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MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

NOVEMBER 2019

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/MIL AN

It’s showtime at dinner! TOP EVENTS AND PLACES TO BE

OUR PICK OF THE BEST SEASONAL TRENDS 米兰旅行免费指南

扫码使用体验米兰小程序

Milan November 2019 52

the guide

ENTERTAINMENT

24 SHOPPING

NEW OPENINGS

A restyling dedicated to the Baroque for the women’s store of Dolce & Gabbana, in via della Spiga. 46 DINING

The gastronomic tradition that has always distinguished Peck and the allure of a city that is on the up and up, both literally and figuratively, meet at Peck CityLife. 52 ENTERTAINMENT

The Auditorium with the Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano Giuseppe Verdi affirms its status as a temple of symphony music.

HOT DATES

MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/MIL AN

NOVEMBER 2019

It’s showtime at dinner! TOP EVENTS AND PLACES TO BE

OUR PICK OF THE BEST SEASONAL TRENDS

Contents

54 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

6 TOP IN TOWN

20 GIFT GUIDE

Discover the city, starting from its main landmark attractions.

Take advantage of your stay in Milan to discover the best seasonal trends.

8 HOT DATES

22 NEW OPENINGS

This month’s round-up of shows, art exhibitions and music.

Keep up-to-date with the latest luxury openings in the city.

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COVER IMAGE BY EL PORTEÑO PROHIBIDO PH © LORENZO SCACCINI

12 DANCING AMIDST MUSIC www.whereitalia.com/milan www.magzter.com Digital magazine store www.pressreader.com Digital magazines issuu.com/where-italia Digital magazines Follow us on Twitter @WhereMilan

40 THE BEST OF… Stroll through the Duomo district and its surroundings, and discover Brera, one of the most picturesque areas in Milan teeming with big-name brand boutiques and artisanal manufacturers.

59 ESSENTIALS

Information and tips to get around the city and to experience the best that Milan has to offer.

» MAP PAGE 62-63 Isola Chinatown & Porta San Siro Paolo Sarpi Nuova

CityLife

Sempione & Castello

Brera

VIA PORL E

LAK OF

2 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2019 VIA

Centrale Buenos Aires Lambrate Porta

Venezia

Fashion Quad Vercelli & San Babila Belfiore Duomo 5 Giornate Sant'Ambrogio 5 Vie Università degli Studi Porta Romana Navigli Tortona Lodi ZZA

Like us on facebook.com/WhereMilan

Two far-off lands become closer than ever thanks to the ‘Oriente MUDEC’ project, which documents the exchanges between Japan and Europe.

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THE WORLD OF LEONARDO DA VINCI Exhibition with new discoveries: codices, machines, paintings and drawings Milan, Piazza della Scala at the entrance of Galleria Audio guide in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish Open daily: 9:30 am-10:30 pm Info: 02.495.199.81 www.leonardo3.net

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GO VIA A S IA Dear Visitor, Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. PA D welcome to Italy! V IA I RE L V IA M O BR T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 . MO VIA NZANB A N O2019 is the year Nin T I which Italy will be overflowing info@whereitalia.com D E www.whereitalia.com/milan D ER PIAZZALE with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary V IANI GIUL LARGO E NO VIA PADR E R. NT NIZZA CO DESIO PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF A I V V IAda P of the death of Leonardo Vinci, the man who, ARPO ALLA GI Andrea Jarach P O L IC NZA VI A AB BA PIAZZA FUG V IA PIAZZALE VIA GRECO (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) more than any other,ISTRIA represents Italy throughout AT I Recommended by RANC PIAZZA MANAGING DIRECTOR V IA RA CASERTA cities including Milan, Florence CUF VIA DEL Andrea Jarach IA the world. Several V LA TO Daniele Misrachi VIA RRE R TA ARG A LT O N GE NIS IO VIA SLATAP E SAPublisher (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) DEI V VIA MO NT Aand V IA B O N I N Rome will host a series ofER special events. The full IA V IA RDO I HO Where ® V IA R MANAGING EDITOR program of Italian exhibitions and events honouring VI A I Alessandra Finzi T TI PR AM PO LIN P R IN E PIAZZA (redazione@whereitalia.com) V IA PIAZZApages of Where®. We Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the V MACIACHINI IA VIA FARINA GIO GRE USSO VA GOR V NN V IA R CONTRIBUTORS E R you to discover invite country that gave life to the person considered N IP O VI AIthe N E J ON L E UES M L Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, TAFloriana NO ARC VIA NO V I A over as one of history’s VIA BO LZA VIAGiudici, SEMERI di Maio, Elisabetta the world greatest thinkers. While visiting HE AJoy Lacanlale, R E S Italy LI IUN ITI R AC GH LAPO SI VIA C ISPO VIA V IA Lancini, CO N AI Fabio Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, L V V L V I I E I T A F IAL I G Iwhy V IA C E T you’ll AG RUC A RAN understand only Italy could given birth to Cthis man C IR E have LE LA N V IA whose Chiara Zaccarelli LI ZU V IA IÈ MA CES VI ER DEM VIA CC A RCH CO O ONT O NA GIR E PIAZZA VA V I facets L I O L A mind shaped creative the intellectual, social,E cultural, and political PIAZZA ICONOGRAPHY VI A PO M PE O A FRATELLI SPOTORNO V V VIA BRESSAN PA IA CARBONARI IA VIA Archivio Proedi Media, SIO RR CL G. L E fifteenth century. C Ufrom the of European life an indelible ITU AV STE K E PLeonardo made Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock VIA VI M LV I I I L C NO EZRZO AL O I N VIA E O I contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. V C SA IA S CARTOGRAPHY L LVA V IA U AU R A TO G V NI RE LI I City Map: ©ITOProedi Comunicazione 2019 CI O L E C A Lnow G I enigmatic Vthe P I A to look for O IA AllI Athat traces Vleft by the EOCR LL M E U C VIA ISO CRATE À G V I A remains is for us AN NE LARGO V IA T F.LLI LL VVAIA VIA Metro RAN ALSE I A S CERVIMap and Fast Trains Network Map CA DA RIO US C MIC N A I O A R visiting. If you O HEL Dmitry Goloub © ProediAComunicazione 2019, Leonardo. You’ll findPIAZZALE them in whatever Vpart of Italy you’re S IA G LE ED ANI ISS SEGRINO V IA E AN A Mario Camerini VI IM GEL PIAZZALE I S happen to find I O them, please share your comments, with your G VIA VI LAGOSTAV I A VIA A S IA VI A IA PA D MARKETING & ADVERTISING PIAZZA A V HOLOCAUST PO RE L RE TTO SO T B VIA L CA V DURANTE O MEMORIAL A . MO IA photo, on our social media. By the end of theNAyear, we’ d like SievaATCarolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, B ACIMITERO TA LE NTI NO LE G VIA WILDT Paola Zannoni BR RacheleL IRenna, VIA A ONUMENTALE I to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting! AN(advertising@whereitalia.com) PIE A PIAZZALE RE IANI OR Z LARGO PADR E R.IEGIUL N D VIA A LU NIZZA VI A PA ST LO N RI AN IG DESIO CO N FAthe big event. Milan has been appointed PE NGV StayREtuned IA O IA VI Afor ID RG ADMINISTRATION PA L L A R P OPIAZZALE V STA STAZIONE A OL ANZA P O L IC GGI A P ES VIA ANTONIO PORPORA CENTRALE C CE LI U IA PIAZZA IL A F V LORETO ST I LE DKatia ORIA Greto PIAZZALE DE CA VIA GRECO host cityVIAofGAEthe in 2026! TA N O Winter Olympic Games VIALE STRI (amministrazione@whereitalia.com) ISTRIA I VIO

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IN THE SHADOW OF THE MORO This year Milan is celebrating the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci with Leonardo500, an actionpacked program of events involving several key locations across the city. By Giulia Minero

▲ Castello Sforzesco’s Sala delle Asse, decorated by Leonardo, has re-opened its doors to the public, offering visitors a unique close-up view of the recently restored ‘Monochrome’ mural and the preparatory drawings that re-surfaced on the walls of the room. A multimedia installation will walk visitors through the entire work, from the walls to the vault, commissioned to celebrate Ludovico il Moro. The tour of the room includes an exhibition titled ‘In the shadow of the Moro. The Sala delle Asse’. Until January 2020.

Castello Sforzesco. Piazza Castello, 1. milanocastello.it www.saladelleassecastello.it - www.yesmilano.it

THE ARTISTIC LEGACY OF A GENIUS ► The celebratory year marking the 500th death anniversary of Leonardo da Vinci at the Biblioteca Ambrosiana ends with an exhibition dedicated to his artistic legacy. The exhibition showcases a selection of drawings created by Leonardo and the artists of his circle, and were chosen to highlight the key role played by the Renaissance genius. These include the innovative drawing techniques that Leonardo introduced in Milan, plus the improvements and experimental methods he used in established techniques. Until 12 January 2020.

A MASTERPIECE RETURNS HOME ▲ For the first time after thirty years, the Madonna Litta, produced by Leonardo in Milan around 1490, and secured on loan from the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, will return to Milan for a special exhibition at the Poldi Pezzoli Museum. The exhibition titled ‘Around Leonardo: The Madonna Litta and the Artist's Workshop’ will also feature a highly select body of works from all over the world, by Leonardo and his pupils. Until 10 February 2020.

Museo Poldi Pezzoli. Via A. Manzoni, 12. www.museopoldipezzoli.it

Leonardo and his legacy: the artists and techniques. Veneranda Biblioteca Ambrosiana. Piazza Pio XI, 2. www.ambrosiana.it

INSPIRED BY ‘THE LAST SUPPER’ With ‘Il Cenacolo, ispirazione senza tempo’ (The Last Supper, Timeless Inspiration), Palazzo Reale explores two important works that were painted 500 years apart. A copy of the tapestry of Leonardo’s ‘Last Supper on display for the first time since it was restored and ‘The Last Supper. Tableau Vivant, a nine-minute screening of a living picture presented in Italy for the first time. Free entry. Until 17 November 2019.

For more events: www.yesmilano.it

Palazzo Reale. Sala delle Cariatidi. Piazza Duomo, 12. www.palazzorealemilano.it

w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5

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Top in town 1

DUOMO Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church constructed over a period of 450 years is the symbol of Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof. 3 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II Sometimes known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. 6 CASTELLO SFORZESCO The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. It houses a number of interesting museums and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. 5 6 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2019

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CENACOLO VINCIANO One of the most famous attractions in the world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using a technique that was chemically imperfect and by the early 16th century it has started to flake and decay, resulting in numerous restorations. 4 PALAZZO REALE Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s square.

PIAZZA SCALA The perfect location for the new Gallerie d’Italia Art Museum and the premiere opera house Teatro alla Scala. Rising up in the center of the square is the tall monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci 1 MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad, is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations.. 2 BRERA DISTRICT This is an artsy neighbourhood which really comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces.

2020

Week & City 6

NOT TO BE MISSED EVENTS IN MILAN See more on www.yesmilano.it

FEBRUARY Milano Fashion Week Women's (Milano Moda Donna) > 18-24 February

JANUARY Milano Fashion Week Men's (Milano Moda Uomo) > 11-14 January

AMBROSIANA The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. NAVIGLI The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years ago to ferry people and merchandise to Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots. SAN SIRO STADIUM With a capacity of 80,000 seats, Milan football stadium is the largest stadium in Italy and the fourth in Europe. SANT’AMBROGIO - One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where martyrs had been buried.

MARCH Milano Museo City Milano Digital Week APRIL Milano Art Week > 13-19 April Milano Design Week > 21-26 April MAY Milano Piano City Milano Food City Milano Arch Week

PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola districts. The heart of the area is the large raised square dedicated to architect and designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi, the Diamant Tower, Palazzo Lombardia and Palazzo Pirelli designed by Gio Ponti. 7 TRIENNALE DI MILANO Since 1923 this is an international institution which organises exhibitions and events about arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, photography and theatre. CIMITERO MONUMENTALE A real outdoor museum catering, on the one hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s society, and on the other to works of art by famous sculptors of various eras.

JUNE Milano Photo Week Milano Fashion Week (Milano Moda Uomo) > 20-23 June SEPTEMBER Milano Fashion Week (Milano Moda Donna) > 22-28 September Milano Green Week Milano Movie Week Milano Calcio City Milano Bike City Milano Pet Week OCTOBER Milano Montagna Week Milano Fall Design City NOVEMBER Milano Book City Milano Music Week

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

HOT DATES NOVEMBER

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

8 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2019

MORE ON WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM/ALL-EVENTS

Milan Events 2019

Milano boasts a calendar of events that will enable visitors to enjoy and experience the city. For information on current and future events visit www.wheremilan.com/all-events and www.yesmilano.it

LEONARDO DA VINCI 500TH ANNIVERSARY Milan is celebrating the 500th anniversary of the Renaissance genius’ death with an action-packed calendar whose main events hub is Castello Sforzesco. IN THE SHADOW OF THE MORO. THE SALA DELLE ASSE at Castello Sforzesco | Sala dei Ducali

JazzMI Several locations › 1/10 November EICMA Milan's Motorcycle Show at Fiera Milano (Rho) › 5-10 November Bookcity Milano › 14-17 November

Milano Autoclassica at Fiera Milano (Rho) › 22-24 November

LEONARDO AND HIS LEGACY: THE ARTISTS AND TECHNIQUES at Veneranda Biblioteca Ambrosiana › Until 12 January 2020

AFTER LEONARDO INSTALLATIONS BY ETTORE FAVINI AND EUGENIO TIBALDI at Museo del Novecento › Until 12 January 2020

WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ – THE KITCHEN. HOMAGE TO SAINT THERESE at Cripta di San Sepolcro

Artigiano in Fiera at Fiera Milano (Rho) › 30 November-8 December © RUDY AMISANO

› Until 12 January 2020

› Until 31 December

CERITH WYN EVANS. “… THE ILLUMINATING GAS” at Pirelli HangarBicocca

FILIPPO DE PISIS. NATURA MORTA CON FIORI E FUNGHI, 1926. COLLEZIONE PRIVATA. COURTESY GALLERIA TEGA, MILANO. © GALLERIA TEGA. © FILIPPO DE PISIS BY SIAE 2019

PHOTO COOL CAT © ISAK PRETORIUS - WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR

› Until 23 February 2020

GUGGENHEIM. THE THANNHAUSER COLLECTION. FROM VAN GOGH TO PICASSO at Palazzo Reale › Until 1 March 2020

DE PISIS Museo del Novecento › Until 1 March 2020

ELLIOTT ERWITT. FAMILY at MUDEC PHOTO - Museo delle Culture

CERITH WYN EVANS LEONARDO E LA MADONNA LITTA at Museo Poldi Pezzoli › 7 November 2019 – 10 February 2020

LEONARDO HORSE PROJECT Ippodromo di San Siro and other locations › Until 9 November

› Until 15 March 2020

DECEMBER Oh Bej! Oh Bej! › 5-8 December in the area surrounding Castello Sforzesco Teatro alla Scala Première › 7 December

CANOVA AND THORVALDSEN. THE BIRTH OF MODERN SCULPTURE Gallerie d’Italia

AUSTRALIA at PAC Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea

› Until 15 March 2020

› 12 December 2019-16 February 2020

CANOVA. I VOLTI IDEALI at GAM Galleria d'Arte Moderna

JANUARY 2020

› Until 15 March 2020

GIORGIO DE CHIRICO at Palazzo Reale › Until 19 January 2020 WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR 2019 at Fondazione Luciana Matalon

MEN’S FASHION WEEK Milano Moda Uomo › 11-14 January Annual international event featuring the latest prêt-à-porter collections for men (F/W 2020-2021)

FEBRUARY 2020

› Until 22 December

WOMEN’S FASHION WEEK MICAM Milano › 16-19 February

SPITZMAUS MUMMY IN A COFFIN AND OTHER TREASURES WES ANDERSON / JUMAN MALOUF at Fondazione Prada › Until 13 January 2020

TEATRO ALLA SCALA PREMIÈRE

DE PISIS

Milano Moda Donna › 18-24 February Annual international event featuring the latest prêt-à-porter collections for women (F/W 2020-2021)

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WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

Dining amidst music

Restaurants where you can listen to concerts or live music, foodie destinations where you can dance until the small hours of the morning and ethnic locales where you can explore the culinary and musical worlds of far-off countries. Where® Milan brings you a pick of the best places where you can enjoy a great combination of food and music. BY GIULIA MINERO

12 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2019

ided by the return of the fourth edition of music festival JazzMi 2019, November is the ideal month to indulge in a break dedicated to music in Milan. If after an entire day dedicated to shopping, major art exhibitions or a series of frenetic meetings, you feel the need to chill out, perhaps by listening to your favourite music, you’re in the right place, because the city offers myriad choices. If you can’t decide whether to indulge in a typically Italian meal or enjoy a quick snack before attending a performance of live music, we have good news for you. You don’t need to choose, because Milan offers a vast array of restaurants and locales where you can dine immersed in music, entertainment and dance year-round. Take a look at our pick of the best destinations in the city, including restaurants where you can indulge in a delicious dinner while enjoying a concert or show, or all-in-one locales where you can sample traditional cuisine before hitting the dance floor until the small hours of the morning.

Potafiori

Memo Restaurant

Gourmet dining and live music Our tour starts in the heart of the vibrant Isola district, where Blue Note, one of the most famous showcases for jazz in Europe has been headquartered since 2003. Like its counterpart in Greenwich Village, New York, the ingredients for its success are based on a combination of high-quality music and food. In addition to a varied line-up of music, guests can enjoy a menu featuring simple but sophisticated cuisine, including Italian and international specialties accompanied by a selection of local and French wines,

plus a list of more than 200 cocktails. Every evening, from Tuesday to Sunday, with the exception of a single performance on Sunday, the club reverberates with the notes of important international artists during two shows, where audiences, sitting near to the artists, can immerse themselves in the music (www.bluenotemilano.com). Always on the subject of restaurants with live music, the Pavarotti Milano Restaurant Museum deserves a special mention. As its name suggests, this panoramic restaurant, situated along the walkways of the dome of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, pays tribute to the life, artistic production and favourite food of Luciano Pavarotti. Every Thursday evening, its rooms, decorated with memorabilia, photographs and historic quotes, reverberate with concerts featuring up and coming singers from the Luciano Pavarotti Foundation, accompanied by the best of Emilia Romagna’s culinary tradition, including, in particular, some of the tenor’s favourite dishes from his native Modena, which should be sampled while sipping a glass of Lambrusco (www.pavarottimilano.com). Moving away from entertainment focused on the great classics of opera, Hosteria della Musica alla Ferrovia is a go-to destination for fans of the more vibrant rhythms of jazz, pop, soul and ambient. Located within walking distance of the Stazione Centrale, this elegant locale, spread over two floors, boasts two VIP rooms – available for private events – a tasting room where you can select bottles of fine wine from the glass display cases and a special Cigar Room.

Hosteria della Musica alla Ferrovia

Blue Note

The Blue Note's stage has been graced by big-name performers including The Blues Brothers, Dee Dee Bridgewater, Stefano Bollani, The Angels in Harlem Gospel Choir and the James Taylor Quartet. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 13

Riad Yacout

WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

PH © VINCENZO TORSELLO

Pavarotti Milano Restaurant Museum

can indulge in a romantic candle-lit dinner complemented, on Thursday evenings, by a jazz performance by owner and jazz singer Rosalba Piccinni, plus musicians from all over the world (www.potafiori.com).

International flavours and sounds Bullona

In addition to sampling typical Italian fare, ranging from Neapolitan pizzas to Florentine steak, with a particular focus on regional cuisine, including dishes like ‘risotto alla milanese’, every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening, at 10.30pm, after enjoying your meal, you can indulge in a festive musical evening, featuring performances and live concerts (www.hosteriadellamusica.com). Always true to its mission of combining good food and music, Memo Restaurant is the ideal spot for those who want to spend a pleasant evening listening to the soothing sounds of jazz, pop and blues from the aperitivo hour until after dinner. Formerly home to the Abadan cinema/theatre whose stage it still retains, Memo Restaurant is 14 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2019

characterized by its warm, welcoming ambience, featuring a fireplace and original period furnishings. Various options allow guests to combine their show of choice with either dinner or a post-prandial drink. The dinner menu features traditional Italian starters and main courses, while those who only want a drink can choose from a fabulous array of signature cocktails (www.memorestaurant.com). Located just a short distance from Porta Romana, Potafiori boasts one of the most picturesque dining and entertainment options in the city. This locale, boasting a retro allure, comprises a flower shop where you can purchase or create your own bouquet, a café where you can start your day on a sweet note, and a bistro where you

Given its international standing, it is not surprising that, in Milan, several restaurants offering regional or ethnic cuisine have embraced the trend of combining music and dining, with truly unexpected renditions. Among these, standouts include El Porteño Prohibido, the latest branch of the El Porteño chain of Argentinean restaurants, which combines the most traditional cuisine typical of Buenos Aires, specializing in only the finest cuts of meat, with sensual tango performances (the ‘forbidden dance’ from which the restaurant takes its name). Every Friday and Saturday, guests can enjoy a rich program of performances that changes every three months. The shows, curated by choreographer Miguel Angel Zotto, feature internationally acclaimed dancers accompanied by a live orchestra (www.elporteno.it).

Bullona

Hailing from another geographic area, but equally inspiring, another important addition to your bucket list of must-try experiences is Riad Yacout, a restaurant and lounge bar boasting the evocative atmosphere of a traditional Riad, where, thanks to traditional cuisine, music and dances, you can discover all the appeal of Morocco. Every day, the restaurant offers a rich menu centred around the culinary traditions of the Mediterranean, with a particular focus on typical Moroccan fare. Starting at 10.30pm, the restaurant offers a program of live entertainment featuring an eclectic mixture of popular Berber, Arabic gnawa and rai and contemporary electronic music, plus belly dancing shows (www.yacout.it).

A passion for dance If you’re in search of a less formal dining option, where you can enjoy a quick snack, a salad or a hamburger before hitting the dance floor, the urban scene abounds

It’s JazzMi time!

Herbie Hancock

in numerous unmissable destinations. Located in the Navigli district, the facilities at the Apollo Club Milano include a cocktail bar, a cozy restaurant decorated with designer and 20th century furniture and a disco space where you can dance on weekends or listen to concerts during the week (www.apollomilano.com). Alternately, at Chatulle,, In the Corso Sempione neighbourhood, you can opt for a dinner featuring Mediterranean cuisine, followed by live concerts or a lively DJ set, that animate the locale until late at night on weekends (www.chatulle.it). Located in the same neighbourhood, Bullona,, a Liberty-style restaurant hosted in an old railway station, offers a similar format, combined however with a gastronomic offering consisting of oysters, royal crab, tartare and raw fish (www.bullona.com). On the other hand, if you have a weakness for Dub, Disco, Funky and Alternative Rock Music, Santeria is the place for you. A part of an important urban redevelopment

project, in addition to serving tapas, salads, hamburgers and cocktails, this bar with a kitchen hosts concerts and DJ sets that are particularly popular with a younger crowd (www.santeria.milano.it). Totally different, though equally inspiring, Sala Venezia is an old-world locale based on the concept of a modern day balera, an old dance hall typical of those found on the outskirts of large cities, where you can enjoy an authentic, vintage atmosphere. In addition to dining here – take note: the venue offers a fixed menu and you’ll need to make a reservation – you can indulge in ballroom dancing on Saturday evenings, Boogie on Sundays, participate in group dance classes during the week or listen to live rock’n’roll concerts (www. labaleradellortica.com/sala-venezia).

On the subject of music in Milan, November marks the advent of JazzMi, a young but dearly loved festival, whose last edition was attended by over 50,000 spectators. This year’s 10-day celebration of jazz brings the greats of international jazz to Milan’s most renowned stages, while simultaneously offering emerging stars a chance to play before audiences in unconventional places. The festival features heavyweight musical talent from across the globe, real prodigies of jazz including legendary pianist and composer Herbie Hancock, always

at the forefront in terms of innovation and the fusion of genres. Other big-names featured on the calendar include virtuoso guitarist John McLaughlin, jazz piano icon Kenny Barron, living legend Archie Shepp and starred piano duo Stefano Bollani / Chucho Valdés. This year, the calendar also features a ‘special edition’ by Italian trumpet player Enrico Rava who is celebrating his 80th birthday with a performance showcasing the musicians with whom he has collaborated most closely over the past decade. (www.jazzmi.it).

Enrico Rava

John McLaughlin

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[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion and design outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO

Just a few kilometres from Milan, the nec plus ultra for the fashion addicted are the city’s outlying fashion outlets. Don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations!

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

FoxTown

BERGAMO BRESCIA ?

ALESSANDRIA Mantova PIACENZA Torino Serravalle Outlet Village Outlet Village Designer Outlet

FERRARA

Mondovicino Outlet Village

GENOVA The Mall Sanremo

Fidenza Village

PISA

VENTIMIGLIA

MAR LIGURE

FIDENZA VILLAGE One of the 11 Villages of “The Bicester Village Shopping Collection” by Value Retail in Europe and China, the Village offers its guests a complete ‘360-degree’ experience and a new concept in shopping and hospitality, combining the finest expressions of fashion and luxury, entertainment and tourism. • WHERE: in the heart of the Food Valley and the Land of Verdi, just 60 minutes from Milan. Daily shuttle service from Milan city centre (pick up point from Piazza della Repubblica). • WHAT: guests can find a selection of Italian and international brands at prices reduced by up to 70% off the recommended retail price – seven days a week, all year round. More than 120 boutiques: Missoni, Jil Sander, Le Silla, New Balance, P.A.R.O.S.H., Sergio Rossi, The Bridge, Vivienne Westwood and many more. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village’s selection of

Designer Outlet

VENEZIA

Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet

FIRENZE The Mall Firenze

LIVORNO

FOXTOWN FACTORYCORSICA STORES An outlet store on the Swiss border, FoxTown uses the popular US-style “Factory Stores” formula: practically all the best designer labels at factory prices (from 30% to 70% less). • WHERE: just 20 km from Lugano and 50 km from Milan. Take the Milano-Lugano motorway and exit at Mendrisio. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan (see page 20). • WHAT: 160 exclusive stores, more than 250 top brands (including Armani, Burberry, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Guess, Michael Kors, Montblanc, Nike, Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada and Valentino), 1 casino, SARDEGNA 7 bars and restaurants, an exchange office, a touristic info point and various Tax Free refund points. www.foxtown.com

MAR ADRIATICO

Castel Guelfo BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets

restaurants offers local products based on Italian DOC-classified ingredients of the highest quality, prepared as seasonal dishes or tasty snacks for a relaxing break. www.fidenzavillage.com

? TRIESTE ? Noventa di Piave

VERONA

Franciacorta Outlet Village

MILANO Scalo Milano Outlet & More

TORINO?

Palmanova Outlet Village

? Factory Stores

Valdichiana

? Outlet Village

ANCONA

PERUGIA FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE Nestled between Lakes Garda and Iseo, less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta is not only the home to the region’s famous Docg wines but also offers a unique shopping experience: Franciacorta Outlet Village - top international brands and discounts of up to 70% year-round. ROMA • WHERE: take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway and exit at Ospitaletto or the A35 Bre-BeMi and exit at the A4 junction. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan (see page 20). • WHAT: visit the Land of Fashion: over 190 stores of Italian and international brands for up to 30-70% less all year round: Adidas, Baldinini, Beretta, Billionaire, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Cavalli Class, Fratelli Rossetti, Loriblu, Nike, Pinko, Plein Sport, Pal Zileri, Richard Ginori, Twin-Set, Trussardi, Under Armour and many more.

PESCARA

NAPOLI

Serravalle Designer Outlet 16 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2019

Franciacorta Outlet Village

Fidenza Village • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: discover a land full of taste and visit the famous Franciacorta wineries with our daily shuttle service. www.franciacortaoutlet.it

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE Established in 2016, Scalo Milano Outlet & More is a metropolitan outlet village (31,000 sq.m.) located just 15 minutes from downtown Milan. • WHERE: situated in Locate di Triulzi (via Milano, 5), it can be accessed via a Zani Viaggi free shuttle service from the Central Station-Piazza Duca d’Aosta (M2-M3 Centrale FS) and from largo Cairoli (M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza): 11am and 2.30pm (40 min. travel time). www.zaniviaggi.com (see page 20) • WHAT: it hosts 150 fashion and design brands, including Cavalli Class, Karl Lagerfeld, Fratelli Rossetti, Baldinini, A. Testoni, a Ferrari store and 15 showrooms of leading interior décor and home furnishing brands (Alessi, Kartell, Calligaris, Poltrona Frau…), as well as new collections and discounted products from 30% to 70% all year round. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: other highlights include accessories, cosmetics and sporting goods, 14 restaurants and cafés. Non-EU residents can reclaim any VAT paid on

FoxTown Factory Stores

items purchased here. Open daily: Design and Fashion areas 10am-9pm. Food Court 10am-11pm. scalomilano.it SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The largest Designer Outlet in Europe, McArthurGlen Serravalle is located just 50 minutes. away from Milan’s city center. Its beautiful setting combines all the appeal of luxury designer brands with the beauties of the surrounding Piedmont countryside and the Ligurian Riviera. McArthurGlen also boasts “Barberino” near Florence, “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. • WHERE: take the A7 Milano-Genova motorway and exit Serravalle Scrivia. From the railway stations of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Scrivia and Novi Ligure, you can catch a shuttle bus running every day from 9am to 8.20pm. A convenient shuttle bus service runs 7 times a day from 4 locations in Milan: Central Station and Foro Bonaparte (see page 20) and from Piazza Duomo and Corso Buenos Aires. Buy your ticket on line at McArthurglen/Serravalle. • WHAT: a unique shopping experience with 300 of your favourite designer brands – Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss,

Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti, Casadei and many more… – for up to 30-70% less all year round. Serravalle combines an easy-to-reach location with a relaxing atmosphere and multiple services, including free Wifi, multilingual staff, a children’s playground, café and restaurants for a perfect shopping experience at unbelievable prices! McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Situated just 30 minutes from Milan, in the province of Novara, this is the closest outlet to Milan and the ideal place to spend an exciting day’s shopping. • WHERE: take the A4 Milano-Torino motorway and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan (see page 20). • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores – including Armani, Missoni, Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Calvin Klein and Twin Set – offering clothing for the whole family, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices of up to 70%. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo The Style Outlets also hosts art exhibitions, events and other initiatives for a enjoyable day’s outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it

Scalo Milano Outlet & More

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organizes ongoing shuttles NI VI VI A O AL C to top fashion outlets, the shopping mallPR AM PO LI NI PIAZZALE S IA V LUGANO VI and the design A L district. Shuttles depart from EB O D and V I A from the Stazione the centre of Milan ENNER IO E. M VIALE J A J O R AOutlet, CentraleR(to Serravalle Designer NA ST O V IA PA Il Centro and Scalo Milano). I I VIA ANCET T N

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AN À IO VI SA V VIA PIAZZ ET PE V STA STAZIONE A A VIA S R TA T T E O I BOSCO I VIA I S A C P L PE CH C I A V A A PA ES VI VERTICALE SSIN CENTRALE C CE L IA GE V I AR LOR A MONTE D E G R I S E I IA FE CITY CENTER I EA VI IA STAZIONE ART RO A LE D O C A S T IL MVIA OZ 7 MR DAA DELL’ORSO VIAG A VI N DR O DE RR S 0 N TRENORD E N A FABBRICA L A T VI A T A E IA 2 A I ’A L NO V A Largo Cairoli, 18. M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza .D GA PIAZZA V T VA VI S A N I VRIN I RI I IA (Malpensa Express) DEL V N U EL A FONDAZIONE C F GI A A CAIAZZO PIAZZA V SA VIA DEL LAU V IIA BO VIAN I VAPORE RO VILLAANECCHI US G ELLO AF IA V R CATELLA VIA R STAZIONE LUIGI DI IA

I IOL

WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world. Take advantage of a stroll through the city to treat yourself to some alluring details of style. Where brings you a pick of the best seasonal trends and guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

▼ PISA DIAMANTI Pisa Orologeria has added a touch of femininity to its universe with the Pisa Diamanti collection of high-end jewelry. In addition to other must-have pieces, it includes this gold ring with yellow sapphire and diamond petals. www.pisaorologeria.com

▲ GUCCI This decolleté in black leather features unexpected contrasts. A combination of classic shapes and references to 1970s sportswear highlighted by a rear elastic strap. www.gucci.com

► PETTINAROLI Soft antique leather diaries featuring 128 ivory-coloured pages and a wrap-tie closure. The covers are emblazoned with ‘famous’ quotes in gold. Pettinaroli’s Brerabased boutique is a reference point for fans and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and globes. www.fpettinaroli.it www.pettinarolimapsandprints.com

▼ ALESSI Inspired by the shapes of nature, the new diffusers of ‘The Five Seasons’ series of Home fragrances by Marcel Wanders are in a shiny gold and silver porcelain with mahogany wood leaves. www.alessi.com ▲ EMILIO PUCCI The Florentine designer’s range of accessories for the upcoming season includes the ‘Dora’ bag, a round, ultrafeminine piece that becomes even more eye-catching in the embroidered satin version. www.emiliopucci.com

20 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2019

▼ BALENCIAGA These bold oversize collectible sneakers feature a mixture of quilted-effect materials. The complex three-layered sole is designed after running, athletics and basketball sneaker archetypes. www.balenciaga.com

[ W H AT ' S N E W I N T H E C I T Y]

New Openings

Fedeli A home from home: a warm, welcoming place where people can meet. The new boutique of cashmere specialist Fedeli, the historic clothing company founded in Monza in 1934, was designed with this concept in mind. Located in via San Pietro all’Orto, this space mirrors the brand’s image to perfection. A unique context where, amidst antique wood furniture, precious everyday objects and old family photographs, you can admire, and possibly purchase, on-trend pieces from Fedeli’s collections. The company has evolved over time while staying true to its roots: a family-run business now helmed by the fourth generation and a production of gorgeous knitwear, loungewear, outerwear and accessories for him and her, entirely made and produced in Italy. www.fedelicashmere.com. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 26. M1 San Babila. Map G4

VIVA In September, the VIVA restaurant by starred chef Viviana Varese, opened on the second floor of Eataly Smeraldo, overlooking Piazza XXV Aprile. VIVA is the acronym of the chef’s name and surname, but also the leitmotif of her way of being and her cuisine, a tribute to substance, colour and life. Viviana firmly believes that food is a time for sharing and conviviality: the return to a natural relationship with the land, with a focus on only the highest quality ingredients and the recovery of ancient flavours, updated with a contemporary twist. A desire for excellence which is also apparent in the restaurant’s prestigious wine list featuring 700 labels. In addition to these, the restaurant offers ‘botanical cocktails’, created from a mixture of herbs, flowers, roots and plant extracts. A business lunch service is available from Monday to Friday. www.vivavivianavarese.it Piazza XXV Aprile. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

MonteNapoleone Vip Lounge The MonteNapoleone District represents the more than 150 Global Luxury Brands found in the streets of the so-called Quadrilatero della Moda. The district coordinates the boutiques and creates partnerships with 5-star luxury hotels, restaurants, tour operators and service providers. The benefits offered by the association include the MonteNapoleone VIP Lounge – in partnership with Global Blue – a jewel-like apartment, renovated ad hoc. The space is open to customers of the boutiques and those in search of customized experiences. In addition to other services, the Lounge offers an exclusive concierge service and the option of sending your luggage and purchases directly to your airport of departure. Furthermore, non-EU citizens can request assistance to complete tax refund formalities, without queues or stress. www.montenapoleonedistrict.it via Montenapoleone 23. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 22 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2019

SHOPPING .C E T R R A V E L E

Dolce & Gabbana. Sicilian mood A restyling dedicated to the Baroque for the women’s store of the creative duo, in via della Spiga. Love, sensuality and Italian beauty, amidst precious materials and a play on perspectives. By Chiara Zaccarelli

t number 2 Via della Spiga, one of Dolce&Gabbana’s historic boutiques, in the heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda, was recently refurbished and taken to a whole new level of opulence. Stretching over 920 square meters on three floors, the new mood of the store is dedicated to both luxury and the Baroque, in keeping with the DNA of the brand. Gilded columns, portals, armchairs and mirrors, large scrolls, stems and friezes radiate all the decorative exuberance of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Myriad precious materials, ranging from Red Jasper marble and lacquered elm briar to deep red onyx with white and gold veins, act as a backdrop. The floors echo the black basalt stone of the central staircase, in a blend reflecting Italian elegance 24 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

and artisan workmanship. A testament to the attention to detail that instills the boutique with an almost magical atmosphere. The elevator, boasting a floor created with marble intarsia, features the most romantic words of Italian writers of bygone centuries. Dedicated entirely to the female universe, the three-storey boutique hosts the brand’s collections of womenswear, accessories, jewelry and watches. Like its retail counterparts on via Condotti and Piazza di Spagna in Rome, and Old Bond Street, in London, Dolce&Gabbana’s via della Spiga store has been given a new look. >> www.dolcegabbana.it Via della Spiga, 2 T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila. Map G4

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/MILAN

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

The

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS

T: Telephone number M1, M2…: Underground lines MAP LOCATIONS

Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. SHOPPING

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

Angela Caputi Giuggiù

The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. A dream well worth the wearing. Open Tues-Sat 10am1pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11. T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Borsalino Historic Italian company synonymous with “hats” the world over. Each piece is an unrepeatable masterpiece, created with an artisan touch, the result of in-depth research that harmonizes fabrics, materials and colours. Open Mon-Tues 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Wed-Sun 10am-7pm.

www.borsalino.it. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 92. T: 02 89015436. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

Saragiunti

NEW OPENING In Corso Matteotti, just a short distance from Piazza San Babila, Sara Giunti’s standalone store offers a range of handbags distinguished by clean-cut geometric shapes, Made in Italy craftsmanship and painstaking attention to the quality of materials. All Saragiunti bags feature LED lights that illuminate the interior. An ideal combination of aesthetics and practicality. www.saragiunti.it. Corso G. Matteotti, 1. T: 02 39198016. M1 San Babila.

Map G4

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Aspesi

NEW OPENING The cult brand, created in 1969 by Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 24,000 merchants are located in Milan. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as the Rinascente department stores, Value Retail outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in the Entertainment section, because they are considered as meeting places. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

An exclusive Autumn at Vicolungo The Style Outlets Vicolungo The Style Outlets is the ideal destination for shopping lovers. The Fall/ Winter collections of more than 300 brands of men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, accessories, homeware and cosmetics, with year-round discounts from 30% to 70% on the retail price, await you at the outlet’s 150 boutiques. Thanks to its offer of big-name brands including Colmar, The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Dolomite, Quiksilver, Under Armour and Odlo, the Centre is also the favourite shopping destination of sports enthusiasts. Located just 30 minutes from Milan and the Malpensa Airport, the Centre is easily accessible by car (A4 motorway, Biandrate-Vicolungo exit). Vicolungo The Style Outlets is near to the Lombardy capital and it is also connected to the city centre by a convenient shuttle service which departs daily at 10.30am from Milano Cairoli. Indulging in a break at one of the Centre’s numerous bars or restaurants is a great way to end your day’s shopping spree. Vicolungo The Style Outlets offers its customers numerous services including tax free shopping, free Wi-Fi access and IAT tourist information. Lastly, by presenting this page at the Info Point, you can collect your shopping card which entitles you to an additional discount of 10% on the outlet price, at participating shops. For more information visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it

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SHOPPING Luxury shopping

Rocca 1794

Milano Malpensa Airport (45km)

Pisa Orologeria Rolex Boutique

Luigi Verga Orologi

Gobbi 1842 Rocca 1794

Orologeria Luigi Verga

Ronchi

Official Retailers in Milan Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique Via Montenapoleone, 24 T: 02 76317726

Orologeria Luigi Verga Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo) T: 02 8056521

Gobbi 1842 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15 T: 02 76020536

Luigi Verga Orologi Corso Vercelli, 19 T: 02 48198656

26 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

Rocca 1794 Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447 Milano Malpensa Airport-Terminal 1 T: 02 74867578 Ronchi Via Gonzaga, 5 T: 02 877449

Illustration copyright ÂŠ 2019. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by Mario Camerini

This map is kindly sponsored by the Rolex Official Retailers in Milan

[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY www.albertaferretti.com Via Montanapoleone, 18. T: 02 76003095. M3 Montenapoleone, Map G4 ASPESIwww.aspesi.com Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila. Map G4 BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/a. T: 02 76024495 • Maison Bottega Veneta, Via Sant’Andrea, 15. T: 02 77878115. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI www.brunellocucinelli.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/c. T: 02 76015982. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G3 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com Via Sant’Andrea, 11. T: 02 76318794. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 84. T: 02 72094454. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 DIORwww.dior.com Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76317801. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it Via Montenapoleone, 4. T: 02 77123711. Map F4 • Corso Venezia, 15 (Man). T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • via della Spiga, 2 (Accessories). T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila. Map G4 EMILIO PUCCIwww.emiliopucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 76318356. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNAwww.zegna.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com. Via Montenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76005049. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com Via Montenapoleone, 2 (and in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 76003234. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • One stop shop for Armani Lifestyle, from food to home accessories. Via A. Manzoni, 31. T: 02 72318600. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 GUCCIwww.gucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 8597991. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 HOGANwww.hogan.com Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76011174. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 ISSEY MIYAKEwww.isseymiyake.com Via Bagutta, 12. T: 02 781040. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

JIMMY CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A. T: 02 45481770. M1 San Babila. Map G4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 7772901. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 LOUIS VUITTONwww.louisvuitton.com Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 7771711. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 72147011. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 MICHAEL KORSwww.michaelkors.com Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner of Galleria San Carlo, 12. T: 02 76341378. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 8. T: 02 76341381. M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila. Map G4 MISSONIwww.missoni.it Via Sant’Andrea corner of via Bagutta. T: 02 76003555. M1 San Babila. Map G4 MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com Via Sant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via Sant’Andrea, 21 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • c/o la Rinascente, Piazza Duomo. T: 02 55028800. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 PRADAwww. prada.com Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65 (Woman). T: 02 876979. • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62 (Man). T: 02 87211450. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Via Montenapoleone, 8 (Woman). T: 02 7771771. Via Montenapoleone, 6 (Man). T: 02 76020273. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 18 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 780465. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com. (Woman) Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76000054. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • (Man) Via Montenapoleone, 20/4. T: 02 76006660. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TOD’Swww.tods.com Via della Spiga, 22. T: 02 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Sun 10.30am-7pm). T: 02 877997. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 STEFANO RICCIwww.stefanoricci.com Via Gesù, 3. T: 02 798588. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TRUSSARDIwww.trussardi.it Concept Store: Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 80688242. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 VALENTINOwww.valentino.com Via Montenapoleone, 20. T: 02 76006182. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 VERSACEwww.versace.com Via Montenapoleone, 11. T: 02 76008528. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 89011479. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Manzoni 24, style and craftsmanship

A contemporary space in the heart of Milan’s historic centre that blends in perfectly with its stylish surrounds in the city’s viby fashion district. A warm, welcoming venue and the perfect place to be inspired, admire and naturally try on the various fur designs on display. Luxe collections of clothing, accessories and homeware for those who appreciate modern style and traditional Italian craftsmanship. Easy-to-wear garments featuring impeccably tailored lines in which even the noblest furs are adapted to suit a young, contemporary style. Diverse materials meet and give life to new trends: quilted jackets pair perfectly with fur, fur enhances cashmere and the unexpected becomes a fashion item. In the photo: a double-faced coat in a reversible Prince of Wales jacquard fabric with a detachable mink collar. A perfect combination of camel and coral, two fashion-forward colours for the 2019-2020 autumn/winter season. www.condorpelli.it Via Manzoni, 24. T: 02 76001395. Map F4

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SHOPPING collections are still based on the original “no-frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.aspesi.it. Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila. Map G4

A reference brand for artisanal, Made in Italy women’s shoes, the ALFONSO GARLANDO boutique in Brera offers a range of high-end footwear that can also be customized on request.

Eddy Monetti

NEW OPENING Eddy Monetti’s story began in Naples in 1887 and more than 130 years later it is still a family-run business. In Milan, the brand recently relocated to via San Pietro all’Orto, in the heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda. Spread over three floors, the new boutique has retained the intimate, welcoming atmosphere that distinguishes all the brand’s standalone stores. Highlights include a bar, a corner featuring a grand piano, books by Taschen, and a charming terrace on the first floor, where you can enjoy a cup of coffee accompanied by typical Neapolitan pastry. It’s the ideal setting to host the brand’s wide assortment of chic, high-end men and women’s apparel. All items are handmade and flanked by a chic, seasonal collection of leisurewear. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm.

eddymonetti.com. Via San Pietro all'Orto, 22. T: 02 76000940. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Fedeli

NEW OPENING The company’s passion for top quality, elegant design and its devotion to individual customer preferences since its early production days during the 1930’s, has consolidated the brand as symbol of pure, high-class fashion. Scarves, cashmere pullovers, knitwear, shirts, swimwear and polos and outerwear all crafted using only the finest, “Made-in-Italy” yarns processed according to time-honoured artisan techniques. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 26. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 02 76023392. M1 San Babila.

Map F4

Manzoni 24 A stylish location in the heart of the city where customers can discover all the elegance of its uber-luxe fur collections. Sophisticated creations for those who appreciate modern style and traditional Italian craftsmanship. Its specialized staff is on-hand to suggest the look best suited to each and every customer’s individual requirements. Open 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.condorpelli.it. Via Manzoni, 24. T: 02 76001395. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Uniqlo

NEW OPENING The Japanese giant of fast fashion has made its debut in Italy with a 1,500 sq.m three-level megastore, hosting its men’s, women’s and children’s collections. The Italian Uniqlo also focuses on the philosophy of Lifewear: a minimalist but elegant design, sophisticated production techniques and affordable prices, In addition to classic apparel, as an exclusive for Milan, the Piazza Cordusio store offers an assortment of cashmere sweaters in 50 different colours and one of the largest collection of printed T-shirts of all the Uniqlo stores in Europe, including several styles created in collaboration with museums and local designers. www.uniqlo.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Via Cordusio, 2. M1 Cordusio. Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTERS

Giosa, a coloured season

Crocodile is the only material that Giosa uses for its creations and is the distinctive feature that makes its accessories unique. At its Brera-based boutique, Giosa Milano offers a wide variety of precious crocodile skins. The skins, available in a wide range of colours and finishes, are processed in a historic vault, where customers can create their own luxurious, unique and customized accessories under the guidance of expert artisans. Its fall/winter collection features the plum-rich hues of the most precious crocodile skins alongside shades of pink in a vibrant, harmonious blend. The micro bags, presented again this season, are jewel-like accessories that enhance elegant outfits and add a touch of class to more casual looks. Crocodile accessories also add an additional touch of chic to home furnishings thanks to Giosa’s new range of made-to-measure frames; precious, unique and ideal for all environments, they enhance the beauty of the item displayed with a new look. Thanks to its artisanal history and the expertise of skilled craftsmen, Giosa Milano always pays close attention to the requirements of a discerning clientele in search of elegant, unique pieces. An expression of superb craftsmanship for an international, cosmopolitan clientele. www.giosamilanno.com. Via Ciovasso, 6. T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza

28 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

12 The Brian&Barry Building San Babila A 12-floor “vertical dream”, starting from the basement and spiralling upwards to the 9th floor, hosting the ASOLA | Cucina Sartoriale restaurant helmed by chef Matteo Torretta, and the 10th floor featuring a terrace/lounge space. The megastore will host a series of different high-end products and services including clothing, food, cosmetics, design objects, jewellery and watches. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.thebrianebarrybuilding.it. Via Durini, 28. T: 02 76005582. M1 San Babila. Map G4

CityLife Shopping District The new CityLife Shopping district, the largest urban shopping centre in Italy, is located in a redeveloped urban area that once housed Milan’s historic fairgrounds. Developed in collaboration with archistars like Zaha Hadid, Arata isozaki and Daniel Libeskind, CityLife is one of the largest urban redevelopment projects ever conceived in Europe. In addition to integrating residences, offices, public parks, outdoor spaces and service facilities, the district hosts 100 shops and eateries: fashion, accessories, cosmetics, wellness, home

reasons to love

Serravalle Designer Outlet

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the smart services

We’re just a 50 minute drive from Milan. Alternatively, take advantage of our shuttle bus service departing from several locations in the city centre. Visit us online for more information.

Discover our range of great services, from free Wi-fi and portable phone chargers, to hands-free shopping and even an international delivery service.

the tax-free shopping

Non-EU residents are eligible for an onsite tax refund on purchases made at the centre. Visit our Tax Refund Office to find out more.

mcarthurglen.it/serravalle

the great location

the special events

Join us from 29th November to 2nd December for Black Friday. Enjoy even greater offers on amazing brands and incredible discounts on outlet prices.

SHOPPING décor and high-tech are the star players of its exclusive commercial offer. Open daily 9am-9pm. www.citylifeshoppingdistrict.it. Piazza Tre Torri. M5 Tre Torri. Map C2

Il Centro

Rinascente

MUST-SEE A fabulous department store overlooking the Duomo, a real part of Milan’s history. 10 storeys with a refined and contemporary ambience where shoppers can find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design. Rinascente Food & Restaurants on the 7th floor features a Food Market brimming with rare delicacies, all origin

One of the largest shopping mall in Europe (two rich floors in commercial proposals), Il Centro boasts over 200 shops and boutiques - devoted to fashion, accessories, gifts, homeware, high-tech, leisure, beauty and wellness – 25 restaurants and bars, a diagnostic centre, a sports centre and few play areas for kids, free wi-fi, tax free, dog sitting and grooming. It has launched for the first time in Italy several flagship stores of international brands as Primark, Lego, Bath&Body Works, H&M Home, Mi Store). Designed by the internationally renowned architect Michele de Lucchi, it has been inspired by the ancient Lombard courts. Located

just 30 minutes from the centre of Milan, it is easily accessible from the Stazione Centrale via a convenient shuttle service (pick up point Central Station-Piazza Duca d’Aosta – ticket on board 5€ return or www.zaniviaggi.it) or by car sharing DriveNow Carsharing (download the app). Open daily 9am-10pm. www.centroilcentro.it. Via Luraghi, 11 – Arese (MI). Off Map

controlled. It also offers visitors a choice of as many as nine bars and restaurants designed to cover the entire spectrum of taste (open 7 days a week until midnight; dedicated entrances also on via Santa Radegonda, 1 and via San Raffaele, 2. T: 02 8852471). Open seven days a week: from Mon-Thurs 9am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 10am-9pm. www.rinascente.it.Piazza Duomo, 10. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Scalo Milano Outlet & More Located approximately 15 minutes from downtown Milan, this is a hub of fashion, food, design and much more. Boasting approximately 130 stores on one level (with the exception of the Food Court which has been designed as an arena below the street level) this outlet village promises a unique shopping experience. It can be quickly reached by car or via the S13 Railway link (‘Locate Triulzi’ station). Free shuttle bus from Milan Central Railway Station and piazza Cairoli. Check the website for opening hours. www.scalomilano.it. Via Milano, 5 (Locate Triulzi). T: 02 90470350. Off Map

DESIGNER STORES 10 Corso Como A unique and ever-expanding mix of selling spaces grouped around a beautiful courtyard in Corso Como’s pedestrian area. Worth particular note are the Galleria Carla Sozzani, a book store stocking design books, boutiques, must-have luxury goods, a café and a restaurant. Open Mon-Tues-Fri-Sat-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm; WedThurs 10.30am-9pm. www.10corsocomo.com. Corso Como, 10. T: 02 653531. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Alessi

Stylish shopping at Franciacorta Outlet Village

Located in Rodengo Saiano, on the outskirts of Brescia, Franciacorta Outlet Village is an ideal destination to experience an unmissable day dedicated to making purchases. The outlet is home to more than 190 shops offering the F/W collections of clothing for men, women and children, accessories, footwear, personal care products, toys and home linens by well-known Italian and international brands, with year-round discounts of from 30% to 70%. There is always something new to enjoy at the Village: Mabrun, Dolomite, Pal Zileri, Flavio Castellani, Cavalli Class, Cinzia Rocca, Romeo Gigli, Angelico, Elena Mirò, Champion Premium Collection, Momonì and Liviana Conti are just a few of the stores that have opened at the Village in recent months. Art and culture play an important role at the Village. Given the record attendance at the fabulous show titled ‘From Warhol to Banksy: a journey through the history of contemporary art’, the exhibition will be extended until mid-November. The Village’s affiliation with the Franciacorta area and its famous wine-producing cellars is one of the key attractions offered by the outlet. Every day, at 2pm, you can book a guided tour with tasting sessions featuring Franciacorta DOCG sparkling wines. In November, the Castelveder wine estate in Monticelli Brusati will welcome tourists for tastings. Accessing the Village from Milan is easy and comfortable. A daily shuttle service leaves from Largo Cairoli at 11am and reaches the Village an hour later. The shuttle leaves the Village at 6.30pm. www.franciacortaoultet.it

30 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

An “art factory” which offers utensils and accessories signed by some of the most renowned names in international design. Open Mon-Sun 10am-70pm. www.alessi.com. Via A. Manzoni, 14/16. T: 02 795726. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Armani/Casa In the many years since its lauch, Armani/Casa has established a pure, modern tradition where pragmatism becomes poetry. A precise aesthetic sense pervades every collection by Giorgio Armani. Open Mon-Sat 10am-19pm. www.armanicasa.com. Corso Venezia, 14. T: 02 76260230. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Artemide Located close to the historic Palazzo Poldi Pezzoli, the shop is given over entirely to lighting. Lamps and light systems boasting cutting-edge technology plus a design consultancy service. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.artemide.com. Via A. Manzoni, 12. T: 02 778712201. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Cargo Home furnishings, books, perfumes, candles, carpets and a sector dedicated to tropical plants. An exotic open space reconverted from a famous Milanese industrial factory but also a cultural centre hosting discussions on art, food, music and games. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am7.30pm. www.cargomilano.it. Via A. Meucci, 43. T: 02 2722131. M2 Crescenzago. Off Map

SHOPPING Luxury shopping Illustration Illustrationcopyright copyright©©2019. 2019.All Allrights rightsreserved. reserved.Whilst Whilstevery everycare carehas hasbeen beentaken takentotocheck checkthe theaccuracy accuracyofofthe theinformation informationininthis thismap, map,the thepublishers publisherscannot cannotaccept acceptresponsibility responsibilityfor forerrors errorsororomissions omissionsororthe theconsequences consequences thereof. thereof.No Nopart partofofthis thismap mapmay maybe bereproduced reproducedwithout withoutthe thepermission permissionofofthe thepublishers. publishers.This Thismap mapisisoriginally originallydesigned designedand andproduced producedby byMario MarioCamerini Camerini

Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera

Luigi Verga Orologi A large selection of some of the most desirable watch brands available on the market, including Rolex, Tudor, IWC, Panerai, Baume & Mercier, Montblanc, Tag Heuer, Dietrich, Garmin Marq and Pomellato jewelry. The internal workshop provides high qualified watch repair and maintenance services. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/ 3pm-7pm. www.vergaorologi.it Corso Vercelli, 19 M1 Conciliazione-Pagano T: 02 48198656

Luigi Verga Orologi

O F F I C I A L R E TA I L E R

Christofle Christofle evokes innovative modern design and the elegance of times gone by with its beautifully crafted silver cutlery, tableware, crystal jewellery and gift objects. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.christofle.com. Corso Venezia, 6. T: 02 781948. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Danese A small shop, with a vaguely understated air, for one of Italy’s legendary design brands. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.danesemilano.com. Piazza San Nazaro in Brolo, 15. T: 02 58304150. M3 Missori, M3 Crocetta. Map F5

Driade A cult store for the globally design-addicted offering furniture, objets d’art and accessories

designed by some of the biggest names on the international design scene. Located in the heart of Milan, it is spread over an area of about 500 square meters on three levels and with a beautiful outdoor area. The store embodies the spirit of the Driade world: a 360-degree view on the world of living which combines poetry and rigor and translates them into a timeless, elegant, and joyful product. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.driade. com. Via Borgogna, 8. T: 02 799957. M1 San Babila. Map G4

De Padova A domestic place integrated with the Boffi brand, where architecture, design and interior design are together in an innovative dimension, with the usual style. It cannot be seen from the street, but the inside experience – moving between the two levels of 1100 square metres in total, in the outside/inside connection – recalls the relationship with the city and its industriousness. Open Mon 10am-6pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.depadova.com. Via Santa Cecilia, 7. T: 02 777201. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Galleria Rossana Orlandi Opened in 2002 in a former tie Factory in the Magenta neighbor, it has been forecasting along the years new and upcoming designers and establishing the premise as one of the most revered platform for avant-garde Design and Lifestyle. The space is articulated in a not traditional way mixing together, showroom, a retail store, offices and a courtyard for events and meeting. Galleria Rossana Orlandi has also revolutionized the way to present design art pieces, showing them always in real ambiances. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.rossanaorlandi. com. Via M. Bandello, 14/16. T: 02 4674471. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

High Tech A large multi-space emporium selling sofas, bookshelves, fragrances, notebooks, lamps, kitchenware but also ethnic furniture and fashion accessories. Original, innovative home furnishings at affordable prices. Open Mon 1.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.cargomilano.it. Piazza XXV Aprile, 12. T: 02 6241101. M2 Moscova, M2-M5 Garibaldi. Map F2

Paola C. Functional table items, elegant and mysterious at first sight, the wooden boxes from the ‘Yellow Box’ collection by KNINDUSTRIE can be used as sugar bowls, cheese bowls, spice holders and more.

The showroom is located in the courtyard of via Solferino 11 and hosts a tableware collection based on a youthful yet refined interpretation. The Paola C. collections of objects made using a variety of materials are created by

SHOPPING Italian and foreign designers and artists under the art direction of Aldo Cibic. His items are also available at Savona 18 Suites (Tortona district), where you can buy vintage and contemporary design objects. The hall of the hotel is a real gallery of art. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/3pm7pm. Saturday by appointment only. www.paolac. com. Via Solferino, 11. T: 02 862409. M2 Moscova. Map F3

beginning, Bulgari has been a reference point for luxury jewellery. It also carries watches, fragrances, accessories and small table items. Its most famous collection is the “Bzero1”, originally crafted in gold and subsequently embellished with diamonds and precious stones. Open Mon 11am-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.bulgari.com. Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 777001. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Poltrona Frau

Cartier

A symbol of Italian artisan elegance. In addition to its cult leather armchairs, it also stocks a rich collection of sofas, beds, tables, desks and accessories. Open Mon 2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.poltronafrau.com. Via Durini, 1. T: 02 6570626. M1 San Babila. Map G5 • Via A. Manzoni, 30. T: 02 97070170. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

In addition to its jewellery, Cartier is also famous as a luxury maker of watches, second only in the world to Rolex. Renowned for its design and technology, Cartier’s steel watches are embellished with details in gold, platinum and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cartier. it. Via Montenapoleone, 16/A corner of Via Gesù. T: 02 3030421. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Venini

Chopard

The art of glass-making. The new collections and the historic pieces of this brand founded in 1921 are showcased against a neutral, minimalist background. Via Montenapoleone, 10. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.venini.com. T: 02 76000539. M1 San Babila. Map F4

Villeroy & Boch The company boasts years of experience in the field of product design and interior design. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.villeroy-boch.com. Via Montebello, 35. T: 02 65584928. M3 Turati. Map F3

FASHION OUTLETS Il Salvagente Established in 1978, Il Salvagente is among Milan’s best-known and longest established outlets: a comprehensive offering of high-end fashion in the city of fashion. Clothing, accessories and shoes, for him and for her, at up to 70% off. This landmark Milanese outlet is located just a few minutes from the airport of Linate and the Central station and is easily accessible from the centre of the city. Enjoy all the perks of city shopping but with far more palatable price tags! Via Fratelli Bronzetti, 16. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. T: 02 76110328. www.salvagente.com. Map H4

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet The boutique welcomes customers into a warm, elegant atmosphere where they can savour the spirit of the Maison of Le Brassus, the oldest makers of Haute Horlogerie still owned by the founding family. Though this is one of the brand’s smallest venues it nevertheless showcases the four collections of Audemars Piguet: Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Millenary and Jules Audemars. Here visitors can also admire the special editions created for Audemars Piguet boutiques throughout the world together with several complicated pieces. Upon request, the boutique offers a worldwide delivery service. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Via Montenapoleone, 6. T: 02 76003115. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Bulgari

Among the most noteworthy names in the world together with Cartier and Tiffany, since the very

ambience, in perfect keeping with the brand’s creations. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.dior. com. Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76317801. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Gobbi 1842 Founded in 1842, Gobbi is a reference point for refined jewelry just expanded by adding the brand Fred to the wide handcrafted Gobbi collection, and timepieces, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor. You will get the same fine assistance that the Gobbi family has been providing its clients for the last six generations. The upper-floor laboratory provides quick, top quality, watch repair and maintenance service.

The Swiss brand, famed throughout the world for its refined timepieces and jewellery collections, has opened the doors of its recently refurbished boutique in via della Spiga. The ground floor houses the Chopard Uomo collection, with one space, in particular, dedicated to the LUC, 1000 Miglia and Manifacture collections. In fact, the new Milanese Chopard boutique is the only one in the world to boast a Men’s Room of this kind. The first floor is home to the accessories room, a room dedicated to its Women’s collections and a VIP room featuring the Maison’s most exclusive pieces of high-class jewellery and haute horologerie. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. chopard.com. Via della Spiga, 14. T: 02 76394950. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with the innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of the Damiani jewelry reproposed in a flagship store designed by Antonio Citterio. A well-lighted space displays all the Maison’s jewelry collections, which are admired throughout the world for their jewelry to be realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.damiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 76028088. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Daniela De Marchi-DDM

Situated just a stone’s throw from the Duomo, Atelier daniela de marchi - ddm is an evocative location where jewellery collections are designed and handcrafted. Located on the ground floor of an historic building, it serves as a perfect backdrop to the designer’s creations: jewels rendered unique by the patented “Dropage” technique in silver, bronze, brass and semiprecious stones covered in different colored enamels. The Atelier is an iconic destination for the savvy radical chic Milanese élite. Tues–Sat 10am-7pm. www.danielademarchi.it. Via dei Piatti, 9. T: 02 86995040. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Missori. Map E5

Dior Following a complete makeover by Peter Marino, the women’s boutique of the historic Paris maison in via Montenapoleone 12 hosts clothing, accessory, jewellery and high-class timepiece collections all set within an exclusive, sophisticated w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 33

SHOPPING of invention and creativity which has set this reference brand of Haute Horlogerie apart in the field of watchmaking since 1833. Featuring an elegant, low-key interior, this exclusive space harmoniously blends the best of design and contemporary materials with an Art Déco style, a period in which the Swiss watchmakers created the legendary Reverso. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am7.30pm; Sat 10.30am-8.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76281376. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Luigi Verga Orologi A large selection of some of the most desirable watch brands available on the market, including Rolex, Tudor, Baume&Mercier, Montblanc, Panerai, Tag Heuer, Dietrich, TCM, Pomellato and Pomellato 67. Luigi Verga Orologi also prides itself on its after-sales service and boasts an on-premises UNI EN ISO 9001: EDITION 2008 certified repair workshop. www.vergaorologi.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. Corso Vercelli, 19. T: 02 48198656. M1 ConciliazioneM1 Pagano. Map C4

KITCHEN MILANO See page 36.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.gobbi1842.com. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15. T: 02 76020536. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Jaeger-LeCoultre Ideally located in the heart of Milan’s “Golden Fashion Triangle”, Jaeger-LeCoultre opened its first Italian boutique in keeping with the spirit

Orologeria Luigi Verga A point of reference for high-end watchmaking collectors and lovers managed by the Verga Family since 1947. The store carries the most prestigious brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemar Piguet, Eberhard & Co., Panerai, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor and Hublot. Its certified

upper-floor workshop provides high-qualified watch repair and maintenance services. www. luigiverga.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm7pm. Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo). T: 02 8056521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 • Open Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. Via V. Capelli, 6 (Piazza Gae Aulenti). The store carries the most prestigious brands such as Patek Philippe, Cartier, Tudor, Pomellato and Montblanc. T: 02 6595775. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Patek Philippe Boutique by Pisa Orologeria The boutique represents further proof of the perfect harmony between the Pisa Family and the Patek Philippe brand, as well as their common determination to offer clients an environment of excellence for the Geneva masterpieces. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Mon 10.30am-7pm. www.patek.com. Via Verri, 9. T: 02 762081. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Pisa Orologeria Flagship Store A watch lover’s paradise for over 70 years. A ground-breaking expansion project involving the addition of 1,000 square metres dedicated to forty brands that have made the history of Haute Horlogerie, from the A of Audemars Piguet to the Z of Zenith. Prestigious timepieces with particular attention to the latest innovations. Assistance centre and specialized workshop. Unique gift packaging with delivery guaranteed to any part of the world. Open Mon 10.30am-7pm; Tues-Sat

FIDENZA VILLAGE & MILAN CITY. A N EXCLUSIVE ITALIAN EXPERIENCE. Enjoy an unforgettable shopping experience in more than 120 boutiques, with up to 70% off the recommended retail price, all year round. DEPARTURE PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA 9.45 at the junction am

RETURN 5.30 pm

FIDENZA VILLAGE

SHOPPING TOUR TO FIDENZA VILLAGE Available every day Adult € 20 pp - Child 5-12 years old € 10 pp

with Via Turati Transport service offered by Frigerio Viaggi Trasporti.

Planning your stay in Milan? Discover OpenCITY: 1 Card and 5 thematic Mini-cards available for any budget, starting from 12 €, including museums and attractions, public transportation, discounts. Ask for more information to the Concierge. www.opencitymilan.com 34 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

SHOPPING 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.pisaorologeria.com. Via P. Verri, 7. T: 02 762081. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique The Pisa family has always been a forerunner in the world watch sector and now hosts the Rolex Boutique. The collaboration between the Pisa family and the Rolex brand goes back over 70 years. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.pisaorologeria. com. Via Montenapoleone, 24. T: 02 76317726. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Rocca 1794 Master jewellers and watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. A selection among the most prestigious brands: Damiani, Rolex, Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Cartier, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor. Rocca guarantees outstanding levels of competence and expert skillfull consultancy. www.rocca1794.com. • Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7pm. Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Open daily 6.15am-10pm (Friday 9.30pm). Milano Malpensa Airport - Terminal 1 (Piazza del Lusso). T: 02 74867578. Off Map

Ronchi Opened in 1929, it has become a prestigious reference point for watch lovers the world

over, always combining a passion for high-end watchmaking with a love for refined jewellery and ongoing research on fashion-forward and classic trends. Among the most prestigious brands: Rolex, Tudor, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Franck Muller. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.ronchigioielli.com. Via Gonzaga, 5. T: 02 877449. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Tiffany & Co. This world-renowned jeweller has ten boutiques in Italy: Milan, Rome, Venice, Verona, Florence and Bologna. Located in the heart of Milan, it carries an exclusive selection of classically simple jewellery and gift items in perfect keeping with the tradition of its famous New York counterpart founded in 1837. www.tiffany.it. Open Mon-Sun 9.30am-8.30pm. Piazza Duomo Flagship Store. T: 02 89094202. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 19/A. T: 02 76022321.M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 • Open Mon-Sun 10am 8.30pm. Shop in Shop c/o Excelsior Milano. Galleria del Corso, 4. T: 02 76280561. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Vacheron Constantin Boutique The two-level boutique is a universe that combines elegance, modernity and refinement in a perfect equilibrium which shed a new light on the DNA of the Maison. A vital and living space that originates with the intention to open the world of high-end watchmaking of Vacheron Constantin to a cosmopolitan

public of connoisseurs. The boutique carries the manufacturer’s entire range of watches, displayed on the ground floor, with a private room giving the right privacy to discover the most fascinating complications of the brand. On the upper floor lies an elegant space inspired by the art de vivre Vacheron Constantin and a refined American Bar. Open Mon 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm7pm. www.vacheron-constantin.com – www.pisaorologeria.com. Via Verri, 9. T: 02 762081. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Van Cleef & Arpels Respect for the past, a taste for beauty, a passion for travel and a search for harmony are the underlying values that the Maison has continued to uphold since its creation in 1906. Values which though never losing sight of contemporary styles nevertheless continue to encourage an ongoing dialogue between those who create the jewellery and those who wear them. A timeless recognizable style defined by elegance, femininity and creative audacity are the hallmark features found in all the collections of this historic brand. For a century Van Cleef & Arpels have been fusing inspiration and technical prowess into creations embodying expertise, ingenuity and talent. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.vancleef-arpels.com. Via P. Verri, 10. T: 02 7767951. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

WELCOME TO THE BEST SELECTION OF MADE IN ITALY HIGH FASHION FABRICS Via G. Verdi, 2 - T: 02 782124 / 02 76001986 - vallitessuti.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 35

SHOPPING LEATHER & LUGGAGE Giosa Milano

UNIQUE An atelier combined with a showroom in the Brera district, where the particular way to work the crocodile leather is, before being a business, a family history for about 50 years. The atelier merges the traditional working techniques of how to handle the most precious leathers with the modern and innovative way to transform them. Today Giosa Milano has become a reality bringing the finest craftsmanship and producing unique pieces intended to satisfy each costumer’s necessity, from the choice of colors to the most sophisticated finish. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Sun by appointment. www.giosamilano.com. Vicolo Ciovasso, 1. T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map F4

Il Bisonte At its boutique in via Santo Spirito, Florentine leather goods house Il Bisonte offers customers its full range of luxury items. Its beautifully handcraft bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomize the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. Located in the heart of the Quadrilatero della moda, in addition to exquisite wood, the brand’s trademark cowhide leather has been used to upholster the furniture and as a decorative element of the store’s interior décor. Open Mon-

Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.ilbisonte.com. Via Santo Spirito, 14. T:02 76003014. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

PASSION SHOPPING

Inspired by the mysterious curves of a breathtaking desert landscape, Golden Oasis by PIAGET reflects a vivid light and intense hues from down till dusk.

Christofle Located in the heart of Milan, venerable Parisian tableware and home decor house Christofle has given its emblematic boutique a sumptuous makeover. All of its tableware, home décor, accessories and jewelry collections, customizable on request, are sold both at its boutique and at la Rinascente (6th floor). Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.christofle.com - pavillon.milano@christofle. com.Boutique Corso Venezia, 6. T: 02 781948. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Culti Milano Following the launch of its historic showroom in corso Venezia 53, via Fiori Chiari 6 is the address of Culti Milano’s new Brera-based boutique dedicated to sought-after home fragrances. The store stocks the entire range of the House’s signature fragrances, characterized by its unmistakable style which focuses on quality, a careful selection of only the finest ingredients and painstaking attention to detail, to personalize both the home and the workplace with an aura of sophisticated elegance. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-

7.30pm. www.culti.com. Via Fiori Chiari, 6. T: 02 36553875. M2 Lanza. Map F3

KitcheN Milano A reference point on the Milanese scene for cooking enthusiasts. Within its welcoming and modern space, KitcheN offers a wide range of top-quality utensils and gadgets in sought-after designs, as well as a selection of gourmet foods and cookery books. This concept stems from a partnership with knIndustrie which curated its restyling and artistic direction, repositioning the brand and introducing new products and new ‘stories’ dedicated to contemporary and professional cuisine, with a focus on versatility, experience and accessibility. This multi-functional space also hosts a rich events calendar including cookery courses, seminars, cultural meetings, exhibitions and tastings. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.kitchenmilano.it. Via E. De Amicis, 45. T: 02 58102849. M2 Sant’Ambrogio.Map E5

Lorenzi Milano

NEW OPENING Historic Milanese cutler Lorenzi has re-opened in the city’s imposing Palazzo Bolchini in piazza Meda. The interior is spread over 180 square meters with three window displays, and has been designed to reflect the atmosphere of the brand’s former historic ‘bottega’, interpreted with a more contemporary look. In addition to a wide range of knives, the shop boasts an assortment of other beautifully crafted items including travel accessories, grooming tools, and objet d’art in horn, precious woods, bamboo and mother-ofpearl. The company also creates bespoke items to meet the requirements of discerning customers. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.lorenzi-milano.com. Piazza Meda, 3. T: 02 49529106. M1 San Babila. Map F4

R-Store

APPLE PREMIUM RESELLER This R-Store, one of the 16 sales points in Italy, offers Apple products and accessories, qualified pre-and postsales assistance, as well as courses and services, making it a go-to reference point for customers requiring any type of trouble-shooting advice. The store also provides dedicated consultancy to companies, schools, universities and the world of public administration. Open Mon-Fri 10am7.30pm; Sat 10am-7pm. www.rstore.it. Viale Piave, 38. T: 02 29510038. M1 Porta Venezia. Map H3

The Merchant of Venice A historic brand epitomizing the Venetian art of perfume-making, has an elegant, new store in Brera. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice carries a luxury line comprising a wide range of exclusive fragrances for men and women, bath and body collections, home fragrances and accessories in elegant flacons based on the ancient designs of renowned Murano glass blowers. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Sat 36 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

[SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE]

A new shopping concept Located just 15 minutes from the centre of Milan, Scalo Milano Outlet & More boasts 150 shops dedicated to shopping and design (of which 22 are new arrivals), with discounts of up to 70% year-round.

Located just 15 minutes from the city centre, thanks to a diverse offer featuring the best of fashion with discounts ranging from 30% to 70%, but also new collections, the most avant-garde design brands and a vast array of eateries, Scalo Milano Outlet & More offers a unique experience dedicated to shopping and entertainment. Spread over a surface area of 30,000 sq.m., the centre currently hosts 150 stores, including 15 dedicated exclusively to design featuring homeware, furnishing accessories and textiles by big-name brands including Alessi, Kartell, Calligaris and Poltrona Frau, plus 14 restaurants. Sports enthusiasts will find all the accessories and sports gear that they

require at Nike or Adidas, fashion addicts will be spoilt for choice with designer labels by the likes of Karl Lagerfeld or Cavalli Class, while lovers of Made in Italy will find exactly what they’re looking for at Fratelli Rossetti or Piquadro. The Food Court, which is open throughout the day, offers a wide choice of culinary options ranging from craft beer at Doppio Malto to the starred Aromatica restaurant. And, to top it all, the centre offers an actionpacked entertainment and events calendar featuring music, art and charitable events. >> scalomilano.it. Open daily from 10am to 9pm The Food Court is open until 11pm Via Milano, 5 – Locate di Triulzi (MI).

HOW TO GET THERE - Free shuttle service from Milan’s Stazione Centrale (Central Station) and Largo Cairoli. From Thursday to Sunday, with two daily departures at 10.30am and 2.30pm. - Passante Ferroviario S13 (‘Locate di Triulzi’ Station) with a direct connection via metro line M1 at Porta Venezia, M2 at Porta Garibaldi and M3 at Repubblica and Rogoredo. Tangenziale Ovest (A50). Follow the signs to SS 412 Val Tidone. - Car Sharing "Sharengo"

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Duomo

Scala : 1:40 per formato A3

Linate Airport

Scala : 1:40 per formato A3

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SHOPPING point that, since 1907, has offered its clientele the best Made-in-Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêta-porter and ceremony attire both for men and women but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Via G. Verdi, 2. vallitessuti.com. T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Venini The art of glass-making. The new collections and the historic pieces of this brand founded in 1921 are showcased against a neutral, minimalist background. Via Montenapoleone, 10. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.venini.com. T: 02 76000539. M1 San Babila. Map F4

VIBRAM See this page.

10.30am-7.30pm. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 80581268. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda Valli Tessuti Alta Moda has opened its boutique in the famed Quadrilatero della Moda, just steps away from Teatro alla Scala. A Milanese reference

Ziio For more than 20 years, Ziio has created jewelry made from natural semi-precious stones, Murano glass and silver. Boasting a unique, original style, inspired by the oldest cultures in the world, each and every one of Ziio’s pieces are crafted by hand. From ‘vintage’ jewelry to new collections, presented at leading fairs in the sector across Europe, to more precious, unique pieces in gold and precious stones including rubies, emeralds and aquamarines, each product is strictly Made-in-Italy. The brand’s standalone boutique is located in the picturesque district

of Porta Nuova-Isola, a neighbourhood with a strong local heart where small shops cohabit side-by-side with some of Milan’s coolest hangouts. Open Mon-Fri: 10.30am-2.30pm/ 3pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. www.jewels-ziio.com. Via De Castillia, 20. T: 02 36706771. Map F1

SHOES Alfonso Garlando Tailor-made, Italian-style shoes are the protagonists at this charming boutique in the Brera district, which offers made-to-measure shoes for ladies and brides available in hundreds of different styles and a wide array of materials. Open Mon 12.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.alfonsogarlando.it. Via Madonnina, 1. T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Fratelli Rossetti Renowned throughout the world for their comfort and fit. These beautifully handcrafted shoes are a perfect mix of luxury and tradition, with an added touch of originality. Beautiful and stylish to boot. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.fratellirossetti.com. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Sergio Rossi Sergio Rossi awakens the femme fatale in every woman. Beautifully crafted, comfortable, eye-catching footwear designed for women in search of an iconic symbol of style. Each pair of shoes is checked for quality at least 120 times. Sergio Rossi also stocks handbags. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.sergiorossi.com. Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 76006140. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Vibram

Paradise of luxury and elegance FoxTown Factory Stores Mendrisio is a temple for shopping lovers, just an hour drive from Milan. The 160 prestigious boutiques offer an incredible shopping experience, with unmissable discounts from 30% to 70% all year round. International brands such as Armani, Bally, Prada, Burberry, Jimmy Choo, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Michael Kors, Andrè Maurice, Hugo Boss, Polo Ralph Lauren, Salvatore Ferragamo, Montblanc, Valentino, Saint Lauren are only some of the renowned labels hosted by FoxTown. Open daily from 11am to 7pm, FoxTown offers a culinary range for every taste, from Swiss specialties to appetizing snacks, a Casino and a Tourist InfoPoint. A Tax-Free Shopping service is available and payment is accepted by major credit cards as Union Pay, Visa, MasterCard, JCB, American Express, Visa Electron, and by Alipay online payment solution. FoxTown can be reached by the Shuttle Bus service operated by Zani Viaggi (www.zaniviaggi.it). Download FoxPrivilege App for free on your smartphone now and keep up with our news and offers, a world of privileges awaits! www.foxtown.com

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Milan’s first and unique Vibram ® store represents a benchmark for amateurs and professionals who are looking for products of high quality and performance. The store displays the entire range of Vibram FiveFingers ® offering customers the possibility of feeling the ground without giving up on protection, together with Vibram Furoshiki and other finished good products, plus a big variety of shoes produced by other brand partners, all characterized by a Vibram ® sole. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. vibram.com. Via R. Sanzio, 6. T: 02 36528461. M1 Buonarroti. Map B4

STATIONERY Pettinaroli Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, since its inseption Pettinaroli has been considered a reference point for funs and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and gifts items. Its boutique in the heart of Brera boasts a wide selection of maps and globes, an assortment of exclusive Italian handcrafted leather, writing paper, business cards and printed documents: the ideal location for a souvenir or collector's item. Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www. fpettinaroli.it. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 86464642-1875. M2 Lanza. Map F4

SHOPPING

Tiffany & Co.

DUOMO DISTRICT & MORE Piazza Duomo is also home to the largest Tiffany & Co. boutique in Europe.

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda

Milan’s historic centre is contained within a relatively small area which is now mostly closed to traffic, meaning that it’s easy to explore on foot. There’s no need to choose between planning a ‘cultural’ itinerary or a ‘shopping’ itinerary because you can combine the two and get the most out of both. In addition to being packed with several of Milan’s most famous attractions, this area is home to myriad shops, including big-name fashion brands, historic ‘botteghe’ and some of the city’s most sought-after cafés, bars and eateries. In the space of just a few kilometers you’ll find the Duomo, the Galleria, Teatro

alla Scala, the Castle, the ancient Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, as well as sporadic traces of ‘Roman Milan’, the first settlement and the predecessor of present-day Milan. AROUND THE DUOMO For the ultimate one-stop shopping experience look no further than the Rinascente flagship store (under the arcades): an amazing array of fashion items under just one roof! Just a little further on, the window displays of Rocca 1794 will seduce you with their collections of several of the world’s most desirable jewellery and watch brands.

TOWARDS TEATRO ALLA SCALA: THE GALLERIA Known as the ‘living room’ of Milan, the Galleria links Piazza del Duomo to piazza della Scala. For the past 150 years, it has been a meeting place for the Milanese and their guests. In the Galleria, haute couture takes centre stage. In addition to Prada and Versace, other standouts include Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Armani, Borsalino, Luisa Spagnoli, Bric’s, Tod’s, Stefanel and Massimo Dutti alternated with historic workshops (whose signs serve as an indication of their storied past). A reference point in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts is Valli Tessuti Alta Moda, with the perfect fabrics to make elegant outfits. You say ‘aperitivo’ and you immediately think of Camparino in Galleria, a landmark location and a reference point where Milan’s elite meet to partake in one of Italy’s oldest social traditions! Carlo Cracco’s new locale is spread over four floors and focuses on opulent aesthetic and culinary offerings, from breakfast to post-theatre dining. For those in search of a taste of tradition, located just nearby is Luini (renowned for its one-of-a-kind “panzerotti”). Conversely, those favouring a more sought-after gourmet experience can either opt to eat at Ristorante Galleria where you enjoy a taste of Milanese food and hospitality (for generations, the Galli family has defined Milanese hospitality in the Galleria!) or at Ristorante Savini, one of Milan’s most iconic landmark restaurants, or at the Marchesi alla Scala restaurant. Don’t miss the Lavazza flagship store, a space where coffee lovers can sample an authentic espresso and innovative coffee-based recipes.

VALLI TESSUTI ALTA MODA A reference point in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts. Located in via Verdi, just steps from Teatro alla Scala, here expert staff will assist you in the search for the perfect fabric to make elegant outfits, prêt-à-porter or formal wear. These fabrics are inspired by the patterns of the most up-todate haute couture collections. Valli stocks a wide assortment of exquisite fabrics for men (including pinstripes and prince of Wales check by Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana) and women (Valentino and Ungaro), as well as bolts of cloth to make coats and outerwear, shirts, accessories and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com Via G. Verdi, 2 - T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone

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[RINASCENTE]

One-stop shop

Shopping at its best

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE

For your shopping in the shadow of the Duomo head to the Rinascente flagship store

10 storeys featuring a refined, contemporary ambience where shoppers can find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design. Constant new arrivals from the most prestigious brands and emerging talents allow shoppers to find both timeless classics and the latest fashion trends. The basement floor houses the Design Supermarket, a floor devoted to design in its multiple expressions featuring a slew of articles carrying the signature of the greats of national and international designer: Alessi, Pantone and loads of others besides. The ground floor is a true emporium of beauty and prominent fragrance brands, featuring not only corners and a staff of expert makeup artists but also the jewellery area hosting precious collections of high jewelry.

Conversely, the balcony houses the luxury accessories of famed and fabled Italian and international brands. The store’s range of menswear fashion is spread over floors 1 and 2, featuring luxury, classical, smart and casual collections, plus the Men Shoe Heaven boasting sneakers and formal shoes by 23 different brands, while the 3rd and 4th floors are given over to women’s fashions (including the must-visit footwear area). The 5th floor is dedicated to lingerie and children’s fashion. Continuing upwards, you’ll reach the 6th floor devoted to homeware collections while the 7th floor houses the exclusive Food Hall hosting various themed restaurants (Basara, Obicà Mozzarella Bar, Il Bar, JUICEx, Maio Restaurant, Be Steak, De Santis, Champagnerie Moët & Chandon) and the

Food Market, where you can purchase any number of international delicacies. Discover the Wine Shop area which has been recently expanded: at this unique space dedicated to the finest wines on the Italian and international scene, you can taste and purchase the products of world-class producers. Visitors love this floor as it is the ideal place to find luxury food gifts and, what’s more, a fab panoramic terrace featuring a spectacular view over the spires of the Duomo. Visit also Annex Rinascente, the space devoted to streetwear adjacent to the main building and featuring more than 200 brands, which now features a totally re-designed men’s area. >> Rinascente - Piazza Duomo www.rinascente.it. Open 7 days a week. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 41

SHOPPING

Culti Milano

BRERA DISTRICT As an aside, those interested in bargains or bric à brac should definitely make time to visit the Mercatino di antiquariato e brocantage, held on the third Sunday of each month. The array of boutiques continues with the elegant artisan footwear sold by Iliprandi or the tailor-made, Italian-style shoes by Alfonso Garlando. Other points of interest include the elegant womenswear boutique Rosso35, Misani's artisanal jewels for him and for her, the original accessories by Angela Caputi Giuggiù and the unique leather accessories by the new Giosa Milano boutique in via Ciovasso, 6.

Culti Milano Angela Caputi Giuggiù Alfonso Garlando

Giosa Milano The Merchant of Venice Pettinaroli

Brera is synonymous with the artistic heart of the city. As you stroll along the streets of this ancient district, you cannot help but be enchanted by its almost surreal atmosphere boasting small artisans’ workshops or quaint stores selling canvases and paints. EDITOR'S TIP Additionally, Brera is home to the impressive Accademia di Belle Arti, where visitors can admire Milan’s famous painting collection at the Pinacoteca, the historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, the Museo Astronomico, the oldest scientific research institute in the city and the Giardino Botanico.

ART, SHOPPING AND ENTERTAINMENT To start your sightseeing tour on the right foot, we suggest stopping for a cup of coffee at Princi, not just an ordinary bakery, but a meeting point where, amidst the heady scents of “brioches” and “cappuccino”, you'll have a chance to begin your day on a high note. A reference point for antique lovers, Brera boasts numerous antique shops and art galleries. Among these, Pettinaroli, just relocated from its historic headquarters near the Duomo to no. 4 via Brera, offers a wide selection of maps and antique prints.

THE PERFUME DISTRICT At no. 4 via Brera, we find the The Merchant of Venice boutique, an historic perfumery epitomizing the art of Venetian perfumemaking offering a luxury line encompassing a wide range of exclusive perfumes for men and women contained in elegant bottles inspired by the tradition of the city’s famous hand-blown Murano glass (www.themerchantofvenice.com). Our next port of call is via Fiori Chiari, where we find the beautiful window displays of Culti Milano. The brand also has a boutique at no. 53 corso Venezia (www.culti.com). Other must-visits while in the area include Olfattorio Bar-à-Parfums (via Brera 5, www.olfattorio.it), Diptyque (via Brera 23, www.diptyqueparis.eu), Profumo (via Brera 6, www.profumomilano.com), the Amouage boutique (via Fiori Chiari 7, www.amouage.com), Dr.Vranjes (via Fiori Chiari 24, http://drvranjes.it), Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (via Madonnina, www. smnovella.com), Creed (via Madonnina 17, creed.cale.it), 9Nine (via Ponte Vetero 22, www.beautysanspa.com) and Fragonard (via Solferino 2, www.fragonard.com).

Surrounded by art galleries and goldsmiths’ workshops, at their atelier in via Ciovasso, Giorgio Santamaria and his son Gioele continue to write the history of high-end Milanese craftsmanship working with exclusive crocodile skins. Giosa offers customers a chance to become the designers of their creations, allowing them to choose from a wide range of precious crocodile skins, available in a remarkable array of colours and finishes. Customers can create their own unique, custom-made accessory inside the atelier’s historic vault under the guidance of expert artisans. www.giosamilano.com Via Ciovasso, 6 - T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza

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GIOSA MILANO

THE BEST OF BRERA DISTRICT ADVERTORIAL

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ The precious collections designed by Angela Caputi are a meld of fashion and art. Angela Caputi first established her exclusive workshop in Florence, in 1975, where she personally designs all her collections under the “Angela Caputi Giuggiù” brand name. Renowned throughout the world, her bijoux, made entirely by hand using synthetic resins, are an authentic expression of “Made-in-Italy” elegance. Sophisticated, original creations combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com Via Madonnina, 11 - T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza

ALFONSO GARLANDO Since 1971, Alfonso Garlando has been creating his footwear in the name of elegance and the high quality of artisanal, strictly “Made-in-Italy” products. Today, this tradition continues in the heart of Brera with unique, handcrafted items: hundreds of styles produced using premium quality fabrics and skins, for ceremonies, evenings and elegant events but also for comfortable, everyday wear. Customers can also find a collection of ton sur ton bags, belts and clutches, that can be customized according to individual tastes and requirements. www.alfonsogarlando.it Via Madonnina, 1 - T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza

PETTINAROLI Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, Pettinaroli has, since its inception, been considered a reference point for fans and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and gift items. On entering this unmistakably Milanese shop in via Brera, customers can breathe in the scent of the past, immersed in a timeless, old-world atmosphere. They can browse amongst shelves of writing paper and exquisite envelopes, historic maps and antique prints, and find numerous items associated with the sophisticated art of writing, including several of the world’s most prestigious fountain pens, leather diaries and planners, goose quill and wood pens. This unique shop also has an unmissable section dedicated to gift items: antique globes, 19th century vintage wood printing press letters, and customizable ex-libris. The jewel in the crown of this space is the magnificent collection of prints lining the wall at the back of the shop, visited daily by aficionados from all over the world. Today the business is run by Francesco Pettinaroli (right). Named after his grandfather, who founded the establishment, Francesco specializes in antique prints, a passion that has made him one of the world’s leading experts. www.fpettinaroli.it - www.pettinarolimapsandprints.com www.facebook.com/PettinaroliMilano Via Brera, 4. T: 02 86464642-1875. M3 Montenapoleone

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DINING

Gourmet dining… in a deli! The gastronomic tradition that has always distinguished Peck and the allure of a city that is on the up and up, both literally and figuratively, meet at Peck CityLife. By Giulia Minero

ocated in the shadow of CityLife’s futuristic towers, this new temple of taste comprises a delicatessen, a restaurant and a wine and cocktail bar designed to satisfy the expectations of a clientele who though, always on the go, is not prepared to sacrifice the pleasures of good cuisine at all hours of the day. In addition to a classic à la carte dining experience, featuring two different menus at lunch and dinner, including typical Milanese dishes like Saffron-flavoured risotto with ossobuco or Cotoletta alla Milanese, and a selection of antipasti like Vitello tonnato and Peck’s signature braesola, designed to be shared among fellow diners, Peck CityLife has introduced the concept of ‘Deli dining’ meaning that you can order off

the menu from everything that is displayed at the large counter at the entrance. Amidst mirrors and wooden ceilings decorated with lozenge-shaped elements, a modern counter with folding tables offers a more informal dining experience where you can watch the food being prepared. The wine bar, featuring displays and shelving to guarantee optimum storage of the wines, is the ideal place to choose from over 150 Italian and French wines and liqueurs, while those searching for unusual, contemporary flavours, can allow themselves to be seduced by the specialties offered at the cocktail station, where every drink is the result of the combination of the tradition dear to Peck and innovative mixology.

Peck CityLife, high-quality products in a temple of taste

46 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

>> Peck CityLife Piazza Tre Torri. Map C3 T: 02 36642660. www.peck.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/MILAN

Elegant and sophisticated, the handmade ‘Prestige’ gift box by NEUHAUS is ideal for all occasions. A symphony of the authentic flavours of Belgian tradition.

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE Cantina Piemontese A top-level “trattoria” with a welcoming atmosphere situated in a beautiful corner of Milan just a short distance from the Duomo. Originally a winery with a prestigious tradition, this charming bistrot furnished in 1930s style offers diners a choice of classic regional cuisine from all over Italy. Certified by the Italian association for celiac disease. Closed on Sun. €€. www.cantina-piemontese.it. Via Laghetto, 2. T: 02 784618. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5

Don Lisander For more than sixty years, a fashionable restaurant situated right in the heart of Milan, just a short distance from the Teatro alla Scala. An elegant atmosphere and impeccable service. The menu features traditional Lombardy and regional Italian cuisine. The speciality of the house is risotto. For dessert, also try the chestnut semifreddo with persimmon sauce. €€€. www.ristorantedonlisander.it. Via A.Manzoni, 12/A. T: 02 76020130. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Galleria Situated halfway between the Duomo and La Scala, Galleria offers elegant inside and outside dining, the perfect place to enjoy Italian style hospitality, from a simple espresso to the cuisine or mouth watering. Established as a mid twentieth century café, today Galleria is also a stylish restaurant and pizzeria featuring a traditional wood-fired pizza oven. Open 365 days a year from 8am to 1am. Live music after 7. €€. www.ristorantegalleria.it Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

Savini Spread out over three floors in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, for the past 150 years Savini has been one of Milan’s most iconic, landmark restaurants. A favourite haunt of several of the world’s most legendary figures, it continues to be the place where the local elite gather after a night at the opera. Credit for its enduring reputation goes to its blend of tradition and innovation, exemplified by the contemporary cuisine of Executive Chef Giovanni Bon. Its wine cellar, boasting more than 800 labels from all over the world, deserves a special mention. Open Mon-Fri 12-noon to 2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm and Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€€€. www.savinimilano.it. Via U. Foscolo, 5 (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Mieru Mieru All the warmth of a typical Puglia welcome awaits you in Milan’s Navigli district. A sort of ‘protected culinary area’ where, thanks to the hospitality offered by it owners (restaurateurs for generations), diners will feel completely at home. It offers a menu infused with the ‘aromas of the

sea and the land’, sourcing what they have to offer on a daily basis. An ideal location for those who love fresh flavours in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Those wishing to enjoy the ‘scent of the sea’ and a taste of Puglia before dinner can do so while sampling a glass of good wine accompanied by a tantalizing assortment of seafood snacks. Special gluten free menu. Open Mon-Sat 7pm-midnight. Reservation for lunch. €€. www.mierumieru.it. Via Magolfa, 14. T: 02 89406320. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E7

Torre The panoramic restaurant, designed to accommodate up to 84 diners, is arranged on three levels of the Torre, inside the Fondazione Prada complex. The decorative elements and artworks covering the walls are by several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists, while the top floor features original furnishings from the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York, designed by Philip Johnson in 1958. The outdoor terrace echoes the porphyry flooring and metal grids characterizing the Foundation’s exteriors, which extend over a surface area of 125 square metres. The seventh floor also hosts a Chef’s table, a private area with a view of the kitchens and a private terrace. The restaurant’s gastronomic concept is based on an Italian menu and traditional regional cuisine, accompanied by a prestigious selection of wines. €€€. www.fondazioneprada.org. Via G. Lorenzini, 14. T: 02 23323910. M3 Lodi. Map G7

Valentino Vintage Restaurant Situated inside a historic 17th century building in the heart of Milan, just steps from the Quadrilatero della Moda, this restaurant offers traditional Italian cuisine in a warm, elegant setting. Its atmosphere, inspired by movie icon Rodolfo Valentino, is infused with an old-world charm reminiscent of the Belle Epoque. Its cuisine is deeply rooted in Italy’s culinary traditions and melds typical Mediterranean dishes, created thanks to the use of only the highest-quality ingredients, with innovative flavours, resulting from creative experimentation. The restaurant also boasts an impressive wine list. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm; Sat 7pm-11pm. Closed on Sun. €€. www.valentinovintage.it. Corso Monforte, 16. T: 02 76394369. M1 San Babila. Map G4

INTERNATIONAL & ETHNIC CUISINE Denzel One of the few truly Kosher restaurants in Milan, serving an international fish and meat menu of delicate contrast. Traditions of the Middle East, America, Asia and South America are combined in delectable, tasty dishes, in a welcoming ambience. It uses only the finest ingredients and rigorously follows the rules of Kashrut. Closed on Friday evening and on Sat. €€. www.denzel.it. Via G. Washington, 9. T: 02 48519326. M1 Wagner. Map C4

Bakeries in Milan Don’t call them bread shops! Milan’s bakeries have rediscovered the use of whole meal flours, ancient grains and traditional bread making techniques, usually under the guidance of a ‘master baker’. By Chiara Zaccarelli CROSTA A bakery with a pizzeria in the Porta Venezia district, in a contemporary, elegant ambience. You can enjoy breakfast on freshly-baked cakes and pastries in the morning, purchase bread and sample pizza on the peel at lunch and throughout the day, while at dinner, there’s pan pizza, in traditional or contemporary version. Via Bellotti, 13 (corner of via Kramer). T: 02 38248570. Map H4 MARIA MARINONI This historic business, characterized by its unique blend of tradition and innovation, has provided the Milanese with bread since 1903. At a time when this concept had not been heard of, Marinoni was the first bakery to introduce a bakery-café combo. Located in a strategic position, inside Cadorna Station, it turns out a variety of bread, foccacia, pizzas, cakes, pastries and other delicacies throughout the day. Piazza Cadorna, 10. www.facebook.com/MariaMarinoni. T:02860574 . MapE4 LE POLVERI A tiny, 50-square meter bakery owned by former chemist turned baker Aurora Zancanaro. At this light-filled ‘bottega’, you can purchase all types of bread (with sesame seeds, walnuts, almonds, chocolate and pumpkin), focacce, oven-baked goods and pizza. All its specialties are based on time-honoured recipes. www.lepolveri.com. via Ausonio, 7. Map D5 PANIFICIO DAVIDE LONGONI At his two Milanese stores you can purchase all types of bread including naturally leavened loaves, sourdoughs, bread made from stone-milled organic flours and ancient grains. In addition to purchasing bread, you can also get a cappuccino, stop by for lunch or an aperitivo in the evening. www.davidelongonipane.com Via Tiraboschi, 19. Map H6 Mercato del Suffragio, Piazza Santa Maria del Suffragio. Map H5 More on www.wheremilan.com/guide w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 47

DINING not only. Here you can find elegant pralines, chocolate bars, assorted dragées or fruit preserves, delightful gifts that are perfect for any occasion, also thanks to the store’s elegant, unmistakable packaging. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.armanidolci.com. Via Manzoni, 31. T: 02 62312686. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Cova Pasticceria

VALENTINO VINTAGE See page 47.

TASTING EXPERIENCE

Founded in 1817, by none other than one of Napoleon’s soldiers, this is one of the Milan’s oldest pasticceria, an iconic place where tradition meets elegance and style. On the occasion of the 200th anniversary, the venue has recently re-opened following a careful renovation preserving the original Cova signature look. Established as a pasticceria, it also offers a morning espresso, a Milanese-style risotto, an afternoon tea with artisanal pasticcini and pralines or an evening aperitivo. The famous handmade Panettone, signature product of Cova and a jealousy-guarded recipe, is available all year long. Open Mon-Sat 7.45am-8.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.covamilano.com. Via Montenapoleone, 8. T: 02 76005599. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Armani/Dolci

Lavazza

Via Manzoni 31 is possibly the most glamorous address for Milanese patisserie: Armani/Dolci is a location dedicated by world-renowned designer Giorgio Armani to the world of chocolate and

Italian coffee expert Lavazza has opened its first flagship store in Milan. A go-to destination where coffee lovers can experience the very best that the world of Lavazza coffee has to offer throughout the

day. This beautifully designed location offers four different experiential options: the “Caffetteria” where visitors can savor an authentic espresso, a “Slow Coffee” area to taste different types of coffee extraction systems, a “Fresh Roasted” area where precious single origins are roasted and blended on site, and the “Coffee Design” area where innovative food design meets the world of coffee in new and surprising flavour combinations, created with top international chefs. Open Mon-Thurs 8am-7.30pm; Fri 8am-8pm; Sat-Sun 9am-8pm. www.lavazza.it/flagshipstore. Piazza San Fedele, 2. T: 342 8411682. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Marchesi 1824 Pralines and homemade pastries, biscuits and panettone, “veneziana”, chocolates, sweets and over thirty different types of cream cakes, cannoncini and éclairs. It still retains its original early nineteenth century atmosphere and has a counter at which you can drink a cup of coffee accompanied by tiny, mouth watering treats. Pastries baked fresh on a daily basis and for the holiday season. A truly tantalizing experience! Open Mon 7.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 7.30am-8pm; Sun 8.30am-7.30pm. www.pasticceriamarchesi. com. Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11/a. T: 02 876730. M1 Cairoli. Map E4 • Open daily 7.30am-9pm. Via Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76008238. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 • Open daily 7.30am9pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 94181710. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Neuhaus Maître Chocolatier In Milan, the famous school of Belgium chocolate boasts one of its most famous brands: the Neuhaus shop is a small treasure trove where pralines – more than 100 varieties that arrive fresh, each week, from Belgium – are displayed in cases like precious jewels, alongside bars with dried fruits, characteristic letters of the alphabet and greeting cards, all made exclusively from chocolate. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.neuhaus-cioccolato.it. Via San Vittore, 6. T: 02 72000096. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

Noberasco 1908

Peck, a great wine cellar All Milanese locals know that Peck is a point of reference for the most soughtafter gastronomic delicacies. For the past 136 years, it has offered a selection of the best international culinary delights as well as a vast wine cellar which houses over 3,000 bottles including some historic labels and impressive vintages. Its cellar, built up over the years with passion and dedication, is a true paradise for wine lovers. The most important wineries from every region of Italy but also from France, Spain, Germany and many other countries are showcased here. Red, white, rosé, dessert wines, ‘spumanti’, champagnes and spirits. Every rack hides carefully selected treasures including world-class wines, aged wines, rare and large format bottles, vertical collections of some outstanding labels, plus a selection of the finest spirits. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. www.peck.it/en/great-wine-cellar

48 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

King of dry fruit Noberasco 1908 instantly sealed its success as a reference point for discerning palates and lovers of natural tastes: its products are sourced from all over the world and include a flotilla of the rarest, most delicious culinary delights. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Mon 11am-7.30pm. www.noberasco.it. Via Spadari. T: 02 99201022. M1 Cordusio, M1-M3 Duomo. Map F2

Peck A paradise for food lovers. At this high-class delicatessen, for years an authentic temple of Milanese taste, you will find the best of Italian excellence, from cured meats to sauces, from wines to liqueurs, from cheeses to olive oil. Spread out over three floors, Peck is also a great place for an unforgettable stopover. The search for quality is Peck’s primary aim, achieved through a careful selection of products from all over the world. Don’t miss the “Piccolo Peck”, a gastronomic café at the ground floor reminding a Viennese café of the 30s, where you can relax and taste several specialties. Open Mon 3pm-8pm; Tues-Fri 9am-8pm; Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 10am-5pm. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Advertorial

Tradition and innovation

since 1867

Since Savini first opened in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, it has maintained the timeless

Ristorante Savini Milano 1867

elegance of the Belle Époque. Savini was the favourite haunt of some of the world’s

Via Ugo Foscolo, 5. T: +39 02 72003433. prenotazioni@savinimilano.it www.savinimilano.it

most illustrious names, including Verdi, Puccini, Toscanini, Maria Callas, Eleonora Duse and Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, who wrote the Manifest of the Futurist Movement here. Savini recently celebrated its 150th anniversary and boasts a continually evolving legacy in which tradition and innovation are intertwined. In 2007, the Gatto family PHOTOS © ANDREA DI LORENZO

took over the reins of this Milanese landmark restaurant, which is now divided into two spaces: a café/bistro and a restaurant. The café/bistro – open throughout the day – can be accessed from the Galleria and is the ideal place to enjoy a cup of coffee, tea or an aperitivo, while the restaurant is located on the first floor. Here, amidst period furnishings and soft lighting, you can opt for a traditional or more contemporary menu, signed by chef Giovanni Bon. For an impressive business lunch, in an elegant, historic setting, the restaurant offers a business lunch formula, featuring a choice of gourmet dishes.

Giovanni Bon - The chef’s kingdom is the restaurant’s modern, open-plan kitchen. Part Brianzolo and part Veneto, Savini’s Executive Chef Giovanni Bon, whose resume includes work experience at several of Italy’s and the world’s most celebrated restaurants, has made this space his culinary domain of choice. Bon combines traditional recipes with innovative techniques and creativity. Key features of his culinary expertise include the selection of raw materials, respect for the seasons and locally sourced products and cuisine that becomes art, research and flavour. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 49

[ TA S T I N G E X P E R I E N C E ]

Dining by district DUOMO DISTRICT CANTINA PIEMONTESE — www.cantina-piemontese.it. “Top-level” trattoria offering tradition Italian regional cuisine. Via Laghetto, 2. T: 02 784618. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5 CRACCO — www.ristorantecracco.it Milanese cuisine with a contemporary twist. Four floors of sheer culinary heaven. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 876774. M1- M3 Duomo. Map F4 FELICE A TESTACCIO — feliceatestaccio.it. Roman cuisine since 1936. Via del Torchio, 4. T: 02 80506690. M3 Missori. Map E5 GALLERIA — www.ristorantegalleria.it Stylish restaurant and traditional wood-fired pizza. Galleria Vittorio Emanule II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 IL RISTORANTE TRUSSARDI ALLA SCALA — www.trussardiallascala.com. Top-rate cuisine and outstanding interior design. Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 80688201. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 IL VERZIERE C/O NH COLLECTION MILANO PRESIDENT — nh-collection.com. The finest Italian and international cuisine in an elegant atmosphere. Largo Augusto, 10. T: 02 77461. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5 PECK — www.peck.it. Iconic temple of Milanese taste. Every Sunday typical lunch. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

atmosphere. Via A. Manzoni, 29. T: 02 72314640. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 LA VERANDA C/O FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MILANO— www.fourseasons. com/milan. Ultra-luxurious restaurant, Mediterranean cuisine, summer outdoor seating. Via Gesù, 6/8. T: 02 77081478. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 NOBU MILAN — www.noburestaurants.com Armani style with traditional Japanese cuisine. Via G. Pisoni, 1. T: 02 62312645. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 SETA C/O MANDARIN ORIENTAL MILAN — www.mandarinoriental.it. Fine dining restaurant in a beautiful setting. Michelinstarred restaurant. Via Monte di Pietà, 16-18. T: 02 87318897. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

BRERA DISTRICT RIGOLO — www.ristoranterigolo.it. Lombardy cuisine with a trattoria-like feel. Largo Treves corner of via Solferino, 11. T: 02 86463220. M2 Moscova. Map F3

NAVIGLIPORTA GENOVA DISTRICT MIERU MIERU — www.mierumieru.it A taste of Puglia with the aromas of the sea and the land. Via Magolfa, 14. T: 02 89406320. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E7

RISTORANTE SAVINI — www.savinimilano.it Gourmet flavours in the Galleria. Via U. Foscolo, 5 (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

TANO PASSAMI L’OLIO — www.tanopassamilolio.it. Creative cuisine based on extra virgin olive oil with a Mediterranean flare. Michelin-starred restaurant. Via Villoresi 16, corner of via Pastorelli. T: 02 8394139. M2 Porta Genova. Map C7

MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT

ISOLA DISTRICT

ARMANI/RISTORANTE C/O ARMANI HOTEL MILANO — www.armanihotelmilano.com. Highclass cuisine in a vibrant atmosphere. Via Manzoni, 31. T: 02 88838888. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 DON CARLOS C/O GRAND HOTEL ET DE MILAN — www.ristorantedoncarlos.it Traditional Italian cuisine in a sophisticated

BERBERÈ — www.berberepizza.it Select pizzas with a focus on vegetarian specialities. Via Sebenico, 21. T: 02 36707820. M5 Isola. Map F1 RATANÀ — www.ratana.it. Creative Lombardy cuisine in an historic location. Via G. de Castillia, 28. T: 02 87128855. M2 Gioia, M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F1

PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT VIVA VIVIANA VARESE RISTORANTE C/O EATALY SMERALDO — www.aliceristorante.it. Mediterranean high-quality cuisine. Michelin-starred restaurant. Piazza XXV Aprile, 10. T: 02 49497340. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

For over 150 years RISTORANTE SAVINI has taken diners on a fabulous culinary journey through the traditional flavours of Italian cuisine.

50 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2019

From appetizers to dessert, NOBU MILANO offers a menu that blends traditional Japanese cuisine with Peruvian and Italian influences.

TRE CRISTI MILANO — www.trecristimilano.com Historic restaurant offering Mediterraneanbased cuisine. Via Galileo Galilei, 5 corner of via Marco Polo. T: 02 29062923. M3 Repubblica. Map G2 RISTORANTE BERTON — www.ristoranteberton.it. Essential haute cuisine. Michelin-starred restaurant. Via della Liberazione, 13. T: 02 67075801. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS, M3 Repubblica. Map F2

VERCELLIBELFIORE DISTRICT DENZEL — www.denzel.it Kosher restaurant in a welcoming ambience. Via G. Washington, 9. T: 02 48519326. M1 Wagner. MapC4

STAZIONE CENTRALE DISTRICT ACANTO RESTAURANT C/O HOTEL PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA — dorchestercollection.com. Classic Italian cuisine by chef Alessandro Buffolino. Piazza della Repubblica, 17. T: 02 62302026. M3 Repubblica. Map G2 SOULGREEN — www.soulgreen.com. An innovative bistro offering gluten-free fare and plant-based products. Piazzale Principessa Clotilde corner of via Vespucci. T: 02 62695162. M3 Repubblica, M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 STK MILAN — Modern steakhouse and elegant lounge. Piazza della Repubblica, 13. T: 02 84220110. M3 Repubblica. Map G2

SEMPIONE DISTRICT PECK — www.peck.it. The best of Italian wine and food in the new iconic district of Milan. CityLife Shopping District. Piazza Tre Torri. T: 02 36642660. M5 Tre Torri. Map C2 TERRAZZA TRIENNALE  OSTERIA CON VISTA — www.osteriaconvista.it High-quality cuisine by Stefano Cerveni, friendly atmosphere, panoramic view. Viale Alemagna, 6. T: 02 36644340. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D3

Milano

FELICE A TESTACCIO Roman cuisine since 1936

Via del Torchio, 4 - Milan PHONE +39 0280506690

ENTERTAINMENT

The Giuseppe Verdi Symphony Orchestra conduced by Claus Peter Flor

A month of great music by laVerdi With concerts for orchestra and violin, starred international appearances and performances dedicated to the great classics, the Auditorium affirms its status as a temple of symphony music. By Giulia Minero

n November, Milan’s Auditorium offers a star-studded 2019/2020 symphony season of orchestral delights. The season kicks off in great style under the baton of Spanish Maestro Josep Vicent (7-8-10 November) who will be conducting the Giuseppe Verdi Symphony Orchestra of Milan for the first time as part of a program titled ‘Dall'ombra alla luce’. This is a figurative representation of the eternal fight between good and evil, suspended between the past and present. The concert includes masterpieces like ‘A Night on Bald Mountain’, a symphonic poem by Mussorgsky, Stravinsky’s score for the ‘Firebird’ ballet, and Michael Nyman’s ‘Concert for Trombone’. On 15 and 17 November, famous love stories, featuring quotes and characters taken from poems by Dante, Shakespeare and Molière, come alive to the notes of Tchaikovsky and Strauss 52 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

at a concert titled “Amor, ch’a nullo amato amar perdona” conducted by Maestro Jader Bignamini. The assignment of ending the Auditorium’s monthly program (22 and 24 November) is entrusted to renowned conductor Claus Peter Flor who will treat audiences to a classic of 19th century tradition, Bruckner’s ‘Symphony no. 3 in D Minor’. With this concert, the Verdi Orchestra will also anticipate the 250th anniversary of Beethoven’s birth, scheduled to be celebrated in 2020, with the Hungarian violinist Barnabas Kelemen, invited to perform Beethoven’s lyrical ‘Violin Concerto in D Major Op. 61’ as an example of a unique dialogue between a solo violin and the orchestra. >> laVerdi – Auditorium di Milano Largo Mahler M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E7 www.laverdi.org

Jader Bignamini

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APERITIVI

AFTER DINNER

Ceresio 7

Eppol Milano

Owned by fashion brand Dsquared2, this locale is one of the places to be on Milan’s nightlife scene. The venue is a hotspot for the city’s beau monde who flock here to enjoy a glamorous aperitivo on the rooftop of an old 1930s industrial building. In addition to two panoramic swimming pools, the venue boasts an unparalleled view over Porta Nuova and its skyscrapers. Ceresio 7’s Happy Hour includes a series of signature cocktails accompanied by classic finger food. It’s ultra-popular so don’t even think of going there without booking! Open daily 12.30pm-1am. www.ceresio7.com. Via Ceresio, 7. T: 02 31039221. M5 Monumentale. Map E2

Located in the increasingly vibrant Porta Venezia district, Eppol combines a graphic, artistic Milanese background with an atmosphere reminiscent of a 1930s American speakeasy. Décor highlights include exposed brickwork, plant-covered walls, crystal chandeliers and a counter reminiscent of New York locales. Eppol is a bistro and cocktail bar renowned for its painstaking attention to the choice of ingredients. Though oriented towards mixology, its cocktail menu is inventive but not overly experimental. Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-1am; Sat-Sun 9.30am-1am. www.eppolmilano.com. Via M. Malpighi, 7. T: 320 0266560. Map H3

Fioraio Bianchi Caffè

Nottingham Forest

At this charming retro, Parisian-style bistrot, located in the equally picturesque Brera district, you can enjoy a cocktail or a glass of wine, surrounded by myriad varieties of plants and flowers (on sale), artfully stripped walls and exposed brickwork ceilings. At the aperitivo hour, you can order a cocktail or a glass of wine from the venue’s rich menu, accompanied by a buffet of vegetables, meatballs and other tasty nibbles. Open Mon-Sat 8am-midnight. www.fioraiobianchicaffe.it. Via Montebello, 7. T: 02 29014390. Map F3

Included in the list of 50 best bars in the world, this locale is a true mecca for cocktail enthusiasts. Go there if you enjoy experimentation and are not afraid of unusual consistencies, gelatins, resins, sprouts and molecular essences. Here, amidst Buddhas, Tiki statues, African masks and tropical plants, you’ll find a diverse clientele, all sharing a common objective: a desire to sample unusual, innovative cocktails. A word to the wise: be patient, the place is tiny, there’s always a large queue outside, and they don’t let large groups in. Open Tues-Sat 6.30pm-2am; Sun 6pm-1am. www.nottingham-forest.com. Viale Piave, 1. T: 02 798312. M1 Palestro. Map H3

N'Ombra de Vin This historic Milanese wine bar, located in a picturesque corner of Milan, next to the Basilica of San Marco, in a one-time 16th century refectory, is packed with customers from aperitivo hour till late at night. A wine bar, bistro and gastro bar rolled into one, it offers a list of prestigious wines with a focus on French labels. In summer, the pavement behind the locale teems with a relaxed crowd of punters. Open daily 10am-2pm. www.winebarnombradevin. it. Via San Marco, 2. T: 02 6599650. M2 Lanza. Map F3

Otto The signature dish at this light-filled, highly instagrammable space, is its ‘quadrotto’, squareshaped slice of bread topped with fresh ingredients. Otto is located in the heart of Chinatown, amidst plants and second-hand pieces of furniture. The venue’s aperitivo menu includes a selection of unique, spicy cocktails flavoured with ginger, matcha or lemon grass, as well as the classics, plus a selection of wines and craft beers. At Happy Hour (no buffet included), customers can accompany their drinks with an assortment of platters or dishes all prepared on the same day with high-quality ingredients. Open Tues-Sun 10am-2am; Sun 7pm2am. www.sarpiotto.com. Via P. Sarpi, 8. Map E2

Rita & Cocktails Listed among Italy’s Top 10 cocktail bars, Rita & Cocktails is a great classic on the Milanese cocktail scene. Located on the Naviglio Grande, in a corner that is delightfully detached from the frenzy of the ‘movida’, this locale is a hot favourite with customers from the aperitivo hour until late at night. Behind the counter, longtime owner Edoardo Nono and his partners serve evocatively named cocktails, inspired by their travels around the world. The cocktails, made using only the freshest, primequality ingredients, are accompanied by crudité, canapés and small tasting dishes prepared on-site by the locale’s chef. If you prefer to down a beer and gorge yourself on buffet food, we suggest you head elsewhere. Open daily 6.30pm-2am. Via A. Fumagalli, 1. T: 02 8372865. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map D6

Radio Rooftop Bar This Milanese hotspot, located on the tenth floor of the Me Milan Il Duca hotel, overlooking Piazza della Repubblica, attracts an international clientele and offers a remarkable array of classic cocktails. From sunset onwards, plus points include a breathtaking view over the city, in particular, the Porta Nuova district and its skyscrapers. Another key feature is the music – generally sophisticated house that warms the atmosphere without interrupting conversation. Open Sun-Wed 7pm-1am; Thurs-Sat 7pm-1am. radiorooftop.com. Via Marco Polo, 18. T: 02 84220109. Map G2

Surfer's Den Located on the outskirts of Milan, this charming venue is hidden inside a sports complex and immersed in a semi-wild garden of roses, hydrangeas and surfboards. It’s so far removed from the hustle and bustle of city life that after you’ve sampled one of their cocktails, expertly mixed by its master bartender, you’ll start smelling the sea. Please Note: since this is a sports complex you need a valid annual pass to get in. The pass costs approximately €10. www.surfersden.it. Piazza Caduti del Lavoro, 1. T: 338 5916764. Off Map

The Spirit We’re on the outskirts of Porta Romana, another area that recently saw the opening of numerous locales. As everyone knows, the most unexpected places are always well hidden. In order to gain access to The Spirit, you need to pass through a black, studded door, with a porthole in the middle. Once inside, you’ll find yourself immersed in an ambience reminiscent of a luxurious speakeasy, amidst mahogany counters, velvet sofas, mirrors and lighting adding a touch of intimacy and glamour. The drinks list includes high-quality wines and champagnes, exclusive spirits, the world’s best whiskies, aged bourbons and rare Mezcals, all served by expert bartenders. Open Thurs-Sun 6pm-2am. www.thespirit.it. Via Piacenza, 15. T: 02 84570612. Map G7

ALL CONCERTS ON THE CALENDAR WILL BE HELD AT AUDITORIUM DI MILANO FONDAZIONE CARIPLO, LARGO GUSTAV MAHLER. www.laverdi.org

SYMPHONIC SEASON › 1, 3 November Messa da Requiem Music by Giuseppe Verdi. Alfonso Taianin, chorus master Claus Peter Flor, conductor › 7, 8, 10 November Dall’ombra alla luce Music by Musorgskij,Nyman and Stravinskij. Giuliano Rizzotto, trombone Joseph Vincent, conductor › 15, 17 (4.30pm) November Amor ch’a nullo amato amar perdona Music by Čajkovskij and Strauss. Jader Bignamini, conductor › 17 November Serata Polacca (Extraordinary Concert) Music by Arcangelo Corelli, Ludwig van Beethoven, Ignacy Paderewski, Henryk Wieniawski and Karol Szymanowski. Aleksandra Kuls, violin Marcin Koziak, piano › 22, 24 November Beethoven, Concerto per violino Music by Beethoven and Bruckner. Barnabás Kelemen, violin Claus Peter Flor, conductor › 26 November Vivaldi – Glass ( Extraordinary Concert) Music by Vivaldi and Glass. Ensemble laBarocca Robert McDuffie, violin Ruben Jais, conductor › 28, 29 November and 1 January Cenerentola Music by Fryderyk Chopin and Sergej Prokof'ev. Boris Petrushansky, piano Aziz Shokhakimov, conductor

CHAMBER MUSIC › 3 November Pensieri al piano at Teatro Gerolamo Music by Ludwig van Beethoven, Robert Schumann and Petr Il'ič Čajkovskij. Irina Kravchenko, piano

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

When Italy meets Japan Two far-off lands become closer than ever thanks to the ‘Oriente MUDEC’ (‘MUDEC East’) project, which documents the reciprocal exchanges between Japan and Europe. By Giulia Minero

54 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

an in-depth analysis of the story of the diplomat Itō Mancio and the first Japanese embassies in Europe between 1585 and 1615. In addition to historical documents, the exhibition showcases Chinese and Japanese objet d’art, including silks, fabrics, kimonos and masks, plus a part of Count Passalacqua’s Collection, one of the key exhibits of the museum’s permanent collection. Conversely, the exhibition ‘Impressions of the East. Art and Collecting between Europe and Japan’, featuring some 170 works of art, chronicles the fascination that Japan and its leading artists, including Hokusai, Hiroshige and Utamaro, exercised on western culture, influencing the artistic production of renowned artists like Rodin, Van Gogh, Gauguin, ToulouseLautrec, Monet, De Nittis and Segantini.

>> Oriente MUDEC Until 20 February 2020 Via Tortona, 56. M2 Porta Genova F.S T: 02 54917. Map C6

t the beginning of the 16th century, the western world began to take an interest in the Far East, particularly that unknown, far-off country called Japan. As time went by, Japanese exoticism became a huge source of inspiration for 19th century artists and intellectuals. Today, the appeal of the Land of the Rising Sun has become the focal point of ‘Oriente MUDEC’, a project comprising two exhibitions scheduled to run until 20 February 2020. The project analyses relations between Europe and Japan during the course of the centuries, as well as Western influence on Japanese culture and vice-versa. The exhibition ‘When Japan Discovered Italy. Stories of Encounters (1585-1890)' examines the onset of relationships between Italy and Japan, with

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FREE WITH Enjoy Milan with the "all inclusive" city pass. www.themilanpass.com - infoline: +39 02 867131

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Ambrosiana, Picture Gallery and Library The Ambrosiana picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and includes “The Musician”, attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of Fruit”. The Ambrosiana library contains one million books including manuscripts and prints. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Castello Sforzesco The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it houses a number of interesting museums and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Open daily 7am-6pm (winter time); 7am-7.30pm (summer time); Thurs 7am-10.30pm. Free admission. www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map E4

Duomo Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church, constructed on and off over a period of 450 years (begun 1386) is the symbol of Milan. The cathedral is open daily 8am-7pm. The recently renovated Museo del Duomo (10am-6pm) houses hundreds of works of art dating from the 15th century to the present day. MAJESTIC TERRACES To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps) where you will be surrounded by an outburst of pinnacles and the famed golden “Madonnina”. www.duomomilano.it. Piazza Duomo. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 FREE WITH

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II The Galleria with its elegant, four-storey arcade, housing over 55 luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola and measures 196

metres in length. Tradition has it that placing your right heel on the bull, depicted in the mosaic on the floor, and then spinning around inside it, will bring good luck. Don’t miss the Leonardo3-The World of Leonardo da Vinci exhibition with new discoveries: codices, machines, paintings and drawings (from Piazza della Scala at the entrance of the Galleria. Audio guide in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish. Open daily 9.30am-10.30pm. T: 02 49519981. www.leonardo3.net). Map F4

Last Supper (The) One of the most famous attractions in the world, the “Cenacolo” by Leonardo da Vinci is a large 15th century mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. It can be found in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Reservation required. www. cenacolovinciano.net. Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2. T: 02 92800360. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Conciliazione. Map D4 FREE WITH

HOP ON HOP OFF TOUR on panoramic open-topped red ou r u n o r stops and multi-lingual commentary. A new electric bus is available www.milano.city-sightseeing.it

Montenapoleone District Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations. M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila. Map F4-G4

Navigli District The Navigli are a widespread network of canals whose history is linked to the genius of Leonardo da Vinci. One of the most vibrant districts in the city, it boasts small artisan workshops and painter’s studios reminiscent of those found on the left bank in Paris. Don’t miss a visit to the Darsena, renewed a few years ago. You can reach the Navigli with the new D Line of the CitySightseeing Milano (Navigli stop, from 2.30pm to 6pm). Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 4. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E6

Porta Nuova District Three glass towers and a piazza elevated six metres above the street, near the Garibaldi Railway Station and the ultra-trendy Corso Como: the scenic piazza Gae Aulenti is an innovative business hub hosting new boutiques. Via Melchiorre Gioia-Corso Como and surrounding area. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

St. Ambrose Basilica One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built by St Ambrose (patron of the city) in 379-386

A.D., in an area where numerous martyrs had been buried. The church is a wonderful example of Romanesque style. Free admission. www. basilicasantambrogio.it. Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15. T: 02 86450895. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map E5

Teatro alla Scala A few steps from the Duomo, the Teatro alla Scala - designed by Piermarini - was inaugurated in 1778 with an opera by Antonio Salieri. Most of Italy’s greatest operatic artists and many of the finest singers from around the world have appeared at La Scala during the past 200 years. Lying adjacent to the theatre, the Museo Teatrale ( FREE WITH ) and the Scala Shop (T: 02 45483257) are not to be missed destinations for ballet and opera lovers. www.teatroallascala. org. Piazza della Scala. T: 02 72003744. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

The Milan Pass (69€) includes:

ENJOY MILAN WITH THE “ALL INCLUSIVE” CITY PASS T

r off r o u u on n r n por on and restaurants in Milan.

www.themilanpass.com - Infoline: +39 02 867131

• a nominative pass • a book of vouchers for admission and discounts for a total value of over 400€ • a map of the city Where to purchase The Milan Pass: • on the www.themilanpass.com website • at the Milan Visitor Center • from leading international tour operators • at hotels and participating facilities • on board CitySightseeing buses

ours

48h

The

bes

t for

less

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 55

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ambrosiana Picture Gallery The Ambrosiana picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and includes “The Musician”, attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of Fruit”. Don't miss the "Leonardo da Vinci tour" organized by Zani Viaggi (www.zaniviaggi.it). Open Tues-Sun 9am-7pm. Admission fee €15, €10 for the adjacent Bramante Sacristy, €20 for group tickets. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala

Vega lands at the museum Vega, the European Space Agency’s launch vehicle, designed to send small satellites into Low Earth Orbit, has joined the collection at Milan’s Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia. The 1:1 scale model of Vega measures 30 meters in height and 3 meters in diameter. Vega – one of the most significant examples of European collaboration in the field of space – has been operative since 2012 with a total of 15 launches. This initiative is part of a program designed to enhance the museum’s Astronomy and Space Area, where visitors can immerse themselves in the stories and technology dedicated to space exploration. In addition to original, unique objects, interactive experiences, detailed focuses and fun facts, visitors can admire the only fragment of moon rock found in Italy, collected during the Apollo 17 mission in 1972, and the Merz-Repsold refractor telescope, one of the largest in the world. Furthermore, thanks to a reconstruction in the area dedicated to the International Space Station (ISS), visitors can observe images of an entire orbit around the Earth and discover one of the most fascinating research laboratories in the world. www.museoscienza.org

56 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

MUST-SEE The Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala are housed in three historic buildings overlooking Milan’s elegant via Manzoni, piazza della Scala and via Morone. Two buildings host masterpieces of 19th century Italian art from the collections of Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa Sanpaolo: the opulent Neo-classical rooms of Palazzo Anguissola and the 19th century Palazzo Brentani. A new section features 20th century masterpieces from the Intesa Sanpaolo collections. Open: Tues-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm. Thurs 9.30am-10.30pm. Closed on Monday. Full price ticket €10. www.gallerieditalia. com. Piazza della Scala, 6. T: 800.167619. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Leonardo3 – The World of Leonardo The exhibit allows visitors to appreciate the many sides of Leonardo da Vinci’s technical and artistic production with interactive stations, fully functioning maschines made from studying Leonardo’s manuscripts, unprecedented physical reconstructions, digital restorations and threedimensional reconstructions of his creations. This is the only place in the world where visitors can see a reconstruction of “The Last Supper” as it was 500 year ago, when Leonardo painted it. The exhibit is produced bt the Leonardo3 (L3) Research Center. All interactive experiences are both in English and Italian and the audio guides are available in Italian, English, Russian, German, French, Spanish, Portuguese and Chinese. Open daily 9.30am-10.30, including holidays. www. leonardo3.net. Piazza della Scala (entrance from inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele I). Map F4

MUDEC – Museum of Cultures MUDEC is a multi-disciplinary hub dedicated to cultures of the world, featuring different spaces that offer visitors a multiplicity of cultural proposals and services, spread out over 17,000 sq.m.: rooms hosting the museum’s collection and temporary exhibitions, an auditorium, a bistrot, a design store, a cafeteria, a restaurant, a library, workshops and a junior space. Open Mon 2.30pm7.30pm; Tues, Wed, Fri, Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs, Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. www.mudec.it. T: 02 54917. Via Tortona, 56.M2 Porta Genova. Map C6

Musei del Castello Sforzesco Antique art, paintings, period furniture, sculptures and musical instruments are housed in Castello Sforzesco’s precious treasure trove. The building alone is well worth a visit. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm, closed on Mondays. Full price ticket €5. Free admittance: after 4.30pm every day except Fri; always free for children under 18. www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello. T: 02 88463703. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza.Map D3

Museo del Design Italiano Located on the ground floor of the Triennale Milano, the Museo del Design Italiano, hosts a selection of the most representative pieces of Italian design from 1946 to 1981. Spread over a surface of 1,300 sq.m, the over 200 works on exhibit are part of the Triennale collection and are displayed in chronological order to provide insights into the history, creative period and context in which each work was designed, as well as the influence they had on daily life objects. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Full ticket price €18 (exhibition XXII Triennale di Milano Broken Nature included). www.triennale.org. Viale E. Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Off Map

Museo del Duomo Totally refurbished in 2013, the museum houses and highlights all the material not presently in use in the Duomo, linked to its history and construction. Comprising 2,000 square metres of space, twenty seven rooms and thirteen thematic areas, the museum hosts more than two hundred sculptures and over seven hundred gypsum models and then again paintings, stained glass windows, tapestries and architectural models ranging from the 15th century to the present day. Worthy of particular note are the rooms of the Tesoro, Tintoretto’s “Jesus Among the Doctors”, the imposing wooden model of the cathedral built in 1519 and the tiles of the fifth door of the Duomo by Lucio Fontana and Luciano Minguzzi. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Wednesday and 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full price ticket €6. Cumulative ticket 15€ (Terraces of the Duomo by lift, Museum and Tesoro and the Baptistery of San Giovanni alle Fonti). http://museo.duomomilano.it. Palazzo Reale, piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 72022656. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 FREE WITH

Museo del Novecento One of the youngest museums in the city, lying adjacent to the Duomo, hosts more than 400 20th century masterpieces of Italian and international art – ranging from Fontana to Picasso – at the Palazzo dell’Arengario. Don’t miss a sight of Piazza Duomo from the “Sala Fontana”. Mon 2.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Wed-Fri and Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. Full ticket €10. Tourist MuseumCard (3-day pass for unlimited access to Civic Museums in Milan): €12. www.museodelnovecento.org. Piazza Duomo. T: 02 88444061. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci Housed in a 16th century monastery, this is one of the most important museums of science and technology in the world. Its collections explore the relationship between men and machines starting from the ingenious inventions of the world famous Leonardo da Vinci. Open Tues-Fri 9.30am-5.00pm; Sat, Sun and Holidays 9.30am) 6.30pm. Full ticket €10 ( FREE WITH + Guided tour inside the Enrico Toti submarine €8. www.museoscienza.org. Via San Vittore, 21. T: 02 48555558. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

Museo Teatrale alla Scala Founded in 1913, it recently underwent an important makeover and is dedicated to the history of the famous Milan Opera House with a vast collection of musical instruments and documents dedicated to famous musicians, including Verdi and Toscanini. Visitors can look into the theatre,

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

provided there are no rehearsals, or admire the “machine” that gives stage directions. Open Mon-Sun (except holidays) 9am-12.30am/1.30pm5.30pm. Full ticket €6. Museo Teatrale alla Scala + Museo Poldi Pezzoli €9 (Monday only). www. teatroallascala.org. Largo A. Ghiringhelli, 1 corner of Piazza della Scala. T: 02 88792473. T: 02 7423. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Palazzo Reale Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed-Fri-Sun 9.30am7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. www.comune.milano.it/palazzoreale. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 88465230. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Pinacoteca di Brera Opened to the public in 1809, the Pinacoteca di Brera is located in the Neo-classical building of the same name which also houses other cultural institutions including the Braidense Library, the Astronomical Observatory, the Botanical Gardens, the Istituto Lombardo Accademia di Scienze e Lettere and the Academy of Fine Arts. The Pinacoteca hosts one of the most spectacular collections of art in Italy. The new layouts of its rooms is scheduled for completion by 2018. Open Tues-Sun 8.30am-7.15pm (Thurs 8.30am-10.15pm, the entrance price is 2 euro starting from 6pm

until 10.15pm - ticket office closure at 9.40pm). Full ticket price €10. pinacotecabrera.org. Via Brera, 28. T: 02 722631. M2 Lanza, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F3 FREE WITH

Pirelli HangarBicocca

| SIGHTSEEING

A place against indifference

A former industrial plant, HangarBicocca is a lively cultural space dedicated to the production, display and promotion of contemporary art. Permanent exhibitions include “I Sette Palazzi Celesti”, the monumental towers created by German artist Anselm Kiefer and an installation by Fausto Melotti “La Sequenza”, located outside. HangarBicocca features a number of spaces designed to accommodate various initiatives and free events. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-11pm. Closed on Mon-TuesWed. Free admission. www.hangarbicocca.org. Via Chiese, 2. T: 02 661115 73. M5 Ponale. Off Map

Triennale Milano The Triennale Milano is one of the most vibrant, popular and important exhibition centres in the city. Featuring annually changing exhibitions of note, it also owns the most important permanent collection of design works. This fantastic museum is brimming with endless installations originating from brilliant minds all over the world. It has a superb media library on design, art and architecture. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm (last admission 1 hour before closing time). Closed on Monday. Full ticket €10. www.triennale. org. Viale E. Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D3 FREE WITH

The Garden of the Righteous Worldwide is s symbolic place in Milan. It is dedicated to the memory of morally exemplary figures throughout the world and was recently redeveloped based on a project by architect Stefano Valabrega. Italian life Senator Liliana Segre, a survivor and witness of the horrors the Nazi death camps, inaugurated the new space (see photo). The large green spaces in Parco Monte Stella (see map A1) were created to honour men and women throughout the world who helped victims of genocide, persecution and totalitarian regimes. The first trees were dedicated to the inspirers of the first Gardens of the Righteous in the world, in Jerusalem, Yerevan and Sarajevo: Moshe Bejski for the Righteous of the Holocaust, Pietro Kuciukian in honour of the Righteous for the Armenians and Svetlana Broz for the Righteous who opposed ethnic cleansing. The Day of the Righteous on 6 March, which officially became a civil solemnity in Italy in 2017, originated from the activity of this place. Via Cimabue, 40. M1 QT8

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 57

ESSENTIALS

Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

INA ANTONIETTA

S7 S8 S9 S11 S7 S8 S9 S11

Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5

ORITA

S2 S4

Limite tariffa / Fare limit Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

UNDERGROUND NETWORK & URBAN RAILWAY SYSTEM

A DE’ PECCHI

Tariffa / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4

Cusano Milanino

CO S.N.

S1 S3

BURRONA

Cusano Milanino

S1 S3 Bresso

Cormano

Vimodrone

Bollate

Novate Milanese

RHO Fieramilano

Novate Milanese COMASINA

RHO S5-S6 S11 Fieramilano

Quarto Oggiaro S1-S3

Baranzate

Pero PERO

Settimo Milanese

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Urban passes fare limit

S1-S2-S3-S4

MACIACHINI

Villapizzone Certosa S5-S6 -S11 S5-S6 -S11

S5-S6 -S11

S2-S4

BONOLA

BONOLA TRE TORRI URUGUAY

URUGUAY

SAN SIRO Stadio Settimo Milanese

WAGNER DE ANGELI Peschiera Borromeo

DE ANGELI

PRIMATICCIO S. Cristoforo

PRIMATICCIO

INGANNI

Buccinasco Cesano Boscone

BUSSERO BUSSERO CASSINA DE’ PECCHI CASSINA DE’ PECCHI VILLA SAN GIOVANNI COLOGNO NORD VILLA SAN GIOVANNI COLOGNO NORD VILLA FIORITA VILLA FIORITA

Greco Bicocca PRECOTTO S7-S8 S9-S11

COLOGNO CENTRO CASCINA BURRONA COLOGNO CENTRO CASCINA BURRONA GORLA COLOGNO SUD VIMODRONE COLOGNO SUD VIMODRONE Vimodrone TURRO

GORLA

MARCHE ZARA

Corsico

TURRO

ROVERETO

ISOLA

Vimodrone

CAIAZZO GIOIA CENTRALE GARIBALDIFS FS

LANZA TURATI

S1-S2-S5-S6

CIMIANO

PASTEUR

LORETO CAIAZZO

LORETO

PIOLA CENTRALE FS LIMA

S1-S2-S5-S6 MOSCOVA S11-S12-S13

S. AGOSTINO

P.TA GENOVA FS

UDINE

LAMBRATE FS S9 PIOLA

LAMBRATE FS

LIMA S1-S2-S5

S1-S2-S5

S11-S12-S13 REPUBBLICA

P.TA VENEZIA S6-S12-S13 REPUBBLICA P.TA VENEZIA S6-S12-S13 S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

TURATI PALESTRO

P.TA ROMANA

ROMOLO

FAMAGOSTA

Forlanini S5-S6-S9

CROCETTA P.TA ROMANA

LODI TIBB

ROMOLO

Dateo S1-S2 S5-S6 S12-S13 P. Vittoria Forlanini S1-S2-S5 S5-S6-S9 S6-S12-S14

MISSORI

CROCETTA

CIMIANO

UDINE

S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

MISSORI

S. AMBROGIO

CRESCENZAGO CRESCENZAGO

ROVERETO

PASTEUR SONDRIO

SONDRIO

CENISIOGARIBALDI FS

P. Romana FS

S9 TIBB LODI

Segrate

P. Romana FS S9

S5 S6

BRENTA

CORVETTO CORVETTO ASSAGO MilanofioriASSAGO Nord Milanofiori Nord Buccinasco P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO PORTO DI MARE PORTO DI MARE Chiesa Rossa Chiesa Rossa ASSAGO ASSAGO Milanofiori Forum Milanofiori Forum

e Orio al Serio al Serio Airports

Assago

Tariffa / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4

CERNUSCO S.N. CERNUSCO S.N. Cologno MonzeseCologno Monzese PRECOTTO

ROGOREDO FS Corsico

Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5

SESTO MARELLI SESTO MARELLI

ISTRIA

GIOIA MONUMENTALE

S. AGOSTINO S. Cristoforo S9

GORGONZOLA

VILLA POMPEA VILLA POMPEA

Bicocca S7-S8 CA’ GRANDA S9-S11

ZARA MACIACHINI

S. AMBROGIO

BISCEGLIE

BICOCCA Greco

CASCINA ANTONIETTA

GORGONZOLA

SESTO RONDÒ

PALESTRO Dateo S1-S2 SAN BABILA SAN BABILA S5-S6 MONTENAPOLEONE MONTENAPOLEONE BUONARROTI PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE S12-S13 DUOMO DUOMO P. Vittoria CADORNA WAGNER CADORNA FN S1-S2-S5 CAIROLI CORDUSIO CAIROLI FN CORDUSIO S6-S12-S14

BANDE NERE

Cesano Boscone

MONUMENTALE GERUSALEMME

TRE TORRI CENISIO

GAMBARA

BICOCCA AFFORI FN S2-S4 CA’ GRANDA

ISOLA Lancetti S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

Lancetti S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

LAMPUGNANO LAMPUGNANO PORTELLO PORTELLO QT8 QT8 MOSCOVA SAN SIRO LOTTO LOTTO Stadio LANZA SAN SIRO SEGESTA SAN SIRO SEGESTA Ippodromo Ippodromo AMENDOLA AMENDOLA BUONARROTI

PONALE

Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

GESSATE

S7-S8 S9-S11 CASCINA ANTONIETTA

Metro automatico per S. Raffaele Metro automatico per S. Raffaele Automatic train to S. Raffaele CASCINA Automatic train to S. Raffaele GOBBA CASCINA GOBBA

Villapizzone S5-S6 -S11

MOLINO DORINO MOLINO DORINO GERUSALEMME S. LEONARDO S. LEONARDO DOMODOSSOLA FNDOMODOSSOLA FN

SESTO RONDÒ

BIGNAMI Parco Nord

PONALE

ISTRIA AFFORI CENTRO AFFORI CENTRO DERGANO MARCHE Bovisa Politecnico DERGANO

S1-S2-S3-S4

Urban passes fare limit

BIGNAMI Parco Nord

AFFORI FN

Quarto Oggiaro S1-S3

Baranzate Bovisa Politecnico

PERO

Certosa S5Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani

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S5-S6 S11

SESTO 1° MAGGIO FS 1° MAGGIO S9-S11 SESTO FS

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit

Bruzzano S2-S4

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S7-S8

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Sesto San Giovanni Sesto San Giovanni

Cinisello Balsamo Cinisello Balsamo

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S2 S4

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

ONZOLA

POMPEA

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

SSATE

Assago

S1-S12-S13

ROGOREDO FS S1-S12-S13

Rozzano

Opera

S. DONATO

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit

Peschiera Borromeo Peschiera Borromeo

San Donato Milanese San Donato Milanese

S9 Limite tariffa / Fare limitLimite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Courtesy ATM – Updated on 15 July 2019

S13

Limite tariff a abbonamenti urbani METROPOLITANA LINEA 1Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani METROPOLITANA LINEA 1 Tariffa / Fare Urban passes fare limit UNDERGROUND LINE 1 Urban passes fare limit UNDERGROUND LINE 1 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 Limite METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 Limite tariffa / Fare limit tariffa / Fare limit UNDERGROUND LINE 2 3 zone Mi1 Mi3 UNDERGROUND LINE 2 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 Tariffa / Fare METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 UNDERGROUND LINE 3 UNDERGROUND LINE 3 Tariffa / Fare METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 UNDERGROUND LINE 4 UNDERGROUND LINE 4 Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

GETTING AROUND MILAN ATM - Azienda Trasporti Milanesi – Local Public Transport Company Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm.it. T: 02 48607607 (7.30am-7.30pm). Lost and Found on ATM Vehicles: Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900. Ordinary ticket (2€) Valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, trams or the metro Day ticket (7€) Valid 24h. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Three-day ticket (12€) Valid for 3 consecutive days from the day of the first validation until the end of the service on the third day. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Check rates for the extra-urban subway. https://nuovosistematariffario.atm.it/en/ Where to buy your ticket: from all authorized ticket sellers, ATM POINTs (Duomo M1-M3, Centrale M2-M3, Cadorna M1-M2, Garibaldi M2-M5, Loreto M1-M2, Romolo M2). and automatic ticket vendors.

Stazione accessibile (ascensori) Stazione accessibile (ascensori) Tariffa / Fare Step-free station (lifts) 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3Step-free station (lifts) Stazione accessibile (montascale) Stazione accessibile (montascale) Step-free station (stairlifts) Step-free station (stairlifts) Tariffa / Fare

S13 S1 S12

S1 S12

Linea 73 Aeroporto di Linate Linea 73 per Aeroporto diper Linate Line 73 to Linate Airport Line 73 to Linate Airport

Bus Aeroporto di Linate, Bus per Aeroporto diper Linate, Malpensa e Orio Malpensa al Serio e Orio al Serio Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Orio al Serio Airports Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Orio al Serio Airports 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita Malpensa Express Malpensa Express ATM Point: information and sales point ATM Point: information and sales point Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 ferroviarie regionali Terminal bus lunga percorrenza Linee ferroviarie Linee regionali Terminal bus lunga percorrenza distance bus terminal Regional railways Regional railways Long distance busLong terminal Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6 con rete ferroviaria Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM Interscambio conInterscambio rete ferroviaria Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM Courtesy ATM – Connection with railway system ATM car park Courtesy ATM – Updated on 15 July 2019 Connection with railway system ATM car park

CITYSIGHTSEEING MILANO HOP ONHOP OFF

Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, all year around. 48 hours: ticket valid for 4 lines, over 40 stops. 10 language commentary. Prices: Adults (1 day) € 22 - (48 hours) € 25 – (72 hours) € 28 - reduced € 10. Departure: Foro Bonaparte 12, in front of Zani Viaggi/Milan Visitor Center (M1 Cairoli). T: 02 867131. You can join the tour from any stop. Tickets on board, in hotels and authorized agencies or on internet. NEW A new electric bus is available. A Line: Castello, Cenacolo, Sant'Ambrogio, Navigli, Università Statale, Duomo, La Scala, Arena. B Line: Castello, Triennale, Corso Como, Stazione Centrale, Buenos Aires, San Babila, Brera. C Line: Castello, Garibaldi, Monumentale, Fieramilanocity, Stadio San Siro, Parco Sempione. NEW D Line: Castello, Cadorna, Navigli. Purchase your Combo tickets for top attractions on board at special prices. Download for free the “Sightseeing Experience” App for your walking tour downtown and to discover the bus stops and the timetable. www.milano.city-sightseeing.it Map E4

NEW!

Tourist Information INFOPOINT  TOURIST OFFICE OF MILAN Piazza Duomo, 14 Multilingual tourist assistance and information; free distribution of maps and brochures. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 10am-1pm. T: 02 88455555 - www.yesmilano.it infotourist@comune.milano.it You can also find tourist information in the brand new office: YESMILANO TOURISM SPACECAMERA DI COMMERCIO & COMUNE DI MILANO Palazzo Giureconsulti - Via dei Mercanti 8 A highly-digital environment created to "immerse" visitors into a multi-sensory and technological experience. Open Mon-Fri 9am6.30pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 1.30pm-5.30pm T: 02 85155931 - www.yesmilano.it infotourismspace@mi.camcom.it

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 59

ESSENTIALS Emergency

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM MILAN

• EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER. 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. • PASSPORTS Questura di Milano, via Fatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 62261

Street markets (see map pages 62-63) 1. FIERA DI SINIGAGLIA STREET MARKET– The only “flea market” in Milan, it attracts a varied public ranging from collectors to bargain hunters. Saturdays. www.fieradisinigaglia.it Ripa di Porta Ticinese (from via Paoli to via Bersanti) 2. NAVIGLIO GRANDE ANTIQUE MARKET – A “not-to-be-missed” date for collectors the world over. Last Sunday of every month. Naviglio Grande, from the Darsena to the bridge in via Valenza. M2 Porta Genova FS. 3. MERCATINO FILATELICO STAMPS AND COINS – A historic market and the third largest in Europe. Open on Sundays and weekdays. Via Armorari, Via Cordusio, Via C. Cantù, Galleria Cordusio. M1 Cordusio, M1- M3 Duomo. 4. VIALE PAPINIANO STREET MARKET – Held twice-weekly, this is Milan’s largest street market. Tuesdays and Saturdays. Viale Papiniano. M2 Sant’Agostino. 5. ANTIQUE AND SECONDHAND BOOK MARKET – A monthly appointment for booksellers from all over the world. Every second Sunday of the month (excluding the months of July and August). Piazza Diaz. M1-M3 Duomo. 6. CASCINA CUCCAGNA – A 17th century farmhouse in Milan hosting a farmers’ food market. Every Tuesday, from 3.30pm to 8pm. www.cuccagna.org. Via Cuccagna, corner of via Muratori. 7. EAST MARKET – A pure East London-inspired market boasting vintage or second-hand clothes and accessories, as well as street food. Every third Sunday of the month, 10am-9pm. www.eastmarketmilano.com. Via Mecenate, 84 8. MERCATINO ANTIQUARIATO E BROCANTAGE DI BRERA Every third Sunday of the month

in the charming Brera district, from 9am to 6pm. Via Fiori Chiari-via Madonnina – via Formentini. M2 Lanza. 9. VIA FAUCHÉ STREET MARKET– Very appreciated

by the fashionistas. You can find discounted clothes and shoes of the most prestigious Italian stylists. Twice a week, every Tuesday (7.30am-1pm) and Saturday (7.30am-5pm). 10. MERCATO DEL SUFFRAGIO – Municipal market

in corso XXII Marzo. From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30am-11pm) and Sunday (7.30am-4pm).

Trains TRENITALIA - National Railway Company

Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com Milan offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains. • Turin: 55 min • Bologna: 1 hour • Florence: 1 hour 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 35 min • Rome: 2 hours 55 min • Naples: 4 hours 15 min ITALO - High Speed Rail. Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it 60 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2019

TRENORD - Malpensa Express - Regional & Suburban

Railway . Info T: 02 72494949. Mon-Sun 7am-9pm. www.trenord.it. The MALPENSA EXPRESS (www.malpensaexpress.it) links the centre of Milan with the intercontinental hub at Malpensa Airport (Terminal 1 & Terminal 2) with 146 trains a day, between 4.27am and 00.20am. 68 trips to and from Milano Centrale (also stopping at Milano Porta Garibaldi) and 78 to and from Milano Cadorna.

Airports MILANO MALPENSA MXP  (45 km from the centre of Milan - A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 232323. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com • Connection to Milano Malpensa Bus > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza IV Novembre). Travel time 50’. Air Pullman (www.malpensashuttle.com) Ticket € 10. T: 02 58583185; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) € 8; Autostradale

(www.autostradale.it) Ticket € 8. T: 02 72001304. Train > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale). Travel time 50’ ca. It is possible to reach Malpensa also from the Garibaldi FS Station. Ticket € 13. www.trenitalia.com Train > from Cadorna Station. Travel time 40' ca. Trenord (www.malpensaexpress.it). Ticket € 13. (www.trenord.it). T: 02 72494949. MILANO LINATE LIN (6 km from the centre of Milan). Flight information 24h-24h T: 02 232323 (call center). www.milanolinate-airport.com ORIO AL SERIO BGY) (45 km from the centre of Milan – A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h. T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it. • Connection to Orio al Serio-Bergamo Bus from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza Luigi di Savoia). Travel time 60’. Orioshuttle (www.orioshuttle.com). T: 035 330706; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it). T: 035 322915; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) Ticket € 5.

UNUSUAL ITINERARIES FOR UNIQUE JOURNEYS

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Malpensa Airport (45km)

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1 Duomo-Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II

3 Via Montenapoleone - Quadrilatero 4 Via Dante

5 Via Torino 6 Brera-Solferino

7 Garibaldi-Corso Como 8 Corso Buenos Aires

9 Corso XXII Marzo

10 Navigli-Porta Tici

Milano Map CENTRAL MAP at page 26

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Navigli (G8-G9) | Brera (H5) | Corso Garibaldi and Corso Como (H3) Arco della Pace-Piazza Sempione (F4-G4) | Isola (H1-I1) | CityLife (C2-C3)

Street Markets (see page 60)

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Milan Magazine

5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Armani Hotel (L) – Via Manzoni, 31 • F4 Baglioni Hotel Carlton Milano – Via Senato, 5 • G4 Bulgari Hotels & Resorts (L) – Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4 Château Monfort – Corso Concordia, 1 • H4 Excelsior Hotel Gallia (L) – Piazza Duca d'Aosta, 9 • G2 Fifty House – Via B. Cellini, 14 • H5 Fifty House Soho – Via E. Cornalia, 7 • G2 Four Seasons Hotel Milano (L) – Via Gesù, 6/8 • G4 Galleria Vik Milano (L) – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5 Grand Hotel et de Milan (L) – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4 Magna Pars Suites – Via Forcella, 6 • D6 Mandarin Oriental Milan – Via Andegari, 9 • F4 ME Milan Il Duca (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 13 • G2 Meliá – Via Masaccio, 19 • B2 NH Collection Milano President – Largo Augusto, 10 • G5 Palazzo Matteotti – Corso G. Matteotti, 4/6 • G4 Palazzo Parigi (L) – Corso di Porta Nuova, 1 • F2 Park Hyatt (L) – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F4 Pierre – Via De Amicis, 32 • E5 Principe di Savoia (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 17• G2 SINA The Gray – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F4 Style – Via delle Erbe • E3 The St. Regis Venice – San Marco, 2159 • E5 The Westin Palace (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G2 TownHouse Duomo (L) – Via S. Pellico, 2 • F5 Viu Milan – Via Fioravanti, 6 • E2

4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES AC Hotel Milano by Marriott – Via E. Tazzoli, 2 • E1 Acca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAP Accursio – Viale Certosa, 88 • OFF MAP Admiral – Via Domodossola, 16 • C2 Andreola Central – Via D. Scarlatti, 24 • H2 Antares Accademia – Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAP Antares Rubens – Via P. P. Rubens, 21 • A4 Antica Locanda dei Mercanti – Via San Tomaso, 6 • F4 Arcimboldi – Viale Sarca, 336 • OFF MAP AS Cambiago – Viale delle Industrie - Cambiago (MI) • OFF MAP AS Hotel dei Giovi – Via Manzoni, 99 - Cesano Maderno (MB) • OFF MAP AS Limbiate Fiera – Corso Como, 52 - Limbiate (MB) • OFF MAP AS Monza – Viale Lombardia, 76/78 – Monza (MB) • OFF MAP AS Sempione Fiera – S.S. del Sempione, 320 – San Vittore Olona (MI) • OFF MAP Ascot – Via Lentasio, 3 • F5 Auriga – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • G2 Barceló Milan – Via Stephenson, 55 • OFF MAP Baviera Mokinba – Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G3 Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • G2 Best Western Antares Concorde – Viale Monza, 132 • OFF MAP Best Western Astoria – Viale Murillo, 9 • A3 Best Western Goldenmile Milan – Viale Cristoforo Colombo, 33 • D6 Best Western Madison – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • G1 Best Western Major – Viale Isonzo, 2 • MAP H7 Best Western Mirage – Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAP Best Western Plus Felice Casati – Via F. Casati, 18 • G2 Best Western Plus Hotel Galles – Piazza Lima, 2 • H2 Best Western St. George – Viale Tunisia, 9 • H3 Bianca Maria Palace Hotel – Viale Bianca Maria, 4 • H5 Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H2 Brunelleschi – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5 c-hotels Atlantic – Via N. Torriani, 24 • G2 Ca' Bianca Hotel Corte del Naviglio –Via Lodovico il Moro, 117 • OFF MAP Camperio House Suite & Apartments – Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4 Capitol World Class – Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • C4 Carlyle Brera – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3 Carrobbio – Via Medici, 3 • E5 Cavour – Via Fatebenefratelli, 21 • F3 Citylife Hotel Poliziano – Via A. Poliziano, 11 • D2 Colombia – Via R. Lepetit, 15 • G2 Corvetto Residence – Via Osimo, 10 • OFF MAP

Crivi’s – Corso di Porta Vigentina, 46 • G6 Crowne Plaza Milan City – Via M. Gioia, 73 • G1 Da Vinci Milano – Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAP De la Ville – Viale Regina Margherita di Savoia, 15 - Monza (MI) • OFF MAP Del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • I1 Domina Milano Fiera Hotel & Congress – Via G. di Vittorio, 66 – Novate Milanese (MI) • OFF MAP Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • H1 Double Tree by Hilton – Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAP Enterprise – Corso Sempione, 91 • C1 First Hotel Malpensa – Via Baracca, 34 - Case Nuove (Somma Lombardo) Malpensa Airport• OFF MAP Four Points by Sheraton Milan Center – Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1 Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G4 Glam Hotel – Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 4/6 • G2 Grand Hotel Barone Di Sassj – Via V. Padovani, 38 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP Grand Visconti Palace – Viale Isonzo, 14 • H7 H2C Milanofiori – Via R. Bartolomea, 5 - Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Hilton – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1 Hilton Garden Inn Milan North – Via Columella, 36 • OFF MAP Holiday Inn Garibaldi – Via U. Bassi, 1/A • F1 Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F5 Hyatt Centric Milano Centrale – Via G.B. Pirelli, 20 • MAP G1 IH ApartHotel Milano Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 – MAP L4 IH Hotels Lorenteggio – Via Lorenteggio, 278 • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Ambasciatori – Galleria Del Corso, 3 • G4 IH Hotels Milano Gioia – Via della Giustizia, 10/d • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Watt 13 – Via G. Watt, 13 • MAP B7 IH Hotels Residence Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAP Il Castelletto – Via dell’Ecologia, 7/9 – Casarile (MI) • OFF MAP International Residence – Via G. Modena, 4 • H4 Just – Via N. Torriani, 29 • MAP G2 J24 – Viale Jenner, 24 • OFF MAP King Mokinba – Corso Magenta, 19 • D4 Klima – Via Venezia Giulia, 8 • OFF MAP Lancaster – Via A. Sangiorgio, 16 • D3 Leonardo Hotel Milan City Center – Via Messina, 10 • E2 LHP Napoleon – Via F. Ozanam 12 • H2 Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F5 M89 – Via Mecenate, 89 • OFF MAP Maison Borella – Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 8 • E6 Maison Milano | UNA Esperienze – Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5 Manin – Via Manin, 7 • G3 Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4 Marriott – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5 Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • G2 Mercure Milano Centro – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3 Mercure Milano Regency – Via G. Arimondi, 12 • C1 Metrò – Corso Vercelli, 61 • C4 Michelangelo – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 6 • H1 MiHotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAP Milan Suite Hotel – Via Varesina, 124 • OFF MAP Milano Castello – Via San Tomaso, 2 • MAP F4 Milano Palmanova – Via Palmanova, 153 • OFF MAP Milano Scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • F4 Mini Hotel La Spezia – Via Spezia, 25 • OFF MAP Mini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • B2 Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • C4 Monforte 27 – Corso Monforte, 27 • G4 Montebianco Mokinba – Via Monte Rosa, 90 • A2 Montenapoleone Suites – Via Santa Cecilia, 4 • G4 Mozart – Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • D2 My Bed Montenapoleone – Piazza San Babila, 3 • Map G4 My Bed – Corso di Porta Ticinese, 24 • Map E5 Mythos – Via C. Tenca, 21 • Map G2 NH Collection Milano Porta Nuova – Via M. Gioia, 6 • F2 NH Hotel Milano Fiera – Viale degli Alberghi - Rho (Milano) • OFF MAP NH Milano Concordia – Via Lama, 10 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Linate – Via A.Grandi, 12 – Peschiera Borromeo (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Machiavelli – Via Lazzaretto, 5 • G3

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NH Milano Congress Centre – 2a Strada – Assago (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Palazzo Moscova – Via Monte Grappa, 12b • MAP F2 NH Milano Touring – Via U. Tarchetti, 2 • G3 NH Milano 2 – Via F.lli Cervi - Segrate (Milano 2) • OFF MAP NHOW Milano – Via Tortona, 35 • C6 Novotel Milano Malpensa Aeroporto – Via al Campo, 99 Cardano al Campo (VA) • Off Map Nu – Via Feltre, 19/b • Off Map NYX Milan – Piazza IV Novembre, 3 . G1 Oro Blu – Piazzale Lotto, 14, corner of Via Veniero • MAP B2 Osteria della Pista – Via Verbano, 1 (Casorate Sempione, VA) • OFF MAP Palazzo delle Stelline – Corso Magenta, 61 • E4 Palazzo Segreti – Via San Tomaso, 8 • E4 Phi Hotel Milano – Via Falzarego, 1 (Baranzate) • OFF MAP Pioppeto – Via Strà Madonna, 15 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP Radisson Blu – Via Villapizzone, 24 • OFF MAP Raffaello – Viale Certosa, 108 • OFF MAP Ramada Plaza– Via d’Ancona, 27 • OFF MAP Regina – Via C. Correnti, 13 • E5 Residence Desenzano Milano – Via Desenzano, 12 • A5 Residence Romana – Corso di Porta Romana, 64 • G6 Room Mate Giulia – Via Silvio Pellico, 4 • F4 Royal Garden – Via G. Di Vittorio, Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Santa Marta Suites – Via Santa Marta, 4 • E5 Sanpi – Via L. Palazzi, 18 • G3 Savona 18 Suites – Via Savona, 18 • Map D6 Senato Hotel Milano – Via Senato, 22 • E5 Sheraton Diana Majestic – Viale Piave, 42 • H3 Sheraton Milan Malpensa Airport – Ferno (VA) Aeroporto Malpensa 2000, Terminal 1 • OFF MAP Sheraton Milan San Siro – Via Caldera, 21 • OFF MAP Silver – Via R. Lombardi, 9/11• OFF MAP SINA De la Ville – Via U. Hoepli, 6 • F5 Spadari al Duomo – Via Spadari, 11 • F5 Star – Via dei Bossi, 5 • Map F4 Starhotels Anderson – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 20 • H1 Starhotels Business Palace – Via Privata Pietro Gaggia, 3 • OFF MAP Starhotels Echo – Viale A. Doria, 4 • H1 Starhotels Grand Milan – Via Varese, 23 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP Starhotels Ritz – Via L. Spallanzani, 40 • H3 Starhotels Rosa Grand – Piazza Fontana, 3 • F5 Straf – Via San Raffaele, 3 • F4 Sunflower – Piazzale Lugano, 10 • OFF MAP Terminal – Via Ponte Seveso, 38 • Map G1 The Hub – Via Privata Polonia, 10 • OFF MAP The Originals Hotel Milan Nasco – Corso Sempione, 69 • C1 The Square Milano Duomo – Via Albricci, 2-4 • F5 The Yard Milano – Piazza XXIV Maggio, 8 • E6 Tocq Hotel – Via A.De Tocqueville, 7/D • F2 TownHouse 33 Boutique Hotel – Via C. Goldoni, 33 • H4 Trova il Tempo – Via Novara, 216 • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Century Milano – Via F. Filzi, 25/b • G2 UNAHOTELS Cusani Milano – Via Cusani, 13 • E4 UNAHOTELS Expo Fiera Milano – Via G. Keplero, 12 – Pero (MI) • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Malpensa – Via F. Turati, 84 – Cerro Maggiore (MI) • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Mediterraneo Milano– Via L. Muratori 14 • H6 UNAHOTELS Scandinavia Milano – Via G.B. Fauché, 15 • C1 UNAHOTELS The One Milano – Via Maastricht, 3 (San Donato) • OFF MAP UNAWAY Contessa Jolanda Hotel & Residence Milano – Via G. Murat, 21 • OFF MAP UNAWAY Linea Uno Hotel & Residence Milano – Viale Monza, 139 • OFF MAP UNAWAY Quark Due Hotel & Residence Milano – Via Lampedusa, 11/3 • OFF MAP Vittoria – Via P. Calvi, 32 • H5 Uptown Palace – Via Santa Sofia, 10 • F6 Windsor Hotel Milano – Via G. Galilei, 2 • G2 Worldhotel Cristoforo Colombo – Corso Buenos Aires, 3 • H3 Vittoria - Via P. Calvi, 32 • H4-H5 Zara Milano – Viale Zara, 28 • OFF MAP

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