Where Magazine New Orleans July 2018

GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS

BAGGING THE BIG EASY Hot shops and cool buys

DINE

BELLY UP TO THE BAR

PLAY

THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS

EXPLORE

MUSEUM EXHIBITS JULY 2018

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New Orleans CONTENTS

07.18

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the plan

the guide 20

9 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Elijah Bradshaw Concierge at the W French Quarter Hotel.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood.

Plus Pythian Market and chef Nina Compton doubles down.

10 Editor’s Note Revisiting 50 years of Where New Orleans.

XX 28 SHOPPING

12 Hot Dates

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus "the Champagne of pepper sauce."

16

GALLERIES +

34 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl. Plus artful architecture and the Arts Market of New Orleans.

37 ENTERTAINMENT XX Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus the Running of the Bulls and a salute to Bob Hope.

56 New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for family visitors, outdoor enthusiasts and music lovers.

ON THE COVER

XX

44

BAGGING THE BIG EASY

Big Easy bivalve

17

Hot shops and cool buys

ornaments, available at Bevolo Gas & Electric Lights. ©BRITTNEE ULMER

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus Blue Bike-sharing.

GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS

Emma's Oysters'

DINE

BELLY UP TO THE BAR

PLAY

THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS

EXPLORE

MUSEUM EXHIBITS JULY 2018

wheretraveler.com E~NO-WM_180700_01_Cover.indd 4

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6/5/18 9:21 PM

NAVIGATE

where now

XX

50

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus plantations’ starring roles.

14 City Style

Ten cool shops to explore.

16 Out + About

A snoball app, tricentennial exhibits and Fourth fun.

CONNECT WITH US

17 Local Flavor

25 things we love about New Orleans.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

Grab a seat at the bar, mixing cocktails with music and bourbon-punched cornbread.

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 53-55

(LEFT) ©JENNIFER MITCHELL PHOTOGRAPHY; (CENTER, TOP) ©KATHY ANDERSON/NEWORLEANS.COM; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK

Essence Fest Partying with a purpose, Tales of the Cocktail, Sam Smith and 19 other entertainment ideas to add to your list.

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Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Elijah Bradshaw Concierge at the W French Quarter Q: What one place best exemplifies the concept of Crescent City cool?

Saint Claude Social Club (1933 Sophie Wright Pl., 504.218.8987) offers a very edgy, modern shopping experience and really embodies the colorful spirit of New Orleans.

Q: Name three hot new restaurants.

A: Longway Tavern (719 Toulouse St., no phone); I’ve been there a lot. I could eat their English pea dish daily and never get sick of it. Auction House Market (p. 20) is a great spot for a taste of the contemporary New Orleans food scene. And Paloma Café (p. 26); it’s my go-to casual dining spot. You’ll often find me there with a yuca frita and pollo frito—and a cocktail, of course.

Q: Tales of the Cocktail takes place his month. What’s your favorite summertime libation?

A: A Negroni, hands down…even though I drink them year-round. My favorite place to have one is at my favorite restaurant, Coquette (p. 26). They have smoky Negroni that I really love.

Q: Essence Fest or the Running of the Bulls, where are we most likely to find you?

A: Essence Fest. It’s been a few years since I’ve been, but I’ll be there this year, because I love Erykah Badu. I also really enjoy the empowerment sessions at the Convention Center.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©PALOMA CAFÉ

Q: What do you love most about New Orleans?

A: The people, and how you can have a different experience in every neighborhood.

Paloma Café

9

EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY

A LOOK BACK

Where We Were BRING NEW ORLEANS HOME S T E R L I N G S I LV E R J E W E L R Y INSPIRED BY NEW ORLE ANS

719 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70116 504.522.9222 © 2018 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved

This year marks Where New Orleans’ 50th anniversary. To commemorate the mid-century milestone, we opened our archives, dusted off back issues and throughout 2018 will be revisiting years past. This month we set the wayback machine to 1998.

Our July cover featured a flag fashioned from crab and crawfish—a salute to America’s independence and Louisiana’s seafood industry. The fourth annual Essence Fest brought Ray Charles, Luther Vandross, Teena Marie and Rick James to town, while the sixth Wine and Food Experience imported vintners from around the globe.

Wine Spectator named Anne Kearney (Peristyle) and Dominique Macquet (Dominique’s) among “America’s hottest young chefs,” while Wine & Food crowned the red-hot Red Room “Best New Orleans Restaurant.” Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse debuted, followed by Smith & Wollensky, and we caught up with Emeril Lagasse, who tied Susan Spicer (Bayona) as top chef in Where’s Visitor Choice Awards.

With weekly gigs at Donna’s and Vaughan’s, trumpeter Kermit Ruffins was “well on his way to becoming the city’s next musical ambassador,” while Frenchmen Street had established itself as the “locals’ Bourbon.” Koslow’s was pushing nutria fur, Three Dog Bakery was “a howling success” and Pat O’Brien’s celebrated 65 years with $1.50 Hurricanes. And at year’s end, vampire novelist Anne Rice opened her Garden District manse for holiday home tours.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

in the world

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

WHERE CALENDAR JULY

For more information: wheretraveler.com

HOT DATES

TOP STOPS 16 additional events and ideas worth entertaining.

CHAMPIONS SQUARE July 10: Paramore with Foster the People. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000; champions-square.com HOUSE OF BLUES July 16: Lake Street Dive; July 24: La Santa Cecilia; July 28: Beatles Fest; July 30: The English Beat. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583; hob.com ORPHEUM THEATER July 22: Blind Boys of Alabama; July 26: “Mary Poppins.”

