Where Magazine New Orleans Jan 2020

T R AV E L E R S K N O W W H E R E ™

NEW ORLEANS JAN 2020

GET GOING

NEW TO TOWN

2020 KICKS OFF

On the Decatur Street beat

Recent openings and a look at the year ahead

The Allstate Sugar Bowl and College Football Playoff National Championship, plus “Crescent City Sport”

A New Orleans Tradition 714 St. Peter • 600 Decatur • 334 Royal • 311 Bourbon

www.cafebeignet.com

Vintage

Chanel vintage barware • VINTAGE DESIGNER COSTUME JEWELRY • Bakelite • Taxco Sterling Silver • turquoise • HANDBAGS • Original Lithograph Posters • Vintage Sunglasses

504.525.2262 • 329 Royal St, New Orleans • www.vintage329.com

INDY EYEWEAR LIKE NOWHERE ELSE

ART & EY&S

3708 MAGAZINE ST. 504-891-4494 ARTANDEYESNEWORLEANSLA.COM

How to perfectly see in 20/20

HIGHEST RATED

STEAKHOUSE IN IN NEW NEW OR OR LEA LEA NS NS

VOT VOT ED ED BY

BY OPEN OPEN TA TA BLE BLE DI DI NER NER S' S'

SER SERVING VIN ON G O LY NLY

U US SD P DA A PR RIIM ME E

Open Open 5 5 p.m. p.m. Daily Daily || 322 322 Magazine Magazine Street Street || 504.522.7902 504.522.7902 || chophousenola.com chophousenola.com

CONTENTS

16 2020

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 8 Ask the Expert 12 Calendar 14 One Block 22 Maps 51 Parting Shot 56 THE GUIDE Dining 25 Shopping 35 Attractions 41 Entertainment 44 Nightlife 46

19

20

Good Sports Football, baseball, basketball, boxing: A new exhibit spotlights game-changing moments in “Crescent City Sport.”

Words to Eat By Four new New Orleans cookbooks to sink your teeth into.

ON THE

COVER

21

Fast Food The best part of the intermittent fasting diet fad? Breaking it.

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The original Sugar Bowl trophy, circa 1825-1826, part of the Historic New Orleans Collection’s “Crescent City Sport” exhibit. ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

(FROM TOP) ©LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM; ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; ©DENNY CULBERT/LORENA JONES BOOKS; ©TRUE FOOD KITCHEN

What’s new and now on the 2020 NOLA mustdo list.

JAN

wheretraveler.com

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F

ootball is in my blood. During the 1930s, my grandfather played for an early Ohio team, before meeting my grandmother and moving south, where our family tree became solidly rooted in pigskin. There were Friday night high school games, and on Saturdays we’d gather in front of my grandparent’s hulking black-and-white console for heated college matchups. My father played, my brother played, I played. Still, I was no major-league fan until I moved to New Orleans.

Here, football isn’t just a family affair but a communal bond, the tie that binds this amazing city together. Each week every autumn, in homes and bars around town, residents from all walks join forces and become one for three hours, putting aside differences for a shared love of the game.

We fly team flags from our front porches, parade decorated vehicles through the streets, dress up and throw down. We huddle around the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, even when we can’t score tickets, for top-notch tailgating and support our beloved Saints through thick and thin.

The 2019 season may have come to a close, but football fever still rages on in New Orleans throughout January with the 86th annual Allstate Sugar Bowl, the College Football Playoff National Championship and the Saints eyeing another Super Bowl run. No tickets? No need. Just head to the Superdome on game day and soak up the team spirit.

THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2020

JANUARY

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

MAKE TODAY AN AUDUBON DAY.

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—

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Top 10 Seafood Restaurant

- U.S.A. Today

Wood Grilled Redfish & Louisiana Lump Crabmeat Tasso ham & roasted mushrooms, Pontalba potatoes, lemon butter sauce

A Best Seafood Restaurant in U.S.A - Travel & Leisure

115 BOURBON ST, FRENCH QUARTER

Reservations 504-598-1200 • www.redfishgrill.com

Breakfast at “Best Restaurants in the World” - Conde Nast Traveler

“South’s Top 10

Best Restaurants”

- Southern Living Magazine

“Restaurant of the Year”

- New Orleans Magazine

4 1 7 R O YA L S T, F R E N C H Q UA R T E R BREAKFAST / LUNCH • DINNER • PRIVATE EVENTS

Reservations 504.525.9711

www.brennansneworleans.com

®

Friends don’t let Friends eat Frozen Fish!

WhereTraveler magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, www.morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the logo are registered  trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.

NEW ORLEANS

EDITORIAL & DESIGN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Margaret Martin MANAGING EDITOR

Jennifer McKee EDITOR

Doug Brantley CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Jennifer Keller Vaz ART DIRECTOR

Olivia Rushbrook PHOTO EDITOR

Vincent Hobbs EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT

Donna W. Kessler CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Dennis Kelly

VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS

Angela E. Allen

DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL OPERATIONS

Jamie Turner

DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION

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CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS

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MANUFACTURING & PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING

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PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR

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PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER

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IMAGE AND RETOUCH MANAGER

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HOSPITALITY RELATIONS & DISTRIBUTION REGIONAL MANAGER

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Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

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Ashlea Kelly, 504.522.6468, ashlea.kelly@morris.com Unless otherwise indicated, emails for all of the above except contributors: firstname.lastname@morris.com

WHERETRAVELER / NEW ORLEANS 324 Chartres St., 2nd fl., New Orleans, LA 70130 504.522.6468 MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS

CHAIRMAN

William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO

William S. Morris IV

9



EXPERT TIP: Bring your comfortable walking shoes.

Feathers, to learn the history behind the Mardi Gras Indians.

check out Rockrose, the new Greek restaurant at the International House.

Dead Rabbit New York is opening a bar in the French Quarter, which should be a nice fit, and there’s a Kolache Kitchen coming to the Warehouse District, so that will feed my kolache addiction.

Q: IT COULD TAKE DAYS TO TAKE IN ALL THE HIGGINS-ADJACENT NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM HAS TO OFFER. NAME TWO MUST-SEES FOR VISITORS WHO CAN SPEND ONLY AN AFTERNOON. A: I recommend everyone

CONCIERGE AT THE HIGGINS HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTER

something new every time I see it. And if you have just one afternoon, I’d say stick to the original Memorial Pavilion, then think about buying a discounted, second–day ticket and coming back.

Q: SUGGEST A FEW OTHER MUSEUMS WORTH EXPLORING. A: I love the New Orleans

Museum of Art and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. And for a local experience, the House of Dance and

Normandy in the hotel; I can’t stop thinking about chef Virgil’s burger. I also love Cochon Butcher and Sofia, for a good bowl of pasta.

Q: THE KING CAKE FESTIVAL OR THE JOAN OF ARC PARADE; WHERE ARE WE MOST LIKELY TO FIND YOU? A: The King Cake Fest. My

sweet tooth would allow nothing other.

Q: ANY RESOLUTIONS? A: To be a kinder person.

In this day and age, we all just need to be kind.



see the movie “Beyond All Boundaries”; I learn

TRAVIS GILBERT

In this day and age, we all just need to be kind.

Q: NAME THREE GREAT LUNCH SPOTS NEAR THE HIGGINS. A: Only three? Café

©DOUG BRANTLEY

Q: THE HIGGINS IS NEW ORLEANS’ NEWEST HOTEL. WHAT 2020 OPENINGS ARE YOU MOST ANTICIPATING? A: I’m super excited to

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1016 Annunciation Street New Orleans, LA 1016 Annunciation Street New Orleans, LA 504-568-0245 • www.annunciationrestaurant.com 504-568-0245 • www.annunciationrestaurant.com 1016 Annunciation Street New Orleans, LA

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504-568-0245 • � www.annunciationrestaurant.com � sdf

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For special event inquiries email ksparks.annunciation@gmail.com For special event inquiries email ksparks.annunciation@gmail.com ® for a complimentary For special event inquiries email ksparks.annunciation@gmail.com Mention WhereTraveler ® for a complimentary Mention glass of WhereTraveler house wine with entree purchase.

glass of house wine with entree purchase.

Mention WhereTraveler® for a complimentary

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M / N E W- O R L E A N S / E V E N T S

THE

CALENDAR

TWELFTH NIGHT JANUARY 6

SUGAR BOWL FAN FEST

7

at 7:45 pm at the MercedesBenz Superdome. Gear up three hours beforehand with the free fan fest in Champions Square. www.mbsuperdome.com

GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH

New Orleans Pelicans Jan. 6 The first of this month’s eight home games pits the Pelicans against the Utah Jazz. Tip-off is at 7 pm at the Smoothie King Center.

For a full roster, visit www. smoothiekingcenter.com.

