Where Magazine New Orleans Dec 2017

DECEMBER 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

®

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New Orleans

DECEMBER 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

®

LET IT SNOW! ‘White Christmas,’ a Naughty ‘Nutcracker’ and More Holiday Happenings

JOYFUL NOISES BEIGNET FEST

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HOME TOURS

Fresh Florida

STONE CRABS Now Available

Open 5 p.m. Daily • 322 Magazine Street • 504.522.7902 • chophousenola.com

New Orleans CONTENTS

12.17

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the plan

the guide 24

9 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Andrew Morgan JW Marriott concierge.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus Beignet Fest and special holiday menus.

10 Editor’s Itinerary A 90-minute exploration of Canal Street to make the most of your time in the city.

XX 32 SHOPPING

12 Hot Dates

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus serious stocking stuffers and PJs Coffee.

15

GALLERIES &

41 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl.

Plus Magazine Street mustvisits and artful eyes.

47 ENTERTAINMENT XX Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs.

Plus holiday home tours and ringing in 2018.

XX

58

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus the Tammany Trace.

72 New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for music buffs, luxury lovers and history fans.

ON THE COVER

New Orleans

DECEMBER 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

®

Powdered sugar-

LET IT SNOW!

dusted beignets,

16

where now

XX

66

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus a fresh perspective on the past.

‘White Christmas,’ a Naughty ‘Nutcracker’ and More Holiday Happenings

14 Holiday Happenings

the star attraction of this month's

Small-fry big fun and festive favorites.

Beignet Fest. ©JOSE

JOYFUL NOISES BEIGNET FEST

GILL/SHUTTERSTOCK

NAVIGATE

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CONNECT WITH US

HOME TOURS

11/3/17 3:57 PM

16 Out + About

Prospect.4 and PhotoNOLA, Santas behaving badly and a month packed with sporting events.

17 Events

Blazes of glory: holiday light displays.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

Peruvian cuisine, dining dish and decadent desserts.

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 69-71

(LEFT) ©CHERYL GERBER; (CENTER, TOP) ©BOB CAREY/TRANS-SIBERIAN ORCHESTRA; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©ZACK SMITH/PHOTONOLA

Holiday Concerts Caroling, caroling now we go, the Grateful Dead lives on, Randy Newman, Tank and the Bangas and 15 other entertainment ideas to entertain.

YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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8 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Andrew Morgan Concierge at the JW Marriott Q: You have two young children. What local holiday traditions do you most look forward to sharing with them?

A: Celebration in the Oaks (p. 17). We love City Park any time of year, but dressed up for Christmas, it’s a special joy. We also like the Louisiana Children’s Museum’s (p. 55) Christmas trees from around the world.

Q: Suggest a few family dining spots.

A: Carrollton Market (p. 31) is really great.

My wife and I are pretty heavy foodies, and the caliber of the cuisine is next to any of the most trendy places in the city. But the vibe is so different. Chef Goodenough is very family oriented, which is refreshing for such a stylish, contemporary place. Also Arnaud’s (p. 25); the team there always takes care of you like you’re family.

Q: Prospect.4 continues this month. Name one art gallery visitors should seek out.

A: M.S. Rau (p. 44) must be the best antiques gallery in the South, but its art collection is also second to none. A lot of people just pass it by and don’t realize what a remarkable collection it holds.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY/TABLEAU

Q: Where are we most likely to find you on New Year’s Eve? A: Jackson Square. You can’t beat it; it’s free, the music is great. Grab a cocktail from Tableau (p. 29) and watch the fleur de lis drop. That’s really where it’s at.

Q: What is New Orleans’ greatest gift?

A: The gift of taking it easy.

Tableau

9

EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY NEWS TO TRAVEL BY

The Essential New Orleans Need a little Christmas? You’re in for a lot of it. From the Krewe of Jingle parade along Canal Street and City Park’s Celebration in the Oaks to caroling in Jackson Square and bonfires along the riverfront, December offers a variety of events to get you in the spirit of the season.

90 MINUTES ON

Canal Street

MEET SANTA EVERY FRI & SAT IN DECEMBER !

FROM 8-10PM

From the late-19th to the mid-20th century, Canal Street was a Southern shopping and entertainment mecca, lined with showy theaters and grand department stores, a number of which have since been converted into even grander hotels, such as the Ritz-Carlton.

Today it’s the tony Shops at Canal Place that draws crowds with Saks Fifth Avenue, Tiffany & Co. and other high-end retailers. Site of Vitascope Hall, the nation’s first movie theater, Canal also counts the Saenger, Joy and Loews State theaters, in addition to Harrah’s Casino and the Audubon Insectarium. Streetcars marked “Cemeteries” travel the full length of the street, from the river to City Park Avenue, passing the city’s burgeoning biomedical district along the way.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

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10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

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WHERE CALENDAR DECEMBER

For more information: wheretraveler.com

Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com

TOP STOPS

HOT

12 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

CIVIC THEATER Dec. 31: DJ Soul Sister’s 15th Annual New Year’s Eve Soul Train. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865; civicnola.com

DATES

HOUSE OF BLUES Dec. 3: The Spill Canvas; Dec. 16: Flatland Cavalry; Dec. 21: Robert Earl Keen. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583; hob.com

THROUGHOUT THE MONTH:

Holiday Concerts

You’ll hear joyful noises all over the city beginning Dec. 2, when songbird Robin Barnes kicks off the free Christmas New Orleans Style Concert Series (fqfi.org) at historic St. Augustine Church. Performances also take place at St. Louis Cathedral; keep an ear out for Ellis Marsalis (Dec. 4), BeauSoleil (Dec. 6) and the Panorama Jazz Band (Dec. 13). Area school choirs sound off in the lobby of the Hotel Monteleone (hotelmonteleone.com) Dec. 4-8 and Dec. 11-15. Join in Dec. 17 during the Patio Planters’ Caroling in Jackson Square gathering (patioplanters.net). Now in its 71st year the candlelit sing-along draws hundreds of locals and visitors alike.

Cirque Holidaze

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

CIRQUE DREAMS HOLIDAZE > DEC. 5 Gingerbread acrobats, tightrope-walking toy soldiers, singing ornaments: The ho-hum holiday pageant gets ramped way up with this high-energy spectacle at the Saenger Theatre. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 1

caption here Tank and the Bangas

DEAD & COMPANY > DEC. 5 Grateful Dead members Mickey Hart, Bill Kreutzmann and Bob Weir get truckin’ with singer/guitarist John Mayer, Allman Brothers bassist Oteil Burbridge and RatDog keyboardist Jeff Chimenti at the Smoothie King Center.

1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 2

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

A MAN AND HIS PROSTATE > DEC. 89 Oh, Mr. Grant! Leave it to Ed Asner to make a serious topic like prostate cancer sidesplittingly 3

12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

funny. Catch his one-man show at Le Petit Theatre. 616 St. Ann St., 504.522.2081 RANDY NEWMAN > DEC. 12 The Oscar-, Emmy-, Grammy-winning singer/ songwriter/composer returns home for the holidays to perform his score of scores at the Orpheum Theater. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870 4

5 A DRAG QUEEN CHRISTMAS > DEC. 13 You know Dasher and Dancer, but what about Latrice and Eureka? Contestants from “RuPaul’s Drag Race” hit the Civic Theater with full-on holiday fierceness. 510 O’Keefe St.; civicnola.com

TANK AND THE BANGAS > DEC. 31 It’s been a big, breakout year for the hard-topeg New Orleans group that won the 2017 NPR Tiny Desk Contest. Celebrate with them as they ring in 2018 at the Joy Theater. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569 6

LE PETIT THEATRE Dec. 22 & 23: Harry Shearer and Judith Owens’ “Christmas Without Tears.” 616 St. Ann St., 504.522.2081; lepetittheatre.com ORPHEUM THEATER Dec. 29-31: The Revivalists. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870; orpheumnola.com SAENGER THEATRE Dec. 1: The Avett Brothers; Dec. 15: “The Legend of Zelda: Symphony of the Goddesses.” 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000; saengernola.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Dec. 28: Xscape with Monica and Tamar Braxton. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000; smoothiekingcenter.com

(TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER; (CENTER) ©CIRQUE DREAMS HOLIDAZE; (BOTTOM) ©GUS BENNETT JR.

Caroling in Jackson Square

JOY THEATER Dec. 8: The Soul Rebels featuring Curren$y and Talib Kweli; Dec. 10: Hari Kondaboulu; Dec. 30: The New Mastersounds. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569; thejoytheater.com

where now New Orleans

The city’s top events, attractions, entertainment, dining and more

HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS

Merriment on the Mississippi From reindeer runs to Santa crawls, a Yuletide guide to Christmas Crescent City-style

The Moscow Ballet’s Great Russian Nutcracker 14 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

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Family Affairs

HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS WITH THE VICTORY BELLES Christmas past is present at the National WWII Museum’s Stage Door Canteen, where the Victory Belles (think the Andrews Sisters morphed with the Rockettes) salute the holiday season with a full month of performances. stagedoorcanteen.org

Six ways to get tiny tots’ eyes all aglow.

Miracle on Fulton Street • Dec. 2-24. Simulated snowfalls, caroling, Santa sightings.

Fulton Street corridor; miracleonfulton.com

(TOP) ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM; (CENTER) ©BOB CAREY/TRANS-SIBERIAN ORCHESTRA; (BOTTOM) ©NOLA CHRISTMAS FEST; (OPENING PAGE) ©MOSCOW BALLET

Krewe of Jingle Parade • Dec. 2 at 1 pm.

Along Canal Street; downtownnola.com/ holidays

The Victory Belles

Reindeer Run & Romp and Holiday Scavenger Hunt • Dec. 9 at 9 am.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St.; downtownnola.com/ holidays

Jingle Bugs • Dec. 10. Who’s hungry for bugnog and fruit-fly cake?! Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium, 423 Canal St.; auduboninstitute.org

Movies on the Mississippi • Free holiday film screenings at 6:30 pm. Dec. 8: “The Polar Express”; Dec. 15: “Elf.” New Orleans Convention Center Plaza, Convention Center Blvd.; downtownnola. com/holidays

NOLA ChristmasFest • Dec. 22-31. Ice skating, ice slides, carnival rides, gingerbread displays. New Orleans Convention Center, Convention Center Blvd.; nolachristmas fest.com

Trans-Siberian Orchestra

WHITE CHRISTMAS Irving Berlin’s 1950s musical comedy has established itself as one of the most popular holiday movies of all time. Catch the traveling Broadway production at the Saenger Dec. 19-24. saengernola.com

ORPHEUM HOLIDAY SPECTACULAR The Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra joins forces with the 610 Stompers dance crew (“ordinary men with extraordinary moves”) Dec. 9-10 at the Orpheum Theater. orpheumnola.com

TRANSSIBERIAN ORCHESTRA This group, known for its laser-light shows, has had fans rocking around the Christmas tree for more than two decades. This year’s production, an update of 1999’s “The Ghosts of Christmas Eve,” lights up the Smoothie King Center Dec. 20. smoothiekingcenter.com

PRESERVATION HALL’S CREOLE CHRISTMAS It doesn’t get much more joyful—or New Orleans-y—than this jazzed-up holiday hoedown. Matinee performances are held Dec. 17 and on Christmas Eve. preservationhall.com

HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS Troy “Trombone Shorty” Andrews, Irma Thomas, Kermit Ruffins: The all-star lineup for this annual concert is hard to beat. Slide on some dancing shoes and head to the House of Blues Dec. 22. hob.com

Christmas Classics The Sugar Plum Fairy, the dancing snowflakes and towering tree: Christmas isn’t Christmas without a performance of The Nutcracker. That’s why New Orleans mounts three separate takes on the holiday standard each year. The New Orleans Ballet Theatre takes a crack at it Dec. 14, 16, 17 and 22 at the Orpheum Theater (orpheumnola.com), followed by the Delta Festival Ballet Dec. 22 and 23 at the Mahalia Jackson Theater (mahaliajacksontheater.com). On Dec. 26 the Moscow Ballet jetés into the Saenger (saengernola.com) with its 25th annual North American touring production. “The Nutcracker” not your thing? Try one of these other seasonal shows:

NOLA Christmas Fest

15

WHERE NOW New

Orleans The Naughty List These big-kid events think outside the traditional holiday box.

Prospect.4

RUNNING OF THE SANTAS Thousands of studly St. Nicks, risqué reindeer and inebriated elves take to the streets of the CBD Dec. 9 for “the world’s naughtiest pub crawl.” The nog gets flowing at 3 pm at Manning’s, where the booze-fueled run gets going at 6 pm. The post-party includes a costume contest and live music. runningofthesantas.com

BIG FREEDIA’S HOLIDAY BOUNCE AROUND THE BLOCK PARTY New Orleans’ Queen of Bounce leads a booty-popping procession along St. Claude Avenue Dec. 16, beginning at 8 pm, with stops at the Art Garage, the AllWays Lounge, Siberia and more. Live performances at each venue. theallwayslounge.net AIR SEX CHAMPIONSHIPS HOLIDAY SPECIAL This isn’t your grandma’s pantomime. Think you’ve seen it all?

Think again Dec. 22 at One Eyed Jacks. oneeyedjacks.net Running of the Santas

VERY BAD SANTA CRAWL & KREWE OF KRINGLE PARADE Yes, Virginia, there’s more than one soused Santa event in town.

A second round pours into the French Quarter Dec. 9 at 5 pm, followed by another at 7 pm.

Consider yourself warned.

PhotoNOLA Caption

OUT+ABOUT

Gifts of Art Art isn’t just in the eye of the beholder but everywhere you look this month. Prospect.4, the fourth iteration of the largest periodic international contemporary art exhibition in the U.S., continues through February at 17 different venues (and 60-plus satellite spaces) around the city. Works in a wide range of media by 73 artists from 25-plus countries are featured. PhotoNOLA, now in its 11th year, focuses on photography. The sprawling event, which takes place Dec. 7-10, mounts more than 20 exhibits at local galleries, and spotlights an additional 70 up-and-comers during its Dec. 8 PhotoWalk showcase at the Ogden Museum’s Taylor Library. Get out and get cultured. prospectneworleans.org; photonola.org 16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

GOOD SPORTS Sports fans score big during December with the New Orleans Bowl kicking things off at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome Dec. 16. The following day the New Orleans Saints take on the New York Jets, but it’s their Christmas Eve matchup against the Atlanta Falcons that tops Who Dats’ wish lists. The New Orleans Pelicans hit the hardwood seven times at the Smoothie King Center, closing out the month against the New York Knicks Dec. 30. B’ball buffs will also want to catch the CBS Sports Classic’s North Carolina-Ohio State and Kentucky-UCLA doubleheader Dec. 23. The Allstate Sugar Bowl’s free fan fest takes over the Jax Brewery parking lot Dec. 30-31, and includes a New Year’s Eve parade along Decatur Street at 3 pm.

(LEFT, TOP) ©KATHERINE BRADFORD, EDWARD THORPE GALLERY, NEW YORK; CANADA GALLERY, NEW YORK; (LEFT, BOTTOM) ©ZACK SMITH/PHOTONOLA; (RIGHT, TOP) ©RUNNING OF THE SANTAS; (RIGHT, BOTTOM) ©CHERYL GERBER

NAUGHTY “NUTCRACKER” The Fleur de Tease burlesque troupe puts a sexy spin on the classic ballet Dec. 2 and 3 at One Eyed Jacks, incorporating aerialists, magicians and scantily clad performers to help flesh things out. oneeyedjacks.net

(CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT) ©CHERYL GERBER; ©BRYCE ELL PHOTOGRAPHY; ©MARCUS CARTER; ©SHAWN FINK

Gallier Hall and Luna Fête fun; Christmas Eve bonfires (left)

EVENTS

Merry and Bright From the riverfront to the lakefront, December visitors will find the city glowing with holiday light displays.

Celebration in the Oaks

CELEBRATION IN THE OAKS This dazzling display draws thousands to scenic City Park each year with dozens of illuminated holiday vignettes spread over 25 acres.

Highlights include the “Dripping Snow Tree,” a massive live oak covered with 42,000 twinkling lights. celebrationintheoaks.com

ALGIERS BONFIRE & CONCERT Hop the ferry at the foot of Canal Street Dec. 2 to take in this blaze of glory along the Mississippi River.

Designed to help guide the way for Papa Noël, the family-friendly affair features live entertainment beginning at 5:30 pm, before the big burn at 8:30 pm. algiersbonfire.com

LUNA FÊTE This state-of-the-art spectacle uses video-mapping technology to transform Lafayette Square’s circa-1853 Gallier Hall into a modern masterpiece. Free viewings take place Dec. 6-9, from 6 to 10 pm.

You’ll find additional interactive installations lining Lafayette Street. artsneworleans.org/event/luna-fete

CHRISTMAS EVE BONFIRES Head 40 miles upriver to St. James parish Dec. 24, and you’ll spot more than 100 additional pyres in all shapes and sizes lining the riverfront between Gramercy and Paulina. Can’t make it Christmas Eve? Check out the Festival of the Bonfires Dec. 8-10 in Lutcher. festivalofthebonfires.org 17

WHERE NOW New

Orleans Hot Dish

Curio

What’s new, now and not to be missed.

FOOD+DRINK

Peruvian Plates New Orleans is a robust food playground, constantly expanding with new cuisines to fold into the local culinary fabric. African, Haitian, Italian, German and French are origin foods that compose what is thought of as Creole and Cajun. The arrival of Central American and Vietnamese people resulted in their foods finding a place at the NOLA table as well. Every now and then a cuisine will appear and take hold, maintaining its native form; the newest food-comer is Peruvian.

Cuzco (4714 Freret St., 504.345.

2884) offers staples like ceviche spiked with the soft heat of aji chili peppers, garnished with thick sweet potato slices, red onions and Peruvian-style corn nuts. Shredded chicken and Louisiana shrimp join a seafood medley served on lemony, aji-flecked mashed yellow potatoes. For the steak-and-potato set, there’s Lomo Saltado—strips of beef with onions, tomatoes, rice and wide-cut fries.

The Catahoula Hotel (914 Union St., 504.603.2442) is home to the cool Piscobar café. As the name suggests, the menu is largely dedicated to pisco-based cocktails.

The brief, modern-traditional menu has fresh, crisp and bright-flavored salads and chilled whipped potato “causa” with a shiitake mushroom and avocado stack dressed with aioli. An intersection of Peru and Louisiana, the Catahoula sandwich

is layered with local wild boar sausage, greens, avocado, grilled onions and aji chili on a French bun.

Reflecting the influences of China, Japan, Italy and Spain, as well as Incan inspiration, Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco (5015 Magazine St., 504.267.7612) is the most recent Peruvian opening. Start with a frothy Pisco Sour or a rendition that partners pisco with pulpy tamarind.

From the warm appetizers, choose skewers of lightly charred octopus seasoned with aji and chimichurri. Entrees can go traditional or seafood-centric. Lomo Saltado has pisco to push the flavors of onions, tomatoes and double starches (rice and crispy potatoes), while Chaufa de Mariscos, a nod to Chinese fried rice, is generously studded with seafood.

Welcome to New Orleans’ culturally expansive food scene. Time to do some Peru-sin’. —Lorin Gaudin

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

LA BOULANGERIE Chef Maggie Scales has put her bakery café on the must-stop map. New additions and wellmade classics, like almond croissants, sit side-by-side with freshly baked breads and gorgeous savory and sweet pastries. Back in vogue are simple French-style lunches of quiche, salad and the classic “beurre jambon”—a sandwich of ham and good butter

on crusty baguette, given oomph with the addition of funky, soft Comté cheese and cornichons.

4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777 SPOTTED CAT FOOD & SPIRITS The famed Frenchmen Street music club recently opened this eatery/live music/cocktail lounge on a bustling corner of St. Claude Avenue. Chef Rob Clement rolls out spins on grilled cheese, burgers and more, with some Asian inspiration. Brunch is where the food shines with surprises like breakfast risotto and salty-sweet miso-bacon pancakes. A homemade “everything” bagel forms the foundation for the Uncle Itchy and its smoked salmon, cream cheese and condiments. Hunger itch scratched. 2372 St. Claude Ave., 504.371.5074 —LG

LAST BITE All through December local restaurants celebrate Reveillon (p. 24) with prix-fixe menus filled with decadent dishes and over-the-top desserts. Blake Abene, executive pastry chef at Restaurant R’evolution (p. 29), likes to work traditional flavors in a contemporary way. For R’evolution’s Reveillon dessert course there’s a sweet-tart Quince Bread Pudding (shown), but go off-menu and add some of Abene’s other holiday sweets for a pinch of extravagance. His Pear Clafoutis (a sort of poofy flan) is coupled with a quenelle of blue cheese ice cream. Looking for pumpkin pie? Abene’s rendition is prepared in the guise of a soufflé, incorporating cushaw (a pumpkin variety) and warming spices. Airy and warm, it’s the elegant and cozy blanket of desserts. —LG

(LEFT) ©CATAHOULA HOTEL; (RIGHT) ©CURIO; (BOTTOM) ©RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION

Piscobar

CURIO Taking its name from a one-time curiosity shop, this Creole soul is new to Royal Street. Executive chef Hayley Vanvleet’s menus stroll through Louisiana’s land, air and waters for modern takes on local favorites. Think duck-andblack-eyed pea gumbo spicekicked with andouille; a pastramiseasoned Shrimp Reuben layered with Swiss, Thousand Island relish, roasted garlic mayo and shredded cabbage; and cane syrup-glazed short ribs atop cheddar grits. 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

NEW ORLEANS GIFT GUIDE

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Adorn & Conquer, 2727 Prytania St., The Rink, Suite 6, New Orleans, LA 70130 www.adornandconquer.com

QUEORK This women’s wallet is made using REAL CORK! The outer fabric is sealed with silicone making it durable like leather, water resistant and easy to clean with a damp cloth. $65 838 Chartres Street, 504-481-4910, www.queork.com

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635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001 www.bijounola.com.

20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

BEATRIXBELL HANDCRAFTED JEWELRY Beatrixbell Handcrafted Jewelry & Gift is a design studio located on the banks of the Mississippi River in historic Algiers Point, only blocks from the ferry landing. Featuring their namesake jewelry line as well as local art, Louisiana made gifts, and other curated treasures. Modern and fresh, these geometric earrings are created with mixed metals, luscious patinas and semi precious stones. 14 karat gold dipped ear wires. 337 Morgan Street, Suite A 504-507-0955, beatrixbell.com

VINTAGE CHANEL BRACELET Substantial gilt oval link with toggle clasp bracelet hung with seven large iconic Chanel charms. Circa 1986. Made in France. Vintage 329, 329 Royal Street NOLA, 504.525.2262

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION Add a New Orleans touch to your holiday decorations with handmade stockings by local artist Jill Shampine. $50 each.

Shipping available. 533 Royal St. Open Tue–Sat, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Sun, 10:30 am–4:30 pm.

(504) 598-7147, www.hnoc.org/shop

BEVOLO GAS AND ELECTRIC LIGHTS The Governor Pool House Lantern from Bevolo, can be used to fill the night with a soft candlelight glow, display seasonal items, or your favorite collections. Available in antique copper or stainless steel. 304/316/318 Royal St. French Quarter, Bevolo.com

NOLA TIL YA DIE A tried-and-true brand with a fantastic selection of apparel and accessories. There’s something for everyone online or at their fun Mid City shop. Be sure to check out the Til Ya Die® collections too. Custom designs and orders welcome. NOLA Til Ya Die, 3536 Toulouse St, 504.281.4928, nolatilyadie.com

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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

SHOE BE DO New Orleans greatest addiction importing shoes from all over the world. ‘Curing the world of ugly shoes, one foot at a time’.

Shoe Be Do 324 Chartres Street.

504.523.7463 www.ShoeBeDoUSA.com.

VINTAGE 329 Specializing in vintage barware like these Culver Prado design with 22kt gold overlay “low ball” or “rocks” glasses. 329 Royal Street, (504) 525-2262

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION Remember your time in New Orleans year after year with a keepsake ornament. These glass ornaments come in multiple designs, each capturing a different aspect of the city’s colorful culture. Miniature alligator shown is $10. Shipping available.

533 Royal St. Open Tue–Sat, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Sun, 10:30 am–4:30 pm. (504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop

RODRIGUE STUDIOS Rodrigue Jewelry Collection Each stunning piece was originally designed by artist George Rodrigue, and meticulously handcrafted by Douglas Magnus of Santa Fe, NM. Available only through Rodrigue Studio. Starting at $475. Rodrigue Studio, 730 Royal Street, 504.581.4244, georgerodrigue.com

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RALPH BRENNAN RESTAURANT GROUP Feed your favorite foodie this holiday season with these coveted cookbooks! Grab your autographed copies of the award-winning Ralph Brennan’s New Orleans Seafood Cookbook, along with The Original Brennan’s Cookbook online at www.neworleans-food. com/shop RALPH BRENNAN RESTAURANT GROUP Feed your favorite foodie this holiday season with these coveted cookbooks! Grab your autographed copies of the award-winning Ralph Brennan’s New Orleans Seafood Cookbook, along with The Original Brennan’s Cookbook online at www.neworleans-food. com/shop

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

GALLERY TWO Design your own rhythm, create a signature look, collect at your own pace with stacking rings by Ann Marie Cianciolo. Two Women.

Two Artists. Two Expressions. Gallery Two. 831 Royal St., 504-513-8312, gallerytwonola.com.

Open late on weekends.

FLEUR D’ORLEANS The Designers at Fleur d’ Orleans have created hundreds of jewelry and gift designs inspired by the architectural treasures of New Orleans. At the heart of the French Quarter the Cabildo (1795) was the seat of government during the colonial period. These unique earrings, inspired by a wrought iron balustrade on the Cabildo, celebrate New Orleans’ design heritage and history. 14KT gold plated earrings $50. Visit Fleur d’Orleans in the Quarter or on Magazine Street: 818 Chartres / 3701a Magazine 504.899.5585 / 504.475.5254

ART & EYES Art & Eyes carries over 1500 handmade frames, optical and suns, starting from $75. In addition, some of the finest accessory artisans are featured here. Pictured Thierry Lasry, handmade in France.

3708 Magazine Street, (504)891-4494, www.Artandeyesnola.com

THE GIVING TREE The Giving Tree Gallery features distinctive contemporary home decor and award winning designer jewelry in a wide range of price points. Table lamp, Anika, is one of several highly designed lamps offered at The Giving Tree Gallery, featuring hand blown glass and elegant fabrics.

Shop this collection and many others at 738 Royal Street / 829 Chartres Street in the French Quarter - 504-475-5906 / or on St. Armands Circle in Sarasota, Florida. Shop online at: wwwTheGivingTreeGallery.com

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the guide Dining December

Festive Feasting

Beignet Binge

Restaurants citywide serve up special holiday offerings during December. Harking back to the 19th-century French tradition of multicourse dinners following Christmas Eve midnight Mass, Reveillon menus (followyourjoy.com) are found all over town, from Antoine’s to Vacherie.

Take Commander’s Palace, which weighs in with seven serious courses (foie gras-and-Riesling pie with duck liver ice cream, lobster-and-grilled corn pudding, squab-stuffed quail) that culminate with milk and cookies. Seafood lovers should visit Avo (p. 30, shown), where the Feast of the Seven Fishes pays homage to the city’s Sicilian heritage. A bit of liquid cheer? Check cocktail menus for toast-worthy Toddy Season creations (talesofthecocktail.com).

Can’t get enough of New Orleans’ signature pastry? Beeline it to Beignet Fest, where more than a dozen vendors serve up both sweet (bananas Foster) and savory (bacon and cheddar with chipotle creama) versions Dec. 2, from 10 am to 5 pm, at City Park’s Festival Grounds. Live music is performed throughout the day. beignetfest.com

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St.

Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, jerk black drum and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? Roasted banana zeppole with rum caramel. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D

(nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine

dining spots. James Beard Award-winning chef Rebecca Wilcomb’s menu changes fequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com. 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. The “Peanut Butter Pie Budino” is a must for dessert. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily);

(LEFT) ©AVO; (RIGHT) ©ZACK SMITH/NOCVB

Central Business/ Warehouse District

DINING

brunch (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple

seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap, live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7

RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com.

630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue

and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L, D (daily). www.centralcitybbq.com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the country ham-wrapped rabbit leg. $$$ D (W-Su); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola.com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................24

Central City..................................................................................................25 French Quarter........................................................................................25 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 30 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................30 Mid-City..........................................................................................................30 Uptown..........................................................................................................30

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquettenola.com

over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and

delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. $ B, L, D (daily).

Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5

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Enjoy an afternoon drink in our courtyard.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

DINING

CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The

French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the baby back ribs, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and fresh grilled redfish with soft-shell crab. Live jazz nightly (no cover). $$ L, D (daily). www.crescentcitybrewhouse. com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.curionola. com. 301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue rib eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. Save room for the killer coconut cake. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 FAUBOURG BISTRO Eclectic. Tucked into the 700

Club bar, Faubourg rocks a menu of hearty pub fare: wedge salads; wings topped with peanut sauce, bacon and jelly; red beans-and-rice burgers; mac-and-cheese skillets. Open until 2 am; delivery until midnight. $ L, D (daily). www.faubourgbistro. com. 700 Burgundy St., 504.439.5842. Map 3, G3 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Owners Gary Wollerman and

chef Tenney Flynn have taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons.com. 365 Canal St., 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro recently received a full makeover to mark 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

DINING

its 25th anniversary. The new small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings with peanut sauce and smoked crab cheesecake boulettes. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils. com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com.

309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); brunch (Su). www.revolutionnola.com.

777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south

of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); brunch (Su). www.sobounola. com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 TRINITY Louisiana. The menu here pays homage

to the “trinity” of flavors, elements and techniques in New Orleans cuisine. Hush puppies get richness from duck fat, while the cucumber salad w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

refreshes with crisp apples and pairs perfectly with the citrusy seared snapper. $$$ D (Tu-Su), brunch (F-Su). www.trinityrestaurantneworleans.com. 1117 Decatur St., 504.325.5789. Map 3, I5 TUJAGUE’S Creole. Open since 1856, Tujague’s

(“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.tujaguesrestaurant.com. 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes and decadent chocolate beignets making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti. St., 504.708.4366. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L, D (W-Su). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/

bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); brunch (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3 THREE MUSES Eclectic. This Frenchmen Street hot

spot offers a clubby vibe, live music, smart cocktails and amazing eats. Raves are drawn for the menu’s variety and chef Daniel Esses’ stellar preparations of small plate-portioned lamb slider and feta fries. $ D (W-M). www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1 restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); brunch (Su). www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2

1000 FIGS Mediterranean. This popular Mid-City

spot is the brick-and-mortar space of the team behind the equally popular Fat Falafel food truck.

Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj and lamb. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.1000figs.com. 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown APOLLINE Louisiana. In this renovated shotgun

house, contemporary twists on French/Creole cuisine make diners feel right at home. Char-broiled oysters with bacon marmalade, cold-smoked pork chops, seared scallops with maque choux and pork plank; at brunch try the confit duck with potato hash, duck cracklin and Hollandaise. $$$ Brunch, D (Tu-Su). www.apollinerestaurant.com. 4729 Magazine St., 504.894.8881. Map 1, D4 AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BRIGTSEN’S Creole. A protegé of Paul Prudhom-

me, chef Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.brigtsens.com. 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 3, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the salmon poke tacos before devouring the tunaand-crab picatta or a double-stacked burger with Sazerac-spiked barbecue sauce. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays

homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine.

Think oyster toast, alligator chorizo-stuffed squash blossoms and gumbo with crab fat rice. Killer cocktail program. $$ D (M-Sa); brunch (F-M). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon).

Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate French

bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); brunch (Su). www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans land-

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all

of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); brunch (Su). www.patoisnola.com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare with contemporary flare. Top picks include the pakoda choti, roti sathi and any of the crispy dosa on the brunch menu. $$ D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.saffronnola. com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

THE GUIDE

Shopping

It’s a Wrap

Hot Commodity

Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens may sing of life’s simple pleasures, but come Christmastime our list of favorite things is a bit more extravagant. This year make it a high-end holiday with: eye-catching eyewear from Art & Eyes (p. 38); ceramic animal sculpture fragrance diffusers from Avery Fine Perfumery (p. 37, shown); a wooden Trojan horse pull toy from the Idea Factory (p. 34); imported French candies from La Rivière Confiserie (p. 36); a Faivet “cigar pen” from Papier Plume (p. 34); cork sleeping masks from Queork (p. 37); naughty-but-nice lingerie from Trashy Diva (p. 34); retro bar ware from Vintage 329 (p. 46).

Baby, it’s cold outside. Warm up with a butter-rum latte at PJs Coffee (pjscoffee. com). One of the city’s first specialty coffeehouses, PJs is now global, yet still stays true to its local roots. Take its NOLAthemed holiday cups. No, really, take one home with a bag of beans for a taste of New Orleans year-round.

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKSWilliam Faulkner lived at

this address in 1925, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, along with a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 KITCHEN WITCH New, used and vintage

cookbooks are on the menu at this charming shop geared to foodies. Special emphasis is placed on hard-to-find Southern titles and rare volumes devoted to Creole and Cajun cuisine. www.kwcookbooks.com. 1452 Broad St., 504.528.8382. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5

SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music

shop is big on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

There’s a lot more going on this month Visit us online:

FLEURTY GIRL Lauren Haydel has

become a mini mogul, thanks largely to her popular line of women’s T-shirts, celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3

wheretraveler.com

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part

boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5; 1113 St. Mary St., 504.484.9830. Map 3, E4 DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans

couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4

H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-toresist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www. hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 LOST AND FOUND What you’ll find at this fun

French Quarter shop is a constantly changing inventory of women’s clothing and accessories mixed with offbeat gift items. www.lostandfoundnola. com. 323 Chartres St., 504.595.6745. Map 3, F4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City

TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE , produced in Avery Island, La., is labeled in 22 languages and sold in more than 165 countries and territories around the globe.

32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

(LEFT) ©AVERY FINE PERFUMERY; (RIGHT) ©PJS COFFEE

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

SHOPPING

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www. louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 32

Clothing........................................................................................................ 32 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 34 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 36 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 36 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 37 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 38 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 38 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 39 Shoes............................................................................................................... 40 Special Services...................................................................................... 40

love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 PENELOPE Affordable luxury is the key phrase at

this sophisticated women’s boutique. Searching for edgy elegance with a European accent? You’ll find it here at hard-to-beat prices: All items are under $100. 328 Chartres St., 504.522.5893. Map 3, F4 PERLIS Mudbug season lasts year-round at Perlis,

purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. In addition, Perlis carries such specialty items as Mardi Gras-hued rugby shirts. www.perlis.com.

600 Decatur St., 504.523.6681. Map 3, G5; 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661. Map 1, D4 PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child at this

upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish European shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. www.pippenlane.com. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4 PRIMA DONNA’S CLOSET This upscale consign-

ment shop is a favorite among locals in search of great bargains. The focus is on gently worn fashions for both women and men—from casual to evening wear—featuring such celebrated designer lines as Armani, Chanel, Gucci and Prada, among others. www.primadonnascloset.com. 1206 St. Charles Ave., 504.522.3327. Map 3, A5; 927 Royal St., 504.875.4437. Map 3, H4 RUBENSTEIN’S The Rubenstein family has been

outfitting locals since 1924. But the fashions here are anything but dated: Zegna, Canali and Paul Smith are just a sampling of the designers in stock. www.rubensteinsneworleans.com. 102 St. Charles Ave., 504.581.6666. Map 3, E4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 TUXEDOS TO GEAUXWhy rent a tux when you can

own one? This formal wear shop dresses men to the nines—complete with shirt, tie and cummerbund—for under $200. www.tuxedostogeaux.com.

3400 16th St., Metairie, 504.455.5393. Map 1, C2 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4 URBAN OUTFITTERS The local branch of this

national chain has infused the French Quarter with a big dose of youthful trendiness. Fun casual wear for both sexes is featured, along with cool accessories. www.urbanoutfitters.com. 400 N. Peters St., 504.679.0930. Map 3, F5 VIOLET’S One-of-a-kind women’s clothing, jewelry

and accessories with a French Victorian feel are the trademarks of this boutique, which features handpicked selections from top designers. 808 Chartres St., 504.569.0088. Map 3, G4 WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European women’s wear,

from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by such leading designers as Piazza Sempione and Stella McCartney. www.weinsteinsinc.com. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4

Gifts & Collectibles ANTHROPOLOGIE Anthropology means “the study

of humans,” but at this trendy home furnishing/ women’s clothing chain the focus is more on the study of style. The local branch features unusual gift items by area artists and designers. www. anthropologie.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.592.9972. Map 3, E5 BOTTOM OF THE CUP In addition to psychic read-

ings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories. Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. www.bottomofthecup.com. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4 BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRE.Searching for a set of

custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. www.feelthebite.com. 709 St. Ann St., 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4 BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM Watch

master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4

DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers hand-crafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop,

you’ll find fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery—along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4 GEM DE FRANCE Where do French Quarter Franco-

philes go for authentic French Country table linens, shea-butter soaps, lavendar bundles and trés chic home accents? To Gem de France, naturally, where you’ll find plenty of Parisian imports to ooh-lala over. www.gemdefrance.com. 729 Royal St., 504.571.6304. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures.

New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.littletoyshopnola.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are

ART & EY&S 3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494

artandeyesneworleansla.com

HAVE A COOL YULE. Indy eyewear like no where else.

SALE 20 to 50% off

all frames including lenses on floor!!!

THE GUIDE

featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 PLUM This hip home and gift shop is devoted to

“cool stuff for stylish living,” much of which is created by local crafters. Handmade housewares, artful accents, jazzy jewelry: If it’s both fun and functional, you’ll likely find it here. www.plumneworleans.com.

1914 Magazine St., 504.897.3388. Map 1, D4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 ROCKET FIZZ Candy connoisseurs get their fill

at this oh-so-sweet shop, packed with nostalgic sweets and novelty treats. A large selection of British and Asian imports is offered, along with hundreds of sodas in fun flavors. www.rocketfizz. com. 831 Decatur St., 504.566.7500. Map 3, H5 SANTA’S QUARTERS Need a little Christmas right

this very minute? Load up the sleigh at this holidaythemed shop—the South’s largest—selling nativity sets, specialty lights and locally crafted ornaments year-round. www.santasquartersno.com. 1025 Decatur St., 504.581.5820. Map 3, H5 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits AUNT SALLY’S PRALINE SHOP Chances are you’ll

catch the sweet scent of Aunt Sally’s clear down the block. Created from Louisiana cane sugar and pecans, pralines are made fresh daily in the store’s kitchen. The shelves are also stocked with Crescent City souvenir items. www.auntsallys.com. 810 Decatur St., 504.524.3373. Map 3, H5; 750 St. Charles Ave., 504.522.4456. Map 3, B5 BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS Crescent City

confectioner Cheryl Scripter has built a loyal following with her incredible truffle collections. Her Warehouse District location also offers fresh morning pastries, coffees and teas, along with delicious cakes, cookies, dipped fruits, toffees and handmade nonparelis. www.bittersweetconfections. com. 725 Magazine St., 504.523.2626. Map 3, C6 KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.891.1026. Map 1, D4 LAURA’S CANDIES Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 MARTIN WINE CELLAR Wine Spectator has recog-

nized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4; 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504.896.7300. Map 1, C2 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4 SIMONE’S MARKETA small, independent grocery

devoted to thoughtfully selected local and regional products. Prepared foods are also available, along with daily deli specials. www.simonesmarket.com.

8201 Oak St., 504.273.7706. Map 3, C3 SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERSYou can catch a sugar

buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). www.southerncandymakers. com. 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2 WINE INSTITUTE NEW ORLEANS In addition to

recreational wine classes, professional certification courses and private tasting sessions, this shop/ school offers fine vintages for sale, along with a tasting room featuring 120 wines for sampling. www.winoschool.com. 610 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.8000. Map 3, D6

Hats & Accessories BELLA UMBRELLA Cloudy skies? This shop helps

you keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrella. www.bellaumbrella.com.

2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4 FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including

SHOPPING

Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line mens grooming products. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 AVERY FINE PERFUMERY This artisanal fragrance

”smell gallery” is one of only 18 in the world and the Italian-based InterTrade Europe group’s sole stand-alone, stateside location. Hard-to-find niche brands such as Blood Concept and Boadicea are featured. www.averyfineperfumeries.com. 527 St. Joseph St., 504.522.7102. Map 3, B6 BELLADONNA DAY SPA Attempting to cover the

entire six-mile stretch of Magazine Street can run even the most ardent shopper ragged. Thankfully, Belladonna sits at the halfway point, providing rejuvenation before heading back out on the hunt. www.belladonnadayspa.com. 2900 Magazine St., 504.891.4393. Map 1, D4

FREE LIFETIME ALTERATIONS • YEAR ROUND SERVICE

FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

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décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 THE REMEDY ROOM Overindulged? This innovative

clinic helps visitors rebound from travel sickness, hangovers and overeating through rehydration therapy, using vitamins, minerals and antioxidants.

Reservations required. www.theremedyroom.com.

1224 St. Charles Ave., 504.301.1670. Map 3, A6 SEPHORA The local branch of the nation’s leading

cosmetics and perfume retailer offers more than 13,000 products from 200-plus brands, all of which can be tested on site. www.sephora.com. 414 N. Peters St., 504.561.9889. Map 3, F5; Lakeside w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 37

THE GUIDE

Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.830.4567. Map 1, C2 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7; 140 Carondelet St. Map 3, D3 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City branch

of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments —reflexology, volcanic stone massages and seaweed wraps— along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www.neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 COUTELIER Form and function combine at this

Riverbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are knifesharpening services, cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks.com. 8239 Oak St., 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 ECLECTIC HOME “Good design knows no period”

is the motto at the chic home boutique, where rustic chandeliers pair with luxe leather sofas, and burlap-upholstered chairs complement spunaluminum tables. www.eclectichome.net. 8211 Oak St., 504.866.6654. Map 1, C3 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 JEANNE BAROUSSE HOME Along with consulting

services, interior designer Barousse offers chic home accents at her Garden District décor shop. www.jeannebaroussedesigns.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.897.5428. Map 1, D4 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

LUM Looking for an authentic elk-hoof lamp or a

pair fashioned from antique wooden wallpaper rolls? You’ll find them at this vintage lighting store, along with everything from rare 1920s Japanese pewter lamps to oh-so-’70s cork-and-chrome models. www.shoplum.com. 3806 Magazine St., 504.897.5428. Map 1, D4 NADINE BLAKE Interiors maven Blake is redefining

the idea of French Quarter chic at her sleek décor boutique. Home furnishings and accessories with a contemporary twist are featured, along with creative gift items. www.nadineblake.com 1036 Royal St., 504.529.4913. Map 3, H4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com.

519 Wilkinson St., 504.516.2601. Map 3, G4; 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 RICCA ARCHITECTURAL SALES Accessible via the

Canal streetcar line, this Mid-City warehouse is packed with retro Southern splendor rescued from demolished buildings. Hard-to-find antique hardware, ornate mantles, stained-glass windows and an endless selection of doors merely hint at the offerings. www.riccasarchitecturalsales.com. 511 N. Solomon St., 504.488.5524. Map 1, D2 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 SHAUN SMITH HOME “Simplicity is at the core of

my aesthetic sense,” says designer Shaun Smith, whose chic home boutique is a study in the art of blending styles and periods. Vamped-up vintage furnishings meld seamlessly with modern designs. Select art and accessories is also featured. www.shaunsmithhome.com. 3947 Magazine St., 504.896.1020. Map 1, D4 SPRUCE Does your space need a spruce up? Start

by stopping in at this eco-conscious interiors studio. Funky fabrics, one-of-a-kind wallpaper and design consultation services are offered. www.sprucenola.com. 2043 Magazine St., 504.265.0946. Map 1, D4 WEST ELMThis local branch of the mid-century

minded home furnishings store is indicative of the new New Orleans and Magazine Street’s increasingly modernist movement. Handcrafted goods from around the globe are coupled with items crafted by local artisans. www.westelm.com. 2929 Magazine St., 504.895.2469. Map 1, D4

Jewelry ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich cre-

ates handmade jewelry on site at this small space in the Rink shopping center. New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, streetcars) and bits of nature (leaf and bone imprints) are featured in her designs and works by national crafters. www.adornandconquer. com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.702.8036. Map 1, D4 ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4

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oliday Home Tour - Sunday, December 17. Savor the holiday spirit and tour French Quarter residences dressed for the season. The Patio Planters tour includes interesting architectural styles and home furnishings, as well as a variety of Christmas decorations. A fundraiser for and prelude to Caroling in Jackson Square later in the evening. Homes open 1-4 p.m.

Tickets: $20 (children under 12 free) at Creole Delicacies, 533 St. Ann Street (at Jackson Square), and at French Quarter Gem & Lapidary, 527 St. Philip Street (near Decatur).

Tickets can be purchased at patioplanters.net.

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aroling in Jackson Square Sunday, December 17, 7 p.m. (gates open at 6:30) Sponsored by The Patio Planters of the Vieux Carre since 1946, Caroling in Jackson Square is a truly moving holiday tradition held every year by candlelight on the Sunday before Christmas.

Free and open to the public. Candles and songsheets provided.

For more information, to become a member, sign up for a newsletter, or to make a 501(c)(3) donation, please visit www.patioplanters.org

SHOPPING

BIJOU NOLA A small shop big on handcrafted

designs by local and international artists. Designs accented with gemstones in 14-kt. gold, sterling silver, stainless steel and titanium are featured. www.bijounola.com. 635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001. Map 3, G4

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Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

• Clocks • Puzzles • Office

Toys • Boxes • Games •

Gizmos • Gadgets • Gifts of Wood

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Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs de lis are prominent, with more than 75 different designs featured. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4

Papier Plume

KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4

842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-

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FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St.

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nered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 PORTER LYONSJewelry designer Ashley Lyons is

a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-andmortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5 WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely

devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and art deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, along with new designer lines. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

Malls/Major Retailers GULFPORT PREMIUM OUTLETS It may be an hour’s

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drive, but a day trip to this popular outlet mall is well worth the investment for bargain hunters. The sprawling complex offers deep savings at more than 70 leading retailers (from Ann Taylor and J. Crew to Coach and Nike), along with a food court to keep shoppers fueled and on the go. www. premiumoutlets.com. 10000 Factory Shops Blvd., Gulfport, Miss., 228.867.6100.

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses

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THE GUIDE

more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

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along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within walking distance of the CBD and French Quarter. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Up to 50% OFF!

Shoes DONALD J. PLINER This Canal Place retailer is

devoted to shoes, handbags and accessories from designer Donald J. Pliner. www.donaldjpliner.com.

333 Canal St., 504.522.1720. Map 3, E5 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.

SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services

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ELECTRIC LADYLAND Looking for a lasting

souvenir? This popular tattoo parlor draws locals, tourists, and visiting celebrities with its award-winning artists and large selection of designs. Custom creations and body piercing are also offered. www. electricladylandtatoo.com. 610 Frenchmen St., 504.947.8286. Map 3, J5 FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In addition

to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. www. frenchquarterpostal.com. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4

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PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE

(LEFT) ©TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY; (CENTER) ©SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY; (RIGHT) ©ANTIEAU GALLERY

Galleries+Antiques

Four to Explore

The Eyes Have It

During December galleries and boutiques along Magazine Street extend hours as part of the month-long Merriment on Magazine retail celebration. While loading up the sleigh, check out Terrance Osborne Gallery (p. 46, shown left), which the Jazzfest fave, famed for his architectural renderings, opened in early 2017. Francophiles will find what they’re after amid the fine furnishings at Wirthmore Antiques (p. 46), while wildlife lovers will be drawn to the intricate animal sketches at Alex Beard Studio (p. 46). Further down Magazine is the mad, mad, mad, mad world of Sarah Ashley Longshore (p. 46), who is as colorful as her pop art paintings of Lil Wayne and Audrey Hepburn (above, center).

Genius. It’s a word often associated with textile artist Chris Roberts-Antieau (p. 41), whose new Genius Eyes series focuses on the pupils of notable public figures. From inventors (Einstein) and authors (Harper Lee) to musicians (Prince) and sports greats (Muhammad Ali), the small, embroidered works offer a peek into Antieau’s own brilliance.

Central Business/ Warehouse District ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary

is the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. www. martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASSWORKS AND PRINTMAKING STUDIO This working artists’

There’s a lot more going studio features free demonstrations for sale. Artists represented here include on this month. by local master crafters in blown glass, Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, HerVisit us online: man Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among printmaking and fine silver. Designs wheretraveler.com others. www.agallery.com. 241 Chartres made in the studio are on display— St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 and for sale—in the front showroom.

How-to classes are also offered. www.

ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French neworleansglassworks.com. 727 Magazine St., Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries.

504.529.7277. Map 3, C6 Sculptors and painters represented include Peter OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow spotlights local and international artists workNash, Aaron Reichert, Steve Taylor, Charles Thysell ing in a wide range of media, including paintand Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery. ings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-AntiLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 the American Visionary Art Museum and her New SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculpOrleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric ture and photography by nationally recognized pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted as well as emerging contemporary artists is the frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ pre-

eminent exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www. stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo.

ARTISTS HAVE BEEN GATHERING around Jackson Square’s iron fence for more than half a century, making it the city’s oldest—and largest—art gallery. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 41

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 41

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 41 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................46 Collectives.....................................................................................................46 Other Locations.......................................................................................46

com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here.

Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and 42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

THE GUIDE

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4

FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JAMIE HAYES GALLERY The colorful works of

artist and children’s book author Hayes have been said to capture “the true spirit of New Orleans,” and acquired by such famous collectors as Robin Williams, k.d. lang and Muhammad Ali. Original paintings, prints and fun gift items are featured. www.jamiehayes.com. 617 & 621 Chartres St., 504.592.4080 ; 504.596.2344. Map 3, G4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals

in international oil paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4

44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

623 royAL street

French quArter

new orLeAns

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

“Home,” Embroidery & Fabric Appliqué

Antieau Gallery • New Orleans THE WORK OF CHRIS ROBERTS-ANTIEAU 927 ROYAL ST, NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 (504) 304-0849 • www.antieaugallery.com

OPEN DAILY 10AM - 8PM

THE GUIDE

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. www.neworleanssilversmiths. com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. Originals, giclées and prints are offered, along with live-painting event services. www.artgallerynola.com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine

works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by ToulouseLautrec. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 FRENCHY GALLERY Art of the moment takes on

new meaning in the hands of Randy Leo Frechette, who captures moments on canvas as they unfold.

From music fests to sporting events to Carnival parades, you’ll find the real-time artist fast at work among the crowds. www.frenchylive.com. 8319 Oak St., 504.861.7595. Map 1, C3 NEW ORLEANS PHOTO ALLIANCE GALLERY This

photography collective strives to stimulate “artistic growth while preserving the rich and diverse photographic culture of New Orleans and the southern region” through rotating monthly exhibits. www. neworleansphotoalliance.org. 1111 St. Mary St., 504.513.8030. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4

46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. www.galleryosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O This innovative de-

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of designers. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2113. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Collectors delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works by dozens of regional artists.

Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. 2028 Magazine St., 504.523.7945. Map 1, D4

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net.

3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKETThis after-dark art mart

takes place in a converted auto body shop (aka the Art Garage). From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps to folk art and photography, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares, Th-Sa, 8 pm-1 am. www.frenchmenartmarket.com. 2231 St. Claude Ave., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5 ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8

Here today.

where tomorrow. ®

Before you travel, go to wheretraveler.com and see where to shop, dine and play once you arrive.

wheretraveler.com Info only locals know.

THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Y’all Come On In

5, 4, 3, 2, 1…

’Tis the season to go a-visitn’. Scope out Uptown homes Dec. 9-10 during the 42nd annual Preservation Resource Center’s Holiday Home Tour (prcno.org), which offers entry into seven Garden District properties as well the circa-1876 Jackson Avenue Evangelical Congregation Church. Step into the historic Hermann-Grima and Gallier houses (p. 55), decked in 19th-century “holiday dress,” and revisit yules of yore throughout the month.

Christmas present is on display Dec. 17 during the Patio Planter’s Holiday Home Tour (patioplanters.net) of modern-day French Quarter residences. The self-guided excursion is the perfect prelude to Caroling in Jackson Square, which takes place later that evening.

Where to best watch the ball drop? Times Square. New Year’s Eve in New Orleans is all about the six-foot fleur de lis atop JAX Brewery at Jackson Square. The countdown celebration kicks off at 9 pm with free live music and culminates at midnight with fireworks over the Mississippi. Cheers to 2018!

Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

(RIGHT) ©PRESERVATION RESOURCE CENTER; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM Located in the circa-1860 U.S. Custom

House, this ranks as the nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

space plays host to free fan fests during 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year.

Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. wheretraveler.com $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 www.champions-square.com. 1500 Poydras ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2 St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open Tu-F, CINEBARRE CANAL PLACE 9 This state-of-the10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su, 10 am-5 pm. www.audubonart movie theater offers nine separate screens, institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or along with in-seat dining from its in-house café and 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 bar. www.thetheatres.com. The Shops at Canal CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 the dead” act as windows on the past, offering inCITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush sight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; larger even than New York’s Central Park. www.

Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 of her works there. Many are located in high-crime CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or day or night. climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEM streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront ETERYJust down the river from where Andrew promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears to the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers his name is the battlefield where he fought the last jogging and biking paths, a dog run and picturebattle of the War of 1812. History buffs can check perfect picnic areas. www.crescentparknola. out the visitor center, listen to daily ranger talks, org. Map 3, J6 explore Chalmette National Cemetery or relax ENTERGY GIANT SCREEN THEATER Eye-popping under the park’s live oaks. https://www.nps.gov/ features are shown on a five-and-a-half-story jela/chalmette-battlefield.htm. 8606 W St Bernard screen. Tickets included with Audubon Aquarium Hwy., 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3 admission. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. www.

CHAMPIONS SQUAREThis open-air venue, adjaauduboninstitute.org. Audubon Aquarium of the cent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts Americas, 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 45,000 sq. ft. and state-of-the-art technology. The

BABY NEW YEAR, who reigned over Jackson Square New Year’s Eve festivities from 2000 to 2015, can now be found at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 47

HOUMAS HOUSE Plantation and Gardens This holiday season is the perfect time to visit Houmas House Plantation and Gardens. Take a spectacular tour of the original plantation house built in the 1770s, decorated with Christmas cheer. Stroll through 16 acres of breathtaking gardens. Find the perfect presents for loved ones at the gift shop and dine at Houmas House’s exquisite restaurants.

You can also stay overnight in a luxurious room at The Inn at Houmas House. Plan your memorable trip today!

Transportation provided by Old South Tours. Daily pick up from your hotel at 10:30 am. Reserve your seat by calling 504-488-1177.

Or take your car and arrive between 9 am and 7 pm.

Houmas House Plantation and Gardens 40136 Hwy 942 • Darrow, LA 70725 • 225-473-9380 • www.HoumasHouse.com

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 69-71.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................47

OPEN

Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................52 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 55 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 56 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 56

ESCAPE MY ROOMThe concept of this live, interac-

tive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an hour and you and your teammates “escape” the mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and fun) than that. A great activity for families and group team-building. Reservations required. www.escapemyroom.com. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Pl., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 FULTON ALLEY Putting a fresh spin on the old

bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor, craft cocktails and big-flavored small plates. Not a bowler? Both the bar and restaurant are accessible separately from the alley. www.fultonalley.com.

600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569. Map 3, D6 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleans-themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table gamest and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

Unlock History. hgghh.org | 504.274.0746

THE GUIDE

shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.588.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral. org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 PONTALBA BUILDINGS Erected in 1851, the stately

red-brick townhouses flanking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States.

Inspired by the Palais-Royal and the Place des Vosges in Paris, the twin buildings feature apartments upstairs, retail spaces below and ornate cast-iron galleries. Map 3, G5 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 am - 4 pm by Admission

THE GUIDE

CAJUN ENCOUNTERS Daily tours for both large

and small groups are offered, along with hotel pickups and drop-offs. Call for times, prices and reservations. Honey Island Swamp Tour –2 hrs. City Cemeteries Tour –2 hrs. Oak Alley & Laura Plantation Tour –4 hrs. www.cajunencounters.com. 55345 Hwy. 90, Slidell, 504.834.1770. Map 2, G1 CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to 3 hours; rates vary. www. celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SEGWAY TOURS Why walk when you can

glide? Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. Private excursions are also available. www.citysegwaytours.com. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered, along with customized bike tours. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 DESTINATION KITCHENThese deliciously fun tours

provide a real taste of New Orleans. A variety of culinary and cocktail excursions are offered, along with French Quarter and Garden District walking tours. Custom outings are also available. www. destination-kitchen.com. 885.353.6634.

DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280.

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$22. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 FRENCH QUARTOUR KIDS These hour-and-a-half

guided walks take children on a journey back in time through the streets of the historic Vieux Carré.

Tours offered Sa-Su, 10 am, 11:30 am, 2 pm, and by appointment. Call for reservations and locations. www.frenchquartourkids.com. 504.975.5355.

54 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs.

Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.

Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs.

Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 pm and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm and 7:30 pm) from

Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

NEW ORLEANS BREWS CRUISE Get a taste of the

local craft-beer scene with a tour of area breweries.

Learn about the brewing process while sampling three to five varieties at each stop. City breweries are spotlighted Fri.-Sat. at 6 pm and Sun. at 2 pm; Northshore brewery tours are also offered.

Great for groups or corporate outings; private and customized excursions are also available. www. neworleansbrewscruise.com. 504.517.4671.

SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under.

Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

Museums & Exhibits BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs and second-line parades.

Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Admission $10; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. www.backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 BEAUREGARDKEYES HOUSE This beautifully

restored 1826 villa and garden was the home of Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $9 seniors/students, $4 ages 6-12, under 6 free. www.bkhouse.org. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $10; $8 seniors/ students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas lived

during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works. Two-hour tours of the 1852 property, conducted by the artist’s great-grand-niece, are offered daily at 10:15 am and 1:30 pm, and by appointment. $15. Reservations required. www.degashouse.com. 2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, I4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, F4

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS Designated

a National Historic Landmark, this 1939 Classical Revival home is modeled after an English country estate, with eight acres of gardens to explore. Guided tours available daily. $12 adults, $10 seniors/military, $8 students/children, 2 and under free. Open W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm. www.longuevue.com. 7 Bamboo Rd., 504.488.5488. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Children learn

through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans” and “New Orleans: Proud to Call It Home.” Adults/children $8.50. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-5 pm; Su, noon-4:30 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 Julia St., 504.586.0725. Map 3, C6 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo, Map 3, G4)–Used as a military prison

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THE GUIDE

during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History. 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St., Map 3, G5)– Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St., Map 3, G5)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave., Map 3, I5)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint.

Presbytère (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–Continuing: Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana and Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond. For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $26 adults, $22.50 seniors, $16.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries”: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings.

The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm; free. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org.

514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free).

Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 PRESERVATION RESOURCE CENTER The PRC is

an essential stop for lovers of local architecture, and contains a wealth of information on the city’s buildings and neighborhoods. Open M-F, 9 am-5 pm. www.prcno.org. 923 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.7032. Map 3, B7 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10.50; students/ seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 56 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

11 am-5:30 pm. www.southernfood.org. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3 WILLIAMS RESEARCH CENTER The research arm

of the Historic New Orleans Collection houses a sparkling repository of documents as well as rotating exhibits and a knowledgeable, friendly staff. Free. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. www.hnoc.org. 410 Chartres St., 504.598.7171. Map 3, F4

Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only

brewpub. Microbrews, nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-plus

bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from rilled octopus to caviar and potato chips. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play

(the author once stayed here), this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1452. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a massive

tap room and in-house barbecue make this a muststop for beer fans. www.nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 PATRICK’S BAR VIN Krewe of Cork founder and all-

around grape guy Patrick Van Hoorebeek’s namesake wine bar offers dozens of vintages by the glass and even more by the bottle. www.patricksbarvin. com. 730 Bienville St., 504.581.7300. Map 3, F4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 RICK’S SPORTING SALOON The traditional sports

bar gets kicked up several notches at this Bourbon

Street hot spot, which scores extra points with its handsome decor and gorgeous entertainers. The club features 10 high-definition TVs, along with 10 beers on draft, each kept at a cool 32 degrees. iknowrick.com. 522 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 WALKON’S Fittingly within walking distance of

the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. Looking for a rowdy atmosphere with selfserve taps in which to watch the game? You’ve found it. www.walk-ons.com. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. Steamy windows face the nightlife bustle of Frenchmen Street, and the benches outside make ideal perches for people-watching. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the

Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 504.304.4714. Map 1, D3 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant es-

cape inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 HOWLIN’ WOLF This club features low cover

charges and low attitude. Acts include both local favorites and big names; the music ranges from punk to straight-ahead rock. www.thehowlinwolf. com. 907 S. Peters St., 504.522.9653. Map 3, C7 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4

10AM UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

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LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz

landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene.

The recently renovated supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3

Enjoy noon an after ur o drink on patio!

We have DIRECTV NFL Sunday Ticket Riverside Dining SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER Across from Harrah’s Casino next to Hilton Hotel

ONE EYED JACKS Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-

burlesque: this French Quarter swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. www.oneeyedjacks.net. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4 PALM COURT JAZZ CAFÉ This excellent venue

for traditional live jazz is a favorite of locals in the know and well-informed visitors. Creole dining is also featured. www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com. 1204 Decatur St., 504.525.0200. Map 3, I5 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

21 47" LG LCD T.V.’s Gourmet Burgers, Wings, Gourmet Pizzas, Salads & Po-Boys Serving breakfast daily • Weekend Brunch

504-247-9265 • www.poppystimeoutsportsbar.com

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS One of downtown’s

hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. www.republicnola.com. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6 ROCK ’N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in

a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. www.republicnola.com. 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700. Map 1, D3 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of

Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

GIVING TREE

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYSThis hip venue in the über-hip Ace

Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable

738 Royal Street | French Quarter | 504.475.5906 SHOP ONLINE www.TheGivingTreeGallery.com

nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic,

always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 57

THE GUIDE

Navigate Give It a Spin

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2018.

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©ST. TAMMANY PARISH TOURISM COMMISSION

With more than 100 miles of designated paths (including the Lafitte Greenway, which runs from the French Quarter to Mid-City), New Orleans ranks among the top cities in the U.S. for urban biking. More a nature lover than city cyclist? Grab a twowheel rental and explore the Tammany Trace just across Lake Pontchartrain, which spans 31 miles through five Northshore (p.

59) communities, connecting Covington, Abita Springs, Mandeville, Lacombe and Slidell. Recently inducted into the national Rail-Trail Hall of Fame, the paved hike and bike path follows the now-defunct Illinois Central Railroad corridor, winding through piney woods and marshy bayous. The Trace offers plenty of shade, 31 bridges, covered pavilions, restroom access and close encounters with local wildlife. For maps, suggested stops and bicycle rental info, visit tammanytrace.org.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index General Information........................................................................... 58 Nearby Destinations............................................................................59 Cajun Country...........................................................................................59 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 59 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 59 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................59 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................59 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 59 Transportation ....................................................................................... 58

CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map

by Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include actor Brad Pitt’s Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts.

Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of

the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. www.houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

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3 2 1

THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Rethinking River Road In 1971 the newly formed River Road Historical Society set out to restore longneglected Destrehan Plantation, turning a crumbling eyesore into a shining example of civic pride, and jumpstarting a new era of reconstruction along the historic highway. Nearly a half century later, Destrehan is once again part of a River Road revival, joining other area plantations, such as Laura and Whitney, in embracing the once-unspoken subject of slavery. At one time counting more than 200 enslaved workers, Destrehan was the site of an 1811 tribunal to determine punishment in the largest slave revolt in American history. But it also served as a home colony for the Freeman’s Bureau, housing more than 700 newly freed slaves by 1866. Think there’s nothing new to learn in old plantation country? Think again.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION , decked out with fresh fruit and live garland, celebrates the holiday season with its 42nd annual Christmas Bonfire Party Dec. 2.

66 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

©DESTREHAN PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 66 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 66 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 67 Dining........................................................................................................... 68

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 67

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 68 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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70 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 2 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St RH Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses

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K w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 71

[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Music Lovers

Luxury Seekers

History Buffs

A little live music with your mimosa and eggs Benedict? The concept of the weekend jazz brunch originated at (1) Commander’s Palace, where it’s been perfected to an edible art form. Tucked amid the bars along lower Bourbon Street, (2) New Orleans Musical Legends Park pays homage to a variety of Grammy greats and NOLA notables. Snap a few selfies with bronze depictions of Allen Toussaint, Fats Domino and others while listening to free live jazz. With few seats, no air conditioning and no booze, you wouldn’t think folks would be lining up to get in (3) Preservation Hall. But they do and have since 1961. The music is worth the wait; traditional New Orleans jazz at its very best.

Breakfast at (1) Brennan’s is a must-do and best experienced as a leisurely, multicourse affair … with cocktails. Start with a brandy milk punch (hey, the term “eye-opener’ was coined here) before diving into egg yolk carpaccio, turtle soup and pecan-crusted redfish. It seems only fitting that a city so obsessed with food would be home to the first culinary antiques store. (2) Lucullus rewards epicurean collectors with gastronomic treasures from the 17th through 20th centuries. Even the window displays are good enough to eat. How to cap off a luxurious day? With a bit of bubbly at (3) Patrick’s Bar Vin. Don’t let this elegant wine bar’s steps-from-Bourbon location fool you; the sophisticated spot oozes class and charm.

Predating the city itself, the (1) French Market is the oldest public market in the U.S. Recently revamped, the open-air venue retains its historic ambience while offering a number of new food stalls, in addition to fresh produce, souvenirs and other items. The crumbling walls at the (2) Napoleon House hint at its early age. A warm muffuletta and an icy Pimm’s Cup make for a picture-perfect NOLA moment. The Sazerac, “the Official Cocktail of New Orleans,” was first poured in the French Quarter in 1838. It has since become synonymous with the Roosevelt Hotel, home to the (3) Sazerac Bar since the 1930s.

Raise a toast to history while checking out the WPA-era murals that adorn the walls.

72 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2017

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©COMMANDER'S PALACE; ©SHAWN FINK; ©PRESERVATION HALL; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©BRENNAN'S; ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©NAPOLEON HOUSE; ©ROOSEVELT HOTEL

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