129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870; orpheumnola.com

JULY 5-8:

Essence Festival

How do you top Fourth of July fireworks? With Jill Scott, Miguel, Erykah Badu, The Roots and Snoop Dogg taking the stage at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome July 5 for the opening night of 24th-annual “party with a purpose.” More than 40 top-tier acts follow, with Mary J. Blige and Queen Latifah headlining on Saturday and Janet Jackson and Fantasia closing things out the next evening. During the day, it’s all about the free empowerment sessions at the Morial Convention Center, which feature a wide range of speakers, from Rev. Al Sharpton to CBS correspondent (and former first lady of New Orleans) Michelle Miller. essence.com/festival "The Princess and the Frog"

caption here

5

Great Things Not to Be Missed

1 THERESA CAPUTO > JULY 12 The “Long Island Medium” heads south for a two-night engagement at the Saenger Theatre, where she packed the place in 2014. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

2 THE PRINCESS AND THE FROG > JULY 12 The New Orleans-themed animated Disney movie screens for free at 7 pm, as part of the Orpheum Theater’s annual summer film series.

129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870

TALES OF THE COCKTAIL > JULY 1722 Shaken and stirred, the “world’s premier cocktail festival” returns for its 16th season with new 3

Tales of the Cocktail

ownership, a renewed focus and five days of hard-earned hangovers. Headquartered at the Hotel Monteleone (214 Royal St.), the boozy affair features related events all over town. talesofthecocktail.com.

4 SAM SMITH > JULY 17 The Grammy-, Golden Globe- and Oscarwinning singer/songwriter pulls into the Smoothie King Center on his “Thrill of It All” tour. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3822

5 LOUISIANA STORY > JULY 28 The 1948 movie about life on the bayou is the only film to have received a Pulitzer for its score. Catch its 70th anniversary screening, with live accompaniment by the 2018 Grammy-winning Lost Bayou Ramblers, at the Joy Theater. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569

For a full calendar of events, go to wheretraveler.com/new-orleans/local-events 12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

SAENGER THEATRE July 6: The Best of Both Worlds Comedy Show; July 13: Alison Krauss; July 21: Cheap Trick. 1111 Canal St. 800.745.3000; saengernola.com SPOTTED CAT MUSIC CLUB July 3: Smokin’ Time Jazz Club; July 14: Shotgun Jazz Band; July 28: Panorama Jazz Band.

623 Frenchmen St.; spottedcatmusicclub.com STAGE DOOR CANTEEN July 11 & 25: “The Best of Sinatra.” 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943; stagedoorcanteen.org THREE KEYS July 1: Juju Child & the Hypnotic Roots; July 21: Muevelo & Bookoo Rueda. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180; threekeysnola.com

(TOP) ©ESSENCE FESTIVAL; (CENTER) WALT DISNEY ANIMATION RESEARCH LIBRARY COLLECTION ©DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC.; (BOTTOM) ©JENNIFER MITCHELL PHOTOGRAPHY

Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com

where now New Orleans

The city’s top attractions, entertainment, dining and more

Hot Shops and Cool Finds Ten stores you need to step into Krewe

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

CITY STYLE

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

handcrafted cutting and serving boards fashioned from local woods—along with hand-carved spoons, wine-bottle holders and regionally sourced edible items.

The get: The Wild CHOP-itoulas board, made from sinker cypress walnut, maple and cherry.

519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.435.1485

(TOP) ©THE CAJUN HATTER; (CENTER) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM LEFT) ©DIRTY COAST; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ©TASC; (OPENING PAGE) ©KREWE

The Cajun Hatter

During steamy summer months, one can lose their appetite for shopping. In an effort to lure shoppers in, many local retailers crank up the AC and pump it out through open doors, while others offer hard-to-resist seasonal specials to stimulate sales. You’ll find dozens and dozens—and dozens—of great stores to explore around the city. Here are 10 of the coolest to get you started.

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The shop: Bevolo has four French Quarter locations. You’ll see its handcrafted copper lanterns being made at 316 Royal Street, and find equally elegant home accessories just next door.

The get: Can’t fit a gas light in the overhead bin? Take home a New Orleans map-enhanced oyster-shell ornament instead.

318 Royal St., 504.522.9485 THE CAJUN HATTER The shop: The cypress-tree knees rising from the floor and depictions of small-town New Iberia dotting the walls hint at self-made milliner Colby Hébert’s Cajun country roots.

The get: Custom-made “swamp chic” headwear, incorporating natural elements such as alligator

Dirty Coast

skin, beaver felt and rabbit fur.

4516 Magazine St., 504.875.4644 DIRTY COAST The shop: This popular T-shirt shop doubles as a keeper of Crescent City culture. NOLA-centric books, greeting cards, soaps (Spanish moss, seersucker), candles and enamel pins (Sazeracs, po’boys) make easyto-pack souvenirs.

The get: Select T-shirt designs are also available on canvas.

713 Royal St., 504.324.6730; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745 KREWE The shop: Its plain white walls and minimalist décor provide the perfect backdrop for designer Stirling Barrett’s way-cool eyewear. Chill with complimentary “frosé,” while choosing which style best fits your face.

The get: Barrett’s signature St. Louis collection was inspired by the city’s wrought-iron balconies.

809 Royal St., 504.407.2925 M.S. RAU The shop: One of the city’s oldest antiques dealers also ranks as one of the nation’s largest. At 25,000 square feet, it’s easy to spend

PEACHES RECORDS The shop: Located in a former Woolworth’s still with its original luncheonette counter, this longpopular vinyl vendor also offers cassettes, CDs and occasional in-store performances.

The get: Records, of course, both new and vintage, along with offbeat gift items like Big Freedia prayer candles.

4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322 QUEORK The shop: What started with the purchase of a dog collar while on vacation in Portugal has morphed into an eco-conscious industry, now with offshoots in New Mexico and Florida.

The get: Anything fashioned from cork—bags, shoes, aprons, umbrellas, jewelry…even dog collars.

838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803

Queork

hours exploring the stellar collection of 18th- and 19th-century art, jewelry and collectibles.

The get: Searching for a circa-1820, English mahogany dining table that seats 32? You’ll find it here.

630 Royal St., 504.523.5660 MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME The shop: The legacy of Madame Mamie O. Aucoin, “the oldest perfumer in the South,” lingers on, thanks to her great grandnephew, who recently reopened shop in her former French Quarter residence.

The get: Artisanal fragrances for both sexes.

608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975

TASC The shop: Seersucker may be synonymous with Southern summer style, but this local, family-owned company is fast redefining the idea of Crescent City cool with its line of bamboo-blend “elevated essentials for everyday comfort.”

The get: Easygoing active wear “for every day, every shape and every activity.”

3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030 Tasc

NOLA BOARDS The shop: This small space overflows with “functional art”—i.e., 15

Orleans Tri These Exhibits The city’s yearlong 300th anniversary celebration continues this month with a number of tricentennial-themed exhibits at area museums.

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION African Heritage in New Orleans: 300 Years in the Making examines the African influence on the city’s evolution, while “New Orleans: Between Heaven and Hell,” an interactive pen-and-ink work by British artist Robin Reynolds highlighting historical influences on the modern-day city, provides a sneak peek of the contemporary-minded “Art of the City: Postmodern to PostKatrina” exhibit, which opens Oct. 1. hnoc.org NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART African-American, Vietnamese, LGBTQ: The city’s diverse cultural influences and social makeup is the focus of Changing Course: Reflecting on New Orleans Histories. The forward-thinking exhibit, which combines seven separate projects,

OUT+ABOUT

Snoballs On Call “Kids love them. Adults argue about them. They give you brain freezes, color your lips, and sometimes your shirt, but most of all they make you happy.”

Since the 1930s, when “Italian ice” carts roamed the French Quarter, New Orleanians have had a summertime love affair with shaved ice topped with flavored syrup. Hansen’s Sno-Bliz (p. 27) is the city’s oldest and arguably most-popular vendor, but there are numerous other stands worth seeking out as well. The new New Orleans Snoball Finder puts more than 50 at your fingertips. Searchable by location and 300-plus flavors (from almond and amaretto to watermelon and wedding cake), the free smart-phone app also breaks options into all-natural and sugar-free categories. How cool is that?

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

looks at how issues of race, class and social justice have evolved locally over the years. noma.org NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM Made up of 300 objects culled from the Tulane University archives, Empire, a wide-ranging assemblage by the Los Angelesbased Fallen Fruit art team, touches on everything from colonialism and slavery to trade and tourism. newcombartmuseum.tulane.edu OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART A Precise Vision spotlights artist Jim Blanchard, who spent the past 30 years researching and rendering the city’s lost architectural wonders (and still-standing masterpieces) in meticulous, ink-and-watercolor detail. Also on view: Salazar: Portraits of Influence in Spanish New Orleans. ogdenmuseum.org

“Changing Course”

DUAL CITIZENSHIP New Orleans celebrates its allegiance to two countries this month with America’s Independence Day (July 4) and France’s Bastille Day (July 14). The Marine Corps Band gets the patriotic party started early July 3 with a performance at City Park (p. 37) at 7 pm, followed by fireworks. But the big blowout takes place the following evening at 9 pm with the Go 4th on the River display, which is preceeded by live music at Crescent Park (p. 37), beginning at 5:30 pm. The French Consulate mounts its Bastille Day Fête July 13 at the New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 41), while Café Degas (p. 26) hosts the Faubourg St. John Bastille Day Block Party July 14 at 4:30 pm in the oldest French neighborhood in America’s caption

most French city.

(TOP) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; (CENTER) ©NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART; (BOTTOM) ©KATHY ANDERSON/NEWORLEANS.COM

WHERE NOW New

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

LOCAL FLAVOR

25 Things We Love About New Orleans In honor of the city’s tricentennial, each month during 2018 we are highlighting a few of our favorite things (25 x 12 = 300).

Have one of your own? Share it with us at wheretraveler.com, and we’ll consider it for the next issue.

1

The local brewery resurgence, helping re-establish the city as “the Brewing Capital of the South.”

13

2

14

Sweeping river views from the 11th floor lobby of the Westin Canal Place (p. 55).

(TOP) ©STUDIO SOLITARIO; (CENTER, LEFT) ©RANDY SCHMIDT; (CENTER, RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM

Brandan Odums’ mural of the Buddy Bolden Band on the side of the Little Gem Saloon (p.

42), where early jazz greats once performed—and their present-day counterparts still do.

3 4

The simple—and simply delicious—grilled whole fish at Pêche (p. 22).

15

Rummaging through salvaged pieces of the past at Ricca Architectural Sales (p. 31).

The art deco, travel-themed murals at Lakefront Airport.

The annual dueling-barge fireworks display over the Mississippi.

16

French Quarter balconies adorned with “Romeo spikes,” designed to keep amorous suitors from shimmying up posts.

6

17

Getting our daily dose of calcium with a frozen Bourbon milk punch (or two) at Bourbon House (p. 23).

5

Conquering the towering Mile High Pie at Jack Rose in the Pontchartrain Hotel (2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500).

6 7

18 19

Billy Solitario’s (p. 36) magnificent coastal “cloudscapes.”

The free Artful Palate cooking demos (Fridays at 6 pm, beginning July 13) at the New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 41).

Fresh-from-the-fryer cracklins at Toups’ Meatery (p. 27).

Shopping local at the locally sourced grocery Simone’s Market (p. 30).

5

1

20 21

Essence Fest’s annual fashion influx.

10

22 23

Getting “gored” during the Running of the Bulls.

11

24

Shopping all six retailpacked miles of Magazine

8

The new Musical Historical Train Tour chugging around City Park (p. 37).

PB&J pancakes, served with a side of burlesque, during the Sunday Eggs & Legs brunch at SoBou (p. 25).

9

The fresh-shucked bivalves and flaming Holy Water cocktail at Seaworthy (p. 23).

Disembarking the Creole Queen (p. 38) to explore historic Chalmette Battlefield.

The WPA-era murals lining the walls of the Roosevelt Hotel’s Sazerac Bar (p. 42).

Giving our arteries a rest with a Wellness Bowl from the Daily Beet (p. 20).

Street.

12

Tipitina’s (p. 42) summerlong Foundation Free Fridays performances (catch Corey Henry’s Tremé Funktet July 13).

25

25

Atchafalaya’s (p. 26) giant cast skillet and build-yourown bloody Mary bar.

