Where Magazine London Feb 2019

GUIDE TO LONDON ®

FEBRUARY 2019

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Swing into the Sixties and discover how the decade changed the city

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Nelson Mandela Chinese New Year Valentine’s Day gifts

SHOPPING

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‘IT IS OUT OF THIS WORLD, IT’S MAGIC, AND IT’S A HIT’ THE TIMES

CHECK DAILY FOR LATE-RELEASE TICKETS

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CONTENTS

COVER: KELLIE WILSON WEARING A TIE DRESS BY MARY QUANT’S GINGER GROUP/PHOTOGRAPH BY GUNNAR LARSEN, 1966 © GUNNAR LARSEN; GLOBAL ICON © ISTOCK. THIS PAGE: NELSON MANDELA © PETER MOREY; CUTTY SARK © NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM; WAITRESS © JOAN MARCUS

FEBRUARY

FEATURES

LISTINGS

6 WHERE NOW The biggest festivals and events taking place this month, from Six Nations Rugby at Twickenham to David Suchet on stage in Arthur Miller’s The Price.

20 SIGHTSEEING Visit sights with a global reach, from the Cutty Sark in Greenwich to the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park.

10 SIXTIES LONDON They weren’t called the Swinging Sixties for nothing – we discover how a decade of revolution changed the face of the capital.

14 CHINESE NEW YEAR It’s the Year of the Pig! Here’s how Chinese Londoners mark the new year.

18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE It’s Valentine’s Day this month, so take your pick from these romantic gifts.

74 MY PERFECT DAY Asma Khan, the chef behind Darjeeling Express, shares her London hotspots.

64 NIGHTLIFE Globetrot around London’s bars and enjoy tastes from Latin America to Asia.

38 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Celebrate the life of Nelson Mandela at a new exhibition in Waterloo.

68 WELLNESS Chinese medicine, Moroccan hammams and Russian parenie – sample treatments inspired by other cultures.

44 ENTERTAINMENT From Black Is The Color of my Voice to Waitress – here are the latest shows opening up in the West End.

70 ESSENTIALS London’s experienced hotel concierges share their helpful tips on how to make the most of your time in the city.

52 SHOPPING After an international brand? These shops source items from all over the globe.

72 MAP A useful map of central London to help you on your travels.

56 DINING You can enjoy food from all parts of the world in London – especially as global restaurants are flocking to the capital.

See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four- and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’

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M A G A Z I N E

IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936

EDITORIAL

MVP I OPERATIONS

CONTENT DIRECTOR Chris Johnson GROUP EDITOR Kohinoor Sahota GROUP DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Riches ASSOCIATE AND DIGITAL EDITOR Neil Simpson SUB EDITOR Anna Frame CONTRIBUTORS Jessica Browne-Swinburne, Kathryn Conway GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton SENIOR DESIGNER Suzette Scoble DESIGNER Ella-Louisa Romain PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt

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MVP I CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC. 725 Broad St, Augusta, GA 30901

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S Morris IV

WHERE LONDON 2nd Floor, Samuel House, 6 St Alban’s St, London, SW1Y 4SQ

Vol. No. 45 Issue No.1 ISSN 0951 323X

♥

Our te favouri IC T ROMANES PLAC

NEIL SIMPSON Head to One New Change shopping centre and take the lift to the top, to Madison.

You will be right next to the dome of St Paul’s Cathedral and it’s totally free.

PUBLISHED IN ASSOCIATION WITH

JESSICA BROWNESWINBURNE My favourite romantic spot in the city would be Hyde Park in the summer. Sitting in a deckchair with some Pimm’s is my favourite thing.

Officially endorsed by the Society of the Golden Keys of GB and the Commonwealth

CHRIS JOHNSON Nothing says romance like flowers and nowhere does blooms like Columbia Road Flower Market. It’s a bustling, colourful market surrounded by intimate cafés.

SARAH RICHES My favourite romantic spot is the pergola in Hampstead Heath.

It’s really hidden – not many Londoners know about it – and pretty in any season.

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

The Professional Publishers Association Member

Contact: Where Magazine Subscriptions. T: 020-7611 7882. Email: subscriptions@morriseurope.com. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In London, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a member of The Society of the Golden Keys and London & Partners/Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LCC, 727 Broad St, Augusta, GA 20901. Where® Magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

The papers used for this magazine are produced from certified sustainable sources by mills with recognised environmental accreditation.

THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD © JULIAN CALVERLEY

MEET THE TEAM

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WELCOME There are few cities that have a global reach like London does.

We have world-famous British playwrights, chefs and artists, but we are also proud to be one of the most multicultural cities in the world.

If you want to eat authentic dim sum or watch a musical with a diverse cast, we have that and much more.

In this Global Special, we show you how to find the world in London.

Happy Chinese New Year! It’s the Year of the Pig, and we spoke to Chinese Londoners about how they mark the occasion (p. 14).

If you’re here with your other half, you’ve chosen the perfect time to visit – love is in the air on Valentine’s Day (14 Feb). We’ve put together a gift guide, so you can treat your loved one (p. 18).

What do Jimi Hendrix, Mary Quant and The Beatles have in common? They were all superstars who transformed London during the Sixties. Find out more about their influence (p. 10).

Whatever you do, we hope you have a great trip – and don’t forget to share your snaps with us on social media.

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

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Wrap up warm and get out in the city this February – cheer on winter runners, admire classic cars and take the kids to a special festival

14 FEB

VALENTINE’S DAY

It’s that time of the year when roses and candlelit dinners are at the forefront of everyone’s mind. But, if you want to do something a little bit different this year, visit one of London’s iconic sights. Hop on board the Cupid’s Capsule on the Coca-Cola London Eye – you can have a capsule to yourself (plus a guide), while enjoying Champagne and truffles. Spencer House, meanwhile, was the former home of the Earl of Spencer (an ancestor of Princess Diana) and includes the Painted Room. Its theme – the triumph of love – is illustrated by the dancing nymphs on the walls. If you’re planning to propose, why not do so in St Paul’s Cathedral’s Whispering Gallery? Here, a murmur against its walls is audible on the opposite side of the dome. The View from The Shard, meanwhile, offers special packages to make sure everything goes to plan.

13-24 IMAGINE CHILDREN’S FEB FESTIVAL If you’re in town for half-term LONDON CLASSIC CAR SHOW 14-17 THE Did you know that it’s been 60 years since the iconic Mini Cooper was first FEB produced? This year’s show celebrates that landmark and also pays tribute to Jaguar designer Ian Callum. Taking place at ExCeL in the Docklands, you’ll find cars aplenty and an indoor racing track, where you can watch vehicles of all shapes and sizes compete.

On your marks, get set, go! www.thelondonclassiccarshow.co.uk

(the UK’s first school holiday of the year), expect to come across an abundance of family-friendly events. Children take part in every aspect of the Southbank Centre’s Imagine Festival, including assisting backstage and broadcasting announcements. With theatre and comedy shows, it promises to be a lot of fun. www.southbankcentre.co.uk

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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

3 FEB

LONDON WINTER RUN

Cheer on the participants in the London Winter Run, a 10km fundraising race through the capital, which passes many landmarks. The race first took place in 2015 and is now an annual event in which more than 65,000 people have taken part. Watch the start of the race in Trafalgar Square, complete with a flurry of ‘snow’. The route goes past The Savoy hotel, Nelson’s Column and St Paul’s Cathedral. Runners and spectators are set to be entertained by winter characters at the Husky High-Five Zone and Penguin Party. www.londonwinterrun.co.uk

FROM Collect Art Fair 28 FEB Taking over Chelsea’s Saatchi Gallery, Collect is a must for fans of arts and crafts. The festival showcases work from around the world that has been produced in the past five years only. Visitors are treated to an overview of the modern international craft scene, from Chinese ceramics and lacquerware, to gold and silver pieces made in the UK. Look out, too, for a collaborative project between Filipino designers and Czech glassblowers. www.craftscouncil.org.uk

1 FEB

MASSAOKE

If you can’t get a ticket to see a West End musical, then book A Massaoke Night at the Musicals. The band Massaoke host this new show at KOKO in Camden, which sees them perform some of the biggest hits from shows including Grease, Dirty Dancing, Evita, Cats, The Phantom of the Opera and The Lion King. Best of all, you can sing along to the songs because the audience is guided by lyrics shown on a big screen. www.massaoke.com www.wheretraveler.com 7

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FEBRUARY JAN

Catherine Tate Show

Meet hilarious characters, from Irish nurse Bernie to Geordie Georgie, in the Catherine Tate Show Live at Wyndham’s Theatre. The British comedian is best known for her character Lauren the Teenager, who was miserable about everything and had the catchphrase ‘Am I bovvered?’. These dates follow a sold-out tour of Australia and New Zealand. www.wyndhamstheatre.co.uk

FROM The Price 5 FEB Famous for his role as Hercule Poirot, David Suchet is one of Britain’s finest actors. See him on stage as he stars in Arthur Miller’s The Price to mark the 50th anniversary of the play, which tells the story of two brothers meeting after 16 years.

When the play premiered on Broadway in 1968, it was nominated for two Tony Awards. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk

23 FEB

HANDEL & HENDRIX IN LONDON

In Mayfair you will find a musical landmark: two neighbouring houses on Brook Street that were once home to baroque composer George Frideric Handel, followed

by American guitarist Jimi Hendrix 200 years later. These days, the homes are combined and you can traverse the centuries to witness the home lives of both men.

Handel’s birthday (23 Feb) makes it a great time to visit. Enjoy live baroque music played throughout the day in the music room, as well as baroque dances. www.handelhendrix.org

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Take a tour of The Royal Mews, see the carriages and feel like a royal for the day Immerse yourself in the dream-like world of designer Christian Dior at the V&A Brave the elements to cheer on the participants in the London Winter Run Children will love Disney’s musical Aladdin, which is on at the Prince Edward Theatre It’s Chinese New Year! Head to Chinatown and celebrate with a special meal Visit legendary British photographer Don McCullin’s exhibition at Tate Britain Dance the night away with Scottish synthpop band CHVRCHES at Alexandra Palace Trace the evolution of the late Princess of Wales’ style at Kensington Palace Enjoy a bottomless brunch and hear musical theatre hits at West End Musical Brunch Head to the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park for its first half marathon Admire stylish designs at the International Fashion Showcase at Somerset House Step into a Colombian-inspired floral paradise at Kew Gardens’ Orchids Festival Watch Pretty Woman at the 1950s Rivoli Ballroom Pop-Up Cinema in Brockley Sit down to a romantic dinner for two on the River Thames, courtesy of City Cruises London Fashion Week starts today, showcasing the best of British fashion Enjoy a unique dining experience based on Fawlty Towers at Radisson Blu Edwardian Kids will love a day out at the Imagine Children’s Festival at the Southbank Centre Celebrate the incredible life of Nelson Mandela at 26 Leake Street in Waterloo Join six Michelin-starred chefs at a charity banquet and auction at Gibson Hall Dance to an orchestral rendition of Drake’s 2012 album, Take Care, at XOYO Get hoppy at the Craft Beer Rising festival in Shoreditch with music, food and brews Elizabethan miniatures are on display at the National Portrait Gallery Visit Handel & Hendrix in London to celebrate the birthday of the composer Dance the night away on the London Routes of Reggae boat party Head to The National Gallery for Scenes of Parisian Life by Louis Léopold-Boilly Visit the Royal Academy of Arts to see Phyllida Barlow’s large-scale installations See the award-winning film-maker Daria Martin’s solo commission at the Barbican Head to the Swinging London exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum

Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com

PREVIOUS PAGES: COCA-COLA LONDON EYE © ROB MACLESE; CLASSIC CAR SHOW © JONATHAN JACOB PHOTOGRAPHY; CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL COURTESY OF SOUTHBANK CENTRE; WINTER RUN © MATT ALEXANDER; COLLECT ART FAIR © TONY HAY; MASSAOKE COURTESY OF MASSAOKE. THIS PAGE: THE PRICE © NOBBY CLARK; JIMI HENDRIX © BARRIE WENTZELL; HANDEL & HENDRIX IN LONDON © JAMES NEWTON

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‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ NEW YORK POST

THE MUSICAL #BeMoreMatilda

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MatildaTheMusical.com CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU

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Mary Quant with models in 1967 10 W H E R E LO N D O N I F E B R UA R Y 20 19

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SIXTIES LONDON | WHERE NOW

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COOL litical flower power, po It was an age of and – sexual liberation awakening and e centre of it all.

London was at th e explores how th Kathryn Conway the capital Sixties changed

MARY QUANT AND MODELS © PA PRINTS; MARY QUANT AND VIDAL SASSOON © RONALD DUMONT/STRINGER/GETTY; PICCADILLY CIRCUS © ISTOCK

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IME magazine might have been a little late to the party when it christened London ‘The Swinging City’ in 1966, but it was a phrase that would come to define the Sixties.

As Britain shook off post-war austerity, the capital became the epicentre of a scene that would see youthful creativity rise up against the conservative establishment and dominate the decade in a haze of hedonistic, psychedelic glory. Indeed, from the mods and rockers to the hippies and (often controversial) skinheads, it was youth subculture that ensured that Swinging London set the social, political and cultural agenda for the rest of the world. ‘It was the girls on the King’s Road who invented the mini,’ designer Mary Quant once said of her now iconic thighlength skirts.

THE REVOLUTION BEGINS Mary Quant is rather understating her own contribution, of course. As part of the ‘Chelsea Set’ (a radical group of designers, artists, photographers, musicians and socialites who lived, worked and partied in the royal borough), she revolutionised fashion and the way people shopped for it. People copied her angular bob (cut

by Vidal Sassoon) and when she and her husband Alexander Plunket Greene opened Bazaar, a boutique on the King’s Road, in 1955, people hadn’t seen anything like it before.

Mary Quant and Vidal Sassoon in 1964

Piccadilly Circus in the 1960s

This fact is neatly encapsulated in a new exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum that is opening this month. Swinging London: A Lifestyle Revolution (from 8 Feb) provides a window on the groundbreaking work of not only Quant, but also Terence Conran and Laura and Bernard Ashley. Quant’s simple yet irreverent ensembles sit alongside Conran’s first designs for Habitat (the contemporary homeware store he founded in 1964, which is now located on Tottenham Court Road), in individual sets that evoke the freedom of spirit of the time.

‘Terence Conran was instrumental in bringing continental style to a rather stodgy Britain,’ says Geoffrey Rayner, co-curator of the exhibition. Fellow curator Richard Chamberlain adds: ‘Quant virtually invented

the modern boutique. Shopping for clothes became a far more fun and inclusive experience, as opposed to the somewhat stuffy and traditional way women had bought clothes in the past. Racks of off-the-peg mini-dresses sold in a stylish ‘mod’ environment with music playing was just not how it was done before.’

Deborah Woolf, who is the owner of an eponymous vintage boutique in Marylebone (24 Church Street) that is well worth a visit for anyone with a passion for Sixties and Seventies fashion, agrees, saying: ‘It was the era of the boutique, particularly in London, and this set the fashion revolution alight.’ Indeed, after Bazaar, the King’s Road and its surrounding streets became populated with hip w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 11

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WHERE NOW | SIXTIES LONDON

WHERE FASHION AND MUSIC COLLIDE In Soho, Carnaby Carnaby Street Street became a mecca for London’s mods who made pilgrimages to the numerous boutiques owned by ‘the King of Carnaby Street’, John Stephen.

Today, Carnaby remains a muchloved shopping destination and it’s still possible to find the mod spirit at Lambretta (29 Carnaby Street), The Face (1 Marlborough Court) and Sherry’s (63 Broadwick Street). And with the mods came music, specifically bands such as the Small Faces and The Who. As Woolf points out: ‘It is difficult to separate music, particularly in London, from the culture of fashion during this period. Apart from Elvis, who was seen as rather radical, rock ‘n’ roll was considered staid and commercial by the Sixties. People were embracing a different sound and, with the arrival of Pink Floyd and The Beatles at Abbey Road Studios, London was where it was at.’

Sat behind the mixing desk as the Fab Four were recording The Beatles (White Album) was engineer and producer Ken Scott. He remembers a band who were keen to push the boundaries and were experimental in their approach. ‘They always wanted something different, so that pushed us [recording engineers] to expand our horizons and to try new things,’ he says.

Abbey Road Studios only occasionally runs tours, but you can visit its shop and recreate the cover of the Abbey Road album on the hallowed zebra crossing nearby.

The London Beatles Store, near Baker Street, also sells memorabilia. Look out for the Blue Plaque at 94 Baker Street, which was once the band’s Apple Boutique clothing store.

Die-hard fans may want to check out the original lyrics to songs such as In My Life and

Abbey Road Studios Shop Abbey Road’s zebra crossing

T-shirt from Abbey Road Studios Shop

Jimi Hendrix’s bedroom at Handel & Hendrix in London

V&A promotion for Mary Quant

Strawberry Fields Forever held at The British Library, or view The Beatles’ memorabilia displayed in The Vault at the Hard Rock Café on Old Park Lane. There are myriad tours you can do, too. Among the best are the Beatles & More walks run by Richard Porter in conjunction with London Walks.

While Beatlemania raged around the world, the soundscape was challenged once again with the arrival of Jimi Hendrix in London in 1966. Teaming up with acoustic engineer Roger Mayer, Hendrix and his band – The Jimi Hendrix Experience – took the electric guitar to new heights with their own brand of psychedelic rock.

You can appreciate their prowess when the Handel & Hendrix in London museum hosts a party dedicated to the legendary performances given by The Jimi Hendrix Experience at the Royal Albert Hall in February 1969.

During a Friday Late (8 Feb), the very flat in which Hendrix lived while in the city will host DJs, film projections and live music.

There will also be an opportunity to explore areas that are usually closed to the public. Guided tours, meanwhile, take place every Friday between 3pm and 4.30pm.

Lovers of Sixties sounds should also check out Rip It Up – The 60s, a musical extravaganza at the Garrick Theatre (from 7 Feb). Promising to take a journey through the decade via song, dance and acrobatics, the songs of The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and The Who will be brought to life like never before.

Proof, if any was needed, of the lasting impact this transformative decade has had. London is still swinging. www.ftmlondon.org; www.handelhendrix.org www.vam.ac.uk

ABBEY ROAD AND CARNABY STREET © ISTOCK; SHOP AND T-SHIRT COURTESY OF ABBEY ROAD STUDIOS; JIMI HENDRIX’S BEDROOM COURTESY OF HANDEL & HENDRIX IN LONDON; BUS IMAGE COURTESY OF V&A; RIP IT UP COURTESY OF RIP IT UP.

boutiques such as Biba, Granny Takes a Trip and Mr Freedom. In turn, they became celebrity hangouts and ensured the area achieved cult status among screaming teens keen to bump into their idols. The cultural revolution wasn’t just confined to Chelsea however.

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TM & © 2019 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. Wizarding World TM & © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc

Explore the iconic sets, see the real props and costumes, and discover how filmmakers brought the magic to life TICKETS MUST BE PURCHASED IN A DVA N C E AT W B S T U D I OTO U R .CO.U K

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WHERE NOW | CHINESE NEW YEAR

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RUBY WU Dim sum master at Ping Pong No Chinese New Year celebration would be complete without a bit of dim sum, so we tracked down Ruby Wu from the Ping Pong restaurant chain. Born and raised in Hong Kong, Ruby arrived in the UK as a teenager to study at Warminster School in Wiltshire, but I yearned for the big city. ‘It was idyllic countryside, but I moved to London in my twenties,’ Ruby says. ‘The shopping, the partying, meeting new people – I’ve been here for 10 years and I’m still loving it.

‘I’m not a classically trained chef but I always have eyes for new products and I like to mix new ingredients. Our

Chinese food has a twist to it, but there are traditional dishes that, as a dim sum restaurant, you must have, such as har gow [dumplings] and shumai [open dumplings with goji berries]. Jian dui [fried rice-flour balls] are typical for Chinese New Year, so we have a chocolate version.

‘This is a family-orientated time of year, but if I’m in London I’ll have a party with my friends.’

Aside from food, Ruby recommends the Victoria and Albert Museum. ‘It has a lot of ancient Chinese art, which is a great way to learn about our history,’ she says. ‘You can easily spend a day there.’ www.pingpongdimsum.com

PAUL LAU AND EUGENE LING St Martin-in-the-Fields church On the northeast corner of Trafalgar Square, St Martin-inthe-Fields is literally at the heart of cosmopolitan London and its services reflect this: the church holds Chineselanguage Christian services. We visited its underground crypt-turned-café to meet Reverend Paul Lau and a member of the parochial church council, Eugene Ling.

‘I was born in Hong Kong and worked there for 13 years, then after seven years in New Zealand I came to St Martinin-the-Fields in 2000,’ Paul explains. ‘There’s been a Chinese congregation here for Reverend over 50 years. In Hong Kong, we’d Paul Lau have four days off for New Year, but in London we work.’

Eugene was also born in Hong Kong and came to London 20 years ago as a student. ‘On Sunday there’s a 10am service – when the parade is passing there’s so much drumming,’ he says. Paul adds: ‘They let off 10,000 firecrackers in Trafalgar Square. You can’t legally fire those anywhere else, but noise is such a vital part of Chinese New Year.’ www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org

LUCY MITCHELL Managing director of SeeWoo Chinatown is packed with restaurants representing a range of East Asian cuisines, but where does all that food come from? Established in 1975 in Chinatown, SeeWoo supermarket is a big cog in the area’s machine.

‘My father came over from Hong Kong in the 1960s as a teenager,’ says Lucy, who will celebrate new year with her staff. ‘He met my mum while they were working in a restaurant: it was hard to get authentic ingredients at the time, so he opened a supermarket in Chinatown and we’ve gone on to supply restaurants around the UK.’ SeeWoo’s operation gives us a great insight into Chinatown life. ‘We send a lorry to Chinatown at 8am,’ Lucy says. ‘If a restaurant has had a busy lunch, we can barrow-boy them some more rice sacks at 3pm.’ With an English mother and Chinese father, Lucy personifies the city’s cultural melting pot. www.seewoo.com w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 15

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WHERE NOW | CHINESE NEW YEAR

AN-TING CHANG Artistic director of the Chinese Arts Now festival Without exception, everyone we interviewed talked about food – a lot! Just like Christmas, eating is key to Chinese New Year, but the Chinese Arts Now festival (to 2 Feb) proves that there’s more to the celebrations. The festival’s CEO and artistic director An-Ting Chang told us her London story.

‘I grew up in Taiwan and moved to London 10 years ago, to study at the Royal Academy of Music,’ she explains. ‘New Year in Chinatown is very typical, with its restaurants and lion dance, but we want to show the contemporary

side of it – we tell modern stories rooted in our heritage.’

The programme includes documentaries and films at the Southbank Centre, Alissa Anne Jeun Yi’s one-woman show Love Songs at Camden People’s Theatre, as well as a play performed in a restaurant: ‘Citizens of Nowhere? is at Duddell’s restaurant in London Bridge and the audience eats while they watch,’ An-Ting says. It follows British-Chinese matriarch Linda Lo as she visits London to share a big decision with her children (to 2 Feb).

Back in the West End, a sculpture is going to be unveiled this month outside Leicester Square’s Hippodrome Casino. By Hong Kong’s Otto Li, the 11m-long metal artwork is called Five Peaks and depicts China’s Five Great Mountains. ‘It’s inspired by the soundwaves created by the five peaks,’ An-Ting explains.

How can you get a taste of Taiwan here?

‘Our most noticeable influence is the bubble tea, but they alter it for English tastes a lot!

CoCo on Dean Street looks very authentic.’ www.chineseartsnow.org.uk

ELLEN CHEW CEO of the Rasa Sayang Group

Yu sheng

Ellen Chew encapsulates London’s Chinese food scene. She’s CEO of the Rasa Sayang Group, named after Chinatown’s Singaporean-Malaysian restaurant on Macclesfield Street. We met Ellen there for a Malaysian milk tea, teh tarik. Arriving in London in 2005, she now oversees a restaurant empire. ‘I did marketing and leasing for food courts in Singapore, so I initially came here to help open a food court,’ she says.

Ellen opened Rasa Sayang in 2008. So, what is the food like there? ‘Before Singapore got its independence, the food was similar to Malaysia’s,’ she says. ‘We serve laksa [spicy noodle soup], char kuay teow [stir-fried flat noodles] and chicken rice. We introduced yu sheng, a special for New Year. This raw salmon salad is Singaporean – you don’t find it in China or Hong Kong. We use a white fish back home, but it’s always raw.’ Yu sheng is made by theatrically tossing ingredients into the air, which Ellen says is a great way to break the ice: ‘As we toss, we say good words for the new year and give blessings – the higher the throw, the better your fortunes!’ www.rasasayangfood.com

PREVIOUS PAGES: CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATIONS © GLA; PING PONG INTERIOR AND RUBY WU COURTESY OF PING PONG; REVEREND PAUL LAU © PAUL GASCOIGNE; LUCY MITCHELL COURTESY OF SEEWOO. THIS PAGE: CHINESE ARTS NOW © CHEN CHOU CHANG; AN-TING CHANG COURTESY OF CAN; YU SHENG AND ELLEN CHEW COURTESY OF RASA SAYANG GROUP. BACKGROUND © ISTOCK

Chinese Arts Now

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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS

Chambers & Beau reversible cufflinks in silver John Lewis & Partners, £100, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

Personalised Champagne Fortnum & Mason, £50, 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER

Happy Socks heart-pattern socks Selfridges, £10, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

Gifts for

Heart box of chocolates Prestat, £19.50, 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS

VALENTINE’S DAY Love is in the air! Here are some gifts that will make your dearest fall even more in love with you

Valentine’s Day love letter biscuits Biscuiteers, £11.95, Festival Terrace Shop, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX

Deco Coupe glasses John Lewis & Partners, £20 for two, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE STOCKISTS

Eddingtons heart-shaped egg poacher John Lewis & Partners, £5, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

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V&A South Kensington Now open #CastCourts Admission free vam.ac.uk

The Ruddock Family Cast Court, Room 46a Š Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Discover the awe-inspiring

The Cast Courts redevelopment project is supported by Garfield Weston Foundation, Ruddock Foundation for the Arts, N. Sethia Foundation, American Friends of the V&A, American Express, DCMS/Wolfson Museums and Galleries Improvement Fund, and many other generous donors.

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SIGHTSEEING SIGHTSEEING

The British Library

Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington and his descendants to see its grand interiors and fine art. Revel in one of the finest art collections in London, with paintings by Velázquez and Rubens, as well as a wonderful collection of silver and porcelain. Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £10; child £6. www.english-heritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6.

Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit

The world’s largest library, with a great permanent collection as well as many temporary exhibitions.

To 19 Feb: Anglo-Saxon Kingdoms: Art, Word, War. Ancient British manuscripts dating between the 5th century and 1066, including the Domesday Book and a huge copy of the Bible called Codex Amiantinus, made by English monks in 716 AD. To 24 Feb: PG Wodehouse: The Man and His Work. Using both famous and lesser-known works, this display traces the British author’s creative development. To 17 Mar: Harold Pinter: A Line, A Word, An Image. Marking 10 years since the playwright’s death, this exhibition offers an insight into his creative process. To 17 Mar: Cats on the Page.

The library’s entrance hall is taken over by literary cats, from Judith Kerr’s children’s book Mog to Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats by TS Eliot.

From 26 Feb: Friendship Before Facebook: Social Networks in a Pre-Digital Age. The library presents its collection of little ‘friendship albums’, created between 1600 and 1900. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk.

96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. The slide was created by the German artist Carsten Höller. During the descent, you’ll catch glimpses of the park and London’s skyline through the transparent sections before plunging into darkness. The structure is made of 35,000 bolts and enough steel to make 265 double-decker buses. Sixty per cent of the Orbit is made from recycled steel, including washing machines Buckingham Palace and used cars. Mon-Fri 11amThe magnificent London residence 4.30pm; Sat-Sun 10am-5.30pm. and principal workplace of the Cutty Sark travelled the General entry: adult £12.50; child British monarchy has 775 rooms. equivalent of two and £7.50. Entry and slide: adult £17.50; a half voyages to the These include 19 state rooms, child £12.50. www.arcelormittal moon and back 52 royal and guest bedrooms, orbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic 188 staff bedrooms, 92 offices Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. and 78 bathrooms. In measurements, Off map. Station: Stratford. the building is 108 metres long across the Banqueting House front, 120 metres deep (including the central This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo quadrangle) and 24 metres high. It is normally Jones for King James I, with an exquisite painted closed to the public, though it’s possible to tour ceiling by the celebrated baroque artist Peter the state rooms and garden during the summer, Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the or on occasional exclusive tours. The Changing the Palace of Whitehall, which was destroyed by fire.

Guard ceremony, during which one regiment takes King Charles I was executed on a specially built over from another to protect the Queen and the scaffold outside Banqueting House on 30 January palace, takes place in the forecourt on most 1649. His death is commemorated in a special mornings from 10am; check online for full schedule. service held here every year on the anniversary. www.rct.uk/buckinghampalace. The Mall, Daily 10am-5pm, but call before visiting. Adult SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A Green Park/Victoria.

2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

DID YOU KNOW?

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a petting farm and a play area equipped with a large sandpit, wooden fort and life-sized tractor, fire engine and helicopter. You can attend feeding sessions during the day to watch animals such as otters, meerkats and monkeys as they eat (monkey-feeding sessions during weekends and school holidays only). Other animals include wallabies, emus and snakes. Daily 10am-4.30pm or dusk. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826.

Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Changing the Guard

Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather).

During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, which during the course of the ceremony becomes the Queen’s Guard, marches to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; please check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/ Green Park.

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry.

References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73.

AL GLOBIAL SPEC

‘ The Cutty Sark is a reminder of how London became a star on the world stage’

H

ere at Where London we are, naturally, the first to say that this city is at the centre of the world. But it’s more than that: London is at the centre of time itself.

Mean Time was established in 1884 at the

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

CUTTY SARK © NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

Cutty Sark

Royal Observatory in Greenwich (p. 28), with a simple line that divides the entire earth between east and west. So, if you weren’t sure what GMT stood for – Greenwich Mean Time – or why it was named Greenwich, now you know. Visit to stand on both sides of the world simultaneously.

Greenwich is also where you’ll find the Cutty Sark (p. 22), which is a reminder of how London became a star on the world stage.

It was the fastest tea clipper in 1869 and the driving force behind the country’s quest to bring Asia to the west. Step on board – and beneath the hull – to hear its amazing story.

The eyes of the world fell on Stratford’s Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (p. 28) in 2012, when London became the only city to host the modern summer Olympics three times. If there was one place in the world where all people felt welcome, it was here.

Today, the London Legacy Corporation works to ensure that this spirit lives on. For example, the park includes art from around the world, such as New Yorker Miya Ando’s Since 9/11 sculpture near the Aquatics Centre, using steel recovered from Ground Zero.

At Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew (p. 24), you’ll find plants from all over the world.

Milder climates are covered by Temperate House, which reopened last year after a major refurbishment. Many specimens are threatened in their natural environments – the Dombeya Mauritiana tree is almost extinct in Mauritius and Kew is now the only place where it’s grown.

One of the most striking sights in London?

Chinatown, which is somewhat hidden among the high-octane highways of Shaftesbury Avenue and Leicester Square. It’s a sprawling spread of East Asian culture, from bubble teas to karaoke joints. As we enter the Year of the Pig, find out more on a China Exchange walking tour (2, 5 & 19 Feb; www.chinatown.co.uk). www.wheretraveler.com 21

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SIGHTSEEING The Charterhouse

Chiswick House & Gardens

Dr Johnson’s House

Dating back to 1348, this historic location was originally a burial site during the Black Death, before becoming an almshouse in 1611. Previously hidden in plain sight by a high border wall, the handsome Charterhouse has only been open to the public since 2017. There’s a museum about its past, while visitors can also attend evening services in its tiny, curious chapel. Tours must be booked to visit the rest of the site, as it is still home to a small community of retired residents, the Brothers. 24 Feb: Family Tour. This childfriendly version of the tour admits two children for free with each paying adult; 11am-11.45am or noon-12.45pm. Tue-Sun 11am-5.30pm; approximately three tours per day. Museum and chapel admission free; standard tour from £10; Brothers’ tour from £15. www.thecharterhouse.org.

Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 020-3818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.

With neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy, this beautiful manor house is closed during winter. Its 18th-century restored gardens remain open, however, and were the inspiration for Blenheim Palace and New York’s Central Park. House closed to 1 Apr; gardens daily 7am-dusk; admission free. www.chgt.org.uk.

Chiswick House & Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-3141 3350. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. The current exhibition, Curious Travellers: Dr Johnson and Thomas Pennant on Tour, explores how Johnson and his contemporary Pennant toured Scotland and Wales to become pioneers of the travel-writing genre. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

Cutty Sark

Eltham Palace & Gardens

Climb on board the world’s last surviving tea clipper, which is located in Greenwich.

Meet the colourful characters from Cutty Sark’s past and discover stories of life on board the fastest ship of her day (p. 20). Daily 10am-5pm.

Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with the Royal Observatory available. Book online to save. www.rmg.co.uk. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s in this part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace. To 17 Feb palace & gardens Sun 10am-4pm; from 18 Feb daily 10am-4pm; closed 2 Mar. Adult £15; child £9. www.english-heritage. org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal varieties and tropical specimens in glasshouses.

To 3 Feb: Heralding Spring. During these extended opening hours, the garden will host theatre, walks, talks, workshops and its delightful annual snowdrop trail; 10am-4pm.

Check for times of free daily tours. Mon-Fri 11am-4pm, or dusk if earlier. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map.

Station: Sloane Square.

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Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. Silent Night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevers house.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Fulham Palace This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now it’s a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens and a programme of themed tours. 17 Feb: Garden Walk.

Guided tour of the garden and the rare plants that grow there; 12.30pm-1.30pm. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-3.30pm; Sun & bank hols noon-4pm; botanical gardens daily.

Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

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TOWER BRIDGE COURTESY OF TOWER BRIDGE BEHIND-THE-SCENES TOUR

UNDER THE BRIDGE It’s one of the most recognisable landmarks in the world, but how many people can say that they’ve been inside it? Well, you can, if you join a behind-thescenes tour of Tower Bridge (Sat-Sun to 24 Feb; p. 28). These personal guided walks explore much of the structure: you’ll go inside the towers, into the Victorian engine rooms and then down under the Thames, to walk inside massive chambers that are usually closed to the public. You will even have the chance to climb up and across the two elevated walkways that link the two towers – the walkways have glass floors, so you can see the traffic speed past underneath your feet.

It’s a breathtaking sight.

The two-hour tour costs £50 per person and booking in advance is essential.

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SIGHTSEEING Go Ape Alexandra Palace

Houses of Parliament

The Jewel Tower

A treetop obstacle course for kids with ladders, bridges and zip lines at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake nearby. Daily; check online for times prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map.

Station: Alexandra Palace.

See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a royal palace. Tours Sat. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; child-friendly family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114.

F8. Station: Westminster.

Built around 1365 to house King Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings.

Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience.

Check online for times and prices. www.goape. co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329.

Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with gardens that are said to be haunted. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. General admission daily noon-4pm; to 3 Feb garden, shop and café daily 10am-4pm; from 4 Feb garden, shop and café daily 10am5pm. Adult £11.05; child £5.50. www.nationaltrust. org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950.

Off map. Station: Richmond.

Handel & Hendrix in London Visit the former homes of the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was from 1968 to 1969 (p. 8). 2 Feb: Junior Harpsichord Competition. Watch under-19s perform during this contest; 2pm. 8 Feb: Hendrix Flat Friday Late. This party is dedicated to the music legend’s 1969 gig at the Royal Albert Hall; £25, 7pm. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live, free baroque music performances every Wed & Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm; Sat 2pm-4pm. Please check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £16.20; child £8.10. www.iwm.org.uk.

The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11.

Station: London Bridge.

YOUR CARRIAGE AWAITS It’s time for a vocabulary lesson: the word ‘mews’ is a centuries-old British term, which refers to stables that have been converted into a row of houses.

You’ll find them dotted around the city (Kensington has beautiful examples), but none of them are quite as fancy as Buckingham Palace’s. Emerging from its winter hibernation, The Royal Mews (from 1 Feb; p. 28) is the Queen’s road travel department. This child-friendly attraction is an opportunity to see the royal family’s extravagant carriages, including the magnificent Gold State Coach (below). Use the electronic, interactive tour guides for 360-degree views of selected carriage interiors and to hear more information – there’s even a recording tailored to kids. In addition, you could time a visit to coincide with its monthly events, which include an under-fives session (1 Feb) and an arts and crafts day (23 Feb).

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. To 28 Apr: Keats at Wentworth Place. A new exhibition exploring the poet’s time at this Hampstead address, where he met Brawne.

Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm; 30-min guided tours at 1.30pm & 3pm (subject to availability).

Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk.

Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868.

Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Dukes and Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex reside. The palace was originally a two-storey Jacobean mansion built by Sir George Coppin in 1605 in the ‘village’ of Kensington.

To 8 Feb: The Favourite Costume Display. Explore the wardrobe from the new feature film about Queen Anne, The Favourite.

To 17 Feb: Diana: Her Fashion Story.

This collection of famous outfits is dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-4pm.

Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map.

Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandts, Vermeers and Gainsboroughs.

Regular family events. Daily 10am-4pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood.

Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286.

Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe (p. 21), with Victorian tropical greenhouses, a Chinese pagoda and a treetop walkway that offers great views. The Hive is a multi-sensory experience designed to highlight the extraordinary life of bees. It stands 17 metres tall and is set in a wildflower meadow.

Don’t miss the Temperate House, which is the biggest Victorian glasshouse in the world and has reopened after a refurbishment.

From 9 Feb: Orchids: Celebrate the Colour of Colombia. The Princess of Wales Conservatory is dedicated to the country that boasts the world’s largest variety of species (p. 26). Enjoy dramatic arrangements and a pop-up café inspired

by Bogotá. Daily 10am5pm. Adult £13.50, child £4.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org.

Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655.

Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

GOLD STATE COACH © THE ROYAL COLLECTION/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II

Go Ape Battersea Park

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The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) welcomes the world’s travel & tourism industry

andriuXphoto.com

Preferred charity partner

Please visit the concierge desk during your stay - nobody knows the UK like Les Clefs d’Or.

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SIGHTSEEING

‘‘

Kew Gardens bursts into bloom

As a whole, Brits are notoriously bad with foreign languages, but at least the team at the Royal Botanical Gardens in Kew is having a go: ¡Hola Colombia! is the title of its annual Orchids Festival (from 9 Feb; p. 24), which has pointed its compass at Colombia. Kew Gardens is championing the country because it has the world’s largest variety of orchids. Colombia is also home to more species of birds than any other nation, a statistic reflected in one arrangement that resembles a flying toucan. The festival’s other stars include a swimming turtle and a hanging sloth, both crafted from tropical plants such as bromeliads (plants with spiked petals) and – of course – orchids.

‘‘

NEIL SIMPSON Sightseeing Editor

KidZania London

Coca-Cola London Eye

Madame Tussauds

Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour.

The early-years area means that younger siblings will have fun too. It hosts occasional adult nights.

Daily from 10am; closing times vary so please check; closed 4-5, 11-12 & 26-27 Feb. Advance: adult from £15; child from £18. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania.co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon.

Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000.

F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the film, the chance to stand with the royal family on Buckingham Palace’s balcony, or ‘Tom Hearty’: a model of actor Tom Hardy with a heartbeat.

Other recent additions include Mo Farah, the Duchess of Sussex and Yang Mi. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london.

Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177.

C6. Station: Baker Street.

Take part in an exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this scary attraction to life. Not for small children or the faint-hearted.

Tickets include admission to the London Tombs, located under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Check for times and prices. www.the londonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

On the site of Bloomberg’s new European headquarters, this cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago, to honour the god Mithras. The remains are brought to life through an immersive, multi-sensory experience. Discover more than 600 objects left by the very first Londoners, as well as modern art on the ground floor, at Bloomberg SPACE. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm; first Thur of the month 10am-8pm.

Admission free. www.londonmithraeum.com.

12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 020-7330 7500.

D10. Station: Bank.

The London Dungeon

ZSL London Zoo

The London Bridge Experience & London Tombs

This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past.

See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you thanks to costumed characters. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure!

Please check for times and prices. www.the dungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8.

Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions in the Land of the Lions enclosure and endangered Sumatran tigers. Daily, bookable events include Spiders Live, In with the Lemurs and Camel Chat, while the ‘Junior Keeper for a Day’ package allows visitors to meet and feed a variety of animals. Daily from 10am; please check online for closing times and prices. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk.

Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10.

Station: Monument.

The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions, including ICON, an all-new designer brand shopping outlet, as well as the latest trampoline park from Oxygen Freejumping. Stores include Kurt Geiger, Jack Wills and Osprey London. There is a vast array of restaurants including well-known chains as well as American, Brazilian and Thai food outlets. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

ORCHIDS FESTIVAL © RBG

London Mithraeum

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LONDON CURATING LUXURY FOR THE DISCERNING TRAVELLER

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SIGHTSEEING Old Royal Naval College

SEA LIFE London

St Paul’s Cathedral

This baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Check for guided tours. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich at the Visitor Centre. Daily 10am-5pm.

Admission free. www.ornc.org.

King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a beautiful glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission), while the Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. Check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama.

Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £20; child £8.50. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

Every morning at ZSL London Zoo, a keeper has to level out all the holes the aardvarks dig during the night

This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who resided here from 1875. A highlight is the costumed actor tours, every Saturday from 11am, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Open Wed, Sat & Sun; pre-booked tours 11am; drop-in 2pm-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower (p. 20). Please check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too.

Check the website for full programme of talks.

Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Royal Mews This beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses (p. 24). Learn about the mews’ history with the free multimedia guide, which includes games, a video of the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first journey and interactive, 360-degree photography of the Gold State Coach’s interior. Kids will enjoy learning how to harness a horse, as well as the busy programme of art sessions. Mon-Sat 10am-4pm. Adult £12; child £6.80; under-fives free. www.royalcollection.org.uk/royalmews.

Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

Royal Observatory Stand astride the historic Prime Meridian, where east meets west, to take your place at the centre of the world (p. 20). Uncover the history of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and see clocks and timepieces that have completely changed how we live. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £15; child £6.50. Joint tickets with Cutty Sark available.

Book online to save. Audio guide tour available. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark

Shrek’s Adventure!

Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-talethemed shows where you can meet the characters from the films. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837.

F8. Station: Waterloo.

St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. A vibrant waterside destination, it’s lined with regular markets, shops, The Alexander Miles Gallery and restaurants including CAU, Dokke, Bravas Tapas, Zizzi and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. www.skdocks.co.uk.

50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map.

Station: Tower Hill.

St Martinin-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre, live classical music (some free) and art exhibitions. Classical music performed weekly by candlelight. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Enjoy London’s skyline from the top of The Shard

Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand – but much older – neighbour, London Bridge). You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide (p. 23) and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Please check for bridge lift times. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761.

E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels.

Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-4.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-4.30pm. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11.

Station: Tower Hill.

Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2. co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680.

Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free.

Alternatively, you can make a Saturday night of it at a silent disco on 23 Feb; £37.50, book online. Open daily, please check online for times and special events. Advance adult £27.20, child £21.25; on the day adult £32, child £25. www.theviewfrom theshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

AARDVARK © ISTOCK; THE SHARD © THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD

18 Stafford Terrace

DID YOU KNOW?

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SIGHTSEEING Warner Bros. Studio Tour London

Wellington Arch

Westminster Abbey

Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. A fascinating insight into film-making. 9-25 Feb: Introducing the Art Department. Meet members of the films’ art team, as they share technical drawings, demonstrate how they make wands and more. Please check for times. Adult £43; child £35. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch was originaly built as an entrance to Buckingham Palace and it later became a victory arch proclaiming Wellington’s defeat of Napoleon. Crowned by the largest bronze sculpture in Europe, it depicts the Angel of Peace descending on the ‘Quadriga’ – or four-horsed chariot – of War. Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726.

F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. In 2018 the abbey unveiled its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millennium, a new tower that leads to The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, the new exhibition space tells the story of the abbey through more than 300 objects. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-2pm. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only, adult £22; child £9. Abbey and The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, adult £27; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Visitors can watch the otters and birds being fed every day, while there are also daily ‘Spotlight’ talks on various subjects. 16 Feb: Valentine’s Walk & Dinner. Join a sunset walk with a warden before a candlelit meal for two. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £12.72; child £7.72. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

WINDSOR CASTLE

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Approximately 10 free, themed walking tours per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn, an area also known as Midtown.

1 Feb, 1pm, Chancery Lane Station: Regicide.

Discover how the English Civil War played out in this part of London, including the execution of King Charles I. 8 Feb, 12.30pm, Farringdon Station: Plague and Fire. Learn more about two of the city’s darkest moments: the Black Death and the Great Fire of London. The full walks programme is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage; most walks do not require pre-booking. www.bee-midtown.org.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077.

EXTRA WEEKS ADDED

Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise. Adult £37; child £19. www.bigbus tours.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7808 6753.

ROYAL ALBERT HALL © ISTOCK

BEE Midtown Guided Walks

19 January – 17 February 2019

©PA

Visit the iconic Royal Albert Hall (p. 33)

A special exhibition at Windsor Castle | Book online for guaranteed entry

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SIGHTSEEING Big Bus Walking Tours

Hairy Goat Photography Tours

Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas that can’t be reached by bus. Daily 10.30am. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from the Big Bus stop in Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.

Offering exploratory photography tours alongside personal, tailor-made or regular group workshops, the acclaimed Hairy Goat offers daytime and evening options. Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and the finer details of grand, old and new architecture, and the street and river scenes that make London a joy to photograph. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary.

T: 07540-832771.

Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people.

Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series.

There’s even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

City of London Guides Walks

Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the

infamous serial killer Jack the Ripper and the history of the East End. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience.

Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jackthe-ripper-tour.com. Exit 4, Aldgate East station.

T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.

Kia Oval Tours Take a tour of the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. This gives you the chance to discover its architecture, history and famous sporting faces. Please check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. Kia Oval, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market and several City gardens, all within London’s historic Square Mile.

Prices range from free to £12.50. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary.

Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Brighton.

The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7630 2039.

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes an English-speaking guide who will describe the sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus.

Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.golden tours.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7630 2039.

Includes Russia, Royalty and the Romanovs and Roger Fenton’s Photographs of the Crimea, 1855

9 November 2018 – 28 April 2019 www.rct.uk +44 (0)303 123 7301 www.wheretraveler.com 31

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SIGHTSEEING London Chocolate Tours

The London Helicopter Tour

London Literary Pub Crawl

Sample truffles and ganaches in some of Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers and truffle makers on this tour devised by a former coffee and cocoa commodity trader. Along the way you’ll learn how chocolate is made and the history of the product. Booking is essential. Private tours for smaller groups are also available. The same company also offers a Gelato and Ice Cream tour.

Sun 12.30pm; tours last two hours 30 minutes. £15 for Where London readers (usually £40). www.tourguides.org.uk. Green Park station, by exit closest to The Ritz hotel. T: 020-8526 7755.

E6. Station: Green Park.

Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, you’ll glide above the River Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including St Paul’s Cathedral, the Tower of London and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Combine your tour with different experiences: a post-flight glass of Champagne; a picnic in Kew Gardens; or a tour of Highclere Castle in Berkshire, where Downton Abbey is filmed. Prices start at £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 3BE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity The Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British film industry and contemporary writers. Sat 5pm. Tickets £24; booking strongly advised. www.londonliterary pubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

London Magical Tours Award-winning provider of private and scheduled group tours to London and its surroundings.

Discover the UK with your own tour team so you will have no parking worries – you’ll have a professional guide and extra chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle. Multilingual guides are available in all languages. www.londonmagical tours.com. Departure points vary. T: 0870-489 0156.

London Tailored Tours The motto of this tour group is that one size doesn’t fit all. They arrange private tours for small groups, run by Londoners. Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter, London Sports, Girls Day Out and A Royal Morning in London. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com. T: 07498-036295.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

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Visit Westminster Abbey, which is where the royal wedding of William and Kate took place (p. 30)

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SIGHTSEEING Neverland Children’s Tours

Twizy Tours

Westways Carriage Horses

Offering fully supervised activities and adventures for children aged eight and over, the aim of Neverland Children’s Tours is to make London sightseeing interactive and fun. Each guided activity is balanced by opportunities to get creative, chill out, play and meet new friends. www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. T: 0203239 5059. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy, then drive yourself through the streets of London accompanied by an entertaining, GPS-guided audio tour. Alternatively, rent an adorable Twizy without the audio tour and roam freely at your own pace. The tours combine cutting-edge technology with immersive entertainment. You can stop and take photos during the tour, which makes it great for photo opportunities. You must be aged between the ages of 21 and 75 years old to hire a Twizy. Prices from £30 per rental. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363, D5.

Station: Marble Arch.

Get collected from your hotel by a coach driver and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Tours last up to two hours in either a four- or six-seater carriage, with an adjustable hood to accomodate any weather. £550 per carriage. www.westways carriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.

Original London Sightseeing Walk Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm, and Jack the Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. www.theoriginaltour.com.

17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722.

E7. Station: Charing Cross.

RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster

The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. Winter offer: all 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets extended by 24 hours for free until 28 Feb. www.theoriginaltour.com.

17-19 St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 10am-4pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.50. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Opera House Tours One of the world’s leading opera venues amd home to the Royal Ballet company. A variety of tour options offer access to the auditorium, the Royal Retiring Room and even backstage as the Opera House prepares for that evening’s performance. Backstage Tour, most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, £12-£15; Velvet, Gilt and Glamour Tour, selected days 4pm, £12-£15; Covent Garden Legends and Landmarks Tour, 4-6 & 10 Feb only, 12.30pm or 2pm, £10-£13. www.roh.org. uk/tours. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT. The all-new Chelsea FC Museum and Tour experience.

Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital.

There are regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.see londonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs, while its Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a separate, candlelit performance space. The half-hour tour begins every 30 minutes, after which you may browse the Globe’s exhibition.

Daily 9.30am-5pm; exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 0207902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

TOURS AVAILABLE IN 12 LANGUAGES

VISIT CHELSEAFC.COM/TOURS FOR MORE INFORMATION. 02514

WESTMINSTER ABBEY © ISTOCK

Shakespeare’s Globe

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SIGHTSEEING Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Mon-Fri departures 11am-3pm, Sat-Sun departures 11am-3.40pm.

This cruise is full of London landmarks, including the iconic Tower of London and Tower Bridge.

Points of interest will be pointed out in entertaining and informative commentary. The three boats that make up the Circular Cruise fleet are the Sapele, Mercuria and Sarah Kathleen. Adult single £10.25, return £15.25; child single £6.50, return £10. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises

London Eye River Cruise

Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. There is a special Valentine’s Day romantic dinner cruise, which includes music from a live band and half a bottle of wine each while you enjoy your three-course dinner. Other cruises also available. Check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-4.45pm; 9-17 Feb daily 10.45am-5.45pm. Adult £13.50; child £10.

Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise.

London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. E8.

Station: Waterloo.

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MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to find out your location, and gives a real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off (valid all day from 9am) advance adult £17.80, child £8.90; on the day adult £19.80, child £9.90; children under five travel free. Adult single journeys from £4.80. www.mbnathamesclippers.com. Various points along River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10.20am-3pm; from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11.20am-4pm.

Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices. london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 4097. F8. Station: Westminster/ Waterloo.

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Try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one.

Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in.

Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com.

Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400.

Station: Westminster.

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask.

From 7 Feb: Jeff Koons.

Watch Changing the Guard (p. 20)

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SIGHTSEEING Curated in partnership with the artist, explore 17 artworks dating from the 1980s to the present day.

To 24 Feb: Antinous: Boy Made God. When Antinous drowned in the Nile in AD 130, Egypt’s emperor founded a city named after him.

Discover how this boy’s posthumous image grew to God status through busts, statues and more.

To 7 Apr: Lui Shou-Kwan Centenary Exhibition.

Celebrating 100 years since the birth of the Hong Kong artist, who is famous for his Chinese ink paintings. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org.

Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278 000.

Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Leeds Castle

Osterley Park and House

Leeds Castle has been a Norman stronghold, the private property of six of England’s medieval queens and a palace, used by King Henry VIII and his first wife Catherine of Aragon. This fairy-tale, 900-year-old structure with a moat, gardens and parkland provides a fun day out for all of the family. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, visit the Birds of Prey Centre and watch a falconry display in the castle grounds. Grounds and garden daily 10am-5pm; castle 10.30am-4pm.

Adult £25.50; child £17.50; under-fours free. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. There’s a programme of park runs too, for adults and children. To 24 Feb: Made for the Table. Exploring the evolution of silver tableware from 1600 to today, including a rare chance to view Osterley’s collection; 11am-4pm. To 24 Feb garden daily 10am-4pm, selected house sections open for Made for the Table; from 25 Feb garden daily 10am-5pm, full house daily 11am-4pm. Adult £11.40; child 5.70. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens.

From 10 Feb: Art and the Churchill Family.

This exhibition showcases Winston Churchill’s own Impressionist-style oil paintings. 21-24 Feb: The Cotswolds Art & Antiques Dealers’ Association (CADA) Fair. Browse furniture, pictures, sculpture, glass, jewellery, ceramics and more, with prices starting at £100. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6pm or dusk; formal gardens daily 10.30am-4.45pm. Adult £27; child £15.50. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map.

Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

THE BEST VIEWS OF LONDON

Chartwell The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill. While Churchill and his wife Clementine were still living here, it was bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation. The house is now closed for the winter, but it is still possible to enjoy the lovely kitchen garden, woodlands and restaurant.

Garden and restaurant daily 10am-4pm. Adult £7.20; child £3.60. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868 381. Off map. Station: London Bridge or Victoria to Edenbridge or Oxted.

Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland beside the Thames. Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, then see Henry’s grand state apartments including the Great Hall.

Daily 10am-4.30pm; Great Hall closed 27-29 Feb. Adult £22.70; child £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk.

Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

CHANGING THE GUARD © VISIT LONDON/PAWEL LIBERA

Hever Castle and Gardens Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful castle was the childhood home of Henry VIII’s second wife, Anne Boleyn. The Tudor castle has magnificent interiors, the work of the Astor family. There’s a lake in the castle’s gardens, too.

From 9 Feb: Snowdrop Walk. Approximately 80,000 snowdrop bulbs burst into life, creating a trail through the gardens. Closed until 8 Feb; from 9 Feb Wed-Sun 10.30am-4.30pm, castle from noon; from 18 Feb daily 10.30am-4.30pm, castle from noon; from 27 Feb Wed-Sun 10.30am-4.30pm, castle from noon. Adult £17.75; child £9.95. www.hevercastle. co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map. Station: London Victoria or London Bridge to Edenbridge.

BOOK IN ADVANCE AND SAVE Speak to your hotel concierge today theviewfromtheshard.com

Open daily from 10 am till late

London Bridge

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SIGHTSEEING Palace of Holyroodhouse

Waddesdon Manor

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Explore the Palace’s close associations with some of Scotland’s most well-known historic figures such as Mary, Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie, and learn how it is used today by the Queen when carrying out official engagements in Scotland. Tour highlights include the state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber.

Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royalcollection.org.uk/palaceof holyroodhouse. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306.

Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and an aviary. The house is now closed for winter; grounds only Sat-Sun & 18-22 Feb 10am-4pm.

Grounds only adult £10.80; child £5.40. Grounds tickets may be purchased on arrival. www. waddesdon.org.uk. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is over 5,000 years old.

With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive, early-morning tours. Visit the world-class exhibition and visitor centre with 250 ancient objects and come faceto-face with a 5,500-year-old man. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. To 21 Apr: Making Connections: Stonehenge in its Prehistoric World. In collaboration with The British Museum, this display of precious objects reveals the habits of those alive when Stonehenge was built.

Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Warwick Castle

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village

DID YOU KNOW? The waxwork of the Queen that is currently on display at Madame Tussauds is the 23rd to have been made. Images of the clay head were sent to Buckingham Palace during the creative process

Built in 914 by Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great, then enhanced

by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Its past is brought to life with free tours by the castle’s history team, displays of medieval weaponry, the Winter Birds of Prey show and the Horrible Histories maze. The trebuchet (a colossal catapult) is an authentic recreation of one of the biggest and most deadly military machines of all time. The trebuchet was used to hurl huge projectiles to breach the castle walls.

Open daily, subject to weather; please check for times. Castle adult £20, child £18; castle & dungeon adult £24, child £21. www.warwickcastle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. T: 0871-265 2000. Off map. Station: Warwick.

An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures.

Visit the Tea Shop, then wander to the Grade I-listed Watts Chapel nearby. Look out for regular tours, where you’ll learn about the people who visited and the creative and cultural life of the founders, as well as their contemporaries and the local community they welcomed.

Tue-Sun & banks hols 10am-4pm.

Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.wattsgallery.org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle

The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. This is where Harry and Meghan wed.

To 17 Feb: A Royal Wedding: The Duke and Duchess of Sussex. See the couple’s wedding outfits on display, including Meghan’s diamond and platinum bandeau tiara and Harry’s frockcoat uniform of the Household Cavalry.

Daily 10am-4.15pm. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk/windsorcastle.

Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304.

Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a tour and a peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel and more.

Museum and self-guided tours Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; check for matchrelated closures. Legends Tours from 11am onwards (check for dates and times). Self-guided: adult £23; child £15. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20.

Free admission to museum. www.arsenal.com/tours.

Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 0207619 5003. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today. The exhibition Feliks Topolski: Drawing Debden reveals how banknotes were made.

Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House The last remaining home of the American founding father. Architectural tours Mon noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm; Historical Experience show Wed-Sun noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm.

Architectural tour: adult £6; child free. Historical Experience: adult £8; child free. www.benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Body Worlds Body Worlds recently opened this new flagship, which explores how every part of the human body works. Sun-Thur 9.30am-7pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-9pm.

Advance adult £24.50, child £17.50; on the day adult £28, child £22. www.bodyworlds.co.uk.

The London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. E7 Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The British Museum

The Design Museum

Collection of permanent displays and treasures.

To 24 Feb: I am Ashurbanipal: King of the World, King of Assyria. The story of Ashurbanipal, who ruled the vast, ancient empire of Assyria until 627 BC. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm.

Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

One of the world’s leading museums of modern design and architecture. To 24 Mar: Home Futures.

In partnership with IKEA Museum, this looks at past predictions for future housing. Daily 10am-6pm; first Fri of the month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org.

224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Charles Dickens Museum

Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan.

Afternoon tea is served in the muraled orangery.

Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £5; child £3. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote. To 21 Apr: Food Glorious Food: Dinner with Dickens. See a room set for a Victorian dinner. TueSun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £4.50. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Tours & Museum Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and ex-players tours (from £70). Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelsea fc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified secret bunker where Prime Minister Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £22; child £11. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Clink Prison Museum In this former prison dating back to 1144, you can see instruments of torture. It’s said to be haunted.

Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Fan Museum

Fashion and Textile Museum Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day.

From 8 Feb: Swinging London: A Lifestyle Revolution. Celebrating the work of the darlings of the ‘Chelsea Set’ (p. 10). Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 11am6pm; Thur 11am-8pm; Sun 11am-5pm; closed between exhibitions. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Florence Nightingale Museum Learn about the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and Mary Seacole. Free 15-min tour Mon-Fri 3.30pm, Sat-Sun 11.30am & 3.30pm. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florencenightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 4400. F8. Station: Waterloo.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children, founded in 1739. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm.

Adult £10; child free. www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk.

40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600.

C8. Station: Russell Square.

‘‘

Sketches on tour

You may complain about the number of candles on your birthday cake, but at least you haven’t got 500. That’s how old Leonardo da Vinci would have been this year, so the Royal Collection is paying tribute to the Renaissance master. The royal family’s art team possesses a large number of his drawings and 144 are being sent out for shows around the UK. Leonardo da Vinci: A Life in Drawing (from 1 Feb) will cover his studies of architecture, anatomy and botany. The 12 cities showing 12 drawings include Glasgow and Liverpool – places to keep in mind if you’re planning a trip beyond the capital. If you’re back in London in May, remember that all 144 will be on display at The Queen’s Gallery (p. 42). As curator Anne Stewart says, it’s like ‘looking over Leonardo’s shoulder as he’s drawing’.

‘‘

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73.

LEONARDO DA VINCI SKETCH © ROYAL COLLECTION; NELSON MANDELA © PETER MOREY

MUSEUMS

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Nelson Mandela

GLOB SPECI AL AL

‘This Mandela exhibition is planning to tour the world, but is debuting in Waterloo’

T

he British Museum is famed for its objects from every corner of the earth, while diverse artists and subjects hang on The National Gallery’s walls. But if you dig deeper into London, you’ll find that its global influence spreads much further.

An exhibition that is planning to tour the world is debuting in Waterloo. Mandela: The Official Exhibition (from 8 Feb) tells Nelson Mandela’s life story in collaboration with the Royal House of Mandela, which works to underline the late statesman’s royal bloodline in his native South Africa.

‘Visitors will leave with an understanding

of Mandela’s life in richer detail,’ says the exhibition’s producer, Steve Swaby (www.mandelaexhibition.com).

Art from across the Atlantic is celebrated in Diane Arbus: In the Beginning at the Hayward Gallery (from 13 Feb; p. 42).

It follows the New Yorker’s early years, from 1956 to 1962, when she photographed NYC’s marginalised communities.

London is also home to the Black Cultural Archive. Located on Brixton’s Windrush Square (named after the ship Empire Windrush, which brought people from the Caribbean and beyond), it is dedicated to preserving

the history of the UK’s African and Caribbean communities (www.blackculturalarchives.org).

The House of Illustration’s exhibition, Journeys Drawn: Illustration from the Refugee Crisis (to 24 Mar; p. 40), depicts epic journeys made by migrants – some of the pieces were drawn by refugees themselves.

Meanwhile, Cuba’s Tania Bruguera presents her own take on the global migration crisis with an installation in Tate Modern (to 24 Feb; p. 43).

The title, 10,145,987, may have changed by the time this feature is printed: the number rises every time a migrant dies.

NEIL SIMPSON Museums & Galleries Editor www.wheretraveler.com 39

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Garden Museum

Leighton House Museum

The Museum of Freemasonry

Located in an historic church, this is the last resting place of plant hunters John Tradescant Snr and Jnr. Sun-Fri 10.30am-5pm; Sat 10.30am-4pm; closed first Mon of the month. Adult £10; child £2.50 (when accompanied by an adult). www.gardenmuseum. org.uk. Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7LB. T: 020-7401 8865. F5. Station: Westminster.

The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm; 3pm tour every Wed and Sun (included in price). Adult £9; child free. www.rbkc. gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

The Guards Museum

Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles, including the Aston Martin DB5. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

English Freemasonry emerged in the 1700s and is celebrated at this little-known museum and library.

Its current exhibition, Bejewelled: Badges, Brotherhood and Identity, presents an array of beautiful Masonic badges (known as ‘jewels’). Mon-Sat 10am-5pm.

Admission free. www.freemasonry.london.museum.

Freemasons’ Hall, Great Queen St, WC2B 5AZ. T: 020-7395 9257. D8. Station: Holborn.

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon the tea trader, Frederick John Horniman. Its World Gallery recently opened, revealing a 600 sqm space. To 17 Mar: Evolution of The Artist and The Exhibited Works. Shauna Richardson’s life-sized animals. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake.

To 24 Mar: Journeys Drawn: Illustration from the Refugee Crisis. Illustrators display work inspired by recent journeys made by refugees (p. 39). Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration. org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes to see the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Museum daily 10am-5pm. Adult £8; child £6. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk.

Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster.

Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to contemporary confrontations, particularly those involving Britain. The Making a New World season marks 100 years since the end of World War I. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5.

Station: Lambeth North.

Jack the Ripper Museum In this house you’ll learn the history of east London and key moments in the killer’s rampage.

Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; child £8. www.jacktherippermuseum. com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 020-7488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a representation of the East End’s Jewish quarter.

Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk.

Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map.

Station: Camden Town.

London Transport Museum This museum displays the story of London’s transport. The Secret Life of a Megaproject explores Crossrail, Europe’s biggest infrastructure project. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising Discover how brands changed over time via toys, magazines, travel and fashion. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child £5. www.museumofbrands.com. 111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.

SMALL BUT PERFECTLY FORMED Do you love dolls’ houses, model villages and trainers for toddlers?

Then visit the National Portrait Gallery and its exhibition, Elizabethan Treasures: Miniatures by Hilliard and Oliver (from 21 Feb; p. 42). During the Tudor and Jacobean eras, the fashion for mini portraits was at fever pitch, with artists Nicholas Hilliard and Isaac Oliver emerging as masters of this art form. These miniatures were called ‘limnings’ and often worn as jewellery, or used to express relational ties.

See depictions of Elizabeth I, Walter Raleigh and Francis Drake (left).

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits, which transport you through the capital’s history. The Votes for Women display contains Suffragette artefacts. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for exhibitions and tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Museum of London Docklands The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands. 2-3 Feb: Chinese New Year Festival.

This family-friendly programme includes martial arts and storytelling. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museum oflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map.

Station: West India Quay.

National Army Museum Interactive displays and exhibitions telling the story of soldiers’ lives from Tudor times to the present day. Daily 10am-5.30pm and until 8pm on 5 Feb. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.nam.ac.uk. Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HT. T: 020-7730 0717. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

National Maritime Museum Get up close to the objects that made history, from iconic maritime exhibits to great British art.

Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

Natural History Museum Astounding collections at this family museum, with exhibits including dinosaur skeletons.

To 30 Jun: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. See this year’s shortlist of 100 entries. Daily 10am-5.50pm.

Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

The Postal Museum This museum includes old post boxes, delivery bikes and uniforms. Take a ride on the Mail Rail, which used to transport post for 75 years. The Voices from the Deep exhibition shares personal letters rescued from a ship that sank during World War II. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum only: Adult £11, child free.

Museum and Mail Rail: Adult £17.05, child £10.45. www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Queen’s House This royal villa was designed by Inigo Jones and is a masterpiece of 17th-century architecture. Enjoy its spectacular art and architecture. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charge for guided tour. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the RAF, with more than 100 outstanding aircrafts, including a model of an F-35 fighter jet. Daily 10am-5pm.

Admission free; charges for experiences. www.raf museum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

ANNE OF DENMARK BY ISAAC OLIVER AND SIR WALTER RALEIGH BY NICHOLAS HILLIARD © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY

The history, stories and regimental heritage of the Foot Guards. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park.

London Film Museum

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‘‘

J’adore Dior

There aren’t many names in fashion that generate as much swooning as Christian Dior. From Granville in Normandy, the designer witnessed two world wars and in revealing his first couture collection in 1947, Dior ignited a new era of escapism for women’s fashion. Taking that first Paris show as its starting point, the Victoria and Albert Museum is paying tribute to everything that has come since with its exhibition, Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams (from 2 Feb).

As well as exploring the label’s huge influence, you’ll discover why Monsieur Dior loved England so much and even dressed the royal family - including Princess Margaret (right). Expect original sketches and vintage perfume bottles.

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PRINCESS MARGARET (1930-2002), PHOTO CECIL BEATON (1904-80), LONDON, UK, 1949. © CECIL BEATON, VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; BRITISH MUSEUM © ISTOCK

Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements. There’s a Red Arrows 3D flight simulator and an IMAX theatre showing 3D science films. To 6 May: The Sun: Living with our Star. More than 100 objects demonstrate how the sun has been harnessed by humans.

Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk.

Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4.

Station: South Kensington.

Sherlock Holmes Museum Famous address dedicated to the fictional detective where, according to the novels, he lived with his friend and colleague Dr Watson from 1881 until 1904. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. C5. Station: Baker Street.

Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century townhouse and library was owned

by Sir John Soane, who left it to the nation in 1837.

To 3 Feb: Code Builder. Come and see the Polibot, a futuristic construction robot which will be using digital code to build a model of Soane’s celebrated Bank of England ceiling dome.

Wed-Sun & bank hol, 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

Twinings Museum

Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities

The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition. See the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

This tiny museum in a former shop-turned-bar has weird and wonderful items. See quirky art, taxidermy and erotica – some explicit. Tue 3pm-10.30pm, Wed-Sun noon-10.30pm. Adult £6; child £3. www.the lasttuesdaysociety.org. 1 Mare Street, E8 4RP. T: 020-7998 3617. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

V&A Museum of Childhood

The Wallace Collection

Museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century.

To 17 Mar: Little Happenings: Photographs of Children by Dorothy Bohm. This celebrates childhood and how it connects us. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam.ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Enjoy this collection of Rococo art. Paintings include Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. Daily 10am-5pm.

Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

The Vault Part of the Hard Rock Cafe, this is home to iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm.

Admission free. www.hardrock.com.

Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6.

Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Somerset House

Victoria and Albert Museum

This neo-classical, 18th-century building on the Thames houses the Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants. 11-25 Feb: International Fashion Showcase 2019. See works by designers from around the world (p. 53). To 3 Mar: Good Grief, Charlie Brown! Fans of Charles M. Schulz’s Peanuts will enjoy this look at his original works. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.somersethouse. org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 0207845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

The V&A’s outstanding collection of fine art includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics.

From 2 Feb: Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams. Sketches, perfume bottles and dresses.

DID YOU KNOW? Norman Foster designed the British Museum’s celing. This courtyard is the largest covered public square in Europe

To 24 Feb:

Videogames: Design/Play/Disrupt.

Exploring the cultural impact of games. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk.

Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body.

To 3 Mar: Living with Buildings. Discover the relationship between human health and the spaces in which we live. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits from recent champions.

Temporary exhibition Through the Hoops: Croquet at Wimbledon charts the development of croquet, the first sport to be played on Wimbledon’s lawns. Tours of the grounds include Centre Court. Daily 10am5pm; closed from 25 Feb-7 Mar. Museum: adult £13; child £8. Museum & tour: adult £25; child £15. One child free with every full-price adult ticket. www. wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map.

Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk. www.wheretraveler.com 41

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES World Rugby Museum

Guildhall Art Gallery

Relaunched after a refurbishment, this showcase for global rugby culture is located in Twickenham.

Tue-Sat & selected bank hols 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Museum adult £12.50; child £7.50.

Museum and stadium tour adult £25; child £15. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.

Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces.

It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, which was discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket).

Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St. Paul’s/Bank.

GALLERIES

Hayward Gallery

Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Art Gallery and The Curve. To 7 Apr: Daria Martin: Tonight the World. Martin’s installation invites you to enter the world of her grandmother’s journals. Barbican Centre Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 11am-11pm. Art Gallery Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur-Fri 10am-9pm.

The Curve Sat-Wed 11am-8pm; Thur-Fri 11am-9pm.

Please check for prices. www.barbican.org.uk.

Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

Dulwich Picture Gallery England’s first public art gallery, founded in 1811, holds a great collection of Old Masters.

From 13 Feb: Harald Sohlberg: Painting Norway.

The gallery marks 150 years since the birth of the artist. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Adult £8.18; child free; charges for exhibitions. www.dulwich picturegallery.org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5254. Off map. Station: West Dulwich.

Estorick Collection Bijou gallery in a Grade-II-listed Georgian building, specialising in modern Italian art. Wed-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.estorickcollection.com. 39a Canonbury Square, N1 2AN. T: 020-7704 9522. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Getty Images Gallery With access to the Getty archive of approximately 70 million photographs, this displays and sells shots from as far back as the 1850s. Mon-Fri 10am-5.30pm, Sat noon-5.30pm. Admission free. www.getty imagesgallery.com. 46 Eastcastle St, W1W 8DX. T: 020-7291 5380. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

One of the nation’s most prominent galleries, more than 150 years old, including works depicting famous British people in paintings and photographs.

To 3 Feb: Gainsborough’s Family Album. Uniting 12 portraits of the British artist’s daughters, alongside an exhibition of family paintings by this much-admired portraitist.

From 21 Feb: Elizabethan Treasures: Miniatures

by Hilliard and Oliver. Inspect the work of these two English artists, who became masters of the late 16th century’s miniature portrait trend (p. 40). Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions.

The National Portrait www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, Gallery has the only WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7.

Shakespeare portrait Station: Leicester Square. painted from life

This recently refurbished gallery is the home of visual arts at the Southbank Centre, with regular exhibitions. The newly redeveloped pyramid skylights enable a light-filled space.

From 13 Feb: Diane Arbus: In the Beginning. The photographer’s early work, depicting New York City’s marginalised communities between 1956 and 1962 (p. 39). Mon, Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-7pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Free admission; charges for some exhibitions. www.southbankcentre.co.uk.

Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Damien Hirst’s huge gallery exhibits work from the modern artist’s extensive art collection.

Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newport streetgallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Lambeth North.

ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts)

The Photographers’ Gallery

Exhibitions of contemporary art and installations, plus a bar and restaurant, a bookshop and an art-house cinema. ICA galleries Tue-Sun 12pm-9pm; ICA building Tue-Thur & Sun noon-11pm, Fri-Sat noon-midnight. Adult £3; child free; no admission fee Tue. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.

London’s largest gallery devoted to photography.

To 24 Feb: All I Know is What’s on the Internet. Google Street View photographers and Amazon’s team explore how the internet is changing photography. Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun & bank hols 11am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £5; child free. www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

DID YOU KNOW?

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. Regular guided tours and talks.

To 10 Feb: Lorenzo Lotto Portraits.

This showcases the much-loved, individualistic style of the Italian Renaissance artist.

From 28 Feb: Boilly: Scenes of Parisian Life.

Discover images of the French Revolution and the era of Napoleon with Boilly’s vivid and energetic paintings. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Newport Street Gallery

The Queen’s Gallery This gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has exhibitions, often sourced from 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection (p. 38).

To 28 Apr: Russia: Royalty & the Romanovs. Discover the bond that developed between the British and Russian royal families during the 17th century.

Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.royalcollection.org.uk/queensgallerylondon.

Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7.

Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

‘‘

Life through the lens

Tate Britain is acknowledging a real London success story this season with Don McCullin (from 5 Feb; p. 43).

The photographer grew up in Finsbury Park and started out taking pictures of this northern area of the city in the 1950s – six decades later, he’s a knight of the realm. Sir Don McCullin made his name as a photojournalist working in war zones around the world, including Vietnam, Northern Ireland and Lebanon. Tate has collected more than 250 images, which range from his most famous depictions of conflict to his travel, documentary and still-life work.

Clearly still passionate about photography, the octogenarian travelled to Syria in 2017 to record the destruction wrought by the so-called Islamic State.

Visit to see striking and sombre portrayals of many of the 20th century’s darkest moments.

PROTEST AGAINST THE CUBAN MISSILE CRISIS AT WHITEHALL © DON MCCULLIN

Barbican Art Gallery

National Portrait Gallery

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Rivington Place Cutting-edge art gallery and space, dedicated to ethnically diverse visual arts. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm; Sat noon-6pm. Admission free. www.rivingtonplace.org. Rivington St, EC2A 3BA. T: 020-7749 1240. C11. Station: Old Street.

Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with RA Collection works in all media. In 2018 the site completed its bold redevelopment project, providing space for more free art and educational areas.

To 3 Feb: Klimt / Schiele: Drawings from the Albertina Museum, Vienna. Discover the greatness and working relationship of Egon Schiele and his mentor, Gustav Klimt. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm, Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events.

Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Green Park.

Royal Society of Sculptors Located within Old Brompton Road’s Dora House, this hub for professional sculptors hosts regular exhibitions on sculpture. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm, Sat noon-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors.org.uk.

108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 020-7373 8615. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road.

Saatchi Gallery Contemporary art in a huge, renovated Georgian building. All exhibitions are temporary.

To 17 Feb: Black Mirror: Art as Social Satire. Discover the twists and turns of contemporary politics have affected modern art, through the work of 26 artists. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery. co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Serpentine Gallery This gallery in Kensington Gardens has changing modern and contemporary exhibitions.

To 10 Feb: Pierre Huyghe: UUmwelt.

Filled with pieces that have been captured from the human brain, this is all about mental images.

Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-6pm; building open between exhibitions, but there is not a permanent collection. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries. org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Serpentine Sackler Gallery Arts space, formerly a gunpowder store, with a contemporary wing designed by Zaha Hadid.

Tue-Sun & bank hol 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. West Carriage Drive, Kensington Gardens, W2 2AR. T: 020-7402 6075. E4.

Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art, including the largest number of Turner paintings.

From 5 Feb: Don McCullin. More than 250 of the photojournalist’s images, ranging from his depictions of conflict to travel (p. 42). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern World-class, international modern art.

To 24 Feb: Hyundai Commission: Tania Bruguera. This responds to the migration crisis (p. 39). To 6 May: Pierre Bonnard: The Colour of Memory.

Celebrating the late French painter. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark. www.wheretraveler.com 43

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ENTERTAINMENT AL GLOBIAL C E SP

M

ost solo shows are either a flop or a hit, and fortunately Black is the Color of My Voice at Trafalgar Studio Two (from 5 Feb; p. 48) is the latter.

Written and performed by black American Apphia Campbell, it premiered in Shanghai before touring Edinburgh’s Festival Fringe, New York and London’s Wilton’s Music Hall, The Other Palace and Greenwich Theatre.

Inspired by the life of Nina Simone, it sees Campbell don Simone’s signature turban to play the fictional character Mena Bordeaux.

Depressed and seeking redemption after her father’s death, Bordeaux visits a witch

doctor who recommends she isolates herself for three days. During a detox, Bordeaux pulls mementoes from an old suitcase as she reflects on her family, former lovers, racism and her past, which began as a young piano prodigy destined for a life in church, before she became a renowned jazz singer and civil rights activist.

Black British actress Sharon D Clarke stars in the Olivier Award-winning musical Caroline, or Change at the Playhouse Theatre (p. 46). Tony Kushner (Angels in America) wrote the script, which is based on his book inspired by his childhood.

Set in 1960s Louisiana, the play focuses on maid Caroline. Eight-year-old Noah often visits her, but when he sneaks her some extra cash it sets off a chain of events just as the civil rights movement gathers pace.

Both performances are indicative of London’s diverse theatre scene, and West End blockbusters are no exception.

The Lion King (p. 46), Motown the Musical (p. 46) and Hamilton (p. 46) all feature a predominantly mixed cast. It just goes to show that when it comes to talent, the London stage is colour blind.

SARAH RICHES Entertainment Editor

Hamilton

HAMILTON © MATTHEW MURPHY

‘London has a diverse theatre scene, and West End blockbusters are no exception’

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PH ENOMENON

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MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £27.25£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

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As American as apple pie

The Adelphi Theatre has scored a UK premiere – the Tony Award-nominated Waitress (from 8 Feb). The musical, which has already been on Broadway, follows a waitress in a diner in a small American town who dreams of leaving her abusive husband – just as a baking contest and a handsome new doctor offer her a chance to escape. The show boasts a West End first: an all-female creative team.

Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 020-7087 7754. www.lwtheatres.co.uk. E8.

Station: Charing Cross/Embankment

‘‘

ENTERTAINMENT

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints.

Winner of four Olivier Awards including Best New Musical. Check for times. Tickets £25-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110.

E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Caroline, or Change Olivier Award-winning musical set in Louisiana in 1963 (p. 44). Please check for times. Tickets £20-£85. www.atgtickets.com. Playhouse Theatre, Northumberland Ave, WC2N 5DE. T: 0844-871 7631. E8. Station: Embankment.

Come from Away Despite the subject matter, this is an upbeat musical about a tight-knit community on a Canadian island rallying round to host 7,000 air passengers after the 9/11 terror attacks. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24-£108. www.phoenixtheatre london.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Company

Everybody’s Talking About Jamie Feel-good musical, based on a true story, about how a 16-year-old boy living on a council estate in Yorkshire overcomes bullies. If you liked Billy Elliot, you’ll love this. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingabout jamie.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Follies From 12 Feb: New York, 1971. A Broadway

theatre hosts a lavish party for its showgirls (p. 50).

Please check for times and prices. www.national theatre.org.uk. National Theatre, SE1 9PX. T: 0207452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Hamilton Set in the late 1700s, this hip-hop musical is a hit on Broadway. It’s based on Ron Chernow’s biography of the USA’s Founding Father, Alexander Hamilton, a poor, orphaned immigrant born in the Caribbean (p. 44). Check for times, prices and returns. www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138.

F6. Station: Victoria.

Les Misérables

Motown the Musical

The world’s longest-running musical, based on Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in postrevolutionary France. Check for times. Tickets £42.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160.

D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Feel-good musical based on the story of legendary Motown Records (p. 44). Check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399.

D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

The Lion King

Fun Dolly Parton musical about women who seek revenge on their sexist boss, starring Brian Conley. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £20-£150. www.9to5themusical.co.uk.

Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Spectacular adaptation of the popular Disney film, with amazing puppets and costumes (p. 44). Check for times. Tickets £23-£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA. MonSat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm (& 19 Feb). Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8.

Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers alike.

The humour is spot-on for adults and children.

Please check for times. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

9 to 5 The Musical

Only Fools and Horses: The Musical From 9 Feb: A new comical musical based on the hit British sitcom that ran throughout the 1980s and 1990s, about a loveable wheelerdealer trying to get rich. Please check for times.

Tickets £10-£110. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Check for times. Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomofthe opera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73.

WAITRESS © JOAN MARCUS

At Bobbie’s 35th birthday party, her friends wonder why she hasn’t got married and had kids; the lead role is reimagined as a woman. Features songs by Stephen Sondheim. Check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

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ENTERTAINMENT Harry Potter and the Cursed Child

Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and it’s a smash here, too. Mon & WedSat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£150. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com.

Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Father-of-three Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never really wanted. Check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com.

Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Thriller Live

A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. The play has a twist at the end, which the audience is traditionally asked not to reveal. Check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Check for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tina: The Tina Turner Musical A new musical based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, a farmgirl from Tennessee who went on to become superstar singer Tina Turner. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£149.50. www.tinathemusical.com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8.

Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.

Totem To 26 Feb: The French-Canadian circus Cirque du Soleil returns to the hall. Please check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com.

Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk.

Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

PLAYS All About Eve From 2 Feb: Gillian Anderson and Lily James star in this classic tale. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Black is the Color of my Voice From 5 Feb: A play-with-music inspired by the life of Nina Simone (p. 44). Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Sat 3pm. Check for prices. www.atgtickets.com.

Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.

The Comedy About a Bank Robbery Six incompetent crooks are desperate to get hold of a diamond. Check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time Award-winning play about an autistic boy trying to solve a mystery. Check for times and prices. www.piccadilly theatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Check for times. Tickets £67.50-£74.50. www.faultytowers-uk.com.

Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Mousetrap

ACT OF BETRAYAL If you’re a showbiz fan, now you can find out what really goes on behind the scenes in All About Eve at the Noël Coward Theatre (from 2 Feb). The new play is based on the 1946 production, The Wisdom of Eve, and the Oscar-winning 1950 film, which lifted the lid on the obsessive and jealous nature of characters in the industry. It brings together familiar faces: Gillian Anderson stars as ageing actress Margo, while her rival Eve – who is young, beautiful and ambitious – is played by Lily James. They star alongside Downton Abbey’s Julian Ovenden and Benidorm’s Sheila Reid, while Mercury Prize winner PJ Harvey provides the music.

Pinter Seven – A Slight Ache/ The Dumb Waiter To 23 Feb: Two comedies, directed

by Jamie Lloyd, explore the political machinations of the powerful and the powerless. The cast includes Danny Dyer and Martin Freeman. Please check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com.

Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery, where everything goes wrong.

Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm.

Tickets £20-£72. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com.

Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Price From 5 Feb: David Suchet stars in this Arthur Miller play, which premiered on Broadway in 1968, about two brothers who meet for the first time in 16 years. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2pm.

Tickets £14.75-£99.75. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk.

Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

True West To 23 Feb: Kit Harington and Johnny Flynn star as warring brothers in Pulitzer Prize-winner Sam Shepard’s funny, modern classic.

Mon-Sat 7pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Please check for prices. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814.

E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.

Witness for the Prosecution This show is based on Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama and is staged in a former courtroom. Please check for times. Tickets from £10-£79.50. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Please check for times. Tickets £21.50-£52. www.thewomaninblack. com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

DANCE Royal Opera House From 15 Feb: Don Quixote. Love and friendship triumph in Carlos Acosta’s vibrant production of this ballet. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sadler’s Wells 8-9 Feb: Sampled. Flamenco, hip-hop, African

and contemporary dance. 7.30pm. Please check for prices. www.sadlerswells.com.

Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000.

Off map. Station: Angel.

OPERA London Coliseum Home to the English National Opera.

Productions are sung in English.

From 11 Feb: Akhnaten. Philip Glass‘ mesmerising work. Check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

ALL ABOUT EVE © PEROU

School of Rock: The Musical

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ENTERTAINMENT

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church

Barbican 26 Feb: The Piano. Jane Campion’s Oscar-winning

film is screened alongside a live performance by the London Contemporary Orchestra. 8pm. Check for prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Royal Festival Hall

Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD

3 Feb: The great Romanian pianist Radu Lupu

The Jazz Cafe

performs Beethoven. 7.30pm. Tickets £12-£58. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8.

Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

5 Feb: The Delines. 14 Feb: The Soul of Nina Simone.

18 Feb: A Night of Whitney. www.thejazzcafe.

london.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514.

Off map. Station: Camden Town.

‘‘

The show goes on

D A I LY T E L E G R A P H , M E T R O , T H E S U N , D A I LY E X P R E S S , D A I LY M A I L

‘AN INSPIRATIONAL STORY...

A WHIRLWIND OF ELATION’ P A U L TAY L O R , I N D E P E N D E N T

THERE IS ONLY ONE

‘‘

★★★★★

A big budget, hero director, classic tunes and a score by an Academy, Tony, Grammy and Olivier Award-winning composer are a recipe for success. After the premiere of Follies in 1971, the musical has been around the globe and now it returns to the National Theatre (from 12 Feb; p. 46).

It’s directed by Dominic Cooke, the Royal Court’s former artistic director. Set in the Seventies, it sees a Broadway theatre host a lavish party for its showgirls on the night before it’s demolished, 30 years after their last performance. The stars dress in feather costumes, tap dance and sing Stephen Sondheim’s songs in one hell of a show.

The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 7 Feb: Boyzone.

9-10 Feb: Strictly Come Dancing – The Live Tour 2019. 11 Feb: Ozzy Osbourne. 22 Feb: Massive Attack. Check for times and prices. www.theo2. co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz and blues venue, which opened in 1959, has a basement club, restaurant and late bar. Jimi Hendrix’s last public performance took place here, in 1970. Please check for performance details. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

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3 Little Pig Tails 20-24 Feb: A new version of the classic story of

the three little pigs, set in Paris. Aimed at children aged three to eight. Adult £13; child £11. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com.

Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

FOLLIES © JOHAN PERSSON

THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL

From 20 Feb: Sneak behind the doors of an Art Deco hotel with Canadian contemporary circus troupe Cirque Éloize. Please check for times.

Tickets from £15. www.peacocktheatre.com.

The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. E8. Station: Holborn.

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SHOPPING

GLOB SPECI AL AL

Stanfords

W

hile many of London’s streets have British-sounding names, from Oxford Street to Cambridge Circus, the capital’s shops are filled with products from all around the world.

Arthur Liberty, the founder of Liberty (p. 53), spent many years travelling to Eastern parts of the world gaining inspiration and bringing back beautiful rugs and fabrics. The store’s haberdashery department – famous for its oriental furnishings and materials – is steeped in history, spanning more than 100 years.

Established in 1976, the Japan Centre (p. 55) is the ultimate one-stop shop for all things Japanese and, since 2017, the city is now home to a new flagship store

This cartographer’s paradise was established

by Edward Stanford, who began trading his maps and atlases in 1853. The shop is packed with guidebooks, inspirational travel writing and globes. It relocated last month after off Haymarket. Here you’ll find a huge range a century at the same Long Acre address, of authentic Japanese products, from sushi but don’t worry: it has moved just down and sake to seaweed and soy.

Meanwhile, Japan House, which opened last the road, map-patterned wallpaper and year on Kensington High Street, sells some of all (www.stanfords.co.uk).

Hidden down Cecil Court off Charing Cross the very best Japanese art and design products.

Road, you’ll find two great antiquarian map Immerse yourself in Japanese culture through shops: Bryars & Bryars and Storey’s. Both food, shopping, exhibitions, special events have knowledgeable staff who can take you and workshops (www.japanhouselondon.uk). through the historic atlases (www.bryarsand Londoners love tea, so it’s no surprise to find bryars.co.uk; www.storeysltd.co.uk). stores selling global varieties. At TWG, which was established 10 years ago in Singapore, there are hundreds of types on offer from JESSICA BROWNEall over the world (www.twgtea.com).

SWINBURNE If you’re looking for some direction, visit Contributor the world’s largest map shop, Stanfords.

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE GLOBE IMAGE COURTESY OF STANFORDS

‘The capital’s shops are filled with fine products from all around the world ’

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‘‘

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS

Fashion goes global

Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Following a bespoke programme of creative guidance and business development by industry experts over the past year at Somerset House, 16 selected designers from across the world will show off their final pieces at the International Fashion Showcase (11-25 Feb; p. 41).

These emerging makers have been given the unique opportunity to hone their skills, receiving professional support they would be unlikely to get in their home countries. The chosen designers, one of whom will be picked by a panel of cultural and commercial fashion experts as the winner of the showcase, represent countries including Bangladesh, Lebanon, Sri Lanka, India, Kenya and Uruguay.

The showcase will reflect the cultural roots of each talented artist, which play a pivotal part in what inspires them.

Canary Wharf This is a first-class shopping destination in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands.

Off map. Station: Canary Wharf.

Carnaby Here you can find sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and souvenir stalls.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

King’s Road This iconic street attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square bustles with restaurants, clothes shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

‘‘

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores, plus high-street chains. D6/D7.

Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.

Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for men’s tailoring, especially suits. E7. Station: Green Park.

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall.

Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys Huge toy shop spread over seven floors, with high-tech and retro toys. Check for times. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods BANGLADESH’S RAHEMUR RAHMAN © GARETH WRIGHTON

GLOBE IMAGE COURTESY OF STANFORDS

SHOPPING

Edwardian food and meat halls, as well as a great range of fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Marks & Spencer

Chanel

Trusted source for lingerie, clothes and food (multiple branches around London). Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer. com. 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954.

D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs and products. www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB (and branches). T: 020-7493 5040. E6.

Station: Green Park.

Selfridges

Add a little ooh-la-la to your wardrobe with a pair of red-soled shoes. www.christianlouboutin.com.

17 Mount St, W1K 2RJ (and branches). T: 020-7491 0033. E6. Station: Green Park.

This is the largest shop on Oxford Street. Visit for the finest products in beauty and fashion.

Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

LUXURY ARCADES Burlington Arcade Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade contains specialist shops. Each morning it opens with a gate ceremony. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

FASHION

John Lewis & Partners

Alexander McQueen

Find fashion labels, homeware and electricals.

Check for times. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711.

D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Flagship boutique with a collection of ready-towear clothes, bags and shoes. www.alexander mcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.

Liberty

Burberry

Famous for its prints and haberdashery department (p. 52). Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Find a classic trench coat by this British label. It has a monogramming service. www.burberry.com.

121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches). T: 0207806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Christian Louboutin

Gucci One of the world’s most desirable brands, with legendary Italian quality. Find the perfect GG handbag at this London flagship. www.gucci. com/uk. 18 Sloane St, SW1X 9NE (and branches).

T: 020-7235 6707. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Please check for opening times. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

ICON Outlet New venue for fashion and lifestyle shopping, with restaurants and bars, plus personal shoppers.

Please check for times. www.iconattheo2.co.uk.

The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich. www.wheretraveler.com 53

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Its jewellery range includes charm bracelets and pendants.

65 South Molton St, W1K 5SU. T: 020-3298 0147. www.thomassabo.com

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Salvatore Ferragamo CHANEL OU Chatila Uniqlo Jo Malone Q U DKNY E E N ROYAL ARCADE A N N S TSimba, REET characters, from CinderellaEto ST BottletopS E S Max Mara DENMAN Calleija Stefanel T R UGG Australia R Nirav Modi Hollister Akris at this flagship store. It’s filled with E E L’Occitane E E T Prada Penhaligon’s Hunter Saint Laurent T Wolford magical items, including toys and Omega Barbour Lotus WIGMORE STR EET The Highlands Gucci Daks costumes. Look out for special Kiehl’s La Perla Jimmy Pepe Coccinelle events including workshops, film Marina Rinaldi Fairly Jeans Dolce & Gabbana PICCADILLY Piquadro Whittard Alexander McQueen screenings and more.

CIRCUS of Chelsea Cartier Tod’s Dover St De Beers 350 Oxford St, W1C 1BY. Mappin & Webb Market HENRIET Barbour Cath Kidston International T: 020-7491 9136. T A P L A C E GREEN TUMI PARK Fortnum Prestat www.shopdisney.co.uk Ritz Fine & Mason Jewellery Penhaligon’s B RLinks O of London

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SHOPPING Westfield London This mall has high-street names and luxury brands, plus KidZania, a centre where children can play while parents shop. www.westfield.com/london.

Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset.

Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City This massive mall has 270 shops, a cinema, casino, bars, restaurants and plenty of outdoor spaces. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity.

2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300.

Map inset. Station: Stratford.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris This esteemed British jewellery brand offers beautiful couture designs, hand-crafted to the highest standards using only the finest stones. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park/Piccadilly Circus.

Links of London Find jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. There is an engraving service, too. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora The range of modern jewellery at Pandora includes charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

KIDS’ STORES

London Glassblowing Pick up a beautiful souvenir at Peter Layton’s studio and shop. Book a class to try glassblowing for yourself at the UK’s leading studio and gallery for glass art. www.londonglassblowing. co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

LEGO Store LEGO merchandise of all varieties, plus a ‘Pick and Build’ wall and a huge display of a replica Big Ben made from the bricks. www.lego. com/en-gb/stores. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Twinings

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs, including jewellery and cups. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royalcollectionshop.co.uk.

7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

DID YOU KNOW? Liberty opened in 1875, after Arthur Lasenby Liberty borrowed £2,000 from his father-in-law

This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it has been trading since 1706. It stocks a huge variety of teas, infusions and tea pots.

Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session.

Daily, please check for times. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511.

D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City

The pharmacist to the Queen is now more than 200 years old. It offers emergency prescriptions and vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. Look out for artworks, including illustrations of London icons and maps.

There are also workshops and special events.

Please check for times. www.webuilt-thiscity.com.

56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. T: 020-3642 9650.

E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Japan Centre

The Whisky Exchange

Seek out this subterranean shop for matcha, fans, ceramics and specialist ingredients from Japan (p. 52).

Check for opening times. www.japancentre.com.

35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA (and branches). T: 0203405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

This specialist retailer stocks a large selection of fine whiskies, spirits and Champagnes. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

John Bell & Croyden

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TAX-FREE SHOPPING

Euro

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Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping.

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Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise.

Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 55

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DINING AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in house, plus dishes including whole-roasted poussin. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D (and branches). www.goodmanrestaurants.com.

24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Great Court Restaurant

Busy all-day diner in a mock rainforest setting that includes animatronic animals, with a family-friendly menu featuring pasta, salads and chargrilled chicken. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.the rainforestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s iconic Reading Room, under a domed roof. ££.

Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

BRITISH (MODERN)

This modern British brasserie is tucked behind Oxford Street. The menu is inspired by the National Trust’s Chartwell House in Kent – Winston Churchill’s former residence – so expect seasonal, locally sourced and beautifully cooked dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.the montagurestaurant.co.uk. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 020-7299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Darwin Brasserie

Hard Rock Cafe

Dine on level 36 of the building known as the Walkie Talkie for spectacular city-wide views. Try dishes such as roasted sea trout. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

London’s legendary burger joint, which is more than 40 years old, has rock memorabilia and a fun atmosphere. Enjoy jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££.

Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal The first London restaurant from this superchef, with a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. Try the Earl Grey tea-cured salmon or spiced pigeon. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinnerbyheston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

JW Steakhouse Quality steakhouse serving dry-aged USDA prime beef with various sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Fenchurch Restaurant

Planet Hollywood

This smart dining room on the roof of the building known as the Walkie Talkie has spectacular views.

It serves Cornish mackerel, Isle of Mull scallops and Devonshire lamb – and the desserts are something special. Daily L & D. www.skygarden.london. £££.

20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11.

Station: Monument.

Hollywood-inspired dining experience with great film memorabilia on the walls and an international menu. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywoodlondon.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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Rainforest Cafe

The Montagu Kitchen

Rex Whistler Restaurant Originally opened in 1927, this arty restaurant features white columns and a grand mural by Rex Whistler which covers all the walls. It’s known for its wine list, which goes well with roast beef, lemon sole and poached pear for dessert. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Sophie’s Steakhouse The Soho branch of this modern steakhouse has an open kitchen and a large covered terrace.

As well as steak, it serves Sunday roasts. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.com. 42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and branch). T: 020-7836 8836. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

REVIEW

The team behind Pachamama in Marylebone has just opened Pachamama East in a quiet part of Shoreditch. This cool, low-lit Peruvian restaurant is great for groups, with its DJ, open kitchen and counter seating creating a lively vibe – and the ‘soil’, ‘land’ and ‘sea’ menu is designed for sharing. The ceviche is delicious: we enjoyed the powerful flavours of the sea bass variety which zinged with its tiger’s milk base. Don’t miss the yuzu ice cream with meringue and oat crumble, which balanced citrusy notes, sticky sweetness and crunch. There are some surprising dishes too, from chilli-spiked, stir-fried glass noodles to deep-fried plantain with feta. You can’t go wrong with Sichuan chilli-fried chicken – especially after ordering some brilliant pisco cocktails.

73 Great Eastern St, EC2A 3HR. T: 020-7846 9595. www.pachamamalondon.com.

Off map. Station: Old Street

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80+. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 72-73.

PACHAMAMA EAST COURTESY OF PACHAMAMA EAST

Peckish for Peruvian

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DINING

Din Tai Fung

‘The capital is a true melting pot of mouthwatering international cuisine’

DISHES COURTESY OF DIN TAI FUNG

G

lobal chains are flocking to London, and no wonder. Laura Citron, the CEO of the Mayor of London’s tourism sector, London & Partners, says: ‘London’s creative energy and cultural vibrancy continue to attract huge overseas brands such as the Taiwanese dumpling legend, Din Tai Fung. The capital is a true melting pot of mouthwatering international cuisine.’

Imperial Treasure, which has a Michelin star in Singapore and Hong Kong, launched its European debut in London – just in time for Chinese New Year. Housed in a Grade II-listed building near St James’s Market, its signature

dish is roasted Peking duck, which is carved at your table and served with homemade pancakes. The cocktail bar has sake and rare whiskies (www.imperialtreasure.com).

The Taiwanese restaurant Din Tai Fung has 160 restaurants worldwide and celebrity fans such as Katy Perry – and also picked London for its European debut.

The dim sum restaurant is opposite Covent Garden Market, with a second opening soon in Centre Point near Tottenham Court Road.

Its signature dish is xiao long bao (steamed pork dumplings), while it also serves chicken soup that’s been simmered for six hours.

GLOB SPECI AL AL Inside you’ll find stone lions, curved grey roof tiles and handcrafted carvings salvaged from old Chinese buildings, as well as calligraphy by the renowned Singaporean painter Tan Oe Pang, who uses Chinese ink to paint motorways and skyscrapers.

The London branch is also the first to have a cocktail bar, which serves Taiwanese cocktails, jasmine and oolong tea made with handpicked leaves, and pearl milk tea made with sweet tapioca balls. The restaurant has a shop selling the tea along with sauces and decorative fans (www.dintaifung-uk.com).

SARAH RICHES Dining Editor www.wheretraveler.com 57

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DINING St Pancras Brasserie

The English Grill

Hakkasan

This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal serves British dishes all day. It has a Champagne and oyster bar that overlooks the trains. ££-£££.

Daily B, L & D. www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk.

Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

This smart hotel restaurant has ornate chandeliers and high ceilings. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600.

F6. Station: Victoria.

VIVI

The Palm Court

Opens on 22 Feb. Seasonal dishes, afternoon tea and a pre-theatre menu. A great place for people watching. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.vivirestaurant. co.uk. Centre Point, 11 St Giles Square, WC2H 8AP. T: 020-8812 3200. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

This grand hotel lounge has palms, folding mirrored screens and trees. Order afternoon tea in the colonial-style conservatory. ££. Check for times. www.ihg.com.

Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282.

C8. Station: Russell Square.

This fashionable restaurant serves modern Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. Tucked away in an alley, its decor takes styling cues from decadent Shanghai. ££££.

Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Butlers Restaurant Enjoy top English cuisine in this elegant Mayfair restaurant, which is known for its Dover sole and afternoon tea. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chester fieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 0207491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Café in the Crypt Underneath the church in Trafalgar Square you can dine under stone arches. Enjoy homely, good-value dishes and traditional hot desserts: try the fruit crumble. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158.

D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Kai Mayfair

Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef and Nanyang chilli lobster. ££££.

Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk.

65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6.

Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Rules, which opened in 1798, has spanned the reigns of nine monarchs

The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy superb British cuisine in this plush dining room. A jacket and tie are essential. Book ahead. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com.

The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 0207300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Rules Plush, 200-year-old restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens have eaten. ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Station: Covent Garden

CHINESE

Cheneston’s

Chai Wu

Enjoy British cuisine in a classic dining room, with dishes such as pan-seared venison. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Located in Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef. ££££.

Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk.

87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888.

F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

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Next generation

A chef who has worked at Noma and with Gordon Ramsay has launched a Mediterranean restaurant, Pucci Mayfair. Tilly Turbett’s partner Mayfair is Rufus Albanese, the son of the owner of Pucci Pizza in Chelsea, which was popular with singers Rod Stewart and Bryan Ferry in the 1970s. Despite its Mayfair location and gold velvet banquettes, this Pucci has a relaxed vibe. As well as pizza, try Italian, Turkish, Greek and Lebanese mezze including glazed Barbary duck breast with pomegranate molasses and sweet potato, or raw, wild sea bass with chilli, melon and lime oil.

39 Maddox St, W1S 1FX. T: 020-3887 4363. www.puccimayfair.com.

E6. Station: Oxford Circus

Mei Ume This plush restaurant serves Chinese and Japanese cuisine, including sushi and Peking duck. Tall ceilings, big windows and a cherry blossom painting make it feel grand. ££££. Daily L & D. www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. T: 020-3297 3799.

E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Min Jiang Enjoy park views alongside Sichuan dishes, dim sum and spicy seafood. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988.

F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

Yauatcha Award-winning Soho restaurant serving dim sum. Save space for the macarons. £££. Daily L & D. www.yauatcha.com. 15-17 Broadwick St, W1F 0DL (and City branch). T: 020-7494 8888.

D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street Brasserie inside a former bank, featuring a glass dome, serving everything from a full English breakfast to slow-cooked lamb shank. £££. MonFri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred cuisine from the Galvin brothers, with views over the park.

Set menus include a Bellini Sunday lunch. £££.

Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinat windows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Ting Located on level 35 of The Shard, this restaurant serves dishes with an Asian influence. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD Neptune Try the exceptional seafood platter and oysters in this Grade II-listed hotel restaurant. £££. Daily B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 0203797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.

RULES COURTESY OF RULES; PUCCI MAYFAIR © LATEEF PHOTOGRAPHY

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL)

DID YOU KNOW?

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting.

Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music.

73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING REVIEW

Time for

THE DORCHESTER The CutCakes & Tea menu at the hotel steak restaurant CUT at 45 Park Lane has an American theme, with savoury bites such as maple and bacon macarons, Wagyu beef sliders and fried turkey and buttermilk scones, followed by scones with huckleberry compote. Sweets are American, too: cinnamon buns and pecan cake pops.

45 Park Lane, W1K 1PN. T: 020-7493 4545. www.dorchestercollection.com

Berenjak in Soho is not your usual kebab joint: it’s led by a top chef, candlelit and features a wall of hanging plants. This is a joint venture between the chef Kian Samyani and JKS Restaurants, the group that is behind highly acclaimed Gymkhana, Hoppers and Trishna. Named after the rice snack eaten at Iranian funfairs, Berenjak has a casual vibe.

Its back room has a mosaic floor and Persian rugs. Sample Iranian dishes such as aubergine with whey, walnuts and mint; chicken marinated in saffron, lemon and tomato; and sour partridge and pheasant. Finish with baklava ice cream!

27 Romilly St, W1D 5AL. T: 020-3319 8120. www.berenjaklondon.com

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester

ST PANCRAS RENAISSANCE HOTEL This Victorian gothic building, designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott, opened in 1873. Now a hotel, you can enjoy a traditional afternoon tea in George’s Bar. Try classic sandwiches filled with smoked salmon and cucumber, sausage rolls and scones. Sweets include lemon meringue pie, fruit cake and a cherry financier.

Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7278 3888. www.georgesbar.co.uk

Exquisite food from this three-Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Advance booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com.

The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

This restaurant-bar has a gin-based tea. Nibble on a Sipsmith gin and green tea-cured salmon and cream cheese sandwich; a ham, pea shoots and mustard mayonnaise sandwich; and a goat’s cheese and beetroot macaron. Then enjoy buttermilk and juniper scones, gin and berry cheesecake and Valrhona chocolate.

1 Seething Lane, EC3N 4AX. T: 020-7977 9500. www.thelampery.com

Dine on modern Indian cuisine, such as soft-shell crab and venison, and Padrón pepper biryani. ££££.

Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com.

12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary

Try the tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. £££.

Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, which includes the Pukka bar. The seasonal menu might feature Hyderabadi lamb shank or Goan chicken curry. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Brasserie Zédel

Gaylord

Brasserie Joël

Good-value set menu in this bustling brasserie. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com.

20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Céleste

THE LAMPERY

Benares

This iconic Indian restaurant serves North Indian plates including Mughal dishes. You can also opt for a chai and chaat menu, ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Michelin-starred cuisine such as sea bass with seaweed crust, served in a smart dining room. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com.

The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Enjoy street food, thalis and regional curries in vibrant surroundings. ££. Daily L & D. www.masala zone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches).

T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

INDIAN

Tamarind

Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here has exotic twists, such as smoked chilli lamb chops. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Baluchi at the Lalit London Tall, arched ceilings and enormous windows make this five-star hotel restaurant grand. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thebaluchi.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 020-3765 0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Masala Zone

Try authentic, Michelin-starred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine, including lobster masala. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com.

20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6.

Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, which is Michelinstarred, has an opulent interior and dishes such as lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com.

Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

AFTERNOON TEA IMAGES COURTESY OF THE VENUES; BERENJAK COURTESY OF BERENJAK

TEA

EAST IS EAST

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DINING

INTERNATIONAL

ENJOY THE THALI AT

Bbar Enjoy 28-day-aged beef and fried hake at this relaxed restaurant and bar. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

REAL INDIAN FOOD

The Cavendish This timeless brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini and Sunday roasts. ££-£££.

Daily B, L & D. www.35newcavendish.co.uk.

35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030.

C5. Station: Baker Street.

The Terrace This hotel restaurant above Charing Cross Station dates back 150 years. Dine on salads, burgers, pasta and small plates in an opulent setting. ££.

Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

ITALIAN Ask Italian This pizza and pasta joint opposite Paddington Station is a friendly spot. You can eat in its sunny conservatory. ££. Daily L & D. www.askitalian. co.uk. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches).

T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.

Cicchetti All-day dining venue serving Italy’s regional specialities, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.san carlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8.

Station: Covent Garden.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .COM

Verdi Italian Kitchen Dine on delicious stone-baked pizzas and salad or sit down to afternoon tea before a concert in this iconic Victorian music venue. Check for Free Friday Music. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdi italian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table in a theatrical experience: they flip ingredients, catch some in their hats, shout and tap utensils to a beat. Try the Wagyu beef and hibachi prawns. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk.

37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 0207494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Engawa This traditional Japanese restaurant specialises in Kobe beef and sushi. ££££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ginza Onodera This sleek, subterranean Mayfair restaurant serves sushi and sashimi, plus dishes such as seared duck breast. £££. Daily L & D. www.onoderagroup.com/uk. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E7. Station: Green Park.

Sakagura The menu at this izakaya-style Japanese’pub’ is designed to be shared, so order drinks alongside small plates. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakagura london.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

An exquisite bar and restaurant in the heart of Soho serving a delicious and varied menu showcasing locally sourced vegetables and fish – along with Sophie’s famous British beef.

42-44 Great Windmill Street, W1B 7NB sophiessteakhouse.com/soho soho@sophiessteakhouse.com 020 7836 8836

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DINING Mango Tree

RIVERSIDE

Moro

See the sights on a river cruise while enjoying modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.

This fine dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace offers authentic Thai dishes such as tom ka and grilled beef in a spicy sauce. The set menu is a good way to try a variety of dishes. £££.

Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk.

46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

The London Showboat

Thai Pot

Bateaux London

Enjoy a two-course lunch, afternoon tea or dinner with live jazz. £££-££££. Booking essential. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

RS Hispaniola This delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serves British cuisine, with dishes including Liverpool Gin-cured salmon and Gloucester ham hock terrine. It has great set, pre-theatre and afternoon tea menus. £££.

Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment, Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in this huge Debenhams department store and see the chefs at work in an open-plan kitchen. Enjoy dim sum, sushi rolls and more. There’s also a Champagne bar. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk.

334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888.

D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

A married couple – Sam and Sam Clark – have run this North African/ Spanish restaurant since 1997. The weekly menu features dishes such as wood-roasted chicken, charcoal-grilled brill and yoghurt cake with pistachios and pomegranate. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336.

London has more than Off map. Station: Farringdon.

70 Michelin-starred

DID YOU KNOW?

This much-loved restaurant has restaurants, making been established for 20 years. it one of the world’s From its huge, varied menu, try the top-ranked cities The Gate stir-fried beef and Massaman curry, or Veggie restaurant with Indian and Middle a set meal from £13.50. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. Eastern influences serving dishes such as tofu www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. tikka and couscous fritters. ££. Daily L & D; Sat & T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656.

D5. Station: Marble Arch.

VEGETARIAN

SPANISH El Pirata

This lively Mayfair restaurant has been serving hot and cold tapas for nearly 25 years. Try the prawns in olive oil, pimentos and wild mushrooms. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk.

5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6.

Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Mildreds

Ibérica

Tibits

No dilemmas here: start with a plate of cheese and charcuterie, move on to paella or tapas, then end with churros. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches).

T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. Choose from salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££.

Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA (and Bankside branch).

T: 020-7758 4112. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes such as wild mushroom and ale pie and mock duck. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk.

45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN (and branches).

T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

O P E N I N G 2 2 N D F E B RUA RY 2 0 1 9 V I S I T V I V I, A B E AU T I F U L B R I T I S H R E S TAU R A N T AT C E NT RE P O I N T, I N T H E H E A RT O F LO N D O N E N J OY A CO M P L I M E N TA RY CO C K TA I L W H E N YO U S H OW T H I S A DV E RT O N A R R I VA L F IN D US : 1 1 ST GI LE S SQUARE , LO N DO N WC2 H 8AP W W W.VI V I RE STAURAN T.CO.UK @V I V I RE STAURAN T

BY T&C : Offer valid until March 31st, 2019. Limited to one cocktail per guest based on a maximum of 6 guests dining.

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The Chelsea Harbour Hotel The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea is in partnership with Whittard of Chelsea. Go on a journey through the history of afternoon tea, from its advent in 1840 by the Duchess of Bedford through to the present day. The tea comes with sandwiches and desserts from throughout history. The menu includes finger sandwiches filled with classic and contemporary delights such as coronation chicken, a sandwich created in 1953 specifically for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation.

The luxurious five-star hotel boasts panoramic views over Chelsea Harbour Marina and the River Thames. The Travel Through Time Afternoon Tea costs £28 per person, or £38 with a glass of Champagne.

El Pirata

Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7823 3000. www.millenniumhotels.com

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic: the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans such as Brian May and Johnny Depp, as well as food critics, are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

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NIGHTLIFE Belowzero Ice Bar

‘Can’t afford a round-the-world ticket?

Then travel the globe while bar-hopping around London’s nightlife scene’

D

o you wish you could go on an adventure like Mr Fogg in Jules Verne’s novel, Around the World in 80 Days? If you can’t afford a round-theworld ticket, you can travel the globe while bar-hopping around London’s nightlife scene. Dance to Latin beats in South America, dine under Moroccan lanterns or relax on an ‘ocean liner’.

The latest branch of Mr Fogg’s, a chain of six themed on Verne’s 1873 novel, is Mrs Fogg’s Maritime Club & Distillery in Broadgate Circle. The bar is named after Mr Fogg’s Indian wife, Aouda, who travelled to England aboard the Rangoon Steamer.

There are port holes, maps, an engine room used as a live entertainment space and a gin distillery (www.mr-foggs.com).

If that gives you a taste for travel, make your next stop North America. A pianist plays jazz in the iconic American Bar in The Savoy (www.fairmont.com). Travel to Barrio Angel to visit Latin America. The bar has cacti and Day of the Dead murals.

Dance to DJs or book a seat in the caravan booth and sip drinks served in Mexican wrestling mugs (www.barriobars.com).

Set sail for Asia de Cuba in the West End, which is decorated with vintage posters advertising Cuba, the Philippines, Hong

Kong and India (www.asiadecuba.com).

Meanwhile, in Momo, you’ll feel like you’ve flown to North Africa, as the Moroccan bar is lit with lanterns and drinks are served in silver teapots (www.momoresto.com).

Belowzero Ice Bar, next door, may have ice sculptures of London landmarks, but when you’re wrapped in a faux fur and sipping from glasses made from ice in -50C temperatures, you’ll feel like you’re in the Arctic (www.belowzeroicebar.com).

Take a pit-stop in Scarlett Green, an Antipodean-inspired bar in Soho. Come for boozy brunches, Australian wine or Aperol spritz surrounded by photos of Bondi Beach (www.daisygreenfood.com).

SARAH RICHES Nightlife Editor

BELOWZERO ICE BAR © PETER KINDERSLEY

AL GLOBIAL SPEC

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‘‘

Let’s dance

The Blackfriar Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub serving cask ales in an old-world setting. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk.

174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474.

E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this atmospheric pub for a real taste of historic London.

22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670.

D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Dog and Duck A traditional real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as a great range of pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk.

18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This charming 17th-century pub is a real step back in time. It boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.theflask highgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in Soho: there is no music and phones are discouraged. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The George Inn

Following a show at the Hammersmith Odeon in 1973, singer David Bowie said goodbye to his alter ego Ziggy Stardust at a party with Mick Jagger, Barbra Streisand and Paul McCartney in Hotel Café Royal. Relive the moment at Ziggy’s, a new Bowie-themed bar on the same spot. Photos of the Starman (which are for sale) are on display, while padded leather walls and orange chairs recreate a retro vibe. Fabio Spinetti, previously of The Connaught, serves cocktails on napkins decorated with a lightning bolt, such as Favourite Melodies and Snow White Tan. You will be raving about it to all your friends The Next Day… Hotel Café Royal, 68 Regent St, W1B 4DY. T: 020-7406 3310. www.laurent atcaferoyal.com/ziggys. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus

BARS & CLUBS The Back Room

Located next to the Hard Rock Cafe, this bar displays vintage and iconic music items. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

This tucked-away historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org. uk/george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Booking Office Bar

The Glasshouse Stores

City Garden Bar

This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, serving its own ales. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.

The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, this pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieand stump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.

Waxy O’Connor’s Popular Irish bar, with four bars split over six levels. It screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar and elegant decor. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

This impressive bar, on the roof terrace of what is known as the ‘Walkie Talkie’ building, has amazing views, a garden and free entry. www.skygarden. london. Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.

Dukes Bar Outstanding bar, renowned for its superior Martinis. www.dukeshotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840.

E7. Station: Green Park.

Freedom This long-standing, gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its cocktail bar and nightclub. www.freedom barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7.

Julie Andrews made Station: Tottenham Court Road.

DID YOU KNOW? her solo debut at the Hippodrome Casino in 1947

Waxy’s Little Sister Smaller, quieter sister venue to Waxy O’Connor’s, serving traditional Irish beers and whiskies. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Gong

Located on level 52 of The Shard, this place is perfect for cocktails. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit, stonearched basement. www.gordonswinebar.com.

47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8.

Station: Embankment.

Opium Cocktail Bar Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar. www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Scarfes Bar This elegant bar is named after satirical British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures lining the walls. www.scarfesbar.com.

Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar. www.stpancras bysearcys.co.uk. St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This West End venue also has a restaurant and several bars, plus a poker room. www.thecasino lsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 0203733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Hippodrome Casino Massive casino with gaming on three floors, plus a restaurant and live music venue. www.hippodrome casino.com. Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years. www.ronniescotts.co.uk.

47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows This is one of the world’s best-known gentlemen’s clubs. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows. co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 72-73.

ZIGGY’S COURTESY OF HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL

TRADITIONAL PUBS

REVIEW

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NIGHTLIFE

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PRE-BOOK RESTAUR ANT, VIP TABLES, PRIVATE BOOTHS OR OUR NEW VIP ROOMS

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WELLNESS

‘If you want to relax in London like a world citizen, here’s how ’

T

here are lots of spas offering Swedish back rubs or Indian head massages, but few places encapsulate a country from the moment you enter. Proving that London is a global city, we have spas whose decor, ethos and treatments are dedicated to countries, from Russia to China. So if you want to relax like a world citizen, here’s how.

If you’re looking for a spa experience to remember, Banya No 1 is for you. This Russian spa’s signature treatment is the venik massage, during which bundles of birch twigs are pressed against your body.

It sounds punishing rather than relaxing – as if you’re being tortured by a James Bond villain – but the treatment is designed to ease tension and improve circulation.

If you’re feeling your inner 007, you can get double the intensity by being thrashed

by two members of staff at once. Russian food and drink, including caviar and vodka, are also served (www.gobanya.co.uk).

The Mandarin Oriental (p. 69) is a celebration of Chinese culture, so it’s no surprise to find that its spa offers so many Eastern-inspired treatments. Professor Ke, a leading practitioner in Chinese medicine, works closely with the venue. Book a consultation for dietary advice, massages and Chinese exercises. If you want the full experience, book the Oriental Suite, which can be used for one or two people.

Chuan Spa (p. 69) has to be one of the best Chinese spas in the capital: its treatments are also inspired by Chinese medicine. The Chuan You Facial uses the ancient technique of Gum Sha, where a layer of skin is scraped off to improve

circulation. Jade, a mineral with healing properties, is used to nurture the skin.

The oldest known Moroccan hammam dates back to the late eighth century. During the Ottoman Empire, many were built as public baths as there was no running water.

Entering a hammam can be intimidating: do I have the right clothes on? Should I even wear any? Don’t worry, these hammams will put you at ease – especially the opulent Akasha in Hotel Café Royal (www.hotelcafe royal.com). You can also visit The Ned’s Club Relax (www.thened.com), which has one of the city’s largest hammams, and Urban Retreat in Harrods (www.urban retreat.co.uk). In these heated, tiled rooms, you lie on a slab and are scrubbed and massaged. Relaxation is, indeed, universal.

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Wellness Editor

CHUAN SPA COURTESY OF THE LANGHAM

GLOB SPECI AL AL

Chuan Spa

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SPAS

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel

This three-storey salon offers cuts, colours, blowdries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting for 15 or 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a Gold AgeDefying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual, while there are also treatments for two.

Brands used include Forte Organics and Spiezia Organics. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

Bamford Haybarn Spa

The Spa at Dolphin Square

Aveda Institute

First opened in the Cotswolds and loved by celebrities, this is the spa’s city branch.

Treatments take a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL (and branch). T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage directly in your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982.

Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit (p. 68). There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 020-7973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Elemis Day Spa Situated in Mayfair, the spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes.

The Penthouse is a private suite that you can share with a guest: upgrade your experience with a bottle of Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. The decor features a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens.

Signature treatments include the Warm Bamboo Massage. There is a double treatment room, fitness centre and swimming pool. www.mandaraspa.com.

Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Mandarin Oriental Fresh from a refurbishment, this luxury spa is inspired by Chinese treatments (p. 68). The menu offers scrubs, massages and facials. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery Men-only spa with treatments ranging from sports massages to traditional shaves. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a shaving lesson. Also at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com.

60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for brides and hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa.

Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767.

Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata Enjoy this holistic skin and body-care haven.

The menu includes facials, massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Ushvani This plush spa in Chelsea has won many awards. Its philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture, and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include the Malay and Balinese Massage, which incorporates natural herbs, spices and flowers. Look out for yoga classes. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Late appointments available

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com.

31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons At this trendy hairdressers, you can choose your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it. www.hershesons.com.

Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB (and branches).

T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

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Jo Hansford This hair salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.johansford.com.

48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774.

E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie Award-winning hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for the everyday woman. The 20-minute Speed Styling service offers styles from updos to braids. The salon uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleandmoodie.com.

41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc) refer to coordinates on map p. 72-73.

BASED ON RICHMOND HILL, COVERING LONDON ZONES 1-4

WWW.SKPERSONAL .TRAINING

Enquire to see a trainer today, call: 07568 565084

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Stoke Newington Leytonstone High Road St. James Rectory Street Road Dalston Stratford Leyton Kingsland Clapton International Hackney Canonbury Hackney Downs Hackney Central Wick

Highbury & Islington

Euston

Warren Street

Edgware Road

Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Goldhawk Road

Mornington Crescent

Great Baker Portland Street Street

Notting Lancaster Bond Gate Street Hill Gate

Holland Park

Wood Lane

Camden Road

Chalk Farm Camden Town

Finchley Road Swiss Cottage St. John’s Wood

Edgware Road Marylebone

Kentish Holloway Road Town Caledonian Road

Kentish Town West Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Kensal Rise Brondesbury Kensal Green South Queen’s Park Kilburn High Road Hampstead

East Acton

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn

Harlesden

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

Waterloo & City

DLR

Services or access at these stations are subject to variation.

Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details.

Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays

Emirates Air Line cable car

Overground

TfL Rail

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Transport for London

Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P

Version D 7.2017

TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.

It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London.

You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.

Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.

An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses.

For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Please check for 24-hour service at weekends.

Docklands Light Railway

Correct at time of going to print

International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and south east England.

Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England.

For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0345-748 4950.

Eurostar uses St Pancras International.

Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).

Accessible London Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

Taxis

GETTING AROUND

Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345-222 1234.

For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

Trains

You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands.

Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras

There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). UK: T: 0343-222 2222. International: T: +44 343 222 2222. www.cclondon.com.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (above). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night

Congestion Charge

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Ask the

Chinese New Year

CONCIERGE Istvan Halasz

Pick up some travel tips from The Ned hotel’s assistant head concierge What’s your most popular request?

How about a hidden gem?

We are preparing lists on where to watch the Super Bowl and Chinese New Year celebrations, last-minute Valentine’s Day dinner options and London Fashion Week.

Try the great set menu at Cub, which is a sustainable restaurant in Hoxton.

Any family-friendly ideas?

You could hire boats and bikes, or tackle the Go Ape obstacle course in Battersea.

Tell us about a strange request.

Go Ape

The Ned

Little Venice

Soon after Harry and Meghan’s royal wedding, we had a top stand-up comedian staying at the hotel during a tour around the country. He asked about the possibility of inviting the couple to his show, so that he could meet them in person.

What makes your hotel special?

The Ned has 10 restaurants and a rooftop club with an outdoor pool. It used to be a bank and now the original vault is a club accompanied by live music.

Any romantic ideas?

CHINESE NEW YEAR © LONDON CHINATOWN CHINESE ASSOCIATION/JON MO; GO APE COURTESY OF GO APE; THE NED © SIMON BROWN; LITTLE VENICE © HOLLY FARRIER; ISTVAN HALASZ COURTESY OF THE NED

Walking along Regent’s Canal is magic, as it connects so many neighbourhoods and gives couples the chance to spend quality time together. Walk around Little Venice and visit The Summerhouse for seafood.

Car hire

On foot

Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendallcars.com.

Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 0207591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.

It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes.

Adult prices start from £4.80. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am).

Adult £19.80; child £9.90; family (two adults, up to three children) £39.60. Children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online.

Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

What should visitors see outside central London?

On a sunny day, tour Kew Gardens or visit Richmond Park; the latter has spectacular views and a tranquil atmosphere. You can kayak to Richmond on the River Thames from Hampton Court, then sports fans could catch some rugby at Twickenham Stadium in the afternoon.

Which quintessentially English experience should visitors try?

Sweetings is one of the capital’s oldest seafood restaurants and a lunchtime institution. It has fish on ice in the window and serves classic dishes and comfort-food puddings. Don’t forget to try a glass of Black Velvet (Guinness with Champagne).

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire a bike for 24 hours, and the first 30 mins of travel are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike.

Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands.

SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland.

Mail Boxes provides trained, certified packers.

There is also a digital printing and copy service.

T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

24-hour Tube lines

The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines.

• Jubilee line: Across the entire line.

• Victoria line: Across the entire line.

• Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware.

• Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5.

• Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 71

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My

PERFECT DAY Asma Khan CHEF Asma is the first British chef to appear on Netflix’s Chef’s Table. She’s also behind the Indian restaurant Darjeeling Express off Carnaby Street

What are your favourite buildings?

St Paul’s Cathedral: I love that view of St Paul’s from the Millennium Bridge. It reminds me of Calcutta, because it has the same style – a lot of these buildings were constructed at the same time in the commercial area during the Raj.

Tell us the favourite item you’ve bought.

I got a Paddington bear when I moved to this country. I bought it in a souvenir shop on Shaftesbury Avenue when I arrived and it sits near my bed. I now know that he came from Peru as a refugee, but I only discovered that when I read the story to my children.

I thought: ‘I have made it to London and Paddington is the bear of London.’

Paddington

Darjeeling Express

Is there a place that holds a special memory for you?

Albert Bridge. During my pregnancy, my blood pressure was high and I was told to walk, so that was always a milestone: walking from my house to the bridge.

Tell us about the tea at Darjeeling Express.

The teas that Darjeeling Express uses right now are from my family estate, founded in 1884. They’re organic – it’s rare to find organic Darjeeling tea. We have four teas and you can order them to match your meal.

What is your favourite green space?

Brompton Cemetery. A lot of Londoners don’t know about it, but it’s a beautiful space. It has tombs associated with different families. It’s where I taught my kids how to cycle.

Do you have a favourite café?

Troubadour on Old Brompton Road. It’s a five-minute walk from my house and it has got all these quaint teapots, old surgical instruments and things that I don’t understand on the walls.

What would be your ideal entertainment?

It’s always about music and uncomplicated food – and lots of tea. Sitting on the floor is the most comfortable thing for me. I prefer to stay at home than go out.

Where is your favourite place to eat out?

I love Oka, a Japanese restaurant below me [Darjeeling Express] in Kingly Court. I love eating food that’s different from what I make.

Brompton Cemetery

Do you have a favourite hotel in London?

Rosewood London. When I’m feeling rich I go to eat at Holborn Dining Room, and Scarfes Bar for tea. It is old-fashioned hospitality.

What makes London stand out?

The people. Last year the crew from Chef’s Table filmed everywhere, from Borough Market to outside my restaurant. So many people came by and I told them not to post anything online and no one did. Everyone was so proud to have a London chef. London has this ability to shelter us all – it’s this big umbrella under which we all live. People have huge love for the city, because it has shown love for us. As an immigrant, I feel that.

Darjeeling Express, Kingly Court, W1B 5PW. T: 020-7287 2828. www.darjeeling-express.com

ASMA KHAN COURTESY OF DARJEELING EXPRESS; PADDINGTON BEAR COURTESY OF HAMLEYS; ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL © ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL; SCARFES BAR © DURSTON SAYLOR; DARJEELING EXPRESS © MING TANG-EVANS; BROMPTON CEMETERY © ROYAL PARKS

Where do you enjoy shopping?

I’d go to Kensington High Street (I kind of avoid Oxford Street, even though I work near it). There are usually lots of new shops in Kensington and they have everything there.

Scarfes Bar

St Paul’s Cathedral

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ON! D N O L IN N W O T O M S DON’T MIS RIL P A 0 2 E C N A M R O F R E LP

FINA

THE SONGS. THE SOUND. THE STORY. MotownTheMusical.co.uk | Shaftesbury Theatre Motown™ is a trademark of UMG Recordings, Inc. registered in the U.S. and other countries, and is used under license.

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