Allstate Sugar Bowl Jan. 1 The nation’s secondoldest college bowl game celebrates its 86th year with the Georgia Bulldogs taking on the Baylor Bears

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Battle of New Orleans Jan. 11-12 Cannon and musket firings, military drills, living history re-enactors in period costume: The final

conflict in the War of 1812 is replayed at Chalmette Battlefield, where it took place in 1815. www.visit stbernard.com College Football Playoff National Championship Jan. 13 The nation’s top-tier college teams battle it out for gridiron glory at the Superdome. www.mbsuper dome.com Creole Aesthetics In Carnival Arts Jan. 15 Brush up on your Carnival history with this free discussion of Mardi Gras Indian masking traditions at the Cabildo

in Jackson Square. www. louisianastatemuseum.org Bal Masqué Jan. 18 This costumed affair, catered by top chefs and mixologists from around the nation, recalls the lavish European masquerade balls of the 18th century. www.balmasquelink stryjewski.org “Miss Saigon” Jan. 21-26 The recent Broadway revival of 1991 Tony-winner racked up three additional Tony noms in 2017. See why when it pulls into the Saenger Theatre. www.saengernola.com

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(LEFT) ©ALLSTATE SUGAR BOWL; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

THE LINEUP

Carnival season kicks off with a trio of parades hitting the streets…and the rails.

The Phunny Phorty Phellows get things rolling at 7 pm with their annual ride on the St. Charles streetcar, followed by the Funky Uptown Krewe. Meanwhile in the French Quarter, folks decked in medieval attire set off on the Joan of Arc Parade, in commemoration of the 608th birthday of the “maid of Orleans.” Get out and catch the fun. www.phunnyphortyphellows.com; www.joanofarcparade.org



WHAT’S HAPPENING

NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

Where Now

New for the New Year

What’s here, now and on the horizon for 2020

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(LEFT) ©LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT; (RIGHT) ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; (OPENING PAGE) ©SAZERAC HOUSE

Over the past few months, New Orleans has welcomed a number of new openings, upping the city’s entertainment ante and adding to visitors’ must-do lists. Here, we highlight a few of the biggest and gaze into our 2020 crystal ball for a look at what’s to come.

FROM LEFT: LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT AND THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

Chances are you’ve already seen New Orleans’ newest attraction. Visitors traveling by plane now arrive at/ disembark from the airport’s new, 35-gate terminal, which opened in early November. The $1.3-billion facility is almost as much of a destination as the city itself, counting more than 40 restaurants and retailers among its three concourses. Beloved area eateries (Leah’s Kitchen, MoPho) are on the menu, along with nationally recognized brands, while popular shops such as Dirty Coast and NOLA Couture add to the local flavor. At the end of Concourse B, near Emeril’s Table, you’ll spot our own WhereTraveler store, where you can bag cool Crescent City collectibles before boarding.

Local culture is also on display at the Historic New Orleans Collection’s new Royal Street campus.

Charting 300 years of the area’s evolution, the permanent French Quarter Galleries offer insight into the city’s past through more than 300 rare holdings (such as a chess set owned by 19th-century child prodigy Paul Morphy), while additional gallery spaces house rotating exhibits, including the current “Crescent City Sport” (see page 19). Admission is free.

WWW.FLYMSY.COM

The Mississippi has grown even mightier with the addition of two new riverboats. Sister to the Steamboat Natchez, the City of New Orleans set sail last fall, offering daily brunch and dinner jazz cruises.

The Riverboat Louis Armstrong, an offshoot of the Creole Queen Paddlewheeler, debuted in December.

The floating music and entertainment venue features four fully outfitted decks, each with a 1,000-person capacity, and ranks as the largest excursion riverboat on the Mississippi.

SAZERAC HOUSE Raise a toast to 2020 and “the official cocktail of New Orleans” at the recently opened Sazerac House museum, located just feet from where the original stood during the 1800s. In addition to a two-story still and complimentary cocktails, the free space features a variety of interactive exhibits that trace the city’s tippling timeline. Start on the third floor with an overview of New Orleans cocktail culture and work your way down.

WWW.SAZERACHOUSE.COM

WWW.HNOC.ORG

CITY OF NEW ORLEANS AND LOUIS ARMSTRONG RIVERBOATS

WWW.RIVERBOATCITYOFNEWORLEANS.COM; WWW.RIVERBOATLOUISARMSTRONG.COM

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LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM The city’s long-popular dedicated kids zone closed its big, blue Julia Street doors in September and packed off to City Park. Spread over 8.5 acres, the museum’s new $47.5-million location, geared to ages eight and under, features hands-on fun both inside and out. Among the highlights are local artist Terrance Osborne’s pint-sized shotgun playhouse and Japanese artist Fujiko Nakaya’s fog installation.

WWW.LCM.ORG

THE NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART’S BESTHOFF SCULPTURE GARDEN City Park’s other resident museum recently expanded its prized Besthoff Sculpture Garden, doubling its footprint and adding 26 works by contemporary artists. Now spanning 11 acres, the free outdoor venue features 90-plus pieces, ranging from Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s “Venus Victrix” to Elyn Zimmerman’s glass

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bridge, which follows the Mississippi River’s shifting course over the centuries.

WWW.NOMA.ORG

COMING ATTRACTIONS But wait…there’s more. In the months ahead, the National WWII Museum, which opened its new Hall of Democracy and Higgins Hotel in late 2019, will see the completion of its Canopy of Peace. The towering, 482-foot-long, steel-and-fiberglass structure will serve as both a unifier for the museum’s expansive campus and a state-of-the-art, after-dark light show. In early March, Houmas House Historic Estate and Gardens unveils its long-awaited Great River Road Museum and Interpretive Center, which focuses on the culture and folklore of the lower Mississippi. And by the time Jazzfest rolls around, the city will have kicked its bike-share program way up a notch, replacing pedalpowered rentals with electric-assisted versions.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM, BESTHOFF SCULPTURE GARDEN AND RIVERBOAT LOUIS ARMSTRONG

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM; ©RICHARD SEXTON/NOMA; ©RIVERBOAT LOUIS ARMSTRONG

Where Now

Where Now

Good Sports



(ALL IMAGES) ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

Fans in town for the 86th annual Allstate Sugar Bowl and/or the College Football Playoff National Championship will want to huddle at the Historic New Orleans Collection, where they’ll score free admission to the new Crescent City Sport: Stories of Courage and Change exhibit. Examining the important role sports have played in the city’s racial relations and tourism economy since the end of the Civil War, the wide-ranging exhibition touches on everything from boxing and horseracing to sailing and the creation of the New Orleans Saints.

Items on display include the original Sugar Bowl Trophy and the Saints’ 2010 Lombardi Trophy. www.hnoc.org

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LOUIS ARMSTRONG’S SECRET 9 BASEBALL TEAM; A SOUVENIR PROGRAM FROM THE 1930 TULANE VS. LSU GAME; A NEW ORLEANS PRIDE 1979-80 ANNUAL PROGRAM; A NEW ORLEANS SAINTS HELMET USED BY WIDE RECEIVER RAY OGDEN IN 1967; AN EARLY CONCEPT DRAWING OF THE SUPERDOME; A FOUR OARS ROWING MEDAL, CIRCA 1875-1885; AND HALL FAME RACEHORSE, PAN ZARETA, CIRCA 1916.

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Where Now

Words to Eat By

FROM LEFT: “THE DEEP END OF FLAVOR,” “THE NEW ORLEANS CHEF’S TABLE” AND ”THE NEW ORLEANS KITCHEN”

“THE NEW ORLEANS CHEF’S TABLE,”

BY LORIN GAUDIN

“THE NEW ORLEANS KITCHEN,” BY JUSTIN DEVILLIER

In this updated version (the original was released in 2013), there are more than 20 new restaurants and recipes added, with a heavier emphasis on dishes for home cooks.

Every word of the narrative was rewritten, though the sentiment remains the same: I love this delicious city, her chefs and restaurants. (Globe Pequot, 2nd edition)

Beloved chef/owner of La Petite Grocery and newer-to-the-scene Justine, Devillier’s book has a fresh, fun vibe, providing techniquedriven, core Louisiana recipes with his signature contemporary flare.

(Lorena Jones Books)

“CLASSIC RESTAURANTS OF NEW ORLEANS,” BY ALEXANDRA KENNON

Seafood guru/chef Flynn already has locals (and visitors) hooked on his beautiful seafood dishes served at his French Quarter restaurant, GW Fins. Now he’s compiled 100 recipes, replete with his indispensable tips for buying, butchering and cooking seafood, targeted at the home cook. (Gibbs Smith)

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A young, enthusiastic food writer/explorer’s take on the history, culture and cuisine of New Orleans. Kennon captures the culinary spirit of important chefs and restaurants via anecdotes, traditions and recipes that are doable for any level cook.

(Arcadia Publishing)

“THE DEEP END OF FLAVOR,” BY TENNEY FLYNN

(TOP FROM LEFT) ©GIBBS SMITH; ©LORIN GAUDIN; ©DENNY CULBERT/LORENA JONES BOOKS, A DIVISION OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE

OK, full disclosure: The first book listed below is my new cookbook. Yes, it’s cheeky of me to list it here and to write about myself, but I’m really proud of this book. I’m also extremely happy to give press to three friends—and now, fellow authors—who also have recently released cookbooks. I highly encourage any food/cooking collector to add these to their shelf. LORIN GAUDIN

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Where Now

Fast Food

It’s hard to imagine not eating in New Orleans. That said, the nationwide diet craze, intermittent fasting (IF), means no food for an extended period of time (12-20 or more hours). Sounds outlandish, but IF (along with low carb, plant-based, vegan and gluten-free) is a thing. True story: A certain food writer (me) has been doing IF for months, and is always hunting restaurants with cool menus, late lunch hours and great food to end the fast. LORIN GAUDIN 1

2

4

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©TRUE FOOD KITCHEN; ©ANATOLIA; ©CLESI’S; ©CONGREGATION COFFEE

3

1 2

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN

Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah, there’s everything to love about this new Central Business District restaurant. We’re hooked on the roasted sprouts, juicy burgers and enormous crudité bowl with two divine dips.

3

CONGREGATION COFFEE

This Warehouse District café, which counts a second loaction and roastery across the river, has a stunning all-day menu of salads, sandwiches or our favorite, the Fisherman’s Breakfast (smoked fish shakshuka). There are also beautiful French pastries baked on site.

WWW.TRUEFOODKITCHEN.COM/NEWORLEANS

ANATOLIA

WWW.CONGREGATIONCOFFEE.COM

4

CLESI’S

Straight outta Turkey, and tops for hot spiced tea, excellent crisply fried falafel and a rare treat, spicy ezme (crushed tomatoes, bell pepper, herbs and garlic), to go with kabobs or shawarma sliced from the spit. Also get labneh (yogurt with za’atar spices), and ask for sliced cucumbers (instead of pita) to dip gluten-free.

A casual Mid-City seafood joint, open throughout lunch and dinner, known for great seasonal boiled shrimp, crab and crawfish. There are also fat po’boys and apps that sub as a meal: spinach-artichoke dip and crawfish queso. Eat their chips, or BYO cracklings to keep it keto.

WWW.ANATOLIANEWORLEANS.COM

WWW.CLESISCATERING.COM

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F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O D O O N D E C AT U R S T R E E T, V I S I T W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

ONE BLOCK FIND THE BEST ON

DECATUR STREET (BETWEEN DUMAINE AND URSULINES)

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: THE JOAN OF ARC STATUE, A CHESS GAME, A MUFFULETTA AND DUTCH ALLEY ART-

EAT

SHOP

SEE

PLAY

January kicks off king cake season. Double your pleasure with King Cake French Toast at French Toast. For lunch grab a muffuletta—the city’s signature sandwich—at century-old Central Grocery; for dinner make it Café Sbisa, New Orleans’ third-oldest fine-dining spot, which features a gorgeous mural over the bar.

Christmas may have come and gone, but the holidays live on year-round at Santa’s Quarters. The scent of fresh-made pralines will draw sweet tooths into Southern Candymakers; art lovers will fall for Dutch Alley Artist’s Co-op, which counts more than twodozen local crafters.

It’s hard to miss the gilded Joan of Arc statue (aka “Joanie on a pony”), a gift to New Orleans from France. Just beyond the statue is tiny Latrobe Park, which is home to one of Paris’ famed Wallace Fountains. The nearby Red Store building houses WWOZ, the city’s popular jazz station (90.7 FM).

On the sidewalk outside of the Gazebo Café (where live music is performed daily), you’ll spot chess master Jude Acres in his trademark red beret taking on all comers. On Jan. 6 hundreds gather in the French Quarter for the annual Joan of Arc Parade, which pauses in front of the maid of Orleans’ statue to sing “Happy Birthday.”

 Santa’s Quarters 1025 Decatur St., 504.581.5820

 Joan of Arc Statue Decatur and Dumaine streets

 Gazebo Café

1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518

 Southern Candymakers

 Latrobe Park

1018 Decatur St., 504.527.5000

 Central Grocery

1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170

Decatur and Ursulines streets

 Jude Acres

923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620

 WWOZ

www.judeacres.com

 Café Sbisa

 Dutch Alley Artist’s Co-op

 Joan of Arc Parade

1101 Decatur St., 504.522.5565

912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220

1108 N. Peters St., 504.568.1234

 French Toast

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www.joanofarcparade.org

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SHAWN FIN ; SHANNON WHITE-DIECIDUE SHUTTERSTOC .COM;  CLOC WISE FROM TOP PICHU OVA E ATERINA SHUTTERSTOC .COM; DUTCH ALLEY ARTIST S CO-OP

IST’S CO-OP

THE

GUIDE OUR

PIGGING OUT IS IN

Jan. 6 marks the start of king cake season.

You’ll find the ubiquitous Carnival treat citywide. At Cochon (p. 26) the tradtional baby favor is replaced by a tiny pig.

FAVORITES

LOOK FOR our featured advertisers throughout the Guide.



©COCHON

Dining

DINING Central Business/ Warehouse District THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Frito pie. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6; www.ww2eats.com ANNUNCIATION Southern. Contemporary takes on traditional Southern and Creole fare is the draw here.

Country-fried sweetbreads with cheddar grits, crab-topped grilled pompano, banana pudding crème brulee—yes, yes and yes, please. D (Th-M).

1016 Annunciation St., 504.568.0245. Map 3, B7; www.annunciation restaurant.com

BAR MARILOU French. With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisian-accented space is perfect for sipping an afternoon appertif while nibbling on sophisticated bites, such as crisped potato stacks topped with crème fraïche and caviar. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, D4; www.barmarilou.com BONCI Italian At this Roman-born “pizzerium” (one of only three in the U.S.) giant, rectangular pizzas with a variety of toppings are cut by scissors and sold by weight. L, D (daily). 726 Julia St., 504.766.0377. Map 3,B5; www.bonciusa.com BORGNE Seafood At this seafood-centric restaurant, fantastic apps (such as duck-and-jalapeno poppers)

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THE GUIDE

AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic This bright, modern food hall offers a variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Thai and Hawaiian-inspired cuisines. B, L, D (daily). 801 Magazine St., 504.372.4321.

Map 3, C6; www.auctionhouse market.com

partner swimmingly with easygoing sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. L, D (daily).

601 Loyola Ave. (in the Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504.613.3860.

Map 3, C3; www.borgne restaurant.com BRIQUETTE Seafood. Contemporary coastal is the catch at this sprawling space. Follow the caramalized sea scallops with lump crab bisque, then dive into Louisiana redfish with crawfish relish.

D (nightly). 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6; www.briquette-nola.com

D IN IN G

CAFÉ CARMO International This island-inspired space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious— dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork) and shrimp-filled, black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6; www.cafecarmo.com CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats.

D (nightly). 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5; www.chophousenola.com COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. L, D (daily).

930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; www.cochonrestaurant.com COMPANY BURGER American Adam Biderman’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320.

Map 1, D3; www.thecompany burger.com

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COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes with pineapple tartar sauce and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. L, (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; www.comperelapin.com COPPER VINE American Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up duck fat fries, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as pork chops with grits, greens and grilled grapes. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su).

1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535.

Map 3, C4; www.coppervine wine.com COUVANT French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include English peas with duck egg and lardons, hanger steak Bordelaise and moules frites.

B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 315 Magazine St., 504.324.5400.

Map 3, D5; www.couvant.com THE DAILY BEET Vegetarian Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrial-chic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L, D (daily).

1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413.

Map 3, B4; 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377. Map 1, D4; www.thedailybeetnola.com DOMENICA Italian Out-of-the-norm antipasta (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020.

Map 3, E3; www.domenica restaurant.com EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his

classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum and more. L (M-F), D (nightly). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; www.emerils.com GIANNA Italian James Beard Awardwinning chef Rebecca Wilcomb pays tribute to her grandmother with homey fare, such as creamy polenta with lamb-sausage gravy, tortellini in bordo and veal saltimbocca.

L, D (daily). 700 Magazine St, 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; www.giannarestaurant.com GRILL ROOM Contemporary The fine dining room at the Windsor Court Hotel is a favorite of both locals and visitors. Refined yet relaxed, the Grill Room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. B, D (daily), L (M-F); jazz Br (Sa-Su). 300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6; www.windsorcourthotel.com HERBSAINT French One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes fequently, with entrées such as confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114.

Map 3, C5; www.herbsaint.com JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican Squash blossom tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare.

Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hot spot puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. L, D (daily). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615.

Map 3, C4; www.johnny sanchezrestaurant.com JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian At this casual Ace Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; www.josephineestelle.com

LÜKE International A throwback to Old World New Orleans brasseries. German specialties, such as pork schnitzel, meld with classic French bistro fare and fresh Louisiana seafood. B, L, D (daily). 333 St. Charles Ave. (in the Hilton St. Charles hotel), 504.378.2840. Map 3, D4; www.lukeneworleans.com MANNING’S Southern The fun, casual menu at former New Orleans Saints quarterback Archie Manning’s sports-themed restaurant puts fresh spins on tailgating classics. Chicken wings with a trio of sauces, alligator sausage dogs, crab sliders—one of everything, please. $$ L, D (daily). 519 Fulton St., 504.593.8118. Map 3, D6; www.harrahsneworleans.com MARCELLO’S Italian Modern renditions of old-school Italian classics.

Start with a crisp, cold Caesar with anchovies, move into an earthy chicken cacciatore or beefy lasagna, and finish with a perfect tiramisu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 715 St. Charles Ave., 504.581.6333. Map 3, C5; www.marcelloscafe.com MAYPOP Vietnamese. Asian-fusion food in a bright, open space. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345.Map 3, B4 ; www.maypoprestaurant.com MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales.

L, D (daily). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; www.emerilsrestaurants.com/ meril MOTHER’S American A true New Orleans classic. Po’ boys with “debris,” shrimp etouffeé, gumbo, jambalaya, pecan pie, breakfast biscuits: Mother’s has every kind of comfort food, all done just right.

B, L (daily). 401 Poydras St.,

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504.523.9656. Map 3, D6; www.mothersrestaurant.net OTRA VEZ Mexican Modern Mexican is the focus at this Southern offshoot of Brooklyn’s Alta Calidad. Yuca tater tots, fried tempura shrimp tacos, crawfish chile rellenos—s<00x00ED>! L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

1001 Julia St., 504.354.8194.

Map 3, B4; www.otraveznola.com PÊCHE Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better.

From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong.

L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; www.pecherestaurant.com

A new spirited sanctuary for cocktails, French fare and easy elegance. Located at Maison de la Luz and in partnership with Parisian group Quixotic Projects. barmarilou.com

@barmarilou

RESTAURANT AUGUST French Fine dining at its finest.

The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients. L (MF), D (nightly); Su brunch. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777.

Map 3, E5; www.restaurant august.com RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE Steaks Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb, sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily).

525 Fulton St., 504.587.7099.

Map 3, D6; www.ruthschris.com

Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard Happy Hour 3-6 PM Daily in our Oyster Bar! Book your reservation on Open Table.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

SEAWORTHY Seafood. This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, East and West coasts and other sustainably sourced seafood.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071.

Map 3, C5; www.seaworthy nola.com

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544 Carondelet Street

RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro offers traditional Italian dishes and not-so-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Open W-M. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5; www.redgravycafe.com

TSUNAMI Sushi At this sprawling sushi emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Big appetites will want to hit the Sumo Ribeye. L, D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474.

Map 3, C5; www.servingsushi.com WILLA JEAN BAKERY Contemporary Pastry chef Kelly Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory side as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. B, L (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334.

Map 3, B4; www.willajean.com

Central City

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CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue Stellar barbecue and kicked-up sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. L, D (daily). 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276.

Map 1, D3; www.centralcity bbq.com MAÏS AREPAS Latin An upscale CreoleColombian restaurant that puts overstuffed, filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center. L (TuSa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTH Southern Chef Isaac Toups creates museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery. Biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (SaSu). 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3; www.toupssouth.com

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. L, D (daily). 724

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Iberville St., 504.522.5973.

Map 3, E4; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409.

Map 3, E6; www.acmeoyster.com ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure with rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; www.antoines.com ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of the many famous dishes. D (daily); jazz brunch (Su).

813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433.

Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com BACKSPACE BAR & KITCHEN American. This comfy spot pays homage to the French Quarter’s rich literary legacy.

The bar serves drinks fashioned after famed authors’ faves, while the kitchen offers gumbo and sandwiches. L, D (daily).

139 Chatres St., 504.322.2245.

Map 3, F4; wwww.backspace nola.com BAYONA American Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; www.bayona.com BOURBON HOUSE Seafood A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes share menu space with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp.

B, L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; www.bourbonhouse.com

BRENNAN’S Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; www.brennansneworleans.com BROUSSARD’S Creole Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. The kitchen turns out long-popular classics, such as turtle soup and bronzed redfish with lump crab and mirliton slaw. D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; www.broussards.com CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun classics.

B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530.

Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554. Map 3, G5; www.cafebeignet.com CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a must-do.

On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open 24h (daily). 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; www.cafedumonde.com CAFÉ FLEUR DE LIS American Now here’s an omelet to start your day: crawfish tails, pepper Jack cheese, bell peppers and onions, topped with a Cajun crawfish sauce.

Add a side of hash browns with country gravy...then go back at lunchtime for a muffuletta panini. B, L (daily). 307 Chartres St., 504.529.9641.

Map 3, F4; www.cafefleur delis.com CAFÉ SBISA Creole Dating to 1899, the city’s third-oldest fine-dining venue is the perfect setting for chef Alfred Singleton’s FrenchCreole classics. Turtle soup, courtbouillon, crab-topped

paneed veal; the gumbo may change daily, but Old World charm is always on the menu.

D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 1011 Decatur St., 504.522.5565.

Map 3, H5; www.cafesbisa nola.com CANE & TABLE Cuban This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su).

1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112.

Map 3, I5; www.caneandtable nola.com CENTRAL GROCERY Deli This Italian deli-grocery is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5; www.centralgrocery.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu of Creole and Cajun cuisine. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; www.courtoftwosisters.com CURIO American Curious what “American cuisine with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-and-duck gumbo and cane syrup-glazed short ribs with cheddar grits.

B, L, D (daily). 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4; www.curionola.com DEANIE’S Seafood For years locals have driven to the lakefront Deanie’s for groaning boards of freshly fried seafood and grilled fish. Its French Quarter location offers the same great menu in posher surroundings. L, D (daily).

841 Iberville St., 504.581.1316.

Map 3, E4; L, D (Tu-Su) 1713 Lake Ave., Metairie, 504.831.4141.

Map 1, C2; www.deanies.com

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Zeppoles for Carnivale, it’s tradition!

DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (nightly). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; www.dorismetropolitan.com EL GATO NEGRO Mexican Some the most authentic south-of-the-border fare in the city. The ingredients are fresh, the tortillas are made to order and the hand-squeezed maragaritas made with orange, tangerine and lime are a must.

L, D (daily). 81 French Market Place,504.525.9752. Map 3, I5; 800 S. Peters St., 504.309.8864.

Map 3, C7; www.elgato negronola.com FRENCH TOAST Breakfast Breakfast is the focus of this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily).

1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518.

Map 3, H5;www.toastnew orleans.com FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE Coffee Named for the vintage Citroën vehicles it uses for deliveries to local restaurants and grocers, French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés.

Open daily. 221 Chartres St.,

GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (Tu-Su).

209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021.

Map 3, E4; www.galatoires.com GALATOIRE’S 33 BAR & STEAK Steaks This modern-day steak house adds a new chapter to Galatoire’s century-old story.

Craft cocktails and USDA prime cuts are the focus. The handsome space also features an elegantly appointed bar and private dining rooms. L (F), D (nightly). 215 Bourbon St., 504.335.3932. Map 3, E4; www. galatoires33barandsteak.com GREEN GODDESS Eclectic Chef Paul Artigues turns out adventurous dishes from this tiny kitchen. Possibly the only place in town you’ll find truffle-Manchego grits sharing menu space with grilled lemongrass tofu po’boys. L, D (W-Su). 307 Exchange Place, 504.301.3347. Map 3, E4; www. greengoddessrestaurant.com GW FINS Seafood Chef Tenney Flynn has taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared.

D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; www.gwfins.com HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain, filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings.

L, D (daily). 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4; www.hardrockcafe.com

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125 Camp Street | 504-561-8844 www.redgravycafe.com

DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecued rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters.

D (nightly). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; www.dickiebrennanssteak house.com

504.298.1115. Map 3, F4; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115.

Map 3, A7; 4536 Dryades St., 504.298.1115. Map 1, D4; www.frenchtruckcoffee.com

Dining

DIAN XIN Chinese Dim sum craving?

Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L (Su), D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4

ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine, Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso buco-topped polenta and top-notch tiramisu.

L, D (daily). 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5; www.theitalianbarrel.com IRENE’S CUISINE Italian Irene’s is all about garlic, olive oil and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. Think of the long wait (no reservations) as part of the charm. D (M-Sa).

529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811.

Map 3, F5; www.irenesnola.com

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JEWEL OF THE SOUTH Contemporary This hidden gem takes its cue from a 19th-century restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, Roffigacs) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu of late-night bites. D (nightly). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; www.jewelnola.com JUSTINE French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: steak tartar, tuna Niçoise salad, moules frites. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su).

225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533.

Map 3, E4; www.justine nola.com K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.

His restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, such as bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders.

D (M-Sa). 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530.Map 3, F4; www.kpauls.com KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This tiny holein-the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-in-

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fused slaw. B, L, D (W-M).

219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731.

Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745.Map 3, F4; www.killerpoboys.com KINGFISH Louisiana “New Louisiana” is the concept at this popular dining spot, with creative spins on local standards such as cracklin’ nachos with pulled pork and pimento cheese sauce or molasses-cured duck breast with sweet potato-andouille hash.

L (Tu-Th), D (nightly); Br (F-M).

337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005.

Map 3, F4; www.kingfishnew orleans.com KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers. 24h (daily). 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4; www.krystal.com LATITUDE 29 Eclectic World-renowned tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare. L (FSa), D (daily). 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5; www.latitude29nola.com LONGWAY TAVERN Eclectic. A proper gastropub with a comfy chic interior, solid familiar cocktails and smart, sexy food. The pork belly home fries, fried calamari and hefty steak sandwiches will make you linger. L (F-Su), D (nightly).

719 Toulouse St., 504.962.9696.

Map 3, G4; www.longway tavern.com M BISTRO Louisiana At this relaxed venue in the refined Ritz-Carlton French chef Thierry Connault puts his international imprint on a contemporary American menu that changes with the seasons. B, L, D (daily); Su brunch. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com MANOLITO Cuban A taste of Cuba in the heart of the French Quarter.

Pressed Cuban sandwiches, tender ropa vieja and shrimp

ceviche are top food picks.

Pair with a martini, thrown Spanish-Cuban style. L (W-Su); D (nightly). 508 Dumaine St., 504.603.2740. Map 3, H4; www.manolitonola.com MEAUXBAR French French bistro standards tweaked with a thoughtful, modern hand. Dishes include escargot with shiitakes in brandy cream and mussels nestled in a harrisa broth, crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. D (nightly); Br (Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3; www.meauxbar.com MORTON’S Steaks With its USDA primeaged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, this renowned steakhouses the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. D (nightly). 365 Canal St., 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5; www.mortons.com MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Musttries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su).

201 Royal St., 504.523.2078.

Map 3, E4; www.mrbsbistro.com MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole Overlooking Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy contemporary Creole dishes, such as crawfish-and-goat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding.

L, D (daily); jazz Br (Sa, Su).

801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885.

Map 3, G4; www.muriels.com NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas.

L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; www.napoleonhouse.com

NINE ROSES CAFÉ Vietnamese The Westbank Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location serving such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. L, D (MSa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450.

Map 3, F4; www.nineroses restaurant.com NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter bistro’s small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Must-trys include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oyster-and-brie pot pie. L, D (daily). 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652.

Map 3, F5; www.emerils restaurant.com/nola PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish.

B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; www.palacecafe.com PELICAN CLUB Louisiana Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The seared tuna with Gulf shrimp is excellent, as is the roasted baby lamb rack. Try the seafood martini appetizer.

D (daily). 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4; www.pelicanclub.com RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain? Not at Ralph Brennan’s popular seafood spot. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional.

L, D (daily). 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4; www.redfishgrill.com RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The

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Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com Now Serving Lunch

HERMANN- GRIMA + GALLIER HISTORIC HOUSES

RIB ROOM Steaks For more than five decades, the Rib Room has been the local source for meticulously prepared, slow-roasted prime rib. The menu also features intriguing dishes such as duck saltimbocca. B, D (daily), L (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch. 621 St. Louis St. (in the Omni Royal Orleans Hotel), 504.529.7045.

Map 3, F4; www.ribroom neworleans.com SHAKE SHACK American Started as a Manhattan hot dog cart, restaurateur Danny Meyer’s wildly successful burger joint now has outlets nationwide, including three in New Orleans.

Do not skip the crinkle fries and stellar shakes. L, D (daily).333 Canal St., 504.677.8001. Map 3, E6; 3501 Veterans Blvd., 504.380.0279. Map 1, C2; Armstrong International Airport, 900 Airline Dr., Concourse B. Map 1, A2; www.shakeshack.com SOBOU Contemporary The focus at this “south of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and an amazing selection of Louisiana street food-inspired small plates. B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4; www.sobounola.com STANLEY Eclectic Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings.

B, L, D (daily). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; www.stanleyrestaurant.com SYLVAIN Contemporary Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this

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Book reservations through Open Table.

Dining

rooms are gorgeously appointed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; www.revolutionnola.com

sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Chick Syl-vain sandwiches and pasta Bolognese.

D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123.

Map 3, G4; www.sylvain nola.com

EMERIL’S DELMONICO Creole. Located on the St. Charles streetcar line, this elegant circa-1895 restaurant now serves chef Emeril Lagasse’s modern takes on Creole classics. D (nightly). 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937. Map 1, D3; www.emerilsrestaurants.com/ emerils-delmonico

TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily).

616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463.

Map 3, G4; www.tableaufrench quarter.com

GRIS-GRIS Louisiana Chef Eric Cook (American Sector, Commander’s Palace) finally has a place of his own, where he whips up elevated New Orleans standards, such as oyster-and-caviar po’ boys and seafood-stuffed crab. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 3, D4; www.grisgrisnola.com

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TUJAGUE’S Creole. Open since 1856, Tujague’s (“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5; www.tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers. Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere.

L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; www.commanderspalace.com COQUETTE Contemporary. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French?

Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have fried chicken.

D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421.

Map 1, D4; www.coquettenola.com

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JACK ROSE Contemporary This bold, contemporary space turns out playful versions of familiar foods.

Think squid-ink pasta with shrimp in a cayenne-kicked barbecue sauce. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. L (F), D (WSu); Br (Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; www.jackroserestaurant.com MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE Breakfast The sandwich gurus behind Turkey and the Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast spot. Collard greens and grits, sweet potato burritos, deviled egg tostadas—expect the unexpected. B (W-M). 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896.

Map 1, D4; www.mollysriseand shine.com TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. L (W-M).

739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428.

Map 1, D4; www.turkeyandthe wolf.com

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant.

Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands per-

form in the shady backyard.

L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; www.bacchanalwine.com BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO American. The menu at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried Gulf oysters with oyster gravy; try the rabbit curry. D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su).

2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827.

Map 1, E3; www.bywater americanbistro.com THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; www. thecountryclubneworleans.com ELIZABETH’S American “Real food done real good” is the motto at this homey neighborhood spot, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (M-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su).

601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272.

Map 1, E3; www.elizabeths restaurantnola.com

N7 French. At this quiet, tuckedaway bistro the menu is divided into plated dishes (steamed mussels, hanger steak with crushed potatoes) and specialty tinned seafood. A lovely wine list, great music and fine service equate to total charm. D (M-Sa).

1117 Montegut St., no phone.

Map 1, E3; www.n7nola.com NEW ORLEANS CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY American Steven “the Cake Man” Himelfarb offers breakfast and lunch at his charming Bywater café, but it’s cake that’s the beloved baker’s calling card.

B, L (W-M). 2440 Chartres St., 504.943.0010. Map 3, K6; www.nolacakes.com PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; www.paladar511.com PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian This popular pizzeria serves up New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings, whole or by the slice. L, D (Tu-Su).

617 Piety St., 504.676.8482.

Map 1, E3; www.pizza delicious.com

THE ELYSIAN BAR Eclectic Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as whipped ricotta with preserved mushrooms on flatbread or chicken confit with white beans and roasted apples. L, D (daily). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6768. Map 1, E3; www.theelysianbar.com

SATSUMA CAFÉ Eclectic Vegan and veg-friendly dishes, such as chilled cornand-lime soup and goat cheesestuffed French toast, are the draw here, along with stunning fresh-pressed vegetable and fruit juices. B, L (daily). 3218 Dauphine St., 504.304.5962.

Map 1, E3; 1320 Magazine St., 504.354.9869. Map 1, D4; 7901 Maple St., 504.309.5557.

Map 1, D3; www.satsuma cafe.com

THE JOINT Barbecue This funky Bywater fave is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. L, D (M-Sa).

701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232.

Map 1, E3; www.always smokin.com

ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns.

The stunning space features 11 food vendors, along with a bar. L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813.Map 1, E3; www.strochmarket.com JA N U A RY 2 0 2 0

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Mid-City ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery This century-old ice cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. Open Tu-Su. 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.0078.

Map 1, D2; www.angelo brocatoicecream.com BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts.

If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D, (Tu-Su). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583.

Map 1, D3; www.blueoak bbq.com

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GABRIELLE Louisiana Gabrielle’s return to the local restaurant scene is a most-welcome one. The menu reflects long-beloved dishes, such as slow-roasted duck, new recipes and a surprise or two, like braised rabbit with rose-petal syrup and Stilton cheese fries. L (F), D (Tu-Sa). 2441 Orleans Ave., 504.603.2344. Map 1, D3; www.gabriellerestaurant.com PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN Louisiana The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, catfish and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list.

L, D (W-M). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; www.parkwaypoorboys.com PIECE OF MEAT Deli This petit butcher shop and restaurant is loaded with tempting options: cheeseand-boudin eggrolls, brisket sandwiches, tender ribs. L (Th-Tu), D (Th-Sa); Br (Sa-Su).

3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289.

Map 1, D3; www.pieceofmeat butcher.com RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine

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in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000.Map 1, D2; www.ralphsonthepark.com 1000 FIGS Mediterranean Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj, lamb and more. L, D (Tu-Sa). 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848.

Map 1, D2; www.1000figs.com TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. L, D (TuSa); Br (Sa-Su). 845 Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999.Map 1, D3; www.toupsmeatery.com WILLIE MAE’S SCOTCH HOUSE Southern. This beloved neighborhood eatery draws foodies from around the globe with its famous fried chicken and other Southern standards. L (M-Sa).

2401 St. Ann St., 504.822.9503.

Map 1, D3; www.williemaes nola.com ZASU Seafood Award-winning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate, Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, citrus-poached shrimp, saltine-crusted grouper with braised greens and crawfish.

Word of advice: Do not skip dessert. D (M-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233.

Map 1 , D2; www.zasunola.com

Uptown AVO Italian Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; www.restaurantavo.com

BOUCHERIE Southern Looking for a place where you can get in and out for under $25? Chef/owner Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. L (Tu-Sa); D (MSa); Br (Su). 8115 Jeannette St., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3; www.boucherie-nola.com BRIGTSEN’S Creole A protegé of Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. D (Tu-Sa). 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3; www.brigtsens.com CAMELLIA GRILL American. Say “burger” in New Orleans, and Camellia Grill instantly comes to mind. Why? Juicy cheeseburgers, crispy fries and savory chili at one of the most coveted lunch (and dinner) counters in the city— that’s why. B, L, D (daily). 626 Carrollton Ave., 504.309.2679.

Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana Chef Jason Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as New Orleans-style cassoulet.

No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise.

D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928.

Map 1, C3; www.carrollton market.com CASAMENTO’S Seafood Open since 1919, this Uptown landmark is oyster heaven for those with a taste for plump Gulf bivalves. Get them fried for sandwiches built on thick slices of toast, floating in buttery stew or simply raw and cold on the half shell. L (Th-Sa), D (Th-Su). 4330 Magazine St., 504.895.9761. Map 1, D4; www. casamentosrestaurant.com CAVAN Southern. This Victorian home’s “beautiful deterioration” is an ideal setting for modern Southern cuisine.

Start with the crawfish-and-

goat cheese king cake before tackling the double burger with Sazerac BBQ sauce. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4; www.cavannola.com COSTERA Spanish The Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas (papas bravas, blistered peppers, grilled octopus), along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. L, D (W-M).

4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332.

Map 1, D4; www.costera restaurant.com DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays homage to late chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3; www.dtbnola.com LA BOULANGERIE Bakery This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted.

Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own.

B, L (M-Sa). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; www.laboulangerie.com LA PETITE GROCERY French An intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites.

Order the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; www.lapetitegrocery.com LILETTE French Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French, but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (Tu-Sa), D (M-Sa). 3637

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MAX WELL Vegetarian The plantbased, organic menu at this health-conscious café features “nutrient-dense ingredients to promote maximum wellness.”

Translation: fresh fruit and veg juices, silky soups and spectacular salads and bowls.

L, D (daily). 6101 Magazine St., 504.301.0510. Map 1, C4; www.maxwellneworleans.com

F E ATUR E D A RTI ST: JOAN SLI FKA

ESTATE & CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELRY NEW ORLEANS & VINTAGE CHARMS

PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY Southern. Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this playful Commander’s Palace offshoot. Begin with the smoked fish dip and finish with cookie-dough s’mores.

L, D (daily). 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4; www.nolapicnic.com SABA Mediterranean. Chef Alon Shaya provides a taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as octopus with shawarma spices. L (W-F), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 3, D4; www.eatwithsaba.com

SHOPPING Art Galleries & Antiques

LIGHTING - ART - FURNITURE 637 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA 504.524.9067 / 888.524.9067 www.lightingneworleans.com

A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. 241 Chartres St.,

ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394.

Map 1, D4; www.alexbeard studio.com ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries.

927 Royal St., 504.304.0849.

Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4; www.antieaugallery.com ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999.

Map 3, C5; www.arthurroger gallery.com ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works—oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks—by dozens of regional artists. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5; www.artistsmarketnola.com BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485.

Map 3, F4; www.bevolo.com CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518.

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THE GUIDE

534 Royal St. • (504) 522-1305 www.lapetitfleur.com

PATOIS Louisiana Aaron Burgau has earned all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois combines Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a low-key neighborhood bar scene. L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4; www.patoisnola.com

504.568.1313. Map 3, F4; www.agallery.com

Shopping

Magazine St., 504.895.1636.

Map 1, D4; www.lilette restaurant.com

www.Map 3, C6; www.callan contemporary.com CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; www.craigtracy.com FISCHER-GAMBINO An eclectic shop specializing in fine lighting fixtures, as well as statuary, furniture and home interesting home accents.

637 Royal St., 504.524.9067.

Map 3, G4; www.lighting neworleans.com

SH O P P IN G

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others.

910 Royal St., 504.388.7601.

Map 3, H4; www.frankrelle.com HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 ; www.harouni.com JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists.

Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured.

400A Julia St., 504.522.5471.

Map 3, C6; www.jonathan ferraragallery.com LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassworks are among the media exhibited here. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6; www.lemieuxgalleries.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century

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antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660.

Map 3, G4; www.rauantiques.com MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable.

You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes.

617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505.

Map 3, E4; www.michalopoulos.com MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Photographer Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157.Map 3, F4; www.modernist cuisinegallery.com MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery, which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. 411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4; www.mossantiques.com MYTH GALLERY Part animal/part human, Betsy Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also showcases the whimsical sculpture of R. Scott Long. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312.Map 3, H4; www.myth-gallery.com

504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; www.georgerodrigue.com SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY Step into this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.”

4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4; www.ashleylongshore.com STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ giant graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space. The evocative collection explores African-American life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm.

2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231.

Map 1, E3; www.ephemeral eternal.com

TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life.

3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; www.terranceosborne.com VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and retro barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters (Durer, Rembrandt) and masters of the belle époque, (Cheret, Lautrec, Mucha) to the modern masters (Picasso, Dali, Miro, Matisse, Chagall) and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art (Warhol, Francis, Frankenthaler, Motherwell).

Bungalow’s

RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art” by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4; www.redtruckgallery.com RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue.

Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St.,

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Sun–Thu 10 – 6, Fr i – S a t 10 – 9 • 6 1 7 B i e nv i l l e S t , N e w O r l e a n s

Books & Music BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare, antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5; www.beckhamsbookshop.com FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in 1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4; www.faulknerhouse books.com

LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; www. louisianamusicfactory.com

We’ve combined five tours into ONE EXCITING CITY TOUR FRENCH QUARTER • KATRINA RECOVERY • HITORIC CHEMETERIES GARDEN DISTRICT • NEW ORLEANS ARCHITECTURE

PEACHES RECORDS For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured,

CENTURY GIRL A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous vintage fashions and beautiful designer costume jewelry. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4; www.centurygirlvintage.com DARK GARDEN An offshoot of the acclaimed San Francisco corsetry and couture shop, famed for its handcrafted, bespoke designs for “every size, every gender, every shape, every aesthetic.” 3528 Magazine St., 504.417.9751.

Map 1, D4; www.dark garden.com/nola DIRTY COAST You won’t find your standard Bourbon Street T-shirts here.

Catering to locals and in-theknow visitors, Dirty Coast’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans.

713 Royal St., 504.324.6730.

Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745.Map 1, D4; www.dirtycoast.com FLEURTY GIRL These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items.

617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529.

Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 1627 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944.

Map 1, D3; www.fleurtygirl.net GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear and stylish stores are found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890.

Map 1, D3; www.goorin.com QUEORK Cork is the get at this sleek boutique, where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more.

838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585.

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THE GUIDE

INLOW GUITARS A musically inclined man cave outfitted with the requisite leather sofa and bar, a pickshaped side table and dozens of vintage guitars, from early Gibson Style Os to artist-owned electrics. 1700 Magazine St., 504.571.9390. Map 1, D4; www.inlowguitarsnola.com

along with shoes, bags and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; www.billyreid.com

Shopping

Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4; www.windsorfineart.com

Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803.Map 1, D4; www.queork.com TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide.

The secret to its success is its eco-conscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030.

Map 1, D4; www.tasc performance.com TRASHY DIVA Original and vintage-inspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777.

Map 1, D4; www.trashydiva.com

SH O P P IN G

UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs at drastically reduced prices. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4; www.shopual.com

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and great gift items.

719 Royal St., 504.522.9222.

Map 3, G4; www.shop bungalows.com DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant handpressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003.

Map 1, D4; www.derby pottery.com ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers handcrafted spell kits, magical gris-gris

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bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more.

807 Royal St., 504.525.2055.

Map 3, G4; www.erzulies.com HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY This magical emporium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558.

Map 3, I5; www.hexwitch.com HOME MALONE A bright, welcoming space filled with Crescent City collectibles (NOLA-themed dish towels, Mardi Gras float flowers), Southern-centric home décor and fun gift items. 4610 Magazine St., 504.766.6148. Map 1, D4; 629 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.324.8352.

Map 1, D2; www.homemalone nola.com LADY DELANEY’S IMAGINARIUM A petite jewel box filled with itsy-bitsy works of art. Pintsized paper dresses, teeny-tiny literary tomes, microscopic butterflies: If you can imagine it, miniaturist Lauren Delaney can create it. 3719 Magazine St., 269.271.1707. Map 1, D4; www.ladydelaney.com LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770.

Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5; www.littletoyshopnola.com THE MASK GALLERY Austrian crystals, hand-tooled leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations.

841 Royal St., 504.523.6664.

Map 3, F4; www.neworleans mask.com NOLA KIDS This children’s boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333

Chartres St., 504.566.1340.

Map 3, F4; www.shopnola kids.com OMEN This witchcraft emporium offers psychic readings, along with candles, brooms and the city’s largest selection of tarot decks. Psychics are also available for private events and corporate functions.1205 Decatur St., 504.322.7440. Map 3, I4; www.omensalem.com PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4; www.papierplume.com

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and topof-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; www.aidangillformen.com HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that has been in business for 80-plus years.

Among the perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents.

434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827.

Map 3, F5; www.hove parfumeur.com LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market” décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars.

532 Royal St., 504.529.5704.

Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4; www.lushusa.com

MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME “The oldest perfumer in the South” lives on thanks to her great grand-nephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines are featured.

608 Bienville St., 985.665.2123 Map 3, F4; www.madame aucoinperfume.com THE SPA AT THE RITZ-CARLTON This luxurious, award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms.

921 Canal St., 504.670.2929.

Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10 private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate French clay, roses and water lilies. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200.

Map 3, E3; www.roosevelt neworleans.com TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these centrally located relaxation stations, which specialize in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7

Jewelry ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich encorporates New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, gas lamps) and bits of nature in her handmade jewelry designs.

2727 Prytania St., Suite 6, 504.702.8036. Map 1, D4; www.adornandconquer.com ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget.

Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St.,

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FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254.

Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4; www.fleurdorleans.com KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRY Along with its signature line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. 5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227.

Map 1, D4; www.kendra scott.com

LA PETIT FLEUR Specializing in estate and contemporary jewelry, La Petit Fleur is well known for its own line of pendants based on the fleur de lis. The shop also offers NOLA-themed charms.

534 Royal St., 504.522.1305.

Map 3, G4; www.lapetit fleur.com MIGNON FAGET Designer Faget has created extraordinary jewelry for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work.

333 Canal St., 504.524.2973 Map 3, E5; 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; www.mignonfaget.com PORTER LYONS Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 631 Toulouse St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G5; www.porterlyons.com

Malls/ Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and the airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora.

3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; www.lakesideshopping.com THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio.

500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; www.riverwalkneworleans.com THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; www. theshopsatcanalplace.com

Shoes & Accessories THE CAJUN HATTER Self-made milliner Colby Hebert’s Cajun roots are evident in his “swamp chic” headwear, which incorporates natural elements such as alligator skin and beaver felt. 4516 Magazine St., 504.875.4644. Map 1, D4; www.colbyhebert.com FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats. Choose from over 800 original designs

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KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of glasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462.

Map 1, D4; www.krewe.com

WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and art deco designs. New designer lines are also featured. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4; www.wcjewelry.com

Shopping

504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; www. artandeyesneworleansla.com

accented with European ribbons and veiling. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4; www.fdphats.com JOHN FLUEVOG “Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers.

321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296.

Map 3, F4; www.fluevog.com GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929.

Map 3, F5; 2109 Magazine St.,504.309.7702. Map 1, D4; 3000 Severn Ave., Metairie, 504.888.7080, Map 1, C2 ; www.orleansshoes.com

SH O P P IN G

GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear and stylish stores are found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890.

Map 1, D3; www.goorin.com NOLA FOOT CANDY Sweet treats for your feet.

Located along Jackson Square, this womens shoe shop stocks a wide variety of fun and fashionable styles. 510 St. Peter St., 504.252.9144. Map 3, G4; www.nolafootcandy.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cutting-edge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; www.shoebedousa.com

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One Journey, Four Stories O N T H E G R E AT R I V E R R OA D LO C AT E D B E T W E E N BATO N R O U G E AND NEW ORLEANS

One Journey, Four Stories

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Attractions

notary public and passport photos. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4; www.packratshipping.com

ATTRACTIONS Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre green space is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root.

N. Rampart and St. Ann streets.

Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This award-winning aquarium counts the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater.

Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing hours. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; www.auduboninstitute.org

Twenty tales of athletic prowess and persistence, spanning 150 years, reveal how milestones in sports history have become part of our shared history. View memorabilia from heavyweight boxing champion John L. Sullivan, the rise of roller derby in New Orleans, plus the Vince Lombardi Trophy from Super Bowl XLIV. Baseball game at Heinemann Park (detail); ca. 1920; print from gelatin dry-plate negative

by John Tibule Mendes, photographer; THNOC, gift of Waldemar S. Nelson, 2003.0182.389

Crescent City Sport is presented by The Historic New Orleans Collection with support from the following sponsors:

The Gayle and Tom Benson Charitable Foundation

www.hnoc.org • (504) 523-4662 @visit_thnoc | #visitthnoc

THNOC.Where January 2020.1pp.indd 1

Amy and Chuck Lapeyre

AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237.

Map 1, C4; www.audubon institute.org AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest in the U.S. Open Tu-Su at 10 am; call for closing hours. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4; www.auduboninstitute.org

David P. Schulingkamp Linda and Tommy Westfeldt II

CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than

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Free exhibition now on view 520 Royal Street

AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN & INSECTARIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured. Open Ti-Su at 10 am; call for closing times. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5; www.auduboninstitute.org

New York’s Central Park. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888.

Map 1, D2; www.neworleans citypark.com CRESCENT PARK Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; www.crescentparknola.org ESCAPE MY ROOM The concept of this live, interactive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an hour and you and your teammates “escape” the mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and fun) than that. Reservations required. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580.

Map 3, D6; www.escape myroom.com

AT T R A C T IO N S

FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market dates to pre-colonial days. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1100 N. Peters St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5; www.frenchmarket.org FULTON ALLEY Putting a fresh spin on the old bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor (bocce, foosball, etc.), cool craft cocktails and big-flavored small plates.

600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569.

Map 3, D6; www.fultonalley.com HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino features 2,100 slots, 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6; www.harrahsneworleans.com JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5

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MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; www.mardigrasworld.com MERCEDES-BENZ SUPERDOME The recently revamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; www.mbsuperdome.com

PRODUCTS & SERVICES Notary Public Copies, Fax & Scan

WE SHIP WINE!

FedEx, DHL, & USPS Shipping MON-FRI 9am - 6pm SAT 10am - 4pm SUN Closed

NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This pocket park celebrates Bourbon Street’s musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and live music.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608.

Map 3, F4; www.neworleans musicallegends.com NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & STORE Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665.

Map 3, F5; www.nosoc.com

3436 MAGAZINE ST. | 504.899.5415

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2; www.smoothiekingcenter.com ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH The second-oldest AfricanAmerican Catholic church in the nation. A jazz Mass is held Sundays at 10 am. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2; www.staugustine catholicchurch-neworleans.org ST. BERNARD PARISH Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, family-oriented community and popular fishing and birding destination.

Attractions include Chalmette

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Battlefield (where the Battle of New Orleans took place), the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. www.visitstbernard.com ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily.

615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square), 504.525.9585.

Map 3, G4; www.stlouis cathedral.org WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Museums

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; www.cacno.org GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; www.hgghh.org HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/ museum provides a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu

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BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs and second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2; www.backstreetmuseum.org

and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; www.hgghh.org HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions and permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; www.hnoc.org

EN T ER TA IN M EN T

LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Kids learn through a “bajillion” hands-on activities at this award-winning museum.

The sprawling space offers a variety of interactive exhibits, along with a family-friendly café. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 11:30 am-4:30 pm. 15 Thomas Henry Dr. (City Park), St.,504.523.1357.www. lcm.org LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbyère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum.

504.568.6968.www. louisiana statemuseum.org NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.”

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944.

Map 3, B6; ww.nationalww2 museum.org NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free outdoor sculpture garden.

Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm.

1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; www.noma.org

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NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm.

514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027.

Map 3, G4; www.pharmacy museum.org OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open F-W, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; www.ogdenmuseum.org SAZERAC HOUSE This free facility toasts “the official cocktail of New Orleans” with a variety of hands-on exhibits. Explore the evolution of city’s cocktail cultural, while nabbing samples along the way.

Open daily. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; www.sazerachouse.com SOUTHERN FOOD & BEVERAGE MUSEUM Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB features exhibits, along with cooking classes.

Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm.

1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3; www.southernfood.org

Plantations DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley.

Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Closed all major holidays.

13034 River Rd, Destrhan, La., 877.453.2095. www.destrehan plantation.org EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek Revival edifice is a National Historic Landmark, a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation. Tours are offered M-Sa

at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. 4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La, 985.497.3837. www.evergreen plantation.org HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds.

Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877.303.1776 for details.

40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380. www.houmas house.com

of six different architectural styles. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. Closed major holidays.

2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756. www.sanfrancisco plantation.org ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of 19th-century architect Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877. The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. 535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078. www.stjosephplantation.com

LAURA PLANTATION TripAdvisor’s top-rated River Road plantation tour authentically details 200 years of lives of Creole owners, women, slaves and children. The property features 12 historic structures, along with a slavery museum and French garden. Guided tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm. 2247 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. www.laura plantation.com

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300. www.whitneyplantation.com

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White Castle of Louisiana” is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South.

Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. Overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730. www.nottoway.com

Cruises & Tours

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture-perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a spectacular sight.

“The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers overnight accommodations in century-old cottages. Guided tours daily, 9 am-5 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. www.oakalleyplantation.org SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home, built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture

ENTERTAINMENT

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore Louisiana swamplands via guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005 or 888.

GO.SWAMP. www.airboat adventures.com CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. 504.587.7115. www.celebrationtoursllc.com CELEBRATION DISTILLATION TOURS The makers of Old New Orleans Rum offer tours of their facility—the oldest premium distillery continually operating in the U.S. Get a taste of the distillation process...and of the company’s award-winning spirits. Reservations recommended.

JA N U A RY 2 0 2 0

the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; www.creolequeen.com

CITY SIGHTSEEING This double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; www. citysightseeingneworleans.com

DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter.

504.578.8280. www.drinkand learn.com

CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored neighborhoods. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468.

Map 3, J5; www.confederacyof cruisers.com

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line offers a variety of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, Steamboat and River Cruises—and all possible

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. www.haunted historytours.com JEAN LAFITTE SWAMP TOURS This privately owned company with trained guides provides an up-close look at local flora and fauna. Daily swamp and airboat tours are offered. Transportation from area hotels available. 6601 Leo Kerner Lafitte Pkwy., Marrero, 504.529.4567. www.jeanlafitte swamptour.com

NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and informed at the same time. Guided runs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized excursions are also available. 504.858.9988. www. neworleansjoggingtours.com NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOUR These guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city.

Departs Friday to Sunday at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5; www.spiritsandspellstour.com NOLA BREW BUS Beer fans get their fill on these fun, guided tasting tours of local breweries. Private and custom excursions are also available. 1129 Decatur St., 504.655.2153. www.nolabrew bus.com

THE GUIDE

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. All tours depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street); reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; www.frenchquarter phantoms.com

combinations. All depart from the Toulouse Street Wharf.

Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; www.graylineneworleans.com

Entertainment

21+ only. 2815 Fremchmen St., 504.945.9400. Map 1, E2; www.oldneworleansrum.com

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NOLA DRAG TOURS Guide Quinn Laroux takes visitors back in time, focusing on the city’s LGBTQ history.

Entertaining and empowering, the two-hour walking tour also highlights the oft-overlooked contributions of women and people of color. www.noladrag tours.com RIVERBOAT CITY OF NEW ORLEANS The city’s newest riverboat has all of the flair and flavor of the city, with great dining, jazz, bars, history and culture. Daily jazz brunch and dinner cruises are offered. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401.

Map 3, E7; www.riverboatcity ofneworleans.com

N IG H T L IF E

SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm from Backatown Coffee Parlour (301 Basin St.). Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). 504.525.3377. www.save ourcemeteries.org STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; www.steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; www.arnauds.com AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243.

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Map 1, D3; www.theavenue pub.com BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it?

Old-school games (Jenga, Skeeball, air hockey) are the draw... along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry? Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. 601 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6; www.barcadianola.com BARREL PROOF This Lower Garden District hot spot offers more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. 1201 Magazine St., 504.299.1888. Map 3, A7; www.barrelproofnola.com

wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from grilled octopus to caviar and potato chips. Open W-Su. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; www.nolabubbles.com HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the author once stayed here), this hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. The sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave.., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3; www.hottinbar.com

BELLE ÉPOQUE This absinthe-themed bar’s watermarked walls evoke a bygone era. Indulge in more than a dozen varieties of absinthe and creative small plates, such as French onion soup dumplings.

Open Th-Su. 240 Bourbon St., 504.858.7400. Map 3, F4; www.ruebourbon.com

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H4; www. lafittesblacksmithshop.com

BRIEUX CARRÉ This small-batch brewery, steps from Frenchmen Street, offers a rotating variety of craft beers that are “as weird and interesting as the city.”

2115 Decatur St., 504.4242.

Map 3, J5;www.brieuxcarre.com

NOLA BREWING Weekly brewery tours, a massive tap room and inhouse barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996.

Map 1, D4; www.nola brewing.com

CLARET WINE AND COCKTAIL BAR A welcoming neighborhood vibe, 25 wines by the glass, dozens more by the bottle, 30-plus beers, creative drinks and a large selection of charcuterie, cheese and small plates will make you settle in here for a while. D (nightly), Br (F-Su). 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.9425. Map 1, D4; www.claretnola.com

PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; www.patobriens.com

CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st, making it one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3; www.curenola.com EFFERVESCENCE This bubbly spot features 90-plus bottles of sparkling

CI TY NA ME HE RE

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip.

State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites.

727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354.

Map 3, E4; www.penthouse clubneworleans.com SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic cocktails in the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way,

504.309.6530. Map 3, E3; www. therooseveltneworleans.com WALK-ON’S Fittingly within walking distance of the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. Looking for a rowdy atmosphere with self-serve taps in which to watch the game? You’ve found it. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3; www.walk-ons.com WRONG IRON Just off the Lafitte Greenway, this casual beer garden offers 50-plus drafts, along wine and cocktails on tap. Hungry? Grab a bite from one of the visiting food trucks. 3532 Toulouse St., 504.302.4242. Map 1, D3; www.wrongiron.com

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.383.5131. Map 3, J5; www.bluenilelive.com CAFÉ NEGRIL This intimate club features crowd-pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae, and an island-themed atmosphere that sets a mellow vibe. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.383.5131.

Map 3, J5; www.cafenegril nola.com CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers). Live music nightly.

214 Royal St., 504.523.3341.

Map 3, E4; www.hotel monteleone.com

MONTH YEAR

THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport.

921 Canal St., 504.524.1331.

Map 3, E3; www.ritzcarlton.com D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5; www.dbaneworleans.com

GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown venue.

4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567.

Map 1, D3; www.gasagasa.com HI-HO LOUNGE This legendary dive got a recent makeover, replete with an expanded stage and new sound system. Thankfully the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever. Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque.2239 St. Claude Ave, 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4; www.hiholounge.net HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. 225 Decatur St.,

504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; www.hob.com THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of leading local talent is featured nightly. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; www. sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a quintessential N’awlins experience: Fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; www.mapleleafbar.com ONE EYED JACKS Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-burlesque: this French Quarter swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere.

615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361.

Map 3, G4; www.oneeyed jacks.net

PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841.Map 3, G4; www.preservationhall.com SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly.

626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696.Map 3, J4; www.snugjazz.com THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 3 pm on weekends. 623 Frenchmen St., 504943.3887.

Map 3, J5; www.spottedcat musicclub.com STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages are available. Call for current lineup. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6; www.stagedoorcanteen.org THREE KEYS This hip space in the Ace Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans history and culture. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180.

Map 3, D3; www.threekeys nola.com THREE MUSES This hip Frenchmen Street venue offers a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801.

Map 3, J5; www.3muses nola.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; www.tipitinas.com

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THE GUIDE

THE FILLMORE NEW ORLEANS Harrah’s Casino ups the live-music ante with this 22,000 sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue,

which feaures top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; www.fillmorenola.com

Nightlife

CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the MidCity music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. 2828 Canal St., 844.244.2543. Map 1, D3; www.chickiewahwah.com

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 K CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 1 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 2 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 3 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 4 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott at the Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 St OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 ia n e Av OR vOmni e Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 Sp ch lin A Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 Ro FrankOO t S PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RF Royal Frenchman, 400 Esplanade Ave., 619-9660 J4 7 Street Direction RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 French Quarter RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like.

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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N.O. Jazz Museum/ HM Old U.S. Mint

French Market

l ya Ro

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Gov. Nicholls St. Wharf

Riverfront Streetcar Line

Crescent Park

KEY HM

Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

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THE GUIDE

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NEW ORLEANS NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

B

C

D

E

F

G 510

1

1 nman

Dow

10

Rd

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2

10

2

610

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N EW O R L E A N S M AP

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3

Pari s

Rd

3

Gretna

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4 TERRYTOWN

1 mi 2 km

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

SOUTH LOUISIANA 10

A

B

165 13

1

190

10

14

2

Crowley

26

91

14

55

Hammond 190

12

Plaquemine

90

Lafayette

167

182

13

Abbeville

Lake Maurepas 55

Laplace

18

New Iberia

70

90

18

310

20

1

Thibodaux

Franklin 182

2

Metairie

90

Houma

3

90

Kenner

Lafitte

Raceland

90

10

10

New Orleans

1

90

Vermilion Bay

1 59

Slidell

Lake Pontchartrain 10

61

18

3127

Napoleonville

82

82

Covington Abita 41 Springs Mandeville

22

10

1

14

27 35

21

61

31

14

G

16

Folsom

22 30

10 90

21

F

25

12

49

165

10

E 51

16

Baton Rouge 190

190

35

D

Baker

13

26

19

61 1

Opelousas

Eunice

190

C

71 167

29

39 23

3

1 24

Gulf of Mexico

Port Sulphur

56

Atchafalaya Bay

57

Barataria Bay

1

4

Cailou Bay

23

Grand Isle

Buras-Triumph Venice

Gulf of Mexico

Terrebonne Bay

4

10 mi 10 km

A

54 W HERETRAVELER

B

®

NEW ORLE A NS

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F

JA N U A RY 2 0 2 0

G

Sound Advice New Orleans’ next big thing? You’ll likely hear it in the streets. From Bourbon and Canal to Royal and Frenchmen, you’ll discover amazing brass bands performing for free. Be sure to tip.



©ISAAC ARJONILLA

PARTING SHOT

56 W HERETRAVELER

®

NEW ORLE A NS

JA N U A RY 2 0 2 0

New Orleans Craft Cocktail Walking Tour

Spend an Evening with Gray Line and the Spirit of Your Choice Call for reservations and other exciting tours 504-569-1401 or 800-233-2628 | www.GLNO.com

steamboat

Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com

Escape The Ordinary Located on the Louisiana Great River Road Byway, between New Orleans and Baton Rouge www.nottoway.com | (225) 545-2730 DINING

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