17

Orleans Give It a Spin Retro vinyl meets cuttingedge cocktail culture.

La Petite Grocery FOOD+DRINK

Grazing the Bar I dine alone—a lot—and often with a seat at the bar.

Whether dining solo, duo or in a small group, the experience can be entertaining, convivial, quick and, with the right bartender, include a little lagniappe.

While not all restaurant bars are equal, there are certain New Orleans restaurants where a table is nice, but possibly the best seat in the house is at the bar.

COZY COUNTERS About 10 seats are available for front-row viewing of the ballet of salad-tossing and pasta-making at Paladar 511 (p. 26), where too much pasta for a table’s entrée often becomes a complimentary bar bite. More sedate but equally fun, the bar La Petite Grocery (p. 27) is great for people-watching, crab beignets, insanely good burgers and a bottle of wine. The three bar seats at Del Fuego (p 27) are excellent spots for the city’s best margaritas, loaded guacamole and perfect fish tacos.

The sleeper: The Italian institution Venezia (p. 27) is very popular and very busy, but bartenders also serve diners at the bar even amid the fracas. With luck the three bar seats on the left side will be available.

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

APPETIZING ATMOSPHERE Fresh-shucked oysters, steak tartare, grilled whole fish: The bar at Pêche (p. 22) is tops for lunch or dinner. Bartenders at The Country Club (p. 26) not only mix a good drink, they’re fun and get chef Chris Barbato’s incredible mussels and house fries to you without a hiccup. The staff at Meril (p. 22) sees to it that bar dining is equal to table service. A gin-based No. 20 and an order of Candied Pork Ribs is dining perfection.

The sleeper: The bar at New Orleans Seafood & Hamburger Co. (4141 St. Charles Ave. 504.247.9753) is bright, lively and perfect for easygoing fried seafood and beer.

Why wait for a table when there’s a dining spot at the bar?

Belly up! —Lorin Gaudin

Some time ago, buried in a story about a local restaurant and bar, was an offhand comment about a bartender making his own cola and a one-liner about mood, music and cocktails. Novel at the time, bartender Murf Reeves was doing something others weren’t...yet.

Ahead of the game in a very what’sold-is-new-again way, Reeves is at it again. Currently gathering menu inspiration for the reboot of Angeline (the restaurant is relocating), Reeves—a music geek and veteran jockey at WWOZ radio—combines mood with music, food and drink.

Curating playlists for restaurants, he weaves memory, history, booze, flavors and lyrics (what he calls “mood mirepoix”) into an experience.

And he does it with vinyl. “People are strung out on technology,” he quips, “so I use vinyl as a push-

back.” Feeling meditative, he might mix a Manhattan and throw on a crackly, soulful Miles Davis album.

Pairing vinyl and cocktails isn’t a passing fancy, it’s a deep groove.

Other local bars and cafés are embracing the vinyl revolution, too. Check out Vinyl Tuesdays at the Erin Rose Bar (811 Conti St., 504.522.3573), Burlesque and Vinyl at Santos (1135 Decatur St., 504.605.3533) and DJ and Tacos at Coffee Science (410 S. Broad St., 504.814.0878). A bit of nostalgia, music, food and drink is a sound idea. —LG

Reeves

LAST BITE At Carrollton Market (p. 27), a decidedly French-inspired restaurant, there is also lot of Southern soul. Restaurant manager Dusty Mars was thinking about the leftover cornbread from weekend brunch, when he was flooded by memories of his Arkansas grandfather who loved cornbread and despised waste. Grandad ate a lot of cornbread; some went with beans for supper, while leftovers became breakfast, crumbled and topped with a little milk and honey. Grandad also loved bourbon. Mars shared his memory musings with bartender Isabel McDaniel, which resulted in a clever collaboration.

Grandad’s Cornbread— crumbled cornbread, bourbon milk punch, bourbon honey, seasonal fruit and chantilly cream served in a brandy snifter—is textural, sweet and potent. Carrollton Market chef/owner Jason Goodenough calls it “boozy AF”; we call it genius. —LG

(TOP) ©MARIANNA MASSEY; (CENTER) ©JOSH BRASTED; (BOTTOM) ©CARROLLTON MARKET

WHERE NOW New

the guide Global Market

Win-Win Situation

The burgeoning Big Easy food-hall scene continues to expand with the recent opening of Pythian Market (234 Loyola Ave., 504.605.0414). Located in the historic Pythian Temple building, which once housed numerous black-owned businesses and organizations, the cheerful space offers a variety of vendors, each reflecting different cultures and flavors.

From 14 Parishes’ Jamaican cuisine and Fete au Fete’s Creole/Cajun comfort food to La Cocinita’s South American street fare and Eat Well’s modern Vietnamese dishes, there’s something to satisfy even the pickiest of palates. Did we mention the 1908 Bar’s frozen watermelon cocktails?

Looking for a real winner? Grab a seat at Compère Lapin (p. 20) for 2018 James Beard “Best Chef South” awardee Nina Compton’s signature Caribbean-inflected cuisine. Or check out her new Bywater American Bistro (p. 26, shown), where hogs head boudin shares menu space with rabbit curry.

Central Business/ Warehouse District

CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Frito pie served in the bag, meatloaf with garlic-mashed potatoes and onion rings and “Victory Garden” carrot cake. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.ww2eats.com.

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic. Sister to

St. Roch Market, this bright, modern food hall offers a wide variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local Gulf seafood to Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiian-inspired cuisines. $ B, L, D (daily). www. auctionhousemarket.com. 801 Magazine St., no phone. Map 3, C3 BRIQUETTESeafood. Contemporary coastal is the

catch at this sprawling Warehouse District space.

Follow the lobster-andouille tamale with a lump crab-and-pickled mirliton salad then dive into broiled sea scallops with cheddar grits or a grilled whole redfish. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.briquettenola. com. 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7

COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

THE DAILY BEETVegetarian. Light, healthy eats and

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes with pickled pinneapple tartar sauce, spiced pig ears, jerk black drum and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? Coconut panna cotta with mango and strawberries, please. $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (SaSu). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6

cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrialchic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an “Orbit” bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. $ B, L, D (daily). www.thedailybeetnola.com. 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, B4 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 FLAMINGO AGOGO Eclectic. This sprawling

space features a massive patio, 35 taps pouring

(LEFT) ©PYTHIAN MARKET; (RIGHT) ©BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO

Dining July

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 53-55.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................20

French Quarter.........................................................................................23 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 26 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................26 Mid-City..........................................................................................................26 Uptown..........................................................................................................27

beer, wine and batched “flocktails” and latenight bites until 2 am. Tuck into poke bowls and flatbreads at lunch or go big with Hawaiian steak kabobs for dinner. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (SaSu). www.flamingonola.com. 869 Magazine St., 504.577.2202. Map 3, B6 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. The “Peanut Butter Pie Budino” is a must for dessert. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan

Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

DINING

wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5

SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5

French Quarter ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren

of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

“Shrimp Arnaud,” “Oysters Bienville” and “Café Brûlot” are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BACKSPACE BAR & KITCHEN American. Typewrit-

ers and books line the walls of this comfy spot, which pays homage to the French Quarter’s rich literary legacy. The bar serves drinks fashioned after famed authors’ faves, while the kitchen offers gumbo and sandwiches. Try the “Whitman—roast beef with fried oysters and Swiss on ciabatta. $ L, D (daily). www.backspacenola.com. 139 Chartres St., 504.322.2245. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

a New Orleans must-do. The legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster), coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and

delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. $ B, L, D (daily).

Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu.

Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ D (nightly). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola.com.

301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop with superior quality dryaged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list, though the handsome remodel of the historic space is alone worth a visit. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.

His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LANDRY’S SEAFOODSeafood. Landry’s

locations fittingly offer sweeping views of the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain. The menu is loaded with a wide array of Louisiana

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018 NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

coastal cuisine, from shrimp po’ boys to trout meunière, in addition to other specialties. $$ L, D (daily). www.landrysseafood.com. 620 Decatur St., 504.581.9825. Map 3, G5; 504.283.1010. Map 1, D1 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. $$ L (MSa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro. com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com.

132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Plaace offers sweeping views of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this ca-

sual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com.

309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com

Now Serving Lunch

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www. revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south of

Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates. $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ATCHAFALAYA Creole. Look for the giant cast-

iron skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and menu standouts such as free-form crab ravioli and pan-seared Gulf fish with twice-cooked fingerlings and Vidalia onion beurre blanc. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Th-M). www.atchafalayarestaurant. com. 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4 COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you mix

traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com.

2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BYWATER AMERICAN BISTROAmerican. The menu

at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried Gulf oysters with oyster gravy and jasmine rice; try the rabbit curry. $$ D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www.bywateramericanbistro.com. 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans. com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away

PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PALOMA CAFÉ Latin. This cozy Bywater corner spot

puts out smart, Latin-inspired dishes. The fried cod fritters, chorizo-and-egg biscuits, mojo-roasted pork on fried green plantains and flan are all top picks. $ B, L, D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www.palomanola. com. 800 Louisa St., 504.304.3062. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5

Mid-City CAFÉ DEGAS French. Artist Edgar Degas briefly

lived a few blocks from this café bearing his name.

The patio provides the perfect setting for such signature French fare as escargots, lamb, roasted

26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

Put the power of Where® in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

DINING

duck and an array of daily specials. $$ L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www.cafedegas.com. 3127 Esplanade Ave., 504.945.5635. Map 1, D2 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Restaurateur

Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.ralphsonthepark.com.

900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3 VENEZIA Italian. A throwback to the the 1950s,

the menu here runs the gamut from lasagna and stuffed shells to veal Marsala and spaghetti in five different preparations. House specialties include pizza topped with breaded veal. $$ L (W-F and Su), D (W-Su). www.venezianeworleans.com. 134 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.488.7991. Map 1, D2

Uptown CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Visit us at Crazy Lobster Destin. Located in the Village of Baytowne Wharf

Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet.

No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough— flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ L (Th-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (SaSu). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 1, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots before devouring the chicken fried rabbit or turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DEL FUEGO Mexican. Chef David Wright’s ramped-

up taqueria is based on recipes gathered during his travels to Mexico. Housemade tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.delfuegotaqueria.com. 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797. Map 1, D4 HANSEN’S SNOBLIZ Dessert. SInce 1934 locals

have been lining up for Hansen’s signature snowballs. Topped with a huge assortment of made-from-scratch syrups, the shaved-ice treats are a summer must-have. www.snobliz.com. 4801 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.891.9788. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate French

bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or shrimp and grits. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans land-

Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard 510 Toulouse St. | 504.524.9632 | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

Shopping Hot Commodity Bottled Hell. Pain & Suffering. Lethal Ingestion. You’ll find hundreds of kitschynamed hot sauce brands lining local retail shelves, each battling for beyond-brainsearing rights. But there’s only one that’s labeled in 22 languages and sold in more than 165 countries: Tabasco. Since the late 1860s, when founder Edmund McIlhenny first harvested his Capsicum frutescens peppers and mixed them with Avery Island salt, the state’s signature hot sauce has been a favorite worldwide. In celebration of its 150th anniversary, Tabasco recently released a limited edition Diamond Reserve Sauce. Available only at tabasco. com, the mash is aged up to 15 years then blended with sparkling white wine vinegar, resulting in “the Champagne of pepper sauce.” Hardcore hot sauce lover?

Invest in a sterling Tabasco holder from New Orleans Silversmiths (p. 36).

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. www.beckhamsbookshop.com/. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 KITCHEN WITCH New, used and vintage

cookbooks are on the menu at this charming shop geared to foodies. Special emphasis is placed on hard-to-find Southern titles and rare volumes devoted to Creole and Cajun cuisine. www.kwcookbooks.com. 1452 Broad St., 504.528.8382. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www.lou-

isianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

standard Bourbon Street garb here.

Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky wheretraveler.com PEACHES RECORDS For nearly five graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired decades, this local chain has been slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal promoting area musicians with a large St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Maga504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 zine St.,. Map 1, D4 FLEURTY GIRL Lauren Haydel has become SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big a mini mogul, thanks largely to her popuon new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. lar line of women’s T-shirts celebrating local Imports, obscure albums and works by indepenculture. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine dent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1627 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3

Clothing

BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part

boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5; 504.484.9830.

DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New

Orleans couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your

H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-toresist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www. hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4 PERLIS Mudbug season lasts year-round at Perlis,

purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. In addition, Perlis carries such specialty items as Mardi Gras-hued rugby shirts. The place for classic seersucker suits. www.perlis.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.523.6681. Map 3, G5; 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661. Map 1, D4

NEARLY 18 MILLION tourists visited New Orleans during 2017, spending $885 million at local shops and generating more than $8.7 billion in total revenue.

28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

©MCILLHENNY CO.

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 53-55.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 28

Clothing........................................................................................................ 28 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 30 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 30 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 30 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 31 Home & Garden.................................................................................... 31 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 31 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 32 Shoes............................................................................................................... 33 Special Services...................................................................................... 33

PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child at this

upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish European shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. www.pippenlane.com. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4 TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line

of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its eco-conscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. www.tascperformance.com. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4 TRASHY DIVA Candice Gwinn’s popular cloth-

ing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4

Gifts & Collectibles BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRESearching for a set of

custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. www.feelthebite.com. 709 St. Ann St., 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4 BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM

Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré. www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop, you’ll find

fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery— along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. www.shopforeverneworleans. com. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures.

New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.littletoyshopnola.com/. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s bou-

tique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 SANTA’S QUARTERS Need a little Christmas right

this very minute? Load up the sleigh at this holidaythemed shop—the South’s largest—selling nativity sets, specialty lights and locally crafted ornaments

year-round. www.santasquartersno.com. 1025 Decatur St., 504.581.5820. Map 3, H5 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.891.1026. Map 1, D4 MARTIN WINE CELLAR Wine Spectator has recog-

nized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4; 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504.896.7300. Map 1, C2 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4; 4500 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.7910.; 400 N. Carrollton Ave, 504.488.2129.

SIMONE’S MARKETA small, independent grocery

devoted to thoughtfully selected local and regional products. Prepared foods are also available, along with daily deli specials. www.simonesmarket.com.

8201 Oak St., 504.273.7706. Map 3, C3 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2

Hats & Accessories BELLA UMBRELLA Cloudy skies? This shop helps

you keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrella. www.bellaumbrella.com.

2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4 FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4

SHOPPING

GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803. Map 1, D4

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

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has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME“The oldest perfumer

3436 Magazine St. | 504.899.5415

National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church

V Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing V Religious Articles V Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street) (504) 525-2495 seelos.org

in the South” lives on thanks to her great grandnephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines, such as Ormond Jayne, Memo and Eight & Bob, are featured. www.madameaucoinperfume.com. 608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975. Map 3, F4 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa provides

a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.lushusa. com. 301 Burgundy St., 504.525.8266. Map 3, F3 SEPHORA The local branch of the nation’s leading

cosmetics and perfume retailer offers more than 13,000 products from 200-plus brands, all of which can be tested on-site. www.sephora.com. 414 N. Peters St., 504.561.9889. Map 3, F5 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3;

212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

Home & Garden THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5525 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.516.2601. Map 3, G4 RICCA ARCHITECTURAL SALES Accessible via the

Canal streetcar, this Mid-City warehouse is packed with retro Southern splendor rescued from demolished buildings. Hard-to-find antique hardware and stained-glass windows merely hint at the offerings. www.riccasarchitecturalsales.com. 511 N. Solomon St., 504.488.5524. Map 1, D2 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. www.shoprouxroyale.com. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 SHAUN SMITH HOME “Simplicity is at the core of

my aesthetic sense,” says designer Shaun Smith, whose chic home boutique is a study in the art of blending styles and periods. Vamped-up vintage furnishings meld seamlessly with modern designs. www.shaunsmithhome.com. 3947 Magazine St., 504.896.1020. Map 1, D4 SPRUCE Does your space need a spruce up? Start

by stopping in at this eco-conscious interiors studio. Funky fabrics, one-of-a-kind wallpaper and design consultation services are offered. www.sprucenola.com. 2043 Magazine St., 504.265.0946. Map 1, D4

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. artandeyesneworleansla.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 BIJOU NOLA A small shop big on handcrafted

designs by local and international artists. Designs accented with gemstones in 14-kt. gold, sterling silver, stainless steel and titanium are w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

THE GUIDE

featured. www.bijounola.com. 635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001. Map 3, G4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St.

Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs-de-lis are prominent, with more than 75 different designs featured. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4

AROUND THE bea SQUARE bea

Experience the Charm of the Historic French Quarter A

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GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-

nered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 PORTER LYONSJewelry designer Ashley Lyons is

a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-andmortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5 WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

mid-century modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to themselves, or to friends, then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4

Malls/Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within walking distance of the CBD and French Quarter. www.riverwalkne-

32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

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SHOPPING

worleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Shoes CHARLESTON SHOE CO.This national retailer’s

“cobblestones to cocktails shoe” designs are the perfect fit for on-the-go women who want to stay comfortable and stylish all day long. www. charlestonshoeco.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 102, 855.996.7462. Map 3, G5; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 855.996.7463. Map 3, E5 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. www.shoebedousa.com.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In addi-

tion to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.net. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 LA CIRE CONDOMINIUMSWhat was once a wax

museum is now a state-of-the-art condo complex.

The 16 units feature new construction melded with century-old exposed brick, private terraces and covered parking. The rooftop deck offers killer views, a heated pool and two hot tubs. www. lacirecondos.com. 917 Conti St., 504.528.8090. ext.

