Where Magazine London Dec 2017

LONDON CITY GUIDE ®

DECEMBER 2017

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

ELAINE PAIGE

The star on her biggest roles, from Evita to Cats

THANK YOU FOR THE MUSIC Inside the new ABBA exhibition

AMERICAN DREAMS

How to get tickets to Hamilton

magic

Enjoy great British traditions, from festive feasts to pantomimes

PLUS LUXURY SPAS 37 GREAT GIFTS CHAMPAGNE BARS

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOPPING

DINING

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Contents See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

December

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four and five-star hotels, and is considered to be the ‘concierge’s bible’.

LONDON CITY GUIDE ®

DECEMBER 2017

WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

ELAINE PAIGE

The star on her biggest roles, from Evita to Cats

THANK YOU FOR THE MUSIC Inside the new ABBA exhibition

AMERICAN DREAMS

How to get tickets to Hamilton

ON THE COVER

magic

Enjoy great British traditions, from festive feasts to pantomimes

PLUS LUXURY SPAS 37 GREAT GIFTS CHAMPAGNE BARS

C U LT U R E

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

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SHOPPING

DINING

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Be inspired this Christmas © iStock

The Guide

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24 SIGHTSEEING Enjoy illuminated trails in the spectacular settings of Syon House, Kew Gardens and Chiswick House.

38 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Handwritten lyrics, gold capes and musical instruments – Swedish popsters ABBA are celebrated at the Southbank Centre.

ELAINE PAIGE COURTESY OF DICK WHITTINGTON; MAGICIAN © CHISWELL STUDIOS; ASTER © THOMAS ALEXANDER PHOTOGRAPHY; ‘ELVES’ COURTESY OF NICKY’S IMAGINARIUM; MACARONS COURTESY OF LADURÉE

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12 A PAIGE TURNER

This month’s biggest festivals and events, from the New Year’s Eve Fireworks to Mariah Carey performing Christmas songs at The O2 arena.

10 TWELVE WAYS TO CELEBRATE CHRISTMAS Find out how you can enjoy a traditional British Christmas with the Queen’s Speech, board games and Brussels sprouts.

PLAN

2017-2018

PLAN DE

LONDRES ÉDITION E FRANÇAIS

Elaine Paige, famous for her role as Eva Perón in Evita, stars in the pantomime Dick Whittington.

16 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Gifts for him, her and children.

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82 MY PERFECT DAY Dan Gillespie Sells shares his London hotspots.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

Download past and present issues from across the Where Network via Magzter’s app.

Go to the app store.

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54 SHOPPING Who said Christmas grottos are just for children? Read our round-up of the quirkiest ones in town, where you can enjoy breakfast and even whisky with Santa.

62 DINING Enjoy Christmas dinner with a twist. We round up Thai, Nordic and Mexican takes on the festive feast.

Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW

44 ENTERTAINMENT Find out how you can get your hands on the must-have ticket of the season, Hamilton.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

72 NIGHTLIFE Raise a glass at one of the city’s Champagne bars, from the longest at Searcys St Pancras, to the highest at The View from The Shard.

76 WELLBEING Gold, caviar or diamonds? Take your pick from these luxurious spa treatments in London’s leading hotels.

78 ESSENTIALS London concierges share their travel tips, hidden gems and strangest requests.

80 MAPS A useful map of central London. w w w.wheret r aveler.c o m 3

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IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936

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GROUP EDITOR Kohinoor Sahota GROUP DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Riches ASSOCIATE EDITOR Neil Simpson SUB EDITOR Anna Frame CONTRIBUTORS Lois Bryson-Edmett, Jo Caird,

Emma Levine, Suzette Scoble, Alex Wellington GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton GRAPHIC DESIGNER Margaux Carpier PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stewart Dymock CONTENT DIRECTOR Chris Johnson

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Victoria Forbes-Watson, Georgie Porter HOTEL & CONCIERGE SERVICES DIRECTOR

Sam Johnson

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Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC. 725 Broad St, Augusta, GA 30901 MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S Morris IV WHERE LONDON 2nd Floor, Samuel House, 6 St Alban’s St, London, SW1Y 4SQ Contact: Where Magazine Subscriptions. T: 020-7611 7882. Email: subscriptions@ morriseurope.com. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In London, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a member of The Society of the Golden Keys and London & Partners/Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LCC, 727 Broad St, Augusta, GA 20901.

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Vol. No. 43 Issue No. 12 ISSN 0951 323X

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WELCOME: Editor’s Letter

Season’s greetings!

EVENT IMAGES © OMAR LOI; PHOTO BOOTH IMAGES COURTESY OF THE PHOTO BOOTH GUYS

Clockwise from above: Winners at the Concierge Awards; concierges; food selection; having fun in the photo booth; Theo Randall and Martha Ortiz

Not many of our magazines are planned so far in advance, but ideas for our December issue began some six months ago!

Welcome to the most amazing place in the world in which to spend Christmas. With its unique traditions, from the Queen’s Speech to Brussels sprouts, we show you how to have a very British Christmas (p. 10).

One of my favourite things to do is see a Christmas show. There is something for everyone: Disney on Ice, Matthew Bourne’s Cinderella and pantomimes (p. 14).

I had the pleasure of interviewing the first lady of British musical theatre: Elaine Paige, ahead of her role in Dick Whittington. As the first actress to play Evita, she told us about what it was like to go from being a struggling actress to a worldwide star (p. 12).

No trip to London is complete without shopping. Whether you are here to buy presents, souvenirs or something special for yourself, browse our gift guide (p. 16).

We rounded up items for men, women and kids.

On another note, we recently held the 12th annual MVP Golden Keys Concierge Awards at the InterContinental London Park Lane, which recognises the best concierges in their industry. I’d like to say a big congratulations to the winners.

Have a very merry Christmas!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon

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®

This December, the New Year’s Eve fireworks go off with a bang, the London International Horse Show gallops into town and tennis greats battle it out

NEW YEAR’S EVE FIREWORKS SUNDAY 31 DECEMBER

See in the New Year by watching fireworks at midnight along Victoria Embankment opposite the South Bank (31 Dec). Buy tickets in advance and gather at 8pm for the best views. www.london.gov.uk

CHRISTMAS TREE LIGHTING CEREMONY THURSDAY 7 DECEMBER

Norway has donated a spruce to London every year since 1947 as a thank you for the UK’s support during World War II. At the switch-on ceremony in Trafalgar Square, you can listen to carols and join in the countdown just before the tree is lit up by 770 bulbs. www.visitlondon.com

CHANUKAH TUESDAY 12–WEDNESDAY 20 DECEMBER

Join London’s Jewish community to celebrate Chanukah in the Square, a free event in Trafalgar Square. Each night, a branch of a menorah – a candelabrum with nine branches – is lit to live music to mark a 2,500-year-old miracle. www.london.gov.uk 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I D E C E M B E R 2017

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DECEMBER

LONDON INTERNATIONAL HORSE SHOW TUESDAY 12–MONDAY 18 DECEMBER

The International Horse Show at Olympia combines equine know-how, stunning choreography and skilful riding. A highlight this year are the Chilean Huasos and Dancers, making their Olympia debut (12-13 Dec). After impressing the Queen at her 90th birthday celebrations last year, they show off harmony between horse and rider, demonstrating the skills of the Chilean cowboys (Huasos) and their sturdy horses that are more accustomed to mountainous terrain than an indoor arena. There’s skill and grace for the Dressage Grand Prix (12 Dec), described as the ultimate expression of horse training and elegance – dressage is actually the world’s oldest equestrian discipline. It is often compared to ballet, where each rider and horse perform the same choreographed routine set to music. www.olympiahorseshow.com

MARIAH CAREY’S ALL I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS... AT THE O2 MONDAY 11 DECEMBER

Mariah Carey’s Merry Christmas is the perennial bestselling global holiday album, having sold more than 14 million copies worldwide to date.

This month she brings her All I Want for Christmas Is You tour to The O2. In this European exclusive, you can expect to hear the timeless classic that’s synonymous with Christmas, other festive tunes and hits from her latest album. www.theo2.co.uk

TENNIS AT THE ROYAL ALBERT HALL TO SUNDAY 3 DECEMBER

Great tennis players who are past their prime, but still know how to entertain, compete in Champions Tennis at the Royal Albert Hall. In this, the season-ending finale to the ATP Champions Tour, watch thrilling action from former Grand Slam champions including Tim Henman, Henri Leconte and Pat Rafter. www.royalalberthall.com

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HOT DATES

The Ferrero Rocher pop-up opens at Westfield London, until 17 Dec (p. 56) Head on down to Novikov’s two-day Christmas Market in Mayfair Place Browse food, drink and fashion stalls at Sample market outside The O2 Catch the Gorillaz on their Humanz tour to promote their new album at The O2 Attend the first night of The Royal Ballet’s The Nutcracker at the Royal Opera House Finally, it’s here! The question is, can you bag tickets to Hamilton the musical (p. 44)?

See an enormous fir tree lit up for Christmas in Trafalgar Square (p. 6) Listen to Moulettes and Welsh alternative folk from 9Bach at Cadogan Hall Watch Dick Whittington, a traditional pantomime, at London Palladium (p. 12) See beautiful lanterns at Magical Lantern Festival at Chiswick House & Gardens (p. 24) Get into the Christmas spirit by listening to carols in Trafalgar Square Every night from tonight, a candle is lit in Trafalgar Square for Chanukah (p. 6) Kids will love The Very Hungry Caterpillar Show at the Ambassadors Theatre (p. 46) ABBA fans, don’t miss the opening of ABBA: Super Troupers at Southbank Centre (p. 38) Listen to Cuban bands at VIVA CUBA! at Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club (p. 53) Go back in time on a costumed guided tour of 18 Stafford Terrace (p. 30) East London Brass performs The Snowman at Greenwich Wintertime tonight (p. 52) Opera star Katherine Jenkins returns to the Royal Albert Hall for Christmas (p. 53) Attend a magical carol concert in aid of Unicef at St Paul’s Cathedral (p. 31) Be amazed by Disney on Ice: Passport to Adventure at The O2, opening today (p. 14) Have a midnight feast at Sexy Fish in Berkeley Square with its late-night menu Enjoy the latest commercial club beats at Freedom’s Soho Sound Sessions (p. 73) See funnyman Bill Bailey’s new Christmas Larks! show at Shepherd’s Bush Empire Enjoy an afternoon of sky-high carol singing at The View from The Shard (p. 32) Watch dedicated swimmers dive into The Serpentine lake in Hyde Park The Harrods sale kicks off at 10am today – don’t miss the dancing butlers (p. 55) Join the London Concert Orchestra at the Barbican for Star Wars and Beyond Live at Zédel presents Christmas cabaret with Miss Hope Springs and Rula Lenska Indulge in an Iranian supper at the latest Dishoom, new on Kensington High Street London football clubs go head-to-head as Spurs play West Ham at Wembley Dance your way into 2018 with DJ Greg Wilson at Camden’s Jazz Café (p. 53)

PREVIOUS PAGE: ALL IMAGES © ISTOCK. THIS PAGE: HORSE SHOW © KIT HOUGHTON; MARIAH CAREY © ISTOCK; TENNIS COURTESY OF ROYAL ALBERT HALL

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

For more ideas visit www.wheretraveler.com

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TRADITIONAL

WAYS TO CELEBRATE

Christmas IN LONDON

1. CAROL SINGING There is nothing to beat the sound of a heavenly choir echoing through the vast spaces of St Paul’s or Westminster Abbey.

For a more intimate setting, try St Martin-in-the-Fields by Trafalgar Square (make sure to take tea in the Crypt café). Another grand, historic setting for carols is the Royal Albert Hall, though its carol concerts are relaxed, singalong affairs. Free open-air carols

(Dec 11-22) can be found in Trafalgar Square, 4. BOARD GAMES where a series of choirs take up hour-long The Xbox and PlayStation may have taken slots at the gigantic Christmas tree which over in recent years, but the family board is Norway’s annual gift to London. game is one Christmas tradition that will surely never die out. In fact, board games 2. PANTOMIMES have received a new lease of life among Popularly known as ‘panto’, this is one British London’s hipsters: for proof, head to Christmas tradition that always perplexes Draughts in Hackney, which styles itself visitors. Pantomimes are bawdy, raucous as ‘London’s first board game café’. Funded adaptations of popular fairytales, full of sexual by Kickstarter, it offers more than 600 board innuendo, men dressing up as women and games with your tea or beer. The Loading vice versa. Audiences are expected to sing bars in Dalston and Stratford also have more along and shout out catchphrases. Peter Pan than 100 games, while you’ll find many at Wembley Arena will be the most expensive trendy pubs with a small selection of board and high-tech panto yet staged, with a games: in Soho, enjoy a Sunday roast drone playing Tinkerbell and a LED screen. followed by a board game or two at The Crown and Two Chairmen on Dean Street.

3. WHITE CHRISTMAS

White Christmases were common when Charles Dickens was a lad, but the last proper one in London was in 2010. Showbusiness gets into the snow business with the utterly magical Slava’s Snowshow at the Royal Festival Hall, as well as family favourite The Snowman, Snowman based on the classic children’s book by Raymond Briggs, which is on at The Peacock theatre. Warner Bros.

Studio Tour London – The Making of Harry Potter also gets into the spirit with Hogwarts in the Snow.

5. THE QUEEN’S SPEECH Rudyard Kipling wrote the first Christmas message for King George V to deliver to the nation over the radio in 1932. Every year since then (except in 1969), the nation has stopped for a short while to hear the monarch speak of that year’s tumultuous events, and to offer hope and comfort for the future. To get you in the mood, visit some of London’s royal sites: from Westminster Abbey, where kings and queens are married and crowned; through Windsor and Buckingham Palace, where they reside; to the Tower of London, where some royals have met their bitter end.

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SOMERSET HOUSE ICE RINK © JAMES BRYANT; CHRISTMAS PUDDING RACE COURTESY

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harles Dickens can take the most credit for reviving Christmas rituals that had lain dormant since his childhood: his role in these traditions are celebrated in the film, The Man Who Invented Christmas.

The white Christmas we’re dreaming of may elude London, but it was common in Dickens’ youth, and thus the capital in A Christmas Carol is given a snowy backdrop. He also writes of feasts, carols and Christmas pudding.

Most importantly, Dickens captures the Christmas spirit. You will find that in London, when the traditional British stiff upper lip softens to sing carols under the giant tree in Trafalgar Square, or to down mulled wine. As Dickens writes: ‘Merry Christmas to all of us, my dears. God bless us… God bless us, every one!’

THE QUEEN AND BRUSSELS SPROUT © ISTOCK; MEERKATS COURTESY OF ZSL LONDON ZOO; SCROOGE COURTESY OF THE MAN WHO INVENTED CHRISTMAS; SOMERSET HOUSE SKATER © JAMES BRYANT; THE SNOWMAN COURTESY OF THE PEACOCK

This page clockwise from below: fun in the snow, Slava’s Snowshow; the Queen; ZSL London Zoo; The Man Who Invented Christmas

There are few more magical places to celebrate Christmas than London. After all, this is where many traditions took root, says Alex Wellington

CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS | WHERE NOW

Clockwise from this image: Somerset House; Great Christmas Pudding Race; mulled wine; Scrabble; mince pie

6. CHRISTMAS GIFTS

SOMERSET HOUSE ICE RINK © JAMES BRYANT; CHRISTMAS PUDDING RACE COURTESY OF XMAS PUDDING RACE; MULLED WINE, SCRABBLE AND MINCE PIE © ISTOCK

MAN WHO INVENTED CHRISTMAS; SOMERSET HOUSE SKATER © JAMES BRYANT; THE SNOWMAN COURTESY OF THE PEACOCK

s Are you haunted by the Ghost of Christmas Present? This is the terrifying spectre of seeing your loved ones force a brave smile when the gifts they unwrap don’t match their expectations! Christmas shopping is an annual ritual which some adore, but many others fear. Yet in London you’ll be spoiled for choice. Hamleys is the world’s finest shop for children’s toys, and you will find huge pop-up Christmas markets at Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park, the Southbank Wintertime Festival, the new Greenwich Winter Time Festival, at London Bridge City and by Tate Modern.

7. MINCE PIES Mince pies used to be made with actual meat (hence the name), but nowadays they are filled instead with raisins, currants and spices.

You’ll find them added to the menus of many London cafés over the Christmas period, often served with cream or brandy butter.

Some of the best places to buy them include branches of Konditor & Cook, St John’s Bakery on Ropewalk in London Bridge, and Holborn Dining Room and Delicatessen on High Holborn. And, of course, Fortnum & Mason

and Harrods are filled with festive delicacies.

8. BRUSSELS SPROUTS In these Brexit times, it might seem strange to have an annual British tradition that has anything to do with Brussels!

And yet these strong-tasting green vegetables have become an inescapable part of a traditional Christmas roast. Once always boiled to within an inch of its soggy life, the humble Brussels sprout has been rescued by modern London chefs, who may serve it with Parmesan cheese, bacon, pine nuts or pistachios, and often sautéed or roasted rather than boiled. Last year, Sutton and Sons chip shop (in Stoke Newington, Islington and Hackney) invented yet another twist: theirs are deep-fried and delicious.

9. MULLED WINE There’s nothing like a good mulled wine to warm the cockles of your heart on a cold December day. You won’t have to look hard for it: many pubs place a steaming vat of the moreish concoction on their bars in the run-up to Christmas. Made by heating red wine with spices such as cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg, mulled wine

was first introduced to Britain by the Romans.

A version known as ‘Smoking Bishop’ appears in Dickens’ A Christmas Carol.

10. ICE SKATING What do you mean, ice skating is not a traditional British pastime? In Victorian times, the Thames would freeze over so solidly that Londoners would hold Frost Fairs on the ice – an elephant was even brought to one!

The first artificial skating rinks were introduced to London in 1870. The magic of skating with historic London as a backdrop is recreated at landmark venues such as the Tower of London, the Natural History Museum, Somerset House and Hampton Court Palace.

11. ECCENTRICITY Eccentricity has long been a key part of the British national character. Watch annual Santa runs: you’ll find Santas racing in full costume in both Victoria Park and Clapham Common (3 Dec), on the banks of the Thames (6 Dec), and in Battersea Park (9 Dec). Fancy some traditional Christmas pudding? Then look for the fastest, not the tastiest! The 37th annual Great Christmas Pudding Race takes place in Covent Garden (2 Dec).

12. CHRISTMAS LIGHTS Paris is known as the City of Light, but over the Christmas period London could justifiably steal the title. The capital will seem ablaze with twinkling fairy lights when you head out to do w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 11

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Whether it’s Evita or Grizabella, Elaine Paige has been playing iconic characters for decades. Kohinoor Sahota interviews one of Britain’s greatest theatrical actresses, as she stars on stage in a festive pantomime

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rejections and eventual success, could be turned into a musical in itself.

‘You have to learn that things don’t always come when you want them to happen.

The way to achieve anything in life is to persevere. That’s what I did,’ she explains. She was even criticised for her height – she is only 5ft tall. ‘When I was cast in Evita, I couldn’t believe it. At last I got the job where my height didn’t matter! Thank God that Evita was only 5ft 2in.’

LEGENDARY ROLES Today, Paige is one of the biggest stars in the history of British musical theatre. She is responsible for creating iconic roles; she was the first person to play Eva Perón in Evita and, with only two weeks to learn the songs and dance routines, Grizabella in Cats. With such remarkable parts, including Florence in Chess and Norma Desmond in Sunset Boulevard, what has been her favourite role? ‘‘Evita will always stand out to me as being ‘the one’ because it was the first and it changed my life, utterly and completely, overnight.

It was a wonderful role to create.’

While Britain is famous for musicals, it is also famous for an altogether different genre: pantomimes. These family shows include slapstick humour, singalongs and gendercrossing actors. This month, Paige swaps her grace for gaudiness when she stars in Dick Whittington at the London Palladium.

‘I’m playing the villain, Queen Rat,’ she says.

‘She looks after the rats of London, and she, the vermin-ness, is hoping to take over the city.

If any American people want to see it, the only thing I can liken it to is The Drowsy Chaperone. If they saw that show in New York, they’d understand. This is full-on, high-energy entertainment. Much fun. A lot of laughter.’

Another crucial part of any pantomime is its elaborate outfits. ‘I have the most beautiful costume designed by Hugh Durrant,’ Paige says. ‘He used to create costumes for Cher, so they are way out there. It’ll be a spectacle.’

ALL OF LONDON’S A STAGE Paige is an expert on London’s theatre scene.

When she is not on stage herself, she hosts a weekly BBC Radio 2 programme, Elaine Paige on Sunday. She reviews the latest shows, and

ELAINE PAIGE AS QUEEN RAT AND PORTRAIT COURTESY OF DICK WHITTINGTON

I

n 1977, Elaine Paige had been working in theatre for 10 years when she decided that she’d had enough: she had holes in her boots and couldn’t afford new clothes.

She was ready to give up acting and become a nursery nurse. ‘I began questioning myself’, she admits, opening up, ‘maybe I don’t have what it takes to make a good living at it. I was tired of not being able to go out for dinner and not afford a theatre ticket – it was tough.’

In fairytale fashion, she had her own fairy godfather: Dustin Hoffman made her promise that she would persist. A year later, beating Faye Dunaway, Shirley MacLaine and Liza Minnelli, she secured her big break: ‘As luck would have it, Evita came along and it saved me!’

Paige’s story, with constant

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Clockwise from far left: Elaine Paige in Dick Whittington; with Andrew Lloyd Webber, Tim Rice and Gary Bond at an Evita party

plays songs from musicals across the decades. When she’s asked why London’s theatre scene is the best in the world, she gushes: ‘Our theatre scene has always been one of the wonderful things we have in this country – it’s part of the reason that tourists come here, and certainly to London. There’s musicals, old and new, as well as wonderful plays – we are the best in the world for drama.’

Paige’s career took off during a period where new musicals were rife.

One of the biggest problems facing the London theatre scene now is the lack of new material, which means it may be harder for the next generation’s Elaine Paige to emerge. She explains: ‘It is one of the most difficult genres to write, pull off and get right. Producers don’t want to risk hundreds and thousands of pounds in mounting shows. They are afraid.’

MEASURING SUCCESS With successful shows (both critically and commercially), top 10 hits and a string of awards, how does Paige measure success?

‘It is about the audience and their enjoyment of what you are doing. I always worked in commercial theatre – here you always need to have the show be successful in order for it to continue. You don’t have any financial back-up as you do in subsidised theatre,’ she says.

In this country, one of the biggest honours you can receive is a CBE, MBE, OBE or Knighthood from the Queen.

In 1995, Paige was awarded an OBE for her services to British theatre. ‘It was an unbelievable joy!’ she says.

‘I’m a girl from the suburbs of north London, and I didn’t go to university. I would never have dreamt of this.’ And what was the experience like? ‘There was a band playing. As you step forward to receive your award, they play music relevant to you. They played Memory for me!’

As luck would have it, Evita came along and it saved me!

GROUP IMAGE © GETTY

ELAINE PAIGE AS QUEEN RAT AND PORTRAIT COURTESY OF DICK WHITTINGTON

ELAINE PAIGE | WHERE NOW

IT’S THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF THE YEAR Christmas is a special time of year for Paige, who loves the traditions that come with it.

In fact, the lucky people in London may find her not just singing on stage, but also on their doorsteps.

‘I do love to sing carols,’ she admits. ‘I have a neighbour who often gathers together people from his church and we sing carols.

It’s always good fun.’

As for the big day itself, Paige either visits somewhere sunny (Barbados or Palm Springs), or her sister’s home to spend time with her nieces. She laughs: ‘I am doing two shows a day! I am not sure whether I will have a desire to even get out of bed on Christmas Day.’ As this period brings a time for reflection, it feels fitting to ask Paige how she would like to be remembered. She is alarmed and, for once, not sure how to answer: ‘Oh my goodness me! What a question! I suppose I want to be remembered for my music, and what I have done in the theatre’.

We certainly agree.

From 9 Dec. Argyll St, W1F 7TE. T: 0844-874 0667. www.dickwhittingtonpalladium.com www.wheretraveler.com 13

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WHERE NOW | ELAINE PAIGE

CIRCUS SHOWS

ICE SHOWS

Since it premiered in 1994 in Edinburgh, Slava’s Snowshow (from 18 Dec) has toured the globe and, more recently, the UK. It’s now returning to the Royal Festival Hall for a fifth season. The artistic director of the St Petersburg Circus, Slava Polunin, leads the theatrical spectacle, which is influenced

by Charlie Chaplin and features clowns, giant balls and cobwebs. It’s suitable for overeights, but under-threes aren’t permitted.

Disney fans, make time to see Disney on Ice: Passport to Adventure at The O2 (20-30 Dec).

Go early to attend a pre-show party with music, magic shows, Caribbean beats, pirates and the chance to warm up with Zootropolis at a Fit to Dance workshop. Once the show starts, you’ll meet all your favourite characters including Mickey and Minnie Mouse and Anna and Elsa from Frozen, while you watch incredible ice skaters loop and jump around on the ice.

COMEDIES

What could be more British than a panto? Joel Horwood’s Jack and the Beanstalk at the Lyric Hammersmith is a fantastic fairytale about a boy who sells his only cow for some magic beans. His mother is furious, and throws the beans out of the window, only for them to grow into a huge beanstalk with a castle at the top – which is home to an evil giant. It’s suitable for over-sixes.

Nativity! The Musical at Eventim Apollo in Hammersmith (13-17 Dec) is a new musical based on the 2009 comedy film starring Martin Freeman and Ashley Jensen. Adapted for the stage by director Debbie Isitt, the show features new songs and familiar ones such as Sparkle and Shine, Nazareth and She’s the Brightest Star.

The farcical plot follows primary school teacher Mr Madden, who dreamt of being an actor or director. He settles for putting on a musical nativity play at St Bernadette’s school, with the help of his childlike teaching assistant, Mr Poppy.

Madden promises his students that a Hollywood producer will see the show – so what could possibly go wrong? Lots!

BALLETS Even if you’ve seen The Nutcracker (28-31 Dec) before, the Royal Albert Hall’s bespoke staging, lighting and new projections will leave you in awe. Adults and children alike will love Cinderella (from 9 Dec; left) at Sadler’s Wells. This fairytale love story is set in London during World War II, and follows a chance meeting that brings together Cinderella and a handsome RAF pilot, just before they’re parted because of the Blitz.

TRADITIONAL CONCERTS

CLASSIC STORIES

Raymond Gubbay’s Christmas Festival (13-24 Dec) at the Royal Albert Hall is bound to get you in the Christmas spirit: take your pick from a series of concerts, including the renowned King’s College Choir (15 Dec) and Carols by Candlelight (16 & 22-24 Dec). You can listen to West End stars perform at Jingle Bell Christmas (17 & 19 Dec), or the pop opera singer Katherine Jenkins (18 Dec). The festival continues with 500 singers performing the Messiah (19 Dec), and Classic Carols with Alan Titchmarsh (20 Dec).

Celebrating 20 consecutive years on stage, the classic children’s tale The Snowman (to 31 Dec; right) is set to a wonderful score by Birmingham Repertory Theatre at The Peacock. Based on the book by Raymond Briggs, it follows a boy who meets a magical snowman. Howard Blake’s music and lyrics – including Walking in the Air – will give you goosebumps, and transport you back to your own childhood as you watch the show with your children. Meanwhile, Matthew Warchus directs Charles Dickens’ timeless classic A Christmas Carol at The Old Vic in a new adaptation by Jack Thorne, starring Rhys Ifans.

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

PANTOMIMES

FROZEN CHARACTERS © DISNEY; JACK AND THE BEANSTALK © JAY BROOKS; CINDERELLA © HUGO GLENDINNING; THE SNOWMAN © TRISTRAM KENTON

A white Christmas is never guaranteed, but catch a festive show in London this winter and you’ll be sure to experience dancing snowflakes, snowmen and a blizzard, says Sarah Riches

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‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ N E W YO RK POST

THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com

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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

BAGS OF STYLE Every bag has a unique V&A print Reykjavik Laptop Tote Backpack, £150, Knomo, 47-49 Neal St, WC2H 9PZ

FROM LONDON From exclusive to limitededition treats, these gifts show her she’s special

- FOR HER -

TERRIFIC TRAYS This gallery has art-inspired gifts Barbara Rae Unique Platter, £500, Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington House, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD

DAZZLING DECORATIONS This is a tiny tree decoration Three Kings Gold Tiny Mug Decoration, £16.95, Emma Bridgewater, 81a Marylebone High St, W1U 4QL

MUSIC FOR YOUR EARS Listen to the radio or stream your favourite music Polka-dot Hepburn MKII Bluetooth Radio, £150, Emma Bridgewater, 81a Marylebone High St, W1U 4QL

THE SOUND OF MUSIC Limited-edition soap Michael Angove Red Roses Soap, Jo Malone, 101 Regent St, W1B 4EZ

RIGHT ON TIME Find handcrafted gifts in the OXO Tower Always on My Mind, Mr Jones Watches, £115, OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH

Top Pick BLOW YOU AWAY Try this innovative new hairdryer Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer, £299, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

PRETTY PYJAMAS This pyjama set is exclusive to Selfridges Olivia von Halle Pyjama Set, £250, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK

SENSE OF SMELL This candle is inspired by the goddess Athena Feu d’Agrumes Scented Mini Candle, £28, Diptyque Covent Garden, 38 Floral St, WC2E 9DG

FANTASTIC FRAGRANCES Enjoy iconic fragrances in a couture set Givenchy Live Irrésistible Eau de Parfum, £66, House of Fraser, 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF

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OPERA

PASSION, POWER AND POLITICS Sponsored by

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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

THE SOUND OF MUSIC A hands-free speaker that’s controlled by your voice Amazon Echo, £89.99, www.amazon.co.uk

FROM LONDON SKIN DEEP This Moroccan shaving serum has skin-calming properties Aēsop Moroccan Neroli Shaving Duet with Box, £53, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

These gifts, many of which you can only find in London, tell him you care

- FOR HIM -

Top Pick

BAGS FOR LIFE A functional yet stylish bag from Knomo Newbury 15in Briefcase, £329, Knomo, 47-49 Neal St, WC2H 9PZ

SMELL OF SUCCESS A new Givenchy fragrance Givenchy Gentleman Eau de Toilette, £66, House of Fraser, 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF TIME FOR BED This silk-satin set is printed in Italy Genevieve Short Silk Pyjama Set, Liberty, Regent St, W1B 5AH

GAME ON! These bats are handmade from Brazilian wood Frescobol Carioca Trancoso Beach Bats, £150, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

LIGHT UP YOUR LIFE Visit the OXO Tower for handcrafted gifts Jeeves Light, £197, OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH

LINKING UP These cuff links are embellished with Swarovski crystals Alexander McQueen Safety Pin Cufflinks, £315, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

TIME ON YOUR HANDS This Apple watch keeps you connected to your iPhone Apple Watch Edition, £1,349, John Lewis, Oxford St, W1C 1DX

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; MAN © ISTOCK

RAINY DAYS This chic accessory has a durable bamboo handle London Undercover Classic Whangee Handle Umbrella, £65, Liberty, Regent St, W1B 5AH

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SEE THE WONDERFUL

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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

BUILDING SIGHTS Create a mini version of the iconic clock Big Ben, £169.99, LEGO Store, 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP

BAGS OF FUN Pick up a classic piece featuring Cath Kidston’s famous prints Children’s Small Backpack, £25, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

FROM LONDON From novelty to luxury gifts, children will love these special presents

- KIDS -

TAKING NOTE Visit the Buckingham Palace Shop for royal souvenirs Royal Carriage Notebook, £5.95, Buckingham Palace Shop, 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP

BEAR HUGS An iconic British brand selling stuffed toys Baby Thomas Bear, £150, Burberry, 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB MARVELLOUS MACHINES Use this toy for education and entertainment UbTech Alpha1 Pro Robot, £500, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

CHECKMATE! Enjoy these travel games for children Travel Chess & Checkers, £17, Hamleys, 188196 Regent St, W1B 5BT

Top Pick CHOCOLATE TREATS This chocolate is part of the Roald Dahl 100 celebrations Bruce Bogtrotter’s Chocolate Fudge Cake Bar, £5.95, Rococo, 38 Earlham St, WC2H 9LH

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; CHILDREN © ISTOCK

SLEEP TIGHT Try this therapeutic blend of organic essential oils Aurelia Sleep Time Pillow Mist, £22, Liberty, Regent St, W1B 5AH

COSTUME CHANGE This baby brand has been around since 1993 Reindeer Sleepsuit, £16, JoJo Maman Bébé, 12 Cale St, SW3 3QU

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VISIT OUR NEW ONLINE GUIDE FOR TRAVEL TIPS, ITINERARIES AND TICKETS

LONDONPLANNER.COM Your friend in the city

THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | TRAVEL ESSENTIALS | FIRST VISIT ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS

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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

CHOCOLATE TREATS This is the chocolate brand loved by author Roald Dahl Red Velvet Truffles, £13.95, Prestat, 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS

FROM LONDON

CHEESY BUSINESS Taste a selection of award-winning cheeses Worldwide Winners, £38, Paxton & Whitfield, 93 Jermyn St, SW1Y 6JE

This is the season to be merry, so stock up on the finest food and drink GIN O’CLOCK A limited-edition bottle to mark the release of the film Kingsman: The Golden Circle No3 London Dry Gin, £42, Berry Bros, 3 St James’s St, SW1A 1EG

- FOOD & DRINK GOOD SPIRITS The world’s first Fairtrade vodka Fair Quinoa Vodka, £38.50, Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, W1X 7RJ

HAPPY HAMPERS This hamper is packed full of goodies, from pink Champagne truffles to rosé Champagne The Sweet Life, £125, Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, W1X 7RJ

CRAFTY BUSINESS Admire these hand-painted chocolates Chocolate Pralines, £34.99, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

Top Pick

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; CHEESE AND WINE © ISTOCK

BEAUTIFUL BITES Visit this upscale bakery specialising in French macarons Christmas Box of 14 Macarons, £33, Ladurée, 71-72 Burlington Arcade, 51 Piccadilly, W1J 0QX

SMELL THE COFFEE Try more than 40 coffee creations with this machine Lumio Automatic Coffee Machine by Krups, £119.99, Nescafé, 54 Regent St, W1B 4DY

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THE VIEW YOU’LL NEVER FORGET

Book Online & Save

londoneye.com Conceived and designed by Marks Barfield Architects.

‘Coca-Cola’, the Dynamic Ribbon Device and the design of the ‘Coca-Cola Contour Bottle’ are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company.

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Chiswick House & Gardens; Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew; Syon Park

Light up your trip!

Wrap up warm to explore three charming outdoor trails that are illuminated by magical festive lights, says Sarah Riches It’s that time of year again – a time for gloves and scarves, hot chocolate and mulled wine, and the return of striking winter walks on the fringe of the city.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (p. 30) is beautiful in any season, but to see it at its most spectacular, visit during Christmas at Kew. Each year, a mile-long trail that winds around the gardens is lit up with more than a million lights every evening. Expect a magical world of singing trees, ribbons of light, giant baubles and a flickering fire garden.

Along the way you can roast chestnuts on a fire and little ones can meet Father Christmas in his grotto. The finale – a 20-minute light and laser show across the lake in front of Palm House – will be the highlight of your trip.

Nick Thompson, Kew’s commercial events manager, says: ‘This year’s new route has an array of light and sound installations.

The Great Broad Walk Borders – the world’s longest double herbaceous border – will form part of the trail for the first time with a host of giant trees lining the promenade, made from thousands of colourful, sparkling flowers. Also

new this year will be an ethereal spectacle of light and sound spanning Kew’s lake, with the lake’s two islands coming to life as angelic voices call and respond across the water.’

The Enchanted Woodland trail at Syon Park (p. 37) runs around a lake in the grounds of Syon House. As well as illuminated fountains and statues, expect to see displays of flashing lights, spotlights lighting up trees and a lawn of twinkling fairylights. The finale sees the Great Conservatory glowing with lasers and flying stars.

Magical Lantern Festival at Chiswick House & Gardens returns for a second year with a new range of illuminated lanterns and sculptures. Last year saw a Chinese dragon, a pat of flamingos and a group, or dazzle, of zebras, some of which appeared to float on water. This year there will be a new range of lantern sculptures, including ones of Father Christmas and his reindeers, and a giant lantern recreation of an ancient city from China’s Song Dynasty. Just like the zebras, no doubt you’ll find them all dazzling (www.chiswickhouseandgardens.org.uk).

HAMPSTEAD HEATH Meadows and woodland cover this vast space (above). Highlights include three swimming ponds, a pergola, 17th-century Kenwood House and seeing the whole of London from the top of Parliament Hill. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk

RICHMOND PARK One of London’s eight Royal Parks, this wild space covers 2,500 acres and is best known for its deer. Don’t miss the Isabella Plantation, which brims with colour, even in winter. www.royalparks.org.uk

WANSTEAD FLATS Even London locals aren’t aware of this 334acre space in the east of the capital. Its open grasslands make up the southern part of Epping Forest, once a royal hunting ground. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk

CHISWICK HOUSE & GARDENS AND HAMPSTEAD HEATH © ISTOCK; ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW © RBG; SYON PARK © SIMON HADLEIGH-SPARKS

Winter walks

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The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) welcomes the world’s travel & tourism industry

andriuXphoto.com

Preferred charity partner

Please visit the concierge desk during your stay - nobody knows the UK like Les Clefs d’Or.

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Please check for Christmas closures.

Buckingham Palace

Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse.

149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 0207499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

ArcelorMittal Orbit

The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy. It’s closed to the public, except in summer. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Changing the Guard Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather).

Free. From 10am; please check for dates. www.householddivision.org.uk.

Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

This 115m-tall observation tower was designed

by Sir Anish Kapoor. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map.

The clock-face of Big Ben Station: Stratford.

Chelsea Physic Garden

is made up of 300 panes of glass that are only cleaned once every five years

This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I. Daily 10am-1pm, but call before visiting.

Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk.

Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8.

Station: Westminster.

London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673. Adult £10.50; child £6.95. Mon 11am-5pm garden only; Tue-Fri 11am-6pm garden and shop; Sun 11am-6pm garden, shop & café. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map.

Station: Sloane Square.

The British Library

Cutty Sark

The world’s largest library. To 28 Feb: Harry Potter: A History of Magic. Celebrating JK Rowling’s first Harry Potter book. Please check for times. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Banqueting House

Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of artist Dennis Severs. Silent night tour Mon, Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevers house.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary in this home. Please check for staged performances, talks and tours. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm.

Please check for prices. www.drjohnsonshouse.org.

17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9.

Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace.

4.30pm-9pm. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map.

Station: Eltham.

Fulham Palace This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. £11. Mon-Thur 12.30pm-3.30pm; Sun noon-4pm.

Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

G

ADVERTORIAL

r at te in w r u o y p u Warm

E R T N E C K N A SOUTHB this festive season Clockwise from top: Winter Market at Southbank Centre; Slava’s Snowshow; Finnish Rooftop Sauna; A Vintage New Year’s Eve Party

et into the festive spirit this Wintertime at Southbank Centre.

Sip mulled wine and find artisan gifts in the Winter Market, with traders set up in Nordic-inspired chalets dotted along the riverside.

Make memories at magical shows for the whole family, such as Slava’s Snowshow. Returning to Royal Festival Hall, it culminates in a blizzard that leaves you knee-deep in snow.

Elsewhere at Southbank Centre, explore the music, lyrics and lives of ABBA in ABBA: Super Troupers. A tour guide will lead you around nine rooms packed with the story of the Swedish pop sensation.

Seeking relaxation in the midst of the busy holiday season? Sweat in an authentic Finnish Rooftop Sauna in the heart of London. After your steam, grab a drink from the Rooftop Bar and enjoy views of the city.

If you feel peckish, there’s festive food pop-ups across the site; you can cosy up at Bar Under the Bridge, have a private party in a snow globe as part of Jimmy’s Lodge, or savour hot chocolate from Beltane & Pop. Count down to the New Year as Royal Festival Hall transforms into a nightclub with entertainment. Boogie the night away and watch the London New Year’s Eve fireworks.

Access to the terrace and balcony to view the fireworks is weather dependent

PARTY © VIPASANA ROY; SLAVA’S SNOWSHOW AND CHRISTMAS MARKET COURTESY OF SOUTHBANK CENTRE; ROOFTOP SAUNA COURTESY OF MIKI SORDI – AALTO UNIVERSITY

SIGHTSEEING

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S T O L I P L I V E D E DAR S E S U B G N I Y L F D N A

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Step inside To tacular steam engine ec sp d an s ew vi ng stunni

£15.30 I FAMILY TICKETS FROM .20 £4 N RE ILD CH I ADULTS £9.80

towerbridge.org.uk I 020 7403 3761 #insidetowerbridge Tower Bridge is owned, funded and managed by the City of London.

THE MONUMENT

311 STEPS 1 BREATHTAKING VIEW Enjoy 360º views from one of London’s most historic attractions.

TICKETS: ADULTS £5.00 I CHILDREN £2.50 themonument.org.uk I 020 7403 3761 The Monument is owned, funded and managed by the City of London.

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SIGHTSEEING Go Ape Alexandra Palace

HMS Belfast

Kensington Palace

This treetop obstacle course with ladders, bridges and zip lines has opened for kids at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. Wed-Sun from 9am. Adult £33; child from £25. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329.

Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.

Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm.org. uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. Diana: Her Fashion Story. An exhibition dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £17; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Thur-Sun, plus 18-20 & 27 Dec from 9am.

Adult £35; child £27. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses.

Its gardens are said to be haunted. First floor closed to 28 Mar 2018. Please check for times. Adult £10.80; child £5.40. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map.

Station: Richmond.

Handel & Hendrix in London Former home dedicated to the life and works of the German-born British baroque composer George Frideric Handel, who made his home in London in 1712, and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix.

9 Dec: Event celebrating The Beggar’s Opera.

Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm. Please check for event prices and times. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhouse. org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685.

D6. Station: Bond Street.

Houses of Parliament Site of Parliament since 1265 and still a royal palace, the current building including Big Ben was built in the 19th century. Tours every Sat in Dec, plus Tue-Fri from 22 Dec. Advance audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11. On the day audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (first child free); guided tour adult £28, child £2. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8.

Station: Westminster.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood House and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem.

Regular family events. Free admission. Please check for times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood.

Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

KidZania London

Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire.

Please check for prices and times. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Parents take a back seat here. Includes a TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy. Daily from 10am, call for closing times. Advance adult from £15; child from £18. On the day adult from £18; child from £39. www.london. kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map.

Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Keats House

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs

This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and items. Please check for regular literature events and free family activity days. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm.

Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/ things-to-do/keats-house/. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Tickets also include the entrance to London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridge experience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Jewel Tower

Explore more than 60 real-life activities

© 2017 KidZania, S.A. de C.V. All Rights Reserved.

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Sightseeing Coach Tours l Open Top Bus Tours Warner Bros. Studio Tour London l London Bike Tours Attraction Tickets l Groups l UK & Paris Rail Trips 020 7630 2039

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SIGHTSEEING The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. Not for small children or the faint-hearted! Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com.

County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please

check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com.

County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. As well as an aquarium, penguin beach and endangered Sumatran tigers, you can see the Land of the Lions enclosure – which features Asiatic lions in surroundings designed to resemble an Indian national park. Daily 10am-4pm.

Adult £22.73; child £17.73. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Madame Tussauds Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure!

Please check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm.

Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

The O2 To 7 Jan: My Name Is Prince. The world premiere of the official exhibition about the legendary musician Prince, with stage outfits, instruments and hand-written lyrics. 9.30am-7.30pm. Tickets £12-£25.

To 4 Feb: Elvis on Tour. Elvis Presley, the king of rock ’n’ roll, returns to The O2 with a new exhibition of 200 artefacts from the Graceland archives from 1969 to 1977. The exhibition features items that were seen in the documentary, Elvis on Tour. 9.30am7.30pm. Tickets £12-£25. Daily noon-8pm. www.the o2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. During a temporary conservation project, you can see the ceiling up close on a 50-minute tour from an observation deck (adult £10; child £5).

Check for guided tours. There’s a museum about the history of Greenwich at the Visitor Centre. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map.

Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. Wed, Sat-Sun pre-booked tours 11am, drop-in 2pm-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

8 DECEMBER 2017 – 13 MAY 2018

www.royalcollection.org.uk +44 (0)303 123 7301

Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe . To 1 Jan: Christmas at Kew. Stroll through a tunnel of lights, candlelit woodland, a scented fire garden and glittering installations (p. 24). Daily from 10am, please check for closing times. Adult £12.50; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

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SIGHTSEEING The Royal Institution of Great Britain Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check the website for its programme of talks. Mon-Fri 8am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org.

21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6.

Station: Green Park.

The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has regular astronomy workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows throughout the day. The Sky Tonight. Daily planetarium show that explores the moon, constellations, planets and deep space objects. Adult £8; child £5.50. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Don’t miss Oculus: An Eye into St Paul’s, a 270-degree film experience, for an excellent overview. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk.

St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

Tower Bridge Exhibition This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks. You can also tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9.80; child

£4.20. Please check for bridge lift times. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-4.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-4.30pm. Adult £21.50; child £9.70. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

SEA LIFE London One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a beautiful glass walkway above 16 sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission). Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london.

County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Shrek’s Adventure!

Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed show,s where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century and home to royalty for three centuries. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7.

Station: St James’s Park.

St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with markets, shops, galleries and restaurants. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brassrubbing centre and live classical music (some free).

Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. www.wheretraveler.com 31

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SIGHTSEEING Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www. theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day you can

see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. If you pre-book you can also do yoga on Saturdays at 8.30am (£45). Use the interactive Tell: scopes to learn about London’s past, present and future. You can also experience two unique 360-degree views of the London skyline with the dual entry Day & Night Experience tickets. You can see London shine in the day time and then return to see the city sparkle at night (p. 35)! It also hosts silent discos every Sat 10pm (£37.50). Sun-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-10pm. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theview fromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

SEE INSIDE THE WORLD FAMOUS ROYAL ALBERT HALL GROUPS 15+ Special rates apply

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. A fascinating insight into filmmaking. To 28 Jan: Hogwarts in the Snow. See the studio dressed for Christmas, and get to grips with different types of ‘snow’ used on set. Please check for times. Adult £39; child £31. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Please check for times and prices. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. Mon-Sat, please check for times. Adult £22; child £9. www.westminster-abbey. org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7.

Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. 2-3 Dec: Santa Weekend. Meet Santa and take a husky ride. £8. Otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm.

Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £12.26; child £6.75. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

ROYAL ALBERT HALL

Hyde Park Winter Wonderland To 1 Jan: One of the UK’s biggest winter festivals, held every festive season. As well as a Bavarian market, traditional fairground and big wheel, there is an enormous outdoor ice rink.

There’s also a show tent. Daily 10am-10pm. Free admission. www.hydeparkwinterwonderland.com.

Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 0300-061 2000. E6. Station: Hyde Park.

RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT End your tour with a luxurious afternoon tea

Call: 020 7589 8212 royalalberthall.com

/royalalberthall @royalalberthall

Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier.

Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm; Sat-Sun 11am-3.40pm. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london.

Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise

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SIGHTSEEING departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat. Other cruises also available. Please check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7740 0400.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 11.45am-4.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.50. Discounted joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye available. www.londoneye.com.

London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the River Thames, with departures from 21 major piers every 20 minutes. There are discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment are valid. Using GPS tracking to pinpoint your location, it provides a real-time audio explanation of the sights as you pass them. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off adult £16.30; child £8.15. www.mbnathamesclippers.com.

T: 020-7001 2200.

Capital Taxi Tours

Evan Evans

A Blue Badge or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people.

Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who tour. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary.

T: 020-8590 3621.

The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours. com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield Market and City gardens. Free-£13. www.city oflondonguides.com. Departure points vary.

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

WINNER OF THE TOP HORROR ATTRACTION IN THE WORLD WORLDWIDE ATTRACTION AWARDS

Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service with live audio commentary departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10.20am-3.30pm; from St Katharine’s to Greenwich 11.20pm-4.30pm. Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

Thamesjet Try Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10.30am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Various departure points.

T: 020-7740 0400.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours.

A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £31.50; child £18. www.bigbustours. com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

IMMER AND A H SIVE THEATRE EAR SCAR T PUMPING

Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk.

Departs from bus stop 6 at Trafalgar Square. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 11am. www. bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop six, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753.

Station: Charing Cross.

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of construction, fires and World War II bombs. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains, the Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse, which was discovered in 1848 and is now open to the public.

Explore this fascinating insight into ancient life in the City on a hour-long guided tour and discover the remains of the Roman Bathhouse which lies hidden beneath offices. £8 adult; £6 child. Please check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk.

101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

E MAZ E!

TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDONS SPOOKY HISTORY

TheLondonBridgeExperience.com The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY FREE audio guides available

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SIGHTSEEING Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours

Jack the Ripper Tours

See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off.

One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks, offering an intriguing look at the infamous Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East Tube station. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour. com. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.

More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. 10am & 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station. www.bee-midtown.org. 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA. T: 020-7078 7077. D7/8. Station: Holborn.

London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganache in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this two-hour tour by a former cocoa trader. Along the way you’ll learn how chocolate is made. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm.

KIDRATED CHRISTMAS TOP TEN KidRated is a website where days out, attractions, events and activities are all reviewed by children using photos, video clips and short films. In a nutshell, it’s a TripAdvisor by kids. And, because everything is scored out of 10 on their fingers, it’s easy for you to see how good (or bad!) our kids thought their experiences were. kidrated.com

2

Drop in to Christmas at Kew and see the amazing illuminations plus a brandVisit the Warner Bros new North Studio Tour – The Making Pole Village of Harry Potter and see

4

the model of Hogwarts used in the movies, covered in snow

Visit HAMLEYS and be served by the elves who work there over the Christmas period

Visit Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park where there are rides, shows and events for all ages

9

3

Book a free trip to the Sky Garden and have a mince pie in the café

Let kids take part in the

KIDZANIA

C HRIS TM A S PA R A DE at Westfield or grab some last-minute gifts or the first bargains of the sales at Westfield shopping centre Watch a historical re-enactment by the actors at the Tower of London and marvel at the Crown Jewels

EXPERIENCE THE THRILL OF SKATING AROUND THE GLITTERING CHRISTMAS TREE AT THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM ICE RINK

Matthew Bourne’s

Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including Tower of London, St Paul’s and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or spook yourself with an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£400 per person). Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondon helicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

London Horror Tours Be spooked by ghost stories and tales of Jack the Ripper, Sweeney Todd and the Krays on tours run

by Dr Jack, an actor, entertainer and former guide.

Please visit its Facebook page for more information, and call for times and prices. Departure points vary.

T: 07722-247660.

London Literary Pub Crawl Thur & Sat: See where the giants of the London

literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity The Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British Film industry and contemporary writers. Please check for times.

Tickets £24. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com.

12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

London Tailored Tours Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners.

Themed tours include Borough Market, fashion and Brick Lane. Please check for times and prices. www.londontailoredtours.com. T: 020-3289 0542.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book.

As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, there are routes around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www. walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Original London Sightseeing Walk Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre. Choose from Changing the Guard at 10am, Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm, and Jack the Ripper at 3.30pm (from Tower Hill Station). £9 per walk, or free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £18. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour

CINDERELLA

comes to Sadler’s Wells – it’s a love story set in London during World War II, which forms part of Bourne’s New Adventures 30th anniversary celebrations

The London Helicopter Tour

VISIT WESTFIELD LONDON’S SNOWFLAKE GROTTO FOR A GIFT AND PHOTO WITH SANTA CLAUS

With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. To 28 Feb: All 24 and 48-hour tickets are extended by an extra 24 hours and include an extended Greenwich River Cruise. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7.

Station: Charing Cross.

ILLUSTRATIONS © ISTOCK

GoToMidtown Tours

£15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from The Ritz hotel by Green Park. www.tourguides. org.uk. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.

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Royal Albert Hall Tours Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Most days throughout the year; call for times.

Adult £13.75; child £6.75. www.royalalberthall.com.

Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4.

Station: South Kensington.

Royal Opera House Tour behind the scenes for an insight into the venue’s history. Most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but please check. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondon bynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours) This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs. Open daily, please check for times.

Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10.

Station: Blackfriars.

Wembley Tours

THE SHARD AND TOWER BRIDGE © ISTOCK

Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; please check for dates.

Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium.com/ wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage.

Tours are in either a four or six-seater carriage with an adjustable hood depending on the weather. £475 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses.co.uk.

T: 020-8572 3155.

Yonda A talking car – what next? On a Yonda tour, you’ll feel like a real Londoner as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights and little-known cobbled streets.

The car is fitted with technology that guides you along well-researched routes, giving turn-by-turn directions and a fun, informative commentary along the way based on your location. It can even cope with road closures! Congestion Charge is included in the price. £60 per 90-minute tour. www.goyonda. com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. To 18 Feb: Imagining the Divine: Art and the Rise of World Religions. The development of religious art over the centuries. Free admission, charges for special events. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Free

CAPITAL TAXI TOURS LTD

CAPITAL TAXItaxi TOURS LTD The family friendly tour company “WeThe meet as strangers andtour partcompany as friends” family friendly taxi “We meet as strangers and part as friends” London’s oldest and best Taxi Tour company offers more London’s oldest andthan best200 Taxitours Tourof London and the countryside company offers more than 200 tours of Sit backLondon and relax asthe your Registered driver and countryside Guide takes you in an Iconic Sit back and relax asaround your Registered driver Licensed London Black Taxi Guide takes you around in an Iconic Licensed London Black Taxi Choose from 3,4,5,and 8 hour London tours.

Besidesfrom the 3,4,5,and main attractions Choose 8 hour explore Londonparts tours. of London tourists never get to see.

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General Sightseeing tours, Themed tours include Harry Potter, Beatles, James tours Bond, General Sightseeing tours, Themed Dr Who,Harry JackPotter, the Ripper, Ghost tours, plus include Beatles, James Bond, many more.

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Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor, Downton Abbey Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor, Downton Abbey

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Hazy shade of winter The View from The Shard‘s Winter Experience (p. 32) sees the interior of Western Europe’s tallest building decorated with winter plants, pine trees and a Christmas tree – London’s highest – which makes you feel like you’re in your very own Narnia.

Don’t have a cosy coat to hand? Then warm up over hot chocolate, which you can design yourself – choose unique flavours by Montezuma and a selection of toppings.

You can also sip gold-flake Champagne Lanson 23 for a special treat. If you visit on a Sunday afternoon this December, you will find a choir singing Christmas carols.

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SIGHTSEEING

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See

By Night

admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. To 1 Jan: Christmas at Blenheim. See the grounds lit up with stunning illuminations. Please check for opening times. Adult £24.90; child £13.90. www. blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Chartwell

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £18 Child - £10

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

www.seelondonbynight.com

The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill was bought by the National Trust and maintained on behalf of the nation, while Churchill and his wife Clementine were still living in it. Though the house, which is decorated as it was in the 1930s, is closed over the winter, the lovely kitchen garden and woodland remain open for visitors. Please check for prices and times. www. nationaltrust.org.uk. Mapleton Road, Westerham, Kent, TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868381. Off map. Station: Victoria or London Bridge to Edenbridge or Oxted.

Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the Thames. Visit the Tudor kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for the king and all his courtiers, and see the grand Henry’s State Apartments including the Great Hall.

Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £20.90; child £10.45. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Hever Castle and Gardens

Discover the world’s greatest city in 90 minutes with Yonda, your very own virtual tour guide

London’s Sightseeing Car

Dating back to the 13th-century, this was the home of Anne Boleyn, the second wife of King Henry VIII. Please check for times and prices. www.hevercastle. co.uk. Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Off map. Station: Victoria and London Bridge to Edenbridge Town.

Leeds Castle Fairytale 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, and see 100 species of birds in the aviary.

From 2 Dec: The Traditions of Christmas. See the castle decked out for the season. 2-3, 9-10 & 16-17 Dec: Christmas market. Grounds & garden daily 10am-5pm; castle 10.30am-4pm. Adult £24.90; child £16.90. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom.

Regular after-dark tours, park runs, yoga and gardening clubs. From 2 Dec: House Sat-Sun 11am-4pm; garden daily 10am-dusk. Adult £8.80; child £4.40. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

To book, please call 020 3621 5662, visit goyonda.com or talk to your concierge

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm.

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Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.royalcollection.org. uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Check for times and prices. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

LOSE YOURSELF IN THE

CROWN JEWELS

Treasures that united the kingdom

Syon Park This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is home to the Duke of Northumberland. Don’t miss the interiors, Grade I-listed landscape gardens and Great Conservatory (p. 24). Please check for times and prices. www.syonpark.co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.

Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and aviary. Please check for times.

Adult: £10; child £5. www.waddesdonmanor.org.

Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Don’t miss Merlin: The Dragon Tower and displays of medieval weaponry, as well as regular falconry displays. The dungeon, with actors, is a highlight. Please check for times. Castle adult £27; child £24; castle & dungeon adult £32; child £29. www.warwick-castle. com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map.

Station: Warwick.

Nearest tube Tower Hill

Book online today to save

Royal Collection Trust © 2017, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit The Tea Shop, then wander to the nearby Grade I-listed Watts Chapel. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tues £4.75); child free. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. Includes state apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 9.45am-4.15pm. Adult £20.50; child £12. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic house has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th duke and his family. Tour the house to find out more about its family history, art and antiques, then stroll around its Repton-inspired gardens. The abbey is closed until 9 Apr. Daily 11am-5pm.

Gardens and deer park adult £7.50; child £4.75. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333. Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick. www.wheretraveler.com 37

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Music exhibitions

As Swedish super troupers ABBA are celebrated in a new exhibition at the Southbank Centre, Emma Levine takes a look at what you can expect Did you sing along to SOS, warble to Waterloo, or dominate the dance floor for Dancing Queen? Whatever your connection to the Swedish super-group, the new exhibition ABBA: Super Troupers in the Southbank Centre is bound to strike a chord (from 14 Dec).

This major audio-visual event pays homage to one of the world’s most successful bands.

The foursome – comprising Agnetha Fältskog, Björn Ulvaeus, Benny Andersson and Anni-Frid Lyngstad – sold more than 380m albums and singles, a figure still rising thanks to their evergreen appeal.

So what was the secret of their success?

Perhaps it was more noticeable, or ironic, that they were at the height of their fame in Britain during the dark days of the 1970s, a time of financial crisis and high unemployment. There were bands producing angry protest music in response – but people also wanted to party, and ABBA’s carefree pop was perfect for that.

At this exhibition, fans can cast their eyes over gold capes and flamboyant costumes the band used on stage, handwritten lyrics

and sketches, musical instruments and album artwork. There are also theatrical backdrops recreating – of all things – the Grand Brighton hotel, where they stayed during their 1974 Eurovision Song Contest victory. None of the items on display have ever been exhibited before in the UK. In addition to the visuals, an ABBA exhibition wouldn’t be the full experience without music.

It travels through eras of the band’s history, with rooms playing specific soundtracks, each representing a moment in their past.

‘Since our songs, which were written in the 70s, are still being played today, it’s particularly interesting that the Southbank Centre is placing them in the temporal context in which they were created,’ comments Björn Ulvaeus.

And the location of the exhibition’s venue is fitting: ‘It’s just a few short steps away from Waterloo!’ Anni-Frid Lyngstad points out.

Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. www.southbankcentre.co.uk

ELVIS ON TOUR The King makes a welcome return to The O2, with the exhibition Elvis on Tour displaying more than 200 iconic items from his Graceland estate.

See his sequinned jumpsuits as well as his guitars. The exhibition also chronicles how Elvis impacted popular culture around the world, especially between 1969 and 1977. Compared to the exhibition here in 2014, which attracted more than 200,000 visitors, there are new elements including exclusive interviews with his touring band, which give a great insight into the legend’s life.

ABBA © TORBJORN CALVERO/PREMIUM ROCKSHOT; ELVIS COURTESY OF ELVIS ON TOUR

Thank you for the music

MY NAME IS PRINCE The music legend Prince is celebrated at The O2. This major exhibition honours the visionary music of Prince, in the actual venue where he enjoyed a record-breaking 21-night residency in 2007. See iconic items from his Paisley Park estate, such as his shimmering frock coat he wore for his 1984 Purple Rain tour, his diamond-studded cane and the Raspberry Beret cloud suit from 1985. www.theo2.co.uk

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Check for Christmas closures

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to the museum for an overview of the club’s 125-year history. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am. Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided adult £20; child £10. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20.75.

Museum only adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal. com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum

THEY FORGED THE LAST LINKS WITH THEIR LIVES/SIR JOHN FRANKLIN’S MEN DYING BY THEIR BOAT DURING THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE EXPEDITION © NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, LONDON

Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day, and find lots of activities for children. The Banknote Gallery features historic notes. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House This 18th-century townhouse is the last remaining home of the American diplomat, inventor and Founding Father, with tours led by costumed actors. Architectural tours Mon; historical shows Wed-Sun (check for times). Shows adult £8; child free. Mon tours: adult £6; child free. www. benjaminfranklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Huge number of treasures from the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe, Ancient Iran and India. Regular talks, events and performances. To 14 Jan: Scythians: Warriors of Ancient Siberia. Exploring this nomadic tribe, with exhibits including mummified horses preserved in the permafrost. Sat-Thur 10am5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org.

Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299.

D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

Clink Prison Museum

The Geffrye

In this former prison dating back to 1144, hands-on exhibits reveal London’s penal past and torture instruments. It’s said to be haunted. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Restored 18th-century almshouses with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to today.

Tours present the lives of London’s poor and elderly in former times (check for dates & times).

Tour adult £4; child free. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm.

Gardens only from 8 Jan. Admission free; charges for tours and special exhibitions. www.geffryemuseum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

The Design Museum Contemporary design and architecture museum.

To 28 Jan: Beazley Designs of the Year. Shortlisted architecture, digital, fashion, graphics, products and transport designs. To 15 Apr: Ferrari: Under the Skin.

Celebrating the 70th anniversary of Ferrari. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900.

Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The Fan Museum

The Guards Museum The history, stories and regimental heritage of the Foot Guards. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5.

Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

Horniman Museum & Gardens

Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan. You can enjoy afternoon tea in the muralled orangery. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm.

Adult £4; child £3. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk.

12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441.

Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Collection based upon the adventurous Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and big selection of musical instruments, plus gardens. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

Fashion and Textile Museum

House of Illustration

Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day. To 21 Jan: Louise Dahl-Wolfe: A Style of Her Own. The first major retrospective of the fashion photographer. TueWed & Fri 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-8pm; Sun 11am5pm. Adult £9; child free. www.ftmlondon.org.

83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664.

F11. Station: London Bridge.

The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake.

To 21 Jan: Gerald Scarfe: Stage and Screen. Celebrating the little-known production designs for stage and screen by the political cartoonist. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseof illustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 0203696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Charles Dickens Museum The former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist, is decorated in authentic Victorian style. Please check for themed Dickensian walks. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickens museum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ex-players tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelsea fc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Churchill War Rooms Explore the fortified bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II to plot the Allied victory. Daily 9.30am-6pm.

Adult £17.25; child £8.60. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Ship wreck Sir John Franklin and his 128-man crew sailed off on an Arctic exploration in 1845, attempting to discover the Northwest Passage. Two years later, their ships, HMS Erebus and Terror, disappeared with all men on board – and a series of expeditions failed to discover them. Rumours flew around of cannibalism, starvation and madness. It wasn’t until 2014 that the wreck of HMS Erebus was discovered, and then HMS Terror two years later ‘as a perfect time capsule’. At the National Maritime Museum, Death in the Ice: The Shocking Story of Franklin’s Final Expedition (p. 40) sheds light on their fate. On display are the explorers’ personal items, clothing and ship equipment, which piece together their trip and reveal the Victorians’ fascination with the Arctic. www.wheretraveler.com 39

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Household Cavalry Museum

Museum of London Docklands

Queen’s House

Go behind the scenes of the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments.

To 31 Dec: Music & Literature Season.

Celebrate the museum’s 10th anniversary. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards Parade Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk.

Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

The history of the River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands. Displays including London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the transatlantic slave trade and its links to the city. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844.

Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.

This 17th-century house, an architectural masterpiece by Inigo Jones, boasts 22 lavish rooms displaying a stunning fine art collection spanning 400 years, including works by Gainsborough and Hogarth. Don’t miss the spiral Tulip Stairs, location of ghost sightings, and the ornately painted Queen’s Presence Chamber ceiling. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422.

Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Displays relating to global conflicts, particularly those involving Britain, plus the powerful Holocaust Exhibition and art collection in the First World War Galleries. To 28 May: Age of Terror: Art Since 9/11. Works by more than 40 global artists. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 0207416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Jack the Ripper Museum Museum dedicated to the history of the East End in the 1880s, focusing on the serial killer. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; child £6. www.jackthe rippermuseum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. T: 0207488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a representation of the Jewish East End immigrant quarter. Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum The former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life. Permanent collections include his paintings, drawings and sculptures. Daily 10am-5.30pm, closed Tue. Adult £14; child £12. www.leightonhouse.co.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles from the film series, including the classic Aston Martin DB5. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London Transport Museum Located in the Grade II-listed Flower Market, the museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include iconic red buses and the world’s first Underground steam train. To 31 Jan: Poster Girls – A Century of Art and Design. Highlighting 20th and 21st-century female graphic artists who designed artwork for London Transport. Daily 10am6pm; Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.lt museum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum has thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval London, transporting you through the capital’s history to the present day.

Don’t miss the London 2012 Cauldron – the cauldron lit at the start of the Olympic Games.

Check for regular family events. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museumoflondon.org.uk.

150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844.

D10. Station: Barbican.

National Maritime Museum The world’s largest maritime museum, with 10 galleries including the Nelson, Navy, Nation gallery exploring the life of the naval hero, plus The Great Map – a huge interactive world map revealing stories from maritime history. To 7 Jan: Death in the Ice. Exploring the mystery of Sir John Franklin’s final expedition, where his ships were lost at sea and many men died lost in the Arctic region (p. 39). Check for regular family events.

Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum Find astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery to blue whale skeletons and dinosaur fossils. To 28 Feb: Whales: Beneath the Surface. Major exhibition exploring the lives of whales, dolphins and porpoises, with skeletons, flippers and skulls. It’s celebrating the arrival of Hope, the blue whale skeleton in Hintze Hall which replaced the museum’s much-loved diplodocus skeleton, Dippy. To 28 May: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. See the 100 best images in the annual exhibition. Daily 10am-5.50pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show, including a life-size model of the F-35 fighter jet, plus photographs and films. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rafmuseum. org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

Science Museum A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements, including a Red Arrows 3-D simulator, the IMAX theatre showing 3D films and the Apollo 10 command module. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk.

Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4.

Station: South Kensington.

Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century townhouse was owned by the architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation in 1837 and has been untouched since. To 15 Apr: Egypt Uncovered: Belzoni and the Tomb of Pharaoh Seti I. The story behind the museum’s most treasured possession. Check for tours. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm.

Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8.

Station: Holborn.

Bear necessities Most people, regardless of age, will remember stories of Winnie, Piglet and Eeyore. Now, the star of the show is celebrated in a new exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Winnie-the-Pooh: Exploring a Classic (from 9 Dec; p. 42) shows off original drawings by EH Shepard – on show for the first time in almost 40 years – and highlights the interplay between his illustrations and the charming stories written

by AA Milne. See original manuscripts from the books, character portraits copied from Milne’s son Christopher’s real toys (left), pen-and-ink drawings and a Christopher Robin nursery tea set presented to Princess Elizabeth in 1928.

PHOTOGRAPH OF AA MILNE AND CHRISTOPHER ROBIN © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY

Imperial War Museum

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Fall in love with Wimbledon Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites?

Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit.

Supported by

AW4878_Wimbledon_WHERELondonApril_fullpagead.indd 1 WL WIMBLEDON.indd 1

New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE

T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours

This neo-classical 18th-century building on the Thames houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants.

To 4 Feb: North: Fashioning Identity. How designers and photographers captured the essence of the North of England. Galleries daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.

At the venue of the famous championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits from recent champions, plus touch screens to watch past greats in action.

Look out for the ‘ghost’ of John McEnroe, and the virtual reality 360-degree experience narrated by Tim Henman. To 4 Mar: On Air: Wimbledon and the BBC 1927-2017. Exhibition to celebrate BBC’s radio and TV live broadcasting of the Championships for 90 years, displaying old TV cameras, posters Twinings Museum and programmes. Tours of the grounds include The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has Centre Court. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum an exhibition reflecting the tea company’s adult £13; child £8. Museum & Tour 300-year history. Mon-Fri 9.30amadult £25; child £15. One free child 7.30pm; Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11amwith every full-price adult. www.

6pm. Admission free. www.twinings. wimbledon.com/museum. All The Museum of London co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020England Lawn Tennis Club, Church originally opened in 7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 1912 in Kensington 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields V&A Museum of Childhood Palace, near then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

Charming museum with a national Hyde Park

collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. To 25 Feb: Michael Morpurgo: A Lifetime in Stories. The life and works of one of Britain’s best-loved writers, displaying his manuscripts, photographs and a life-size puppet of Joey from the musical War Horse.

Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam. ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 0208983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Victoria and Albert Museum Admire the V&A’s outstanding collection of fine and applied arts that spans 3,000 years.

From 9 Dec: Winnie-the-Pooh: Exploring a Classic. Telling the story of AA Milne’s honey-loving creation through sketches, letters, photos, cartoons, ceramics and fashion (p. 40). To 18 Feb: Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion. Exhibition about the revered designer Cristóbal Balenciaga and his vision of female beauty and use of textiles. To 25 Feb: Opera: Passion, Power and Politics. Exploring the culture of opera over 400 years. Daily 10am-5.45pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 0207942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays its beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Paintings include Fragonard’s 18th-century masterpiece The Swing, and Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500.

D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body. Including permanent exhibitions Medicine Now and Medicine Man, the personal collection of Sir Henry Wellcome with eye-popping antique items of medical equipment. Regular talks and tours. To 14 Jan: Can Graphic Design Save Your Life? Exploring the relationship between design and the healthcare industry. To 8 Apr: Ayurvedic Man: Encounters with Indian Medicine. Named after an 18th-century painting in the museum’s collection, this fascinating exhibition explores the movement of medical knowledge across the continents, over the centuries. Tue-Wed & FriSat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm.

Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org.

183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7.

Station: Euston.

National Portrait Gallery One of the nation’s most prominent galleries, more than 150 years old, with works depicting famous British people in paintings, drawings and photographs. To 8 Feb: Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize. The finalists of this prestigious annual competition. To 11 Feb: Cézanne’s Portraits. More than 50 works. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular evening events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg. org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Newport Street Gallery Damien Hirst’s huge gallery exhibits work from his extensive art collection. To 21 Jan: Dan Colen – Sweet Liberty. Works by the contemporary American artist, spanning 15 years, including large-scale installations. Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-6pm. Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free. www.newportstreet gallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320.

G8. Station: Vauxhall/Lambeth North.

GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Art Gallery and The Curve. To 28 Jan: Basquiat: Boom for Real. The UK’s first major exhibition of Jean-Michel Basquiat, a self-taught, New York street artist who died in 1988 aged 28. Please check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk.

Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

The Courtauld Gallery Important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House. To 21 Jan: Soutine’s Portraits: Cooks, Waiters and Bellboys. Colourful paintings by the 20th-century artist. Daily 10am6pm. Adult £9.50; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk.

Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.

Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces.

It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). To 2 Apr: Nature Morte. How the 16th-century tradition of still life meets modern art. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700.

D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Exhibitions of contemporary art and installations, plus a café/bar, bookshop and art-house cinema.

To 7 Jan: Seth Price Circa 1981. Film and video works

by American artist Seth Price. Galleries daily 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Adult £1; child free. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works

by Western European masters from the 13th to 19th centuries. Regular guided tours, workshops and talks. To 2 Apr: Reflections: Van Eyck and the Pre-Raphaelites. How the Arnolfini Portrait was so influential in the genre. To 7 May: Drawn in Colour: Degas from the Burrell. Paintings, pastels and drawings by the French Impressionist. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk.

Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885.

E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal approval Monarchs have always commissioned and collected great artworks to adorn their palaces – it’s a mark of prestige, wealth and authority in addition to aesthetic beauty. At The Queen’s Gallery, a new exhibition accentuates just that. Charles II: Art & Power (from 8 Dec; p. 43) is a collection of wonderful works from the royal apartments in the court of Charles II, where his appointment in 1660 to the English throne marked a welcome end to a decade of an austere Republican regime when much of its treasures had been sold. Over the following 25 years, the new king commissioned works including a monumental portrait of himself by John Michael Wright (above), new crown jewels and glittering silver furniture – a real stamp of authority.

ABRAHAM BLOOTELING’S CAROLUS II DEI GRATIA ANGLIA SCOTIA FRANCIA ET HIBERNIA IBERNIA REX © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST

Somerset House

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The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, with several temporary exhibitions. To 11 Feb: Instant Stories – Wim Wenders’ Polaroids. A rare look into the Oscar-nominated filmmaker and his thought processes via his Polaroid photos. Mon-Sat 10am6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 0207087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Queen’s Gallery This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace has temporary exhibitions, often sourced from 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection.

From 8 Dec: Charles II: Art & Power. Exhibition exploring the court of the Restoration monarch and the role of the arts in the re-establishment of the Stuarts (p. 42). Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £11; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building housing Royal Academy Collection works in all media.

To 10 Dec: Jasper Johns: ‘Something Resembling Truth’. Works by the prominent US artist, known for his use of iconography such as flags and targets. To 3 Jan: Dalí / Duchamp. The friendship and working relationship between the surrealist artists. Daily 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for special events. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Saatchi Gallery Contemporary art in a huge renovated Georgian building. To 7 Jan: Art Riot: Post-Soviet Actionism.

Dedicated to Russian protest art over the past 25 years. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk.

Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 0207811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Tate Britain Put the power of Where in the palm of your hand. Our The nation’s leading collection of British art Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access Just Away from 1500 to today, including the Is world’s largest a Touch to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things ®

collection of works by Turner. To 21 Jan: Rachel to do and places to go in destinations all over the world.

Whiteread. Vast sculptural works in materials Download it today for iPhone and Android. including concrete and rubber, by the prominent British artist and the first woman to win thepower Turner of Where® in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler Put the London app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked Prize, in 1993. To 7 May: Impressionists CityinGuide – French Artists in Exile. How the artists who fled the recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all war coped with life and the art scene in London. thefor world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free;over charges special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern World-class collection of international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station, now with a new wing. To 28 Jan: Ilya and Emilia Kabakov: Not Everyone Will Be Taken into the Future.

First UK exhibition for these Russian pioneers of installation art. To 18 Feb: Red Star over Russia: A Revolution in Visual Culture 1905-55. A visual depiction of the period until the death of Stalin, by photographers, artists and designers. To 2 Apr: SUPERFLEX One Two Three! The Turbine Hall is full of swings by the Danish collective that you can play on. To 2 Apr: Modigliani. A retrospective of the 20th-century artist, including the nudes that were banned a century ago. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark. www.wheretraveler.com 43

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Tickets sold out?

Stars and stripes

Check @HamiltonWestEnd on Twitter and Facebook for new ticket releases

Take one theatre producer known for Cats, Les Misérables and The Phantom of the Opera, 11 Tony Awards including Best Musical, and a cast of West End stars, and what do you have? A recipe for success, that’s what.

Even before the Broadway hit Hamilton premieres at the Victoria Palace Theatre (from 6 Dec), it’s already the talk of the town.

The show will reopen the listed theatre following an extensive and delayed renovation and expansion.

Produced in London by Cameron Mackintosh and directed by Thomas Kail, the musical is based on Ron Chernow’s biography of one of the USA’s Founding Fathers, Alexander Hamilton, a poor, orphaned immigrant born in the Caribbean.

Set in the late 1700s, it follows Hamilton’s role in the American War of Independence, and looks at how he catapulted to fame in 1789 when he became the first secretary of the treasury – and George Washington’s right-hand man. Hamilton went on to establish a national bank, and shape the foundations of the country.

The themes in the show are so relevant that the production even incurred the wrath of President Trump when its racially diverse cast made a public statement to Vice President Mike Pence, on stage, expressing their concerns at the Trump administration.

Pence was booed by the audience, and the President took to Twitter to demand an apology for the ‘harassment’ caused by the cast.

It certainly made the show more newsworthy.

British audiences may not identify with the storyline, but when it is told alongside energetic ballet and hip-hop moves and put to a score that blends hip hop, blues, rap, R&B and Broadway tunes, you can see its appeal.

No wonder the Broadway version scooped the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Drama and the 2016 Grammy Award for Best Musical Theatre Album.

If you can’t make it to Broadway – or Chicago or San Francisco – and you’re lucky enough to bag tickets in London, you can see Jamael Westman and Ash Hunter take turns playing the lead in the West End version.

A cast of predominantly British black, Asian and Middle Eastern stars will perform alongside Westman and Hunter, including Rachelle Ann Go (Miss Saigon, Les Misérables) as Hamilton’s wife, Eliza, and Obioma Ugoala (Motown the Musical) as George Washington.

The set and costumes may look like something out of a period drama and, yes, the plot might feel like a lesson in American history, but the contemporary tunes, street talk and hip-hop dance routines bring the show right up to date – and make you want to go back to school.

For full listing, turn to p. 46

HAMILTON IMAGES © JOAN MARCUS

The award-winning hip-hop musical, Hamilton, wowed audiences and critics alike on Broadway. Now you can watch it in London and see why it became one of the most successful shows ever, says Sarah Riches

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP). Please check for Christmas closures.

Everybody’s Talking About Jamie Based on a true story, this is about a 16-year-old with a secret who lives on a council estate in Sheffield (p. 82). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£85. www.apollotheatre london.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

42nd Street Clare Halse (Gypsy) stars as Peggy, a chorus girl with big dreams. When leading lady Dorothy Brock (Sheena Easton) is injured, Peggy has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £15-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk.

Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Hair the Musical

Broadway hit The Very Hungry Caterpillar Show is set to wow audiences at the Ambassadors Theatre (from 13 Dec; p. 53), following a successful UK tour. This stage production is a faithful adaptation of four of Eric Carle’s classic, beautifully illustrated children’s books – The Very Hungry Caterpillar, The Artist who Painted a Blue Horse, Mister Seahorse and The Very Lonely Firefly. Creator Jonathan Rockefeller says: ‘Our production brings these stories to life through the magic of puppetry, movement and stagecraft.

We have a menagerie of larger-than-life puppets, bursting with colour – it’s astonishing to compare the original illustrations to the puppets and see how exact they are.’ Pull every string you’ve got to bag a ticket to this wonderful hour-long performance.

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES A Christmas Carol Matthew Warchus directs Charles Dickens’ classic about a miser in this new adaptation (p. 10). Check for times. Tickets £12-£125. www.oldvictheatre. com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit includes tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me, with lyrics by Tim Rice and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £37.50-£97.50. www.aladdinthemusical.co. uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

An American in Paris A World War II veteran falls for a woman in a bar in 1940s Paris. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm & 27 Dec. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.anamerican inparisthemusical.co.uk. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Annie It’s the 1930s and orphan Annie has a chance to spend Christmas with a millionaire. But her orphanage manager Hannigan (Craig Revel Horwood most nights) has other ideas. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur, Sat & Sun 3pm. Tickets £20-£110. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Beauty and the Feast Go in spooky fancy dress for this show with themed canapés, which is set 100 years after the Beast was born. 7.30pm. Tickets £45-£55. www.thevaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Big Fish To 31 Dec: Emmy, Tony and Golden

Globe winner Kelsey Grammer plays Edward, who tells his son tall tales. The story is adapted from Tim Burton’s film. Check for prices. Tickets £27.50-£35. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. Off map. Station: St James’s Park.

Hamilton From 6 Dec: Award-winning musical, which is sung and rapped, about the life of American Founding Father Alexander Hamilton, with music, lyrics and book by Lin-Manuel Miranda (p. 44).

Please check for times and prices. www.hamilton themusical.co.uk. Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. E7. Station: Victoria.

Kinky Boots Musical about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business after its new owner produces knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £25-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co. uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £39.75-£127.25. www.lesmis.com.

Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.

Disney’s The Lion King

The Book of Mormon A satire from the writers of TV’s South Park, about two hapless missionaries. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £32-£200. www.bookofmormonlondon.com.

Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

The Lion King uses five different languages including Zulu, Xhosa and Swahili

Dick Whittington From 9 Dec: A pantomime starring Julian Clary and Elaine Paige as Queen Rat (p. 12). Check for times. Tickets £49-£195. www.reallyuseful theatres.co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Dreamgirls Glee TV star Amber Riley stars in this show, about a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£175. www. savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

An adaptation of the Disney film, with ingenious costumes and puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £47.70-£167.50. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8.

Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to ABBA, set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£102.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm.

Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com.

Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

THE VERY HUNGRY CATERPILLAR IMAGE COURTESY OF AMBASSADORS THEATRE

Peckish puppets

1967, New York. Claude is a hippy who must decide whether to join his pacifist friends or fight in Vietnam. Check for times and prices. www.the vaults.london. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo.

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ENTERTAINMENT Motown the Musical

Courting trouble A new show based on Agatha Christie’s gripping legal drama, Witness for the Prosecution, is being staged in the former courtroom at County Hall. Directed by Lucy Bailey, the audience acts as the jury in the case of Leonard Vole, who is accused of murdering a rich widow to inherit her money. If found guilty, he will be sentenced to death. The creative team and 15-strong cast sought legal advice and toured the Old Bailey during rehearsals to ensure the show resembles an authentic trial.

Cast members roam County Hall, immersing the audience in a 1950s trial. Actor Philip Franks says: ‘In 1910, Dr Crippen was sentenced to death by hanging for murdering his wife.

The case was hotter than a Hamilton ticket, so the queues for the public galleries at the Old Bailey were vast.’

Musical inspired by Motown Records, which launched Diana Ross, Michael Jackson and Stevie Wonder’s careers. Check for times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre,210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

The Phantom of the Opera A masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Check for times. Tickets £24.80-£97.50. www.the phantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

School of Rock: The Musical An Andrew Lloyd Webber show, based on the film of the same name. Check for times. Tickets £15-£99.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com.

New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Snowman To 31 Dec: A show based on Raymond Briggs’ classic book about a snowman (p. 14). Check for times. Tickets £15-£36. www.atg tickets.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. Off map. Station: Angel.

Stomp Comical rhythmic percussion. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm. Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon.co.uk.

Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

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WITNESS FOR THE PROSECUTION COURTESY OF COUNTY HALL

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ENTERTAINMENT

Watch Hair The Musical at The Vaults

Thriller Live

The Exorcist

The Mousetrap

Songs and dance celebrating Michael Jackson’s career. Please check for times and prices. www. thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Based on the 1971 novel and William Friedkin’s 1973 film (p. 52). Mon-Thur & Sat 8pm; Fri 6pm & 9pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £31.30-£93.80. www.phoenix theatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Agatha Christie’s timeless murder mystery. Check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

16 Dec: Will and Kate want an intimate wedding

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience – but their family have other ideas. Guests enjoy a 2-3, 9-10 & 16 Dec: Seventies-style dining three-course dinner and an improvised and interactive comedy, based on the show. Enjoy! 7.30pm-10pm. Tickets cult TV comedy. Thur-Sat 7pm; Sun £48.50. www.interactivetheatre.com.

6pm; Sat-Sun 1pm. Please check for au. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great prices. www.faultytowers-uk.com.

Queen St, WC2B 5BX. T: 0844-5154 The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba 4145. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Phantom of the Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N Opera’s make-up takes 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8. Station: Wicked two hours to apply and 30 minutes Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, The back story of the witches of Oz to remove 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Station: Holborn.

Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£125. www.

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, Parts I and II of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. story about Harry, now a father-of-three working at F7. Station: Victoria. the Ministry of Magic. Check for returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813.

Station: Charing Cross.

PLAYS

The Comedy about a Bank Robbery

Six incompetent crooks are desperate to get hold of a diamond. Tue, Thur-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £11.25-£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com.

The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

La Boheme From 6 Dec: East London, 2016. This new

musical is a new take on Puccini’s La Bohème.

Check for times and prices. www.atgtickets.com.

Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.theplaythat goeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Venus in Fur To 9 Dec: An actress is determined to be the lead

– despite seeming wrong for the part. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£90. www.trh.co.uk.

Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Witness for the Prosecution To 11 Mar: Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama takes place in a former old courtroom. Tickets from £10. Check for times. www.witnesscountyhall. com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Woman in Black Adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, this spooky story is about a lawyer who visits a remote house after a death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm.

Tickets £21.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack.com.

Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

HAIR THE MUSCAL IMAGE COURTESY OF THE VAULTS

The Wedding Reception

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CHRISTMAS WITH THE RAT PACK PAUL WALDEN & DEREK NICOL FOR FLYING ENTERTAINMENT & TRH PRODUCTIONS PRESENT

13 DEC – 6 JAN

020 7930 8800 www.trh.co.uk

THE BOYS ARE BACK IN TOWN ®

THE LADY IS A TRAMP MR BOJANGLES THAT’S AMORE I’VE GOT YOU UNDER MY SKIN WHAT KIND OF FOOL AM I VOLARE•MY WAY

BABY ITS COLD OUTSIDE MERRY LITTLE CHRISTMAS WHITE CHRISTMAS WINTER WONDERLAND JINGLE BELLS LET IT SNOW, LET IT SNOW, LET IT SNOW

The Rat Pack Live From Las Vegas returns 9 Jan- 3 Feb

Paul Walden & Derek Nicol for Flying Music in association with Adrian Grant for Key Concerts present

MICHAEL

JACKSON 5

EXTRA CHRISTMAS SHOWS BOX OFFICE 0330 333 4812

LYRIC THEATRE

SHAFTESBURY AVE LONDON W1

www.thrillerlive.com

Photo of previous cast member

FEATURING THE SONGS OF AND THE

www.flyingmusicBOXOFFICE.com 0844 249 1000 Tickets available from www.myticket.co.uk • 0844 871 8803 Calls to 0844 numbers will cost 7 pence per minute plus your telephone company’s access charge. Please consult your telephone provider for further details.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Fright nights

The Woman in White

One of the most frightening stories of all time is premiering at the Phoenix Theatre (to 10 Mar; p. 50). Directed by Sean Mathias, The Exorcist is based on William Peter Blatty’s novel and William Friedkin’s 1973 film. It follows Regan (Clare Louise Connolly), who is suffering from symptoms that baffle medics, leading her mother Chris (Jenny Seagrove) to ask Father Damien (Adam Garcia) for help.

Expect to be terrified to the point of passing out – just like cinema audiences did when they watched the graphic horror back in the 1970s.

Based on Wilkie Collins’ thriller, this Andrew Lloyd Webber story follows Walter after he meets a woman with a secret. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £19.50-£49.50. www.charingcrosstheatre.co.uk. Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

DANCE Royal Opera House From 5 Dec: The Nutcracker. A present leads a girl on a Christmas adventure in this ballet, which is danced to Tchaikovsky’s score. Check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sadler’s Wells

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Greenwich Wintertime Festival 1-31 Dec: A new ice rink, market

and food stalls. Tickets £8-£15. www.greenwichwintertime.com.

Old Royal Naval College, Park Row, SE10 9LS. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club opened in 1959 and has hosted icons from Ella Fitzgerald to Curtis Mayfield

Rome Season Four Shakespeare plays – Coriolanus, plus this month’s Julius Caesar, Antony & Cleopatra and Titus Andronicus. Check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. D10. Station: Barbican.

Winterville on Clapham Common To 24 Dec: Enjoy an ice rink, roller disco, indoor crazy golf and cinema. You can also enjoy comedy and cabaret in a tent, ride a big wheel and shop at a Christmas market. www.winterville. co.uk. Clapham Common, SW4. Off map. Station: Clapham Common/Clapham South.

From 9 Dec: Matthew Bourne’s Cinderella (p. 14) is set during World War II. Check for times. Tickets £12-£69. www.sadlerswells.com.

Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

OPERA

London Coliseum Home to the English National Opera.

To 2 Dec: Aida. A timeless story of duty, love and betrayal amid the clash of war.

Sharing the title role are two sopranos – Latonia Moore and Morenike Fadayomi. Check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House The Royal Ballet Company’s home base.

To 16 Dec: Semiramide. Rossini’s tragedy. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

WEST END TICKETS Concierges

Official London Theatre

If you are staying at a hotel, your concierge is a key to the city.

Many of them are members of The Society of the Golden Keys, and have connections with box-office managers.

If you require captioned, signed, relaxed or audiodescribed performances, visit Official London Theatre’s Access page for comprehensive listings.

STAR members

VisitBritain shop

The majority of theatre tickets are bought with no problems at all. Unfortunately things can go wrong. Follow STAR’s (Society of Ticket Agents & Retailers) advice when buying tickets: identify the face value and booking fees and check the terms and conditions, including transferability, cancellation and viewing restrictions. STAR represents most ticket agents and box offices in the UK.

For more than 50 years, the official shop of the British Tourist Authority has been ensuring tourists have great holidays. Save money when you book your tickets online, and collect them from Leicester Square’s London Ticket Information Booth.

Standby and returns If the show you really want to see has sold out, don’t panic.

Go directly to the theatre’s box

office as theatres can have tickets returned, and these are released each morning.

Be warned: arrive early and be prepared to queue!

Matinee shows

TKTS

Matinee performances take place in the afternoon, normally on a Wednesday or Saturday. These shows are often cheaper than evening performances.

The TKTS booth has been in Leicester Square since 1980.

Visit for on-the-day deals, but tickets cannot be guaranteed as popular shows often sell out in advance.

THE EXORCIST COURTESY OF PHOENIX THEATRE; TICKET, BELL AND SIGN © ISTOCK

Beware of ticket touts. Instead, follow our advice to help you get the best seats in the house

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CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Royal Albert Hall Music hall, home to the BBC Proms. 6 Dec: John Rutter’s Christmas Celebration, presented by Rutter and performed by the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. Includes carols. 2.15pm. Check for prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4.

South Kensington.

St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www. sjp.org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Wigmore Hall Concert hall with regular recitals. 5 Dec: Christian Tetzlaff plays Brahms on the violin while Lars Vogt plays piano. 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£40. www. wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The Jazz Café 8 Dec: A house band and DJs play Motown classics, from Stevie Wonder to Diana Ross and The Supremes. Please check for times. Tickets £5. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 1-2 Dec: Kasabian. 3-6 Dec: Jamiroquai. 4-5 Dec: Gorillaz. 11 Dec: Mariah Carey (p. 8). 12-13 Dec: Queen and Adam Lambert. 14 Dec: Michael Ball & Alfie Boe. 15-16 Dec: Pete Tong presents Ibiza

Classics. Please check for times and prices. www. theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club 8-10 Dec: Curtis Stigers. The multi-platinum-selling singer and saxophonist plays classics and songs from his album Hooray for Love. Check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

IN THE HEART OF LEICESTER SQUARE

Royal Albert Hall 9 Dec: Disney in Concert: Beauty and the Beast. Watch the film with am orchestra. 10 Dec: Guy Barker’s Big Band Christmas. 14 Dec: The BT Christmas Concert.

18 Dec:: Christmas with Katherine Jenkins (p. 14).

Check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall. com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES Laika To 31 Dec: This play, suitable for over fives, is about a shy toy rabbit who longs to become real. Check for times. Tickets £10-£24. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, Southwark, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Very Hungry Caterpillar From 13 Dec: An adaptation of four of Eric Carle’s illustrated books including The Very Hungry Caterpillar, with 75 puppets (p. 46). Check for times.

Tickets £15-£27.50. www.hungrycaterpillarshow. com. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Covent Garden.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

The greatest grottos

Top to bottom: Christmess in Nicky’s Imaginarium; Westfield London; Christmess; two images of Christmas in Leicester Square

A visit to Santa’s grotto has been an essential stop for British Christmas shoppers for generations, dating back to 1879, when the world’s first Christmas grotto opened at the Bon Marche store in Liverpool. Grottos are still going strong, but these days they’re just one part of a larger festive shopping experience, with brands catering for kids and grown-ups too. You’ll find that most offer entertainment, food and drink along with the traditional seasonal offerings.

Christmas in Leicester Square is a case in point. Children can hear a festive story from Santa in the North Pole-themed grotto, tell him their Christmas wishes, have a photo taken and receive a present, but they can also see theatre and comedy shows and take part in a Christmas baby disco. Adults have got their own programme of entertainment, including cabaret, comedy and burlesque. There’s also a European-style Christmas market for all your gift-buying needs (to 6 Jan; www.christmas inleicestersquare.com).

It’s not a grotto experience per se, but Selfridge’s Breakfast with Santa (2-17 Dec; p. 55) events go one better, giving the whole family the chance to sit down with the man himself and Mrs Claus and tuck into breakfast.

During the meal, Santa shares stories about life in Lapland and then leads a singalong, before posing for photos and giving out gifts.

Westfield London’s Snowflake Grotto (to 24 Dec; p. 56) is running throughout the day, meaning you can book a slot in advance to break up gift-buying. Professor Snowflake welcomes children to the Snow Factory, where they can create personalised snowflakes and play all manner of hands-on games.

Not all grottos are for children. The Whiskey Grotto at Nicky’s Imaginarium (2, 9, 16 & 22 Dec) at Hunter Penrose in Borough Market is for over-18s only, and offers Christmas with a twist. In a parallel universe, Christmas has been banned and naughty St Nicky is holed up with Mama Claus and a band of rebel elves.

Revellers can conspire with St Nicky as he plans his revolutionary ‘Christmess’, as well as pick up gifts at a makers’ market, and indulge in a soul food Christmas feast (www.christmess.co).

‘Tis the season to be jolly indeed.

CHRISTMESS IMAGES COURTESY OF NICKY’S IMAGINARIUM; WESTFIELD LONDON © HANSON IMAGES; CHRISTMAS IN LEICESTER SQUARE © DAVID JENSEN

Jo Caird finds there is a Christmas grotto for everyone, from drinks for adults to discos for babies

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Please check for Christmas closures.

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery as well as auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Canary Wharf A first-class shopping destination located in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Map inset. Station: Canary Wharf.

Carnaby Street Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Gabriel’s Wharf A small but charming wharf that’s home to some interesting craftspeople, from ceramicists to jewellers. You’ll also find restaurants including the nearby OXO Tower. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

Jermyn Street & St James’s Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

King’s Road Once famous for upmarket and alternative fashion, this famous street still attracts a stylish crowd.

Department store Peter Jones is good for homeware and Duke of York Square has stylish shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7.

Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch/ Tottenham Court Road.

Regent Street

BICESTER VILLAGE IMAGE COURTESY OF BICESTER VILLAGE

Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Apple, Liberty, Swarovski, the first British Ferrari shop and Burberry. D6/D7/E7.

Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.

Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies and Kilgour. E7. Station: Green Park.

Seven Dials

Countryside encounters Oxfordshire shopping destination Bicester Village (p. 56) is extending its offer this Christmas with The British Collective, a pop-up boutique created by British interior designer and illustrator Luke Edward Hall. Inspired by an eccentric English country house, the pop-up is designed to give Christmas shoppers the impression that they are browsing for luxury objects in an old English drawing room, with scented candles, homewares and cashmere hats and gloves. The boutique contrasts beautifully with the slick appearance of many of Bicester’s 130 luxury brands, and also features products from Hall’s own product range, including a limited-edition sweater made in collaboration with the British knitwear designer John Smedley.

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason British institution. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnumandmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys One of the world’s biggest toy shops.

Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls, fashion plus bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

House of Fraser

Marks & Spencer Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections (multiple locations around London). Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com. 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Liberty The epitome of heritage combined with cuttingedge design and the brand’s famous prints.

Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty. co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 0207734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Selfridges Browse some of the finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limited-edition products (p. 54). Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

LUXURY ARCADES Burlington Arcade

Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods.

Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

This arcade runs from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly. Each day it opens with a gate ceremony.

It is patrolled by Beadles wearing traditional uniforms and top hats. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Christopher’s Place

John Lewis

Leadenhall Market

Home to an exciting mix of shops selling accessories, shoes, designer brands and more, plus London’s largest concentration of pavement dining. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Fashion, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

A grand Victorian covered market in the heart of the city, bustling with boutiques. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Leadenhall Market, Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. T: 020-7621 0709. D11. Station: Monument.

In the heart of quirky Covent Garden are seven streets full of independent boutiques, heritage brands and vintage shops. www.sevendials.co.uk.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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SHOPPING

KIDS’ STORES The Disney Store Disney merchandise and interactive entertainment.

Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm (branches also in WC2 and W12). www.disneystore.co.uk.

350-352 Oxford St, W1C 1JH. T: 020-7491 9136. D6.

Station: Bond Street.

LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

M&M’s World Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Bags for life

The Nickelodeon Store

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Find discount designer clothes at this haven in Oxfordshire (p. 55). Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicester village.com. Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

Westfield London This mall has more than 300 shops, from highstreet names to high-end fashion labels (p. 54). www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City Massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema and casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity.

2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300.

Map inset. Station: Stratford.

FASHION Alexander McQueen

Hackett Polos, sporting jackets and cords, plus suits and plenty of accessories (multiple locations around London). www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

River Island Stylish, affordable fashion for men, women and children. www.riverisland.com. 473 Oxford St, W1C 3AU. T: 0344-334 0506. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Products inspired by the popular television channel’s shows. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

LEATHER & LUGGAGE Anya Hindmarch Luxurious leather goods ranging from wallets to evening bags (multiple locations). www.anya hindmarch.com. 118 New Bond St, W1S 1EW. T: 020-7493 1628. E7. Station: Bond Street.

Moynat The UK flagship of the Parisian luxury luggage and handbag brand. www.moynat.com.

112 Mount St, W1K 2TU. T: 020-7495 3885.

E6. Station: Bond Street/Green Park.

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

Royal souvenirs. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Harry Winston

Cath Kidston

The king of diamond jewellery in London for more than 80 years. 171 New Bond St, W1S 4RD. T: 020-7907 8800. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. Great for men and women’s jewellery, plus an engraving service. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora Find jewellery and gifts, including Pandora’s much-loved charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

A must for men’s and women’s fashions, this flagship boutique has the label’s signature skull scarves, as well as other accessories. www.alexandermcqueen. co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088.

E7. Station: Green Park.

Tiffany & Co

Burberry

Wempe

Find the full Burberry London and runway collections here, including the classic trenches and raincoats (multiple locations around London). www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB. T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Grand, spacious setting for the luxury German family business, established in 1878. Large selection of jewellery and fine watches. www.wempe.com.

43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299.

E6. Station: Bond Street.

This world-renowned jeweller displays exquisite designer gems (multiple locations around London). www.tiffany.com. The Courtyard, Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ. T: 020-7409 2790. D10. Station: Bank.

Home to stylish accessories with London prints. www.cathkidston.com. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

John Bell & Croyden Emergency prescriptions and vaccinations, as well as specialist doctors. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk.

Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London Glassblowing Pick up a dazzling souvenir and then try it yourself with a glassblowing session. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Twinings Trading since 1706, you will find a variety of teas and infusions. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

SHOP COURTESY OF KNOMO

British bag company Knomo was founded in 2004 and now boasts offices around the world, as well as a new London flagship store in Seven Dials. Knomo offers backpacks, clutches, totes, briefcases and more, each featuring a beautifully designed system of pockets and pouches to ensure that you’ll never lose anything in a bag again. The Burlington Wheeled Business Bag, which is airline cabin-friendly, is made of leather and fits a 15in laptop. The Elektronista bags come complete with batteries and micro USB charging cables, so your phone or tablet will never run out of juice while you’re out.

47-49 Neal St, WC2H 9PZ. T: 020-3948 3340. www.knomobags.com. D8.

Station: Covent Garden

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SHOPPING ADVER TORIAL

FALL IN LOVE , WITH LONDON S FINEST DIAMONDS Visit Hatton Garden and fall in love with London’s finest collection of jewellery and diamonds Nestled in the heart of Holborn and just a short taxi ride from London’s West End, you’ll find the historical area of Hatton Garden. Here you’ll discover one of London’s hidden gems; a place steeped in history and romance since Queen Elizabeth I gifted a house and garden in the grounds of Ely Palace to a handsome courtier in 1576.

By 1870, Hatton Garden had established an international reputation as London’s jewellery quarter and the UK’s centre for diamonds. As the trend for more extravagant and expensive items of jewellery grew, the demand for hand-made fine jewellery and exquisite diamonds increased.

The specialist jewellers in Hatton Garden became famous for trading diamonds, often shipping rare stones around the world as jewellery became a symbol of not only wealth

and stature, but of love and affection.

Today, the romance lives on and the Hatton Garden Jewellery Group is a collection of eight stores in Hatton Garden near Farringdon. Since the group’s flagship store Beverley Hills Jewellers opened in 1987, the family-owned brand has carved out a reputation for leading the local market in truly British jewellery design including bespoke diamond pieces, coloured gemstones and remodelling of existing jewellery.

So if you’re looking to purchase a token of your love and affection for someone special in your life then look to one of Hatton Garden Jewellery Group’s stores to find your desired piece!

For more information, please ask your Concierge for directions and visit any of our stores or call T: 020-7405 4847 and ask to speak to the group’s General Manager, Carolyn Jackson.

VISITORS OFFERED 30% DISCOUNT OFF RRP (excluding pre-owned and sale goods)

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SHOPPING

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UGG Australia diamonds, often shipping rare gems RE Prada Hollister R E Rolex ET Coach ET Penhaligon’s GAP Leviev Uniqlo around the world. The Hatton Garden Omega Saint Laurent WIGMORE STR Wolford Hunter Daks Jewellery Group isE Ea Tcollection of eight Gucci La Perla Barbour stores in the area. The flagship store, Whittard of Chelsea Marina Rinaldi The Highlands Dolce & Gabbana PICCADILLY Vertu Beverley Hills Jewellers, offers bespoke Kiehl’s Alexander McQueen CIRCUS GREEN PARK Barbour Cartier Tod’s diamond pieces, coloured gemstones (100yards) Dover St International Y L L I De Beers D A Mappin & Webb C Market PIC H E N of Fortnum R I Eexisting and remodelling T T A P L A C jewellery.

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18-22 Haymarket, SW1Y 4DG. T: 020-7518 0680. www.doverstreetmarket.com

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Burberry is now one of Britain’s leading brands and is famous for its iconic trench coats and checked prints. The store also has stylish accessories, from bags to wallets.

Visit the Knightsbridge store for a look at its latest autumn/ winter collection.

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ELL CROMW Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.harrods.com

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SHOPPING

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TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping.

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GREAT OFFERS IN STORE THIS CHRISTMAS!

Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise.

Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

Hamleys Toy Shop, 188-196 Regent Street, London W1B 5BT hamleys.com/explore

#hamleys

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Festive feasts Turkey, Brussels sprouts and Christmas pudding, or something completely different? Emma Levine suggests some great places for a seasonal meal It might be a day famed for its traditional roast turkey, cranberry sauce and, some would say, dreaded Brussels sprouts, but the beauty of being in London over the Christmas period is having the chance to expand your dining horizons. Whether you’re having a festive holiday with the family or simply enjoying a sparkling winter month in London, our restaurants won’t disappoint.

The well-established Thai restaurant Mango Tree, near Buckingham Palace in Belgravia (p. 70), has concocted a neat twist on its traditional South East Asian dishes, to offer something rather special during December.

Feast like Thai royalty in its elegant, contemporary setting, and choose special dishes bursting with fresh spices: opt for the sharing platter with dishes such as por pia ka prao kai (minced chicken with chilli and Thai basil spring roll) and Panang pla salmon (creamy red curry with salmon fillet). To finish, opt for mixed berry panna cotta.

It’s a fusion of France and Finland at Aster, headed up by Helena Puolakka, who draws on her Nordic heritage to produce something

memorable. Christmas is a special time in this region of the world – Finland is the (alleged) home of Father Christmas, after all – with 24 December the actual focus of festivities.

At this new addition to Nova, the slick space in Victoria, its special December menu includes starters of herring caviar and potato blini (pancakes) with sour cream, followed by venison Wellington with baked beetroots.

Finish your feast with a distinctive Nordic coffee, with tangy clementine meringue and kefir mousse (www.aster-restaurant.com).

There’s a huge dose of Mexican magic at Santo Remedio in London Bridge, which greets December with unique celebrations.

Christmas is a huge deal in Mexico, so get ready for a menu filled with special regional food, from the coastal cuisine of Baja California to the nation’s culinary heartland, Oaxaca. Opt for a sharing menu that includes octopus tostada, pork carnitas tacos and turkey mole rosa with grilled cactus. And why not toast the festive occasion with a shot of mescal?

Well, you wanted something different, didn’t you? (www.santoremedio.co.uk)

Christmas dinners THE MANDEVILLE The Mandeville sets the bar high. You can start with seared scallops or venison carpaccio, before tucking into roast Norfolk Black turkey, or five spice-glazed duck breast. End with traditional Christmas pudding with brandy custard and plum jam, in a dining room that’s as pretty as a picture (below). www.mandeville.co.uk

SAVOY GRILL For a real treat, the opulent Savoy Grill has a choice of private dining rooms, as well as the Kitchen Table overlooking the action (24-26 Dec). Savour Gordon Ramsay’s six-courses of gastronomic delights such as roast Yorkshire turkey with chipolatas. www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com DUCK & WAFFLE If you want a turkey-free feast on the 25th, ascend to the 40th floor of Heron Tower.

While you gaze out of the floor-to-ceiling windows, enjoy caramelised celeriac and truffle soup, and braised short rib with turnip. www.duckandwaffle.com

ASTER © THOMAS ALEXANDER PHOTOGRAPHY; SANTO REMEDIO © NICK HOPPER; MANGO TREE COURTESY OF MANGO TREE; THE MANDEVILLE COURTESY OF THE MANDEVILLE

Clockwise from this image: Aster; Santo Remedio; Mango Tree

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 80-81. Check for Christmas closures

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Avenue Contemporary wining and dining, Manhattan-style. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat & Sun brunch; Sat D. www.avenue-restaurant.co.uk. 7-9 St James’s St, SW1A 1EE. T: 020-7321 2111. E7. Station: Green Park.

Chiltern Firehouse This hip hotel restaurant in an old fire station serves US-style dishes with a creative twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chilternfirehouse.com.

1 Chiltern St, W1U 7PA. T: 020-7073 7676. D6.

Station: Baker Street.

The Colony Grill Room The wood-panelled dining room evokes 1920s America, with US grill fare and hearty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.colonygrillroom.com.

The Beaumont, 8 Balderton St, W1K 6TN. T: 020-7499 9499. D6. Station: Bond Street .

Gaucho Succulent Argentine steaks, plus a wine bar, masterclasses and entertainment. ££££. Daily L & D. www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR (and branches). T: 020-7734 4040. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with quality US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in house, plus dishes including whole roasted poussin. £££.

Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodmanrestaurants.com.

26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6.

Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint is more than 40 years old, and has lots of rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere.

Enjoy its jumbo wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Heliot Steak House Hippodrome Casino’s restaurant, over the main gaming floor, serves British classics and USDA beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodrome casino.com. 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

With its crisp white tablecloths, curtains and knowledgeable staff, Margot in Covent Garden is ideal for a private business lunch or an intimate pre-theatre date. Maurizio Morelli, its executive chef, hails from Rome, so expect classic Italian dishes. Start with a plate of Italian cheese, cured meat or creamy burrata, then delve into gnocchi, risotto or fish – try the grilled tuna with sautéed escarole and Pecorino pesto. Save space for some tiramisu or thick hot chocolate, or try one or two of its 350 wines. If you’re wondering why a dachshund pops up on everything from the breadstick holders to the business cards, it’s inspired by the nickname the owner’s father gave to his mother.

45 Great Queen St, WC2B 5AA. T: 020-3409 4777. www.margotrestaurant.com.

D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn

Planet Hollywood

Caxton Grill

This huge London branch has burgers, pizzas and cocktails, plus film memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywoodlondon.com.

57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Superb steaks cooked on the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes, in a stylish venue. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.

Rainforest Cafe

Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Busy diner in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 0207434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Wolseley, located next to The Ritz hotel on Piccadilly, was once a car showroom

JW Steakhouse

IMAGE COURTESY OF MARGOT

The heart of Rome

STK London

Dine on British and American prime steaks, with DJs playing nightly. ££££. Daily D. www.stkhouse.com.

ME London Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8.

Station: Covent Garden.

Cheneston’s

City Social Jason Atherton’s award-winning restaurant and bar boasts a creative menu and city views. £££.

Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D. www.citysociallondon.com.

Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

The Clove Club

Steakhouse offering dry-aged prime beef with a variety of sides and toppings. £££.

Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk.

Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

BRITISH (MODERN)

This Michelin-starred restaurant serves ambitious dishes such as Yorkshire suckling pig with Indian spices. £££. Tue-Sat L; Mon-Sat D. www.theclove club.com. Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old St, EC1V 9LT. T: 020-7729 6496. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

Lima

Aqua Shard

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

Michelin-starred contemporary Peruvian cuisine. £££. Tue-Sun L; daily D. www.limalondon.com.

31 Rathbone Place, W1T 1JH. T: 020-3002 2640.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Oblix Sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill with stunning views from the 32nd floor of The Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com.

31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

Contemporary cuisine created from local produce matches the fantastic views at this slick restaurant on The Shard’s 32nd floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Butlers Restaurant Top English cuisine in an elegant restaurant, famed for its roasts served from a carving trolley. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

The first London restaurant from the famous superchef, with a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinnerbyheston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Fera at Claridge’s Enjoy creative British dishes made from local and organic ingredients, served in a beautiful Art Deco restaurant. Try raw Dexter beef with www.wheretraveler.com 63

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DINING smoked cauliflower, sweet cicely and shiso, or roasted monkfish with Fowey mussels, courgette and lemon balm. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the huge museum’s iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

Holborn Dining Room This smart brasserie adjoining the stylish Rosewood hotel serves classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

Indigo British gluten and dairy-free dishes. ££-£££.

Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych hotel, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Magpie Intricate dishes arrive at your table on trolleys, dim-sum style. £££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.magpie-london.com. 10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX. T: 020-7287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rex Whistler Restaurant

The English Grill

Dine on dishes such as seafood bisque, Sunday roast or roast partridge. The dining room features a whimsical century-old mural. There is an excellent wine list. On Saturdays, you can listen to live jazz. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high ceilings, serving daily roasts. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace hotel, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

St Pancras Grand This ornate dining room in the Eurostar terminal serves all-day British brasserie-style dishes. ££-£££.

Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 0207870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

This latest outlet of the British steak specialist O is in a former hops warehouse in Borough Market.

It serves excellent grass-fed beef and sustainable seafood. ££££. Daily L & D. www.thehawksmoor.com.

16 Winchester Walk, SE1 9AQ. T: 020-7234 9940.

E10. Station: London Bridge.

Tom’s Kitchen

Mews of Mayfair

Delightful all-day brasserie from award-winning chef Tom Aikens, serving modern comfort food. ££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.tomskitchen.co.uk.

27 Cale St, SW3 3QP (and branches). T: 020-7349 0202. Off map. Station: South Kensington.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Café in the Crypt This vaulted café beneath the church features historic tombstones. It serves homely English dishes, such as fish and chips, and pies. £.

Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org.

St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Hawksmoor Borough

An 18th-century mews house with a brasserie, lounge and cocktail bar, plus a cobbled courtyard. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com.

10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy classic British dishes, including beef Wellington and steamed lobster, in a pretty dining room, with top-notch service. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritz london.com. The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Serpentine Bar & Kitchen Dine beside the Serpentine lake. £. Daily B & L. www.benugo.com/restaurants/serpentine-barkitchen. Serpentine Rd, Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 020-7706 8114. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Modern restaurant with roast beef, steaks and terrine boards. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteak house.co.uk. 311-313 Fulham Rd, SW10 9QH (and branch). T: 020-7352 0088. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road.

CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including dim sum. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££.

Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk.

87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888.

F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hakkasan

When a restaurant has a huge painting of corgis in its semi-private dining room because it’s a favourite venue of the Queen, you know it’s something special. The Game Bird, the recently refurbished dining room at The Stafford hotel, tucked away in historic St James’s, is renowned for its game in season. This month it’s all about mallard with roast pumpkin and roast grouse with braised onion purée. Not that you need to be a meat fan to enjoy James Durrant’s menu: its standout starter is the trolley of cured and smoked fish, carved at your table and served with condiments including capers and pickles. And if it’s good enough for the Queen, it’s good enough for us.

16-18 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NJ. T: 020-7493 0111. www.thestaffordlondon.com.

E7. Station: Green Park

Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Nanyang chilli lobster.

Highly recommended. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kai mayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Mei Ume Chinese and Japanese cuisine, such as sushi, dim sum and Peking duck, in a plush Oriental room. ££££. Daily L & D. www.fourseasons.com.

Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. T: 020-3297 3799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

THE GAME BIRD COURTESY OF THE STAFFORD

Royal feast

Michelin-starred restaurant serving fusion and traditional dishes. £££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting.

Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music.

73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING Min Jiang Take in the glorious park views while dining on Sichuan cuisine and dim sum. ££££.

Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 0207361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

Royal China Club This huge Cantonese restaurant is popular for its dim sum, served at lunchtime, plus crispy duck. ££. Daily L & D. www.royalchinagroup.co.uk.

24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches).

T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street Enjoy hearty, modern cooking in this brasserie, a former bank, with a huge glass dome. Set menus are ideal for a business lunch. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Bibendum Newly refurbished and now with Claude Bosi at the helm, this long-established restaurant has fine dining upstairs and an oyster bar on the ground floor. £££. Wed-Sat D; oyster bar daily L, Mon-Sat D. www.bibendum.co.uk. 81 Fulham Rd, SW3 6RD. T: 020-7581 5817. G5. Station: South Kensington.

The Delaunay This Theatreland venue’s interior and menu are inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés.

Specialities include kedgeree, schnitzels and Frankfurter sausages. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant on the 28th floor, with great views over the city. £££. MonFri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinatwindows.com.

Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 0207208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Ivy This fashionable venue is perfect for a late-night dinner. £££-££££. Daily L & D. www.the-ivy.co.uk.

1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ (and branches). T: 0207836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

OXO Tower Elegant restaurant on the Thames with stunning views. £££. Daily L & D. www.oxotower.co.uk.

OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Skylon Stylish dining with river views, serving dishes such as spiced duck breast. Its pre-theatre menu is handy. ££££. Daily L & D. www.skylon-restaurant.co.uk.

Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 7800. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Ting This superb restaurant in The Shard’s Shangri-La hotel serves European dishes with an Asian twist. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london.

31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108.

F10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD Fancy Crab Crab connoisseurs are in the right place, and once you’ve sampled this new restaurant’s menu you’ll be dreaming of claws. Sample dishes including crab bisque, crab fettucine – and crab cheesecake! £££. Daily L & D. www.fancycrab.co.uk.

92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. T: 020-3096 9484.

D6. Station: Bond Street.

J Sheekey Chic and popular seafood spot with an oyster and Champagne bar, plus seasonal game – great for people-watching. ££££. Daily L & D. www.jsheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London Shell Co Dine on a canal boat on a five-course menu, with delicacies such as cured Dorset char. Diners share tables. Dinner includes a cruise. £££. Wed-Fri L & D. www.londonshellco.com. Sheldon Square, W2 6EP. T: 07818-666 005. Off map. Station: Paddington.

Poppie’s Traditional fish and chip shop with vintage décor. £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk.

55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845.

D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sea Shell Enjoy hearty fish and chips, or pan-seared king scallops. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.seashell restaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.

FRENCH

Bistrot de Luxe This classic Parisian-style restaurant from the Galvin brothers serves superb, classic dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com.

66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6.

Station: Baker Street.

Blanchette

A great British institution If you thought that the phrase ‘OMG’ belonged to the millennial Twitter generation, then think again. It was actually uttered by Sir Winston Churchill in 1917 when he received a letter from Lord Fisher while dining in Simpson’s-in-the-Strand – one of London’s oldest restaurants. Just reopened after a major refurbishment, the first one since 1903, it retains its oak-panelled walls, high ceilings and ornate chandeliers, with a bust of Churchill gracing the area near the grand piano. And its house cocktail is still the OMG – with brandy, sparkling wine and cherry. The menu favours British dishes such as pan-fried sea trout with samphire, and Cornish lamb rump with roasted cauliflower.

100 Strand, WC2R 0EW. T: 020-7420 2111. www.simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk.

E8. Station: Charing Cross/Embankment/Temple

Lively, rustic bistro serving simple and inventive French food. Excellent charcuterie plates, and confit duck leg. ££. Daily L & D. www.blanchettesoho.co.uk. 9 D’Arblay St, W1F 8DR. T: 020-7439 8100. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Brasserie Joël This smart brasserie serves French classics. £££.

Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie serving excellent value prix-fixe menus. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

SIMPSON’S-IN-THE-STRAND © WWW.SIMPSONSINTHESTRAND.CO.UK/WWW.JAMESBEDFORD.COM

Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Innovative food from this world-famous Michelinstarred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com.

The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 0207629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

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Céleste Michelin-starred cuisine in a smart dining room.

Try the Atlantic sea bass topped with seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com.

The Lanesborough hotel, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Clos Maggiore

A REAL TASTE OF INDIA

Exquisite dining room with a cherry blossom-adorned conservatory. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Club Gascon Imaginative Michelin-starred cuisine from southwest France, plus an award-winning wine list. £££-££££. Tue-Fri L; Tue-Sat D. www.clubgascon. com. 57 West Smithfield, EC1A 9DS. T: 020-7600 6144. D9. Station: Farringdon.

L’Escargot London’s oldest French restaurant, established in 1927, has classics such as steak tartare and Grand Marnier souffle. ££. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L. www.lescargot.co.uk. 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF. T: 020-7439 7474. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Sketch Multiple restaurants under one roof, including a stylish brasserie with artwork by David Shrigley, serving French-European cuisine. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

GASTROPUBS The Grazing Goat Try seasonal dishes such as lamb rump with tomato fregola. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.the grazinggoat.co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

The Thomas Cubitt Classic dining room above a traditional bar, with top-quality British produce. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

The Wigmore Enjoy unusual dishes and bar snacks from a menu created by Michel Roux Jr, in a refurbished bar with high ceilings and original Art Deco features. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.the-wigmore. co.uk. 15 Langham Place, off Regent St, W1B 3DE. T: 020-7965 0198. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

INDIAN Amaya This Michelin-starred venue serves dishes that are full of exotic twists, cooked in its open grill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166.

F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Baluchi at the Lalit London Majestic Indian restaurant in this five-star hotel in a Grade II-listed Victorian building. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thelalit.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 020-3765 0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Benares Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates modern Indian cuisine in this refined restaurant – try the soft shell crab. £££. Mon-Sat L & D, Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

MASALAZONE.COM

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DINING Chutney Mary

BRIGHT COURTYARD CLUB restaurant · lounge · events Bright Courtyard Club is a contemporary Chinese restaurant situated in the landmark building, 55 Baker Street.

Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant restaurant, which includes the Pukka Bar. £££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutney mary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord Iconic Indian restaurant, more than 50 years old, serving North Indian dishes including sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Gymkhana Inspired by colonial Indian gymkhana clubs, this Michelin-starred restaurant has sophisticated dishes such as pork cheek vindaloo and guinea fowl pepper fry. £££. Daily L & D. www.gymkhana london.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 0203011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.

Sophisticated, fashionable yet discreet, we are definitely the ideal venue for your important lunch meeting, tranquil afternoon tea or full-filled dinner party.

BCY offer our guests an all-day grazing experience, specializing in authentic dim sum, modern Cantonese and traditional Shanghai cuisine with a twist.

The Three private suites can accommodate 8 to 20 guests. Our glass-roofed courtyard lounge can accommodate 200 seated or 250 standing.

It’s time to plan your Christmas party either for your family or company. Set menus SAVINI_DAVID_2.pdf 1 inquiry.

13/11/2017 16:53 are available for Our experienced event organising team will give the highest levels of dedication and attention to detail.

43-45 Baker Street London W1U 8EW 1 13/11/2017 15:34 t: 020 7486 6998 www.brightcourtyard.co.uk

SAVINI_DAVID_2.pdf

Khan’s of Kensington This relaxed restaurant serves a selection of dishes including Malabar fish curry and Kashmiri lamb korma. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansofkensington. co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114.

G4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes Dine in a former Edwardian ballroom on dishes with French-Creole influences. £££. Daily L & D. www.laportedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Little India This cosy, informal restaurant near the Royal Albert Hall specialises in traditional Bengali cuisine, including prawn curry. ££. Daily L & D. www.little indialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Masala Zone In this chain of newly-refurbished restaurants, enjoy Indian street food, plus the flavour-packed grand thali. ££. Daily L & D. www.masalazone.com.

9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches).

T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

For the perfect way to step into the festive season, we invite you to enjoy a fine dining experience with SAVINI AT CRITERION Savini at Criterion is not just a restaurant but a representation of 150 years of Italian and English history, with Milan’s most celebrated hospitality name showcasing the finest all-day dining in one of the world’s most spectacular and historic restaurants

Open on Christmas Day 224 Piccadilly, W1J 9HP, London Tel. +44 (0) 207 930 1459 reservation@saviniatcriterion.co.uk W W W.SAV INIATCRI TERI O N.CO .UK

Memories of India Enjoy tandoori grills and spicy seafood from all over India, with specialities including lamb boti kebab. It’s close to the museums and the Royal Albert Hall. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesof india.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 0207589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Mint Leaf Contemporary dishes in a stylish restaurant; try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mintleaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tamarind In this smart Mayfair dining room, enjoy Michelinstarred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine, including lobster masala. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant is Michelinstarred, and popular with celebrities. As well as an opulent interior, its dishes are inspired by royal cuisine – try the six-hour cooked lamb shank. ££-£££.

Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat and fish at this relaxed restaurant and bar, with 28-day-aged beef and fried hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com.

43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish This timeless brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini and Sunday roasts. ££-£££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 020-7487 3030.

C5. Station: Baker Street.

THE ENGLISH GRILL English Tradition, Dining and Design at its Finest

SushiSamba

The English Gri

Book early for Christmas & New Year Eve Dining Packages

Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian fusion cuisine at this rooftop terrace with 360-degree views across the capital. Try the ‘anticuchos’ skewers cooked over a traditional robata grill. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com.

38th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 0203640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

ITALIAN Cicchetti All-day dining with regional specialities to share at this sophisticated restaurant. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mayfair Pizza Co Bright, airy restaurant where you can watch the chefs in the open-plan kitchen with a rustic pizza oven. ££. Daily L & D. www.mayfairpizzaco.com.

4 Lancashire Court, off New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7629 2889. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Rubens at The Palace

FANC

39 Buckingham Palace Road, London, SW1W 0PS CRAB_DAVID.pdf 1 (0)20 13/11/2017 12:36 | rubenshotel.com Telephone: +44 7834 6600

Rossopomodoro Enjoy Neapolitan food in an informal setting. ££. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX (and branches).

T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Verdi – Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea in the famous music venue – check for Free Friday Music ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create delicious griddle-cooked dishes at your table for a theatrical experience. Try the hibachi prawn. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana. co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches).

T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Engawa This refined Japanese restaurant has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts for you to choose from. Other popular dishes include sashimi, sushi and sukiyaki (hot pot), all prepared in an open kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 0207287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Nobu Delicious sashimi, sushi and tempura from the acclaimed Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa. ££££.

Daily L & D. www.noburestaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB (and branches). T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. www.wheretraveler.com 69

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DINING

Time for tea Enjoy a quintessentially English afternoon tea with a Christmas twist!

THE RITZ The luxury Piccadilly hotel certainly knows how to put on festive style. Its classic Palm Court pulls out all the stops for its Christmasthemed afternoon tea, transforming into an Edwardian winter wonderland. Red and gold trimmings plus a lavishly decorated Christmas tree make it a magical venue – and the appearance of Father Christmas on the big day itself, laden with gifts, makes children’s dreams come true. Expect a feast of traditional sandwiches, cakes and pastries, as well as warm mince pies.

150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2345. www.theritzlondon.com

ROYAL LANCASTER LONDON Reopening recently after a massive £80m refurbishment, this hotel on the edge of Hyde Park celebrates its 50th year – so there’s plenty to celebrate in addition to the festive season. Travel back to the 19th century for its festive afternoon tea, with specially-created pastries including ‘It’s Christmas’ – a Jivara and mandarin sphere with cinnamon cream – and ‘Gold, Frankincense and Myrrh’ – a caramelised puff pastry with salted caramel and vanilla.

Lancaster Terrace, W2 2TY. T: 020-7551 6011. www.royallancaster.com

Onodera

Mango Tree

This sleek, subterranean Mayfair restaurant has top-notch sushi and sashimi, plus dishes such as seared duck breast. £££. Daily L & D. www.onoderagroup.com/uk. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E6. Station: Green Park.

This elegant fine dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace offers authentic Thai dishes, such as tom ka and grilled Wagyu beef in spicy sauce (p. 62). ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org. uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Elysee Since 1936, this family restaurant has been serving great Greek dishes. There is a shisha lounge and late licence. £££. Mon-Sat D. www.elyseerestaurant.com.

13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Momo Decadent candlelit restaurant with Moroccan décor, serving mezze, couscous and tagine dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com.

25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Nopi

Rosa’s Thai Café At this informal venue in Carnaby, enjoy spicy dishes from papaya salad to drunken noodles.

Daily L & D. ££. www.rosasthaicafe.com.

23a Ganton St, W1F 9BW (and branches).

T: 020-7287 9617. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Thai Pot This popular spot offers a huge range of goodvalue, authentic Thai dishes, including stir-fried beef and massaman curry. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SPANISH El Pirata

Innovative Middle Eastern-inspired food Choose from a large range of authentic from Yotam Ottolenghi, with seasonal hot and cold tapas in this Mayfair dishes to share in an informal space. bar-restaurant, including cured ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. meats and fresh seafood. There are www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 SushiSamba will open its good set menus. ££-£££. Mon-Fri Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 second London L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk.

9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. restaurant in 2018 on 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 Covent Garden’s Yasmeen 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Opera Terrace Authentic Lebanese food with mezze, Iberica Victoria charcoal-grilled meat and veggie dishes.

Traditional Spanish dishes such as paella ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. and tortilla are given a modern twist. ££-£££. Daily 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921.

L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches).

Yosma T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Turkish cuisine in a bright and informal restaurant, with imaginative mezze, plus fish Moro and meat dishes from a Josper grill. £££. Daily North Africa meets Spain in this Moorish L & D. www.yosma.london. 50 Baker St, W1U 7BT. restaurant; try the wood-roasted chicken with T: 020-3019 6282. D6. Station: Baker Street. sage labneh. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro. co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 0207833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

RIVERSIDE

Enjoy a cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. Booking essential. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. www.bateaux london.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

The London Showboat Drift down the River Thames while enjoying dinner.

Booking essential. ££££. Departs daily Westminster Pier 7.45pm. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

RS Hispaniola SKETCH LONDON The über-arty Sketch not only has its restaurant’s walls festooned with specially commissioned works by artist David Shrigley, but it welcomes the festive season with a huge installation taking over its fairytalestyled Woodland Forest space (above).

With its Christmas theme, it’s time to get ready for a magical wonderland in which to devour delicate sandwiches and moreish cakes.

9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. www.sketch.london

Delightful moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British dishes. Opt for the deck menu for a light bite. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk.

Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Pan-Asian cuisine in the department store Debenhams; see the chefs at work in an openplan dining space. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chi kitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

VEGETARIAN The Gate This latest branch of the well-known veggie restaurant, with Indian and Middle Eastern influences, has well-presented dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. It might be vegetarian, but the quality, taste and large portions will leave carnivores convinced! ££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches). T: 020-7724 6656.

D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Tibits Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. Choose from salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits. co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Tasty cuisine from India. Enjoy dishes such as Mysore dosas, thalis and cashew pakoras. ££-£££.

Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk.

77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches).

T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

SKETCH © SIMON BROWN PHOTOGRAPHY

Bateaux London

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W H E R E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING Chi Kitchen Chi Kitchen is a contemporary pan-Asian restaurant offering tasty, colourful and exotic dishes that are both MSG-free and halal.

The open-plan restaurant lets guests witness the chefs at work, as they freshly prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. With such a wide selection of colourful, tasty and exotic dishes to choose from, Chi Kitchen promises to take diners on a truly unique culinary journey throughout South-East Asia.

Mon-Sat: 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm) Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm)

Mango Tree

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus

Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Having appeared on BBC1’s MasterChef, and mentioned in J K Rowling’s novel The Silkworm as a Thai institution in Belgravia, Mango Tree offers innovative yet classic cuisine of the highest calibre.

Using the finest ingredients sourced from the best suppliers, both locally and abroad, the restaurant serves genuine Thai dishes from each of the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild dishes influenced by the Chinese cooking style from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south.

46 Grosvernor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria/Hyde Park Corner.

Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

Memories of India At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions.

Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm.

18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com.

Station: Gloucester Road.

El Pirata For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ).

Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE This image: Holborn Dining Room’s Gin Bar Below: a cocktail at The Distillery

This image: Gong Below: St Pancras Champagne Bar

A toast to the city You don’t have to wait until midnight on New Year’s Eve to clink your glass of bubbly.

There are some people who may think it’s a part of everyday life. ‘Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right,’ Mark Twain believed – but most of us feel that the pop of a cork is appropriate for that special occasion.

And, of course, it doesn’t even have to be Champagne; recent years have seen the sales of Prosecco outstrip those of its more upmarket French cousin.

So, where do you go to for your glass of bubbly, whether on 31 December or any night (or day) of the month? And what’s your preference – the best bottle of vintage Champagne or a less expensive glass of Cava? We pick out some highlights.

Boasting the title of Europe’s longest Champagne bar, St Pancras Champagne Bar (p. 74) is a short hop away from the Eurostar platform – but a glass of bubbly is fine whether or not you’re heading to or from Paris. The bar measures a touch under 100m, with deep red leather banquettes

letting visitors enjoy views of the station’s imposing Art Deco wrought iron and glass ceiling – and down on to the Eurostar trains below. It’s easy to stay cosy even in December: make use of the individual blankets and fan heaters. Want your glass topped up? There’s a ‘press for Champagne’ button so you don’t even have to get up to walk to the bar.

From the longest, to the highest – at The View from The Shard (p. 32), you can enjoy the added extra of Champagne for two with

the price of your ticket, so you can take in the panoramic views across London and beyond while you sip. It’s the highest point in Western Europe in which to do so.

If you still want striking views from The Shard (albeit from not quite as high up), head to the Champagne bar at Gong in the Shangri-La hotel (p. 74). This plush bar – which is best known for its dramatic Asian-influenced cocktails, as well as rare vintage Champagnes – has the advantage of views over the Thames.

From the dizzy heights of The Shard, head down to a subterranean space that’s a throwback to a colourful Spanish bodega.

In the basement of Camino Blackfriars, a Spanish tapas venue, this cave-like bar, with exposed-brick walls, rustic wooden tables and low lighting, specialises in one of Spain’s most popular exports: Cava. Here you can sample more than 20 varieties by the glass or the bottle (starting at around £5 per glass) and accompany your tipple with wafer-thin slices of jamón Ibérico, Manchego cheese with quince jelly or manzanilla olives (33 Blackfriars Lane, EC4V 6EP).

GONG COURTESY OF GONG; ST PANCRAS CHAMPAGNE BAR COURTESY OF SEARCYS

It’s the season to party, so celebrate in style at one of London’s highest, longest or lowest bars, says Emma Levine

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81). Check for Christmas times

TRADITIONAL PUBS

Top Pick

The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London.

22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670.

D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House Creative, bohemian types love this quirky pub in the heart of Soho. www.frenchhousesoho.com.

49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Glasshouse Stores

That magic touch He’s wowed the critics with five-star reviews, with sleight-of-hand tricks leaving droppedjawed audiences asking ‘just how did he do that?’ Experience The Magic Hour in the hands of Tony Middleton, aka Sonic, who recreates the Golden Age of Magic from the early 1900s, when wealthy Victorians would host close-up magic shows in their homes. Watch Middleton give an intimate performance at the Sheraton Grand London Park Lane hotel, making objects ‘disappear’ in front of your eyes and letting the spirits write messages from ‘the other side’. Shows take place every Friday (8pm), to an audience of just 50 people.

Piccadilly, W1J 7BX. T: 020-7499 6321. www.sheratonparklane.com. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park oldest in London. People flock here at weekends for its Sunday roast and pies, so it’s advisable to pre-book. www.thespaniardshampstead.co.uk.

Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406.

Off map. Station: Hampstead.

This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with wood panelled walls and etched glass.

Plenty of nooks and crannies to hide away in this busy district. The beers and food are good. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7.

John Keats wrote Station: Piccadilly Circus. his poem Ode to

The Guinea

a Nightingale in The Spaniards Inn in Hampstead

Site of an inn since 1423, this was where wealthy Mayfair’s stable hands and servants used to drink. Friendly venue, with great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk.

30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728.

E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Street.

THE MAGIC HOUR © CHISWELL STUDIOS

The Magpie & Stump This pub, opposite the Old Bailey, dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair pub-restaurant has a variety of ales in the unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 0207-493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including highwayman Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens, at this historic pub, which is one of the

Waxy O’Connor’s Long-standing, huge Irish bar, comprising four bars over six levels.

It shows Ireland’s major sporting events on big screens. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666, and has vaults which are even older than that. Enjoy a pint of English ale and dine from a range of simple pub food. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with both cocktail and wine bars. Expect wines from unusual destinations, including Uruguay, with all bottles just £20. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Back Room Next to Hard Rock, the bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from the Apple Studios signed by The Beatles themselves.

Enjoy cocktails, pizzas, burgers and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.

BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ simply pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails for you. Booking is recommended. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424. Off map.

Station: Mornington Crescent.

City Social The bar adjacent to Jason Atherton’s restaurant has an Art Deco interior, a Prohibitioninspired cocktail list and amazing views. www.city sociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Experimental Cocktail Club This bar in an old Chinatown townhouse is tucked away but worth the search for its stylish cocktails. Email booking is recommended. www.experimentalcocktailclublondon.com.

13a Gerrard St, W1D 5PS. T: 020-7434 3559.

E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub underneath. www.freedombarsoho.com.

60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071.

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NIGHTLIFE Gong

Mews Cocktail Bar

Old Bengal Bar

Located in The Shard, Gong is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks (p. 72). www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for exquisite wines, fresh fruit cocktails and light dishes. www.mewsofmayfair.com.

10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388.

E6. Station: Bond Street.

This place is converted from a former warehouse located in a quiet back street, with original brick walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16A New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Gordon’s Wine Bar

The Nightjar

Opium Cocktail Bar

London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in a candlelit stone-arched basement. It also serves delicious cheeseboards. Go early to secure a table, or you might have to sit at the alleyway outside. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

This Prohibition-era bar in a dimly-lit basement in Shoreditch has live jazz most nights. Enjoy elaborate cocktails which come with gold-flecked popcorn or floating chocolates – perhaps served in an egg or through a waffle. www.barnightjar.com.

129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10.

Station: Old Street.

Keep your eyes peeled for this multi-storey bar in Chinatown, as it has a discreet front door.

Inside is a warren of dimly-lit rooms styled like a Shanghai bar from the 1920s, with red tassled lampshades, Buddha heads and porcelain teapots – making it ideal for a romantic night out. Sip a lychee martini or a cocktail with dry ice, and order dim sum if you feel peckish. www.opium chinatown.com. Reservatons recommended.

15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Oriole Number 17 out of the World’s 50 Best Bars in 2017, this spacious cocktail bar from the team behind Nightjar can be found beneath Smithfield Market. It has live jazz and blues most nights, all in beautiful surroundings inspired by the 1930s.

Expect your drink to come in anything except a glass. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099.

D9. Station: Farringdon.

Primo Bar Enjoy cocktails in this laid-back bar, which stages free live music every night. www.primobar.co.uk.

Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Reverend JW Simpson This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend, proved by the blue plaque outside.

Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

Scarfes Bar This elegant bar is named after cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of iconic British figures that are painted on the walls. Enjoy cocktails inspired by famous characters Scarfe has drawn, with Indian-style bar snacks. www.scarfesbar.com.

Rosewood Hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar, in the upstairs forecourt of the train station, has a big selection of bubbly (p. 72). www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk.

St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Six Storeys As the name suggests, this Soho Square townhouse is split over six levels. Each floor is elaborately decorated in a bohemian style, with plush chairs, vintage lampshades and patterned wallpaper.

Creative cocktails are its speciality. www.six storeys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 0203504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Trader Vic’s This tiki-style basement bar and restaurant is more than 50 years old. Try a Mai Tai cocktail, surrounded by Polynesian wooden masks and bamboo. There’s live music on Fri and Sat nights. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

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NIGHTLIFE The Comedy Store

Ronnie Scott’s

Sample a wide range of wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, near the Tower of London, paired with sharing boards of cured meats. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

One of the UK’s best stand-up and improvised comedy spots. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton and Neil Mullarkey. www. thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Since 1959, this famous jazz bar has hosted Sarah Vaughan, Prince and Ella Fitzgerald. It has nightly acts, while its weekly Sunday Jazz lunch is suitable for families. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Zetter Townhouse

British-themed cabaret. ‘Best of British Pop’ fuses acrobatics and dance with hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available. Stick around after the show as a DJ takes over until 3am. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002.

D8. Station: Holborn.

Trader’s Wine Bar

Tony Conigliaro is known for his groundbreaking cocktails in this intimate cocktail lounge, which is decorated like an eccentric aunt’s living room – complete with leather armchairs, velvet cushions and a cosy fireplace. The bar also hosts occasional cocktail classes. www.thezettertownhouse.com.

49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545.

Off map. Station: Farringdon.

London Cabaret Club

Stringfellows Up to 80 ‘Angels’ dance at tables at Peter Stringfellow’s gentlemen’s club. Don’t miss the velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8.

Station: Leicester Square.

CASINOS The Casino at the Empire TherT here is a dedicated poker room and the latest

table and electronic games at this spectacular venue, housing a contemporary Asian restaurant and several bars. www.thecasinolsq.com.

5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Hippodrome Casino TT his landmark venue has gaming on three floors,

including roulette, blackjack, baccarat, three-card poker and 100 electronic machines. You can make a night of it by combining the games with dinner at the Heliot Steak House. The venue also hosts live music, such as The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm) and regular theatre shows such as burlesque, magic and cover acts for past and present stars. www.hippodromecasino.com.

Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy a poker lounge and sports bar, as well as informal dining and an elegant restaurant. www.thesports mancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 0203051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club Popular with an older crowd, this relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant serves great food to blues, r’n’b and soul played by Britishbased independent artists on stage. www.606 club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus a DJ at weekends.

There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye. It also serves American-style food such as buffalo wings, gumbo and cornbread in a relaxed environment. www.theblueskitchen.com.

111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches).

T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar with lots of live entertainment, this new Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. https://bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602. D8.

Station: Holborn.

DINE DA N C E DA R E

The London Cabaret Club The London Cabaret is set in the exquisite surroundings of The Bloomsbury Ballroom and operates two amazing shows weekly.

On Fridays swing through the decades with The Best of British Pop, enjoy beloved hits, impressive staging, mesmerising dancers and costumes.

Journey from the freedom days of the 60’s and 70’s to London’s punk movement in the 80’s, 90’s Britpop as well as today’s leading anthems. Then enjoy a DJ and dance floor until 3am!

For a more suave Saturday evening London Cabaret Club’s 007-themed special, London Never Dies. Be transported to the glamorous Bond world of romance and espionage with gourmet dining and a stunning cabaret show, including groundbreaking 4D special effects.

For group bookings contact:

020 7242 0002

bookings@thelondoncabaretclub.com use code WHERE at www.thelondoncabaretclub.com to get 25% off all ticket tiers

The London Cabaret Club Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, London WC1B 4DA

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WELLBEING | THE GUIDE This image: Chuan Spa at The Langham Below: Akasha Spa at Hotel Café Royal

The luxury life Christmas is a time to indulge in the most luxurious food and drink, so why not let your skin experience a bit of luxury, too?

Located in Brown’s Hotel, Rocco Forte Spa may be small but it still oozes glamour – it has only three treatment rooms and a 24-hour gym.

If you want to sparkle, choose the Carita Diamond Face and Body Ritual (110 min; £190), which includes a foot cleanse, back massage and facial. The facial uses crushed diamonds to transform your skin, so that it looks flawless, firmer and more luminous.

Chuan Spa, which recently underwent a major refurbishment, specialises in Chinese treatments. The name itself – ‘chuan’ – means a serene course of water, and in Chinese culture flowing water symbolises the practice of keeping the mind, body and soul in check.

If you thought caviar was just for your plate, think again. Located in The Langham, the Caviar Ultimate facial (1hr; from £145) uses caviar protein and marine actives to firm, tone, refine and hydrate skin. One of the major benefits of caviar is that it helps reduce hyperpigmentation and age spots.

Nicole Kidman and Cameron Diaz have both praised gold facials. At The Dorchester Spa, located in The Dorchester hotel, some of the most lavish treatments are available. The spa’s interior design is 1930s Art Deco – think chandeliers with pearls. The venue cuts no corners with its double suites, steam rooms, state-of-the-art gym and hair salon.

The menu includes the newly launched Carol Joy London Pure Gold and Collagen Facial (60 min; £220). The treatment begins with a pure collagen mask, and is followed

by a 24-carat gold leaf that is applied and then massaged into the skin with circular movements. Aimed at tackling dull skin and anti-ageing, it leaves you with brighter skin.

Meanwhile, Akasha Spa at Hotel Café Royal goes one step further with its 23 Carat Gold Signature Hammam (75 min; £140). It begins with a full body cleanse using black olive soap with 23-carat gold minerals. After this, you can enjoy a 23-carat gold back massage or a gold facial. With all of these luxury treatments, you’ll be feeling glamorous in no time.

CHUAN SPA COURTESY OF THE LANGHAM; AKASHA SPA © MICHAEL FRANKE

Gold, diamonds and caviar? Kohinoor Sahota rounds up the luxury London spas – from Chuan Spa in The Langham to the Dorchester Spa – that use the most opulent ingredients

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81. Please check for Christmas closures

Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, and use botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk.

The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon.

There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map.

Station: Imperial Wharf.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. There is a private suite in The Penthouse, so you can share the experience with your guest while sipping a glass of Champagne.

The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa This spa has an Asian touch: the décor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandara spa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 17m pool and gym. Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage.

If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

by qualified female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a gold age-defying facial, carat diamond face and body rituals. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa.

Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767.

Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata

07879 697478

This spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places in London that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include weaves, extensions, wig creation and cutting.

There’s a hammam, too. www.urbanretreat.co.uk.

Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ushvani

Late appointments available

Plush spa with a philosophy that is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com.

1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888.

G5. Station: Sloane Square.

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com.

31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

©THINKSTOCK

SPAS

AVENA MASSAGE

Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work.

The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie An award-winning hair salon, which specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

where

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

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TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards

AT YOUR SERVICE Concierges in the capital use Where London for information – these concierges share their top tips

Paul Walsh

John Kortenray

Frank Laino

Head Concierge at Amba Hotel Marble Arch

Head Concierge at Hilton London Bankside

Executive Concierge at The Stafford London

What are your most popular requests?

Outdoor ice skating, Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland and Bicester Village.

What should visitors do if they have just one day?

Wander around Spitalfields Market, then look at urban art such as Banksy’s graffiti in Shoreditch.

What are your most popular requests?

Our guests are always keen to visit Christmas markets, and we’re lucky enough to be within walking distance of the Southbank Centre Wintertime Festival, which offers shows, mulled wine and roasted chestnuts.

What should couples do?

Have cocktails at The Luggage Room in Mayfair and late-night nibbles at Fancy Crab.

Any hidden gems?

Seek out old shops such as James Smith & Sons, which sells traditional umbrellas.

What do you recommend outside central London?

Have breakfast at The Ivy Café Richmond, followed by a walk along the River Thames to Richmond Park.

From left to right: Street art; Southbank Centre Wintertime Festival; eggs Benedict at The Wolseley

What’s the strangest request you’ve had?

A client once asked me to propose to their niece, for residency purposes.

My wife was not amused!

Needless to say, I declined.

What makes your hotel special?

Our 380-year-old wine cellar, which houses 10,000 bottles of fine wine, is a unique party venue. It was used

by American and Canadian officers during World War II as a bomb shelter.

An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.

It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London.

You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.

Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.

An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses.

For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

We’re also a stone’s throw away from the Tate Modern, which has chalets outside it selling hand-crafted gifts, festive food and warming cups of glühwein.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Any hidden gems?

Few visitors have heard of the quirky Flat Iron Square in Bankside, which is tucked away under railway arches.

The space offers a cultural journey through food, music, entertainment and shops selling unusual trinkets and vintage clothes.

What should visitors do if they have just a day here?

Eat breakfast at The Wolseley, then visit the Royal Academy of Arts across the road.

Shop on Bond Street, have afternoon tea at Sketch, then see a show.

What do you recommend outside central London?

Kew Gardens is relaxing and stunning all year round.

It’s an ideal destination for families, couples or groups.

What do you recommend outside central London?

Cambridge isn’t far away.

Go punting on the River Cam, visit King’s College Chapel and see a university college.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands.

Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, Charing Cross and southeast England.

London Bridge Waterloo Victoria serve southern England. and For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950.

St Pancras International.

Eurostar uses Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 01233-617 575).

PAUL WALSH COURTESY OF AMBA HOTEL MARBLE ARCH; JOHN KORTENRAY COURTESY OF HILTON LONDON BANKSIDE; FRANK LAINO COURTESY OF THE STAFFORD LONDON; STREET ART © ISTOCK; WINTERTIME FESTIVAL © PWR EVENTS; EGGS BENEDICT COURTESY OF THE WOLSELEY

ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE

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ESSENTIALS

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Hire: T: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk.

Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com.

Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.

UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL

Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14).

UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.

River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. www.thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers. Discounts on single journeys on all MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. The River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. From £2 for 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

24-hour Tube lines

Coaches

Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon.

London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and The Netherlands.

SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ coaches Victoria. Map D4.

DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland.

Mail Boxes are also trained certified packers.

T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

• Jubilee Line: Across the entire line.

• Victoria Line: Across the entire line.

• Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town to High Barnet/Edgware. Night Tube will not stop at Charing Cross.

• Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5.

• Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 79

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WHERE NOW | DAN GILLESPIE SELLS

My Perfect Day

DAN GILLESPIE SELLS SINGER AND SONGWRITER Born in London, Dan is the frontman of the pop group The Feeling. The winner of an Ivor Novello Award, he has written the songs for the new musical, Everybody’s Talking About Jamie, which is at the Apollo Theatre

The Palace Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue. When I was young, I used to meet my friends outside Les Misérables, back in the days when it was staged there. There was something about the beauty of that theatre, and its extraordinary position. I’ve loved Soho, from my teens as a young gay man.

What museums and galleries do you like?

I love walking around the National Portrait Gallery and seeing all the faces. I like all of the pompous, old-fashioned members of the aristocracy, who insisted on having their portraits done.

Where do you like to shop?

I don’t often go shopping, but if I do it’ll be around Christmas and I’ll be late with buying gifts. I like Spitalfields and places that feel less manic than the West End. I don’t mind Westfield – if you go when it’s not too busy, you can make a day of it: watch a movie, have ice cream and pretend you’re in a 1980s teen movie. I like an ironic mall day.

What has been your favourite purchase?

I have a bell that I bought from Arthur Beale on Shaftesbury Avenue close to Neal Street. It’s a shop that sells nautical stuff. I bought it for my pub, though it’s not a pub any more – I turned it into a studio. But every so often I like to pretend that it still is a pub when I ring the bell.

Is there a place in London that holds a special memory for you?

Where is your favourite place to eat?

memories of flying kites on Parliament Hill.

Dean Street Townhouse in Soho is nice for lunch, and Luca in Clerkenwell is great for dinner. Okko Restaurant on Broadway Market is my local. It’s a Japanese place that specialises in great comfort food and it does takeaway, too.

How do you prefer to travel?

What would be your ideal entertainment?

Bicycle, bus and cabs, a bit of everything! The

I see a lot more theatre than I used to, because I’m working in that world. I love Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre; I think it’s extraordinary. I went to see Jesus Christ Superstar, which was good.

As a child I lived near Wood Green – I was raised in Bounds Green – and as a family we used to walk from Highgate to Parliament Hill. I have

bicycle is my favourite. It’s just so quick, and it keeps me fit. I cycle to Broadway Market all the time, or Shoreditch for the gym. I end up cycling when I’m late for something!

What about cafés?

My local café, The Wilton Way Café, is nice. I go there for coffee and breakfast. It’s close to my place in Hackney and you feel like there’s a sense of community there.

I think it’s important to find that in London: a place with regulars, and people that you’re going to bump into again and again.

Where is your favourite place to drink?

The Nelson’s Head near Columbia Road. It just reopened recently as a regular pub. It used to be my favourite place for New Year’s Eve because they only charged £5 for a ticket, yet they never

What hotels do you like?

I stayed in The Ned, which is gorgeous and special. The view from the roof to St Paul’s Cathedral is extraordinary.

Tell us about Everybody’s Talking About Jamie.

The response we had from the audience in Sheffield was so powerful. If it wasn’t for that response, it never would have made it to London.

What makes London stand out?

London has amazing architecture and diversity.

It’s probably the most exciting city I know.

To 21 Apr. Apollo Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. www.apollotheatrelondon.co.uk

let it get too packed out. They have great music

What is your favourite green space?

on the jukebox – I love a pub with a jukebox;

London Fields is local to me. It seems to attract excitement. I walk my dogs there – a lot of the pubs around the area are very dog-friendly, too.

you don’t get those very often. While it has quite a large gay following, it’s not a gay pub. It’s a nice Christmas pub, too – they always decorate it well.

Clockwise from top left: Spitalfields market; Dan Gillespie Sells; The Ned; National Portrait Gallery; Everybody’s Talking About Jamie; Jesus Christ Superstar

SPITALFIELDS AND NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY © ISTOCK; DAN GILLESPIE SELLS © THE OTHER RICHARD; THE NED © SIMON BROWN; EVERYBODY’S TALKING ABOUT JAMIE COURTESY OF APOLLO THEATRE; JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR © JOHAN PERSSON

What are your favourite London buildings?

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K PA R EY BL EM W

THE WEMBLEY

STADIUM

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