grade-A butter for its sauces.” Lilly Pulitzer added a splash of color to the French Quarter, Porter Stevens was the source for Johnny Carson suits and “one-hour photo developing” revolutionized the way travelers viewed the world.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

in the world

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Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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WHERE CALENDAR MAY

For more information: wheretraveler.com

Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com

TOP STOPS 23 additional events and ideas worth entertaining.

CIVIC THEATRE May 1: Beach House; May 2: The Afghan Whigs and Built to Spill. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865; civicnola.com HOUSE OF BLUES May 3: Trombone Shorty Fest; May 4: Cowboy Mouth and the Funky Meters; May 6: George Clinton & Parliament Funkadelic; May 18: Dru Hill. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583; hob.com

DATES MAY 2, 9, 16, 23 & 30:

Wednesday at the Square

That joyful noise rising up from Lafayette Square? That’s the sound of folks celebrating the midweek mark with a little live music in the great outdoors. The free Wednesday at the Square springtime concert series continues throughout the month with a crowd-pleasing roster of local favorites; opening acts begin at 6 pm, with headliners hitting the stage at 6 pm. May 2: Amanda Shaw and Trumpet Mafia; May 9: Bonerama and the N’awlins Johnnys; May 16: TBA and Motel Radio; May 23: Maggie Koerner and Naughty Professor; May 30: Shamarr Allen (shown above left) with Robin Barnes and the Fiya Birds. St. Charles Ave. and Lafayette St.; ylcnola.org

5

caption here Trombone Shorty

Great Things Not to Be Missed

1 JAZZFEST > MAY 36 Lionel Richie, Beck, Anita Baker, Sheryl Crow, Jack White, Areosmith and Trombone Shorty lead an eclectic lineup to cap off the final weekend of the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival. 1751 Gentilly Blvd.; nojazzfest.com

Tank and the Bangas

TANK AND THE BANGAS > MAY 4 Missed the winners of the 2017 NPR Tiny Desk Contest when they performed today at Jazzfest?

Catch them tonight at the Civic Theatre.

510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865

sculpture garden serves as the setting for this innovative take on the Alexandre Dumas’ classic that’s “part Monty Python foolishness, part swashbuckling adventure tale.” Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.302.9117; nolaproject.com

LE PETIT THEATRE May 11-27: “An Act of God.” 616 St. Peter St., 504.522.2081; lepetittheatre.com

4 JAZZ IN THE PARK > MAY 3, 10, 17 & 31 This free, weekly Armstrong Park performance series culls its lineup from the Tremé neighborhood’s wealth of musical talent. Music begin at 5 pm. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets; pufap.org

ORPHEUM THEATER May 25: New Orleans Ballet Theatre presents: “Giselle.” 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870; orpheumnola.com

2

3 THE THREE MUSKETEERS > MAY 927 The New Orleans Museum of Art’s outdoor

5 STEELY DAN > MAY 28 The 1970s live on with the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductees (“Rikki Don’t Loose That Number”) joining forces with fellow multi-Grammy winners the Doobie Brothers (“Takin’ It to the Streets”) at the Smoothie King Center. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

For a full calendar of events, go to wheretraveler.com/new-orleans/local-events 14 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

JOY THEATER May 3: Rage! Fest; May 4: Galactic; May 5: Karl Denson’s Tiny Universe; May 5-6: The New Mastersounds; May 8: Ethan Bortnick; May 12: Bobby Bones; May 16: Dr. Dog; May 19: Big Boi; May 24: David Crosby. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569; thejoytheater.com

SAENGER THEATRE May 3: The Revivalists; May 4: Gov’t Mule; May 5: Ryan Adams; May 11: Chicago; May 19: Joe Bonamassa; May 20: ZZ Top. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000; saengernola.com

(TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; (CENTER) ©525 WORLDWIDE; (BOTTOM) ©GUS BENNETT JR.

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where now New Orleans

The city’s top attractions, entertainment, dining and more

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Flower Powered The Big Easy blossoms in springtime

“Carlos Rolón: Outside/In”

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

BY LORIN GAUDIN

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

(TOP) ©THE COUNTRY CLUB; (CENTER) ©INTERNATIONAL HOUSE HOTEL; (OPENING PAGE) ©CARLOS ROBÓN AND DAVID CASTILLO GALLERY/PHOTO BY NATHAN KEAY

M

AY IN NEW ORLEANS is a pistil...and that’s not a spelling error. Spring fever is in full bloom, and the floral focal point is the city’s abundance of petals plucked and arranged in a bouquet of ways: on dinner plates, in beverages, art, jewelry, perfume and candles or simply as a backdrop for Instagram glory. What rises from the earth is nature’s paint on the local landscape. The city is a garden party for eating, shopping and playing among the flowers.

EAT/DRINK Edible blossoms are more than a passing

The dining rooms at The Country Club (top) feature massive floral murals by artist Cindy Mathis; Alan Walter’s Persephone cocktail, accented with lavendar, at Loa.

fancy, appearing in both food and restaurant design elements. Take The Country Club (p. 30), for example, which recently underwent a major renovation, elevating the lush vibe of its gorgeous pool and grounds by bringing giant, hand-painted indigenous flowers to indoor dining rooms.

Coming in from the garden to the kitchen are handfuls of teeny, edible flowers and leggy green herbs. Longtime food industry gal Jo LaRocca has a sizeable (and growing) edible flower business, geared to restaurant use in dishes and drinks, that she calls Jo Jo Garden. She and longtime partner J.N. Zink once cultivated a salad they dubbed “A Walk Through the Garden,” and it’s that salad and the edible flowers LaRocca grows and sells that are the inspiration for a variety of dishes Zink is rolling out at The Franklin (p. 30), where he was recently installed as executive

creative, ever-changing, seasonal cocktails, while Alan Walter,

chef. Look for torn leaves of lemon sorrel, garlic chives, Johnny

the barman at Loa in the International House Hotel (221 Camp

Jump Ups and a slew of flower buds and herbs to pair with

St., 504.553.9500), famously forages wild for his distinctive take

charred octopus or a beautifully re-envisioned yakamein.

on cocktails, incorporating locally sourced Spanish moss, pine

Inside the Ace Hotel, Josephine Estelle‘s (p. 23) prettily

needles and ligustrum in and on the glass.

plated dishes often include a smattering of small flower buds and herbs that are more than garnish; they bolster and add

PLAY

complementary flavor. We love the flower-dappled crispy

Get in on the latest Instagram trend of faking it with selfies in

sunchokes. On the sweet side, Chaya Conrad’s insanely beauti-

front of faux flowers at big-box craft stores (#craftstorechal-

ful, floral-topped petit fours fill the case at Bywater Bakery (p.

lenge), or get real and gape at the gardens, geese and gondola

30), while rose and violette flavors add character, not soapi-

on a walk around the “Big Lake” at City Park (p. 47). A few steps

ness, to the rolled ice cream at Dat Ice Roll (3336 Magazine St.,

away, you can tiptoe through the tropical flora- and fauna-

504.505.0285).

heavy “Carlos Rolón: Outside/In” exhibit at the New Orleans

Floral flavors have graced cocktails since forever. Evidence the orange flower-laced Ramos Gin Fizz, expertly made by

Museum of Art (p. 54).

Naked Gardening Day is May 5—no, really! Or you can get

Chris McMillian at Revel (p. 30). Flower girl Laura Bellucci, lead

back to nature at Paradigm Gardens (paradigmgardensnola.

bartender at SoBou (p. 29), incorporates honeysuckle vodka,

com), an urban outdoor garden and dining space in the Central

elderflower liqueur and her own floral and herb syrups in

City neighborhood that’s always bursting with seasonal herbs, 17

WHERE NOW New

Orleans OUT+ABOUT

Gardens of Delight Six green-space getaways

vegetables and edible flowers. Check its events calendar for incredible garden dinners and concerts helmed by top local chefs and musicians.

SHOP Fresh flowers can transform a hotel room. Lovely stems can be found bundled at the French Market (p. 47), Whole Foods (p.

35) and the Sunday Shop (2025 Magazine St., 504.342.2087), where unique stems and greens gathered by local flower goddess Emily Eberwine of Pick-A-Petal are also sold singly.

Smelling like New Orleans’ flowers is a breeze. Hové (p. 36) is storied for capturing and bottling local floral fragrances of magnolia, azalea, tea olive, camellia and Spanish moss to dab on wrists or behind knees. More deep, earthy scents, like nightblooming jasmine or lavender, are diffused into essential oils at Rosalie Apothecary (3201 Toulouse St., 504.488.4425), which also carries Louisiana-made Olive + Ani jasmine natural deodorant (it smells divine and works like a dream).

Pick a handful of hand-painted flower needlepoint canvases at The Quarter Stitch (629 Chartres St., 504.522.4451), bag beautiful botanical prints from the gift shop at the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 53), and grab a bottle of “Garden District Azalea” calligraphy ink from Papier Plume (p. 35). Step into Shoe Be Do (p. 38) for designer Dan Sullivan’s “Forbury Gardens” wedges, or pop in at Gogo (p. 37) for bright pop-art flower jewelry.

When April showers bring May flowers, New Orleans becomes bloom obsessed, and no leaf (or petal) goes unturned.

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

CITY PARK This 1,300-acre green space claims the world’s largest collection of mature live oak trees. The Botanical Gardens feature more than 2,000 different plants from around the globe, along with the New Orleans Historic Train Garden, a miniature railroad exhibit with local landmarks constructed from botanical materials. At Roosevelt Mall and Marconi Drive, you’ll find massive wildflower fields. neworleanscitypark.com LONGUE VUE The 1930s estate of Sears heiress Edith Stern and her philanthropist husband Edgar is just minutes from downtown—and a world apart. The Classical Revival mansion is home to eight acres of

Armstrong Park

pristine gardens and manicured grounds, designed by Ellen Biddle Shipman, the “dean of American women landscape architects.” longuevue.com CRESCENT PARK Erected on what was once crumbling wharfs, this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade provides a nature escape on the edge of the French Quarter. In addition to sweeping views, the park offers a variety of native plantings. crescentparknola.org ARMSTRONG PARK With its numerous statues devoted to the city’s many music greats, it’s easy to overlook Armstrong’s Antique Rose Garden. To the right of the main entrance, over the lagoon, are more than 100 heirloom varieties.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS Again, it’s all in the name. “Our method of gardening is ‘jewel box,’” says Craig Black, who has been tending the stunning grounds of “the crown jewel of River Road” for more than four decades. “At every turn another gem is offered.” houmashouse.com Longue Vue

(TOP, LEFT) ©SHOE BE DO; (TOP, RIGHT) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (BOTTOM) ©LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS

Shoe Be Do

THE GARDEN DISTRICT The name says it all. When it was originally laid out in the early 1800s, the city’s “American sector” was designed with only a few houses on each block, leaving the rest to expansive gardens. Now more densely populated, the area still wows with its giant oaks, oversized azaleas and gorgeous grounds. The St. Charles streetcar affords great views, but don’t just sit; get out and walk. The neighborhood’s beauty is best experienced up-close and on foot.

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

LOCAL FLAVOR

25 Things We Love About New Orleans In honor of the city’s tricentennial, each month during 2018 we are highlighting a few of our favorite things (25 x 12 = 300).

Have one of your own? Share it with us at wheretraveler.com, and we’ll consider it for the next issue.

1

14

Giving in to Mother Nature and dancing during downpours at Jazzfest.

The Audubon Zoo’s (p. 47) annual Mother’s Day concert, featuring “the Soul Queen of New Orleans,” Grammy winner Irma Thomas.

2

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER, LEFT) ©TUJAGUE’S; (CENTER, RIGHT) ©ZACK SMITH/NOCVB; (BOTTOM) ©LORI MONAHAN BORDEN/SHUTTERSTOCK INC.

Voodoo priestess Marie Laveau’s XXX-marked tomb in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, the secondmost visited gravesite in the U.S. (after Elvis, of course).

15

Revisiting Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday with the naughty-but-nice Burlesque Ballroom revue at the Jazz Playhouse (p. 56).

3

Carriage tour drivers who dress to match their colorful coaches.

4

The white-tiled walls and overstuffed oyster loaf sandwiches at Casamento’s (p. 31).

5 6

16

Artist and educator Richard Thomas, celebrating 40 years of exhibiting at Jazzfest.

1

17

The Historic New Orleans Collection’s (p. 53) “New Orleans, the Founding Era” exhibit.

Giving props to Pops while strolling Armstrong Park (p. 47).

18

Getting hopped up on Grasshopper cocktails at Tujague’s, where the minty drink originated (p. 29).

The Abita Mystery House (p.

52)—the mad, mad, mad, mad world of artist John Preble.

7

19

The Mississippi-meets-Mekong mural at Maypop (p. 24), a nod to the city’s cross-cultural cuisine.

8 9

Suiting up in seersucker at Perlis (p. 32).

Brandi Couvillion’s cuff bracelets, patterned after early maps of the city.

18

Getting splashed by the Creole Queen’s giant, churning paddlewheel (p. 48).

Shrimp in remoulade sauce at Arnaud’s (p. 25), currently celebrating a century of Creole fine dining.

Discovering unsung talent in one of the city’s many music clubs.

City Park’s (p. 47) Enrique Alférez Sculpture Garden, a salute to the city’s most prolific public artist.

22 23 24

11

Creating French Quarter ambiance in our own backyards with gas lamps from Bevolo (p. 40).

The Sunday jazz Mass at St. Augustine Church (p. 48).

Bellying up to the oyster bar at Bourbon House (p. 25).

Getting hands-on with history during the National WWII Museum’s White Glove Wednesday tours (p. 54).

12

Tracking a trail of powdered sugar down N. Peters Street to its point of origin, Café Du Monde (p. 25).

13

20 21

10

The undulating oaks lining St. Charles Avenue.

12

25

25

The Holy Cross neighborhood’s twin “steamboat houses.”

19

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed.

Araña FOOD+DRINK

Olé NOLA! No matter what part of the city, there is Mexican food…good Mexican food with a familiar sameness (homespun dishes, beans and rice, spiciness) and just enough differences (tortillas vs. bread, cilantro vs. parsley, etc.) for interest. Right now there are loads of small, cuisine-conscious, brick-and-mortar restaurants, chips off the once-dominant taco truck block, to dip into.

Downtown, El Patio Mexican Kitchen & Tequila Garden (845 Carondelet St., 504.302.1600) is a brightly lit space with ample outdoor seating and a festive atmosphere. The food leans more contemporary with traditional hints: duck meatballs (albondigas) draped with a cool peanut mole and pickled onions; smoked mushroom tacos bolstered by a roasted poblano aioli; and crispy Gulf shrimp with a green sauce and pumpkin seeds are demonstrative. The drinks are sturdy, and the churro sandwich dessert with horchata ice cream and salted peanut butter praline is delicious fun.

Uptown, chef Richard Papier recently reinvigorated the menu at Araña (p. 30) with a complex raisin, ground beef and picadillo-stuffed chile relleno, 12 taco-filling options and plenty of beer, tequilas, cock20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

tails and non-alcoholic beverages, including Topo Chico bubble water.

Further down Magazine Street, Del Fuego‘s (p. 31) incredible margaritas (seasonal fruits or the tamarind are top draws) pair well with house-made soft corn tortillas to wrap around spoonsful of spinach and chorizo-studded Queso Fundido. Definitely get the Sikil Pak, a creamy pumpkin-seed dip.

In the Riverbend, La Mansión (724 Dublin St., 504.249.5830) feeds the need with a straightforward menu including eight kinds of enchiladas. Meanwhile in Mid-City, Taqueria Guerrero Mexico (208 N. Carrollton Ave., 504. 484.6959) offers home-style plates, oversized chilled schooners of Mexican shrimp cocktail and, on the weekends, big bowls of menudo to cure the ails from the night before. —Lorin Gaudin

MOMO RAMEN + POKE Jump off the St. Charles streetcar in the Riverbend neighborhood, where this new two-story restaurant features the foods-of-the-moment: poke and ramen. With casual counter service upstairs and full table service on the first floor, the menu range is impressive, going from Miso-Crusted Bone Marrow to kale noodles for vegan ramen.

There’s also a Japanese-style robata grill, kaarage (fried chicken) and familiar appetizer bits, like dumplings and spicy-sweet Bang Bang Shrimp. 632 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.218.5248

with vegetables (we’re into the potatoes, spices and peas) and herb and tamarind chutneys for dipping.

801 Magazine St., no phone 1000 FIGS This petite café, conveniently located near City Park and the New Orleans Museum of Art, is known for its fresh take on falafel served with raw julienned vegetable slaw, perfectly blitzed hummus, locally made breads, stunning frizzled Brussels sprouts and hand-cut fries to drag through toum (a thick garlic sauce). There is no wrong order. This gem even manages to turn a chicken salad sandwich into a constant craving. 3141 Ponce de Leon, 504.301.0848 —LG

AUCTION HOUSE MARKET This new Warehouse District food hall is bright, modern and a great place to check out a wide variety of dining options (think local and global flavors). Throw down a few Gulf oysters at Elysian Seafood, or hit the mother-and-son-operated Tava Indian Streetfood for crispy rice and lentil pancakes (dosa) filled

1000 Figs

LAST BITE The flavor of flowers in food and drink is growing on diners. With spring’s arrival, up pops rose macarons at Sucré (p. 29), lavender lemonades at smart cafés and flower essences churned into ice creams and sorbets at Creole Creamery (4924 Prytania St., 504.894.8680). Chef Bryan Gilmore, Creamery’s flavor guru, rolls out an impressive list of floral flavors, including a heady, spritzy Champagne Violette, White Tea & Jasmine, La Vie en Rose and two ice creams so popular the shop has a hard time keeping them in the case: Lavender Honey (slightly minty and earthy) and Magnolia Flower (lightly aromatic, like a souped-up vanilla).

Note: The magnolia is Louisiana’s state flower, and the ice cream flavor has everyone in a state…of excitement. —LG

(TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; (CENTER) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©LORIN GAUDIN

WHERE NOW New

the guide Dining May

Food Fest Frenzy

Central Business/ Warehouse District AGLIO Italian. This ramped-up neighborhood deli

pays homage to the chefs’ Louisiana and Sicilian heritages with family favorites like fig cookies, red gravy and meatballs taken to the next level. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.aglionola.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.827.1090. Map 3, B4 THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic. Sister to St.

Roch Market, this spacious food hall offers a variety of vendors and cuisines, from Indian and Egyptian to Mediterranean and Hawaiian, anchored by a central bar. $ B, L, D (daily). www.auctionhousemarket.com. 801 Magazine St., no phone. Map 3, C6 BALISE French. Chef Justin Devillier of La Petite

Grocery and “Top Chef” fame now has a second 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

crawdads May 12 during Crawfish Mambo (crawfishmambo.com). The Jazz in the Park Crab Fest (pufap.org) serves up creative crusteacean dishes, along with performances by jazz greats Michael Franks and Loose Ends, May 11 at Armstrong Park, while Greek Fest (greekfestnola.com) satisfies Mediterranean-cuisine cravings May

space in a beautifully restored 1830s building with cool art, smart cocktails and a small menu with depth. Must-haves include the fried smoked oysters and chicken and ricotta dumplings. $$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.balisenola.com. 640 Carondelet St., 504.459.4449. Map 3, C5 BORGNE Seafood. At this seafood-centric

restaurant, fantastic apps (such as duck-andjalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with easygoing sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. $$ L, D (daily). www.borgnerestaurant. com. 601 Loyola Ave. (in the Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504.613.3860. Map 3, C3 BRIQUETTESeafood. Contemporary coastal is the

catch at this sprawling Warehouse District space.

Follow the lobster-andouille tamale with a lump crab-and-pickled mirliton salad then dive into broiled sea scallops with cheddar grits or a grilled whole redfish. $$$ D (nightly). www.briquettenola. com. 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 CAFÉ ADELAIDE Louisiana. Chef Meg Bickford

helms the kitchen at this bistro spinoff of Commander’s Palace in the Loews Hotel. Bickford serves up playful takes on modern Creole cuisine, like oyster and pork belly po’boys. B, L (M-F), D

25-27 on the grounds of the nation’s oldest Greek Orthodox church. For a real taste of the town, dig into the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience’s Grand Tastings (nowfe.com) May 25-26 at the Convention Center, where the city’s top chefs serve up blue-ribbon dishes accompanied by fine vintages from around the globe.

(nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.cafeadelaide.com. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6 CAFÉ CARMO International. This island-inspired

space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich—a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork—and shrimp-filled black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. $ B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.cafecarmo.com. 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 CLEO’S Mediterranean. Egyptian transplant Tarek

Madkour brings a taste of the Middle East to the CBD. Open 24/7, his café/convenience store offers an extensive selection of kebab sandwiches and plates, along with shawarma, fried kibbeh, stuffed grape leaves, falafel, salads and more. $ B, L, D (daily). 940 Canal St., 504.522.4504. Map 3, E3

(LEFT AND CENTER) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NOCVB; (RIGHT) ©NOWFE

In New Orleans we don’t just love to eat, we make full-on celebrations out of our food fanaticism. Take the NOLA Crawfish Festival (nolacrawfishfest.com), continuing through May 2 at Central City BBQ (p.

24), which combines mudbugs with music, while also catering to the ’que crowd. You’ll find the lakefront crawling with even more

DINING

COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Biderman’s

award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Hand-ground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; housemade mayo and pickles; fresh-

baked buns. Add a side of hand-cut, twice-cooked fries...and dig in. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6

CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 THE DAILY BEETVegetarian. Light, healthy eats and

cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrialchic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an “Orbit” bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. $ B, L, D (daily). www.thedailybeetnola.com. 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, B4 DOMENICA Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot offers out-of-the-norm antipasta (octopus carpaccio, roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 FLAMINGO AGOGO Eclectic. This sprawling

space features a massive patio, 35 taps pouring beer, wine and batched “flocktails” and latenight bites until 2 am. Tuck into poke bowls and flatbreads at lunch or go big with Hawaiian steak kabobs for dinner. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (SaSu). www.flamingonola.com. 869 Magazine St., 504.577.2202. Map 3, B6 GRILL ROOM Contemporary. The Forbes four-star

fine dining room at the Windsor Court Hotel is a favorite of both locals and visitors. Refined yet relaxed, the Grill Room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. Excellent wine program. $$$ B, D (daily), L (M-F); jazz Br (Sa-Su). www.windsorcourthotel.com. 300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6 HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine

dining spots. The award-winning menu changes fequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com. 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hip eatery puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L, D (daily). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant.com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................22

Central City..................................................................................................24 French Quarter.........................................................................................25 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 29 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................30 Mid-City..........................................................................................................30 Uptown..........................................................................................................30

MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 PICAYUNE SOCIAL HOUSE Eclectic. The menu at

this bar/pub pulls from the Mediterranean and East Asia. Dig into tandoor-baked naan bread topped with falafal, aromatic curry fries, homey deviled eggs and a buttery crab dip. Or hit happy hour, when all breads and spreads are half-priced. $ L, D (daily). www.picayunesocialhouse.com. 326 Camp St., 504.308.3583. Map 3, D5 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap (including a full line of locally made Abita brews), live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

(Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 SACALAIT Louisiana. Chefs Cody and Samantha

Carroll bring country dishes with a city spin. Proof: smothered duck hearts with goat cheese grits, pig’s ear with caviar and creme fraiche or tuna tartare with venison sweetbreads. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.sac-a-laitrestaurant.com. 1051 Annunciation St., 504.324.3658. Map 3, B7 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St. James

is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. $ L (M-Su), D (M-Sa); check location hours. www.stjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4 TSUNAMISushi. At this massive sushi empo-

rium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Big appetites will want to hit the “Sumo Ribeye.” $$ L, D (MSa). www.servingsushi.com. 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chef Kelly

Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory sides as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue

and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L, D (daily). www.centralcitybbq.com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (Su). www.

DINING

toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell.

Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the country ham-wrapped rabbit leg. $$$ D (W-Su); Br (FSu). www.angelinenola.com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

“Shrimp Arnaud,” “Oysters Bienville” and “Café Brûlot” are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BACKSPACE BAR & KITCHEN American. Typewrit-

ers and books line the walls of this comfy spot, which pays homage to the French Quarter’s rich literary legacy. The bar serves drinks fashioned after famed authors’ faves, while the kitchen offers gumbo and sandwiches. Try the “Whitman—roast beef with fried oysters and Swiss on ciabatta. $ L, D (daily). www.backspacenola.com. 139 Chartres St., 504.322.2245. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Bayona continues its reign

as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 THE BOMBAY CLUB Louisiana. Chef Phillip Todd’s

European-inspired Louisiana cuisine is a perfect fit for this swanky spot tucked into the Prince Conti Hotel. Cultures combine in dishes such as boudin Scotch eggs and Abita beer-battered fish and chips. Great cocktails and live music nightly. $$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.bombayclubneworleans. com. 830 Conti St., 504.577.2237. Map 3, F4 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed

shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Dig into long-popular classics, such as broiled black drum with rosemarymustard crust and ginger-apple glaze. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana. The perfect spot for a

leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the citrus roasted chicken, satsuma and pepper-glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L, D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). A quick-service offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 504.412.8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and

delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. $ B, L, D (daily).

Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant

provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as jerk chicken and plantain dumplings. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.caneandtablenola.com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). centralgrocery.com/. 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 CLOVER GRILL American. The prospect of big juicy

burgers, overstuffed omelets and a cheeky version of retro 1950s ambiance draws all walks of life to this Bourbon Street institution at all hours. The theatrics on both sides of the counter are often worthy of a Fellini film. $ Open 24 hours. www.clovergrill. com. 900 Bourbon St., 504.598.1010. Map 3, H4 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu.

Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ D (nightly). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola.com.

301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop with superior quality dryaged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list, though the handsome remodel of the historic space is alone worth a visit. $$$ L (F-Su), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com

Now Serving Lunch

GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GREEN GODDESS Eclectic. Possibly the only place

in town you’ll find beet hummus and truffle grits sharing menu space with wild-boar meatloaf and bacon sundaes. $ L, D (W-Su). www.greengoddessrestaurant.com. 307 Exchange Place, 504.301.3347. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has

taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic

and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. $$ D (M-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from 26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

Grab dinner or drinks after Jazz Fest at New Orleans Creole Cookery

510 Toulouse St.|504.524.9632 NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

DINING

Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.

His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular dining spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LANDRY’S SEAFOODSeafood. Landry’s

locations fittingly offer sweeping views of the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain. The menu is loaded with a wide array of Louisiana coastal cuisine, from shrimp po’ boys to trout meunière, in addition to other specialties. $$ L, D (daily). www.landrysseafood.com. 620 Decatur St., 504.581.9825. Map 3, G5; 504.283.1010. Map 1, D1 MEAUXBAR French. French bistro standards

tweaked with a thoughtful, modern hand. Dishes include escargot with shiitakes in brandy cream and mussels nestled in a harrisa broth, crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. $$ D (nightly); Br (Su). www.meauxbar.com. 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole. Overlooking

Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Erik Venéy’s w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfish-andgoat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa, Su jazz brunch). www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro recently received a full makeover to mark its 25th anniversary. The new small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oyster-and-brie pot pie. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com.

132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

KRYSTAL CUSTOM BREAKFAST 3 EGG BREAKFAST & BEVERAGE

5.59

$

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated; try the turtle soup, shrimp remoulade or oysters from the raw bar. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed (Limoges china, purse stools), while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

* Consuming raw or undercooked meats, poultry, seafood, shellfish, or eggs may increase your risk of foodborne illness, especially if you have a medical condition.

©2018 Copyright The Krystal Company. All rights reserved.

DINING

of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. Pastry chef extraordi-

naire Tariq Hanna’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for a lingering brunch or afternoon tea. Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Br, L (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com. 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south of

Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance

meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dan-

gle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.sylvainnola. com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 TRINITY Louisiana. The menu here pays homage

to the “trinity” of flavors, elements and techniques in New Orleans cuisine. Hush puppies get richness from duck fat, while the cucumber salad refreshes with crisp apples and pairs perfectly with the citrusy seared snapper. $$$ D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www.trinityrestaurantneworleans.com. 1117 Decatur St., 504.325.5789. Map 3, I5 TUJAGUE’S Creole. Open since 1856, Tujague’s

(“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.tujaguesrestaurant. com. 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italw w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

ian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes and decadent chocolate beignets making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 EMERIL’S DELMONICO Creole. Located on the St.

Charles streetcar line, this elegant circa-1895 restaurant now serves chef Emeril Lagasse’s modern takes on Creole classics. Start with the housemade charcuterie, before moving on to dry-aged steaks, shrimp Bordelaise or reinvented drum meunière. $$$ D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937. Map 1, D3 POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-

your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes (edamame, fish roe, etc.). $ L, D (daily) www.eatpokeloa.com. 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; 939 Girod St., #140, 504.571.5174. Map 3, B4; 701 Metairie Rd., 504.605.4184. Map 3, C2 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L (WM). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/

bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com.

600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 BYWATER AMERICAN BISTROAmerican. The menu

at the casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, crab fat rice with green apple and nasturtium; try the rabbit curry. $$ D (WSu); Br (Sa-Su). www.bywateramericanbistro.com.

2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3 BYWATER BAKERY Bakery. Along with pastries and

cakes, the menu at this sweet neighborhood spot offers straightforward sandwiches, both closed and open-faced (ham, turkey, salmon, avocado, etc.), soups, Mason jar salads and “Breakfast GoCups.” $ B, L (daily). www.bywaterbakery.com. 3624 Dauphine St., 504.336.3336. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 ELIZABETH’S American. “Real food done real

good” is the motto at this homey neighborhood spot, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. $$ B, L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.elizabeths-restaurant.com. 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3 THE FRANKLIN Contemporary. This handsome

small-plates restaurant is a fine addition to the 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

Marigny dining scene. The food is both pretty and full-flavored, with creative dishes such as Jamaican jerk quail and crispy sweetbreads with crab, spinach and champagne buerre blanc. $$ D (nightly); Su brunch. www.thefranklinnola.com. 2600 Dauphine St., 504.267.0640. Map 1, E3 THE JOINT Barbecue. This funky Bywater fave

is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. Featured on the Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.” $ L, D (M-Sa). www.alwayssmokin.com. 701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PALOMA CAFÉ Latin. This cozy Bywater corner spot

puts out smart, Latin-inspired dishes. The fried cod fritters, chorizo-and-egg biscuits, mojo-roasted pork on fried green plantains and flan are all top picks. $ B, L, D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www.palomanola. com. 800 Louisa St., 504.304.3062. Map 1, E3 PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian. This pop-up pizzeria

grew so popular that it now has its own brickand-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.pizzadelicious.com. 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3

Mid-City ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery. This century-old ice

cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with glass-topped tables, slow-turning ceiling fans and some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. $ Open Tu-Su. www.angelobrocatoicecream.com.

214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.0078. Map 1, D2 BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 ECHO’S Italian. Just off the Canal streetcar

line, this pizza joint’s menu offers cool “Little Things,” like anchovies with bread and butter, and killer pies with chewy, fragrant crusts that come blistered and a bit charred (a good thing). $ L, D (W-M). www.echospizza.com. 3200 Banks St., 504.267.3231. Map 1, D3

RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restau-

rateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.ralphsonthepark. com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 REVEL CAFÉ & BAR Eclectic. Cocktail guru Chris

McMillian, wife Laura and their family run this casual café with an in-house bread program (thank you son-in-law Jose), a sandwich-heavy menu (get the crawfish grilled cheese) and, of course, great craft cocktails. $ L, D (Tu-Sa). 133 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.309.3612. Map 1, D2 1000 FIGS Mediterranean. This popular Mid-City

spot is the brick-and-mortar space of the team behind the equally popular Fat Falafel food truck.

Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj and lamb. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.1000figs.com. 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

(Toups South) is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com.

845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown APOLLINE Louisiana. In this renovated shotgun

house, contemporary twists on French/Creole cuisine make diners feel right at home. Char-broiled oysters with bacon marmalade, cold-smoked pork chops, seared scallops with maque choux and pork plank; at brunch try the confit duck with potato hash, duck cracklin and Hollandaise. $$$ Brunch, D (Tu-Su). www.apollinerestaurant.com. 4729 Magazine St., 504.894.8881. Map 1, D4 ARAÑA Mexican. Chef Richard “Spider” Papier fills

his menu with gently Americanized Mexican fare.

Standouts include well-spiced chorizo tacos and a fiery torta ahogada—slow-roasted pork on bolillo bread with black-bean puree and avocado crema. $$ L, D (daily). www.aranataqueria.com. 3242 Magazine St., 504.894.1233. Map 1, D4 AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great

off-the-beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L (Tu-Sa); D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www. boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 CAMELLIA GRILL American. Say burger in New Or-

leans, and Camellia Grill instantly comes to mind.

Why? Juicy cheeseburgers, crispy fries and savory chili at one of the most coveted lunch (and dinner) counters in the city—that’s why. $ B, L, D (daily).

626 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.309.2679. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s Riverbend restaurant is light and

DINING

Riverside Dining

“Home of the Steamed Seafood Bucket”

SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER Across from Harrah’s Casino

Enjoy one of our filing seafood buckets

•Royal Bucket •Bourbon St. Combo (Boiled Shrimp & Snow Crab)

airy. His market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flashfried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ L (Th-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 1, C3 CASAMENTO’S Seafood. Open since 1919, this

Uptown landmark is oyster heaven for those with a taste for plump Gulf bivalves. Get them fried for sandwiches built on thick slices of toast, floating in buttery stew or simply raw and cold on the half shell. $ L (Tu-Sa), D (Th-Sa). www. casamentosrestaurant.com. 4330 Magazine St., 504.895.9761. Map 1, D4 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots and salmon poke tacos before devouring the chicken fried rabbit or turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4

504-569-3380 Certificate of Excellence winner.

www.thecrazylobster.com

Finish your Jazz Festival with drinks and dinner at our Spanish Plaza inside the restaurant on our patio.

DEL FUEGO Mexican. Chef David Wright and bar

gal Shannon Solomon’s ramped-up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during their travels to Mexico. Housemade tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.delfuegotaqueria.com. 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB

pays homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. Killer cocktail program. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3

Where do you want to go?

Find the best of the city

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

LA PETITE GROCERY French. What once was a

corner grocery has been exquisitely transformed into an intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans land-

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS Louisiana. Chef Aaron Burgau has earned

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a young man “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). www.patoisnola. com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare presented

with contemporary flare. Top picks include the pakoda choti, roti sathi and any of the crispy dosa on the brunch menu. $$ D (Tu-Sa); Br (Su). www.saffronnola.com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

THE GUIDE

Shopping

Foodie Finds

The Hola Trinity

Culinary collector? Get ready to fill up. NOLA Boards (p. 37) caters to home cooks with its handcrafted cutting and serving boards, while Crescent City Cooks (p. 48) charms with SeaGems’ VooDoo Collection of platters and toothpick holders. The New Orleans School of Cooking (p. 48) and Roux Royale (p. 37) serve up a wide array of how-to tomes by leading local chefs, as does Kitchen Witch (p. 32) with its selection of vintage volumes. Retro fans should also seek out Seasoned (3824 Dryades St., 860.604.4650), a small shop packed with “experienced” cookware, and Lucullus (p. 42), the nation’s first culinary antiques boutique.

Red beans and rice has been a Monday must-have for generations of New Orleanians. Now the iconic dish has become a daily snack, thanks to Hola Nola’s Red Beans & Rice Chips, which combine Camellia beans with rice and Crystal hot sauce. Grab a bag at Rouses (p. 35), Whole Foods (p. 35) and other area grocers.

Clothing

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare and

BILLY REID Award-winning designer

secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. www.beckhamsbookshop.com. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 KITCHEN WITCH New, used and vintage

cookbooks are on the menu at this charming shop geared to foodies. Speical emphasis is placed on hard-to-find Southern titles and rare volumns devoted to Creole and Cajun cuisine. www.kwcookbooks.com. 1452 Broad St., 504.528.8382. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos are also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www.louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings.

Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

There’s a lot more going on this month.

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Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 PERLIS Mudbug season lasts year-round at Perlis,

purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. The place for classic seersucker suits. www.perlis.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.523.6681. Map 3, G5; 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661. Map 1, D4 TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line

of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success? Eco-conscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. www.tascperformance.com. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4

Gifts & Collectibles BOTTOM OF THE CUP In addition to psychic read-

ings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop

offers a variety of teas and accessories.

Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. www. bottomofthecup.com. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4

BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical

French Quarter emporium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 HUNDRED ACREAt this friendly design studio

and shop the well-curated stock runs the gamut, from New Orleans-themed collectibles and fun gift items to cool jewelry and home accents. www. hundredacredesign.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 101, 504.313.3050. Map 3, G5 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures.

New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.littletoyshopnola.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5

“MAKIN’ GROCERIES,” a local expression for visiting the supermarket, is a derivation of the French phrase “faire son marché,” which means “to do one’s shopping.”

32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

(LEFT) ©NOLA BOARDS; (RIGHT) ©HOLA NOLA

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 32

Clothing........................................................................................................ 32 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 34 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 35 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 35 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 36 Home & Garden.................................................................................... 36 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 37 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 37 Shoes............................................................................................................... 38 Special Services...................................................................................... 38

St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4

Gifts & Collectibles BOTTOM OF THE CUP In addition to psychic read-

ings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories. Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. www.bottomofthecup.com. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4 BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 HUNDRED ACREAt this friendly design studio

and shop the well-curated stock runs the gamut, from New Orleans-themed collectibles and fun gift items to cool jewelry and home accents. www.

34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

SHOPPING

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 32

Clothing........................................................................................................ 32 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 32 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 35 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 36 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 36 Home & Garden.................................................................................... 37 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 37 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 38 Shoes............................................................................................................... 38 Special Services...................................................................................... 38

PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume. com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4

Gourmet Food & Spirits KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.891.1026. Map 1, D4 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4; 4500 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.7910.; 400 N. Carrollton Ave, 504.488.2129.

VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.WINE. Map 3, F4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 35

THE GUIDE

ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO AND GALLERY

Hats & Accessories FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

A short ferry ride across the Mississippi River to historic Algiers Point affords a rare opportunity to see masters of

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4

glassblowing working at their craft.

GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3

One of the largest glass galleries in the South. We have the largest selection of locallymade glass in New Orleans New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival Weekend #1 ONLY! April 27-29

MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2525. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803. Map 1, D4

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME“The oldest perfumer

in the South” lives on thanks to her great grandnephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines, such as Ormond Jayne, Memo and Eight & Bob, are featured. www.madameaucoinperfume.com. 608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975. Map 3, F4

Contemporary Crafts Section

Or visit us online www.rosetreegallery.com 15% off website prices Enter: where18 at checkout 446 Vallette St., New Orleans, LA 70114 504.366.3602 • 888.ROSETREE (767.3873) Studio hours M-F 10:00-4:00; Saturdays call for appointment

GO > Visit the new website from Where Magazine.

THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

New collection, colorful stones!

Starting at only $159

635 St. Peter St. ı 504.529.3001 w w w . b i j o u n o l a . c o m

SHOPPING

Home & Garden HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5525 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

BRING NEW ORLEANS HOME S T E R L I N G S I LV E R J E W E L R Y INSPIRED BY NEW ORLE ANS

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.516.2601. Map 3, G4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. https://shoprouxroyale.com. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

719 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70116 504.522.9222

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. artandeyesneworleansla.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 BIJOU NOLA A small shop big on handcrafted

© 2018 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved

designs by local and international artists. Designs accented with gemstones in 14-kt. gold, sterling silver, stainless steel and titanium are featured. www.bijounola.com. 635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001. Map 3, G4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,

1, 2, & 3 Bedroom Condominiums Unparalleled vistas and panoramic views from your private balcony or courtyard.

The main courtyard features two fire pits and a fabulous 50’ water feature. Rooftop amenity deck with dual hot tubs, heated swimming pool, sundeck, and designer BBQ station. Other amenities include an onsite fitness center and smart door locks that can be opened remotely from anywhere in the world allowing your friends and guests to access even when you are not home.

Prices starting at $499,000 Covered, secure, on-site parking available EARL WEBER & ASSOCIATES 917 CONTI STREET, NEW ORLEANS, LA, 70112 (504) 528-8090, info@webercondos.com, www.lacirecondos.com

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop.

As its name suggests, fleurs-de-lis are prominent. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-

nered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 PORTER LYONSJewelry designer Ashley Lyons is

a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-andmortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 37

THE GUIDE

Malls/Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2

AROUND THE bea SQUARE bea

Experience the Charm of the Historic French Quarter a

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THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Lo-

cated along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace. com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Shoes CHARLESTON SHOE CO.This national retailer’s

“cobblestones to cocktails shoe” designs are the perfect fit for on-the-go women who want to stay comfortable and stylish all day long. www. charlestonshoeco.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 102, 855.996.7462. Map 3, G5; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 855.996.7463. Map 3, E5 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. www.shoebedousa.com.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services LA CIRE CONDOMINIUMSWhat was once a wax

museum is now a state-of-the-art condo complex.

The 16 units feature new construction melded with century-old exposed brick, private terraces and covered parking. The rooftop deck offers killer views, a heated pool and two hot tubs. www. lacirecondos.com. 917 Conti St., 504.528.8090 ext.

1. Map 3, F3 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 THE WILKINSONJust off Jackson Square, this

complex features one- and two-bedroom luxury apartments with high ceilings, walk-in closets and top-of-the-line appliances. The pet-friendly property also offers a doorman, controlled entry access and corporate housing. www.thewilkinsonat519. com. 519 WIlkinson St., 504.218.8298. Map 3, G5

38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

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THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques

Julia Street Scene

An Eye for Eats

Julia Street jumps May 5 with the annual Jammin’ on Julia block party taking over the 300-700 blocks, from 6 to 10:30 pm. Galleries along the stretch extend hours, while live bands perform and food and drink vendors serve up edible art. Highlights include Paul Villinski’s butterfly installations and Carlton Scott Sturgill’s floral sculptures fashioned from vintage wedding gowns (shown) at Jonathan Ferrara Gallery (p. 39), John Alexander’s naturalist paintings at Arthur Roger Gallery (p. 39), Benjamin Shamback’s still lifes and landscapes at LeMieux Galleries (p. 39) and Deborah Pelias’ repeat-pattern paintings at Boyd Satellite Gallery (p. 39). For details, visit artsdistictneworleans.com.

As obsessed with food and drink as New Orleans is, it only makes sense that photographer Nathan Myhrvold should open his Modernist Cuisine Gallery (p. 42) here. The former Microsoft chief technology officer takes a scientific approach to food photography, which has earned him a James Beard Award and a global foodie following.

Central Business/ Warehouse District ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5

(LEFT) ©JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY; (RIGHT) ©MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY

BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contem-

porary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are featured. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 GEORGE SCHMIDT GALLERY New Orleans history

and culture (Mardi Gras, jazz, Storyville) is the primary focus of local artist Schmidt’s richly painted classical works, which are held in numerous public and private collections around the world. www.

georgeschmidt.com. 626 Julia St., 504.592.0206. Map 3, C5 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This

There’s a lot more going on this month.

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wheretraveler.com

gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured. www.martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASSWORKS AND PRINTMAKING STUDIO This working artists’ stu-

dio features free demonstrations by local master crafters in blown glass, printmaking and fine silver.

Designs made in the studio are on display—and for sale—in the front showroom. How-to classes are also offered. www.neworleansglassworks.com. 727 Magazine St., 504.529.7277. Map 3, C6 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working

in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe Zammit-Lucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com.

454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6

SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculpture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ pre-

eminent exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www. stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery. com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Charles Thysell and Patterson &

FROM 1872 TO 1873 , artist Edgar Degas resided with relatives at 2306 Esplanade Avenue, where he is believed to have first dabbled in Impressionism. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 39

THE GUIDE

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 39

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 39 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................42 Collectives.....................................................................................................44 Other Locations.......................................................................................45

Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEE GALLERIES This contemporary space is

home to local artist Martin LaBorde’s beloved “Bodo” paintings, Diego Lukezic’s “Tango Dog” sculpture and Ray Cole’s hand-painted silk wall hangings. www.beegalleries.com. 319 Chartres St., 504.587.7117. Map 3, F4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4 BRASS MONKEY This tiny storefront offers one

of the largest selections of Limoges boxes in the Quarter, as well as antique walking sticks and other collectible curios. https://www.facebook.com/TheBrass-Monkey-New-Orleans-225156760970188/.

407 Royal St., 504.561.0688. Map 3, F4 CALICHE & PAO GALLERY Caliche and Pao’s

studio and showroom is home to the husbandand-wife team’s vivid, thickly textured oil paintings of local architecture. 312 Royal St., 504.588.2846. Map 3, F4 CALLAN FINE ART Specializing in fine European

paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery features museum-quality examples from the academic, Barbizon, impressionistic and post-impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here.

40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 CREASON’S FINE ART GALLERY Here, artist-owner

Greg Creason’s vibrant “modern art with a traditional flair” shares wall space with with contemporary works by Darrell George, Tracy Jarmon, Mary Pat Wallen and others. www.creasonsfineart.com.

831 Chartres St., 504.345.2243. Map 3, H4 ELLIOTT GALLERY Fine contemporary and modern

art from world-renowned artists is the standard here. Artists represented include Theo Tobiasse, James Coignard, Max Papart, Nissan Engel, Garrick Yrondi, David Schneuer, Petra Seipel, Picasso, Miró and Chagall. www.elliottgallery.com. 540 Royal St., 504.523.3554. Map 3, G4 FISCHERGAMBINO An eclectic shop specializing

in fine lighting fixtures, as well as works by artists including Doug Anderson and Laney Oxman (whose work has been displayed at the White House). www.lightingneworleans.com; www. fischergambinoneworleans.com. 637 Royal St., 504.524.9067. Map 3, G4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 FUNERAL GALLERY Offbeat illustrations, macabre

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.funeralgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 GALLERY RINARD This contemporary gallery

features colorful originals and limited-edition serigraphs by artist-owner Matt Rinard, as well as Robert Guthrie’s watercolors and whimsical pet portraiture by Georg Williams. galleryrinard.com/.

611 Royal St., 504.522.6536. Map 3, H4 GRAPHITE GALLERYSeeking something cutting-

edge and cool? This is the place. Works by emerg-

ing and mid-career artists from around the globe, ranging from paintings to sculpture, are the draw at this contemporary space, which also features upand-coming local talents. www.graphitenola.com.

936 Royal St., 504.565.3739. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. Map 3, F4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation,

family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. www.cohenantiques.com. 437 Royal St., 504.522.3305. Map 3, F4 JAMIE HAYES GALLERY The colorful works of artist

and children’s book author Hayes have been said to capture “the true spirit of New Orleans,” and acquired by such famous collectors as Robin Williams, k.d. lang and Muhammad Ali. Original paintings, prints and fun gift items are featured. www. jamiehayes.com. 617 Chartres St., 504.596.2344 ; Map 3, G4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KEZIC GALLERY Diego Lukezic is triple talented.

Perhaps best known for his popular “Tango Dog” series, the local artist also creates New Orleans architectural images using the pseudonym “Martin Luke” and 4D florals as “Kezic.” www.kezic.com.

337 Royal St., 504.298.1096. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals in

international oil paintings from the 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose,

THE GUIDE

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MARTIN WELCH ART Martin “the Crab Man” Welch

has been capturing crustaceans on canvas since 2002. His brightly hued, sea-themed works have been showcased at the New Orleans Museum of Art as well as on the HBO series “Treme.” www.martinwelchart.com. 223 Dauphine St., 504.388.4240. Map 3, F3 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photog-

rapher Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques.

Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. www.modernistcuisinegallery. com. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map3, F4 MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com.

411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NAGHI’S From rare objects gathered from around

the world to original jewelry crafted on site, Naghi’s showroom is full of fascinating items. Specializing in Judaica, the shop has an extensive collection of antique silver and family heirlooms. www.naghis. com. 633 Royal St., 504.586.8373. Map 3, G4; 800 Royal St., 504.654.1940. Map 3, G4; 637 Canal St., 504.585.5700. Map 3, E4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. Originals, giclées and prints are offered, along with live-painting event services. www.artgallerynola.com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4 PENNINGTON FINE ARTWith no formal training,

Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others at Boston’s Museum of Fine Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. www.penningtonart.com. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4 PHOTO WORKS This gallery showcases the work of

photographer Louis Sahuc, known for his dramatic shots of the city, which have been called “the quintessential images of New Orleans.” Sahuc specializes in black-and-white, but also creates vivid color prints. www.photoworksneworleans.com. 521 St. Ann St., 504.593.9090. Map 3, G5 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 SCENE BY RHYS“New Orleans music inked into

art,” is the adage of artist Emilie Rhys, who you’ll likely spot sketching away in a local club. Like her legendary father, Noel Rockmore, known for his Preservation Hall paintings during the 1960s, Rhys captures the beat of the city through portraits of its musicians. www.scenebyrhys.com. 708 Toulouse St., 504.258.5842. Map3, G4 SONIAT ANTIQUES Architectural Digest, Town and

Country and Art & Antiques have all featured this gallery. French painted furniture (18th- and 19thcentury), as well as Italian pieces, can be found in this collection. www.soniatantiques.com. 1130 Chartres St., 504.212.0200. Map 3, I4 TANNER GALLERIES & STUDIO Home to local

artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.”

Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 THE ARTIST’S STUDIO Home to artist Harriette

Prevatte’s detailed depictions of second-line parades and local street musicians. 604 Chartres St., 504.267.1962. Map 3, G4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec.

Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 AS YOU LIKE IT SILVER SHOP This shop stocks silver

flatware in hundreds of active and inactive patterns to complete an existing set or begin a new one.

Browse among tea services, goblets and more. www.asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. 3033 Magazine St., 504.897.6915. Map 1, D4 B.FOS GALLERY“I gather inspiration from all

corners of this wild, beautiful and colorful city,” says local artist Becky Fos, which is reflected in her vibrant oil works. Using her palette and fingers, Fos captures everything from pelicans and crawfish to musicians and Carnival parades. www.beckyfos. com. 2138 Magazine St., 504.544.2967. Map 1, D4 BRITISH ANTIQUES A dash of Old England in the

heart of Uptown New Orleans. This showplace of English, French and Asian antiques also offers sophisticated gift items and accessories for the home. 5415 Magazine St., 504.895.3716. Map 1, D4 CAROL ROBINSON GALLERY Spotlighting local

and national artists such as Jere Allen, Karen Jacobs and Michael Yankowski, this gallery showcases paintings, sculpture and ceramics. https:// carolrobinsongallery.net. 840 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.6130. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 FRENCHY GALLERY Art of the moment takes on

new meaning in the hands of Randy Leo Frechette, who captures moments on canvas as they unfold.

From music fests to sporting events to Carnival parades, you’ll find the real-time artist fast at work among the crowds. www.frenchylive.com. 8314 Oak St., 504.861.7595. Map 1, C3 GARDEN DISTRICT GALLERY This gallery, located

near Commander’s Palace restaurant, features rotating exhibits by local, regional and national artists. www.gardendistrictgallery.com. 1332 Washington Ave., 504.891.3032. Map 1, D4 GUTHRIE CONTEMPORARY GALLERY Paintings,

photography and sculpture by both national and international artists is the focus here. www. guthriecontemporary.com. 3815 Magazine St., 504.897.2688. Map 1, D4 KEVIN STONE ANTIQUES This respected dealer

scours European estate sales for top-quality antiques, with an emphasis on unusual 18thand 19th-century items from France and Italy.

The inventory here runs the gamut from fine furnishings to decorative accessories. www. kevinstoneantiques.com. 3420 Magazine St., 504.891.8282. Map 1, D4 NEW ORLEANS PHOTO ALLIANCE GALLERY This

photography collective strives to stimulate “artistic growth while preserving the rich and diverse photographic culture of New Orleans and the southern region” through rotating monthly exhibits. www.

THE GUIDE

neworleansphotoalliance.org. 1111 St. Mary St., 504.513.8030. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 STUDIO SOLITARIO Monet, Hopper, Sargent:

Solitario’s artistic influences are evident in his stunning coastal landscapes and still-life studies.

Counted among the Ogden Museum’s permanent collection, his works are also available for purchase at his Uptown gallery. www.billysolitario.com. 4531 Magazine St., 504.905.4175. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 THE SPIELMAN COMPANY Photographer David

Spielman is known for his black-and-white takes of famous Southern scribes, and for chronicling the city in the days after Katrina. His works are found at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art...and at his Garden District gallery. www.davidspielman.com.

2727 Prytania St., 504.899.7670. Map 1, D4 THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O This innovative de-

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of designers. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2111. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4 ZACK SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY STUDIO If you’ve

ever attended the French Quarter Festival, chances are you’ve spotted Smith and his camera standing out from the crowd. Prints of his fine art images are offered, in addition to photography workshops. www.zacksmith.com. 4514 Magazine St., 504.251.7745. Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for

undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works—oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks—by dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local craft44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

6 17 B i e n v i l l e S t r e e t

New Orleans

Sun–Wed: 10–6 | Thu–Sat: 10–9 michalopoulos .com

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

ers specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 GREAT ARTISTS COLLECTIVE Works by more than

20 local artists, who dabble in everything from glass-blowing and textile-making to photography and jewelry, are showcased at this French Quarter collective. www.greatartistscollective.com. 815 Royal St., 504.525.8190. Map 3, H4 JACKSON SQUARE ART COLLECTIVE For more than

five decades, artists have been gathering around Jackson Square’s black iron fence, exposing their art to the public and the public to their art. One of the oldest active art colonies in the nation, the collective counts numerous artists displaying their works daily. Map 3, G5 LA GUILDThis showcase of juried craft artisans

from around the state and region features works in a wide range of media, from glass and wood to metal and clay. www.louisianacrafts.org.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.592.7633. Map 3, E5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. 2028 Magazine St., 504.523.7945. Map 1, D4

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey, Harry Shearer and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net. 3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKETThis after-dark art mart

takes place in a converted auto body shop (aka the Art Garage). From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps to folk art and photography, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares, Th-Sa, 8 pm-1 am. www.frenchmenartmarket.com. 2231 St. Claude Ave., 504.717.0750. Map 3, J5 ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8 STUDIO BE Breakout local artist Brandan Odums’

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

giant graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space in the Bywater neighborhood. The evocative collection explores African-American life, from the Civil Rights era to the Black Lives Matter movement, through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm. www.ephemeraleternal.com. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3 WHERE Y’ART Love New Orleans art but don’t

623 royAL street

French quArter

new orLeAns

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

have time to fully explore all of the city’s many galleries? Along with a brick-and-mortar space in the Marigny neighborhood, this local incubator offers a 24/7 virtual gallery featuring more than 100 area artists. www.whereyart.net. 1901 Royal St., 504.325.5672. Map 3, J4

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 45

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Don’t m this UN iss I interna QUE tional exhibit ion!

BILLY SOLITARIO F INE A RT

THE HI S TO R I C NE W O R LE AN S CO LLE C TI O N P R E S E NT S

ew Orleans

4531 Magazine St. New Orleans, LA 70115 (504) 919-9346 billysolitario.com @billysolitarioart

THE FOUNDING ERA

A free exhibition on view through May 27, 2018 533 Royal Street in the French Quarter Tuesday–Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

Sunday, 10:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

Explore the kaleidoscopic array of cultures that gave rise to one of North America’s most diverse cities. In this original exhibition commemorating the city’s tricentennial, rare artifacts, early maps and plans, archaeological finds, and visual art from THNOC’s holdings and from institutions across Europe and North America come together to tell the stories of New Orleans’s early days.

Join us at these related events: SATURDAY, MAY ��, ��� P.M. “Traditional Herbal Remedies in the African American Community” An afternoon of demonstrations by Eddie Boyd, former faculty member of the University of Michigan College of Pharmacy 533 Royal Street TUESDAY, MAY ��, ��� P.M. “The Early French Mapping of Louisiana” A lecture by Dennis Reinhartz, emeritus professor of history at the University of Texas at Arlington 410 Chartres Street | For reservations, email wrc@hnoc.org.

This exhibition is made possible with support from these sponsors.

Follow us!

(504) 523-4662 www.hnoc.org ABOVE: Le Missisipi ou la Louisiane dans l’Amérique Septentrionale (detail); ca. 1720; hand-colored engraving by François Chéreau; THNOC, 1959.210

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4/5/18 4:03 PM

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Entertainment

Music to Your Ears

Ripe for the Pickin’

Missed Jazzfest? Head for the Bayou Boogaloo (thebayouboogaloo.com) May 18-20 along Bayou St. John, where 27 leading local acts perform on four stages while 30-plus area restaurants dish up incredible edibles. The Bayou Country Superfest (bayoucountrysuperfest.com, shown) pulls into the Mercedes-Benz Superdome May 27 with George Strait, Chris Stapleton, Little Big Town, Kacey Musgraves and more, preceded by a free concert (featuring Randy Houser, Michael Ray and Runaway Jane) May 26 at Champions Square.

Or check out the Tremé/7th Ward Arts and Culture Fest (treme7thwardcd.org), which offers performances by Kermit Ruffins and other neighborhood notables May 26-27.

The Los Angeles-based Fallen Fruit art team has turned the Newcomb Art Museum (p.

54) into one giant work with its “Empire” installation. Made up of 300 objects culled from Tulane’s archives, the wide-ranging assemblage charts the city’s 300-year evolution, touching on everything from colonialism and slavery to trade and tourism.

Attractions & Landmarks

(LEFT) ©GERARD MOUTON III/BAYOU COUNTRY SUPERFEST; (RIGHT) ©NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to

insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

Chartres streets, and stroll along this 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon 1.4-mile riverfront promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter to the Bywater Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. wheretraveler.com neighborhood, the park offers jogging and $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 biking paths, a dog run and picture-perfect ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from picnic areas. www.crescentparknola.

St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.audubonorg. Map 3, J6 institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of as a native American trading post. Along with the dead” act as windows on the past, offering inhomegrown specialties, the market also features a sight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans Place, 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is of her works there. Many are located in high-crime located at the foot of Canal Street. This mamareas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, moth pleasure palace features five New Orleansday or night. themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 CINEBARRE CANAL PLACE 9 This state-of-the-art table games, live entertainment and a lavish movie theater offers nine separate screens, along buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., with in-seat dining from its in-house café and bar.

504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 www.thetheatres.com. The Shops at Canal Place, JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 originally known as Place d’Armes, and was reCITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush named to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 PRESERVE On this 23,000-acre area of protected CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevaand alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden tor or climb the arching footbridge at Piety and walkways allow you to explore deep into the

THOSE FIREWORK DISPLAYS May 6 and 25? They’re part of New Orleans’ year-long 300th-annivesary celebration. For more tricentennial-related events, visit 2018nola.com. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 47

THE GUIDE

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Guidelines

providing instruction to local musicians, recordings studios and a state-of-the-art performance space. www.jazzandheritagecenter.org. 1205 N. Rampart St., 504.558.6100. 504.558.6100.. Map 3, G3

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MARKET Part concert hall/

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 69-71.

NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................47

Cooking Classes .....................................................................................48 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................48 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 52 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 54 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 56

swamp. www.nps.gov/jela. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882.

LAFITTE GREENWAYThis 2.6-mile bike and pedes-

trian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park.

The ADA-compliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. www.lafittegreenway.org. . Map 3, F2 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3

coffee shop/community center, this multifaceted facility throws the spotlight on both the city’s jazz legends and rising stars. phnojm.org. 1436 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.371.5849. Map 1, D3 pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral. org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 PONTALBA BUILDINGS Erected in 1851, the stately

red-brick townhouses flanking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States.

Inspired by the Palais-Royal and the Place des Vosges in Paris, the twin buildings feature apartments upstairs, retail spaces below and ornate cast-iron galleries. Map 3, G5 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4

NEW ORLEANS BOTANICAL & TRAIN GARDENS

WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

City Park’s beautiful Botanical Gardens feature more than 2,000 tropical and subtropical plants, along with the Historic Train Garden, a miniature railroad exhibit with landmarks constructed of botanical matter. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm; train garden, weekends only. $8 adults, $4 children. www.neworleanscitypark.com. Victory Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

NEW ORLEANS FAIR GROUNDS RACE COURSE In

operation since 1872, this ranks as the nation’s third-oldest Thoroughbred race course.

The site serves as home base for the annual New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. www. fairgroundsracecourse.com. 1751 Gentilly Blvd., 504.944.5515. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE CENTER Housed

in a former funeral home, this facility breathes new life into New Orleans jazz with seven classrooms 48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

Cooking Classes CRESCENT CITY COOKS! Learn the secrets

of New Orleans-style cuisine from chefs who conduct two-hour classes daily (10 am), and taste the results afterward during lunch; prices vary.

Hands-on classes are also offered, along with a large selection of spices and culinary utensils. www.crescentcitycooks.com. 201 Chartres St., 504.529.1600. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also

available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5

Cruises & Tours A BICYCLE NAMED DESIRE Located at the address

of Stanley and Stella Kowalski’s fictional residence, this bike shop (an offshoot of Confederacy of Cruisers) provides “rentals for the independent traveler.”

Half, full, multi-day and weekly rates are offered. www.abicyclenameddesire.com. 632 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.345.8966. Map 3, J5 AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake

Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with moonlight and twilight outings. Transportation available; prices vary. www.canoeandtrail.com.

504.233.0686.

CELEBRATION DISTILLATION TOURS The mak-

ers of Old New Orleans Rum offer tours of their facility—the oldest premium distillery continually operating in the United States—M-Sa (noon, 2 and 4 pm) and Su (2 and 4 pm). Get a taste of the distillation process...and of the company’s awardwinning spirits. Reservations recommended. Grab a cab. $15; 21+ only. www.oldneworleansrum.com.

2815 Frenchmen St., 504.945.9400. Map 1, E2 CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. www. celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SEGWAY TOURS Why walk when you can

glide? Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. Private excursions are also available. www.citysegwaytours.com. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered, along with customized bike tours. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7

THE GUIDE

DESTINATION KITCHENThese deliciously fun tours

provide a real taste of New Orleans. A variety of culinary and cocktail excursions are offered, along with French Quarter and Garden District walking tours. Custom outings are also available. www. destination-kitchen.com. 885.353.6634.

DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280.

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 FRENCH QUARTOUR KIDS These guided walks

take children on a journey back in time through the streets of the historic Vieux Carré. Tours offered daily and by appointment; check wesite for current schedule. Call for reservations and locations. www. frenchquartourkids.com. 504.975.5355.

FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour

walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. $20 adults, $15 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. www.friendsofthecabildo.org. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2.25 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs.

Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs.

Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com.

400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am and 1:15 pm from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.).

Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 and

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

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7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www. hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

KAYAKITIYAT Kayak tours of beautiful Bayou

St. John, which cuts a scenic swatch through the midsection of the city, are offered daily; call for launch times. $40/two hours; $65/four hours. Combine cruisers and kayaks; $110. www. kayakitiyat.com. (Bayou St. John tours launch across from 3494 Esplanade Ave.) 985.778.5034 ; 512.964.9499. Map 1, D2 LAFITTE’S BARATARIA MUSEUM & WETLAND TRACE Charting the 200-year backstory of the

town of Jean Lafitte, this museum explores the fishing village’s history and pirate lore through a variety of multimedia exhibits while also examining the effects of coastal erosion. A nature trail leads visitors through a mile and a half of cypress swamp. $6 adults, $3 seniors/military. www.townofjeanlafitte.com. 4917 City Park Drive, 504.689.7009.

NEW ORLEANS ELECTRIC CARSToo hot to hoof it

on foot? Tool around in one of these cool rentals instead. The easy-to-operate, all-electric vehicles seat up to six passengers. www.neworleanselectriccars.com. 235 Basin St., 504.274.2555. Map 3, F2 NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and

informed at the same time. Guided jogs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized tours are also available.

Groups meet at the corner of Decatur and Barracks streets. www.neworleansjoggingtours.com.

504.858.9988 Map 3, I5 NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOURThese

guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs nightly at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. www.spiritsandspellstour.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5 NOLA GONDOLA A romantic retreat in the heart of

the city. Board the Bella Mae, an authentic Venetian gondola, for a guided glide through City Park’s Big Lake and moss-draped lagoons. Tours are 50 minutes and can accommodate up to six. $90/ couple; $10 per additional passenger. Open daily, 1-8 pm. www.nolagondola.com. Big Lake Trail, City Park, 504.450.4400. Map 1, D2 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and Su at 10 am from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under. Reservations recommended. www. saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR Free

Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 am - 4 pm by Admission

guided daily tours, 9 am-4 pm, except major holidays. www.tabasco.com. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2 VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer

a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontcharw w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

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train and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm. www.vipcitytours.com.

701 Canal St., 504.329.2489. Map 3, E4 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from701 Royal St.; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

WHEEL FUN RENTALS This company offers a

variety of ways to explore City Park. Surrey, chopper, cruiser and tandem bikes are among the many cycles available for hourly rentals, in addition to kayaks, pedal boats, paddle boards and more.

Open daily at 10 am. www.wheelfunrenatals.com.

Big Lake Trail, City Park, 504.300.1289. Map 1, D2

Museums & Exhibits ABITA MYSTERY HOUSE This one requires a car,

but is well worth the price of a rental for outsider art fans. Housed in a former filling station in nearby Abita Springs, artist John Preble’s eccentric sendup of “redneck culture” features offbeat oddities fashioned from more than 50,000 found objects. $3 (free 3 and under). Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. www. abitamysteryhouse.com. 22275 Highway 36, Abita Springs, 985.892.2624. Map 2, F1

The ONLY Non-Profit Touring Organization Dedicated to Cemetery Promotion, Preservation, Restoration & Education.

Join us for walking tours through some of the most fascinating cemeteries in New Orleans. Reserve at SaveOurCemeteries.org or call 504-525-3377.

SaveOurCemeteries.org

AMERICAN ITALIAN MUSEUM This cultural center

pays tribute to the history and contributions of Italian-Americans in Louisiana and the Southeast through a variety of exhibits. $8 adults, $5 seniors/ students, free ages 11 and under. Open M-F, 10 am-4 pm. www.americanitalianculturalcenter.com.

537 S. Peters St., 504.522.7294. Map 3, D6

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away

BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display.

Admission $10; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www. backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 BEAUREGARDKEYES HOUSE This beautifully

restored 1826 villa and garden was the home of Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $9 seniors/ students, $7.50 active military, $4 ages 6-12, under 6 free. www.bkhouse.org. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $10 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. $10; $8 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www. cacno.org. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

Put the power of Where® in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas lived

Savor the aromas of TABASCO® on a factory tour.

during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works. Two-hour tours of the 1852 property, conducted by the artist’s great-grandniece, are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:45 pm, and by appointment. $29. Reservations required. www.degashouse.com. 2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Savor the aromas of TABASCO® on a factory tour.

Feast on the Southern flavors of our new cafeteria-style restaurant, 1868!

Experience

AVERY ISLAND

LOUISIANA

Come to Avery Island for an experience that will delight your senses!

Open Mon-Sun, 9am-4pm | www.TABASCO.com or 1-800-634-9599 ©2016. The TABASCO® marks, bottle, and label designs are registered trademarks and servicemarks exclusively of McIlhenny Company, Avery Island, LA 70513.

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4 GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish

gowns, costumes and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 26 Mardi Gras balls. Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours (nightly, 6-10 pm). www.arnauds. com/about/mardi-gras-museum. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LE MUSÉE DE F.P.C. This museum explores the

history, culture and contributions of New Orleans’ free people of color. Spanning three centuries, exhibits include original manumission documents, 19th-century paintings and an 1864 right-to-vote petition. Open Tu-F, 1-4 pm; weekend tours by appointment. $15 adults, $12 students/groups. www.lemuseedefpc.com. 2236 Esplanade Ave., 504.323.5074. Map 1, D3 LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS Designated a

National Historic Landmark, this 1939 Classical Revival home is modeled after an English country estate, with eight acres of gardens to explore.

Guided tours available daily. $12 adults, $10 seniors, $8 students 11 and older, $5 children, 2 and under and active military with ID free. Open M-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm. www.longuevue.com. 7 Bamboo Road, 504.488.5488. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Children learn

through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans” and “New Orleans: Proud to Call It Home.” Adults/children $8.50. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, noon-4:30 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 Julia St., 504.523.1357. Map 3, C6

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LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: “The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History.”

1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St.)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St.)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Free. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave.)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Presbytère (Jackson Square)–Continuing: “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” and “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond.” For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries” and “Final Mission” an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM

Explore this misunderstood religion through the museum’s artifacts and exhibits. Readings and tours are also offered. $7 adults, $5.50 seniors/ military/college students, $4.50 high school students, $3.50 under 12. Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. www.voodoomuseum.com. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open M-F, 10 am-6 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org.

514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM The Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa, 11 am-4 pm. newcombartmuseum.tulane. edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 54 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free).

Open Fri-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic

Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ first mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $7 students/seniors (65-plus)/National Trust members. www.louisianalandmarks.org. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2 PRESERVATION RESOURCE CENTER The PRC is

an essential stop for lovers of local architecture, and contains a wealth of information on the city’s buildings and neighborhoods. Open M-F, 9 am-5 pm. www.prcno.org. 923 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.7032. Map 3, B7 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10.50; students/ seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. www.southernfood.org. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3

Cocktails ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop

bar, which offers amazing views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9 pm. www.acehotel. com/neworleans/alto. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map3, C5 ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 ATTIKI This hookah bar offers an exotic getaway

without ever leaving the French Quarter. Order a pomegranate cocktail, load the hookah and check out the belly dancers. www.attikineworleans.com.

230 Decatur St., 504.587.3756. Map 3, F5 AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft

beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. www. theavenuepub.com. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3 BAR TONIQUE At this sleek spot, dark woods and

candlelight set the mood for top-shelf cocktails, housemade tonics and an extensive selection of wines by the glass. www.bartonique.com. 820 N. Rampart St., 504.324.6045. Map 3, H3 BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-

school games (Jenga, Skee-ball, air hockey) are the draw...along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry?

Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. barcadianola.com.

601 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6 BARREL PROOF From Japanese Yamazaki to

Kentucky-aged Old Grand-Dad, the top shelf at this hip Lower Garden District spot holds more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. Dig the stuffed bobcat and cowskin rugs. www.barrelproofnola.com. 1201 Magazine St. 504.299.1888 Map 3, A7

BAYOU BEER GARDEN One of the first bona fide

beer gardens in the city, Bayou offers a huge patio with plenty of seating. The beer list is extensive with more than 100 choices on tap and in the bottle or can. www.bayoubeergarden.com. 326 N. Jefferson Davis Parkway, 504.302.9357. Map 1, D3 BAYOU WINE GARDENThis casual Mid-City spot

offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. Cheese and charcuterie boards are also available, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. www.bayouwinegarden.com. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3 THE BULLDOG The patio is the way to go at

this British-themed pub, where the fountain is fashioned from dozens of old beer taps. Only fitting given the dog-friendly tavern’s 48-plus draft beers and additional 100 varieties offered by the bottle. www.draftfreak.com. 3236 Magazine St., 504.891.1516. Map 1, D4; 5135 Canal Blvd., 504.488.4191. Map 1, D2 COOP’S PLACE Coop’s is a local mix of billiards,

tattoos, a great jukebox and some ambitious, delicious bar cuisine, all in a lively, no-kids-allowed atmosphere. www.coopsplace.net. 1109 Decatur St., 504.525.9053. Map 3, I5 COURTYARD BREWERY Beer lovers will fall for

the small batches with big taste at this Lower Garden District micro-micro brewery. A snack with your brew? Check the rotating schedule of food trucks. www.courtyardbrewing.com. 1020 Erato St. Map 3, A7 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only

brewpub. Microbrews, nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5 CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed

in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-plus

bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from grilled octopus to caviar and potato chips. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play—

the author once stayed here—this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers.

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a mas-

sive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www. nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such

bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehouse.com. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 PATRICK’S BAR VIN Krewe of Cork founder and

all-around grape guy Patrick Van Hoorebeek’s namesake wine bar offers dozens of vintages by the glass and even more by the bottle. Cocktails, cheeses and charcuterie are also served. www.patricksbarvin.com. 730 Bienville St., 504.200.3180. Map 3, F4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

10 A.M. UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 R BAR This unpretentious Faubourg Marigny

watering hole is a favorite among locals and visitors who happen by during the free Friday seafood boils. Drop in on Mondays for a haircut—and a shot. www.royalstreetinn.com. 1431 Royal St., 504.948.7499. Map 3, J4 RICK’S CABARET This 18,000-sq.-ft. venue—named

one of “America’s Best Strip Clubs” by Playboy— offers two floors, a great sound system and a private VIP section. www.iknowrick.com. 315 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, F4 RICK’S SPORTING SALOON The traditional sports

We have DIRECTV NBA league pass Riverside Dining SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER Across from Harrah’s Casino next to Hilton Hotel

rab a Come g fore drink be ut to o heading est.

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21 47" LG LCD T.V.’s Gourmet Burgers, Wings, Gourmet Pizzas, Salads & Po-Boys

504-247-9265 • www.poppystimeoutsportsbar.com

bar gets kicked up several notches at this Bourbon Street hot spot, which scores extra points with its handsome decor and gorgeous entertainers.

The club features 10 high-definition TVs, along with 10 beers on draft, each kept at a cool 32 degrees. www.ricks-saloon.com/. 522 Bourbon St., 504.552.2510. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 SECOND LINE BREWING Housed in a repurposed

industrial space, this brewery brings hoppy goodness to the Mid-City neighborhood. Flagship ales, growlers and test brews, as well as a rotating cast of food trucks, can be found daily in its outdoor beer garden. www.secondlinebrewing.com. 433 N Bernadotte St., 504.248.8979. Map 1, D2 TIKI TOLTECA A bit of the tropics on the edge

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THE GUIDE

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heads grace the bar, which serves up mai tais, zombies and Scorpion Bowls daily. www.tikitolteca.com. 301 N. Decatur St. (inside Felipe’s), 504.288.8226. Map 3, F5 URBAN SOUTH BREWING Housed in a 19th-century

warehouse, this modern-minded brewery is out to “re-establish New Orleans as the beer capital of the South.” Its kid-friendly taproom (yes, you read right) features a variety of brews crafted on-site. www.urbansouthbrewery.com. 1645 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.267.4852. Map 1, E4

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. Steamy windows face the nightlife bustle of Frenchmen Street and the benches outside make ideal perches for people-watching. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BALCONY MUSIC CLUB Visitors in search of a

“regular” kind of local hangout need look no further than this low-key French Quarter venue, which boasts two bars, great draft beer, pool, darts and nightly live music. www.balconymusicclub.com.

1331 Decatur St., 504.599.7770. Map 3, I5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CAFÉ NEGRIL This intimate club features crowd-

pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae (Fridays), and an island-themed atmosphere that sets a mellow vibe. While the dance floor fills up, the open kitchen turns out tacos, burritos and quesadillas. https://www.cafenegrilnola. com. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.383.5131. Map 3, J5 CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone,

this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. Live music nightly. www.hotelmonteleone.com. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4 CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the

Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 844.244.2543. Map 1, D3 CIRCLE BAR This tiny Lee Circle bar draws a loyal

crowd of neighborhood night crawlers, habitual hipsters and tourists looking for a slice of local life.

Great jukebox; live music starts around 10 pm. www.circlebarneworleans.com. 1032 St. Charles Ave., 504.588.2616. Map 3, B6 COLUMNS BAR This stately Victorian on St. Charles

Avenue is a choice hangout for Uptowners. Watch the streetcar roll past while sipping a cocktail on the front porch, or relax in the 19th-century splendor of the indoor bar. Live music nightly. www.thecolumns.com. 3811 St. Charles Ave., 504.899.9308. Map 1, D4 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5

56 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape

inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 FRITZEL’S EUROPEAN JAZZ PUB A German jazz

club? Only in New Orleans. Traditional jazz by local musicians as well as visiting European bands is featured nightly. www.fritzelsjazz.net. 733 Bourbon St., 504.586.4800. Map 3, H4 GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film

screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown music venue. A rotating cast of food trucks are available and restaurants are within walking distance. www.gasagasa.com. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3 HIHO LOUNGE This legendary dive got a post-

Katrina makeover, complete with an expanded stage and new sound system. But thankfully the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever.

Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque. www.hiholounge.net. 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 HOWLIN’ WOLF This locally owned and operated

club features low cover charges and low attitude.

Acts include both local favorites and big names; the music ranges from punk to straight-ahead rock. www.thehowlinwolf.com. 907 S. Peters St., 504.529.5844. Map 3, C7 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LE BON TEMPS ROULÉ A great Uptown hangout,

featuring imported beers and casual dining (free oysters on Fridays, in season). Live music is performed on the stage they call the “House of Dues.” https://lbtrnola.com. 4801 Magazine St., 504.895.8117. Map 1, D4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz

landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene.

The recently renovated supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAISON This Frenchmen Street club offers a

full-service restaurant, two floors, three bars, an interior wraparound balcony and nightly live entertainment, ranging from jazz to R&B to hip-hop. www.maisonfrenchmen.com. 508 Frenchmen St., 504.371.5543. Map 3, J5 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 MUSIC BOX VILLAGE Make your own kind of music

at this whimsical wonderland, where ramshackle

huts double as instruments. The one-of-a-kind venue also hosts live performances. www.musicboxvillage.com. 4557 N. Rampart St.. Map 1, E3 ONE EYED JACKS Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-

burlesque: this French Quarter swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. www.oneeyedjacks.net. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4 PALM COURT JAZZ CAFÉ This excellent venue

for traditional live jazz is a favorite of locals in the know and well-informed visitors. Creole dining is also featured. www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com. 1204 Decatur St., 504.525.0200. Map 3, I5 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS One of downtown’s

hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. www.republicnola.com. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6 ROCK ‘N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in

a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. Check out swing night on Wednesdays.

Highly recommended. www.rockandbowl.com.

3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700. Map 1, D3 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of

Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYSThis hip venue in the über-hip Ace

Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable

nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic,

always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4 VAUGHAN’S LOUNGE This tumbledown dive deep

in the Bywater neighborhood gets jam-packed during its legendary Thursday night jam sessions, now headlined by Corey Henry & the Treme Funktet. Well worth the price of a cab. 800 Lesseps St., 504.947.5562. Map 1, E3

THE GUIDE

Navigate Something Borrowed, Something Blue

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNAIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2019.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

©JASON COHEN

How best to navigate around New Orleans and squeeze in a little exercise at the same time? On one of the 700-plus Blue Bikes that recently hit the streets.

The city’s new municipal bicycle-sharing program, in partnership with Blue Cross/ Blue Shield of Louisiana (hence their color), offers an easy alternative to Uber with dozens of rental/drop-off stations stretching from the French Quarter to City Park and between the Bywater and Garden District neighborhoods. Riders register on the Blue Bikes website or app, where they receive account and pin numbers needed to unlock the bikes, which rent for $8 an hour and can be dropped off at any rack station citywide.

For additional information and a map of locations, visit bluebikesnola.com…and get rolling.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index General Information........................................................................... 58 Nearby Destinations............................................................................59 Cajun Country...........................................................................................59 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 59 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 59 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................59 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................59 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 59 Transportation ....................................................................................... 58

CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes and other modern

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map by

Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include the Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts.

Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communi-

ties, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. Vermillion Parish, “the most Cajun place on earth,” draws outdoor enthusiasts with its hunting, fishing and some of the best birding in the country. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory. www.lafayettetravel.com; www.vermillion.org.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com.

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. 800.688.2732; www.houmatravel.com. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

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Between parts of Magazine Street and St. Charles Avenue lies the Garden District and Uptown neighborhoods, perhaps the grandest of New Orleans’ neighborhoods. The Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne-style homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available.

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Ready for Their Close-Ups With their centuries-old oaks, ornate architecture and period-perfect furnishings, Louisiana’s plantations are a Hollywood location scout’s dream. Visit Houmas House, and you’ll see pictures of Bette Davis adorning the bedroom she stayed in while shooting 1964’s “Hush…

Hush, Sweet Charlotte,” which also filmed at picturesque Oak Alley (shown), which you’ll recognize from its star turns in everything from 1984’s “Interview With the Vampire” to Beyoncé’s 2006 “Déjà Vu” video. “Vampire” also shot at Destrehan, along with “12 Years a Slave.”

Scenes from “Slave” were likewise filmed at St. Joseph, which was the setting for 2016’s remake of “Roots” and 2017’s “Mudbound.” Other starring roles include Evergreen (“Django Unchained”), Nottoway (“The Magnificent Seven”) and Felicity (“The Skeleton Key”).

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain.

66 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M AY 2018

©OAK ALLEY PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 66 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 66 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 67 Dining........................................................................................................... 68

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 67

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 68 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 8

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 2 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St RH Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

History Buffs

LGBTQ Travelers

Haunt Hunters

The past is very much present in New Orleans.

In order to fully comprehend the contemporary Crescent City, it helps to brush up on its 300-year backstory. With its hundreds of rare holdings and free exhibits, the (1) Historic New Orleans Collection is an ideal place to start. The crumbling walls at the (2) Napoleon House hint at its early age. A warm muffuletta and an icy Pimm’s Cup in the courtyard make for a picture-perfect NOLA moment.

Hot nights call for cool jazz, and it doesn’t get much cooler than (3) Preservation Hall, which has been preserving the city’s timehonored jazz traditions since 1961. Don’t want to stand or sit on the floor? Call ahead to reserve “Big Shot” seats.

Though no longer clothing-optional, the pool at (1) The Country Club still corrals a crowd, as does its casual fine-dining restaurant. Wear your swimsuit to the raucous Saturday drag brunch, and spend the afternoon poolside with a mixed crowd of locals. Grab a Vieux Carré cocktail and take a spin at the revolving (2) Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone, where Liberace was the first to tickle the ivories and Truman Capote claimed to have been born. When the clubs clear out, the party continues at (3) Clover Grill. Open 24/7, the hangover haven is beloved for its acerbic waiters, greasy burgers cooked under hubcaps, all-day breakfasts and late-night floor shows starring eccentric Bourbon Street characters.

In New Orleans, ghost and cemetery tours aren’t offered only during October but year-round. There are dozens of “cities of the dead” dotting the local landscape, but if you can visit only one, make it St. Louis No. 1 and make it with (1) Save Our Cemeteries, which helps fund tomb restoration. Founded by two modern-day warlocks, (2) Hex: Old World Witchery has outposts in both New Orleans and Salem. Stop in for a spell, and leave a note to a departed loved one on the Witches’ Altar of the Dead. Sure you can purchase loose teas at the (3) Bottom of the Cup, but it’s tea-leaf readings that have drawn psychic searchers to the shop for more than eight decades.

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(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; ©NAPOLEON HOUSE; ©PRESERVATION HALL; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©THE COUNTRY CLUB; ©KERRI MCCAFFETY/HOTEL MONTELEONE; ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT, ALL IMAGES) ©SHAWN FINK

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS