Where Magazine London Mar 2018

GUIDE TO LONDON ®

MARCH 2018

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

CUBA’ S CURTAIN CALL

PLUS

JOE PASQUALE’S LONDON GUIDE CELEBRATE ST PATRICK’S DAY TINA TURNER THE MUSICAL

Cuba Gooding Jr on making his West End debut in Chicago

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Jeremy Irons Carey Mulligan Zoë Wanamaker

CURRY CAPITAL Get ready to try the tastiest Indian food

LEADING LADIES Meet the women who are running the city

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

March

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’.

GUIDE TO LONDON ®

MARCH 2018

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

CUBA’ S CURTAIN CALL

CELEBRATE ST PATRICK’S DAY TINA TURNER THE MUSICAL

+

Jeremy Irons Carey Mulligan Zoë Wanamaker

ON THE COVER

CURRY CAPITAL Get ready to try the tastiest Indian food

LEADING LADIES Meet the women who are running the city

C U LT U R E

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

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14

56

PLUS

JOE PASQUALE’S LONDON GUIDE

Cuba Gooding Jr on making his West End debut in Chicago

SHOPPING

DINING

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Cuba Gooding Jr © Getty/Maarten de Boer

The Guide

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SELECTION OF INDIAN DISHES COURTESY OF BOMBAY BUSTLE; AMY LAMÉ COURTESY OF WOW – WOMEN OF THE WORLD FESTIVAL; GIRL BEFORE A MIRROR BY PABLO PICASSO 1932 © SUCCESSION PICASSO/DACS LONDON 2017; THE PASSION OF JESUS COURTESY OF THE WINTERSHALL ESTATE; TINA TURNER COURTESY OF TINA: THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL

20 SIGHTSEEING Discover great events, from an Engineering Tour at Tower Bridge to Easter fun in the capital and Chiswick House’s Camellia Show.

36 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The modern master: works by the father of Cubism, Pablo Picasso, are celebrated at Tate Modern.

44 ENTERTAINMENT Tina: The Tina Turner Musical bursts into life with the story of the farm girl who became a music megastar.

52 SHOPPING Art meets boxing in a unique collaboration at Selfridges, while the Ideal Home Show takes place in Olympia.

44

36

20

Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW

14 WOMEN IN CHARGE

We look at this month’s biggest festivals and events, including a musical celebration of James Bond, the BFI Flare Festival, the Boat Race and Sutra at Sadler’s Wells.

In anticipation of International Women’s Day, we meet some of the capital’s leading ladies.

10 CUBA GOODING JR An exclusive interview with the Oscar-winning star of stage and screen as he prepares for the challenge of a West End role as Billy Flynn in the musical Chicago.

PLAN

2017-2018

PLAN DE

LONDRES ÉDITION E FRANÇAIS

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18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Travel essentials, from carry-on bags to make-up bags.

74 MY PERFECT DAY As the comedian and presenter Joe Pasquale stars in Some Mothers Do ‘Ave ‘Em, he shares his favourite London hotspots, from The Tower of London to the Natural History Museum.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

56 DINING Enjoy a taste of India at some of London’s best new restaurants, while two Michelinstarred The Square gets a new look.

64 NIGHTLIFE Celebrate St Patrick’s Day with a pint of Guinness at one of the many Irish pubs found across the capital.

68 WELLBEING Relax in a multipurpose spa where you can enjoy drinks, music and dancing as well as a spot of pampering.

70 ESSENTIALS London concierges share their travel tips, hidden gems and strangest requests.

72 MAPS A useful map of central London.

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WELCOME

Editor’s Letter While we love promoting all things British, when we heard that Cuba Gooding Jr was making his West End debut in Chicago, we were eager to talk to him. The Oscar-winning actor, famous for his portrayal of Rod ‘show me the money’ Tidwell in Jerry Maguire as well as OJ Simpson, was one of the most charismatic people I’ve ever interviewed.

When we spoke at 7am London time – 11pm Los Angeles time – I got to do something I’ve never done: conduct an interview in my pyjamas! I also found that, despite the time difference, Cuba was full of energy (p. 10).

As International Women’s Day takes place (8 Mar), and discussions about equality for women are more prevalent than ever, it felt only natural to run a feature on London’s

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

TOWER BRIDGE © ISTOCK

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

leading ladies. We spoke to women from the worlds of food, art and architecture about how the capital is one of the best places in the world to be a woman (p. 14).

If you want to taste the best Indian food outside of India, then you’re in the right place.

Recently, many amazing restaurants have opened, from Indian Accent to Bombay Bustle. And, as someone who grew up eating the cuisine every day, I can attest that these places offer authentic flavours (p. 56).

I’m so excited to see that Tate Modern is putting on its first Picasso show. As a fan of the modern master (I am trying my best to tick off every Picasso museum in the world), I cannot wait to see his canvases up close (p. 36). Have a fantastic trip!

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®

If you want to celebrate the best of British, you’ve picked a good time to visit.

Nobody does it better than James Bond, while this March also sees the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race row into town and an iconic rabbit in Kew Gardens

BFI FLARE FESTIVAL

OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE BOAT RACE

FROM WEDNESDAY 21 MARCH

SATURDAY 24 MARCH

The British Film Institute’s annual festival, BFI Flare, which celebrates film about and created by the LGBT+ community, is back with premieres, shorts, talks and features.

At Europe’s biggest LGBT+ film festival, the emphasis is very much on film, but there will also be weekend club nights and a series of thoughtprovoking debates.

Flare is sure to inspire and entertain. www.bfi.org.uk

It’s one of London’s oldest and most famous sporting traditions: the annual Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race (24 Mar). The race, which has been held annually since 1856 (except during the World Wars) begins at Putney Bridge and ends at Mortlake. Find a riverside spot to watch the eight-strong crews battle it out, starting with the women’s race (4.31pm) followed by the men’s (5.31pm).

Cambridge’s male team has won 8 times since 1829, ahead of Oxford’s 80 triumphs.

The race has had memorable moments over the years, including capsizing and, more recently, a protester who leapt into the water. What drama will possibly happen this year? www.theboatrace.org

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PETER RABBIT AT KEW GARDENS FROM FRIDAY 30 MARCH

THE BEST OF JAMES BOND FRIDAY 23 MARCH

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DANIEL CRAIG AS BOND IN SPECTRE © SPECTRE 2015 METROGOLDWYNMAYER STUDIOS INC, DANJAO, LLC AND COLUMBIA PICTURES; THE LONDON CONCERT ORCHESTRA COURTESY OF THE SOUTHBANK CENTRE; PETER RABBIT BEATRIX POTTER™ © FREDERICK WARNE & CO; EGG © ISTOCK; UNIVERSITY BOAT CREW © GETTY IMAGES; BFI FLARE COURTESY OF BFI

In addition to 007’s suave suits, his villainous enemies and of course the high-tech gadgets, each film set the scene with its iconic theme tune. Hear the highlights at The Best of James Bond at the Southbank Centre, a musical tribute to the fictional Secret Service agent, featuring all your favourites from more than 50 years. Enjoy Goldfinger, Diamonds are Forever, Live and Let Die and Skyfall, performed by the London Concert Orchestra. www.southbankcentre.co.uk

Get into the Easter spirit at Kew Gardens with its first Peter Rabbit Easter-themed festival. Inspired by Beatrix Potter’s iconic tales, Peter and his furry friends take visitors on a botanical bunny adventure with games, crafts and storytelling, all set against a beautiful backdrop of springtime crocuses, daffodils and magnolias. Children of all ages will love the interactive trails, where they can discover the science behind the fruit and vegetables that Peter loves to eat, and learn about Potter’s links with Kew. www.kew.org

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

MARCH

SUTRA AT SADLER’S WELLS

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

What do you get when a choreographer, sculptor and 19 Buddhist monks walk into a room? Rather than being the start of a joke, this is the result of a dazzling collaboration between choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, sculptor Antony Gormley and monks from the Shaolin monastery in China. Following a global tour, Sutra returns to Sadler’s Wells for its 200th performance. Expect human springs, fast-paced flips and kung fu kicks among a set of 21 wooden boxes designed by Gormley, all performed to a dramatic score by Szymon Brzóska. www.sadlerswells.com

VIVA! VEGAN FESTIVAL SATURDAY 17–SUNDAY 18 MARCH

To prove that veganism is more than just a trend, get on board this growing foodie lifestyle. The Viva! Vegan Festival at Shoreditch Town Hall encourages you to taste new and unfamiliar vegan brands, shop for cruelty-free cosmetics and gifts, swap recipes and learn about animal welfare. You can also watch cookery demonstrations and listen to talks by a vegan athlete. www.viva.org.uk

COUNTRY TO COUNTRY FESTIVAL FRIDAY 9–SUNDAY 11 MARCH

A touch of Nashville comes to the capital for the Country to Country Festival at The O2, which is now in its sixth year.

This three-day event has a host of stars performing, including the Nashville Star contestant Kacey Musgraves (left), Grammy Award-winning Faith Hill and Tim McGraw.

There’s also a special tribute to legend Glen Campbell. www.theo2.co.uk

Take a selfie at the Victorian Giants photo exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery Experience the magic of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons at St Martin-in-the-Fields church The ever-popular ‘Modfather’ Paul Weller rocks out a live set at The O2 arena Enjoy the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra performing at Cadogan Hall in Chelsea Take in the past at the Bank of England’s Historical Customers exhibition A night of cutting-edge dance at Sadler’s Wells from Ballet British Columbia Head to the Southbank Centre for WOW – the Women of the World festival Be inspired by the work of the master at Tate Modern’s Pablo Picasso exhibition Pick up a bargain work of art at the Affordable Art Fair in Battersea Attend the opening night of new play The Great Wave at the National Theatre Take a trip to Kew Gardens to enjoy the last day of the annual Orchids Festival Under eights will love to explore the Mudlarks gallery at the Museum of London Last chance to visit Venom: Killer and Cure exhibition at the Natural History Museum Pop sensation Paloma Faith gets the crowd jumping at The O2 arena Be swept away by a double-bill of dance from Ballet Black at the Barbican A night at the opera with the tragic love story La Traviata at the Coliseum Join in the St Patrick’s Day celebrations at Waxy O’Connor’s Irish pub in Soho Take to the water and visit HMS Belfast on the ship’s 80th anniversary weekend Have a laugh courtesy of Flight of the Conchords at the Hammersmith Apollo Enjoy a classical performance of Ravel, Debussy and Fauré at Wigmore Hall A night out at Tina: The Tina Turner Musical at Aldwych Theatre will be Simply the Best Jazz things up with the James Taylor Quartet at Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club There’s only a few days left to marvel at the Camellia Show at Chiswick House Line the banks of the Thames to watch the annual Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race Motown magic comes to the Jazz Cafe in the shape of A Night of Marvin Gaye Enjoy Easter fun with a chocolate bunny hunt at Hampton Court Palace Let the kids Go Ape at Alexandra Palace’s treetop obstacle course Visit the Hope to Nope exhibition about political posters at The Design Museum Jive all the way back to 1956 at Teddy, a musical showing at The Vaults Enjoy a Good Friday performance of Handel’s Messiah at the Royal Albert Hall Last chance to see Harold and Maude, a dark comedy at Charing Cross Theatre

FROM TOP: SUTRA © HUGO GLENDINNING; FESTIVALGOERS COURTESY OF VIVA! VEGAN FESTIVAL; KACEY MUSGRAVES COURTESY OF COUNTRY TO COUNTRY FESTIVAL

MONDAY 26–WEDNESDAY 28 MARCH

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OCEAN LINERS SPEED AND STYLE Until 17 June #OceanLiners

Book now vam.ac.uk/oceanliners

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“I think the centre of the universe starts in London – I really do believe that.”

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CUBA GOODING JR | WHERE NOW

Cuba Razzle Dazzles

As Cuba Gooding Jr goes from playing OJ Simpson to the all-singing, all-dancing lawyer Billy Flynn in Chicago, he talks to Kohinoor Sahota about movies, musicals and the #MeToo campaign

I

f you want to understand Cuba Gooding Jr, one of the best places to start is with his 1997 Academy Award acceptance speech. As he wins the Oscar for Best Supporting Actor, for his iconic role as Rod ‘show me the money’ Tidwell in Jerry Maguire, he has his head in his hands, takes a deep breath and then jumps valiantly on to the stage.

Gracious, passionate and energetic, he says ‘I love you’ 14 times and punches the sky. It’s like a movie scene in itself, so much so that when he talks over the music – ‘you can cut away, I won’t be mad at you’ – it feels like it is his very own backing track.

It is this energy that is apparent from the moment you encounter Cuba, so when we speak at 11pm Los Angeles time, he is still going, as he says, ‘110 miles per hour.’

CUBA GOODING JR © ROBERT ASCROFT; GOODING JR AS BILLY FLYNN COURTESY OF CHICAGO

LONDON CALLING This month the New York native comes to London to star in his first West End show, Chicago, at the Phoenix Theatre. He is excited to be playing the suave lawyer Billy Flynn. ‘People have seen Billy Flynn done before, so what is Cuba Gooding Jr going to bring to it?’ he asks. ‘It will be a different energy, with a little swagger and a certain amount of soul that you have never seen.

I am excited for people to see the Billy that is starting to manifest itself in my psyche with certain movements, attitude and vocals. It will be fun!’

If you thought all musicals were kitsch, think again. Chicago, which opened in 1975, is the world’s longest-running American musical. Based on a play of the same name by the reporter Maurine Dallas Watkins, it captures a time when the public was enthralled by murders committed by women. The show follows Velma Kelly and Roxie Hart, who kill their adulterous

partners and face a public execution by hanging. What we see here, however, is a rare moment in fiction: men punished for their wrongdoings against women.

As Harvey Weinstein’s sexual misconduct and the #MeToo campaign is still at the forefront of Hollywood’s mind, Cuba opens up about the more serious side of the musical: ‘There is a movement going on with voices of people who have dealt with harassment – on all different levels. If you look at Chicago and the genesis of [choreographer] Bob Fosse’s statements on sexuality and the empowerment of women who are taking control of their lives, sexually, mentally and physically, there is no timelier production to be had right now.’

While the show is, as he says, ‘still very sexual in its presentation’ – the females are dressed in lingerie, after all – he believes the production depicts ‘women realising the power they have to overcome not just personal demons, but social ills that are permeating society’.

MAKING A SONG AND DANCE Cuba has played big characters, from Tre Styles, who dreams of escaping the ghetto in Boyz n the Hood, to OJ Simpson when he was accused of murdering his wife in real life. ‘When I think of all the roles that really affected my career – from Boyz n the Hood to the latest, The People v OJ Simpson – they were always the roles that I thought were challenging,’ he says.

Musical theatre offers that same challenge. The show is full of famous songs, including All That Jazz and Razzle Dazzle. As someone whose father was a singer, and part of the soul group The Main Ingredient, how does Cuba feel about singing? ‘When my agents called and said “you’ve been offered a musical”, it scared me to death. I never thought I’d be singing for a living, or playing a character that was in a musical. It was one of those moments where I said “yes, it’s time for me to do this”.

I was instructed to cut back on the karaoke!’ he laughs.

Even though Cuba began his career as a breakdancer – he even performed with Lionel Richie during the Los Angeles Olympics’ closing ceremony in 1984 – it has been a long time since he has had to learn dance routines.

‘Oh my goodness!

Everything hurts. My pecs, my legs, my biceps,’ he says, laughing loudly. ‘All dancing starts with core balance and strength. Even though I am a lot older than I was when I was a dancer, the muscle memory has come back so readily.’

It is evident, however, that he is a big fan of musicals. He enthuses: ‘Whenever I go to Broadway, I find the newest thing. The first time I saw Cabaret, I went seven times in a row in two weeks. The stage manager said: “Are you coming to replace the lead?”’

He continues: ‘I was like everyone else when I discovered Hamilton – I thought it was so innovative. I felt the same way when I saw The Book of Mormon for the first time, too.’

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WHERE NOW | CUBA GOODING JR

out as being very London to me,’ Cuba remarks fondly.

So what is it about the city that makes it so special? ‘For me, London is a hub that connects to the rest of the world,’ he says.

I think that the centre of the universe starts in London – I really do believe that. Your society is a melting pot of communities.

You go to certain cities and there is a section for Italians or Indians. When you go to London, you feel the people there are organic to London and they feel like Londoners – that energy is why people have gravitated to the city.’

BACK TO THE FUTURE At the start of the year, Cuba reached a milestone: he turned 50. ‘My old man told me: “First 30 learning, next 30 earning, last 30 enjoying,”’ he laughs. With age, he admits to being more philosophical. ‘I am 100 per cent energetic all the time,’ he says.

‘I never understood a vacation. I am starting to understand about meditation and true peace. That is what I try to obtain in my life.

Stars on stage ZOË WANAMAKER Zoë Wanamaker CBE stars as Meg, landlady of an ill-fated guesthouse, in Harold Pinter’s darkly comic The Birthday Party , alongside a star-studded cast including Toby Jones and Stephen Mangan. Wanamaker has enjoyed an illustrious stage and screen career, from the Royal Shakespeare Company via Broadway and more recently in the Harry Potter series, winning two Olivier Awards along the way.

She also played the death-evading Lady Cassandra in the TV series Doctor Who. Her late father, director Sam Wanamaker, was the man responsible for the creation of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, which was built in 1997, as well as the eponymous Sam Wanamaker Playhouse. www.thebirthdayparty.london

I don’t want to have true peace when I am dead, but peace when I can still enjoy it.’

When he looks back at his career, is there a film that stands out? ‘There are parts that are ingrained in my soul,’ he says wistfully.

‘It’s like an old man’s face is his book. Well, my soul is like an old man, if you think of what the souls of these characters have done to me. But if you were to ask: “What movie stands out?”, that would be like picking your favourite wrinkle on your face.’

As he becomes more reflective, he moves on to how he takes his craft seriously: ‘The death for an actor is when people understand him on a personal level. You have to be guarded; you want people to go to a theatre and not know your politics and all of that.’

And what about the future – any dream roles? ‘Right now, my dream is to kill this one,’ he says. We have no doubt he will, and for that reason it would be a crime for you to miss Chicago.

Chicago. To Jun 23. Phoenix Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0844-871 7629. www.chicagowestend.com

Do you want to spot a celebrity?

Then visit one of London’s theatres

JEREMY IRONS Jeremy Irons returns to the London stage for the first time in a decade. The Academy, Golden Globe and Tony Award-winner stars as the tight-fisted actor James Tyrone in Eugene O’Neill’s acclaimed play, Long Day’s Journey into Night, set in a single day in Connecticut in 1912. Irons first trod the boards in 1969 and since then has lit up the West End and Broadway in myriad roles and styles. He’s also well known to TV viewers for his performance as Charles Ryder in the series Brideshead Revisited. He now spends a lot of time at home in Ireland, but fortunately he is currently in London to deliver another stellar performance. www.longdaystheplay.com

CAREY MULLIGAN When two people meet at an airport to board their budget airline flight, it goes from a fleeting glimpse through to a settled life together – and disturbing developments.

Oscar-nominated Carey Mulligan stars in this powerful one-woman show, Girls and Boys. It’s the perfect response for Mulligan, who recently hit out at the film industry for its lack of strong roles for women.

The English actress and singer is known for her film roles including The Great Gatsby and Suffragette. www.royalcourttheatre.com WILL YOUNG Will Young puts his dancing shoes back on with the new musical Strictly Ballroom the Musical, a stage adaptation of Baz Lurhmann’s hit 1992 film.

Boasting a career spanning multi-platinum albums and sell-out tours, Young plays band leader Wally Strange. www.strictlyballroomthe musical.com

Clockwise from left: Zoë Wanamaker; Carey Mulligan; Jeremy Irons and Lesley Manville

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: ZOË WANAMAKER COURTESY OF THE BIRTHDAY PARTY; CAREY MULLIGAN © JOHAN PERSSON; JEREMY IRONS AND LESLEY MANVILLE COURTESY OF LONG DAY’S JOURNEY INTO NIGHT

FOR THE LOVE OF LONDON Coming to London – the home of great British playwrights and musical theatre – seemed like a deciding factor for the actor.

‘If they offered me a musical in Los Angeles, I probably wouldn’t have done it,’ Cuba admits. ‘But, because it’s in London and it’s so removed from my life, I can be completely selfish in this character.’

This clearly is a city that matters to the star. ‘When I started out, I got advice from Paul Newman and Will Smith, and they said that longevity in this business is about connecting with an international audience.

I think the easiest way to do that is through the UK, specifically in London,’ he says.

In fact, one of his earliest memories of the city is poignant. ‘When I did my first film, Boyz n the Hood, they put me up at The Dorchester. Now, every time I go through that hotel lobby, I always think about the very beginning of my acting career. Even though I’ve found other hotels that I have fallen in love with, that first experience at The Dorchester stands

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lace, ies es p y tak ding lad a ’s Da men ndon’s le l Wo o tiona alks to L t terna As In impson S Neil

MEN WO in RGE CHA

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Amy Lamé, London’s first Night Czar

E

ven though it’s only March, it already looks like 2018 will be an historic year for gender equality.

Movements such as #MeToo are motivating a global audience, while this year marks 100 years since some women gained the right to vote in the UK. To celebrate the milestone, a statue of the leading suffragist Millicent Fawcett, designed by Gillian Wearing, will be unveiled in Parliament Square this year. Meanwhile, the Houses of Parliament will launch Voice & Vote: Women’s Place in Parliament in June, an exhibition exploring 200 years of women in politics.

But before all that, the Southbank Centre celebrates International Women’s Day (8 Mar) with the return of the WOW – Women of the World festival (7-11 Mar). This annual event, now in its eighth year, brings together the creative and politically engaged for talks, workshops and performances.

WOW’s eclectic line-up includes comedian Sandi Toksvig, director of Tate galleries Maria Balshaw, and the activist and writer Helen Pankhurst, who is the great-granddaughter of the trailblazing suffragette Emmeline Pankhurst. As the spotlight turns on wonderful women, we meet five who are blazing their own trails in London.

London is the world’s largest city to have a Night Czar, whose job is to ensure nightlife is safe and fun. Born in New Jersey, USA, Lamé has lived in London for 25 years. Her club night, Duckie, has been running at the Royal Vauxhall Tavern every Saturday since 1995, and she is at the WOW festival to judge the Women in Creative Industries Awards.

Which achievement are you most proud of?

The work that we’re doing around women’s safety. The amount of live music venues that we’ve saved, too – we’ve lost a lot of them over the past 10 years, and finally we’re seeing green shoots of new development.

What advice would you most like to pass on to women starting out in your industry?

Be the change you want to see – identify those gaps – that’s what I’ve done in my career. My club has been going for 22 years, and we started it because there was nowhere that we wanted to go to. Be bold and try to get a mentor, which is something I didn’t have in my younger years.

Left: WOW founder Jude Kelly Right: comedian Sandi Toksvig

Who will you be thinking of on International Women’s Day? I’ll be thinking of Millicent Fawcett and her new Parliament Square statue. This is the square’s first statue of a woman, by a woman – Gillian Wearing is making it. Fawcett was a great suffragist, and is just perfect to commemorate with a statue.

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| WHERE | WHERE CHINESE LONDON NOW WOMEN IN CHARGE NOW

Yana Peel, Serpentine Galleries CEO Positioned on either side of the Serpentine lake in Hyde Park, the Serpentine Gallery and the Serpentine Sackler Gallery have been under Peel’s control since 2016.

Born in Russia and raised in Canada, she works to showcase the best new ideas in contemporary art.

What’s the best thing about being a woman in London?

I love having a feminist mayor in Sadiq Khan and a deputy mayor in Justine Simons, who flies the flag for this city’s culture so powerfully – and stylishly!

What is the biggest obstacle to gender equality in your profession?

Our artistic director [Hans-Ulrich Obrist] is the greatest feminist, so I feel fortunate to work in a merit-based, gender-blind partnership. We are proud to have main gallery shows by female artists in every season of 2018.

Asma Khan, head chef and owner of Darjeeling Express Khan’s Indian cooking is inspired by her Calcutta childhood and royal Mughlai ancestry. In 2017, she opened Darjeeling Express in Soho with a kitchen run entirely by women, many of them former homemakers.

What’s the best thing about being a woman in London?

The best thing is that nobody cares that you are a woman. I grew up in India in a Muslim family, and I was made very aware that I was a woman and that different rules apply to you in public and in your private life. In London there are no rules – here in the West End, especially, no one cares about your sexuality, gender, the colour of your skin. Of course, it’s not perfect, but in my opinion, it is the greatest city in the world.

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

What is the biggest obstacle to gender equality in your profession?

A big hindrance is the hours, because a lot of women have families, or would like to have a life outside the kitchen. I have discussions to find out who can afford to stay until 11pm and who cannot. It’s incredible when there is equality in that decision-making process; I’ve never seen this in any other restaurant.

Who is your female icon?

A 13th-century Sultan called Razia Sultana. She was made ruler of Delhi by her father, even though he had sons, and I love that her qualities as a leader and fighter got her that position. In the end, she was killed by nobles who found it difficult to accept her. When you’re so good, they can’t ignore you and there doesn’t need to be positive discrimination.

ALL IMAGES ON FACING PAGE COURTESY OF WOW – WOMEN OF THE WORLD FESTIVAL. THIS PAGE: YANA PEEL © DAVID BEBBER; ASMA KHAN © MING TANG-EVANS PHOTOGRAPHY

Who will you be thinking of on International Women’s Day? Ada Lovelace, the world’s first computer programmer.

She called her work ‘poetical science’ – I love that – and you can find her Blue Plaque in St James’s Square, which is next to the wonderful London Library.

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Camilla Barrow, Crossrail deputy project manager Engineer Camilla Barrow and her team undertake the rail systems work on Crossrail, one of Europe’s biggest construction projects, which is opening in December. She is responsible for 50km (32 miles) of new track beneath central London, from Westbourne Park in the west to Plumstead in the east.

What advice would you give to women joining your industry?

There’s a need for more diversity in the engineering industry, and women have a big part to play in that. The statistics, the big companies and the major projects all agree that diversity results in a wider variety of solutions. Now is a fantastic time to become an engineer.

Who is your female icon and why?

Amelia Earhart, who was the first female

Co-founding de Rijke Marsh Morgan Architects (dRMM) in 1995, Morgan strives to take on design projects which make a difference to people’s daily lives, such as schools and social housing.

Which achievement are you most proud of?

We won the 2017 Stirling Prize – which is like the Best Picture Oscar for architecture – for Hastings Pier on the UK’s south coast. I’m also proud to run a practice that’s gender neutral; we choose the best people and treat everybody the same. It’s been proven that having women on management teams improves working environments and financial results.

Who will you be thinking of on International Women’s Day? Our UK government, and London’s police force and fire brigade are all led by women. So if you’re thinking about how women are moving forward and making their mark, it is extraordinary if you reflect on those sorts of things. I have huge respect for any woman who takes on a role which is usually taken by men, such as Theresa May. Who are your female icons?

Jude Kelly is pretty amazing. If you think about a Londoner who has done so much for women, she’s cool. I respect Shami Chakrabarti, now a Baroness, who became a friend of mine when she was head of civil rights group Liberty.

What is the biggest obstacle to gender equality in your profession?

All the large companies have the right policies and procedures in place, but the real measure of success is inclusivity, which is harder to measure. Now is an interesting time, with companies having to publish their pay gaps by the end of this tax year, and you can already see from some of the companies that have done it that we’re not where we should be. The responsibility rests with the leadership within the industry.

Walk with the WOMEN of

Mary Seacole

LONDON

Tour guide Rachel Kolsky has released Women’s London, which explores sights, statues and buildings associated with great women

• From Westminster Tube station, cross Bridge

Street to Big Ben. The clock tower was officially renamed Elizabeth Tower in 2012, to honour the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. It is part of the Palace of Westminster, where the suffragettes famously chained themselves to the railings as they fought for women’s rights more than 100 years ago.

Walk back and across the River Thames over Westminster Bridge. On your left, you’ll see the majestic statue of the female warrior Boudica, who led an uprising against the Romans in AD61.

Turn right at the other end of the bridge and into the precincts of St Thomas’ Hospital, where you will find the Florence Nightingale Museum on your left.

Britain’s most famous nurse founded a school of nursing here in 1860, following her return from the Crimean War. You will also see a statue of nurse Mary Seacole.

Cross Lambeth Palace Road, walk under the railway line and turn right on to Westminster Bridge Road.

Continue along and past Lambeth North station until you reach Morley College on your right. Outside the building, you will find 14 mosaics of pioneering local women.

• •

•

Women’s London is in bookshops now.

Visit www.golondontours.com

CAMILLA BARROW COURTESY OF CROSSRAIL; SADIE MORGAN © KAJSA KAX; MARY SEACOLE © LOUIS BERK; WOMEN’S LONDON BOOK COURTESY OF IMM LIFESTYLE

Sadie Morgan, co-founder and director of dRMM Architects

aviator to fly solo across the Atlantic Ocean. Also, as a result of that, she helped to create the Ninety-Nines – an organisation for female pilots. When you look at her challenges, drive and determination, she’s pretty inspirational with her can-do attitude.

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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS

ZIP UP YOUR LIP From London designer Amanda Wakeley Luxury Lipstick Poppy Bag, £95, Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RJ

FROM LONDON

TAG ALONG Handcrafted tags made of deerskin Burlington Luggage Tags, £85 each, Smythson, 40 New Bond St, W1S 2DE

Take your pick from these travel items, from quirky carry-on bags to luxury eye masks

THE BACK STORY British designer Anya Hindmarch is famous for her quirky accessories Eyes Mini Backpack in Circus Leather, £895, Anya Hindmarch, 118 New Bond St, W1S 1EW

FOR YOUR EYES ONLY An eye mask with a pinch of lavender to soothe tired eyes and aid sleep Otis Batterbee Cravat-print Eye Mask, £50, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

YOUR CUP OF TEA This travel cup from the world-famous store has a London-inspired print Pretty City Thermal Travel Mug, £10, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1 7XL

MAKING IT UP The London designer creates luxury leather goods Tidy All in Orange Lizard Print, £70, Aspinal of London, 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB

CHILD’S PLAY Visit Hamleys, the iconic children’s store, for great gifts Where’s Wally? Book Travel Collection, £9.99, Hamleys, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT

WOMAN © ISTOCK; PRODUCT IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS

PERFECT PRINTS Cath Kidston is noted for her London prints Marching Band Luggage Tag, £6, Cath Kidston, 180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER

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Y

Don’t be a tourist Be an explorer Take a leap through time and space on the world-famous Meridian Line at the Royal Observatory, Greenwich.

Royal Observatory | Cutty Sark | National Maritime Museum | The Queen’s House

Only 20 minutes from central London Cutty Sark (Zone 2)

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Greenwich (Zone 2)

Greenwich Pier

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE The Passion of Jesus

Hampton Court Palace Shrek’s Adventure!

St Martin-in-the-Fields

A cracking time London isn’t often associated with having a warm or sunny climate, which makes Easter a particularly bright time as the days grow longer, the trees get heavier and people dream hopefully of summer.

Easter weekend takes place at the end of this month (from 30 Mar) and is a great time to enjoy family activities around the city.

Superheroes have never been cooler, a fact which ZSL London Zoo is celebrating for the Easter season with its Superpowers Trail (30 Mar-15 Apr; p. 28). The route is dotted with stops where visitors can learn more about animals with serious superpowers.

For more animal action, head south west with your youngsters to Barnes, to encounter all kinds of new life emerging at the London Wetland Centre (WWT). It boasts its own family of otters, as well as large wild areas which you can explore. This Easter, WWT is hiding ducklings across the centre for Dusty’s Giant Duck Hunt (inset) – find them all to win a prize (30 Mar-15 Apr; www.wwt.org.uk).

For an adventure beyond Barnes, catch the train from Waterloo to Hampton Court Palace, for a bunny hunt (24 Mar-12 Apr; p. 33). King

Henry VIII’s favourite palace is releasing a colony of Lindt gold bunnies among its grounds. Hop around the Great Hall and across the famous gardens, collecting bunnies and learning new stories, with a chocolate prize at the finish line.

Back in central London, an annual tradition returns to Trafalgar Square on Good Friday (30 Mar). Since 2010, The Passion of Jesus in this iconic square has grown to attract an estimated audience of 20,000. There are two performances (noon and 3.15pm) featuring approximately 80 actors and they’re free to watch. The show’s producer, Charlotte de Klee, says the resurrection scene is the highlight and, in case you were wondering, the show continues even if it rains (www.wintershallwww.wintershallestate.com).

While you’re in Trafalgar Square, make time to visit St Martin-in-the-Fields (p. 29) Outside, this landmark church reopens its summertime Café in the Courtyard (from 26 Mar), while inside there’s a series of free and

ticketed concerts planned for Easter. Free classical concerts will also take place (1pm 26-27 Mar & 2-6 Apr).

If you’re planning a trip to Hampstead Heath, make time for the Cadbury Easter Egg Hunt at Fenton House and Garden (30 Mar-2 Apr).

This gorgeous 17th-century house is a fiveminute walk from Hampstead station and filled with Georgian furniture. In the garden, you’ll discover an adventurous trail dotted with chocolate prizes (www.nationaltrust.org. uk/fenton-house-and-garden).

For something entirely different, how about a dragon encounter? At the South Bank’s interactive walk-through experience Shrek’s Adventure! (p. 29), there’s a How to Train Your Dragon surprise for Easter visitors, based on the popular DreamWorks film. Children will love looking at the dragon maternity ward that has been built, which is populated by hatching eggs and a Viking egg nurse.

As ever, London really has got an option for every visitor this Easter.

HAMPTON COURT PALACE © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES; THE PASSION OF JESUS COURTESY OF WINTERSHALL ESTATE; DRAGON COURTESY OF SHREK’S ADVENTURE!; ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS © MARC GASCOIGNE; DUSTY DUCK © WWT

Easter has arrived and there are many ways to celebrate it in the capital, writes Neil Simpson

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VISIT THE

LONDON EYE

Book online and save today at

londoneye.com ‘Coca-Cola’, the Dynamic Ribbon Device and the design of the ‘Coca-Cola Contour Bottle’ are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company.

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SIGHTSEEING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

SIGHTSEEING Apsley House This beautiful Georgian building was the London home of the first Duke of Wellington and has changed very little since his victory at Waterloo in 1815. It has grand interiors as well as fine art on display. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £9.30; child £5.60. www.english-heritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse.

149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 0207499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit

Banqueting House

This 115m-tall observation tower, which was designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. MonFri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099.

Off map. Station: Stratford.

This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Westminster, which was destroyed by fire. You can explore the vaulted drinking den beneath Banqueting House that was used by James I for entertaining friends. Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult £7.20; child free. www.hrp. org.uk/banqueting-house. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm. Attend feeding sessions throughout the day to watch animals such as otters, meerkats and monkeys as they eat (monkey feeding sessions during weekends and school holidays only). Other animals to see include pigs, ferrets, wallabies, emus and snakes. Open daily 10am-4.30pm or dusk. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826.

Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The British Library The world’s largest library, with a great permanent collection as well as a programme of temporary exhibitions. To 13 May: Listen: 140 Years of Recorded Sound. Step inside a listening booth to explore the museum’s vast collection of recordings, alongside a display discussing the impact of recorded sound since the invention of the phonograph in 1877.

Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Please check for times.

Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. It is usually closed to the public, except in summer when you can explore the stunning state rooms (21 Jul-31 Sep).

Please check for occasional private tours. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7.

Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Changing the Guard

Free entry for Friends of the RA Green Park, Piccadilly Circus

Anthony van Dyck (1599–1641), Charles I in Three Positions (detail), 1635–36. Oil on canvas, 84.4 x 99.4 cm. RCIN 404420. Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2018.

ENJOY A ROYAL DAY OUT OF DAZZLING ART AT TWO MAGNIFICENT EXHIBITIONS

XXXXXXXXX

27 January — 15 April 2018

Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather).

During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, who during the course of the ceremony become the Queen’s Guard, march to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; please check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision. org.uk/changing-the-guard. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7.

Station: Victoria/Green Park.

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SIGHTSEEING Chelsea Physic Garden

Fulham Palace

Go Ape Alexandra Palace

London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal ones and tropical plants in glasshouses. Free daily tours. Mon-Fri 11am-4pm; 30 Mar 11am-6pm.

Adult £6.10; child £4.40. www.chelseaphysic garden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now it’s a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens and a programme of themed tours. 8 & 18 Mar: Garden Walk. Guided tour of the garden and the rare plants which grow there; check for times. To 15 Apr: Fulham Palace Through Postcards. Presenting a variety of postcards from all periods relating to the palace and exploring what they reveal of its history. Please check for times. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org.

Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map.

Station: Putney Bridge.

A treetop obstacle course with ladders, bridges and zip lines has opened for kids at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake nearby. Thur-Sun from 9am; open all week 25-31 Mar. Adult from £20; child from £20. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map.

Station: Alexandra Palace.

Chiswick House & Gardens House closed until 30 Mar. The restored 18thcentury gardens inspired New York’s Central Park.

To 25 Mar: Camellia Show.

Showcasing 33 different varieties of rare and historic camellias from around the world in the Grade I-listed conservatory (p. 34). Gardens daily 7am-dusk year round, conservatory daily 10am-4pm; house is open for selected periods during the Camellia Show (please check for times). www.chgt. org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, W4 2RP. T: 0208995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders,

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Cutty Sark This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive displays on deck, enjoy afternoon tea under the hull or take part in the lively programme of family-friendly events. 17 Mar: St Patrick’s Cèilidh.

Celebrate a traditional Irish cèilidh on board from 7pm; £30 per person. Daily 10am-5pm.

Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark.

Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 0208312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th century. Silent night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennis severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. 15 Mar: Dr Johnson and Mr Pope: ‘An Ornament from an Inconvenience’.

Fund-raising talk about Dr Johnson and the poet and satirist Alexander Pope. Please check for staged performances, talks and themed walking tours. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s – it’s part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace. Sun-Fri 10am-4pm. Adult £14.40; child £8.60. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham.

Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map.

Station: Eltham.

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SIGHTSEEING bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience.

Please check for opening times and days. Adult £35; child from £27. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map.

Station: Battersea Park.

Handel & Hendrix in London The former homes of both the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was from 1968 to 1969. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm. Please check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast

The beautiful game If you’re a football fan visiting London and yearn to go to a Premier League match, it can be difficult to get a ticket. But now there’s a chance to watch top teams in action.

While their new stadium is being built, due for completion for the 2018-19 season, Tottenham Hotspur (Spurs) play their matches at Wembley Stadium (p. 33). Aiming to fill the 90,000-capacity ground, the club is giving neutral fans the chance to buy match tickets, except for some major fixtures. This month, enjoy watching Harry Kane and Co. host Huddersfield Town (3 Mar) and Newcastle (16 Mar). Combine your matchday experience with a Wembley Tour and go behind the scenes of the famous stadium.

Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. 17-18 Mar: HMS Belfast Turns 80.

During this anniversary weekend, discover stories from the ship’s long and colourful history. Daily 10am-6pm; private memorial event Fri 16 Mar. Adult £15.45; child £7.70. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building which is also a royal palace. Tours every Sat. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying

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SIGHTSEEING adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114.

F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. The Keats and Milton: Paradise Lost exhibition provides an opportunity to see the poet’s response to one of the greatest epic poems ever written, by reading the notes he scribbled across Milton’s verse. Please check for regular literature events and free family activity days. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm.

Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/ things-to-do/keats-house. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Under the bridge

Kensington Palace

It’s one of the most recognisable landmarks in the world, but how many people can say that they’ve been inside Tower Bridge? Every weekend this month, you have the chance to do just that if you join an Engineering Tour (p. 30). As you learn about the history of the bridge, you’ll ascend to the upper walkways to experience the glass floor and views across London, then climb down to the steaming boilers, hydraulics and pumps of the engine rooms. The tour also grants access to the bascule chambers – huge spaces below the water level. You’ll discover that the acoustics in these chambers are phenomenal – perfect for the concerts that are occasionally held down there. Booking is essential.

This royal residence, which sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s final home and is currently where Prince Harry and Meghan Markle reside in Nottingham Cottage. Explore the grand King’s State Apartments, and don’t miss Diana: Her Fashion Story, an exhibition dedicated to the sumptuous style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £18.70; child £9.40. www.hrp. org.uk/kensington-palace. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

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SIGHTSEEING Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and a wonderful art collection made up of Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough. Check for regular family events. Daily 10am-4pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood.

Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286.

Off map. Station: Hampstead.

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child,

especially those aged betwen four and 14, could dream of, including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. Look out for sports training, too, run by professionals. The early years area means that younger siblings will have a lot of fun, too.

You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t a KidZania when you were growing up. Daily from either 9.30am or 10am; please check for closing times.

Hired for private events 5-6, 12-13 & 19-20 Mar. Advance: adult from £15; child from £18. On the day: adult from £18; child from £39. www.kidzania. co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset.

Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are located in a former plague pit. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com.

2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past.

See, hear, feel and even smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you thanks to costumed characters. Not for small children or the faint-hearted! Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Shrek’s Adventure! and Madame Tussauds.

Please check for times and prices. www.the dungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into the landmarks on view.

Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Shrek’s Adventure! and Madame Tussauds. Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000.

F8. Station: Waterloo.

ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species (p. 20). Highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure and endangered Sumatran tigers. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, Morning with the Gibbons and Giraffe High Tea, while the ‘Junior Keeper for a Day’ package allows visitors to meet and feed a variety of animals. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £27.04; child £20. www.zsl.org/zsl-london-zoo. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

Madame Tussauds Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition, featuring 11 sets from the film; a 5.5m-high animatronic head in Kong: Skull Island and ‘will.i.am’ on the set of The Voice UK. Recent additions include Theresa May, Mo Farah and Michael Fassbender. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Shrek’s Adventure! and Coca-Cola London Eye. Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london.

Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000.

C6. Station: Baker Street.

The Monument This beautiful stone column, which was designed

by Sir Christopher Wren, stands in the heart of the City and was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery for magnificent views across the city (there is no lift). Daily 9.30am-5pm.

Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717.

E10. Station: Monument.

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SIGHTSEEING The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions.

Nissan Innovation Station. Take a virtual test drive in an electric Nissan LEAF and experience Nissan’s Motorsports Training Lab, which allows you to test your stamina and reactions against other NISMO athletes. There’s also colouring activities, quizzes, a GT-R virtual reality experience and Gran Turismo 6 racing pods. Free. Daily noon-8pm. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. A highlight is the costumed actor-led tour every Saturday, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Wed, Sat-Sun pre-booked tours 11am, or drop-in 2pm-5.30pm; late tour from 7pm on third Wed of every month. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission).

Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Shrek’s Adventure! and Madame Tussauds. www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001.

F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

Shrek’s Adventure!

Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films (p. 20). Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London

Aquarium available. Check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church (p. 20) with tours, a brass-rubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. The Café in the Courtyard reopens 26 Mar. Mon-Fri 8.30am6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org.

Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8.

Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda.

The Xstrata Treetop Walkway offers great views.

To 11 Mar: International Garden Photographer of the Year Exhibition. The Nash Conservatory showcases the winners and runners-up from this prestigious competition.

To 11 Mar: Orchids Festival. The annual show takes place in the Princess of Wales Conservatory, this year celebrating Thailand’s vibrant plant life and culture. Daily from 10am, please check for closing times; Kew Palace closed until 29 Mar. Adult £17; child £5; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 0208332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Mews Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Witness daily life and learn about the Mews’ history. To 25 Mar: daily 10am-4pm; From 26 Mar: daily 10am-5pm; closed 30 Mar. Adult £11; child £6.40. www.royalcollection.org.uk/visit/ royalmews. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has regular astronomers workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows throughout the day. The Sky Tonight. Daily planetarium show that explores the Moon, constellations, planets and deep space objects: adult £8; child £5.50. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

SEA LIFE London Aquarium One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a beautiful glass walkway above 16 sharks. You can also www.wheretraveler.com 29

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SIGHTSEEING St Paul’s Cathedral

Tower Bridge Exhibition

Tower of London

Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral – once the tallest structure in London – has stunning mosaics. It sits on Ludgate Hill at the highest point of the City of London and is a Grade I-listed building. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Free tours; please check for times.

Free organ recitals most Sun (4.45pm-5.15pm).

Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older neighbour, London Bridge). You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide (p. 26) and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Check for bridge opening and closing times (most days) – a real spectacle.

Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check for bridge lift times. www.towerbridge. org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761.

E11. Station: Tower Hill.

This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free).

Tue-Sat 9am-4.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-4.30pm.

Adult £24.80; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk/ tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680.

Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The View from The Shard

THE ULTIMATE FOOTBALL EXPERIENCE GO BEHIND THE SCENES AT STAMFORD BRIDGE

Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. If you pre-book you can do yoga on Saturdays at 8.30am (£45). It also hosts silent discos every Saturday 10pm (£37.50). Please check for times and prices (cheaper advance online). www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London

Save 10% off walk-up bookings, by quoting WHERE LONDON when you arrive at the Tours Reception.

To Book: Please call 0371 811 1955 Email tours@chelseafc.com or visit chelseafc.com/stadium-tours

Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. It’s a fascinating insight into filmmaking. Please check for times. Adult £41; child £33. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this landmark Gothic abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs, and contains many ornate tombs.

It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers.

Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9.30am-2.30pm.

Adult £22; child £9. Wed 4.30pm-7pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

RIVER TRIPS City Cruises

For full terms and conditions, plea se visit w w w.chelseafc.com

Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat. Other cruises also available. Please check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

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SIGHTSEEING London Eye River Cruise

Evan Evans

Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. To 18 Mar daily 11.45am-4.45pm.

Adult £13.15; child £6.50. Please check for times and prices after 19 Mar. Discounted joint tickets with Coca-Cola London Eye available. www. londoneye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8.

Station: Waterloo.

The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

MBNA Thames Clippers

Golden Tours

The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless (UK debit card) payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to find out your location. River Roamer hop-on-andoff advance adult £16.30, child £8.15; on the day adult £19, child £9.50; children under five travel free. www.mbnathamesclippers.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7001 2200.

From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. The company

offers an unrivalled range of tours and services.

Check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets.

Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the

WINNER OF THE TOP HORROR ATTRACTION IN THE WORLD WORLDWIDE ATTRACTION AWARDS

Thamesjet Try Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10.30am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7740 0400.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS BEE Midtown Guided Walks More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. The 10am and 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station; 11am, 2pm and 5.30pm walks start at the red sculpture in the courtyard of Central St Giles. www.bee-midtown.org. Holborn Tube station, 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA. T: 0207078 7077. D7/8. Station: Holborn.

Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of opentop double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £35; child £18. www.big bustours.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7808 6753.

IMMER AND A H SIVE THEATRE EAR SCAR T PUMPING

E MAZ E!

Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’ Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas which can’t be reached by bus. Departs from bus stop 15 at Trafalgar Square.

Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 11am. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 15, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753.

Station: Charing Cross.

Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge or City of London-qualified guide drives up to five people around in a taxi. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who one – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. There’s even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk.

Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDONS SPOOKY HISTORY

TheLondonBridgeExperience.com The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY FREE audio guides available

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SIGHTSEEING infamous serial killer Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East Station. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Aldgate East Underground station. T: 020-8530 8443.

Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or spook yourself with an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£400 per person). Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondon helicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map.

Station: Clapham Junction.

The London Helicopter Tour

London Magical Tours

Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views.

Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including Tower of London, St Paul’s Cathedral and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz,

Award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings.

Discover the UK with a professional guide and chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle. Multilingual guides are available in all languages. www.london magicaltours.com. T: 0870-489 0156.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each take around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. 5 Mar: Combine a Jack the Ripper tour with cocktails at Discount Suit Company, £20; online booking essential. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Neverland Children’s Tours Neverland Children’s Tours offers fully supervised activities and adventures for children aged eight and over, with the aim of making London sightseeing interactive and fun. Each guided activity is balanced by opportunities to get creative, chill out, play and meet new friends. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 020-3239 5059. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Original London Sightseeing Walk Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm or Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. www.theoriginaltour.com.

17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722.

E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take an hour-long tour of this Victorian concert hall.

From 8 Mar: Suffragettes at the Hall Tour. The Royal Albert Hall was the venue for 24 women’s suffrage rallies between 1908 and 1918. Most days throughout the year, call for times. Adult £14; child £7. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz hotel. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com.

150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6.

Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe This reconstruction of William Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs. The adjacent Sam Wanamaker Playhouse, named after the American director, is a candlelit performance space modelled after the traditional Elizabethan theatres. Please check for times and prices of both venues. www.shakespearesglobe.com.

21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 0207902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

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SIGHTSEEING Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup (p. 24; Tottenham Hotspur).

From 10am; please check for dates. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium.com/wembleytours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park

Henry’s grand state apartments including the Great Hall. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £25; child £12.50. www.hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace.

Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Hever Castle and Gardens

Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful castle was the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, the second wife of King Henry VIII. Daily 10.30am4.30pm (castle opens noon). Adult £17.25; child Yonda £9.75. www.hevercastle.co.uk.

Edenbridge, TVFTS_WHERE_LONDON_AD_276X206_SUNSET_AW.pdf 1 Hever, 04/12/2017 15:36 On a Yonda tour, you’ll feel like a real Londoner Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map. Station: as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights Victoria to Oxted/Edenbridge, then taxi.

– and little-known cobbled streets. The car is

Leeds Castle Fairytale 900-year-old castle and former Norman stronghold which was once used by Henry VIII and his first wife, and was a royal residence for centuries. Enjoy the moat, gardens and parkland.

Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, and see 100 species of birds in the aviary. The Gatehouse Exhibition is a fascinating journey through the castle’s history. Look out for special Easter events (from 30 Mar). Grounds and garden daily 10am-5pm; castle 10.30am-4pm. Adult £24.90; child £16.90. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765 400. Off map.

Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

fitted with technology that guides you along well-researched routes, giving turn-by-turn directions and a fun, informative commentary along the way based on your location. It can even cope with road closures, while the Congestion Charge is included in the price. Tours 90 minutes. £60 per tour in a two-seat convertible car; £95 per tour in a four-seat car, with a clear panoramic roof. www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask.

To 18 Mar: Old Traditions, New Visions: Art in India and Pakistan after 1947.

From 9 Mar: Michelangelo. A rare chance to view a set of the artist’s drawings which have just returned from NYC’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org.

Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000.

Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6.30pm or dusk; formal gardens daily 10am-6pm. Adult £26; child £14.50. www.blenheim palace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Chartwell The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill was bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation, while Churchill and his wife Clementine were still living in it – the house is still decorated as it was in the 1930s. You’ll find a lovely kitchen garden and woodland to explore, too. Mon-Fri 11.30am5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £6.75. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868381.

Off map. Station: Victoria to Oxted, then taxi.

Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river (p. 20). Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, and see www.wheretraveler.com 33

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SIGHTSEEING The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Explore the beautiful town of Windsor and nearby Eton College, using 11 bus stops incorporating the castle grounds and following the river. Hop-on and hop-off to discover this famous market town and its centuries-old royal history – Eton College is where Princes William and Harry were educated.

Departures every 30 mins (please check for dates).

Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £45; child £22. www.theoriginaltour.com.

T: 020-8877 1722.

Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. Garden daily 10am-5pm; house daily 11am-5pm. Adult £11.40; child £5.70. www.national trust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

In full bloom East meets west in spectacular style at Chiswick House & Gardens, with the return of its Camellia Show (to 25 Mar; p. 23). More than 30 varieties of the Asian beauty will unfurl inside the 18th-century conservatory. This majestic Grade I-listed structure was built to house the original shipment of camellias from China in 1828, and while the collection has expanded, experts believe that many of today’s camellias at Chiswick are from those original plants. The show includes the rare ‘Middlemist’s Red’ camellia, of which there is only one other example in the world. Elsewhere, Chiswick House’s gardens offer lots more to explore as spring creeps among the leaves, including monumental Lebanese cedar trees and a vibrant wilderness of native trees and shrubs.

Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the wood-panelled Throne Room, the collection of rare French and Flemish tapestries in the state apartments, and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm; closed 30 Mar. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royal collection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map.

Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See

By Night

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30 and 21:20 Adult - £18 Child - £10

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

www.seelondonbynight.com

CAMELLIA © JOHN FIELDING

Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

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Westminster Abbey

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £17.50; child £9.90. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Syon Park

House and gardens closed until 12 Mar. This Historic Royal stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is Format home to the Duke of Northumberland.

Don’t miss the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed landscape Spine Width gardens and Great Conservatory. From 12 Mar: Spine Height Gardens daily 10.30am-5pm. From 14 Mar: House HRP Text Wed, Thur & Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £13; child £6. www.syonpark.co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Palace Text Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map.

Icon Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.

Waddesdon Manor

THEY’RE ALL HERE BRITAIN’S GREATEST STORIES

Places – Spines 6 Sheet Portrait 200mm 1800mm 121pt (Tracked at +40) 181pt (Tracked at -10) 114mm Wide (2.8pt/1.4pt)

Warwick Castle

Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. The dungeon, with actors, is a highlight. Check for times and prices. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit the Tea Shop, then wander to the nearby Grade I-listed Watts Chapel, made from carved terracotta.

Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.wattsgallery.org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235.

Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and where Prince Harry and Meghan Markle will wed. Highlights includes the state apartments furnished with art

by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House is a superb piece of craftsmanship. Visit the Gothic St George’s Chapel in the grounds. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 9.30am5.15pm; closed 29-30 Mar. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

THE

HillsboroughHillsborough Castle Castle

Historic Royal Places – Spines 6 Sheet Portrait 200mm 1800mm Book online today for fast track discounted entry 121pt (Tracked at +40) FREE AUDIO TOURS . CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT . CONCERTS AND LECTURES .

181pt (Tracked at -10) 114mm Wide (2.8pt/1.4pt)

Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th Format century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus Spine Width gardens and aviary. Wed-Sun; please check for times. The main rooms of the houseSpine are closed Height for conservation until 20 Mar. Adult £10; child £5.

HRP Text www.waddesdonmanor.org. Near Aylesbury, Palace Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653 226. Text Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

Icon

SHOP

EXPERIENCE OF ANOTHER

LIFETIME Escape the modern world this weekend and walk in Henry VIII’s footsteps at the magnificent Hampton Court Palace.

Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic abbey has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th duke and his family. Tour the abbey to find out more about its family history, art and antiques, then stroll around its Repton-inspired gardens. The abbey is closed until 23 Mar; please check for times and prices. www.woburnabbey. co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525290333. Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

Book online today to save

Just 35 minutes from Waterloo

www.wheretraveler.com 35

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Left: Picasso in 1932 Right: Girl Before a Mirror by Picasso

The modern master What a difference a year makes – Picasso produced some of his most passionate art in 1932 and they’re all at Tate Modern, writes Neil Simpson The year is 1932 and artist Pablo Picasso, who is 51 years old, is living with his wife Olga and young son Paulo, as well as enjoying a passionate secret relationship with a model, Marie-Thérèse Walter, who is half his age.

The father of Cubism described artistic expression as ‘just another form of keeping a diary’. If Picasso had written a diary at the time, then it would certainly have been a page-turner.

By the end of this dramatic year – which has since been referred to as ‘his year of wonders’ – Picasso’s first career retrospective had opened in Paris, while Marie-Thérèse was dangerously unwell after swimming in Paris’ Marne river, losing most of her blonde hair as a result. Marie-Thérèse gave birth to Picasso’s daughter, Maya, in 1935, which led to Olga leaving him forever.

Underlining what is considered to be one of Picasso’s most dazzling artistic periods, Tate Modern’s first solo Pablo Picasso exhibition, Picasso 1932 – Love Fame Tragedy (from 8 Mar), is a mesmerising

month-by-month journey through the Spanish master’s year in art.

With more than 100 paintings, sculptures and drawings on display, the exhibition makes Tate Modern a key destination for modern art lovers this spring. Works on show include the abstract work Le Sauvetage (The Rescue), a dramatic scene depicting a distressed woman being dragged from a river. During this time, Picasso was producing high-profile, emotional paintings for a woman who was not his wife, which makes this collection so compelling.

Picasso also painted portraits of Marie-Thérèse, which have since become regarded as some of his greatest works. A trio of famous nudes from this time are a highlight of the exhibition – all three of them were painted during the same five-day period, but haven’t been displayed together since 1932. Here, Tate Modern reunites all three.

Love, Fame, Tragedy captures Picasso’s creative bliss before storms hit his personal life, as he precariously balanced two women, worldwide success and the demands of his art.

For full listing, turn to p. 43

New classics King’s College London’s The Classical Now (from 8 Mar) explores the influence of classical Greek and Roman styles in modern art, displaying works by Picasso alongside those by Yves Klein, Damien Hirst, Grayson Perry and Rachel Whiteread. It takes place in two venues close to Covent Garden – the Arcade in Bush House, within the King’s College London campus on The Strand, and next door at the Inigo Rooms in Somerset House.

The Classical Now sets out to demonstrate the many interconnections between antiquity and modernity through classical Greek and Roman artefacts to contemporary painting, sculpture and photos.

It uses subtle references, all the way through to the in-your-face work of France’s Léo Caillard: this contemporary artist dresses classical statues in modern styles, including Nike T-shirts (right).

King’s College London, Strand, WC2R 2LS

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

MUSEUMS

FACING PAGE: PICASSO © CECIL BEATON, COURTESY OF TATE; GIRL BEFORE A MIRROR © THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORK, GIFT FROM MRS SIMON GUGGENHEIM © SUCCESSION PICASSO/DACS LONDON; HIPSTERS IN STONE © LÉO CAILLARD. THIS PAGE: WEST BAY, 1996 (DORSET, ENGLAND) © MARTIN PARR/MAGNUM PHOTOS

Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum

Charles Dickens Museum

Clink Prison Museum

The former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist.

Decorated in authentic Victorian style, it displays his personal possessions. Please check for themed Dickensian walks. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; open until 8pm once a month, check for dates.

Adult £9; child £4. www.dickensmuseum.com.

48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127.

C8. Station: Russell Square.

In this former prison dating back to 1144, hands-on exhibits reveal London’s penal past and instruments of torture. It’s said to be haunted by the ghosts of former inmates. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink. co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel and the Physio Room, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to the museum for an overview of the club’s 125-year history. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Chelsea FC Stadium Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun Museum & Tours 10.30am-4.30pm; check for Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Chelsea FC is the match-related closures. SelfTours daily, every 30 minutes only London football guided: adult £20; child £10.

10am-3pm; check for closures team to have won Legends: adult from £40; child from and monthly ex-players tours with the Champions £20.75. Museum only: adult £10; past stars of the game (from £70).

League child £7. www.arsenal.com/tours.

Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm.

Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9).

T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal. www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Bank of England Museum Fulham Broadway.

Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central Churchill War Rooms bank. See its books, silver, paintings, coins and Explore the fortified secret bunker and the photographs, plus gold bars and kids’ activities.

Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, To 2 Mar: Till Time’s Last Sand: where prime minister Sir Winston Churchill A History of the Bank of England. Display exploring and his war cabinet worked during World War II the variety of objects within the bank’s archive. to plot the Allied victory. Find out about his life From 5 Mar: Historical Customers of the Bank and legacy in the Churchill Museum. Daily of England. Revealing famous figures who had 9.30am-6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. www.iwm. dealings with the bank during the 18th and 19th org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. centuries. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols.

T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/ museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 0207601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

The Design Museum This is one of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture.

To 15 Apr: Ferrari: Under the Skin. Celebrating the 70th anniversary of Ferrari, with exhibits about the design, manufacturing and engineering of the car.

From 28 Mar: Hope to Nope: Graphics and Politics 2008-2018. Celebrating the role of graphic design in politics. Daily 10am-6pm. First Fri every month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org.

224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The Fan Museum Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan, with examples from the 12th century to today.

To 6 May: Early Printed Fans. See a range of the first printed fans, which debuted in the 18th century and made fans available to new sections of society. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm.

Adult £4; child £3. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk.

12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441.

Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Benjamin Franklin House This charming 18th-century townhouse is the last remaining home of the American diplomat, inventor, Founding Father and musician, with tours led by costumed actors. Architectural tours Mon; historical shows Wed-Sun (please check for times). Mon tours: adult £6; child free. Shows: adult £8; child free. www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org.

36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8.

Station: Charing Cross.

The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Huge number of permanent displays and treasures from around the world.

To 18 Mar: The Currency of Communism. A study of the changing roles of currency and exchange in Communist states in the century since the 1917 Russian Revolution. To 8 Apr: Living with Gods: Peoples, Places and Worlds Beyond.

Presenting ideas on what makes faith a vital part of human behaviour. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8.

Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

The Cartoon Museum Dedicated to British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today, with a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions.

To 25 Mar: Daily Funnies: An Exhibition of Strip Cartoons. Cartoon strips in magazines and newspapers. Tue-Sun 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8.

Station: Holborn.

See the seaside If a stroll beside the Thames isn’t enough to satisfy your love of the sea, then get a taste for The Great British Seaside at the National Maritime Museum (from 23 Mar; p. 40).

The historic site in Greenwich has collected images from an array of popular British photographers, offering a look at life beside the sea in the UK. In a display of more than 100 snapshots, the museum explores how the seafront has evolved across the country in the past 60 years, from bacon butties on Brighton Beach to damp donkey rides and plush piers. The show features the work of photographers including Martin Parr, Tony Ray-Jones and Simon Roberts. This thoroughly nostalgic exhibition is perfect for those who want to learn more about the most idiosyncratic parts of life in Britain. www.wheretraveler.com 37

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Fashion and Textile Museum

The Guards Museum

Household Cavalry Museum

Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. To 6 May: T-Shirt: Cult, Culture, Subversion. Exploring the role of the T-shirt in 20th-century fashion. Tue-Wed & Fri 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-8pm; Sun 11am-5pm.

Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org.

83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664.

F11. Station: London Bridge.

The history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces. It’s a great insight into the Changing the Guard ceremony.

Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.the guardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271.

D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments.

Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with rare treasures on display.

To 31 Mar: Queen & Commonwealth Season. In celebration of the museum’s 10th anniversary, its year-long festival of special tours and events continues, incorporating a display of photography by Christina Broom, who was the Household Division’s official photographer from 1904 to 1939. Check for individual events.

Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Mon-Sat 11am, Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-5pm; closed 30 Mar. Adult £8; child £6. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070.

E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Located in St Thomas’ Hospital, learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer, known as the ‘Lady with the Lamp’. Free tours every Tue at 3.30pm (except school holidays). Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children, founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Check for regular exhibitions and events. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Garden Museum Located in an historic church, this is the resting place of plant hunters John Tradescant Snr and Jnr, with artefacts, a replica 17th-century knot garden and exhibitions related to garden design.

To 25 Mar: John Brookes: The Man Who Made the Modern Garden. Celebrating the work of the author and MBE who has designed gardens around the world. Sun-Thur 10.30am-5pm; Fri 10.30am-9pm; Sat 10.30am-4pm. Closed first Mon of the month. Adult £10; child £2.50 (when accompanied by an adult). www.gardenmuseum. org.uk. Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7LB. T: 020-7401 8865. F5. Station: Lambeth North/Westminster.

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the adventurous Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and huge selection of musical instruments. To 9 Sep: Coral: Fabric of the Reef.

Artist Karen Dodd uses woollen fabric to draw attention to coral and coral reefs, inspired by the Horniman collections. To 28 Oct: Colour: The Rainbow Revealed. An interactive, child-friendly exhibition which reveals how colour affects and influences the world around us. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman. ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872.

Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake.

To 4 Mar: John Yeoman and Quentin Blake: 50 Years of Children’s Books. Charting the working relationship between the author and illustrator, who have been collaborating since the 1960s.

To 25 Mar: Lucinda Rogers: On Gentrification. Drawings which investigate the clash between old and new in east London. To 29 Apr: Quentin Blake: Arrows of Love. Sketches revealing Blake’s reflections on love. Adult £7.50; child £4.

Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration.org.uk.

2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020.

Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Here comes the science What happens when artists and scientists work together? The answers are on display at the Wellcome Collection in its new exhibition Somewhere in Between (from 8 Mar; p. 42).

Four artists have contributed their work, each harnessing the latest research in either physiology, neuroscience, immunology or genetics. From Martina Amati’s hypnotic freediving films, which depict underwater swimmers pushing their bodies to the limits (pictured), to John Walter’s immersive exploration of HIV in the modern world, there’s plenty to get you thinking. The venue is known for continually exploring the human experience and, for the past 20 years, it has been funding artistic projects which get people talking about science and health.

All of the works are the result of this funding, which means that the Wellcome Collection is making a big, bold statement with this show.

Is the museum succeeding in its mission?

This month, you can decide for yourself.

Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to conflicts today, particularly those involving Britain. Don’t miss the powerful Holocaust Exhibition, which tells the story of the Nazi persecution of the Jews and other groups before and during World War II, and the art collection in the First World War Galleries. To 28 May: Age of Terror: Art Since 9/11. Artists’ responses to war and conflict since 11 September 2001, including work

by Ai Weiwei and Grayson Perry. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 0207416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Jack the Ripper Museum Museum dedicated to the history of the East End in the 1880s, focusing on the serial killer. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.jackthe rippermuseum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 0207488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a lifelike representation of the Jewish East End immigrant quarter. The Holocaust Gallery provides a harrowing collection of photographs and accounts. To 15 Apr: Designs on Britain. The influence of Jewish immigrant artists on prominent 20th-century designs, from posters to products. Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm.

Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk.

Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work.

Permanent collections include paintings, drawings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with hundreds of tiles from the Middle East. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm, tour at 3pm every Wed and Sun (included in ticket price). Leighton Late event (with live music, free tour and free drink) on 9 Mar, 10am-9pm. Adult £9; child £7. www.leighton house.co.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 0207602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles and the high-performance machinery that feature in the renowned film series, including the classic Aston Martin DB5, Goldfinger’s majestic Rolls-Royce Phantom III and the unforgettable Lotus Esprit S1 submersible from The Spy who Loved Me. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.londonfilmmuseum.com.

45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

UNDER, 2015 © MARTINA AMATI

Florence Nightingale Museum

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Explore the historic fight for votes for women through remarkable artefacts and personal stories.

museumoflondon.org.uk/ votesforwomen #VotesforWomen

Sponsored by

FREE ENTRY Barbican, St Paul’s, Moorgate

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Capturing the moment

London Mithraeum

Museum of London

Natural History Museum

On the site of Bloomberg’s latest European headquarters, this new cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago, to honour the god Mithras.

The remains are bought to life through an immersive, multisensory experience. Discover more than 600 objects left by the first Londoners, as well as modern art on the ground floor, at Bloomberg SPACE. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun & bank hols noon-5pm; first Thur of the month 10am-8pm. Admission free. www.london mithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500. D10. Station: Bank.

The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, including Votes for Women, transporting you through the capital’s tumultuous history to today.

To 15 Apr: London Visions. Video installations, video games and architectural narration guide visitors through visions of London’s future, as imagined by an array of artists and designers.

Check for regular family events. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk.

150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844.

D10. Station: Barbican.

Astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery, to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 13 May: Venom: Killer and Cure. Enter the realm of venomous creatures including snakes, centipedes, snails and scorpions. To 28 May: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. The 100 best images from the annual competition, illustrating the beauty of animals plus the vulnerability of life on our planet. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk.

Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4.

Station: South Kensington.

London Transport Museum

Museum of London Docklands

Queen’s House

Located in the Grade II-listed Flower Market, this museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include iconic red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and a padded cell – a train carriage dating back to the 1890s. Enjoy the historic posters promoting the Underground, and the Poster Girls exhibition, which highlights London artwork by female artists.

To 4 Mar: The Design Line. Take a tour of the new stations, art and public spaces created for Crossrail, London’s new train line which opens in December. Europe’s largest infrastructure project will deliver 42km of new tunnels and 10 new stations.

From 16 Mar: Digging Deeper. Exploring London’s forthcoming new Underground route, Crossrail, which will be named the Elizabeth line and run from east to west. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8.

Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising More than 12,000 items from the Robert Opie Collection, revealing how lives have changed over the past 200 years through iconic consumer brands. Exhibits include toys, magazines, technology, travel and fashion. The Time Tunnel transports visitors through centuries of wars and coronations, and the arrival of cinema, radio and television. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm.

Adult £9; child £5. www.museumofbrands.com.

111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611.

Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.

This 17th-century house, an architectural The history of the River Thames, from its time masterpiece by Inigo Jones, boasts 22 lavish rooms as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of displaying a stunning fine art collection spanning the Docklands area. Ten galleries include London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the slave trade, 400 years, including works by Gainsborough and Hogarth. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. and Sailortown, with its 19th-century alleyways. www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house. Queen’s House, To 12 Mar: Explore the Mudlarks Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422.

Gallery. Interactive play space for under- eights, Off map. Station: Cutty Sark. in which they can explore the themes of the museum. To 9 Sep: Fighting for Royal Air Force Museum Empire: From Slavery to Military Service in National aviation museum focusing the West India Regiments. Exhibition on the Royal Air Force, with more about Samuel Hodge, the first Queen’s House is said than 100 outstanding aircraft on African soldier to be awarded the to be haunted, after show, including a life-sized model Victoria Cross. Daily 10am-6pm.

Canadian tourists took of the F-35 fighter jet, the chance Admission free, charges for special a photo of a ghost on to climb inside selected aircrafts, exhibitions. www.museumoflondon. the Tulip Stairs plus photographs and films. Daily org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map.

10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay. special experiences. www.rafmuseum.org.uk.

Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266.

National Maritime Museum Off map. Station: Colindale.

The world’s largest maritime museum, with 10 galleries including the Nelson, Navy, Nation Science Museum gallery exploring the life of the naval hero, Huge museum dedicated to science, plus The Great Map – a huge interactive world technology and medical achievements, including map that reveals stories from maritime history. a Red Arrows 3D simulator and the IMAX theatre.

From 23 Mar: The Great British Seaside. This To 31 Mar: Illuminating India. photography exhibition surveys images captured A celebration of India’s contribution to science, over the past 60 years of Britain’s quirky beach technology and mathematics throughout the culture, taken by some of the country’s best-loved world. To 30 Jun: Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and photographers (p. 37). Check for regular family Care. Commemorating the human impact of World events. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges War I. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.

Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000.

Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

F4. Station: South Kensington.

ALICE LIDDELL BY LEWIS CARROLL, 1858 © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, LONDON

Before Photoshop, Polaroids and Instagram filters, there were the Victorians. Invented during the 1830s, the photograph was still a fresh technology when Lewis Carroll, Julia Margaret Cameron, Oscar Rejlander and Lady Clementina Hawarden were all exploring its potential as a form of art by the middle of the century.

These four Victorian pioneers form the basis of Victorian Giants: The Birth of Art Photography, which arrives at the National Portrait Gallery (from 1 Mar; p. 42).

Most famous for writing Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, Carroll’s photographs of the girl who inspired his book, Alice Liddell (left), will be on display, as well as Rejlander’s Two Ways of Life photograph, groundbreaking for its construction from more than 30 separate negatives.

The gallery is displaying work of these four comrades in one place for the first time, promising an early snapshot of our enduring obsession with the camera.

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Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites?

Fall in love with Wimbledon

Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit.

Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE Supported by

T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum

New Virtual Reality experience

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THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | ESSENTIALS | FIRST VISIT | ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS www.wheretraveler.com 41

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Sherlock Holmes Museum

The Wallace Collection

The Courtauld Gallery

Famous address dedicated to the fictional detective, where he lived with his friend and colleague Dr Watson from 1881 to 1904. The Victorian house has been maintained exactly as described in author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s thrilling stories, including its first-floor study overlooking Baker Street. Daily 9.30am-6pm.

Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk.

221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. A3.

Station: Baker Street.

The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Paintings include Fragonard’s 18th-century masterpiece The Swing, plus Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

See an important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House. To 15 Apr: Antoine Caron: Drawing for Catherine de’ Medici. Bringing together a collection of drawings executed by Caron in the 14th century for the Queen of France. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526.

E8. Station: Embankment.

Wellcome Collection

Dulwich Picture Gallery

Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of fascinating artefacts This 19th-century townhouse relating to health and the body. and library was owned by the Includes permanent exhibitions distinguished architect Sir John Medicine Now and Medicine Man. Soane, which he left to the nation The Queen opened To 8 Apr: Ayurvedic Man: Encounters in 1837 and has been untouched the Barbican in 1982, with Indian Medicine. Named after since. It houses a gem of his declaring it ‘one of the an 18th-century painting in the collection which he amassed from modern wonders museum’s collection, this exhibition around the world, plus his own of the world’ explores the movement of medical architectural drawings (view by knowledge across the continents. appointment) and Hogarth’s satirical From 8 Mar: Somewhere in Between. artworks. Please check for tours and late-night opening events. Wed-Sun & bank hols, 10am-5pm. Exploring ideas that are vital to human life, through four immersive collaborations between artists and Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn scientists (p. 38). Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8.

Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free.

Station: Holborn. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, Somerset House NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

This 18th-century neo-classical building on the Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Thames houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Museum & Tours Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants.

At the venue of the famous championships, To 22 Apr: Eloise Hawser: By the Deep, by the Mark. the museum’s displays range from old trophies Through sculptures, audiovisual displays, medical hardware and archival materials, this installation and rackets to tennis kits from recent champions, presents various attempts over the years to reclaim plus touchscreens to watch past greats in action. the Thames for leisure purposes. Galleries Wed-Fri Look out, too, for the ‘ghost’ of John McEnroe, 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; and the virtual reality 360-degree experience. charges for special exhibitions. www.somerset To 4 Mar: On Air: Wimbledon and house.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. the BBC 1927-2017. Exhibition to celebrate BBC’s E8. Station: Temple. radio and TV live broadcasting of Championships for 90 years, displaying old TV cameras, posters and Twinings Museum programmes. Tours of the grounds include Centre The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a Court. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum: adult £13; child £8. mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year Museum & Tour: adult £25; child £15. One free child history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the with every full-price adult ticket. www.wimbledon. original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map.

Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings.

Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a short walk. co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511.

D9. Station: Temple.

V&A Museum of Childhood Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century, plus Rachel Whiteread’s celebrated artwork, Place (Village). Admission free. Daily 10am-5.45pm.

Admission free. www.vam.ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map.

Station: Bethnal Green.

Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics from around the world. To 8 Apr: Winnie-the-Pooh: Exploring a Classic. Telling the story of AA Milne’s honey-loving creation through sketches, letters, photographs, cartoons, ceramics and fashion.

To 17 Jun: Ocean Liners: Speed and Style. Paying tribute to the golden age of the cruise liner, including period fashion and art, as well as a decorative wooden panel rescued from the Titanic.

Daily 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam. ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

GALLERIES

Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Art Gallery and The Curve. To 20 May: Yto Barrada: Agadir. The Moroccan artist displays photography, film and more on the theme of human resistance (The Curve). To 27 May: Another Kind of Life: Photography on the Margins.

A collection of work from 20 photographers, exploring communities from around the world who live on the edges of society (Art Gallery).

Barbican Centre Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 11am-11pm. Art Gallery Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur-Fri 10am-10pm.

Check for prices. www.barbican.org.uk.

Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141.

D10. Station: Barbican.

England’s first public art gallery, designed by Sir John Soane and founded in 1811, holds a great collection of Old Masters. To 7 May: David Milne: Modern Painting. The first major exhibition about the Canadian painter. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adult £8; child free; charges for special exhibitions. www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk.

Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5254. Off map.

Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich.

Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces.

It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). To 2 Apr: Nature Morte. How the 16th-century tradition of still life meets modern art. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk.

Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 0207332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

Hayward Gallery Reopened after a major refurbishment, the gallery is home to regular, contemporary exhibitions.

The newly developed pyramid skylights enable a light-filled space. To 22 Apr: Andreas Gursky.

A retrospective of the German photographer.

Check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre. co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works

by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. To 7 May: Drawn in Colour: Degas from the Burrell. Stunning paintings, pastels and drawings.

Daily 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery One of the nation’s most prominent galleries, with works depicting famous British people in paintings, drawings and photographs.

From 1 Mar: Victorian Giants: The Birth of Art Photography. Discover the work of a group of 17th-century artists, who were among the first to approach photography with a creative eye (p. 40). Daily 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Fri eve events). Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.npg. org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 0207312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

See treasures at the V&A’s Ocean Liners: Speed and Style

DUKE AND DUCHESS OF WINDSOR’S LUGGAGE © MIOTTEL MUSEUM, BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA. PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PEABODY ESSEX MUSEUM, SALEM, MASSACHUSETTS

Sir John Soane’s Museum

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The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, with several temporary exhibitions. To 3 Jun: Deutsche Börse Photography Foundation Prize 2018.

Displaying the work of the four artists shortlisted in this competition. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am8pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4; child free. www.thephotographersgallery. org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Queen’s Gallery This gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions. To 13 May: Charles II: Art & Power. Exhibition exploring the court of the Restoration monarch and the role of the arts in the re-establishment of the Stuarts, continuing the story begun by the Charles I exhibition at the Royal Academy. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Closed 30 Mar. Adult £11; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org. uk/visit/the-queens-gallery-buckingham-palace.

Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301.

F7. Station: Green Park.

Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with RA Collection works in all media. To 15 Apr: Charles I: King and Collector. Discover the legendary art collection of Charles I. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk.

6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 0207300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Saatchi Gallery Contemporary art in a renovated Georgian building.

All exhibitions are temporary, and usually free.

To 25 Mar: Philip Pearlstein: Paintings 1990-2017. A presentation of works by the 93-yearold American artist. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchigallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Southbank Centre This sprawling arts centre is home to the Royal Festival Hall, Queen Elizabeth Hall and the Hayward Gallery. To 29 Apr: ABBA: Super Troupers.

An exhibition dedicated to the Swedish band, featuring stage costumes, handwritten lyrics and musical instruments. Please check the Southbank Centre’s website for the full programme, as well as times and ticket prices. www.southbankcentre. co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 to today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 7 May: Impressionists in London – French Artists in Exile. How the artists who fled the Franco-Prussian war coped with life and the art scene in London. To 27 Aug: All Too Human: Bacon, Freud and a Century of Life Painting.

Celebrating painters living in Britain who depicted human figures. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk.

Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8.

Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern International modern art in a former power station.

From 8 Mar: Picasso 1932 – Love, Fame, Tragedy.

A look at one of the most dramatic years of Picasso’s life (p. 36). To 2 Apr: Modigliani. Retrospective of the artist’s portraits. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark. www.wheretraveler.com 43

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Adrienne Warren with Tina Turner

Proud Tina ‘London is a place that means so much to me; it’s had such a big impact on my music and my life. Returning now to tell my full story, in the city I love, feels like an important chapter,’ says Tina Turner as a musical about her life opens at the Aldwych Theatre.

Tina: The Tina Turner Musical (from 21 Mar) tells the story of Anna Mae Bullock, a farmgirl from Tennessee who went on to become a worldwide soul sensation. Bullock began singing with Ike Turner’s band, Kings of Rhythm, before transforming into Tina Turner and hitting the big time in 1960 as a member of the Ike & Tina Turner Revue.

After having a son with the band’s saxophonist, Raymond Hill, Tina ended up marrying Ike – an abusive cocaine user who adopted Tina’s son and had a child with her.

But despite a string of hits,

Tina was unhappy and attempted suicide in 1968, before divorcing Ike in 1978 – which was depicted in the 1993 film What’s Love Got to Do with It? starring Angela Bassett.

But now, the stage show – created in partnership with the star – gives you the chance to hear her greatest hits live on stage once more, including What’s Love Got to Do With It? – which won four Grammy Awards – as well as River Deep – Mountain High, A Fool in Love and, of course, the classic song Simply the Best.

Along the way, the singer has amassed numerous famous fans ranging from George W Bush to Beyoncé and Oprah Winfrey – plus, of course, millions more around the world.

Written by Katori Hall, Frank Ketelaar and Kees Prins, and directed by Phyllida Lloyd (who directed the film Mamma Mia!), this musical sees the Tony Awardnominee Adrienne Warren (Broadway’s Dreamgirls)

take the title role, which she shares with Jenny Fitzpatrick (BBC TV’s EastEnders).

The American singer Warren says: ‘Growing up watching Tina, I knew how to shake my hips before I could tie my shoes. I’m a Tina Turner fan first and I’m elated, honoured and humbled to be given this opportunity.

Meeting and working with Tina will always be one of the greatest moments of my life.’

Kobna Holdbrook-Smith, meanwhile, stars as the late Ike Turner. Holdbrook-Smith previously starred alongside Benedict Cumberbatch in Hamlet at the Barbican, in last year’s Paddington 2 and in the upcoming film Mary Poppins.

The stars are supported by TV and West End regular Madeline Appiah playing Tina’s mother Zelma Bullock; Natey Jones playing Tina’s father Richard and her boyfriend Raymond; Lorna Gayle as Tina’s grandmother, GG; Aisha Jawando as Tina’s sister Alline, and Kit Esuruoso as Tina’s son Craig.

No doubt they’ll all be great – but it’s Warren who will be ‘simply the best’ in the upcoming show.

For full listing, turn to p. 48

ADRIENNE WARREN AND TINA TURNER © CRAIG SUGDEN; POSTER COURTESY OF ALDWYCH THEATRE

A new musical based on the life of the singer Tina Turner is coming to London. Sarah Riches finds out more

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 72-73. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This West End hit has tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me, with lyrics

by Tim Rice, and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£149.50. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire follows two hapless church missionaries in Uganda. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£202.25. www.bookof mormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Dreamgirls Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Effie White in this musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£175. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Everybody’s Talking about Jamie This feel-good new musical is set on a council estate in Sheffield, telling the story of 16-year-old Jamie and how he overcomes bullies and prejudice.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk.

Apollo Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Exorcist To 10 Mar: The stage version of the cult classic horror story, which was a 1970s film. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£75. www. phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

42nd Street This romantic comedy follows a bossy director as he stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression. Peggy is stuck in the chorus line, but when the leading lady (Sheena Easton) is injured, Peggy has her shot at stardom. Check for times.

Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk.

Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Girl from the North Country

Matilda the Musical

To 24 Mar: Bob Dylan’s songs

tell the story of a Minnesota town in 1934 as a community living on a knife-edge huddles together in a guesthouse. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £54.75-£109.75. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8.

Station: Leicester Square.

Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers.

Please check for times. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Motown the Musical

Feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which Hamilton the musical launched the careers of legends has been awarded many including Diana Ross and Marvin prizes, including Gaye. Check for times and prices. a Grammy Award, www.motownthemusical.co.uk.

Pulitzer Prize and Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury 11 Tony Awards Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399.

D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Hamilton

Award-winning musical, which is sung and rapped, about the life of American Founding Father, Alexander Hamilton. Its Broadway version won many awards. Please check for times, prices and how to get returns. www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk. Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138.

E7. Station: Victoria.

Kinky Boots The new owner of a shoe factory reinvigorates the business by making knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Check for times. Tickets £42.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm.

Tickets £40.50-£152.50. www.thelionking.co.uk.

Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island and all their best-loved hits. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm.

Tickets £27.25-£102.25. www.mamma-mia.com.

Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115.

E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Ovo To 4 Mar: Cirque du Soleil performs its insect-themed show, with acrobatic creepy crawlies. Please check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212.

F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Please check for times. Tickets £24.80-£175. www.the phantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Pippin To 24 Mar: Vaudeville, romance and comedy. Check for times and prices. www.southwark playhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234.

Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical about a musician who tries to teach his young students to be into rock stars. Mon & Wed-Sun; check for times.

Tickets £15-£129.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical. com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Strictly Ballroom the Musical From 31 Mar: Will Young stars in this hit Baz Luhrmann musical. Please check for times.

Tickets £31.30-£111.90. www.piccadillytheatre.org.

Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

It is a Saturday night in 1956. In South London’s Elephant and Castle, Teddy and Josie are raging against the austerity of post-Blitz Britain.

The teenagers have no money and someone is out to get them, but they just want to have fun. Teddy at The Vaults (from 29 Mar) was first staged at the Southwark Playhouse last year and received rave reviews.

It features an original score plus 1950s hits performed by Johnny Valentine and the Broken Hearts. Part play with prose and poetry, part gig, expect Elvis-style crooning that will leave you itching to dance.

If you’re after a taste of London in the Fifties, this is it.

The Vaults, Launcelot St, SE1 7AD. T: 020-7401 9603. www.thevaults. london. F8. Station: Waterloo

TEDDY © SCOTT RYLANDER

Teenage dreams

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ENTERTAINMENT The Great Wave

All’s Well That Ends Well To 3 Mar: William Shakespeare’s drama of one woman on a mission, set in a decaying world where kings are dying and wars are brewing. Please check for times. £10-£62. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Sam Wanamaker Playhouse, New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Amadeus Michael Longhurst’s acclaimed production of Peter Shaffer’s play about a young Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart features live orchestral accompaniment by Southbank Sinfonia. Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre. org.uk. National Theatre, Upper Ground, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Beginning

Waves of emotion How do you stage a tsunami? The Great Wave at the National Theatre (from 10 Mar) has taken on the challenge, telling the heartbreaking story of a girl swept out to sea. The show, written by Francis Turnly, who is of Japanese and Northern Irish descent, is set in Japan and North Korea and sees teenage sisters Hanako and Reiko caught up in a storm on a Japanese beach. Reiko survives while Hanako is lost at sea – or is she?

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s life and career, with all his best-loved hits including Off the Wall, Billie Jean, Rock with You and I Want You Back. Please check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tina: The Tina Turner Musical From 21 Mar: A new musical based on the life of Tina Turner (p. 44). Please check for times.

Tickets £10-£69.50. www.tinathemusical.com.

Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.

Wicked The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz, with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £21.75-£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001.

F7. Station: Victoria.

Young Frankenstein Legendary filmmaker and comedian Mel Brooks brings this classic monster musical comedy to life, adapted from his 1974 film. Please check for times and prices. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

To 24 Mar: A tender and funny play by David Eldridge about a budding romance.

Please check for times. Tickets £18-£69.50. www.theambassadorstheatre.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405.

D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Birthday Party In Harold Pinter’s drama, Stanley is the only lodger at a seaside boarding house, when the arrival of strangers disrupts a birthday party. Starring Zoë Wanamaker. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £17.85-£148.75. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk.

Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Comedy about a Bank Robbery Comedy about six crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Check for times. Tickets £11.25-£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Fanny & Alexander In glamorous 1900s Sweden, siblings Fanny and Alexander are shocked when their widowed mother marries the local bishop. Please check for times. Tickets £12-£65. www.oldvictheatre.com.

The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628.

F9. Station: Waterloo.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Check for times. Tickets £67.50-£79.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Ferryman

From 10 Mar: A premiere about a daughter who is swept out to sea during a tsunami. Please check for times. Tickets £25-£40. www.national theatre.org.uk. National Theatre, Upper Ground, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8.

Station: Waterloo.

The Grinning Man A magical reimagining of the classic novel by Victor Hugo (Les Misérables). Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com. Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8.

Station: Charing Cross.

Harold and Maude To 31 Mar: A dark comedy told through the eyes of a self-destructive young man and an aged bohemian. Please check for times.

Tickets £17.50-£42.50. www.charingcrosstheatre. co.uk. Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child In this adaptation of JK Rowling’s new story, father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic and his son deals with his legacy. Check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com.

Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Inheritance From 2 Mar: A generation after the worst of the AIDS crisis, what is it like to be a young gay man living in New York? Stephen Daldry directs this heartbreaker – a world premiere in two parts by New York playwright Matthew Lopez. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£38. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7452 3000. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Lady Windermere’s Fan In Oscar Wilde’s famous comedy of manners, Lady Windermere’s birthday party is disrupted by her friend. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£75. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814.

E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.

The Little Match Girl From 24 Mar: A destitute heroine struggles to survive, striking matches to keep warm in this play inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s tale.

Expect music, puppetry and magic. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£62. www.shakespeares globe.com. Sam Wanamaker Playhouse, New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10.

Station: Blackfriars.

Long Day’s Journey into Night

This play, set in 1912, sees the Tyrones test the bonds of a family. Starring Jeremy Irons.

Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk.

Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120.

E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Harry Potter and

Jez Butterworth’s powerful play, directed

by Sam Mendes, is set in Northern Ireland in 1981. Mon-Sat 7pm; Wed & Sat 1.30pm. Tickets £12-£89.50. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk.

Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, the Cursed Child has W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. won nine Laurence Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Olivier Awards

Frozen A psychological thriller about a mother whose child goes missing, starring Suranne Jones (TV’s Doctor Foster). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. £15-£85. www.trh.co.uk. Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Mary Stuart

Juliet Stevenson and Lia Williams play the parts of both Elizabeth I and Mary Stuart in this political tragedy.

At the start of the play, they toss a coin to decide which role they will take on. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2pm. Tickets £10-£95. www.duke ofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8.

Station: Leicester Square.

THE GREAT WAVE COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL THEATRE

PLAYS

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HHHH “A GHOST PLAY GUARANTEED TO SEND SHIVERS DOWN THE SPINE” NEIL NORMAN, DAILY EXPRESS 2018

SUSAN HILL’S

ADAPTED BY

STEPHEN MALLATRATT

FORTUNE THEATRE

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ENTERTAINMENT

A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s classic whodunnit, which is also the world’s longest-running show. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515.

D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Network To 24 Mar: News anchorman Howard Beale’s ratings have plummeted but improve when he unravels live on air in his final broadcast, turning him into the biggest thing on TV. Starring Bryan Cranston (Breaking Bad). Please check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre. org.uk. National Theatre, Upper Ground, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about an amateur dramatics society staging a murder mystery, where nothing goes to plan. Please check for times. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com.

Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Summer and Smoke Tennessee Williams’ play is set in the heat of summer, where under the wings of an angel, Alma meets John and her world turns upside down in the search for salvation. Please check for times and prices. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404.

Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Witness for the Prosecution To 11 Mar: A play based on Agatha Christie’s courtroom drama, staged in a former courtroom. It follows Leonard Vole, who is accused of murdering a widow to inherit her wealth. Please check for times. Tickets from £10-£79. www.witness countyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo.

The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Please check for times. Tickets £21.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack. com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 11 & 15 Mar: London Symphony Orchestra (Schumann). 11 Mar: The English Concert (Handel).

21-27 Mar: Guildhall School Spring 2017 Opera Scenes. 25 Mar: London Symphony Orchestra (Debussy). 28 Mar: Britten Sinfonia – Easter Voices.

Please check for times and prices. www.barbican. org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 0207638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Cadogan Hall 4 Mar: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra – Myths and Fairytales. 10 Mar: Thames Philharmonic Choir. 21 Mar:

Choir of King’s College, Cambridge – Stabat Mater.

7.30pm. Tickets £12-£28. www.cadoganhall.com.

5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500.

G6. Station: Sloane Square.

King’s Place 1 Mar: Orchestra of the Age of Enlightenment (Bach, Handel). 18 Mar: Orchestra of the Age

of Enlightenment – We are Made of Star Stuff. www.kingsplace.co.uk. 90 York Way, N1 9AG. T: 020-7520 1490. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.

Dangerously in love ‘La Traviata is the opera for a first-time operagoer – it is the most dynamic, quickmoving, dramatic story in opera. It has popular, highly accessible music,’ says the English National Opera’s new artistic director, Daniel Kramer. The opera, on stage at the London Coliseum (from 16 Mar; p. 51), sees Leo McFall conduct the ENO chorus and orchestra. The opera begins at a party thrown by courtesan Violetta (soprano Claudia Boyle) to celebrate her recovery from illness. She meets and falls in love with Alfredo Germont (tenor Lukhanyo Moyake). Alfredo’s aristocratic father Georgio believes that Violetta’s reputation will jeopardise a family engagement, and demands Violetta leaves.

What will Violetta risk for love?

Royal Albert Hall 15-18 Mar: Classical Spectacular. 30 Mar: Messiah on

Good Friday. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212.

G4. South Kensington.

Royal Festival Hall 3 Mar: London Philharmonic Orchestra: Diana Damrau sings Strauss. 6 Mar: The Bach Choir – Darkness to Light. 15 Mar: BBC Concert Orchestra – Sondheim on Sondheim. 16 Mar: Beethoven’s Ninth. 17 Mar: London Philharmonic Orchestra: Trifonov plays Tchaikovsky. 25 Mar: Philharmonia Orchestra – Brahms Requiem. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Piccadilly This beautiful church built in 1676 has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of concerts and recitals.

1 Mar: Brandemburg Sinfonia – Mozart Requiem

by Candlelight. 2 Mar: Sounds of St Martin’s – Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. 3 Mar: Feinstein Ensemble – Baroque Extravaganza by Candlelight. 22 Mar: Trafalgar Sinfonia – Bach, Handel, Vivaldi by Candlelight. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Wigmore Hall

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk music. 12 Mar: A Night of Neo Soul. 13 Mar: Kenny Thomas. 19 Mar: The Legend of William Onyeabor.

25 Mar: A Night of Marvin Gaye. Classics with a live band. 7pm. Tickets £12-£16. www.thejazzcafe london.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 3 Mar: Paul Weller.

7 Mar: Elbow. 14 Mar: Paloma Faith. 27 Mar: Thirty Seconds to Mars. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club 4 Mar: Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Orchestra. 7-10 Mar: Kyle Eastwood Band. 12-14 Mar: Chris Potter’s Underground. 22-24 Mar: James Taylor Quartet.

26-31 Mar: Steve Gadd Band. Please check

for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk.

47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Royal Albert Hall 7 Mar: Morrissey. 14 Mar: Best of Broadway.

24 Mar: Kasabian. Please check for times and

prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212.

F4. Station: South Kensington.

1 Mar: Michelangelo Quarter (Mozart, Brahms).

4 Mar: Joshua Bell (Mozart, Schubert). 7 Mar: Vienna Pianno Trio (Haydn, Schumann). 18 Mar:

DANCE

Gautier Capuçon (Debussy, Massenet, Fauré).

20 Mar: Nash Ensemble (Ravel, Debussy, Fauré).

7.30pm. Tickets £15-£38. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk.

36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6.

Station: Bond Street.

15-17 Mar: Double Bill: Ballet Black. Cassa

Barbican Pancho’s Ballet Black celebrates dancers of black and Asian descent. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

LA TRAVIATA © SANDRA THEN

The Mousetrap

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London Coliseum Home to the English National Opera. Productions are sung in English. From 1 Mar: Giselle. Haunting story choreographed by Akram Khan. Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE

The Peacock To 17 Mar: Tango After Dark. Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com.

The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.

Royal Opera House To 21 Mar: The Winter’s Tale. William Shakespeare’s tale of love and loss becomes compelling dance drama in Christopher Wheeldon’s ballet adaptation. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sadler’s Wells 26-28 Mar: Sutra. Performance of kung fu kicks by monks from the Shaolin monastery in China.

The set of 21 wooden boxes is designed by sculptor Antony Gormley. Check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

Wilton’s Music Hall To 17 Mar: Macbeth. Dance theatre adaptation of William Shakespeare’s tragedy about the darkest sides of human nature. Check for times and prices. www.wiltons.org.uk. Wilton’s Music Hall, 1 Graces Alley (pedestrian access only), E1 8JB. T: 020-7702 2789. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

OPERA London Coliseum From 16 Mar: La Traviata. Tragic love story played out against the hypocrisy of upper-class society (p. 50). Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House To 16 Mar: Carmen. Barrie Kosky directs Bizet’s much-loved opera, with two casts led by Anna Goryachova and Gaëlle Arquez in the title role. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES Beginners From 20 Mar: Three families are trapped in a waterlogged holiday cottage. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£18. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. www.unicorn theatre.com. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

Junk From 16 Mar: This puppetry production brings your milk bottles, newspapers and egg boxes to life. Please check for times. Adult £13.50; child £11.50. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

My First Ballet: Swan Lake From 29 Mar: Shortened version of Tchaikovsky’s music, with a narrator. Check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Peacock Theatre, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222.

D8. Station: Holborn.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

A knockout experience London has a wealth of options for lovers of luxury, from opulent five-star hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants to celebrity hangouts and high-end stores. Yet how are designers and artists driving the future of luxury? The answer is – radically. According to Selfridges’ new campaign, Radical Luxury: An Exploration, the key themes it is exploring is the way in which luxury is

WL MAR SHOPPING.indd 52

transient, one-of-a-kind, transformative and timeless.

As part of Selfridges’ timely investigation into what luxury means today – and what it might mean tomorrow – the department store has been speaking to some of the world’s leading artists. As a result, it has seen various patterns and themes emerge.

Kicking off the experiment is Michèle Lamy.

Michèle, who trained as a defence lawyer and ran the cult restaurant and cabaret club Les Deux Cafés, is making herself at home in Selfridges’ Corner Shop in Lamyland. There will also be a series of designer takeovers at the store until May, in which shoppers can discover the stories, ideas and influences behind an array of cult brands.

Michèle fuses two of her interests – boxing and art.

Using boxing as a metaphor for exploring wider cultural, spiritual and social questions, Michèle is giving

The Corner Shop a radical makeover with exclusive activewear and boxing merchandise designed in collaboration with artists and innovative designers. Brands available in the department include Versace, Off-White, Stephen Jones, Nike and, of course, Michèle’s husband Rick Owens’ line.

What’s more, you can head to the boxing ring in UltraLounge to try your hand at the sport. The boxing ring will play host to specially curated, boxing-inspired classes.

Full-body strength and conditioning training will be paired with high-energy music in the classes, which are suitable for beginners. There are also events with boxers such as Anthony Joshua and Nicola Adams – sessions can be booked online.

‘Boxing is fascinating… it’s more than a sport, it’s a state of mind. It’s a noble art,’ Michèle believes. So, make like a modern muse and adorn yourself in decadence while taking in the fantastical installations at Selfridges to feel inspired and, more importantly, luxurious.

For full listing, turn to p. 53

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF SELFRIDGES

What is luxury? As Selfridges launches its new campaign that explores luxury, Flora Neighbour finds out how the store has mixed boxing and art in a unique collaboration with Michèle Lamy

13/02/2018 11:01

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall.

Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

M&M’s World

A spectacular Victorian covered market in the City that dates back to the 14th century and is situated in what was the centre of Roman London.

Mon-Fri 11am-5pm. www.leadenhallmarket.co.uk.

Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. D11. Station: Monument.

Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village

One of the world’s biggest toy shops.

Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed, Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com.

Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

Harrods

Westfield London

Hamleys

Edwardian food and meat halls, men’s, women’s and children’s fashion departments, cosmetics, spa, accessories, bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com.

87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234.

F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Liberty Famous for its prints, which are on scarves and notebooks. Designer fashion for men and women scores highly here, too. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234.

D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods.

Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

John Lewis Covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed; Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Marks & Spencer Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections (multiple locations around London). Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com.

458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954.

D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Selfridges FUJI MEIBO BINOCULARS © JEROEN MARKIES ART DECO

Leadenhall Market

The finest products in beauty and fashion (p. 52).

Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

LUXURY ARCADES Burlington Arcade Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade, designed by the architect Samuel Ware for Lord George Cavendish, contains a number of specialist shops. Each morning it opens with a gate ceremony. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. www.burlingtonarcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, 51 Piccadilly, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This huge mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end fashion labels, plus a range of food outlets and KidZania (p. 28), an indoor city run by children. www.westfield.com/ london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300.

Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created

by Alex Monroe, in a shop that’s close to the palace. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royalcollection shop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Cath Kidston Home to stylish accessories with London prints, plus a great collection of childrenswear. www.cathkidston.com. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

John Bell & Croyden This well-being emporium is more than 200 years old and is the pharmacy to the Queen. It offers

Westfield Stratford City Massive mall, one of Europe’s largest, with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino, plus a Champagne bar. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity.

2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300.

Off map. Station: Stratford.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris This esteemed British jewellery brand was established in 1962. Located in New Bond Street, it offers beautiful couture jewellery, hand-crafted to the highest standards using only the finest stones to ensure each unique piece is a work of art. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.

Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs.

Great for men and women’s jewellery, plus an engraving service. www.linksoflondon.com.

491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371.

D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora Find jewellery and gifts, including Pandora’s much-loved charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Tiffany & Co This world-renowned jeweller stocks exquisite designer gems (multiple locations around London). www.tiffany.com. The Courtyard, Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ. T: 020-7409 2790.

D10. Station: Bank.

KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores.

E7. Station: Leicester Square.

A fair to remember Founded 100 years ago, BADA is the leading association for fine art and antiques. Its annual art fair has been running for more than 25 years, and sees exhibitors from 100 of the UK’s finest dealers showcasing everything from a portrait of Samuel Pepys to a pair of marine binoculars (above). Each object has been vetted for its quality, which means you can pick up a unique souvenir.

Duke of York Square, King’s Rd, SW3 4LY. T: 020-7589 6108. www.badafair.com. Off map.

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UGG Australia RE of the forest, the range includes Prada Hollister R E Rolex ET Coach ET Penhaligon’s GAP Leviev Uniqlo a cologne, body wash, body cream Omega Saint Laurent WIGMORE STR Wolford Hunter Daks E E Tcandles. The and, most famously, Gucci La Perla Barbour products come in oak and hazelnut Whittard of Chelsea Marina Rinaldi The Highlands Dolce & Gabbana PICCADILLY Vertu with basil and neroli, and oak and Kiehl’s Alexander McQueen CIRCUS GREEN PARK Barbour Cartier Tod’s (100yards) redcurrant with blackberry and bay.

Dover St International Y L L I De Beers D A Mappin & Webb C Market PIC H E W1B N R I E T T4EZ. Fortnum A PLACE 101 Regent St, Tumi & Mason Osprey London T: 0370-192 5021.

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Dover Street Market fashion mall, Dover Street Market stocks clothing, accessories and shoes from designer brands. Browse concessions from Paul Smith, Céline, Dior and Gucci, which feel like walk-in wardrobes.

18-22 Haymarket, SW1Y 4DG. T: 020-7518 0680. www.doverstreetmarket.com

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SHOPPING emergency prescriptions and vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Please check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London Glassblowing Pick up a souvenir and then try glassblowing yourself with a session at the UK’s foremost studio and gallery for contemporary glass art. www.london glassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Prestat One of London’s oldest chocolate shops, selling chocolate, truffles and more. Please check for times. www.prestat.co.uk. 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 8555. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Twinings Trading since 1706, you will find a variety of teas and infusions here, plus a small museum. MonFri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. The shop’s curated collection of Londoninspired prints, gifts and souvenirs helps support 250 London-based artists, designers and makers.

Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.webuilt-thiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Whisky Exchange

TOP IMAGE COURTESY OF THE IDEAL HOME SHOW; CARNABY STREET © ISTOCK; FEMALE SHOPPER COURTESY OF WESTFIELD

This specialist retailer of fine whiskies and spirits also has a wide range of Champagnes and beers. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Home improvements Home is where the heart is, as the saying goes. The Ideal Home Show at Olympia London (from 17 Mar) is not just for those who want to give their home a complete refurbishment – there are exhibitors showcasing everything from gadgets to gardening accessories. Celebrities giving expert advice include Phil Spencer, Martin Lewis and Monica Galetti, while there’s delicious street food on offer at the Eat & Drink Festival.

Hammersmith Rd, W14 8UX. T: 0844-858 6793. www.idealhomeshow.co.uk.

Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE UK

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TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping.

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DINING | THE GUIDE

A passage to India Sarah Riches digs into new restaurants serving regional dishes and family recipes for a taste of real Indian cuisine They say that the best Indian food to be found outside India is in London and, as five new restaurants bring the taste of authentic Indian food to the capital, we certainly think that’s true.

Indian Accent is already a hit in Delhi and New York – the Indian branch is regularly voted one of the world’s best restaurants – so the London outpost in Mayfair is set to be a success.

The design team behind Cinnamon Bazaar and Bombay Brasserie has created a light, minimalist interior featuring brass, marble, pearl and plaster, which contrasts with the dimly lit lobby. The lower ground floor is ideal for private dining.

Award-winning chef Manish Mehrotra’s menu features intricate and unusual dishes; to get a real taste of his innovative cooking, opt for the tasting menu. Highlights include earthy Kashmiri morels with walnut powder and Parmesan papad, as well as sweet meetha achaar ribs which fall off the bone and are topped with strips of sharp, sun-dried mango and onion seeds (16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW).

Meanwhile, Rohit Ghai, executive chef at Michelin-starred Jamavar in Mayfair, has

opened Bombay Bustle off Regent Street. Ghai says: ‘Bombay Bustle captures the essence of Mumbai – our love of home comforts and our rapid pace of life, both exisiting side by side.’

The restaurant is inspired by dabbawalas, the people who deliver ‘dabbas’ – tiered tins of home-cooked lunches – to workers, particularly in Mumbai. The tins are identified by colourful symbols and are delivered by trains, bikes and handcarts. Co-founder Samyukta Nair adds: ‘In Mumbai – a complex, bustling metropolis – the dabbawalas are a constant, bridging the distance between work and home with near-clockwork precision, and we bring the same ethos to London.’

Just like dabbawalas, Ghai’s menu gives diners the chance to try his family recipes, which have been passed down by his mother.

The ground-floor dining room resembles an old first-class railway coach, with a pewter bar and leather banquettes. The lower ground floor has cut-glass screens, a timber-panelled ceiling, dabbas and booths similar to waiting rooms in Indian railway stations (29 Maddox St, W1S 2PA).

Elsewhere, Dishoom’s fifth London site has opened in Kensington. Its interior has classic

Art Deco features including 1940s chandeliers and a huge clock sourced from Mumbai. Try its signature dish: South Indian mutton pepper fry (4 Derry St, W8 5SE).

Meanwhile, Dhaba@49 in Maida Vale, near Little Venice, features a real bicycle and a painting of an Indian bus decorated with peacocks, elephants and flowers, which are also on the menu. Both are reminders that the restaurant is inspired by the roadside cafés of North India – as is the menu.

The choices include a selection of chaat, a street snack made with puffed rice, chickpeas or potato cubes topped with yoghurt and tamarind. Other highlights include ragra tikki, another street dish made with potato, peas and chutney, and the Northern Indian dish keema Rajputani, or minced lamb in a creamy sauce (49 Chippenham Rd, W9 2AH).

Looking ahead, Brigadiers is set to open in Bloomberg Arcade in spring. The team behind renowned restaurants Trishna, Gymkhana, Hoppers and Motu Indian Kitchen will serve classic Indian barbecue dishes in a space inspired by a traditional Indian Army mess (1-5 Bloomberg Arcade, EC4N 8AR).

RESTAURANT FAÇADE COURTESY OF INDIAN ACCENT; MIXED DISHES COURTESY OF BOMBAY BUSTLE; LAMB DISH COURTESY OF DISHOOM KENSINGTON

Clockwise from this image: Indian Accent; selection of dishes at Bombay Bustle; lamb chops and other dishes at Dishoom Kensington

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting.

Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music.

73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 72-73

Fera at Claridge’s Creative British dishes made from local ingredients, served in an Art Deco restaurant. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges.co.uk. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the huge museum’s iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

Holborn Dining Room This smart brasserie adjoining the Rosewood hotel serves British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborndiningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

Indigo British gluten-free and dairy-free dishes. ££-£££.

Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych hotel, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Magpie

Mayfair haunt The Square has reopened following a major renovation inspired by local art galleries. The restaurant, which has two Michelin stars, now has cement walls, square glass blocks instead of windows and new abstract canvases. The minimalist décor certainly makes the plates pop. Executive chef Clément Leroy, who previously worked at Guy Savoy’s eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris, has created vibrant dishes such as cured Cornish mackerel in a pink radish sauce; Scottish langoustine with hibiscus and citrus; and hand-picked Devon crab with beetroot and cardamom.

6-10 Bruton St, W1J 6PU. T: 020-7495 7100. www.squarerestaurant.com. E6.

Station: Green Park

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Gaucho Succulent Argentine steaks, plus a wine bar, masterclasses and entertainment. ££££. Daily L & D. www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR (and branches). T: 020-7734 4040. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman Premium steakhouse serving quality US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in house, plus dishes including whole roasted poussin. £££.

Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodmanrestaurants.com.

26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint, more than 40 years old, has rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere. Enjoy jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

JW Steakhouse Steakhouse offering dry-aged prime beef with a variety of sides and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6.

Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Oblix Sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill on the 32nd floor of The Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Planet Hollywood This huge London branch has burgers, pizzas and cocktails, plus film memorabilia. ££.

Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy diner in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals, and a menu with ribs, wraps and pasta. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.the rainforestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rex Whistler Restaurant Dine on seafood bisque, a Sunday roast or roast partridge, underneath a century-old mural. ££.

Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Searcys St Pancras This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal serves brasserie-style dishes. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8.

Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Butlers Restaurant This elegant restaurant is famed for its roasts served from a carving trolley. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Café in the Crypt Vaulted café under the church serving homely dishes. The Cafe in the Courtyard opens on 26 Mar. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org.

St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Cheneston’s

BRITISH (MODERN)

Intimate fine dining restaurant. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000.

Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Aqua Shard

The English Grill

Contemporary cuisine matches the fantastic views from The Shard’s 32nd floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Caxton Grill Superb steaks cooked on the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes, in a stylish venue. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.

Restaurant serving daily roasts. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace hotel, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy classic British dishes in a pretty dining room. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The

Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370.

E6/7. Station: Green Park.

THE SQUARE DINING ROOM COURTESY OF THE SQUARE

A work of art

Intricate dishes arrive at your table on trolleys, dim-sum style. £££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.magpielondon.com. 10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX. T: 0207287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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WHERE PARTNERSHIP: IN ASSOCIATION WITH AFTERNOONTEA.CO.UK

Time for tea

LONDON EDITION COURTESY OF LONDON EDITION; HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL COURTESY OF HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL; CUTTER AND SQUIDGE COURTESY OF CUTTER AND SQUIDGE; BOTTOM THREE TEA IMAGES COURTESY OF WWW.AFTERNOONTEA.CO.UK

London is famous for its afternoon tea – here’s our round-up of this month’s best. For more information, visit afternoontea.co.uk

THE LONDON EDITION

HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL

CUTTER & SQUIDGE

Don a three-piece suit for Punch Room, a wood-panelled lounge in the London Edition hotel, which has an air of a country manor. Its new Scandal Water menu has five punches and Rare Tea Co teas, paired with dishes including Cornish mackerel tartare with yoghurt and sesame pastry, served with jasmine tea and punch made with silver tip tea and orange flower water.

Salted caramel chocolate tart with citrus tea and rum punch with pepper also feature.

10 Berners St, W1T 3NP. T: 020-7781 0000. www.editionhotels.com/london

Hotel Café Royal’s tearoom was renamed the Oscar Wilde Bar as the playwright was a regular guest. Admire the décor that’s heavy with gold, mirrors and frescoes as a pianist tinkles jazz on a grand piano. The hotel has teamed up with perfumer Diptyque to create an afternoon tea inspired by the brand’s scents.

After tucking into sandwiches and scones, highlights include pickled apple muffin with jasmine pistachio mousse. Try it with Celestine, a black tea flavoured with vanilla and cocoa.

68 Regent St, W1B 4DY. T: 020-7406 3333. www.hotelcaferoyal.com

If the enormous cakes in the window of this Soho café don’t draw you in, then its biskies – biscuit-cookie-cake hybrids filled with jam, buttercream or caramel – will. Opt for the Genie’s Cave afternoon tea (to 31 Mar) and try a 24-carat gold decorated chocolate-andbiscuit biskie downstairs, which is decked out like Aladdin’s cave with a genie’s lamp and magic carpets. Sample sandwiches and scones made with roasted pepper and feta, and sweet treats such as raspberry and rose tart.

20 Brewer St, W1F 0SJ. T: 020-7734 2540. www.cutterandsquidge.com

CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON

MEWS OF MAYFAIR

BLIND SPOT

The Crystal Moon Lounge in Corinthia Hotel London, near Trafalgar Square, is a glamorous affair. It’s flooded with natural light by day and illuminated after dark by a huge Baccarat crystal chandelier. Enjoy sandwiches made with seasonal ingredients and artisanal bread, as well as warm scones and cakes, all served with a glass or two of Laurent-Perrier Champagne.

Or try a bespoke collection of teas from Camellia’s Tea House – a tea sommelier is on hand to answer all of your questions.

10 Whitehall Place, SW1A 2BD. T: 0207321 3150. www.corinthia.com

You’ll find Mews of Mayfair tucked away in an historic courtyard in the heart of Mayfair.

Marco Pierre White designer James Williamson and home designer Lucy Ford developed the interiors, which feature chandeliers and large leather sofas, while the outdoor seating in a cobbled courtyard is ideal on a sunny day.

Pay homage to the age-old, quintessentially British tradition of afternoon tea and indulge in finger sandwiches, fruit and plain scones.

Finish off with tea from the Rare Tea Company.

10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. www.mewsofmayfair.com

Finding Blind Spot is half the fun, as you need to seek out a golden hand-shaped handle hidden behind a boutique tea counter inside St Martin’s Lane hotel. Once you’re inside the Art Deco-style speakeasy bar, snack on quiche Lorraine, crayfish and mango brioche buns and dulce de leche panna cotta with blackberry compote. The tea-infused cocktails, inspired by the British Empire’s tea trade, really hit the spot. The tea is served from 7pm, with music on Wednesdays.

45 St Martins Lane, WC2N 4HX. T: 0207300 5588. www.morganshotelgroup.com

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DINING

Modern restaurant with roast beef, steaks and terrine boards. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophies steakhouse.co.uk. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7NB (and branch). T: 020-7352 0088. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including dim sum. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998.

D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu This contemporary restaurant in Harrods serves delicious dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk.

87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk.

65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988.

E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street Hearty cooking in this brasserie, a former bank, with a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Savini at Criterion Enjoy fine-dining Italian dishes in a neo-Byzantine dining room inside a Grade II-listed building. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.saviniatcriterion.co.uk.

224 Piccadilly, Piccadilly Circus, W1J 9HP. T: 0207930 1459. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Terrace All-day dining from Britain and around the globe in this elegant, light-filled restaurant and bar. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com.

Amba Charing Cross hotel, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Ting The restaurant in The Shard’s Shangri-La hotel serves European dishes with an Asian twist. ££££.

Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/ london. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Home, sweet home Tucked away on a street in South Kensington is Villa Mamas, a family-style restaurant that specialises in traditional dishes from the Gulf. The dining room is cosy and rustic, with the tables packed close together. Start with kaskhe bademjoon – aubergine layered with caramelised onions, whey and walnuts – followed by grilled halibut with pine nuts, or Bahrain’s national dish, chicken pilaf.

Lunch and brunch options are available. Servings are generous, so go hungry!

25 Elystan St, SW3 3NT. T: 020-3297 3799. www.villamamas.com.

Off map. Station: South Kensington

FRENCH

GASTROPUBS

Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester

The Grazing Goat

Innovative food from this Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6.

Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Try seasonal dishes such as lamb rump with tomato fregola in this bright, wood-panelled dining room. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegrazinggoat.co.uk.

6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Brasserie Joël

The Wigmore

This smart hotel brasserie serves French classics.

Every Monday you can bring your own bottle of wine, with no corkage fee. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk.

Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Westminster.

Veeraswamy was opened in 1926 by the grandson of an Indian princess and an English general

FISH AND SEAFOOD J Sheekey Chic and popular seafood spot with an oyster and Champagne bar – it’s great for people watching. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey.co.uk.

28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Poppie’s Traditional fish and chip shop with vintage décor. £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfish andchips.co.uk.

55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW (and branches).

T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Brasserie Zédel

This huge, bustling French brasserie serves excellent value fixed-price menus. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com.

20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Enjoy unusual dishes and bar snacks in a bar with original Art Deco features inside The Langham hotel. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.the-wigmore. co.uk. 15 Langham Place, off Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198.

D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

INDIAN Amaya This Michelin-starred venue serves dishes that are full of exotic twists, cooked in its open-grill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166.

F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Céleste

Benares

Michelin-starred cuisine in a smart dining room. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com.

The Lanesborough hotel, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599.

F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Modern Michelin-starred Indian cuisine from Atul Kochhar, known for his inventive dishes. £££.

Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant. com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Clos Maggiore

Chutney Mary

Exquisite dining room with a pretty, blossom-filled conservatory, serving excellent dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com.

333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8.

Station: Covent Garden.

Take a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant. Try the marinated tandoor lobster. £££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutney mary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

VILLA MAMAS DISHES © CAROL SACHS

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar

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Gaylord This iconic Indian restaurant, which is more than 50 years old, serves North Indian recipes including sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes, as well as thali platters. Save space for kulfi. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

ENJOY THE THALI AT

REAL INDIAN FOOD

Little India This cosy, informal restaurant specialises in traditional Bengali cuisine. The menu’s tandoori section includes vegetarian options such as paneer tikka. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindialondon.com.

32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4.

Station: Gloucester Road.

Masala Zone In this chain of newly refurbished restaurants, enjoy authentic Indian street food, plus the flavour-packed grand thali. ££. Daily L & D. www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches). T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Mint Leaf Contemporary dishes are served in this stylish restaurant; try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mintleaflondon.com.

Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tamarind In this smart Mayfair dining room, you can enjoy Michelin-starred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine such as lobster masala. It also caters for groups of up to 30 people seated. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .COM

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant is Michelinstarred, with an opulent interior. Try the six-hour cooked lamb shank, a selection of street food dishes, and desserts including almond and pineapple halwa tart. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat and fish at this relaxed restaurant and bar, with dishes such as 28 dayaged beef and fried hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish This timeless brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini and Sunday roasts. Try the rib-eye steak and triple-fried chips. ££-£££.

Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 020-7487 3030.

C5. Station: Baker Street.

ITALIAN Cicchetti Lively, all-day dining with regional specialities to share at this sophisticated restaurant, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood. Splashes of yellow leather and lemons bring the Italian sunshine to the streets of London. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden. www.wheretraveler.com 61

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DINING Mayfair Pizza Co Bright restaurant where you can watch the chefs at work in the open-plan kitchen. ££. Daily L & D. www.mayfairpizzaco.com. 4 Lancashire Court, off New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7629 2889. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Rossopomodoro Enjoy authentic Neapolitan street food and pizzas – including gluten-free – in an informal setting. ££. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX (and branches).

T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Verdi – Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in the famous music venue – check for free Friday music. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

MIDDLE EASTERN

SOUTH EAST ASIAN

Momo

Chi Kitchen

Decadent candlelit restaurant with Moroccan décor, serving couscous and tagine dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Pan-Asian cuisine in the department store Debenhams; see the chefs at work in an openplan dining space. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chi kitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Nopi Innovative Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Mango Tree

RIVERSIDE

This elegant fine-dining restaurant offers authentic Thai dishes, such as tom ka. You can also try the grilled Wagyu beef in spicy sauce. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mango tree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Bateaux London

Rosa’s Thai Café

JAPANESE & KOREAN

Enjoy a cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. Booking essential. £££. Daily L & D; Sun jazz with three-course L. www.bateaux london.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

Informal venue serving dishes such as papaya salad and drunken noodles. Daily L & D. ££. www.rosasthai cafe.com. 23a Ganton St, W1F 9BW (and branches).

T: 020-7287 9617. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Benihana

The London Showboat

This popular spot offers a huge range of goodvalue, authentic Thai dishes, including stir-fried beef and massaman curry. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table for a theatrical experience. £££. Daily L & D. www.beni hana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches).

T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Engawa This refined Japanese restaurant has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts for you to choose from. Other dishes include sashimi, sushi and sukiyaki (hot pot). £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Drift down the River Thames while enjoying dinner. Booking essential. ££££. Departs daily from Westminster Pier 7.45pm. www.city cruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British dishes. Opt for the deck menu for a light bite. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk.

Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

Thai Pot

SPANISH El Pirata Choose from a large range of authentic hot and cold tapas in this Mayfair bar-restaurant, including cured meats and fresh seafood. There are good set menus. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata. co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6.

Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this Moorish restaurant; try the wood-roasted chicken with sage labneh. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro. co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 0207833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

VEGETARIAN The Gate This popular veggie restaurant has well-presented dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegaterestaurants.com.

22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches).

T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Mildreds

From east to west The design team behind the Cotswolds’ Soho Farmhouse and Soho House Berlin has transformed the Grade II-listed St Thomas Church into the first global outpost of the Michelin-starred Hong Kong restaurant Duddell’s. While the team has kept the original altar, an open kitchen and a bar that resembles a 1960s Hong Kong tea house has been added. Expect Cantonese favourites such as dim sum, and Peking duck which is carved at your table. The menu also includes almond soft-shell crab, truffle-roasted black cod, and Welsh lamb with shishito pepper and eryngii mushrooms.

St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3957 9932. www.duddells.co.uk. F10.

Station: London Bridge

Tibits Relaxed, buffet-style venue with a choice of salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings, and pay-by-plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Tasty cuisine from all over India. Enjoy dishes such as Mysore dosas, thalis and cashew pakoras – there are also vegan and gluten-free dishes. ££-£££.

Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk.

77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches).

T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

DUDDELL’S DINING ROOM COURTESY OF DUDDELL’S

This informal and much-loved Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes with global flavours. ££.

Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches). T: 020-7494 1634. D7.

Station: Oxford Circus.

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W H E R E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING Mango Tree

Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Having appeared on BBC1’s MasterChef, and mentioned in J K Rowling’s novel The Silkworm as a Thai institution in Belgravia, Mango Tree offers innovative yet classic cuisine of the highest calibre.

Using the finest ingredients sourced from the best suppliers, both locally and abroad, the restaurant serves genuine Thai dishes from each of the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild dishes influenced by the Chinese cooking style of the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south.

El Pirata

46 Grosvernor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria/Hyde Park Corner.

Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ).

Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun.

5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

This image: Waxy O’Connor’s Below: pint of Guinness and a shamrock

The luck of the Irish St Patrick’s Day (17 Mar) commemorates the death of Ireland’s patron saint – St Patrick – which means it’s time to head to an Irish pub.

A new Irish bar-restaurant, Nuala, has opened by Old Street roundabout, bringing whiskey, Guinness, Celtic comfort food and good craic to London just in time for the all-important day. This is the first restaurant for Irish chef Niall Davidson (it’s actually named after his sister), known for his previous roles at Harrods, St John Bread and Wine and Chiltern Firehouse.

The ground-floor restaurant has seating arranged around a firepit that will burn long after diners have eaten. Head chef Colin McSherry, formerly at The Fat Duck and Dinner by Heston, serves dishes made from ingredients sourced from the British Isles, from the Scottish Highlands to Cornwall, cooked over a wood fire; flamed clams in cider, and bone-marrow doughnuts are on the menu.

Peek behind the heavy curtains and follow the staircase – and music – downstairs to a bar. Manager Spencer Large from Barbecoa curates the whiskey menu while head

bartender Lauren Taylor from Hawksmoor Spitalfields is shaking up whiskey cocktails, punch and pulling pints of Guinness.

Squeeze into a snug or pull up a bar stool around a brick fireplace as you enjoy a pint, soaked up by bar snacks such as potted smokie or scampi-fried quail eggs and coffee ham (70-74 City Rd, EC1 2BJ).

Winding staircases and passageways create the feeling of a labyrinth at Waxy O’Connor’s (p. 65), a Soho institution spread over six floors. Its Gothic interior may have pews, a pulpit, stained-glass windows and patterned floor tiles, but the atmosphere is anything but church-like.

Sports fans come to watch hurling, football and rugby (17 Mar also sees the Ireland v England Six Nations match), and listen to live music (Wed-Sun).

There’s a hearty bar menu here, and also at the smaller, more relaxed Waxy’s Little Sister (p. 65). Try steak and Guinness pie,

mutton pot stew with dumplings or a crock of mussels, accompanied by an Irish coffee.

Even larger than Waxy’s is The Porterhouse in Covent Garden, covering 12 levels. At peak times it can be tricky to find a seat, but it wins points for atmosphere, especially on Sunday afternoons when a live band plays in the basement. Try the stouts and ales brewed in Dublin, including a creamy chocolate truffle stout (21-22 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7NA).

Top of the morning to you! There’s been a pub on its Fleet Street site since 1605, and an Irish one since 1700, making The Tipperary London’s oldest Irish bar. A solid-oak bar, beams and wood panelling run through the narrow space, which is decorated with china mugs hanging from the ceiling, shamrock mosaic floor tiles, vintage Jameson signs and mirrors on the walls. Traditional Irish music tops off the atmosphere.

Raise a glass of Irish whiskey or a pint of Guinness to the bar staff (66 Fleet St, EC4Y 1HT) 1HT).

BAR AT WAXY O’CONNOR’S COURTESY OF WAXY O’CONNOR’S; PINT OF GUINNESS AND SHAMROCK © ISTOCK

As London’s Irish community celebrates St Patrick’s Day, Sarah Riches finds out how you can join in the craic

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 72-73)

TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London.

22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670.

D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho – there is no music. www.french housesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 0207437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. The beers and food are good. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Street.

The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, the pub dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair pub-restaurant offers a variety of ales in its unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 020-7493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Dick Turpin and Charles Dickens, at this pub – one of the oldest in London. Its Sunday roast and pies are popular – booking is advisable. www.thespaniardshampstead.co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map.

Station: Hampstead.

Waxy O’Connor’s Long-standing Irish bar, with four bars over six levels. It has regular live music, and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events (p. 64). www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Waxy’s Little Sister A smaller, slightly quieter sister venue of the huge Waxy’s, which has traditional Irish beers and whiskies, and also great bar food (p. 64). www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, London W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666, and has vaults which are even older than that. Enjoy a pint of English ale and dine on a range of simple pub food. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. Expect wines from unusual destinations, including Uruguay, with all bottles at just £20. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Back Room Located next to Hard Rock Cafe, the bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from the Apple Studios signed by The Beatles.

Enjoy cocktails, pizzas, burgers and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. There’s also a good menu of bar snacks. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Burlock Rum is definitely the spirit of choice here, in a relaxed bar that specialises in many types of cocktails using the Caribbean drink and unusual ingredients. www.burlocklondon.co.uk.

31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6.

Station: Bond Street.

BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’, pay £30, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails for you. Booking is recommended. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424.

Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

Cartizze Bar Cocktail destination in Mayfair majoring in timeless luxury, known for its Bellinis, with Art Deco surroundings and delicious bar food including oysters. www.cartizzebar.com.

4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388.

E6. Station: Bond Street.

COCKTAIL COURTESY OF HESTER’S HIDEOUT

A deep, dark secret For a special night out, delve deep to find Hester’s Hideout, a new cocktail and cabaret basement bar underneath Exmouth Market. The bar is named after Kitty Hester, an entertainer who danced for traders in an illicit tavern cellar in the 1900s – the same space that is now Hester’s Hideout. In keeping with its history, expect low ceilings, exposed brick walls and rough floorboards lit by neon lights. Order a cocktail made from a vintage recipe, or a molecular drink that will be brought smoking and bubbling to your table. For an extra treat, DJs play every Monday to Wednesday, plus there are live bands from Thursday to Saturday. Book for its cabaret shows on Friday and Saturday, where you will be entertained by anything from magicians to burlesque performers.

106b Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3EA. T: 020-7837 7139. www.hestershideout.com. C9. Station: Farringdon

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NIGHTLIFE

The bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant has an Art Deco interior, a Prohibitioninspired cocktail list and amazing views. www.city sociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) This retro-styled basement cocktail bar is a working gin distillery, and offers tastings, classes and tours. It’s tucked away down an alleyway in an atmospheric, old part of the city. www.cityof londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3636. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Drakes Tabanco A Spanish-style tapas bar that serves rare sherries, aged in ancient oak barrels. There are also craft beers, natural wines and a selection of Andalucian tapas dishes. www.drakestabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Dukes Bar Outstanding bar located in the hotel of the same name, and renowned for its superior martinis.

Oozing old-world charm, with leather armchairs in a cosy interior, the martinis are made at your table, from a century-old wooden trolley. www.dukes hotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.

Experimental Cocktail Club In an old Chinatown townhouse, this stylish bar is tucked away but worth the search for its inventive cocktails. Email booking is recommended. www.experimentalcocktailclublondon.com.

13a Gerrard St, W1D 5PS. T: 020-7434 3559. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub underneath. www. freedombarsoho.com.

60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and is the ideal place for sunset cocktails. www.the-shard.com.

31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000.

F10. Station: London Bridge.

Good Godfreys Old style glamour and classic cocktails are served with a hint of history at this suave establishment. Try signature cocktails including the Astor Hip Flask, named after the New York Waldorf Astoria’s owner. www.waldorfhilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. E8.

Station: Covent Garden.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its

Enjoy a classic martini at Dukes Bar, inspired by James Bond

candle-lit stone-arched basement. Try to go early to grab a table as it can get very busy. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

Jack Solomon’s Club

Reverend JW Simpson This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. You can also sign up for a cocktail masterclass. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

This new basement speakeasy bar in Soho is accessed by a hidden entrance, and boasts old-school glamour, with special cocktails and a large dance floor.

Email for the guest list. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7LU. www.jack solomons.com. E7. Station: Five of London’s Piccadilly Circus.

Scarfes Bar

This elegant bar is named after satirical cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of iconic British figures that are painted on Underground stations the walls. Enjoy cocktails inspired by are named after pubs, Looking Glass Cocktail Club famous characters Scarfe has including Angel and Enter a giant glass into a dimly-lit drawn, with Indian-style bar snacks.

Swiss Cottage room decorated with Louis XVIwww.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London inspired furniture. This speakeasy has hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. regular DJs, live music and performances.

T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

49 Hackney Rd, E2 7NX. T: 020-7613 3936. www.lookingglasslondon.co.uk. Off map.

St Pancras Champagne Bar Station: Hoxton.

Europe’s longest Champagne bar, in the upstairs forecourt of the train station, has a big selection Mews Cocktail Bar of bubbly. www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk. St Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020set the tone for exquisite wines, fresh fruit 7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras. cocktails and light dishes in a classy Six Storeys neighbourhood. www.mewsofmayfair.com.

As the name suggests, this Soho Square 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. townhouse is split over six levels. Each floor is E6. Station: Bond Street. decorated in a bohemian style, with plush chairs, The Nightjar vintage lampshades and patterned wallpaper.

Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish Cocktails are its speciality – try the quince and basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most blue cheese-infused gin. www.sixstoreys.com. nights. The elaborate cocktails are amazing.

11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

Old Bengal Bar This place is converted from a former warehouse located in a quiet back street, with original brick walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar. com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Opium Cocktail Bar Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of dimly lit rooms styled like a ‘20s Shanghai bar.

Sip a lychee martini and choose from a dim sum menu. www.opiumchinatown. com. Booking is recommended. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Oriole Number 17 out of the World’s 50 Best Bars in 2017, this spacious cocktail bar is below Smithfield Market. It stages live jazz and blues most nights, all in beautiful, explorerdécor surroundings. www.oriolebar.com.

Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Primo Bar Enjoy cocktails in this laid-back bar, which stages free live music every night. Its handy location makes it a great meeting spot. www.primobar.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282.

F8. Station: Waterloo.

Trader Vic’s

This tiki-style basement bar is more than 50 years old. Try a mai tai cocktail, surrounded by Polynesian wooden masks. There’s live music on Fri and Sat nights. www.tradervicslondon.com.

London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Trader’s Wine Bar Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, inspired by centuries of merchant ships sailing up the Thames. Try a sharing boards of cured meats and cheeses. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

The Vault The specialist whisky bar Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, and The Vault, behind the bookcases, is a speakeasy with cosy arches. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro is known for his groundbreaking cocktails in this cocktail lounge, with eccentric décor complete with leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. www.thezetter townhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This spectacular venue houses a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games. www.the casinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

MARTINI © ISTOCK

City Social

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Hippodrome Casino Huge venue with gaming on three floors, including roulette and baccarat. There’s also a restaurant, plus a basement venue for live music. www. hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming here, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy a poker lounge and sports bar, plus informal dining. www.thesportsmancasino.com. 16 Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6.

Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club This relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant serves great food to blues, R ’n’ B and soul played

by British-based independent artists on stage. www.606club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 0207352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus there’s a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye. It also serves American-style food such as buffalo wings, gumbo and cornbread. www.theblueskitchen.com.

111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches).

T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with lots of live entertainment, this new Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out.

Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602. D8.

Station: Holborn.

The Comedy Store One of the UK’s best stand-up and improvised comedy spots. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton and Neil Mullarkey, and there are also late-night stand-up slots. www. thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

London Cabaret Club British-themed cabaret. ‘Best of British Pop’ fuses acrobatics and dance with hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available.

A DJ takes over until 3am. www.thelondoncabaret club.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.

Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Sarah Vaughan, Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families. www.ronniescotts.co.uk.

47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellow’s Over the years, a vast number of celebrities have enjoyed a memorable evening of entertainment supplied by more than 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables at Peter Stringfellow’s famous gentlemen’s club and restaurant. Make sure you visit the opulent Red Rooms. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St. Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square. www.wheretraveler.com 67

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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Blade Hairclub exterior; scissors at Blade Hairclub; Duck & Dry; Blade Hairclub

More is more There was a time when you’d relax in a spa, then get your hair done in a salon, before moving on to enjoy a night out at a restaurant. But today all that has changed, as salons seek to up their guest experience by offering multipurpose facilities in one location.

In the quest to keep customers onsite and completely catered for, the multipurpose spa and salon is now the ultimate in customer service, a place where you can enjoy wellbeing treatments alongside a night out.

Blade Hairclub in Soho has innovated a new experience, which it describes as ‘hairclubbing’, In essence, it’s a hair salon with an espresso bar upstairs and a subterranean snug serving up a variety of cocktails, spirits and wines. Order drinks direct to your chair or take a seat at the bar while your hair colour processes (26 Frith St, W1D 5LD).

Barber & Parlour in trendy Shoreditch combines grooming options for men and women, with a space to eat, drink and even go to the cinema. The Cheeky Parlour offers treatments such as manicures, pedicures, waxing and brow tinting, while gents are

catered for in the Neville barber shop.

Downstairs, the basement cinema has comfy armchair seating, cashmere blankets and a choice of snacks and drinks from the licensed bar.

Take your pick from breakfast, brunch, salads and even mac ‘n’ cheese – it’s all on the menu.

Meanwhile, on the first floor you’ll find Hair by Josh Wood, which is home to a team of colourists and stylists, offering a full range of services including highlights, colour correction, hair smoothing and styling. If Barber & Parlour added a few bedrooms, you would never have to leave! (64-66 Redchurch St, E2 7DP).

With branches in Chelsea, Oxford Circus and now Carnaby Street, Duck & Dry’s

concept of high-end blow-dry bars also seems to be a winning formula. Blow-drys and up-dos are the order of the day, with the option to enjoy a relaxing glass of fizz or another tipple from the onsite Prosecco bar.

The store also stocks a range of haircare products available for sale that are manufactured in the West Country in Somerset and carefully formulated using natural active ingredients. Complete your makeover with a set of perfectly manicured nails, choosing from a wide range of nail treatments that are available in-store

by Nail’d. (Chelsea: 335-337 King’s Rd, SW3 5ES; Oxford Circus: 28 Market Place, W1W 8AW; Soho: inside Sweaty Betty at 1 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF).

MAN DRINKING, EXTERIOR IMAGE AND SCISSORS COURTESY OF BLADE HAIRCLUB; INTERIOR IMAGE COURTESY OF DUCK & DRY

Hair salons are offering everything from Prosecco bars to cinemas to make your grooming experience extra special, says Paul Critcher

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 72-73

SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon.

There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map.

Station: Imperial Wharf.

Body Relaxation High-quality deep-tissue massage directly in your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. There is a private suite, so you can share the experience with your guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 0207499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk.

489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685.

D8. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa

London like

An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a age-defying gold facial and carat-diamond rituals for the face and body. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa.

Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767.

Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata

This is one of the few places in London that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include weaves, extensions, wig creation and cutting.

There’s a hammam, too. www.urbanretreat.co.uk.

Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ushvani Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com.

1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888.

G5. Station: Sloane Square.

SALONS

Mandarin Oriental

A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

www.lesclefsdorgb.org The Refinery

@lesclefsdorgb lesclefsdorgb

This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to a sports massage.

If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Urban Retreat at Harrods

Gentlemen’s Tonic

A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 17m pool and a gym. You can book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park if you wish. www.mandarinoriental.com.

66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000.

F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

by qualified female masseuse.

This spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

This spa has an Asian touch: the gorgeous décor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Or Concierges

clefsdorgb efsdorgb

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel

AVENA MASSAGE

This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com.

31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Late appointments available

®

...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings and sightseeing activities in the area

They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us

Geo F Trumper

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar

where

At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work.

The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie An award-winning hair salon, which specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden. www.wheretraveler.com 69

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards

Concierges in the capital use Where London for information – these concierges share their top tips

Szymon Wawrzyniak is deputy head concierge at President Hotel What’s your most popular request?

Ways to celebrate St Patrick’s Day. Do not miss the St Patrick’s Day parade (18 Mar) from Piccadilly to Whitehall, and the festival in Trafalgar Square, which has Irish music.

Tell us about your hotel.

Our hotel was The Beatles’ first home after they moved to London in 1963.

Its Atrium Lounge hosts live jazz.

Any tips for families?

As a father of two, one of my favourite places is the London Wetland Centre in Barnes.

What’s the quintessential English experience?

Watch Changing the Guard ceremony by Buckingham Palace and visit a pub like Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.

Claudia Willecke

John Andrews

is a concierge at Four Seasons Hotel at Park Lane

is head concierge at The Goring hotel

Recommend a hidden gem.

The Postal Museum explores the surprising history of one of the greatest British inventions, the postal service – the earliest social network.

What should visitors with one day in London do?

Tour Westminster Abbey, then cross Westminster Bridge for the London Eye. Stroll from the South Bank to St Paul’s Cathedral, and have lunch at Borough Market.

Pop across Tower Bridge for a Beefeater tour at the Tower of London. Later, enjoy a British dinner at The Dining Room, a Michelin-starred restaurant in The Goring.

Tell us about your hotel.

Our Midnight Menu spa treatment begins at sunset, when the body’s circadian rhythm begins to switch to night mode. It prepares you for a good night’s sleep.

Any tips for families?

Sail from Westminster to Greenwich for its museums. Stand on the Meridian Line in Greenwich Park for views across London.

What’s the quintessential English experience?

Try clay pigeon shooting at Four Seasons Hampshire.

Above: WWT Wetland Centre This image The Goring hotel Right: St Patrick’s Day

Tell us about your hotel.

It is run by the same family that built it in 1910.

Any tips for families?

Board a Jason’s Trip canal boat from Little Venice to Camden Lock, or try brass rubbing at St Martin-in-theFields for family fun with an historical twist.

Recommend a hidden gem.

Make sure you visit The Old Bank of England pub, eat at independent restaurants in Kingly Court off Carnaby Street and take a candlelit tour of Dennis Severs’ House.

An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.

It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London.

You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.

Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.

An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses.

For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands.

Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England.

London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950.

St Pancras International.

Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 01233-617 575).

SZYMON WAWRZYNIAK COURTESY OF PRESIDENT HOTEL; CLAUDIA WILLECKE COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS HOTEL AT PARK LANE; JOHN ANDREWS COURTESY OF THE GORING; OTTERS COURTESY OF LONDON WETLAND CENTRE; THE GORING GARDEN COURTESY OF THE GORING; ST PATRICK’S DAY FESTIVAL © ELEANOR BENTALL

AT YOUR SERVICE

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ESSENTIALS

Willesden Green

Stonebridge Park Harlesden

Brondesbury Park

Willesden Junction

Kilburn Park Maida Vale Warwick Avenue Royal Oak Westbourne Park

Paddington

Ladbroke Grove Latimer Road

North Acton

Shepherd’s Bush

White City

Shepherd’s Bush Market

Stamford Brook

Ravenscourt Park

West Kensington

High Street Kensington

Green Park

Gloucester Road

Earl’s Court

Goodge Street

Victoria

Hoxton

Charing Cross

Liverpool Street

Bank

Aldgate East

Stepney Green

Whitechapel

Aldgate

Cannon Street Monument

Tower Gateway Rotherhithe

Bermondsey

Canada Water

West Brompton

Parsons Green

Surrey Quays

River Thames

Step-free access from street to platform

Bakerloo

Vauxhall

East Putney

Canning Town

District

Hammersmith & City

Custom House for ExCeL

Blackwall East India

Emirates Royal Docks

Heron Quays

North Greenwich

Elephant & Castle

Jubilee

Metropolitan

Prince Regent Royal Albert

West Silvertown Emirates Greenwich Peninsula

Pontoon Dock

New Cross Gate

Northern

Victoria

Cyprus Gallions Reach Beckton

King George V 17/E/3249/P

Greenwich New Cross

Brockley

Piccadilly

Beckton Park

London City Airport

Mudchute

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich Queens Road Peckham

Circle

Royal Victoria

Island Gardens

Borough

Southfields

Central

Star Lane

Langdon Park

Canary Wharf

Lambeth North

Putney Bridge Step-free access from street to train

East Ham Upton Park

Crossharbour

Southwark

Imperial Wharf

Upney Barking

West Ham

Bow BromleyRoad by-Bow Devons Road

South Quay Waterloo Pimlico

Fulham Broadway

Elm Park Dagenham East Dagenham Heathway

Stratford

West India Quay

Wapping

River Thames

London Bridge

Woodgrange Park

Forest Gate Maryland

Abbey Road

Westferry Poplar

Limehouse

Tower Hill

Fenchurch Street

Embankment

Pudding Mill Lane

All Saints Shadwell

Blackfriars Temple

Westminster

Bow Church

St. Paul’s

Hornchurch

Plaistow

Moorgate Chancery Lane

Ilford Manor Park

Becontree

Bethnal Green Bethnal Mile Green End

Shoreditch High Street

Barbican

Upminster Bridge

Seven Kings

Wanstead Park

Stratford High Street

Cambridge Heath

Old Street

Covent Garden

St. James’s Park

Homerton London Fields

Haggerston

Farringdon

Leicester Mansion Square House

Piccadilly Circus

Sloane Square

South Kensington

Holborn

Tottenham Court Road

Knightsbridge

Barons Court

Hammersmith

Regent’s Park

Marble Arch

Dalston Junction

Angel Euston Square Russell Square

Queensway

Caledonian Road & Barnsbury

King’s Cross St. Pancras

Bayswater Oxford Circus

Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick

Highbury & Islington

Euston

Warren Street

Edgware Road

Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Goldhawk Road

Mornington Crescent

Great Baker Portland Street Street

Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate

Holland Park

Wood Lane

Camden Road

Chalk Farm Camden Town

Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood

Edgware Road Marylebone

Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road

Kentish Town West Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead

East Acton

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

Waterloo & City

DLR

Services or access at these stations are subject to variation.

Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details.

Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays

Emirates Air Line cable car

Overground

TfL Rail

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Transport for London

Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P

Version D 7.2017

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Hire: T: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk.

Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com.

Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.

Congestion Charge UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14).

UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.

River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes.

Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop on/hop off all day from 9am). Adult £19; child (5-15) £9.50; Family (two adults, up to three children) just £38. Children under five travel free.

Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.

Correct at time of going to print

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire a rs, and the first 30 minutes ; the first 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl. gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

24-hour Tube lines

Coaches

Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon.

London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and The Netherlands.

SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. Map D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland.

Mail Boxes are also trained certified packers.

T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

• Jubilee Line: Across the entire line.

• Victoria Line: Across the entire line.

• Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware. Night Tube will not stop at Charing Cross.

• Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5.

• Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 71

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13/02/2018 11:54

WHERE NOW | JOE PASQUALE

My Perfect Day

JOE PASQUALE

What are your favourite buildings?

How do you prefer to travel?

Where is your favourite place to drink?

The Tower of London is one of them. And, by complete contrast, The Shard and the OXO building – I love going up to the OXO restaurant.

The Tower of London is magnificent. You know, it has been on our doorstep for a thousand years and the last time I went was a few months ago, but before that it must’ve been on a school trip.

It used to be a zoo with polar bears, lions, the lot.

Walking – you lose it all otherwise, you lose all the buildings. It’s too dangerous to ride a bike.

I wouldn’t cycle in London.

I don’t drink or do any of that stuff. If I was going to meet a mate, we’d go to Paul bakery and have a cup of tea and cake – that’s me done for the day.

What museums or galleries do you like?

The Natural History Museum because I just love dinosaurs, for a start. You can’t beat dinosaur bones, and if you’re going to go and see the best ones, that’s the best place to go to.

Where do you like shopping?

Covent Garden. I like all retro shops and there are loads of them there. Rokit’s one of them, but there are so many. They remind me of my childhood. I much prefer them to all the designer stuff – you pay through the nose for a lot of that stuff. One of my favourite items I bought was a skull ring from Crazy Pig Designs in Covent Garden. It’s a silver skull ring with a skull on the front. I’m into horror and I’ve written a horror book, so I like the dark side of things.

What is your favourite green space?

Greenwich Park. I trained for the London Marathon there a couple of years ago. I did it when I was 50 years old and did it in two and a half hours and I must say, it’s hard. Anything that scares me, I’ll do it.

74 W H E R E LO N D O N I M A R C H 2018

WL MAR MY PERFECT DAY.indd 74

Is there a place that holds a special memory for you?

One of my first jobs when I left school was working at Smithfield Market. I was what’s called a ‘humper’. So, I used to have half a dead cow on my back most days. I’m sure it’s called something else now – 40 years ago it was called a humper because you’re humping meat about.

Do you have a favourite hotel in London?

No, I don’t really have a favourite hotel in London.

I don’t stay in London because I’m only 20 miles out. I’ve spent most of my life in hotels around the world, and haven’t got the personality for them.

Tell us about Some Mothers Do ‘Ave ‘Em.

I’d do something scary: The London Dungeon, The Clink, and then to a show. I’ll see good stuff, bad stuff, funny, musical, horror. I saw The Exorcist at the Phoenix Theatre, which was great.

The play is just as scary as the film.

It’s the first stage version of the television show, which was on 40 years ago. I play Frank Spencer and it’ll be touring all around the country. It’s an original script. The TV show was well-known for its stunts, so we’re replicating a lot of them. I’ve got to ensure that I don’t break my neck in the first week! It’s a show that you can take your whole family to, aged from seven to 97.

Where is your favourite place to eat out?

What makes London stand out?

Burger & Lobster in [Dean Street] Soho.

I always go for the lobster.

There’s no history in the world like London’s history. One of the most amazing facts is that the Americans didn’t know that they didn’t actually buy Tower Bridge. Well, they bought London Bridge, about 50 years ago, but they thought it was Tower Bridge. But it was London Bridge.

Richmond Theatre, The Green, TW9 1QJ. T: 0844-871 7633. www.somemothersdoaveem.com

What is your perfect entertainment?

Clockwise from top left: OXO Tower; Joe Pasquale; Greenwich Park; The London Dungeon; Natural History Museum; Paul bakery

OXO TOWER AND RIVERSIDE WALKWAY © COIN STREET COMMUNITY BUILDER; JOE PASQUALE COURTESY OF SOME MOTHERS DO ‘AVE ‘EM; GREENWICH PARK © ANNE MARIE BRISCOMBE; THE LONDON DUNGEON COURTESY OF THE LONDON DUNGEON; NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM © ISTOCK; PAUL BAKERY COURTESY OF PAUL

COMEDIAN AND ACTOR The actor is starring as Frank Spencer in the play Some Mothers Do ‘Ave ‘Em. The show is based on the classic TV comedy, and it is touring the country. He previously hosted The Price Is Right and won I’m a Celebrity...Get Me Out of Here!

15/02/2018 11:12

K PA R EY BL EM W

THE WEMBLEY

STADIUM

TOUR

GO BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE UK’S LARGEST SPORTING AND MUSIC VENUE

wembleystadium.com/tours +44 (0)800 169 9933

Special group rates available TOURS DEPART DAILY: 10:00 – 15:00

PRINTED TRANSLATION GUIDES AVAILABLE IN 10 LANGUAGES

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STEP INTO THE

FORBIDDEN FOREST

T I C K E T S M U S T B E P U R C H A S E D I N A DVA N C E AT W B S T U D I OTO U R . CO . U K TM & © 2018 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. J.K. ROWLING’S WIZARDING WORLD TM J.K. Rowling and Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc.

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