1 Map 3, F3 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 THE WILKINSONJust off Jackson Square, this

complex features one- and two-bedroom luxury apartments with high ceilings, walk-in closets and top-of-the-line appliances. The pet-friendly property also offers a doorman, controlled entry access and corporate housing. www.thewilkinsonat519. com. 519 WIlkinson St., 504.218.8298. Map 3, G5

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 33

THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques

If You Build It, They Will Come

Market Value

With its mix of influences, strict preservation laws and penchant for the past, New Orleans is a mecca for architecture fans. Visitors with a passion for design should also check out the Constructing Worlds: Intersections of Art and Architecture exhibit at Octavia Gallery (p.

34). Spotlighting four diverse artists, each with their own style—Belgium’s Pierre Berigan’s near-empty spatial paintings (shown left), New Yorker Jeff Goldenberg’s urban skylines, Maine-based Greta Van Campen’s contemporary graphic designs and New Orleanian (and founder of Tulane ’s Regional Urban Design Center) Grover Mouton’s hand-drawn work on papers (center)—the grouping explores the connection between fine art and architecture.

Searching for the next big thing? You’re likely to find it July 28, during the Arts Market of New Orleans (p. 36). Easily accessible by streetcar, the monthly event takes place in Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne Avenues) and features works from between 80 and 130 area artisans, such as popular painter Michael Guidry (shown).

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6

STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The preeminent exhibition space for vast majority of copper and brass gas African-American artists, featuring lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, wheretraveler.com restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer Choose from a selection of available styles, and Samella Lewis, among others. www. or have fixtures custom-built on-site. www. stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, bevolo.com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features

DURING THE EARLY 1800s, artist and naturalist John James Audubon drew inspiration from Louisiana’s native wildlife for his groundbreaking Birds in America series.

34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

(LEFT AND CENTER) ©OCTAVIA ART GALLERY; (RIGHT) ©MICHAEL GUIDRY

Central Business/ Warehouse District

THE GUIDE

a n tiques

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 53-55.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 34

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 34 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................46 Collectives.....................................................................................................46

Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photog-

rapher Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques.

Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. www.modernistcuisinegallery. com. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHSSince 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. www.neworleanssilversmiths. com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, FG OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. Originals, giclées and prints are offered, along with live-painting event services. www.artgallerynola.com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4

d e p r o v e n c e, l l c F R E N C H

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J A R D I N S

VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4

FRENCH ANTIQUES • GARDEN & LIGHTING FRENCH ART • MIRRORS • OLIVE JARS NEW SOFA SHOWROOM! 623 ROYA L ST. FREN CH Q UA RT ER 50 4. 529. 4 342 A N T I Q U E S D E P R O V E N C E.C O M

STUDIO SOLITARIO Monet, Hopper, Sargent:

Solitario’s artistic influences are evident in his stunning coastal landscapes and still-life studies.

Counted among the Ogden Museum’s permanent collection, his works are also available for purchase at his Uptown gallery. www.billysolitario.com. 4531 Magazine St., 504.905.4175. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Artist Osborne has

garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned

by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for

undiscovered talent? Pay a visit to this gallery, which features works by dozens of regional artists.

Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3

6 17 B i e n v i l l e S t r e e t

New Orleans

Sun–Wed: 10–6 | Thu–Sat: 10–9 michalopoulos .com

THE GUIDE

(LEFT) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; (RIGHT) PROVIDED BY THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM AND COURTESY OF THE BOB & DELORES HOPE FOUNDATION COLLECTION, THE WORLD GOLF HALL OF FAME & MUSEUM

Entertainment

Panic In the Streets

Hope Springs Eternal

What do you get when you take thousands of red-and-white-attired runners, add hundreds of plastic bat-wielding roller skaters, mix in an abundance of booze and pour into the streets of the Central Business District? An only-in-New Orleans event you have to see to fully appreciate the silliness of. Now in its 12th year, the Running of the Bulls (nolabulls.com), a salute to Spain’s annual encierro, kicks off July 14 at 8 am from the Sugar Mill (1201 Convention Center Blvd.). The ridiculously fun fiesta continues long into the evening and picks up again the next day at noon at Barcadia (p. 42) with an Ernest Hemingway lookalike contest.

When American troops went to war in the 1940s, comedian Bob Hope went with them, taking his variety show to military camps and bases in an effort to help boost morale. Hope’s wartime contributions and lasting legacy are examined in So Ready for Laughter, a new exhibit at National WWII Museum (p. 41).

Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to

insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. wheretraveler.com JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 Quarter was originally known as Place ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from d’Armes d’Armes, and was renamed to honor PresiSt. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open daily dent Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.audubonsquare. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, world’s largest float builder. The tour features a larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. video on the history of Mardi Gras. $22 adults/ neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., children, $17 seniors/students with college ID, 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 $14 ages 11-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. www.

CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront Located one block from the Magazine Street promenade. www.crescentparknola.org. Map 3, J6 shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, as a native American trading post. Along with Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free homegrown specialties, the market also features a tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. 1100 N. Peters appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleans-themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.

NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open

PIRATE’S ALLEY, which runs alongside St. Louis Cathedral, is allegedly where general Andrew Jackson and pirate Jean Lafitte plotted out the Battle of New Orleans. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 37

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3/29/18

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 53-55.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................37 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................38 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 41 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 42 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 42

The ONLY Non-Profit Touring Organization Dedicated to Cemetery Promotion, Preservation, Restoration & Education.

M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with private outings. Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. www.celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket: $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. Tales & Tastes: Your Ultimate Food and Cocktail Tour –Th-Su, 7 pm; call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

Join us for walking tours through some of the most fascinating cemeteries in New Orleans. Reserve at SaveOurCemeteries.org or call 504-525-3377.

SaveOurCemeteries.org

1:57 PM

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THE GUIDE

GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2.25 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs. For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am and 1:15 pm from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.).

Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 and

7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www. hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and in-

formed at the same time. Groups meet at the corner of Decatur and Barracks streets. www.neworleansjoggingtours.com. 504.858.9988 Map 3, I5 NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOURThese

guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs nightly at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. www.spiritsandspellstour.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5 STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from 701 Royal St.; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

WHEEL FUN RENTALS This company offers a vari-

ety of ways to explore City Park—on bikes, kayaks, 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 am - 4 pm by Admission

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

pedal boats, paddle boards and more. Open daily at 10 am. www.wheelfunrenatals.com. Big Lake Trail, City Park, 504.300.1289. Map 1, D2

Museums & Exhibits CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM

Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $10 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5.www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries. The free Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20thcentury artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM The Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa, 11 am-4 pm. newcombartmuseum.tulane. edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free). Open Fri-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 41

THE GUIDE

10 A.M. UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6

Cocktails BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-

school games are the draw...along with 30-plus beers on tap. barcadianola.com. 601 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 RICK’S CABARET This 18,000-sq.-ft. venue—named

one of “America’s Best Strip Clubs” by Playboy— offers two floors, a great sound system and a private VIP section. www.iknowrick.com. 315 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, F4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans. www.therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 URBAN SOUTH BREWING Housed in a 19th-century

warehouse, this modern-minded brewery is out to “re-establish New Orleans as the beer capital of the South.” www.urbansouthbrewery.com. 1645 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.267.4852. Map 1, E4

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside

the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. Music nightly at 8 pm; retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. www. sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz

landmark is once again a player on the city’s livemusic scene, with performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic,

always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477 Map 1, D4

42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

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THE GUIDE

Navigate Something Borrowed, Something Blue

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2019.

44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

©JASON COHEN

How best to navigate around New Orleans and squeeze in a little exercise at the same time? On one of the 700-plus Blue Bikes that recently hit the streets.

The city’s new municipal bicycle-sharing program, in partnership with Blue Cross/ Blue Shield of Louisiana (hence their color), offers an easy alternative to Uber with dozens of rental/drop-off stations stretching from the French Quarter to City Park and between the Bywater and Garden District neighborhoods. Riders register on the Blue Bikes website or app, where they receive account and pin numbers needed to unlock the bikes, which rent for $8 an hour and can be dropped off at any rack station citywide.

For additional information and a map of locations, visit bluebikesnola.com…and get rolling.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 53-55.

Index General Information........................................................................... 44 Nearby Destinations............................................................................45 Cajun Country...........................................................................................45 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 45 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 45 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................45 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................45 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 45 Transportation ....................................................................................... 44

CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes and other modern

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map by

Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include the Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts.

Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communi-

ties, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. Vermillion Parish, “the most Cajun place on earth,” draws outdoor enthusiasts with its hunting, fishing and some of the best birding in the country. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory. www.lafayettetravel.com; www.vermillion.org.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com.

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. 800.688.2732; www.houmatravel.com. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 45

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Ready for Their Close-Ups With their centuries-old oaks, ornate architecture and period-perfect furnishings, Louisiana’s plantations are a Hollywood location scout’s dream. Visit Houmas House, and you’ll see pictures of Bette Davis adorning the bedroom she stayed in while shooting 1964’s “Hush…

Hush, Sweet Charlotte,” which also filmed at picturesque Oak Alley (shown), which you’ll recognize from its star turns in everything from 1984’s “Interview With the Vampire” to Beyoncé’s 2006 “Déjà Vu” video. “Vampire” also shot at Destrehan, along with “12 Years a Slave.”

Scenes from “Slave” were likewise filmed at St. Joseph, which was the setting for 2016’s remake of “Roots” and 2017’s “Mudbound.” Other starring roles include Evergreen (“Django Unchained”), Nottoway (“The Magnificent Seven”) and Felicity (“The Skeleton Key”).

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain.

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

©OAK ALLEY PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 50 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 50 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 51 Dining........................................................................................................... 52

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 2 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Family Travelers

Outdoor Lovers

Music Fans

Penguins and sea otters and leucistic alligators—oh, my! Kids are encouraged to take part in daily feedings at the (1) Audubon Aquarium, and to go deep with the “Great Maya Reef” exhibit, which allows them to get eye-to-eye with stingrays, yellow snapper and other liquid assets. Even cooler is the Cool Zoo splash park at (2) Audubon Zoo, where a giant alligator water slide dumps 400 gallons of the wet stuff every 45 seconds. Paul Bunyan rubs shoulders with King Kong and Elvis cavorts with giant mermainds at (3) Mardi Gras World, where the bigger-than-life Carnival creations are sure to get young imaginations moving. A tour of the compound also provides an educational overview of Fat Tuesday traditions.

Work in a history lesson on your morning run with (1) New Orleans Jogging Tours. The educational, two-hour 10k treks start at the edge of the French Quarter, wind through the Central Business District and into the Garden District.

From boating and biking to tennis and golf, (2) City Park offers an easy escape for outdoor enthusiasts. Bird-watchers will gravitate to the 60-acre Couturie Forest, while fitness junkies will find their fix in the hydraulic exercise equipment around the Big Lake. For up-close encounters with alligators, egrets and other beasts of the Southern wild, set off on an (3) Airboat Adventures tour. Opt for early morning outing, when the swamp is most picturesque and the wildlife is hungry for company.

In other cities public parks tend to be quiet, contemplative spaces. But around (1) Jackson Square, bawdy brass bands start sounding off well before noon and continue throughout the afternoon. Quiet during the daylight hours, Frenchmen Street makes big noise after sunset with a number of must-visit music clubs. (2) The Spotted Cat gets in the groove early, with bands (up to three daily) taking the stage at 3 pm on weekends and 4 pm weekdays. In a city of many memorable moments, a late night at the (3) Maple Leaf is one you won’t soon forget. Tuesdays are the big to-do, with the Grammy-winning Rebirth Brass Band taking the stage at 11 pm and playing way into the wee hours.

56 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U LY 2018

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©JEFF STROUT/AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; ©JEFF STROUT/AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; ©MARDI GRAS WORLD; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; ©SHAWN FINK; ©AIRBOAT ADVENTURES; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©CHRIS GRANGER/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©CHERYL GERBER/NEWORLEANSONLINE.COM

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS