Where Magazine New Orleans Jan 2018

JANUARY 2018 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

®

ALLSTATE SUGAR BOWL LATE-NIGHT BITES CARNIVAL KICKOFF

CHEERS TO 300 YEARS! The city celebrates its tricentennial and other big birthdays

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New Orleans CONTENTS

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the plan

the guide 20

9 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Yvette Porter Concierge at the Renaissance Père Marquette hotel.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus black-eyed peas and king cake.

10 Editor’s Note Revisiting 50 years of Where New Orleans.

XX 30 SHOPPING

12 Hot Dates

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus relaxation stations and the Magazine scene.

15

GALLERIES &

37 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl.

Plus prospecting Prospect.4 and cool crafts.

42 ENTERTAINMENT XX Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs. Plus brewery tours and music at the Maple Leaf.

XX

50

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus the Tammany Trace.

64 New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for first-time visitors, romance lovers and supernatural seekers.

ON THE COVER

JANUARY 2018 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

®

A French 75 cocktail from Arnaud's,

ALLSTATE SUGAR BOWL

17

where now

XX

58

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus a fresh perspective on the past.

LATE-NIGHT BITES CARNIVAL KICKOFF

14 Local Knowledge

which celebrates its 100th anniver-

NOLA's big 3-0-0; party like it's 1718.

CHEERS TO 300 YEARS!

sary during 2018. ©SARA ESSEX BRAD-

NAVIGATE

The city celebrates its tricentennial and other big birthdays

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E~NO-WM_180100_01_Cover.indd 1

LEY/ARNAUD'S CONNECT WITH US

300

N O L A

12/4/17 3:02 PM

16 Out + About

The art of fantasy, five Carnival parades you've got to catch and a paranormal prowl.

17 Local Flavor

25 things we love about New Orleans.

18 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

Late-night eats, dining dish and deep-fried bananas.

6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 61-63

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Allstate Sugar Bowl Alabama takes on Clemson, Katy Perry, Steve Martin, Martin Short, The Moody Blues and 24 other entertainment ideas to entertain.

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Yvette Porter Concierge at the Renaissance Père Marquette Q: January kicks off with the Allstate Sugar Bowl. What local sweet are you most sweet on?

A: Each year I stop by Marguerite’s Cakes in Metairie and bring little football-shaped king cakes to work. That’s how I celebrate the Sugar Bowl. I also love the coconut pralines at Southern Candymakers (p. 34).

What do you love most about New Orleans?

The culture, the people, the southern, the respect.

The city celebrates its 300th anniversary this year. Where would you send guests for a special anniversary dinner?

Muriel’s (p. 25) is one of my favorite restaurants in the city. I would also suggest Broussard’s (p. 22).

What about for a late-night bite?

Sylvain (p. 26) has great cocktails and small plates.

Carnival season also gets going in this month. Any advice for Mardi Gras firsttimers?

Look for the food trucks along the parade route. The Food Drunk food truck has this king cake burger, which is awesome. You can get a king cake just about anywhere, but that really ups the game.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©BROUSSARD'S

Any New Year’s resolutions?

My father just passed, so my resolution is to live life to the fullest. My philosophy is, if you can do it now, do it. Don’t put off what you can do today. Time waits on no one.

Broussard's

9

EDITOR’S NOTE DOUG BRANTLEY

A LOOK BACK

Where We Were

FREE LIFETIME ALTERATIONS • YEAR ROUND SERVICE

This year marks Where New Orleans’ 50th anniversary. To commemorate the midcentury milestone, we opened our archives, dusted off back issues and throughout 2018 will be revisiting years past. Let’s start at the beginning.

When Where New Orleans debuted in 1968 it was a weekly publication with 16 dedicated pages. Covers from the time largely feature popular films from the day (“Funny Girl,” “The Odd Couple,” “Planet of the Apes”), with many of the city’s early performance spaces having been converted into big-screen movie theaters.

The Rivergate exhibition hall opened where Harrah’s Casino now stands, Gray Line offered six tours (compared to today’s 20-plus) and a box of 12 "Holmesmade" pralines went for $1.69. Tiny Tim performed at the Municipal Auditorium, while Kay Starr held court at the Roosevelt Hotel’s famed Blue Room. Al Hirt and Pete Fountain’s Bourbon Street nightspots were still going strong, as was the Playboy Club and the revolving Top of the Mart.

Brennan’s promised “food to write home about,” T. Pittari’s boasted “steak of tiger, elk, elephant and hippopotamus” and the Court of Two Sisters touted “N.O. drinks (anytime).” The Saints kicked off their second season at Tulane Stadium, the New Orleans Museum of Art still operated as the Isaac Delgado Museum and, on the fashion front, “the California look” was “superseded by the Nehru jacket.”

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in the world

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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WHERE CALENDAR JANUARY

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TOP STOPS

HOT

22 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

HOUSE OF BLUES Jan. 6: Run for the Shadows: A Bowie Theatrical Production; Jan. 23: Jonny Lang; Jan. 27: Lucinda Williams; Jan. 29: Cowboy Mouth. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583; hob.com

Bal Masqué

JANUARY 20:

Bal Masqué

From the 16th through the 19th century, lavish Carnival masquerade balls were all the rage in Europe. In recent years, chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski, the award-winning team behind Cochon and Pêche, have revived the tradition locally as an annual benefit for their foundation. The duo’s Bal Masqué has grown so popular that this year it moves from the Orpheum Theater to the Sugar Mill. Celebrating Caribbean, Cajun and New Orleans Carnival, the big-ticket, costumed affair features acclaimed chefs (including five James Beard honorees), along with performances by the Haitian band RAM, the Grammy-nominated Lost Bayou Ramblers and the Merry Antoinettes Mardi Gras krewe, among others. balmasque.linkstryjewski.org

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

ALLSTATE SUGAR BOWL > JAN. 1 The Clemson Tigers and the Alabama Crimson Tide square off at the Superdome at 7:30 pm. Can’t score tickets? You can still get in the team spirit with the free Fan Jam in the Dome-adjacent Champions Square, which starts at 4 pm. 1500 Poydras St. 800.745.3000 1

Katy Perry caption here Tango Fire

There’s a lot more going on this month.

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2 KATY PERRY > JAN. 5 The “queen of quirk” roars into town on her nationwide “Witness” tour. Taylor Swift fans, play nice. Smoothie King Center, 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

THE MOODY BLUES > JAN. 89 Their fusion of rock and classical in songs such as “Nights in White Satin” helped pave the way for other 1970s progressive rock bands. Catch 3

12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

the Blues on their 50th anniversary tour at the Saenger. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 STEVE MARTIN & MARTIN SHORT > JAN. 21 What’s funnier than two SNL alums sharing the same stage? Not much. Join them for “an evening you will forget for the rest of your lives.” Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 4

5 MY FAVORITE MURDER > JAN. 26 The popular podcast, which couples true crime with dark humor (“stay sexy; don’t get murdered”), follows up on its sold-out 2016 tour at the Orpheum Theater. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870

6 TANGO FIRE > JAN. 27 The Buenos Aires-based troupe of world champion tango couples turns up the heat at the Mahalia Jackson Theater. 801 N. Rampart St., 504.522.0996

JOY THEATER Jan. 6: Todd Snider; Jan. 12: Special Birthday Tribute to Allen Toussaint; Jan. 14: Milky Chance; Jan. 16: Datisk; Jan. 27: Cody Jinks. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569; thejoytheater.com SAENGER THEATRE Jan. 20: “A Prairie Home Companion” with Chris Thile; Jan. 25: Johnny Mathis; Jan. 30: “An American in Paris.” 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000; saengernola.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER New Orleans Pelicans Home Games—Jan. 8: vs. Detroit Pistons; Jan. 12: vs. Portland Trail Blazers; Jan. 20: vs.

Memphis Grizzlies; Jan. 22: vs. Chicago Bulls; Jan. 26: vs. Houston Rockets; Jan. 28: vs.

Los Angeles Clippers; Jan. 30: vs. Sacramento Kings. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000; smoothiekingcenter.com THE SPOTTED CAT Jan. 1: Jazz Vipers; Jan. 9: Smokin’ Time Jazz Club; Jan. 20: Meschiya Lake & the Little Big Horns. 623 Frenchmen St; spottedcatmusicclub.com

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DATES

where now New Orleans

Preparing café brûlot tableside at Arnaud’s

14 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

The city’s top attractions, entertainment, dining and more

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LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Parties of the Centuries New Orleans is always up for a party. After New Year’s, Christmas garlands come down and Carnival season bunting goes up. Just a few days into January, and we’re back in the streets, ready for Twelfth Night revelry. This year promises to be even more celebratory than usual, with the city commemorating its big 3-0-0 birthday throughout 2018 and other local institutions joining in. Keep your party hats on and those noisemakers at the ready; the Big Easy has a bang-up, blowout year ahead.

300: NEW ORLEANS Gold traditionally marks 50th celebrations and diamonds are synonymous with 75th, but what’s appropriate for a 300th anniversary? For New Orleans, the answer is obvious: a yearlong party. It started in November with fireworks at City Park. This month brings more fireworks (Jan. 6 at 9 pm along the Mississippi riverfront) to kick off Mardi Gras festivities, followed by a tricentennial Mass at St. Louis Cathedral Jan. 7, beginning at 10 am.

The Cathedral (p. 45) will likewise unveil a new pope-blessed statue

(LEFT) ©DOUG BRANTLEY; (BOTTOM) ©MCILHENNY COMPANY; (OPENING PAGE) ©ARNAUD’S

City Park

of St. John Paul II, in tribute to his visit 1987 visit to the city.

January visitors will also find a number of anniversary-related exhibits around town. At the Odgen Museum (p. 48), “Solidary & Solitary” spotlights African-American artists from the 1940s through today, while “The Church and the Crescent” explores 300 years of Catholicism in the city at the Old Ursuline Convent (p. 45). Foodies get their fill with “The Women Who Made the Food of New Orleans” at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum (p. 48).

Additional highlights from the coming year include: the Historic New Orleans Collection’s “New

Orleans, the Founding Era” exhibit opening in February, the “Up From the Streets” concert in March, April’s arrival of the Tall Ships and gathering of international dignitaries at historic Gallier Hall, new murals and illuminated NOLA300 installations at various locations around the city and, yes … even more fireworks from City Park to the riverfront. For a full schedule of events, visit 2018nola.com.

150: TABASCO Part of this month’s NOLA300 lineup includes a staging of “Tabasco: A Burlesque Opera” Jan. 25-28 at Le Petit Theatre (lepetittheatre. com), which also serves as a salute to the famed Louisiana-based hot sauce company’s 150th anniversary. The rarely produced comedic work, which dates to 1894 and was recently resurrected by local conductor Paul Mauffray, recounts the tale of an Ottoman ruler bored with bland food and his desperate chef’s efforts to spice things up. Produced by the New Orleans Opera Association, in conjunction with its own 75th anniversary, the rollicking revival is backed by a full orchestra.

Tabasco factory

A 1970 issue of Where New Orleans

Hot sauce fans should also schedule a tour of the Tabasco factory (p. 46) and its 170-acre Jungle Gardens and bird sanctuary. The two-hour Avery Island excursion makes a great day trip; to make it easy on visitors, Tabasco offers round-trip bus tours that include lunch at its 1868 restaurant. For details, visit tabasco.com.

100: ARNAUD’S For a real taste of history, head to Arnaud’s (p. 22), which pops the cork on a century of Creole fine dining this year. The legendary eatery, which has fed and feted numerous celebrities and U.S. presidents, touts a menu that has remained largely unchanged over the past 100 years, with such signature dishes as oysters Bienville and shrimp in remoulade sauce. But throughout 2018 the restaurant will roll out new items, such as Gulf Fish Gremob-

loise, in celebration of its next 100 years.

Between courses, sneak upstairs to the Germaine Cazenave Wells Mardi Gras Museum (p. 46), which houses Carnival finery worn by the daughter of founder Arnaud Cazenave.

50: WHERE NEW ORLEANS This year also sees Where New Orleans reach the half-century mark; 50 years of bringing the best of the Big Easy to our readers. In honor of the occasion, we jumped in the wayback machine and plied through archival issues, which we’ll be highlighting each month during 2018 (see p. 10).

Like Arnaud’s, we’re also looking ahead, with an eye on the early 2019 opening of the new Louis Armstrong International Airport terminal, which will feature its own WhereTraveler store. To infinity and beyond!

15

WHERE NOW New

Orleans Street Scenes Carnival season gets going this month with five fun parades, each with its own flair.

PHUNNY PHORTY PHELLOWS This madcap group was once the last Mardi Gras parade to roll. Now it’s the first. Heralding the “countdown to Carnival,” it hits the rails Jan. 5 at 7 pm for its annual St. Charles streetcar ride. phunnyphortyphellows.com KREWE DE JEANNE D’ARC This popular procession pays homage to the “Maid of Orleans” and the city’s French heritage.

Joan of Arc’s 606th birthday falls on Jan. 6, making it perfectly acceptable to don medieval attire and take to the streets of the French Quarter at 7 pm. joanofarcparade.org

Jan. 6 at 7:30 pm on the Rampart streetcar line.

KREWE DU VIEUX Bawdy and naughty, political and satirical, the rowdy and randy Krewe du Vieux is a hands-down local favorite. Catch the French Quarter frenzy Jan. 27, beginning at 6:30 pm. kreweduvieux.org KREWEDELUSION Krewe du Vieux is a hard act to follow, but over the past nine years, krewedelusion, which rolls in its wake, has found its footing and a loyal following of its own. krewedelusion.org Phunny Phorty Phellows

SOCIÉTÉ DES CHAMPS ELYSÉE Carnival’s newest krewe caused a rumble on the rails last year, following in the Phellows’ Uptown tracks with its own streetcar party in the Quarter. This year the two distance themselves a bit more, with the Société’s ride slated for An 1898 Wikstrom costume design for the Krewe of Proteus

PAST PRESENCE During the 1800s numerous New Orleanians died from yellow fever, leaving behind hundreds of orphans, many on the

Art on Parade

doorstep of St. Vincent’s Infant Asylum. Soon to become a

Beyond the beads, there is an art to bringing Mardi Gras parades to life. One of Crescent City Carnival’s early influencers was Bror Anders Wikstrom, a Swedish-born illustrator who served as lead designer for Rex. Along with creating elaborate costume and float designs for Rex and the Krewe of Proteus, Wikstrom also helped found the New Orleans Artists Association, which, in turn, led to the establishment of the New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 46). So it’s only fitting NOMA should mount Bringing Fantasy to Carnival, which spotlights Wikstrom’s works, from watercolor costume sketches to photos of his floats on the streets. Of special note is a full set of final design plates from Proteus’ 1904 “The Alphabet” parade.

stomping ground for the New Orleans Paranormal Society,

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

high-end hotel, the sprawling complex currently serves as which offers explorations of the circa-1861 property through French Quarter Phantoms Tours (p. 46). Using “pseudo-scientific equipment,” head investigator Chris Melanson and his ghostbusting sidekicks lead hands-on, after-dark spirit quests, calling on the priests, nuns and young children who lived and died in the building. Though guests experience varying degrees of activity, all leave feeling haunted by the orphange and the hardships endured during the time. “Paranormal is not science,” says Melanson.

“Sometimes nothing, sometimes remarkable things happen.”

(LEFT) ©NOMA; (CENTER) CHERYL GERBER; (BOTTOM) ©DOUG BRANTLEY

OUT+ABOUT

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LOCAL FLAVOR

25 Things We Love About New Orleans In honor of the city’s tricentennial, each month during 2018 we are highlighting a few of our favorite things (25 x 12 = 300). Have one of your own? Share it with us at 25things@morris.com, and we’ll consider it for the next issue.

1 2

14

Taking a spin on City Park’s century-old carousel (p. 42).

Letting little hands take the reins on mule-led, French Quarter carriage rides.

The cornstalk fence at 915 Royal Street—one of the city’s most photographed sites.

15

Warming up with a flaming café brûlot (coffee, brandy and spices) at Antoine’s (p. 22), where the drink originated during the 1890s.

3

Grown men wearing bibs while devouring barbecue shrimp at Pascale’s Manale (p. 29).

16

The scent of vetiver, a Creole ladies’ dressing table staple, wafting out of Hové (p. 34).

4

Serene St. Anthony’s Garden, the city’s oldest green space, tucked behind St. Louis Cathedral (p. 45), the nation’s oldest active Catholic cathedral.

17

Time-traveling via a visit to the Historic New Orleans Collection’s Louisiana History Gallery (p. 46).

5

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER, LEFT) ©MICHALOPOULOS; (CENTER, RIGHT) ©MERIL; (BOTTOM) ©ROOSEVELT HOTEL

5

The gilded Joan of Arc statue, (Decatur and Dumaine streets), a gift to the city from France, glinting in the afternoon sun.

6 7

18

The French Quarter’s horsehead hitching posts and fish-mouth downspouts.

19

Locals’ obsession with king cake.

The circa-1750 staircase at the Old Ursuline Convent

(p. 45).

Hearing live opera performed on the second Saturday of the month at Four Points by Sheraton (p. 63), where the nation’s first opera house once stood.

11

8 9 10

The Vieux Carré’s Spanish street tiles.

Louis Armstrong’s first cornet, on view at the New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint (p. 46).

The clicketyclack of the St. Charles streetcar rumbling along the avenue.

The 2000-year-old cypresslog table and indigo-stained bar at Restaurant R’evolution (p. 26).

23

Catching an in-store performance while rummaging the racks at the Louisiana Music Factory (p. 30).

11

Artist James Michalopoulos’ signature slant on area architecture (p. 38).

24

Spying a Civil War submarine while exploring the grounds at Houmas House Plantation and Gardens (p. 58).

Sneaking peeks into cloistered courtyards.

The nightly light shows on the exterior of the Mercedes-Benz Superdome (p. 44).

The boudin tamales at Meril (p. 21).

22

The Saenger Theatre’s twinkling celestial ceiling.

12 13

20

20 21

25

25

Imbibing in history with a Sazerac cocktail at the Sazerac Bar (p. 48).

17

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed.

Camellia Grill

FOOD+DRINK

Late Night, Big Easy New Orleans is a city where the line between night and day often blurs, and managing the delicate balance between booze and food is crucial. Fortunately, a number of pubs, restaurants and take-out joints provide food yin to the cocktail yang.

Need a burger? At Clover Grill (p. 23) they’re griddled on the flat-top, under a hubcap and often come with a side of late-night, entertainment. Buffa’s (1001 Esplanade Ave., 504.949.0038) weighs in with the Gotham Knight, an all-beef burger topped by a slab of deep-fried honey-praline ham, Swiss and sautéed mushrooms.

Or go old school at Krystal (p. 25) with a “Krystal Sackfull” of sliders.

Po’ boy fans know that until midnight Killer PoBoys (p. 25) in the Erin Rose bar rolls out a stunning Seared Gulf Shrimp po’ boy with marinated vegetables.

Or hit Verti Marte (1201 Royal St., 504.525.4767) for the All That Jazz—a behemoth of grilled ham, turkey, shrimp, cheeses, mushrooms, tomatoes and “wow sauce.”

Not feeling burgers or po’boys?

Pull into Coop’s (p. 48) for gumbo or red beans and rice with fried chicken (Friday and Saturday ’til 1

am), Faubourg Bistro (p. 23) for PB, B&J Wings (the extra “b” stands for bacon) ’til 2 am or Cunada (833 Conti St., 504.525.9200) for Mexican foodstuffs ’til 4 am. Golden Chips (537 Toulouse St., 504.510.5844) turns out crisp, fluffy-centered yucca fries to drag through Tabasco-spiked mayo weekends ’til 1 am, while Sweet Things & Grill (806 Conti St., 504.510.4069) rolls 24/7 with mini burgers, chicken tenders and solid breakfast options that are trumped only by the donuts.

Uptown all-nighters dive into the St. Charles Tavern (1433 St. Charles Ave., 504.523.9823) for a steak dinner or seafood plate and The Trolley Stop (1923 St. Charles Ave., 504. 523.0090), where breakfast reigns supreme. Camellia Grill (p. 28) is the perfect place to crush a good burger or chilicheese omelet and slurp an icy Mocha Freeze weekends ’til 2 am. —Lorin Gaudin

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

GABRIELLE Gabrielle’s return to the local restaurant landscape was among 2017’s most anticipated, and its new location in Tremé is a sign of the city’s continuing expansion and interest in destination dining. The menu reflects beloved dishes (slow-roasted duck atop shoestring potatoes), some new recipes and a surprise or two, like braised rabbit with rose-petal syrup and a side of Stilton cheese fries. Save room for dessert; both the peppermint patty and the pistachio ice cream are divine. 2441 Orleans Ave., 504.603.2344 SALON BY SUCRÉ Chef Tariq Hanna may be known for his sugar palace, Sucré, but what’s even sweeter is the savory brunch menu at his French Quarter restaurant. Start with Baked French Onion Soup, or skip straight to the incredibly decadent Croque Benedict, which layers a soft-cooked egg, velvety

Mornay sauce, gooey raclette cheese, Crystal hollandaise and apple ham on a chive biscuit. Did we mention the pork schnitzel sandwich or the lamb burger and zaatar frites? What about the bottomless mimosas? 622 Conti St., 504.267.7098 ROYAL FRENCHMEN This new boutique hotel in the lively Marigny neighborhood has a sharp bar menu of cool cocktails and fancy snacks. The bright and tangy Mexican Shrimp Cocktail is lush with big Gulf shrimp and garnishes of avocado and radish.

The Tasso & Fontina Fritters are another hit, as are the latenight hours. 700 Frenchmen St., 504.619.9660 —LG

Salon by Sucré

LAST BITE In New Orleans bananas hold legendary dessert status in the form of bananas Foster, a stunningly simple dessert of flambéed bananas, brown sugar, butter and rum, sloshed over vanilla ice cream. Working with that epic flavor combination, pastry chef Lisa Barbato at The Country Club (p. 27) takes her spin one step further, incorporating dulce de leche (creamy caramel) and another New Orleans classic, the deep fryer. For her Banana Fritta, Barbato stuffs fresh bananas with homemade caramel, batters and crumb-coats the fruit, then fries the works until crispcrusted and golden. A trio of fried bananas is plated and topped with a scoop of housemade ice cream and more dulce de leche … because this incredible, shareable dessert is utterly bananas. —LG

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER) ©SALON BY SUCRÉ; (BOTTOM) ©THE COUNTRY CLUB

WHERE NOW New

the guide You’re In Luck

Eat Like a King

The Southern tradition of eating black-eyed peas on New Year’s Day is said to bring good luck and prosperity in the months ahead. Fortunately they aren’t limited only to early January; you’ll find them on menus around town year-round. At Curio (p. 23) earthy black-eyed peas are paired with duck in gumbo, while Angeline (p. 22, left) serves up black-eyed pea-and-collard green soup bolstered with bourbon and bacon. Veg out on black-eyed peas combined with roasted sweet potatoes, braised greens and pecan spread at Killer Po’Boys (p. 25); carnivore cravings are sated at Toups’ Meatery (p. 28, center), where the roasted lamb neck comes nestled in black-eyed pea ragout.

With Twelfth Night comes the start of king cake season. The Carnival confection is offered in a wide range of flavors and styles at bakeries citywide. Which is the best?

Judge for yourself Jan. 28 during the 5th annual King Cake Festival at Champions Square, where dozens of vendors vie for top honors. kingcakefestival.org

Central Business/ Warehouse District AGLIO— Italian. This ramped-up neighborhood deli

pays homage to the chefs’ Louisiana and Sicilian heritages with family favorites like fig cookies, red gravy and meatballs taken to the next level. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.aglionola.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.827.1090. Map 3, B4 THE AMERICAN SECTOR— American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BALISE— French. Chef Justin Devillier of La Petite

Grocery and “Top Chef” fame now has a second space in a beautifully restored 1830s building with cool art, smart cocktails and a small menu with depth. Must-haves include the fried smoked oysters and chicken and ricotta dumplings. $$ L (F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.balisenola.com. 640 Carondelet St., 504.459.4449. Map 3, C5 20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

BORGNE— Seafood. At this seafood-centric restau-

rant, fantastic apps (such as duck-and-jalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with easy-going sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. $$ L, D (daily). www.borgnerestaurant.com.

601 Loyola Ave. (in the Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504.613.3860. Map 3, C3 BRIQUETTE—Seafood. Contemporary coastal is the

catch at this sprawling Warehouse District space.

Follow the lobster-andouille tamale with a lump crab-and-pickled mirliton salad then dive into broiled sea scallops with cheddar grits or a grilled whole redfish. $$$ D (nightly). 701 S. Peters St., 504.302.7496. Map 3, C6 CAFÉ ADELAIDE— Louisiana. Chef Meg Bickford

helms the kitchen at this bistro spinoff of Commander’s Palace in the Loews Hotel. Bickford serves up playful takes on modern Creole cuisine, like oyster and pork belly po’ boys. B, L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.cafeadelaide.com. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6 CAFÉ CARMO— International. This island-inspired

space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious—dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork)

and shrimp-filled black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. $ B, L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.cafecarmo.com. 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS— Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON— Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (daily). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGER—American. Adam Bider-

man’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Handground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with

(LEFT) ©DENNY CULBERT/ANGELINE; (CENTER) ©SARA ESSEX BRADLEY/TOUPS’ MEATERY; (RIGHT) ©SEAN LOCKE PHOTOGRPAHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Dining January

DINING

American cheese; house-made mayo and pickles; fresh-baked buns. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN— Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6

CRAZY LOBSTER— Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 THE DAILY BEET—Vegetarian. Light, healthy eats and

cold-pressed juices are the draw at this industrialchic café. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprout salad or an “Oribt” bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. $ B, L, D

(daily). www.thedailybeetnola.com. 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, B4 DOMENICA— Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot offers out-of-the-norm antipasta (octopus carpaccio, roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 EMERIL’S— Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 HERBSAINT— French. One of the city’s premier fine

dining spots. James Beard Award-winning chef Rebecca Wilcomb’s menu changes fequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com. 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ— Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chefs (and old friends) John Besh and Aarón Sánchez teamed to create this hip eatery, which puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant. com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE— Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. The “Peanut Butter Pie Budino” is a must for dessert. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAYPOP—Vietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL— International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 NEW ORLEANS SOCIAL HOUSE— Contemporary.

Noshing on sharable small plates—lobster tacos, bison sliders, salmon tartines—while sipping craft cocktails and wine, is the idea here. Live music nightly. $$ D (nightly). www.noshneworleans.com.

752 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.1103. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE— Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (daily). w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 21

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................20

Central City..................................................................................................22 French Quarter........................................................................................22 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 26 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................27 Mid-City..........................................................................................................28 Uptown..........................................................................................................28

delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. $ L (M-Su), D (M-Sa). www.stjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4 WILLA JEAN BAKERY— Bakery. Pastry chef Kelly

Fields, known for her beautiful baked goods, shows off her savory side as well in dishes such as braised lamb pasta with mint pesto. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L (M-F); D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ— Barbecue. Stellar barbecue

and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L, D (daily). www.centralcitybbq.com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS— Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTH—Southern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL— American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap (including a full line of locally made Abita brews), live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY— Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 SAC-A-LAIT— Louisiana. Chefs Cody and Samantha

Carroll bring country dishes with a city spin. Proof: a mildly wild-tasting turtle boudin over duck-egg risotto with sherry sauce piquant, frog leg-and-alligator gumbo with potato salad or slate-blackened redfish with shrimp dirty rice. $$$ L (F), D (Tu-Su). www.sac-a-laitrestaurant.com. 1051 Annunciation St., 504.324.3658. Map 3, B7 SEAWORTHY—Seafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a stellar wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY— Deli. The St.

James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Br (Su). www. toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE— Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell.

Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’ boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANGELINE—Southern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the country ham-wrapped rabbit leg. $$$ D (W-Su); Br (FSu). www.angelinenola.com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S— Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S— Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in

1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

“Shrimp Arnaud,” “Oysters Bienville” and “Café Brûlot” are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); jazz brunch (Su). www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA— American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE— Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S— Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S— Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Jake Shapiro serves up longpopular classics, such as broiled black drum with rosemary-mustard crust and ginger-apple glaze.

Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ D (nightly); jazz brunch (F-Su). www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE— Louisiana. Located in a gorgeous

French Quarter courtyard and carriage house that was once home to Alice Heine, America’s first Princess of Monaco, this is the perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle, satsuma-pepper glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L (W-F), D (W-Su), Br (Sa-Su). A quick-service offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 412-8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ BEIGNET— Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and

delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. $ B, L, D (daily).

Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www. cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554 Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE— Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE— Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant

provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Carib-

DINING

bean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as jerk chicken and plantain dumplings. $$ D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). www.caneandtablenola.com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY— Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (daily). centralgrocery.com/. 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 CLOVER GRILL— American. The prospect of big juicy

burgers, overstuffed omelets and a cheeky version of retro 1950s ambiance draws all walks of life to this Bourbon Street institution at all hours. The theatrics on both sides of the counter are often worthy of a Fellini film. $ Open 24h. www.clovergrill.com.

900 Bourbon St., 504.598.1010. Map 3, H4 COURT OF TWO SISTERS— Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu.

Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. $$ D (nightly). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE— Louisiana. The

French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the baby back ribs, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and fresh grilled redfish with soft-shell crab. Live jazz nightly (no cover). $$ L, D (daily). www.crescentcitybrewhouse. com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5 CURIO—American. Curious what “American cuisine

Locally Inspired, Nationally Recognized Palace Cafe

with Creole soul” tastes like? Think grit tots with roasted red pepper coulis, black-eyed pea-andduck gumbo, “pastrami shrimp” Reubens and grilled salmon with farro-heirloom tomato salad. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.curionola.com.

301 Royal St., 504.717.4198. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE— Steaks. An

Bourbon House

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces—try the barbecue rib-eye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters. Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN— Steaks. A stunning steak-

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse

house and butcher shop with superior quality dryaged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list, though handsome remodel of the historic space is alone worth a visit. $$$ L (F-Su), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 EL LIBRE— Cuban. Of course there are rum-based

cocktails and sturdy-sweet coffee on the menu at this tiny Cuban café, but there’s also day-long food in the guise of pressed sandwiches. The signature “Cubano” is best capped off with “Drunken Tres Leches Cake” for dessert. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.ellibrenola.com. 508 Dumaine St., 504.309.2699. Map 3, H5

Tableau

www.FrenchQuarter-Dining.com

504.274.1958

FAUBOURG BISTRO— Eclectic. Tucked into the 700

Club bar, Faubourg rocks a menu of hearty pub w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

fare: wedge salads; wings topped with peanut sauce, bacon and jelly; red beans-and-rice burgers; mac-and-cheese skillets. Open until 2 am; delivery until midnight. $ L, D (daily). www.faubourgbistro. com. 700 Burgundy St., 504.439.5842. Map 3, G3 FRENCH TRUCK COFFEE— Coffee. Named for the

vintage Citroën vehicles it uses for deliveries to local restaurants and grocers, French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first microroster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. $ Open daily. www.frenchtruckcoffee.com. 221 Chartres St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, F4; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, A7; 4536 Dryades St., 504.298.1115. Map 1, D4 GALATOIRE’S— Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GALATOIRE’S 33 BAR & STEAK— Steaks. This

modern-day steakhouse adds a new chapter to Galatoire’s century-old story. Craft cocktails and USDA prime cuts are the focus, along with beef Wellington, lobster Thermidor and classic sides.

The handsome space also features an elegantly appointed bar and private dining rooms. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www.galatoires33barandsteak.com. 215 Bourbon St., 504.335.3932. Map 3, E4 GREEN GODDESS— Eclectic. Chef Paul Artigues

creates big-flavored, adventurous dishes in the tiny kitchen of this intimate Exchange Alley gem.

Possibly the only place in town you’ll find beet hummus and truffle grits sharing menu space with wild-boar meatloaf and decadent bacon sundaes. $ L, D (W-Su). www.greengoddessrestaurant.com.

307 Exchange Pl., 504.301.3347. Map 3, E4 GUMBO SHOP— Creole. Housed in a circa-1794

building, the Gumbo Shop features traditional and contemporary Creole cuisine, including several types of gumbos, étouffée, jambalaya and other Louisiana favorites. A variety of fresh fish, from amberjack to tuna, is offered, as are more than 30 wines by the glass. $ L, D (daily). www.gumboshop. com. 630 St. Peter St., 504.525.1486. Map 3, G4 GW FINS— Seafood. Owners Gary Wollerman and

chef Tenney Flynn have taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ— American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet, Fats Domino’s autographed piano top and Madonna’s G-string. Live music four nights a week. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 ITALIAN BARREL— Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A full24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

Contemporary Coastal Cuisine 701 S. Peters St. 504-302-7496 www.briquette-nola.com

Now Serving Lunch

DINING

bodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN— Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS— Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH— Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular dining spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL— American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LATITUDE 29— Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru

Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s seriously cool, newschool tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Island flourishes, brilliant bartenders and chefs with a strong local following make this one a winner. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs and Hawaiian Cuban sandwiches. $$ (L, D) Tu-Su. www.latitude29nola.com. 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5 MEAUXBAR— French. French bistro standards

tweaked with a thoughtful, modern hand.

Signature dishes include mussels nestled in a flavor-packed harissa broth and crowned with crisp hand-cut fries. $$ L (F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.meauxbar.com. 942 N. Rampart St., 504.569.9979. Map 3, H3 MORTON’S— Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO— Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

Enjoy an afternoon drink in our courtyard.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Su). www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE— Creole. Overlooking

Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Erik Venéy’s w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfish-andgoat cheese crepes, pecan-crusted puppy drum and pain perdu bread pudding. $$ L, D (daiy), Br (Sa-Su). www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE— Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY— Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉ—Vietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA— American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro recently received a full makeover to mark its 25th anniversary. The new small plates-focused menu is perfect for table-sampling its 40-plus dishes. Standouts include the hot frog legs, stuffed chicken wings with peanut sauce and smoked crab cheesecake boulettes. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerils. com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP— Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery, diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com.

132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ— Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL— Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE— Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated; try the turtle soup, shrimp remoulade or oysters from the raw bar. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION— Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed (Limoges china, purse stools), while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations 26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 ROYAL HOUSE OYSTER BAR— Seafood. Oysters are

the star attraction at this Royal Street restaurant— from fresh-shucked to char-broiled, Royale to Rockefeller. Not a bivalve fan? You’ll find plenty of other fresh seafood options, along with sandwiches. $$ B (F-Su), L, D (daily). www.royalhouserestaurant.com.

441 Royal St., 504.528.2601. Map 3, F3

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away

SOBOU— Contemporary. The focus at this “south of

Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B (daily), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 SYLVAIN— Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU— Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); Br (SaSu). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 TRINITY— Louisiana. The menu here pays homage

to the “trinity” of flavors, elements and techniques in New Orleans cuisine. Hush puppies get richness from duck fat, while the cucumber salad refreshes with crisp apples and pairs perfectly with the citrusy seared snapper. $$$ D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). www.trinityrestaurantneworleans.com. 1117 Decatur St., 504.325.5789. Map 3, I5 TUJAGUE’S— Creole. Open since 1856, Tujague’s

(“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. $$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.tujaguesrestaurant. com. 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ATCHAFALAYA— Creole. Look for the giant cast-iron

skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and menu standouts such as free-form crab ravioli and pan-seared Gulf fish with twice-cooked fingerlings and Vidalia onion beurre blanc. $$$ D (nightly); brunch (Th-M). www.atchafalayarestaurant.com.

901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4 COMMANDER’S PALACE— Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE— French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Ital-

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DINING

ian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes and decadent chocolate beignets making repeat appearances. $$$ D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 EMERIL’S DELMONICO— Creole. Located on the St.

Charles streetcar line, this elegant circa-1895 restaurant now serves chef Emeril Lagasse’s modern takes on Creole classics. Start with the house-made charcuterie, before moving on to dry-aged steaks, shrimp Bordelaise or reinvented drum meunière. $$$ D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937. Map 1, D3 POKE LOA— Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-

you-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes (edamame, fish roe, etc.). $ L, D (daily) www.eatpokeloa.com. 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4 ROOT/SQUARE ROOT— Contemporary. Two hip

restaurants in one. Upstairs the focus is on chef Phillip Lopez’s contemporary twists on culinary standards and creative charcuterie. Downstairs centers around 16 seats flanking an open kitchen and Lopez’s multi-course tasting menu (online reservations only). $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.squarerootnola. com. 1800 Magazine St., 504.309.7800. Map 1, D4 SUCRÉ— Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti. St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2 TURKEY AND THE WOLF— Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L (WM). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL— Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/

bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB— Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crabmeat beignets, clams and chorizo), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 THE JOINT— Barbecue. This funky Bywater fave

is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. Featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.alwayssmokin.com. 701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

PALADAR 511— Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au naturel. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PIZZA DELICIOUS— Italian. This pop-up pizzeria

grew so popular that it now has its own brickand-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.pizzadelicious.com. 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION— Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET— Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3 THREE MUSES— Eclectic. This Frenchmen Street

hot spot offers a clubby vibe, live music, smart cocktails and amazing eats. Raves are drawn for the menu’s variety and chef Daniel Esses’ stellar preparations of small plate-portioned lamb sliders, feta fries and a stunning rendition of braised pork belly atop a crisp scallion pancake. $ D (nightly). www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ— Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 DOOKY CHASE— Creole. One of the oldest African-

American restaurants in the nation. Chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” has built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as her seemingly simple red beans and rice, steaming gumbo and crispy-yet-tender fried chicken. $$ L (Tu-F), D (F). www.dookychaserestaurant.com.

2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3 MOPHO— Vietnamese. Chef Mike Gulotta rocks

modern Vietnamese-inspired dishes at his naughty-named restaurant near the Canal streetcar line. The sweet-and-spicy chicken wings and pepper jelly-glazed clams are must-haves. $$ L, D (daily). www.mophonola.com. 514 City Park Ave., 504.482.6845. Map 1, D2 PARKWAY BAKERY & TAVERN— Louisiana. The menu

here is long but simple: po’ boys and more po’ boys. They come as “large” (translation: gargantuan) or “small” (large). Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp, ham, turkey, catfish, meatballs and, of course, alligator sausage— and that’s just the top of the list. $ L, D (W-M). www.parkwaypoorboys.com. 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

RALPH’S ON THE PARK— Louisiana. Veteran restau-

rateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.ralphsonthepark. com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

1000 FIGS— Mediterranean. This popular Mid-City

spot is the brick-and-mortar space of the team behind the equally popular Fat Falafel food truck.

Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj and lamb. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.1000figs.com. 3141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY— Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

(Toups’ South) is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com.

845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown APOLLINE— Louisiana. In this renovated shotgun

house, contemporary twists on French/Creole cuisine make diners feel right at home. Char-broiled oysters with bacon marmalade, cold-smoked pork chops, seared scallops with maque choux and pork plank; at brunch try the confit duck with potato hash, duck cracklin and Hollandaise. $$$ Brunch, D (Tu-Su). www.apollinerestaurant.com. 4729 Magazine St., 504.894.8881. Map 1, D4

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

AVO— Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1 and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE— Southern. Looking for a great off-the-

beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathaniel Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’ boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (M-Sa), Br (Su). www.boucherie-nola.com.

1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 BRIGTSEN’S— Creole. A protegé of Paul Prudhom-

me, chef Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.brigtsens.com. 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3 CAMELLIA GRILL— American. Say burger in New Or-

leans, and Camellia Grill instantly comes to mind.

Why? Juicy cheeseburgers, crispy fries and savory chili at one of the most coveted lunch (and dinner) counters in the city—that’s why. $ B, L, D (daily).

626 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.309.2679. Map 1, C3; 540 Chartres St., 504.522.1800. Map 3, G4 CARROLLTON MARKET— Louisiana. Chef Jason mar-

ket-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ D (Tu-Sa), Br (Th-Su). www.carrolltonmarket.com.

8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 3, C3 CAVAN—Seafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

Richard’s modern Southern cuisine. Start with the boudin tater tots and salmon poke tacos before devouring the chicken fried rabbit or turtle carbanara with garfish tasso. $$ D (nightly); Br (F-Su). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DTB— Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays

homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine.

Think gumbo with crab fat rice and crispy duck confit with charred cabbage and sweet potatoes. $$ D (M-Sa); brunch (F-M). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 KENTON’S—American. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon).

Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY— French. An intimate French

bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). www.lapetitegrocery.com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 LA THAI UPTOWN— Thai. Resembling a swank Thai

palace, this gorgeous space is the perfect setting for modern and traditional Thai food. Do not miss the stuffed chicken wings, seafood curry and the city’s best hot-and-sour soup. $$ L (Th-F), D (Tu-Su). www.lathaiuptown.com. 4938 Prytania St., 504.899.8886. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE— Italian. A New Orleans land-

mark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.pascalsmanale.com. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 PATOIS— Louisiana. Chef Aaron Burgau has earned

all of the praise heaped on him in recent years as a young man “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a cool neighborhood bar scene. $$$ L (F), D (W-Sa); Br (Su). www.patoisnola. com. 6078 Laurel St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4 SAFFRON NOLA— Indian. Chic Indian fare with

contemporary flare. Top picks include the pakoda choti, roti sathi and any of the crispy dosa on the brunch menu. $$ D (Tu-Sa); Br (Su). www.saffronnola.com. 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4 TAL’S HUMMUS— Mediterranean. Soft, spongy pita

fresh from the oven is a great vehicle for this Israeli restaurant’s creamy hummus, while the tendercrunchy falafel is extra delicious dragged through silky sesame tahini and beef kabobs are cooled by yogurt sauce. The baklava is sticky, nutty, decadence. $ L, D (daily). www.ordertalsonline.com.

4800 Magazine St., 504.267.7357. Map 1, D4 UPPERLINE— Creole. You’ll see wizards painted on

the exterior and an eclectic art collection inside, both products of the fully original character of owner JoAnn Clevenger, who invented the must-try fried green tomatoes with remoulade. Don’t miss the oysters St. Claude. $$ D (W-Su). www.upperline. com. 1413 Upperline St., 504.891.9822. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

Shopping

New Year, Renewed You

Magazine, the Book

Slough off 2017 and start afresh with a day of indulgence at one of the city’s many spas.

The elegant Waldorf Astoria Spa (p. 34, shown) helps couples ease into 2018 with a dual massage that includes a bottle of champagne and chocolate truffles, as well as with its Take It Easy In the Big Easy package, which couples facials with reflexology. Woodhouse Day Spa (p. 34) caters to incoming snowbirds with a detoxifying Warm Spiced Mud Wrap that enhances seaweed and peat with cinnamon and ginger, while the Spa at the RitzCarlton (p. 34) incorporates notes of absinthe, cypress, moss and vetiver in its spellbinding Voodoo Ritual.

Historian John Magill traces the backstory of The Incomparable Magazine Street in his new release from River Road Press, chronicling the evolution of the six-mile stretch from early plantation to modernday shopping mecca. Block-by-block Magill points out architecture of interest, significant sites and must-visit retailers.

Clothing

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

BILLY REID Award-winning designer

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. www.beckhamsbookshop.com/. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, in addition to a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings.

Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1627 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3

wheretraveler.com

Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part

boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5; 504.484.9830.

DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans

couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 FLEURTY GIRL Lauren Haydel has become a

mini mogul, thanks largely to her popular line of women’s T-shirts, which debuted in 2009. Today her designs celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St.,

HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, accessories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline.com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3310 Magazine St., 504.702.8009. Map 1, D4

JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 PERLIS Mudbug season lasts year-round at Perlis,

purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. In addition, Perlis carries such specialty items as Mardi Gras-hued rugby shirts. The place for classic seersucker suits. www.perlis.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.523.6681. Map 3, G5; 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661. Map 1, D4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The

MAGAZINE STREET is said to have gotten its moniker from an early warehouse near Decatur and Iberville; “almazén” or “magazin” is the Spanish word for warehouse.

30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

(LEFT) ©WALDORF ASTORIA SPA; (RIGHT) ©RIVER ROAD PRESS

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www. louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 30

Clothing........................................................................................................ 30 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 32 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 33 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 34 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 34 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 34 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 34 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 35 Shoes............................................................................................................... 36 Special Services...................................................................................... 36

stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 TUXEDOS TO GEAUX—Why rent a tux when you can

own one? This formal wear shop dresses men to the nines—complete with shirt, tie and cummerbund—for under $200. www.tuxedostogeaux.com.

3400 16th St., Metairie, 504.455.5393. Map 1, C2 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS— A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4

Gifts & Collectibles BOUTIQUE DU VAMPYRE—Searching for a set of

custom-made fangs? Look no further than the nation’s only vampire store, where you’ll also find leather coffin cases, silver bullet jewelry and temporary bite tattoos. www.feelthebite.com. 709 St. Ann St, 504.561.8267. Map 3, G4 BUNGALOWS— This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE— Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILES—Search-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS— At this shop, you’ll find

fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery— along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. https://shopforeverneworleans. com/. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4 GEM DE FRANCE— Where do French Quarter Franco-

philes go for authentic French Country table linens, shea-butter soaps and trés chic home accents? To Gem de France, naturally, where you’ll find plenty of Parisian imports to ooh-la-la over. www.gemdefrance.com. 729 Royal St., 504.571.6304. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY—This magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY— This eclectic gift shop features

toys and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. www. ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP— You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures.

New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.littletoyshopnola.com/. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 THE MASK GALLERY—Austrian crystals, hand-

tolled leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations. 841 Royal St., 504.523.6664. Map 3, F4 MASKARADE— A small shop offering one of the larg-

est selections of Venetian masks in the country, in addition to hundreds of handmade masks by local and international artists. www.themaskstore.com.

630 St. Ann St., 504.568.1018. Map 3, G4 MIETTE— Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 NOLA KIDS— This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME— It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4

SHOPPING

PLUM— This hip home and gift shop is devoted to

“cool stuff for stylish living,” much of which is created by local crafters. Handmade housewares, artful accents, jazzy jewelry: If it’s both fun and functional, you’ll likely find it here. www.plumneworleans.com.

1914 Magazine St., 504.897.3388. Map 1, D4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP— Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 SCRIPTURA— A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits AUNT SALLY’S PRALINE SHOP— Chances are you’ll

catch the sweet scent of Aunt Sally’s clear down the block. Created from Louisiana cane sugar and pecans, pralines are made fresh daily in the store’s kitchen. The shelves are also stocked with Crescent City souvenir items. www.auntsallys.com. 810 Decatur St., 504.524.3373. Map 3, H5; 750 St. Charles Ave., 504.522 .4456.

BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS— Crescent City

confectioner Cheryl Scripter has built a loyal following with her incredible truffle collections. Her Warehouse District location also offers fresh morning pastries, coffees and teas, along with delicious cakes, cookies, dipped fruits, toffees and handmade nonparelis. www.bittersweetconfections. com. 725 Magazine St., 504.523.2626. Map 3, C6 KEIFE & CO.— A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIE—Specializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.891.1026. Map 1, D4 LAURA’S CANDIES— Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 MARTIN WINE CELLAR— Wine Spectator has recog-

nized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4; 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504.896.7300. Map 1, C2 ROUSES— This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4; 4500 Tchoupitoulas w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 33

THE GUIDE

St., 504.896.7910.; 504.288.1600.; 400 N. Carrollton Ave, 504.488.2129.; 4001 General DeGaulle Drive, 504.361.5557.

SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERS—You can catch a sugar

buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). www.southerncandymakers. com. 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS— The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 WINE INSTITUTE NEW ORLEANS— In addition to

recreational wine classes, professional certification courses and private tasting sessions, this shop/ school offers fine vintages for sale, along with a tasting room featuring 120 wines for sampling. www.winoschool.com. 610 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.8000. Map 3, D6

Hats & Accessories FLEUR DE PARIS— You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS— The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2127 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER— The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK— Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.481.2525. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.388.6803. Map 1, D4

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN— A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 AVERY FINE PERFUMERY— This artisanal fragrance

”smell gallery” is one of only 18 in the world and the Italian-based InterTrade Europe group’s sole stand-alone, stateside location. Hard-to-find niche brands such as Blood Concept and Boadicea are featured. www.averyfineperfumeries.com. 527 St. Joseph St., 504.522.7102. Map 3, B6 FIFI MAHONY’S— In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ— Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH— Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 PLANET BEACH—This French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 SEPHORA— The local branch of the nation’s leading

cosmetics and perfume retailer offers more than 13,000 products from 200-plus brands, all of which can be tested on-site. www.sephora.com. 414 N. Peters St., 504.561.9889. Map 3, F5; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504.830.4567. Map 1, C2 THE SPA AT THE RITZ-CARLTON— This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA— Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., Level A. Map 3, D7 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA— This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA— The Mid-City branch

of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments, along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www. neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY—“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. https://www.facebook.com/akastellagray/. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 COUTELIER— Form and function combine at this

Riverbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are knifesharpening services, cookbooks and other kitchen

accessories. www.nolaknifeworks.com. 8239 Oak St., 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 THE GIVING TREE— Cartography fan? Navigate

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT— Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5525 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 LOOMED NOLA— Hand-woven cotton, linen and

silk in a range of colors forms the basis of the organic Turkish textiles found here. Scarves, robes, towels and bedcovers are among the offerings. www.loomed.co. 2727 Prytania St., Suite 13, 504.304.2047. Map 1, D4 NADINE BLAKE— Interiors maven Blake is redefining

the idea of French Quarter chic at her sleek décor boutique. Home furnishings and accessories with a contemporary twist are featured, along with creative gift items. www.nadineblake.com. 1036 Royal St., 504.529.4913. Map 3, H4 NOLA BOARDS—Add a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com.

519 Wilkinson St., 504.516.2601. Map 3, G4; 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 RICCA ARCHITECTURAL SALES—Accessible via

the Canal streetcar line, this Mid-City warehouse is packed with retro Southern splendor rescued from demolished buildings. Hard-to-find antique hardware, ornate mantles, stained-glass windows and an endless selection of doors merely hint at the offerings. www.riccasarchitectural.com. 5511 N. Solomon St., 504.488.5524. Map 1, D2 ROUX ROYALE— This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. https://shoprouxroyale.com/. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 SPRUCE— Does your space need a spruce up? Start

by stopping in at this eco-conscious interiors studio. Funky fabrics, one-of-a-kind wallpaper and design consultation services are offered. www.sprucenola.com. 2043 Magazine St., 504.265.0946. Map 1, D4

Jewelry ART & EYES— The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. artandeyesneworleansla.com/. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS— French Quarter cast iron, St.

Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs-de-lis are prominent, with more than 75 different designs featured. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St.,

SHOPPING

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• Clocks • Puzzles • Office

Toys • Boxes • Games •

Gizmos • Gadgets • Gifts of Wood

504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO— Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 JOSE BALLI— Mardi Gras mask rings, Dixie beer-

cap pendants, beignet earrings, shotgun house cufflinks: local treasures are the trademark of jeweler Balli. Coastal, Cajun and religious motifs are also prominent in his popular gold and silver designs. www.joseballi.com. 621 Chartres St., 504.522.1770. Map 3, G4 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRY—Along with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE— Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett has gar-

nered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.krewe. com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, H4 NO-WM_140400_IdeaFactory.indd 1

3/10/14 11:24:10 AM MARION CAGE— “Jewelry is a form of architecture,

and the body is its landscape” is the mantra of Marion Cage McCollam, whose elegant, minimalist creations reflect her industrial-design training.

Cool home accents and hardware are also featured. www.marioncage.com. 3807 Magazine St., 504.891.8848. Map 1, D4

Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

MIGNON FAGET— Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5

Papier Plume 842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

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PORTER LYONS—Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is

a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations and made the French Quarter her first choice for her first brick-andmortar space. www.porterlyons.com. 631 Toulouse St., 800.585.0348. Map 3, G5

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TIFFANY & CO.— Founded in 1837 as “a stationery

and fancy goods emporium,” Tiffany’s has since become synonymous with top-of-the-line luxury jewelry, and famed worldwide for its signature blue boxes. www.tiffany.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 800.843.3269. Map 3, E5 WELLINGTON & COMPANY— This shop is largely

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devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and art deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, along with new designer lines. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

Malls/Major Retailers c

ADVERTISEMENT

GULFPORT PREMIUM OUTLETS— It may be an hour’s

drive, but a day trip to this popular outlet mall is well worth the investment for bargain hunters. The sprawling complex offers deep savings at more than 70 leading retailers, along with a food court to keep shoppers fueled and on the go. www. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 35

THE GUIDE

premiumoutlets.com. 10000 Factory Shops Blvd., Gulfport, Miss., 228.867.6101.

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER— A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2

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THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK— Located

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within walking distance of the CBD and French Quarter. www.riverwalkneworleans.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Place, 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE— Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace. com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

c

Shoes GOOD FEET— Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG—”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4

Up to 50% OFF!

SHOE BE DO— “New Orleans’ greatest addiction”

offers a large selection of high-fashion women’s shoes from around the globe. Get a step ahead with cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers. https://www.shoebedousa. com/. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services ELECTRIC LADYLAND— Looking for a lasting

souvenir? This popular tattoo parlor draws locals, tourists and visiting celebrities with its awardwinning artists and large selection of designs. electricladylandtattoo.com. 610 Frenchmen St., 504.947.8286. Map 3, J5 FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM— In addi-

tion to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. frenchquarterpostal.net/. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4

a b c

PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICES—Why bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4

36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

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THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques

An Abundance of Art

A Collective Bunch

Art lover? You’re in the right place at the right time. Prospect.4, the fourth iteration of the largest periodic international contemporary art exhibition in the U.S., continues throughout the month at venues citywide. From galleries and museums to parks and satellite spaces, P.4 features works by 70-plus artists from more than 25 countries. Must-sees include collages by Louis Armstrong at the Old U.S. Mint, the late Barkley L. Hendricks’ African-American portraiture at the New Orleans Museum of Art (shown) and video artist John Akomfrah’s documentary of jazz pioneer Buddy Bolden at the Ogden Museum. For a full lineup, visit prospectneworleans.org.

Fans of RHINO Contemporary Craft Co. (p.

41) won’t find the local art collective at the Shops at Canal Place as they have for the past 25 years. The gallery recently relocated to Magazine Street. In its place is the new Louisiana Crafts Guild (p. 41, shown), which features juried works from around the state and region.

Central Business/ Warehouse District ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5

(LEFT) ©MIKE SMITH/PROSPCET NEW ORLEANS; (RIGHT) ©DOUG BRANTLEY

BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary. com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY Home to the

cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery. com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to

the cutting-edge creations on its walls.

Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured. www. martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5

There’s a lot more going on this month.

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wheretraveler.com

NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASSWORKS AND PRINTMAKING STUDIO This working artists’

studio features free demonstrations by local master crafters in blown glass, printmaking and fine silver. Designs made in the studio are on display—and for sale—in the front showroom. www. neworleansglassworks.com. 727 Magazine St., 504.529.7277. Map 3, C6 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ preeminent

exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. stellajonesgal-

lery.com/. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY

The city’s most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery.com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4

FROM 1872 TO 1873, artist Edgar Degas lived with relatives at 2306 Esplanade Avenue, where he is believed to have first dabbled in Impressionism. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 37

THE GUIDE

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 37

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 37 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................40 Collectives.....................................................................................................41 Other Locations.......................................................................................41

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS— The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F4 BRASS MONKEY— This tiny storefront offers one

of the largest selections of Limoges boxes in the Quarter, as well as antique walking sticks and other collectible curios. 407 Royal St., 504.561.0688. Map 3, F4 CALLAN FINE ART— Specializing in fine European

paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery features museum-quality examples from the academic, Barbizon, impressionistic and post-impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY— Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here.

Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY— The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 CREASON’S FINE ART GALLERY— Here, artist-owner

Greg Creason’s vibrant “modern art with a traditional flair” shares wall space with with contemporary works by Darrell George, Tracy Jarmon, Mary Pat Wallen and others. www.creasonsfineart.com.

831 Chartres St., 504.304.4392. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY—Award-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP— Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th- and 19th-centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

FUNERAL GALLERY— Offbeat illustrations, macabre

assemblage dolls: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured. www.funeralgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.603.6038. Map 3, H4 GALLERY 2— Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE— Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 GALLERY RINARD— This contemporary gallery

features colorful originals and limited-edition serigraphs by artist-owner Matt Rinard, as well as Robert Guthrie’s watercolors and whimsical pet portraiture by Georg Williams. http://galleryrinard. com. 611 Royal St., 504.522.6536. Map 3, H4 HALL-BARNETT GALLERY— During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY— David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES— This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings, European porcelain and statuary. www.idamanheimantiques. com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JAMES H. COHEN & SONS— This fifth-generation,

family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. www.cohenantiques.com. 437 Royal St., 504.524.0802. Map 3, F4 JAMIE HAYES GALLERY— The colorful works of artist

and children’s book author Hayes have been said to capture “the true spirit of New Orleans,” and acquired by such famous collectors as Robin Williams and k.d. lang. Original paintings, prints and fun gift items are featured. www.jamiehayes.com.

617 Chartres St., 504.596.2344 ; Map 3, G4 KAKO GALLERY— Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES— Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KEZIC GALLERY— Diego Lukezic is triple talented.

Perhaps best known for his popular “Tango Dog”

series, the local artist also creates New Orleans architectural images using the pseudonym “Martin Luke” and 4-D florals as “Kezic.” www.kezic.com.

343 Royal St., 504.298.1096. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD.— This fine art gallery deals in

international oil paintings from the 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY— Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS— An antique shop specializing in objects

for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES— This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY— This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MICHALOPOULOS— The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MOSS ANTIQUES— Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com.

411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS— Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. www.neworleanssilversmiths. com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 OSTERHOLD BOUDREAUX GALLERY & STUDIO—

Artist Jared Osterhold’s early work on Mardi Gras floats is reflected in his vibrant paintings that capture the city’s colorful Carnival culture, architecture, music and voodoo lore. Originals, giclées and prints are offered. www.artgallerynola.com. 427 Royal St., 504.975.2423. Map 3, F4 PHOTO WORKS— This gallery showcases the work of

photographer Louis Sahuc, known for his dramatic shots of the city, which have been called “the quintessential images of New Orleans.” Sahuc specializes in black-and-white, but also creates vivid color prints. www.photoworksneworleans.com. 521 St. Ann St., 504.593.9090. Map 3, G5 RODRIGUE STUDIO— This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue

THE GUIDE

Antiques De Provence, llc Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4

French intérieurs & JArDins

TANNER GALLERIES & STUDIO— Home to local

artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.”

Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329— A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs,

this hip shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Vintage sunglasses, French-, Shag- and fashion-inspired posters, plus vintage barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART— This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec.

Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

Magazine Street & Uptown

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

ALEX BEARD STUDIO— This gallery features

the works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by Mick Jagger and other collectors. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 AS YOU LIKE IT SILVER SHOP— This shop stocks silver

flatware in hundreds of active and inactive patterns to complete an existing set or begin a new one.

Browse among tea services, goblets and more. www.asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. 3033 Magazine St., 504.897.6915. Map 1, D4

623 royAL street

French quArter

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

COLE PRATT GALLERY— One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 FRENCHY GALLERY— Art of the moment takes on

new meaning in the hands of Randy Leo Frechette, who captures moments on canvas as they unfold.

From music fests to Carnival parades, you’ll find the artist fast at work among the crowds. www.frenchylive.com. 8314 Oak St., 504.861.7595. Map 1, C3 NEW ORLEANS PHOTO ALLIANCE— This photogra-

phy collective strives to stimulate “artistic growth while preserving the rich and diverse photographic culture of New Orleans and the southern region” through rotating monthly exhibits. www. neworleansphotoalliance.org. 1111 Mary St., 504.513.8030. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY—Step into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY— Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. terranceosborne.com/. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

new orLeAns

6 17 B i e n v i l l e S t r e e t

New Orleans

Mon–Thur: 10–6 | Fri–Sat: 10–9 | Sun 11–6 michalopoulos .com

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O— This innovative de-

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of designers. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2111. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES— Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP— Looking for

undiscovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works—oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks—by dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Place, 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS— This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ CO-OP— This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 LA GUILD—This showcase of juried craft artisans

from around the state and region features works in a wide range of media, from glass and wood to metal and clay. www.louisianacrafts.org.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.592.7633. Map 3, E5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO.— The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. 2028 Magazine St., 504.523.7945. Map 1, D4

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO— ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey, Harry Shearer and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net. 3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKET—This after-dark art mart

takes place in a converted auto body shop (aka the Art Garage). From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps to folk art and photography, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares, Th-Sa, 8 pm-1 am. www.frenchmenartmarket.com. 2231 St. Claude Ave., 504.717.0750. Map 3, J5 ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO— Located in historic

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 41

THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Hop on the Beer Bus

Crescent City Classic

Sure you can drink in the streets of New Orleans, but when imbibing it’s best to let someone else do the driving—hence, the growing number of beer-focused bus tours around town. Over the past few years Crescent City craft brewing has seen a dramatic upswing, with more than a dozen breweries currently in operation. To help visitors tap into the local suds scene, the New Orleans Brews Cruise (p. 46), NOLA Brew Bus (nolabrewbus. com) and New Orleans Brewery Tour (premiumtoursandtransportation.com) have all hit the road. Though they differ slightly, each offers at least three brewery stops with free samples at each. And, yes … you can get a go-cup.

In a city of memorable moments, a late night at the Maple Leaf (p. 49) is one you won’t soon forget. Small, dim-lit and sweatsoaked, the cramped club tops many a New Orleans bucket list. Tuesdays are the big todo, with the Grammy-winning Rebirth Brass Band taking the stage at 11 pm and going way into the wee hours.

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Admission includes a ticket for the Entergy Giant Screen Theater. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-5 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM Located in the circa-1860 U.S. Custom

House, this ranks as the nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninsti-

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

45,000 sq. ft. and state-of-the-art technology. The space plays host to free fan fests during New Orleans Saints home games wheretraveler.com AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than and numerous concerts throughout the 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon year. www.champions-square.com. 1500 Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. Poydras St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2 $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. A CINEBARRE CANAL PLACE 9 This state-of-the-art free shuttle departs from St. Charles streetcar stop movie theater offers nine separate screens, along 36. Open Tu-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su, 10 am-5 pm. with in-seat dining from its in-house café and bar. www.auduboninstitute.org. 6500 Magazine St., www.thetheatres.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush the dead” act as windows on the past, offering incanopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, sight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number of her works there. Many are located in high-crime CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or day or night. climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEM streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront ETERYJust down the river from where Andrew promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter to Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers jogging his name is the battlefield where he fought the last and biking paths and picture-perfect picnic areas. battle of the War of 1812. History buffs can check www.crescentparknola.org. Map 3, J6 out the visitor center, listen to daily ranger talks, FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market explore Chalmette National Cemetery or relax dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served under the park’s live oaks. https://www.nps.gov/ as a native American trading post. Along with jela/chalmette-battlefield.htm. 8606 W St Bernard homegrown specialties, the market also features a Hwy., 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3 number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market CHAMPIONS SQUAREThis open-air venue, adjamerchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market cent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts Place, 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 tute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

BATTLE OF NEW ORLEANS buffs will find the final conflict in the War of 1812 still being played out at Chalmette Battlefield Jan. 6, during its annual re-enactment.

42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

(LEFT) ©NOLA BREW BUS; (RIGHT) ©CHERYL GERBER/NEWORLEANSONLINE.COM

Attractions & Landmarks

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 61-63.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................42 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................45 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 46 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 48 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 48

HARRAH’S CASINO— The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleansthemed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE— The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street Map 3, G5

Open Tuesday through Saturday 10 am - 4 pm by Admission

MARDI GRAS WORLD— It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDES-BENZ SUPERDOME— The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS—

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3

Bubbles, Bourbon & Wine

Amazing Grapes

Wine Tasting, Auction & Creole Cuisine

NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK— This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.888.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISIANA GENERAL STORE— Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.208.5320. Map 3, F5 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

Friday, March 16, 2018

820 St. Louis Street • New Orleans, LA Tickets available online at 501auctions.com/amazinggrapes/tickets or call (504) 274-0746

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

OLD URSULINE CONVENT— Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-F, 10 am-4 pm; Sa, 9 am-3 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral. org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER— Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH— Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL— Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. www. stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 WOLDENBERG PARK— This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES— Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CELEBRATION TOURS— This company provides

intimate group tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and area cemeteries, along with Hurricane Katrina recovery excursions and private outings.

Tours average 2.5 to three hours; rates vary. www. celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SEGWAY TOURS— Why walk when you can

glide? Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. Private excursions are also available. www.citysegwaytours.com. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING— This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS— These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered, along with customized bike tours. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 45

THE GUIDE

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER— Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 DESTINATION KITCHEN—These deliciously fun tours

provide a real taste of New Orleans. A variety of culinary and cocktail excursions are offered, along with French Quarter and Garden District walking tours. Custom outings are also available. www. destination-kitchen.com. 885.353.6634.

DRINK & LEARN— Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280.

FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS— All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$20. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 GRAY LINE TOURS— Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2.25 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs.

Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5/7.25 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs.

Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs. Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour –5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com.

400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS— Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am and 1:15 pm from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.).

Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 and

7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www. hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

NEW ORLEANS BREWS CRUISE— Get a taste of the

local craft-beer scene with a tour of area breweries.

Learn about the brewing process while sampling three to five varieties at each stop. City breweries are spotlighted Fri at 6 pm and Sa-Su 2 pm; 46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

Northshore brewery tours are also offered. Great for groups or corporate outings; private and customized excursions are also available. www. neworleansbrewscruise.com. 504.517.4671.

SAVE OUR CEMETERIES— Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am and 1 pm from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am, 11:30 am and Su at 10 am from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under. Reservations recommended. www. saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ— The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR— Free

guided daily tours, 9 am-4 pm, except major holidays. www.tabasco.com. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS— These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from701 Royal St.; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

Museums & Exhibits CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM— Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $10 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER— The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also plays host to performances. $10; $8 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www. cacno.org. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 DEGAS HOUSE— The home where Edgar Degas lived

during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works. Two-hour tours of the 1852 property, conducted by the artist’s great-grandniece, are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:45 pm, and by appointment. $29. Reservations required. www.degashouse.com. 2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2 GALLIER HOUSE— The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4 GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM— Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish

gowns, costumes, and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 26 Mardi Gras balls. Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours (nightly, 6-10 pm). www.arnauds. com/about/mardi-gras-museum. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE— Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-3 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION— This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS— Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: “The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History.”

1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St.)–Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors/active military, children under 6 free. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St.)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Free. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave.)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint. Presbytère (Jackson Square)–Continuing: “Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana” and “Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond.”For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM— This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $27 adults, $23.50 seniors, $17.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries” and “Final Mission” an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART— One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings. The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-12, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open

THE GUIDE

M-F, 10 am-6 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2

famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4

NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM— This former

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB— This upscale gentlemen’s

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain.

Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org.

514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART— The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free).

Open Fri-W 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-8 pm for Ogden After Hours. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM—

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10.50; students/ seniors, $5.25; children under 12, free. Open W-M, 11 am-5:30 pm. www.southernfood.org. 1504 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3

Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75— Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 COOP’S PLACE— Coop’s is a local mix of billiards,

tattoos, a great jukebox and some ambitious, delicious bar cuisine, all in a lively, no-kids-allowed atmosphere. www.coopsplace.net. 1109 Decatur St., 504.525.9053. Map 3, I5 EFFERVESCENCE—This bubbly spot features 90-plus

bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from grilled octopus to caviar and potato chips. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 HERMES BAR— This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN— Named after a Tennessee Williams play—

the author once stayed here—this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1453. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP— This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 PAT O’BRIEN’S— Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the 48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 SAZERAC BAR— Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL— This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. Steamy windows face the nightlife bustle of Frenchmen Street and the benches outside make ideal perches for people-watching. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BLUE NILE— This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CHICKIE WAH WAH— This hot venue keeps the

Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 844.244.2543. Map 1, D3 D.B.A.— This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE— An elegant escape

inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 HOUSE OF BLUES— The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 HOWLIN’ WOLF— This locally owned and operated

club features low cover charges and low attitude.

Acts include both local favorites and big names; the music ranges from punk to straight-ahead rock. www.thehowlinwolf.com. 907 S. Peters St., 504.529.5844. Map 3, C7 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE—This stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4 LITTLE GEM SALOON— This long-neglected jazz

landmark has received a new lease on life, and is

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

once again a player on the city’s live-music scene.

The recently renovated supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAPLE LEAF— A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 ONE EYED JACKS— Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-

burlesque: this French Quarter swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. www.oneeyedjacks.net. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4 PALM COURT JAZZ CAFÉ— This excellent venue

for traditional live jazz is a favorite of locals in the know and well-informed visitors. Creole dining is also featured. www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com. 1204 Decatur St., 504.525.0200. Map 3, I5 PRESERVATION HALL— Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS— One of downtown’s

hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. www.republicnola.com. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6 ROCK ’N’ BOWL— A legendary local favorite now in

7 A.M. UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. Highly recommended, and worth the cab ride. www.rockandbowl.com. 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700. Map 1, D3 SNUG HARBOR— An elegant, intimate mainstay of

Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT— This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN— Swing back to a bygone

We have DIRECTV NFL Sunday Ticket Riverside Dining SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER

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era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYS—This hip venue in the über-hip Ace

Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3 THREE MUSES— This hip venue offers a veritable

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nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5

Serving breakfast daily • Weekend Brunch

TIPITINA’S— The legendary Tip’s offers an eclectic,

Gourmet Burgers, Wings, Gourmet Pizzas, Salads & Po-Boys

504-247-9265 • www.poppystimeoutsportsbar.com

always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 49

THE GUIDE

Navigate Give It a Spin

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, replete with a new 35-gate terminal, due to open in 2018.

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

©ST. TAMMANY PARISH TOURISM COMMISSION

With more than 100 miles of designated paths (including the Lafitte Greenway, which runs from the French Quarter to Mid-City), New Orleans ranks among the top cities in the U.S. for urban biking. More a nature lover than city cyclist? Grab a twowheel rental and explore the Tammany Trace just across Lake Pontchartrain, which spans 31 miles through five Northshore (p.

51) communities, connecting Covington, Abita Springs, Mandeville, Lacombe and Slidell. Recently inducted into the national Rail-Trail Hall of Fame, the paved hike and bike path follows the now-defunct Illinois Central Railroad corridor, winding through piney woods and marshy bayous. The Trace offers plenty of shade, 31 bridges, covered pavilions, restroom access and close encounters with local wildlife. For maps, suggested stops and bicycle rental info, visit tammanytrace.org.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index General Information........................................................................... 50 Nearby Destinations............................................................................51 Cajun Country...........................................................................................51 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 51 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 51 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................51 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................51 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 51 Transportation ....................................................................................... 50

CENTRAL CITY—This once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER— The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN— Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW— Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

TAXICABS— Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING— The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods ALGIERS— Located directly across the Mississippi

River from the French Quarter and accessible via a short ferry ride, this architecturally rich neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Immaculately preserved Greek Revival, Italianate and Victorian homes impart the feel of a 19th-century small town. Map 3, H8 BYWATER— A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters, a number of popular eateries and a growing art scene. The riverfront Crescent Park runs from Bywater to the French Quarter. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT (CBD)— The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residential shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 LOWER 9TH WARD— Nearly wiped off the map

by Hurricane Katrina, this resilient community continues to rebuild and repopulate. Highlights include actor Brad Pitt’s Make Right Foundation development and the House of Dance and Feathers. Map 1, F3 MARIGNY (FAUBOURG MARIGNY)— Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MID-CITY— Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND— Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ (FAUBOURG TREMÉ)— The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE DISTRICT— This “Southern SoHo”

adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts.

Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK— A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of

the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY— Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH— Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE— Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA— Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time. www.houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

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magazine street Stretching Six mileS parallel to the mississippi river from canal Street to Audubon Park and the zoo, magazine Street slices through many different new Orleans neighborhoods. the central Business District (cBD) and Warehouse Arts District, the irish channel, as well as the lower garden District, garden District proper and Uptown—all are inter sected by magazine. Along the way, you can find some of the city’s best clothing boutiques for children, women and men plus galleries, antique stores, restaurants, cafes, gourmet shops and more.

Historic neigHborHoods

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Between parts of magazine Street and St. charles Avenue lies the garden District and Uptown neighborhoods, perhaps the grandest of new Orleans’ neighborhoods. the garden District is famous for its stately greek revival, gothic and Queen Anne-style homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. tours of the area are available.

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Products & services: Notary Public Copies, Fax & Scan

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We shiP Wine!

FedEx, DHL, & USPS Shipping Mon-Fri 9 am – 6 pm; Sat 10 am – 4 pm; Sun Closed

4532 Magazine St, NOLA 70115

antieaugallery.com • (504) 510-4148

3436 Magazine st. | 504.899.5415 5

ART & EY&S

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INDY EYEWEAR

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3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494 artandeyesnola.com

Serving bottomless mimosa/bloody mary brunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday www.apollinerestaurant.com • (504) 894-8881

Visit this unique shopping mecca then enjoy coffee, a snack or a delicious meal. A variety of fine and casual restaurants, bistros, oyster bars, poor-boy sandwich shops, gourmet chocolates and fine sweets, and sno-ball stands make for culinary adventure!

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Rethinking River Road In 1971 the newly formed River Road Historical Society set out to restore longneglected Destrehan Plantation, turning a crumbling eyesore into a shining example of civic pride, and jumpstarting a new era of reconstruction along the historic highway. Nearly a half century later, Destrehan is once again part of a River Road revival, joining other area plantations, such as Laura and Whitney, in embracing the once-unspoken subject of slavery. At one time counting more than 200 enslaved workers, Destrehan was the site of an 1811 tribunal to determine punishment in the largest slave revolt in American history. But it also served as a home colony for the Freeman’s Bureau, housing more than 700 newly freed slaves by 1866. Think there’s nothing new to learn in old plantation country? Think again.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION , decked out with fresh fruit and live garland, celebrates the holiday season with its 42nd annual Christmas Bonfire Party Dec. 2.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

©DESTREHAN PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 58 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 58 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 59 Dining........................................................................................................... 60

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION— Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION— Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS— Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION— Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION— One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION— This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION— “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION— The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE— In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION— This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM— Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN— The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 60 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE— Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE— Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE— During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ— Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ— This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING— Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION— Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT— Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 2 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 3 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 4 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 t S New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 in e NC a v 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 Sp hA AveNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 NO c n i l o kOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 n R a Fr St RH Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 6 OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 7 Street Direction RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 French Quarter ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 Jazzy Passes WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 1 day - $3 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 3 day - $9 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 8 31 day - 55 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 Ride RTA buses

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Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

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and streetcars as much as you’d like.

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

FirstTimers

Romantics

Haunt Hunters

Track the trail of powdered sugar down Decatur Street, and you’ll find hordes of folks queued up outside (1) Café Du Monde.

Don’t let the long lines deter you; the trademark café au lait and fresh-fried beignets are worth the wait. With its numerous French Quarter properties, hundreds of rare holdings and free exhibits, the (2) Historic New Orleans Collection is the perfect place for a Vieux Carré primer. Its gift shop is one of the city’s best, offering a wealth of Crescent City collectibles you won’t find elsewhere. Home of the blow-you-away Hurricane cocktail, (3) Pat O’Brien’s is also known for its coppercovered pianos. Splurge on a souvenir glass, scope out the flaming fountain, then grab a seat in the piano bar.

With couples canoodling on benches and Andrew Jackson tipping his hat toward the former dwelling of his alleged lover, (1) Jackson Square has been wooing romantics since 1851.

Carriage tours line up in front, providing the perfect opportunity to snuggle together. If the world’s largest collection of live oaks doesn’t make you swoon, (2) City Park’s Enrique Alférez Sculpture Garden will. You’ll spot more works by the WPA-era artist throughout the 1,300-acre green space. A plantation country day trip takes visitors out of the city and into an entirely different era. (3) Houmas House is one of the most opulent and the setting for countless weddings. Roam the grounds with the roving peacocks, have a drink in the Turtle Bar, then tuck in for the night on site.

There are dozens of “cities of the dead” dotting the local landscape, but if you can visit only one, make it St. Louis No. 1 and make it with the nonprofit group (1) Save Our Cemeteries, which devotes 90 percent of ticket sales to tomb restoration and preservation.

The undead are catered to at (2) Boutique du Vampyre. Velvet capes and gothic jewelry keep the natty Nosferatu eternally fashionable; the living will want to invest in emergency stake kits. When Sidney Smith’s (3) Haunted History Tours debuted in 1994, there were only two ghost excursions in town.

Today there are nearly two dozen, but Smith’s are by far the most popular. Daytime outings are offered, but after-dark walks on the city’s supernatural side are all the eerier.

64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J A N UA R Y 2018

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UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS