Where Magazine New Orleans Aug 2018

GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS

EXPLORE

PLEIN AIR ART STROLLS

DINE

A CEVICHE SAMPLER

PLAY

SATCHMO SUMMERFEST

CHILLAX 7 Ways to Keep Your Cool

300

N O L A

AUGUST 2018

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the plan

the guide 18

9 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Janet Wellman Concierge at the Hotel Mazarin.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus ceviche weather and puppy plates.

10 Editor’s Note Revisiting 50 years of Where New Orleans.

XX 26 SHOPPING

12 Hot Dates

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus a parade of new NOLA-themed books and “a petit Paris market.”

Satchmo SummerFest All things Louis Armstrong, the Red Dress Run, Saints preseason home games and 24 other ideas to add to your list.

15

XX

32

GALLERIES + ANTIQUES

A citywide gallery crawl.

Plus White, Dirty and Filthy Linen Nights.

36

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus escape rooms and gondola glides.

56 New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for first-time visitors, romantics and history fans.

ON THE COVER

XX

44

Rose, a way-cool

GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS

16

EXPLORE

PLEIN AIR ART STROLLS

DINE

A CEVICHE SAMPLER

PLAY

SATCHMO SUMMERFEST

way to squelch

CHILLAX 7 Ways to Keep Your Cool

summer's swelter.

300

N O L A

©RANDY SCHMIDT

AUGUST 2018

wheretraveler.com E~NO-WM_180800_01_Cover.indd 2

7/9/18 1:41 PM

NAVIGATE

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus Blue Bike-sharing.

The Fluff-A-Nutter Sundae at Jack

ENTERTAINMENT

where now

XX

50

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus plantations’ starring roles.

14 Out + About

Cool ways to beat the August heat, from museum must-sees and guided beer tours to deep dining savings and the deep end of the pool.

CONNECT WITH US

16 Food + Drink

Drink up and cool down, hot restaurant dish and Key Lime Coconut Crunch cake.

17 Local Flavor READ US ON MAGZTER

25 things we love about New Orleans.

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2 01 8

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z pages 53-55

(LEFT) ©LIONEL MILTON/FQFI; (CENTER, TOP) ©LE MERIDIEN HOTEL; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©TGATEAUMEDICINE

XX

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Janet Wellman Concierge at the Hotel Mazarin Q: What’s the secret to surviving summer in New Orleans?

A: Dress in cool clothes, find a nice patio with cool drinks, like the Napoleon House (p. 21), and perhaps visit a hotel swimming pool. If yours doesn’t have one, many—such as the Ace Hotel or the Maison Dupuy—will welcome you.

Q: The Satchmo SummerFest takes place this month. Where would you send guests for modern-day jazz?

A: Definitely to the Spotted Cat (p. 42). I also love the Davenport Lounge (p. 42) and, of course, the Mazarin’s wonderful 21st Amendment bar.

Q: August also brings COOLinary bargain menus. Any suggestions?

A: I’d say go for restaurants that are normally more expensive, and take advantage of the COOLinary menu. I’d recommend GW Fins (p. 20), which is a favorite of mine; K-Paul’s (p.

21), for a true taste of Cajun in the city; and Bayona (p. 19), which is one of my go-tos for a romantic evening out.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©ZACK SMITH/NEWORLEANS.COM

Q: What tour do you most recommend?

A: A city overview tour. People who stay in the French Quarter often tend to think this is it, so I like to send them to different areas that are interesting. It gives them a better feel for the city as a whole.

Q: What do you love most about New Orleans?

A: The festivals, the food and—having been born and raised here—family.

The Spotted Cat

9

EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY

A LOOK BACK

Where We Were This year marks Where New Orleans’ 50th anniversary. To commemoBeetlejuiced rate the mid-century milestone, we opened our archives, dusted off back issues and throughout 2018 will be revisiting years past. This month we set the wayback machine to 2008.

The 73rd annual Sugar Bowl kicked things off, followed by the BCS Championship playoff and the NBA All-Star Game, for which Where went one-on-one with then-rising star of the then-named New Orleans Hornets, Chris Paul. Don Shula’s Steak House fed sports fan hunger at the JW Marriott, while celebrity chef Todd English rolled the restaurant dice at Harrah's Hotel with Riche, which would soon be trumped by Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse.

Trump Tower had big plans for Poydras Street (that never materialized), the St. Charles streetcar got back on track post-Katrina and the Audubon Insectarium opened on Canal Street.

We checked in with “Blue Dog” artist George Rodrigue, along with legendary pop artist Peter Max (who created our November cover in celebration of the inaugural Prospect.1 contemporary art biennial) and checked out “Napoleon’s Treasures” at the Old U.S. Mint.

Wine bars and absinthe collectibles were all the rage, neo-burlesque was shaking things up at the Royal Sonesta Hotel, Paste magazine named the Louisiana Music Factory among the “17 Coolest Record Stores in America” and wheretraveler.com debuted, offering on-theground, on-the-go travel info for 40-plus cities. ®

THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO

NEW ORLEANS A UGU S T 2 0 0 8

// W W W.W H E R E T R AV E L E R . C O M

A bug-eyed tour of the Audubon Insectarium

SATCHMO SUMMERFEST

SOUTHERN DECADENCE

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Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

WHERE CALENDAR AUGUST

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HOT

TOP STOPS 21 additional ideas worth entertaining.

CHAMPIONS SQUARE Aug. 11: The Cult with Stone Temple Pilots and Bush; Aug. 22: Evanescence and Lindsey Sterling; Aug 25: Lil’ WeezyAna Fest. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

DATES

CIVIC THEATRE Aug. 19: Gillian Welch. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865 HOUSE OF BLUES Aug. 3: Lyfe Jennings; Aug. 4: Bustout Burlesque; Aug 18: Tab Benoit; Aug. 29: Residente. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583

Satchmo SummerFest

His actual birth date may be debatable, but there’s no disputing Louis Armstrong’s musical legacy and lasting impact on New Orleans. Now in its 18th year, this celebration of all things Armstrong sounds off Aug. 2 with an evening of music by John Bouttè at the Omni Royal Orleans, where artist Lionel Milton’s depiction of a young Louis (featured on this year’s poster, shown above) will be up for auction. But the big to-do takes place Aug. 3-5 in and around the Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave.), where Irma Thomas, the Grammy-winning “Soul Queen of New Orleans,” headlines close to 40 acts performing on dueling stages. satchmosummerfest.org Red Dress Run

caption here

5

Great Things Not to Be Missed

1 RED DRESS RUN > AUG. 11 On your mark, get set—throw on something scarlet and hit the streets! This two-mile, boozefueled free-for-all begins at 11 am at Crescent Park, with stragglers going way into night. Elysian Fields Ave. and N. Peters St.; nolareddress.com

NEW ORLEANS SAINTS > AUG. 17 & 30 The Black and Gold kicks off its preseason lineup taking on the Arizona Cardinals, before tackling the Los Angeles Rams at month’s end.

Both games take place at 7 pm, preceded by a free fan fest at Champions Square at 4 pm.

Mercedes-Benz Superdome, 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

3 TONY BENNETT > AUG. 25 Lady Gaga, k.d. lang and countless others have performed duets with the 19-time Grammy great. Catch the living legend at the Saenger Theatre, where he joins voices with daughter Antonia. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

JOURNEY & DEF LEPPARD > AUG. 27 Two mega rock bands come together for one colossal concert at the Smoothie King Center.

1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3822 4

JOY THEATER Aug. 1: Taking Back Sunday; Aug. 2: Brian Posehn; Aug. 24: Jeremih; Aug. 30: Umphrey’s McGee. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569 SAENGER THEATRE Aug. 3: “Bring It" Live!; Aug. 10-11: “MJ Live: Michael Jackson Tribute.” 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Aug. 5: Imagine Dragons; Aug. 14: J. Cole with Young Thug.

1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

2

N.O. Saints

5 SOUTHERN DECADENCE > AUG. 30 SEPT. 3 What began in 1972 with a small group of friends has morphed into one of the largest gay gatherings in the South. The nonstop party spills out of the clubs and onto the streets. southerndecadence.net; togetherwenola.com

For a full calendar of events, go to wheretraveler.com/new-orleans/local-events 12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

TIPITINA’S Aug. 3: IKO Allstars; Aug. 10: Johnny Sketch & the Dirty Notes; Aug. 17: Billy Iuso & Restless Natives; Aug. 24: Naughty Professor; Aug. 31: John “Papa” Gros. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477

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The city’s top attractions, entertainment, dining and more OUT+ABOUT

It’s Too Darn Hot Where to chill when the mercury soars

“Constructing the Break”

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Come on, it’s August in New Orleans; what did you expect? A quick Google search shows the average local temperature for the month to hover around the mid 90s … with the occasional spike here and there. It only feels like it’s 108 degrees. Sure, you could hole up all day in a dark-lit Bourbon Street bar—as many do—but there are lots of cool alternatives to keep you active and air-conditioned at the same time.

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

from West Coast beaches—a perfect complement to the aquarium’s Aug. 16 Summer of Sustainability seafood dinner spotlighting leading local chefs.

(TOP) W HOTEL; (CENTER) THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE; (BOTTOM, LEFT) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY/PALACE CAFÉ, (BOTTOM, RIGHT) ©AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; (OPENING PAGE) ©CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

BREWERY TOURS Over the past few years Crescent City craft brewing has seen a substantial upswing, with close to a dozen breweries now in operation. To help visitors tap into the local suds scene, the NOLA Brew Bus (nolabrewbus.com), New Orleans Brews Cruise (p. 39) and New Orleans Brewery Tours (premiumtoursandtransportation. com) have gotten rolling. Though they differ slightly, all offer at least three brewery stops with free samples at each.

CHURCHES

W Hotel

PUBLIC POOLS A dip in the pool always helps to lower body temps. Don’t have one at your hotel? Dive in at The Country Club (p. 24), where a mere $15 provides all-day access. For just a few bucks more, the rooftop pool at the Ace Hotel is all yours, while $20 at the W French Quarter secures a place poolside (Fri.-Sun.), along with two cocktails. Splashy cabana rentals are offered at both the Roosevelt and Le Méridien hotels.

MUSEUMS August is New Orleans Museum Month, making it an ideal time to explore the city’s various cultural institutions; purchase membership to one, and visit other participating venues for free all month. Among the must-sees are Palace Café

degrees = $9.20), and Bayona’s (p.

19) 28th Anniversary Lunch (Wed.Fri.), featuring three courses for $28 … and 28-cent martinis.

THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE

The Shops at Canal Place

“Constructing the Break,” a group exhibit of regional artists at the Contemporary Arts Center (p. 40), “Changing Course: Reflections on New Orleans Histories” at the New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 41, which also offers free film screenings Aug. 11 and 25 at 2 pm) and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art’s (p. 41) annual “Louisiana Contemporary” juried exhibit.

RESTAURANTS August also brings COOLinary menus of prix-fixe specials at area restaurants (coolinaryneworleans. com). Never eaten at Commander’s Palace? Here’s your chance.

Bargain-hungry diners should also check out the Temperature Lunch menu at Palace Café (p. 22), priced at the previous day’s high (92

Remember when the local mall was the summertime go-to? It still is, just kicked way, way up a notch. While away a few hours in the marble-floored Shops at Canal Place (p. 31) trying on workout wear at lululemon, scouting out Saks Fifth Avenue and ogling glittery gewgaws at Tiffany & Co. Then ascend to the third-floor, state-of-the-art movie theater for an old-fashioned Hollywood escape, replete with cocktails.

AUDUBON AQUARIUM Big-screen fans will also want to settle in for a show at the nearby Audubon Aquarium (p. 36), where the Entergy Giant Screen Theater is included in admission. Outside are a number of splash pads to help quell the heat, while inside you’ll discover “Washed Ashore,” an exhibit of fantastical sea creature sculptures created from plastic pollution gathered

The Big Easy’s well-earned reputation as a bastion of debauchery might explain its vast number of places of worship, many of which are also architectural wonders. St. Louis Cathedral (p. 38) is the city’s most visited, but it’s St. Mary’s, adjacent to the Old Ursuline Convent (p. 38), that really wows with its coffered ceiling. Just off Magazine Street, the side-by-side Italianate St. Alphonsus and German Baroque St. Mary’s Assumption compete for over-the-top ornateness, while Immaculate Conception, a Moorish-inspired structure built by Jesuits across from the Roosevelt Hotel, melds Christian, Jewish and Islamic influences and features wrought-iron pews. Now, how cool is that?

Audubon Aquarium

WHERE NOW New

Orleans Coffee

FOOD+DRINK

Basic iced coffee is a good thing, for sure, but there’s better than basic; call it next-level iced coffee. Church Alley (4201 Canal St., 504.304.6306) combines orange-blossom water, espresso and fizzy water for a refreshing Lebanese Coffee. Love the taste of chocolate-covered oranges? Coast Roast in St. Roch Market (p. 24) mixes espresso, orange juice and a touch of vanilla syrup for its Bumble Bee, a surprising candy taste-alike. The iced coffee drinks at Spitfire (p. 23) are wild. Try the Tres Flores (espresso, lavender-infused milk, orange-blossom water and rose petals) and the Brown Butter Mocha (nutty browned butter, dark chocolate and coffee).

Tea

Drink It Like It’s Hot Summer sizzles in New Orleans; gratefully, there are plenty of ways to cool down. Finding a place with refreshing drinks and killer air conditioning is a favorite local summer sport, with restaurants and cafés across the city getting delightfully creative with their beverages (non-alcoholic, thank you). Go on, get out there, brave the heat and drink up.

Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed

10 Foot Pizza

10 FOOT PIZZA At this art-filled restaurant and bar, the pizzas are big, crisp and topped lushly, with options ranging from vegan to serious carnivore. The vegetarian Elote is a creamy offthe-cob version of roasted corn with hot sauce, lime and veg, while the Meatzza is packed with pepperoni, salami, alligator sausage, pork jowl and smoked sausage. Be sure to check out the restrooms.

740 N. Rampart St., 504.407.3484

ATCHAFALAYA Start with the extensive Bloody Mary bar at this popular brunch spot, while waiting for your Low Country breakfast of red bean-andrice cake, collard greens, alligator sausage, gumbo gravy and pickled peppers. At dinner begin with Fried Green Tomatoes topped with Louisiana jumbo lump crab and remoulade sauce, followed by the pan-seared chicken. For dessert?

Get the Bleu Cheese Flan; trust us.

901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626 PIECE OF MEAT This industrial-designed butcher shop/restaurant is filled with smoke, meat and love. The cheese-and-boudin egg rolls are a top app pick, but the menu is so loaded with tempting options, choosing is difficult. The divine and tender smoked ribs come with a spicy potato salad, and there’s no getting enough of the smoked chicken salad (on a bun with blueberry barbecue sauce and lettuce); grab a pint from the take-away fridge before you leave.

3301 Bienville St., 504.372.2289 —LG

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

All that walking, sightseeing and shopping is thirst-inducing, and in New Orleans’ steamy heat, hydrating is vital. Check out some local specialty beverages and chill for a bit. —Lorin Gaudin

LAST BITE The Pontchartrain Hotel’s fine-dining temple, Jack Rose (p.

23), has a fun, artsy vibe and a stellar kitchen crew. Pastry chef Erin Swanson’s dessert list is always filled with creative bits of this and that, but the attention-grabbers are her killer cakes.

In flavor combinations at once smart, sexy and sassy, there have been cakes of grapefruit and rose, an homage to the fruit punchy-boozy Hurricane cocktail and, most recently, a summer spectacular: Key Lime Coconut Crunch. Tender crumbed cake layers are spread with colorful, properly sweet-tart icing, kitschy garnishes of sauce, whipped cream, sprinkles, a chewy gummy fruit slice and a crumble for crackle. If Key lime pie, coconut cake and a pennycandy store had a baby, it would be this incredible creation. —LG

(TOP) ©TGATEAUMEDICINE; (CENTER) ©10 FOOT PIZZA; (BOTTOM) ©JACK ROSE

Mac & Moon

Lebanese iced tea is a New Orleans original, seriously. It was first (and best) done at Mona’s (4126 Magazine St., 504.894.9800), though every Middle Eastern restaurant now has a version. At the mother ship, the drink is made in giant batches—lemony powdered iced tea stirred with water, flower water (rose or orange) and sweetener, then topped with a scattering of pine nuts. For something hip, vegan and jaw-droppingly gorgeous, duck into the Auction House Market (p. 18) and make a beeline for Mac & Moon. There you’ll find Frozen Blooming Flower teas (blueberry-basil, gardenia or whatever they’re doing at the moment), bubble teas (jasmine-rose with fruity “bubbles” and fresh fruit) and frozen herbal lemonades. All are the definition of summer splendor.

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LOCAL FLAVOR

25 Things We Love About New Orleans In honor of the city’s tricentennial, each month during 2018 we are highlighting a few of our favorite things (25 x 12 = 300).

Have one of your own? Share it with us at wheretraveler.com, and we’ll consider it for the next issue.

1

The scent of fresh-baked French bread wafting out of Leidenheimer delivery trucks.

tain and other famous performers at New Orleans Musical Legends Park (p. 38).

2 3

14

Sunday Jazz Mass at historic St. Augustine Church (p. 38).

Emeril’s (p. 18) banana cream pie, packed with three pounds of fruit.

(TOP) ©CHRISTIAN HORAN/JACK ROSE; (CENTER, LEFT) ©RED FISH GRILL; (CENTER, RIGHT) ©NAPOLEON HOUSE; (BOTTOM) ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM

Savoring Pimm’s-soaked cucumber rounds at the Napoleon House (p. 21).

15

Seeing the city’s signature copper gas lamps being made by hand at Bevolo Gas & Electric Lights (p. 32).

4

Taking to the streets—despite the heat—on White Linen Night (p. 32).

5

Parading through the upstairs Mardi Gras museum after dinner at Arnaud’s (p. 19).

16 17

The way-out wigs at Fifi Mahony’s (p. 30).

Stepping back in time along River Road on a plantation country day trip (p. 50).

20

6

The Louisiana Shrimp & Petroleum Festival (shrimppetrofest.org); yes, you read that correctly.

18

7

19

8

20

The naughty-but-nice Burlesque Ballroom, Fridays at the Jazz Playhouse (p. 42).

The Krewe of Oak’s annual Midsummer Mardi Gras parade, which kicks off Aug. 25 at 7 pm from the Maple Leaf Bar (p. 42).

Peeking in on the culinary action through Brennan’s (p. 19) kitchen window.

The New Orleans Saints marching back into the Mercedes-Benz Superdome (p. 36).

12

21

Save Our Cemeteries’ (p. 39) monthly Tombs by Twilight

9

Paging through William Faulkner’s “Light in August”— in August—at Faulkner House Books (p. 26).

tour.

22

The All Things NOLA sundae at Salon by Sucré (p.

22)—brown butter-pecan gelato, topped with bananas Foster sauce and chunks of bread pudding.

10

The resurrection of Zombies and Mai Tais at retro-cool Latitude 29 (p. 21), home to Beachbum Berry, the world’s foremost tiki expert.

23

Shucking and jiving at the Bourbon House (p. 19) oyster bar.

11 12

Artist Chris Antieau’s fab “fabric pictures” (p. 32).

24

The backyard vibe and all-day outdoor music at Bacchanal (p. 24).

Crystal-coated barbecued oysters, crowned with blue cheese, at Red Fish Grill (p. 22).

13

Snapping selfies with Fats Domino, Al Hirt, Pete Foun-

3

The portrait of Lil Wayne popping out among the floral paintings at Jack Rose (p. 23).

24

25

The Pedesclaux-Lemonnier House (640 Royal St.), the city’s first “skyscraper.”

17

the guide Ceviche City

Lap It Up

With August’s heat comes lots of cool ceviches around town. Chill out at GW Fins (p. 20) with red snapper mixed with mango, citrus and Fresno chili, or try the chilled salmon carpaccio, dotted with dill, citrus, capers and pickled mustard seeds. At Seaworthy (p.

19) fresh Gulf fish is marinated in an aji amarillo-citrus blend and accented with pickled yams, while at Johnny Sánchez (p. 19, shown) yellowtail is kicked up with a habaneropassion fruit mix, cooled by cucumber, tomato and avocado, and served with a side of plantain chips. Salad fan? Double your pleasure at Del Fuego (p. 25), where crisp romaine is crowned with ceviche of the day, cotija and Caesar dressing.

Road trip with Rover? Grab the leash and wag your way to pet-friendly Flamingo A-Go-Go (p. 18), where you can tuck into tuna poke bowls, nosh on flatbreads and sip frosé or one of the many “flocktails,” while four-legged companions are treated to their own “Puppy Plates” menu. The dog days of summer, indeed.

Central Business/ Warehouse District THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as Frito pie served in the bag and “Victory Garden” carrot cake. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.ww2eats.com.

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 AUCTION HOUSE MARKET Eclectic. Sister to St.

Roch Market, this bright, modern food hall offers a wide variety of vendors and flavors, from fresh local seafood to Indian, Egyptian and Hawaiian-inspired cuisines. $ B, L, D (daily). www.auctionhousemarket. com. 801 Magazine St., no phone. Map 3, C6 BRIQUETTESeafood. Contemporary coastal is the

catch at this sprawling Warehouse District space.

Follow the lobster-andouille tamale with a lump crab-and-pickled mirliton salad then dive into broiled sea scallops with cheddar grits or a grilled whole redfish. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.briquettenola. com. 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this 18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Bider-

man’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Handground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; housemade mayo and pickles; fresh-baked buns. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident

in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 FLAMINGO AGOGO Eclectic. This sprawling

space features a massive patio, 35 taps pouring beer, wine and batched “flocktails” and late-night bites until 2 am. Grab a Gulf fish torta

(LEFT) ©BEAU CIOLINO/JOHNNY SANCHEZ; (RIGHT) ©DOUG BRANTLEY

Dining August

DINING

or flatbread at lunch, or go big with Hawaiian steak kabobs for dinner. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). flamingonola.com. 869 Magazine St., 504.577.2202. Map 3, B6 HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine

dining spots. The award-winning menu changes fequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint. com. 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s hip eatery puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L, D (daily). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant.com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new

casual dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www. emerilsrestaurants.com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen

Stryjewski (the award-winning team behind porkcentric Cochon) have another winner on their hands. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals... and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap, live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustain-

ably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com.

630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 TSUNAMISushi. At this sprawling sushi emporium

the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Big appetites will want to hit the “Sumo Ribeye.” $$ L, D (MSa). www.servingsushi.com. 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters.

Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell. Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com.

713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

“Shrimp Arnaud,” “Oysters Bienville” and “Café Brûlot” are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BACKSPACE BAR & KITCHEN American. Typewrit-

ers and books line the walls of this comfy spot, which pays homage to the French Quarter’s rich literary legacy. The bar serves drinks fashioned after famed authors’ faves, while the kitchen offers gumbo and sandwiches. Try the “Whitman—roast beef with fried oysters and Swiss on ciabatta. $ L, D (daily). www.backspacenola.com. 139 Chartres St., 504.322.2245. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition

to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse. com. 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with

long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Jake Shapiro serves up longpopular classics, such as broiled black drum with rosemary-mustard crust and ginger-apple glaze.

Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks

and delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy coffeehouses. Adult beverages offered at Bourbon and Decatur locations. $ B, L, D (daily). Jazz performances daily; times vary. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE Cuban. At this rum-centric

restaurant classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as jerk chicken and plantain dumplings. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.caneandtablenola.com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). centralgrocery.com. 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ D (nightly). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CURIOAmerican. Curious what “American cuisine

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo and “pastrami shrimp” Reubens. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola.com.

301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop with superior quality dryw w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 19

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 53-55.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................18

French Quarter.........................................................................................19 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 23 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................24 Mid-City..........................................................................................................24 Uptown..........................................................................................................24

aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan. com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 THE GOVERNOR Louisiana. A nod to Louisiana’s

colorful political figures, the Governor pays playful tribute to the state’s culinary icons: “Election Day” red beans and rice, “Peacemaker” sandwiches loaded with fried oysters and shrimp, “Loaded with Pork” potato bowls. A “Power Brunch” menu is offered all day long. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.governorrestaurant.com. 301 Chartres St., 504.291.1860. Map 3, F4 GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has

taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4

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DINING

IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic

and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. $$ D (M-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. $$$ L, D (daily). www.theitalianbarrel.com/. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5

KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience.

His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with

sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular dining spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LANDRY’S SEAFOODSeafood. Landry’s

locations fittingly offer sweeping views of the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain. The menu is loaded with a wide array of Louisiana coastal cuisine, from shrimp po’ boys to trout meunière, in addition to other specialties. $$ L, D (daily). www.landrysseafood.com. 620 Decatur St., 504.581.9825. Map 3, G5; 8000 Lakeshore Dr., 504.283.1010. Map 1, D1 LATITUDE 29 Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru

Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s seriously cool, newschool tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs and Hawaiian Cuban sandwiches. $$ L (F-Sa), D (daily). www.latitude29nola.com. 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5 MAHONY’S PO’ BOYS Louisiana. This po’ boy shop

serves sandwiches unique enough to tempt locals away from their old favorite joints: beer-braised short ribs, eggplant Parmesan and chicken livers with slaw all on French bread. New Orleans classics (gumbo, shrimps and grits) are also offered, along with fresh-shucked oysters. $$ L, D (daily). www.mahonyspoboys.com. 901 Iberville St., 504.717.2422. Map 3, F3; 3454 Magazine St., 504.899.3374. Map 1, D4 MEAUXBAR French. French bistro standards

tweaked with a thoughtful, modern hand. Dishes include escargot with shiitakes in brandy cream and mussels nestled in a harrisa broth, crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. $$ D (nightly); Br (Su). www.meauxbar.com. 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE Creole. Overlooking

Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Erik Venéy’s contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfish-andgoat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa, Su jazz brunch). www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 21

THE GUIDE

gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro’s new small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings and oyster-and-brie pot pie. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com.

132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com.

309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. Pastry chef extraordi-

naire Tariq Hanna’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for a lingering brunch or afternoon tea. Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Br, L (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com. 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

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DINING

SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south of

Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 SPITFIRE COFFEE Coffee. Short on space but big

on flavor, this third-wave coffee shop, just off Jackson Square, is heating things up with hand-pulled espressos and custom-crafted brews. $ Open daily. www.spitfirecoffee.com. 627 St. Peter St., 225.384.0655. Map 3, F4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dan-

gle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.sylvainnola. com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (daily). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ATCHAFALAYA Creole. Look for the giant cast-

iron skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and menu standouts such as free-form crab ravioli and pan-seared Gulf fish with twice-cooked fingerlings and Vidalia onion beurre blanc. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Th-M). www.atchafalayarestaurant. com. 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4 COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 DISTRICT Coffee. Donuts. Sliders. Brew. That’s the

way District bills itself, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this kicked-up coffee shop: craft-style donuts with rotating flavors (try the Vietnamese coffee variety), savory sliders and nitro-brewed coffee on tap. $ B, L, D (daily). www.donutsandsliders.com.

2209 Magazine St., 504.570.6945. Map 1, D4 JACK ROSE Contemporary. This bold, contempo-

Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard 510 Toulouse St. | 504.524.9632 | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

rary space in the toney Ponchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think tableside Caesers of kale and cauliflower or squid-ink pasta with shrimp in a cayenne-kicked barbecue sauce.

Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. $$$ L (F), D (WSu); Br (Su). www.jackroserestaurant.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE

POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-

your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes (edamame, fish roe, etc.). $ L, D (daily). www.eatpokeloa.com. 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; 939 Girod St., 504.5671.5174. Map 3, B4 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L (WM). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/

bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant.

Dive into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 BYWATER AMERICAN BISTROAmerican. The menu

at this casual neighborhood spot focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Farro risotto with mushrooms and minted breadcrumbs, fried Gulf oysters with oyster gravy and jasmine rice; try the rabbit curry. $$ D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). www.bywateramericanbistro.com. 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 ELIZABETH’S American. “Real food done real

good” is the motto at this homey neighborhood spot, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. $$ B, L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). www.elizabeths-restaurant.com. 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3 THE JOINT Barbecue. This funky Bywater fave is

slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.alwayssmokin.com. 701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PALOMA CAFÉ Latin. This cozy Bywater corner

spot puts out smart, Latin-inspired dishes. The fried cod fritters, chorizo-and-egg biscuits, mojo-roasted pork on fried green plantains and flan are all top picks. $ B, L (M-Sa); D (nightly); Br (Su). www.palomanola.com. 800 Louisa St., 504.304.3062. Map 1, E3 POKECHAN Hawaiian. The order at this pretty oa-

sis-of-a-restaurant is build-your-own bowls of fresh greens, rice, veg and raw fish. Cooked options include salt-flecked kaarage (fried chicken) and tender unagi (eel). $ L, D (daily). www.poke-chan. com. 2809 St. Claude Ave., 504.571.5446. Map 1, E3 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3

Mid-City ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery. This century-old ice

cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with glass-topped tables, slow-turning ceiling fans and some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. $ Open Tu-Su. www.angelobrocatoicecream.com.

214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.0078. Map 1, D2 BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer pulled pork nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the barbecue pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu, get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com.

900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restau-

rateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.ralphsonthepark. com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 1000 FIGS Mediterranean. This popular spot is

the brick-and-mortar space of the team behind the equally popular Fat Falafel food truck. Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj and lamb. $$ L, D (TuSa). www.1000figs.com. 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-gener-

ation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great off-the-

beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Nathanial Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L (Tu-Sa); D (M-Sa); Br (Su). www.boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet.

DINING

No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough— flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ L (Th-F), D (Tu-Sa); Br (SaSu). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 1, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots before devouring the chicken fried rabbit or turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DEL FUEGO Mexican. Chef David Wright ’s

ramped-up taqueria is based on recipes and techniques gathered during travels to Mexico.

Housemade tortillas wrap around duck enchiladas with Oaxacan mole, while tostadas are topped with smoked Gulf fish. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.delfuegotaqueria.com. 4518 Magazine St., 504.309.5797. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB

pays homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine. Think gumbo with crab fat potato salad and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. Killer cocktail program. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate French

bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 MAX WELL Vegetarian. The plant-based, or-

ganic menu at this health-conscious café features “nutrient-dense ingredients to promote maximum wellness.” Translation: fresh fruit and veg juices, silky soups and spectacular salads and bowls. $ L, D (daily). www.maxwellneworleans.com. 6101 Magazine St., 504.301.0510. Map 1, C4 PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans land-

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com

Now Serving Lunch

of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a chef “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). www.patoisnola.com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Chic Indian fare with con-

temporary flair. Top picks include the pakoda choti and roti sathi. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.saffronnola.com.

4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4 UPPERLINE Creole. You’ll see wizards painted on

the exterior and an eclectic art collection inside, both products of the fully original character of owner JoAnn Clevenger, who invented the musttry fried green tomatoes with remoulade. Don’t miss the oysters St. Claude or duck-and-andouille etouffée. $$ D (W-Su). www.upperline.com. 1413 Upperline St., 504.891.9822. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

Shopping

An End-of-Summer Reading List

Très Chic Boutique

Summer produce may be on the wane, but local retail shelves are groaning with a fresh crop of New Orleans-themed books. Southern Decadence in New Orleans (LSU Press) explores four decades of “gay Mardi Gras” through rare photos and ephemera, along with personal accounts from those who have done and seen it all. Catch coauthors Howard Philips Smith and Frank Perez Aug. 28 at the 1850 House (523 St. Ann St.), where they’ll be signing copies. Walking Raddy (University Press of Mississippi) spotlights the history and recent resurgence of the Baby Dolls marching group, while the city’s second-line parade culture is chronicled in the photo-heavy Freedom’s Dance (LSU Press).

Hungry for a taste of France? Step into La Riviére Confiserie (p. 29), “a petit Paris market,” where the imported sweets (Calisson candies, Cruzilles fruit jellies) and savories (olive oils, flavored vinegars) are coupled with French-accented serving ware and table linens. Select toys and jewelry are also offered.

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. www.beckhamsbookshop.com/. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. www.gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 PEACHES RECORDS For nearly five decades, this

local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl record-

ings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part

boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5; 504.484.9830.

DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans

couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 FLEURTY GIRL Lauren Haydel has become a mini

mogul, thanks largely to her popular line of women’s T-shirts, which debuted in 2009. Today her

designs celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1627 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3

H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-toresist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www. hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4 PERLIS Mudbug season lasts year-round at Perlis,

purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. In addition, Perlis carries such specialty items as Mardi Gras-hued rugby shirts. The place for classic seersucker suits. www.perlis.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.523.6681. Map 3, G5; 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661. Map 1, D4 PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child at this

upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish European shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. www.pippenlane.com. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4 TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line

of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret

“MAKIN’ GROCERIES,” a local expression for visiting the supermarket, is a derivation of the French phrase “faire son marché,” which means “to do one’s shopping.”

26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

(RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 53-55.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 26 Clothing........................................................................................................ 26 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 28 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 29 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 29 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 30 Home & Garden.................................................................................... 31 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 31 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 31 Shoes............................................................................................................... 31 Special Services...................................................................................... 31

to its success is its eco-conscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. www.tascperformance.com. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4

Gifts & Collectibles BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRESearching for a set of

custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. www.feelthebite.com. 709 St. Ann St., 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4 BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers handcrafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop, you’ll find

fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery— along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. www.shopforeverneworleans. com. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4

PRODUCTS & SERVICES:

LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures.

New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.littletoyshopnola.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

Notary Public Copies, Fax & Scan

WE SHIP WINE!

FedEx, DHL, & USPS Shipping MON-FRI 9 am – 6 pm; SAT 10 am – 4 pm; SUN Closed

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s bou-

tique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume. com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 SANTA’S QUARTERS Need a little Christmas right

this very minute? Load up the sleigh at this holidaythemed shop—the South’s largest—selling nativity sets, specialty lights and locally crafted ornaments year-round. www.santasquartersno.com. 1025 Decatur St., 504.581.5820. Map 3, H5 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals,

3436 Magazine St. | 504.899.5415

National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier SEELOS In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church

V Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing V Religious Articles V Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street) (504) 525-2495 seelos.org

SHOPPING

note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

BRING NEW ORLEANS HOME S T E R L I N G S I LV E R J E W E L R Y INSPIRED BY NEW ORLE ANS

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.891.1026. Map 1, D4 MARTIN WINE CELLARWine Spectator has recog-

nized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4 719 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70116 504.522.9222 © 2018 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved

ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4; 4500 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.7910.; 400 N. Carrollton Ave, 504.488.2129.

SIMONE’S MARKETA small, independent grocery

Where do you want to go?

Find the best of the city

devoted to thoughtfully selected local and regional products. Prepared foods are also available, along with daily deli specials. www.simonesmarket.com.

8201 Oak St., 504.273.7706. Map 3, C3 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2

Hats & Accessories BELLA UMBRELLA Cloudy skies? This shop helps

you keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrella. www.bellaumbrella.com.

2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4 FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4

AROUND THE bea SQUARE bea

Experience the Charm of the Historic French Quarter

QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2585. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803. Map 1, D4

A

B

C

D

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 MADAME AUCOIN PERFUME“The oldest perfumer

in the South” lives on thanks to her great grandnephew, who recently reopened shop in her former residence. Artisanal fragrance lines, such as Ormond Jayne, Memo and Eight & Bob, are featured. www.madameaucoinperfume.com. 608 Bienville St., 504.259.5975. Map 3, F4 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 504.525.8266. Map 3, F3 SEPHORA The local branch of the nation’s leading

cosmetics and perfume retailer offers more than 13,000 products from 200-plus brands, all of which can be tested on-site. www.sephora.com. 414 N. Peters St., 504.561.9889. Map 3, F5; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504.830.4567. Map 1, C2

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THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

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SHOPPING

TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into

these centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City branch

of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments—reflexology, volcanic stone massages and seaweed wraps—along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www.neworleans.woodhousespas.com.

4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

Home & Garden THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5525 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City

flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www. nolaboards.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 105, 504.435.1485. Map 3, G4 RICCA ARCHITECTURAL SALES Accessible via

the Canal streetcar line, this Mid-City warehouse is packed with retro Southern splendor rescued from demolished buildings. Hard-to-find antique hardware, ornate mantles, stained-glass windows and an endless selection of doors merely hint at the offerings. www.riccasarchitecturalsales.com.

511 N. Solomon St., 504.488.5524. Map 1, D2 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. https://shoprouxroyale.com/. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 SHAUN SMITH HOME “Simplicity is at the core of

my aesthetic sense,” says designer Shaun Smith, whose chic home boutique is a study in the art of blending styles and periods. Vamped-up vintage furnishings meld seamlessly with modern designs.

Select art and accessories is also featured. www.shaunsmithhome.com. 3947 Magazine St., 504.896.1020. Map 1, D4 SPRUCE Does your space need a spruce up? Start

by stopping in at this eco-conscious interiors studio. Funky fabrics, one-of-a-kind wallpaper and design consultation services are offered.

www.sprucenola.com. 2043 Magazine St., 504.265.0946. Map 1, D4

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. artandeyesneworleansla.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 BIJOU NOLA A small shop big on handcrafted

designs by local and international artists. Designs accented with gemstones in 14-kt. gold, sterling silver, stainless steel and titanium are featured. www.bijounola.com. 635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001. Map 3, G4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs-de-lis are prominent, with more than 75 different designs featured. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has

garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe.com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer

Mignon Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades.

New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget.com.

3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 PORTER LYONSJewelry designer Ashley Lyons is

a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-and-mortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5 WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

mid-century modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to themselves, or to friends, then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4

Malls/Major Retailers LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shop-

ping stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Lo-

cated along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace. com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Shoes CHARLESTON SHOE CO.This national retailer’s

“cobblestones to cocktails shoe” designs are the perfect fit for on-the-go women who want to stay comfortable and stylish all day long. www.charlestonshoeco.com. 519 Wilkinson St., Suite 102, 855.996.7462. Map 3, G5; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 855.996.7463. Map 3, E5 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. www.shoebedousa.com.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In addi-

tion to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.net. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother with

baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques Air Your Linens Art lovers are in for a triple treat this month. White Linen Night gets things started Aug. 4 with gallery-goers canvassing the 300 through 700 blocks of Julia Street to see what’s new on the walls. Musicians perform in the street, while chefs and mixologists serve up edible art to the tony crowd from 5:30 to 9:30 pm; a ticketed arty after-party takes place at the Contemporary Arts Center (p. 40, shown). The next week Dirty Linen Night takes over Royal Street with dozens of galleries between the 200 and 1000 blocks offering cool exhibits (and even cooler cocktails) Aug. 11 from 6 to 10 pm. Keeping with the theme, Filthy Linen Night, spotlighting St. Claude Avenue spaces, follows Aug. 18 at 7 pm at the Art Garage (2231 St. Claude Ave).

All events are free.

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Multimedia artist Blake

Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured. www.boydsatellitegallery.com. 440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contem-

porary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are offered. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This gallery is

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6

LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contempo-

rary paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www. lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary

is the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. www. martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ pre-

eminent exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www. stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY

The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery.com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4

ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com.

241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-

Antieau’s offbeat appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted frames. www.antieaugallery. com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at

ARTIST JAMES MICHALOPOULOS, known for his highly collectible architectural works, got his start at Jackson Square, where he drew portraits for $2 to $3 dollars each.

32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

©FRANK AYMAMI/CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

Central Business/ Warehouse District

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 53-55.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 32

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 32 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................35 Collectives.....................................................................................................35

at this hip gallery, which offers a mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 GRAPHITE GALLERYSeeking something cutting-

edge and cool? This is the place. Works by emerging and mid-career artists from around the globe, ranging from paintings to sculpture, are the draw at this contemporary space, which also features upand-coming local talents. www.graphitenola.com.

936 Royal St., 504.565.3739. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4 BRASS MONKEY This tiny storefront offers one

of the largest selections of Limoges boxes in the Quarter, as well as antique walking sticks and other collectible curios. https://www.facebook.com/TheBrass-Monkey-New-Orleans-225156760970188/.

407 Royal St., 504.561.0688. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here.

Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 FUNERAL GALLERY Offbeat illustrations, macabre

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.funeralgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors

will be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings, European porcelain and statuary. www.idamanheimantiques. com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation,

family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. www.cohenantiques.com. 437 Royal St., 504.522.3305. Map 3, F4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in objects

for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver,

porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MODERNIST CUISINE GALLERY Renowned photog-

rapher Nathan Myhrvold focuses on the science of cooking and cutting-edge culinary techniques.

Large-scale, limited-edition prints of his incredible edibles are offered. www.modernistcuisinegallery. com. 305 Royal St., 504.571.5157. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. www.neworleanssilversmiths. com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. www.artgallerynola. com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4 PENNINGTON FINE ARTWith no formal training,

Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others at Boston’s Museum of Fine Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. His gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. www.penningtonart.com. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4 PHOTO WORKS This gallery showcases the work of

photographer Louis Sahuc, known for his dramatic shots of the city, which have been called “the quintessential images of New Orleans.” www. photoworksneworleans.com. 521 St. Ann St., 504.593.9090. Map 3, G5 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 940 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 SCENE BY RHYS“New Orleans music inked into

art,” is the adage of artist Emilie Rhys, who you’ll likely spot sketching away in a local club. Like her legendary father, Noel Rockmore, Rhys captures the beat of the city through portraits of its musicians. www.scenebyrhys.com. 708 Toulouse St., 504.258.5842. Map3, G4 TANNER GALLERIES & STUDIO Home to local

artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine

works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by ToulouseLautrec. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4

new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

623 royAL street

French quArter

new orLeAns

SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

STUDIO SOLITARIO Monet, Hopper, Sargent:

Solitario’s artistic influences are evident in his stunning coastal landscapes and still-life studies.

Counted among the Ogden Museum’s permanent collection, his works are also available for purchase at his Uptown gallery. www.billysolitario.com. 4531 Magazine St., 504.905.4175. Map 1, D4

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away

TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4

Put the power of Where in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android. ®

WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for

undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works—oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks—by dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular 6 17 B i e n v i l l e S t r e e t

New Orleans

Sun–Wed: 10–6 | Thu–Sat: 10–9 michalopoulos .com

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5

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THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Get a Room

Italian Hours

Too hot to play outside? Take it indoors at one of the city’s growing number of escape rooms. The new Smuggler’s Den at Escape My Room (p. 36, shown) plunges participants into pitch-black darkness, making it the award-winning venue’s most challenging concept yet. Novices will have better luck unlocking the Mardi Gras Study, Jazz Parlor or Inventor’s Attic. Clue Carré (830 Union St., 504.667.2583) plays to the city’s darker side with double the number of rooms, ranging from Haunted Swamp to Vampire Hunter, as does Mystere Escape Rooms (4800 Canal St., 504.483.2350) with its Serial Killer Lair and Embalming Room Zombie Escape. How fitting for a former mortuary.

Before the sun sets on summer, grab a bottle of vino and head to City Park for a NOLA Gondola tour (p. 39). Gondolier Robert Dula guides guests on a 50-minute glide through the park’s picturesque, mossdrapped lagoons aboard the Bella Mae. Ramp up the romance factor by booking a sunset cruise.

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM The nation’s largest museum devoted to

insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. wheretraveler.com Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Open daily Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, at 10 am; call for closing hours. www.audubonand was renamed to honor President Andrew institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush Street. Map 3, G5 canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., world’s largest float builder. The tour features a 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 video on the history of Mardi Gras. $22 adults/ ESCAPE MY ROOMThe concept of this live, interacchildren, $17 seniors/students with college ID, tive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an $14 ages 11-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4 pm. www. hour and you and your teammates “escape” the mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 fun) than that. A great activity for families and MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently regroup team-building. www.escapemyroom.com. vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6 New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 as a native American trading post. Along with NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS homegrown specialties, the market also features a Located one block from the Magazine Street number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. 1100 N. Peters sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is St., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, pleasure palace features five New Orleans-themed 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by

CITY PARK’S DUELING OAK , near the entrance to the New Orleans Museum of Art, is where men would gather during the 1800s to conduct affaires d’honneur.

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(LEFT) ©CHERYL GERBER/ESCAPE MY ROOM; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Attractions & Landmarks

SOC_WHERE:Layout 1

3/29/18

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 53-55.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................36 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................38 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 40 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 41 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 42

people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake

Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did.

Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with moonlight and twilight outings. Transportation available; prices vary. Call for reservations and launch locations. www.canoeandtrail.com.

504.233.0686.

The ONLY Non-Profit Touring Organization Dedicated to Cemetery Promotion, Preservation, Restoration & Education.

CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides in-

appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is

the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. A jazz Mass is held Sundays at 10 am. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. www. stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great

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timate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. www. celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative dou-

ble-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280.

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. Tales & Tastes: Your Ultimate Food and Cocktail Tour –Th-Su, 7 pm; call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs.

Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5/7.25 hrs.

Whitney Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs.

Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/ Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.Plantation/Brunch/Swamp

Join us for walking tours through some of the most fascinating cemeteries in New Orleans. Reserve at SaveOurCemeteries.org or call 504-525-3377.

SaveOurCemeteries.org

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Combo –8.75 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am and 1:15 pm from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.).

Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 and

7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www. hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

NEW ORLEANS BREWS CRUISE Get a taste of the

local craft-beer scene with a tour of area breweries.

Learn about the brewing process while sampling three to five varieties at each stop. Great for groups or corporate outings; private and customized excursions are also available. www.neworleansbrewscruise.com. 504.517.4671.

NEW ORLEANS SPIRITS AND SPELLS TOURThese

guided spirited journeys through the French Quarter explore the ghosts, gris-gris and witchery associated with the world’s most magical city. Departs nightly at 7 pm from Hex: Old World Witchery. www.spiritsandspellstour.com. 1219 Decatur St., 504.667.5570. Map 3, I5 NOLA GONDOLA A romantic retreat in the heart of

the city. Board the Bella Mae, an authentic Venetian gondola, for a guided glide through City Park’s Big Lake and moss-draped lagoons. Tours are 50 minutes and can accommodate up to six. $90/couple; $10 per additional passenger. Open daily, 1-8 pm. www.nolagondola.com. 56 Dreyfous Dr., City Park, 504.450.4400. Map 1, D2 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES St. Louis No. 1: departs

daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm, and Su at 10 am from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under. Lafayette No. 1: departs daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the river; call for availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer

a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm. www.vipcitytours.com.

2314 Iberville St., 504.329.2489. Map 1, D3 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 39

THE GUIDE

VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from701 Royal St.; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

Museums & Exhibits CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM

Established in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $10 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. $10 adults; $8 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www. cacno.org. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6

Celebrating 300 Years of New Orleans As New Orleans celebrates its 300th anniversary, The Historic New Orleans Collection presents exhibitions that chronicle the city’s development and growth, a guided tour of an elegant French Quarter residence, and a museum shop with locally inspired gifts, books, prints, and jewelry. Discover the stories of New Orleans at The Historic New Orleans Collection.

For more details, visit www.hnoc.org.

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 THNOC Where.July2018 finalrev2.indd 1 am, 2 and 3 pm). www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: “The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History.” 1850 House (523 St. Ann St.)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave.)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Second-floor exhibits trace the history of jazz in the city, from its inception to today. Presbytère (Jackson Square)–Continuing: “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” and “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond.” For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history

tribute to the veterans of World War II is a worldclass military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries” and “Final Mission” an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6

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Follow us! @visit_thnoc 533 Royal Street & 400–410 Chartres Street In the French Quarter (504) 523-4662 • www.hnoc.org

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NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 60 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open M-F, 10 am-6 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, offering a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free). Open Fri-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6

Cocktails ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop

bar, which offers amazing views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9 pm. www.acehotel. com/neworleans/alto. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 3, C5 ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 am - 4 pm by Admission

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 AVENUE PUBThe New Orleans go-to for craft

beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. www.theavenuepub. com. 1732 St. Chares Ave., 504.586.9243 Map1, D3 BARREL PROOF From Japanese Yamazaki to

Kentucky-aged Old Grand-Dad, the top shelf at this hip Lower Garden District spot holds more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. www.barrelproofnola.com. 1201 Magazine St., 504.299.1888. Map 3, A7 CUREThis cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed

in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-

plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 HERMES BARThis sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance and knowledgeable bartenders. Live entertainment on weekends. www.nolabubbles. com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play

(the author once stayed here), this Pontchartrain Hotel rooftop hot spot is modeled after an artist’s loft. The sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a massive

tap room and in-house barbecue make this a muststop for beer fans. www.nolabubbles.com. 3301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896. 9996. Map 3, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 41

THE GUIDE

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PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentle-

men’s club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic cock-

tails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel.

The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—which was perfected here. www.therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 URBAN SOUTH BREWING Housed in a 19th-century

warehouse, this modern-minded brewery is out to “re-establish New Orleans as the beer capital of the South.” Its taproom features a variety of brews crafted on-site. www.urbansouthbrewery.com.

1645 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.267.4852. Map 1, E4

Live Entertainment CHICKIE WHA WAH This hot venue keeps the

Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 504.244.2543. Map 1, D3 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape in-

side the Ritz-Carlton offering classic cocktails, sexy

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small plates and live entertainment by trumpeter/ crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com.

921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 HIHO LOUNGE This legendary dive got a post-

Katrina makeover with an expanded stage and new sound system. But the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever. Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque. www.hoholounge. net. 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside

the Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday.

The Playhouse features performances by a rotating roster of top-tier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. www. sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz

landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene.

The supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon. com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAPLE LEAF BAR A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk

from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay of

Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696 Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St., no phone. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers a veritable

nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5

THE GUIDE

Navigate Something Borrowed, Something Blue

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2019.

44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

©JASON COHEN

How best to navigate around New Orleans and squeeze in a little exercise at the same time? On one of the 700-plus Blue Bikes that recently hit the streets.

The city’s new municipal bicycle-sharing program, in partnership with Blue Cross/ Blue Shield of Louisiana (hence their color), offers an easy alternative to Uber with dozens of rental/drop-off stations stretching from the French Quarter to City Park and between the Bywater and Garden District neighborhoods. Riders register on the Blue Bikes website or app, where they receive account and pin numbers needed to unlock the bikes, which rent for $8 an hour and can be dropped off at any rack station citywide.

For additional information and a map of locations, visit bluebikesnola.com…and get rolling.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 53-55.

Index General Information........................................................................... 44 Nearby Destinations............................................................................45 Cajun Country...........................................................................................45 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 45 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 45 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................45 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................45 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 45 Transportation ....................................................................................... 44

CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes and other modern

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD Nearly wiped off the map by

Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include the Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts.

Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communi-

ties, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. Vermillion Parish, “the most Cajun place on earth,” draws outdoor enthusiasts with its hunting, fishing and some of the best birding in the country. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory. www.lafayettetravel.com; www.vermillion.org, www.cajuncountry.org.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com.

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. 800.688.2732; www.houmatravel.com. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 45

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Ready for Their Close-Ups With their centuries-old oaks, ornate architecture and period-perfect furnishings, Louisiana’s plantations are a Hollywood location scout’s dream. Visit Houmas House, and you’ll see pictures of Bette Davis adorning the bedroom she stayed in while shooting 1964’s “Hush…

Hush, Sweet Charlotte,” which also filmed at picturesque Oak Alley (shown), which you’ll recognize from its star turns in everything from 1984’s “Interview With the Vampire” to Beyoncé’s 2006 “Déjà Vu” video. “Vampire” also shot at Destrehan, along with “12 Years a Slave.”

Scenes from “Slave” were likewise filmed at St. Joseph, which was the setting for 2016’s remake of “Roots” and 2017’s “Mudbound.” Other starring roles include Evergreen (“Django Unchained”), Nottoway (“The Magnificent Seven”) and Felicity (“The Skeleton Key”).

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain.

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2 01 8

©OAK ALLEY PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 50 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 50 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 51 Dining........................................................................................................... 52

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2 01 8

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 1 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 2 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

First-Timers

Romantics

History Buffs

With three centuries of history to cull from, New Orleans has more than its fair share of must-dos. You’ll find hordes of folks queued up outside of (1) Café Du Monde, but don’t let the long lines deter you; the trademark café au lait and fresh-fried beignets are well worth the wait. Celebrating death may seem macabre, but here jazz funerals are a way of life. (2) Save Our Cemeteries offers guided excursions through St. Louis Cemetery #1, just outside of the French Quarter, which counts voodoo priestess Marie Laveau and (still-living) actor Nicolas Cage among its aboveground tombs.

The crumbling walls at the (3) Napoleon House hint at its early age. A warm muffuletta and an icy Pimm’s Cup in the courtyard make for a picture-perfect NOLA moment.

With couples canoodling on benches and the statue of Andrew Jackson tipping his hat toward the former dwelling of his alleged lover, (1) Jackson Square has been wooing romantics since 1851. Mule-drawn carriage tours line up at its entrance, providing the perfect opportunity to snuggle together. The (2) New Orleans Museum of Art’s free, outdoor sculpture garden features more than 60 swoon-worthy works by modern masters, including Robert Indiana’s iconic “LOVE” sculpture, tucked amid lush landscaping. Indulge in each other in elegance at the (3) Spa at the Ritz-Carlton with the “Le Charme Romantique” package, a couple’s massage that incorporates two Crescent City classics: coffee and pralines. Even sweeter is the champagne for two.

Predating the city itself, the (1) French Market ranks as the oldest active public market in the U.S. The open-air venue offers a number of food stalls, in addition to fresh produce and souvenirs. With its numerous French Quarter properties, hundreds of rare holdings and free exhibits, the (2) Historic New Orleans Collection is the perfect place for a Vieux Carré primer. Brush up on the city’s 300-year backstory in its Louisiana History Galleries. Hot southern nights call for cool jazz, and it doesn’t get much cooler than (3) Preservation Hall, which has been dedicated to preserving the city’s timehonored jazz customs since 1961. Don’t want to stand or sit on the floor? Call ahead to reserve “Big Shot” seats.

56 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I AU G U S T 2018

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UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS