Where Magazine New Orleans Mar 2018

MARCH 2018 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

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CIRQUE DU SOLEIL CREOLE CAFÉS 25 THINGS WE LOVE

COLORFUL CULTURE Mardi Gras Indians, Opera, Food Fests and More

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New Orleans CONTENTS

03.18

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the plan

the guide 20

09 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Noel Minturn Concierge at the Windsor Court Hotel.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus think pink and the Irene's scene.

10 Editor’s Note Revisiting 50 years of Where New Orleans.

XX 30 SHOPPING

12 Hot Dates

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus Big Easy dioramas and something to write home about.

14

XX

35

GALLERIES & ANTIQUES

A citywide gallery crawl.

Plus the pop princess of Magazine Street.

XX

41

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus an architectural revival and the Buku Music + Arts Project.

64 New Orleans Your Way

XX

Curated Crescent City itineraries for first-time visitors, luxury lovers and romantics.

ON THE COVER

50

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Big Chief David

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Montana of the

18

Washitaw Nation Mardi Gras Indians.

CIRQUE DU SOLEIL CREOLE CAFÉS 25 THINGS WE LOVE

©TYALEXANDERPHOTO- COLORFUL CULTURE Mardi Gras Indians, Opera, Food Fests and More

GRAPHY/ISTOCK E~NO-WM_180300_01_Cover.indd 1

2/2/18 1:04 PM

NAVIGATE

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus Blue Bike-sharing.

New Orleans

MARCH 2018 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

ENTERTAINMENT

where now

XX

58

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus a fresh perspective on the past.

14 Center Stage

Jazz great Terence Blanchard's boxing opera.

16 Out + About CONNECT WITH US

Mardi Gras Indians, a month full of food fests and "The Founding Era."

17 Local Flavor

25 things we love about New Orleans.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

Creole comfort, hot dish and St. Joseph Day sweets.

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 61-63

(LEFT) ©YOUSUF KARSH/TENNESSEE WILLIAMS FESTIVAL; (CENTER, TOP) ©KEN HOWARD; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©LORIN GAUDIN

"Corteo" Cirque comes to town, alfresco music, St. Patrick's Day fun, Tennessee Williams Fest and 24 other entertainment ideas to put on your list.

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Noel Minturn Concierge at the Windsor Court Hotel Q: The Stanley and Stella Shouting Contest takes place this month. Name three restaurants worth shouting about.

A: Toups South (p. 22), Saffron NOLA (p. 29) and Gabrielle (p. 28). We are so happy Greg and Mary Sonnier were able to reopen their restaurant so long after Hurricane Katrina.

Q: Where would you send guests to get their Irish on?

A: The Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Day Parade (p. 12). You can feel the Irish in the neighborhood.

Q: What about those in search of St. Joseph altars?

A: The American Italian Museum (p. 46).

Q: And for crawfish?

A: Besides my backyard? Bevi Seafood in Mid-City (236 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.488.7503).

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©CHRIS GRANGER/NOCVB

Q: Hogs for the Cause or the Top Taco Festival, where are we most likely to find you?

A: I would like to say Top Taco, because it looks delicious. But I know I’d probably just end up at Hogs for the Cause because I can ride my bicycle there from my house. Plus Hogs has lots of live music.

Q: What do you love most about New Orleans?

A: The other day I got stuck behind a second-line parade. I was in a rush and mad, but realized this doesn’t happen anywhere else. So I just sat there tapping my foot to the beat. No matter how inconvenienced we might be by a second line, we stop to enjoy it. That’s how we roll!

9

EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY

A LOOK BACK

Where We Were This year marks Where New Orleans’ 50th anniversary. To commemorate the mid-century milestone, we opened our archives, dusted off back issues and throughout 2018 will be revisiting years past. This month we set the wayback machine to 2005.

We started off the year by checking in at the Hotel Monaco (now the Hilton St. Charles) to check out the then-new trend of pet-friendly properties, and ended it rather abruptly in late August with the arrival of an unexpected guest named Katrina. In between we spoke with director Eli Wallach, filmmaker John Waters and others about “America’s greatest playwright” in honor of the 19th annual Tennessee Williams Festival, interviewed 2004 “American Idol” contestant George Huff prior to his first Jazz & Heritage Festival solo appearance and revisited Bourbon Street burlesque clubs.

Tower Records and the Virgin Megastore still rocked the French Quarter, while Alicia Keys, John Legend and Destiny’s Child wowed the Essence Fest crowd. The Go-Go’s rode in the Muses parade, Fats Domino released a live album recorded at Jazzfest 2001 and Morgan Fairchild starred as Mrs. Robinson in a traveling revival of “The Graduate.”

Galatoire’s celebrated its centennial (along with Angelo Brocato’s) and received the James Beard Foundation’s “Outstanding Restaurant” award, a typical Saturday breakfast at Brennan’s served up 800 eggs to 1,500 diners and BACCO offered 10-cent martinis at lunch.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

in the world

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

THE HIS TORIC NE W ORLE ANS COLLEC TION PRESENTS

ew Orleans THE FOUNDING ERA

A free exhibition on view through May 27, 2018 533 Royal Street in the French Quarter A bilingual catalog is available for purchase.

RIGHT: Le commerce que les Indiens du Mexique font avec les François au port de Missisipi (detail); between 1719 and 1721; copperplate engraving with watercolor by FrançoisGérard Jollain; THNOC, 1952.3

Explore the kaleidoscopic array of cultures that gave rise to one of North America’s most diverse cities. Rare artifacts, early maps and plans, archaeological finds, and visual art from THNOC’s holdings and from institutions across Europe and North America come together to tell the stories of New Orleans’s early days.

This exhibition is sponsored in part by

www.hnoc.org (504) 523-4662

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WHERE CALENDAR MARCH

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TOP STOPS

HOT

21 additional events and ideas worth entertaining.

HOUSE OF BLUES Mar. 6: Flogging Molly; Mar. 8: Willie Nelson & Family; Mar. 9: Matisyahu. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583; hob.com

DATES

MARCH 2-4:

Corteo

New Orleanians love a good parade, which makes Corteo, Cirque du Soleil’s new traveling production about a Carnival-like parade dreamt up by a clown, a perfect fit for the Smoothie King Center.

This isn’t your standard circus-atmosphere celebration, however, but a funeral procession. No need to get all gloomy, though. Similar to the city’s second-line traditions, “Corteo” is more life-affirming than depression-inducing, with 50-plus acrobats, aerialists and gymnasts from around the globe bouncing on oversize beds, swinging from giant chandeliers, tiptoeing along tightropes and getting pounded with rubber chickens. As with most Cirque productions, expect a spectacle that will leave you both mesmerized and moved. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

6

"The Phantom of the Opera" caption here Tennessee Williams

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

Great Things Not to Be Missed

1 CONGO SQUARE RHYTHMS FESTIVAL > MARCH 34 African drumming and dance, Mardi Gras Indians, brass bands: This free event celebrates the city’s musical evolution at the site where jazz is said to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann; jazzandheritage.org/congo-square

2 BIANCA DEL RIO > MARCH 3 The acerbic “clown in a gown” lands at the Orpheum Theater with her new stand-up throw-down. Consider yourself warned. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870

3 WEDNESDAY AT THE SQUARE > MARCH 14, 21 & 28 This springtime concert series offers free performances by local standouts, beginning at

12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

5 pm at Lafayette Square. St. Charles Avenue and Lafayette Street. ylcnola.org THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA > MARCH 1425 Cameron Mackintosh's recent revamp of Andrew Lloyd Weber's 1980s blockbuster had critics raving all over again. See why at the Saenger Theatre. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 4

5 ST. PATRICK’S DAY > MARCH 17 Erin go bragh, brah! Grab a green beer and head to Magazine Street (between Jackson and Napoleon) for the Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Day Parade at 1 pm. irishchannelno.org

6 TENNESSEE WILLIAMS LITERARY FESTIVAL > MARCH 2125 The Hotel Monteleone (p. 63) is home base for this 32nd annual salute to the “A Streetcar Named Desire” author. For a full lineup of events, visit tennesseewilliams.net.

MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER Mar. 9 & 11: “Champion: An Opera in Jazz.”

N. Rampart and St. Ann streets, 504.745.3000; mahaliajackson theater.com ORPHEUM THEATER Mar. 12: Fleet Foxes; Mar. 15 & 17: Pines of Rome and Béla Fleck; Mar. 24: “Simply Sinatra.” 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870; orpheum nola.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Mar. 10: Luke Bryan; Mar. 25: Bon Jovi; New Orleans Pelicans Home Games—Mar. 9: vs.

Washington Wizards; Mar. 11: vs. Utah Jazz; Mar. 13: vs. Charlotte Hornets; Mar. 17: vs.

Houston Rockets; Mar. 18: vs. Boston Celtics; Mar. 20: vs. Dallas Mavericks; Mar. 22: vs.

Los Angeles Lakers; Mar. 27: vs. Portland Trail Blazers. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000; smoothiekingcenter. com

(TOP) ©RICHARD TERMINE/CIRQUE DU SOLEIL; (CENTER) ©MATTHEW MURPHY; (BOTTOM) ©YOUSUF KARSH/TENNESSEE WILLIAMS FESTIVAL

JOY THEATER Mar. 1: Tape Face; Mar. 4: George Clinton & Parliament Funkadelic; Mar. 8: Papa Roach; Mar. 16: Above & Beyond. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569; thejoy theater.com

Double Plantation Tour OAK ALLEY

LAURA

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ENJOY OUR OTHER TOURS: SUPER CITY • SWAMP • KATRINA • KATRINA/CITY AIRBOAT • COCKTAIL • GARDEN DISTRICT • FRENCH QUARTER CEMETERY & VOODOO • GHOSTS & SPIRITS • GROUPS

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steamboat

Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com

where now New Orleans

Composer Terence Blanchard 14 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

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CENTER STAGE

Coming Out Swinging

(TOP) ©KEN HOWARD; (BOTTOM) ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; (OPENING PAGE) ©HENRY ADEBONOJO

Composer Terence Blanchard fights the jazz-only label with his boxing opera “Champion.”

Dressed in all black with yellow-rimmed glasses, Terence Blanchard looks every bit the jazz great he is, speaking to an intimate crowd gathered at the Loews New Orleans hotel. The multiple Grammywinning trumpeter and composer, who graduated from the New Orleans Center for Creative Arts before touring with such legends as Lionel Hampton and Art Blakey, is perhaps best known for his many movie scores (from 1991’s “Jungle Fever” to 2016’s “The Comedian”). But it’s the National Opera Conference he’s returned to his hometown to address.

A jazz musician at an opera conference? An opera conference in the birthplace of jazz?

“New Orleans has had a tradition in the music world that people don’t really get,” says the 2018 USA Fellows awardee, who currently teaches at Boston’s Berklee College of Music. “Jazz is what people talk about, but opera has been a big part of this community for decades. My family didn’t listen to jazz; I was the one who brought that into the house. They listened to spiritual music and to opera. My father, mother, uncle and aunt—and a lot of our church members—were all fans of opera. And I thought they were the strangest people on earth.”

Even stranger was when the Opera Theatre of Saint Louis commissioned him to write an opera of his own in 2010. “At first I thought they were drunk,” Blanchard chuckles. “Jazz was my passion.

But I kept thinking about life cycles and how things come back. When I look back on it, I

“Champion”

never strayed far from opera because of my family; I heard that music all the time.”

What audience members will hear when the New Orleans Opera Association mounts Blanchard’s “Champion: An Opera in Jazz” March 9 and 11 at the Mahalia Jackson Theater is what the Huffington Post called “a unanimous winner” when it was performed at the SFJazz Center in 2016, prior to last year’s Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts staging. Based on the tragic, true-life story of boxer Emile Griffith and his legendary 1962 Madison Square Garden bout against Benny “The Kid” Paret, the plot line touches on everything from homosexuality to dementia.

“Most people in the sports world knew Griffith was gay,” Blanchard explains, “but he never put that out in public.

At a press conference [before the fight], in an attempt to gain a psychological edge over Emile, Paret called him a very derogatory term and it upset Emile to no end.” So much so that Griffith pummeled his

opponent with 17 punches in seven seconds, resulting in Paret’s subsequent coma and death. Griffith would himself nearly die a few years later from a beating he received after leaving a gay bar.

“There was one line from his autobiography, ‘Nine…Ten… and Out!,’ that just floored me,” adds Blanchard. “He said, ‘I kill a man and the world forgives me. I love a man and the world wants to kill me.’ To me that was a very, very powerful line; being champion of the world and not being able to share that with someone you love.”

Not your conventional opera…or is it?

“Opera goes well beyond what people think it is,” says Blanchard, who is now at work on a new opera based on “Fire Shut Up in My Bones” by journalist Charles Blow. “Opera is about telling stories, it’s about life and things that are real. It’s about varied issues, societal issues, societal ills. To me, opera is great when you forget you are listening to opera.”

For tickets and details, visit neworleansopera.org.

OTHER VOICES, OTHER ROOMS

Additional operatic experiences around the city.

Opera is nothing new to New Orleans.

Since the late 1700s the city has laid claim to the first opera company in U.S. In 1859 architect James Gallier, Jr. erected the massive French Opera House on the corner of Bourbon and Toulouse streets, helping establish the city as “the Opera Capital of North America.” A mix of Greek Revival and Italianate influences, the ornate building held up to 2,600 patrons from all walks of life.

Destroyed by fire in 1919, the French Opera House was replaced by a hotel during the 1960s. Now a Four Points by Sheraton, you can still hear live opera on the site every second Wednesday of the month (March 14) when Bon Operatit! (bonoperatit.com), an ensemble of classical singers, performs for free in the hotel’s Puccini Bar. Also performing at the Sheraton March 28 is Opera on Tap (operaontap.org), an offshoot of the New Orleans Opera Association (which celebrates its 75th anniversary this year) that takes opera out of theaters and into area bars.

Named among Southern Living’s 2017 Southerners of the Year, mezzo-soprano Giovanni Joseph and daughter Aria Mason founded OperaCréole (operacreole. com) in 2011, breathing new life into the circa-1853 Marigny Opera House and providing a welcome vehicle for rarely staged works by early African-American composers. The Marigny Opera House is also home to the Marigny Opera Ballet (marignyoperahouse.org/ballet), which performs “Giselle Desondes,” its retooled production of the dance classic reset in New Orleans’ 9th Ward, March 23-25.

French Opera House

15

WHERE NOW New

Orleans Drink Up and Pig Out

Top Taco Festival

NEW ORLEANS BOURBON FESTIVAL Whiskey fans get their fill March 8-10 with more than 30 seminars featuring industry experts, cocktail competitions, bourbon-paired dinners, top-shelf tastings and a little burlesque to top things off. Various venues; neworleansbourbon festival.com NUIT BELGE More in a beer mood? Head to Generations Hall March 9 for this heady gathering that pairs Belgian and Belgian-inspired beers with big-flavored small plates from a dozen leading local restaurants. 310 Andrew Higgins Blvd.; nuitbelge.com AGAVE WEEK This new offshoot of the Top Taco Festival celebrates all things tequila and mescal. The intoxicating fun kicks off March 11 with “The World’s Largest Bloody Maria Brunch” at Superior Grill. facebook. com/agaveweek

TOP TACO FESTIVAL Last year’s inaugural fest proved so popular that this year it moves to much larger Woldenberg Park March 15. Who knew NOLA had such an affinity for tacos? But with gourmet takes paired with tricked-out tequila cocktails, what’s not to love? Canal Street at the river; toptaconola.com HOGS FOR THE CAUSE A little music with your barbecue? Over the past decade this pig-centric party has grown into a mini Jazzfest, with 21 bands performing on three separate stages March 23-24. Still, the main draw is the killer ’cue cooked up by teams from around the South. UNO Lakefront Arena Grounds, 6801 Franklin Ave; hogsforthecause.org

Super Sunday

OUT+ABOUT

FOUND(ING) OBJECTS

Sunday in the Park

The Historic New Orleans Collection celebrates the city’s

Once hard to find, in recent years Mardi Gras Indian tribes have become a must-see, especially on Super Sunday (March 18), when they parade their feathered and beaded finery around the Central City neighborhood. Outfitted in colorful, hand-stitched creations that can weigh up to 150 pounds and take a full year to construct, tribe members preen and parade through the streets, battling it out to see who is “prettiest.” The procession begins at 1 pm at A.L. Davis Park (Washington Avenue and LaSalle Street), unless the forecast calls for rain.

Not in town for the big show? Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian suits are on view year-round at the Backstreet Cultural Museum (p. 46) and the House of Dance & Feathers (1317 Tupelo St., 504.957.2678).

Founding Era, which continues through May. Focusing on Na-

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

tricentennial with its new exhibition, New Orleans, The tive Americans, early European settlers and enslaved African people, the exhibit examines the first few decades of the city’s evolution through rare maps and manuscripts and more than 75 objects and artifacts (15th-century Mississippian pottery, 18th-century bear-paw moccasins) on loan from Spain, France, Canada and around the U.S. Related events scheduled throughout the month include an evening of 18th-century harpsichord music at St. Louis Cathedral March 13, a discussion about French Quarter architecture March 20 and a lecture on African contributions to the city’s development March 27. The exhibit and all events are free. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662; hnoc.org

(TOP LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (TOP RIGHT) ©TOP TACO FESTIVAL; (BOTTOM) ©PEABODY MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AND ETHNOLOGY, HARVARD UNIVERSITY EXPEDITION, PEABODY MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AND ETHNOLOGY, HARVARD UNIVERSITY, 1902

Five food fests to savor.

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

LOCAL FLAVOR

25 Things We Love About New Orleans In honor of the city’s tricentennial, each month during 2018 we are highlighting a few of our favorite things (25 x 12 = 300).

Have one of your own? Share it with us at wheretraveler.com, and we’ll consider it for the next issue.

1

Catching cabbages—and kisses—during the Irish Chanel St. Patrick’s Day Parade (p. 12).

13

2

14 15

Picking up French accents, such as anduze pots, at Antiques de Provence (p. 35).

The Steamboat Natchez’s calliope piping out “Raindrops Keep Falling on My Head” during afternoon downpours (p. 44).

Swinging back in time at the National WWII Museum’s Stage Door Canteen (p. 48).

3

Killer PoBoys’ gourmet twists on the city’s signature sandwich (p. 24).

4 (TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER, LEFT) ©LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS; (CENTER, RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©MARDI GRAS WORLD

Seeing Mardi Gras Indians strut their stuff on Super Sunday (p. 16).

GW Fins’ sizzling oysters and fresh-made biscuits (p. 23).

16

Aligning our chakras amid “Two Centuries of Louisiana History” at during Yoga at the Cabildo (p. 46).

8

5

17

6

18 19

7

20

Confederacy of Cruisers’ two-wheeled, three-sheets cocktail tour (p. 42).

Watching the pros hand-roll Vieux Carré stogies at Cigar Factory New Orleans (p. 30).

Posing for pictures with Fats Domino, Pete Fountain, Al Hirt and others at New Orleans Musical Legends Park (p. 41).

The blue-ribbon fried chicken at Willie Mae’s Scotch House (p. 28).

Galatoire’s puffy soufflé potatoes and spirited Friday lunch crowd (p. 23).

8

The Tennessee Williams Festival’s annual Stanley and Stella Shouting Contest in Jackson Square (p. 12).

Edible St. Joseph Day altars.

16

11

The “Paris green” ironwork and copper-plated bathtub at Gallier House (p. 46).

21

The Court of Two Sisters’ century-old wisteria vine canopy and daily jazz brunch (p. 23).

9

22

10

23

The Napoleon-topped water fountain and business cardcovered walls at the Old Absinthe House (p. 48).

Nottoway Plantation’s period-perfect, all-white ballroom (p. 60).

Catching the Carnival spirit long after the parades have passed with a visit to Mardi Gras World (p. 41).

The mule-drawn Roman Chewing Candy cart distributing its trademark taffy along St. Charles Avenue as it has since 1915.

11 12

24

Retracing 300 years of history on French Quarter walking tours.

Getting a whiff of backyard crawfish boils.

Eyeing alligators—and getting eyed back—on an Airboat Adventures tour (p. 42).

25 23

Watching the culinary magic unfold while dining at the kitchen table at Commander’s Palace (p. 26).

17

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, notable and not to be missed.

Heard Dat Kitchen FOOD+DRINK

Make Yourselves at Home In the Creole tradition, St. Joseph’s Day (March 19) is a commemoration of departed loved ones, family and food. Happen upon a home altar, and there will be a meat-free meal of spaghetti, seafood, vegetables and sweets. Truth is, much of this homey Creole food (with and without meat) can be found on a regular basis all over the city. Creole food temples such as Lil’ Dizzy’s (p. 28), Dooky Chase (p. 28) and Commander’s Palace (p. 26) will always be on diners’ must-do lists, though there are loads of Creole cafés to discover as well.

Mena’s Palace (200 Chartres St., 504.525.0217) in the French Quarter has been owned and operated by chef Leo Christakis for more than 40 years. Turning out eggy breakfast standards and local favorites at lunch, the food is familiar and fine. Fat po’boys (get the gravy-soaked roast beef), creamy red beans and rice, stuffed peppers, fried chicken, potato salad, paneed veal and gravy....

In the up-and-coming Central City neighborhood, chef Jeff Heard’s Heard Dat Kitchen (2520 Felicity St., 504.510.4248) is all about Creole comfort dishes with gourmet touches. With no formal dining room (and only a few outdoor tables), food is mostly ordered to-go. Skeesh Wings, tossed in a spicy-sweet barbeque sauce, are sticky, finger-licking divine and

perfect counterpart to grilled (or fried) fish with cream sauce, rich gumbo, lobster mashed potatoes—everything is delectable.

Chef Greg Tillery is beloved for his personality, food and community spirit. Starting with a food truck, Tillery now has two brickand-mortar locations of We Dat’s Chicken & Shrimp (1407 Canal St., 504.252.4927; 500 Old Gentilly Rd., 504.605.9959) for fast, casual food done well. The Wuzzam Wings deliciously combine lemon pepper and buffalo sauces. There’s also crunchy fried shrimp and catfish platters and really good signature house drinks.

Fine or fast-casual Creole dining is about flavor traditions and bites of comfort that help define the taste of New Orleans. Take a seat at the table; join the family. —Lorin Gaudin

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

PALOMA CAFÉ This cozy Bywater corner spot puts out smart, Latin-inspired menus for breakfast, lunch (’til 3 pm) and dinner (6 to 10 pm). Fried cod fritters are a great start, and then there are the eggs baked in spicy tomato sauce (shakshuka).

The fried yucca, chorizo-and-egg biscuits, mojo-roasted pork on fried green plantains (patacones) and flan are top picks, but we’ve eaten the rice pudding topped with spiced cereal crunchies … twice. 800 Louisa St., 504.304.3062 MAX WELL The plant-based, organic menu of bowls, juices and salads at this health-conscious café near Audubon Park features “nutrient dense ingredients to promote Maximum Wellness.” Of course there are bright, fresh fruit and veg juices and silky soups (we love the curried cauliflower), but the salads and bowls are spectacular.

The seed-packed Hippie Salad

(pumpkin, sunflower and hemp) is full of crunch and zing from the pomegranate vinaigrette. Check out the Lentil Kitchari. 6101 Magazine St., 504.301.0510 VYOONE’S New Orleans/French/Mediterranean items fill the menu at this Warehouse District restaurant, and there’s even a Vietnamese nod (fried oyster bahn mi). Dine on classics—shrimp and grits, coq au vin, Coquille St. Jacques—or venture off the path with ground lamb loin with ricotta and fried olives. Do not miss the excellent old school French onion soup or mussels with shoestring fries. 412 Girod St., 504.518.6007 —LG

Paloma Café

LAST BITE St. Joseph’s Day celebrations are, of course, spiritual, but they’re also delicious—especially the sweets. Altars paying homage to St. Joseph, in gratitude for famine relief, are often filled with a variety of foods, including large displays of Italian cookies: crisp anise-scented, sweet/savory sesame seed; fig-filled and color-sprinkled cucidati; iced biscotti; sticky honey puffs shaped like pine cones; etc. Not in town on Feast Day? Angelo Brocato’s (p. 28) offers fresh-baked cookies that can be bought straight from the display case year-round, or grab single variety or mixed cookies in sealed bags to take-away. More than a century old, the shop (located on the Canal streetcar line) is a bastion of New Orleans Italian tradition, family operated and keeper of the traditional flame. —LG

(TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; (CENTER) ©LORIN GAUDIN; (BOTTOM) ©DOUG BRANTLEY

WHERE NOW New

the guide Dining March

Going to A-Go-Go

New Place in Town

Earlier this year flocks of flamingos began popping up around town, heralding the arrival of Flamingo A-Go-Go (869 Magazine St., 504.577.2202; flamingonola.com), a sprawling new space in the Warehouse District. With a patio so big you could park a two-ton Army truck in it (in fact, the owners did), 35 taps pouring beer, wine and batched “flocktails” and late-night bites until 2 am, A-Go-Go is the perfect go-to for springtime alfresco dining.

Tuck into poke bowls and flatbreads at lunch or go big during dinner with Hawaiian steak kabobs or jerk chicken with collard greens and grilled pineapple. Did we mention the bottomless mimosas at brunch?

Fans of Irene’s Cuisine (p. 24), which drew diners in by pumping the scent of sautéed garlic out onto St. Philip Street, will find the beloved Creole-Italian eatery relocated to the opposite end of the French Quarter. Pay a visit to its new location for such signature dishes as crabmeat au gratin (shown) and rosemary chicken.

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BORGNE Seafood. At this seafood-centric

restaurant, fantastic apps (such as duck-andjalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with easygoing sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. $$ L, D (daily). www.borgnerestaurant. com. 601 Loyola Ave. (in the Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504.613.3860. Map 3, C3 BRIQUETTESeafood. Contemporary coastal is the

catch at this sprawling Warehouse District space.

Follow the lobster-andouille tamale with a lump crab-and-pickled mirliton salad then dive into broiled sea scallops with cheddar grits or a grilled whole redfish. www.briquettenola.com $$$ D (nightly). 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

CAFÉ ADELAIDE Louisiana. Chef Meg Bickford

helms the kitchen at this bistro spinoff of Commander’s Palace in the Loews Hotel. Bickford serves up playful takes on modern Creole cuisine, like oyster and pork belly po’boys. B, L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.cafeadelaide.com. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 CLEO’S Mediterranean. Egyptian transplant Tarek

Madkour brings a taste of the Middle East to the CBD. Open 24/7, his café/convenience store offers an extensive selection of kabab sandwiches and plates, along with shwarma, fried kibby, stuffed grape leaves, falafel, salads and more. $ B, L, D (daily). 165 University Pl., 504.522.4504. Map 3, D3 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with

haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Bider-

man’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Handground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; housemade mayo and pickles; fresh-baked buns. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront res-

(LEFT) ©FLAMINGO A-GO-GO (RIGHT) ©CHERYL GERBER

Central Business/ Warehouse District

DINING

taurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 THE DAILY BEETVegetarian. Light, healthy eats and

cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrialchic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an “Orbit” bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. $ B, L, D (daily). www.thedailybeetnola.com. 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, B4

DOMENICA Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot offers out-of-the-norm antipasta (octopus carpaccio, roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum,

banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 GRAND ISLE Seafood. This comfy seafood house

boasts such standouts as crab-and-brie handpies, crispy calamari, fisherman’s stew and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the oyster bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer served from taps encased in ice. $$ L, D (daily). www. grandislerestaurant.com. 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6 GRILL ROOM Contemporary. The Mobile four-star

fine dining room at the Windsor Court Hotel is a favorite of both locals and visitors. Refined yet relaxed, the Grill Room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. Excellent wine program. $$$ B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). www.windsorcourthotel.com. 300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6 HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine

dining spots. James Beard Award-winning chef Rebecca Wilcomb’s menu changes fequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com. 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hip eater puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L, D (daily). www. johnnysanchezrestaurant.com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAGASIN KITCHENVietnamese. Porridge is “in”

at this modern-minded Vietnamese café, and the congee with salted pork and “century egg” is all kinds of trendy good. Make sure to save room for the Vietnamese affogato—an ice cream version of the eponymous Italian coffee drink. $ L (daily), D (M-Sa). 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.571.5677. Map 3, B4 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 NEW ORLEANS SOCIAL HOUSE Contemporary.

Noshing on sharable small plates—lobster tacos, bison sliders, salmon tartines—while sipping craft cocktails and wine, is the idea here.

Live music nightly. $$ D (nightly); Br (Su). www. noshneworleans.com. 752 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.1103. Map 3, C6 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 21

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................20

Central City..................................................................................................22 French Quarter.........................................................................................22 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 26 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................27 Mid-City..........................................................................................................28 Uptown..........................................................................................................28

PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap (including a full line of locally made Abita brews), live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 REVELATOR Coffee. Sleek, chic and perfect for

the coffee (juice or tea) geek. The baristas here are friendly educators who share their passion for impeccably sourced beans roasted to spec with focus on flavor nuance. $ B, L (daily). www. revelatorcoffee.com. 637 Tchoupitoulas St., 205.224.5900. Map 3, C6 SACALAIT Louisiana. Chefs Cody and Samantha

Carroll bring country dishes with a city spin. Proof: a mildly wild-tasting turtle boudin over duck-egg risotto with sherry sauce piquant, frog leg-and-alligator gumbo with potato salad or slate-blackened redfish with shrimp dirty rice. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.

22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

sac-a-laitrestaurant.com. 1051 Annunciation St., 504.324.3658. Map 3, B7 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com.

630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St. James

is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. $ L (M-Su), D (M-Sa); check location hours. www.stjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chef Kelly

Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory sides as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue

and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L, D (daily). www.centralcitybbq.com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colom-

bian restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su).

1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (Su). www. toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell.

Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the country ham-wrapped rabbit leg. $$$ D (W-Su); Br (FSu). www.angelinenola.com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4

DINING

ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com.

713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

“Shrimp Arnaud,” “Oysters Bienville” and “Café Brûlot” are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 THE BOMBAY CLUB Louisiana. Chef Phillip Todd’s

European-inspired Louisiana cuisine is a perfect fit for this swanky spot tucked into the Prince Conti Hotel. Cultures combine in dishes such as boudin Scotch eggs, gnocchi with pork cheek Bolognese and Abita beer-battered fish and chips. Great cocktails and live music nightly. $$ D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.bombayclubneworleans.com.

830 Conti St., 504.577.2237. Map 3, F4 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition

to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse. com. 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Jake Shapiro serves up longpopular classics, such as broiled black drum with rosemary-mustard crust and ginger-apple glaze.

Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana. Located in a gorgeous

French Quarter courtyard and carriage house that was once home to Alice Heine, America’s first Princess of Monaco, this is the perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle, satsuma and pepperglazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). A quick-service offshoot, Petite

Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 504.412.8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and

delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. $ B, L, D (daily).

Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu.

Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ D (nightly). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola. com. 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. Save room for the killer coconut cake. $$ D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop with superior quality dryaged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list, though the handsome remodel of the historic space is alone worth a visit. $$$ L (F-Su), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Owners Gary Wollerman and

chef Tenney Flynn have taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet, Fats Domino’s autographed piano top and Madonna’s G-string. Live music four nights a week. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic

and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. $$ D (M-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.

His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular dining spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 MEAUXBAR French. French bistro standards

tweaked with a modern hand. Signature dishes include saffron-laced mussels nestled in a flavorpacked broth and crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. $$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.meauxbar. com. 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

Oyster Happy Hour M-F 3-6PM in our Oyster Bar.

DINING

Indulge

in Family Traditions at Antoine’s Restaurant for Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Jazz Brunch!

scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole. Overlooking

Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Erik Venéy’s contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfish-andgoat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa, Su jazz brunch). www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

504-581-4422 www.a ntoines.com 713 Rue Saint Louis New Orl ea ns, LA 70130

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro recently received a full makeover to mark its 25th anniversary. The new small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings with peanut sauce and smoked crab cheesecake boulettes. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils. com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com.

132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated; try the turtle soup, shrimp remoulade or oysters from the raw bar. $ L, D w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

(daily). www.remoulade.com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. Pastry chef extraordi-

naire Tariq Hanna’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for a lingering brunch or afternoon tea. Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Brunch, L (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com. 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south of

Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4

125 BOURBON ST. AT IBERVILLE +1-504-529-5617 RESERVATIONS AVAILABLE AT WWW.HARDROCK.COM/NEWORLEANS #THISISHARDROCK

STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance

meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the Korean beef po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, corned beef hash and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com.

547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

©2018 Hard Rock International (USA), Inc. All rights reserved.

KRYSTAL CUSTOM BREAKFAST

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastroHRC58036NO18 pub, New Orleans-WHERE MARCH 2018 Ad_4.625x4.875.indd 1 as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 TRINITY Louisiana. The menu here pays homage

2/2/18 12:21 PM

3 EGG BREAKFAST & BEVERAGE

5.59

$

to the “trinity” of flavors, elements and techniques in New Orleans cuisine. Hush puppies get richness from duck fat, while the cucumber salad refreshes with crisp apples and pairs perfectly with the citrusy seared snapper. $$$ D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www.trinityrestaurantneworleans.com. 1117 Decatur St., 504.325.5789. Map 3, I5 TUJAGUE’S Creole. Open since 1856, Tujague’s

(“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu, along with contemporary a la carte offerings. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.tujaguesrestaurant.com. 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family 26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

* Consuming raw or undercooked meats, poultry, seafood, shellfish, or eggs may increase your risk of foodborne illness, especially if you have a medical condition.

©2018 Copyright The Krystal Company. All rights reserved.

DINING

tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 DISTRICT Coffee. Donuts. Sliders. Brew. That’s

the way District bills itself, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this kicked-up coffee shop: craft-style donuts (try the Vietnamese coffee variety), savory sliders and nitro-brewed coffee on tap. $ Open daily. www.donutsandsliders.com. 2209 Magazine St., 504.570.6945. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes and decadent chocolate beignets making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers

build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes (edamame, fish roe, etc.). $ L, D (daily) www.eatpokeloa.com.

3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; 939 Girod St.,. Map 3, B4; 701 Metairie Rd., 504.605.4184. Map 3, C2 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches

are the menu mainstay at this casual café, named 2017’s “Best New Restaurant in America” by Bon Appétit: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L (W-M). www.turkeyandthewolf.com.

739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com

Now Serving Lunch

bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 THE JOINT Barbecue. This funky Bywater fave

is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. Featured on the Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.” $ L, D

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

(M-Sa). www.alwayssmokin.com. 701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3 THREE MUSES Eclectic. This Frenchmen Street hot

spot offers a clubby vibe, live music, smart cocktails and amazing eats. Raves are drawn for the menu’s variety and chef Daniel Esses’ stellar preparations of small plate-portioned lamb sliders and feta fries. $ D (nightly). www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5

Mid-City ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery. This century-old ice

cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with glass-topped tables, slow-turning ceiling fans and some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. $ Open Tu-Su. www.angelobrocatoicecream.com.

214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.1465. Map 1, D2 BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 DOOKY CHASE Creole. One of the oldest African-

American restaurants in the nation. Chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” has built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as her seemingly simple red beans and rice, steaming gumbo and crispy-yet-tender fried chicken. $$ L (Tu-F), D (F). www.dookychaserestaurant.com.

2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3 GABRIELLE Louisiana. Gabrielle’s post-Katrina

return to the local restaurant scene is a mostwelcome one. The menu reflects long-beloved dishes, such as slow-roasted duck, new recipes and a surprise or two, like braised rabbit with rose-petal syrup and Stilton cheese fries. $$ D (Tu-Sa). 2441 Orleans Ave., 504.603.2344. Map 1, D3 LIL’ DIZZY’S CAFÉ Creole. Restaurateur Wayne

Baquet is known for his award-winning trout Baquet, gumbo, fried chicken and baked macaroni.

Lil’ Dizzy’s takes breakfast seriously, with creamy grits, perfect French toast and fresh-baked biscuits. $$ B, L (daily). 1500 Esplanade Ave., 504.569.8997. Map 3, I1 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restau-

rateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.ralphsonthepark. com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 1000 FIGS Mediterranean. At this popular Mid-

City spot classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj and lamb. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.1000figs.com. 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

(Toups’ South) is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com.

845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3 WILLIE MAE’S SCOTCH HOUSE Southern. This

beloved neighborhood eatery draws foodies from around the globe with its famous fried chicken and other Southern standards. $ L (M-Sa). 2401 St. Ann St., 504.822.9503. Map 1, D3

Uptown APOLLINE Louisiana. In this renovated shotgun

house, contemporary twists on French/Creole cuisine make diners feel right at home. Char-broiled oysters with bacon marmalade, cold-smoked pork chops, seared scallops with maque choux and pork plank; at brunch try the confit duck with potato hash, duck cracklin and Hollandaise. $$$ Brunch, D (Tu-Su). www.apollinerestaurant.com. 4729 Magazine St., 504.894.8881. Map 1, D4

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1 standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great

off-the-beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L (Tu-Sa); D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www. boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet.

No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough— flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ L (Th-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (SaSu). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 3, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots and salmon poke tacos before devouring the chicken fried rabbit or turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DEL FUEGO Mexican. Chef David Wright and bar

gal Shannon Solomon’s ramped-up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during their travels to Mexico. House-made tortillas wrap

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.delfuegotaqueria.com. 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB

pays homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. Killer cocktail program. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon).

Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate French

bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 LA THAI UPTOWN Thai. Resembling a swank Thai

palace, this gorgeous space is the perfect setting for modern and traditional Thai food. Do not miss the stuffed chicken wings, seafood curry and the city’s best hot-and-sour soup. $$ L (Th-F), D (Tu-Su). www.lathaiuptown.com. 4938 Prytania St., 504.899.8886. Map 1, D4 LILETTE French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and

feels French, but makes a mean Italian eggplant Parmigiano as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.liletterestaurant.com. 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans land-

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS Louisiana. Chef Aaron Burgau has earned

all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a young man “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). www.patoisnola. com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare with

contemporary flare. Top picks include the pakoda choti, roti sathi and any of the crispy dosa on the brunch menu. $$ D (Tu-Sa); Br (Su). www.saffronnola.com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

Israel at this modern Mediterranean eatery, named “Best New Restaurant” in the nation by the James Beard Foundation in 2016. Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slowcooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant.com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

Shopping

Color Our World

Tiny Town

William Faulkner, Tennessee Williams, Grace King, Truman Capote, Shirley Ann Grau, John Kennedy Toole, Anne Rice: Over the years, New Orleans has served as muse to countless authors and writers. Papier Plume (p. 32) helps capture the city in your own words with its New Orleans Collection of inks. Sazerac (orange), Red Beans and Rice (red), Mardi Gras Indian Purple and Garden District Azalea (pink) are just a few of the Crescent City hues offered, in addition to imported pens, journals and other implements. You’ll also spot a special limited-edition Tricentennial Pen set, in celebration of the city’s 300th anniversary, which includes one of the inks, a NOLA seal and two waxes.

Love New Orleans so much you wish you could take a piece of it home with you?

Swing by Hundred Acre Design Studio & Shop (p. 32) for one of Pete’s Papercrafts’ DIY, 3-D cardboard dioramas of local landmarks. Jackson Square, the St. Charles streetcar and Creole Queen riverboat are all represented.

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings.

Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s

fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www. billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DIRTY COAST Just when you thought

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine wheretraveler.com St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4

New Orleans couldn’t possibly fit another Tshirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. www.dirtycoast. com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as Elle

and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintage-inspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com. 829 Chartres St.,

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM

Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré. www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop, you’ll find

fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery— along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes

THE FRENCH MARKET—the nation’s oldest public produce market—stands on the site of a former Native American trading post established during pre-colonial days.

30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

(LEFT) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (RIGHT) ©PETE’S PAPERCRAFTS

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com.

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MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 30

Clothing........................................................................................................ 30 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 30 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 33 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 33 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 33 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 33 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 34 Shoes............................................................................................................... 34

and gift items. www.shopforeverneworleans. com. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 HUNDRED ACREAt this friendly design studio

and shop the well-curated stock runs the gamut, from New Orleans-themed collectibles and fun gift items to cool jewelry and home accents. www. hundredacredesign.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 101, 504.313.3050. Map 3, G5 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.516.2601. Map 3, G4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s bou-

tique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume. com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4

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SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, travel diaries and photo albums. www.scriptura.com.

5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4;

32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

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SHOPPING

Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

BRING NEW ORLEANS HOME S T E R L I N G S I LV E R J E W E L R Y INSPIRED BY NEW ORLE ANS

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.891.1026. Map 1, D4 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4

Hats & Accessories 719 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70116 504.522.9222 © 2018 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved

GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

Where do you want to go?

Find the best of the city

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country. www. meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2525. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803. Map 1, D4

Health & Beauty/Spas HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans. com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 33

THE GUIDE

Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. artandeyesneworleansla.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St.

Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry here. www.fleurdorleans. com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4

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Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-

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nered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4 PORTER LYONSJewelry designer Ashley Lyons is

a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-andmortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5

Malls/Major Retailers

Papier Plume 842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace. com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Shoes CHARLESTON SHOE CO.This national retailer’s

“cobblestones to cocktails shoe” designs are the perfect fit for on-the-go women who want to stay comfortable and stylish all day long. www. charlestonshoeco.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 102, 855.996.7462. Map 3, G5; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 855.996.7463. Map 3, E5

Toys • Boxes • Games •

THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

Gizmos • Gadgets • Gifts of Wood • Clocks • Puzzles • Office

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7

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GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn NO-WM_140400_IdeaFactory.indd 1 Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2

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JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4

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SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. www.shoebedousa.com.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

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THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques Pop in This Shop Town & Country magazine compared her to Andy Warhol; Forbes called her one of the South’s leading female entrepreneurs. Both are fitting descriptions of local artist Sarah Ashley Longshore (p.

38) whose popular pop art is counted among private collections worldwide.

Like Warhol, Longshore’s quirky, colorful works target celebrities (Anna Wintour, Frida Kahlo, Lil Wayne), brand names (Chanel, Veuve Clicquot, Louis Vuitton) and consumerism. Best known for her seItem Head ries of off beat Audrey Hepburn paintings 52 wds. Product Item Text. Myriad Pro (“Audrey In Space,” “Audrey With Siamese SemiBoldFish”), SemiExt 8/11pt Dummy text Fighting Longshore also dabbles goes here dummy text and goesperformance here ipso in home décor, fashion callumn y unum pqrellx i Dummy text art. Step into her Uptown studio and galgoeswith hereits dummy text goes here ipso lery, giant lipstick sculptures and callumn x i. Open M-Sa 11 am-7 Su statement-making furniture, andpm, you’ll noon-6 pm. www.fj allraven.us.

304 Newsee why Elle dubbed her “New Orleans’ bury St., 857.225.5683.

Map 5, F5 Most Badass Artist.”

Central Business/ Warehouse District ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is

©SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to

the cutting-edge creations on its walls. www.martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5

There’s a lot more going on this month.

March.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This con-

temporary space spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings, sculpture and photography. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent

exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker and Samella Lewis, among others. www.stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery. com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors

and painters represented include Peter Max, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4

ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-An-

tieau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here.

Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5

ALL DURING CAP THE LEAD EARLY IN Myriad 1800s Proartist Lightand SemiExtended naturalist John 8pt James dummyAudubon text heredrew for dummy inspiration textfrom here Louisiana’s for dummynative text here wildlife for dummy for his text groundbreaking or dummy “Birds in America” series. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 35

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 35

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 35 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................38 Collectives.....................................................................................................40 Other Locations.......................................................................................40

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th- and 19th-centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 FUNERAL GALLERY Offbeat illustrations, macabre

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.funeralgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 GRAPHITE GALLERYSeeking something cutting-

edge and cool? This is the place. Works by emerging and mid-career artists from around the globe, ranging from paintings to sculpture, are the draw at this contemporary space, which also features upand-coming local talents. www.graphitenola.com.

936 Royal St., 504.565.3739. Map 3, H4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. Map 3, F4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JACK SUTTON ANTIQUES The Sutton family has

been one of Royal Street’s most prominent since 1915. This emporium is an elegantly decorated living room filled with 19th- and 20th-century decorative antiques, vintage watches, fine jewelry, dinnerware and paintings. 315 Royal St., 504.522.0555. Map 3, F4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals in

international oil paintings from the 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in objects

for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4

MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photog-

rapher Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques.

Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. www.modernistcuisinegallery. com. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map3, F4 MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com.

411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. Originals, giclées and prints are offered, along with live-painting event services. www.artgallerynola.com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4 PENNINGTON FINE ARTWith no formal training,

Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others at Boston’s Museum of Fine Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. www.penningtonart.com. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 SCENE BY RHYS“New Orleans music inked into

art,” is the adage of artist Emilie Rhys, who you’ll likely spot sketching away in a local club. Like her legendary father, Noel Rockmore, known for his Preservation Hall paintings during the 1960s, Rhys captures the beat of the city through portraits of its musicians. www.scenebyrhys.com. 708 Toulouse St., 504.258.5842. Map3, G4 TANNER GALLERIES & STUDIO Home to local

artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.”

Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec.

Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the

THE GUIDE

collection. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 ANTON HAARDT GALLERY Folk art gets the fine art

treatment at this gallery, which features the works of such outsider insiders as Mose Tolliver, Jimmie Sudduth, Sybil Gibson, B.F. Perkins, Howard Finster and Juanita Rogers. www.antonhaardtgallery.com.

2858 Magazine St., 504.444.2967. Map 1, D4 B.FOS GALLERY ”I gather inspiration from all

corners of this wild, beautiufl and colorful city,” says artist Becky Fos, which is reflected in her vibrant oils works of local wildlife and area icons. www.beckyfos.com. 2138 Magazine St., 504.444.2967. Map 1, D4 CAROL ROBINSON GALLERY Spotlighting

local and national artists, this gallery showcases paintings, sculpture and ceeramics. www. carolrobinsongallery.com. 840 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.6130. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 FRENCHY GALLERY Art of the moment takes on

new meaning in the hands of Randy Leo Frechette, who captures moments on canvas as they unfold.

From music fests to sporting events to Carnival parades, you’ll find the real-time artist fast at work among the crowds. www.frenchylive.com. 8314 Oak St., 504.861.7595. Map 1, C3

FEBRUARY 21 – MAY 28, 2018 A Queen Within: Adorned Archetypes is developed by Barrett Barrera Projects and MUSEEA, toured internationally

by Flying Fish. Presentation at NOMA is sponsored by the Eugenie and Joseph Jones Family Foundation.

Additional support provided by Ashley Longshore, Joseph: A Women’s Fashion Boutique, and Millie Davis Kohn.

GUTHRIE CONTEMPORARY GALLERY Paintings,

photography and sculpture by both national and international artists is the focus here. www. guthriecontemporary.com. 3815 Magazine St., 504.897.2688. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its colorful pop art paintingsand offbeat furnishings, and you’ll understand why Longshore has such a strong cult following. www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4

Sarah Burton/Alexander McQueen, white floral platform heels, Spring/Summer 2011.

Courtesy of Barrett Barrera Projects & RKL consulting. Photo Sarah Carmody.

TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past de49-0118 A Queen Within Where Magazine Ad.indd 1

cade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vivid architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne. com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4

WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques. com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4 ZACK SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY STUDIO If you’ve

ever attended the French Quarter Festival, chances are you’ve spotted Smith and his camera standing out from the crowd. Prints of his fine art images are offered, in addition to photography work38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

2/1/18 2:43 PM

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc shops. www.zacksmith.com. 4514 Magazine St., 504.251.7745. Map 1, D4

FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features worksby dozens of regional artists.

Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

JACKSON SQUARE ART COLLECTIVE One of the

oldest active art colonies in the nation, the collective counts numerous artists displaying their works daily. www.jackson-square.com. Map 3, G5

623 royAL street

LA GUILDThis showcase of juried craft artisans

from around the state and region features works in a wide range of media, from glass and wood to metal and clay. www.louisianacrafts.org.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.592.7633. Map 3, E5

French quArter

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. 2028 Magazine St., 504.523.7945. Map 1, D4

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Harry Shearer and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net.

3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKETThis after-dark art mart

takes place in a converted auto body shop (aka the Art Garage). From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps to folk art and photography, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares, Th-Sa, 8 pm-1 am. www.frenchmenartmarket.com. 2231 St. Claude Ave., 504.717.0750. Map 3, J5 STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ giant graffiti-style mu-

rals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space in the Bywater neighborhood. The evocative collection explores African-American life, from the Civil Rights era to the Black Lives Matter movement. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm. www.ephemeraleternal. com. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3 WHERE Y’ART Love New Orleans art but don’t

have time to fully explore all of the city’s many galleries? Along with a brick-and-mortar space in the Marigny neighborhood, this local incubator offers a 24/7 virtual gallery featuring more than 100 area artists. www.whereyart.net. 1901 Royal St., 504.325.5672. Map 3, J4

40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

new orLeAns

6 17 B i e n v i l l e S t r e e t

New Orleans

Sun–Wed: 10–6 | Thu–Sat: 10–9 michalopoulos .com

THE GUIDE

Entertainment

He Rebuilt This City

Beaucoup Fun

New Orleans is known for its architecture, but over the past 300 years the city lost many of its most significant structures. Artist Jim Blanchard made it his mission to bring them back, researching and rendering long-lost (and some still-standing) buildings around the city and state in meticulous detail. The result is A Precise Vision: The Architectural Archival Watercolors of Jim Blanchard, a 30-year retrospective of his ink-and-watercolor works, which opens March 8 at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art (p. 48). Blanchard has also released a companion book, “Magnificent Obsessions,” which is available at the Ogden, the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 46) and Houmas House Plantation (p. 58).

Bassnectar, Sza, Migos, A Day to Remember: More than 70 alternative, R&B, hiphop, EDM and indie acts share multiple stages in and around massive Mardi Gras World (p. 41) March 9-10 during the Buku Music + Art Project. Between sets, check out the onsite art exhibits and live graffiti gallery. thebukuproject.com

Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

(LEFT) ©OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART; (RIGHT) ©BUKU MUSIC + ART PROJECT

AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted

to insects. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4 AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800

animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs

from St. Charles streetcar stop 36.

Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org.

6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4

There’s a lot more going on this month.

March.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a

lush canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Place, 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino. This

mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleans-themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street Map 3, G5 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long

inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on

the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www.mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8

NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEE LOSThis popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary

of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul. www.stlou-

IT’S A SMALL WORLD AFTER ALL : New Orleans ranks as the only city to be represented at each of the Walt Disney theme parks around the globe. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 41

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 61-63.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................41 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................42 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 46 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 48 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 48

iscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CITY SIGHTSEEING This double-decker bus tour

allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket: $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www. citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away

CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 DESTINATION KITCHENThese deliciously fun tours

provide a real taste of New Orleans. A variety of culinary and cocktail excursions are offered, along with French Quarter and Garden District walking tours. Custom outings are also available. www. destination-kitchen.com. 885.353.6634.

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

Put the power of Where® in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

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THE GUIDE

GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2.25 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs.

Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs.

Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com.

400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am and 1:15 pm from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.).

Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 and

7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www. hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOURThese

guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs nightly at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. www.spiritsandspellstour.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5 STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACOTRY TOUR Free

guided daily tours, 9 am-4 pm., except major holidays. www.tabasco.com. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from701 Royal St.; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

THE GUIDE

Museums & Exhibits AMERICAN ITALIAN MUSEUM This cultural center

pays tribute to the history and contributions of Italian-Americans in Louisiana. $8 adults, $5 seniors/students, free ages 11 and under. Open M-F, 10 am-4 pm. www.americanitalianculturalcenter. com. 537 S. Peters St., 504.522.7294. Map 3, D6 BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs. Admission $10; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $10 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this

house/museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/ students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4

Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 am - 4 pm by Admission

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: “The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History.” 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St.)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St.)– Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Free. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave.)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Presbytère (Jackson Square)–Continuing: “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” and “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond.” For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

Bubbles, Bourbon & Wine

Amazing Grapes

Wine Tasting, Auction & Creole Cuisine

Friday, March 16, 2018

820 St. Louis Street • New Orleans, LA Tickets available online at 501auctions.com/amazinggrapes/tickets or call (504) 274-0746

THE GUIDE

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries” and “Final Mission” an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings.

Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free). Open Fri-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6

Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE This historic bar continues

to draw absinthe enthusiasts as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehouse.com. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail.

A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com.

718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR The perfect place to sample a

Sazerac, the official cocktail of New Orleans. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

Live Entertainment THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot recre-

ates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 MAPLE LEAFA tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359 Map 1, C3 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. www.preservationhall. com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN This fun WWII Museum

venue features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. www.stagedoorcanteen. org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6

48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

THE GUIDE

Navigate Something Borrowed, Something Blue

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNAIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2019.

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

©JASON COHEN

How best to navigate around New Orleans and squeeze in a little exercise at the same time? On one of the 700-plus Blue Bikes that recently hit the streets.

The city’s new municipal bicycle-sharing program, in partnership with Blue Cross/ Blue Shield of Louisiana (hence their color), offers an easy alternative to Uber with dozens of rental/drop-off stations stretching from the French Quarter to City Park and between the Bywater and Garden District neighborhoods. Riders register on the Blue Bikes website or app, where they receive account and pin numbers needed to unlock the bikes, which rent for $8 an hour and can be dropped off at any rack station citywide.

For additional information and a map of locations, visit bluebikesnola.com … and get rolling.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index General Information........................................................................... 50 Nearby Destinations............................................................................51 Cajun Country...........................................................................................51 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 51 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 51 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................51 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................51 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 51 Transportation ....................................................................................... 50

CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map

by Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include actor Brad Pitt’s Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts.

Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of

the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. www.houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

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3 2 1

THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Rethinking River Road In 1971 the newly formed River Road Historical Society set out to restore longneglected Destrehan Plantation, turning a crumbling eyesore into a shining example of civic pride, and jumpstarting a new era of reconstruction along the historic highway. Nearly a half century later, Destrehan is once again part of a River Road revival, joining other area plantations, such as Laura and Whitney, in embracing the once-unspoken subject of slavery. At one time counting more than 200 enslaved workers, Destrehan was the site of an 1811 tribunal to determine punishment in the largest slave revolt in American history. But it also served as a home colony for the Freeman’s Bureau, housing more than 700 newly freed slaves by 1866. Think there’s nothing new to learn in old plantation country? Think again.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

©DESTREHAN PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 58 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 58 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 59 Dining........................................................................................................... 60

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 60 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I F E B R UA R Y 20 18

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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62 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 2 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St RH Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

First-Timers

Luxury Seekers

Romantics

Laid out as a military parade ground in 1721, (1) Jackson Square remains one of the city’s most historic—and most visited—sites. Given its location in the heart of the French Quarter, it’s hard to miss the square’s signature statue of general Andrew Jackson. Celebrating death may seem a macabre way to spend an afternoon, but here it’s a way of life. New Orleans’ most popular “city of the dead” is (2) St. Louis Cemetery #1, which counts voodoo priestess Marie Laveau and (still living) actor Nicolas Cage among its aboveground tombs. Hot nights call for cool jazz, and it doesn’t get much cooler than (3) Preservation Hall, which has been preserving the city’s time-honored jazz customs since the early 1960s.

Royal Street has long reigned as a Southern antiquing center, with (1) M.S. Rau its crown jewel. Its massive showroom spans centuries and continents with everything from fine art to rare timepieces. Searching for an English mahogany dining table that seats 32? You’ll find it here. An elegant escape inside the equally elegant Roosevelt Hotel, the (2) Waldorf Astoria Spa is outfitted in warm woods and cool Venetian plaster, and incorporates gold and diamonds into its lavish body treatments.

One state-of-the-art kitchen, two nationally celebrated chefs: That’s the recipe for success behind (3) Restaurant R’evolution. Take the Caviar Staircase before diving into Death by Gumbo. After dessert a lacquered jewelry box arrives, filled with complimentary bonus bites.

If the world’s largest collection of live oaks doesn’t make you swoon, (1) City Park’s Enrique Alférez Sculpture Garden will. You’ll spot more works by the WPA-era artist throughout the 1,300-acre green space, in addition to the circa-1907 Peristyle, a popular wedding venue.

Forget candlelight; it’s flickering gaslight that sets French Quarter visitors’ hearts aflutter.

Stop by (2) Bevolo to see the shop’s iconic lamps being made, and take one with you to keep the love fire burning back home. A plantation country day trip takes you out of the city and into an entirely different era. (3) Houmas House is one of the most opulent and the setting for countless weddings. Roam the gorgeous grounds, have a drink in the Turtle Bar, then tuck in for the night on site.

64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2018

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