Where Magazine London Oct 2018

GUIDE TO LONDON ®

OCTOBER 2018

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Just the TICKET As St Pancras Station celebrates 150 years, discover restaurants, shops and art all under one iconic roof

PLU

S M US E AT N UMS I G HT COC K TA IL B B FI ARS LO N D FE S O N FI L TIVA M L

FRIGHT NIGHTS PROMOTION

Where to get spooked out this Halloween

LIFE IS A CABARET Dita Von Teese shares her favourite places

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

October

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four- and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’

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72

ON THE COVER

Visit one of London’s most spectacular stations, St Pancras International.

Image © iStock; Statue image © Sarah Riches

The Guide 22 SIGHTSEEING As Halloween takes place, discover scary locations from Jack the Ripper’s haunts to spooky cemeteries.

ICE SCULPTURE COURTESY OF BELOWZERO ICE BAR; ARTWORK © HEAD BY REUBEN MEDNIKOFF © THE MURRAY FAMILY COLLECTION/BARBICAN CENTRE; THE EMPEROR AND THE CONCUBINE COURTESY OF SADLER’S WELLS; DISH COURTESY OF HELIX AND IRIS, SEARCYS AT THE GHERKIN © EMILY WHITING; DITA VON TEESE © FRANK GUTHRIE

38 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES It’s time to get nocturnal! Museums at Night takes place in venues from the London Transport Museum to Benjamin Franklin House.

44 ENTERTAINMENT The BFI London Film Festival celebrates British films starring the likes of Rachel Weisz, Liam Neeson and Olivia Colman.

56 SHOPPING Pick up souvenirs, from tea pots to mugs, at these terrific tea shops.

62 DINING Are you a fan of squid, oysters and lobster?

As Seafood Week takes place, head to these restaurants serving up fish in all its forms.

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82

Best of the month

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18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE

Take your pick of this month’s exciting festivals, from Oktoberfest to Diwali in Trafalgar Square.

Take your pick from these photographs and paintings of iconic famous faces, from the British singer David Bowie to the Mexican artist Frida Kahlo.

10 ON THE RIGHT TRACK As St Pancras celebrates its 150th year, discover where you can eat, drink and shop at the station.

14 THE ART OF ART FAIRS We take a look at the art sales taking place across the capital, including Frieze London, Moniker and The Other Art Fair.

82 MY PERFECT DAY The burlesque dancer and model Dita Von Teese talks to us about her London hotspots, from The Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace to Vivienne Westwood’s clothes shop.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

72 NIGHTLIFE We raise a glass to the city’s finest bars to celebrate London Cocktail Week.

76 WELLBEING If you love getting your nails done, here are some salons offering the ultimate nail experiences.

78 ESSENTIALS London’s experienced concierges share their tips on how to make the most of your trip.

80 MAP A useful map of central London. w w w.wheret r aveler.c o m 3

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Vol. No. 44 Issue No.10 ISSN 0951 323X

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Welcome Art for everyone Choosing a piece of art is like choosing your best friend: you are going to invest time in it, see it on a regular basis and hopefully it will be there for life.

As Frieze London – one of the world’s biggest art fairs – returns, discover how you can enjoy the fun of the fairs and find a work of art that inspires you (p. 14).

London’s train stations are bursting with history and every Londoner has their favourite. St Pancras is up there: it’s got Gothic charm, the world’s longest Champagne bar and it’s the starting point for Continental adventures. Paris, anyone?

I have made so many wonderful memories at the station, from running for a train heading for the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, to greeting much-missed friends on various platforms. Find out how special the station is (p. 10).

The city is packed with scary sights, from spooky cemeteries to haunted houses.

So if you’re feeling brave, read our piece on how to celebrate Halloween (p. 22).

The British film industry is booming.

We are the home of blockbusters, from Harry Potter to James Bond. As the BFI London Film Festival takes place, we discover the latest gems (p. 44).

We love finding out where famous faces enjoy hanging out in London.

Dita Von Teese, the burlesque dancer, shares her top spots, from Claridge’s hotel to the seafood restaurant J Sheekey.

As she’s performing in the capital, who knows – if you hang out at The Fumoir bar in Claridge’s long enough, you might bump into her (p. 82)?

Have an amazing trip!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

FRIEZE ART FAIR © LYNDON DOUGLAS COURTESY OF LYNDON DOUGLAS

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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October is packed with great events, from the NFL Games at Wembley Stadium to U2 at The O2

OKTOBERFEST FROM THURSDAY 4 OCT

Waiters dressed in dirndl – traditional Bavarian corset dresses – and lederhosen are on hand to serve you bratwurst and steins of foaming German beer at Oktoberfest, which is taking place in huge tents in Millwall Park (4-14 Oct) and Finsbury Park (18-31 Oct). Live bands create a party atmosphere. www.london-oktoberfest.co.uk

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NFL LONDON GAMES 14, 21 & 28 OCT

The NFL London Games have been a firm fixture on the capital’s sporting calendar, packing out stadiums for more than a decade now. By the end of the 2018 season, NFL will have played 24 American football games here, with 29 out of 32 teams having participated – it’s part of the desire to build on gridiron’s global fan base. Head to Wembley Stadium to watch three games: Seattle Seahawks vs Oakland Raiders (14 Oct); Tennessee Titans vs Los Angeles Chargers (21 Oct); and Philadelphia Eagles vs Jacksonville Jaguars (28 Oct). www.nfluk.com

U2 EXPERIENCE + INNOCENCE TOUR TUESDAY 23–WEDNESDAY 24 OCT

AFRICA ON THE SQUARE & DIWALI ON THE SQUARE

I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For, With or Without You and Sunday Bloody Sunday are just some of the timeless hits that the Irish mega-group U2 have given the world, all of which you can expect to hear at their gig at The O2. The show, Experience + Innocence, is part of the band’s European tour, so it’s likely to include tracks from their 14th album, Songs of Experience. www.theo2.co.uk

SATURDAY 27–SUNDAY 28 OCT

London is famous for its multiculturalism, as seen this month at events in Trafalgar Square. Africa on the Square (27 Oct) honours Black History Month with cultural offerings, while the following day, Diwali celebrates the Hindu, Sikh and Jain festival of lights.

These family-friendly occasions, with art, culture, dance, music and food, are free to attend. www.london.gov.uk

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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FROM TUESDAY 2 OCT

The huge Turbine Hall at Tate Modern is one of the biggest spaces in London that an artist can fill.

Every year, the Hyundai Commission becomes a talking point across the city and, for 2018, the attention is on Cuba’s Tania Bruguera. Known for her large-scale pieces, which have appeared around the world, she aims to cultivate political discourse through her work. Passionate about themes of borders and migration, she caused a stir at this gallery in 2008 when she placed two mounted police officers inside who performed crowd control exercises. Whatever she unveils in the Turbine Hall, Bruguera will surely give us something to think about this autumn. www.tate.org.uk

LONDON LITERATURE FESTIVAL THURSDAY 18–SUNDAY 28 OCT

How do you follow Hillary Clinton? That was the challenge for this festival’s organisers, following 2017’s appearance by the US politician. Luckily, they’ve come up trumps (no pun intended) with a great line-up: novelist Salman Rushdie makes a rare appearance; The Who’s Roger Daltrey and actress Sally Field (right) both launch their memoirs; and Carol Ann Duffy delivers her final works before retiring as the UK’s Poet Laureate.

Look out for writing masterclasses, laughs with Julian Clary and plenty of chances to discuss the political climate. www.southbankcentre.co.uk

BLUESFEST THURSDAY 25–SUNDAY 28 OCT

This annual music festival celebrating the blues opens at The O2 with John Fogerty, a founding member of Creedence Clearwater Revival, warming up for evergreen stars such as Van Morrison, Robert Plant with his latest band the Sensational Space Shifters, Counting Crows and the Zac Brown Band (left). www.bluesfest.co.uk 8 W H E R E LO N D O N I O C TO B E R 2 018

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Take the kids on a ride on the Mail Rail, the subterranean train in The Postal Museum See art from the Pacific at the new Oceana exhibition at the Royal Academy of Arts Enjoy the city from a different perspective: from the water, on a Thames Clipper boat Step on to the turf at Stamford Bridge, home of Chelsea FC, on a stadium tour Hop aboard the 19th-century tea clipper Cutty Sark to peep into sailors’ quarters Head inside Frida Escobedo’s summer Serpentine Pavilion – it closes tomorrow See Renaissance masters Mantegna and Bellini at The National Gallery’s exhibition Hear songs from popular shows at The Best of the West End, at the Royal Albert Hall Find out your children’s ideal profession, from car mechanic to surgeon, at KidZania Gaze at Tania Bruguera’s latest creation in Tate Modern’s enormous Turbine Hall See the Modfather himself, Paul Weller, perform at the Royal Festival Hall Be dazzled by Splendours of the Subcontinent at The Queen’s Gallery Get served by hapless Manuel and Basil in Faulty Towers the Dining Experience Stroll Green Park – bathed in autumn hues – to watch the Royal Parks Half Marathon Meet the royals, including newcomer Meghan Markle, at Madame Tussauds Enjoy Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata

by Candlelight at St Martin-in-the-Fields Get your dancing shoes on – it’s the final week of Strictly Ballroom the Musical Test your nerves at SEA LIFE London in the walk-through glass shark tunnels See the ‘King of Latin pop’, Enrique Iglesias, perform his hits tonight at The O2 Take a tour inside the stunning Houses of Parliament, home of British democracy See Michael Jackson depicted in art at The National Gallery’s exhibition, closing today Immerse yourself in The Jungle, set in a refugee camp, at the Playhouse Theatre See thousands of sporting exhibits at Twickenham’s World Rugby Museum Go to Covent Garden’s Royal Opera House to see Wagner’s The Twilight of the Gods Take in the glorious views from the recently reopened galleries at Westminster Abbey Enjoy the Gothic splendour of St George’s Chapel, in the grounds of Windsor Castle Watch world-class cyclists compete in Six Day London at Lee Valley VeloPark Dodge past the hanging pumpkins at the Warner Bros. Studio Tour’s Dark Arts display Sing along to songs such as Defying Gravity at award-winning musical, Wicked Take a tour of the Temperate House, the refurbished glasshouse at Kew Gardens Get into the Halloween spirit with a theatre visit to watch The Woman in Black

PREVIOUS PAGES: DIWALI ON THE SQUARE COURTESY OF GREATER LONDON AUTHORITY; NFL © JED LEICESTER/NFL; U2 © DANNY NORTH; OKTOBERFEST © OKTOBERFEST. THIS PAGE: TATLIN’S WHISPER © TATE PHOTOGRAPHY; SALLY FIELD © JOHN RUSSO; ZAC BROWN BAND © ZAC BROWN BAND

TANIA BRUGUERA AT TATE MODERN

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On the RIGHT TRACK

St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys

As St Pancras International turns 150 this month, Sarah Riches explores what the grand station has to offer visitors, from a free jukebox to art by Tracey Emin

A

n Elton John gig, retro dance classes and free piano lessons are just some of the recent events that St Pancras International’s 50 million annual visitors have experienced, so if you thought the station was just for catching trains, then think again.

The Grade I-listed building opened on 1 October 1868, with celebrations for its 150th anniversary including a variety of special events, which make the station a destination in itself this month. Whether you’ve got travel plans, five minutes to kill or an evening to fill, why not pass through to shop, eat or catch a performance?

Alternatively, while you’re there, see for yourself where scenes from 2013’s film I Give It a Year and Bollywood’s 2012 Jab Tak Hai Jaan were filmed.

FIVEMINUTE DASH Even in a mad dash for your train you can still stop for a moment to take in some art.

Look out for Martin Jennings’ 2.6m (8.5ft) statue of Sir John Betjeman on the Upper Concourse; the late Poet Laureate is credited with saving the station from demolition in the 1960s. You can also see the 9m (30ft) bronze statue The Meeting Place, by Paul Day. Nicknamed ‘The Lovers’, you’ll find it on the Grand Terrace near the Eurostar arrivals hall.

Look up and you’ll spot Tracey Emin’s piece, I Want My Time with You above the Grand Terrace, in front of the highly accurate

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WHERE NOW | PROMOTIONAL FEATURE St Pancras International station concourse

Eurostar terminal Free-to-play jukebox

The Meeting Place statue

Dent clock, suspended on wires from the station’s iron-and-glass arched roof, where the Olympic rings once hung. The artist unveiled the 20m-long (66ft) pink neon script in April this year, and it will remain on display until the end of the year. Emin says: ‘I cannot think of anything more romantic than being met by someone I love at a train station and as they put their arms around me, I hear them say, “I want my time with you.” It is also a statement that reaches out to everybody from Europe arriving in to London.’ The piece is a commission for Terrace Wires, a programme of new artwork by international artists, now in its sixth year.

The Grand Terrace, meanwhile, is home to three lifesize silhouettes of World War I soldiers, or ‘Tommies’ (to Nov). Designed

by Martin Barraud, the transparent Perspex figures are part of There but Not There,

a country-wide centenary campaign to remember fallen war heroes.

Need a 10-second breather? Then sit on the remains of 2012’s Olympic rings, which have been turned into benches. You’ll find them by the ticket gates for East Midlands and Southeastern trains.

15MINUTE WAIT If you have 15 minutes to kill and you’re musically inclined, seek out the free-to-play jukebox near the Southeastern platforms, which has 57,000 songs to choose from. If you can’t find your favourite, you can request it through the website (www.stpancras.com). www.stpancras.com).

You’ll also find pianos in The Arcade and on the main concourse. Since they were introduced in 2012, the likes of Elton John, Ed Sheeran and John Legend have tinkled the ivories, as have members of the public.

John Legend at the piano

St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys

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WHERE NOW | PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Alternatively, you can enjoy a glass of bubbly with oysters at St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys. Europe’s longest Champagne bar runs alongside three train carriages and is perched above the station terminal, so from your bar stool you’ll have the perfect opportunity to people-watch.

TWO HOURS OR MORE To toast the station’s 150th anniversary, St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys has unveiled a Champagne School.

On the first Wednesday of each month, join a class to sample Champagne and English sparkling wines paired with sharing plates.

You’ll learn how the drink is made in the new Tasting Room or Kitchen Bar. The latter overlooks an open kitchen that is used for occasional chef demo events.

If you agree with the sentiment that the journey is more important than the destination, then make the most of yours by building in some time for afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason. Nibble on sandwiches, pastries and scones with Somerset clotted AN HOUR TO UNWIND cream and strawberry jam, If you have an hour to spare, accompanied by Fortnum’s treat yourself to a drink tea or bubbles. While you’re there, you can made to a Victorian recipe at Booking Office, buy luxury gifts made a cavernous space with by the iconic store.

Begin (or end) a 29m-long (95ft) bar your trip on within the Gothic St a high by Pancras Renaissance booking the Hotel London, which Chef’s Table opened next to the in the engine station in 1873. The venue hosts live music room within The Gilbert Scott, a grand restaurant on Thursday, Friday John Betjeman statue and Saturday evenings. and bar by the Michelin-starred chef

HAPPY BIRTHDAY! To honour the station’s 150th anniversary, look out for special events taking place each month A choir will sing Happy Birthday (1 Oct) by the Betjeman statue, as a cake made by Le Cordon Bleu cookery school is unveiled.

On the same day, the station will host a Beer Festival, as the station’s basement used to be an alcohol cellar. You can sample beer including the new St Pancras 150, and meet the team from JD Wetherspoon, which recently opened The Barrel Vault pub near Marks & Spencer. Meanwhile, the winner of the 12th annual Betjeman Poetry Prize, which is open to 10 to 13 year olds, is announced on National Poetry Day (4 Oct). This year’s theme is ‘place’. The best entrants win cash, Eurostar tickets and a stay at a poetry camp, while the overall winner will become the station’s next Poet Laureate.

Dent clock

Marcus Wareing in the exquisite St Pancras Renaissance Hotel London.

With the luxury of time, book a treatment at the hotel’s St Pancras Spa, which has a sauna, steam rooms, health club and pool.

Housed in the hotel’s former underground kitchens, it has original features such as exposed brick archways, floor-to-ceiling windows and restored Victorian tiles. If you’d rather be active, then take a 90-minute tour of the station with City Highlights. Whether you’re on your own or in a small group, meet your guide outside the National Rail ticket office on the ground floor of the station concourse on the first weekend of each month – the tours take place on either Saturday or Sunday, so check (Sat 6 Oct; 11am).

You’ll learn all about the station’s history and highlights – just don’t miss your train! www.stpancras.com

PREVIOUS PAGES: ST PANCRAS EXTERIOR AND EUROSTAR TERMINAL © ISTOCK; CHAMPAGNE BAR COURTESY OF SEARCYS; ALL OTHER IMAGES © SAM LANE PHOTOGRAPHY. THIS PAGE: BETJEMAN STATUE © SAM LANE PHOTOGRAPHY; CLOCK AND BEER FESTIVAL © ISTOCK

30MINUTE LINGER With a little more time to spare, you can shop for macarons at Ladurée or souvenirs from Things British, which sells only gifts that are handmade in Britain, such as ceramics, furniture, jewellery and accessories – we love the corgi-print socks.

You can also buy souvenirs online to honour the station’s 150th anniversary. Highlights include a pocket square featuring a vintage sketch of the station concourse, a cushion with a monochrome print of the station’s grand architecture, and prints from the 1930s that depict a Nestlé chocolate dispenser, period advertising on a clock and the Gothic train shed.

If you’d prefer a relaxing half hour, then pop in to Eyecandy Beauty Bar for a manicure, massage or an express treatment. Opt for a wax, eyebrow threading or tinting, hair extensions or 15-minute plaiting.

Alternatively, Chop Chop St Pancras by the Eurostar departures lounge offers 24 styles for all types of hair for men, women and children. Each style takes 20 minutes and costs £20.

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TM & © 2018 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. Wizarding World TM & © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc

THE ART OF ART FAIRS As London becomes an art fairground, Emily Tallis guides you through the capital’s diverse fairs. Whether you’re interested in an investment or an alternative day out, enjoy the ride

Clockwise from top left: Frieze London; an exhibit from 18 Davies Street at PAD; light and chair from 88 Gallery at PAD

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ART FAIRS | WHERE NOW

PAVILION OF ART AND DESIGN 17 OCT This is the place to visit if you want to scout out some serious home decor ideas.

Founded in Paris in the late 1990s, PAD arrived in London in 2007, bringing with it awe-inspiring collections of 20th-century art, design and decorative disciplines. The fair in Berkeley Square reflects its prestigious Mayfair surroundings, attracting discerning dealers from all over the world. This year sees 68 international galleries present exquisite pieces, from jewellery and glass to tribal art and sculpture.

Make a reservation at the fair’s restaurant, which is as refined as the showcase, with an exhibition-style set-up. Find it on the upper floor alongside the Champagne Bar – which features floral decoration conceived by the renowned Parisian florist Stéphane Chapelle.

It’s the perfect meeting point to muse over potential purchases. www.pad-fairs.com

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rom JMW Turner’s tempestuous seas to animals sliced in half by Damien Hirst, the UK is known worldwide for its artists.

During October, the global gaze falls on London, as an array of art fairs take place covering a range of genres and mediums.

There are masters to marvel at and emerging talents to discover. If you are hoping to make an artistic investment, now is the time. But the fairs are not just for collectors: there are out-of-this-world installations, thought-provoking talks and fantastic pop-up restaurants, too.

FRIEZE LONDON & FRIEZE MASTERS 47 OCT Even if you are not an art aficionado, it’s likely that you will have heard of one of the biggest art fairs: Frieze London. The fair was established in 2003 by Amanda Sharp and David Slotover, the duo behind the arts magazine of the same name that has become a trailblazer in showcasing contemporary art.

This year, Frieze London debuts the finest contemporary art from approximately 160 galleries worldwide. The new section, Social Work, showcases female artists who actively challenge the male-dominated scene. Frieze’s artistic director, Jo Stella-Sawicka, says: ‘Frieze London programming has evolved this year,

shaped by new curators and urgent political realities. It is 100 years since the first women gained the vote in the UK, so Frieze London will use its international platform to respond to the fact that female artists are underrepresented in art and the market.’

There is also Frieze Film and daily Frieze Talks. Gastronomy options, meanwhile, live up to the calibre of the fair, with London’s restaurant scene’s elite on hand to keep you nourished. River Café makes its debut, joining Richmond royalty Petersham Nurseries, as well as Iberian-African favourite, Moro.

In 2012, Frieze Masters launched, presenting art from before 2000.

Both are within walking distance of each other in Regent’s Park. www.frieze.com w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 15

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Clockwise from top left: Vermibus at Moniker; Erik Jones at Moniker; Joy Labinjo at 1-54 Contemporary African Art Fair; Dennis Muraguri at 1-54 Contemporary African Art Fair

THE OTHER ART FAIR 47 OCT If you are keen to be one step ahead and find The Next Big Thing, this fair is for you.

Charles Saatchi, who launched the YBAs (Young British Artists), including Tracey Emin and Michael Craig-Martin, is behind the fair.

Immerse yourself in Instagram moments, from interactive experiences to installations.

For the first time, the fair will be spread over two sites: the original location in Victoria House on Southampton Row near The British Museum, and its new venue nearby in The College, the Old Central St Martin’s College.

When you enter, you are greeted with a psychedelic installation by the Londonbased illustrator Hattie Stewart. This year’s guest artists include The Connor Brothers, who are exploring men’s mental health. www.theotherartfair.com

154 CONTEMPORARY AFRICAN ART FAIR 47 OCT Set in the spectacular surroundings of Somerset House, 1-54 presents modern work from African countries and their diaspora.

Forty three galleries from across Europe, the Middle East and North Africa will exhibit compelling work by some 130 artists.

FORUM, the fair’s talks platform, will be programmed by the Ghanaian-British curator Ekow Eshun, who worked as the artistic director of the Institute of Contemporary Arts.

Don’t miss Ibrahim el-Salahi’s sculpture, The Meditation Tree, in the courtyard. Founding director Touria El Glaoui says: ‘It’s exciting for us to work with Ibrahim el-Salahi and Larry Achiampong, who create innovative artwork in the UK and internationally.’ www.1-54.com

MONIKER 47 OCT Walk through London’s East End and you’ll see vibrant street art – graffiti is so much more than just Banksy.

Moniker is the world’s largest urban art fair and it returns to Shoreditch for its 10th year.

This year’s theme is Uncensored – an unfiltered and unrestricted celebration of urban art.

Open studios let you witness first-hand how the genre has established its place in the art world. The fair’s director, Tina Ziegler, says: ‘“Art fair” is too limiting a term now: we’re a community space, a festival of a kind, that’s challenging definitions of art and its presentation in the market. An “uncensored” event is the only way of allowing people into the scene and to give them an understanding of the people creating within it.’ www.monikerartfair.com

PREVIOUS PAGE MAIN IMAGE © GALERIE PERROTIN/FRIEZE LONDON; RED © 18 DAVIES STREET/PAD; LIGHT AND CHAIR © 88 GALLERY/PAD;THIS PAGE: KATE © VERMIBUS/MONIKER; ERIK JONES AT MONIKER © ERIK JONES/SPOKE ART GALLERY/MONIKER; JOY LABINJO’S JESUS CHRIST IS LORD, 2017, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND TIWANI CONTEMPORARY, LONDON; LORRY © DENNIS MURAGURI/1-54

WHERE NOW | ART FAIRS

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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS

FROM LONDON As art fairs take place in the city, pick up a portrait of a famous face, from John Lennon to The Queen

MAJESTIC MOMENTS An iconic image of the Queen Elizabeth II print by Pietro Annigoni, £6, National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE

MAKING MEXICAN WAVES These prints coincide with the V&A’s Frida Kahlo exhibition Self-Portrait with Monkeys print, £15, V&A Museum Shop, Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL

PAINT IT BLACK AND WHITE Taken at the Globe Theatre, Stockton Mick Jagger by Ian Wright, £6, National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE

ROYAL RUMBLE A print made using metallic gold ink Rich Enough to Be Batman print by Heath Kane, £150, We Built This City, 56b Carnaby St, W1F 9QF

A PORTRAIT OF THE ARTIST The artist and sitter were friends Portrait of David Hockney by Peter Blake, from £20, Tate Modern, Bankside, SE1 9TG

DRAWING THE LINE An image by the Austrian painter Standing Male Figure by Egon Schiele, from £20, Tate Modern, Bankside, SE1 9TG

STRIKE A POSE Candid images of the London model Kate Moss by Corinne Day, £6, National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE STOCKIST

GIVE PEACE A CHANCE This artist exhibits at Saatchi Gallery John ‘Working Class Hero’ print by Rugman, £150, We Built This City, 56b Carnaby St, W1F 9QF

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Clockwise from top left: London Month of the Dead; Richard Jones’ tour; Jack the Ripper Museum; London Bridge Experience; Stories in Stone for London Month of the Dead

Scare tactics Dogs aren’t just for Christmas, and screaming isn’t just for Halloween. Neil Simpson scares himself silly at some of the capital’s most frightening attractions Nearly every day in October offers an activity to sink your teeth into, thanks to a very creepy month of events – whether you’d like to learn how animal taxidermy is done, walk through a cemetery by torchlight, or even find out how maggots can help to solve a murder.

London Month of the Dead celebrates the great cemeteries of the city, with a percentage of all ticket sales donated to their upkeep.

Most events take place at Fulham’s atmospheric Brompton Cemetery, including ghost stories (27-28 Oct) and an eerie lantern show in the chapel (27 Oct). One of the month’s highlights is the chance to investigate the Museum of London’s bone archive, which is combined with a tour of the City of London’s ancient burial grounds (20 Oct; www.londonmonth ofthedead.com).

You’ll find plenty of events about the maniacal murderer Jack the Ripper to feed your nightmares. The serial killer stalked London’s East End during the 1880s, killing female prostitutes in an incredibly gruesome manner. The killer was never caught. Set in a Victorian house in the area, the Jack the Ripper Museum (p. 40) fills its six floors with details of the murders. The museum’s Bump in the Night event (19 Oct) invites visitors to join the hunt for ghosts, until 2am.

You’ll come across countless tours in the area about the infamous murder spree, but the one to seek out is the two-hour Jack the Ripper Tour, established

by Richard Jones in 1982.

Meet outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East Underground station every night at 7pm. The walk covers the cobbled alleyway

where alleged victim Martha Tabram was last seen alive, as well as the square where the body of Catherine Eddowes was found in 1888. Look out for atmospheric tours by London Ghost Walks, too (www.jack-theripper-tour.com; www.jacktherippermuseum.com; www.london-ghost-walk.co.uk).

Head to the South Bank for a classic London scare: The London Dungeon (p. 28). Join Anne Boleyn on her final boat journey to the executioner’s block, or experience the horror of The Long Drop, a ride which recreates a hanging technique devised at Newgate Prison in 1783. The London Dungeon takes everything up a gear throughout October, as does the London Bridge Experience & Tombs (p. 28), another year-round scare fest inside the old vaults of the bridge. In 2007, a plague pit was discovered here during the London Tombs’ development, so you can rest assured that you’ll be surrounded by centuries of misery and fear as you venture down, past walls dripping with blood and into confined spaces. Even the bravest of souls are certain to be spooked.

LONDON MONTH OF THE DEAD AND RAT COURTESY OF A CURIOUS INVITATION; GHOST WALKS IN THE CITY COURTESY OF LONDON DISCOVERY TOURS; JACK THE RIPPER MUSEUM COURTESY OF JACK THE RIPPER MUSEUM; LONDON BRIDGE EXPERIENCE COURTESY OF LONDON BRIDGE EXPERIENCE; STORIES IN STONE COURTESY OF LONDON MONTH OF THE DEAD

SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

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29 September – 10 December 2018 Principal partner

Supporting partners

See it for free. Become a Friend Female tattooed figure, eighteenth or early nineteenth century (detail). Aitutaki, Cook Islands. Wood, pigment, height 58 cm. Š Five Continents Museum, Munich; photo: Marianne Franke

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SIGHTSEEING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington for grand interiors and art. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm.

Adult £10; child £6. www.english-heritage.org.uk.

149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower offers views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond.

Mon-Fri 11am-4.30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-5.30pm.

General entry: adult £12.50; child £7.50. Entry and slide: adult £17.50; child £12.50. www.arcelormittal orbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Whitehall, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Attend feeding sessions throughout the day. Daily 10am-4.30pm or dusk.

Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk.

Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Chelsea Physic Garden

Dennis Severs’ House

London’s oldest botanic garden, founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. 4 Oct: Behind the Scenes Tour. The head gardener introduces areas not usually seen by the public. 23 Oct: Chocolate Tuesday. This child-orientated event explores the science and history of chocolate. Free daily tours. Sun-Fri 11am6pm. Adult £9.50; child £6.25. www.chelseaphysic garden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of the late artist Dennis Severs. 11 & 18 Oct: Huguenot Festival. Four one-hour tours of the house, conducted by candlelight; £25 per person. Silent Night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevershouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Chiswick House & Gardens

Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Current exhibition, London: A Poem, explores Johnson’s first published work, including its rare first edition and images of 1730s London.

Mon-Sat 11am-5pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.drjohnsonshouse.org.

17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745.

D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

See Old Masters and neo-Palladian interiors in this manor, before it closes for winter at the end of this month. House Wed-Mon 10am-5pm; gardens daily 7am-dusk. House adult £7.50; child free. www.chgt. org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Cutty Sark Climb on board the world’s last surviving tea clipper located in Greenwich. Meet the colourful characters from Cutty Sark’s past and discover stories of life on board the fastest ship of her day.

31 Oct: Halloween Whisky Tasting. Spend the evening beneath the hull of the ship sampling whiskies. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk.

Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 0208312 6608. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

Dr Johnson’s House

Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace.

22-26 Oct: Eerie Eltham. Daytime activities for families, including fancy dress, scary stories and pumpkin carving. Sun-Fri & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adults £15; child £9. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham.

Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map.

Station: Eltham.

The British Library The world’s largest library, with a great permanent collection as well as a programme of exhibitions.

From 19 Oct: Anglo-Saxon Kingdoms: Art, Word, War. British pieces dating from the 5th century and 1066, including the Domesday Book (p. 31).

To 25 Nov: Michael Palin: Writer, Actor, Comedian.

A collection of diaries and photographs. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. Closed, though it’s possible to tour the State Rooms in the summer.

Adult £24; child £13.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Green Park.

Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather).

From 10am; check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300.

F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

The Charterhouse Dating back to 1348, this historic site was originally a burial site during the Black Death, before becoming an almshouse in 1611. 21 Oct: Halloween Family Tour.

This spooky tour sends you on a quest to find the six greyhounds; 45 mins from 11am and noon; adult and two children £10. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm; approximately three tours per day. Museum and chapel admission free; standard tour £10; Brothers’ tour £15. www.the charterhouse.org. Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 020-3818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.

Hitting the high notes Currently in the midst of a major makeover, the Royal Opera House (p. 52) in Covent Garden had put its guided tours on hold this summer, but this month sees their welcome return. On the Backstage Tour (most days Mon-Sat), you can discover the inner workings of the famous venue – props, sets and all – as this world-class hive of opera and ballet prepares for its evening performance. Meanwhile, the Velvet, Gilt and Glamour Tour ushers you inside the auditorium. Built in 1858, it’s as dramatic and glittering as you would expect; you’ll discover the secrets of its architecture and take a peek inside the Royal Retiring Room, used by royal visitors. If you can’t spare the time for an evening of opera during your trip, this is a great introduction to a grand and stunning institution.

THE ROYAL OPERA HOUSE © SIM-CANETTY CLARKE

Changing the Guard

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SIGHTSEEING Fulham Palace This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London (p. 38).

Now, it’s a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens and tours. To 28 Oct museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun & bank hols noon-5pm. From 29 Oct Mon-Thur 12.30pm-3.30pm; Sun & bank hols noon-4pm.

Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Go Ape Alexandra Palace An obstacle course with bridges and zip lines at this palace on a hill. Daily; check for times and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.

Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children and adults. Open daily; check online for times and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with gardens that are said to be haunted. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. To 28 Oct general admission daily noon-4pm; garden admission daily 10am-5pm. From 29 Oct general daily 1pm-4pm; garden daily 10am-4pm.

Adult £11.05; child £5.50. www.nationaltrust.org.uk.

Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950.

Off map. Station: Richmond.

Blooming brilliant Did you know that Russell Square has been home to writers Charles Dickens, Virginia Woolf and EM Forster? Even singer Bob Marley settled here for six weeks during 1972. Every year, this small area’s rich culture is celebrated at the Bloomsbury Festival (17-21 Oct).

Events to look out for include a street party starring young circus performers (19 Oct) and a 1920s-themed evening of jazz, cocktails and theatre at the Bloomsbury Club Bar (20-21 Oct). There’s also a free, suffragette-themed scavenger hunt across the weekend. www.bloomsburyfestival.org.uk

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SIGHTSEEING Handel & Hendrix in London

Houses of Parliament

The Jewel Tower

Former homes of composer George Frideric Handel and musician Jimi Hendrix. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live Baroque music every Wed and Sat 11.30am1.30pm. Please check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handel hendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a palace.

To 6 Oct: Voice and Vote: Women’s Place in Parliament. Marking 100 years since the first women were given the right to vote. Tours every Sat from 13 Oct. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit.

Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

HMS Belfast This ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. It was in service until 1965. Daily 10am6pm. Adult £15.45; child £7.70. www.iwm.org.uk.

The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 0207940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet. See his paintings, books and letters.

To 14 Oct: Keats and Milton: Paradise Lost. Read Keats’ thoughts as he scribbled across Milton’s verse. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm; 30-min guided tour at 3pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Dukes and Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex reside. Don’t miss Diana: Her Fashion Story, a fashion collection dedicated to her style. Daily 10am-6pm.

Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map.

Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its gardens is a hidden gem. Admire an art collection made up of Rembrandts and Vermeers.

To 28 Oct daily 10am-5pm; from 29 Oct daily 10am-4pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage. org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Kids can try TV presenting or ‘work’ in animation studios, a chocolate factory and an aviation academy. Daily from 9.30am or 10am, closing times vary; closed 1-2, 8-9 & 15-16 Oct. Advance: adult from £15; child from £18. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania. co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset.

Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Actors bring this attraction to life (p. 22). Tickets include the London Tombs, which are located in a former plague pit. Check for times and prices. www.the londonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and smell the ‘bad old days’ (p. 22). Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your memories using #eyelovelondon. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Check for times and prices. www.london eye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

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SIGHTSEEING ZSL London Zoo

Madame Tussauds

The Monument

Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure and endangered Sumatran tigers. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, In with the Lemurs and Camel Chat, while the ‘Junior Keeper for a Day’ package allows visitors to meet and feed a variety of animals. To 19 Oct daily 10am-5.30pm; from 20 Oct-27 Oct daily 10am-5pm; from 28 Oct 10am-4pm. Adult £27.04; child £20. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, including the Queen and Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the film and the chance to stand with the royal family on Buckingham Palace’s balcony. Other recent additions include Mo Farah. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times.

Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/ london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000.

C6. Station: Baker Street.

This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb 311 steps for a view. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions (p. 54). This month, the latest trampoline park from Oxygen Freejumping opens. www.theo2.co.uk.

Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000.

Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training and tours. Check for guided tours. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Please check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympic park.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe (p. 59). 20-28 Oct: Siyanda, Protector of Plants. A puppet guides you through the Temperate House to learn about South African plants. To 27 Oct daily 10am-6pm; from 28 Oct daily 10am-4pm. Adult £17; child £5; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The all-new Chelsea FC Museum and Tour experience.

Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Check for full programme of talks.

Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Royal Mews This beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Witness daily working life and learn about the mews’ history, such as the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first-ever journey and interactive, 360-degree photography of the Gold State Coach’s interior. Kids will enjoy learning how to harness a horse. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £11; child £6.40; under-fives free. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Royal Observatory

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Stand astride the historic Prime Meridian where east meets west, and take your place at the centre of the world. Uncover the history of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and see clocks and timepieces that have literally changed the world. The refurbished planetarium’s daily programme includes Phantom of the Universe, which explores dark matter and the Big Bang: adult £8; child £5.35. Daily 10am-6pm.

Adult £15; child £6.50. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map.

Station: Greenwich.

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SIGHTSEEING SEA LIFE London

St Katharine Docks

St Paul’s Cathedral

One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and a glass walkway above sharks. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london.

County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Waterloo.

This central London marina dates back to the 11th century. The destination has markets and shops. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and on to the Golden Gallery for views. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

Shrek’s Adventure!

Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-tale-themed shows. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times.

Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com.

Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, live classical music and an alfresco café. 31 Oct: Halloween Party.

The church’s first Halloween party, including a fancy dress competition; £35 per person. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal life of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne.

Please check for tour times. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

8 JUNE – 14 OCTOBER 2018 Includes A Prince’s Tour of India 1875–6 and Four Centuries of South Asian Paintings and Manuscripts

OLD ENGLISH HEXATEUCH (COTTON MS CLAUDIUS B IV, F. 19R) © BRITISH LIBRARY BOARD

National pride Gather round, it’s time for a history lesson. In the 5th century, the final Roman soldiers left Britain, replaced by settlers from Germany, Denmark and the Netherlands. These plucky newcomers became known as the Anglo-Saxons, and they lived happily until France’s Duke of Normandy captured the English crown in 1066.

The British Library commemorates this with Anglo-Saxon Kingdoms: Art, Word, War (from 19 Oct; p. 24).

The manuscripts span 600 years and are astoundingly well-preserved. The Domesday Book is on loan from The National Archives in Kew and contains England’s first public records. The book details the lands captured by the French, while the Codex Amiantinus, a huge copy of the Bible, has not been seen in England for more than 1,300 years.

www.royalcollection.org.uk +44 (0)303 123 7301 www.wheretraveler.com 31

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SIGHTSEEING Tower Bridge Exhibition

Up at The O2

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London

This breathtaking bridge, built in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check for bridge lift times, which can be as many as eight times a day. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Prepare for a 90-minute experience which will take you on an expedition across the roof of The O2.

Please check for times. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk.

The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 0208463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut and Diagon Alley. To 10 Nov: Dark Arts. In celebration of Halloween, the Great Hall is filled with pumpkins, while Diagon Alley will become a scary and sinister place. Please check for times. Adult £41; child £33. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour. co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Tower of London This historic landmark includes Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels.

Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. To 28 Oct, daily 10am-10pm; from 29 Oct, Sun-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-10pm.

Advance adult £24.50, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com.

32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. To 28 Oct daily 10am-5pm, from 29 Oct 10am-4pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk.

Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 0207930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. In June, the Abbey unveiled its first major structural addition: The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries.

Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-2pm; closed 13 Oct. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only, adult £22; child £9.

Abbey and The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, adult £27; child £9. www.westminsterabbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to over 100 species of rare and wild birds.

5 Oct: Bats, Bugs & Beers. An adults-only evening exploring the wetlands in the dark, during which you’ll search for animals including bats and hedgehogs, before enjoying a beer around a campfire. £25; booking essential. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12.72; child £7.72. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400.

Off map. Station: Barnes.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks Approximately 10 free, themed walking tours per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. www.bee-midtown.org.

Departure points vary.

T: 020-7078 7077.

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SIGHTSEEING Big Bus Tours

Kia Oval Tours

The London Helicopter Tour

Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours.

A one-day orientation tour includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise.

Adult £37; child £19.20. www.bigbustours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

Tour of the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. See the architecture and history. www.kiaoval.com. Kia Oval, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.

Big Bus Walking Tours

Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this tour led by a former cocoa trader. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm; tours last two hours 30 minutes. £15 for Where London readers (usually £40). www.tourguides.org.uk. Green Park station, by exit closest to The Ritz. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.

Discover the capital from the view of a helicopter.

Departing from London’s only heliport. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Prices start from £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade. Departs from the Big Bus bus stop (number 15) in Trafalgar Square. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets.

Daily 10.30am. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from Big Bus stop 15, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.

London Chocolate Tours

London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. Saturdays 5pm. Tickets £24, booking strongly advised. www.londonliterary pubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people.

Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including Doctor Who and Downton Abbey tours. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

City of London Guides Walks Walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market.

Prices range from free to £12.50. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.

Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon, as well as all the London sights. Check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Brighton. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7630 2039.

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours

NELSON’S COLUMN © KEITH MINDHAM PHOTOGRAPHY

See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes an English-speaking guide who will describe the sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during which you can hop on and off the bus. Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48and 72-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7630 2039.

Hairy Goat Photography Tours Offering exploratory photography tours alongside personal, tailor-made or regular group workshops, the acclaimed Hairy Goat offers both daytime and evening options. Discover pubs, alleys, churches and architecture. www.hairy goat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-832771.

Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous Jack the Ripper (p. 22). Numbers are limited. Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Exit 4, Aldgate East station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. www.wheretraveler.com 33

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SIGHTSEEING London Magical Tours

London Walks

Original London Sightseeing Walk

Award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings.

Discover the UK with your own tour team with no parking worries. Multilingual guides are available in all languages. www.londonmagicaltours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.

London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours and there’s no need to book. There are Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

London Tailored Tours

Neverland Children’s Tours

Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners.

Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter, London Sports, ‘Girls Day Out’ and ‘A Royal Morning in London’. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com.

T: 07498-036295.

Offering supervised activities for children with the aim of Neverland Children’s Tours is to make London sightseeing interactive and fun. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 020-3239 5059. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm, or Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. Picture London at 11.30am; Royal London at 2.30pm and Haunted London at 6pm. £5 each, or £10 for all three walks. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 0208877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 9.30am-4.30pm; no tours on 6, 10 or 17 Oct. Adult £14; child £7. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Hot on the heels of her cousin Harry, Princess Eugenie is set to wed Jack Brooksbank in St George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle (12 Oct; p. 36). As she is ninth in line to the throne, there will be a little less fuss than there was for Harry and Meghan’s nuptials in May. The couple are due to ride through the town in a horse-drawn carriage, while you can rest assured that the royal family will be in attendance. Located less than 30 miles west of London, Windsor is easily accessible from the capital.

WINDSOR CASTLE © SHUTTERSTOCK

Fit for a princess

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SIGHTSEEING Royal Opera House

London Eye River Cruise

Thames River Services

One of the world’s leading opera venues, home to The Royal Ballet company and currently undergoing refurbishment work. A variety of tour options offer access to the auditorium (p. 24). Backstage Tour most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm; Velvet, Gilt and Glamour Tour from 2 Oct, selected days 4pm; Covent Garden Legends and Landmarks Tour from 2 Oct, selected days 2pm. £10-£15 per person. www.roh.org.uk/tours. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-8.30pm.

Adult £13.50; child £10. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/ river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10am-4pm; from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11am-5pm. www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 0207930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz hotel. Tours last 90 minutes.

Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off advance adult £16.30, child £8.15; on the day adult £19.50, child £9.75. www.mbnathamesclippers.com.

T: 020-7001 2200. Departure points vary.

Thamesjet Try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, please check for times. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. Station: Westminster.

Shakespeare’s Globe Shakespeare’s Elizabethan Globe Theatre has the city’s only thatched roof, while its Sam Wanamaker Playhouse has a candle-lit space. Tours every 30 min, Mon 9.30am-5pm, Tue-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm, Sun 9.30am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespearesglobe.com.

21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Twizy Tours Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy, then drive yourself through the streets of London by an entertaining, GPS-guided audio tour. Prices from £29.99 per tour. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium. com/tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Yonda On a Yonda tour, you’ll feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights – and little-known cobbled streets. The car is fitted with technology that guides you. Tours 90 minutes. £30 per tour in a two-seat convertible car; £40 per tour in a four-seat car, with a clear panoramic roof. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier.

Boats depart every 40 minutes. Daily departures 11am-5pm. Adult single £10.25, return £15.25; child single £6.50, return £10. www.circularcruise.london.

Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier. It includes music and food. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com.

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SIGHTSEEING

Westminster Abbey

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when Elias Ashmole left his collection to Oxford University. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm. Free admission, charges for exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org.

Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000.

Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

So many secrets waiting to be revealed

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6.30pm or dusk; formal gardens daily 10am-6pm; Orangery Restaurant closed 11-14 Oct; please check for closing times from 29 Oct onwards.

Adult £27; child £16.50. www.blenheimpalace.com.

Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, hidden for 700 years

Hampton Court Palace

Book online today for fast track discounted entry Faith at the heart of the nation

westminster-abbey.org

Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. To 27 Oct daily 10am-6pm; from 28 Oct daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £22.70; child £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Leeds Castle Fairy-tale, 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, visit the Birds of Prey Centre and watch a falconry display. Grounds and garden daily 10am-5pm; castle 10.30am-4pm. Adult £25.50; child £17.50; under-fours free. www.leeds-castle. com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Explore the town of Windsor and nearby Eton College, using 11 bus stops. Adult £13; child £7.

Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £45; child £22. www.theoriginaltour.com. Theatre Royal Windsor, Thames St, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1PS. T: 020-8877 1722. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of the Royal Mile, against the backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

TOY DEMONSTTTIONS, PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES, COMPETITIONS, A FLYING SNITCH AND MUCH MORE!

NOW OPEN! #HarryPotteratHamleys FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT HAMLEYS.COM/HARRYPOTTER

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is over 5,000 years old.

To 15 Oct daily 9.30am-7pm, from 16 Oct daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home. This is where the Duke and Duchess of Sussex wed, and where Princess Eugenie will marry on 12 Oct (p. 34). Daily 10am-5.15pm; closed 11-12 Oct. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

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London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See

By Night

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £18 Child - £10

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

www.seelondonbynight.com

LONDON’S MOVING RESTAURANT Travel through the heart of the city and enjoy the striking sights, live entertainment and delicious food on board our ‘f loating restaurant’.

I

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LUNCH AFTERNOON TEA DINNER

I EVENTS I GIFTS

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@BateauxLondon

/bateauxlondon

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Making a night of it As Museums at Night returns to the capital, Neil Simpson finds out how you can experience attractions in a different way the LSE community, The Citizenship Test exhibition (25 Oct) charts the UK’s relationship with the EU (www.lse.ac.uk).

Alternatively, escape the crowds of zone one with a twilight trip west to Putney.

Fulham Palace has put together a Tudor Treasure Hunt (26 Oct; p. 26), where ticketholders can explore the building while following a scavenger hunt packed with mystery and puzzles. Fancy dress, live shows and music add to the special event.

Even if you’re not in the capital in late October, there are many other after-hours events. Join a late-night style session at the Fashion and Textile Museum’s Revival Retro evening (18 Oct), celebrating its new exhibition Night and Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs (from 12 Oct). The evening centres around a 1930s-influenced fashion show – dressing up is actively encouraged (www.ftmlondon.org).

Also new is the Hayward Gallery’s big autumn show, Space Shifters (from 26 Sep; p. 42). As this refurbished South Bank gallery is open until 9pm every Thursday, you can enjoy late-night opportunities to experience an exhibition that challenges your sense of space in disruptive and confusing ways.

No matter where your cultural explorations take you, just don’t be afraid of the dark. www.museumsatnight.org.uk

From top to bottom: Fun at Museums at Night; London Transport Museum; Hayward Gallery

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

As autumn creeps up on us and darkness descends, you might be tempted to huddle in your hotel or plot up in a pub.

If you’re in the mood for something unique, however, there are far more memorable evenings on the horizon. Museums at Night, a twice-yearly festival, is back (25-27 Oct), disrupting the dark with beams of culture.

This cultural highlight sees tourism hotspots – and less likely venues around the city – present one-off events, letting visitors experience these places in a new way.

The London Transport Museum, for example, takes visitors back to the 1980s with Power, Play and Politics (26 Oct; p. 40) for an evening of bingo, video games, pop music and rave culture. Meanwhile, just down the Strand, things take a dark turn at Benjamin Franklin House (p. 39). This 18th-century townhouse, once home to the American Founding Father, was also the place where 1,200 bones were discovered in the basement. Why were they there and what were they used for? Find out at the Craven Street Bones sessions (27 Oct).

If you’re a political type or news junkie, you’ll be enraptured by a free event at the London School of Economics. This Holborn institution is opening up its library for two hours, dedicating it to an unavoidable affair: Brexit. A joint effort between members of

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel, the dugout and more, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tours from 11am onwards (check for dates and times). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided: adult £23; child £15.

Legends: adult from £40; child from £20. Museum only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal.com/tours.

Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 0207619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank.

Exhibits include its books, silver, paintings, coins and photographs. It also has fun activities for kids.

From 1 Oct: Feliks Topolski: Drawing Debden.

A series of sketches by Topolski reveal how banknotes were made during the late 1950s, at the Bank’s printing works in Essex. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankof england.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

FACING PAGE: IMAGES COURTESY OF MUSEUMS AT NIGHT; THIS PAGE: THE PRESENTATION OF CHRIST IN THE TEMPLE © FONDAZIONE QUERINI STAMPALIA, VENICE

Benjamin Franklin House Charming townhouse and the last remaining home of the American Founding Father (p. 38). 23 Oct: Family Day: Halloween. Games and ghost stories told by an actress playing Franklin’s landlady; 4pm-5pm. Look out for architectural tours and historical experience shows. Architectural tour: adult £6; child free. Historical Experience: adult £8; child free. www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org.

36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8.

Station: Charing Cross.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours

The Fan Museum

Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ex-players tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm.

Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15. www.chelsea fc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan.

Afternoon tea is served in the orangery, which has a large mural. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm.

Adult £5; child £3. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk.

12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441.

Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Churchill War Rooms

Learn about the British nurse and health reformer.

Free 15-min tour Mon-Fri 3.30pm; Sat-Sun 11.30am & 3.30pm. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II to plot the Allied victory. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. www.iwm. org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Clink Prison Museum This former prison dates back to 1144 and is said to be haunted. Hands-on exhibits reveal London’s penal past. It’s said to be haunted. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Design Museum This is one of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture.

To 6 Jan: Beazley Designs of the Year 2018. This popular display celebrates design that promotes or delivers change. Daily 10am-6pm; first Fri every month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org.

224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Florence Nightingale Museum

The Guards Museum Discover the history of the five regiments of the Foot Guards. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park.

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the adventurer, Frederick John Horniman. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake.

Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Body Worlds From 6 Oct: This museum brand is known around the world and specialises in the human body.

Its new, permanent London flagship is housed in the restored London Pavilion. See 200 exhibits exploring how every part of the human body works, using the latest plastination know-how.

Sun-Thur 9.30am-7pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-9pm. Adult £24.50; child £17.50. www.bodyworlds.co.uk. The London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities. Huge number of permanent displays including items from the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt and Medieval Europe.

To 20 Jan: I Object: Ian Hislop’s Search for Dissent. The British satirist Hislop curates this exhibition, which questions how accurate our collective history is.

Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.british museum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 0207323 8299. D7/8. Station: Russell Square.

Charles Dickens Museum The former home of the Victorian novelist, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. To 11 Nov: Charles Dickens: Man of Science. Exhibition exploring how Dickens worked to explain advancements in science to his readers. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. www.dickensmuseum.com.

48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8.

Station: Russell Square.

A family affair The first thing to know about The National Gallery’s new exhibition is that it is very much a family affair. Mantegna and Bellini (from 1 Oct; p. 42) features two celebrated Renaissance artists, presenting the belief that neither would have achieved greatness without the other. A painter from Padua, Andrea Mantegna married into Venice’s legendary Bellini family of artists in 1453. Giovanni Bellini became his brother-in-law and they worked closely together for seven years, at which point Mantegna left to paint for Mantua’s powerful Gonzaga family. The exhibition includes two of their paintings: side-by-side, both men painted the same New Testament scene, The Agony in the Garden, which gives perspective on their similarities and differences.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments.

Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables. Museum daily 10am-6pm.

Adult £8; child £6. www.householdcavalrymuseum. co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster.

Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to global conflicts, from World War I to contemporary confrontations.

To 31 Mar: Renewal: Life after the First World War in Photographs. Charting the progress made around the world as communities rebuilt after World War I. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North.

Jack the Ripper Museum

Jewish Museum This centre documents Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, and includes a lifelike representation of the East End’s Jewish immigrant quarter. The Holocaust Gallery displays a harrowing collection of accounts. Daily 10am5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum At the restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton, see paintings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with tiles from the Middle East.

Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm; tour every Wed and Sun (included in admission). Adult £9; child £7. www.rb kc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 0207602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the film series. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London Mithraeum On the site of Bloomberg’s European headquarters, this cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago.

Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun & bank hols noon-5pm; first Thur of the month 10am-8pm. Admission free. www.londonmithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500. D10. Station: Bank.

London Transport Museum Located in the Grade II-listed Flower Market, this museum displays the story of London’s transport system. See posters promoting the Underground (p. 38). Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising More than 12,000 items reveal how consumers’ lives have changed over the past 200 years through iconic consumer brands. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £8.18; child £5. www.museumofbrands.com.

111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611.

Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.

It takes two A visit to the brilliant Barbican Art Gallery usually leaves visitors feeling closely acquainted with the artists’ work on display, so we can’t think of a better place for its new, intimate look at love in art. Modern Couples: Art, Intimacy and the Avant-garde (from 10 Oct; p. 42) tells the stories of creatives who became more than just friends. The gallery makes room for dozens of these relationships, from powerhouses such as Pablo Picasso and Dora Maar, and Virginia Woolf and Vita Sackville-West, to the crowded partnership of George Platt Lynes, Monroe Wheeler and Glenway Wescott. The gallery’s mission is to celebrate decades-long marriages and brief, passion-filled affairs, exploring how each of these encounters influenced the artists’ work. Covering people working in various creative fields, from photography to dance, you’re bound to find something to refresh your faith in love.

Museum of London

Natural History Museum

The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits in nine galleries. To 11 Nov: London Nights. This photography exhibition depicts the capital after dark from the late 19th century to the modern day, via photography, film and documentaries. Check for regular family events.

Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumof london.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery, to dinosaur skeletons and fossils.

To 6 Jan: Life in the Dark. Discover how animals have adapted to life in the dark. Daily 10am-5.50pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Museum of London Docklands Discover the history of the Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the area.

To 28 Oct: Roman Dead. Exhibition investigating the rituals followed by Roman Londoners as they buried their dead (minimum age eight). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk.

No.1 Warehouse, Hertsmere Rd, E14 4AL. T: 0207001 9844. Off map. Station: West India Quay.

National Maritime Museum Get up close to the objects that made history, from iconic maritime exhibits to great British art, at the world’s largest maritime museum.

Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk.

Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map.

Station: Greenwich.

The Postal Museum This museum tells the story of the ‘first social network’, with exhibits exploring postal history, including old post boxes. Daily 10am-5pm.

Museum only: Adult £11, child free. Museum and Mail Rail: Adult £17.05; child £10.45. www.postal museum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show, including a F-35 fighter jet. The new site now includes two galleries. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.rafmuseum.org.uk.

Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

See gold bars at the Bank of England Museum (p. 39)

HEAD, 1936 BY REUBEN MEDNIKOFF © THE MURRAY FAMILY COLLECTION; GOLD BARS COURTESY OF BANK OF ENGLAND MUSEUM

More than just an exploration of Jack the Ripper’s terrible crimes, within this Victorian house you’ll discover the history of east London. Daily 9.30am 6.30pm. Adult £12; child £8. www.jacktheripper museum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 020-7488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Science Museum

The Wallace Collection

Guildhall Art Gallery

A huge, family-friendly museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements. There’s also a Red Arrows 3D flight simulator and an IMAX theatre with 3D science films.

From 6 Oct: The Sun: Living with our Star.

More than 100 objects demonstrate how the sun has been harnessed by humans. Daily 10am-6pm; 4 Oct 10am-4pm; adult-only Lates programme last Wed of every month, 6.45pm-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

The former Wallace family home displays their art, including Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. Daily 10am5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org.

Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite pieces.

Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

This exquisite 19th-century townhouse and library was owned by the distinguished architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation. Wed-Sun & bank hols, 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.soane.org.

13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107.

D8. Station: Holborn.

Somerset House This neo-classical, 18th-century building on the Thames houses galleries, cafés and restaurants.

From 25 Oct: Good Grief, Charlie Brown! Fans of Charles M Schulz’s Peanuts will enjoy this look at his original works. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; SatTue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s history.

Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk.

216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9.

Station: Temple.

Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years. To 24 Feb: Videogames: Design/Play/Disrupt. Exploring videogame design influences, as well as their cultural impact .To 4 Nov: The Future Starts Here. Discover the innovations aimed to change our worlds. To 27 Jan: Fashioned from Nature. Innovative fashion, designed to provoke discussion on sustainability. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of artefacts relating to health and the body.

From 4 Oct: Living with Buildings. Exploring the relationship between human health and spaces.

Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcome collection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 0207611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits worn by champions.

Daily 10am-5.30pm. Museum: adult £13; child £8.

Museum & Tour: adult £25; child £15. One free child with every full-price adult ticket. www.wimbledon. com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields, then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

World Rugby Museum Relaunched following a significant refurbishment, this is a showcase for global rugby culture. Tue-Sat & bank hols 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Museum adult £12.50; child £7.50. Museum and stadium tour adult £25; child £15. www.worldrugbymuseum.com.

Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, TW2 7BA. T: 0208892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.

GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces.

From 10 Oct: Modern Couples: Art, Intimacy and the Avant-garde. Celebrating creatives who became more than friends, including Pablo Picasso and Dora Maar (p. 40). Barbican Centre Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 11am-11pm. Art Gallery Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur-Fri 10am-9pm. The Curve Sat-Wed 11am-8pm; Thur-Fri 11am-9pm.

Please check for prices. www.barbican.org.uk.

Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

Feel the heat The Science Museum approaches its new exhibition from a human angle: how do the residents of Earth relate to the sun?

The Sun: Living with our Star (from 6 Oct) takes you on a trip through history to discover objects that demonstrate how the sun tells the time, makes us feel better and may one day power the modern world.

Learn about the gargantuan nuclear fusion reactions that take place inside the sun, which scientists are studying feverishly in an attempt to recreate on Earth, then see a display of solar imagery taken over the past 400 years. There’s even an actual solarium – a great way to guarantee autumn sunshine.

Hayward Gallery This recently refurbished gallery is the home of arts at the Southbank Centre (p. 38).

To 14 Oct: Drag: Self-portraits and Body Politics. Created between the 1960s and the present day, these self-portraits all depict artists in drag. Mon, Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-7pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Free admission; charges for certain exhibitions. www.southbankcentre.co.uk.

Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries.

From 1 Oct: Mantegna and Bellini. See the work of two celebrated Renaissance artists (p. 39).

Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery Prominent gallery, depicting British people in art.

To 21 Oct: Michael Jackson: On the Wall. A look at the artists inspired by the King of Pop, including Andy Warhol. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, with several temporary exhibitions. Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11am6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4; child free. www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk.

16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300.

D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Queen’s Gallery This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions.

To 14 Oct: Splendours of the Subcontinent. A celebration of South Asian art and manuscripts spanning the past 400 years.

Daily 10am-5.30pm; closed between exhibitions.

Adult £12; child £6. www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301.

F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with RA Collection.

To 20 Jan: Renzo Piano: The Art of Making Buildings.

Celebrating The Shard architect’s impressive buildings. To 10 Dec: Oceania. This celebrates the diverse art of the region of Oceania. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk.

6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Green Park.

Royal Society of Sculptors Located within Old Brompton Road’s Dora House, this hub for professional sculptors hosts a regular series of sculpture exhibitions. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat 1pm-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors. org.uk. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 0207373 8615. Off map Station: Gloucester Road.

IMAGE COURTESY OF NASA/SDO AND THE AIA. EVE AND HMI SCIENCE TEAMS

Sir John Soane’s Museum

Wellcome Collection

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Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art. This is home to an impressive collection by Turner.

From 24 Oct: Edward Burne-Jones. This British artist produced fantastical paintings, tapestries and stained-glass work. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern World-class, international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station.

From 11 Oct: Anni Albers. More than 350 pieces showcase Albers’ woven creations, drawings and paintings. To 20 Jan: Christian Marclay’s The Clock.

This installation combines clips from films and TV shows, depicting 24 hours in real time. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

Whitechapel Gallery This East End gallery showcases a range of modern art. To 6 Jan: Surreal Science: Loudon Collection with Salvatore Arancio. See the Italian artist’s responses to George Loudon’s collection of scientific objects. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel.org.

77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

Visit London and see the world!

Discover the treasures of world cultures, from Egyptian mummies and ancient Greek sculpture to African art and Chinese porcelain.

The Museum’s audio guide helps you make the most of your visit. Find out more about the Museum’s most popular objects or take a themed tour – it’s up to you. The audio guide is available in 10 languages. britishmuseum.org Sponsored by

THE DOOM FULFILLED BY EDWARD BURNE-JONES COURTESY OF TATE BRITAIN

Heroic work As Victorian London marched towards an industrialised world of smoke, dirt, metal and noise, one of the era’s most celebrated British artists drifted away in the other direction. His name was Edward Burne-Jones, and his creations are celebrated in Edward Burne-Jones at Tate Britain (from 24 Oct). Active during the second half of the 19th century, Burne-Jones looked backwards to myths and Biblical legends for his inspiration. This resulted in dramatic depictions of Greek hero Perseus in which colours are bright, bodies are formidable and high drama rules. This is the stuff of superhero movies, a century before anyone had heard of The Avengers. www.wheretraveler.com 43

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

The bigger picture The film industry comes together in all its razzle dazzle to celebrate the silver screen at the 62nd BFI London Film Festival, says Sarah Riches It was the year Prime Minister Harold Macmillan declared Brits ‘had never had it so good’ – so perhaps it’s no coincidence that 1957 was also the launch year of the BFI London Film Festival, which was then dubbed the London Film Festival. Now in its 62nd year, the festival (10-21 Oct) has proved to be far-reaching and diverse.

Catch talks, premieres and workshops with industry experts, kicking off with the international premiere of Widows at Cineworld in Leicester Square.

Co-written by Academy Award-winning British director Steve McQueen (12 Years a Slave) and US author and screenwriter Gillian Flynn (Gone Girl), the thriller is based on a TV series of the same name.

This year’s festival’s artistic director is Tricia Tuttle, who has stepped up to the role while Clare Stewart is on sabbatical.

Tuttle says: ‘We treasure the work of BFI fellow and festival alumnus Steve McQueen, so it’s an utter pleasure to open our festival with Widows. Adapted from a UK television classic into a feature to

savour on the biggest cinema screens, this is scintillatingly rich storytelling from a magnificent filmmaker, probing issues around race, class and gender, while always delivering immense style and crackingly sharp thrills.’

Set in Chicago, Widows follows a group of women left in debt by their dead husbands’ criminal pasts. It has a stellar female-led cast made up of the Oscar and Academy Awardwinner Viola Davis (Veronica), Michelle Rodriguez (Linda), Elizabeth Debicki (Alice) and Cynthia Erivo (Belle).

They star alongside Liam Neeson, Colin Farrell, Robert Duvall and Brian Tyree Henry, as well as Daniel Kaluuya (Get Out), Jacki Weaver (Silver Linings Playbook) and Lukas Haas (The Revenant).

The UK premiere of The Favourite (18 Oct), also at Leicester Square’s Cineworld, is set in the early 18th century, with England at war with France. It follows Queen Anne (Olivia Colman), her friend Lady Sarah (Rachel Weisz) and the arrival of their new servant Abigail (Emma Stone).

On the same night, watch some of Britain’s earliest films on the BFI IMAX’s big screen at The Great Victorian Moving Picture Show. The films, some of which are just one minute long, have been restored thanks to the BFI National Archive.

The festival closes with the premiere of Stan & Ollie in Leicester Square (21 Oct). Starring Steve Coogan and John C Reilly, who will be in attendance, the film follows Hollywood double act, Laurel and Hardy, as they travel around the UK on their last tour. www.bfi.org.uk

PHOTO CREDIT WIDOWS COURTESY GOESOF HERE TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX; BFI GALA © GETTY IMAGES/GARETH CATTERMOLE

Circle: Widows Below: BFI London Film Festivalo

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw. Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm (& 23 Oct).

Tickets £27.25-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical. co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Alternative Miss World 20 Oct: The Alternative Miss World returns to

Shakespeare’s Globe. Since 1972, artist Andrew Logan has hosted his celebrated pageants, attracting global audiences and contestants.

Without any rehearsals, anything can happen, and often does. Please check for times.

Tickets £25-£50. www.shakespearesglobe.com.

Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Art of the Teese 25-27 Oct: The American burlesque star Dita Von

Teese wows in designer heels, corsets and feathers as she stripteases on stage. Her signature Martini glass is one to remember (p. 82). Please check for returns. 7.30pm. www.artoftheteese.com. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Bat Out of Hell This brilliant Meat Loaf jukebox musical returns to London. Set in the dark post-apocalyptic world of Obsidian, it features motorbikes and flames on stage, plus a cracking soundtrack. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£150. www.batoutofhellmusical.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Divine Proportions

Hamilton

A night of wining, dining and entertainment inspired by the story of Dionysus. Please check for times. Over 18s. Tickets £35-£55. www.thevaults. london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.

This award-winning musical about the life of the American Founding Father Alexander Hamilton is sung and rapped. The music and lyrics are

by Lin-Manuel Miranda. Please check for times.

Tickets £15-£75. www.hamiltonthemusical.com.

Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0800-988 4440.

E7. Station: Victoria.

Dreamgirls To 12 Jan: This musical follows the tumultuous

journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £19.50-£175. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Eugenius!

To 7 Oct: A fun musical inspired by comics. Please check for times. Tickets £19.50£54.50. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. F7.

Station: Victoria.

Heathers the Musical This dark comedy, set in a high school, is based on the cult 1980s film that starred Christan Slater and Winona Ryder. It features new songs and stars Carrie Hope Fletcher (Les Misérables, Addams Family Tour) as Veronica. Under-14s must be accompanied by an adult. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£75. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 0207930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Kinky Boots

This feel-good new musical is set on a council estate in Sheffield, South Yorkshire, and tells the story of 16-year-old Jamie and how he overcomes bullies. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk.

Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

A fun musical about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

42nd Street

Les Misérables

Everybody’s Talking About Jamie

Directed by Mark Bramble, this romantic comedy follows an authoritarian director as he stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk.

Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £42.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

THE EMPEROR AND THE CONCUBINE © THE CHINA NATIONAL PEKING OPERA COMPANY

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Winner of four Olivier Awards.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com.

Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.

Chicago the Musical Come for the jazz, stay for the dark comedy and lively dance numbers. It stars the British singer Alexandra Burke. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£150. www.phoenixtheatre london.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Company Marianne Elliott directs this Broadway musical, which features Stephen Sondheim’s hits. It follows Bobbie on her 35th birthday party as her friends wonder why she hasn’t settled down: the lead role is reimagined as a woman for the first time.

Check for times and prices. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

Lost love The China National Peking Opera Company returns to Sadler’s Wells with the opera master Mei Lanfang’s The Emperor and the Concubine (19-20 Oct; p. 50).

This love story is based on a true 7th century tale, with a plot akin to a Chinese Antony and Cleopatra. Emperor Tang (Yu Kuizhi) mourns the death of his mistress, Yang Yuhuan (Li Shengsu), which results in him neglecting his duties – giving rebels the chance to revolt and seize his land. The show provides a taste of Chinese culture through traditional opera, dance and mime, martial arts and acrobatics, as well as the company’s trademark elaborate face paint and costumes – think embroidered silk and headdresses decorated with crystals and beads. www.wheretraveler.com 45

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Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm.

Tickets £23-£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk.

Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello Theatre, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers.

Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (& 25 Oct); Sun 3pm. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Motown the Musical Brilliant feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and The Temptations. By the end of the night you’ll be Dancing in the Street. Please check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com.

Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomoftheopera.com.

Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and it’s a smash here, too. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£150. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Strictly Ballroom the Musical To 20 Oct: This musical adapts Baz

Luhrmann’s 1992 film of the same name for the stage. It follows Scott, a competitive ballroom dancer who insists on bending the rules. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£99.50. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tina: The Tina Turner Musical This musical is based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, a farmgirl from Tennessee who went on to become the Queen of rock ‘n’ roll – Tina Turner.

Expect songs including the hit What’s Love Got to Do with It? and The Best. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£149.50. www.tinathemusical. com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Trench From 10 Oct: Olivier Award-nominated

Les Enfants Terribles bring their signature style of visual storytelling to the stage with this World War I epic, which blends live music, puppetry and physical performance. It’s based on a true story.

3pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £12-£20. www.southwark playhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234.

Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Wasted To 6 Oct: Through the lens of a rock documentary, this show gives an access-allareas account of the struggles, heartbreaks and triumphs of the three Brontë sisters (Charlotte, Emily and Anne) and their brother Branwell.

Brought up in a remote, poverty-stricken town in Yorkshire, they fought ill health, unrequited love and family feuds to write some of the most celebrated literature including Jane Eyre and Wuthering Heights. Please check for times. Tickets £14-£25. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234.

F10. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Darkest hours If you followed the plight of the Thai boys trapped in a cave this summer, then the predicament of the lead in The Trench at Southwark Playhouse (from 10 Oct) will feel even more acute.

Inspired by a true story, the play follows Bert as he sets mines in a tunnel during World War I. When a blast traps him underground, darkness overcomes him and the line between fantasy and reality blurs. Is he dreaming, or are the mythical creatures real? Will he die, or be reunited with his newborn? The show blends poetry, mime and projections, with haunting music played live. The set is stark, but then so is Bert’s situation.

Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk.

Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

PLAYS A Very Very Very Dark Matter From 12 Oct: This world premiere is a story about the children’s author Hans Christian Andersen. The true source of his stories dwells in his attic upstairs, her existence a dark secret kept from the outside world (p. 47). Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Ticket: £15-£65. www.bridgetheatre. co.uk. Bridge Theatre, 3 Potters Field Park, SE1 2SG. T: 0333-320 0051. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Antony & Cleopatra To 19 Jan: Ralph Fiennes and Sophie Okonedo play the ill-fated couple in this Shakespearean tragedy.

Check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre. org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Comedy About a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.the comedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Dance Nation To 6 Oct: An army of competitive dancers is ready to take over the world, one routine at a time. With a pre-teen battle for power and perfection raging on and off stage, Dance Nation is a ferocious exploration of youth. Please check for times and prices. www.almeida.co.uk.

Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Don Quixote From 27 Oct: After a lifetime of reading books on chivalry, an eccentric old man heads off on a quest to become a knight, accompanied by his faithful yet equally ill-suited servant. This comedy was previously at the Swan Theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon. Please check for times.

Tickets from £10. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

Dust To 13 Oct: Following a run at Edinburgh Fringe 2017 and Soho Theatre, this play transfers to the West End. Alice thinks life isn’t worth living, so she kills herself. But she’s stuck, like a fly on the wall. Forced to watch the aftermath of her suicide and its ripple effect on her family and friends, Alice quickly learns that death changes people. Suitable for over-18s.

Check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com.

Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Please check for times.

Tickets £67.50-£74.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com.

Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

THE TRENCH COURTESY OF SOUTHWARK PLAYHOUSE

Disney’s The Lion King

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ENTERTAINMENT

Telling tales Top talents are joining forces to bring the world premiere of A Very Very Very Dark Matter to the Bridge Theatre (from 12 Oct; p. 46). Written by Martin McDonagh (Hangmen, The Lieutenant of Inishmore, Three Billboards Outside Ebbing), the dark comedy is set in Copenhagen during the Victorian era. The play is a fictional and disturbing account of the life of Hans Christian Andersen, the Danish author best known for fairytales such as The Little Mermaid, Thumbelina and The Ugly Duckling.

The story delves into Anderson’s inspiration: a disturbing secret which the writer hides in his attic.

Directed by Matthew Dunster, it stars the BAFTA and Academy Award-winner Jim Broadbent.

The Lehman Trilogy To 20 Oct: Sam Mendes directs this play about the three siblings who set up the Lehman Brothers bank, which, when it collapsed 163 years later, triggered the 2008 financial crisis.

This show has received rave reviews. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk.

National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 0207452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Lover/The Collection To 20 Oct: Playful and provocative, The Lover features a conventional, suburban couple in unconventional circumstances. The Collection meanwhile, is hailed as one of the outstanding plays of the 20th century by Laurence Olivier.

It delves into the intriguing mystery of two London couples linked by sexual desire and a quest for supremacy. Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Measure for Measure Artistic director Josie Rourke’s production imagines this Shakespeare play in its original year of performance, 1604, and in 2018. Check for times.

Tickets £10-£40. www.donmarwarehouse.com.

Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Mousetrap Foxfinder

The Importance of Being Earnest

To 20 Oct: Michael Fentiman’s Olivier Award-winner Iwan Rheon (Game of Thrones) witty new production of Oscar Wilde’s romance stars alongside a cast of TV regulars in this West stars Olivier Award-winner Sophie Thompson End premiere of Dawn King’s dystopian thriller.

(Guys and Dolls, Four Weddings and a Funeral) and England is in crisis. Fields are flooded, food is Jeremy Swift (TV’s Downton Abbey). Please check scarce and fear of the ‘red beast’ grips the land. for times and prices. www.vaudeville-theatre.

William Bloor, a foxfinder, arrives at Judith and co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. Samuel Covey’s farm to investigate a suspected T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/ fox infestation. The Coveys’ harvest has failed Covent Garden. to meet their target and the government wants to know why. Trained from childhood, William The Inheritance is fixated on his mission to unearth the animals Following a sold-out run at the Young Vic, Matthew that must be to blame for the Coveys’ woes.

Lopez’s major two-part world premiere arrives in But as the hunt progresses, William finds the West End, directed by Olivier Award-winner more questions than answers.

Stephen Daldry. A generation after the Please check for times and prices. peak of the AIDS crisis, this play www.theambassadorstheatre.co.uk. explores what it is like to be a young Ambassadors Theatre, West St, gay man in New York. Suitable for WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. over-14s; under-16s must be sat Each Les Misérables D7. Station: Leicester Square. next to their accompanying adult.

JIM BROADBENT COURTESY OF A VERY VERY VERY DARK MATTER

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child

show uses 31 wigs, 392 costumes and there are 101 people in the cast and crew

The long-awaited parts I and II of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story have already won many awards.

Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never really wanted. Most tickets sold out; please check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813.

D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Height of the Storm From 2 Oct: This new play stars Jonathan Pryce (Miss Saigon, Evita, Tomorrow Never Dies) and Dame Eileen Atkins, a three-time Oliver Award winner. André and Madeleine have been in love for more than 50 years. This weekend, however, something feels unusual… Check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk.

Noël Coward Theatre St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140.

E8. Station: Leicester Square.

A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515.

D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Othello André Holland takes the title role in this Shakespearean tragedy about a general whose jealousy is exploited by his junior officer, Iago (Mark Rylance). Rylance has been receiving brilliant reviews, as has director Claire van Kampen. Please check for times. Tickets from £5. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£72. www.theplay thatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sketching

It’s impossible not to empathise with refugees when you become one, at this semi-immersive show set in the refugee camp in Calais. Directed by Stephen Daldry, it received critical acclaim in its sold-out run at the Young Vic and has now transferred to the West End. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£69.50. www.atgtickets.com.

Playhouse Theatre, Northumberland Ave, WC2N 5DE. T: 0844-871 7631. E8. Station: Embankment.

To 27 Oct: Charles Dickens’ London is reimagined for the 21st century in this new play in the Victorian music hall. It’s 24 hours in the life of a city that has 371 people in every square kilometre, where every street and square shelters heroes and villains, emotional turmoil, violent allegiances, adventures, the remarkable and the everyday. Please check for times. Tickets £7-£33. www.wiltons.org.uk. Wilton’s Music Hall, 1 Graces Alley (pedestrian access only), E1 8JB. T: 020-7702 2789. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

King Lear

Stories

Ian McKellen has received critical acclaim for his portrayal of a mad king in the title role of this Shakespearean tragedy. Check for times. Tickets £25-£145. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

From 10 Oct: How do you have a baby when you’re 39 and single? This funny and touching new play is filled with unexpected characters and curious plot twists. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£55. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Jungle

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ENTERTAINMENT The Winter’s Tale To 14 Oct: In a fit of groundless

jealousy, Leontes wrecks his marriage, defies the gods, destroys his family and ruins himself. As the years roll around, a new generation flee their own country and take refuge in Sicilia. Unknowingly they bring with them the key to the past, present and future. Please check for times. Tickets £5-£22. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Witness for the Prosecution

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 14 Oct: London Symphony Orchestra performs

a symphonic love letter to the Czech countryside.

24 Oct: The Australian Chamber Orchestra performs Bach, Beethoven and Bartok. 24 Oct: As part of

the Crouch End Festival Chorus, music from Romeo and Juliet and West Side Story is performed in this concert celebrating 100 years since the birth of composer Leonard Bernstein. 5.30pm. Tickets £16£56. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

This play is based on Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama of the same name and is staged in a former courtroom. Directed by Lucy Bailey, the audience acts as the jury for Leonard Vole, who is accused of murdering a widow to inherit her wealth. Tickets from £10-£75. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. www.witness countyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8.

Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Cadogan Hall

The Woman in Black

Kings Place

A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. The play was later turned into a hit film starring Daniel Radcliffe.

Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £21.50-£52. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

21 Oct: The European Doctors’ Orchestra

opens with Dukas’ The Sorcerer’s Apprentice, well known from the version animated by Walt Disney in Fantasia. Jack Liebeck, the 2010 winner of the Classical Brit Award for Young Artist of the Year, joins the Orchestra to perform Dvořák’s Violin Concerto. 3pm. Tickets £15-£32. www.cadogan hall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 0207730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

19 Oct: Triumph of Time and Truth. Instruments of Time and Truth are joined by Oxford Voices and a stellar line-up of soloists for this rare performance of Handel’s eponymous oratorio, which was both his first and last. 7.30pm. Tickets £29.50-£49.50. www.kingsplace.co.uk. 90 York Way, N1 9AG. T: 020-7520 1490. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.

Dancing on air One of the world’s best ballet dancers is coming out of retirement to perform at the Royal Albert Hall. This is a rare chance to see Carlos Acosta – A Celebration (2-5 Oct; p. 50), which is a tribute to the Cuban dancer’s 30-year career, featuring his favourite pieces. The former member of The Royal Ballet will perform alongside dancers from his own company, Acosta Danza, and a live orchestra. Highlights include Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui’s Mermaid, which was created for Acosta, Christopher Bruce’s Rooster, which is set to a Rolling Stones’ soundtrack, and a reworked version of Acosta’s Carmen.

THE ULTIMATE

THRILLER

SUSAN HILL’S

ADAPTED BY

FORTUNE THEATRE

RUSSELL STREET, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON

0844 871 7626

thewomaninblack.com

Calls cost 7p per minute, plus your phone company’s access charge

CELEBRATING THREE SPINE - TINGLING DECADES OF WEST END THEATRE

CARLOS ACOSTA © MANUEL VASSON

STEPHEN MALLATRATT

48 W H E R E LO N D O N I O C TO B E R 2018

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ENTERTAINMENT Royal Albert Hall London’s premier music hall, home to the BBC Proms. 2-5 Oct: Carlos Acosta. The revered Cuban choreographer performs classical ballet to celebrate his career (p. 48). Please check for prices. www.royalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Festival Hall 4 Oct: See the former Genesis guitarist Steve

Hackett live as he returns to an orchestral format, playing with his electric band and an orchestra in a special Genesis Revisited concert. £34.50-£49.50.

7.30pm. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555.

E8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 0207381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD

times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com.

Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212.

F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Jazz Cafe

DANCE

This live music venue and club specialises in jazz and funk. 8 Oct: A Night of Marvin Gaye. 20 Oct: The Steam Down Orchestra. 25 Oct: Heather Pearce. 30 Oct: Carla Bley Trios. Please check for times and prices. www.thejazzcafelondon.com.

5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map.

Station: Camden Town.

The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 2-3 Oct: Shania Twain. 19 Oct: Enrique Iglesias. 23-24 Oct: U2.

28 Oct: Counting Crows. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club

Enjoy an extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts. The venue also has a café in the basement. www.smitf.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

London’s most famous jazz venue opened in 1959.

3-5 Oct: Larry Carlton. 11-12 Oct: Mark Guiliana Jazz Quartet. 15-20 Oct: The Mingus Big Band.

22-24 & 26-27 Oct: Kurt Elling. Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk.

47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Wigmore Hall

Royal Albert Hall

13 Oct: Veronika Eberle plays the violin, while

4 Oct: Late Night Jazz – The MGM Musicals.

8 Oct: The Best of the West End. 12 Oct:

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church

Dénes Várjon is on the piano. Expect Bach, Bartók, Janácek and Schumann. 7.30pm. Tickets £18-£40. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Symphonic Pop by the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. 14-15 Oct: Cliff Richard. 19-20 Oct: Guys and Dolls live in concert. Please check for

Barbican 17-20 Oct: Colin Dunner: Concert. Two artists united by a deep appreciation of tradition yet compelled by their desire to break it apart: Colin Dunne takes on the ‘undanceable’ music of the enigmatic Tommie Potts (1912-1988). Part of Dance Umbrella. Please check for times. Tickets £18. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 0207638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Royal Festival Hall 4-5 Oct: Red. Beijing-based choreographer

Wen Hui invites you to look again at a famous Chinese ballet from the period of the Cultural Revolution. Her docu-drama features dance and filmed interviews with the original cast members. Please check for times. Tickets £20. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8.

Station: Waterloo.

Sadler’s Wells 19-20 Oct: China National Peking Opera Company’s The Emperor and the Concubine (p. 45) is a love story based on a true tale from the 7th century. Expect opera, dance, mime and martial arts (p. 45). Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

’TOP END ENTERTAINMENT… DELICIOUSLY ENTERTAINING’ WHAT’S ON LONDON

BE PART OF THE SHOW! TORQUAYSUITETHEATRE.COM (+44) 0845 154 4145 RADISSON BLU EDWARDIAN BLOOMSBURY STREET HOTEL |

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ENTERTAINMENT

OPERA London Coliseum This is the home of the English National Opera. Productions are sung in English.

From 11 Oct: Porgy and Bess. The famous George and Ira Gershwin show. Bess’s love for Porgy saves her from her dark past with Crown.

But old habits die hard. When Crown returns, will a new life with Porgy save Bess from herself?

From 25 Oct: Lucia di Lammermoor. With themes of rival families, thwarted love, unhealthy obsessions and a doomed political marriage, Lucia di Lammermoor is Donizetti‘s most compelling romantic drama. Based on Walter Scott’s novel The Bride of Lammermoor, the story traces how Lucia, an innocent woman, is manipulated by the men in her life until, no longer willing to submit to their control, she descends into insanity. An example of the bel canto school of 19th-century Italian opera, Donizetti’s score is full of beautiful melodies as well as psychological insights. Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House 8-30 Oct: Mayerling. Dangerous desires, family

secrets and political intrigues twist through every moment of daring choreography in Kenneth MacMillan’s ballet, which is inspired by true events. Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria-Hungary is emotionally unstable and haunted by his obsession with death. He is forced to marry Princess Stephanie.

Soon afterwards his former lover Marie Larisch

introduces him to a new mistress, Mary Vetsera, a young woman who shares his morbid fascinations.

To 31 Oct: Siegfried. The third opera in Richard Wagner’s epic cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen revels in its depiction of heroism even as it sets up the cycle’s dramatic conclusion.

Siegfried, the child of Siegmund and Sieglinde, has been raised by Alberich’s brother Mime. Mime plans to use Siegfried to take back the ring from Fafner, but Siegfried rebels against his guardian.

To 26 Oct: Das Rheingold. Antonio Pappano conducts the first opera in Richard Wagner’s Der Ring des Nibelungen, with a cast including John Lundgren and Johannes Martin Kränzle. The dwarf Alberich forsakes love so that he may steal the Rhine’s gold. A ring is crafted from that gold, invested with great power.

Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk.

Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS The Luna Cinema To 6 Oct: This annual summer festival of outdoor film screens classic films and blockbusters such as Moulin Rouge! and Harry Potter and The Philosopher’s Stone under the stars at iconic venues around London and the UK, from Alexandra Palace near Wood Green to Crystal Palace Park in south London. Take a blanket and a pillow from your hotel to sit on. Check for times and prices. www.thelunacinema.com.

T: 0844-858 6767.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES Baby Show If you are looking to launch a theatre-going habit into young ones, take them to Baby Show.

The theatre’s ever-popular sensory performance includes captivating images and intriguing sounds that keep little ones entertained. These are based on the elements: cold, heat, wind and rain.

The show playfully explores getting ready to go outside. Babies can sit on the floor on cushions or on chairs and benches. The show lasts between 30-40 minutes and was created by Sarah Argent and Kevin Lewis. Book a morning performance and enjoy a complimentary hot drink. Please check for times and prices. www.unicorn theatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

The Everywhere Bear The bear has a wonderful time with the children in Class One, but one day he gets more than he bargained for when he falls unnoticed from a backpack and embarks on an adventure.

He’s washed down a drain and whooshed out to sea, rescued by a fishing boat, loaded on to a lorry and carried off by a seagull. How will he make it back? This story, from best-selling author Julia Donaldson, springs to life with puppets.

Aimed at children aged three to eight. Adult £13.50; child £11.50. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787.

Off map. Station: Angel.

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‘HILARIOUS, MOVING, GLORIOUS’ THE DA I LY TEL EGR A P H

THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com

CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU

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ENTERTAINMENT Five Little Monkeys 12-14 Oct: Join zoo keeper Sue and mischievous Little Monkey as they discover numbers that are all around us. Packed with bold, engaging puppets and a musical mash-up, the makers of Dogs Don’t Do Ballet (Little Angel Theatre) bring the universally popular song to life. Learn to love counting during a riot of music, numbers and clowning. Please check for times and prices. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map.

Station: Wimbledon.

IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE

Hey Diddle Diddle 25-28 Oct: Ever wondered how a cow jumped over the moon or why the dish ran away with the spoon? With original songs played live on stage, puppetry and lots of jokes, this new show is a musical celebration about the importance of imagination. Suitable for three to eight year-olds.

Please check for times and prices. www.littleangel theatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map.

Station: Angel.

Mouth Open, Story Jump Out

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To 27 Oct: Polarbear makes things up: stories, jokes, adventures – he’s a master maker-upper. But where did it all begin?

The production is about the moment that started it all, and how one little decision set off a chain reaction that changed his life forever. International assassins, secret codes, dog-eating boa constrictors and more emerge when a father disappears and a boy discovers a talent for telling tales. This is an inspiring show about the creative potential inside all of us by one of the UK’s most respected spoken-word artists. Check for times and prices. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560.

E10. Station: London Bridge.

Tap Dogs From 23 Oct: This Olivier Award-winning tap dance show will keep all ages happy. The global smash hit has appeared in more than 330 cities on six continents and has been seen live by more than 12 million people. The troupe also performed at the opening ceremony of the Sydney Olympics. Please check for times and prices. www.peacocktheatre.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8.

Station: Holborn.

Taj Express 2-20 Oct: Enjoy classic and modern dance

routines from Bollywood cinema. You can also book a 90-minute dance class where you can learn Bollywood routines. www.peacocktheatre.com.

The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.

Three Sat Under the Banyan Tree

THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | ESSENTIALS | FIRST VISIT ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS

To 21 Oct: Near the foothills of the Himalayas, three orphans open a magical book under a Banyan tree. They were told the book wouldn’t give them answers but they’d learn from it, so they stir a pot of milk and watch as three stories of the forest rise from the pages.

Stories of headstrong crows, a mongoose who wants a family and a brave leopard come vibrantly to life, with masks, movement and music. Polka is co-producing the first stage adaptation with Tara Arts. Please check for times and prices. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

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The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) welcomes the world’s travel & tourism industry

andriuXphoto.com

Preferred charity partner

Please visit the concierge desk during your stay - nobody knows the UK like Les Clefs d’Or.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Time for tea England is synonymous with tea, so visit these terrific tea shops from the old to the new, says Kohinoor Sahota Drinking tea is perhaps one of the most British of pastimes. We love tea so much, we apparently drink 165 million cups of the stuff every day. But drinking it isn’t enough – that’s why we have an entire ceremony: afternoon tea. In fact, the writer Henry James remarked: ‘There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea’.

Want to recreate the joy of a good brew?

Then discover these terrific tea shops.

TWG recently opened in Leicester Square – it has outlets in Knightsbridge and Harrods, but this is its largest, standing at more than 650 square metres and stocking 800 types of tea. Inside, there’s a tea salon and artefacts such as tea caddies and Russian samovars (kettles that look like urns). The Singaporean brand was launched 10 years ago. CEO and co-founder Taha Bouqdib says: ‘We want to be more open to the younger generation.

Everyone is welcome to this tea club.’ This view explains the colourful packaging, and items from iced tea bags to tea-scented candles (48 Leicester Square, WC2H 7LT).

Mariage Frères – which has been in Paris since 1854 – has recently opened its first London flagship: a five-storey tea emporium.

The variety is staggering, so much so that the floor-to-ceiling wall of tea is the longest tea wall in the world, with 1,000 teas from 36 countries. What makes this place special is that it also has private dining rooms, including one with a terrace (38 King St, WC2E 8JS).

The Taiwanese teahouse XU in Chinatown is also new. While the focus is the teahouse, bar and restaurant, its shop sells tea bags imported from Taiwan, too (30 Rupert St, W1D 6DL).

As for a long-standing place, they don’t get older than Twinings (p. 59), which makes tea fit for a Queen – it is a Royal Warrant holder, which means it supplies its products to the royal family. Located on the Strand since 1717, this is the oldest tea shop in London. After working for the East India Company, Thomas Twining set up the shop and it quickly became known for its blends.

Today it sells all sorts of teas, from classic English breakfast to herbal varieties.

Gift sets include hampers with biscuits and teapots.

You can also participate in classes and tea tastings.

MARIAGE FRÈRES COURTESY OF MARIAGE FRÈRES; TWININGS TEAPOT COURTESY OF TWININGS; TWININGS EXTERIOR © ISTOCK; XU COURTESY OF XU

Clockwise from this image: Mariage Frères; Twinings; Twinings teapot; XU

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS

Hamleys

Burberry

Here you can find sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Huge toy shop. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com.

188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Browse the full collections. www.burberry.com.

121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches).

T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Covent Garden

Harrods

Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs and products (multiple locations). www.chanel. com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB. T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park.

Carnaby

This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

King’s Road The iconic street attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square bustles with a deli, clothes shop and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores, plus high-street chains. D6/D7.

Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.

Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard. E7. Station: Green Park.

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Browse food and meat halls, fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5.

Station: Knightsbridge.

John Lewis At this famous British institution, find covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods.

Mon-Wed, Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711.

D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Liberty Visit this mock-Tudor building, which is famous for its trendy prints on everything from scarves to notebooks. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Selfridges

Chanel

Christian Louboutin Add a little ooh-la-la to your wardrobe with a pair of chic red-soled shoes (multiple locations). www.christianlouboutin.com. 17 Mount St, W1K 2RJ. T: 020-7491 0033. E6. Station: Green Park.

Gucci As one of the most desirable luxury brands in the world, Gucci brings its legendary Italian quality and innovative design to London (multiple locations). www.gucci.com/uk. 18 Sloane St, SW1X 9NE. T: 020-7235 6707. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village

This is the largest shop on Oxford Street. Visit for the finest products in beauty and fashion, as well as bars and restaurants. Mon-Sat 9.30am10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com.

400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6.

Station: Bond Street.

Find discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Check for times. www.bicester village.com. Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major London hotels.

FASHION

Westfield London

Fortnum & Mason

Banana Republic

This British institution is famed for its food hall.

Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The flagship store for this American company has men and women’s clothes. www.bananarepublic.eu.

224 Regent St, W1B 3BR (and branches). T: 0207758 3550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

This huge mall has more than 450 shops, from high-street names to luxury brands. It is also home to KidZania, where children can play while parents shop. www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Shopping with style

THE O2 © ISTOCK

Calvin Klein, Jack Wills and Kurt Geiger aren’t normally associated with The O2 (p. 30), one of the world’s most iconic music venues. But the arena is undergoing a major refurbishment and ICON Outlet (from 20 Oct) is opening with numerous restaurants, bars and, of course, shops. The retail experience includes personal shoppers, stylists and concierge luggage drops. ICON Outlet’s leasing director Marion Dillon says: ‘ICON Outlet will be a destination that caters for all needs. It will bring together choice, value and inspiration in a location that is not only one of the easiest to reach in London, but has a reputation for providing the best experiences for tourists, existing visitors to The O2 and a new generation of consumers.’

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SHOPPING Rolex

Patek Philippe & Co. Boss Porsche Design Bang & Olufsen

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SOUTH KENSINGTON (0.4miles)

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ST O NS T R SN DRE S O AN DE AN

Chocolatier Godiva is located inside Harrods, the world-famous department store. This chocolate shop has mouthwatering truffles, which are presented in beautiful boxes. The café serves a huge choice of treats from chocolate cakes to hot chocolate.

Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.harrods.com

SS N O ON LT T A AL

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Godiva

WM Hawkes & Son

MEW GDNS EWS S M

D R RD MM AA L HL H U F FU

Katharine Pooley

Moncler Louis Vuitton

Prada Loro Piana Giuseppe Zanotti

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18 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7QN. T: 020-7980 8427. www.burberry.com

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Boodles Topshop Dar al Teeb Knightsbridge Watches Tommy Hilfiger Seiko The Kooples Hogan Furla AllSaints Graff Anne Fontaine Ted Baker Bonpoint Russell & Bromley Diesel Joseph KNIGHTSBRIDGE Gucci Roberto Cavalli Zara Rochester Big Fendi D & Tall Clothing A DSpace NK Giambattista Valli O OA Dior R Godiva Jimmy Choo N N Rat Harrods Bottega Veneta O Crockett & T OJones Harrods R ESCENT P T R ESCENT M M PSunglass Hut O O Pinko R RReiss Tod’s BB Giorgio Armani Nespresso

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Sloane Street & Knightsbridge

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SHOPPING Westfield Stratford City

Japan Centre

Huge mall with 270 shops, a cinema and casino and outdoor spaces including a playground. www.west field.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.

Seek out this subterranean shop for matcha, fans and ceramics. www.japancentre.com. Please check for opening times. 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

London Glassblowing

David Morris

Pick up a souvenir and try glassblowing at the UK’s leading studio and gallery for glass art. www.london

glassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Twinings This shop, which has been trading since 1706, is filled with teas and infusions (p. 56). Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

Couture jewellery made to the highest standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.

Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/ en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop

Kew Gardens (above) is one of the most beautiful places in London, and this month there is even more reason to visit as The Handmade Fair (4-7 Oct; p. 30) takes place. Textiles, glass and furniture are just some of the items you can find, as the fair brings together more than 150 designers, both international and from the UK, and gives you the chance to shop for unique gifts. MADE London (18-21 Oct) also lets you look at lovely objects in a grand setting: it takes place in One Marylebone, a former church designed by Sir John Soane.

There are more than 120 exhibitors showcasing accessories, fashion items and homeware. www.madelondon-marylebone.co.uk

ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW © ISTOCK

Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created

by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Making it up

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ORCHAR

SHOPPING

OXF

BARRE

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SHOPPING

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SHIPPING COMPANIES If you are buying items that you don’t wish to carry home, here is a selection of central London companies that can assist in delivering your goods. Please check the websites below for your most convenient branch.

Post Office: The Plaza Oxford St, W1D 1LT. 54-56 Great Portland St, W1W 7NE. 111 Baker St, W1U 6SG. 32a Grosvenor St, W1K 4PA.

SIZING GUIDE SHOES US

UK

CLOTHES Euro

US

MAIN IMAGE © WESTFIELD; HARRODS © VISITLONDON IMAGES/BRITAINONVIEW; CARNABY STREET AND PACKAGE © ISTOCK

WOMEN 5 6 7 8 9 10

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34 36 38 40 42 44

Mail Boxes ETC: 72 Great Titchfield St, W1W 7QW. T: 0207-580 9111.

9 Russell Square, WC1B 5EQ.

28 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3SS. T: 020-7581 2825.

For all branches: T: 0845-611 2970. www.postoffice. co.uk

95 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1BZ. T: 020-7630 8123. www.mbe.co.uk

DHL: Ryman, 227 Kensington High St, W8 6SA. T: 020-7937 1107

Pack & Send: 1 Rockley Rd, W14 0DJ. T: 020-8749 8842.

MEN (CHEST) 41 42 43 45 46 47

S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

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CHILDREN

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UK

Ryman, 64 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3LQ. T: 020-7581 0858

24 25.5 27 28 29 30.5

4-5yrs 6-7 8 10 12 13

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

OPENING TIMES Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item.

Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 61

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Catch of the day To honour this month’s national Seafood Week, Sarah Riches dives into some of the capital’s finest fish restaurants

Whole Devon brown crab at Oystermen Seafood Bar & Kitchen

When it comes to fish restaurants, this city is a real catch – so Seafood Week (5-12 Oct) is a great excuse to celebrate the seafood scene at new and traditional venues.

Aptly named after the Roman god of the sea, Neptune (p. 64) recently opened in The Principal London hotel in Bloomsbury. The restaurant is a joint venture between chef Brett Redman and Margaret Crow, the duo behind The Richmond gastropub in Hackney.

The Grade II-listed dining room was designed

by Russell Sage Studio, which also created The Savoy Grill, and Angela Hartnett’s Café Murano and Merchants Tavern.

While tall ceilings, columns and elaborate plasterwork make it suitable for a business lunch, at night the lighting softens the peachy walls, which are livened up with lipstick-redand-pink velvet chairs, set against hanging plants, making it ideal for a romantic dinner.

For a light bite, try the caviar on potato waffles with Jersey cream; the smoked eel chowder, quail eggs and curry butter or oysters sourced from independent producers from around the UK. Go big and order the made-for-Instagram seafood platter, which might include spider crab or scallop carpaccio. Mains include hake with butter beans; clam spaghetti in butter sauce; and wood-grilled, dry-aged Dexter steak.

Stay for cocktails at the pewter-top bar.

Like Redman’s wine bar (Elliot’s in Borough) it features mostly natural wines, which are curated by France’s only female Master of Wine (MW), Isabelle Legeron – one of only 370 MWs around the world. For something different, try an island wine from Corsica, Santorini, Tenerife, Sardinia or Sicily (www.neptune.london).

Proving there’s plenty more fish in the sea, you could also dine at Oystermen Seafood Bar & Kitchen in Covent Garden, where chef Alex Povall – previously of Merchants Tavern and Café Murano – is at the helm. The restaurant is soon expanding into the property next door, which will provide an extension with room for an oyster and raw bar.

At the moment however, the venue (and menu) is small but perfectly formed, so bag a seat and order British oysters alongside cockles, mussels and clam chowder. If you’re in a hurry, choose coley in a bap with tartare sauce and pickles, which you can pair with Champagne (www.oystermen.co.uk).

If you’d rather dine at a traditional seafood restaurant, then head to Scott’s in Mayfair, which opened as an oyster warehouse in 1851, making it one of London’s oldest eateries.

You’ll go for the oysters, though stay for the razor-sharp service and razor clams, as well as its caviar and main courses such as roasted cod with cauliflower purée. But wherever you go, the capital’s seafood scene will have you hooked (www.scotts-restaurant.com).

OYSTERMEN SEAFOOD BAR & KITCHEN © GREG FUNNELL PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

DINING | THE GUIDE

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DINING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80+. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 80-81

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Gaucho Try Argentine steaks in this wine bar, terrace and lounge. ££££. Daily L & D. www.gauchorestaurants. co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR (and branches).

T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman New York steakhouse with quality US and British beef. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodman restaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe This legendary burger joint has rock memorabilia, a fun vibe, jumbo wings and nachos. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com.

150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700.

E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Fera at Claridge’s

Rex Whistler Restaurant

Art Deco restaurant serving local, organic and British dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Dine on dishes such as seafood bisque in a dining room with a whimsical, century-old mural. ££.

Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Great Court Restaurant

Sophie’s Steakhouse

Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room, under the domed roof. ££.

Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. The British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

This new Soho branch has an open kitchen and a large covered terrace at the front. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.com. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and branch). T: 020-7836 8836. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Holborn Dining Room

St Pancras Brasserie

Smart brasserie next to the Rosewood hotel serving classic British dishes with a twist, plus a seafood counter. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

Magpie

Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse. co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Casual, top-notch dining with intricate dishes – made in the open kitchen – arriving at the tables on trolleys, dim-sum style. Try the baby squid with spicy Calabrian sausage, grilled turnip and mussel sauce. Highly recommended. £££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.magpie-london.com. 10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX. T: 020-7287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Oblix

The Montague

Sophisticated rotisserie with a grill and wood-fired oven serving dishes such as suckling pig for two.

The views from midway up The Shard are stunning. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com.

Level 32, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

This brasserie offers seasonal dishes and weekend brunch. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.londonchurchill. regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 0207299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

JW Steakhouse

All-day British brasserie-style dishes in an ornate dining room. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys stpancras.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900.

C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

VIVI Try seasonal dishes, afternoon tea or a pre-theatre menu. Glass walls make it great for people-watching. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.vivirestaurant.co.uk.

Centre Point, 11 St Giles Square, WC2H 8AP. T: 0208812 3200. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Butlers Restaurant This elegant Mayfair restaurant is known for its Dover sole and afternoon tea. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Planet Hollywood Hollywood-inspired dining experience with movie memorabilia, and an international menu featuring Asian stir-fries, steaks and sliders. ££.

Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard Contemporary cuisine and fantastic views at this restaurant on The Shard’s 31st floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Caxton Grill

DEATH + VICTORY COURTESY OF SMITHS OF SMITHFIELD

Superb selection of steaks cooked on a Josper grill, plus seafood dishes. There’s also a bar and terrace. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk.

2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7.

Station: St James’s Park.

Darwin Brasserie Dine on level 36 of the ‘Walkie-Talkie’ as you try burrata, imam bayildi (aubergine) with yoghurt or roasted sea trout. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

Fenchurch Restaurant This smart brasserie on the roof of the ‘WalkieTalkie’ has spectacular views. It serves Cornish mackerel, Isle of Mull scallops and Devonshire lamb – and the desserts are something special. £££. Daily L & D. www.skygarden.london.

20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020.

E11. Station: Monument.

Another level Smiths of Smithfield has reopened following a refurbishment, so each of the four floors in this Grade II-listed building now has a different vibe. Smiths Café & Bar, on the ground floor, is a casual spot, while the first-floor bar Death + Victory serves cocktails inspired by the area’s 800-year history. Want to stay for a meal? Then relax in a leather booth in The Grill on the second floor, which features exposed brick and pipes – its open kitchen serves burgers and 28-day aged steak. Meanwhile, the romantic rooftop No. 3 Restaurant & Bar has floor-to-ceiling windows and an outdoor deck overlooking the market.

67-77 Charterhouse St, EC1M 6HJ. T: 020-7251 7950. www.smithsofsmithfield. co.uk. D9. Station: Farringdon

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DINING Café in the Crypt

Min Jiang

Ting

Dine on homely, good-value dishes underneath the church or outside in the courtyard. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martinin-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 0207766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Enjoy park views over Sichuan dishes, dim sum and spicy seafood. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3.

Station: High Street Kensington.

In The Shard, dine on European dishes with an Asian influence. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/ london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Cheneston’s

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

Try pan-seared venison or Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000.

Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The English Grill Hotel restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high ceilings. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com.

The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Palm Court This grand hotel lounge, which has a colonial conservatory vibe, is ideal for afternoon tea. Please check for opening times. ££. www.phcompany.com.

Principal London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy superb cuisine in this dining room, including tasting menus from chef John Williams. Men must wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 0207300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Rules Plush, 200-year-old restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate. Dine on hearty dishes such as game, rump steak and rib of beef. ££££.

Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Covent Garden.

1 Lombard Street This former bank features a glass dome. £££. MonFri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

The Delaunay In Theatreland, this venue’s interior and menu are inspired by Europe’s grand cafés. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred haute cuisine. Book and dress up. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinatwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Ivy This firm favourite on London’s dining scene is loved by celebrities. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

OXO Tower Smart restaurant on the Thames that’s perfect for special occasions. ££££. Daily L & D. www.harvey nichols.com. OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.

FISH AND SEAFOOD Angler Michelin-starred seafood using seasonal produce. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.anglerrestaurant.com.

South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, EC2M 2AF. T: 020-3215 1260. D10. Station: Moorgate.

Fancy Crab Sample dishes including crab bisque. £££. Daily L & D. www.fancycrab.co.uk. 92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484. D6. Station: Bond Street.

J Sheekey Seafood and oyster restaurant with a Champagne bar. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey.co.uk.

28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Neptune For a special occasion, opt for the seafood platter and oysters in this Grade II-listed dining room.

Dress up, as this is a glamorous space: think pink velvet armchairs, golden lamps and tall, ornate ceilings (p. 62). £££. Daily B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.phcompany.com. Principal London hotel, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282.

C8. Station: Russell Square.

Poppie’s Traditional fish and chip shop decorated with 1950s memorabilia. £. Daily L & D. www.poppies fishandchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Wolseley The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie, popular for its breakfast, plus a late-night menu. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.

CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club

Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu. co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 0203819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hakkasan Fashionable Michelin-starred restaurant with stunning decor, serving modern Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef, and Nanyang chilli lobster. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

A feast for the eyes The private members’ bar and restaurant at the top of the Gherkin – the tower designed

by Norman Foster – has thrown open its doors to the public. Formerly Searcys at the Gherkin, Helix on the 39th floor has 360-degree views. Executive chef Daniel Loftin emphasises provenance and seasonal, sustainable ingredients from the British Isles.

Dishes include starters of English asparagus with Dorset crab, or Cornish mackerel with rock oysters, dandelion and rhubarb, followed by salmon from John Ross Jr in Scotland (which has a Royal Warrant). Meanwhile, Iris, on the 40th floor, serves London-inspired cocktails such as the Brixton Pound.

30 St Mary Axe, EC3A 8EP. T: 020-7585 0505. www.searcysatthegherkin.co.uk.

D11. Station: Liverpool Street

DISH COURTESY OF HELIX AND IRIS, SEARCYS AT THE GHERKIN © EMILY WHITING

Choose from Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including lobster with noodles and Peking duck, in a sleek setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

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DINING

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food from this three-Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Advance booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com.

The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Brasserie Joël This excellent French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. £££.

Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel This bustling French brasserie and bar is set in a grand dining room with a high ceiling.

Its set menu is excellent value. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Clos Maggiore

Sketch Five restaurants and bars under one roof; the Gallery is a stylish gastro brasserie adorned with art by David Shrigley. Great afternoon tea. ££££.

Daily L & D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

GASTROPUBS The Wigmore Enjoy dishes and bar snacks from a menu created

by Michel Roux Jr. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thewigmore.co.uk. 15 Langham Place, Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

INDIAN Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here is full of exotic twists. Sample dishes might include chargrilled aubergine, wild venison or smoked chilli lamb chops. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya. biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Benares The Michelin-starred restaurant serves sophisticated modern Indian cuisine. ££££.

Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com.

12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, which includes Pukka bar. £££.

Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord This iconic Indian restaurant serves North Indian plates including Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Gymkhana Inspired by colonial Indian gymkhana clubs, this Michelin-starred restaurant serves sophisticated dishes such as guinea fowl pepper fry. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.

Step back in time The team behind Kitty Fisher’s in Mayfair has launched Cora Pearl in Covent Garden.

Like the original, the latest restaurant is named after a notorious 19th-century courtesan who lived in the area. The windows of the Grade II-listed house overlook the pretty churchyard of St Paul’s, otherwise known as the Actors’ Church. The room features upholstered wall panels and vintage mirrors – just as Pearl would have been accustomed to. The menu includes British and French dishes created by George Barson; try the leek heart with smoked eel terrine, fish stew, or cod and devilled crab.

30 Henrietta St, WC2E 8NA. T: 020-7324 7722. www.corapearl.co.uk.

E8. Station: Covent Garden

Masala Zone

The Terrace

Enjoy street food, thalis and regional curries in vibrant surroundings. ££. Daily L & D. www.masala zone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches).

T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Enjoy the opulent decor in this 150-year-old hotel restaurant and bar, which serves burgers and Italian dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com.

Amba Hotel Charing Cross, The Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Mint Leaf Contemporary Indian dishes are served in this stylish restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri daily L & D. www.mint leaflondon.com. 12 Angel Court, EC2R 7HB. T: 020-7600 0992. D10. Station: Bank.

Tamarind Try Michelin-starred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine, including lobster masala. £££.

Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com.

20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6.

Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, Michelin-starred, has an opulent interior, with dishes such as six-hour cooked lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veera swamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INTERNATIONAL Bbar

ITALIAN Ask Italian Huge menu and outdoor seating at this friendly spot, with fresh pasta and pizzas. It is located close to Paddington Station. ££. Daily L & D. www.ask italian.co.uk. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches).

T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.

Cicchetti All-day dining venue serving regional specialities, from antipasti and cured meat to seafood. ££.

Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk.

30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch).

T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Verdi Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in the iconic music venue. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdi italian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Enjoy 28-day-aged beef and hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

JAPANESE & KOREAN

The Cavendish

Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table for a theatrical experience. Try the Wagyu beef and hibachi prawn. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana. co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches).

T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

Benihana

CORA PEARL © ALEX MAGUIRE PHOTOGRAPHY

Exquisite dining room shrouded in flowers, with an excellent wine list. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting.

Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music.

73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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WHERE PARTNERSHIP: IN ASSOCIATION WITH AFTERNOONTEA.CO.UK

Time for tea

London is famous for its afternoon tea – here’s our round-up of this month’s best. For more information, visit afternoontea.co.uk A AW A S RD

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If you’re lucky, you’ll be seated by the real fire in this peaceful boutique hotel near Hyde Park, which was once a Victorian townhouse.

Sandwiches are served in beetroot, onion, basil and spinach bread; scones are baked daily in-house and served with Cornish clotted cream and lemon curd, while sweets include a mango dome, dark chocolate and passion fruit delice and a pistachio, lemon and polenta cake with yoghurt. You’ll finish with macarons and tea curated by the Rare Tea Company.

3 Westbourne Terrace, W2 3UL. T: 0207479 6600. www.gofortea.com/roseate

After shopping in Westfield London, relax over an indulgent Glam Rock afternoon tea in Studio Kitchen, K West. Forget egg mayo – here you’ll have beetroot and gin-cured salmon on beetroot bread, blue cheese and grapes on rye bread and lemon and rosemary scones. Try banana cake spiked with white rum, and Prosecco jelly with berries. Finish with a tea-infused Champagne cocktail or its unique tea-infused vodka, served warm with Chambord and cranberry juice.

Richmond Way, W14 0AX. T: 020-8008 6600. www.gofortea.com/kwest

Visiting Windsor? Then stop by Coworth Park for afternoon tea in the countryside. The grand hotel – in which Prince Harry spent his last night as a bachelor – recently won best traditional afternoon tea in the Afternoon Tea Awards 2018. Sit in an armchair by an open fire in the Drawing Room as you sample sandwiches on rye, onion and caraway bread, mini scones served with elderflower jam and sweets, including a fig and walnut tart with thyme.

Blacknest Rd, Ascot, Berkshire, SL5 7SE. T: 01344-876600. www.gofortea.com/coworthpark

THE LANGHAM, LONDON

THE YACHT LONDON

BUDDHA-BAR RESTAURANT

For a classic tea, visit The Langham, London, a five-star hotel off Regent Street that’s served afternoon tea since 1865 – no wonder it was awarded best tea service in the Afternoon Tea Awards 2018. You dine to the sound of a grand piano in the Palm Court, an elegant room with marble floors, velvet armchairs and mirrors. Its Seasonal Tea serves seasonal sandwiches, scones with Cornish clotted cream and citrus sponge with Bermondsey honey on Wedgwood teas in Wedgwood crockery.

1c Portland Place, W1B 1JA. T: 020-7323 2340. www.gofortea.com/langham

Built in 1927, this luxury steam yacht is permanently moored behind Somerset House.

Its floor-to-ceiling windows have grand views of the Thames, while its interior is decorated with mirrors, brushed silver and has an Art Deco cocktail lounge. Begin with sandwiches and savouries such as vegetable quiche, move on to scones with Cornish clotted cream, then follow with sweets which include Victoria sponge, lemon posset and macarons.

Temple Pier, Victoria Embankment, WC2R 2PN. T: 020-7836 1566. www.gofortea.com/theyacht

As you might expect, you can try an Asian afternoon tea at Buddha-Bar Restaurant, south of Hyde Park in Knightsbridge. Start with hoisin duck steamed buns, a Vietnamese vegetable summer roll and a crispy cod and prawn wonton, then sample sweets such as green tea cheesecake, chilli chocolate mousse and passion fruit and mango tart. Tea is served in rough-hewn pottery. Like the cuisine, the decor is inspired by Asia – think Buddha sculptures, gold Buddhas on the wall and birdcage lamps.

145 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7PA. T: 0203667 5222. www.gofortea.com/buddhabar

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DINING Engawa This traditional Japanese restaurant, which is set in a quiet courtyard, has tasting menus plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts. ££££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Sakagura

ENJOY THE THALI AT

REAL INDIAN FOOD

The menu at this izakaya-style ‘Japanese pub’ is designed to be shared, so order drinks alongside small plates. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakagura london.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tokimeite One of the world’s top 100 chefs, Yoshihiro Murata, is behind this authentic Japanese restaurant, so no wonder most of the staff and diners are Japanese.

Enjoy superior cuisine with dishes such as fried lotus root stuffed with prawns, plus an extensive saké, shochu and whisky menu. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.tokimeite.com. 23 Conduit St, W1S 2XS. T: 020-3826 4411. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Elysee This family-run restaurant, opened in 1936, serves Greek dishes including keftedes and dolmades.

Roof garden, shisha lounge and late licence. £££.

Daily D; Mon-Fri & Sun L. www.elyseerestaurant.com.

13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Momo

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .COM

This decadent, candlelit restaurant features authentic Moroccan decor – think lanterns, rugs and low tables. It serves traditional dishes such as duck couscous and lamb tagine. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com.

25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Nopi Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi with an informal communal area as well as a dining room above. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com.

21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Yasmeen Authentic Lebanese cuisine with excellent mezze, charcoal-grilled meat, wraps and vegetarian dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com.

1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921.

Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

Yosma Dine on Turkish cuisine in the heart of London at this bright, informal restaurant, with imaginative mezze, plus fish and meat dishes cooked on a Josper grill. £££. Daily L & D. www.yosma.london.

50 Baker St, W1U 7BT. T: 020-3019 6282. D6.

Station: Baker Street.

THE ENGLISH GRILL English Tradition, Dining and Design at its Finest

The English Gri

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London If there’s just two of you, then book a place aboard this boat. As you embark on a river cruise you’ll be able to see many of London’s iconic sights while enjoying modern British cuisine. £££.

Daily L & D cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com.

Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800.

E8. Station: Embankment.

The Rubens at The Palace

39 Buckingham Palace Road, London, SW1W 0PS Telephone: +44 (0)20 7834 6600 | rubenshotel.com

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DINING The London Showboat

Rosa’s Thai Café

Moro

Dining cruises including a two-course lunch, afternoon tea or dinner with live jazz. £££££££. Booking needed. www.citycruises.com.

Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400.

F8. Station: Westminster.

At this venue you can enjoy dishes from papaya salad to ‘drunken’ noodles. ££. Daily L & D. www.rosasthaicafe.com. 23a Ganton St, W1F 9BW (and branches). T: 020-7287 9617.

D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

RS Hispaniola

Thai Pot

North Africa meets Spain in this highly regarded Moorish restaurant, serving seasonal dishes such as wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro. co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

Delightful moored restaurant boat serving British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk.

Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

This popular spot offers a huge range of good value, authentic Thai dishes, including stir-fried beef and massaman curry, a mild beef dish.

The restaurant has been running for more than 20 years. Set meals start from £13.50. The drinks menu includes classic cocktails. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Enjoy Asian cuisine in Debenhams department store, and see the chefs at work in an open-plan kitchen.

There’s also a Champagne bar. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

House of Ho Four-storey townhouse serving exceptional Vietnamese cuisine. Try the spiced lamb chops or seafood pho. ££. Daily L & D. www.houseof ho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130.

D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Mango Tree This fine dining restaurant offers authentic Thai dishes, such as tom ka. £££. Daily L & D. www.mango tree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

VEGETARIAN The Gate

SPANISH

Latest branch of the well-known veggie restaurant, with Indian and Middle Eastern influences, and dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

El Pirata

Mildreds

Choose from a large range of authentic hot and cold tapas in this Mayfair bar and restaurant.

Keep an eye out for the classic Spanish art that hangs on the walls. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

This informal Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes, such as wild mushroom and ale pie or Vietnamese mock duck. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Ibérica

Tibits

Traditional dishes and tapas are given a modern twist, plus classics including jamón Ibérico, artisan cheeses and bocadillos. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches). T: 0203327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. Choose from fresh salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits. co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4112. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

W H E R E

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P R O M O T I O N

The Cafe in the Courtyard St Martin-in-the-Fields Take a break from a busy day of sightseeing and enjoy some London sunshine at the Café in the Courtyard. This seasonal outdoor café is located in the terrace just behind the church of St Martin-in-theFields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily from 8am (11am on Sundays), the Café in the Courtyard serves a delightful range of hot and cold drinks, pastries, baguettes, paninis, salads and soup throughout the day and in the evening there are scrumptious platters to share and a full wine list. The Café in the Courtyard is open until 9pm until the end of September and 5pm in October before it closes for the season.

El Pirata For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ).

Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Café in the Courtyard, St Martin-in-the-Fields, WC2N 4JJ Station: Charing Cross Email: café@smitf.org www.smitf.org

EL PIRATA IMAGE COURTESY OF EL PIRATA; CAFE IN THE COURTYARD IMAGE COURTESY OF CAFE IN THE COURTYARD

BEST OF LONDON DINING

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Shake it up

Clockwise from top: The Cauldron; Belowzero Ice Bar; The Brig; a Rum Blazer at Belowzero Ice Bar

With more than 4,000 bars in London, how can you possibly decide which to visit? If you love a fancy drink, then London Cocktail Week (1-7 Oct), now in its ninth year, is a good place to start (www.drinkup.london).

Cocktail Village at Old Spitalfields Market brings more than 30 of the city’s bars under one roof. Each stall is individually decorated and may come in the form of a shed, a camper van, black cab – or even a Ferris wheel. The drinks are as inventive as the decor. Last year, asparagus Negronis and vodka infused with Ibérico ham were on the menu, alongside alcoholic slushies and dry ice cocktails.

DJs create a party vibe while you explore the venue, at which you can try new brands, bespoke cocktails and drinks made with ingredients you’ve never heard of. Just don’t forget to line your stomach at a food stall first.

While Cocktail Village is the main event, once you’ve bought a digital pass you can also sample £6 cocktails at 300 bars across London. Participating bars host tours, rum and whisky tastings, cocktail-making classes and talks on how to pair cocktails with food.

Missed the event? Then you needn’t miss out. If you’re after cocktails in a unique environment, London has you covered.

With space for just four guests, The Brig at Merchant House near St Paul’s Cathedral is the capital’s smallest bar. Book it by the hour (£50pp, including drinks) and you’ll be given a special code to gain entry. Once inside, you can choose the music and any cocktail; there’s no menu, so the drinks depend upon your imagination (www.merchanthouse.bar).

The Cauldron may be a little far out in Stoke Newington, but it has all the right ingredients for a magical night. After changing into a black, hooded robe, you’ll be given a magic wand before you take part in a molecular mixology class, during which you’ll create cocktails that bubble, smoke and change colour (www.thecauldron.io).

Don a furry cape and gloves at Belowzero Ice Bar in Mayfair, a -5°C cavern decorated with ice sculptures. This year’s theme is London Land, so it features a punk-rock Trafalgar Square lion, Banksy-style street art and a taxi you can sit inside. Cocktails are served in glasses made from ice. Feeling chilly? Then opt for the Rum Blazer – a warm cocktail made with rum, raspberry liqueur and berries (www.belowzeroicebar.com).

THE CAULDRON © XAVIER BOLDU; PUNK LION AND COCKTAIL COURTESY OF BELOWZERO ICE BAR; INTERIOR SHOT COURTESY OF THE BRIG; RUM BLAZER © WHITE FOX STUDIOS LTD

Discover drinks with a difference during London Cocktail Week and at some of the capital’s unique bars, says Sarah Riches

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number.

Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81)

TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London.

22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670.

D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho: there is no music. www.french housesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 0207437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Waxy O’Connor’s

Booking Office Bar

Long-standing Irish bar, with four bars over six levels. It has regular live music, and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar, surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. There’s also a good menu of bar snacks. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Waxy’s Little Sister A smaller, slightly quieter sister venue to the huge Waxy O’Connor’s, which has traditional Irish beers and whiskies, and also great bar food. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666, and has vaults which are even older than that. Enjoy a pint of English ale and dine on a range of simple pub food.

145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170.

D9. Station: Blackfriars.

BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston

Burlock Rum is definitely the spirit of choice here, in a relaxed bar which specialises in many types of cocktails using the Caribbean spirit with unusual ingredients. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.

BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’, pay £30, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails for you. Booking is recommended. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424.

Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

Camino

Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

This is a dedicated cava venue. Enjoy tapas sharing platters. www.camino.uk.com. The Regent Quarter, 3 Varnishers Yard, N1 9FD (and branches).

T: 020-7125 0930. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

The Back Room

Cartizze Bar

Located next to Hard Rock Cafe, its bar has vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and burgers, plus a great vibe. www.hard rock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 0207514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

Cocktail destination in Mayfair majoring in timeless luxury, known for its Bellinis, with elegant Art Deco surroundings and bar food including oysters. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. The beers and food are good. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.

SHOOTING RANGE AND WHISKY BAR COURTESY OF MAC & WILD

The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, the pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.

The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair pub-restaurant offers a variety of ales in its unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 020-7493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Dick Turpin and Charles Dickens, at this pub – one of the oldest in London. Its Sunday roast and pies are popular, so booking is advisable. www.the spaniardshampstead.co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Top gun For a wee taste of Scotland, head to London’s first virtual shooting range and whisky bar in Mac & Wild, a Scottish restaurant. The bar has two shooting lanes, which you book by the hour. Get into the spirit by dressing up in the tweed and hats provided before shooting on-screen clays, pheasants, deer and boars. Sip whisky slushies or try some of the 200 varieties of whisky paired with venison Scotch eggs, haggis, mac and cheese and venison burgers. You can also opt for a 90-minute Drams in the Dark class, which take place on Friday and Saturday – they begin in candlelight, before the lights go out to heighten your senses as you sample drams paired with canapés.

9a Devonshire Square, EC2M 4YN. T: 020-7367 0510. www.macandwild.com.

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NIGHTLIFE City Garden Bar

L’escale Wine Bar

This impressive bar, on the open-air roof terrace of the ‘Walkie-Talkie’ building, takes some beating. It has amazing city views – especially at sunset – a three-storey tiered garden and free entrance. www.skygarden.london. Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020.

E11. Station: Monument.

Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, inspired by centuries of merchant ships sailing up the Thames. Why not try a sharing board of cured meats and cheeses? www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796.

Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

Drakes Tabanco A Spanish-style tapas bar that serves rare sherries, aged in ancient oak barrels. There are also craft beers, natural wines and Andalucianinspired tapas dishes. www.drakestabanco.com.

3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388.

D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Dukes Bar Outstanding bar located in the hotel of the same name, renowned for its superior Martinis.

Oozing old-world charm, with leather armchairs in a cosy interior, the Martinis are made at your table and served from a century-old wooden trolley. www.dukeshotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840.

E7. Station: Green Park.

Experimental Cocktail Club In an old Chinatown townhouse, this stylish bar is tucked away, but worth the search for its inventive cocktails. Email booking is highly recommended. www.experimentalcocktailclublondon.com.

13a Gerrard St, W1D 5PS. T: 020-7434 3559.

E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Fitz’s This bar is about as classic as it gets – think bookshelves, velvet shell-shaped sofas, wooden panelling decked with paintings and a cheeky mirror ball. Great for a date. www.phcompany.com.

Principal London hotel, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Gong Located on level 52 of Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and is the ideal place for sunset cocktails. The food menu includes caviar and sashimi platters. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, a DJ plays by the pool area from 8.30pm. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Good Godfreys Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served with a hint of history at this suave establishment.

Try signature cocktails including the Astor Hip Flask, named after the New York Waldorf Astoria’s owner. www.waldorfhilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit stone-arched basement. Try to go early to grab a table as it can get very busy. www.gordons winebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

Jack Solomons Club This atmospheric basement speakeasy bar in Soho is accessed by a hidden entrance, and boasts oldschool glamour. After cocktails, make the most of the large dance floor. Email to be put on the guest list. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7LU. www.jack solomons.com. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Looking Glass Cocktail Club

Scarfes Bar This elegant bar is named after satirical British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of the iconic British figures that are painted on the walls. Enjoy cocktails inspired by famous characters Scarfe has drawn, and Indian-style bar snacks. www.scarfesbar.com.

Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020Five of London’s Underground stations 3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

are named after pubs, Enter a giant glass into a dimly-lit St Pancras including Angel and room decorated with Louis XVIChampagne Bar Swiss Cottage inspired furniture. This speakeasy has Europe’s longest Champagne bar regular DJs, live music and performances. where Eurostar arrives. There is a button 49 Hackney Rd, E2 7NX. T: 020-7613 3936. you can press for refills. www.searcyschampagne www.lookingglasslondon.co.uk. Off map. bars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Station: Hoxton.

Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 Mews Cocktail Bar 9900. C8. Station: St Pancras King’s Cross.

Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier Six Storeys set the tone for this place, which is home to As the name suggests, this Soho Square exquisite wines, fresh fruit cocktails and light townhouse is split over six levels. Each floor is dishes in a classy neighbourhood. www.mews decorated in a bohemian style, with plush chairs, of mayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. vintage lampshades and patterned wallpaper.

T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Cocktails are its speciality – try the quince and The Nightjar blue cheese-infused gin. www.sixstoreys.com.

Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. stylish basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. most nights. The elaborate cocktails are amazing.

Social 24 www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. The bar next to Jason Atherton’s T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street. restaurant has an Art Deco interior, a Prohibitioninspired cocktail list and amazing views. www.city Old Bengal Bar sociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, This place is converted from a former warehouse EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: located in a quiet back street, with original brick Liverpool Street. walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. Trader Vic’s T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

This popular tiki-style basement bar is more than 50 years old. Relax and enjoy a Mai Tai cocktail, Opium Cocktail Bar surrounded by Polynesian wooden masks. Live Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of music is staged on Friday and Saturday nights. dimly-lit rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Sip a lychee Martini and choose food from the Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. dim sum menu. www.opiumchinatown.com.

E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Booking is recommended. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: The Vault Leicester Square.

The specialist whisky bar Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, while The Vault, behind the bookcases, Oriole is a speakeasy with cosy arches. 3 Greek St, Featured on the World’s 50 Best Bars list last W1D 4NX. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. D7. Station: year, this spacious cocktail bar is below Smithfield Tottenham Court Road.

Market. It stages live jazz and blues music most nights, all in beautiful, explorer-decor surroundings.

The Zetter Townhouse www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Tony Conigliaro is known for his groundbreaking Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. cocktails in this lounge, with eccentric decor Station: Farringdon. incorporating leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. www.thezettertownhouse.com.

Primo Bar 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545.

Enjoy cocktails in this laid-back bar, which stages C9. Station: Farringdon. free live music every night. Its location makes a great meeting spot. The venue focuses on acoustic sounds, bringing together artists and bands around the world, and it puts up-and-coming Aspers Casino talent in the spotlight. The menu includes beef Endless gaming offerings and views of the Olympic burgers, pastas and salads. www.primobar.co.uk.

Stadium from the Sky Bar at this 24-hour venue.

Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020www.aspersstratford.co.uk. Westfield Stratford 7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

City, Montifichet Rd, Olympic Park, E20 1EJ. Reverend JW Simpson T: 020-8536 5630 Off map. Station: Stratford.

This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ The Casino at the Empire – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good This spectacular venue houses a restaurant and Reverend. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are several bars, plus a dedicated poker room and its hallmark. You can also sign up for a cocktail the latest table and electronic games. www.the masterclass. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge casinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Goodge Street.

CASINOS

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Hippodrome Casino Massive West End venue with gaming on three floors, including roulette and baccarat. www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888.

E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy a poker lounge and sports bar, plus informal dining. www.thesportsmancasino.com. 16 Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6.

Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club This relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant serves great food to blues and R ’n’ B music, played by British-based independent artists on stage. There is also an intimate basement club and restaurant. Liane Carroll, Polly Gibbons and Jamie Cullum have performed here. www.606club. co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953.

Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus there’s a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye. It also serves Americanstyle food such as Buffalo wings, gumbo and cornbread. www.theblueskitchen.com.

111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches).

T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with lots of live entertainment, this Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out.

Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch).

T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Comedy Store One of the UK’s best stand-up and improvised comedy spots. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton and Neil Mullarkey, and there are also late-night stand-up slots. www.thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ronnie Scott’s The world-famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Sarah Vaughan, Count Basie, Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The venue also includes a bar and restaurant. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families.

There are acts every night, plus Sat and Sun lunchtimes. Look out for more intimate gigs upstairs every Wed. www.ronniescotts.co.uk.

47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Open since 1980, this is known for being one of the most famous gentleman’s clubs in the world.

Up to 70 beautiful international Angels dance nightly on four stages. You can also dine in the five-star steak restaurant. The club was created by the late Peter Stringfellow. Make sure you visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534.

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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Pedicure bar at London Grace; manicure bar at London Grace; London Grace Inset: Hershesons

A helping hand The nail industry is a big business. There are salons aimed at everyone, from nail art specialists such as Shoreditch Nails to the men’s pop-up in Peckham, Guys That Nail It, which opened in the summer.

These salons prove that getting your nails done professionally is more than just a treat – it’s an experience. These venues nail multi-tasking, so you can raise a glass with one hand and get your nails done on the other.

Combine a trip to a bar with getting your nails done at London Grace. The salon has venues across London, including Leicester Square, Belgravia and Marble Arch. Founder Kirsten Hazell says: ‘I’ve always loved nails, but it was during my time living in New York City on a student budget that I really fell in love with the mani-pedi experience. I was amazed to find that getting my nails done was an affordable treat that I could enjoy with friends, even at 9pm.’ Some of the venues are open until 10pm on weeknights.

London Grace does not just offer a menu with manicures and pedicures, but also drinks: take your pick from hot chocolate, wine or

Champagne. Each day, from 5pm to 6pm, you can also enjoy two cocktails for the price of one.

The interiors feel like a cross between a café and a front room: with cosy cushions and sofas, it aims to feel like a home away from home. The business aims to be environmentally friendly, too, which is why it has dry pedicures – this means you are not given a foot bath. This saves litres of water per week, and it is more hygienic.

If you are after privacy, you can hire a room.

These are usually used for baby showers, hen dos and birthdays (www.londongrace.co.uk).

Barber & Parlour in Shoreditch, meanwhile, has food, drink and even a cinema. Its Cheeky Parlour specialises in nail treatments, which include nail art and French manicures.

If you have tired feet, choose the Toe Shine Pedicure, during which your nails are filed and painted, your feet are moisturised and any callouses you have will be buffed. Its drinks menu includes Bloody Marys, beers and bubbly, while its extensive food menu includes everything from pancakes for

breakfast to soup for dinner (www.barberandparlour.com).

Hershesons – the luxury hair salon – has opened a new flagship near Oxford Street.

The impressive space, which is more than 5,000 square metres, is home to Dryby Nails.

Treatments include the Express Manicure for those in a rush, IBX Nail Repair which restores weak nails, and the Luxury Spa Pedicure, which is ideal if you need a pick-me-up: indulge in a pedicure as well as a foot and leg massage. If you are feeling hungry, Estelle’s café offers breakfast and lunch, from granola parfait to smoked salmon tartines, alongside coffee, tea and juice (www.hershesons.com). These salons are, indeed, nailing it.

LONDON GRACE COURTESY OF LONDON GRACE; HERSHESONS COURTESY OF HERSHESONS

Would you like a glass of Champagne while you get your nails done?

Kohinoor Sahota discovers the nail bars that are raising the bar

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours.

References at the end of listings (A1 etc) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81

SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting for 15 or 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon.

There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map.

Station: Imperial Wharf.

Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage directly in your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982.

Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa that has recently been refurbished. It uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. www.chuanspa.com. 2 Cavendish Place, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. There is a private suite, so you can share the experience with your guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 0207499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk.

489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685.

D8. Station: Bond Street.

The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to a sports massage.

If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a gold agedefying facial and a carat diamond face and body ritual. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square

Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast Johansens, the menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

07879 697478

Late appointments available

Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporates spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com.

31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

Ushvani

This spa has an Asian touch: the gorgeous decor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza Hotel, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

One Aldwych

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Spa Illuminata

Geo F Trumper

A luxury spa inspired by traditional Chinese massage methods. The spa has recently undergone a major refurbishment. Facilities include a 17m-long pool and a gym offering personal trainer sessions. www.mandarinoriental. com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

by qualified female masseuse.

Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Mandara Spa

Mandarin Oriental

AVENA MASSAGE

INDIAN MASSAGE SERVICE Body massage Indian head massage OUTCALLS TO HOTELS AND APARTMENTS

Call Yasmeena 0798 515 8877

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from indian massage ad.indd 1 a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 mins (p. 76). www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work.

The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

01/08/2018 16:09

INSPIRING LONDON’S VISITORS

Windle & Moodie This award-winning hair salon specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute speed styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION AT YOUR SERVICE Concierges in the city use Where London for information.

Here they share their top tips for your travels

Graham Luff Didzis Neimanis Deputy Head Concierge Head Concierge at Amba at The Capital Hotel Charing Cross Tell us popular requests.

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child tickets; securing seats to sold-out shows is rewarding.

Tell us popular requests.

Tickets to NFL London Games (14, 21 & 28 Oct) – it’s American football at its best.

Any strange requests?

Tracking down an Australian guest’s distant relations – 11 of them – in Gravesend, Kent.

Any strange requests?

I was delighted to oblige one of our young guests and look after her doll Tracy. I made sure she was fed, played with and napped at 2pm.

Why is your hotel special?

Our refurbished bar has a fashionable menu, while Outlaw’s at The Capital is the renowned, Michelin-starred seafood restaurant.

Any romantic ideas?

Book a free ticket to Sky Garden, then have lunch in its Sky Pod Bar. Share a hidden gem.

Chelsea Physic Garden is a tranquil space by the river.

Where should visitors go outside of London?

Oxfordshire’s Blenheim Palace and the Cotswolds are both nearby and beautiful.

Why is your hotel special?

It was built 150 years ago in the Grand Railway Hotels era, when all the best hotels were beside train stations. It has a magnificent staircase and ballroom, as well as a glorious afternoon tea terrace.

What if you only have a day?

Go on a boat trip to the Tower of London, then have lunch at Borough Market. Enjoy dinner on a Bustronome bus, which takes you to the sites.

Share a hidden gem.

Gordon’s Wine Bar, which was established in 1890.

Left to right: Harry Potter and the Cursed Child; Gordon’s Wine Bar; Blenheim Palace; Chelsea Physic Garden

An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.

It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London.

You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.

Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.

An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses.

For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

David Morton Senior Concierge at The Wellesley

GETTING AROUND

Tell us popular requests.

Tickets to Warner Bros. Studio Tours – The Making of Harry Potter, and dinner tables at Zuma, Novikov or Park Chinois.

London Underground (The Tube)

Any strange requests?

I was asked to buy a diamondencrusted teddy bear that cost no less than £50,000.

I managed to find one in Kent.

Why is your hotel special?

We have one of the largest cigar humidors in Europe and serve some of the world’s finest whiskies.

Any romantic ideas?

Enjoy dinner for two at Clos Maggiore in Covent Garden.

Any family-friendly ideas?

Tour Stamford Bridge, home of Chelsea Football Club.

Share a quintessential English experience.

Have afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason, or watch cricket at Kia Oval.

For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345-222 1234.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands.

Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England.

London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0345-748 4950.

St Pancras International.

Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).

HARRY POTTER © CHARLIE GRAY; GORDON’S WINE BAR COURTESY OF GORDON’S WINE BAR; BLENHEIM PALACE COURTESY OF BLENHEIM PALACE; CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN COURTESY OF CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN; CONCIERGE IMAGES COURTESY OF THEIR HOTELS

Oyster cards & Travelcards

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ESSENTIALS

Willesden Green

Stonebridge Park Harlesden

Brondesbury Park

Willesden Junction

Kilburn Park Maida Vale Warwick Avenue Royal Oak Westbourne Park

Paddington

Ladbroke Grove Latimer Road

North Acton

Shepherd’s Bush

White City

Shepherd’s Bush Market

Stamford Brook

Ravenscourt Park

West Kensington

High Street Kensington

Green Park

Gloucester Road

Earl’s Court

Goodge Street

Victoria

Hoxton

Charing Cross

Liverpool Street

Bank

Aldgate East

Stepney Green

Whitechapel

Aldgate

Cannon Street Monument

Tower Gateway Rotherhithe

Bermondsey

Canada Water

West Brompton

Parsons Green

Surrey Quays

River Thames

Step-free access from street to platform

Bakerloo

Vauxhall

East Putney

Canning Town

District

Hammersmith & City

Custom House for ExCeL

Blackwall East India

Emirates Royal Docks

Heron Quays

North Greenwich

Elephant & Castle

Jubilee

Metropolitan

Prince Regent Royal Albert

West Silvertown Emirates Greenwich Peninsula

Pontoon Dock

New Cross Gate

Northern

Victoria

Cyprus Gallions Reach Beckton

King George V 17/E/3249/P

Greenwich New Cross

Brockley

Piccadilly

Beckton Park

London City Airport

Mudchute

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich Queens Road Peckham

Circle

Royal Victoria

Island Gardens

Borough

Southfields

Central

Star Lane

Langdon Park

Canary Wharf

Lambeth North

Putney Bridge Step-free access from street to train

East Ham Upton Park

Crossharbour

Southwark

Imperial Wharf

Upney Barking

West Ham

Bow BromleyRoad by-Bow Devons Road

South Quay Waterloo Pimlico

Fulham Broadway

Elm Park Dagenham East Dagenham Heathway

Stratford

West India Quay

Wapping

River Thames

London Bridge

Woodgrange Park

Forest Gate Maryland

Abbey Road

Westferry Poplar

Limehouse

Tower Hill

Fenchurch Street

Embankment

Pudding Mill Lane

All Saints Shadwell

Blackfriars Temple

Westminster

Bow Church

St. Paul’s

Hornchurch

Plaistow

Moorgate Chancery Lane

Ilford Manor Park

Becontree

Bethnal Green Bethnal Mile Green End

Shoreditch High Street

Barbican

Upminster Bridge

Seven Kings

Wanstead Park

Stratford High Street

Cambridge Heath

Old Street

Covent Garden

St. James’s Park

Homerton London Fields

Haggerston

Farringdon

Leicester Mansion Square House

Piccadilly Circus

Sloane Square

South Kensington

Holborn

Tottenham Court Road

Knightsbridge

Barons Court

Hammersmith

Regent’s Park

Marble Arch

Dalston Junction

Angel Euston Square Russell Square

Queensway

Caledonian Road & Barnsbury

King’s Cross St. Pancras

Bayswater Oxford Circus

Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick

Highbury & Islington

Euston

Warren Street

Edgware Road

Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Goldhawk Road

Mornington Crescent

Great Baker Portland Street Street

Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate

Holland Park

Wood Lane

Camden Road

Chalk Farm Camden Town

Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood

Edgware Road Marylebone

Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road

Kentish Town West Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead

East Acton

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

Waterloo & City

DLR

Services or access at these stations are subject to variation.

Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details.

Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays

Emirates Air Line cable car

Overground

TfL Rail

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Transport for London

Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P

Version D 7.2017

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendallcars.com.

Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 0207591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). UK: T: 0343-222 2222. International: T: +44 343 222 2222. www.cclondon.com.

River services

TUBE ROUNDEL © ISTOCK

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes.

Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am).

Adult £19; child (5-15) £9.50; family (two adults, up to three children) just £38. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.

Correct at time of going to print

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire the first 30 minutes. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike.

Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands.

SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. Map D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland.

Mail Boxes is a trained certified packer.

T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

24-hour Tube lines The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon.

• Jubilee line: Across the entire line.

• Victoria line: Across the entire line.

• Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware.

• Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5.

• Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 79

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11/09/2018 10:51

WHERE NOW | DITA VON TEESE

My Perfect Day

DITA VON TEESE

Where are your favourite buildings?

Do you have a favourite café?

When I was a little girl, I was obsessed with English history – I read all about King Henry VIII. I’m intrigued by the Tower of London; it holds a fascination for me and makes such an impact.

The café at The Wolseley on Piccadilly is one of my favourite places.

Which galleries interest you?

I’ve not had much time to visit museums or galleries in London. If I did I’d like to go to The Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace. A fantasy of mine is to wander around it like a ghost.

Do you have any favourite shops?

I’m not a big consumer or an impulse shopper – you won’t see me with lots of bags. I think I’m a thoughtful shopper; I prefer to pick up one special thing. I always go to Vivienne Westwood.

Where do you enjoy going for a drink?

I like going to The Fumoir in Claridge’s, and the Chiltern Firehouse in Marylebone.

Where’s your favourite restaurant?

I tend to go back to the same places. I like the The Ivy in Covent Garden; I love the look of the place. It’s so classic, so old-fashioned, with its Tudor-style windows. I also like J Sheekey for seafood – everyone loves that.

What would be your perfect evening’s entertainment?

I look for ballet in a beautiful theatre.

Which green spaces do you like to visit?

I haven’t been to any London parks, but I do fantasise about horse riding through Hyde Park.

Is there a place that holds a special memory for you?

I have lots of great memories of London. I spend a lot of time in hotels when I’m in the city – they’re beautiful, so I’m not sorry about that!

Claridge’s in Mayfair is such a time capsule.

I’ve stayed there many times over the years.

How do you like travelling around?

I use black cabs – they feel safe, elegant and very British.

Any top hotels?

My favourite hotel room is The Oliver Messel Suite in The Dorchester – it’s the most beautiful room on the planet.

It’s decorated in the Hollywood Regency style.

What makes London stand out from the rest of the world?

As a child, I used to fantasise about visiting London and Paris. London feels historic and it’s also extremely charming. I have some really great friends here, too. I got my first big break in London: I performed my Martini glass act at a party in 2003 and everything fell into place for me after that.

Tell us about your upcoming show The Art of the Teese.

My London show features an extravagant costume that doesn’t feature in my European tour. It’s covered in Swarovski crystals, which are so blindingly sparkly that they light up the whole theatre, turning it into a big disco ball.

I also dress as a cowgirl in pink rhinestone while riding a bull, with shirtless cowboys dancing behind me. I do my Martini glass act differently in every show – and this is the first time I’ve toured with it. My goal is that when the curtains part, jaws drop.

The Art of the Teese. 25-27 Oct. London Palladium, 8 Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0333-700 8800. www.londontheatre.co.uk Clockwise from top left: Seafood at J Sheekey; Dita Von Teese; horse riding in Hyde Park; The Ivy; Tower of London Left: black taxi

FOOD COURTESY OF J SHEEKEY; DITA VON TEESE © FRANK GUTHRIE; THE IVY COURTESY OF THE IVY; TOWER OF LONDON & BLACK TAXI © ISTOCK; HORSE RIDING IMAGE COURTESY OF ROSS NYE STABLES

BURLESQUE STAR Born Heather Sweet on a farm in Michigan, USA, these days Dita is a burlesque star, model and ballet dancer. She’s touring Europe with her show The Art of the Teese, which is filled with glamorous costumes and seductive dances

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I T ’ S H OW YO U WEAR IT

THE NE W JOHN LE WI S & PARTNERS COLLECTION

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Outlet shopping comes to The O2 Doors open 10am on 20 October

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